Rough Guide to Japan (2020)
Author: Rough Guides
Date: 2020-03-09 04:57:54+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: The Rough Guide to Japan Make the most of your time on Earth with the ultimate travel guides. World-renowned 'tell it like it is' travel guide. Get Olympic ready with this practical 'tell it like it is' guidebook to Japan. Featuring extensive listings and maps, this is packed with information to help travellers make the most of their Tokyo 2020 Olympic adventure. Discover Japan with this comprehensive and entertaining travel guide, packed with practical information and honest recommendations by our independent experts. Whether you plan to make the tough but rewarding hike up Mount Fuji, wander
Publisher: Apa Publications
Rights: world

Christian Kober/John Warburton-Lee Photography

Michele Falzone/AWL Images

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Where to go

When to go

Author picks
things not to miss

Tailor-made trips

BASICS

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Travel essentials

THE GUIDE

1 Tokyo

2 Around Tokyo

3 Northern Honshū

4 Hokkaidō

5 Central Honshū

6 Kyoto and Nara

7 Kansai

8 Western Honshū

9 Shikoku

10 Kyūshū

11 Okinawa

CONTEXTS

History

Religion

Japanese arts

Music

The environment

Film

Books

Japanese

Glossary

SMALL PRINT AND INDEX

KUMANO NACHI TAISHA

Dreamstime

Introduction to

Japan

You’d be hard pressed to find a country as intrinsically unique as Japan. From the snow-capped mountains of Hokkaidō to the subtropical beaches of Okinawa, via the world’s biggest city and more volcanoes than you can count, there’s simply something special about the place. Whether it’s sushi or sumo, anime or karate, ramen or robots, chances are that you already know plenty about this East Asian island nation, but even a short visit will make it abundantly clear that this is mere surface matter in a land boasting an unparalleled depth of tradition.

The sheer diversity and intensity of experiences on offer to visitors in the cities or the countryside can be overwhelming. Whether browsing trendy fashion boutiques, electronics stores buzzing with the latest gadgets or a centuries-old shop, you are sure to find something strikingly unusual or innovative. Take a turn down a side street and it won’t be long before you stumble upon an exquisite Buddhist temple or Shintō shrine, or perhaps a boisterous local matsuri parade. Head to the countryside, and you might glimpse a high-speed train reflected in the waters of emerald-green rice paddies.

Seeing the ancient and contemporary waltzing around hand in hand may appear incongruous, but it’s important to remember the reasons behind it – few other countries have ever changed so fast in so short a period of time. Industrialized at lightning speed in the late nineteenth century, Japan shed its feudal trappings to become the most powerful and outwardly aggressive country in Asia in a matter of decades. After defeat in World War II, the nation transformed itself from atom-bomb victim to economic giant, the envy of the world. Having weathered a decade-long recession from the mid-1990s, Japan is now relishing its “soft power” status as the world’s pre-eminent purveyor of pop culture, with the visual media of manga and anime leading the way.

The “bubble years” of 1980s Japan scared many international visitors away in the belief that the country was hideously expensive. The truth is that it’s no more costly to travel around than Western Europe or the US, and in many ways a fair bit cheaper. Hotel rooms can be on the small side but are often reasonably priced, and food is so cheap that many travellers find themselves eating out three times a day. Public transport in Japan’s cities is surprisingly good value, while recent price-cutting means that airline tickets now rival the famed bargain rail passes as a means to get to far-flung corners of the country.

In the cities, you’ll first be struck by the massive number of people constantly on the move. These dense, hyperactive metropolises are the places to catch the latest trend, the hippest fashions and must-have gadgets before they hit the rest of the world. Yet it’s not all about modernity: Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Kanazawa, for example, also provide the best opportunities to view traditional performance arts, such as kabuki and nō plays, as well as a wealth of Japanese visual arts in major museums. Outside the cities, there’s a vast range of travel options, from the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Shiretoko National Park in Hokkaidō to the balmy subtropical islands of Okinawa.

Japan reveals numerous contradictions. The Japanese are experts at focusing on detail (the exquisite wrapping of gifts and the mouthwatering presentation of food are just two examples) but often miss the broader picture. Rampant development and sometimes appalling pollution are difficult to square with a country also renowned for cleanliness and the appreciation of nature. Part of the problem is that natural cataclysms, such as earthquakes and typhoons, regularly hit Japan, so few people expect things to last for long anyway. And there’s no denying the pernicious impact of tourism, with ranks of gift shops, ugly hotels, ear-splitting announcements and crowds often ruining potentially idyllic spots.

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SUKUJI BEACH, ISHIGAKI-JIMA

FACT FILE

- Japan is made up of around 6800 islands – in descending order of size, the main five are Honshū, the boomerang-shaped mainland; Hokkaidō, way up north; Kyūshū, down south; Shikoku, sitting under Honshū; and Okinawa, part of an archipelago way out southwest, towards the tropics.

- Despite many Japanese telling you what a small country they live in, Japan is in fact twice the size of the UK. This sense of smallness originates in the fact that around 75 percent of the country is covered by densely forested mountains; some 126.3 million people are thus squished into the remaining quarter of Japan’s land surface, making the southern coastal plain of Honshū from Tokyo down to Osaka one of the most densely populated areas in the world.

- The population is 98.5 percent Japanese, making this one of the world’s most ethnically homogeneous societies. The most significant non-Japanese groups living in the country are Chinese and Koreans, together representing more than half of the total. Indigenous people officially account for no more than 100,000 people, though more than double that number are said to have native blood. Japan is also a rapidly ageing society, with a very low birth rate and long life expectancy.

- Japan’s economy is the third largest in the world, after those of the US and China, though it has been moribund since the early 1990s – the prices of certain goods have barely changed in all that time.

- Emperor Naruhito is the head of state, having assumed the throne in 2019, after the abdication of his father, Akihito.

- Japan is famed for its many post-war inventions, several of which have had major impacts on global society. These include: instant noodles (1958); high-speed rail travel (1964); quartz wristwatches (1967); the pocket calculator (1970); the Walkman (1979); and the world’s first android (2003).

And yet, time and again, Japan redeems itself with unexpectedly beautiful landscapes, charmingly courteous people and its tangible sense of history and cherished traditions – few will be able to resist the chance to get to grips with this endlessly fascinating culture.

Where to go

Two weeks is the minimum needed to skim the surface of what Japan can offer. The capital, Tokyo, and the former imperial city and thriving cultural centre of Kyoto, will be top of most visitors’ itineraries, and justifiably so, but you could avoid the cities entirely and head to the mountains or smaller islands to discover an alternative side of the country, away from the most heavily beaten tourist tracks.

It would be easy enough to spend a fortnight just in Tokyo. The metropolis is home to some of the world’s most ambitious architecture, stylish shops and internationally celebrated restaurants and bars – as well as glimpses of traditional Japan at scores of temples, shrines and imperial gardens. Consider also taking in a couple of the city’s surrounding attractions, in particular the historic towns of Nikkō, home to the amazing Tōshō-gū shrine complex, and Kamakura, with its giant Buddha statue and tranquil woodland walks.

Northern Honshū sees surprisingly few overseas visitors, but its sleepy villages and relaxed cities deserve to be better known. The Golden Hall of Hiraizumi more than warrants the journey, and can be easily combined with the islet-sprinkled Matsushima Bay or rural Tōno. The region is also known for its vibrant summer festivals, notably those at Sendai, Aomori, Hirosaki and Akita, and for its sacred mountains, including Dewa-sanzan, home to a sect of ascetic mountain priests, and the eerie, remote wastelands of Osore-zan.

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TOKYO CITYSCAPE

JOURNEYS WITH FOOD

Eating is undoubtedly one of the highlights of travelling in Japan – a fair amount of domestic tourism is geared this way, with locals heading all over the country to sample subtle nuances of taste. Food not only changes by the season, but is also produced for certain activities – from train journeys to street festivals – and for maximum convenience available instantly or served quickly. Here are a few delicious recommendations to look out for as you journey around Japan:

Ekiben No major train journey in Japan is complete without an ekiben – a type of boxed lunch only sold at train stations. It’s intended to showcase local cuisine and is often presented in interestingly quirky containers.

Kare-pan A good example of how Japan adapts foreign cuisines, kare-pan or curry bread is deep-fried sweet dough filled with curry. A great spicy snack if you need a break from rice and noodles.

Mitarashi dango Usually sold outside Shintō shrines, mitarashi dango are small pieces of grilled mochi (rice cake) on skewers and slathered in a delicious sweet and salty sauce. Best enjoyed with a steaming cup of green tea.

Sōmen Japan is home to a variety of noodles, but sōmen are the most delicate. Long, thin and white, they are best eaten cold in summer with a light dipping sauce, and preferably on a breezy river deck, but are also available from convenience stores.

Oden Oden is a “hodgepodge” of vegetables, tofu, fishcake and boiled eggs stewed in a dashi broth and popular in winter. You can fish out the bits you want from the steaming trough at street stalls or convenience stores.

Sōki soba Okinawa’s take on noodles is simple but truly delicious and quite possibly life-extending: yellow strands of soba, served with broth and a couple of hunks of pork rib.

Taiyaki Literally “grilled sea bream” but actually a sweet fish-shaped waffle filled with an (red bean) but also sometimes sold with chocolate and custard cream.

Takoyaki This street-friendly food hails from Osaka but is found all over Japan. Small pieces of octopus (tako) are grilled (yaki) in balls of batter and served with a special brown sauce, mayonnaise and bonito flakes.

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Further north, across the Tsugaru Straits, Hokkaidō is Japan’s final frontier, with many national parks including the outstanding Daisetsu-zan, offering excellent hiking trails over mountain peaks and through soaring rock gorges. The lovely far northern islands of Rebun-tō and Rishiri-tō are ideal summer escapes. Hokkaidō’s most historic city is Hakodate, with its late nineteenth-century wooden houses and churches built by expat traders, while its modern capital, Sapporo, is home to the raging nightlife centre of Suskino and the original Sapporo Brewery. Winter is a fantastic time to visit, when you can catch Sapporo’s amazing Snow Festival and go skiing at some of Japan’s top resorts, such as Niseko.

Skiing, mountaineering and soaking in hot springs are part of the culture of Central Honshū, an area dominated by the magnificent Japan Alps. Nagano, home to the atmospheric pilgrimage temple, Zenkō-ji, and the old castle town of Matsumoto can be used as a starting point for exploring the region. Highlights include the tiny mountain resort of Kamikōchi and the immaculately preserved Edo-era villages of Tsumago and Magome, linked by a short hike along the remains of a 300-year-old stone-paved road. Takayama deservedly draws many visitors to its handsome streets lined with merchant houses and temples, built by generations of skilled carpenters. In the remote neighbouring valleys, you’ll find the rare thatched houses of Ogimachi, Suganuma and Ainokura, remnants of a fast-disappearing rural Japan.

On the Sea of Japan coast, the historic city of Kanazawa is home to Kenroku-en, one of Japan’s best gardens, and the stunning 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. Nagoya, on the heavily industrialized southern coast, is a more manageable city than Tokyo or Osaka, and has much to recommend it, including the fine Tokugawa Art Museum and many great places to eat. The efficient new airport nearby also makes the city a good alternative entry point. From Nagoya, it’s a short hop to the pretty castle towns of Inuyama and Gifu, the latter holding summer displays of the ancient skill of ukai, or cormorant fishing.

South of the Japan Alps, the Kansai plains are scattered with ancient temples, shrines and the remnants of imperial cities. Kyoto, custodian of Japan’s traditional culture, is home to its most refined cuisine, classy ryokan, glorious gardens, and magnificent temples and palaces. Nearby Nara is on a smaller scale but no less impressive when it comes to venerable monuments, notably the great bronze Buddha of Tōdai-ji and Hōryū-ji’s unrivalled collection of early Japanese statuary. The surrounding region contains a number of still-thriving religious foundations, such as the highly atmospheric temples of Hiei-zan and Kōya-san, the revered Shintō shrine Ise-jingū, and the beautiful countryside pilgrimage routes of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kumano region.

Not all of Kansai is so rarefied, though. The slightly unconventional metropolis of Osaka has an easy-going atmosphere and boisterous nightlife, alongside several worthwhile sights. Further west, the port of Kōbe offers a gentler cosmopolitan feel, while Himeji is home to Japan’s most fabulous castle, as well as some impressive modern gardens and buildings.

For obvious reasons, Hiroshima is the most visited location in western Honshū. On the way there, pause at Okayama to stroll around one of Japan’s top three gardens, Kōraku-en, and the appealingly preserved Edo-era town of Kurashiki. The beauty of the Inland Sea, dotted with thousands of islands, is best appreciated from the idyllic fishing village of Tomonoura, the port of Onomichi and the relaxed islands of Nao-shima, Ikuchi-jima and Miyajima.

Crossing to the San-in coast, the castle town of Hagi retains some handsome samurai houses and atmospheric temples, only surpassed by even more enchanting Tsuwano, further inland. One of Japan’s most venerable shrines, Izumo Taisha, lies roughly midway along the coast, near the city of Matsue, on a strip of land between two lagoons and home to the region’s only original fort.

Shikoku is the location for Japan’s most famous pilgrimage (a walking tour around 88 Buddhist temples), but also offers dramatic scenery in the Iya valley and along its rugged coastline. The island’s largest city, Matsuyama, has an imperious castle and the splendidly ornate Dōgo Onsen Honkan – one of Japan’s best hot springs. There’s also the lovely garden Ritsurin-kōen in Takamatsu and the ancient Shintō shrine at Kotohira.

The southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, Kyūshū is probably best known for Nagasaki, an attractive and cosmopolitan city that has overcome its terrible wartime history. Hikers and onsen enthusiasts should head up into the central highlands, where Aso-san’s smouldering peak dominates the world’s largest volcanic crater, or to the more southerly meadows of Ebino Kōgen. So much hot water gushes out of the ground in Beppu, on the east coast, that it’s known as Japan’s hot-spring capital. Fukuoka, on the other hand, takes pride in its innovative modern architecture and an exceptionally lively entertainment district.

Okinawa comprises more than a hundred islands stretching in a great arc to within sight of Taiwan. An independent kingdom until the early seventeenth century, traces of the island’s distinctive, separate culture still survive. The beautifully reconstructed former royal palace dominates the capital city, Naha, but the best of the region lies on its remoter islands. This is where you’ll find Japan’s most stunning white-sand beaches and its best diving, particularly around the subtropical islands of Ishigaki, Taketomi and Iriomote.

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When to go

Average temperature and weather patterns vary enormously across Japan. The main influences on Honshū’s climate are the mountains and surrounding warm seas, which bring plenty of rain and, in the colder months, snow. Winter weather differs greatly, however, between the western Sea of Japan and the Pacific coasts, the former suffering cold winds and heavy snow while the latter tends towards dry, clear winter days. Regular heavy snowfalls in the mountains provide ideal conditions for skiers.

QUINTESSENTIAL JAPAN

Japan has something of a reputation for being a bit off the wall when it comes to contemporary culture – the high-pressured work culture has produced an eclectic array of leisure activities. Here are a few examples of some uniquely Japanese things to seek out during your stay:

Bathhouses The ultimate relaxation for Japanese people is to soak in hot spring waters, but if you can’t make it to an onsen resort then it’s worth seeking out a neighbourhood sentō (bathhouse). Watch out for the denkiburo – a bath with mild electric shocks believed to reduce muscle pain.

Capsule hotels No, it’s not like sleeping in a coffin. But yes, the rooms at capsule hotels are pretty darn small, and there’s no more characteristic Japanese sleeping experience – including ryokan.

Game centres Bash the hell out of the world’s weirdest arcade machines in one of the game centres strewn liberally across the land – you’ll even find them in minor towns.

Gender-bending performances In traditional Kabuki theatre men play female roles, but in twenty-first-century Japan there’s also the Takarazuka Revue, an all-women musical theatre troupe where the otoko-yaku (male roles) are the main stars, and Visual Kei rock groups, where the male musicians perform in wigs, make-up, leather corsets and lace.

Karaoke Unleash your inner rock star at a “karaoke box” where you can sing to your heart’s content, in private and by the hour, as well as be served food and booze – great places in which to start, or finish, a night out.

Pachinko parlours Perhaps the world’s most monotonous form of gambling, these glorified pinball arcades are still worth having a gawp at, or even just a listen to – simply open the doors, and you’ll be amazed by the gigantic din that crashes out. Dare to step inside, and prepare to be visually assaulted by rows of LED panels, all being glared at by silent, serious-looking gamers.

Theme cafés Most big Japanese cities have a couple of interesting options for caffeine addicts: have your coffee served by costumed girls at a maid café, amid thousands of comic books at a manga kissaten or surrounded by purring felines at a cat café.

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Author picks

Our authors have ventured to every corner of Japan to find the very best the country has to offer. Here are some of their personal highlights:

Hokusai in Obuse Using the name “The Old Man Mad About Art”, the artist created wonderful paintings (not prints!) in this little town in his final years.

Speed into the future For a hands-on experience of the 500kph trains of tomorrow, head to the SCMaglev and Railway Park outside Nagoya.

Tea-picking The finest green tea in Japan has been cultivated on the low rolling hills of Wazuka-cho, near Uji, since the thirteenth century.

The Yaeyama Islands Finally on the budgetairline route maps, Ishigaki-jima is the hub of this tantalizingly tropical slice of Japan – stunning beaches, great diving and about as laidback as Japan gets.

Outdoor adventure Journey through Hokkaidō to reach remote Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō, volcanic islands crisscrossed with epic hiking and cycling trails..

Cross the roof of Japan The Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route combines buses, funiculars and cable-cars to whisk you over the Japan Alps, with spectacular mountain views.

Tokyo cityscapes Get elevated views of the world’s biggest city for free, including a few tower-topping restaurant floors.

Inland Sea views The views of the Seto Ōhashi bridge and the Inland Sea from Washu-zan are some of Japan’s most spectacular.

Sumo Watch the titanic, ritualized clashes of the nation’s sporting giants in the centuries-old martial art characterized by uniquely Japanese traditions.

The maples of Miyajima There’s no better place to embrace the magnificent colours of the Japanese autumn than this ancient pilgrimage island.

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the symbol.

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HOKUSAI PAINTING, OBUSE

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ISHIGAKI-JIMA

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30
things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Japan has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective and subjective taste of the country’s highlights: impressive museums, tranquil gardens, lively festivals, awe-inspiring temples and much more. All entries are colour coded to the corresponding chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide.

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1   KYOTO

The capital of Japan for a thousand years, endowed with an almost overwhelming legacy of temples, palaces and gardens, and also home to the country’s richest traditional culture and most refined cuisine.

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2   YAKUSHIMA

Commune with millennium-old cedar trees in Yakushima National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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3   KŌYA-SAN

Mingle with monks and pilgrims on one of Japan’s holiest mountains, home to over a hundred monasteries.

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4   CLIMB MOUNT FUJI

Vibrant international world music festival, hosted by the drumming group Kodō on the lovely island of Sado-ga-shima.

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5   CLIMB MOUNT FUJI

Make the tough but rewarding hike up Japan’s tallest peak, a long-dormant volcano of classic symmetrical beauty.

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6   YUKI MATSURI

Stare at mammoth snow and ice sculptures in Sapporo, Hokkaidō, every February.

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7  STAY AT A RYOKAN

Treat yourself to a night of luxury in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, where you enter a world of elegance and meticulous service.

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8   SAKE BREWERIES

Discover the amazing varieties of this ancient Japanese alcoholic drink at the venerable sake breweries in Obuse or Takayama.

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9   SHIBUYA AND SHINJUKU

These neon-drenched Tokyo districts are contemporary Japan in a nutshell, and particularly spellbinding come evening time.

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10   TAKETOMI-JIMA

Bathe in the warm waters surrounding this speck of an Okinawan island, a sleepy spot whose few buildings are topped with terracotta tiles.

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11   KAMIKŌCHI

This busy but pretty mountain village preserves a Shangri-la atmosphere and serves as the gateway to the Northern Alps.

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12   OGIMACHI

Discover the distinctive gasshō-zukuri houses, whose steep-sided thatched roofs are said to recall two hands joined in prayer.

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13   NIKKŌ

This pilgrim town is home to the fabulously over-the-top Tōshō-gū shrine, one of Japan’s most sumptuous buildings.

Tim Draper

14   HIROSHIMA

Pay your respects to the A-bomb’s victims in the city of Hiroshima, impressively reborn from the ashes of World War II.

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15   KABUKIZA

This is the best place to enjoy kabuki, the most dramatic of traditional Japanese performing arts.

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16   NAMETOKO GORGE

Regarded as a natural “power spot”, a mystical place where clear-blue waters cut through pristine forest and gush over mossy boulders.

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17   NARA

The ancient former capital is home to the Buddhist temple of Tōdai-ji.

Tim Draper

18   KENROKU-EN

Nature has been tamed to its most beautiful at Kanazawa’s star attraction, one of Japan’s top traditional gardens.

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19   FURANO IN SUMMER

A riot of colour, when endless fields of lavender and sunflowers make a picturesque backdrop for walks and bike rides.

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20   THE KISO VALLEY

Explore the gorgeous countryside between two lovingly preserved Edo-era “post towns”.

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21   SKIING

Hit the slopes at Hakuba or Niseko, or enjoy the great runs and charming atmosphere of Nozawa Onsen.

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22   KUMANO KODŌ

Wander the ancient pilgrimage route of the “Land of the Gods” and soak in the healing waters of isolated hot springs.

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23   NAOSHIMA

Experience the beauty of the Inland Sea at this tranquil island, with its amazing contemporary art museums, public sculptures and installations.

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24   HIMEJI-JŌ

Relive the days of the samurai at this, Japan’s most impressive feudal-era fortress.

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25   SUSHI

You’ve probably eaten sushi before but try some in Japan and you may never want to eat it anywhere else ever again.

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26   AWA ODORI

Dance through the streets at the country’s biggest Obon bash, held in Tokushima, Shikoku.

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27   TOKYO’S ART SCENE

Tokyo remains the most important art city in Asia – hit the Roppongi Art Triangle to see why.

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28   KAISEKI-RYŌRI

Indulge yourself with a meal of kaiseki-ryōri, Japan’s haute cuisine, comprising a selection of beautifully prepared morsels made from the finest seasonal ingredients.

Robert Harding

29   ONSEN

Take a dip at a top onsen resort town, such as Dōgo or Sukayu Onsen, or experience the exquisite warmth of a rotemburo (outdoor bath) as the snow falls.

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30   RAMEN

Your tastebuds can get acquainted with many breeds of noodle in Japan, but ramen is the undisputed number one, inspiring an almost religious following across the land.

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Tailor-made trips

Japan may not be terribly large, but there are enough historic, natural and contemporary sights to keep you busy for months on end. Most visitors hit Tokyo and Kyoto, the capitals past and present, but the further you get from the beaten track, the more rewarding the experience. These itineraries head all over Japan’s varied landscapes, and give at least an idea of what this fascinating country is all about. The trips below give a flavour of what the country has to offer and what we can plan and book for you at www.roughguides.com/trips.

THE FULL MONTY

Hitting most of Japan’s main sights, this itinerary loosely follows the old Tōkaidō route that linked Tokyo with Kyoto, then moves further west to within a short ferry ride of the Korean peninsula.

Tokyo Japan’s wonderful capital has something for everyone – the only question is what to do with your time there, which will never be quite enough.

Mount Fuji This emblematic volcanic cone, just west of Tokyo, is climbable through the summer, but visible from passing Shinkansen trains all year round.

Kyoto Contrary to the expectations of many visitors, Japan’s vaunted ancient ex-capital is actually a large, modern city, albeit one brimming with compelling historical gems.

Nara Just south of Kyoto, Nara is a far more rustic place – witness the deer merrily grazing around the temples and shrines.

Naoshima Take a detour from the mainland route to this small island, home to swathes of fantastic modern art.

Hiroshima The name of this city is etched quite firmly into the world’s conscience. Dark tourism it may be, but the gutted Hypocenter is a stark reminder of those tragic times.

Fukuoka Way out west, this is perhaps the friendliest city in the land – its characteristic yatai stalls make perfect places in which to bond with ramen-slurping locals over a few glasses of sake.

WORLD HERITAGE TOUR

Japan boasts thirteen cultural and four natural UNESCO World Heritage Sites; focusing your visit on the country’s ancient wonders alone could keep you well occupied for a good ten days or more.

Nikkō One of Japan’s most relaxed cities, where a clutch of dreamy temples lurks in the mountainous forests around the fabulously preposterous UNESCO-listed Tōshō-gū complex.

You can book these trips with Rough Guides, or we can help you create your own. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama The lovingly preserved villages of Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama, with their distinctive A-frame houses, give a glimpse of Japanese rural life centuries ago.

Kyoto Having functioned as capital for around one millennium, it’s no surprise that over two dozen places in Kyoto have been protected as World Heritage Sites; whatever you do, don’t miss the phenomenal Kiyomizu-dera temple.

Miyajima Close to Hiroshima, this is one of Japan’s most famed attractions – a vermilion-red torii rising elegantly from the sea.

Nara This historic city has eight sites showcasing the early development of Buddhism, as well as a Shintō shrine, a primeval forest, a park and a palace.

Shuri-jō If you make it as far as Okinawa, don’t miss this castle, a fantastic relic of the Ryūkyū Kingdom that once ruled this gorgeous island chain.

TŌHOKU–HOKKAIDŌ

You could easily spend a couple of weeks wending your way up Honshū’s northern tip, full of rich heritage and timeless agricultural scenes, before making your way over into the unspoilt, wild landscape of Hokkaidō, Japan’s northernmost island, which bursts with natural phenomena and wildlife.

Sendai Stroll the tree-lined streets of the city and take day-trips to the Yamadera temple complex and the scenic bay of Matsushima.

Dewa-sanzan Spend a few days hiking up this extinct volcano along the pilgrims’ route taken by the Yamabushi ascetic mountain hermits.

Tōno Valley Cycle through the rural landscape of this flat valley and envelop yourself in the mysterious folk tales embedded in the region’s ancient shrines and rock carvings.

Aomori Stop in at Honshū’s northernmost city and take excursions to the eerie landscape of Shimokita Hantō, populated by wandering souls, and Towada-ko, for a hike around a volcanic lake.

Noboribetsu Onsen Explore the smoking, sulphurous volcanic landscape before a relaxing soak back at the inn and the delights of ryokan cuisine.

Otaru Step back in time and marvel at the imposing Meiji-era public buildings and luxurious homes built on the profits of the herring industry.

Sapporo From the ultimate summer evenings to snow sculptures in February, a visit to Hokkaidō’s bustling capital is a must.

Daisetsu-zan National Park Excellent skiing in winter, cherry blossoms in spring, endless fields of summer flowers and magnificent autumn colours – this national park has it all.

SHIKOKU

Shikoku is the least visited of Japan’s four main islands, but it is well worth making the trip here. The following itinerary could be done in two weeks, at a push, or at a more leisurely pace over three.

Inland Sea journey Naoshima and the exciting art islands offer captivating modern art and friendly people.

Takamatsu This amiable city has one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens and dozens of sanuki udon restaurants serving tasty thick white noodles.

Tokushima The city of the energetic Awa Odori dance festival also has a historic bunraku puppet theatre.

Kaifu Thanks to big waves and warm Pacific currents, Shikoku’s eastern coast is a great place to come if you’re on the lookout for excellent surfing spots.

Iya Valley One of the country’s most hidden regions, with rustic mountain villages and the atmosphere of an older, slower Japan.

Kōchi The hometown of Sakamoto Ryōma, one of Japan’s most revered samurai heroes, the densely populated city of Kōchi has a lively night food market.

Uwajima Visit a sex museum and watch a bloodless bullfighting match in this quiet, unassuming town.

Matsuyama Check out the magnificent ancient castle and historic hot spring of Dōgo Onsen in Shikoku’s largest city.

KYŪSHŪ

You could forget Tokyo and Kyoto entirely and still get a pretty accurate impression of Japan by visiting its third-largest island, home to active volcanoes, great food, friendly locals and hot springs aplenty.

Beppu One of Japan’s foremost hot-spring resorts, a small, pleasingly retro place where steam billows from the streets; there are hundreds of onsen pools here, including a couple of “secret” ones hiding away in the forested hills above town.

Fukuoka Start your trip in the island’s main city, where you can expect tasty meals, boisterous nightlife and a thoroughly enjoyable vibe.

Nagasaki Like Hiroshima, this city has rebounded with phenomenal gusto from the atomic blasts that left the place in tatters. Head on a trip to intriguing Battleship Island – a Bond-villain set so otherworldly that it didn’t even need to be touched up for the film.

Aso This giant volcanic crater, with sulphurous steam still shooting out from the peaks at its centre, is an easily accessible place in which to get a handle on rural Japan.

Kagoshima Interested in seeing a volcano explode? Sakurajima erupts several times a day, just across the bay from this unique city.

Yakushima The inspiration behind certain Studio Ghibli cartoons, the richly forested highlands on this pristine island feature trees so old, nobody has yet been able to verify their age.

Alamy

NARA PARK

< Back to Intro

Martin Richardson/Rough Guides

VENDING MACHINE, TOKYO

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Travel essentials

Getting there

Tokyo’s Narita International Airport, Osaka’s Kansai International Airport and Centrair near Nagoya are the main international flight gateways, while Tokyo’s Haneda Airport has recently expanded and now offers a wider range of international connections.

Airfares are highest around the Golden Week holiday period at the beginning of May, and the Obon festival in mid-August, as well as at Christmas and New Year, when seats are at a premium. Prices drop during the “shoulder” seasons – April to June and September to October – with the best deals in the low season, January to March and November to December (excluding Christmas and New Year).

Flights from the UK and Ireland

All Nippon Airways (ANA; ana.co.jp), British Airways ( britishairways.com), Japan Airlines (JAL; jal.com) and Virgin ( virgin-atlantic.com) fly nonstop from London to Tokyo, with the trip taking about twelve hours. Return fares start from around £550 direct if you’re very lucky, but since you can find occasional special indirect deals (usually via Russia, China or the Middle East) for as low as £400, it pays to shop around. There are no direct flights from Dublin; transferring in the Middle East can bring return prices as low as €600, though it’s always worth considering a budget flight to London or mainland Europe if you can find a good deal from there.

Flights from the US and Canada

A number of airlines fly nonstop from the US and Canada to Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya, including Air Canada ( aircanada.ca), All Nippon Airways (ANA; ana.co.jp), American Airlines ( aa.com), Japan Airlines (JAL; jal.com) and United ( united.com); there are connections from virtually every US regional airport. Flying time to Tokyo is around fifteen hours from New York, thirteen hours from Chicago and ten hours from Los Angeles. Low-season return fares to Tokyo start at around US$650 from Chicago or New York, US$500 from Los Angeles and Can$900 from Vancouver. However, be prepared to pay up to double these fares (especially for direct flights), and note that to get the cheapest deals you may have to transfer in China – which, unfortunately, involves looping back on yourself.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

Qantas ( qantas.com.au), Japan Airlines (JAL; jal.com) and Air New Zealand ( airnewzealand.com) operate nonstop flights to Tokyo from Australia and New Zealand. Flying time is around ten hours from eastern Australia and twelve hours from New Zealand. Return fares from Australia to Tokyo sometimes go under Aus$700 with Jetstar ( jetstar.com), who fly direct from Cairns and Gold Coast. From New Zealand direct routings cost NZ$1200 return and up, though you can lop a fair bit off this by flying with via Australia, or looking for a Fiji Airways sale via Nadi.

Flying from South Africa, you’ll be routed through Southeast Asia or the Middle East; prices usually start in the region of R12,000, though keep an eye out for promotional deals or fight-and-hotel packages.

Flights from other Asian countries

If you’re already in Asia, it can be quite cheap to fly to Tokyo with low-cost regional carriers. Air Asia ( airasia.com) have flights from Kuala Lumpur; Cebu Pacific ( cebupacificair.com) fly from Cebu and Manila; Eastar ( eastarjet.com), Jeju Air ( jejuair.net), Jin ( jinair.com) and T’way ( twayair.com) each run flights from Seoul; HK Express ( hkexpress.com) make the run from Hong Kong; and Scoot ( flyscoot.com) scoot over from Bangkok, Singapore and Taipei. Finally, Japanese operator Peach ( flypeach.com) offers flights from Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei.

A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

Train and ferry

Adventurous travellers can take advantage of a number of alternative routes to Japan from Europe and Asia via train and ferry. There are three long-distance train journeys – the Trans-Siberian, Trans-Mongolian and Trans-Manchurian – all of which will put you on the right side of Asia for a hop across to Japan. The shortest ferry route is on the hydrofoil between Busan in South Korea and Fukuoka (Hakata port) on Japan’s southern island of Kyūshū.

The Trans-Siberian train and getting there from Russia

The classic overland adventure route to or from Japan is via the Trans-Siberian train, a seven-night journey from Moscow to Vladivostok on Russia’s far-eastern coast. The cost of a one-way ticket in a four-berth sleeper compartment between Moscow and Vladivostok is around £305/US$380/Aus$540 (see seat61.com for the latest info), on top of which you’ll need to factor in costs for visas, hotels etc along the way. You’ll end up saving a lot of money if you arrange your own visa and buy tickets within Russia; however, to avoid some of the inevitable hassles (tickets often sell out in summer, for example), most people choose to go through an agent. The same advice goes for the Trans-Manchurian train, which heads from Moscow down through northern China and terminates in Beijing, and the Trans-Mongolian, which runs from Moscow via Mongolia to Beijing. You can then take a train to Shanghai and pick up a ferry to Japan (see below).

Aurora ( flyaurora.ru) and S7 ( s7.ru) offer connections from Vladivostok to Narita (2hr 20min). If you’re absolutely insistent on continuing your journey without flying, you can take a weekly ferry ( dbsferry.com) to the Japanese port of Sakaiminato, near Matsue. These head via the Korean city of Donghae, where there’s a nine-hour stopover, and take 43 hours in total. The cheapest tickets cost ¥26,000 one-way. For those planning to return from Japan to Europe on this route, you could try arranging your visa at the Russian Embassy in Tokyo or the Osaka consulate, though in practice you may have to go through an agency in your own country.

Ferries from China and South Korea

Both the Shanghai Ferry Company ( 06 6243 6345, shanghai-ferry.co.jp) and Japan–China International Ferry Co ( 06 6536 6541, shinganjin.com) ply the Shanghai–Osaka route (46hr; from ¥22,000); the latter heads from Kōbe on alternate weeks. Conditions on board are good, the berths are clean and comfortable, and facilities include swimming pools, restaurants and even discos.

There are daily ferry and hydrofoil services from Busan in South Korea to Fukuoka and Shimonoseki.

AGENTS AND OPERATORS

Japan Package Australia 02 9264 7384, japanpackage.com.au. Sydney-based agent offering a variety of Japan packages (including plenty of anime tours) as well as Japan Rail Passes.

Japan Travel Bureau (JTB) Canada 416 367 5824, jtb.ca; Australia 1300 739 330, japantravel.com.au. The various wings of this Japanese operation offer tours of the capital, Fuji, Nikkō and beyond.

Japan Travel Centre UK 020 7611 0150, japantravel-centre.com. Offers flights, accommodation packages, Japan Rail Passes and guided tours.

Mitsui Travel Australia 02 9232 2720, mitsuitravel.com.au. Specializing in shorter tours, including a two-day onsen stay in Tokyo and Hakone.

Travel Japan Australia 1800 802 552, traveljapan.com.au. Provides everything from flights (to Tokyo) and packages to customized itineraries.

Travel Wright wrightwaytravel.org. An annual tour to Japan (usually Sept) focused around the work and legacy of architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

< Back to Basics

Visas and entry requirements

All visitors to Japan must have a passport valid for the duration of their stay. At the time of writing, citizens of Ireland, the UK and certain other European countries can stay in Japan for up to ninety days without a visa provided they are visiting for tourism or business purposes; this stay can be extended for another three months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the US can also stay for up to ninety days without a visa, though this is not extendable and you are required to be in possession of a return air ticket. Anyone from these countries wishing to stay longer will have to leave Japan and then re-enter.

Citizens of certain other countries must apply for a visa in advance in their own country. Visas are usually free, though in certain circumstances you may be charged a fee of around ¥3000 for a single-entry visa. The rules on visas do change from time to time, so check first with the nearest Japanese embassy or consulate, or on the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs website www.mofa.go.jp.

Visa extensions

To get a visa extension you’ll need to fill in two copies of an “Application for Extension of Stay”, available from the Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau at 5-5-30 Kōnan, Minato-ku (Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 1–4pm; 03 5796 7111, www.immi-moj.go.jp), a short walk from Tennōzu Isle Station. Go early in the day, since the process takes forever; also note that your application may not be confirmed for two weeks. Bring along passport photos (and your passport, of course), a letter explaining your reasons for wanting to extend your stay, and a fee of ¥4000. In addition, you may be asked to show proof of sufficient funds to support your stay, and a valid onward ticket out of the country.

If you’re not a national of one of the few countries with six-month reciprocal visa exemptions (these include Ireland and the UK), expect a thorough grilling from the immigration officials. An easier option – and the only alternative available to nationals of those countries who are not eligible for an extension – may be a short trip out of the country, say to South Korea or Hong Kong, though you may still have to run the gauntlet of immigration officials on your return.

Working holiday visas

Citizens of the UK, Ireland, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, among other countries, can apply for a working holiday visa if they are aged between 18 and 30 (officially up to 25 for Canadians and Australians, though there are often ways around this); this grants a stay of up to one year and entitles the holder to take paid employment so long as your stay is “primarily deemed to be a holiday”. Full details of the scheme can be found at www.mofa.go.jp.

Note that if you’re on any sort of working visa and you leave Japan temporarily, you must get a re-entry visa before you leave if you wish to continue working on your return. Re-entry visas are available from local immigration bureaux.

Volunteer visas

British nationals are eligible for the volunteer visa scheme, which allows holders to undertake voluntary work for charitable organizations in Japan for up to one year. Your application must include a letter from the host organization confirming details of the voluntary work to be undertaken and the treatment the volunteer will receive (pocket money and board and lodging are allowed, but formal remuneration is not). You must also be able to show evidence of sufficient funds for your stay in Japan. Contact the Japanese embassy (see below) to check the current details of the scheme.

Residency cards

Foreigners legally allowed to stay in Japan for more than ninety days – basically those with legal employment or married to a Japanese citizen – must obtain residency status before their first ninety days is up. Resident cards (zairyū kādo; 在留カード) can be issued, with prior arrangement, at the main international airports, though most people end up applying at their local government office. The cards include your photograph and must (legally speaking) be carried at all times, though they’re rarely checked.

JAPANESE EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES

You’ll find a full list on www.mofa.go.jp.

Australia 112 Empire Circuit, Yarralumla, Canberra 02 6273 3244, www.au.emb-japan.go.jp.

Canada 255 Sussex Drive, Ottawa 613 241 8541, www.ca.emb-japan.go.jp.

China 1 Liangmaqiao Dongjie, Chaoyang, Beijing 010 8531 9800, www.cn.emb-japan.go.jp.

Ireland Nutley Building, Merrion Centre, Nutley Lane, Dublin 01 202 8300, www.ie.emb-japan.go.jp.

New Zealand Level 18, Majestic Centre, 100 Willis St, Wellington 04 473 1540, www.nz.emb-japan.go.jp.

Singapore 16 Nassim Rd 65 235 8855, www.sg.emb-japan.go.jp.

South Africa 259 Baines St, Groenkloof, Pretoria 012 452 1500, www.za.emb-japan.go.jp.

South Korea 6 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 02 2170 5200, www.kr.emb-japan.go.jp.

UK 101–104 Piccadilly, London 020 7465 6500, www.uk.emb-japan.go.jp; 2 Melville Crescent, Edinburgh 0131 225 4777, www.edinburgh.uk.emb-japan.go.jp.

US 2520 Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington DC 202 238 6700, www.us.emb-japan.go.jp.

< Back to Basics

Getting around

The time of year is an important factor to consider when arranging your transport around Japan. Peak travelling seasons are the few days either side of New Year, the Golden Week holidays of late April and early May, and the mid-August Obon holiday. During these times, the whole of Japan can seem on the move, with trains, planes and ferries packed to the gills and roads clogged with traffic. Book well in advance and be prepared to pay higher fares on flights, as all discounts are suspended during peak periods.

Domestic travel agencies, such as Japan Travel Bureau, can book all types of transport and are also useful sources for checking travel schedules. The staff in these agencies have access to the jikokuhyō timetable, an incredible source of information, updated monthly, on virtually every form of public transport in Japan. There’s always a jikokuhyō available for consultation at stations, and most hotels have a copy too.

TRAVEL INFORMATION SERVICE

JR East Infoline (daily 10am–6pm; 050 2016 1603) is an information service in English, Chinese and Korean dealing with all train enquiries nationwide. Train bookings cannot be made on this service, but they will be able to tell you about the fastest route between any two points on the system and where to make a seat reservation.

If you’re going to travel around Japan a lot, get hold of a Japan Railways (JR) English timetable for all the Shinkansen and many major express train services, available from JNTO offices in Japan and abroad and at major train stations. Also incredibly useful is the Hyperdia Timetable ( hyperdia.com), an online resource providing a whole range of travel options, including transfers by air, bus, train and ferry between almost any two points in Japan; using the “from/to” function on Google Maps will also give you most of the information you’ll require.

By train

The vast majority of services on Japan’s brilliant rail network are operated by the six regional JR (Japan Railways) companies: JR Hokkaidō ( www.jrhokkaido.co.jp), JR East ( www.jreast.co.jp), JR Central ( english.jr-central.co.jp), JR West ( www.westjr.co.jp), JR Shikoku ( jr-shikoku.co.jp) and JR Kyūshū ( jrkyushu.co.jp). JR is run as a single company as far as buying tickets is concerned. Smaller rail companies, including Hankyū, Kintetsu, Meitetsu, Odakyū and Tōbu, are based in the major cities and surrounding areas, but in the vast majority of Japan it’s JR services that you’ll be using.

Individual tickets can be pricey, especially for the fastest trains, but many discount tickets and rail passes are available to cut the cost. If you plan to travel extensively by train, the various Japan Rail passes provide the best overall deal. If you have lots of time, and are travelling during the main student holiday periods, the Seishun 18 ticket is also an excellent buy.

Shinkansen

For many visitors, riding the Shinkansen (新幹線) is an eagerly anticipated part of a trip to Japan. Often referred to as the “Bullet Train” because of the smooth, rounded design of the earliest locomotives, you’ll barely notice the speed of these smooth-running beasts, which purr along some lines at a whopping 320kph; some lines are planning to upgrade to 360kph in due course. They are also frighteningly punctual (two seconds late on the platform and you’ll be waving goodbye to the back end of the train), not to mention reliable (only the severest weather conditions or earthquakes stop the Shinkansen).

The busiest Shinkansen route is the Tōkaidō–San'yō line, which runs west from Tokyo through Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima, terminating at Hakata Station in Fukuoka (the Tōkaidō line runs from Tokyo to Shin-Osaka Station, while the San'yō line continues from there to Fukuoka).

The Tōhoku line is the main northern route, passing through Sendai and terminating at Shin-Aomori; an extension through the Seikan Tunnel to Hakodate opened in 2016, and this new Hokkaidō line will be extended to Sapporo by 2030. The Akita line runs from Tokyo to Akita on the north coast, while the Yamagata line to Shinjō, in the middle of the Tōhoku region, splits off west from the Tōhoku line at Fukushima; these are both “mini-Shinkansen” services, and are not as fast as the regular ones.

The Jōetsu line heads north from Tokyo, tunnelling through the mountains to Niigata along the Sea of Japan coast, with the Nagano line (also known as the Hokuriku line) branching off west at Takasaki to end at Nagano; an extension to Kanazawa opened in 2015. Lastly, the Kyūshū line connects Kagoshima with Hakata.

To travel by Shinkansen, you’ll pay a hefty surcharge on top of the basic fare for a regular train. Three types of Shinkansen services are available: the Kodama (こだま), which stops at all stations; the Hikari (ひかり), which stops only at major stations; and the Nozomi (のぞみ; available on the Tōkaidō–San'yō line only), the fastest service, for which you’ll have to pay an extra fee (and which you’re not allowed to take if you’re travelling on most types of rail pass). If you’re travelling from Tokyo to Fukuoka, the Nozomi shaves an hour off the six-hour journey on the Hikari, but for shorter hops to Nagoya, Kyoto or Osaka, the time saved isn’t generally worth the extra expense. Note that some lines employ alternative names for these services; for example, the Kyūshū Shinkansen has Tsubame (slowest), Sakura and Mizuho (fastest) services.

LEFT LUGGAGE

You’ll usually only find left-luggage offices at the largest train stations in big cities, though all train stations, many subway stations, department stores and shopping centres have coin lockers where you can stash your bags. These come in a range of sizes, charging from ¥300 to ¥600 for a day’s storage.

On the train, there are announcements and electronic signs in English telling you which stations are coming up. Get to the door in good time before the train arrives, as you’ll generally only have a few seconds in which to disembark before the train shoots off again.

Other trains

Aside from the Shinkansen, the fastest services are limited express (tokkyū; 特急) trains, their misleading name deriving from the fact that they make a limited number of stops. Like Shinkansen, you have to pay a surcharge to travel on them, and there are separate classes of reserved and non-reserved seats. Less common are the express trains (kyūkō; 急行), which also only stop at larger stations but carry a lower surcharge. Oddly, the rapid trains (kaisoku; 快速) are slower still, making more stops than express ones, but with no surcharge. Ordinary trains (futsū; 普通) are local services stopping at all stations, and usually limited to routes under 100km.

The above categories of train and surcharges apply to all JR services, and to some, but not all, private rail routes. To confuse matters further, you may find that if you’re travelling on a JR train on one of the more remote branch lines, you may be charged an additional fare due to part of the old JR network having been sold off to another operating company.

There are several SL (steam locomotive) services across the country, which run from spring through to autumn, mainly at weekends and during holidays. These leisurely trains, with lovingly restored engines and carriages, are a huge hit with tourists, and you’d be well advised to book in advance. Among the most popular routes are the the JR Kamaishi line from Tōno in northern Honshū and the Yamaguchi line between Ogōri and Tsuwano in western Honshū.

Buying tickets

JR tickets can be bought at any JR station and at many travel agencies. At major city stations, there will be a fare map in English beside the vending machine. Otherwise, if you’re buying your ticket from the ticket counter, it’s a good idea to have written down on a piece of paper the date and time you wish to travel, your destination, the number of tickets you want and whether you’ll need smoking or non-smoking seats. A fallback is to buy the minimum fare ticket from the vending machine and pay any surcharges on or when leaving the train – though this may sound dodgy, it’s completely kosher, and locals often do this too.

To make advance reservations for tokkyū and Shinkansen trains, or to buy special types of tickets, you’ll generally need to go to the green window, or “midori-no-madoguchi” – sales counters marked by a green logo.

TRAIN CLASSES AND RESERVATIONS

On Shinkansen trains and JR tokkyū (limited express) and kyūkō (express) services, there’s a choice of ordinary (futsū-sha; 普通車) carriages or more expensive first-class Green Car (guriin-sha; グリーン車) carriages, where seats are two abreast either side of the aisle (as opposed to three). There may be a choice between smoking (kitsuen; 喫煙), and non-smoking (kin’en; 禁煙) cars; these days, many services are either entirely non-smoking or have smoking cabins in between certain carriages. On Nozomi Shinkansen, it’s also possible to buy standing-only tickets for a small discount.

Each train also has both reserved (shitei-seki; 指定席), and unreserved (jiyū-seki; 自由席) sections. Seat reservations cost between ¥300 and ¥500, depending on the season; they are free if you have a rail pass. You cannot sit in the reserved section of a train without a reservation, even if it’s empty and the unreserved section full, although you can buy a reservation ticket from the train conductor.

If you don’t have a reservation, aim to get to the station early, locate your platform and stand in line at the marked section for the unreserved carriages; ask the platform attendants for jiyū-seki, and they’ll point the way. If you have a reservation, platform signs will also direct you where to stand, so that you’re beside the right door when the train pulls in.

In order to swap your exchange voucher for a Japan Rail Pass, you’ll have to go to a designated ticket office; they’re listed in the booklet you’ll receive with your rail pass voucher and on the rail pass website.

Japan Rail passes

If you plan to make just one long-distance train journey, such as Tokyo to Kyoto one-way, a Japan Rail Pass ( japanrailpass.net) will not be good value, but in all other cases it will be. The pass can usually only be bought outside Japan from a travel agency for a few suggestions), but JR has occasionally allowed purchases inside Japan (often for a premium), so check the latest situation before you travel. For unfettered flexibility, the full Japan Rail Pass is the way to go, while regional Japan Rail Passes are good deals if they fit with your travel itinerary; most regional passes can be purchased at stations inside Japan. All the prices quoted here are for ordinary rail passes – Green Car passes cost more. Note that you will have to be travelling on a tourist visa to buy any of these passes.

The full Japan Rail Pass allows travel on virtually all JR services throughout Japan, including buses and ferries, and is valid for seven (¥38,880), fourteen (¥62,950) or twenty-one (¥81,870) consecutive days. The major services for which they are not valid are the Nozomi Shinkansen trains ; if you’re caught on one of these, even unwittingly, you’ll be liable for the full fare for the trip. As with all JR tickets, children aged between 6 and 11 years inclusive pay half-price, while those under 6 travel free.

If you buy the pass abroad, the cost in your own currency will depend on the exchange rate at the time of purchase – you might be able to save a little money by shopping around between agents offering the pass, because they don’t all use the same exchange rate. You’ll be given an exchange voucher, which must be swapped for a pass in Japan within three months. Once issued, the dates on the pass cannot be changed. Exchanges can only be made at designated JR stations; you’ll be issued with a list of locations (essentially every major JR station and international airport) when you buy your pass. Note that passes can only be issued if you’re travelling on a temporary visitor visa; JR staff are very strict about this, and you’ll be asked to show your passport when you present your exchange voucher for the pass or when you buy a pass directly in Japan. Also, note that if you lose your pass, it will not be replaced, so take good care of it.

JR Pass holders can get a discount, typically around 10 percent, at all JR Group hotels; check the list in the information booklet provided when you buy your pass.

Other discount tickets

The Seishun 18 ticket (青春１８きっぷ; jreast.co.jp) is available to everyone regardless of age, but only valid during school vacations (roughly July 20 to September 10, and December 10 to January 10; they go on sale ten days before the school vacations start, and can be bought up to ten days before the vacations end. For ¥11,850 you get five day-tickets that can be used to travel anywhere in Japan, as long as you take only the slow futsū and kaisoku trains. The tickets can also be split and used individually by different people. If you’re not in a hurry, this ticket can be the biggest bargain on the whole of Japan’s rail system: you can, for example, use one of the day-tickets to travel from Tokyo to Nagasaki – it’ll take almost 24 hours, but cost the equivalent of just over ¥2000. The tickets are also handy for touring a local area in a day, since you can get on and off trains as many times as you wish within 24 hours.

JAPAN REGIONAL RAIL PASSES

If you’ll be concentrating on one or two specific parts of Japan, it may be wise to take advantage of the many regional passes on offer. Most of these can be purchased inside Japan.

All Shikoku Rail Pass JR Shikoku jr-shikoku.co.jp. Covers the whole island, and allows travel on JR and private lines, from three days (¥9000) to five days (¥13,000); you can purchase these inside Japan for an extra ¥500.

Hokkaidō Rail Pass JR Hokkaidō www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global. Covers the whole island. ¥16,500 for a three-day ticket, ¥22,000 for five days and ¥24,000 for seven days.

Kansai Area Pass JR West www.westjr.co.jp. Covers the Kansai area. ¥2200 for one day, ¥4300 for two days, ¥5300 for three days and ¥6300 for four days. JR West also offer other passes covering slightly different areas, including the San'yō-San'in Pass (¥22,000/23,000 purchased outside/inside Japan for seven days), which also covers northern Kyūshū.

Kyūshū Rail Pass JR Kyūshū jrkyushu.co.jp. Covers the whole island. ¥15,000 for three days, ¥18,000 for five days. The Northern Kyūshū Rail Pass covers just the north, including Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Aso, Yufuin and Beppu (¥8500 for three days, ¥10,000 for five days).

Nagano, Niigata Area Pass JR East www.jreast.co.jp. Covers Nagano and Niigata area of northern Honshū, including Nikkō. ¥17,000/18,000 purchased outside/inside Japan, valid for five days within a fourteen-day period.

Tōhoku Area Pass JR East www.jreast.co.jp. Covers most of northern Honshū, including Aomori, Sendai and Nikko. ¥19,000/20,000 purchased outside/inside Japan, valid for five journeys within a fourteen-day period.

Tokyo Wide Pass JR East www.jreast.co.jp. Covers the full Greater Tokyo area. ¥10,000 for three days.

DISCOUNT TICKET SHOPS

In most big cities, usually in shopping areas near stations, you can find discount ticket shops, or kinken shoppu (金券ショップ), which sell, among other things, cheap airline and Shinkansen tickets. These shops buy up discount group tickets and sell them on individually, usually at around twenty percent cheaper than the regular prices. These are legitimate operations, but you’ll need to be able to read and speak some Japanese to be sure you’ve got the ticket you need, and there may be some days when travel isn’t allowed. With the Shinkansen tickets, you can’t make seat reservations at these shops, so you’ll need to go to a JR ticket office to arrange these.

Kaisūken (回数券) are usually four or more one-way tickets to the same destination. These work out substantially cheaper than buying the tickets individually, and as such are good for groups travelling to the same destination.

Furii kippu (フリー切符) excursion-type tickets are available for various areas of Japan, usually with unlimited use of local transport for a specified period of time. The Hakone Freepass , offered by the Odakyū railway company, covering routes from Tokyo to the lakeland area of Hakone, is particularly good value. If you plan to travel in one area, it’s always worth asking the JR East Infoline or the tourist information offices if there are any other special tickets that could be of use.

By plane

The big two domestic airlines are All Nippon Airways (ANA; ana.co.jp) and Japan Airlines (JAL; jal.co.jp). Both carriers offer substantial discounts for advance bookings, with an extra discount if the booking is made entirely online. There’s little difference between the two as far as prices and quality of service are concerned.

Local low-cost airlines have ballooned of late, providing much-needed competition to the rail operators; these include Jetstar ( jetstar.com), Peach ( flypeach.com), Skymark ( skymark.co.jp) and Solaseed Air ( solaseedair.jp). Services are usually fine, though with the usual restrictions on baggage allowance.

If you’re not using a rail pass, low-cost or discounted plane fares are well worth considering. For example, to travel by train to Sapporo from Tokyo costs ¥27,020 and takes over eight hours, compared with a discounted plane fare which can fall to as low as ¥9000 for a journey of an hour and a half. Discounts are generally not available during the peak travelling seasons.

Both JAL and ANA offer discount flight passes to overseas visitors, which are definitely worth considering if you plan to make several plane trips. JAL ( jal.co.jp/yokosojapan) offers the oneworld Yokoso and Welcome to Japan passes: the former pass, only available to those using oneworld carriers to fly into Japan (including JAL, British Airways and Qantas), allows you to purchase up to five flights at the fixed price of ¥10,800 each; the latter pass, available to anyone regardless of which airline used, is more expensive, and you need to buy a minimum of two flights. These fares are excellent value if you plan to visit far-flung destinations, such as the islands of Okinawa. These tickets are not available during peak travelling seasons such as July and August and the New Year and Golden Week holidays.

By bus

Japan has a comprehensive system of long-distance buses (chōkyori basu; 長距離バス), including night buses (yakō basu; 夜行バス), between major cities. Fares are always cheaper than the fastest trains, but the buses are usually slower and can get caught up in traffic, even on the expressways (Japan’s fastest roads), especially during peak travel periods. Most bus journeys start and finish next to or near the main train station. For journeys over two hours, there is usually at least one rest stop.

Willer Express ( willerexpress.com) is one of the largest long-distance bus operators and offers some great deals, including special three-, five- and seven-day bus passes for foreign visitors. A seven-hour overnight service from Tokyo to Kyoto can cost as little as ¥3200 (as well as saving you a night’s accommodation); by way of comparison, the fastest Shinkansen costs ¥14,100, but takes just over two hours.

There are hundreds of small bus companies operating different routes, so for full details of current services, timetables and costs make enquiries with local tourist information offices. Buses come into their own in the more rural parts of Japan where there are few or no trains. With a handful of exceptions (mentioned in the Guide), you don’t need to book tickets on such services but can pay on the bus. JR runs a number of buses, some of which are covered by the various rail passes. Other private bus companies may also offer bus passes to certain regions; again, check with local tourist offices for any deals.

By ferry

One of the most pleasant ways of travelling around this island nation is by ferry. Overnight journeys between Honshū and Hokkaidō in the north, and Kyūshū and Shikoku in the south, are highly recommended. If you can’t spare the time, try a short hop, say to one of the islands of the Inland Sea, or from Niigata to Sado-ga-shima.

On the overnight ferries, the cheapest fares, which entitle you to a sleeping space on the floor of a large room with up to a hundred other passengers, can be a bargain compared with train and plane fares to the same destinations. For example, the overnight ferry fare from Ōarai, two hours north of Tokyo, to Tomakomai, around an hour south of Sapporo on Hokkaidō, can be as low as ¥9900 ( sunflower.co.jp); even if you pay extra for a bed in a shared or private berth, it’s still cheaper than the train, and you’ll have a very comfortable cruise as part of the bargain. Ferries are also an excellent way of transporting a bicycle or motorbike (though you’ll pay a small supplement for these); many also take cars.

Ferry schedules are subject to seasonal changes and also vary according to the weather, so for current details of times and prices, it’s best to consult the local tourist information office.

By car

While it would be foolhardy to rent a car to get around Japan’s big cities, driving is often the best way to tour the country’s less populated and off-the-beaten-track areas. Japanese roads are of a very high standard, with the vast majority of signs on main routes being in rōmaji as well as Japanese script. Although you’ll have to pay tolls to travel on the expressways (reckon on around ¥30 per kilometre), many other perfectly good roads are free; regular petrol averages around ¥140 a litre.

Car rental

For a group of people, renting a car to tour a rural area over a couple of days can work out much better value than taking buses. It’s often possible to rent cars for less than a day, too, for short trips. There are car rental counters at all the major airports and train stations. The main Japanese companies include Mazda Rent-a-Car ( mazda-rentacar.co.jp); Nippon Rent-a-Car ( nipponrentacar.co.jp); Nissan Rent-a-Car ( nissan-rentacar.com); and Toyota Rent-a-Car ( rent.toyota.co.jp). Budget, Hertz and National also have rental operations across Japan (although not as widely spread). Rates, which vary little between companies and usually include unlimited mileage, start from around ¥5500 for the first 24 hours for the smallest type of car (seating four people), plus ¥1000 insurance. During the peak seasons of Golden Week, Obon and New Year, rates for all cars tend to increase.

Since you’re unlikely to want to drive in any of the cities, the best rental deals are often through Eki Rent-a-Car ( www.ekiren.co.jp), which gives a discounted rate by combining the rental with a train ticket to the most convenient station for the area you wish to explore. Eki Rent-a-Car’s offices are close to stations, as are often those of other major car rental firms. Another interesting option for getting around Japan is Japan Campers ( japancampers.com), which has a range of excellent camper vans for hire from their lot near Narita Airport.

Most cars come with sat nav, sometimes with an English-language mode – ask when you book. Inputting the telephone number or address can be fiddlier than on your phone, but the system will usually be more reliable.

To rent a car you must have an international driver’s licence based on the 1949 Geneva Convention (some international licences are not valid, including those issued in France, Germany and Switzerland), as well as your national licence. Officially, if you have a French, German or Swiss licence (regular or international) you are supposed to get an official Japanese translation of the licence – contact your local Japanese embassy for further info. You may get lucky and find a car rental firm that doesn’t know or ignores this rule, but don’t count on it. If you’ve been in Japan for more than six months, you’ll need to apply for a Japanese licence.

CABLE-CARS AND ROPEWAYS

It’s worth noting a linguistic distinction that applies to the transport at several of Japan’s mountain resorts. What is known in the West as a cable car (a capsule suspended from a cable going up a mountain) is called a “ropeway” in Japan, while the term “cable car” means a funicular or rack-and-pinion railway.

Rules of the road

Driving is on the left, the same as in Britain, Ireland, Australia, South Africa and most of Southeast Asia, and international traffic signals are used. If you’re a member of an automobile association at home, the chances are that you’ll qualify for reciprocal rights with the Japan Auto Federation ( www.jaf.or.jp), which publishes the English-language Rules of the Road book, detailing Japan’s driving code. The top speed limit in Japan is 80kph, which applies only on expressways, though drivers frequently exceed this and are rarely stopped by police. In cities, the limit is 40kph.

If you’ve drunk any alcohol at all, even the smallest amount, don’t drive – it’s illegal, as well as dumb, and if you’re caught by the police you’ll be in big trouble, as will anyone sharing the vehicle with you (drunk or otherwise).

Parking

There are always car parks close to main train stations; at some, your vehicle will be loaded onto a rotating conveyor belt and whisked off to its parking spot. Reckon on ¥500 per hour for a central city car park and ¥300 per hour elsewhere. If you manage to locate a parking meter, take great care not to overstay the time paid for (usually around ¥300/hour); some have mechanisms to trap cars, which will only be released once the fine has been paid directly into the meter (typically ¥10,000–15,000). In rural areas, parking is not so much of a problem and is rarely charged.

By bike

Although you’re unlikely to want to cycle around the often traffic-clogged streets of Japan’s main cities, a bike is a great way to get from A to B in the smaller towns and countryside, allowing you to see plenty en route. Cycle touring is a very popular activity with students over the long summer vacation. Hokkaidō, in particular, is a cyclist’s dream, with excellent roads through often stunning scenery and a network of basic but ultra-cheap cyclists’ accommodation.

In many places, you can rent bikes from outlets beside or near the train station; some towns even have free bikes – enquire at the tourist office. Youth hostels often rent out bikes, too, usually at the most competitive rates. You can buy a brand-new bike in Japan for under ¥20,000 but you wouldn’t want to use it for anything more than getting around town; for sturdy touring and mountain bikes, hunt out a specialist bike shop or bring your own. Although repair shops can be found nationwide, for foreign models it’s best to bring essential spare parts with you. And despite Japan’s low crime rate, a small but significant section of the Japanese public treats bikes as common property; if you don’t want to lose it, make sure your bike is well chained whenever you leave it.

If you plan to take your bike on a train or bus, ensure you have a bike bag in which to parcel it up; on trains, you’re also supposed to pay a special bike transport supplement, but almost nobody does this.

If you’re planning a serious cycling tour, an excellent investment is Cycling Japan by Brian Harrell, a handy practical guide detailing many touring routes around the country. There’s also useful cycling information on sites such as japancycling.org and outdoorjapan.com.

Hitching

There’s always a risk associated with hitching. That said, Japan is one of the safest and easiest places in the world to hitch a ride, and in some rural areas it’s just about the only way of getting around without your own transport. It’s also a fantastic way to meet locals, who are often only too happy to go kilometres out of their way to give you a lift just for the novelty value (impecunious students apart, hitching is very rare in Japan), or the opportunity it provides to practise English or another foreign language.

As long as you don’t look too scruffy, you’ll seldom be waiting long for a ride; as is the case anywhere, it’s best to pick your standing point wisely (somewhere cars can see you and stop safely, and are likely to be heading your way). It’s a good idea to write your intended destination in large kanji characters on a piece of card to hold up. Note that in Japan, convenience stores are a godsend; almost all have toilets, and spare cardboard boxes which you can tear up and scrawl your destination on. Carry a stock of small gifts you can leave as a thank you; postcards, sweets and small cuddly toys are usually popular. Will Ferguson’s A Hitchhiker’s Guide to Japan and his entertaining travel narrative Hokkaidō Highway Blues are useful reference books.

City transport

Japan is famed for its efficient, clean and safe public transport, and that extends to cities too, whether you’re travelling by subway, bus, monorail, tram or ferry. Many cities offer useful pre-paid transport cards, which are listed through the Guide. For planning journeys, the route function on Google Maps ( maps.google.com) usually works like a charm.

Subway

Tokyo’s colourful subway map may look daunting, but the system is relatively easy to negotiate. This subway system, and others around the country (Fukuoka, Kōbe, Kyoto, Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo, Sendai and Yokohama), employ simple colour-coding on trains and maps, as well as clear English-language signage. Tickets usually start at around ¥170, and increase by number of stations travelled; buy them at the vending machines beside the gates. Trains usually run daily from around 5am to midnight.

Buses

Buses are a good way of cutting across certain cities. Compared to the subway there’s little information in English; you may have to get used to recognizing kanji place names, or memorize the numbers of useful bus routes. The final destination is listed on the front of the bus, along with the route number. In some cities you pay a flat rate on entry; in others, you take a numbered ticket on entry, and the driver uses this to calculate the final total on disembarkation (you’ll see it ticking upwards on a panel above his head).

Taxis

For short hops, taxis are often a good, if expensive, option. The basic rate is ¥410 for the first 1km, after which the meter racks up ¥80 every 237m, plus a time charge when the taxi is moving at less than 10km per hour. Between 11pm and 5am, rates are 25 percent higher. All in all, you can easily end up spending thousands on a single short ride.

Note that there’s never any need to open or close the passenger doors, which are operated by the taxi driver – trying to do it manually can damage the mechanism, and will get your driver seething. This is just one reason why some taxis refuse to take foreigners; communication difficulties are another, bigger, reason, and as such it’s always a good idea to have the name and address of your destination clearly written on a piece of paper (in Japanese, if possible).

< Back to Basics

Accommodation

Japan’s reputation for being an extremely expensive place to visit is a little outdated in most fields – but it’s certainly justified as far as accommodation goes. The country suffers from a dearth of accommodation at more or less all budget levels, and there are few bargains. However, if you look hard you’ll find plenty of affordable places. You’ll often find the best value – along with plenty of atmosphere – at a traditional ryokan or a family-run minshuku, the Japanese equivalent of a B&B.

It’s wise to reserve at least your first few nights’ accommodation before arrival, especially at the cheaper hostels and minshuku in Tokyo and Kyoto, where budget places can prove elusive. If you do arrive without a reservation, make use of the free accommodation booking services in Narita and Kansai International airports . Once in Japan, book one or two days ahead to ensure that your selected targets aren’t full. Outside peak season, however, you’ll rarely be stuck for accommodation. Around major train stations there’s usually a clutch of business hotels and a tourist information desk – the majority will make a booking for you.

Most large- and medium-sized hotels in big cities have English-speaking receptionists. The cheaper and more rural the place, however, the more likely you are to have to speak in Japanese, or a mix of Japanese and English. Don’t be put off: armed with the right phrases, and speaking slowly and clearly, you should be able to make yourself understood – many of the terms you’ll need are actually English words pronounced in a Japanese way. If you’re having difficulty, the staff at your current accommodation may be able to help. Booking online is now pretty standard; major chains and places that receive a lot of foreign guests generally have an English-language page (though often on amazingly dated-looking websites), and there’s now plenty of choice on the main international booking engines.

ROUGH GUIDE ACCOMMODATION PRICES

Unless stated otherwise, hotel prices in this book are quoted per night for the cheapest double room in high season, excluding breakfast. Ryokans and other traditional accommodation always quote per person, usually with food, so for these places we give the price for two people including breakfast and dinner; exceptions are noted in the reviews. For hostels we quote the per-person rate for a dorm bed, as well as the price of private rooms where available; breakfast is not included unless otherwise stated. Capsule hotel rates are for a single “room” for one person. All necessary taxes and service charges are included in the quoted rates.

JAPANESE SCRIPT

To help you find your way around, we’ve included Japanese script for all place names and for sights, hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars and shops. Where the English name for a point of interest is very different from its Japanese name, we’ve also provided the rōmaji, so that you can easily pronounce the Japanese.

Check-in is generally between 3pm and 7pm, and check-out by 10am. Almost without exception, security is not a problem, though it’s never sensible to leave valuables lying around in your room. In hostels, it’s advisable to use lockers, if provided, or leave important items at the reception desk. Standards of service and cleanliness vary according to the type of establishment, but are usually more than adequate.

Payment and taxes

While credit cards are becoming more widely accepted, in many cases payment is still expected in cash. In hostels and many cheaper business hotels, you’ll be expected to pay when you check in.

While all hotel rates must include ten percent consumption tax, there are a couple of other taxes to look out for. Most top-end hotels add a service charge of ten to fifteen percent, while in Tokyo the Metropolitan Government levies a tax of ¥100 per person per night in rooms that cost over ¥10,000 per person per night (or ¥200 if the room costs over ¥15,000); check to make sure if these are included in the published room rate. In hot-spring resorts, there’s a small onsen tax (usually ¥150), though again this may already be included in the rates. And it’s always worth asking when booking if there are any deals, usually referred to as “plans”, such as special weekend rates at business hotels.

Tipping is not necessary, nor expected, in Japan. The only exception is at high-class Japanese ryokan, where it’s good form to leave ¥2000 for the room attendant – put the money in an envelope and hand it over discreetly at the end of your stay.

ONLINE ACCOMMODATION RESOURCES

Japan Hotel Association j-hotel.or.jp. Covering most major cities, though the hotels tend to be part of big, expensive chains. Lots of information provided.

Japan Hotel Net japanhotel.net. Offering a good range of accommodation nationwide, with a special section on ski resorts. Lots of information, including photos.

JAPANiCAN japanican.com. Good deals on around 4000 hotels, ryokan and tours across the country.

Japan Ryokan Association ryokan.or.jp. Around 1200 ryokan and hotels offering Japanese-style accommodation, many of them with onsen baths. Links take you to the relevant homepage, and there’s plenty of background information about staying in ryokan.

Japanese Guest Houses japaneseguesthouses.com. Over 550 ryokan – from humble to grand – across the country. Also offer cultural tours in Kyoto.

The Ryokan Collection ryokancollection.com. Book one of 38 specially selected top ryokan, grouped in six locations across Japan.

Travel Rakuten travel.rakuten.com. Pick of the local booking sites with great discounts on published rates and the broadest selection of properties.

Hotels

Most Western-style hotel rooms have en-suite bathrooms, TV, phone and air conditioning as standard; there’s usually wi-fi too. Don’t expect a lot of character, however, especially among the older and cheaper business hotels, although things are slowly beginning to improve and even relatively inexpensive chains are now smartening up their act.

Rates for a double or twin room range from an average of ¥30,000 at a top-flight hotel, to ¥15,000–20,000 for a smartish establishment, which will usually have a restaurant and room service. At the lowest level, a room in a basic hotel with minimal amenities will cost ¥5000–10,000. Charges usually vary quite a bit depending upon how many people are using the room (double rooms are frequently double the price of singles); breakfast is usually available for an additional fee (sometimes quite substantial), but occasionally free. Most hotels offer non-smoking rooms, and some have “ladies’ floors”.

Business hotels

Modest business hotels constitute the bulk of the middle and lower price brackets. Primarily designed for those travelling on business and usually clustered around train stations, they are perfect if all you want is a place to crash out, though at the cheapest places you may find just a box with a tiny bed, a desk and a chair crammed into the smallest possible space. While the majority of rooms are single, most places have a few twins, doubles or “semi-doubles” – a large single bed which takes two at a squeeze. Squeeze is also the operative word for the aptly named “unit baths”, which business hotels specialize in; these moulded plastic units contain a shower, bathtub, toilet and washbasin but leave little room for manoeuvre.

That said, some business hotels are relatively smart, and there are a number of reliable chains including Tōyoko Inn ( toyoko-inn.com), which has scores of hotels across the country, including a simple breakfast in their room rates. More upmarket are Washington Hotels ( washington-hotels.jp) and the Solare group ( solarehotels.com), which encompasses Chisun business hotels and the smarter Loisir chain. Some have smoking and non-smoking floors.

Capsule hotels

Catering mainly for commuters – often in various states of inebriation, and including some who have missed their last train home – are capsule hotels; you’ll find them mostly near major stations. Inside are rows of tube-like rooms, roughly 2m long, 1m high and 1m wide; despite their “coffin-like” reputation, they can feel surprisingly comfy, with a mattress, bedding, phone, alarm and TV built into the plastic surrounds. The “door” consists of a flimsy curtain, which won’t keep out the loudest snores, and they are definitely not designed for claustrophobics. However, they’re relatively cheap at ¥2500–4500 per night, and fun to try at least once, though the majority are for men only. You can’t stay in the hotel during the day – not that you’d want to – but you can leave luggage in their lockers. Check-in usually starts around 4pm and often involves buying a ticket from a vending machine in the lobby. Rates generally include a yukata (cotton dressing gown), towel and toothbrush set, and many establishments have onsen-like communal bathing facilities. Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka have seen a glut of couple of stylish modern takes on the capsule hotel enter the market, and they‘re of broader appeal than the regular sort.

Love hotels

Love hotels – where you can rent rooms by the hour – are another quintessential Japanese experience. Generally located in entertainment districts, they are immediately recognizable from the sign outside quoting prices for “rest” or “stay”, and many sport ornate exteriors. Some can be quite sophisticated: the main market is young people or married couples taking a break from crowded apartments. All kinds of tastes can be indulged at love hotels, with rotating beds in mirror-lined rooms now decidedly passé in comparison with some of the fantasy creations on offer. Some rooms even come equipped with video cameras so you can take home a souvenir DVD of your stay. You usually choose your room from a back-lit display indicating those still available, and then negotiate with a cashier lurking behind a tiny window (eye-to-eye contact is avoided to preserve privacy). Though “rest” rates are high (from about ¥5000 for 2hr), the price of an overnight stay can be the same as a business hotel (roughly ¥8000–10,000), although you usually can’t check in until around 10pm.

JAPANESE ADDRESSES

Japanese addresses are, frankly, a little bit ridiculous – this stems from the fact that in many places, including Tokyo, few roads have names; instead, city districts are split into numbered blocks, on which the numbers themselves are usually not visible.

Addresses start with the largest administrative district – in Tokyo’s case it’s Tōkyo-to (metropolis), but elsewhere most commonly it’s the ken (prefecture) accompanied by a seven-digit postcode – for example, Saitama-ken 850-0072. Next comes the ku (ward; for example Shinjuku-ku), followed by the chō (district), then three numbers representing the chōme (local neighbourhood), block and individual building. Finally, there might come the building name and the floor on which the business or person is located – much like the American system, 1F is the ground floor, 2F the first floor above ground, and B1F the first floor below ground.

Japanese addresses are therefore written in reverse order from the Western system. However, when written in English, they usually follow the Western order; this is the system we adopt in this guide. For example, the address 2-12-7 Roppongi, Minato-ku identifies building number 7, somewhere on block 12 of number 2 chōme in Roppongi district, in the Minato ward of Tokyo (this can also be written as 12-7 Roppongi, 2-chōme, Minato-ku). Where the block is entirely taken up by one building, the address will have only two numbers.

STAYING IN JAPANESE-STYLE ACCOMMODATION

Whenever you’re staying in Japanese-style accommodation, you’ll be expected to check in early – between 3pm and 6pm – and to follow local custom from the moment you arrive.

Just inside the front door, there’s usually a row of slippers for you to change into, but remember to slip them off when walking on the tatami. The bedding is stored behind sliding doors in your room during the day and only laid out in the evening. In top-class ryokan this is done for you, but elsewhere be prepared to tackle your own. There’ll be a mattress (which goes straight on the tatami) with a sheet to put over it, a soft quilt to sleep under, and a pillow stuffed with rice husks.

Most places provide a yukata, a loose cotton robe tied with a belt, and a short jacket (tanzen) in cold weather. The yukata can be worn in bed, during meals, when going to the bathroom and even outside – in resort areas many Japanese holiday-makers take an evening stroll in their yukata and wooden sandals (geta; also supplied by the ryokan). Wrap the left side of the yukata over the right; the opposite is used to dress the dead.

The traditional Japanese bath (furo) has its own set of rules. It’s customary to bathe in the evenings. In ryokan, there are usually separate bathrooms for men (男) and women (女), but elsewhere there will either be designated times for males and females, or you’ll simply have to wait until it’s vacant – it’s perfectly acceptable for couples and families to bathe together, though there’s not usually a lot of space.

Evening meals tend to be early, at 6pm or 7pm. Smarter ryokan generally serve meals in your room, while communal dining is the norm in cheaper places. At night, the doors are locked pretty early, so check before going out – they may let you have a key.

Japanese-style accommodation

A night in a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan, is one of the highlights of a visit to Japan. The best charge five-star hotel rates, but there are plenty where you can enjoy the full experience at affordable prices. Cheaper are minshuku, family-run guesthouses, and the larger government-owned kokuminshukusha (people’s lodges) located in national parks and resort areas. In addition, some temples and shrines offer simple accommodation, or you can arrange to stay with a Japanese family through the homestay programme.

It’s advisable to reserve at least a day ahead and essential if you want to eat in. Though a few places don’t take foreigners, mainly through fear of language problems and cultural faux pas, you’ll find plenty that do listed in the Guide chapters. JNTO publishes useful lists of ryokan, and there are several websites dedicated to them too.

Ryokan

Rooms in a typical ryokan are generally furnished with just a low table and floor cushions sitting on pale green rice-straw matting (tatami) and a hanging scroll – nowadays alongside a TV and phone – decorating the alcove (tokonoma) on one wall. Though you’ll increasingly find a toilet and washbasin in the room, baths are generally communal. The rules of ryokan etiquette may seem daunting, but overall these are great places to stay.

Room rates vary according to the season, the grade of room, the quality of meal you opt for and the number of people in a room; prices almost always include breakfast and an evening meal. Rates are usually quoted per person and calculated on the basis of two people sharing. One person staying in a room will pay slightly more than the advertised per-person price; three people sharing a room, slightly less. On average, a night in a basic ryokan will cost between ¥8000 and ¥10,000 per head, while a classier establishment, perhaps with meals served in the room, will cost up to ¥20,000. Top-rank ryokan with exquisite meals and the most attentive service imaginable can cost upwards of ¥50,000 per person.

At cheaper ryokan, it’s possible to ask for a room without meals, though this is frowned on at the more traditional places and, anyway, the delicious multicourse meals are often very good value. If you find miso soup, cold fish and rice a bit hard to tackle in the morning, you might want to opt for a Western breakfast, if available.

Minshuku and kokuminshukusha

There’s a fine line between the cheapest ryokan and a minshuku. In general, minshuku are smaller and less formal than ryokan: more like staying in a private home, with varying degrees of comfort and cleanliness. All rooms will be Japanese-style, with communal bathrooms and dining areas. A night in a minshuku will cost from around ¥4000 per person excluding meals, or from ¥6000 with two meals; rates are calculated in the same way as for ryokan.

TO BE, OR NOT TO AIRBNB ?

A combination of high occupancy rates and high accommodation prices have led many travellers to give Airbnb ( airbnb.com) a go; the bulk of apartments go for ¥10,000–20,000 per night, and private rooms ¥3000–12,000. Tokyo duly became the site’s fastest-growing market worldwide in early 2016, bringing the government under pressure from a hotel industry haemorrhaging revenue. Fears of a total crackdown were allayed in August of that year, when restrictions were lowered, rather than raised, though new registration rules introduced in 2018 removed thousands of Tokyo listings from the site. With the situation still somewhat up in the air, you’re advised to check the site, and news organs like the Japan Times ( japantimes.co.jp), for updates far in advance of your visit.

In country areas and popular resorts, you’ll also find homely guesthouses called pensions – a word borrowed from the French. Though the accommodation and meals are Western-style, these are really minshuku in disguise. They’re family-run – generally by young couples escaping city life – and specialize in hearty home cooking. Rates average around ¥8000 per head, including dinner and breakfast.

In the national parks, onsen resorts and other popular tourist spots, minshuku and pensions are supplemented by large, government-run kokuminshukusha, which cater to family groups and tour parties. They’re often quite isolated and difficult to get to without your own transport. The average cost of a night’s accommodation is around ¥8000 per person, including two meals.

Temples and shrines

A few Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines take in regular guests for a small fee, and some belong to the Japanese Inn Group or the Japan Youth Hostels association (see below). By far the best places to experience temple life are at the Buddhist retreat of Kōya-san and in Kyoto’s temple lodges.

Though the accommodation is inevitably basic, the food can be superb, especially in temple lodgings (shukubō), where the monks serve up delicious vegetarian cuisine (shōjin-ryōri). In many temples, you’ll also be welcome to attend the early-morning prayer ceremonies. Prices vary between ¥4000 and ¥10,000 per person, with no meals or perhaps just breakfast at lower rates.

Hostels

Japan has over four hundred hostels spread throughout the country, offering cheap accommodation. The majority of hostels are well run, clean and welcoming, with the best housed in wonderful old farmhouses or temples, often in great locations.

There are two main types of hostel in Japan. Increasing in number every year are private establishments, which tend to be far friendlier affairs than those run by the government or Japan Youth Hostels (JYH; jyh.or.jp), which is affiliated to Hostelling International (HI; hihostels.com). The JYH hostels generally impose a six-night maximum stay, evening curfews and a raft of regulations. Membership cards are not required at government or private hostels, but all JYH ask for a current Youth Hostel card. Non-members have to buy a “welcome stamp” (¥600) each time they stay at a JYH hostel; six stamps within a twelve-month period entitles you to the Hostelling International card. JNTO offices abroad and around Japan stock a free map that gives contact details of all JYH hostels.

The average price of hostel accommodation ranges from around ¥2000 per person for a dorm bed (or even less in Okinawa) up to ¥9000 for a private room; this means a private room in a hostel may work out more expensive than staying at a minshuku, or a night at a business hotel. Rates at some hostels increase during peak holiday periods.

It’s essential to make reservations well in advance for the big-city hostels and during school vacations: namely, New Year, March, around Golden Week (late April to mid-May), and in July and August. At other times, it’s a good idea to book ahead, since hostels in prime tourist spots are always busy; some close for a day or two in the off season, and others for the whole winter. If you want an evening meal, you also need to let them know a day in advance. Hostel accommodation normally consists of either dormitory bunks or shared Japanese-style tatami rooms, with communal bathrooms and dining areas. An increasing number also have private or family rooms, but these tend to fill up quickly. Bedding is provided. The majority of hostels have laundry facilities and internet access; wi-fi is usually a given and almost always free.

At the JYH and government hostels, optional meals are sometimes offered; these vary in quality, though can be pretty good value. Dinner will generally be Japanese-style, while breakfast frequently includes bread, jam and coffee, sometimes as part of a buffet. Some hostels have a basic kitchen.

Check-in is generally between 3pm and 8pm; you sometimes have to vacate the building during the day (usually by 10am at JYH hostels).

Camping

There are thousands of campsites (kyampu-jō) scattered throughout Japan, with prices ranging from nothing up to ¥5000 or more to pitch a tent. In some places, you’ll also pay an entry fee of a few hundred yen per person, plus charges for water and cooking gas. In general, facilities are pretty basic compared with American or European sites; many have no hot water, for example, and the camp shop may stock nothing but Pot-Noodles. Most sites only open during the summer months, when they’re packed out with students and school parties.

JNTO publishes lists of selected campsites, or ask at local tourist offices. If you haven’t got your own tent, you can often hire everything on site or rent simple cabins from around ¥2500 – check before you get there. The best sites are in national parks and can be both time-consuming and costly to get to unless you have your own transport. Sleeping rough in national parks is banned, but elsewhere in the countryside camping wild is tolerated. However, it’s advisable to choose an inconspicuous spot – don’t put your tent up till dusk and leave early in the morning. Pitch too early or wake too late, and don’t be too surprised if worried locals alert the local police to your presence (though as long as you’ve got your passport handy, you should be fine).

Mountain huts

In the main hiking areas, you’ll find a good network of mountain huts (yama-goya). These range from basic shelters to much fancier places with wardens and meals. Huts get pretty crowded in summer and during student holidays; count on at least ¥5000 per head, including two meals. Many places will also provide a picnic lunch. You can get information about mountain huts from local tourist offices.

Long-term accommodation

There’s plenty of long-term rental accommodation available in Japan, making it a relatively easy and affordable country in which to set up home.

Newcomers who arrive without a job, or who are not on some sort of expat package that includes accommodation, usually start off in what’s known as a gaijin house (foreigner house). Located in Tokyo, Kyoto and other cities with large foreign populations, these are shared apartments with a communal kitchen and bathroom, ranging from total fleapits to the almost luxurious. They’re usually rented by the month, though if there’s space, weekly or even nightly rates may be available. You’ll find gaijin houses advertised in the English-language press, or simply ask around. Monthly rates for a shared apartment in Tokyo start at ¥30,000–40,000 per person if you share a room, and ¥50,000–60,000 for your own room. A deposit may also be required.

The alternative is a private apartment. These are usually rented out by real estate companies, though you’ll also find places advertised in the media. Unfortunately, some landlords simply refuse to rent to non-Japanese. Some rental agencies specialize in dealing with foreigners, or you could ask a Japanese friend or colleague to act as an intermediary. When you’ve found a place, be prepared to pay a deposit of one to two months’ rent in addition to the first month’s rent, key money (usually one or two months’ non-refundable rent when you move in) and a month’s rent in commission to the agent. You may also be asked to provide information about your financial situation and find someone – generally a Japanese national – to act as a guarantor. The basic monthly rental in Tokyo starts at ¥50,000–60,000 per month for a one-room box, and upwards of ¥100,000 for somewhere more comfortable with a separate kitchen and bathroom.

JAPAN’S CHEAPEST SLEEPS

The cheapest places to stay in Japan are not sleazy love motels, capsule hotel pods or (Okinawa aside) youth hostel dormitories. No, to really hit the bottom of the barrel you have to head to an internet café, where you can get a night’s sleep for under ¥1500. Those thinking that such places cannot count as accommodation would be wrong – while most have “regular” computer terminals lining open corridors, many have terminals in tiny, walled-off cubicles, often with a choice between a soft, reclinable chair and a cushioned floor (the latter being particularly comfortable). Many also have shower facilities (usually ¥100), snack counters, and free soft-drink vending machines. Indeed, many Japanese actually live semi-permanently in these places, if they can’t afford rent elsewhere – they’re known locally as the “cyber-homeless”. Drawbacks include occasional loud snorers, and neighbouring couples making the most of some rare, if imperfect, privacy. You’ll find such establishments in almost any large city in Japan; at some, you’ll need to pay a one-off membership fee of around ¥300.

< Back to Basics

Food and drink

One of the great pleasures of a trip to Japan is exploring the full and exotic range of Japanese food and drink. While dishes such as sushi and tempura are common the world over these days, there are hundreds of other types of local cuisine that may provide new and delicious discoveries. Regional specialities abound, and many locals seemingly holiday to different parts of the country for culinary reasons alone. It’s hard to blame them, for many Japanese recipes embody a subtlety of flavour and texture rarely found in other cuisines, and the presentation is often so exquisite that it feels an insult to the chef to eat what has been so painstakingly crafted.

Picking at delicate morsels with chopsticks is only one small part of the dining experience. It’s far more common to find Japanese tucking into robust and cheap dishes such as hearty bowls of ramen noodles or the comforting concoction karē raisu (curry rice) as well as burgers and fried chicken from ubiquitous Western-style fast-food outlets. All the major cities have an extensive range of restaurants serving Western and other Asian dishes, with Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka in particular being major destinations for foodies.

Eating out needn’t cost the earth. Lunch is always the best-value meal of the day, with many restaurants – even some posh ones – offering set menus for around ¥1000. If you fuel up well for lunch, a cheap bowl of noodles for dinner could carry you through the night.

Do note that surprisingly few places to eat and drink offer wi-fi.

Meals

Breakfast is generally served from around 7am to 9am at most hotels, ryokan and minshuku. At the top end and mid-range places you’ll generally have a choice between a Western-style breakfast or a traditional meal consisting of miso soup, grilled fish, pickles and rice; at the cheaper minshuku and ryokan, only a Japanese-style meal will be available. Western-style breakfasts, when available, sometimes resemble what you might eat at home, but most commonly involve wedges of thick white tasteless bread and some form of eggs and salad. Most cafés also have a “morning-service” menu which means kōhii and tōsuto (coffee and toast).

Restaurants generally open for lunch around 11.30am and finish serving at 2pm. Lacklustre sandwiches are best passed over in favour of a full meal at a restaurant; set menus (called teishoku) are always on offer and usually cost ¥600–1200 for a couple of courses, often with a drink.

Teishoku are sometimes available at night, when you may also come across course menus (kōsu menyū), which involve a series of courses and are priced according to the number of courses and quality of ingredients used. At any time of day, you can snack in stand-up noodle bars – often found around train stations – and from revolving conveyor belts at cheap sushi shops.

Dinner, the main meal of the day, is typically served from 6pm to around 9pm; some restaurant chains, even in the countryside, stay open all night. In a traditional Japanese meal, you’ll usually be served all your courses at the same time, but at more formal places, rice and soup are always served last. You are most likely to finish your meal with a piece of seasonal fruit, such as melon, orange, persimmon or nashi (a crisp type of pear), or an ice cream (if it’s green, it will be flavoured with matcha tea).

At tea ceremonies, small, intensely sweet wagashi are served – these prettily decorated sweetmeats are usually made of pounded rice, red azuki beans or chestnuts. Wagashi can also be bought from specialist shops and department stores and make lovely gifts.

Where to eat

A shokudō is a kind of canteen that serves a range of traditional and generally inexpensive dishes. Usually found near train and subway stations and in busy shopping districts, shokudō can be identified by the displays of plastic meals in their windows. Other restaurants (resutoran) usually serve just one type of food – for example sushi-ya serve sushi and sashimi, and yakitori-ya serve yakitori – or specialize in a particular style of cooking, such as kaiseki (haute cuisine) or teppanyaki, where food is prepared on a steel griddle, either by diners themselves or a chef.

YOKOCHŌ

A trip to Japan is not complete without a night out at a yokochō. These market-style areas often focus on food and drink, and many are packed with dozens upon dozens of minuscule eateries. English-language menus and signage are rare at these places, but many places specialize in a particular type of food, making selection and ordering a simple exercise in walking around and pointing. Almost all stalls will sell beer, as well as sake.

All over Japan, but particularly in city suburbs, you’ll find bright and breezy family restaurants, such as Royal Host and Jonathan’s, American-style operations specifically geared to family dining and serving Western and Japanese dishes. The food at these places can be on the bland side, but is invariably keenly priced. They also have menus illustrated with photographs to make ordering easy. If you can’t decide what to eat, head for the restaurant floors of major department stores, where you’ll find a collection of Japanese and Western operations, often outlets of reputable local restaurants. Many will have plastic food displays in their front windows and daily special menus.

Western and other ethnic food restaurants proliferate in the cities, and it’s seldom a problem finding popular foreign cuisines such as Italian (Itaria-ryōri), French (Furansu-ryōri), Korean (Kankoku-ryōri), Chinese (Chūgoku-ryōri or Chūka-ryōri) or Thai (Tai-ryōri) food. However, the recipes are often adapted to suit Japanese tastes, which can mean less spicy dishes than you may be used to.

Coffee shops (kissaten) are something of an institution in Japan, often designed to act as a lounge or business meeting place for patrons starved of space at home or the office. Others have weird designs or specialize in certain things, such as jazz or comic books. In such places, a speciality coffee or tea will usually set you back ¥500 or more. There are also plenty of cheap and cheerful operations like Doutor and Starbucks, serving drinks and snacks at reasonable prices, as well as a recent glut of more characterful hipster-style operations; search these places out for a cheap breakfast or a quick bite.

Finally, for something different, check out Nagomi Visit ( www.nagomivisit.com), a site that links guests to hosts who will pick you up from the station and take you back to their home for lunch or dinner.

Where to drink

The liveliest places to drink are izakaya, pub-type restaurants which also serve an extensive menu of mainly small dishes. Traditional izakaya are rather rustic-looking, although in the cities you’ll come across more modern, trendy operations aimed at the youth market. One type of traditional izakaya is the robatayaki, which serves charcoal-grilled food. Most izakaya open around 6pm and shut down around midnight, if not later; there’ll usually be a cover charge of ¥200–500 per person. From mid-June to late August, outdoor beer gardens – some attached to existing restaurants and izakaya, other stand-alone operations – flourish across Japan’s main cities and towns; look out for the fairy lights on the roofs of buildings, or in street-level gardens and plazas.

Regular bars, or nomiya, often consist of little more than a short counter and a table, and are run by a mama-san if female, or papa-san or master if male. Prices at most nomiya tend to be high, and although you’re less likely to be ripped off if you speak some Japanese, it’s no guarantee. All such bars operate a bottle keep system for regulars to stash a bottle of drink with their name on it behind the bar. It’s generally best to go to such bars with a regular, since they tend to operate like mini-clubs, with non-regulars being given the cold shoulder. Nomiya stay open to the early hours, provided there are customers. A variation on the nomiya is the tachinomiya, or standing bar, which are usually cheaper and more casual. Some specialize in selling premium wines or sake, and they often serve good food alongside the drinks.

Some bars also have cover charges (for which you’ll usually get some small snack with your drink), although there’s plenty of choice among those that don’t, so always check before buying your drink. Bars specializing in karaoke aren’t difficult to spot; if you decide to join in, there’s usually a small fee to pay and songs with English lyrics to choose from. Some places also do all-you-can-drink specials, which usually work out cheaper if you’ll be having three or more drinks; two hours of singing and drinking will set you back ¥2000–3000 per head.

Ordering and etiquette

On walking into most restaurants in Japan, you’ll be greeted by the word irasshaimase (“welcome”). Indicate with your fingers how many places are needed (the waiter or waitress will usually fulfil this particular unwritten Japanese rule on your behalf, if you’re tardy in doing so yourself). After being seated you’ll be handed an oshibori, a damp, folded hand towel, usually steaming hot, but sometimes offered refreshingly cold in summer. A chilled glass of water (mizu) will also usually be brought automatically.

BENTŌ: THE JAPANESE PACKED LUNCH

Every day, millions of Japanese trot off to school or work with a bentō stashed in their satchel or briefcase. Bentō are boxed lunches which are either made at home or bought from shops all over Japan. Traditional bentō include rice, pickles, grilled fish or meat and vegetables. There are thousands of permutations depending on the season and the location in Japan, with some of the best being available from department stores, where there’s always a model or picture to show you what’s inside the box. At their most elaborate, in classy restaurants, bentō come in beautiful multi-layered lacquered boxes, each compartment containing some exquisite culinary creation. Among housewives, it’s become something of a competitive sport and art form to create fun designs out of the bentō ingredients for their children’s lunch. Empty bentō boxes in a huge range of designs are sold in the household section of department stores and make lovely souvenirs.

To help you decipher the menu, there’s a basic glossary of essential words and phrases at the end of this book. It’s always worth asking if an English menu is available. If a restaurant has a plastic food window display or picture menu, you can use them to point out what you want to your waiter or waitress. If all else fails, look round at what your fellow diners are eating and point out what you fancy. Remember that the teishoku (set meal) or kōsu (course) meals offer the best value. The word Baikingu (written in katakana and standing for “Viking”) means a help-yourself buffet.

Don’t stick chopsticks (hashi) upright in your rice – though it is an allusion to death, for most Japanese it simply just looks wrong. Also, never cross your chopsticks when you put them on the table, or use them to point at things. When it comes to eating soupy noodles, it’s almost mandatory to slurp them up noisily (it’s supposed to mean that you’re enjoying your food, and Japanese rules of culinary decorum mean that you’re obliged to find everything delicious); it’s also fine to bring the bowl to your lips and drink directly from it.

When you want the bill, say okanjō o kudasai; the usual form is to pay at the till on the way out, not by leaving money on the table. There’s no need to leave a tip, but it’s polite to say gochisō-sama deshita (“That was delicious!”) to the waiter or chef. Only the most upmarket Western restaurants and top hotels will add a service charge (typically ten percent).

Sushi, sashimi and seafood

Many non-Japanese falsely assume that all sushi is fish, but the name actually refers to the way the rice is prepared with vinegar, and you can also get sushi dishes with egg or vegetables. Fish and seafood are, of course, essential and traditional elements of Japanese cuisine, and range from the seaweed used in miso-shiru (soup) to the slices of tuna, salmon and squid laid across the slabs of sushi rice. Slices of raw fish and seafood on their own are called sashimi.

In a traditional sushi-ya (sushi restaurant), each plate is freshly made by a team of chefs working in full view of the customers. If you’re not sure of the different types to order, point at the trays on show in the glass chiller cabinets at the counter, or go for the nigiri-zushi mori-awase, six or seven different types of fish and seafood on fingers of sushi rice. Other types of sushi include maki-zushi, rolled in a sheet of crisp seaweed, and chirashi-zushi, a layer of rice topped with fish, vegetables and cooked egg.

While a meal at a reputable sushi-ya can hit ¥5000 (or even more at a high-class joint), there are still some excellent places serving lunch sets for ¥600 and up. At kaiten-zushi shops, where you choose whatever sushi dish you want from the continually replenished conveyor belt, the bill will depend upon how much you order: anything from ¥600–3000 per person. In kaiten-zushiya, plates are colour-coded according to how much they cost, and are totted up at the end for the total cost of the meal. If you can’t see what you want, you can ask the chefs to make it for you. Green tea is free, and you can usually order beer or sake.

To try fugu, or blowfish, go to a specialist fish restaurant, which can be easily identified by the picture or model of a balloon-like fish outside. Fugu’s reputation derives from its potential to be fatally poisonous rather than its bland, rubbery taste. The actual risk of dropping dead at the counter is virtually nil, at least from fugu poisoning – you’re more likely to keel over at the bill, which (cheaper, farmed fugu apart) will be in the ¥10,000 per-person bracket. Fugu is often served as part of a set-course menu including sashimi slivers, and a stew made from other parts of the fish served with rice.

A more affordable and tasty seafood speciality is unagi, or eel, typically basted with a thick sauce of soy and sake, sizzled over charcoal and served on a bed of rice. This dish is particularly popular in summer, when it’s believed to provide strength in the face of sweltering heat.

Noodles

The three main types of noodle are soba, udon and ramen.

Soba are thin noodles made of brown buckwheat flour. If the noodles are green, they’ve been made with green-tea powder. There are two main styles of serving soba: hot and cold. It comes in a clear broth, often with added ingredients such as tofu, vegetables and chicken. Cold noodles piled on a bamboo-screen bed, with a cold sauce for dipping (which can be flavoured with chopped spring onions, seaweed flakes and wasabi – grated green horseradish paste), are called zaru-soba or mori-soba. In more traditional restaurants, you’ll also be served a flask of the hot water (soba-yu) to cook the noodles, which is added to the dipping sauce to make a soup drink once you’ve finished the soba.

In most soba restaurants, udon will also be on the menu. These chunkier noodles are made with plain wheat flour and are served in the same hot or cold styles as soba. In yakisoba and yakiudon dishes the noodles are fried, often in a thick soy sauce, along with seaweed flakes, meat and vegetables.

Ramen, or yellow wheat-flour noodles, were originally imported from China but have now become part and parcel of Japanese cuisine. They’re usually served in big bowls in a steaming oily soup, which typically comes in three varieties: miso (flavoured with fermented bean paste), shio (a salty soup) or shōyu (a broth made with soy sauce). The dish is often finished off with a range of garnishes, including seaweed, bamboo shoots, pink and white swirls of fish paste, and pork slices. You can usually spice it up with condiments such as minced garlic or a red pepper mixture at your table. Wherever you eat ramen, you can also usually get gyōza, fried half-moon-shaped dumplings filled with pork or seafood, to accompany them.

Rice dishes

A traditional meal isn’t considered finished until a bowl of rice has been eaten. This Japanese staple also forms the basis of the alcoholic drink sake, as well as mochi, a chewy dough made from pounded glutinous rice (usually prepared and eaten during festivals such as New Year).

Rice is an integral part of several cheap snack-type dishes. Onigiri are palm-sized triangles of rice with a filling of soy, tuna, salmon roe, or sour umeboshi (pickled plum), all wrapped up in a sheet of crisp nori (seaweed). They can be bought at convenience stores for ¥100–150 each, and are ingeniously packaged so that the nori stays crisp until the onigiri is unwrapped. Donburi is a bowl of rice with various toppings, such as chicken and egg (oyako-don, literally “parent and child”), strips of stewed beef (gyū-don) or katsu-don, which come with a tonkatsu (see below) pork cutlet.

A perennially popular Japanese comfort food is curry rice (karē raisu in rōmaji). Only mildly spicy, this bears little relation to the Indian dish: what goes into the sludgy brown sauce that makes up the curry is a mystery, and you’ll probably search in vain for evidence of any beef or chicken in the so-called biifu karē and chikin karē.

Most cities now also have South Asian restaurants with actual South Asian staff; you can often get a good curry and naan to go for just ¥500, which is up there with the best value Japan has to offer.

Meat dishes

Meat is an uncommon part of traditional Japanese cuisine, but in the last century dishes using beef, pork and chicken have become a major part of the national diet. Burger outlets are ubiquitous, and expensive steak restaurants, serving up dishes like sukiyaki (thin beef slices cooked in a soy, sugar and sake broth) and shabu-shabu (beef and vegetable slices cooked at the table in a light broth and dipped in various sauces), are popular treats.

KAISEKI-RYŌRI : JAPANESE HAUTE CUISINE

Japan’s finest style of cooking, kaiseki-ryōri, comprises a series of small, carefully balanced and expertly presented dishes. Described by renowned Kyoto chef Murata Yoshihiro as “eating the seasons”, this style of cooking began as an accompaniment to the tea ceremony and still retains the meticulous design of that elegant ritual. At the best kaiseki-ryōri restaurants, the atmosphere of the room in which the meal is served is just as important as the food, which will invariably reflect the best of the season’s produce; you’ll sit on tatami, a scroll decorated with calligraphy will hang in the tokonoma (alcove) and a waitress in kimono will serve each course on beautiful china and lacquerware. For such a sublime experience you should expect to pay ¥10,000 or more for dinner, although a lunchtime kaiseki bentō is a more affordable option, typically costing around ¥5000.

THE MODERN WAY OF FOOD

Flick through the channels of your TV in Japan, and it won’t be long before you hit your first food programme. As well as showing off the delights of Japanese cuisine, these can be rather hilarious to watch, for they all follow the same tried-and-trusted format. First of all, footage will be shown of the food being prepared, to multiple coos from the presenters (and canned ones from the studio audience). Once the food is ready, the camera zooms in on a morsel being slowly teased apart (more cooing), and then on it being held aloft with a shaky pair of chopsticks (yet more cooing). Then comes the first taste; the camera zooms in on the recipient who, predictably self-conscious, is left with only two options: oishii and umai, which both mean “delicious!”.

Nobody now knows if this is life imitating art or the other way around, but Japanese almost always do this with the first bite of a meal. It’ll be expected of you, too, and with sudden silence and all eyes on you there’s only one thing to say… “oishii!”

Like sukiyaki and shabu-shabu, nabe (the name refers to the cooking pot) stews are prepared at the table over a gas or charcoal burner by diners who throw a range of raw ingredients (meat or fish along with vegetables) into the pot to cook. As things cook, they’re fished out, and the last thing to be immersed is usually some type of noodle. Chanko-nabe is the famous chuck-it-all-in stew used to beef up sumo wrestlers.

Other popular meat dishes include tonkatsu, breadcrumb-covered slabs of pork, crisply fried and usually served on a bed of shredded cabbage with a brown, semi-sweet sauce; and yakitori, delicious skewers of grilled chicken (and sometimes other meats and vegetables). At the cheapest yakitori-ya, you’ll pay for each skewer individually, typically ¥100–150 per stick. Kushiage is a combination of tonkatsu and yakitori dishes, where skewers of meat, seafood and vegetables are coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried.

Vegetarian dishes

Despite being the home of macrobiotic cooking, vegetarianism isn’t a widely practised or fully understood concept in Japan. You might ask for a vegetarian (saishoku) dish in a restaurant and still be served something with meat or fish in it. If you’re a committed vegetarian, things to watch out for include dashi stock, which contains bonito (dried tuna), and omelettes, which may contain chicken stock. To get a truly vegetarian meal, you will have to be patient and prepared to spell out exactly what you do and do not eat when you order. Vege-Navi ( vege-navi.jp) lists many vegetarian, vegan and macrobiotic options across the country, while the international Happy Cow app and site ( happycow.net) have healthy selections in most major Japanese cities.

If you’re willing to turn a blind eye to occasionally eating meat, fish or animal fats by mistake, then tuck in because Japan has bequeathed some marvellous vegetarian foods to the world. Top of the list is tofu, compacted cakes of soya-bean curd, which comes in two main varieties, momengoshi-dōfu (cotton tofu), so-called because of its fluffy texture, and the smoother, more fragile kinugoshi-dōfu (silk tofu). Buddhist cuisine, shōjin-ryōri, concocts whole menus based around different types of tofu dishes; although they can be expensive, it’s worth searching out the specialist restaurants serving this type of food, particularly in major temple cities, such as Kyoto, Nara and Nagano. Note, though, that the most popular tofu dish you’ll come across in restaurants – hiya yakko, a small slab of chilled tofu topped with grated ginger, spring onions and soy sauce – is usually sprinkled with bonito flakes.

Miso (fermented bean paste) is another crucial ingredient of Japanese cooking, used in virtually every meal, if only in the soup miso-shiru. It often serves as a flavouring in vegetable dishes, and comes in two main varieties: the light shiro-miso, and the darker, stronger-tasting aka-miso.

Most Japanese assume that no foreigners are able to stomach the nation’s favourite breakfast snack: nattō, a sticky, stringy treat made with fermented beans. Its strong taste, pungent aroma and unfamiliar texture can be off-putting to Western palates, and many young Japanese hate the stuff; it’s worth trying at least once, though, and is usually served in little tubs at breakfast, to be mixed with mustard and soy sauce and eaten with rice. Hawaiian Japanese eat it with raw tuna – you can do likewise by picking the components up at any supermarket, then mixing them together.

Other Japanese dishes

Said to have been introduced to Japan in the sixteenth century by Portuguese traders, tempura are lightly battered pieces of seafood and vegetables. Tempura are dipped in a bowl of light sauce (ten-tsuyu) mixed with grated daikon radish and sometimes ginger. At specialist tempura restaurants, you’ll generally order the teishoku set meal, which includes whole prawns, squid, aubergines, mushrooms and the aromatic leaf shiso.

Oden is a warming dish, usually served in winter but available at other times too – it tastes much more delicious than it looks. Large chunks of food, usually on skewers, are simmered in a thin broth, and often served from portable carts (yatai) on street corners or in convenience stores from beside the till. The main ingredients are blocks of tofu, daikon (a giant radish), konnyaku (a hard jelly made from a root vegetable), konbu (seaweed), hard-boiled eggs and fish cakes. All are best eaten with a smear of fiery English-style mustard.

Japan’s equivalent of the pizza is okonomiyaki, a fun, cheap meal that you can often assemble yourself. A pancake batter is used to bind shredded cabbage and other vegetables with either seafood or meat. If it’s a DIY restaurant, you’ll mix the individual ingredients and cook them on a griddle in the middle of the table. Otherwise, you can sit at the kitchen counter watching the chefs at work. Once cooked, okonomiyaki is coated in a sweet brown sauce and/or mayonnaise and dusted off with dried seaweed and flakes of bonito, which twist and curl in the rising heat. At most okonomiyaki restaurants, you can also get fried noodles (yakisoba). In addition, okonomiyaki, along with its near-cousin takoyaki (battered balls of octopus), are often served from yatai carts at street festivals.

Authentic Western restaurants are now commonplace across Japan, but there is also a hybrid style of cooking known as yōshoku (“Western food”), which developed during the Meiji era early in the twentieth century. Often served in shokudō, yōshoku dishes include omelettes with rice (omu-raisu), deep-fried potato croquettes (korokke) and hamburger steaks (hanbāgu) doused in a thick sauce. The contemporary version of yōshoku is mukokuseki or “no-nationality” cuisine, a mishmash of world cooking styles usually found in izakaya.

DINING ON THE CHEAP

Japan isn’t exactly paradise for budget travellers, but as far as food goes, there are some very good ways to stretch your yen. Many head straight to chain convenience stores such as 7-Eleven, AM/PM and Lawson, which sell snacks and drinks round the clock. Not quite as numerous, but found in every city district, supermarkets sell regular backpacker staples as well as super-cheap fresh noodles; note that in the hours before closing (9–11pm), they tend to lop off up to half of the price of sushi and other bentō sets.

If you want to eat out, try a standing noodle bar; a bowl of soba or udon will cost from ¥250, though it can be tricky to operate the Japanese-only ticket machines. However, the real value is to be had at local fast-food chains, almost all of which supply English-language menus. All of the following can be found several times over in every single city; just ask around.

CoCo Ichiban-ya ココ壱番屋 ichibanya.co.jp. A quirky curry chain which allows you to piece together your meal. First, choose the type of stock you desire, then the amount of rice you want (up to a mighty 900g), then your desired level of spice (level one barely registers a hit; level ten provides a veritable spice-gasm). Then comes the fun add-your-ingredients bit: choices include beef, okra, scrambled egg, cheese, tonkatsu, nattō (see above) and a whole lot more. It’ll end up costing ¥600–1100. Daily 8am–midnight, often later.

Matsuya 松屋 www.matsuyafoods.co.jp. Fronted by yellow, Japanese-only signs with red and blue blobs on them, this chain specializes in cheap curry (from ¥330) and gyūdon (beef on rice, ¥380). They chuck in a steaming-hot bowl of miso soup with whatever you order. Daily 24hr.

Saizeriya サイゼリヤ www.saizeriya.co.jp. Budget Italian food, often surprisingly good; their tasty doria (meaty rice gratin) will fill a hole for ¥299, pasta dishes and small pizzas can be had from ¥399, or have a fried burger-and-egg set for ¥399. The wine prices are also ridiculous – ¥100 per glass of their house red or white, or an astonishingly cheap ¥1100 for a massive, 1.5-litre bottle. Daily 8am–midnight, often later.

Yoshinoya 吉野屋 www.yoshinoya.com. You can’t miss the bright orange signs marking branches of the nation’s favourite fast-food chain, famed for its cheap, tasty bowls of gyūdon (beef on rice) from just ¥380. When they started reselling this dish after sales were choked off by a BSE scare there was a 1.5km-long queue outside their main Shinjuku branch. Daily 24hr.

Drinks

The Japanese are enthusiastic social drinkers. It’s not uncommon to see totally inebriated people slumped in the street, though on the whole drunkenness rarely leads to violence.

If you want a non-alcoholic drink, you’ll never be far from a coffee shop (kissaten) or a jidō hambaiki (vending machine), where you can get a vast range of canned drinks, both hot and cold; note that canned coffee, and even some of the tea, is often very sweet. Soft drinks from machines typically cost ¥120 and up; hot drinks are identified by a red stripe under the display, cold drinks by a blue one. Vending machines selling beer, sake and other alcoholic drinks are rare these days; those that still exist require a Japanese ID card to function, and as such are only of use to foreigners with good powers of persuasion. Most 24-hour convenience stores sell alcohol around the clock.

Sake

Legend has it that the ancient deities brewed Japan’s most famous alcoholic beverage – sake, also known as nihonshu – from the first rice of the new year. Although often referred to as rice wine, the drink, which comes in thousands of different brands, is actually brewed, and as such more closely related to beer (which long ago surpassed sake as Japan’s most popular alcoholic drink).

Made either in sweet (amakuchi) or dry (karakuchi) varieties, sake is graded as tokkyū (superior), ikkyū (first) and nikyū (second), although this is mainly for tax purposes; if you’re after the best quality, connoisseurs recommend going for ginjō-zukuri (or ginjō-zō), the most expensive and rare of the junmai-shu pure rice sake. Some types of sake are cloudier and less refined than others, and there’s also the very sweet, milky and usually non-alcoholic amazake, often served at temple festivals and at shrines over New Year.

In restaurants and izakaya you’ll be served sake in a small flask (tokkuri) so you can pour your own serving or share it with someone else. You will also be given the choice of drinking your sake warm (atsukan) or cold (reishu). The latter is usually the preferred way to enable you to taste the wine’s complex flavours properly; never drink premium sake warm. When served cold, sake is sometimes presented and drunk out of a small wooden box (masu) with a smidgen of salt on the rim to counter the slightly sweet taste. Glasses are traditionally filled right to the brim and are sometimes placed on a saucer or in a masu to catch any overflow; they’re generally small servings because, with an alcohol content of fifteen percent or more, sake is a strong drink – and it goes to your head even more quickly if drunk warm. For more on sake, check out sake-world.com.

Beer

American brewer William Copeland set up Japan’s first brewery in Yokohama in 1870 to serve fellow expats streaming into the country in the wake of the Meiji Restoration. Back then the Japanese had to be bribed to drink beer, but these days they need no such encouragement, knocking back a whopping 5.5 billion litres of the stuff a year – almost 60 litres per adult. Copeland’s brewery eventually became Kirin, now one of Japan’s big four brewers along with Asahi, Sapporo and Suntory. All turn out a range of lagers and dark beers, as well as low-malt beers called happōshu, and no-malt varieties called dai-san-no-biiru, which are popular because of their lower price (the higher the malt content, the higher the government tax), even if they generally taste insipid. Some of the standard cans and bottles are design classics, among them Kirin Ichiban, Asahi Super Dry and a couple of the Sapporo beers; look out seasonal additions to the designs, featuring things like snowflakes, red leaves or sakura flowers.

Standard-size cans of beer cost around ¥200 from a shop or vending machine, while bottles (bin-biiru) served in restaurants and bars usually start at ¥500. Draught beer (nama-biiru) is often available and, in beer halls, will be served in a jokki (mug-like glass), which comes in three different sizes: dai (big), chū (medium) and shō (small).

DRINKING ETIQUETTE

If you’re out drinking with Japanese friends, always pour your colleagues’ drinks, but never your own; they’ll take care of that. In fact, you’ll find your glass being topped up after every couple of sips. The usual way to make a toast in Japanese is “kampai”. It’s fine to get blind drunk and misbehave with your colleagues at night, but it’s very bad form to talk about it in the cold light of day.

In many bars, you’ll be served a small snack or a plate of nuts (otōshi) with your first drink, whether you’ve asked for it or not; this typically accounts for a cover charge being added to the bill.

THE WAY OF TEA

Tea was introduced to Japan from China in the ninth century and was popularized by Zen Buddhist monks, who appreciated its caffeine kick during their long meditation sessions. Gradually, tea-drinking developed into a formal ritual known as cha-no-yu, or the “way of tea”, whose purpose is to heighten the senses within a contemplative atmosphere. The most important aspect of the tea ceremony is the etiquette with which it is performed. Central to this is the selfless manner in which the host serves the tea and the humble manner in which the guests accept it.

The spirit of wabi, sometimes described as “rustic simplicity”, pervades the Japanese tea ceremony. The traditional teahouse is positioned in a suitably understated garden, and naturalness is emphasized in all aspects of its architecture: in the unpainted wooden surfaces, the thatched roof, tatami-covered floors and the sliding-screen doors (fusuma) which open directly onto the garden. Colour and ostentation are avoided. Instead, the alcove, or tokonoma, becomes the focal point for a single object of adornment, a simple flower arrangement or a seasonal hanging scroll.

The utensils themselves also contribute to the mood of refined ritual. The roughcast tea bowls are admired for the accidental effects produced by the firing of the pottery, while the water containers, tea caddies and bamboo ladles and whisks are prized for their rustic simplicity. The guiding light behind it all was the great tea-master Sen no Rikyū (1521–91), whose “worship of the imperfect” has had an indelible influence on Japanese aesthetics.

Having set the tone with the choice of implements and ornamentation, the host whisks powdered green tea (matcha) into a thick, frothy brew and presents it to each guest in turn. They take the bowl in both hands, turn it clockwise (so the decoration on the front of the bowl is facing away) and drink it down in three slow sips. It’s then customary to admire the bowl while nibbling on a dainty sweetmeat (wagashi), which counteracts the tea’s bitter taste.

Craft beer is now a huge thing in Japan, and every city will have at least a smattering of microbreweries, as well as bars selling a selection of brews from around Japan; many craft beers have way more character than found in the products of the big four, but prices are relatively expensive, with a large glass usually costing ¥700–1000. Recommendations for brewpubs have been given throughout the Guide, but for more information on the craft beer scene, check out the bilingual free magazine The Japan Beer Times ( japanbeertimes.com).

Shōchū

Generally with a higher alcohol content than sake, shōchū is a distilled white spirit made from rice, barley, sweet potato or several other ingredients. You can get an idea of its potency (usually 15–25 percent, though sometimes higher) by its nickname: white lightning. Shōchū is typically mixed with a soft drink into a sawā (as in lemon-sour) or a chūhai highball cocktail, although purists favour enjoying the drink straight, or with ice. There’s something of a shōchū boom currently going on in Japan, and the best brands are very drinkable and served like sake. The cheap stuff, however, can give you a wicked hangover.

Western alcoholic drinks

The Japanese love whisky, with the top brewers producing several respectable brands, often served with water and ice and called mizu-wari. In contrast, Japanese wine (wain), often very sweet, is a less successful product, at least to Western palates. Imported wines, however, are widely sold – not only are they becoming cheaper, but there is now a better choice and higher quality available in both shops and restaurants; most convenience stores sell bottles from ¥500.

Tea, coffee and soft drinks

Japanese cities are full of chain cafés – as often as not a Starbucks, although local operations such as Doutor, Tully’s and Caffè Veloce are also common. Despite the convenience of these places, one of Tokyo’s great joys is whiling away time in non-chain cafés (sometimes called kissaten), where the emphasis is on service and creating an interesting, relaxing, highly individual space – though one that’s, more often than not, full of cigarette smoke. Recently, a glut of hipster-style coffee joints has sprung up around the country – to Western travellers, they’ll feel a lot more familiar than the kissaten. Café menus are often in English as well as Japanese, but if that fails, choose between hot (hotto) or iced (aisu); if you want milk, ask for miruku-kōhii (milky coffee) or kafe-ore (café au lait).

You can also get regular black tea in all coffee shops, served either with milk, lemon or iced. If you want the slightly bitter Japanese green tea, ocha (“honourable tea”), you’ll usually have to go to a traditional teahouse. Green teas, which are always served in small cups and drunk plain, are graded according to their quality. Bancha, the cheapest, is for everyday drinking and, in its roasted form, is used to make the smoky hōjicha, or mixed with popped brown rice for the nutty genmaicha. Medium-grade sencha is served in upmarket restaurants or to favoured guests, while top-ranking, slightly sweet gyokuro (dewdrop) is reserved for special occasions. Other types of tea you may come across are ūron-cha (Oolong tea), a refreshing Chinese-style brew, and mugicha, made from roasted barley.

As well as the international brand-name soft drinks and fruit juices, there are many other soft drinks unique to Japan. You’ll probably want to try Pocari Sweat or Calpis for the name on the can alone.

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The media

For those who can read Japanese, there are scores of daily newspapers and hundreds of magazines covering almost every subject. In the big cities, English newspapers and magazines are readily available, while on TV and radio there are some programmes presented in English or with an alternative English soundtrack, such as the main news bulletins on NHK. Throughout this Guide we list websites wherever useful (some will be in Japanese only).

Newspapers and magazines

Japan’s top paper, the Yomiuri Shimbun, sells almost nine million copies daily (combining its morning and evening editions), making it the most widely read newspaper in the world. Lagging behind by about one million copies a day is the Asahi Shimbun, seen as the intellectual’s paper, with the other three national dailies, the Mainichi Shimbun, the right-wing Sankei Shimbun and the business paper the Nihon Keizai Shimbun, also selling respectable numbers.

The English-language daily newspaper you’ll most commonly find at Tokyo’s newsstands is The Japan Times ( japantimes.co.jp). It has comprehensive coverage of national and international news, as well as occasionally interesting features, some culled from the world’s media; the online sumo coverage is good when there’s a tournament on. There’s also the Daily Yomiuri ( yomiuri.co.jp) newspaper, as well as English-language magazines including Time and The Economist.

The free monthly magazine Metropolis ( metropolisjapan.com) is packed with interesting features, reviews, and listings of film, music and other events, as is their website; the same can be said for Time Out ( timeout.com/tokyo), whose magazine comes out every three months. The twice-yearly publication KIE (Kateigahō International Edition; int.kateigaho.com) is a gorgeous, glossy magazine covering cultural matters, with many travel features and in-depth profiles of areas of Tokyo and other parts of Japan. Also worth a look is Tokyo Notice Board ( tokyonoticeboard.co.jp), a freesheet devoted almost entirely to classifieds.

Bookshops such as Kinokuniya and Maruzen stock extensive ranges of imported and local magazines. For those who are studying Japanese, or even just trying to pick up a bit of the language during your stay, the bilingual magazine Hiragana Times is good.

Television

Funded much like Britain’s BBC, the state broadcaster NHK ( nhk.or.jp) has two TV channels – the regular NHK, and NHK–Educational – as well as three satellite channels, and NHK World, an international channel which often veers towards propaganda. Many TV sets can access a bilingual soundtrack, and it’s thus possible to tune into English-language commentary for NHK’s nightly 7pm news; films and imported TV shows on both NHK and the commercial channels are also sometimes broadcast with an alternative English soundtrack. Digital, satellite and cable channels – not always available in hotels, even at the higher end – include BBC World, CNN and the regular entertainment channels.

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Festivals

Don’t miss attending a festival (matsuri) if one happens during your visit – it will be a highlight of your stay in Japan. The more important events are listed below.

Several non-native festivals have caught on in Japan, with a few adaptations for local tastes. Women give men gifts of chocolate on Valentine’s Day (February 14), while on White Day (March 14) men get their turn to give the object of their affection more chocolate (white, of course). Later on in the year, Pocky Day (November 11) is an even more overtly commercial day, even by Japanese standards – people give their loved ones boxes of Pocky, sweet breadsticks whose skinny nature vaguely resembles the date (eleven-eleven). Christmas is also an almost totally commercial event in Japan. Christmas Eve, rather than New Year, is the time to party and a big occasion for romance – you’ll be hard-pressed to find a table at any fancy restaurant or a room in the top hotels.

DATES IN JAPAN

According to the Japanese system of numbering years, which starts afresh with each change of emperor, 2019 was the first year of Reiwa, the official name for the reign of new emperor Naruhito. Upon his death (or abdication), the number will reset to 1 for the first year of his successor’s reign. This shouldn’t cause travellers too many problems, since the “regular” calendar is more visible, though prepare for some initially confusing dates on train passes, hotel receipts and the like.

It’s also important to note that Japanese dates run year-month-day – going from big to small, just like the time on your digital watch, it actually makes a lot of sense.

Festival and holiday calendar

Note that if any of the following public holidays fall on a Sunday, then the following Monday is also a holiday.

JANUARY

Ganjitsu (or Gantan) Jan 1. People all over the country gather at major shrines to honour the gods with the first shrine visit of the year (a practice known as hatsumōde). Public holiday.

Seijin-no-hi (Adults’ Day) Second Mon in Jan. Twenty-year-olds celebrate their entry into adulthood by visiting their local shrine. Many women dress in sumptuous kimono. Public holiday.

Yama-yaki Fourth Sat of Jan. The slopes of Wakakusa-yama, Nara, are set alight during a grass-burning ceremony.

FEBRUARY

Setsubun Feb 3 or 4. On the last day of winter by the lunar calendar, people scatter lucky beans round their homes and at shrines or temples to drive out evil and welcome in the year’s good luck. In Nara, the event is marked by a huge lantern festival on Feb 3.

Yuki Matsuri Early to mid-Feb. Sapporo’s famous snow festival features giant snow sculptures.

MARCH

Hina Matsuri (Doll Festival) March 3. Families with young girls display beautiful dolls (hina ningyō) representing the emperor, empress and their courtiers dressed in ancient costume. Department stores, hotels and museums often put on special displays at this time.

Cherry-blossom festivals Late March to early May. With the arrival of spring in late March, a pink tide of cherry blossom washes north from Kyūshū, travels up Honshū during the month of April and peters out in Hokkaidō in early May. There are cherry-blossom festivals, and the sake flows at blossom-viewing (hanami) parties.

APRIL

Hana Matsuri April 8. The Buddha’s birthday is celebrated at all temples with parades or quieter celebrations, during which a small statue of Buddha is sprinkled with sweet tea.

Takayama Matsuri April 14–15. Parade of ornate festival floats (yatai), some carrying mechanical marionettes.

Kamakura Matsuri Mid-April. Kamakura’s week-long festival includes traditional dances, costume parades and horseback archery.

MAY

Kodomo-no-hi (Children’s Day) May 5. The original Boys’ Day now includes all children, as families fly carp banners, symbolizing strength and perseverance, outside their homes. Public holiday.

Aoi Matsuri (Hollyhock Festival) May 15. Costume parade through the streets of Kyoto, with ceremonies to ward off storms and earthquakes.

Kanda Matsuri Mid-May. One of Tokyo’s top three matsuri, taking place in odd-numbered years at Kanda Myōjin, during which people in Heian-period costume escort eighty gilded mikoshi through the streets.

Tōshō-gū Grand Matsuri May 18. Nikkō’s most important festival, featuring a parade of over a thousand costumed participants and horseback archery to commemorate the burial of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1617. There’s a smaller-scale repeat performance on October 17.

Sanja Matsuri Third weekend in May. Tokyo’s most boisterous festival takes place in Asakusa. Over a hundred mikoshi are jostled through the streets, accompanied by lion dancers, geisha and musicians.

JUNE

Sannō Matsuri Mid-June. In even-numbered years the last of Tokyo’s big three matsuri (after Kanda and Sanja) takes place, focusing on colourful processions of mikoshi through Akasaka.

JULY

Gion Yamagasa July 1–15. Fukuoka’s main festival culminates in a 5km race, with participants carrying or pulling heavy mikoshi, while spectators douse them with water.

MUSIC FESTIVALS

Late July and August in Japan is the time forrock and popular music festivals. One of the best is the Earth Celebration on Sado-ga-shima, where the famed Kodō drummers collaborate with guests from the world music scene. If you want to catch up on the latest in Japanese rock and pop then schedule your visit to coincide with the most established event, as far as foreign bands is concerned, Fuji Rock ( fujirockfestival.com). This huge three-day event hosts a wide range of top-name acts covering musical genres from dance and electronica to jazz and blues, on multiple stages. It takes place at Naeba Ski Resort in Niigata prefecture, easily accessible from Tokyo via Shinkansen. It’s possible to visit for a day, camp or stay in the hotels that in winter cater to the ski crowd.

Attracting an audience of well over 100,000 and simpler to get to is Summer Sonic ( summersonic.com), a two-day event held in Chiba, just across the Edo-gawa from Tokyo. This festival showcases a good mix of both local and overseas bands and has both indoor and outdoor performances.

Rock in Japan ( rijfes.jp), focusing on domestic bands, is usually held in August at Hitachi Seaside Park, north of Tokyo in Ibaraki-ken (accessible from Ueno Station).

Tanabata Matsuri (Star Festival) July 7. According to legend, the only day in the year when the astral lovers, Vega and Altair, can meet across the Milky Way. Poems and prayers are hung on bamboo poles outside houses.

Gion Matsuri July 17. Kyoto’s month-long festival focuses around a parade of huge floats hung with rich silks and paper lanterns.

Hanabi Taikai Last Sat in July. The most spectacular of Japan’s many summer firework displays takes place in Tokyo, on the Sumida River near Asakusa. Some cities also hold displays in early Aug.

AUGUST

Nebuta and Neputa Matsuri Aug 1–7. Aomori and Hirosaki hold competing summer festivals, with parades of illuminated paper-covered figures.

Tanabata Matsuri Aug 6–8. Sendai’s famous Star Festival is held a month after everyone else, so the lovers get another chance.

Obon (Festival of Souls) Aug 13–15, or July 13–15 in some areas. Families gather around the ancestral graves to welcome back the spirits of the dead and honour them with special Bon-Odori dances on the final night.

Awa Odori Aug 12–15. The most famous Bonodori takes place in Tokushima, when up to eighty thousand dancers take to the streets.

SEPTEMBER

Yabusame Sept 16. This festival, featuring spectacular displays of horseback archery (yabusame) by riders in samurai armour, takes place at Tsurugaoka Hachimangū shrine in Kamakura.

OCTOBER

Kunchi Matsuri Oct 7–9. Shinto rites mingle with Chinese- and European-inspired festivities to create Nagasaki’s premier celebration, incorporating dragon dances and floats in the shape of Chinese and Dutch ships.

Kawagoe Grand Matsuri Third Sat & Sun in Oct. One of the liveliest festivals in the Tokyo area, involving some 25 ornate floats and hundreds of costumed revellers.

Jidai Matsuri Oct 22. Kyoto’s famous, if rather sedate, costume parade vies with the more exciting Kurama-no-Himatsuri, a night-time fire festival which takes place in a village near Kyoto.

NOVEMBER

Shichi-go-san Nov 15. Children aged 3, 5 and 7 don traditional garb to visit their local shrine.

DECEMBER

Ōmisoka Dec 31. Just before midnight on the last day of the year, temple bells ring out 108 times (the number of human frailties according to Buddhist thinking).

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Sports and outdoor activities

In 1964, Tokyo became the first Asian city to host the Olympic Games, and with the 2020 edition it achieved the rare honour of hosting the event twice. It is even the first country in Asia to host the Rugby World Cup (in 2019). These events hint at a surprisingly sporty scene in a country that most outsiders might associate more closely with academic performance than with athletic endeavour. Big believers in team spirit, the Japanese embrace many sports with almost religious fervour.

Spectator sports

Baseball, football and even mixed martial arts are all far more popular than home-grown sumo. Martial arts, such as aikido, judo and karate, all traditionally associated with Japan, have a much lower profile than you might expect.

Baseball

Baseball first came to Japan in the 1870s, but it wasn’t until 1934 that the first professional teams were formed. Now Japan is yakyū (baseball) crazy, and if you’re in the country from April to the end of October, during the baseball season, consider watching a professional match. Even if you’re not a fan, the buzzing atmosphere and audience enthusiasm can be infectious – Osaka’s Hanshin Tigers are famed for their boisterous fans (and consistently underperforming team).

In addition to the two professional leagues, Central and Pacific, each with six teams, there’s the equally (if not more) popular All-Japan High School Baseball Championship. You might be able to catch one of the local play-offs before the main tournament, which is held each summer at Kōshien Stadium near Osaka.

In the professional leagues, the teams are sponsored by big businesses, a fact immediately apparent from their names, such as the Yakult Swallows (named after a food company) and Yomiuri Giants (this time a newspaper conglomerate). The victors from the Central and Pacific leagues go on to battle it out for the supreme title in the seven-match Japan Series every autumn.

Tickets for all games are available from the stadia or at advance ticket booths. They start at ¥1500 and go on sale on the Friday two weeks prior to a game. For more information on Japan’s pro-baseball leagues, check out the official professional league site ( npb.jp), and the fan-site Baseball Guru ( baseballguru.com).

Football

Generally referred to as soccer in Japan, football was introduced here in 1873 by an Englishman: Lieutenant Commander Douglas of the Royal Navy. However, it wasn’t until Japan’s first professional soccer league, the J-League ( jleague.jp), was launched in 1993 that the sport captured the public’s imagination. Following on from the success of the 2002 World Cup, hosted jointly by Japan and Korea, the sport is now a huge crowd puller.

Games are played between March and October, with a break in August. Eighteen clubs play in the top J1 division, and together with teams from lower leagues, they also participate in the Emperor’s Cup; the best go on to play in the Asian Champions League, a contest won in the past by three Japanese teams (Kashima Antlers, Urawa Red Diamonds and Gamba Osaka).

Sumo

There’s something fascinating about Japan’s national sport, sumo, even though the titanic clashes between the enormous, near-naked wrestlers can be blindingly brief. The age-old pomp and ceremony that surrounds sumo – from the design of the dohyō (the ring in which bouts take place) to the wrestler’s slicked-back topknot – give the sport a gravitas completely absent from Western wrestling. The sport’s aura is enhanced by the majestic size of the wrestlers themselves: the average weight is around 140kg, but they can be much larger – Konishiki, one of the sumo stars of the 1990s, for example, weighed a scale-busting 272kg.

At the start of a bout, the two rikishi (wrestlers) wade into the ring, wearing only mawashi aprons, which are essentially giant jockstraps. Salt is tossed to purify the ring, and then the rikishi hunker down and indulge in the time-honoured ritual of psyching each other out with menacing stares. When ready, each rikishi attempts to throw his opponent to the ground or out of the ring using one or more of 82 legitimate techniques. The first to touch the ground with any part of his body other than his feet, or to step out of the dohyō, loses.

Despite their formidable girth, top rikishi enjoy the media status of supermodels, their social calendars being documented obsessively by the media. When not fighting in tournaments, groups of rikishi live and train together at their heya (stables), the youngest wrestlers acting pretty much as the menial slaves of their older, more experienced, colleagues. If you make an advance appointment, it’s possible to visit some heya to observe the early-morning practice sessions; contact the Tokyo tourist information centres for details. For all you could want to know and more on the current scene, plus how to buy tickets, check out the official website of sumo’s governing body, Nihon Sumo Kyōkai, at sumo.or.jp.

Martial arts

Japan has bequeathed to the world several forms of martial fisticuffs, and many visit to learn or hone one of the forms. If you’d like to do likewise, it’s usually best to start by contacting the relevant federation in your home country; in Tokyo, however, there are a few particularly foreigner-friendly associations.

The martial art most closely associated with Japan is judo, a self-defence technique that developed out of the Edo-era fighting schools of Jūjutsu. Then there’s aikido – half-sport, half-religion, its name translates as “the way of harmonious spirit”, and the code blends elements of judo, karate and kendo into a form of non-body-contact self-defence. It’s one of the newer martial arts, having only been created in Japan in the twentieth century and, as a rule, is performed without weapons. For a painfully enlightening and humorous take on the rigours of aikido training, read Robert Twigger’s Angry White Pyjamas.

SUMO: WHO’S WHO AND WHAT’S WHAT

Accounts of sumo bouts (basho) are related in Japan’s oldest annals dating back around two thousand years when it was a Shintō rite connected with praying for a good harvest. By the Edo period, sumo had developed into a spectator sport, and really hit its stride in the post-World War II period when basho started to be televised. The old religious trappings remain, though: the gyōji (referee) wears robes similar to those of a Shintō priest and above the dohyō hangs a thatched roof like those found at shrines.

Sumo tournaments take place on odd-numbered months, running for fifteen days (see below). The day starts at 9pm with the amateur divisions, before the stadium starts to fill up around 3pm for the professional ranks. These guys fight every day; if they win eight or more they go up the rankings, if they lose eight or more they go down, and whoever gets the most wins in the top division wins the trophy. At the very top of the tree is the yokozuna level – a lifelong rank which does not necessarily signify the most recent champion.

SUMO CHAMPIONS

In recent years, champions have been almost exclusively Mongolian in origin. The Japanese veteran Kotoshōgiku's victory in January 2016 came ten long years after the previous win by a Japanese-born wrestler, with Mongolian fighters scooping an incredible 57 of the 59 intervening tournaments (the other two were won by Kotoōshū from Bulgaria, and Estonia’s Baruto). The Mongolian run started in 2002 with the great Asashōryū who, in 2005, became the first wrestler in history to win all six tournaments in a calendar year. “Asa” was something of a pantomime villain, stirring up controversy on a regular basis before being ushered out of the sport in 2010. By then he had developed a tremendous rivalry with his closest challenger, fellow-Mongolian Hakuhō. These two great fighters both became yokozuna, to be joined shortly after Asashōryū’s retirement by two more Mongolians, Harumafuji and Kakuryū; at the time of writing, Kakuryū and Hakuhō were still going strong, with the latter having become the most decorated wrestler in centuries of sumo history.

However, Japanese prospects are better than they have been for years, with no fewer than five local rikishi (wrestlers) winning the title in the two-and-a-half years following Kotoshōgiku's 2016 victory.

THE ANNUAL SUMO TOURNAMENTS

The must-see annual sumo tournaments are held at the following locations, starting on the second Sunday of the month and lasting for two weeks: Kokugikan in Tokyo (Jan, May & Sept); Osaka Furitsu Taiiku Kaikan in Osaka (March); Aichi-ken Taiiku-kan in Nagoya (July); and the Fukuoka Kokusai Centre, Fukuoka (Nov).

Despite sumo’s declining popularity, it’s still difficult to book the prime ringside seats (around ¥45,000 for four seats in a tatami-mat block) but often possible to bag reserved seats in the balconies (starting around ¥3200). The cheapest unreserved seats (¥2200) go on sale on the door on the day of the tournament at 9am. To be assured of a ticket, you’ll generally need to be there before 11am, though tickets only ever sell out on the last day of a basho. Matches start at 9am for the lower-ranked wrestlers, and at this time of day it’s okay to sneak into any vacant ringside seats to watch the action close up; when the rightful owners turn up, play the dumb-foreigner card and return to your own seat. The sumo superstars come on around 4pm, and the day finishes at 6pm on the dot.

Full details in English about ticket sales can be found on the sumo association’s website ( sumo.or.jp), and it’s also possible to buy online at buysumotickets.com. Also note that NHK televises each basho daily from 3.30pm.

Karate has its roots in China and was only introduced into Japan via the southern islands of Okinawa in 1922. Since then, the sport has developed many different styles, several with governing bodies and federations based in Tokyo.

Lastly, there’s kendo ; meaning “the way of the sword”, this is Japanese fencing where players either use a long bamboo weapon, the shinai, or a lethal metal katana blade. This martial art has the longest pedigree in Japan, dating from the Muromachi period (1392–1573); it developed as a sport during the Edo period.

Tokyo, with its many dōjō (practice halls), is the best place in the country in which to view or learn these ancient sports. Tokyo’s Tourist Information Centres have a full list of dōjō that allow visitors to watch practice sessions for free.

Rugby

Rugby has been something of a niche sport in Japan. The national team was famously obliterated 145–17 by New Zealand in the 1995 World Cup (a record defeat), but the game in Japan has since come on in leaps and bounds: Japan even provided the shock of the 2015 tournament – some would say the entire history of rugby – with a last-second win over South Africa. Partly as a result of said improvement, Japan was granted hosting rights for the 2019 World Cup tournament. On the domestic front, teams from around Japan compete in the national Top League, which runs from August to January (check en.rugby-japan.jp for schedule and venue information).

Outdoor activities

Popular outdoor activities include skiing, hiking and mountain climbing. The Tokyo-based Outdoor Club Japan ( outdoorclubjapan.com), and Kansai’s International Outdoor Club (IOC; iockansai.com) provide informal opportunities to explore the countryside in the company of like-minded people. Outdoor Japan ( outdoorjapan.com) is also a mine of useful information.

Skiing and snowboarding

Japan is a ski and snowboard paradise; even on the shortest trip to the country it’s easy to arrange a day-trip to the slopes, since many major resorts on Honshū are within a couple of hours’ train ride of Tokyo, Nagoya or Osaka. Serious skiers will want to head to the northern island of Hokkaidō, which has some of the country’s best ski resorts.

The cost of a ski trip needn’t be too expensive. Lift passes are typically ¥4000 per day, or less if you ski for several days in a row; equipment rental averages around ¥4000 for the skis, boots and poles per day, while accommodation at a family-run minshuku compares favourably to that of many European and American resorts.

Transport to the slopes is fast and efficient; at one resort (Gala Yuzawa in Niigata; galaresort.jp) you can step straight off the Shinkansen onto the ski lifts. Ski maps and signs are often in English, and you’re sure to find some English-speakers and, at the major resorts, gaijin staff, if you run into difficulties.

Top resorts can get very crowded, especially at weekends and during holidays; if you don’t want to ski in rush-hour conditions, plan your trip for midweek. In addition, the runs are, on the whole, much shorter than in Europe and the US. Compensating factors, however, are fast ski lifts, beautiful scenery – especially in the Japan Alps – and the opportunity to soak in onsen hot springs at night.

Recommended for beginners is either Gala Yuzawa or Naeba ( princehotels.co.jp/ski/naeba), both reached in under two hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen. Nozawa Onsen also has good beginners’ runs, but its off-the-beaten-track location makes it a better bet for more experienced skiers. Appi Kōgen and Zaō Onsen in northern Honshū and Hakuba in Nagano are considered the Holy Trinity of Japanese ski resorts. Shiga Kōgen is another mammoth resort in Nagano. If you’re after the best powder-snow skiing without the crowds, head north to Hokkaidō, to the world-class resorts of Furano and Niseko. There are also many slopes easily accessible on a day-trip from Sapporo.

All the major travel agents offer ski packages, which are worth considering. Hakuba-based Ski Japan Holidays ( japanspecialists.com) and Niseko-based SkiJapan.com ( skijapan.com) both have plenty of experience setting up deals for the expat community. Youth hostels near ski areas also often have excellent-value packages, including accommodation, meals and lift passes, and can arrange competitive equipment rental.

Mountaineering and hiking

Until the twentieth century, few Japanese would have considered climbing one of their often sacred mountains for anything other than religious reasons. These days, prime highland beauty spots such as Kamikōchi are very popular with day-hikers and serious mountaineers, so much so that they risk being overrun. In addition, there are scores of national parks and other protected areas, and exploring these and other picturesque parts of the countryside on foot is one of the great pleasures of a trip to Japan. Nevertheless, bear in mind that those areas close to cities can get very busy at weekends and during holidays. If you can, go midweek or out of season when the trails are less crowded.

TAKING A HOT-SPRING DIP

The Japanese islands boast a tremendous abundance of hot springs. While such waters bubble from the ground elsewhere, in Japan this natural bounty has been turned into an art form – there are thousands upon thousands of onsen (温泉) dotted across the country, and you’ll never be too far from one. What may be viewed in the West as rather decadent or esoteric is simply a fact of life here – businessmen bathe between meetings, families drop by at weekends, pensioners pop along for a wash, and guffawing teens rinse off the stress after school. And of course, pink-skinned foreigners use them as a means of heightening their cultural experience – even if they may not, at least initially, be as comfortable as most Japanese in the company of naked strangers.

Taking a traditional Japanese bath, whether in an onsen, a sentō (a bathhouse with regular, rather than hot-spring, water) or a ryokan, is a ritual that’s definitely worth mastering. Everyone uses the same water, and the golden rule is to wash and rinse the soap off thoroughly before stepping into the bath – showers and bowls are provided, as well as soap and shampoo in most cases. Ryokan and the more upmarket public bathhouses provide small towels (bring your own or buy one on the door if using a cheaper sentō), though no one minds full nudity. Baths are typically segregated, so memorize the kanji for female (女), which looks a little like a woman; and male (男), which looks sort of like a chap with a box on his head.

Note that tattoos – which are associated with the yakuza in Japan – are a big issue when it comes to public bathing. Even if you look nothing like a member of the local mafia, you may be asked to cover up the offending image, or even denied access to the baths entirely. If you’re intending to visit any particular bathing establishment, the best course of action is to get your accommodation (or a local tourist office) to call ahead for verification of their tattoo regulations.

Onsen establishments run the full gamut from small-and-cosy to theme-park. Whole books have been written about the various facilities available across Japan, but here are a few recommendations:

Beppu, Kyūshū This Kyūshū town is essentially one massive onsen, with steam billowing from the drains in the manner of a Manhattan-based film noir. There are hundreds of places to bathe here, including olde-worlde Takegawara, but most magical are the “hidden onsen” in the forests overlooking the town.

Jigokudani Monkey Park, Chūbu The home of the famed “snow monkeys”, this onsen has a special rotemburo (outdoor hot-spring bath) in which the local macaque community pop by for a bathe. Human-friendly baths are also available.

Noboribetsu Onsen, Hokkaidō Set among the sulphurous, volcanic landscape of central Hokkaidō, this little resort has a bunch of appealing ryokan at which to take a dip.

Sakurajima, Kyūshū Sakurajima is a highly active volcano, often seen belching trails of ash. There are onsen at the base of said active volcano. Enough said.

Yunomine Onsen, Kansai Dating back over 1800 years, it’s obvious why this onsen has been designated a World Heritage spot.

Hiking trails, especially in the national parks, are well marked. Campsites and mountain huts open during the climbing season, which runs from June to the end of August. The efficient train network means that even from sprawling conurbations like Tokyo, you can be in beautiful countryside in just over an hour – top hiking destinations from the capital include the lakes, mountains and rugged coastline of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park to the southwest, and Nikkō to the north. Things get even better around the country, in areas such as Hokkaidō’s Daisetsu-zan National Park, the Japan Alps, the island of Yakushima off Kyūshū, and Aso-san and Ebino Kōgen on Kyūshū itself. The website outdoorjapan.com has useful ideas and information if you plan to go hiking or camping in Japan.

Rafting, canoeing and kayaking

All the snow that gets dumped on Japan’s mountains in winter eventually melts, swelling the country’s numerous rivers. Although the vast majority of these have been tamed by dams and concrete walls along the riverbanks, there are stretches that provide the ideal conditions for whitewater rafting, canoeing and kayaking. Prime spots for these activities are Minakami in Gunma-ken, Hakuba in Nagano-ken, the Iya Valley and Shimanto-gawa, both in Shikoku, and Niseko in Hokkaidō. A reputable firm to contact to find out more is Canyons ( canyons.jp).

Golf

One of Japan’s premier pro-golfing events is the Japan Open Golf Championship ( www.jga.or.jp), held each October. If you fancy a round yourself, you’ll find (somewhat old, but still useful) details of 2308 courses of eighteen holes or more at Golf in Japan ( golf-in-japan.com); local tourist information centres will always be able to direct you to the nearest course. Course fees vary widely from ¥3000 at the cheapest places to over ¥40,000 for a round at the most exclusive links.

Beaches, surfing and diving

Given that Japan is an archipelago, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it would be blessed with some pleasant beaches. The truth is that industrialization has blighted much of the coastline and many of the country’s beaches are covered with litter and/or polluted. The best beaches are those furthest away from the main island of Honshū, which means those on the islands of Okinawa, or the Izu and Ogasawara islands south of Tokyo.

Incredibly, Japan’s market for surf goods is the world’s largest, and when the surfers aren’t hauling their boards off to Hawaii and Australia, they can be found braving the waves at various home locations. Top surfing spots include the southern coasts of Shikoku and Kyūshū. Closer to Tokyo, pros head for the rocky east Kujūkuri coast of the Chiba peninsula, while the beaches around Shōnan, near Kamakura, are fine for perfecting your style and hanging out with the trendiest surfers.

The best places to head for diving are Okinawa and the island of Sado-ga-shima, near Niigata. Those with walrus-like hides may fancy braving ice diving in the frozen far northern reaches of Hokkaidō.

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Culture and etiquette

Japan is famous for its complex web of social conventions and rules of behaviour. Fortunately, allowances are made for befuddled foreigners, but it will be greatly appreciated – and even draw gasps of astonishment – if you show a grasp of the basic principles. We provide a few tips for eating and drinking etiquette which are sure to come in handy, but the two main danger areas are footwear and bathing, which, if you get them wrong, can cause great offence.

Some general pointers

Japan is a strictly hierarchical society where men generally take precedence, so women shouldn’t expect doors to be held open or seats vacated. Sexual discrimination remains widespread, and foreign women working in Japan can find the predominantly male business culture hard going.

Pushing and shoving on crowded trains or buses is not uncommon. Never respond by getting angry or showing aggression, as this is considered a complete loss of face. By the same token, don’t make your opinions known too forcefully or contradict people outright; it’s more polite to say “maybe” than a direct “no”, so if you get a vague answer to a question don’t push for confirmation unless it’s important.

Note that it’s particularly unwise to criticize any aspect of Japanese society, however small, to a local; in a land where people tend to describe themselves as a “we”, it’s often taken as a personal insult.

Blowing your nose in public is also considered rude – locals keep sniffing until they find somewhere private (this can continue for hours on end, which is great fun if you’re sitting next to a sniffler on a long train ride). An even more common agony for visitors is having to sit on the floor at people’s houses and certain restaurants – excruciatingly uncomfortable for people who aren’t used to it. If you’re wearing trousers, sitting cross-legged is fine; otherwise, tuck your legs to one side.

Meetings and greetings

Some visitors to Japan complain that it’s difficult to meet local people – the Japanese themselves famously have problems meeting each other, as evidenced by regular pay-for-company stories in the international press, and the legion of “snack” bars (where local men essentially pay to have their egos massaged). It’s also true that many Japanese are shy of foreigners, mainly through a fear of being unable to communicate. A few words of Japanese will help enormously, and there are various opportunities for fairly formal contact, such as through the Goodwill Guides. Otherwise, try popping into a local bar, a yakitori joint or suchlike; with everyone crammed in like sardines, and emboldened by alcohol, it’s far easier to strike up a conversation.

JAPANESE NAMES

Japanese names are traditionally written with the family name first, followed by a given name, which is the practice used throughout this book (except where the Western version has become famous, such as Issey Miyake). When dealing with foreigners, however, they may well write their name the other way round. Check if you’re not sure because, when addressing people, it’s normal to use the family name plus -san: for example, Suzuki-san. San is an honorific term applied to others, so you do not use it when introducing yourself or your family. As a foreigner, you can choose whichever of your names you feel comfortable with; you’ll usually have a -san tacked onto the end of your given name. You’ll also often hear -chan or -kun as a form of address; these are diminutives reserved for very good friends, young children and pets. The suffix -sama is the politest form of address.

Whenever Japanese meet, express thanks or say goodbye, there’s a flurry of bowing – and, between friends, an energetic waving of hands. The precise depth of the bow and the length of time it’s held for depend on the relative status of the two individuals; foreigners aren’t expected to bow, but it’s terribly infectious and you’ll soon find yourself bobbing with the best of them. The usual compromise is a slight nod or a quick half-bow. Japanese more familiar with Western customs might offer you a hand to shake, in which case treat it gently – they won’t be expecting a firm grip.

Japanese people tend to dress smartly, especially in Tokyo. Tourists don’t have to go overboard, but will be better received if they look neat and tidy, while for anyone hoping to do business, a snappy suit (any colour, as long as it’s black) is de rigueur. It’s also important to be punctual for social and business appointments.

An essential part of any business meeting is the swapping of meishi (name cards); if you’re doing business here, it’s a very good idea to have them printed in Japanese as well as English. Always carry a copious supply, since you’ll be expected to exchange a card with everyone present. Meishi are offered with both hands, held so that the recipient can read the writing. It’s polite to read the card and then place it on the table beside you, face up. Never write on a meishi, at least not in the owner’s presence, and never shove it in a pocket – pop it into your wallet, a dedicated card-holder, or somewhere suitably respectful.

Hospitality and gifts

Entertaining, whether it’s business or purely social, usually takes place in bars and restaurants. The host generally orders and, if it’s a Japanese-style meal, will keep passing you different things to try. You’ll also find your glass continually topped up. It’s polite to return the gesture but if you don’t drink, or don’t want any more, leave it full.

It’s a rare honour to be invited to someone’s home in Japan, and if this happens you should always take a gift, which should always be wrapped, using plenty of fancy paper and ribbon if possible. Most shops gift-wrap purchases automatically, and anything swathed in paper from a big department store has extra cachet.

Japanese people love giving gifts (in fact, they are more or less obliged to give souvenirs known as omiyage to friends and colleagues following any holiday), and you should never refuse one if offered, though it’s good manners to protest at their generosity first. Again, it’s polite to give and receive with both hands, and to belittle your humble donation while giving profuse thanks for the gift you receive. It’s the custom not to open gifts in front of the donor, thus avoiding potential embarrassment.

Shoes and slippers

It’s customary to change into slippers when entering a Japanese home or a ryokan, and not uncommon in traditional restaurants, temples and, occasionally, museums and art galleries. If you come across a slightly raised floor and a row of slippers, then use them; leave your shoes either on the lower floor (the genkan) or on the shelves (sometimes lockers) provided. Also try not to step on the genkan with bare or stockinged feet. Once inside, remove your slippers before stepping onto tatami (the rice-straw flooring), and remember to change into the special toilet slippers kept inside the bathroom when you go to the toilet.

Toilets

Although you’ll still come across traditional Japanese squat-style toilets (toire or otearai; トイレ／お手洗い), Western sit-down toilets are becoming the norm. Look out for nifty enhancements such as a heated seat and those that flush automatically as you walk away. Another handy device plays the sound of flushing water to cover embarrassing noises.

Hi-tech toilets, with a control panel to one side, are very common. Finding the flush button can be a challenge – they’re often tiny things on wall panels, marked with the kanji for large (大) or small (小), used for number twos and ones respectively.

Most public toilets provide paper (often extremely thin), though not always soap for washing your hands. There are public toilets at most train and subway stations, department stores and city parks, and they’re generally pretty clean.

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Shopping

Even if you’re not an inveterate shopper, cruising Japan’s gargantuan department stores or rummaging around its vibrant discount outlets is an integral part of local life that shouldn’t be missed. Japan also has some truly enticing souvenirs, from lacquered chopsticks and delicate handmade paper to the latest electronic gadgets.

All prices are fixed, except in flea markets and some discount electrical stores where bargaining is acceptable. Though it’s always worth asking, surprisingly few shops take credit cards and fewer still accept cards issued abroad, so make sure you have plenty of cash.

In general, shop opening hours are from 10am or 11am to 7pm or 8pm. Most shops close one day a week, not always on Sunday, and smaller places tend to shut on public holidays. If you need anything after hours, you’ll find late-opening convenience stores in even the smallest towns, and stores that are open 24 hours in most towns and cities, often near the train station.

Arts and crafts

Many of Japan’s arts and crafts date back thousands of years and have been handed down from generation to generation. Though the best can be phenomenally expensive, there are plenty of items at more manageable prices that make wonderful souvenirs. Most department stores have at least a small crafts section, but it’s far more enjoyable to trawl Japan’s specialist shops. Kyoto is renowned for its traditional crafts, and in Tokyo you’ll find a number of artisans still plying their trade, while most regions have a vibrant local crafts industry turning out products for the tourists.

Some of Japan’s most beautiful traditional products stem from folk crafts (mingei), ranging from elegant, inexpensive bamboo-ware to woodcarvings, toys, masks, kites and a whole host of delightful dolls (ningyō). Peg-shaped kokeshi dolls from northern Honshū are among the most appealing, with their bright colours and sweet, simple faces. Look out, too, for the rotund, round-eyed daruma dolls, made of papier-mâché, and fine clay Hakata-ningyō dolls from northern Kyūshū.

Ceramics

Japan’s most famous craft is its ceramics (tōjiki). Of several distinct regional styles, Imari-ware from Arita in Kyūshū is best known for its colourful, ornate designs, while the iron-brown unglazed Bizen-ware from near Okayama is satisfyingly rustic. Other famous names include Satsuma-yaki (from Kagoshima), Kasama-yaki (from Ibaraki), Kanazawa’s highly elaborate Kutani-yaki and Kyoto’s Kyō-yaki. Any decent department store will stock a full range of styles, or you can visit local showrooms. Traditional tea bowls, sake sets and vases are popular souvenirs.

Lacquerware

Originally devised as a means of making everyday utensils more durable, lacquerware (shikki or urushi) has developed over the centuries into a unique art form. Items such as trays, tables, boxes, chopsticks and bowls are typically covered with reddish-brown or black lacquer and either left plain or decorated with paintings, carvings, sprinkled with eggshell or given a dusting of gold or silver leaf. Though top-quality lacquer can be hugely expensive, you’ll still find very beautiful pieces at reasonable prices. Lacquer needs a humid atmosphere, especially the cheaper pieces which are made on a base of low-quality wood that cracks in dry conditions, though inexpensive plastic bases won’t be affected. Wajima is one of the most famous places for lacquerware in Japan.

DUTY-FREE SHOPPING

Tourists to Japan can make purchases duty-free – that is, without the ten percent consumption tax – in a whole bunch of shops around the country. Participating outlets usually have a Duty Free or Tax Free sticker in the window by the entrance.

To take advantage of the scheme, you’ll need a minimum total spend of ¥5000 at a single store; there’s an upper limit of ¥500,000 on perishable goods such as food, drinks, tobacco, cosmetics and film, which have to be taken out of the country within 30 days, and cannot be used while still inside the country. Your passport will be required on purchase, and it must have an entry stamp from customs; if you manage to enter Japan without one (such as by using the automatic gates at the airport), ask for a stamp from an immigration officer. The shop will attach a copy of the customs document (wariin) to your passport, which will be removed by customs officers when you leave Japan.

ANTIQUE AND FLEA MARKETS

The regular outdoor antique and flea markets of Tokyo and Kyoto, usually held at shrines and temples (see individual city accounts for details), are great fun. You need to get there early for the best deals, but you’re likely to find some gorgeous secondhand kimono, satin-smooth lacquerware or rustic pottery, among a good deal of tat. Flea markets are also great for stocking up on inexpensive clothes and household items.

Paper products and woodblock prints

Traditional Japanese paper (washi), made from mulberry or other natural fibres, is fashioned into any number of tempting souvenirs. You can buy purses, boxes, fans, oiled umbrellas, lampshades and toys all made from paper, as well as wonderful stationery.

Original woodblock prints, ukiyo-e, by world-famous artists such as Utamaro, Hokusai and Hiroshige, have long been collectors’ items fetching thousands of pounds. However, you can buy copies of these “pictures of the floating world”, often depicting Mount Fuji, willowy geisha or lusty heroes of the kabuki stage, at tourist shops for more modest sums. Alternatively, note that some art shops specialize in originals, both modern and antique.

Textiles, metalwork and pearls

Japan has a long history of making attractive textiles, particularly the silks used in kimono. Other interesting uses of textiles include noren, a split curtain hanging in the entrance to a restaurant or bar; cotton tenugui (small hand towels), decorated with cute designs; and the furoshiki, a square, versatile wrapping cloth that comes in a variety of sizes.

While the chunky iron kettles from Morioka in northern Honshū are rather unwieldy mementos, the area also produces delicate fūrin, or wind chimes, in a variety of designs. Damascene is also more portable, though a bit fussy for some tastes. This metal inlay-work, with gold and silver threads on black steel, was originally used to fix the family crest on sword hilts and helmets, though nowadays you can buy all sorts of jewellery and trinket boxes decorated with birds, flowers and other intricate designs.

Pearls are undoubtedly Japan’s most famous jewellery item, ever since Mikimoto Kōkichi first succeeded in growing cultured pearls in Toba in 1893. Toba is still the centre of production, though you’ll find specialist shops in all major cities, selling pearls at fairly competitive prices.

Books

Imported foreign-language books are expensive and only available in major cities. However, some locally produced English-language books are cheaper here than they would be at home, if you can find them at all outside Japan. The best bookshops are Kinokuniya, Tower Books (part of Tower Records), Maruzen, Yūrindō and Junkudō, all of which stock imported newspapers and magazines as well as a variable selection of foreign-language books.

Department stores

Japan’s most prestigious department stores are Isetan, Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya, followed by the more workaday Seibu, Tōbu and Matsuzakaya. All of these big names have branches throughout Japan, and sell almost everything, from fashion, crafts and household items to stationery and toys. One floor is usually devoted to restaurants, while bigger stores may also have an art gallery, travel bureau, ticket agent and a currency-exchange desk, as well as English-speaking staff and a duty-free service. Seasonal sales, particularly those at New Year and early July, can offer great bargains.

Electrical and electronic goods

Japan is a well-known producer of high-quality and innovative electrical and electronic goods. New designs are tested on the local market before going into export production, so this is the best place to check out the latest technological advances. The majority of high-tech goods are sold in discount stores, where prices may be up to forty percent cheaper than at a conventional store. Akihabara, in Tokyo, is the country’s foremost area for electronic goods, but in every major city you can buy audio equipment, computers, software and any number of ingenious gadgets at competitive prices.

Similarly, Japanese cameras and other photographic equipment are among the best in the world. Shinjuku, in Tokyo, is the main centre, where you can pick up the latest models and find discontinued and secondhand cameras at decent prices.

Before buying anything, compare prices – many shops are open to bargaining – and make sure the items come with the appropriate voltage switch (Japanese power supply is 100V). It’s also important to check that whatever you buy will be compatible with equipment you have at home, if necessary. For English-language instructions, after-sales service and guarantees, stick to export models, which you’ll find mostly in the stores’ duty-free sections, but bear in mind that they may not be any cheaper than you would pay at home.

Fashion

Top Japanese labels such as Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons and Evisu jeans are worn by fashionistas around the world, but there are also plenty of up-and-coming designers and streetwear labels to discover in Japan. The epicentre of chic is Tokyo’s Omotesandō and the surrounding Aoyama and Harajuku areas. If you want to check out the latest designers and labels, such as Jun Takahashi, Tsumori Chisato and Yanagawa Arashi, then head to the boutiques here and in trendy Daikanyama and Nakameguro, or hit town during Tokyo Fashion Week ( jfw.jp), held twice a year. Kyoto also has an interesting fashion scene.

Finding clothes that fit is becoming easier as young Japanese are, on average, substantially bigger-built than their parents, and foreign chains tend to carry larger sizes. Shoes, however, are more of a problem. While stores stock larger sizes nowadays, the range is still pretty limited – your best bet is to try a large department store, or the ubiquitous branches of ABC Mart.

THE COMEBACK OF THE KIMONO

In Japan, kimono are still worn by many people on special occasions, such as weddings and festival visits to a shrine. But as the demand for high-class kimono, such as those made by the craftspeople of Kyoto, declines – a result of the falling birth rate and Japan’s ageing population – the one bright spot for the industry is the trend to adapt old kimono to new uses. Increasing numbers of fashion-conscious young women have taken to wearing a kimono like a coat over Western clothes or coordinating it with coloured rather than white tabi (traditional split-toed socks). At the same time, fashion designers are turning to kimono fabrics and styles for contemporary creations.

BUYING KIMONO

Few visitors to Japan fail to be impressed by the beauty and variety of kimono available, and every department store has a corner devoted to ready-made or tailored kimono. Ready-made versions can easily cost ¥100,000, while ¥1 million for the best made-to-measure kimono is not uncommon. Much more affordable secondhand or antique kimono can be found in tourist shops, flea markets or in the kimono sales held by department stores, usually in spring and autumn. Prices can start as low as ¥1000, but you’ll pay more for the sumptuous, highly decorated wedding kimono (they make striking wall hangings), as well as the most beautifully patterned obi, the broad, silk sash worn with a kimono. A cheaper, more practical alternative is the light cotton yukata, popular with both sexes as a dressing gown; you’ll find them in all department stores and many speciality stores, along with happi coats – the loose jackets that just cover the upper body. To complete the outfit, you could pick up a pair of zōri, traditional straw sandals, or their wooden counterpart, geta.

DRESSING UP

If you want to try the full kimono look, you’ll find that many of the big hotels have a studio where you can dress up and have your photo taken (typically around ¥10,000–15,000), while some guesthouses also offer the opportunity. The most popular place to don kimono is, of course, Kyoto. Men can get in on the act, too, dressing up in what is called “samurai” style (around ¥5000), though the male kimono is much less florid in design than the female version, and is usually in muted colours such as black, greys and browns.

Food and drink

Edible souvenirs include various types of rice crackers (sembei), both sweet and savoury, vacuum-packed bags of pickles (tsukemono), and Japanese sweets (okashi) such as the eye-catching wagashi. Made of sweet, red-bean paste in various colours and designs, wagashi are the traditional accompaniment to the tea ceremony. Tea itself (ocha) comes in a variety of grades, often in attractive canisters, while sake, premium shōchū or Japanese whisky are other great gift options, and often come in interestingly shaped bottles with beautiful labels.

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Travelling with children

With high standards of health, hygiene and safety, and lots of interesting things to do, Japan is a great place to travel with children. At museums and other sights, school-age kids usually get reduced rates, which may be up to half the adult price. Children under age 6 ride free on trains, subways and buses, while those aged 6 to 11 pay half fare.

It’s a good idea to bring a lightweight, easily collapsible pushchair. You’ll find yourself walking long distances in cities and, while many subway and train stations now have lifts, there are still plenty of stairs.

Finding hotels offering family rooms that fit more than three people is tough: international chain hotels are your best bet. A great alternative is a Japanese-style ryokan or minshuku where you can share a big tatami room. Only at the more upmarket Western-style hotels will you be able to arrange babysitting.

All the products you need – such as nappies and baby food – are easily available in shops and department stores, though not necessarily imported varieties. If you need a particular brand, it would be wise to bring it with you. Although breastfeeding in public is generally accepted, it’s best to be as discreet as possible. Most Japanese women who breastfeed use the private rooms provided in department stores, public buildings and in many shops, or find a quiet corner.

The hazy situation with regard to smoking in Japanese restaurants (many still allow it), combined with uncommon dishes and Japanese-language menus, will provide parents trying to feed fussy kids with certain challenges. One solution is to ask your hotel to point you in the direction of the nearest “family restaurant” chain, such as Royal Host or Jonathan’s; all have children’s menus including Western and Japanese dishes with pictures of each dish, as well as non-smoking sections.

THE BEST OF JAPAN FOR KIDS

Tokyo Whether shopping for the latest teenager fashions or checking out the fabulous Ghibli Museum, kids of all ages will love Japan’s high-octane capital.

Taketomi, Okinawa Hop on a bike, or board a buffalo-drawn carriage, to explore the beautiful star-sand beaches of this tiny, car-free island.

Sumo A visit to the sumo will make children the envy of their school pals.

Snow monkeys, Honshū See the world-famous snow monkeys bathe at the Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Amusement parks Strap yourself into some white-knuckle rides at Universal Studios in Osaka, Tokyo Dome City or Disneyland in Tokyo or Fujikyū Highland in Fuji-Yoshida.

Ryokan Kids will love the ritual of staying overnight in a ryokan.

The Great Outdoors, Hokkaidō Explore spectacular lakes, steaming valleys and active volcanoes. In winter, there’s great skiing and ice festivals.

Bullet trains The thought of travelling at speeds faster than a racing car may well put paid to the “are we there yet?” cliché.

Kyoto Follow the path up the mountain at the Fushimi-Inari shrine, spotting the stone foxes and counting the torii as you go (all 10,000 of them); explore the magnificent castle of Nijō-jō with its squeaky, intruder-repelling “nightingale floors”; or take a day-trip to the monkey park and towering bamboo grove of Arashiyama.

Karaoke While adult crooners tend to use karaoke parlours as a means of getting drunk cheaply, venues are open through the day, and most are private-room affairs – fun places for kids to enjoy belting out their favourite hits.

< Back to Basics

Travel essentials

Costs

Despite its reputation as being an outrageously expensive country, prices in Japan have dropped, or at least stabilized, in recent years. With a little planning, it is a manageable destination even for those on an absolute minimum daily budget of ¥4000–7000. By the time you’ve added in some transport costs, a few entry tickets, meals in classier restaurants and one or two nights in a ryokan or business hotel, ¥10,000–15,000 per day is more realistic.

Holders of the International Student Identity Card (ISIC; isiccard.com) are eligible for discounts on some transport and admission fees, as are children. A Hostelling International card ( hihostels.com) qualifies you for a reduction of ¥600 on the rates of official youth hostels, though these days most of the best establishments are privately run.

As well as checking out our tips on how to make your yen go further, take a look at JNTO’s website ( jnto.go.jp) for further ideas on saving money. Welcome Card schemes, for example, operate in some areas of the country, which entitle you to discounts at certain museums, sights, shops, restaurants and transport services. At the time of writing, there were ten Welcome Card schemes in operation, including in the Tōhoku area and the Tokyo museum pass.

Crime and personal safety

Japan boasts one of the lowest crime rates in the world. On the whole, the Japanese are honest and law-abiding, there’s little theft, and drug-related crimes are relatively rare. Nonetheless, it always pays to be careful in crowds, and to keep money and important documents stowed in an inside pocket or money belt, or in your hotel safe.

The presence of police boxes (kōban) in every neighbourhood helps to discourage petty crime, and the local police seem to spend the majority of their time dealing with stolen bikes and helping bemused visitors – Japanese and foreigners – find addresses. In theory, you should carry your passport or ID at all times; the police have the right to arrest anyone who fails to do so. In practice they rarely stop foreigners, but if you’re found without ID, you’ll most likely be escorted back to your hotel or apartment to collect it. Anyone found with drugs will be treated less leniently; if you’re lucky, you’ll simply be fined and deported, rather than sent to prison.

CONSUMPTION TAX

A consumption tax (shōhizei) is levied on virtually all goods and services in Japan, including restaurant meals and accommodation. In October 2019, the rate was ten percent, so some of the listings in this guidebook may have slightly increased prices by the time you read this. Tax is supposed to be included in the advertised price, though you’ll come across plenty of shops, hotels, restaurants and bars which haven’t quite got around to it; double-check to be on the safe side.

The generally low status of women in Japan is reflected in the amount of groping that goes on in crowded commuter trains. If you do have the misfortune to be groped, the best solution is to grab the offending hand, yank it high in the air and embarrass the guy as much as possible. Fortunately, more violent sexual attacks are rare, though harassment, stalking and rape are seriously under-reported. Women should exercise the same caution about being alone with a man as they would anywhere – violent crimes against women are rare, but they do occur.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Police run an English-language hotline ( 03 3501 0110; Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.15pm). Another useful option is Tokyo English Language Lifeline (TELL; 03 5774 0992, telljp.com; daily 9am–11pm). Each prefecture also has a Foreign Advisory Service, with a variety of foreign-language speakers who can be contacted as a last resort.

Earthquakes

Japan is home to one-tenth of the world’s active volcanoes; it’s also the site of one-tenth of its major earthquakes (over magnitude 7 on the Richter scale). At least one quake is recorded every day somewhere in the country (see www.jma.go.jp for details of the most recent), though fortunately the vast majority consist of minor tremors that you probably won’t even notice. One that the whole world noticed occurred off the country’s east coast in March 2011. The fifth most powerful earthquake in recorded history, it unleashed a tsunami of prodigious force; the combined effect killed almost 16,000 people, and caused a meltdown at the nuclear power plant in Fukushima, where the effects will be felt for decades.

Earthquakes are notoriously difficult to predict, and it’s worth taking note of a few basic safety procedures. Aftershocks may go on for a long time, and can topple structures that are already weakened. Do note, however, that since the 1980s buildings have been designed to withstand even the most powerful quakes. Japan is equipped with some of the world’s most sophisticated sensors, and architects employ mind-boggling techniques to try to ensure the country’s high-rises remain upright. Most casualties are caused by fire and traffic accidents, rather than collapsing buildings.

SAVING YOUR YEN

No two ways about it – Japan is an expensive place to visit. However, there are plenty of ways in which to make your trip affordable.

Getting there A number of low-cost airlines, both Japanese and international, now fly to Japan, meaning that you can enter or leave the country very cheaply if travelling to and from destinations such as South Korea, China, Taiwan, Malaysia or even Australia.

Getting around Most travellers are savvy enough to organize a Japan Rail Pass before their trip; alternatively, other discount train passes are available, including the crazy-cheap Seishun 18 ticket. Don’t forget other forms of transport, too: taking a bus is often the cheapest way from A to B, and you can pick up some good fares on the budget airlines. Overnight ferries and buses are an economical way of getting around.

Sights Most of the country’s temples and shrines are absolutely free, as is taking in the banks of eye-popping neon in Tokyo’s Shinjuku or Akihabara. Hot-spring bathing can also be very cheap.

Sleeping Japan has a whole bunch of cheap hostels and less-cheap business hotels and minshuku. To really scrape the bottom of the barrel, try sleeping in an internet café.

Eating This is one area in which Japan is actually very affordable by developed-country standards. However, if you want to cut costs even further, you can get super-cheap meals from restaurant chains or standing noodle bars.

Drinking Bars and izakaya are expensive – and that’s before you include the cover charges which can make bar-crawls a very costly proposition. The solution – convenience stores. Public drinking is quite legal in Japan, and many an expat regularly pops down to the 7-Eleven for a “kombini Martini”.

Electricity

The electrical current is 100v, 50Hz AC in Japan east of Mt Fuji, including Tokyo; and 100v, 60Hz AC in western Japan, including Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka. Japanese plugs have either two flat pins or, less commonly, three pins (two flat and one rounded, earth, pin). If you are coming from North America, Canada, the UK or Europe, the voltage difference should cause no problems with computers, digital cameras, mobile phones and the like, most of which can handle between 100V and 240V. Larger appliances such as hairdryers, curling irons and travel kettles should work, but not quite as efficiently, in which case you may need a converter. And, while Japanese plugs look identical to North American plugs, there are subtle differences, so you may also need an adaptor; you certainly will if coming from the UK or Europe.

Health

Japan has high standards of health and hygiene, and there are no significant diseases worth worrying about. There are no immunizations or health certificates needed to enter the country.

Medical treatment and drugs are of a high quality, but can be expensive – if possible, you should bring any medicines you might need with you, especially prescription drugs. Also bring a copy of your prescription and make sure you know what the generic name of the drug is, rather than its brand name. Some common drugs widely available throughout the US and Europe are generally not available in Japan, and some are actually illegal to bring into the country – prominent prescription drugs on the no-no list are codeine and some ADHD medication, for which you may need advance permission to bring into Japan. The Health Ministry website ( www.mhlw.go.jp) has more specific details on these, and the forms you’ll need to fill in to bring this medication into Japan legally. Also note that the contraceptive pill is only available on prescription.

Although mosquitoes buzz across Japan in the warmer months, malaria is not endemic, so there’s no need to take any tablets. It’s a good idea to pack mosquito repellent, however, and to burn coils in your room at night, or to use a plug-in repellent.

Tap water is safe to drink throughout Japan, but you should avoid drinking directly from streams or rivers. It’s also not a good idea to walk barefoot through flooded paddy fields, due to the danger of water-borne parasites. Food-wise, you should have no fears about eating raw seafood or sea fish, including the notorious fugu (blowfish). However, raw meat and river fish are best avoided.

Emergencies and medical help

In the case of an emergency, the first port of call should be to ask your hotel to phone for a doctor or ambulance. You could also head for, or call, the nearest tourist information office or international centre (in major cities only), which should be able to provide a list of local doctors and hospitals with English-speaking staff. Alternatively, you could call the toll-free 24-hour Japan Helpline ( 0570 000 911, jhelp.com).

If you need to call an ambulance on your own, dial 119 and speak slowly when you’re asked to give an address. Ambulance staff are not trained paramedics, but will take you to the nearest appropriate hospital. Unless you’re dangerously ill when you go to hospital, you’ll have to wait your turn in a clinic before you see a doctor, and you’ll need to be persistent if you want to get full details of your condition: some doctors are notorious for withholding information from patients.

For minor ailments and advice, you can go to a pharmacy, which you’ll find in most shopping areas. There are also numerous smaller private clinics, where you’ll pay in the region of ¥10,000 to see a doctor. You could also try Asian medical remedies, such as acupuncture (hari) and pressure point massage (shiatsu), though it’s worth trying to get a personal recommendation to find a reputable practitioner.

Insurance

It’s essential to take out a good travel insurance policy, particularly one with comprehensive medical coverage, due to the high cost of hospital treatment in Japan.

Internet

Many visitors soon realize that Japan doesn’t quite live up to its tech-savvy reputation. A fair few local websites (including those of some expensive hotels and restaurants) are laughably bad; with italicized Times New Roman fonts and copious Clipart characters, many seem to have been imported directly from the mid-1990s.

However, things are finally starting to improve, and wi-fi access is becoming more widespread. Some big-city cafés offer it for free (though you often have to register), and it’s par for the course at most accommodation. Some hotels provide terminals for guests travelling without their own computer, generally for a fee of around ¥1000.

Wi-fi has now been rolled out in most convenience stores – you have to register once, then log in each time. At the time of writing, 7-Eleven stores were by far the easiest at which to get online. Subway stations in Tokyo, Kyoto and some other cities are also now wired for wi-fi. Taking a small step back in time, cybercafés can be found across Japan, often as part of a 24-hour computer-game and manga centre. Free access is sometimes available (usually in cultural exchange centres, or regular cafés looking to boost business); otherwise, expect to pay around ¥200–400 per hour.

EARTHQUAKE SAFETY PROCEDURES

If you do have the misfortune to experience more than a minor rumble, follow the safety procedures listed below:

- Extinguish any fires and turn off electrical appliances.

- Open any doors leading out of the room you’re in, as they often get jammed shut, blocking your exit.

- Stay away from windows because of splintering glass. If you have time, draw the curtains to contain the glass.

- Don’t rush outside (many people are injured by falling masonry), but get under something solid, such as a ground-floor doorway, or a desk.

- If you are outside when the quake hits, head for the nearest park or other open space.

- If the earthquake occurs at night, make sure you’ve got a torch (all hotels, ryokan, etc provide flashlights in the rooms).

- When the tremors have died down, go to the nearest open space, taking your documents and other valuables with you. It’s also a good idea to take a cushion or pillow to protect your head against falling glass.

- Eventually, make your way to the designated neighbourhood emergency centre and get in touch with your embassy.

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Laundry

All hotels provide either a laundry service or, at the lower end, coin-operated machines. These typically cost ¥200–300 for a wash (powder ¥30–50) and ¥100–200 for ten minutes in the drier. You’ll also find coin-operated laundries (koin randorii) in nearly all Japanese neighbourhoods, often open long hours. Virtually all Japanese washing machines use cold water.

LGBTQ travellers

LGBTQ travellers should have few concerns about visiting Japan. The country has no laws against homosexual activity and outward discrimination is very rare, including at hotels and ryokan where two people of the same sex sharing a room will hardly raise an eyebrow.

That said, marriage remains an almost essential step on the career ladder, keeping many gay people in Japan in the closet, often leading double lives and/or being apathetic about concepts of LGBTQ liberation and rights. General codes of behaviour mean that public displays of affection between any couple, gay or straight, are very rare – so don’t expect a warm welcome if you walk down the street hand in hand or kiss in public. In recent times being part of the LGBTQ community has come to be seen as more acceptable – and among young people it’s rarely an issue – but Japan has a long way to go before it can be considered truly LGBTQ-friendly.

Useful online English sources of information on the capital’s gay life include Fridae ( fridae.com), Utopia ( utopia-asia.com) and the tri-lingual lesbian-focused Tokyo Wrestling ( tokyowrestling.com).

Living in Japan

Employment opportunities for foreigners have shrunk since the Japanese economy took a nosedive, though finding employment is far from impossible, especially if you have the right qualifications (a degree is essential) and appropriate visa.

Unless you take part in the working holiday visa programme, foreigners working in Japan must apply for a work visa outside the country, for which the proper sponsorship papers from your prospective employer will be necessary. Work visas do not need to be obtained in your home country, so if you get offered a job, it’s possible to sort out the paperwork in South Korea, for example. A few employers may be willing to hire you before the proper papers are sorted, but you shouldn’t rely on this, and if you arrive without a job make sure you have plenty of funds to live on until you find one. Anyone staying in Japan more than ninety days must also apply for residency status.

Teaching English

The most common job available to foreigners is teaching English. Some of the smaller schools are far from professional operations (and even the big ones get lots of complaints), so before signing any contract it’s a good idea to talk to other teachers and, if possible, attend a class and find out what will be expected of you. If you have a professional teaching qualification, plus experience, or if you also speak another language such as French or Italian, your chances of getting one of the better jobs will be higher.

Another option is to get a place on the government-run Japan Exchange and Teaching Programme (JET; jetprogramme.org), aimed at improving foreign-language teaching in schools and promoting international understanding. The scheme is open to graduates aged 40 and under, preferably holding some sort of language-teaching qualification. Benefits include a generous salary, help with accommodation, return air travel to Japan and paid holidays. Applying for the JET programme is a lengthy process for which you need to be well prepared. Application forms for the following year’s quota are available from late September, and the deadline for submission is early December. Interviews are held in January and February, with decisions made in March. After health checks and orientation meetings, JETs head off to their posts in late July on year-long contracts, which can be renewed for up to two more years by mutual consent.

Other jobs

A much more limited job option for gaijin is rewriting or editing English translations of Japanese text for technical documents, manuals, magazines and so on. For such jobs, it’s a great help if you know at least a little Japanese. These days, there are also good opportunities for gaijin with ski instructor or adventure sports experience to work on the ski slopes, particularly in resorts such as Niseko, Furano and Hakuba which target overseas visitors. Other options include modelling, for which it will be an asset to have a professional portfolio of photographs, and bar work and hostessing, with the usual warnings about the dangers inherent in this type of work. Whatever work you’re looking for – or if you’re doing any sort of business in Japan – a smart set of clothes will give you an advantage, as will following other general rules of social etiquette.

EMPLOYMENT RESOURCES

Daijob daijob.com. Japan’s largest bilingual jobs website – and a great pun to boot (daijobu means “no problem”).

GaijinPot gaijinpot.com. Classifieds focused on English-language teaching.

Japan Association for Working Holiday Makers jawhm.or.jp. Job referrals for people on working holiday visas.

Jobs in Japan jobsinjapan.com. Broad range of classified ads.

WWOOF (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) wwoofjapan.com. Opportunities to work and live on organic farms across Japan, plus a few hotels and resorts.

Studying Japanese language and culture

There are all sorts of opportunities to study Japanese language and culture. In order to get a student or cultural visa, you’ll need various documents from the institution where you plan to study and proof that you have sufficient funds to support yourself, among other things. Full-time courses are expensive, but once you have your visa, you may be allowed to undertake a minimal amount of paid work.

Japan’s Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT; www.mext.go.jp) offers various scholarships to foreign students wishing to further their knowledge of Japanese or Japanese studies, undertake an undergraduate degree, or become a research student at a Japanese university. You’ll find further information on the informative Study in Japan website ( www.studyjapan.go.jp), run by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, or by contacting your nearest Japanese embassy or consulate.

Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and other major cities have numerous Japanese language schools offering intensive and part-time courses. Among the most established are Berlitz ( berlitz.co.jp), with over thirty schools in central Tokyo; GenkiJACS ( genkijacs.com), whose Shinjuku branch is particularly popular with younger European students; and Tokyo Kogakuin Japanese Language School (5-30-16 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; 03 3352 3851, technos-jpschool.ac.jp). The monthly bilingual magazine Hiragana Times ( hiraganatimes.com) and the magazines Metropolis and Tokyo Journal also carry adverts for schools, or check out the Association for the Promotion of Japanese Language Education (2F Ishiyama Bldg, 1-58-1 Yoyogi, Shinjuku-ku; 03 4304 7815, www.nisshinkyo.org), whose website list accredited institutions.

Maps

The Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) tourist maps cover Tokyo, Kansai, Kyoto and the whole country. These are available for free at JNTO offices abroad and at Tourist Information Centres (TIC) in Japan, and are fine for most purposes. Tourist offices in other areas usually provide local maps, often dual-language. If you need anything more detailed, note that most bookshops sell maps, though you’ll only find English-language maps in the big cities. If you’re hiking, the best maps are those in the Yama-to-kōgen series, published by Shōbunsha but in Japanese only.

Note that maps on signboards in Japan, such as a map of footpaths in a national park, are usually oriented the way you are facing. So, if you’re facing southeast, for example, as you look at the map, the top will be southeast and the bottom northwest.

There are also decent maps online. Google’s are typically excellent, while with a little hunting you’ll be able to find apps offering offline-friendly maps ( maps.me is a good one). Perhaps equally useful are maps portraying the subway networks in Tokyo, Osaka and other major cities, since such maps are sometimes not visible anywhere once you’re on the trains themselves.

Money

The Japanese currency is the yen (en in Japanese). Notes are available in denominations of ¥1000, ¥2000, ¥5000 and ¥10,000, while coins come in values of ¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100 and ¥500. Apart from the ¥5 piece, a copper-coloured coin with a hole in the centre, all other notes and coins indicate their value in Western numerals.

EXCHANGE RATES

Exchange rates at the time of writing are as follows:

£1 = ¥136

€1 = ¥121

US$1 = ¥108

Can$1 = ¥81

Aus$1 = ¥74

NZ$1 = ¥71

For current exchange rates see xe.com

Though credit and debit cards are far more widely accepted than they were a few years ago, Japan is still very much a cash society. The most useful cards to carry are Visa and American Express, followed closely by MasterCard, then Diners Club; you should be able to use these in hotels, restaurants, shops and travel agencies accustomed to serving foreigners. However, many retailers only accept locally issued cards.

ATMs

The simplest way of obtaining cash in Japan is by making an ATM withdrawal on a credit or debit card. Both the post office and Seven Bank (whose machines are located in 7-Eleven stores) operate ATMs that accept foreign-issued cards. Post office machines accept Visa, PLUS, MasterCard, Maestro, Cirrus and American Express, with instructions provided in English; 7-Eleven ATMs accept all of these, too, and their hours of use are longer (often round the clock). Withdrawal limits will depend on the card issuer and your credit limit – if the machine doesn’t allow you to withdraw money in the first instance, try again with a smaller amount.

You’ll also find post office ATMs not only in post offices, but also in stations, department stores and the like throughout the country – they’re identified with a sticker saying “International ATM Service”. Their ATMs have more restricted hours than the Seven Bank machines, but the ones in major post offices can be accessed at weekends and after the counters have closed, though none are open round the clock.

Changing money

You can change cash at the exchange counters (ryōgae-jo; 両替所) of main post offices and certain banks – the bigger branches of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ ( bk.mufg.jp/english) and SMBC (Sumitomo Mitsubishi Banking Corporation; www.smbcgroup.com) are your best bet. The post office handles cash in six major currencies, including American, Canadian and Australian dollars, sterling and euros. Hotels are only supposed to change money for guests, but some might be persuaded to help in an emergency. Remember to take your passport along in case it’s needed, and allow plenty of time, since even a simple transaction can take twenty minutes or more. Banks or exchange counters are listed throughout the Guide in destinations where there are no ATMS accepting foreign cards, or where obtaining money is particularly difficult.

Opening hours and public holidays

Business hours are generally Monday to Friday 9am–5pm, though private companies often close much later in the evening and may also open on Saturday mornings. Department stores and bigger shops tend to open around 10am and shut at 7pm or 8pm. Local shops, however, will generally stay open later, while many convenience stores are open 24 hours. Most shops take one day off a week, not necessarily on a Sunday.

The majority of museums close on a Monday, but stay open on Sundays and national holidays (closing the following day instead); last entry is normally thirty minutes before closing. However, during the New Year festival (January 1–3), Golden Week (April 29–May 5) and Obon (the week around August 15), almost everything shuts down. Around these periods, all transport and accommodation is booked out weeks in advance, and all major tourist spots get overrun.

Phones

You’re rarely far from a payphone in Japan. The vast majority of payphones take both coins (¥10 and ¥100) and phonecards; they don’t give change, but do return unused coins, so for local calls use ¥10 rather than ¥100 coins.

Everywhere in Japan has an area code, which can be omitted if the call is a local one. Area codes are given for all telephone numbers throughout this Guide. Toll-free numbers begin with either 0120 or 0088; in a few cases you may come across codes such as 0570, which are non-geographical and should always be included with the main number wherever you’re calling from. Numbers starting with 080 or 090 are to mobile phones.

Mobile phones

Practically everyone in Japan has a mobile phone (keitai-denwa, sometimes shortened to keitai), many of which can be used like a prepaid travel card on trains, subways and in shops.

Most foreign models will work in Japan – contact your mobile phone service provider before leaving your home country. It recently became possible to buy pay-as-you-go SIM cards from the major service providers (or nationwide electronics chains such as Yodobashi Camera and BIC Camera). Another solution for short-term visitors is to rent a phone at the airport, in Tokyo or online; options include B-Mobile ( www.bmobile.ne.jp/english), who also rent out data cards for internet access on your laptop. Other mobile phone operators include the predominant DoCoMo ( www.nttdocomo.co.jp), and Softbank ( softbank.jp/en), both of which have rental booths at Narita Airport.

Alternatively, around all major stations (especially those on the Yamanote line) you’ll be able to track down outlets selling pocket wi-fi “eggs”; plans with a decent amount of data tend to cost ¥750 per day, up to ¥10,000 for a month (check online at en.wifi-rental-store.jp, or pupuruwifi.com).

Post

Japan’s mail service is highly efficient and fast, with post offices (yūbinkyoku) all over the country, easily identified by their red-and-white signs – a T with a parallel bar across the top, the same symbol that you’ll find on the red letterboxes. All post can be addressed in Western script (rōmaji), provided it’s clearly printed.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

If one of the holidays listed below falls on a Sunday, then the following Monday is also a holiday.

New Year’s Day Jan 1

Coming of Age Day Second Mon of Jan

National Foundation Day Feb 11

Emperor’s Birthday Feb 23

Spring Equinox March 20/21

Shōwa Day April 29

Constitution Memorial Day May 3

Greenery Day May 4

Children’s Day May 5

Marine Day Third Mon of July

Respect the Aged Day Third Mon of Sept

Autumn Equinox Sept 23/24

Health and Sports Day Second Mon of Oct

Culture Day Nov 3

Labour Thanksgiving Day Nov 23

In urban post offices there are separate counters, with English signs, for postal and banking services. If you need to send bulkier items or parcels back home, you can get reasonably priced special envelopes and boxes for packaging from any post office. The maximum weight for an overseas parcel is 30kg (less for some destinations). A good compromise between expensive airmail and slow sea mail is Surface Air Lifted (SAL) mail, which takes around three weeks to reach most destinations, and costs somewhere between the two. For English-language information about postal services, including postal fees, see the Post Office website ( post.japanpost.jp).

Central post offices generally open Monday–Friday 9am–7pm, Saturday 9am–5pm and Sunday 9am–12.30pm, with most other branches opening Monday–Friday 9am–5pm only. A few larger branches may also open on a Saturday from 9am to 3pm, and may operate after-hours services for parcels and express mail.

For sending parcels and baggage around Japan, take advantage of the excellent, inexpensive takuhaibin (or takkyūbin, as it’s more commonly known) or courier delivery services, which can be arranged at most convenience stores, hotels and some youth hostels. These services – which typically cost under ¥2000 – are especially handy if you want to send luggage (usually up to 20kg) on to places where you’ll be staying later in your journey or to the airport to be picked up prior to your departure.

Smoking

Many visitors to Japan are quite taken aback by how much smoke they’re forced to inhale on a daily basis – notoriously conservative at the best of times, the country has, so far, failed to move with developed-nation norms in such regards. Smoking is banned on nearly all public transport (you’ll find smoking rooms and carriages on some trains, though, as well as most airports) and in most public buildings, shops and offices; in restaurants, bars, izakaya, cafés and even some hotel lobbies, however, you’re likely to be inhaling smoke. An increasing number of cities are clamping down on smoking in the street, though smokers can light up in designated areas – look for the smoke-swathed huddle around the pavement ashtrays. Fines for smoking where it’s prohibited typically start at ¥2000, though at the moment you are more likely to get away with a warning.

Time

The whole of Japan is nine hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, so at noon in London it’s 9pm in Tokyo. Japan is fourteen hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the US. There is no daylight saving, so during British Summer Time, for example, the difference drops to eight hours.

Tipping

Tipping is not expected in Japan (the exception being upmarket Western restaurants and top hotels, which may add a service charge, typically ten percent). If someone’s been particularly helpful, the best approach is to give a small present, or offer some money discreetly in an envelope.

Tourist information

The Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO; jnto.go.jp) maintains a number of overseas offices (see below). Within Japan, JNTO operates Tourist Information Centres (TIC), all of which have English-speaking staff, in central Tokyo, Tokyo’s Narita and Haneda airports and Kansai International Airport. Though staff will help sort out routes and timetables, they can’t make travel reservations or usually sell tickets to theatres, cinemas and so on; instead, they’ll direct you to the nearest appropriate outlet.

Government-run tourist information offices (観光案内所; kankō annaijo), many with English-speaking staff, can be seen in all major towns and cities and in the prime tourist destinations; you’ll find a full list on the JNTO website. These offices are usually located in or close to the main train station or in the city centre; look out for the signs. In practice, the amount of English information available – whether written or spoken – is a bit hit and miss, but staff should be able to assist with local maps, hotel reservations and simple queries. There are also ordinary local tourist information offices: practically every town has these, though there’s only a slim chance of getting English-language assistance.

JNTO OFFICES ABROAD

Australia Suite 1, Level 4, 56 Clarence St, Sydney ( 02 9279 2177, jnto.org.au).

Canada 481 University Ave, Suite 306, Toronto ( 416 366 7140, ilovejapan.ca).

UK 5th Floor, 12/13 Nicholas Lane, London ( 020 7398 5670, japan.travel).

US 11 West 42nd St, 19th Floor, New York ( 212 757 5640, japantravelinfo.com); 340 E. 2nd St, Little Tokyo Plaza, Suite 302, Los Angeles ( 213 623 1952).

Travellers with disabilities

Disability has always been something of an uncomfortable topic in Japan, with disabled people generally hidden from public view. In recent years, however, there has been a certain shift in public opinion, particularly in the wake of the bestseller No One’s Perfect by Ototake Hirotada, the upbeat, forthright autobiography of a 23-year-old student born without arms or legs. Hopefully, Tokyo’s hosting of the 2020 Paralympics will provide a further push in the right direction.

The government is spearheading a drive to provide more accessible hotels and other facilities (referred to as “barrier-free” in Japan). All train and subway stations now have an extra-wide manned ticket gate and an increasing number have escalators or lifts. Some trains, such as the Narita Express, have spaces for wheelchair users, but you should reserve well in advance. For travelling short distances, taxis are an obvious solution, though they are not adapted to take wheelchairs, and few drivers will offer help getting in or out of the car.

Hotels are required to provide accessible facilities. Your best bet is one of the international chains or modern Western-style business hotels, which are most likely to provide fully adapted rooms, ramps and lifts; check ahead to ensure the facilities meet your requirements. Similarly, most modern shopping complexes, museums and other public buildings are equipped with ramps, wide doors and accessible toilets.

CALLING HOME FROM ABROAD

The main companies in Japan offering international phone calls are KDDI ( 001), Softbank Telecom ( 010) and NTT ( 0033). If you want to call abroad from Japan from any type of phone, choose a company (there’s little difference between them all as far as rates are concerned) and dial the relevant access code, then the destination’s country code, before the rest of the number. Note that the initial zero is omitted from the area code when dialling the UK, Ireland, Australia and New Zealand from abroad. For operator assistance for overseas calls, dial 0051.

Australia international access code + 61

New Zealand international access code + 64

UK international access code + 44

US and Canada international access code + 1

Ireland international access code + 353

South Africa international access code + 27

GOODWILL GUIDES

A useful source of English-language information is the Goodwill Guides, groups of volunteer guides, mostly in central and western Japan, who offer their services free – although you’re expected to pay for their transport, entry tickets and any meals you have together. Their language abilities vary, but they do provide a great opportunity to learn more about Japanese culture and to visit local restaurants, shops and so forth with a Japanese-speaker. You’ll find the groups listed on the JNTO website, jnto.go.jp. Otherwise, tourist information offices can usually provide contact details of local groups and may be willing to help with arrangements; try to give at least two days’ notice.

While things are improving, Tokyo is not an easy place to get around for anyone using a wheelchair, or for those who find it difficult to negotiate stairs or walk long distances. Although it’s usually possible to organize assistance at stations, you’ll need a Japanese-speaker to phone ahead and make the arrangements. For further information and help, contact the Japanese Red Cross Society (1-1-3 Shiba Daimon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8521). You’ll find useful information on their website ( accessible.jp.org).

< Back to Basics

Alamy

TORII AT HIE-JINJA

Tokyo

The Imperial Palace and around

Ginza and around

Akihabara and around

Ueno and around

Asakusa and around

Bayside Tokyo

Akasaka and Roppongi

Ebisu, Meguro and the south

Harajuku, Aoyama and Shibuya

Shinjuku and the west

Ikebukuro and the north

Tokyo

With its sushi and sumo, geisha and gardens, neon and noodles, it may seem that Tokyo is in danger of collapsing under the weight of its own stereotypes. Yet ticking off a bunch of travel clichés is rarely this much fun, and as you might expect of the planet’s largest metropolis, there’s also enough nuance here to keep you entertained for a lifetime. Ordered yet bewildering, Japan’s pulsating capital will lead you a merry dance: this is Asia at its weirdest, straightest, prettiest, sleaziest and coolest, all at the same time.

Caught up in an untidy web of overhead cables, plagued by seemingly incessant noise, the concrete and steel conurbation may seem the stereotypical urban nightmare. Yet step back from the frenetic main roads and chances are you’ll find yourself in tranquil backstreets, where dinky wooden houses are fronted by neatly clipped bonsai trees. Wander beyond the hi-tech emporia, and you’ll discover charming fragments of the old city such as temples and shrines wreathed in wisps of smoking incense.

Centuries of organizing itself around the daily demands of millions of inhabitants have made Tokyo something of a model metropolitan environment. Trains run on time and to practically every corner of the city, crime is hardly worth worrying about, and shops and vending machines provide everything you could need (and many things you never thought you did) 24 hours a day.

With so much going on, just walking the streets of this hyperactive city can be an energizing experience. It need not be an expensive one, either. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by how affordable many things are. Cheap-and-cheerful izakaya – bars that serve food – and casual cafés serving noodles and rice dishes are plentiful, the metro is a bargain, and tickets for a sumo tournament or a kabuki play can be bought for the price of a few drinks.

Browsing the shops and marvelling at the passing parade is mesmerizing – the next best thing to having a ringside seat at the hippest of catwalk shows. The city’s great wealth and relative lack of planning restrictions have given architects almost unparalleled freedom to realize their wildest dreams. Likewise, in uber-chic bars, restaurants and clubs you’ll see today what the rest of the world will get tomorrow. You may not figure out exactly what makes Tokyo tick – and you’re sure to get a little confused while trying – but the conclusion is inescapable: Japan’s powerhouse capital is a seductive and addictive experience.

Brief history

The city’s founding date is usually given as 1457, when minor lord Ōta Dōkan built his castle on a bluff overlooking the Sumida-gawa and the bay. However, a far more significant event occurred in 1590, when the feudal lord Tokugawa Ieyasu chose the obscure castle town for his power base. He seized control of the whole of Japan ten years later, reuniting the country’s warring clans and taking the title of shogun – effectively a military dictator. Though the Emperor continued to hold court in Kyoto, Japan’s real centre of power would henceforth lie in Edo, at this point still little more than a small huddle of buildings at the edge of the Hibiya inlet.

The Edo era

By 1640 Edo Castle was the most imposing in all Japan, complete with a five-storey central keep, a double moat and a spiralling network of canals. The daimyō (feudal lords), who were required by the shogun to spend part of each year in Edo, were granted large plots for their estates on the higher ground to the west of the castle, an area that became known as Yamanote. Artisans, merchants and other lower classes were confined to Shitamachi (literally, “low town”), a low-lying, overcrowded region to the east. Though growing less distinct, this division between the “high” and “low” city is still apparent today.

Tim Draper

SENSO-JI

Highlights

Asakusa Bustling Sensō-ji temple is at the heart of Tokyo’s most colourful and evocative district, packed with craft shops, traditional inns and restaurants.

Roppongi Art Triangle Tokyo’s art scene is the envy of the rest of Asia – for a primer, make a hop between the three major galleries constituting the “Art Triangle”.

Meiji-jingū Escape the urban clamour amid the verdant grounds of the city’s most venerable Shintō shrine.

Harajuku Packed with boutiques, cafés and trendy brunch spots, this youthful area is a breeding ground for the Japanese fashions of tomorrow – and those too strange ever to hit the mainstream.

Shinjuku Tokyo in microcosm, from the tiny bars of Golden Gai to the Gotham City-like Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.

Ghibli Museum Most visitors will have seen at least one Studio Ghibli anime – get behind the scenes at this imaginative museum.

Sky restaurants Many of Tokyo’s tallest towers are topped with restaurants: head to Hibiki or the New York Grill for prime views of this famously high-rise city.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

During two centuries of peace, when Edo grew to be the most populous city in the world, life down in the Shitamachi buzzed with a wealthy merchant class and a vigorous, often bawdy, subculture of geisha and kabuki, of summer days on the Sumida-gawa, moon-viewing parties and picnics under the spring blossom. Inevitably, there was also squalor, poverty and violence, as well as frequent fires; in January 1657, the Fire of the Long Sleeves laid waste to three-quarters of the city’s buildings and killed an estimated 100,000 people. This came just after Japan adopted a policy of national seclusion, which was to last for over 200 years.

The Meiji era

In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry of the US Navy landed just west of Tokyo with a small fleet of “Black Ships”, demanding that Japan open at least some of its ports to foreigners. A year after the subsequent Meiji Restoration, in 1868, the Emperor took up permanent residence in the city, now renamed Tokyo (Eastern Capital) in recognition of its proper status. As Japan quickly embraced Western technologies, the face of Tokyo gradually changed: the castle lost much of its grounds, canals were filled in or built over, and Shitamachi’s wealthier merchants decamped to more desirable Yamanote. In addition, brick buildings, electric lights, trams, trains and then cars all made their first appearance in Tokyo around this time.

The twentieth century

The city remained disaster-prone: in 1923 the Great Kantō Earthquake devastated half of Tokyo and 100,000 people perished. More trauma was to come during World War II. In just three days of sustained incendiary bombing in March 1945, hundreds of thousands were killed and great swathes of the city burnt down, including Meiji-jingū, Sensō-ji, Edo Castle and most of Shitamachi. From a prewar population of nearly seven million, Tokyo was reduced to around three million people in a state of near-starvation. This time, regeneration was fuelled by an influx of American dollars and food aid under the Allied Occupation, plus a manufacturing boom sparked by the Korean War in 1950.

TOKYO ORIENTATION

Tokyo is even bigger than you might think – technically, it spreads from the mountains in the north and west to a chain of tropical islands some 1300km away in the south. However, as a visitor you’re unlikely to stray beyond its most central municipalities, or wards (ku in Japanese); a useful reference point is the Yamanote line, an overland train loop that encloses the city centre and connects most places of interest to visitors.

At the very centre of Tokyo sits the Imperial Palace, the city’s spiritual heart. East of here, the wider Ginza district forms the heart of downtown Tokyo, functioning as its main shopping and financial centre. Just to the north lies Akihabara, a tech-lover’s paradise and home to most of the city’s famed maid cafés; north again, the parks, museums and zoo in Ueno make for a great day out. East towards the river, spellbinding Asakusa is Tokyo’s most traditional district, with temples and craft shops at every turn. A boat ride down the Sumida-gawa will bring you to Bayside Tokyo, where skyscraper-filled islands rise from the sea. Back inland are the neighbouring disticts of Akasaka and Roppongi, the latter particularly notable for its galleries and nightlife. South of central Tokyo, Ebisu is home to some of the city’s main hipster hangouts; north of here the action takes a turn for the hectic in Harajuku, Aoyama and Shibuya, before going all Blade Runner in Shinjuku, the very epitome of rushed-off-its-feet Tokyo. Lastly, north of the centre is the busy Ikebukuro district, with some diverting nearby sights.

By the time Emperor Hirohito opened the Tokyo Olympic Games in October 1964, Tokyo was truly back on its feet and visitors were wowed by the stunning new Shinkansen trains running west to Osaka. The economy boomed well into the late 1980s, when Tokyo land prices reached dizzying heights, matched by excesses of every conceivable sort.

In 1991, the financial bubble burst. This, along with revelations of political corruption, financial mismanagement and the release of deadly Sarin gas on Tokyo commuter trains by the AUM cult in 1995, led to a more sober Tokyo in the late 1990s.

Tokyo today

In the new millennium, as the economy recovered, so did the city’s vitality. Events such as the 2002 World Cup, growing interest in Japanese pop culture and the thriving food scene have contributed to more curious overseas visitors heading to Tokyo, with some staying on, making the capital feel more cosmopolitan than ever before. District after district has undergone a structural makeover, starting with Roppongi and Shiodome back in 2003. One of the latest mega-developments is at Oshiage east of the Sumida-gawa, where the Tokyo Skytree is Japan’s tallest structure; another great glut of building followed in the run-up to the 2020 Olympic Games.

The Imperial Palace and around

A vast chunk of central Tokyo is occupied by the Imperial Palace, home to the Emperor and his family. The surrounding public gardens provide a gentle introduction to the city, giving a glimpse of its origins as a castle town. The most attractive of these is Higashi Gyoen, where remnants of the seventeenth-century Edo Castle still stand amid formal gardens, while to its north Kitanomaru-kōen is a more natural park containing the excellent National Museum of Modern Art. Just outside the park’s northern perimeter, the nation’s war dead are remembered at the controversial shrine of Yasukuni-jinja.

East of the palace, Marunouchi has enjoyed a stylish reinvention of late, with the opening of several new shopping and restaurant complexes, and the recent redevelopment of Tokyo Station and its environs. To the south is Yūrakuchō, which – like Marunouchi – is home to theatres, airline offices, banks and corporate headquarters; and the adjoining district of Hibiya, centred around a Western-style park.

The Imperial Palace

皇居, Kōkyo • Entrance off Uchibori-dōri • Access to grounds by official tour only; apply online and bring your passport • Tues–Sat 10am & 1.30pm • 75min • Free • 03 3213 1111, sankan.kunaicho.go.jp • Sakuradamon or Nijūbashimae stations

Huge and windswept, the Imperial Plaza forms a protective island in front of the modern Imperial Palace, the site of which is as old as Tokyo itself. Edo Castle was built here by Ōta Dōkan in 1457, and its boundaries fluctuated through the following centuries; at its greatest extent, the castle walls also surrounded what is now Tokyo Station, as well as parts of present-day Marunouchi.

Follow the groups of local tourists straggling across the broad avenues to Nijūbashi, one of the palace’s most photogenic corners, where two bridges span the moat and a jaunty little watchtower perches on its grey stone pedestal beyond. Though this double bridge is a late nineteenth-century embellishment, the tower dates back to the seventeenth century and is one of the castle’s few original structures.

Except for the two days a year when Nijūbashi can be crossed (on February 23 – the Emperor’s birthday – and on January 2), admission to the palace grounds is possible only on pre-arranged official tours, conducted in Japanese but with English-language brochures and audio guides available. The present-day incarnation of the palace is a long, sleek, 1960s structure, built to replace the nineteenth-century Meiji palace building, which burnt down in the 1945 bombing raids.

Higashi Gyoen

東御苑 • East entrance off Uchibori-dōri, north entrance opposite National Museum of Modern Art • Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–4pm (closed occasionally for court functions) • Free tokens issued at park entrance; hand back on exit • Ōtemachi or Takebashi stations

Though there’s little to evoke the former glory of the shogunate’s castle beyond some formidable gates and towering granite walls, Higashi Gyoen (East Garden) is a good place for a stroll. You’ll likely enter via Ōte-mon, the eastern gate to the garden – and formerly to Edo Castle itself. At the southern end of the garden lies its finest remaining watchtower, the three-tiered Fujimi-yagura, built in 1659 to protect the citadel’s southern flank. From here, a path winds gently up, beneath the walls of the main citadel, and then climbs more steeply towards Shiomizaka, the “Tide-Viewing Slope”, from where it was once possible to gaze out over Edo Bay. You emerge on a flat grassy area, empty apart from the stone foundations of Honmaru (the “inner citadel”), with fine views from the top.

DESCENDANTS OF THE SUN GODDESS

Emperor Naruhito, the 126th incumbent of the Chrysanthemum Throne, traces his ancestry back to 660 BC and Emperor Jimmu, great-great-grandson of the mythological Sun Goddess Amaterasu. Most scholars, however, acknowledge that the first Emperor for whom there is any historical evidence is the fifth-century Emperor Ojin.

Until the twentieth century, Emperors were regarded as living deities whom ordinary folk were forbidden to set eyes on, or even hear. Japan’s defeat in World War II ended all that and today the Emperor is a symbolic figure, a head of state with no governmental power. While he was crown prince, Emperor Emeritus Akihito had an American tutor and studied at Tokyo’s elite Gakushūin University, followed by a stint at Oxford University. In 1959 he broke further with tradition by marrying a commoner, Shōda Michiko.

Akihito’s son, Naruhito, followed in his father’s footsteps in 1993 by marrying high-flying, Harvard-educated diplomat Owada Masako. Current Japanese law prohibits a female succession, and as such the couple came under intense media scrutiny when failing to produce a male heir; the crown princess gave birth to a baby girl, Aiko, in 2001, but a constitutional amendment was averted when Naruhito’s younger brother Akishino gave birth to a boy, Hisahito, in 2006.

In August 2016, Akihito gave only his second-ever televised address, mentioning his health problems and advancing age, and hinting at an extremely rare Japanese abdication. This duly came to pass in 2019, when he handed over the Chrysanthemum Throne to its 126th incumbent, Naruhito, thus ushering in the Reiwa period.

Kitanomaru-kōen

北の丸公園 • North entrance off Yasukuni-dōri • 24hr • Free • Kudanshita or Takebashi stations

Edo Castle’s old northern citadel is now occupied by the park of Kitanomaru-kōen. With its ninety-odd cherry trees, it’s a popular viewing spot come hanami time, while rowing boats can be rented in warmer months on Chidoriga-fuchi, an ancient pond once incorporated into Edo Castle’s moat. These natural pleasures aside, the park is also home to a couple of interesting museums and the Budōkan arena.

National Museum of Modern Art

国立近代美術館, Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, Fri & Sat 10am–8pm • ¥500, or ¥300 after 5pm Fri & Sat; extra fees apply for special exhibitions • 03 5777 8600, momat.go.jp

Located on the southern perimeter of the park is the National Museum of Modern Art. Strewn over three large levels, its excellent permanent collection showcases Japanese art since 1900, as well as a few pieces of work from overseas; the former includes Gyokudo Kawai’s magnificent screen painting Parting Spring and works by Kishida Ryūsei, Fujita Tsuguharu and postwar artists such as Yoshihara Jirō. On the fourth floor you’ll find the earliest works, as well as a resting area with fantastic views over the moat and palace grounds.

Crafts Gallery

工芸館, Kōgeikan • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥210; usually ¥900 for special exhibitions • 03 5777 8600, momat.go.jp

Tucked away on the west side of Kitanomaru-kōen, the Crafts Gallery exhibits a selection of top-quality traditional Japanese craft works, many by modern masters. Erected in 1910 as the headquarters of the Imperial Guards, this neo-Gothic red-brick pile is one of very few Tokyo buildings dating from before the Great Earthquake of 1923 – it looks like the kind of place Harry Potter would have gone to school, had he been Japanese.

THE PROBLEM WITH YASUKUNI

Ever since its foundation as part of a Shintō revival promoting the new Emperor, Yasukuni-jinja has been a place of high controversy. In its early years the shrine became a natural focus for the increasingly aggressive nationalism that ultimately took Japan to war in 1941. Then, in 1978, General Tōjō, prime minister during World War II, and thirteen other “Class A” war criminals were enshrined here, to be honoured along with all the other military dead. Japan’s neighbours, still smarting from their treatment by the Japanese during the war, were outraged.

This has not stopped top politicians from visiting Yasukuni on the anniversary of Japan’s defeat in World War II (August 15). Because Japan’s postwar constitution requires the separation of state and religion, ministers have usually maintained that they attend as private individuals, but in 1985 Nakasone, in typically uncompromising mood, caused uproar when he signed the visitors’ book as “Prime Minister”. Recent PMs have continued to visit Yasukuni – always in an “unofficial” capacity – despite continued protests both at home and abroad.

Yasukuni-jinja

靖国神社 • Entrance off Yasukuni-dōri • Daily: March–Oct 6am–6pm; Nov–Feb 6am–5pm • Free • yasukuni.or.jp • Kudanshita or Ichigaya stations

A monumental red steel torii, claimed to be Japan’s tallest, marks the entrance to Yasukuni-jinja. This shrine, whose name means “for the repose of the country”, was founded in 1869 to worship supporters of the Emperor killed in the run-up to the Meiji Restoration. Since then it has expanded to include the legions sacrificed in subsequent wars, in total nearly 2.5 million souls, of whom some two million died in the Pacific War alone; the parting words of kamikaze pilots were said to be “see you at Yasukuni”. Every year some eight million Japanese visit this shrine, which controversially includes several war criminals.

Standing at the end of a long avenue lined with cherry and ginkgo trees and accessed through a simple wooden gate, the architecture is classic Shintō styling, solid and unadorned except for two gold imperial chrysanthemums embossed on the main doors.

Yūshūkan

遊就館 • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥1000 • 03 3261 8326

To the right of the inner shrine you’ll find the Yūshūkan, a military museum established in 1882. The displays are well presented, but the intrigue lies as much in what is left out as in what is included. Events such as the Nanking Massacre (“Incident” in Japanese) and other atrocities by Japanese troops are glossed over, while the Pacific War is presented as a war of liberation, freeing the peoples of Southeast Asia from Western colonialism. The most moving displays are the ranks of faded photographs and the “bride dolls” donated by the families of young soldiers who died before they were married. You exit through a hall full of military hardware, including a replica of the glider used by kamikaze pilots on their suicide missions, its nose elongated to carry a 1200kg bomb, while a spine-chilling, black kaiten (manned torpedo) lours to one side.

Marunouchi

丸の内

Due north of Ginza, the business-focused MARUNOUCHI district has lately been transformed from a dull stretch of offices to a dynamic, tourist-friendly location. A major programme of construction and development – including the restoration of Tokyo Station’s original handsome red-brick structure, has added swish shopping plazas, restaurants and cafés to the area.

Mitsubishi Ichigōkan Museum

三菱一号館美術館 • 2-6-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku • Daily 10am–6pm, Fri and final week of each exhibition until 9pm • Price depends on exhibition – usually ¥1700, with ¥200 discount to foreign tourists with ID • 03 5405 8686, mimt.jp • Tokyo or Nijūbashimae stations

Worth a look for its design as much as its contents, the Mitsubishi Ichigōkan Museum is housed in a meticulous reconstruction of a red-brick office block designed by British architect Josiah Conder; the original was erected on the same site in 1894, only to be demolished in 1968. Exhibitions rotate every four months or so, and almost exclusively focus on nineteenth-century European art, usually of a pretty high calibre.

Intermediatheque

インターメディアテク • 2-3F Kitte Building, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku • Mon–Thurs & Sun 11am–6pm, Fri & Sat 11am–8pm; closed a few days per month • Free • 03 5777 8600, intermediatheque.jp • Tokyo Station

The double-level Intermediatheque is, without doubt, one of the most intriguing museum spaces in the city, hosting exhibitions that are sharply curated and pieced together with a rare attention to aesthetic detail. The permanent exhibition is a well-presented mishmash of various objects of scientific and cultural heritage accumulated by the University of Tokyo; the animal skeletons are the most eye-catching exhibits, but poke around and you’ll find everything from Central American headwear to objects damaged by the nuclear explosions in Nagasaki. Before you leave the building, check out the garden up on the roof.

Yūrakuchō and Hibiya

有楽町 • 日比谷

South of Marunouchi lies Yūrakuchō, a high-rise district that’s home to yet more giant pieces of urban furniture. Most notable is the arresting Tokyo International Forum, a stunning creation by American architect Rafael Viñoly, which hosts concerts and conventions. Head south from Yūrakuchō and you’ll soon be in the Hibiya district, highlight of which is Tokyo’s first European-style park, Hibiya-kōen (日比谷公園), a refreshing oasis of greenery.

Idemitsu Museum of Arts

出光美術館, Idemitsu Bijutsukan • 9F Teigeki Building, 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, Fri until 7pm • ¥1000 • 03 5777 8600, idemitsu-museum.or.jp • Hibiya or Yūrakuchō stations

Sitting above the Imperial Theatre, the Idemitsu Museum of Arts houses a magnificent collection of mostly Japanese art, though only a tiny proportion is on show at any one time. Its historically important pieces range from early Jōmon (10,000 BC–300 BC) pottery to late seventeenth-century ukiyo-e paintings.

Ginza and around

Although now a couple of decades past its heyday, Ginza’s glut of luxury malls and flagship stores remains the envy of Tokyo; umpteen bars, restaurants and cafés still reverberate with distinct echoes of the “bubble period”, a time in which Tokyo itself was the envy of the rest of the world. Factor in a sprinkling of great museums and galleries, and the sights of the neighbouring districts of Nihombashi and Shiodome, and you’re set for the day.

Ginza

銀座

GINZA, the “place where silver is minted”, took its name after Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu started making coins here in the early 1600s. It was a happy association – one street, Chūō-dōri, grew to become Tokyo’s most stylish shopping thoroughfare. Though some of its shine has faded and cutting-edge fashion has moved elsewhere, Ginza still retains much of its elegance and undoubted snob appeal. Here you’ll find the greatest concentration of exclusive shops and restaurants in the city, the most theatres and cinemas, branches of major department stores and a fair number of art galleries.

ON THE ART TRAIL IN GINZA

Though a little short on tourist sights, Ginza is the bastion of Tokyo’s commercial galleries – there are enough of them here to keep you busy for a full day.

Ginza Graphic Gallery 7-7-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 5206, www.dnp.co.jp/gallery/ggg; Ginza Station. Single-room space hosting monthly exhibitions that cover – for the most part – graphic design work from the best of Japan’s creators. Closes for a few days between shows. Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 11am–6pm.

Maison Hermès 8F 5-4-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3569 3611, maisonhermes.jp/ginza; Ginza Station. Possibly the most charming gallery space in all Tokyo, set at the top of the Renzo Piano-designed “bubble-wrap” building that’s home to the high-end fashion behemoth’s Tokyo boutique. Worth a look whatever the exhibit – the gallery usually hosts themed shows of Japanese and international art. Daily 11am–7pm.

Shiseidō Gallery B1F 8-8-3 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3572 3901, shiseidogroup.jp/gallery; Shimbashi or Ginza stations. Located in the distinctive red showroom of the eponymous Japanese cosmetics giant, this small basement gallery hosts group and solo shows – some well worth a look, others merely so-so. Tues–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun 11am–6pm.

Tokyo Gallery + BTAP 7F 8-10-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 1808, tokyo-gallery.com; Shimbashi Station. Dating back to 1950, Tokyo Gallery shows cutting-edge work from the Chinese and Korean contemporary art scenes (they have a branch in Beijing). Tues–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 11am–5pm.

Chūō-dōri is the main shopping street, while Harumi-dōri cuts across the centre from the east. The two roads meet at a famed intersection known as Ginza Yon-chōme crossing, which marks the heart of Ginza: awesome at rush hour, this spot often features in films and documentaries as the epitome of this overcrowded yet totally efficient city.

Ginza Sony Park

銀座ソニーパーク • 5-3-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku • Daily 24hr • Free • www.ginzasonypark.jp • Ginza Station

A technophile’s dream for decades, Ginza’s iconic Sony Building was brought down in 2017. Its replacement is due to open in 2022, but until then you’ll have to content yourself with the Ginza Sony Park, a “three-dimensional” public space hosting occasional events, plus a few places to eat and drink.

Kabukiza Theatre

歌舞伎座 • 4-12-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku • Gallery open daily 11am–7pm • Free • kabuki-za.co.jp • Higashi-Ginza Station

The famed Kabukiza Theatre is one of Ginza’s most iconic buildings. First opened in 1889, the theatre has been rebuilt several times, a victim of fires and war damage. The architect behind its most recent incarnation is Kengo Kuma, who reinstated the elaborate facade of the original, which burned down in 1921; backed by a modern 29-storey office block, this is classic “city of contrasts” territory. Catch a play or simply check out the fifth-floor gallery, with its wonderful display of kabuki costumes.

Nihombashi

日本橋

North of Ginza, NIHOMBASHI was once the heart of Edo’s teeming Shitamachi, growing from a cluster of riverside markets in the early seventeenth century to become the city’s chief financial district. The early warehouses and moneylenders subsequently evolved into the banks, brokers and trading companies that line the streets today. Other than the bridge at its heart – Japan’s kilometre zero – the area’s museums are the main reason to visit.

Artizon Museum of Art

ブリヂストン美術館, Burijisuton Bijutsukan • 1-7-2 Kyōbashi, Chūō-ku • Tues–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri till 10pm • Fees varies by exhibition • 03 3563 0241, artizon.museum • Tokyo, Kyōbashi or Nihombashi stations

The Bridgestone Museum of Art was renamed the Artizon Museum of Art and reopened in 2020 following major renovations. The museum is home to an impressive collection of paintings by Van Gogh, Renoir, Degas, Monet, Manet, Miró, Picasso and other heavyweights, as well as Meiji-era Japanese paintings in Western style – it’s well worth swinging by.

Mitsui Memorial Museum

三井記念美術館, Mitsui Kinen Bijutsukan • 7F Mitsui Main Building, 2-1-1 Nihombashi Muromachi, Chūō-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥1000, or ¥1300 for special exhibitions • 03 5777 8600, mitsui-museum.jp • Mitsukoshimae Station

Just north of the main branch of the Mitsukoshi department store is the Mitsui Memorial Museum, where a superb collection spanning three hundred years of Japanese and Asian art is on display. Changing exhibitions follow a seasonal theme, but are usually aimed at the connoisseur.

Shiodome

汐留

South of Ginza is Shiodome, where a clutch of sparkling skyscrapers harbour hotels and restaurants. From Shiodome, it’s an easy walk to the Hama Rikyū Onshi Teien traditional garden or the Tsukiji fish market; you can also pick up the monorail to Odaiba from here.

Hama Rikyū Onshi Teien

浜離宮恩賜庭園 • 1-1 Hamarikyūteien, Chūō-ku • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥300; tea ¥510 • Shiodome Station

The beautifully designed traditional garden of Hama Rikyū Onshi Teien once belonged to the shogunate, who hunted ducks here. These days the ducks are protected inside the garden’s nature reserve, and no longer used for target practice. Next to the entrance is a sprawling, 300-year-old pine tree and a manicured lawn dotted with sculpted, stunted trees. There are three ponds, the largest spanned by a trellis-covered bridge that leads to a floating teahouse, Nakajima-no-Chaya; in early spring lilac wisteria hangs in fluffy bunches from trellises around the central pond. From the Tokyo Bay side of the garden, there’s a view across to the Rainbow Bridge, and you can see the floodgate which regulates how much sea water flows in and out of the ponds with the tides.

By far the nicest way of approaching the gardens is to take a ferry from Asakusa, down the Sumida-gawa; often the entry price is included with the ticket.

Akihabara and around

秋葉原

Up the tracks from the Ginza area, a blaze of adverts and a cacophony of competing audio systems announce AKIHABARA. Akiba, as it’s popularly known, is renowned as Tokyo’s foremost discount shopping area for electrical and electronic goods of all kinds; but it’s also a hotspot for fans of anime and manga and is famed as the spawning ground for the decidedly surreal “maid cafés”. Though Akiba’s buzzing, neon-lit streets are almost entirely dedicated to technological wizardry and pop culture, there are sights to the west, including the lively Shintō shrine of Kanda Myōjin, and an austere monument to Confucius at Yushima Seidō. Across the Sumida-gawa to the east lies sumo central, Ryōgoku.

TAKING THE PULSE OF AKIHABARA

There are few other Tokyo districts in which so many travellers actually avoid the sights: instead, contemporary culture is Akihabara’s main, or even exclusive, drawcard. Here are a few ways in which to enjoy the more modern delights of Akiba.

Anime Part of a city-wide chain, Mandarake is a good bet for figurines, films, anime-related clothing, and basically everything in between.

Capsule toys Small as it may be, Gachapon Hall (ガチャポン会館; 3-15-5 Sotokanda; daily 11am–8pm) is stuffed with over 500 coin-operated capsule toy machines; it’s hard to say whether it’s adults or children that constitute the bulk of customers.

Electronics Akihabara’s electronic stores are descendants of a postwar black market in radios and radio parts that took place beneath the train tracks around Akihabara station. You can recapture some of the atmosphere in the Tōkyō Radio Depāto (東京ラジオデパート; 1-10-11 Sotokanda; daily 11am–7pm) – four floors stuffed with plugs, wires, boards and tools for making or repairing audiovisual equipment.

Games If you want to see “crazy” Japan, Taito Station (タイトー自慢; 4-2-2 Sotokanda; daily 10am–midnight) is a pretty good place to start. Around the complex you’ll see Tokyoites – and not just the young ones – perfecting their moves on dance machines, thrashing the hell out of computerized drum kits, playing all sorts of screen-whacking games, and using grabbing cranes to pluck teddies for their dates.

Maid cafés The whole area is riddled with maid cafés, which come in many different guises, from cosplay and sailor to kimono and many more. You’ll see a bunch of cafés clamouring for custom on the road outside Super Potato (see below); two safe bets are Mai-lish and Maidreamin – the latter is on the second floor of the Zeniya Building, which boasts seven full levels of maid cafés, and nothing else.

Robots You’d have to bring quite a bit of cash to purchase the equipment necessary to put together a full robot at Tsukumo Robot Kingdom, but this store carries a large amount of such goodies, and is well worth a peek even if you’re not a roboteer. Smaller toys are available for purchase, as are DVDs of robot battles.

Sex toys The Pop Life Department M’s (1-15-13 Sotokanda; daily 10am–11pm) is essentially a department store full of sex toys and equipment, and soft-core pornography – seven whole floors of the stuff.

Video games Head on up to the fifth floor of Super Potato (スーパーポテト; 1-11-2 Sotokanda; daily 11am–8pm), which has a whole bunch of old-school arcade games including Bomberman, Mario (the NES version) and several iterations of Street Fighter II. If that sounds a little Nintendo-focused, try Club Sega (クラブセガ; 1-11-1 Sotokanda; daily 10am–11.30pm), which has two floors of arcade games and one of interactive music machines atop its six levels.

3331 Arts Chiyoda

３３３１アーツ千代田 • 6-11-14 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku • Daily (except Tues) noon–7pm • Usually free, though charges apply for some special exhibitions • 03 6803 2441, 3331.jp • Suehirochō Station

Down a side street a little north of Suehirochō Station is the landscaped entrance to the 3331 Arts Chiyoda complex. Based inside a renovated school, the centre hosts close to twenty galleries, where you’ll find a revolving mix of exhibitions, interactive installations and workshops.

Kanda Myōjin

神田明神 • 2-16-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku • Daily 9am–4pm • Free • Ochanomizu and Marunouchi stations

A vermilion gate marks the entrance to Kanda Myōjin, one of the city’s oldest shrines and host to one of its top three festivals, the Kanda Matsuri. Founded in 730 AD, the shrine originally stood in front of Edo Castle, where it was dedicated to the gods of farming and fishing (Daikoku and Ebisu). Later, the tenth-century rebel Taira no Masakado – who was beheaded after declaring himself Emperor – was also enshrined here. When Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu was strengthening the castle’s fortifications in 1616, he took the opportunity to move the shrine, but mollified Masakado’s supporters by declaring him a guardian deity of the city. Poke around to the west of the main shrine, and you’ll find Imasa, a charming and almost otherworldly café.

Yushima Seidō

湯島聖堂 • 1-4-25 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku • Daily: May–Oct 9.30am–5pm; Nov–April 9.30am–4pm • Free • Ochanomizu Station

A copse of woodland hides Yushima Seidō, which was founded in 1632 as an academy for the study of the ancient classics. Today, the quiet compound contains an eighteenth-century wooden gate and, at the top of broad steps, the imposing, black-lacquered Taisen-den, or “Hall of Accomplishments”, where a shrine to Confucius is located; look up to see panther-like guardians poised on the roof tiles.

Ryōgoku

両国

The RYŌGOKU area has just two sights – and one of those is only in action for six weeks of the year. For a fortnight each January, May and September, major sumo tournaments fill the National Sumo Stadium with a pageant of thigh-slapping, foot-stamping and arcane ritual. But even if your visit doesn’t coincide with a tournament, it’s still worth heading to Ryōguku to see the fantastic Edo-Tokyo Museum, or to take a stroll down the banks of the Sumida-gawa.

Edo-Tokyo Museum

江戸東京博物館, Edo-Tōkyō Hakubutsukan • 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku • Tues–Fri & Sun 9.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9.30am–7.30pm • ¥600 • 03 3626 9974, edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp • Ryōgoku Station

You’ll need plenty of stamina for the extensive Edo-Tokyo Museum, housed in a colossal building behind the Sumo Stadium; the ticket lasts a whole day, so you can come and go. The museum tells the history of Tokyo from the days of the Tokugawa shogunate to postwar reconstruction, using life-sized replicas, models and holograms, as well as more conventional screen paintings, ancient maps and documents, with plenty of information in English, including a free audio guide. The display about life in Edo’s Shitamachi, with its pleasure quarters, festivals and vibrant popular culture, is particularly good.

Ueno and around

上野

Most people visit UENO for its park, Ueno Kōen, which is home to a host of good museums, including the prestigious Tokyo National Museum, plus a few relics from Kan’ei-ji, a vast temple complex that once occupied this hilltop. But Ueno also has proletarian, Shitamachi roots, and much of its eastern district has a rough-and-ready feel, which is best experienced in the market area of Ameyokochō. The west side of central Ueno, just southeast of Tokyo University, is home to the appealing Kyū Iwasaki-tei Gardens.

Ueno Kōen

上野公園 • Various entrances; information desk by east gate • Ueno Station

Although it’s far from being the city’s most attractive park, Ueno Kōen is where all Tokyo seems to flock during spring’s cherry blossom season. Outside this brief period, however, the park only gets busy at weekends, and during the week it can be a pleasant place for a stroll, particularly around Shinobazu Pond.

Shitamachi Museum

下町風俗資料館, Shitamachi Fūzoku Shiryōkan • 2-1 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm • ¥300 • 03 3823 7451, www.taitocity.net/taito/shitamachi • Ueno or Ueno-Hirokōji stations

At the southern end of the park, the Shitamachi Museum occupies a partly traditional-style building beside Shinobazu Pond. A reconstructed merchant’s shophouse and a 1920s tenement row, complete with sweet shop and coppersmith’s workroom, fill the ground floor. The upper floor is devoted to rotating exhibitions focusing on articles of daily life. All the museum’s exhibits – most of which you can handle – have been donated by local residents; take your shoes off to explore the shop interiors.

Shinobazu Pond

不忍池, Shinobazu-no Ike • Rowboats and pedaloes March–Oct daily 10am–6pm, ¥600–700 • Ueno Station

Glorious Shinobazu Pond, once an inlet of Tokyo Bay, is now a wildlife protection area hosting a permanent colony of wild black cormorants as well as temporary populations of migrating waterfowl. A causeway leads out across its reeds and lotus beds to a small, leafy island occupied by an octagonal-roofed temple, Benten-dō, dedicated to the goddess of good fortune, water and music (among other things); inside, the ceiling sports a snarling dragon. Boats can be hired to take out on the pond.

AMEYOKOCHŌ

The bustling market area south of Ueno Station, Ameyokochō (アメ横丁), extends nearly half a kilometre along the west side of the elevated JR train lines down to Okachimachi Station. The name – an abbreviation of “Ameya Yokochō”, or “Candy Sellers’ Alley” – dates from the immediate postwar days when sweets were a luxury and the hundreds of stalls here mostly peddled sweet potatoes coated in sugar syrup (daigakuimo). Since rationing was in force, blackmarketeers joined the candy sellers, dealing in rice and other foodstuffs, household goods and personal items. Later, American imports found their way from army stores onto the streets here, especially during the Korean War in the early 1950s, which is also when the market was legalized. Ameyokochō still retains a flavour of those early days: stalls specializing in everything from bulk tea and coffee to jewellery and fish line the street, gruff men with sandpaper voices shout out their wares, and there’s a clutch of yakitori bars under the arches.

Kiyomizu Kannon-dō

清水観音堂 • Daily 7am–5pm • Free

The red-lacquered Kiyomizu Kannon-dō sits to the east of the Shinobazu Pond. Built out over the hillside, this temple is a smaller, less impressive version of Kyoto’s Kiyomizu-dera, but has the rare distinction of being one of Kan’ei-ji’s few existing remnants, dating from 1631.

Tōshō-gū

東照宮 • 9-88 Ueno, Taitō-ku • Daily 9am–sunset • ¥200 • Nezu or Ueno stations

A tree-lined avenue marks the approach to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s shrine, Tōshō-gū. Ieyasu died in 1616 and is buried in Nikkō, but this was his main shrine in Tokyo, founded in 1627 and rebuilt on a grander scale in 1651. For once it’s possible to penetrate beyond the screened entrance and enclosing walls to take a closer look inside, where the highlight is Ieyasu’s shrine room, resplendent in burnished black and gold.

Ueno Zoo

上野動物園, Ueno Dōbutsuen • 9-83 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4pm • ¥600, free for children 12 and under; monorail ¥150 • 03 3828 5171, tokyo-zoo.net

Considering the fact that Ueno Zoo is over a century old, it’s less depressing than might be feared. Yet while the macaques seem to have a whale of a time on the rocky crag they call home, the same cannot be said of the bears and big cats, which tend to pace around small corners of their pens. Other animals include rare gorillas and pygmy hippos, as well as a couple of pandas. The east and west parts of the zoo are connected by monorail, though a walking path plies the same route.

National Museum of Western Art

国立西洋美術館, Kokuritsu Seiyō Bijutsukan • 7-7 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm, Fri until 8pm • ¥500, or more for special exhibitions • 03 3828 5131, nmwa.go.jp • Ueno Station

The National Museum of Western Art is instantly recognizable from the Rodin statues on the forecourt. The museum, designed by Le Corbusier, was erected in 1959 to house the mostly French Impressionist paintings left to the nation by Kawasaki shipping magnate Matsukata Kōjirō. Since then, works by Rubens, Tintoretto, Max Ernst and Jackson Pollock have broadened the scope of this impressive collection.

ASAKUSA FERRIES

Though you can easily reach Asakusa by subway, a more pleasant way of getting here – or away – is by river. The Sumida-gawa service runs from Hinode Pier on Tokyo Bay to the jetty at Asakusa, under Azuma-bashi (every 30–50min, 10am–6.30pm; 40min; ¥860); some boats call at the Hama Rikyū Onshi Teien en route. Alternatively, the space-age Himoko and Hotaruna ferries connect Odaiba with Asakusa, usually via Hinode (6 daily; ¥1720).

National Museum of Science and Nature

国立科学博物館, Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan • 7-20 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm, Fri until 8pm • ¥620 • 03 5777 8600, www.kahaku.go.jp • Ueno Station

The National Museum of Science and Nature offers lots of videos and interactive displays, though sadly very little is labelled in English. Six floors of displays cover natural history as well as science and technology. In the “exploration space” on the second floor, pendulums, magnets, mirrors and hand-powered generators provide entertainment for the mainly school-age audience, while down in the basement there’s an aquarium. The highlight, however, is on the second floor: sitting amid other stuffed animals, with surprisingly little fanfare, is Hachikō, Japan’s canine hero. Almost all visitors, even the locals, walk past without a second glance – a rather sad end for the country’s most famous hound.

Tokyo National Museum

東京国立博物, Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan • 13-9 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm, though often later (see website) • ¥620 • 03 5405 8686, www.tnm.jp • Ueno Station

Dominating the northern reaches of Ueno Park is the Tokyo National Museum, containing the world’s largest collection of Japanese art, plus an extensive collection of Oriental antiquities. The museum style tends towards old-fashioned reverential dryness, but among such a vast collection there’s something to excite everyone’s imagination. Displays are rotated every few months from a collection of 110,000 pieces, and the special exhibitions are usually also worth seeing if you can stand the crowds.

Japanese Gallery

The Japanese Gallery, the museum’s central building, presents the sweep of Japanese art, from Jōmon-period pottery (pre-fourth century BC) to early twentieth-century painting, via theatrical costume for kabuki, nō and bunraku, colourful Buddhist mandalas, ukiyo-e prints, exquisite lacquerware and even seventeenth-century Christian art from southern Japan.

Japanese Archaeology Gallery

In the Japanese Archaeology Gallery, you’ll find splendid exhibits including chunky, flame-shaped Jōmon pots and a collection of super-heated Sue stoneware, made using a technique introduced from Korea in the fifth century.

Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures

In the southwest corner of the compound lurks the Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures, containing a selection of priceless treasures donated over the centuries to Nara’s Hōryū-ji temple. The most eye-catching display comprises 48 gilt-bronze Buddhist statues in various poses, each an island of light in the inky darkness, while there’s also an eighth-century inkstand, water container and other items said to have been used by Prince Shōtoku when annotating the Lotus Sutra.

Asian Gallery

The museum’s final gallery is the Asian Gallery, housing a delightful hotchpotch of Asian antiquities: Javanese textiles and nineteenth-century Indian prints rub shoulders with Egyptian mummies (not quite Asian, but evidently close enough) and a wonderful collection of Southeast Asian bronze Buddhas.

Kyū Iwasaki-tei Gardens

旧岩崎邸庭園, Kyū Iwasaki-tei Teien • 1-3-45 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400; tea ¥500 • 03 3823 8340 • Yushima Station

The west side of central Ueno is dominated by seedy love hotels and dubious bars. Take a short walk past Yushima Station, however, and you’ll discover a remnant of a much more genteel past. The Kyū Iwasaki-tei Gardens date from 1896 and surround an elegant house, designed by British architect Josiah Conder, which combines a Western-style two-storey mansion with a traditional single-storey Japanese residence. The wooden Jacobean and Moorish-style arabesque interiors of the Western-style mansion are in fantastic condition – in stark contrast to the severely faded screen paintings of the Japanese rooms. The lack of furniture in both houses makes them a little lifeless, but it’s nonetheless an impressive artefact in a city where such buildings are increasingly rare. You can take tea in the Japanese section, or sit outside and admire the gardens, which also combine Eastern and Western influences.

Asakusa and around

浅草

ASAKUSA is best known as the site of Tokyo’s most venerable Buddhist temple, Sensō-ji, whose towering worship hall is filled with a continual throng of petitioners and holiday-makers. Stalls before the temple cater to the crowds, peddling trinkets and keepsakes as they have done for centuries; old-fashioned craftshops display exquisite hair combs, paper fans and calligraphy brushes; and all around is the inevitable array of restaurants, drinking places and fast-food stands. It’s the infectious carnival atmosphere that makes Asakusa so appealing. The biggest festival here is the Sanja Matsuri, but there are numerous smaller celebrations; ask at the information centre in front of Sensō-ji’s main gate if there’s anything on.

A more futuristic side of Tokyo is on view across the Sumida-gawa to the east, where the soaring Tokyo Skytree dominates the skyline; you also can’t miss the Philippe Starck-designed Asahi Beer Hall, which is replete with what’s supposed to be a stylized flame, but is known to all and sundry as the “Golden Turd” (金のうんこ, kin-no-unko). The river itself defines Asakusa almost as much as the temple, and ferries are a lovely way to get in or out of the area.

Sensō-ji

浅草寺 • North end of Nakamise-dōri • Grounds daily 24hr; main hall daily 6am–5pm • Free • Asakusa Station

The great Kaminari-mon, or “Thunder Gate”, named after its two vigorous guardian gods of thunder and wind (Raijin and Fūjin), marks the southern entrance to Sensō-ji. This magnificent temple, also known as Asakusa Kannon, was founded in the mid-seventh century to enshrine a tiny golden image of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, which, legend has it, was ensnared in the nets of two local fishermen. The main temple approach starts under Kaminari-mon, or “Thunder Gate”, which boasts a gigantic red paper lantern – 4m in height, it weighs in at a whopping 670kg.

TRYING ON KIMONO

Asakusa has plenty of shops selling kimono, both new and used, and these can make for fantastic souvenirs. However, if you’re not sure that you’ll ever need one again, you can make use of the many kimono rental spots dotted around the area – there seems to be one on almost every street (there are also a few in Harajuku, Shibuya and other areas). Figure on ¥3000 for the day, and ¥1500 to have your hair done.

The main hall

There’s a great sense of atmosphere as you approach the main hall, with its sweeping, tiled roofs, from Nakamise-dōri, a colourful parade of small shops selling all manner of souvenirs. The double-storeyed treasure gate, Hōzō-mon, stands astride the entrance to the main temple complex; the treasures, fourteenth-century Chinese sutras, are locked away on the upper floor. The two protective gods – Niō, the traditional guardians of Buddhist temples – are even more imposing than those at Kaminari-mon. Beyond, the crowd clustered around a large, bronze incense bowl waft the pungent smoke – breath of the gods – over themselves for its supposed curative powers before approaching the temple’s inner sanctum where the little Kannon is a hibutsu, a hidden image considered too holy to be on view. Three times a day, drums echo through the hall into the courtyard as priests chant sutras beneath the altar’s gilded canopy.

Asakusa-jinja

浅草神社

Like many Buddhist temples, Sensō-ji accommodates Shintō shrines in its grounds, the most important being Asakusa-jinja, dedicated to the two fishermen brothers who netted the Kannon image, and their overlord. More popularly known as Sanja-sama, “Shrine of the Three Guardians”, this is the focus of the tumultuous Sanja Matsuri, Tokyo’s biggest festival.

Tokyo Skytree

東京スカイツリー • 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku • 03 6658 8012, tokyo-skytree.jp • Oshiage or Tokyo Skytree stations

Across the river, the Tokyo Skytree is the city’s newest star attraction, and the world’s tallest tower at 634m in height – the only structure to beat it, at the time of writing, is Dubai’s mighty Burj Khalifa (830m). The main rationale behind the project was to replace the comparatively puny Tokyo Tower as the city’s digital broadcasting beacon, although the sightseeing potential of the structure is being fully exploited, with the Skytree offering the city’s highest public observatory – a dizzying 450m above the ground – as well as an aquarium and planetarium at its base, plus tourist shops, restaurants and landscaped public spaces.

The observation decks

Daily 8am–10pm • 350m deck ¥2100/2300 weekdays/weekends; 450m deck ¥1000/1100 extra weekdays/weekends • Foreign visitors with ID can also purchase a special “Fast Skytree” ticket, which beats the queues: 350m deck ¥3200, both decks ¥4200

On sunny days and weekends, prepare for mammoth queues for the observation decks – first for the tickets, then for the lifts, and then for the return trip. The wait, however, is just about worthwhile, and there’s a certain tingly excitement to be had in watching the numbers on the lift panel getting higher and higher. Even the views from the lower deck (350m) are fantastic, with giant touch-screen displays showing precisely what you’re looking at. Mount Fuji is, in theory, within visible range, but mist often blocks the view even in sunny weather, and it’s usually only visible a couple of times per month. Those who choose to head on to the upper deck (450m) will see more or less the same thing, although its space-age interior design is rather lovely – the inclined walkway wraps around the building, giving you the impression that you’re climbing to the top. Note that foreign visitors with valid ID can beat the queues for a small premium, and most find it worth the extra investment.

Sumida Aquarium

すみだ水族館, Sumida Suizokukan • 5F and 6F Tokyo Solamachi West Yard • Daily 9am–9pm • ¥2050 • 03 5619 1821, sumida-aquarium.com

Every major tower in Tokyo seems to have an aquarium attached, and the Skytree is no exception. It’s a pretty good one, though, with a 350,000-litre tank (the largest in Japan) at its centre; clever design of the glass walls mean that you can see the whole tank from almost any angle.

Konica Minolta Planetarium

コニカミノルタプラネタリウム • 7F Tokyo Solamachi East Yard • Hourly shows daily 11am–9pm • ¥1500 • 03 5610 3043

At the Konica Minolta Planetarium – part planetarium, part 4D cinema – the delights of the cosmos are relayed, for the sake of superfluous technology, in glorious smell-o-vision. Science has yet to capture the true scent of the stars, and though it’s probably fair to assume that Finnish forests and Asian aromatherapy oils might be a bit wide of the mark, it’s a fun experience nonetheless.

Bayside Tokyo

Several of the city’s prime attractions are to be found around Tokyo Bay, not least the popular fish market of Toyosu, whose relocation from Tsukiji was a major controversy in recent years. Across the Rainbow Bridge lies the modern waterfront suburb of Odaiba, built on vast islands of reclaimed land and home to Miraikan, Tokyo’s best science museum, as well as huge shopping malls.

On the north side of the bay, Kasai Rinkai-kōen is a good place to catch the sea breeze and has a fine aquarium. From the park, the Cinderella spires of Tokyo Disneyland are clearly visible to the west.

Tsukiji

築地

The bayside area of Tsukiji dates back to 1657, when Tokugawa Ieyasu had the debris from the Fire of the Long Sleeves shovelled into the marshes at the edge of Ginza, thus creating “reclaimed land”, or “tsukiji”. The area was long famed for its huge, almost otherworldly fish market, which was finally shifted east to Toyosu, after years of delays, and no small amount of controversy. Most of the area’s prime sushi shops have also relocated, but Tsukiji still boasts a distinctive atmosphere, and a lovely temple.

Sumiyoshi-jinja

住吉神社 • Shrine building open daily 8am–4pm • Free • Tsukishima Station

In addition to providing food for the castle, the island’s founding fishermen were expected to report on any suspicious comings and goings in the bay. For their spiritual protection, they built themselves the delightful Sumiyoshi-jinja, a shrine dedicated to the god of the sea. The roof of the well beside the shrine’s torii has eaves decorated with exquisite carvings of scenes from the fishermen’s lives.

Toyosu

豊洲

Just over 2km down the bay from Tsukiji, Toyosu finally became the venue of the new wholesale fish market in 2018 – the buildings had been there for years, but environmental concerns saw the issue become a political hot-potato. With these problems now fading into the past, Toyosu has suddenly become an extremely popular tourist spot, with thousands of visitors arriving every day to sample top-quality sushi – or, for those able to wake up pre-dawn, to witness the famous tuna auctions.

Wholesale Fish Market

水産卸売場棟; Suisan Oroshiuri-ba-tō • Daily (except Sun) 5am–5pm; auctions daily (except Sun) 5.30–6.30am • Free • shijo.metro.tokyo.jp • Shijo-mae monorail; also walkable from Toyosu Station

Toyosu’s modern Wholesale Fish Market is almost the polar opposite of its predecessor in Tsukiji – much of the chaotic air has disappeared, though so too has most of the charm. The three interconnected buildings that constitute the present market have been designed to keep visitors at arm’s length from the action, restricted to walkways overlooking the wholesale fish section; while not as “fun”, this has significantly reduced the danger element for visitors, and made life easier for those working here. Eels from Taiwan, salmon from Santiago and tuna from Tasmania are among the 480 different types of seafood – two thousand tonnes of it – that come under the hammer here daily.

SOMETHING FISHY: TROUBLES AT THE MARKET

It was dubbed the “fish market at the centre of the world” for its influence on world seafood prices. Generating almost ¥2 billion (£14m/US$17.5m) in sales daily, Tsukiji’s Wholesale Food Market was massive business, but things stalled somewhat when the Tokyo Metropolitan Government made plans to shift the market to Toyosu, 2km across the bay. The planned site had previously been used by Tokyo Gas, and its highly toxic ground was cleaned up before construction started on the new complex, which cost around ¥590bn (then £4.2bn/US$5.2bn) to build. The stalls were all supposed to move out to Toyosu in November 2016, but surveys conducted in the months before showed that the new site’s levels of mercury, benzene, arsenic and cyanide – slightly worrying substances, even away from raw fish – were all above government standards. Because of these concerns over toxins, ones echoed by many of the marketfolk themselves, Tokyo governor Yuriko Koike brought a sudden halt to proceedings just before the move. Things were delayed for almost two years before the go-ahead was finally given in 2018; in October of that year, more than 600 merchants made the move along the bay to their new base of operations.

The headline tuna auctions are a lot harder to get on than was the case in Tsukiji; only 120 visitors per day are allowed in (follow links from the website given above), with lottery-like applications usually closing more than a month ahead, and each successful applicant given a ten-minute viewing slot. Those without a slot can still witness some of the action from a rather pathetic viewing area on the third floor.

Many of the esteemed sushi restaurants which once flanked the market in Tsukiji have also moved to Toyosu, but again, it’s a far more sterile experience than before; Sushi-bun is recommended.

Odaiba

お台場

ODAIBA is an island of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay. The name means “cannon emplacements”, referring to the defences set up in the bay by the shogun in 1853 to protect the city from Commodore Perry’s threatening Black Ships. The remains of the two cannon emplacements, one now a public park, are these days dwarfed by the huge landfill site Rinkai Fukutoshin, of which Odaiba is a part. Here the Metropolitan Government set about constructing a brand-new urban development, fit for the twenty-first century, in 1988. The subsequent economic slump and spiralling development costs slowed the project down and, when the Rainbow Bridge linking Odaiba to the city opened in 1993, the area was still a series of empty lots. Odaiba has since filled out and is most appreciated by locals for its seaside location and sense of space – so rare in Tokyo. At night, the illuminated Rainbow Bridge, giant technicolour Ferris wheel and twinkling towers of the Tokyo skyline make Odaiba a romantic date location.

While you’re here, consider going for a dip at Ōedo Onsen Monogatari, one of Tokyo’s largest hot-spring resorts.

Panasonic Center Tokyo

パナソニックセンター東京 • 3-5-1 Ariake, Kōtō-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Free; RiSuPia ¥500 • 03 3599 2600, panasonic.com/global • Ariake or Kokusai Tenjijō Seimon monorail stations

At the Panasonic Center Tokyo, the electronics group’s showcase, you can try out the latest Nintendo games on a large-screen plasma display or high-resolution projector, as well as check out the company’s technologies of tomorrow. The centre includes the fun “digital network museum” Risupia, at which you’re issued with an electronic tag upon entering the hi-tech display hall; as you learn about science and mathematics from the computer games and simulations within, the tag keeps track of how well you’re doing.

Palette Town

パレットタウン • 1-3-15 Aomi, Kōtō-ku • Aomi monorail station

Aomi Station is the stop for the vast Palette Town shopping and entertainment complex, which offers something for almost everyone: test-drive a Toyota, go for a spin on a giant Ferris wheel, or see Tokyo’s arty side in the new Mori Digital Art museum.

Mega Web

メガウェブ • Daily 11am–9pm • Entry and simulations free, vehicle rental at Ride Studio ¥200–300 • 03 3599 0808, megaweb.gr.jp

On Palette Town’s east side, Mega Web is a design showcase for Toyota’s range of cars. For the casual visitor, it’s most interesting as a glimpse into the future of the company, and by extension the automotive industry in general. It’s often possible to pilot some kind of futuristic electric vehicle along the pleasing blue track that swoops around the building; consult the website for information, and note that you’ll probably need to show an international driving licence.

Wonder Wheel

ワンダーウィール • Daily 10am–10pm • ¥1000

Just behind the Mega Web showroom are some more hi-tech diversions, the best of which is the Wonder Wheel, a candy-coloured, 115m-diameter Ferris wheel, which takes sixteen minutes to make a full circuit. If heights hold no fear then plump for one of the wheel’s four fully transparent gondolas, which enable you to see down through the floor; they cost no extra, though you may have to queue.

Mori Digital Art Museum

Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–9pm, closed second & fourth Tues of month • ¥3200• borderless.teamlab.art

Odaiba’s newest and most fabulous attraction is the Mori Digital Art Museum, which also goes by the name of teamLAB Borderless; while this doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue (and the full one is even longer), it’s a real winner. The whizkid group known as teamLAB have been staging high-profile exhibitions outside of Japan for years, but this is their biggest home project to date. “Borderless” is a good way to describe some of the exhibits, some of which flow between rooms; visitors are encouraged to touch, disrupt or enhance a few of them, meaning that the art itself continues to morph. As such, it’s a little hard to explain what the experience will be like during your own visit – expect things like mirror-filled infinity rooms, forests of dangling lamps, projected flowers or giant balloons, and a very, very strange teahouse.

GETTING TO AND FROM ODAIBA

The simplest way of reaching Odaiba is to hop on the Yurikamome monorail ( yurikamome.co.jp), which starts at Shimbashi Station and arcs up to the Rainbow Bridge on a splendid circular line, stopping at all the area’s major sites before terminating at Toyosu, also a subway stop; single tickets here from the “mainland” are ¥250–380. In addition, trains on the Rinkai line, linked with the JR Saikyō line and the Yūrakuchō subway line, run to the central Tokyo-Teleport Station on Odaiba; if you’re coming to the area on JR trains, this usually works out cheaper than the monorail, and there are direct services from Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ebisu, among other places.

Buses from Shinagawa Station, southwest of the bay, cross the Rainbow Bridge and run as far as the Maritime Museum map, stopping at Odaiba Kaihin-kōen on the way. There is also a variety of bus services (some free) to the Ōedo Onsen Monogatari. Once you’re on Odaiba, you can make use of the free Tokyo Bay Shuttle bus services, which depart on a loop every 20min or so.

Finally, ferries shuttle from the pier at Hinode (日の出) to Odaiba Seaside Park or Palette Town; some also stop next to the Tokyo Big Sight exhibition centre – the journey costs from just ¥520 and doubles as a Tokyo Bay cruise. The space-age Himoko and Hotaruna ferries also connect Odaiba with Asakusa, sometimes via Hinode (6 daily; ¥1720), and there are also ferries to Kasai Rinkai-kōen.

TOKYO FOR KIDS

Tokyo is a fantastic city for kids. For starters, there’s a whole swathe of museums, the best ones being Miraikan, the National Museum of Science and Nature and Edo-Tokyo Museum. For animal lovers, there’s the fabulous Tokyo Sea Life Park at Kasai Rinkai-kōen and Ueno Zoo.

The city also boasts Tokyo Disneyland, of course, and the thrill of the rides at Tokyo Dome as well as the wonderful Ghibli Museum, based on the popular anime films produced by the Ghibli studio.

Don’t forget the myriad shops featuring the latest hit toys and crazes. For older, tech-savvy kids, the electronic emporia of Akihabara will be a must.

Venus Fort

ヴィナスフォート • Daily 11am–9pm • www.venusfort.co.jp

The west side of Palette Town is dominated by Venus Fort, one of Tokyo’s most original shopping and factory outlet malls. It’s partly designed as a mock Italian city, complete with piazza, fountains and Roman-style statues – even the ceiling is painted and lit to resemble a perfect Mediterranean sky from dawn to dusk.

Miraikan

日本科学未来館, Nihon Kagaku Miraikan • 2-3-6 Aomi, Kōtō-ku • 10am–5pm; closed Tues • ¥620, Dome Theater ¥300 • 03 3570 9151, www.miraikan.jst.go.jp • Telecom Center monorail station

West of Palette Town is Tokyo’s best science museum, the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, also known as the Miraikan. Here you can learn about the latest in robot technology, superconductivity (including Maglev trains), space exploration, earthquakes and much more, as well as check out the weather around the world by looking up at a giant sphere covered with one million light-emitting diodes showing the globe as it appears from space that day. For an extra fee you can catch a science flick in the spherical Dome Theater.

Odaiba beach

お台場浜, Odaiba-hama • Daiba monorail station

On the north side of the island, Odaiba’s man-made beach – part of Odaiba Seaside Park – boasts a fantastic view of the Rainbow Bridge, as well as an unexpected scale copy of the Statue of Liberty. It’s a wonderful place to be in the evening, looking at the bridge and twinkly lights beyond, especially if you take off your shoes and dip your feet into the water.

Joypolis

ジョイポリス • 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku • Daily 10am–10pm • Adult ¥800, children aged 7–17 ¥500; passport for unlimited rides (day/evening) adult ¥4500/3500, children ¥3500/2500 • 03 5500 1801, tokyo-joypolis.com • Odaiba-Kaihin-kōen monorail station

Fronting the beach are a couple of linked shopping malls, Aqua City and Decks Tokyo Beach. Apart from plenty of shops and restaurants, the former includes the Mediage multiplex cinema, while the latter has Joypolis, a multistorey arcade filled with Sega’s interactive entertainment technology.

Tim Draper

MAID CAFÉ, SOTO-KANDA

Fuji TV Building

富士テレビビル, Fuji Terebi Biru • 2-4-8 Daiba, Minato-ku • Viewing platform Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • ¥700 • Daiba monorail station

A surreal, sci-fi aura hangs over Tange Kenzō’s Fuji TV Building – with a huge metal sphere suspended in its middle, it looks as if it’s been made from a giant Meccano set. You can pay to head up to the 25th-floor viewing platform or save the cash for a drink in the Sky Lounge at the top of the neighbouring Grand Pacific Le Daiba hotel, where the view is thrown in for free.

Rainbow Bridge

レインボーブリッジ • Observation rooms and promenade daily: Jan–March, Nov & Dec 10am–6pm; April–Oct 9am–9pm • Free • Shibaura Futō monorail station

From Odaiba you can cross back to mainland Tokyo along the Rainbow Bridge, a 918m-long, single-span suspension bridge in two levels: the lower bears the waterfront road and the monorail, the upper the Metropolitan Expressway. On both sides is a pedestrian promenade linking the observation rooms in the anchorages at either end of the bridge. The walk along the bridge takes about half an hour and provides good views across the bay, even as far as Mount Fuji if the sky is clear.

East of Odaiba

An enjoyable way to experience Tokyo Bay is to head out to Kasai Rinkai-kōen (葛西臨海公園), some 7km east of Odaiba. The park’s biggest draw is its superb aquarium, the Tokyo Sea Life Park, but it’s also a favourite weekend spot for many families who visit to picnic, cycle or paddle off its small, crescent-shaped beach. Bird enthusiasts also come to ogle water birds and waders in the well-designed sanctuary. Just to the east is Tokyo’s own take on the Disney mega-park theme.

Tokyo Sea Life Park

葛西臨海水族館, Kasai Rinkai Suizokukan • 6-2-3 Rinkai-chō, Edogawa-ku • 9.30am–5pm, last entry 4pm; closed Wed • ¥700, children free • 03 3869 5152, www.tokyo-zoo.net • Ferry from Odaiba Seaside Park; 50min; ¥1130 one-way, ¥1650 return; last boat back around 5pm • Kasai Rinkai-kōen Station; from Odaiba, take the Rinkai line and transfer to JR Keiyō line at Shin-Kiba

The highlight of the Tokyo Sea Life Park, set under a glass-and-steel dome overlooking the sea, is a pair of vast tanks filled with tuna and sharks, where silver shoals race round you at dizzying speeds. Smaller tanks elsewhere showcase sea life from around the world, from flashy tropical butterfly fish and paper-thin sea horses to the lumpy mudskippers of Tokyo Bay.

Tokyo Disney Resort

東京ディズニーリゾート • 1-1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba• Generally open 8/9am–10pm; call to check times beforehand • One-day passport for Tokyo Disneyland or Tokyo DisneySea adult ¥7400, child aged 12–17 ¥6400, child aged 4–11 ¥4800; two-day passport for both parks ¥13,200/11,600/8600 respectively; discount passports available from 3pm • 0570 008632, www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp • Maihama Station

This big daddy of Tokyo’s theme parks, Tokyo Disney Resort, is made up of two main sections: Tokyo Disneyland, a close copy of the Californian original; and Tokyo DisneySea, a water- and world travel-themed area. With an average of over 30,000 visitors per day (many more over weekends and holidays), expect queues.

Akasaka and Roppongi

AKASAKA and ROPPONGI are famed nightlife zones, but both also have sights worth visiting during the daytime. In the former you’ll find Hie-jinja, one of Tokyo’s most historic shrines, while in the latter an “Art Triangle” has been formed by the Suntory Museum of Art in the huge Tokyo Midtown complex, the National Art Center and the Mori Art Museum in the equally enormous Roppongi Hills development. Tokyo Tower remains the area’s retro landmark, and nearby is the venerable temple Zōjō-ji.

Hie-jinja

日枝神社 • 2-10-15 Nagatachō, Chiyoda-ku • 24hr • Free • Akasaka, Akasaka-mitsuke or Tameike-sannō stations

At the southern end of Akasaka’s main thoroughfare, Sotobori-dōri, stands a huge stone torii, beyond which is a picturesque avenue of red torii leading up the hill to Hie-jinja, a Shintō shrine dedicated to the god Ōyamakui-no-kami, who is believed to protect against evil. Hie-jinja’s history stretches back to 830 AD, when it was first established on the outskirts of what would become Edo. The shrine’s location shifted a couple more times before Shogun Tokugawa Ietsuna placed it here in the seventeenth century as a source of protection for his castle (now the site of the Imperial Palace); the current buildings date from the 1950s.

From the main entrance through the large stone torii on the east side of the hill, 51 steps lead up to a spacious enclosed courtyard. To the left of the main shrine, look for the carving of a female monkey cradling her baby, a symbol that has come to signify protection for pregnant women. In June, Hie-jinja hosts one of Tokyo’s most important festivals, the Sannō Matsuri.

Tokyo Midtown

東京ミッドタウン • 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku • www.tokyo-midtown.com • Roppongi or Nogizaka stations

Tokyo Midtown is an enormous mixed-use complex of offices, shops, apartments, a convention centre, two museums and other public facilities, plus the small park Hinokichō-kōen, all revolving around the 248m-high Midtown Tower. The complex’s design and visual influences come from traditional Japanese architecture and art: look out for the torii in the rectangular archway entrance to the Galleria shopping mall.

Suntory Museum of Art

サントリー美術館, Santorii Bijutsukan • 3F Galleria, Tokyo Midtown • Mon & Sun 10am–6pm, Wed–Sat 10am–8pm • Entry price varies by exhibition, usually around ¥1000 • 03 3470 1073, www.suntory.co.jp/sma

Landscaped gardens planted with 140 trees nestle behind and along the west side of the complex, where you’ll find the Suntory Museum of Art. This elegant Kengo Kuma-designed building hosts changing exhibitions of ceramics, lacquerware, paintings and textiles. There’s also an on-site café serving tasty nibbles from Kanazawa, the capital of Ishikawa prefecture.

21_21 Design Sight

21_２１デザインサイト • 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku • Daily 10am–7pm • ¥1100 • 03 3475 2121, 2121designsight.jp

Two giant triangular planes of steel, concrete and glass peeking out of a green lawn are part of the 21_21 Design Sight, a fascinating collaboration between architect Andō Tadao and fashion designer Issey Miyake. The building’s seamless shape was inspired by Miyake’s A-POC (“A Piece Of Cloth”) line, and the main gallery digs one floor into the ground to provide an elevated, airy space in which to view the various design exhibitions.

National Art Center

国立新美術館, Kokuritsu Shin Bijutsukan • 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku • 10am–6pm, until 8pm on Fri; closed Tues • Entrance fee varies with exhibition • 03 6812 9900, www.nact.jp • Nogizaka or Roppongi stations

A billowing wave of pale-green glass ripples across the facade of the Kurokawa Kisha-designed National Art Center which, at 48,000 square metres, is Japan’s largest such museum, the huge halls allowing for some very ambitious works to be displayed. Of the twelve exhibition rooms, two are devoted to shows curated by the museum (the centre has no collection of its own); the rest of the rooms are organized by various art associations from across Japan, making for a very eclectic mix. While you are here, linger in the main atrium to admire the conical pods that soar up three storeys, and explore the excellent museum shop.

Roppongi Hills

六本木ヒルズ • 8-11-27 Akasaka, Minato-ku • roppongihills.com • Roppongi Station

Roppongi’s metamorphosis was jump-started by the success of the Roppongi Hills development where, amid the shops, offices and residences, you’ll also find a traditional Japanese garden and pond, a liberal sprinkling of funky street sculptures and an open-air arena for free performances. If you approach Roppongi Hills through the main Metro Hat entrance from Roppongi Station, at the top of the escalators you’ll see Louise Bourgeois’ Maman, a giant bronze, stainless-steel and marble spider.

Mori Art Museum

森美術館, Mori Bijutsukan • 53F Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills • Daily 10am–10pm, Tues closes 5pm • ¥1800 • 03 6406 6100, mori.art.museum

The “Museum Cone”, a glass structure enclosing a swirling staircase, forms the entrance to the Mori Art Museum, more than fifty storeys overhead. This large gallery space, which occupies the prime top floors of the Mori Tower, puts on large and adventurous exhibitions, with a particular focus on Asian artists – they’re generally extremely well-curated affairs, even down to themed menu items at the on-site café.

Tokyo City View

東京シティビュー • 54F Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills • Daily 9am–1am, last entry midnight • ¥1800; Skydeck ¥500 extra • www.roppongihills.com/tcv/en

In the same tower as the Mori Art Museum, one floor up, the Tokyo City View observation deck is one of the best viewpoints in the city. If the weather is fine, it’s possible to get out on to the rooftop Skydeck for an alfresco view that’s particularly enchanting during and after sunset.

Tokyo Tower

東京タワー • 4-2-8 Shiba-kōen • Daily 9am–11pm • Main observatory ¥900, top observatory ¥1900 extra • 03 3433 5111, tokyotower.co.jp • Akabanebashi or Kamiyachō stations

You can’t miss Tokyo Tower, a distinctive red-and-white structure rising high above the wider Roppongi area. Built during an era when Japan was becoming famous for producing cheap copies of foreign goods, this 333m-high replica of the Eiffel Tower, opened in 1958, manages to top its Parisian role model by several metres. At the tower’s base a plethora of the usual souvenir shops, restaurants and other minor attractions has been added over the years, most incurring additional fees and none really worth seeing in their own right. There are good views of Tokyo Bay from the uppermost observation deck, but, at 250m, it’s no longer the city’s highest viewpoint – you can get 20m higher at the nearby Tokyo City View, while the Tokyo Skytree rises to a vertiginous 450m.

Zōjō-ji

増上寺 • 4-7-35 Shiba-kōen • 24hr • Free • Akabanebashi, Onarimon or Shiba-kōen stations

The main point of interest at Shiba-kōen park (芝公園) is Zōjō-ji, the family temple of the Tokugawa clan. Dating from 1393, Zōjō-ji was moved to this site in 1598 by Tokugawa Ieyasu (the first Tokugawa shogun) in order to protect southeast Edo spiritually and provide a waystation for pilgrims approaching the capital from the Tōkaidō road. This was once the city’s largest holy site, with 48 sub-temples and over a hundred other buildings. Since the fall of the Tokugawa, however, Zōjō-ji has been razed to the ground by fire three times, and virtually all the current buildings date from the mid-1970s; some find it all rather lacking in charm.

Ebisu, Meguro and the south

Named after the Shintō god of good fortune, Ebisu is home to hundreds of buzzing bars, many stylish restaurants and the huge, multipurpose Yebisu Garden Place development. Uphill to the west of Ebisu lies Daikanyama, one of Tokyo’s classiest districts, and a great place to chill out at a pavement café or cruise boutiques. Dip downhill again to browse a rather earthier version of the same in Nakameguro, whose cherry-tree-lined riverbanks are prime strolling territory. Meguro, south along the river from here, is home to the tranquil National Park for Nature Study. Lastly, in the transport and hotel hub of Shinagawa you’ll find the historic temple Sengaku-ji, a key location in Tokyo’s bloodiest true-life samurai saga, and the wide-ranging Hara Museum of Contemporary Art.

Ebisu

恵比寿 • Ebisu Station

The focus of EBISU is Yebisu Garden Place (恵比寿ガーデンプレイス), a shopping, office and entertainment complex built on the site of the nineteenth-century brewery that was the source of the area’s fortunes. For visitors, the main draw here is the excellent Tokyo Photographic Art Museum.

Tokyo Photographic Art Museum

東京都写真美術館, Tōkyō-to Shashin Bijutsukan • Yebisu Garden Place • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs & Fri until 8pm • Admission charges vary • 03 3280 0031, topmuseum.jp • Ebisu Station

The best sight in the Ebisu area is the Tokyo Photographic Museum – also known as the TOP Museum – which was fully remodelled in 2016 and hosts excellent exhibitions by major Japanese and Western photographers. There are three full floors of exhibitions (two above ground, one below), with a café on the entrance; exhibitions can last anything from two weeks to three months, but there’s usually a good spread of themes at any one time.

Daikanyama

代官山 • Daikanyama Station

A ten-minute stroll west along Komazawa-dōri from Ebisu Station, or one stop from Shibuya on the Tōkyū Tōyoko line, is DAIKANYAMA. Home to some of the city’s classiest homes, shops and watering holes, the village-like, laidback vibe makes a refreshing break from the frenzy of nearby Shibuya. The area is most notable for its many boutiques and cafés, but even if you’re not in the market for clothing or caffeine it’s worth a visit for the relaxed atmosphere. Major developments here include Hillside Terrace, a one-stop area for drinking, dining and shopping; and the even newer Log Road complex, a relatively small affair bookended by craft-beer pubs.

Nakameguro

中目黒 • Nakameguro Station

REAL-LIFE MARIO KART

While walking around certain parts of Tokyo, you may well see foreigners dressed as superheroes dashing around the city streets in tiny go-karts. This is no marketing stunt, but an activity that you can actually take part in yourself. Whizzing about in a costume, and most likely unable to remove the cartoonish grin from your face, this is about the best fun you can have in Tokyo; the only disappointment is that thanks to pressure from Nintendo, the team had to stop dressing their customers up as Mario, Luigi, Toad, Yoshi and other characters from classic game Super Mario Kart (though this is still possible if you can rent your own costume somewhere else).

The Street Kart team ( 03 6712 8275, kart.st) run three separate courses from their office in Shinagawa; all of them take in Tokyo Tower and Roppongi, with Shibuya and Odaiba also options, and prices start at ¥10,000 (reduced to ¥8500 if you give a positive social media review immediately after your ride). You’ll need to be in possession of a foreign or international driving licence (full details are on the website); note that you’ll be driving on real roads, and unlike in the game, you only have one life.

Immediately southwest of Daikanyama is bohemian NAKAMEGURO, one of Tokyo’s trendiest areas, with a laidback, boho feel and a liberal sprinkling of eclectic boutiques and small cafés and bars. The district hugs the banks of the Meguro-gawa, a particularly lovely spot to head during cherry-blossom season and in the height of summer, when the waterway provides some natural air conditioning.

Meguro

目黒 • Meguro Station

Within walking distance of Nakameguro or Ebisu, MEGURO is decidedly less appealing than its neighbouring areas – the atmosphere here is more city than village. Nevertheless, there are a few interesting things to see, even if they’re frustratingly spread out.

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum

東京都庭園美術館, Tōkyō-to Teien Bijutsukan • 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Meguro-ku • Museum Daily 10am–6pm, closed second & fourth Wed of the month • Entry varies by exhibitions, usually ¥1000 • Garden Daily 10am–9pm • Entry included with museum ticket, otherwise ¥200 • 03 3443 0201, www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp • Meguro or Shirokanedai stations

The Art Deco building housing the elegant Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum is the former home of Prince Asaka Yasuhiko, Emperor Hirohito’s uncle, who lived in Paris for three years during the 1920s, where he developed a taste for the European style. It’s worth popping in to admire the gorgeous interior decoration (particularly in the octagonal study room upstairs) and tranquil surrounding Japanese gardens; the exhibitions themselves tend to be curated along similarly genteel lines.

National Park for Nature Study

自然教育園, Shizen Kyōiku-en • 5-21-5 Shirokanedai, Meguro-ku • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm, May–Aug until 5pm • ¥310 • www.ins.kahaku.go.jp • Meguro or Shirokanedai stations

The spacious National Park for Nature Study is a worthy attempt to preserve the original natural features of the countryside before Edo was settled and developed into Tokyo. Among the eight thousand trees in the park are some that have been growing for five hundred years, while frogs can be heard croaking amid the grass beside the marshy ponds. The whole place is a bird-spotter’s paradise, and it’s also one of the few areas in Tokyo where you can really escape the crowds.

THE 47 RŌNIN

Celebrated in kabuki and bunraku plays, as well as on film, Chūshingura is a true story of honour, revenge and loyalty. In 1701, a young daimyō, Asano Takumi, became embroiled in a fatal argument in the shogun’s court with his teacher and fellow lord Kira Yoshinaka. Asano had lost face in his performance of court rituals and, blaming his mentor for his lax tuition, drew his sword within the castle walls and attacked Kira. Although Kira survived, the shogun, on hearing of this breach of etiquette, ordered Asano to commit seppuku, the traditional form of suicide, which he did.

Their lord having been disgraced, Asano’s loyal retainers, the rōnin – or masterless samurai – vowed revenge. On December 14, 1702, the 47 rōnin, lead by Oishi Kuranosuke, stormed Kira’s villa, cut off his head and paraded it through Edo in triumph before placing it on Asano’s grave in Sengaku-ji. The shogun ordered the rōnin’s deaths, but instead all 47 committed seppuku on February 14, 1703, including Oishi’s 15-year-old son. They were buried with Asano in Sengaku-ji, and today their graves are still wreathed in the smoke from the bundles of incense placed by their gravestones.

Happōen

八芳園 • 1-1-1 Shirokanedai, Meguro-ku • Garden Daily 10am–5pm • Free • Teahouse Daily 11am–5pm • ¥800 • Shirokanedai Station

The lovely Happōen garden’s name means “beautiful from any angle” and, despite the addition of a modern wedding hall on one side, this is still true. Most of the garden’s design dates from the early twentieth century, when a business tycoon bought up the land, built a classical Japanese villa (still standing by the garden’s entrance) and gave it the name Happōen. The garden harbours ancient bonsai trees, a stone lantern said to have been carved eight hundred years ago by the Heike warrior Taira-no Munekiyo, and a central pond. Nestling amid the trees is a delightful teahouse.

Shinagawa and around

品川 • Shinagawa Station

The transport and hotel hub of SHINAGAWA was once the location of one of the original checkpoints on the Tōkaidō, the major highway into Edo during the reign of the shoguns. These days, most travellers who find themselves in Shinagawa are merely changing trains or travelling on one of the many train lines snaking through the area, but those with a little time to spare should visit the eclectic Hara Museum of Contemporary Art.

Hara Museum of Contemporary Art

原美術館, Hara Bijutsukan • 4-7-25 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku • Tues–Sun 11am–5pm, Wed until 8pm • ¥1100 • 03 3445 0651, www.haramuseum.or.jp • Shinagawa Station

In a quiet residential area around 800m south of Shinagawa Station, the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art has a small permanent collection including quirky installations, such as Rondo, by Morimura Yasumasa, whose self-portrait occupies the downstairs toilet. The building itself, a 1938 Bauhaus-style house designed by Watanabe Jin, is worth a look, as are the tranquil sculpture gardens overlooked by the museum’s pleasant café.

Sengaku-ji

泉岳寺 • 2-11-1 Akanawa, Minato-ku • Temple Daily: April–Sept 7am–6pm; Oct–March 7am–5pm • Free • 03 3441 5560, sengakuji.or.jp • Museum Daily: April–Sept 9am–4.30pm; Oct–March 9am–4pm • ¥500 • Sengaku-ji Station

Around a kilometre north of Shinagawa is Sengaku-ji, home to the graves of Asano Takumi and his 47 rōnin (see below). Most of what you see now was rebuilt after World War II, but a striking gate decorated with a metalwork dragon dates back to 1836. The graves of the 47 rōnin are in the temple grounds (it’s hard to resist the temptation to count them all), as well as the statue and grave of Oishi Kuranosuke, their avenging leader; a museum to the left of the main building contains their personal belongings, as well as a receipt for the severed head of Kira. The entrance is on the eastern side of the complex, which is a little tricky to track down.

Harajuku, Aoyama and Shibuya

If it’s “wacky” Japan you’re after, Harajuku should be neighbourhood number one on your list – indeed, in terms of human traffic, there can be few more fascinating districts on the whole planet. Streets here often resemble densely populated catwalks, complete with zany clothing, hairstyles and accessories. Shibuya, just south of Harajuku, is almost absurdly busy – a neon-drenched, Kanji-splattered, high-rise jungle second only to Shinjuku for sheer eye-popping madness. East of Harajuku, those with gilt-edged credit cards will feel more at home among the big-brand boutiques of Aoyama.

Harajuku

原宿

As well as the wooded grounds of Meiji-jingū Inner Garden, HARAJUKU is also blessed with Tokyo’s largest park, Yoyogi-kōen. However, ask Tokyoites what Harajuku means to them and they won’t be talking about trees or shrines – the neighbourhood is one of the city’s most important fashion centres, and there are reams of appealing places in which to reflect on your purchases over a coffee.

Elegant Omotesandō (表参道) bisects the neighbourhood, flanked on either side by dense networks of streets, packed with funky little boutiques, restaurants and bars. The hip, independent Harajuku style is very much in evidence south of Omotesandō on Cat Street, a curvy pathway lined with cafés, small restaurants and eclectic emporia. By contrast, the Andō Tadao-designed Omotesandō Hills is a glitzy complex of upmarket designer shops, restaurants and residences. Meanwhile, the Takeshita-dōri (竹下通り) shopping alley provides an intriguing window on Japanese teen fashion, with shops selling every kind of tat imaginable.

Meiji-jingū

明治神宮 • Daily sunrise–sunset • Free • meijijingu.or.jp

Covering parts of both Aoyama and Harajuku are the grounds of Meiji-jingū, Tokyo’s premier Shintō shrine, a memorial to Emperor Meiji and his empress Shōken. Together with the neighbouring shrines to General Nogi and Admiral Tōgō, Meiji-jingū was created as a symbol of imperial power and Japanese racial superiority. Rebuilt in 1958 after being destroyed during World War II, the shrine is the focus of several annual festivals. Apart from the festivals, Meiji-jingū is best visited midweek, when its calm serenity can be appreciated without the crowds.

HARAJUKU STYLE

With its name immortalized in several Western songs, Harajuku is better known abroad for its zany youth culture than it is for shopping, and with very good reason. Swing by the Harajuku Station area on a weekend and you’ll see crowds of youngsters, mainly female, dressed up to the nines in a series of bizarre costumes; the epicentre is Jingū-bashi, a small bridge heading towards Meiji-jingū shrine from Harajuku Station.

Of the styles to look out for, Cosplay is probably the most familiar to outsiders: it involves dressing up as an anime, manga or game character, with occasionally startling results. Also easy to spot is Gothic Lolita, a mix of the gothic and the girlie; this itself is split into subgenres including punk, black, white (as in the hues) and country style. There are plenty more, including a whole host of smaller genres: Visual Kei adherents go for crazy make-up and hairstyles; Decora is a bright, flamboyant style often featuring myriad toys, pieces of jewellery and other accessories; Kawaii, which means “cute” in Japanese, usually involves clothing more appropriate to children. More styles are born every year, of course.

THE 2020 OLYMPICS

At the time of writing, Tokyo was gearing up to host the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games ( tokyo2020.jp), becoming the first Asian city to host the Games twice. The opening ceremony is set for 24 July, 2020, at the National Stadium in Meiji-jingū Outer Garden. The original stadium, built for the 1964 Olympics, was demolished in 2015 as part of preparations for the Games, and even clockwork-efficient Japan failed to escape the Olympic curses of funding and planning. In late 2012, it was announced that a design by the late British-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid had been selected by the Sport Council, but her plans drew a raft of criticism, notably from Japanese architects (“turtle-like” and “rather vaginal” were among the most cutting descriptions), and city politicians worried about the cost. Said costs started to spiral, with Hadid’s team blaming a lack of competition among contractors; by the time her plans were finally ditched in 2015, the estimates had risen to ¥252 billion (£1.82bn/$2.43bn). A cheaper, more visually pleasing design by Kengo Kuma was selected as the alternative, and chosen to host athletics events and the football final.

Mercifully, two of Tokyo’s most iconic venues changed little for the 2020 Games: the superlative Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium and the Yoyogi National Gymnasium, each a design classic built for the 1964 event, and selected to host the table tennis and handball. Other notable venues include the Budōkan for judo and karate; the Tokyo International Forum for the weightlifting; and the National Sumo Stadium, temporarily switching focus from sumo slaps to boxers’ punches.

The shrine’s grounds are split into two distinct parts. The Inner Garden, beside Harajuku Station, includes the Emperor’s shrine, the empress’s iris gardens, the Treasure House and extensive wooded grounds. The less important Outer Garden, 1km east, south of Sendagaya and Shinanomachi stations, contains several sporting arenas, including the National Stadium – centrepiece of the 2020 Olympics.

Inner Garden

御苑 • Inner Garden Daily sunrise–sunset • Free • Jingū Naien Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥500 • Harajuku or Meiji-jingūmae stations

The most impressive way to approach the Inner Garden is through the southern gate next to Jingū-bashi, the bridge across from Harajuku’s mock-Tudor station building. From the gateway, a wide gravel path runs through densely forested grounds to the 12m-high Ō-torii, the largest Myōjin-style gate in Japan, made from 1500-year-old cypress pine trees from Taiwan.

To the left of the Ō-torii is one entrance to the Jingū Naien (神宮内苑), a traditional garden said to have been designed by the Emperor Meiji for his wife. The garden is at its most beautiful (and most crowded) in June, when over one hundred varieties of irises, the empress’s favourite flowers, pepper the lush greenery with their purple and white blooms. From the garden’s main entrance, the gravel path turns right and passes through a second wooden torii, Kita-mon (north gate), leading to the impressive Honden (central hall). With their Japanese cypress wood and green copper roofs, the Honden and its surrounding buildings are a fine example of how Shintō architecture can blend seamlessly with nature.

Yoyogi-kōen

代々木公園 • Daily 24hr • Free • Tandem bike rental: daily (except Mon) 9am–4.30pm; ¥210 for first hour, then ¥100 for each 30min • Harajuku, Yoyogi-kōen or Meiji-jingumae stations

Tokyo’s largest park, Yoyogi-kōen, is a favourite spot for joggers and bonneted groups of kindergarten kids with their minders. Once an imperial army training ground, the park was dubbed “Washington Heights” after World War II, when it housed US military personnel. In 1964 the land was given over to the Olympic athletes’ village, after which it became Yoyogi-kōen. Two of the stadia, built for those Olympics and also used to host events in the 2020 Olympics, remain the area’s most famous architectural features: the boat-shaped steel suspension roof of Tange Kenzō’s Yoyogi National Gymnasium was a structural engineering marvel at the time; the smaller stadium, in the shape of a giant swirling seashell, is used for basketball.

Ōta Memorial Museum of Art

太田記念美術館, Ōta Kinen Bijutsukan • 1-10-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku • Tues–Sun 10.30am–5.30pm • Usually ¥700 for regular exhibitions, ¥1000 for special exhibitions • 03 3403 0880, ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp • Harajuku or Meiji-jingūmae stations

Near the crossing of Omotesandō and Meiji-dōri, look out for Laforet, a trendy boutique complex behind which is the excellent Ōta Memorial Museum of Art. Put on slippers to wander the small galleries, set over on two levels, which feature ukiyo-e paintings and prints from the private collection of the late Ōta Seizō, an insurance tycoon. The art displayed comes from a collection of twelve thousand pieces, including masterpieces by Utamaro, Hokusai and Hiroshige.

Design Festa Gallery

デザイン・フェスタ・ギャラリー • 3-20-18 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku • Daily 11am–8pm • Free • 03 3479 1442, designfesta.com • Harajuku or Meiji-jingūmae stations

An anything-goes arts space sprouting out of Harajuku’s backstreets, the Design Festa Gallery is an offshoot of the Design Festa, Japan’s biggest art and design event. Behind the Day-Glo paintings, graffiti, sculptures and red scaffolding swarming over the building’s front like some alien metal creeper, the interior features eclectic displays ranging from quirky sculpture to video installations – even the toilet is plastered from floor to ceiling with artwork.

Aoyama

青山

Harajuku’s chaotic creativity finally gives way to AOYAMA’s sleek sophistication, as Omotesandō crosses Aoyama-dōri and narrows to a two-lane street lined with the boutiques of many of Japan’s top designers.

Okamoto Tarō Memorial Museum

岡本太郎記念館, Okamoto Tarō Kinenkan • 6-1-19 Minami-aoyama, Minato-ku • 10am–5.30pm; closed Tues • ¥620 • taro-okamoto.or.jp • Omotesandō Station

The quirky Okamoto Tarō Memorial Museum once functioned as the studio of the avant-garde artist; it now houses examples of his intriguing, often whimsical work, as well as a pleasant café. If this has whetted your appetite, you might consider heading to the larger Okamoto Taro Museum of Art in Kawasaki, between Tokyo and Yokohama ( www.taromuseum.jp).

Nezu Museum

根津美術館, Nezu Bijutsukan • 6-5-1 Minami-aoyama, Minato-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥1100 • 03 3400 2536, www.nezu-muse.or.jp • Omotesandō or Nogizaka stations

The prestigious Nezu Museum sits at the far eastern end of Omotesandō, in an elegant building designed by Kengo Kuma. The museum houses a classy collection of Oriental treasures, including the celebrated Irises screens, traditionally displayed for a month from the end of each April – expect big crowds for this popular exhibition. The museum’s best feature, enjoyable any time of year and fully justifying the entrance fee, is its extensive garden, which slopes gently away around an ornamental pond. Dotted through it are several traditional teahouses, and mossy stone and bronze sculptures.

Aoyama Reien

青山霊園 • 2-32-2 Minami-aoyama, Minato-ku • Aoyama-itchōme, Gaienmae or Nogizaka stations

Tokyo’s most important graveyard is officially entitled Aoyama Reien, but most know it as Aoyama Bochi. Everyone who was anyone is buried here, and the graves, many decorated with elaborate calligraphy, are interesting to browse. Look out for the section where foreigners are buried: their tombstones provide a history of early gaijin involvement in Japan. Many locals enjoy partying here during the hanami season, under the candyfloss bunches of pink cherry blossoms.

Shibuya

渋谷

It’s hard to beat SHIBUYA, birthplace of a million-and-one consumer crazes, as a mind-blowing introduction to contemporary Tokyo. Teens and twenty-somethings throng Centre Gai (センター街), the shopping precinct that runs between the district’s massive department stores. Centre Gai is bookended to the south by Shibuya Station, visible across the hordes of people navigating the famously busy Shibuya crossing – one of the most famous pedestrian crossings in the world. One perch from which to view the crowds of people swarming across is the bridge corridor linking the JR station with Shibuya Mark City complex. This space has been put to excellent use as the gallery for Okamoto Tarō’s 1969 fourteen-panel painting Myth of Tomorrow (Asu-no-shinwa), a 30m-long mural created in 1969 depicting the moment the atomic bomb exploded in Hiroshima. Although there are a few interesting sights in the area, Shibuya, with a wealth of bars and clubs, is primarily an after-dark destination.

Shibuya Hikarie Building

渋谷ヒカリエ • 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku • Creative Space 8 daily 11am–8pm • hikarie.jp • Shibuya Station

A 34-storey tower rising just east of Shibuya Station, the Shibuya Hikarie complex contains offices, shops, restaurants and various cultural facilities, including a 2000-seat theatre whose lobby provides a sweeping view of the skyline. For regular visitors, the prime attraction is Creative Space 8 on the eighth floor, a mix of gallery space and shops.

Japan Folk Crafts Museum

日本民芸館, Nihon Mingeikan • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥1100 • 03 3467 4527, mingeikan.or.jp • Komaba-Tōdaimae Station

Just two stops down the Keiō Inokashira line from Shibuya Station is the excellent Japan Folk Crafts Museum, a must-see for lovers of handcrafted pottery, textiles and lacquerware. The gift shop is a fine source of souvenirs. Opposite the museum stands a nineteenth-century nagayamon (long gate house), brought here from Tochigi-ken by the museum’s founder, Yanagi Sōetsu.

Shinjuku and the west

Some 4km due west of the Imperial Palace, SHINJUKU (新宿) is the modern heart of Tokyo. From the love hotels and hostess bars of Kabukichō to shop-till-you-drop department stores and hi-tech towers, the district offers a tantalizing microcosm of the city. Vast Shinjuku Station, a messy combination of three train terminals and connecting subway lines, splits the area into two. There’s also the separate Seibu-Shinjuku Station, north of the JR Station. At least two million commuters are fed into these stations every day and spun out of sixty exits. If you get lost here (it’s easily done), head immediately for street level and get your bearings by looking out for the skyscrapers of the Nishi-Shinjuku (西新宿) area to the west.

West of Shinjuku, the JR Chūō line will transport you to a must-see sight for anime fans: the Ghibli Museum at Mitaka. Also out this way is Shimokitazawa, dubbed one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods by Vogue in 2014.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

東京都庁, Tōkyō Tochō • 2-8-1 Nishi-shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; both observation rooms 45F • South observation room daily 9.30am–5.30pm; north observation room daily 9am–11pm; each observation room is closed a couple of days per month • Free; free tours Mon–Fri 10am–3pm • Tochōmae Station

Some 13,000 city bureaucrats clock in each day at the Gotham City-like Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (TMGB), a 400,000-square-metre complex designed by Tange Kenzō. The complex includes twin 48-storey towers, an adjacent tower block, the Metropolitan Assembly Hall (where the city’s councillors meet) and a sweeping, statue-lined and colonnaded plaza.

On the ground floor of the north tower you’ll find the excellent Tokyo Tourist Information Centre; free tours of the complex depart from here. Both the towers have observation rooms; the southern one is quieter and has a pleasant café, while the northern one is usually open later, and features a shopping area and (overpriced) restaurant. It’s worth timing your visit for dusk, so you can see the multicoloured lights of Shinjuku spark into action.

Omoide Yokochō

思い出横丁

Squashed up against the train tracks running north from the Odakyū department store is Omoide Yokochō, commonly known as Memories Alley. Lit by hundreds of akachochin (red lanterns), it’s also known as Shomben Yokochō (しょんべん横丁, Piss Alley), a reference to the time when patrons of the area’s many cramped yakitori joints and bars relieved themselves in the street, for want of other facilities. Don’t be put off: the alley remains a cheap and atmospheric place to eat and drink (and there are toilets these days). A pedestrian tunnel at the southern end of the alleys, just to the right of the cheap clothes outlets, provides a short cut to the east side of Shinjuku Station.

Kabukichō

歌舞伎町 • Northeast of Shinjuku Station

Red-light district KABUKICHŌ is named after a kabuki theatre that was planned for the area in the aftermath of World War II, but never built. For casual wanderers it’s all pretty safe thanks to street security cameras, but at heart it’s still one of the seediest corners of the city. In its grid of streets you’ll see self-consciously primped and preening Japanese male touts who hook women into the male host bars, and the notably less primped gents who do likewise for hostess bars – the yakuza who run the show are there, too, though generally keeping a much lower profile.

HACHIKŌ

A statue outside Shibuya Station marks the waiting spot of Hachikō (1923–35), an Akita dog who would come to greet his master every day as he returned home from work – a practice that continued for almost a decade after the professor’s death, with the dog arriving on time every day to greet the train. Locals were so touched by Hachikō’s devotion that a bronze statue was cast of the dog. During World War II, the original Hachikō statue was melted down for weapons, but a replacement was reinstated beside the station in 1948 – it remains one of Tokyo’s most famous rendezvous spots. You can see the real Hachikō in the National Museum of Science and Nature, where he lives on in stuffed form, and there’s a memorial by his master’s grave in Aoyama Cemetery.

Golden Gai

ゴールデン街

Just west of the Hanazono-jinja is Golden Gai, one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric (and seedy) bar quarters. Since just after World War II, intellectuals and artists have rubbed shoulders with Kabukichō’s demimonde in the tiny bars here. For decades this hugely atmospheric warren of around 150 drinking dens was teetering on the brink of oblivion, the cinderblock buildings under threat from both property developers and from their own shoddy construction. However, Golden Gai has since undergone a mini-renaissance, with a younger generation of bar masters and mistresses taking over – or at least presiding over – some of the shoebox establishments. Many bars continue to welcome regulars only (and charge exorbitant prices to newcomers), but gaijin visitors no longer risk being fleeced rotten, since most places now post their table and drink charges outside the door.

Samurai Museum

サムライミュージアム • 2-25-6 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku • Daily 10.30am–9pm • ¥1900, plus ¥500 to dress up in samurai clothing • samuraimuseum.jp • Shinjuku or Seibu-Shinjuku stations

The Samurai Museum is a funky new addition to the Shinjuku area. Here you can check out displays of samurai costumes and helmets, and if you’re willing to shell out more on top of the already-hefty ticket price you can don similar togs yourself. If you time it right, there are four daily “shows” in which a genuine samurai actor comes by to show off his sword-wielding prowess.

Hanazono-jinja

花園神社 • 5-17-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku • 24hr • Free • Shinjuku, Seibu-Shinjuku, Higashi-shinjuku or Shinjuku-sanchōme stations

Set in grounds studded with vermillion torii, the attractive Hanazono-jinja shrine predates the founding of Edo by the Tokugawa, but the current granite buildings are modern re-creations – the shrine was originally sited where the department store Isetan now is. At night spotlights give the shrine a special ambience, and every Sunday there’s a flea market in its grounds.

Shinjuku Gyoen

新宿御苑 • 11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku-ku • Garden Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm, last entry 4pm; villa second & fourth Sat of month 10am–3pm • ¥500 • Rakū-tei Tues–Sun 10am–4pm • Tea ¥700 • Main entrance Shinjuku-gyoenmae Station; west gate Sendagaya Station

The largest and arguably the most beautiful garden in Tokyo is Shinjuku Gyoen. The grounds, which once held the mansion of Lord Naitō, the daimyō of Tsuruga on the coast of the Sea of Japan, were opened to the public after World War II. Apart from spaciousness, the gardens’ most notable feature is the variety of design. The southern half is traditionally Japanese, with winding paths, stone lanterns, artificial hills, and islands in ponds linked by zigzag bridges, and is home to Rakū-tei, a pleasant teahouse. At the northern end of the park are formal, French-style gardens, with neat rows of tall birch trees and hedge-lined flowerbeds. Clipped, broad lawns dominate the middle of the park, which is modelled on English landscape design.

Western Tokyo

Tokyo sprawls for quite some way west of Shinjuku, and there are some very fashionable neighbourhoods dotted around this densely populated but relatively low-level jigsaw of suburbs. By far the most interesting for shorter-term visitors to Japan is Shimokitazawa, Tokyo’s own little hipster paradise. Heading even further out, but still easily accessible by train, the Suginami area has long been associated with the animation industry; it’s the location for several production houses, and home to many key artists, but of more interest to the traveller is the immensely popular Ghibli Museum.

Shimokitazawa

下北沢 • Shimokitazawa Station, 4 stops west of Shibuya on the Keio-Inokashira line, or 6 stops southwest of Shinjuku on the Odakyū line

Small, cute and quirky, Shimokitazawa – known as Shimokita for short – is a prime draw for young, bohemian sorts, and a nice escape from “regular” Tokyo; gone are the high-rise blocks and incessant noise of Shinjuku, just 5km to the east, replaced here with narrow, relatively traffic-free lanes, and a general air of calm. The charms of Shimokita are essentially the same as most hipster areas around the world: vintage clothing stores, record shops, galleries, live music bars, and independent cafés serving flat whites to people writing blogs on their Macs. There’s not all that much in the way of sights here, bar a couple of tucked-away shrines, but you’ll find plenty of shops, cafés and bars at which to while away the time.

Suginami Animation Museum

杉並アニメーションミュージアム • 3-29-5 Kamiogi, Suginami-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Free • sam.or.jp • 20min walk or 5min bus ride (platform 0 or 1; ¥220) from Ogikubo Station on the JR lines or Marunouchi subway line

Astroboy, Gundam and many other anime characters are all present and correct at the well-organized Suginami Animation Museum, situated atop a retro-looking function hall. Colourful displays trace the development of animation in Japan, from the simple black-and-white 1917 feature Genkanban-no-maki (The Gatekeepers) to digital escapades such as Blood: The Last Vampire. Videos with English subtitles explain how anime are made, while interactive computer games allow you to create your own animations. You can watch anime screenings in the small theatre, and there’s also a library packed with manga and DVDs (some with English subtitles).

Ghibli Museum

ジブリ美術館, Jiburi Bijutsukan • 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-ku • Daily (except Tues) 10am–6pm • ¥1000; advance bookings only (museum can be booked out for weeks at a time); 2400 tickets per day are available (see website for details) • 0570 055777, ghibli-museum.jp • Short walk or bus ride (¥210) from south exit of Mitaka Station, on JR Chūō line; or walkable from Kichijōji Station, also on JR Chūō line

The utterly beguiling Ghibli Museum is one of Tokyo’s top draws for international visitors – and an essential one for those interested in anime. It’s very popular, so reserve tickets well ahead of time. Though it needs little introduction, the Ghibli animation studio was responsible for blockbuster movies including My Neighbour Totoro, Princess Mononoke and the Oscar-winning Spirited Away. Visiting the museum is a little like climbing inside the mind of famed Ghibli director Hayao Miyazaki: walls are plastered with initial sketches of the characters that would eventually garner worldwide fame; a giant clock is bisected by a winding staircase; and – of course – there’s the grinning cat-bus from Totoro. There’s also a small movie theatre where original short animated features, exclusive to the museum, are screened. All in all, it’s a guaranteed fun day out for all that will probably have you scurrying to watch the films later.

Ghibli Museum sits inside pretty Inokashira Park (井の頭公園, Inokashira Kōen); from Kichijoji Station, it’s a pleasant fifteen-minute stroll through the park’s tree-shaded walks to the museum, past a pleasant carp-filled lake and a small zoo. A favourite haunt of courting couples, the park is mobbed by everyone during hanami season, when it explodes in a profusion of pink blossoms.

Ikebukuro and the north

Northern Tokyo’s main commercial hub is IKEBUKURO (池袋). Cheap accommodation and good transport links have attracted an increasing number of expatriates, typically Chinese and Taiwanese, but including a broad sweep of other nationalities, which lends Ikebukuro a faintly cosmopolitan air. Either side of the hectic station (around one million passengers pass through each day), the massive department stores Tōbu and Seibu – two of the largest in Japan – square off against each other. Bar the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Myōnichikan there’s not all that much to see in the area; Ikebukuro is, however, useful as a springboard to interesting sights such as Rikugi-en, a wonderful old stroll-garden.

Myōnichikan

明日館 • 2-31-3 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–4pm, closed during functions • ¥400, or ¥600 including coffee or Japanese tea and sweets • 03 3971 7535, jiyu.jp • Ikebukuro Station

The distinctive Myōnichikan (“House of Tomorrow”) is a former school designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and his assistant Endō Arata. The geometric windows and low-slung roofs are trademark Wright features, but the buildings are best appreciated from inside, where you get the full effect of the clean, bold lines, echoed in the hexagonal chairs, light fittings and other original furnishings.

Rikugi-en

六義園 • 6 Honkomagome, Bunkyō-ku • Daily 9am–5pm, tearoom noon–4.30pm • ¥300; tea ¥300, or ¥600 with a sweet • Entrance on Hongō-dōri, 5min south of Komagome Station

Rikugi-en was designed in the early eighteenth century by high-ranking feudal lord Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu, who took seven years to create this celebrated garden – with its 88 allusions to famous scenes, real or imaginary, from ancient Japanese poetry – and then named it Rikugi-en, “garden of the six principles of poetry”, in reference to the rules for composing waka (poems of 31 syllables). Few of the 88 landscapes have survived – the guide map issued at the entrance identifies a mere eighteen – but Rikugi-en still retains its rhythm and beauty, beginning as you enter with an ancient, spreading cherry tree, then slowly unfolding along paths that meander past secluded arbours and around the indented shoreline of an islet-speckled lake.

Suidōbashi

水道橋

East of Ikebukuro and west of Akihabara lies the district of SUIDŌBASHI, where the stadium, shopping centres and amusement-park thrill rides of Tokyo Dome City punctuate the skyline. The centrepiece is the plump, white-roofed Tokyo Dome (東京ドーム), popularly known as the “Big Egg”, Tokyo’s major baseball venue (see below). Also part of the Dome City complex is the upmarket Spa LaQua onsen.

TOKYO’S LAST TRAMLINE

Early twentieth-century Tokyo boasted a number of tramlines; now only the 12km-long Sakura Tram Line remains, running north from Waseda to Minowa-bashi. The most interesting section lies along a short stretch from Kōshinzuka Station, a fifteen-minute walk northwest of Sugamo Station, from where the line heads southwest towards Higashi-Ikebukuro, rocking and rolling along narrow streets and through Tokyo backyards.

Pre-paid cards can be used on the system, as can Toei day-tickets. Ordinary tickets cost ¥170, however far you travel; pay as you enter.

Tokyo Dome City Attractions

東京ドームシティ アトラクションズ • 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku • Daily 10am–10pm • Individual rides ¥420–1030; passport with unlimited rides adult/age 12–17/age 6–11/age 3–5 ¥4200/3700/2800/2100, discounts after 5pm • 03 5800 9999, at-raku.com • Suidōbashi or Kōrakuen stations

The best rides at the large Tokyo Dome City Attractions amusement park are those in the LaQua section, where the highlight is Thunder Dolphin, a high-speed roller coaster guaranteed to get you screaming (for ages 8 and older). If you haven’t got the stomach for that, try the Big O, the world’s first hub-less and spoke-less Ferris wheel.

Kagurazaka

神楽坂

Just west of Iidabashi Station, the district of Kagurazaka has become a popular spot of late with Tokyoites young and old. Chic restaurants, cafés and shops line Kagarazaka-dōri, the area’s main drag, and there are plenty more dotting the genteel alleyways to the north. If you’re in luck, you’ll spot a geisha or two tripping along the lanes – some still work hereabouts, remnants of the area’s history as an entertainment quarter.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOKYO

If you’re arriving in Tokyo from abroad, you’ll touch down at Narita International Airport or Haneda Airport. If you’re coming to the capital from elsewhere in Japan, it’s more likely that you’ll arrive at one of the main train stations (Tokyo, Ueno, Shinagawa or Shinjuku) or the long-distance bus terminals, the main ones being at Tokyo and Shinjuku stations.

BY PLANE

Narita International Airport (成田国際空港), better known as Narita ( 0476 348000, narita-airport.jp), is some 66km east of the city centre. There are three terminals; T3 is a new wing used by low-cost carriers and designed with a nod to the 2020 Olympics; the other two terminals both have tourist information and accommodation-booking booths. If you have a Japan Rail Pass exchange order you can arrange to use your pass immediately (it’s valid on JR services from the airport); pick it up at the JR travel agencies – not the ticket offices – in the basement, though be aware the queues can be very long. Alternatively, you can collect it later from any major JR station.

Destinations Hiroshima (3 daily; 1hr 40min); Nagoya (6 daily; 1hr 10min); Naha (6 daily; 3hr); Niigata (1 daily: 1hr); Osaka (10 daily: 1hr 20min); Sapporo (1–3 hourly; 1hr 45min).

Haneda Airport Located on a spit of land jutting into Tokyo Bay 20km south of the Imperial Palace, Haneda Airport (羽田空港; 03 5757 8111, haneda-airport.jp) is where most domestic flights touch down, as well as an ever-increasing roster of international services.

Destinations Akita (9 daily; 1hr); Asahikawa (8 daily; 1hr 35min); Fukuoka (2–4 hourly; 1hr 45min–2hr); Hakodate (10 daily; 1hr 15min); Hiroshima (1–2 hourly; 1hr 25min); Kagoshima (1–2 hourly; 1hr 50min); Kōchi (10 daily; 1hr 50min); Komatsu (for Kanazawa; 10 daily; 1hr); Kumamoto (1–2 hourly; 1hr 50min); Kushiro (6 daily; 1hr 35min); Matsuyama (8–11 daily; 1hr 30min); Miyazaki (1–2 hourly; 1hr 45min); Nagasaki (1–3 hourly; 1hr 55min); Ōita (for Beppu; 1–2 hourly; 1hr 30min); Okayama (10 daily; 1hr 20min); Okinawa (Naha; 1–4 hourly; 2hr 30min); Osaka (2–3 hourly; 1hr); Sapporo (1–4 hourly; 1hr 30min); Takamatsu (10–12 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokushima (8–11 daily; 1hr 15min); Toyama (4–6 daily; 1hr); Wakkanai (1–2 daily; 1hr 45min); Yamagata (2 daily; 1hr).

BY TRAIN

Shinkansen and other JR trains Most Shinkansen train journeys start or finish at Tokyo Station (東京駅), close to the Imperial Palace. Those heading to or from the west also call at Shinagawa Station (品川駅), around 6km southwest, while trains travelling north will also call at Ueno Station (上野駅), some 4km northeast of the Imperial Palace. All three stations are on the Yamanote line and are connected to several subway lines. Other long-distance JR services stop at Tokyo and Ueno stations, Shinjuku Station (新宿駅) on Tokyo’s west side and Ikebukuro Station (池袋駅) in the city’s northwest corner.

Non-JR trains Non-JR trains terminate at different stations: the Tōkyū Tōyoko line from Yokohama ends at Shibuya Station (渋谷駅); the Tōbu Nikkō line runs from Nikkō to Asakusa Station (浅草駅), east of Ueno; and the Odakyū line from Hakone finishes at Shinjuku Station, which is also the terminus for the Seibu-Shinjuku line from Kawagoe. All these stations have subway connections and (apart from Asakusa) are on the Yamanote rail line.

Asakusa Station destinations Nikkō (1–2 hourly; 1hr 55min).

Shibuya Station destinations Yokohama (every 5min; 30min).

Shinjuku Station destinations Hakone (hourly; 1hr 30min); Kamakura (every 10–20min; 1hr); Matsumoto (18 daily; 2hr 35min); Nikkō (2 direct daily; 1hr 55min); Shimoda (1 direct daily; 2hr 45min); Yokohama (every 20–30min; 30min).

Tokyo Station destinations Fukuoka (Hakata Station; 2 hourly; 5hr); Hiroshima (hourly; 4–5hr); Kamakura (every 10–20min; 1hr); Karuizawa (hourly; 1hr 20min); Kyoto (every 15–30min; 2hr 15min–3hr 40min); Morioka (3 hourly; 2hr 20min–3hr 30min); Nagano (every 30min–1hr; 1hr 40min–2hr); Nagoya (every 15–30min; 1hr 40min–3hr); Niigata (1–3 hourly; 2hr–2hr 20min); Okayama (every 30min–1hr; 3hr 15min–4hr); Sendai (every 10–15min; 1hr 40min–2hr 20min); Shimoda (hourly; 2hr 40min–3hr); Shin-Kōbe (every 30min–1hr; 3hr 15min); Shin-Osaka (every 15–30min; 2hr 30min–4hr 10min); Yokohama (every 5–10min; 40min).

BY BUS

Long-distance buses pull in at several major stations around the city. The main overnight services from Kyoto and Osaka arrive beside the eastern Yaesu exit of Tokyo Station; other buses arrive at Ikebukuro, Shibuya, Shinagawa and Shinjuku.

Ikebukuro Station destinations Ise (3 daily; 8hr); Kanazawa (4 daily; 7hr 30min); Nagano (4 daily; 4hr 10min); Niigata (hourly; 5hr 30min); Osaka (1 daily; 8hr); Toyama (3 daily; 6hr 50min).

TRANSPORT BETWEEN THE CITY AND AIRPORTS

Whether you’re landing at Narita or Haneda, the number of options for transport into central Tokyo can be somewhat bewildering.

NARITA AIRPORT

Keisei trains The fastest way into Tokyo from Narita is on the Skyliner express train (1–3 hourly, 7.30am–10.30pm; 41min to Ueno; ¥2470) operated by Keisei ( keisei.co.jp), who also offer the cheapest train connection into town in the form of the tokkyū (limited express) service (every 30min; 6am–11pm; 1hr 11min to Ueno; ¥1030). Both services stop at Nippori, where it’s easy to transfer to the Yamanote or the Keihin Tōhoku lines.

JR trains JR’s Narita Express, also known as the N’EX ( www.jreast.co.jp/e/nex), runs to several city stations. The cheapest fare is ¥3020 to Tokyo Station (every 30min, 7.45am–9.45pm; 1hr), and there are also frequent direct N’EX services to Shinjuku (hourly; 1hr 20min; ¥3190). N’EX services to Ikebukuro (1hr 20min; ¥3190) and Yokohama (1hr 30min; ¥4290) via Shinagawa are less frequent. JR usually run some kind of discount scheme for foreign passport holders; at the time of writing, return tickets valid for two weeks were available to all stations (even Yokohama) for ¥4000. You can save some money by taking the slightly slower, but far less comfortable, JR kaisoku (rapid) train to Tokyo Station (hourly; 1hr 25min; ¥1320).

Buses The cheapest way into Tokyo is on the Access Narita buses ( accessnarita.jp), which head to Ginza and Tokyo stations, and cost just ¥1000; they depart every fifteen minutes at peak times, and even have toilets on board, but they can be prone to traffic delays. You can pay with cash on the bus. Alternatively, the more costly Airport Limousine buses ( 03 3665 7220, www.limousinebus.co.jp) can be useful if you’re weighed down by luggage and staying at or near a major hotel; journeys to central Tokyo typically cost ¥3100, and take at least ninety minutes. The ¥3400 Limousine & Metro Pass combines a one-way bus trip from Narita to central Tokyo and a 24-hour metro pass valid on nine of Tokyo’s thirteen subway lines.

Taxis Taxis to the city centre cost around ¥30,000, and are little faster than going by bus.

HANEDA AIRPORT

Monorail From Haneda Airport, it’s a short monorail journey (every 5–10min, 5.20am–11.15pm; 13–19min; ¥490) to Hamamatsuchō Station on the Yamanote line.

Train Alternatively, you can board a Keihin Kūkō-line train to Shinagawa (every 10min; 24min; ¥410) or Sengakuji, and connect directly with other rail and subway lines.

Buses Limousine bus ( 03 3665 7220, www.limousinebus.co.jp) to the city centre will set you back ¥1030–1230, depending upon your destination, and take around an hour; the same goes for the Haneda Airport Express services ( hnd-bus.com).

Taxis A taxi from Haneda to central Tokyo costs ¥4000–8000.

Shibuya Station destinations Himeji (1 daily; 9hr); Kōbe (1 daily; 8hr 40min).

Shinagawa Station Hirosaki (1 daily; 9hr 15min); Imabari (1 daily; 12hr 10min); Kurashiki (1 daily; 11hr); Tokushima (1 daily; 9hr 20min).

Shinjuku Station destinations Akita (5 daily; 8hr 30min); Fuji-yoshida (14 daily; 1hr 50min); Fukuoka (1 daily; 14hr 20min); Hakone-Tōgendai (14 daily; 2hr 10min); Kawaguchi-ko (14 daily; 1hr 45min); Kurashiki (4 daily; 11hr); Matsumoto (16 daily; 3hr 10min); Nagano (10 daily; 3hr 40min); Nagoya (20 daily; 7hr 10min); Okayama (5 daily; 10hr 30min); Osaka (every 5–10min from 9pm–1am; 7hr 40min); Sendai (15 daily; 5hr 30min–6hr 30min); Takayama (2 daily; 5hr 30min).

Tokyo Station destinations Aomori (2 daily; 9hr 30min); Fukui (3 daily; 8hr); Hiroshima (1–2 daily; 12hr); Kōchi (2 daily; 11hr 35min); Kyoto (9 daily; 8hr); Matsuyama (1–2 daily; 11hr 55min); Morioka (2 daily; 7hr 30min); Nagoya (23 daily; 5hr 20min); Nara (2 daily; 9hr 30min); Osaka (2 daytime services and every 10–20min from 9pm–1am; 8hr 20min); Sendai (1 daily; 5hr 30min).

BY FERRY

Takeshiba Ferry Terminal (竹芝フェリーターミナル) Jetfoils (2 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr 10min) and ferries (6–7 weekly; 4hr 20min–8hr) to Ōshima run from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Ferry Terminal, two stops from Shimbashi on the Yurikamome monorail. They are operated by Tōkai Kisen ( 03 5472 9999, tokaikisen.co.jp).

Tokyo Ferry Terminal (東京フェリーターミナル) Long-distance ferries to and from Tokushima in Shikoku (1 daily; 18hr) and Kita-Kyūshū in Kyūshū (1 daily; 34hr) run from Tokyo Ferry Terminal at Ariake, on the man-made island of Odaiba in Tokyo Bay; for details, see Ocean Tōkyū Ferry ( 03 3528 1011, www.otf.jp). Buses run from the port to Shin-Kiba Station, from which you can catch the metro or the overland JR Keiyō line. A taxi from the port to central Tokyo costs around ¥2000.

TOKYO TRANSPORT PASSES

Although they don’t save you any money, the most convenient way to travel is to use a Pasmo ( pasmo.co.jp) or JR Suica stored-value card. Both can be used on all subways, many buses and both JR and private trains in the wider Tokyo area. The card can be recharged at ticket machines and ticket offices. To get either card (available from ticket machines in metro and JR stations), you have to spend a minimum of ¥2000, of which ¥500 is a deposit, which will be returned to you, plus any remaining value (minus a small processing fee) when you cash in the card before leaving Tokyo.

If you need to ride Tokyo’s metro and trains a lot in the space of a day, you’ll find both Tokyo Metro and Toei have day tickets for use exclusively on their own subway systems (¥600 and ¥700 respectively); the Toei pass also covers the city’s buses and single tramline. However, it’s usually more convenient to get a one-day economy pass covering both systems for ¥800.

GETTING AROUND

Getting around Tokyo is easy thanks to the city’s super-efficient trains and subways, and there are also a couple of monorails, one tramline – the Toden-Arakawa Line – and many buses. Walking and cycling are great ways to explore.

SUBWAY

Its colourful map may look daunting, but Tokyo’s subway is relatively easy to negotiate: the simple colour coding on trains and maps, as well as clear signposts (many also in English), directional arrows and alpha-numeric station codes, make this by far the most gaijin-friendly form of transport. You’ll have a much less crowded journey if you avoid travelling at rush hour (7.30–9am & 5.30–7.30pm).

Subway network There are two systems, the nine-line Tokyo Metro ( www.tokyometro.jp) and the four-line Toei ( www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp). The systems share some stations, but unless you buy a special ticket from the vending machines that specifies your route from one system to the other, or you have a pass, you cannot switch mid-journey between the two sets of lines without paying extra at the ticket barrier; the fare is deducted automatically if you’re using a card. Subways also connect to overland train lines, such as the Yamanote.

Tickets Most travel is now done by card, but paper tickets can be bought at the vending machines beside the electronic ticket gates (ticket sales windows are only found at major stations). Most trips across central Tokyo cost ¥170–370. Ticket machines generally have multi-language functions, but if you’re fazed by the wide range of price buttons, buy the cheapest ticket (usually ¥170) and sort out the difference with the gatekeeper at the other end.

Running times Trains run from around 5am to just after midnight, and during peak daytime hours as frequently as every 5min (and at least every 15min at other times).

Station exits Leaving a station can be complicated by the number of exits, but there are maps close to the ticket barriers and on the platforms indicating where the exits emerge, and strips of yellow tiles on the floor mark the routes to the ticket barriers.

TRAINS

JR East trains ( jreast.co.jp) are another handy way of getting around the city. The various JR lines all have their own colour coding on maps – take care not to confuse these with those of the subway network. The main lines you’ll find useful are the circular Yamanote (coloured lime green on the transport map), and the orange Chūō line, which starts at Tokyo Station and runs west to Shinjuku and the suburbs beyond. It’s fine to transfer between JR lines on the same ticket, but you’ll have to buy a new ticket if you transfer to a subway line, unless you have a travel card.

Tickets and passes The lowest fare on JR lines is ¥140. Ticket machines are easy to operate if buying single tickets, if you can find your destination on the network maps. Both Pasmo and JR Suica prepaid cards (see below) work at the ticket gates, while JR also run their own one-day Tokunai Pass (¥750), which gives unlimited travel within the Tokyo Metropolitan District Area.

BUSES

Once you’ve got a feel for the city, buses can be a good way of cutting across the few areas not served by a subway or train line. Only a small number of the buses or routes are labelled in English. The final destination is listed on the front of the bus, along with the route number. You pay on entry, by dropping the flat rate (¥210) into the fare box by the driver (there’s a machine in the box for changing notes).

MONORAIL

Tokyo has a couple of monorail systems: the Tokyo monorail, which runs from Hamamatsuchō to Haneda Airport; and the Yurikamome monorail, which connects Shimbashi with Toyosu via Odaiba. These services operate like the city’s private rail lines – you buy separate tickets for journeys on them or travel using the various stored-value cards, such as Pasmo and Suica.

BIKE

The easiest means of getting hold of a bike is the Community Cycle ( docomo-cycle.jp) scheme, which has cycle docks across the city; after registering online (you pay with your bank card) and receiving a pass code, it’s ¥150 for the first half-hour, then ¥100 for each subsequent one.

FERRIES

The Tokyo Cruise Ship Company ( suijobus.co.jp) runs several ferry services, known as suijō basu (water buses), in and around Tokyo Bay. Many depart from or pass through Hinode Pier on Tokyo Ba; it’s close by Hinode Station on the Yurikamome monorail, or a 10min walk from Hamamatsuchō Station on the Yamanote line.

Sumida-gawa service Regular boats ply the route between Hinode Pier and Asakusa to the northeast of the city centre (every 30–50min, 10am–6.30pm; 40min; ¥860); some boats call at the Hama Rikyū Teien, entry to which is often included with the ticket price. The ferries’ large picture windows give a completely different view of the city from the one you’ll get on the streets – reason enough for hopping aboard.

Himiko and Hotaluna For a few yen more you can travel on the Himiko or the Hotaluna, near-identical space-age ferries designed by Matsumoto Reiji, a famous manga artist. Both run from Asakusa to Odaiba (6 daily; ¥1720), sometimes via Hinode Pier. At night, the Himiko changes its name to Jicoo and morphs into a floating bar.

Ferries to Odaiba Hinode Pier is the jumping-off point for regular ferries to various points around the island of Odaiba (20min; from ¥520), operated by the Tokyo Cruise Ship Company.

Cruises Several good cruises around Tokyo Bay depart from Hinode Pier daily; the most interesting are those including eat-all-you-can buffets.

TAXIS

For short hops, taxis are often the best option. The basic rate is ¥410 for the first 1km, after which the meter racks up ¥80 every 237m, plus a time charge when the taxi is moving at less than 10km per hour. Between 11pm and 5am, rates are 25 percent higher.When flagging down a taxi, note that a red light next to the driver means the cab is free; green means it’s occupied. There are designated stands in the busiest parts of town, but be prepared for long queues after the trains stop at night, especially in areas such as Roppongi and Shinjuku.

Taxi firms Major taxi firms include Hinomaru Limousine ( 03 3212 0505, hinomaru.co.jp) and Nippon Kōtsū ( 03 3799 9220, www.nihon-kotsu.co.jp/en). Uber ( uber.com) is functional in Tokyo, though it’s not all that much cheaper than the regular cabs (and, in fact, quite often more expensive).

INFORMATION AND TOURS

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

Asakusa Culture and Sightseeing Centre 03 3842 5566. Near Asakusa Station and housed in a highly distinctive building designed by Kengo Kuma. Daily 9am–8pm.

Japan National Tourism Organization jnto.go.jp. The JNTO maintains a number of overseas offices – see the website for a full list of locations. They have tourist information kiosks in the arrivals halls at Narita and Haneda airports.

Tokyo City i B1F Kitte Building, 2-7-2 Marunouchi en.tokyocity-i.jp; Tokyo Station. The city’s best tourist information centre, with multilingual staff, accommodation- and tour-booking facilities, and good general advice. Daily 8am–8pm.

Tokyo Tourist Information Centre 1F Tokyo Metropolitan Government No. 1 Building, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku 03 5321 3077, gotokyo.org; Tochōmae station. Another excellent tourist information centre (TIC), though it’s a little bit out of the way unless you’re visiting the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Daily 9.30am–6.30pm.

OTHER INFORMATION

Websites and apps The official online sources for Tokyo information are the excellent websites of the Tokyo Convention and Visitors Bureau ( tcvb.or.jp) and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government ( tourism.metro.tokyo.jp). Those with smartphones should consider downloading one of the many free city subway apps, which provide invaluable maps, as well as route and fare information, with many working offline. A Japanese-language app can also come in handy when dining out.

THE GRUTT PASS

One of the best deals on offer in Tokyo is the Grutt Pass. For ¥2200 you get a ticket booklet which allows free or discounted entry to seventy attractions, including all major museums. Valid for two months after first being used, the ticket can be bought at participating venues and the Tokyo Tourist Information Centre in Shinjuku, among other outlets.

Maps Bilingual maps on public notice boards outside the main exits to most subway and train stations are handy for getting your immediate bearings. There are also decent maps online – Google’s is typically excellent, while with a little hunting you’ll be able to find apps offering offline-friendly maps of the city ( maps.me is a good one). Equally useful are maps portraying the Tokyo subway network, since such maps are not visible anywhere once you’re on the trains themselves – there is, of course, one in this Guide.

Magazines The free monthly magazine Metropolis ( metropolisjapan.com) is packed with interesting features, reviews, and listings of films, music and other events, as is their website; the same can be said for Time Out ( timeout.com/tokyo), whose magazine comes out every three months. You’ll find these publications at TICs, larger hotels, foreign-language bookshops and places frequented by gaijin.

TOURS

There are the usual bus tours and some interesting walking options, but if these are not your cup of tea, then try a cycling or go-kart tour.

BUS TOURS

Established operations such as Hato Bus Tours ( hatobus.com) and Japan Grey Line ( www.jgl.co.jp/inbound) offer a wide variety of tours, from half-day jaunts around the central sights (¥4500) to visits out to Kamakura, Nikkō and Hakone (from ¥14,000).

Sky Bus 03 3215 0008, skybus.jp. Offers four tours, most in open-top double-decker buses, including a route around the Imperial Palace grounds and through Ginza and Marunouchi (50min; ¥1600), and an Odaiba night tour (2hr; ¥2100). They also have three hop-on, hop-off routes (¥3500), with tickets valid for 24hr.

WALKING TOURS

Free walking tours with English-speaking guides are available on selected days of the week in various parts of the city: around the Imperial Palace (Wed, Sat & Sun 1pm), starting from just east of the palace moat; around Ueno (Wed, Fri & Sun 10.30am & 1.30pm), starting from Green Salon, on the park-side exit of Ueno Station; and around Asakusa (Sat & Sun 11am & 1.15pm), starting from the Asakusa Culture and Sightseeing Centre.

Eyexplore Tokyo eyexploretokyo.com. Small outfit running a few photo-tours of the city (¥9900).

Haunted Tokyo hauntedtokyotours.com. Interesting English-language tours focusing on the spookier parts of Tokyo’s history (usually 2–3hr; ¥4500).

CYCLING TOURS

Tokyo Great Cycling Tour 03 4590 2995, tokyocycling.jp. See the capital on a series of guided bike tours (1hr 30min–6hr; ¥3000–10,000, sometimes including lunch).

GO-KART TOURS

Street Kart kart.st. A fun go-kart tour inspired by the Mario Kart game.

ACCOMMODATION

The choice of accommodation in Tokyo ranges from no-expense-spared luxury hotels to atmospheric ryokan and budget hostels charging around ¥2500 a night. Central Tokyo (comprising Ginza, Nihombashi, Akasaka and Roppongi) is largely the domain of expensive, world-class establishments and upmarket business hotels. For cheaper rooms, there’s a greater choice in Shinagawa, Shibuya and Shinjuku to the south and east, and Asakusa, Ueno and Ikebukuro in the north – Asakusa in particular has a large concentration of hostels. Quirkier options include capsule hotels and love hotels. Wherever you stay, remember that trains stop running around midnight; if you’re a night animal, opt for somewhere near one of the entertainment districts to avoid costly taxi journeys.

ESSENTIALS

Reservations Whatever your budget, it’s wise to reserve your first few nights’ accommodation before arrival. The international standbys have plenty of Tokyo options – try trivago.com for hotels or hostelworld.com for hostels – but a good local site for ryokan accommodation is ryokan.or.jp.

Taxes In addition to the standard hotel taxes there’s an extra charge of ¥100 per person per night on rooms costing over ¥10,000 per night, and ¥200 for those costing ¥15,000 or above.

THE IMPERIAL PALACE AND AROUND MAP

Hoshinoya 星のや 1-9-1 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda-ku 050 3786 1144, hoshinoyatokyo.com; Ōtemachi Station. A top-end hotel with ryokan-like elements to its decor and service. Despite being seventeen floors high, it all feels rather intimate; the scent of flowers and incense wafts through the common areas, and rooms manage to exude a traditional yet contemporary air. ¥80,000

Tokyo Station 東京ステーションホテル 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku 03 5220 1111, www.thetokyostationhotel.jp; Tokyo Station. It has been great to see this grand old dame back in business – this hotel, set within Tokyo Station itself, first opened for business in 1915, but was closed throughout the station’s mammoth refurb. Following the template set by the hotel renovations at London’s St Pancras, designers have plumped for dainty Euro-chic in the rooms, and set chandeliers all over the place. ¥47,000

TOKYO’S BEST PLACES TO STAY

Best for views Conrad Tokyo

Best modern-style ryokan Andon Ryokan

Best for luxury Hoshinoya

Best old-school ryokan Sukeroku-no-yado Sadachiyo

Best love hotel J-Mex

Best hostel Bunka Hostel

GINZA AND AROUND MAP

Conrad Tokyo コンラッド東京 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku 03 6388 8000, conradtokyo.co.jp; Shiodome Station. This luxury hotel easily holds its own when it comes to cutting-edge contemporary design and five-star facilities. But it’s the views that really steal the show – from the lobby and bayside rooms feast your eyes on what are arguably the best vistas in Tokyo, taking in Hama Rikyū Teien, Odaiba and the Rainbow Bridge. It’s absolutely magical at night. ¥64,000

Imano Tokyo Ginza いまの東京銀座 1-5-10 Shintomi, Chūō-ku 03 5117 2131, imano.jp; Shintomicho Station. Backpackers rejoice – the Ginza area finally has a decent hostel! Somehow it even manages to look quite swanky, especially the almost naval blue-and-pine colour scheme of the lobby. The second-floor lounge makes for a great hang-out spot, and the rooms are all spick and span too. Dorms ¥3400, twins ¥10,000

Mitsui Garden Ginza 三井ガーデンホテル銀座 8-13-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3543 1131, www.gardenhotels.co.jp; Shimbashi Station. Italian designer Piero Rissoni’s chic design for Mitsui’s flagship hotel helps it stand out from the crowd. Rooms are decorated in earthy tones with great attention to detail, but it’s the bird’s-eye views of the city and bay that grab the attention – quite spectacular from each and every room. ¥27,500

Sunroute Ginza ホテルサンルート銀座 1-15-11 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 5579 9733, sunroute.jp; Ginza-itchōme Station. This business hotel is one of the cheaper options in fancy Ginza (especially if you book online), and just a few minutes’ walk from several metro stations. Rooms are stylish and well equipped, and surprisingly large for the price and location. ¥21,000

AKIHABARA AND AROUND MAP

Anne Hostel庵ホステル 2-21-14 Yanagibashi, Taitō-ku 03 5829 9090, j-hostel.com; Asakusabashi or Kuramae stations. A lovely little place: part hostel, part traditional minshuku, it’s tremendously popular with international guests. Most rooms, even a couple of the dorms, boast tatami flooring, and prices include a decent little breakfast. Dorms ¥2600, twins ¥6800

Citan シタン 15-2 Nihambashiodenma-chō, Chūō-ku 03 6661 7559, backpackersjapan.co.jp; Bakuroyokoyama Station. The best hostel choice in the wider Akihabara area, even though it’s basically a two-star hotel; you can have a great coffee at this little slice of hipster paradise, and they’ve a surprisingly good wine list at the bar. Dorms ¥3000, twins ¥9000

Juraku ホテルジュラク 2-9 Kanda-Awajichō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3271 7222, hotel-juraku.co.jp/ocha; Ochanomizu or Akihabara stations. Now, this is a super little place. On entry, it comes across as something like a four-star, with a quirky, faux-industrial facade and a smart, honey-toned lobby. The rooms (some female-only) are superbly designed too. Throw in a convenient location and cheery staff, and you can’t really go wrong. ¥17,000

Nui Hostel & Bar Lounge ヌイホステルバーラウンジ 2-14-13 Kuramae, Taitō-ku 03 6240 9854, backpackersjapan.co.jp/nui; Kuramae Station. Just 15min on foot from Asakusa, this hostel is an excellent choice. The funky common area features a bar that’s hugely popular with locals, and a great mingling spot; the pine beds in the dorms aren’t quite as fancy, but they do the job. Dorms ¥3000, doubles ¥7600

UENO AND AROUND MAP

Graphy Nezu グラフィ根津 4-5-10 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku 03 3828 7377, hotel-graphy.com; Nezu Station. Converted from a small apartment block, this is the best of the many good-value options which have proliferated around Nezu and Yakata in recent years, with winning, English-speaking staff, communal kitchen facilities, and well-appointed rooms (though you’ll have to pay a little more for an en suite). Locals often pop by to mingle with guests in the café-bar. ¥11,000

Ryokan Sawanoya 旅館澤の屋 2-3-11 Yanaka, Taitō-ku 03 3822 2251, sawanoya.com; Nezu Station. A home from home walking distance of Ueno Park, offering good-value tatami rooms. Few are en suite, but the two lovely Japanese-style baths more than compensate. Facilities also include bike hire (¥300 per day), coin laundry and complimentary tea and coffee. No meals. Singles ¥5600, doubles ¥10,600

Nohga ノーガホテル 2-21-10 Higashi-Ueno, Taitō-ku 03 5816 0211, nohgahotel.com; Ueno Station. There’s plenty of competition at this price level in Ueno, but this boutique hotel stands out for its artistic leanings – many of the pieces you’ll see around the hotel rotate in the manner of gallery exhibitions, and if you’re here at the right time you may get to see one of their many collaborations with local artisans. Rooms are suitably attractive, and there’s a great restaurant on site. ¥15,000

CAPSULE HOTELS

Capsule hotels mostly used to be functional places for people who’d missed their trains. Nowadays, though, there are flashy variants opening up all around the city.

Capsule Inn Komagome カプセルイン駒込 2-4-8 Nakazato, Kita-ku 03 3915 6670; Komagome Station; map. A little way out in Komagome, this is one of the cheapest capsule hotels in Tokyo, and it has a dedicated female-only floor. The communal hot tubs are a nice touch. No wi-fi. ¥3000

Ginza Bay Hotel 銀座ベイホテル 7-13-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 6226 1078, bay-hotel.jp; Higashi-Ginza Station; map. Though no more expensive than most capsule hotels, this one has been designed with far more than usual, with little flourishes such as gorgeous pine fittings in the bathing areas, and USB ports in the pods. It’s also the cheapest place to stay in the Ginza area, and has a female-only floor; for ¥500 extra, you can choose a berth with a small TV inside. ¥3800

Glansit Akihabara グランジット秋葉原 4-4-6 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku 03 3526 3818, glansit.jp; Suehirocho or Akihabara stations; map. Now here’s a fancy one. The lobby of this upscale capsule hotel would put many hotels to shame, and the snazzy design continues all the way to the berths, and the wonderful bathing facilities. Rates vary widely depending upon which day you stay; book online. ¥5000

The Millennials Shibuya 1-20-13 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku 03 6824 9410, themillennials.jp; Shibuya Station; map. One of the new breed of stylish capsule hotels now popping up around Tokyo, this has been a real hit with younger travellers, and not just due to the central-Shibuya location. Most of the pods here have been given artistic makeovers (some very jazzy), and the happy hours in the lobby lounge give guests a great chance to mingle. While prices are on the high side, the rate does include breakfast, and you may find that rates are usually discounted on weekdays, too. ¥10,000

ASAKUSA MAP

1980 Hostel １泊１９８０円ホテル 3-10-10 Shitaya, Taitō-ku 03 6240 6027, 1980stay.com; Inya Station. The numbers in the name are the price, not the year – this is basically the cheapest hostel in Tokyo, and its capsule-like beds are just fine. Dorms ¥1980

Andon Ryokan 行燈旅館 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi, Taitō-ku 03 3873 8611, andon.co.jp; Minowa Station. Architectural gem, fusing traditional ryokan design with modern materials. The dimly lit tatami rooms share bathrooms and are tiny, but sport DVD players and very comfortable futons. Other plusses include a top-floor jacuzzi spa you can book for private dips, and regular events such as sake tastings and tea ceremonies. Breakfast included. Singles ¥6500, doubles ¥8100

Asakusa Central 浅草セントラルホテル 1-5-3 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3847 2222, pelican.co.jp/asakusacentralhotel; Asakusa Station. Modest business hotel which rises above local competition thanks to a winning combination of English-speaking staff, a convenient location on Asakusa’s main street, and small but well-appointed rooms, all of which come with TV and telephone. ¥14,000

Bunka Hostel ブンカホステル 1-13-5 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 5806 3444, bunkahostel.jp; Asakusa Station. A remarkably stylish addition to the Asakusa hostel scene, with comfy, curtained-off berths adding some rare privacy to the dorm experience – a true bargain, as far as Tokyo accommodation goes. The lobby bar is a real winner, too. Dorms ¥3550

Khaosan Tokyo Origami カオサン東京オリガミ 3-4-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3871 6678, khaosan-tokyo.com; Asakusa Station. Part of the Khaosan chain, but a far more appealing option than the unfriendly original – rooms have been given Japanese stylings, and you’ll see a fair few paper cranes around the place. There are grand views of Asakusa from the lounge, and the location can’t be sniffed at; book online for discounted rates. Dorms ¥3800, doubles ¥10,000

Retrometro Backpackers レトロメトロバックパッカーズ 2-19-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 6322 7447, retrometrobackpackers.com; Asakusa or Tawaramachi stations. As far as backpackers go, it takes one to know one, and the owner of this tiny, two-dorm hostel (one dorm is female-only) certainly knows her stuff. Balinese and Thai stylings betray her favourite former travel destinations, and there’s a sense of cosiness here absent from some of Tokyo’s larger hostels. Dorms ¥2600

Sukeroku-no-yado Sadachiyo 助六の宿 貞千代 2-20-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3842 6431, sadachiyo.co.jp; Asakusa or Tawaramachi stations. Step back into Edo-era Asakusa in this delightful old inn marked by a willow tree and stone lanterns, northwest of Sensō-ji. The elegant tatami rooms are all en suite, though you can also use the traditional Japanese-style baths. Dinner and breakfast are included, and they can also arrange performances of traditional arts, including geisha dances.¥21,600

BAYSIDE TOKYO MAP

Grand Nikkō ホテルグランドニッコー 2-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku 03 5500 6711, tokyo.grand-nikko.com; Daiba monorail. Rising up over the bay, the most luxurious of Odaiba’s hotels has a light-filled lobby, walls peppered with contemporary art and, from all but the lower levels, great views of the Rainbow Bridge and the city across Tokyo Bay. Rooms are spacious (you’ll pay a bit more for bridge views), and staff helpful to a tee. ¥51,000

AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI MAP

Andaz アンダズ 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku 03 6830 1234, tokyo.andaz.hyatt.com; Toranomon Station. Japan’s first branch of Hyatt’s luxury Andaz offshoot has touched down in Tokyo, taking up the upper section of the new Toranomon Hills complex. No attention to detail has been spared, from the perfumed lobby to the immaculate rooms, all decorated with Japanese-style flourishes from award-winning interior designers. ¥48,000

The Glanz ホテルザグランツ 2-21-3 Azabu-Jūban, Minato-ku 03 3455 7770, theglanz.jp; Azabu-Jūban Station. Highly appealing option with sleek, designer-style rooms including spa-style bathrooms and glimpses of Tokyo Tower. There are reduced rates on weekdays, and if you check in after 10pm. Breakfast included. ¥15,000

Grand Hyatt Tokyo グランドハイアットホテル東京 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 4333 1234, tokyo.grand.hyatt.jp; Roppongi Station. Glamour is the order of the day at this big-player hotel. The rooms’ appealing design uses wood and earthy-toned fabrics, and restaurants and bars are all very chic, particularly The Oak Door and the slick sushi bar Roku Roku. ¥62,000

Kaisu カイス 6-13-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 5797 7711, kaisu.jp; Akasaka Station. Think you might prefer Akasaka to Asakusa? This is one of the only hostels in the club-heavy Roppongi area – it’s not cheap, but being able to stagger home certainly saves money over a long cab ride. This is no party hostel, however, but a beautiful place set into an old geisha house; they do, however, also have an excellent on-site bar. Dorms ¥4300

The Ritz-Carlton リッツカールトン東京 Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 6434 8100, ritzcarlton.com; Roppongi Station. Occupying the top nine floors of the 53-floor Midtown Tower, this ultra-luxury hotel has a more contemporary look than usual for a Ritz-Carlton. The choice is between deluxe rooms or suites – both offering the height of comfort. ¥81,000

EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH

Akimoto 旅荘秋元 3-2-8 Nakameguro, Meguro-ku 03 3711 4553; Nakameguro Station. This minshuku is a super little find in fashionable Nakameguro, an area which is pricey at the best of times. There are a few floors of small tatami rooms (not en-suite), a general air of calm and an extremely relaxed manager. No wi-fi; no meals. ¥4000

Dormy Inn ドーミーイン目黒青葉台 3-21-8 Aobadai, Meguro-ku 03 3760 2211; Nakameguro Station. Within walking distance of trendy Nakameguro and a stone’s throw from the banks of the delightful Meguro-gawa, this functional business hotel is a good deal. Each room has a hotplate and small fridge, so it’s feasible to self-cater. There’s also a large communal bathroom and sauna, plus free bike rental. ¥17,000

HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA MAP AND THIS MAP

Caravan Tokyo キャラバントウキョウ 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 080 4145 3422, caravantokyo.com; Omotesandō Station. Glamping in Tokyo? Yep, it’s quite possible, at this custom-built caravan located in the Commune 2nd snack-courtyard complex; mod-cons include a/c, heating, a shower and a real bed. Not quite the great outdoors, but pretty great nonetheless. Book on Airbnb. ¥15,000

Cerulean Tower Tōkyū セルリアンタワー東急ホテル 26-1 Sakuragaoka-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3476 3000, ceruleantower-hotel.com; Shibuya Station. Shibuya’s ritziest accommodation, with a range of intriguingly designed rooms, some featuring bathrooms with glittering views of the city. Also on site are a pool and gym (free to guests on the executive floor), several restaurants, a jazz club and even a nō theatre in the basement. ¥52,000

Granbell グランベルホテル 15-17 Sakuragaoka-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 5457 2681, granbellhotel.jp; Shibuya Station. This boutique hotel has a hip feel, courtesy of curtains with Lichtenstein-style prints, kettles and TVs from the trendy local electronics range Plus Minus Zero, and a neutral palette of greys, crisp whites and natural colours. ¥22,000

Two Way ホテルツーウェイ 15-2 Maruyama-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3476 2020, hotel-twoway.jp; Shinsen Station. Of Tokyo’s hundreds upon hundreds of love hotels, this place in Shibuya, with decor that veers towards Southeast Asian in style, is one of the best value. There’s even a “group” room, the infamous #405: goodness only knows what might occasionally go on in here, but on more innocent evenings it’s home to groups of uni students having a boozy party, or even bunches of local lads watching a Premier League football game. “Rest” from ¥3600, “stay” from ¥5700

SHINJUKU AND THE WEST MAP

Gracery Shinjuku ホテルグレイスリー新宿 1-19-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku 03 6833 2489, shinjuku.gracery.com; Seibu-Shinjuku Station. Yes, this is the “Godzilla hotel” that you may have spotted on your walk around Shinjuku. Despite the presence of the hulking beast by the upper-level lobby (he looks particularly fine when guarding you over breakfast), and the stylish rooms, it’s not all that expensive a place to stay. ¥21,000

J-Mex 2-5-6 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku 03 3205 2223; Higashi-Shinjuku Station. This love hotel stands out from the crowd in Kabukichō (where, as you may have noticed, there are quite a few). The racy rooms all have big TVs and karaoke machines, as well as – drum roll, please – built-in sauna units, and glowing spa tubs. It’s not even that pricey, and bookable on some of the main international accommodation websites. “Rest” from ¥5800, “stay” from ¥11,500

Park Hyatt Tokyo パークハイアット東京 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 5322 1234, tokyo.park.hyatt.jp; Tochōmae Station. Occupying the upper section of Tange Kenzō’s Shinjuku Park Tower, this is the epitome of sophistication, and holding up very well to newer rivals. All the huge rooms have breathtaking views, as do the restaurants and spa, pool and fitness centre at the pinnacle of the tower. ¥74,000

Yuen Shinjuku 由縁新宿 5-3-18 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 5361 8355, ryokan-yuen.jp; Shinjuku-gyoemmae Station. Brand new at the time of writing, this “onsen ryokan” combines traditional styling with modern-day luxury – after entering what initially seems like a low-rise building, you may be surprised to find that it’s actually 18 storeys high and topped with onsen pools providing gorgeous views of Shinjuku. Rooms are a little small, but delightful in any case. ¥15,500

IKEBUKURO AND THE NORTH MAP

Hōmeikan Daimachi Bekkan 鳳明館台町別館 5-12-9 Hongō, Bunkyō-ku 03 3811 1187, homeikan.com; Hongō San-chōme or Kasuga stations. A real looker, with ancient carpentry and traditional design. There are no en-suite bathrooms, but all rooms have tatami mats and look out on an exquisite little Japanese garden. Service is impeccable, too. No meals. ¥13,000

Kimi Ryokan 貴美旅館 2-36-8 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku 03 3971 3766, kimi-ryokan.jp; Ikebukuro Station. A great-value institution on Tokyo’s budget scene, and a good place to meet fellow travellers – make sure you book well ahead. Rooms are compact but clean, access to a kitchen helps keep eating costs down and staff are friendly and speak English. There’s a 1am curfew, and the place is a bit tricky to find, in the backstreets of west Ikebukuro. Singles ¥5400, doubles ¥8100

OMO5 2-26-1 Kita-Ōtsuka, Toshima-ku 03 5961 4131, omo-hotels.com; Ōtsuka Station. A new breed emerging from the Hoshinoya stable, this hotel appeals to modern, youthful tastes, with a relaxed vibe, spacious rooms – all duplex in nature – and a snazzy common lounge that also plays host to occasional events. Their “ranger tours” are worth taking (especially since some are free to guests) if you’d like an in-depth look around the charming area. ¥13,000

EATING

When it comes to gastronomic experiences, few places can compare to Tokyo. The number, range and quality of restaurants are breathtaking, with practically any world cuisine you can think of available alongside all the usual (and many unusual) Japanese dishes. There are fantastic choices all over the city, but in general the most exciting places are found around Ginza, Shibuya, Shinjuku and Harajuku. Don’t leave without visiting one of Tokyo’s famous open-air food markets (known as yokochō); such places are inevitably cramped and highly photogenic, and you’ll find a good example in most neighbourhoods. Also of note are a number of “sky restaurants” – many of the city’s tallest towers are topped with restaurant levels, with prices that aren’t necessarily sky-high.

ESSENTIALS

Prices There’s no need to panic. Even Michelin-starred restaurants offer good-value set-meal specials, particularly for lunch. There’s also an abundance of fast-food options, and many cafés also offer light meals. Many izakaya serve decent food, too.

Listings For up-to-date information on Tokyo’s restaurant scene, check out Metropolis ( metropolis.co.jp), Time Out ( timeout.com/tokyo), Bento.com ( bento.com), and the rather more homespun Tokyo Belly ( tokyobelly.com) and Tokyo Cheapo ( tokyocheapo.com).

Cooking courses Learning to cook is currently very popular in Tokyo, but you’ll usually need to book well in advance. Try Buddha Bellies ( 03 5716 5751, buddhabelliestokyo.jimdo.com) for lessons in making sushi, bentō or udon; Mayuko’s Little Kitchen ( 080 3502 2005, mayukoslittlekitchen.com) for Japanese home-cooking; or Arigato Japan ( 090 6484 9577, arigatojapan.co.jp) for highly popular market dining tours.

THE IMPERIAL PALACE AND AROUND MAP

RESTAURANTS

Matsumotorō 松本楼 1-2 Hibiya-kōen, Chiyoda-ku 03 3503 1451, matsumotoro.co.jp; Hibiya Station. On a sunny day it’s a pleasure to sit on the terrace of this venerable restaurant, which is as old as the park – Hibiya-kōen, Tokyo’s first Western-style park – in which it’s located. The food is pretty standard, along the lines of omu-raisu (rice-filled omelette; ¥1400), hamburgers and other Western “favourites”. Daily 10am–9pm.

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TAKESHITA-DŌRI

TOKYO’S BEST RESTAURANTS

Best okonomiyaki Sometarō or Sakuratei

Best veggie ramen T’s Tantan

Best views Hibiki

Best udon Udon Shin

Best sushi Sushi-bun or Sukiyabashi Jiro

Best tempura Hachimaki

Best tofu Sasa-no-yuki or Ume-no-hana

Best yakitori Omoide Yokochō

The Oyster Shack かき小屋 1-6-1 Uchisaiwai-chō, Chiyoda-ku 03 6205 4328, kakigoya.jimdo.com; Shimbashi Station. One of the city’s most atmospheric oyster bars, snuggled under the train track arches north of Shimbashi station. Oysters cost from ¥300, and there’s a whole aquarium’s worth of scallops, turban shells, garlic calamari and other stuff to slurp down. Mon–Fri 4–11.30pm, Sat & Sun noon–11pm.

Tonton 登運とん 2-1-10 Yurakuchō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3508 9454; Hibiya Station. One of the most famous under-the-tracks restaurants in all Tokyo – not entirely on account of its food, most of which is served in grilled-skewer form (offal being the speciality), but more due to its superb location, and an atmospheric, ever-present cloud of smoke which can make the chefs hard to see. Daily 11.30am–10.30pm.

T’s Tantan T’sたんたん Keiyo Street, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku 03 3218 8040, ts-restaurant.jp; Tokyo Station. Veggies and vegans, if you want to have a crack at ramen or Japanese noodles, this is your place. Most go for the vegan ramen, but the spicy, drier tantanmen is even better (¥850), while they also have vegan gyōza and spicy tofu. It’s actually located inside Tokyo station, so you’ll need a train ticket – an ideal pit-stop on your way into or out of Tokyo. Daily 7am–10.30pm.

GINZA AND AROUND MAP

RESTAURANTS

Ginza Hirai 銀座ひらい 5-9-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 6280 6933; Higashi-Ginza Station. About as old-school Ginza as you can get: mustard-yellow walls and dark-wood furnishings make this back-street venue an atmospheric place to tuck into conger eel on rice. ¥1800 will get you a bowl of the stuff, plus pickles and miso soup, which is very cheap for good eel. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–10pm.

Hibiki 響 46F Caretta Shiodome Building, 1-8-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku 03 6215 8051, www.dynac-japan.com/hibiki; Shiodome Station. This modern izakaya boasts some of Tokyo’s best views, high up on the 46th floor with large windows facing out over Tokyo Bay. The cuisine is contemporary Japanese, and lunch sets (¥1300 for the daily special, ¥1200 for a fried fish set) are particularly good value; count on more like ¥6000 a head in the evening. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm & 5–11.30pm, Sat & Sun 11am–4pm & 5–11pm.

Old Thailand オールドタイランド 2-15-3 Shimbashi, Minato-ku 03 6206 1532; Shimbashi Station. Lively Thai restaurant whose menu eschews the regular rundown, instead offering unusual creations such as specialities from the northeastern Isaan region, and delectable Chiang Mai curry noodles (¥1100). Mon–Sat 11.30am–3pm & 5pm–11pm.

Torigin Honten 鳥ぎん本店 5-5-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 3333, torigin-ginza.co.jp; Ginza Station. Bright, popular restaurant hidden away on a side street – look for the red sign. They serve snacks like yakitori (from ¥170 per stick) and kamameshi (kettle-cooked rice with a choice of toppings; from ¥880). Their ¥750 weekday toridon (chicken on rice) lunch sets are a real bargain. Daily 11.30am–10pm.

Ume-no-hana 梅の花 5F 2-3-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3538 2226, umenohana.co.jp; Ginza-itchōme Station. Trickling streams and bamboo screens set the mood in this elegant restaurant specializing in melt-in-the-mouth tofu creations. The tofu comes natural, deep-fried, boiled, grilled or sweetened for dessert; sets change by the season, but lunch courses generally go from ¥2100, while dinner sets start at ¥3560. Daily 11am–4pm & 5–10pm.

CAFÉS

Café de l’Ambre カフェドランブル 8-10-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 1551; Shimbashi Station. This old-school Ginza kissaten has been roasting up 300g batches of beans since the 1950s, achieving something approaching coffee perfection in the intervening years. Most cups (from ¥700) are made with a cotton-felt filter – the process is quite mesmerizing. Mon & Wed–Sat noon–9.30pm, Sun noon–6.30pm.

Henri Charpentier アンリシャルペンティエール 2-8-20 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3562 2721, henri-charpentier.com; Ginza-itchōme Station. At this deep-pink boutique you can enjoy crêpe suzette (¥2500, including a drink), flambéed at your table, as well as a range of gold-flecked chocolate morsels and seasonal specialities; unfortunately, their choice of coffees, teas and infusions can only be sampled if you’re paying for a dessert. Don’t leave before checking out the cleverly hidden toilets. Daily 11am–9pm.

Kiriko Lounge キリコラウンジ 6F Tokyo Tokyu Plaza 5-2-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 6264 5590; Ginza Station. Set in Tokyu Plaza, one of central Tokyo’s newest large developments, this swanky place allows you to drain coffee (from ¥700) with a superlative view of Ginza’s high-rises, through some truly gigantic windows. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–9pm.

AKIHABARA AND AROUND MAP

RESTAURANTS

Go Go Curry ゴーゴーカレー 1-16-1 Kanda-Sakumachō, Chiyoda-ku 03 5256 5525, gogocurry.com; Akihabara Station. No doubt about it, the official meal of Akihabara regulars is tonkatsu curry (fried pork cutlet on rice, smothered in curry sauce), and one of the heartiest you’ll find is at this chain, whose main branch – complete with gorilla logo – is in Akihabara. Plates start at ¥730, and in keeping with the rather odd opening hours (“go” is Japanese for the number five), you get ¥100 off before 5.55pm. Daily 9.55am–9.55pm.

Hachimaki はちまき 1-19 Kanda-Jimbōchō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3291 6222; Jimbōchō Station. Dating back to 1931, this tempura specialist is one of Tokyo’s best time-warp restaurants: black-and-white photos abound, yellowing walls makes it feel like the whole place has been dunked in tea, and there’s nary a sign that you’re in the twenty-first century. Have a crack at their delectable tendon, which gets you four freshly made tempura on rice (¥800), or a full set (¥2000). Daily 11am–9pm.

Tomoegata 巴潟 2-17-6 Ryōgoku, Sumida-ku 03 3632 5600, tomoegata.com; Ryōgoku Station. In the heart of sumo territory, and a grand place to head if you’re off to a tournament, this is a good place to sample chanko-nabe, the wrestlers’ protein-packed meat, seafood and vegetable stew. Their sets (¥860–4860) come in sizes named after sumo rankings – the yokozuna course would fill a whale, but even the cheapest one (weekdays only) is pretty hearty. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–11pm.

Toritsune Shizendo 鳥つね自然洞 5-5-2 Soto-Handa, Chiyoda-ku 03 5818 3566; Suehirochō Station. Simple place serving some of the best oyakodon (basically chicken and egg on rice) around, for the very fair price of ¥1100. Daily (except Sun) 1.30am–1.30pm & 5.30–10pm.

CAFÉS

Gundam Café ガンダムカフェー 1-1 Kanda-Hanaokachō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3251 0078, g-cafe.jp; Akihabara Station. In the suitably sci-fi interior of this café you can experience what a pilot from the incredibly popular anime series Mobile Suit Gundam would eat – or at least our terrestrial equivalent. Café time and bar time (from 5pm) have different menus. Coffee from ¥400. Mon–Fri 10am–10pm, Sat 8.30am–11pm, Sun 8.30am–9.20pm.

Imasa 井政 2-16-9 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku 03 3258 0059; Ochanomizu Station. This café is something of a treat: essentially forming part of the Kanda Myojin complex, it’s set in a wooden building dating from the 1920s, fringed with gardens and boasting a mix of traditional and modern fittings. The coffees and teas (from ¥600) are simple, and there’s not usually any milk to go with, though this place is still worth a visit. Mon–Fri 11am–4.30pm.

Maidreamin メイドリーミング 2F 1-8-10 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku 03 6252 3263, maidreamin.com; Akihabara Station. The spangly, anime-like Akiba branch of the Maidreamin maid café chain draws a small stream of foreigners thanks to English-speaking staff – they’ll let you know exactly which cute poses to make, which cute sounds to mimic and so on. It’s all rather fun, and charged at ¥500 per person per hour, with an order from the menu mandatory: drinks cost ¥600–1000, with meals a little more expensive. Each of the seven levels of this building also host maid cafés, and there’s another good branch in Shibuya. Daily 10am–11pm.

Mai:lish マイリシ 2F FH Kowa Square, 3-6-2 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku 03 5289 7310, mailish.jp; Suehirochō Station. Akiba’s famed maid cafés come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and styles; this is one of the originals, a relaxed venue in which costumed waitresses pander to their customers’ every whim. One order from the menu (from ¥600) will get you a 90min stay. Daily 11am–10pm.

UENO AND AROUND MAP

RESTAURANTS

Musashino 武蔵野 2F 2-8-1 Ueno, Taitō-ku 03 3831 1672; Ueno-Hirokōji Station. One of Ueno’s few remaining old-style restaurants serving tonkatsu, for which the area was once famed; they have, however, recently moved up a floor to a less visually appealing space. The tonkatsu come in big, thick, melt-in-the-mouth slabs; choose between standard rōsu (fatty belly meat) and the leaner hire (loin fillet), both costing ¥1000 including soup, rice and pickles. Daily 11.30am–9pm.

Sasa-no-yuki 笹乃雪 2-15-10 Negishi, Taitō-ku 03 3873 1145, sasanoyuki.com; Uguisudani Station. Three centuries ago, the chef here was said to make tofu like “snow lying on bamboo leaves”, and both the name and the quality have survived. Calm prevails over the tatami mats as you feast on delicately flavoured silk-strained tofu. Prices are reasonable, with most tofu plates priced at around ¥750, and full courses starting at ¥5000 (or ¥2200 for lunch). Tues–Sun 11.30am–9pm.

MAIDS, BUTLERS AND CATS: TOKYO’S QUIRKY CAFÉS

Japan is famed for appropriating Western cultural standards, and Tokyo’s various quirky takes on the humble café are all worth sampling – some would say that you haven’t really visited Tokyo if you haven’t tried at least one.

MAID AND BUTLER CAFÉS

The weird and wonderful maid cafés range in style from seedy to sci-fi via the unashamedly kitsch. Most are clustered among the electronics outlets to the west of Akihabara Station; head there after sunset and you’ll see lines of girls clamouring for custom. The deal is usually the same: costumed girls (and sometimes guys) serve up food and drink in an excruciatingly “cute” manner, their voices screeching a full two octaves above their natural pitch. There’s usually an hourly fee, and you’re also expected to order some food or drink from the menu. Recommended places to try include Mai:lish, and the Maidreamin branches in Akihabara and Shibuya.

The success of maid cafés spawned a male equivalent: the equally interesting butler cafés, where handsome, dressed-up young chaps (often Westerners) serve coffee, cake and wine to an exclusively female clientele. Though the format is essentially the same as that for the maid café, butler cafés tend to be fancier and are often rather more expensive. A good one to try is Swallowtail Café in Ikebukuro.

ANIMAL CAFÉS

The current hit formula in Tokyo’s polymorphous kissaten culture is the animal café. The craze started relatively tamely with cat cafés; offering quality time with pedigree cats, these cafés have long been popular with young women and dating couples, and the concept has since been extended to China, South Korea and even Europe. In recent years, cafés have popped up offering experiences with other animals – rabbits, hedgehogs, snakes, owls and even penguins. However, some establishments are clearly putting profit over animal welfare. Recommended establishments listed in this guide include the Calico and Nekorobi cat cafés, and Tokyo Snake Center, all of which treat their animals well. If you are visiting an animal café, things to bear in mind are whether or not the animals are kept in cages, if they are allowed “off-time” away from visitors, and whether they have enough space to wander.

ASAKUSA MAP

RESTAURANTS

320 Ramen ３２０ラーメン 2-15-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; Asakusa Station. Don’t expect any culinary fireworks at this spit-and-sawdust ramen bar, but the bowls – at just ¥320 – are excellent backpacker fare, and they don’t taste too bad at all. Daily (except Sat) 10am–7.30pm.

Bon 梵 1-2-11 Ryusen, Taitō-ku 03 3872 0375, fuchabon.co.jp; Iriya Station. A rare chance to sample fucha ryōri, a distinctive style of Zen Buddhist cuisine in which each of the ornately presented vegetable dishes is traditionally served from one large bowl, and the meal begins and ends with tea. The setting, a charming old Japanese house, and the calm service, make it an experience not to be missed. Reservations essential, with courses starting at ¥5400. Mon & Tues, Thurs & Fri noon–1.30pm & 5–7pm, Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm.

Hatsuogawa 初小川 2-8-4 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku 03 3844 2723; Asakusa Station. Look for the profusion of potted plants outside this tiny, rustic eel restaurant. It’s a lovely place to experience one of Japan’s most delectable fish dishes (eel sets from ¥2900), but they often sell out or fill up long before closing time – arrive early. Mon–Sat noon–1.30pm & 5–7.30pm, Sun 5–7.30pm.

La Sora Seed ラソラシド 31F Solamachi, 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku 03 5414 0581, kurkku.jp; Oshiage Station. Ecologically sound operation boasting one of the best possible views of the huge Skytree tower. It leans on European flavours, including great meatballs made with organic pork. Lunch sets go from ¥3100, dinner for almost three times that. Daily 11am–4pm & 6–11pm.

Maguro Bito まぐろ人 1-21-8 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3844 8736, magurobito.com; Asakusa Station. Fuji TV viewers once voted this the top kaiten-zushiya in Japan, and it’s easy to see why: the quality of fish and other ingredients is excellent, the turnover fast and the decor on the ritzy side. Expect a queue (but it moves fast). Electronically price-coded plates range from ¥170 to ¥530. Mon–Fri 11.30am–9.30pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm.

Nakae 中江 1-9-2 Nihonzutsumi, Taitō-ku 03 3872 5398, sakuranabe.com; Minowa Station. This venerable restaurant specializes in dishes made with horse meat, including sukiyaki (hotpot). The interior, decorated with beautiful ink paintings of horses, looks pretty much like it did a century ago when the whole area was a thriving red-light district. Their famous hotpots start at ¥3000, but at least consider splashing out ¥8000 on the full meal. Tues–Fri 5–10pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–9pm.

Sometarō 染太郎 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3844 9502; Tawaramachi Station. This rambling, wooden restaurant specializing in okonomiyaki, but also offers some quirky house creations such as osomeyaki (a variation of okonomiyaki, made with Worcester sauce), all costing ¥550–1380. There are English instructions on the menu, and staff are pleased to help out with your on-the-table creations. Daily noon–10.30pm.

CAFÉ

Gallery éf ガラリーエフ 2-19-18 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku 03 3841 0442, gallery-ef.com; Asakusa Station. The kura (traditional storehouse) at the back of this appealing café provides an intimate venue for an eclectic mix of concerts, performance art, and exhibitions that cover most of the space – the rest is taken up by the café’s collection of retro goods. Drinks, meals (mostly Western-style, like chilli beans and spaghetti), and desserts are served using vintage tableware, and they carry a few import beers as well. Choose from four different types of blended coffee (¥590), or plump for a tasty fruit juice (¥660). Daily (except Tues): café and gallery 11am–7pm; bar 6pm–midnight.

BAYSIDE TOKYO MAP

RESTAURANTS

Kondō 近どう 3-12-10 Tsukushima, Chūō-ku 03 3533 4555; Tsukishima Station. This is the best monjayaki (like a runny okonomiyaki) restaurant in a part of town that’s absolutely full of them, striking just the right note – classic in style, but not falling to bits. They have a wide range of dishes (¥700–1600), of which 14 are explained on their English menu; options for the mix include mentaiko (spicy roe), tuna-corn-cheese, curry, or chicken and plum paste. Mon–Fri 5–10pm, Sat & Sun noon–10pm.

Ramen Kokugikan ラーメン国技館 5F Aqua City, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku 03 3599 4700; Odaiba Kaihin-kōen monorail. Six top ramen chefs from around Japan square off against each other in this section of Aqua City’s restaurant floor. A bowl will cost you from ¥800; the Hakata variety, from Fukuoka, is well worth trying, as is the tsukemen wing. Daily 11am–11pm.

Sushi-bun 鮨文 6-5 Toyosu, Koto-ku 03 3541 3860; Shijō-mae monorail Station. One of the most gaijin-friendly options among the rows of sushi stalls within the new Toyosu fish market. Sets go from ¥3550, though you won’t regret spending ¥1200 more for their top-quality ten-piece selection, including creamy uni (sea urchin). Daily (except Sun) 6.30am–2pm.

Sushi-zanmai Honten すしざんまい本店 4-11-9 Tsukiji Chūō-ku 03 3541 1117; Tsukiji Station. Still going despite the relocation of the massive fish market it used to sit alongside, this pleasantly noisy place is the main, and best, branch of a popular chain of sushi restaurants run by Kimura Kiyoshi, the self-proclaimed “King of Tuna”. Filling sushi sets go from ¥1620. Daily 24hr.

AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI MAP

RESTAURANTS

Felafel Brothers 5-1-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 6459 2844; Roppongi Station. Vegan snack-shack, with sandwiches and salad bowls going from ¥1000; as you may have inferred from the name, felafel is a popular (and wise) choice, and there’s Israeli beer and wine to wash it down with. There are only four seats inside, so most choose to take away; they’ve opened up a bigger, but less convenient, place near Ebisu. Daily (except Sun) 11am–10pm.

DINING ON THE WATER

Lunch and dinner cruises on yakatabune, low-slung traditional boats lit up with paper lanterns, are a charming Tokyo eating institution, dating back to the Edo period. The boats accommodate anything from sixteen to a hundred people on trips along the Sumida-gawa and out on Tokyo Bay. For a bar-like alternative, see Jicoo.

Amisei あみ清 3 3844 1869, amisei.com; map. This boat sets off from the southwest side of Azumabashi bridge, Asakusa. Two-hour evening cruises cost ¥8640, including all the tempura you can eat. More lavish menus can be ordered and, naturally, prices skyrocket for cruises on the night when Asakusa holds its annual fireworks extravaganza in July.

Funasei 船清 03 5479 2731, funasei.com; map. Bay cruises, lasting two and a half hours, run out of Shinagawa and offer a choice of Japanese- and Western-style menus, with unlimited bar access, for around ¥10,800 per person.

Gonpachi 権八 1-13-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku 03 5771 0170, gonpachi.jp; Roppongi Station. A faux-Edo-period storehouse is home to this atmospheric Japanese restaurant. Take your pick between reasonably priced soba (from ¥800) and grilled items (¥270–500) on the ground and second floors, or sushi on the third floor – a full meal will set you back around ¥3000. There’s a wonderful samurai drama atmosphere, and it’s easy to see how the place inspired the climactic scenes of Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill Vol. 1. Daily 11.30am–3.30am.

Kurosawa 黒澤 2-7-9 Nagatachō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3580 9638, 9638.net/nagata; Tameike-sannō Station. The design of this atmospheric restaurant was inspired by the sets from Akira Kurosawa’s movies Yojimbo and Red Beard, and a meal here is a superb experience. Given the quality, the prices in the downstairs soba section(bowls from under ¥800) are a real steal; the refined upstairs rooms are for grander set meals only (from ¥5000). Mon–Fri 11.30am–3pm & 5–10pm, Sat noon–9pm.

Nobu Tokyo 東京 Toranomon Towers Office, 4-1-28 Toranomon, Minato-ku 03 5733 0070, noburestaurants.com; Kamiyachō Station. There’s a dramatic Japanese-style design for Nobu Matsuhisa’s Tokyo operation, where you can sample the famous black-cod dinner (Robert de Niro’s favourite) for around ¥5550. For something a bit different, try tiradito, their South American twist on sashimi. Mon–Fri 11.30am–2pm & 6–10.30pm, Sat & Sun 6–10.30pm.

Nodaiwa 野田岩 1-5-4 Higashi-Azabu, Minato-ku 03 3583 7852, nodaiwa.co.jp; Kamiyachō Station. Kimono-clad waitresses shuffle around this 160-year-old kura (storehouse), converted into one of Tokyo’s best eel restaurants; a set meal will cost around ¥5000. The private rooms upstairs can only be booked by parties of four or more; if it’s busy, they may guide you to the annexe around the corner, which has an almost identical interior. Mon–Sat 11am–1.30pm & 5–8pm.

Sukiyabashi Jiro すきやばし次郎 3F Ark Mori Building, 6-12-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 5413 6626, sushi-jiro.jp; Roppongi Station. You may have heard of Jiro Dreams of Sushi, but people also dream about getting a seat at Jiro’s restaurant; for the next best thing, head to this offshoot, stewarded by the famed chef’s son. Although it’s not cheap by any means (¥22,000 for lunch, ¥30,000 for dinner), those who can afford it will find the quality beyond reproach. Daily (except Wed) 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm.

Tōfuya-Ukai とうふ屋うかい 4-4-13 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku 03 3436 1028, ukai.co.jp; Akabanebashi Station. At the foot of Tokyo Tower, this stunning re-creation of an Edo-era mansion, incorporating huge beams from an old sake brewery, serves unforgettable tofu-based kaiseki-style cuisine. Book well ahead, especially for dinner (at least a month in advance). Set meals only, with lunch from ¥5940 on weekdays, and dinner from ¥10,800. Daily 11am–10pm.

CAFÉ

Bluebottle Coffee ブルーボトルコーヒー 7-7-7 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 6804 6603; Roppongi Station. Sleek, open, pine-lined space serving good coffee in the ¥500 region (or a little more for the day’s single-origin choice), from a whacking great espresso machine with looks like it may have been used on the Starship Enterprise. Daily 8am–8pm.

EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH MAP

RESTAURANTS

Chano-ma チャノマ 6F Nakameguro Kangyō Building, 1-22-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku 03 3792 9898; Nakameguro Station. Overlooking the river in swanky Nakameguro, this casual eatery serves some very tasty rustic-style Japanese fusion dishes (lunch sets from ¥1000), as well as a great selection of teas and flavoured lattes. Mon–Thurs & Sun noon–2am, Fri & Sat noon–4am.

Ebisu Yokochō 千恵比寿横丁 Ebisu, Minato-ku; Ebisu Station. Not a restaurant, but a whole clutch of them, crammed into a hugely atmospheric covered arcade east of Ebisu station. Come in the evening and take your pick – there’s a curry stand, several noodle joints, places specializing in seafood, and even a miniature karaoke bar. In addition, the venues and the tables in them are arranged in a way that lends itself to mingling. Daily 5pm–late.

Futatsume ふたつめ 3-9-5 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku 03 3712 2022; Nakameguro Station. Grand little kushiage (deep-fried sticks) place, selling skewered snacks from just ¥100; choices include breaded camembert, shiitake and salmon, and they’re all best washed down with a gigantic highball (¥980). Mon–Sat 6pm–3am.

Iroha Sushi いろは寿司 1-5-13 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku 03 5722 3560, irohasushi.com; Nakameguro Station. Relaxed sushi den that’s the diametric opposite of most diners in this fancy part of town – you won’t see any hipsters or bohos here, just salary-folk and older locals. Every single piece is freshly made, yet the place remains cheaper than any kaiten-zushiya, especially on weekday lunchtimes, when huge sets go from just ¥680; the largest is just ¥1050, and will fill almost any belly. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10.30pm.

Ivy Place アイヴィプレイス 16-15 Sarugakuchō, Shibuya-ku 03 6415 3232, tysons.jp; Daikanyama Station. This large, attractive venue is so Daikanyama – always full at brunchtime with shopping-bag-toting folk, tucking into buttermilk pancakes (¥1300), eggs with chorizo and potatoes (¥1400) and more. Good coffee, too. Daily 7am–11pm.

TOKYO TEAHOUSES

Tokyo’s teahouses are becoming more popular as the health benefits of tea are promoted. There are also teahouses with pretty settings in Hama Rikyū Onshi Teien, Shinjuku Gyoen and Happōen.

Aoyama Flower Market 青山フラワーマーケット B1 5-1-2 Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 3400 0887, afm-teahouse.com; Omotesandō Station; map. Yes, it’s a flower shop – but one whose heady aromas also permeate a fantastic tea-space, tucked away through a door at the back. They’ve a good range of herbal and green-tea concoctions on offer in the ¥750 range, though prepare for a queue on weekends. Daily 11am–8pm.

Cha Ginza 茶銀座 5-5-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 1211; Ginza Station; map. This teahouse, run by a tea wholesaler, offers a modern take on the business of sipping sencha. Iron walls add a contemporary touch, and the rooftop area, where they serve matcha, is the place to hang out with those Tokyo ladies who make shopping a career. ¥700 gets you three small (and different) cups of the refreshing green stuff, plus a traditional sweet. Daily (except Mon) 11am–6pm.

Torayaとらや 4-9-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 3408 4121; Akasaka-mitsuke Station; map. This confectionery chain has branches all over town, but the third floor of their extremely beautiful main store is also a great place for tea (from ¥750) and can usually be served with seasonal mochi (traditional rice cakes). Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–6pm.

Umezono 梅園 1-31-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3841 7580; Asakusa Station; map. Umezono is a traditional tearoom located in the heart of Asakusa, and is famous for its awa-zenzai, millet flour cakes wrapped in sweet azuki bean paste, served with seeds of Japanese basil for contrast. Alternatively, choose a bowl of anmitsu from the window display: a colourful concoction of agar jelly, azuki beans and sticky rice topped with a variety of fruits (and, if you’re really hungry, whipped cream or ice cream; from ¥800). Daily (except Wed) 10am–8pm.

Jasmine 5-22-3 Hiro-o, Shibuya-ku 03 5421 8525, jasmine310.com; Hiro-o Station. Michelin-recommended restaurants usually have mammoth queues at mealtimes, but you often don’t have to wait at all at this pretty Chinese restaurant. It’s cheap, too – just¥1100 for their lunch special, a delicate cold chicken dish, served in sesame-topped soy; for an extra ¥250 you can have a mini spicy mabo tofu. You’ll be spending a lot more at dinnertime; again, it’s worth the price. Daily 11.30am–3pm & 6–11pm.

Kosyu Ichiba 広州市場 1-29-12 Aobadai, Meguro-ku 03 3760 7147; Nakameguro Station. This chain sells fantastic tantan-men (ramen with a spicy, oily sauce and minced pork; ¥920), and their delectable gyōza (¥330) aren’t far off. The attractive Nakameguro branch basically does the simple things really, really well, and every customer walks out rubbing their belly. Daily 11am–2am.

HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA MAP AND THIS MAP

RESTAURANTS

Bepokah ベポカ 2-17-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 6804 1377, bepocah.com; Meiji-jingūmae Station. Given their mutual adoration of raw fish, you’d think that Peruvian cuisine would have a bigger impact in Japan. This is one of the only places in Tokyo in which you’ll find quality ceviche (dishes from ¥1800), as well as Andean staples such as lomo saltado (stir-fried beef on rice; ¥2600) and ají de gallina (chicken in an almost curry-like yellow cream; ¥1800). Pricey, but just about worth it. Mon–Fri 6pm–1am, Sat 5pm–midnight.

Commune 2nd コミューン２nd 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; commune2nd.com; Omotesandō Station. This open-air courtyard space is almost like a boho slice of London, San Francisco or Melbourne – a clutch of small snack shacks selling all sorts, from gourmet hot dogs and burgers to Thai food and ramen. It’s also a good drinking spot. Daily 11am–10pm; usually closed Dec–Feb.

Florilège 2-5-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 6440 0878, aoyama-florilege.jp; Gaiemmae Station. Not just any old French restaurant – chef Hiroyasu Kawate is something of a culinary superstar in Tokyo, and his fusion of Japanese and French tastes is something to behold, if you can afford it (¥6500 for a six-course lunch, ¥12,500 for an 11-course dinner). At these prices you’d expect a fancy settting too, and this restaurant certainly doesn’t disappoint, with its rich carpets, dim lighting and flashes of greenery. Daily (except Wed) 12pm–1.30pm & 6.30–8pm.

Ganso Kujiraya 元祖くじら屋 2-9-22 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3461 9145, www.kujiraya.co.jp; Shibuya Station. Like it or not, the Japanese have eaten whale meat for centuries, and this smart, surprisingly cheap venue is a good option if you’d like to see – and taste – what the fuss is about; if you’re curious, it tastes a bit like liver. You may not be able to make head or tail of the menu (though it does feature pictures of the latter), so take a Japanese-speaker along if possible; most dishes are ¥780–980, but it’s best visited at lunch when you’ll get a hearty set from ¥1000. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm & 5–10.30pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–11.30pm.

Harajuku Gyōzaro 原宿餃子楼 6-2-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3406 4743; Meiji-jingūmae Station. Though there are few Japanese customers (or, indeed, kitchen staff) at this atmospheric dumpling spot, the fare on offer is cheap and tasty. It’s just over ¥300 for a round of succulent gyōza; your choices are fried or boiled, and with or without garlic, and you can chase them down with draught beer. Mon–Sat 11.30am–4am, Sun 11.30am–11pm.

Los Barbados ロスバルバドス 41-26 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku 03 3496 7157; Shibuya Station. This little izakaya is, well, a little different from the norm. Under a large map of the Congo, the Africa-phile owner whips up great food from across the African continent, including Senegambian rice-and-meat staples such as maafe and yassa; lunch meals cost under ¥1000, and there are always vegan options. Wash it all down with some Kenya Cane. Daily (except Sun) noon–3pm & 6–11pm.

Maisen まい泉 4-8-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3470 0071, mai-sen.com; Omotesandō Station. Located in an old bathhouse, this long-running tonkatsu restaurant serves up superb set meals from just ¥1580; prices dip under ¥1000 for lunch, though you’ll probably have to queue for a while. Daily 11am–10pm.

Out 2-7-14 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, out.restaurant; Shibuya Station. A small and uncommonly focused restaurant, where there’s only one dish on the menu, only one wine served alongside, and only Led Zepellin on the sound system. The dish in question is truffle pasta (¥4000 with wine, ¥2900 without), which is quite superb; the truffles and paired wines vary with the season. Tues–Sat 6pm–late; Sun 11am–2.30pm & 6pm–late.

Ramen Nagi ラーメン凪 1-3-1 Higashi, Shibuya-ku 03 3499 0390, n-nagi.com; Shibuya Station. At this busy ramen joint, the waiter will give you a choice of how soft or hard you’d like your noodles cooked. There are a few interesting selections available on the fun cross-section menu, including the “Midorio”, made with basil and cheese – weird, but it works. More regular varieties are served in a rich broth, topped with delicious pork slices and a heap of chopped spring onions – a bargain at ¥880 a bowl. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–10pm.

Sakuratei さくら亭 3-20-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3479 0039, sakuratei.co.jp/en; Meiji-jingūmae Station. Funky, cook-your-own okonomiyaki, monjayaki and yakisoba joint behind the weird and wonderful Design Festa gallery. Dishes start at ¥950, and feature some quirky options such as curry, Okinawan or pizza-style ingredients. A good drinks selection means it’s a fun place at night. Daily 11am–11pm.

Uobei 魚べい 2-29-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3462 0241; Shibuya Station. Searingly bright restaurant in which your sushi is ordered by touch screen, then delivered by rail on automated plates – the only humans you see are those who point you to your table and take your cash. Gimmicky, yes, but it’s a lot of fun – not to mention cheap, since sushi plates go from ¥108. Daily 11am–midnight.

CAFÉS

Crisscross クリスクロス 5-7-28 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 6434 1266; Omotesandō Station. One of Aoyama’s “it” places, selling good coffee, and dessert dishes such as buttermilk pancakes (both from ¥900). For cheaper eats, pick up something from the adjoining Breadworks bakery. Daily 8am–10pm.

Koffee Mameya コーヒーまめや 4-15-3 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 5413 9422, koffee-mameya.com; Omotesandō Station. Something different in this café-infested area, and something like a laboratory for coffee. The guys here take their work very seriously, extolling the virtues of the many options – arrayed like lab specimens behind the counter – as they do their thing. Prices are ¥550 and up, and the end results are wonderful, though sadly there’s nowhere to sit. Daily 10am–6am.

La Fée Délice ラフェデリース 5-11-13 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 5766 4084, lafeedelice.com; Meiji-jingūmae Station. The best of Harajuku’s many crêperies – some chefs here have actually trained in France, and the fact that people are here for the food and atmosphere, rather than simple photogenic potential, makes for shorter queues. Sweet and savoury crêpes go for ¥1080 and up. Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun 11am–10pm.

Lion ライオン 2-19-13 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3461 6858; Shibuya Station. Not the place for animated conversations, this Addams Family-style institution, set amid the love hotels of Dōgenzaka, is where businessmen bunking off work come to appreciate classical music with their coffee (¥550 and up). Seats are arranged to face a pair of enormous speakers. Daily 11am–10.30pm.

L’Occitane 2F Likes Bldg, 2-3-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 5428 1564; Shibuya Station. This café above the eponymous cosmetics store has one huge draw – it’s a prime viewing spot for Shibuya crossing. Thankfully, the coffee’s fine; better, at least, than at the crammed Starbucks on the other side of the crossing. Daily 10am–9pm.

Maidreamin メイドリーミング B1 30-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku 03 6427 8938, maidreamin.com; Shibuya Station. This sci-fi-style maid café is an all-out cuteness assault, its glammed-up staff sporting inch-long fake eyelashes and umpteen petticoat layers. The food follows suit – think curry served in heart-shaped rice mounds and burgers cut up to look like teddy bears – and there’s also a range of soft and alcoholic drinks. Entry ¥500 per hour, plus you have to make one order from the menu. Mon–Fri 1–11pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–11pm.

Tokyo Snake Center 東京スネークセンター 8F Sanpo-Sogo Building, 6-5-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 6427 9912, snakecenter.jp; Meiji-jingūmae Station. One of the better “weird-animal” cafés in Tokyo, and decently priced at ¥1000 entry, including a drink; it’s ¥540 more to pet a couple of small snakes. Daily (except Tues) 11am–8pm.

SHINJUKU AND THE WEST MAP

RESTAURANTS

Ain Soph Journey 3-8-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 5925; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. Popular, presentable vegan restaurant doling out salads, veggie soups, green curry and the like, all costing ¥1200 or so for lunch, and a bit more at dinnertime. They also make delectable vegan pancakes (¥1620). Daily 11.30am–5pm & 6–10pm.

Konjiki Hototogisu 金色不如帰 2-4-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 3373 4508; Shinjuku-gyoemmae Station. There’s always a long queue outside this esteeemed noodle restaurant, but it says something that people are prepared to wait – sometimes for well over an hour – to nab one of the eleven seats. Two types of ramen soba are available, as well as a tsukesoba (dry noodles with dipping stock), and all cost under ¥1000, unless you go for some of the highly tempting add-ons. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm & 6.30–10pm.

New York Grill 52F Park Hyatt Tower, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 5323 3458, tokyo.park.hyatt.jp; Tochōmae Station. Sitting pretty on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt, the New York Grill offers great views and Stateside-sized portions – after the buffet lunch (¥6800, including taxes and service charge) you won’t need to eat much else all day. Bookings essential. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–10.30pm.

Omoide Yokochō 思い出横丁 1-2-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; Shinjuku Station. It’s almost pointless recommending specific establishments on this hugely atmospheric yokochō alle – just stroll along a few times, until you’ve spied both the food you desire, and a free seat. Most places daily 4pm–midnight.

Tsunahachi つな八 3-31-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 3352 1012, tunahachi.co.jp; Shinjuku Station. This famous tempura restaurant almost always has a queue outside, though you’re likely to get seated quickly if you settle for the upstairs rooms away from the frying action. Everything is freshly made, and the bowls, cups and plates are all little works of art. Even the smallest lunch set (just over ¥1500, including soup, rice and pickles) will fill you up, but somewhat unfairly, it’s not listed on the English menu; dinner sets will cost around double. Daily 11am–10pm.

Udon Shin うどん 慎 2-20-16 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku 03 6276 7816; Shinjuku Station. It’s worth braving the Michelin-issue queues at this small, venerable udon joint – it’ll give you plenty of time to peruse the various options on their menu (most bowls ¥900–1300), which include some featuring flying-fish tempura, others with yuzu sauce, and even a carbonara-like choice with parmesan cheese and bacon tempura. Sun–Thu 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–midnight.

CAFÉS

Calico きゃりこ 6F, 1-16-2 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku, 03 6457 6387, catcafe.jp; Shinjuku Station. A great place to experience the cat café phenomenon; ¥600 gets you thirty minutes of quality time with some fifty gorgeous kitties. With instructions and menu in English, it’s very foreigner friendly, and offers inexpensive drinks and food. No children under 12 are allowed. Daily 11am–10pm.

Tajimaya 但馬屋 Omoide Yokochō, Shinjuku-ku 03 3342 0881; Shinjuku Station. Surprisingly genteel for this area of dining and drinking alleys, this elegant café serves quality drinks and cakes on a pretty assortment of china. Most coffees ¥720. Daily 10am–10.30pm.

IKEBUKURO AND THE NORTH MAP

RESTAURANTS

Akiyoshi 秋吉 3-30-4 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku 03 3982 0601, akiyoshi.co.jp; Ikebukuro Station. Unusually large yakitori bar with a garrulous atmosphere and a helpful picture menu. Most deep-fried comestibles are around ¥400 per plate, and ther’s plenty of booze on offer. Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight, Sun 5pm–11pm.

Isomaru Suisan 磯丸水産 3-25-10 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku 03 5953 2585; Ikebukuro Station. This seafood izakaya is heaving all evening, every evening – in fact, it’s so popular that it never shuts. There’s no English menu, but there are plenty of pictures and live sea creatures to point at – try their colossal sazae (sea snails), or the splendid-value eel on rice (unadon; ¥980). Other branches around the city. Daily 24hr.

Le Bretagne 4-2 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku 03 3235 3500, le-bretagne.com; Iidabashi Station. Attractive French-run restaurant down a little side-street in Kagurazaka, offering authentic crêpes (both sweet and savoury) from ¥780 and buckwheat galettes from ¥1180, as well as home-made Breton-style cider and good coffee. Tues–Sat 11.30am–10.30pm, Sun 11.30am–10pm.

Saemaeul Sikdang セマウル食堂 1-1-4 Hyakuninchō, Shinjuku-ku 03 6205 6226; Shin-Ōkubo Station. This outpost of an authentic Korean chain is by far the best yakiniku restaurant in Koreatown. Order some yeoltan bulgogi (like the meat from shabu-shabu without the soup, mixed with spicy paste; ¥950 per portion), and a boiling doenjang jjigae (a spicier, chunkier miso soup served with rice; ¥840 per portion), and watch as the ethnic-Korean staff nonchalantly blanket the rest of your table with free side-dishes. To make things feel even more like Seoul, order a bottle of flavoured soju to wash everything down with. Daily 11.30am–2am.

CAFÉS

Canal Café カナルカフェー 1-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku 03 3260 8068, canalcafe.jp; Iidabashi Station. This is a surprisingly tranquil and appealing waterside spot, particularly romantic at night when the old clapperboard boathouses sparkle with fairy lights, or during the blossom-heavy sakura season. The café-restaurant has decent-value pasta and pizza meals (¥900–1400); for coffee alone, you can head to the outdoor section, though annoyingly they only serve in paper cups. Tues–Fri 11.30am–11pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–9.30pm.

Nekorobi ねころび 3F Tact TO Bldg, 1-28-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku 03 6228 0646, nekorobi.jp; Ikebukuro Station. This cat café has a minimum ¥1100 cover charge for the first hour (¥1300 on weekends), which gets you unlimited drinks, though most go straight for the cat toys, and a play with the felines. Daily 11am–10pm.

Swallowtail Café スワロウテイル B1F 3-12-12 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku butlers-cafe.jp; Ikebukuro Station. A “butler café” where young guys dressed like Jeeves are the solicitous waiters in a room hung with chandeliers and antique-style furniture. Booking through the (mostly Japanese) website is essential. Expect to spend at least ¥2500 per head. Daily 10.30am–9pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Tokyo’s nightlife options run the gamut from izakaya to live music venues (known as “live houses”). The distinction between restaurants, bars and clubs in the city’s sakariba (“lively places”), such as Ginza, Shibuya or Shinjuku, is hazy, with many places offering a range of entertainment depending on the evening or customers’ spirits.

BARS AND IZAKAYA

Tokyo is a drinkers’ paradise with a vast range of venues serving practically any brand of booze from around the world as well as local tipples such as sake, shōchū (a vodka-like spirit) and award-winning Japanese whisky. Roppongi easily has Tokyo’s greatest concentration of foreigner-friendly gaijin bars but note that many are closed on Sunday. If there’s live music anywhere you’ll often pay for it through higher drinks prices or a cover charge. Some regular bars also have cover charges and izakaya (bars that serve food) almost always do, though you’ll usually get a small snack served with your first drink. There’s plenty of choice among those that don’t, though, so always check the deal before buying your drink.

THE IMPERIAL PALACE AND AROUND MAP

Marunouchi House 丸の内ハウス 7F Shin-Marunouchi Bldg, 1-5-1 Maranouchi, Chiyoda-ku 03 5218 5100; Tokyo Station. The best thing about the open-plan space here, with its seven different restaurants and bars, is that you can take your drinks out on to the broad wraparound terrace for great views of Tokyo Station and towards the Imperial Palace. Raimuraitu is probably the best of the three bars; this one’s an enclosed space, with a distinct bubble-era feel, and cocktails for ¥800. Mon–Sat 11am–4am, Sun 11am–11pm.

Old Imperial Bar Imperial Hotel, 1-1-1 Uchisaiwaichō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3539 8088, www.imperialhotel.co.jp; Hibiya Station. All that remains in Tokyo of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Art Deco Imperial Hotel is this re-created bar. Try its signature Mount Fuji cocktail (¥1800), a wickedly sweet blend of gin, cream, egg white and sugar syrup with a cherry on top, which was invented here in 1924. While you sip it, ask to see the photo albums of how the hotel once looked. Smart attire recommended. Daily 11.30am–midnight.

TOKYO’S TOP PLACES TO DRINK

Best for cheapskates Coins Bar and Gas Panic

Best for Art Deco stylings Old Imperial Bar

Best for a sake education Bunka Hostel and Buri

Best for events Pink Cow

Best for microbrewed beer Nakameguro Taproom

Best for Japanese whisky Cask Strength

Best for weirdness value The Lockup

Best club Ageha

Best LGBTQ venue Aiiro Café

SUMMER BEER GARDENS

Helping to mitigate Tokyo’s sticky summers are the outdoor beer gardens that sprout around the city from late May through to early September, typically on the roofs of department stores such as Tobu in Ikebukuro, or in street-level gardens and plazas. One of the best beer gardens is Forest Beer Garden in Meiji-jingū’s Outer Garden, close to Shinanomachi Station. Rooftop bars are also very pleasing places to drink in warm months; Xex is a good option.

Shin Hi No Moto 新日の基 2-4-4 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3214 8021; Yūrakuchō or Hibiya stations. Known to all and sundry as “Andy’s”, this is a lively English-owned izakaya under the tracks just south of Yūrakuchō station. Prices are fair, but reservations are advisable. Daily (except Sun) 5pm–midnight.

GINZA AND AROUND MAP

300 Bar ３００円バー B1 Fazenda Building, 5-9-11 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3572 6300; Ginza Station. The bargain-basement face of Ginza is this unusually large standing-only bar, where all food and drinks are ¥300 (plus a little more, for tax): cheap by the standards of rural Japan, let alone Ginza. Can get pretty full and fun. Mon–Fri 5pm–2am, Sat & Sun 2pm–2am.

Dry Dock ドライドック 3-25-10 Shimbashi, Minato-ku 03 5777 4755; Shimbashi Station. Cosy craft-beer bar with a nautical theme nestling beneath the train tracks. Its no-smoking policy is a welcome change, and patrons often spill outside to enjoy the regularly changing menu of Japanese and overseas microbrews. No food served on Saturday. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat 5pm–10pm.

Lion ライオン 7-9-20 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 2590; Ginza Station. Opened in 1934, this flagship beer hall of the Sapporo chain is a rather baronial place, with dark tiles and mock wood panelling. As well as good draught beer (giant ones ¥1080), there are sausages, sauerkraut and other German snacks on offer alongside international pub grub. You’ll find other branches scattered around Tokyo, all using the same formula. Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun 11.30am–10.30pm.

AKIHABARA AND AROUND MAP

Hitachino Brewing Lab 常陸野ブルーイングラボ Maach-Ecute Building, 1-25-4 Kanda-Sudachō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3254 3434, hitachino.cc; Akihabara Station. Set under the train tracks, this is one of Tokyo’s most attractive microbreweries, serving Hitachino’s famous Nest ale and another eight varieties on tap (¥680 for a small one), as displayed in a beer-rainbow array of test tubes. Try a taster set for ¥980. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–9pm.

UENO AND AROUND MAP

Kadokura カドクラ 6-13-1 Ueno, Taitō-ku 03 3832 5335; Ueno Station. Bustling tachinomiya that usually gets boisterous even before office kicking-out time – a great place to make new friends over a freezing beer or highball (from ¥400). Daily 10am–11pm.

Warrior Celt ウオリアーケルト 3F Ito Building, 6-9-22 Ueno 03 3836 8588, warriorcelt.jp; Ueno Station. Occasionally wild bar whose regulars are led on by a veritable United Nations of bar staff. Key ingredients include a fine range of beers, good food, a nightly happy hour (5–7pm), live bands and, last but not least, “Ladies Night” on Thursdays (cocktails ¥500 for female customers). Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 5pm–5am.

ASAKUSA MAP

Bunka Hostel ブンカホステル 1-13-5 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 5806 3444, bunkahostel.jp; Asakusa Station. The lobby of this excellent hostel doubles as a bar, as stylish as any in the area – the wall of Bunka-labelled sake jars behind the bar is extremely photogenic. They’ve more than thirty varieties of sake on offer, with the type (dry, sweet, strong, etc) explained on the English-language menu – a perfect place in which to get acquainted with Japan’s most traditional drink. Daily (except Mon) 6pm–2am.

Campion Ale カンピオンエール 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 6231 6554, campionale.com; Tawaramachi Station. Brew-pubs are ten-a-penny in Tokyo these days, but this one is ideally located for the Asakusa backpacker and tourist crowds. British-owned, it serves suitably authentic ales (usually 15 on tap; ¥1000/pint, or ¥2800 for 2hr all-you-can-drink) and hearty pub dishes. Mon–Fri 5–11.30pm, Sat & Sun noon–11.30pm.

Kamiya 神谷 1-1-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3841 5400; Asakusa Station. Established in 1880, this was Tokyo’s first Western-style bar. It’s famous for its Denki Bran (“electric brandy” – a mix of gin, wine, Curaçao and brandy), invented in 1883. It’s a potent tipple (and just ¥270 a shot), though they also make a “weaker” version. It’s a restaurant of sorts, so choose the lively ground floor if you’re only after a drink; pay for your first round as you enter. Daily (except Tues) 11.30am–10pm.

BAYSIDE TOKYO MAP

Jicoo ジコ― 0120 049490, jicoofloatingbar.com; Hinode Station. This night-time persona of the futuristic ferry Himiko shuttles between Hinode, under the Rainbow Bridge, and Odaiba. To board costs ¥2600 (it takes half an hour from point to point, but you can stay on as long as you like), drinks run from ¥700 and there’s a DJ playing so you can take to the illuminated dancefloor and show off your best John Travolta moves. Daily 8am–11pm.

AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI MAP

BrewDog 5-3-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 6447 4160, brewdogbar.jp; Roppongi Station. Craft beer has undergone a second wave in Japan, and this is your best bet in the Roppongi area, with their own five brews – including the excellent Punk IPA – forming part of a boozy constellation of 20 beers on tap, plus 60 bottled varieties (from ¥700). Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat & Sun 3pm–midnight.

Cask Strength B1 3-9-11 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 6432 9772, cask-s.com; Roppongi Station. Attractive basement venue with one of Tokyo’s best selections of whisky, including some rare Japanese choices – those with a nose for Karuizawa or Yamazaki Single Malt will be in paradise. Daily 6pm–late.

Gen Yamamoto 元山本 1-6-4 Azabu-jūban, Minato-ku 03 6434 0652, genyamamoto.jp; Azabu-jūban Station. This is one of those small, secretive Tokyo bars which makes you wonder what goes on inside. Nothing seedy at all here, merely the creation of some of the best cocktails in the city, often made with fresh fruits and veggies sourced from across the land (and all by “feel”, rather than by measure). The results can be astonishingly good; if your wallet stretches far enough, consider going for the tasting sets of four to seven cocktails (¥4600–7900). Tues–Sat 3–11pm.

Pink Cow ピンクカーウ 2-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 6441 2998, thepinkcow.com; Tameike-sanno Station. There’s always something interesting going on – book readings, art classes, comedy improv nights – at this funky haven for local artists and writers. Has a good range of imported wines, and tasty Tex-Mex-style food. Daily 5pm–late.

EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH MAP

Baja バハ 1-16-12 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; Nakameguro Station. Seemingly decorated with everything the owner could find in his garage, this is one of the most entertaining bars in the Nakameguro area, with a good mix of foreigners and oddball Japanese. Drinks (including cocktails) cost ¥500; no tax, no table charge, cool music, and they also whip up yummy tacos – a real winner. Daily 5pm–5am.

Buri ぶり 1-14-1 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku 03 3496 7744; Ebisu Station. The fifty-strong range of chilled “one-cup sake” (a sealed glass, the size of a small can, ready filled with sake that you just pull the top off; ¥800) is the speciality at this trendy tachinomiya that’s one of the best in town. Good yakitori, too, and just wait until you see the toilet door. Daily 3pm–midnight.

Nakameguro Taproom 中目黒タップルーム GT Plaza C-Block 2F, 2-1-3 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku 03 5768 3025, bairdbeer.com; Nakameguro Station. This sleek real-ale nirvana serves beers (¥1000) from Baird Brewing Company, which started life out west in Numazu, on the Izu Peninsula. It also serves good food, and gets nice and busy on weekends. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat & Sun noon–midnight.

Xex 3F La Fuente, 11-1 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3476 065, xexgroup.jp; Daikanyama Station. This sleek rooftop bar is more like something you’d expect to find in Southeast Asia than Tokyo, with loungey seating dotted around a small pool. Pizza and sushi are on offer to augment the wine selection, and there’s occasional live jazz. Mon–Fri 5.30pm–4am, Sat & Sun 5.30pm–midnight.

HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA MAP, AND THIS MAP AND MAP

Coins Bar コインズバー B1 Noa Shibuya Building, 36-2 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3463 3039; Shibuya Station. This cool little basement bar offers most drinks for ¥320, making it a top choice if you’re on a budget. Music is usually hip-hop and r’n’b; they also bring in DJs most weekends, when there’s a ¥300 entry fee. Daily 4pm–12.30am, later at weekends.

Commune 2nd コミューン２nd 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, commune2nd.com; Omotesandō Station. Even better for drinking than it is for food, this outdoor court is a real hub of the area; most of the eateries sell drinks, including bottled local craft beer, but special mention should be made of Beer Brain, which doesn’t do food at all (¥600 for a small draught beer). Daily 11am–10pm; usually closed Dec–Feb.

Fight Club 428 ファイトクラブ４２８ 2-27-2 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3464 1799; Shibuya Station. Of Shibuya’s array of weird bars, this is one of the oddest – part of a fitness centre, the bar itself is set right next to a functional kickboxing cage. You can spar there yourself for ¥1000, though staff will only allow you to do this before your drink (most priced at ¥500). Mon–Thurs 6pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 6pm–5am, Sun noon–6pm.

Forest Beer Garden 森のビアガーデン 14-13 Kasumigaoka-machi, Minato-ku 03 5411 3715; Shinanomachi Station. This open-air beer garden, fronting the Meiji Kinenkan wedding hall, offers an eat-and-drink-all-you-can deal (tabe-nomi-hōdai) for men (¥4200) and women (¥3900). June–Sept only: Mon–Fri 5pm–10pm, Sat & Sun noon–10pm.

Goodbeer Faucets グッドビアフォーセツ 2F 1-29-1 Shoto, Shibuya-ku 03 3770 5544, goodbeerfaucets.jp; Shibuya Station. An excellent place for craft beer, selling over forty varieties on draught – some made by the Goodbeer brewery, others from across Japan and abroad. Large glasses of the good stuff cost ¥750–1300, with ¥200 off during happy hour (Mon–Thurs 5–8pm, Sun 1–7pm). Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight, Fri 5pm–3am, Sat & Sun 1pm–midnight.

KARAOKE BARS AND BOXES

You’ll find branches of the biggest karaoke chains – Karaoke-kan, Shidax and Big Echo – all over the city; the charge is typically ¥800 per person per hour, but some independent bars are cheaper, and you’ll almost always have a private room for your group, rather than a stage visible to all. There are always plenty of English-language songs to butcher, although it certainly helps to have a Japanese-speaker on hand to operate the karaoke system. Almost all venues serve alcohol, and many have drink-all-you-can (nomi-hōdai) specials; two hours of booze costs ¥3000 or so, plus the actual singing fee, and as a rule of thumb these deals usually work out cheaper if you’re planning to have four or more drinks. If you’re a first-timer, alcohol certainly helps to ease things along – those who are too shy to sing at the beginning of a session often end up hogging the microphone all night long.

Big Echo ビッグエコ 4-2-14 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3563 5100; Ginza Station. The most appealing branch of this major chain, with a few interesting themed rooms, including a Hello Kitty one. From ¥850 per person, with a minimum order of one drink. Daily 24hr.

Fiesta フィエスタ B1 6-2-35 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 5410 3008, fiesta-roppongi.com; Roppongi Station. A particularly good karaoke bar for newbie gaijin, offering thousands of songs in English, as well as several other languages – 26,000 hits, in all. ¥3500 including three drinks. Mon 7pm–midnight, Tues–Sat 7pm–5am.

Karaoke-kan カラオケ館 30-8 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku 03 3462 0785; Shibuya Station. Japan’s premier karaoke-box operator has branches liberally peppered across the capital. Rooms 601 and 602 in their Udagawachō branch were featured in the movie Lost in Translation. An hour of karaoke here costs from ¥900 per person, with a minimum order of one drink. Daily 24hr.

SHINJUKU AND THE WEST MAP

Champion チャンピオン Golden Gai, off Shiki-no-michi; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. At the western entrance to the Golden Gai stretch, this is the largest bar in the area. There’s no cover charge and most drinks are a bargain ¥500 – some even less. The catch? You have to endure tone-deaf patrons crooning karaoke for ¥100 a song, though after a few drinks, you’ll probably want to join in. Mon–Sat 6pm–6am.

The Lockup ザロックアップ 6/7F 1-16-3 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku 050 5305 7370; Shinjuku Station. It’s quite a trip merely walking into this house-of-horrors/prison themed bar. You’ll be handcuffed then led to a cell-like room where you can take your pick of weird cocktails: some arrive in test tubes; others have fake eyeballs inside. Periodically, the lights dim and staff try their best to terrify customers – brilliant fun, believe it or not. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat & Sun noon–midnight.

Shisha シーシャ 3-30-3 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku 03 3468 0601; Shimokitazawa Station. This tiny, loungey Shimokitazawa bar has perhaps the city’s cheapest shisha (from ¥800 per person), with a wide range of flavours to choose from. Drop by before 5pm and you can have a drink for an extra ¥100 – they’re usually affordable at ¥400, in any case. Daily 2pm–3am or so.

Square スクエーア 2F 3rd Street, Golden Gai; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. Cute, squashed little upper-floor bar in Golden Gai with cheery staff, cheery customers, decent drinks, and some dangerous-looking bras on the wall. Look out for the blue sign, which is, ironically, a circle. Cover charge ¥500. Mon–Sat 6pm–4am.

CLUBS

The Tokyo clubbing scene took a turn for the better in 2016, when a Footloose-like law forbidding dancing was finally repealed; the law, on the books since 1948, banned dancing in licensed premises after midnight (and in unlicensed premises at all), though in practice it was ignored for much of the twentieth century and only enforced occasionally since 2001, so not all that much has changed, especially in the main clubbing regions, Roppongi and Shibuya. Local DJs to look out for are Satoshi Tomiie, a house legend since the early ‘90s; Ken Ishii, well known for his techno sets; EDM attitude-monger Mitomi Tokoto; and quirky dubstep star Ajapai.

BAYSIDE TOKYO MAP

Ageha アゲハ Studio Coast, 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Kōtō-ku 03 5534 2525, ageha.com; Shin-Kiba Station. Ultra-cool club with an outdoor pool, body-trembling sound system and roster of high-profile events. It’s out by Tokyo Bay, but there’s a free shuttle bus here from Shibuya – check the website for details. Entry usually ¥3000. Usually Fri & Sat only.

AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI MAP.

Alife 1-7-2 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku 03 5785 2531, e-alife.net; Roppongi Station. This famed venue is one of Roppongi’s top spots. The second-floor lounge area is a good place to chill out after you’ve worked up a sweat to the house and techno being spun on the large dancefloor below. The cost of entry varies, but expect to pay more on weekends, even more after 11pm, and yet more again if you’re a guy. Events most nights except Sun.

LGBTQ FESTIVALS

Out-and-proud LGBTQ life in Tokyo is still somewhat coming out of its shell, and until recently there were no concrete annual events. However, there are now at least a couple of established fixtures on the calendar.

Rainbow Reel Late July rainbowreeltokyo.com. This annual film festival is now a permanent fixture of Tokyo’s LGBTQ calendar, showing films from around the world with English subtitles. A dance party typically rounds things off.

Tokyo Pride Parade Two days in May tokyorainbowpride.com. The city’s Pride Parade failed, for years, to establish itself as a regular “thing”. Now it seems to be here to stay, acting as the hub of a full-on Rainbow Week. However, the dates have been in flux – check the website for details.

Jumanji 55 ジュマンジ Marina Building 3-10-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 5410 5455, jumanji55.com; Roppongi Station. Aptly, considering its name, Jumanji can be a bit of a zoo: with the ¥1000 early-entry fee often including a couple of drinks (and sometimes, particularly for women, unlimited trips to the bar within a certain time window), there’s essentially no entry charge, meaning that on weekends there’s barely any wiggle-room. Great fun, though, and a hugely popular pick-up spot. Open most nights.

Muse ミューズ B1 4-1-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku 03 5467 1188, muse-web.com; Roppongi Station. The dancefloor at the back gets packed at weekends (there’s room for 1200 people, in theory), when they mostly play r’n’b. Lots of interesting little rooms to explore or canoodle in. Free entry weekdays, weekends ¥3000; women usually free. Closed Mon.

EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH MAP

Unit ユーニット Za-House Bldg, 1-34-17 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku 03 5459 8630, unit-tokyo.com; Ebisu or Daikanyama stations. DJ events and gigs from an interesting mix of artists and bands at this cool three-floor club, café and lounge bar. Events most nights.

HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA MAP, AND THIS MAP

Bonoboボノボ 2-23-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 6804 554, bonobo.jp; Meiji-jingūmae or Sendagaya stations. Walk past this place in the daytime, and you’ll usually think it’s nothing more than a wooden house. Come evening, however, it transforms into a highly intimate club, with a surprisingly good sound system; entry is usually just ¥1000–1500 plus a drink, and the DJs are often young up-and-comers. Events most nights.

Club Asiaクラブアシア 1-8 Maruyamachō, Shibuya-ku 03 5458 2551, clubasia.co.jp; Shibuya Station. A mainstay of the clubbing scene, with the emphasis on techno and trance nights, though they occasionally wander into other territories such as reggae and new wave. It’s in the heart of the Dōgenzaka love hotel district, and a popular place for one-off gigs by visiting DJs. Entry usually ¥3000 plus a drink. Open Fri & Sat, and sometimes Sun & Thurs.

Gas Panic ガスパニック B1 21-7 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku 03 3462 9099, gaspanic.co.jp; Shibuya Station. For many a year, the various Gas Panic clubs have, between them, constituted Tokyo’s main meat markets, with this one the biggie. Free entry, cheap drinks, and lots of youngsters (both Japanese and foreign) doing things their parents wouldn’t be proud of. Daily 6pm–late.

Harlem ハーレム 2-4 Maruyama-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3461 8806, www.harlem.co.jp; Shibuya Station. The city’s prime hip-hop venue for two full decades, keeping abreast of the genre’s undulations with a roster of young, energetic DJs. The crowd are almost all dressed to the nines – do likewise or you might as well not be here. Usually ¥3000 with a drink. Events most nights; sometimes closed Sun or Mon.

Womb ウーム 2-16 Maruyama-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 5459 0039, womb.co.jp; Shibuya Station. Mega-club with a spacious dancefloor and pleasant chill-out space. Top DJs often work the decks, but be warned that at big events it can get ridiculously crowded. Usually ¥3000 with a drink; discount before midnight. Events most nights.

SHINJUKU AND THE WEST MAP

Garam ガラム 7F Dai-Roku Polestar Bldg, 1-16-6 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku 03 3205 8668; Shinjuku Station. This tiny, Jamaican-style dancehall is very friendly, and the place to head if you’re into reggae. The cover charge is unusually reasonable and includes one drink. Entry ¥1000–1500. Daily 9pm–6am.

LGBTQ BARS MAP

With over 150 bars and clubs, Shinjuku-Nichōme is the most densely packed area of LGBTQ venues in Japan, but clubbing events are held around the city. Check websites for regular monthly standbys such as Shangri-la at Ageha, Goldfinger ( goldfingerparty.com) and Diamond Cutter ( diamondcutter.jp), all of which will have a cover charge of around ¥3000. The “Basics” section of this book has more general advice on Japan’s LGBTQ scene.

SHINJUKU AND THE WEST

Aiiro Café アイイロカフェ Tenka Building 7, 2-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 3358 3988, aliving.net; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. Many a night in Nichōme starts with a drink at this place, and quite a few finish here too. The bar itself is tiny, which is why scores of patrons hang out on the street corner outside, creating a block party atmosphere on weekends. Daily 6pm–4am, Sun until 1am.

Arty Farty アーティファーティ 2F Dai 33 Kyutei Building, 2-11-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 5362 9720, arty-farty.net; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. As the night draws on, this pumping bar with a small dancefloor gets packed with an up-for-fun crowd. Their annexe bar, within staggering distance, hits its stride later in the evening and draws a younger clientele. Daily 6pm–1am.

A-Un 阿吽 3F 2-14-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 070 6612 9014; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. A quirky bar in many ways: it’s lesbian-friendly but doesn’t mind fellas coming in; the sound system is unusually good; and you can bring your own booze for ¥500. Entry is usually ¥1000 including a free drink. The bar’s name represents the first and last letters of the Sanskrit alphabet. Daily 6pm–2am, Fri & Sat until 4am.

Campy! カンピー 2-13-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 6273 2154; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. This highly colourful venue is perhaps the tiniest of the area’s many minuscule gay bars, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in pizzaz – the drag queen staff sure help. One of the better local venues for straight folk. Daily 6pm–2am (Fri & Sat until 4am).

Goldfinger ゴールドフィンガー 2-12-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 6383 4649; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. This fun, female-only bar is famed for the regular wild parties it runs ( goldfingerparty.com), and though these are actually held elsewhere, the bar itself is a fun drinking hole, styled something like an old motel and presided over by glamourpuss DJs. Daily 6pm–2am, Fri & Sat until 4am.

Kinsmen キンズメン 2F 2-18-5 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 3354 4949; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station. Long-running and unpretentious bar – you’re as likely to be carousing with a mixed group of office workers here as with a drag queen. Check out their famous ikebana – traditional flower displays. Tues–Sun 8pm–1am, Fri & Sat until 3am.

LIVE MUSIC

Pop and rock acts usually play in “live houses”, many of which are little more than a pub with a small stage, although some clubs such as SuperDeluxe and Unit also have live music events. Jazz and blues are also incredibly popular in Tokyo, with scores of clubs across the city. There are several larger venues where top local and international acts do their thing, most notably the cavernous Tokyo Dome and the Budōkan. Tickets for concerts can be bought through ticket agencies.

ROCK AND POP

Billboard Live Tokyo ビルボードライブ東京 4F Tokyo Midtown 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 3405 1133, billboard-live.com; Roppongi Station; map. A relatively intimate space at which everyone on the three levels gets a great view of the stage. Acts tend to appeal to an older crowd, with everything from jazz to bossa nova (Sergio Mendes has performed here a few times), and R&B to funk. Tickets usually from ¥5800, but can be much higher for the big names. Events most nights.

Club Quattro クラブクアットロ 5F Quattro Building, 32-13 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3477 8750, club-quattro.com; Shibuya Station; map. Intimate rock music venue which tends to showcase up-and-coming bands and artists, though it also plays host to well-known local and international acts. Tickets ¥2000–4500. Events most nights.

PECHAKUCHA NIGHT

It started in 2003 as an idea to bring people to a new “creative art” basement venue called SuperDeluxe in the then pre-Roppongi Art Triangle days, but in a few short years PechaKucha Night ( pechakucha.org) became a worldwide phenomenon – it has now spread to over 700 cities and counting. Co-created by Tokyo-based architects Astrid Klein and Mark Dytham (KDa), the presentation format – 20 images shown for 20 seconds each, with the exhibitor talking along in time – keeps participants on their toes, often forcing funny ad-lib moments due to the high pace. More importantly, it acts as a platform for these creators to share their ideas. PechaKucha (“chit-chat”) has ended up being the perfect platform for Tokyo’s young, up-and-coming creators who would never previously have had a place to share their works in front of a large audience.

PechaKucha usually takes place once a month, with regular venues including the CORE Kitchen/Space in Shintoranomon and Shibuya’s Hikarie Building.

Liquid Roomリキッドルーム 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku 03 5464 0800, liquidroom.net; Ebisu Station; map. Live-music venue hosting some pretty prominent bands; they also throw DJ events from time to time in their Liquid Loft space. Tickets ¥2800–5800. Events most nights.

Tsutaya O-East 2-14-8 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 5458 4681, shibuya-o.com; Shibuya Station; map. This complex has several venues, all hosting live-music events, ranging from J-pop to hard rock. International bands also play here. Tickets from ¥2500. Events most nights.

WWW B1F Rise Building, 13-17 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku 03 5458 7685, www-shibuya.jp; Shibuya Station; map. Once an arthouse cinema, with its extant tiered hall now functioning as a place to stand and tap your feet. Acts are a mixed bag of genres, from shoegaze to electronica, but they’re all pretty high quality; all-night events sometimes take place in the upper level, and they sell out fast. Tickets from ¥2500. Events most nights.

JAZZ AND BLUES

Blue Note ブルーノート 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 5485 0088, bluenote.co.jp; Omotesandō Station; map. Tokyo’s premier jazz venue, part of the international chain, attracts world-class performers. Entry for shows is ¥6000–10,000 (including one drink) depending on the acts, though prices hit the stratosphere for the global stars. Events most evenings.

Shinjuku Pit Inn 新宿ピットイン B1F Accord Shinjuku Building, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 3354 2024, pit-inn.com; Shinjuku Station; map. Serious, long-standing jazz club which has been the launch platform for many top Japanese performers. Tickets cost ¥3000 in the evening, and less for daytime shows. Shows 2.30pm & 7.30pm most days.

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE MUSIC

Waentei-Kikkō 和えん亭吉幸 2-2-13 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 5828 8833, waentei-kikko.com; Asakusa Station; map. A rare chance to see an excellent live performance of the shamisen (Japanese lute) in a delightful wooden house transported to Asakusa from Takayama. The lunch bentō is beautifully presented kaiseki-style food and costs ¥2500; dinner starts at ¥6800. There are five performances daily; see the website for the schedule. Daily (except Wed) 11.30am–1.30pm & 5–9.30pm.

ENTERTAINMENT AND THE ARTS

Tokyo has all the entertainment options you’d expect of a major city, plus a couple of local ones. Here you can sample all of Japan’s major performing arts, from theatre to contemporary dance. Grab any chance you have to see a concert of traditional Japanese music. Information about performances is available in the English-language press and from the tourist information centres; tickets can be bought from the venue or through a ticket agency.

TRADITIONAL THEATRE

The easiest of Japan’s traditional performance arts for foreigners to enjoy are kabuki and the puppet theatre of bunraku, which predates kabuki but whose plays share many of the same storylines. If you don’t want to sit through a full performance, which can last up to four hours, note that single-act tickets are often available. With its highly stylized, painfully slow movements and archaic language, nō, the country’s oldest form of theatre, isn’t as appealing, though some find the rarefied style incredibly powerful. Take advantage of hiring recorded commentaries in English at the theatre to gain a better understanding of what’s happening on stage. Subtitles displayed on a screen beside the performers (or, at the National Theatre, on the back of each seat) are also sometimes used.

Cerulean Tower Noh Theatre セルリアンタワー能楽堂 26-1 Sakuragaoka-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3477 6412, www.ceruleantower-noh.com; Shibuya Station. In the basement of the luxury Cerulean Tower hotel, this theatre provides an elegant setting for both professional and amateur nō and kyōgen performances (tickets typically ¥3500 and up).

Kabukiza 歌舞伎座 6-18-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3541 2600, kabukiweb.net; Higashi-Ginza Station. Tokyo’s oldest and largest kabuki theatre, this is the best place to head if you’re at all interested in catching a performance. Getting a ticket (¥4000–22,000) can be tricky; they usually become easier to buy after the fifteenth of each month. Single-act tickets (¥800–2000) are available on the door for those who don’t want to commit to a whole performance.

National Noh Theatre 国立能楽堂 4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 03 3230 3000, www.ntj.jac.go.jp; Sendagaya Station. Hosts nō performances several times a month, with tickets starting at around ¥2700. Printed English explanations of the plot help make some sense of what’s going on.

National Theatre 国立劇場 4-1 Hayabusachō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3230 3000, www.ntj.jac.go.jp; Hanzōmon Station. In its two auditoria, Tokyo’s National Theatre puts on a varied programme of traditional theatre and music, including kabuki, bunraku, court music and dance. English-language earphones and programmes are available. Tickets start at around ¥1500 for kabuki and ¥4500 for bunraku.

Shimbashi Embujō 新橋演舞場 6-18-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3541 2600, shinbashi-enbujo.co.jp; Higashi-Ginza Station. This large theatre stages a range of traditional dance, music and theatre, including the “Super-kabuki” (kabuki with all the bells and whistles of modern musical theatre). Single-act tickets for regular kabuki performances range from ¥800 to ¥1500 depending on the length of the act.

DINING WITH ROBOTS

Opened in 2012, the Robot Restaurant (ローボットレストラン; 1-7-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku 03 3200 5500, shinjuku-robot.com; Shinjuku station) is perhaps Tokyo’s zaniest attraction, and provides a little trip back to the wild days before Japan’s financial bubble burst. It all starts at the entrance foyer, where there’s nary an inch of regular, boring space – everything glistens, shines, flashes or reflects. There’s far more of the same heading down the stairs to the trippy, video-screen-lined hall where you’ll be sat with other excited tourists and locals. Though the website, and plenty of YouTube clips, will give you a great idea of what to expect, the performances are far more fun if you have no idea what’s coming – for now, it should suffice to say that dozens of robots, scantily dressed girls, more LEDs than anyone could ever count, and a wall of roaring music are on the cards. Most visitors enjoy it, but a fair few leave grumbling about the price – ¥8000 per head, plus ¥1000 (optional) for a light bentō meal. Performances run daily at noon, 2pm, 4pm, 6.30pm & 8.30pm.

CONTEMPORARY AND INTERNATIONAL THEATRE

Camp as a row of tents, the most unique theatrical experience you can have in Tokyo is Takarazuka, the all-singing, all-dancing, all-female revue which appears occasionally at the Takarazuka Theatre. If your Japanese is up to it, there are plenty of modern Japanese dramas to enjoy: look out for productions by chelfitsch, or anything by the director Ninogawa Yukio who’s famous for his reinterpretations of Shakespeare. Overseas theatre companies often appear at the Tokyo Globe or Shinjuku’s New National Theatre, though seats sell out months in advance for the bigger names.

Black Stripe Theater B1 Sangubashi Guesthouse, 4-50-8 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku 080 4184 0848, blackstripetheater.com; Sangubashi Station. A relatively recent addition to the expat theatre scene, this company has staged plays by Harold Pinter and David Mamet. Tickets ¥4000.

Chelfitsch chelfitsch.net. Founded by award-winning writer Okada Toshiki, this internationally acclaimed group put on excellent shows in Tokyo when they’re not busy touring the globe (which is most of the time). They can usually be relied on for one new performance each year, although the venues and prices vary.

The Globe Tokyo 東京グローブ座 3-1-2 Hyakunin-chō, Shinjuku-ku 03 3366 4020, www.tglobe.net; Shin-Ōkubo Station. A variety of works, including Shakespearean plays and Western-style operas, are performed in this modern-day replica of the famous Elizabethan stage in London. Tickets from ¥4500.

New National Theatre 新国立劇場 1-20 Honmachi, Shinjuku-ku 03 5352 9999, nntt.jac.go.jp; Hatsudai Station. Just behind Tokyo Opera City, the New National Theatre comprises three stages specially designed for Western performing arts, including opera, ballet, dance and drama. Discount tickets (under ¥2000) for restricted-view seats are sold from 10am on the day; you’ll otherwise pay at least double that.

PUK 2-12-3 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku 03 3370 5128, puppettheatrepuk.wordpress.com; Shinjuku Station. This charming puppet theatre was founded in 1929 as La Pupa Klubo, and survived a government witch-hunt during the war. It’s home to a resident group of puppeteers, as well as visiting troupes, and puts on shows that both young and old can enjoy.

Takarazuka Theatre 宝塚劇場 1-1-3 Yūrakuchō, Chūō-ku 03 5251 2001, kageki.hankyu.co.jp; Hibiya Station. Mostly stages musicals, punched out by a huge cast in fabulous costumes. The theatre, immediately north of the Imperial Hotel, also stages regular Takarazuka performances. Tickets start at ¥3500; performances run most days except Wed at either 11am or 1pm, and at 3pm.

Theatre Cocoon シアターコクーン 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3477 9999, www.bunkamura.co.jp; Shibuya Station. Part of Shibuya’s Bunkamura arts centre, this modern theatre hosts some of Tokyo’s more accessible fringe productions.

CLASSICAL MUSIC & OPERA

The city is well stocked with Western classical music venues, and there are usually one or two concerts every week, either by one of Tokyo’s several resident symphony orchestras or by a visiting group, as well as occasional performances of opera. Concerts of traditional Japanese music, played on instruments such as the shakuhachi (flute), the shamisen (a kind of lute that is laid on the ground) and the taiko (drum), are much rarer.

NHK Hall NHKホール 2-2-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku 03 3465 1751, www.nhk-sc.or.jp/nhk_hall; Harajuku or Shibuya stations. One of Tokyo’s older auditoria for classical concerts, but still well thought of and home to the highly rated NHK Symphony Orchestra. It’s next to the NHK Broadcasting Centre, south of Yoyogi-kōen. Tickets cost from ¥2000 to ¥10,000, depending upon the performance.

MAJOR TOKYO FESTIVALS

Whenever you visit Tokyo, the chances are there’ll be a festival (matsuri) taking place somewhere in the city. The tourist information centres can provide comprehensive lists of events in and around Tokyo, or check in the English press for what’s on. Below is a review of the city’s biggest festivals. Note that dates may change, so be sure to double-check before setting out.

January 1: Ganjitsu (or Gantan) The first shrine visit of the year (hatsu-mōde) draws the crowds to Meiji-jingū, Hie-jinja, Kanda Myōjin and other city shrines. Performances of traditional dance and music take place at Yasukuni-jinja. National holiday.

January 6: Dezomeshiki At Tokyo Big Sight in Odaiba, firemen in Edo-period costume pull off dazzling stunts atop long bamboo ladders.

Second Monday in January: Momoteshiki Archery contest and other ancient rituals at Meiji-jingū to celebrate “Coming-of-Age Day”. It’s a good time to spot colourful kimono, here and at other shrines.

February 3 or 4: Setsubun The last day of winter is celebrated with a bean-scattering ceremony to drive away evil. The liveliest festivities take place at Sensō-ji, Kanda Myōjin, Zōjō-ji and Hie-jinja.

March: AnimeJapan Taking place at Tokyo Big Sight, this is one of the world’s largest animation events; as well as screenings and presentations, there’s a fun area for cosplay enthusiasts.

Early April: Hanami Cherry-blossom-viewing parties get into their stride. The best displays are at Chidoriga-fuchi Park and nearby Yasukuni-jinja, Aoyoma Cemetery, Ueno-kōen and Sumida-kōen.

Mid-May: Kanda Matsuri One of Tokyo’s top three festivals, taking place in odd-numbered years at Kanda Myōjin, during which people in Heian-period costume escort eighty gilded mikoshi (portable shrines) through the streets.

Third weekend in May: Sanja Matsuri Tokyo’s most rumbustious annual bash, when over one hundred mikoshi are jostled through the streets of Asakusa, accompanied by lion dancers, geisha and musicians.

Mid-June: Sannō Matsuri The last of the big three festivals (after Kanda and Sanja), this takes place in even-numbered years, focusing on colourful processions of mikoshi through Akasaka.

Early July: Yasukuni Matsuri The four-night summer festival at Tokyo’s most controversial shrine is well worth attending for its jovial parades, Obon dances and festoons of lanterns.

Late July and August: Hanabi Taikai The summer skies explode with thousands of fireworks, harking back to traditional “river opening” ceremonies. The Sumida-gawa display is the most spectacular (view it from riverboats or Asakusa’s Sumida-kōen on the last Sat in July), but those in Edogawa, Tamagawa, Arakawa and Harumi come close.

Mid-August: Fukagawa Matsuri Every three years Tomioka Hachiman-gū, a shrine in Fukugawa, east across the Sumida-gawa from central Tokyo, hosts the city’s wettest festival, when spectators throw buckets of water over a hundred mikoshi being carried through the streets.

November 15: Shichi-go-san Children aged 3, 5 and 7 don traditional garb to visit the shrines, particularly Meiji-jingū, Hie-jinja and Yasukuni-jinja.

Late November: Tokyo International Film Festival One of the world’s top competitive film festivals ( tiff-jp.net), with a focus on Japanese and Asian releases. The main venues for the week-long event are the cinemas in Roppongi Hills and Shibuya’s Bunkamura, though screenings take place at halls and cinemas throughout the city.

December 17–19: Hagoita-ichi The build-up to New Year begins with a battledore fair outside Asakusa’s Sensō-ji temple.

Orchard Hall オーチャドホール 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3477 9111, www.bunkamura.co.jp; Shibuya Station. Part of the Bunkamura arts centre, this large concert hall hosts a wide range of classical music performances throughout the year, and has very good acoustics.

Suntory Hall Ark Hills サントリーホール 1-13-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 3505 1001, suntory.co.jp/suntoryhall; Roppongi-itchōme Station. Reputed to have the best acoustics in the city, this elegant concert hall has one of the world’s largest pipe organs, which is sometimes used for free lunchtime recitals; check the website for details of this and other events. Prices vary by performance.

Tokyo Bunka Kaikan 東京文化会館 5-45 Ueno, Taitō-ku 03 3828 2111, t-bunka.jp; Ueno Station. Tokyo’s largest classical music venue, with an extravagantly designed main hall seating over 2300. It has a busy and varied schedule of performances and a marvellous interior dating back to the 1960s, while ticket prices tend to be cheap.

Tokyo International Forum 東京国際フォーラム 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku 03 5221 9000, www.t-i-forum.co.jp; Yūrakuchō Station. The Forum’s four multipurpose halls (including one of the world’s largest auditoria, with over five thousand seats) host an eclectic mix of performing arts, including classical music and opera.

Tokyo Opera City 東京オペラシティ 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 5353 9999, operacity.jp; Hatsudai Station. This stunningly designed concert hall, with a giant pipe organ, seats over 1600 and has excellent acoustics – though despite its name it hosts only music concerts, not full-blown opera. There’s a more intimate recital hall too.

CINEMA

On “First Day” (in other words the first day of the month, though some chains have their own monthly “Cinema Day” on different dates), tickets cost ¥1100, as opposed to the regular price of around ¥1800, or ¥2500 for a reserved seat (shitei-seki). Women can also get discounted tickets (¥1000) on Ladies' Day, usually Wednesday. Otherwise, you can buy slightly reduced tickets in advance from a ticket agency. Listings are published on Friday in The Japan Times, and can also be found on online sources such as Metropolis ( metropolisjapan.com) and Time Out ( timeout.com/tokyo).

Cinema Vera シネマヴェーラ 4F Kinohaus, 1-5 Maruyama-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3461 7703, cinemavera.com; Shibuya Station. The vast majority of films here are Japanese-language only; however, they’re mainly black-and-white or Technicolor classics dating from the 1950s to the 1970s, and the location in the heart of Shibuya’s raucous love-motel district makes this a good date spot.

National Film Archive 東京国立近代美術館フィルムアーカイブ 3-7-6 Kyōbashi, Chūō-ku 03 3272 8600, nfaj.go.jp; Kyōbashi Station. A treasure-trove for cinephiles, with a small gallery on the seventh floor for film-related exhibitions and two small cinemas screening retrospectives from their vast movie archive. Most are Japanese classics, though they occasionally dust off their collection of foreign films.

Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills TOHOシネマズ六本木ヒレズ Roppongi Hills, Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 5775 6090; Roppongi Station. Ultra-modern multiplex cinema with bookable seats, late-night screenings and popular Japanese films with English subtitles.

Uplink アップリンク 37-18 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 6825 5502, uplink.co.jp; Shibuya Station. World cinema is a staple at this arts centre, which combines a couple of cinemas with a gallery, live music, bar and various workshops.

Yebisu Garden Cinema 恵比寿ガーデンシネマ Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku 03 5420 6161; Ebisu Station. There are two screens at this modern cinema, with numbered seating, showing an interesting range of non-mainstream US and British releases.

SHOPPING

Cruising the boutiques and fashion malls while toting a couple of designer-label carrier bags is such a part of Tokyo life that it’s hard not to get caught up in the general enthusiasm. There are shops to suit every taste and budget, from funky fashion boutiques and swanky department stores to some great crafts shops and wonderfully quirky souvenir and novelty stores. Antique and bargain hunters shouldn’t miss out on a visit to one of the city’s flea markets, which if nothing else can turn up some unusual curios. More information can be found at tokyo-bazaar.com.

ANIME AND MANGA

Manga are available just about everywhere, from train station kiosks to bookshops – at the latter and in CD shops you’ll also find anime DVDs. Akihabara is the key shopping area for anime, manga and associated character goods, though with some time on your hands you could also give Ikebukuro or Nakano a try. Apart from the places listed below, devoted fans should schedule time at the shops in the Ghibli Museum.

Comic Tora-no-ana コミックとらのあな 4-3-1 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku 03 3526 5330; Akihabara Station; map. Seven floors of manga- and anime-related products, including self-published works and secondhand comics on the top floor. There are several other branches across the city. Daily 10am–10pm.

Mandarake まんだらけ 31-2 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku 03 3477 0777, mandarake.co.jp; Shibuya Station; map. If you’re into character dolls and plastic figures based on anime and manga, this subterranean operation is the place to head. They also have a wide range of secondhand manga as well as posters, cards and even costumes. There’s another branch in Akihabara. Daily noon–8pm.

ANTIQUE AND FLEA MARKETS

There’s at least one flea market in Tokyo every weekend, though you’ll need to arrive early for any bargains.

Hanazono-jinja 花園神社 5-17-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station; map. You’re more likely to find junk than real antiques at this market, but its setting in the grounds of a shrine, on the east side of Shinjuku, is highly attractive. Most Sundays 6am–3pm.

Ōedo Antique Market 大江戸骨董市 Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku antique-market.jp; Yūrakuchō Station; map. One of the largest regular flea markets in Tokyo, with some 250 vendors offering real antiques and interesting curios. Don’t expect any bargains, though. Usually first and third Sun of month 9am–4pm.

Yasukuni-jinja 靖国神社 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda-ku; Kudanshita or Ichigaya stations; map. One of the few temple flea markets which actually takes place every week, the goods on offer here aren’t always particularly impressive, but the dramatic setting makes it a great visit anyway. Sun dawn–dusk.

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Tokyo has a wealth of specialist arts and crafts shops, with the largest concentration in and around Asakusa. All the following outlets are good places to hunt for souvenirs, including paper products, satin-smooth lacquerware and sumptuous textiles. Also check out the splendid gift shop at the Japan Folk Crafts Museum for folk craft items, and the ones in the basement of the National Art Center for great contemporary gifts.

GINZA AND AROUND

Ginza Natsuno 銀座夏野 6-7-4 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3569 0952, www.e-ohashi.com; Ginza Station; map. Stuffed to the rafters with an incredible collection of over 1000 types of chopstick, plus chopstick rests and rice bowls. Prices go very high, but you’ll find good ones for under ¥1000. Several other branches around the city. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 10am–7pm.

Itō-ya 伊東屋 2-7-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3561 8311, ito-ya.co.jp; Shibuya Station; map. This fabulous stationery store comprising 11 floors and two annexes (Itō-ya 2 & 3), is a treasure-trove full of packable souvenirs such as traditional washi paper, calligraphy brushes, inks and so on. There are several other branches around the city, including one in Ginza station. Mon–Sat 10.30am–8pm, Sun 10.30am–7pm.

Kyūkyodō 鳩居堂 5-7-4 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 4429; Ginza Station; map. Filled with the dusty smell of sumi-e ink, this venerable shop has been selling traditional paper, calligraphy brushes and inkstones since 1800. During Edo times, they provided incense to the Emperor but the shop’s history actually goes back even further – it was first founded in Kyoto in 1663 and, amazingly, the same family still runs it. Daily 10am–7pm.

AKIHABARA AND AROUND

Origami Kaikan おりがみ会館 1-7-14 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku 03 3811 4025, origamikaikan.co.jp; Ochanomizu Station; map. This outpost for the production and dyeing of washi (Japanese paper) was founded in 1858, and to this day they continue to sell it on the premises – there’s also an exhibition hall on the second floor. It’s possible to take lessons (some free) in the art of paper folding here. Mon–Sat 9.30am–6pm.

UENO AND AROUND

Jūsan-ya 十三や 2-12-21 Ueno, Taitō-ku 03 3831 3238; Ueno-Hirokōji Station; map. Tiny shop across the road from Shinobazu Pond, where a craftsman sits making beautiful boxwood combs – just as successive generations have done since 1736. A truly beautiful place to visit, even if you’re not buying. Mon–Sat 10am–6.30pm.

ASAKUSA AND AROUND

Bengara べんがら 1-35-6 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3841 6613; Asakusa Station; map. This tiny store is crammed with a wide variety of noren, the split curtain seen hanging outside every traditional shop or restaurant. Even if you don’t own a shop or restaurant, there’ll be somewhere suitable in your own home for one of these. Daily 10am–6pm; closed third Sun of month.

Fujiya ふじ屋 2-2-15 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3841 2283; Asakusa Station; map. Hand-printed cotton towels (tenugui) designed by the Kawakami family; some end up becoming collectors’ items, so choose carefully. Daily (except Thurs) 10am–6pm.

Kanesō かね惣 1-18-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3844 1379; Asakusa Station; map. A mind-boggling array of knives, scissors, shears and files, crafted by the Hirano family over five generations. Daily 11am–7pm.

Yonoya Kushiho よのや櫛舗 1-37-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 3844 1755; Asakusa Station; map. Tokyo’s finest hand-crafted boxwood combs and hair decorations; much of the wood used here is sourced from forest land south of Kagoshima, and it’s reputed to be particularly suitable for hair. Daily (except Wed) 10.30am–6pm.

AKASAKA AND ROPPONGI

Art & Design Store 3F Roppongi Hills West Walk, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 6406 6654; Roppongi Station; map. A wonderful store near the entrance to Roppongi Hills’ City View. The selection is ever-changing, but often features products from some of Japan’s most famous contemporary designers; look out for the polka-dot-splashed produce of Yayoi Kusama. There’s also a small gallery space here. Daily 11am–9pm.

Blue & White ブルー＆ワイと 2-9-2 Azabu-Jūban, Minato-ku 03 3451 0537; Azabu-Jūban Station; map. Small store that sells exclusively blue-and-white-coloured products made in Japan including yukata, furoshiki (textile wrapping cloths), quilts, pottery and traditional decorations. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm.

Japan Traditional Craft Centre 伝統工芸青山スクエア 1F Akasaka Ouji Building, 8-1-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 5785 1001, kougeihin.jp; Aoyama-itchōme Station; map. This centre showcases the works of craft associations across the nation – everything from finely crafted chopsticks to elegant lacquerware and metalwork. Great stuff, but not cheap by any means. Daily 10am–7pm.

EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH

Kamawanu かまわぬ 1-19-23 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3797 4788; Daikanyama Station; map. Small shop selling excellent tenugui cloths in a variety of styles which, although modern, also make use of Japanese motifs. They also have a very nice-looking range of traditional fans. Daily 11am–7pm.

Yamada Heiandō 山田平安堂 2F Hillside Terrace, 18-12 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3464 5541, heiando.com; Daikanyama Station; map. Hunt down this store for lacquerware – both traditional and contemporary – found on tables no less distinguished than those of the imperial household and Japan’s embassies. Mon–Sat 10.30am–7pm, Sun 10.30am–6.30pm.

HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA

Musubi むす美 2-31-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 5414 5678; Meiji-jingūmae Station; map. Pick up beautifully printed fabric furoshiki here to use instead of wrapping paper – they’re also great gifts in themselves. Their origami design prints are particularly unusual. Note that there’s no obvious sign on the shop – look for the handbags on the ground level of a silver building. Daily (except Wed) 11am–7pm.

Oriental Bazaar オリエンタルバザー 5-9-13 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3400 3933, orientalbazaar.co.jp; Meiji-jingūmae Station; map. Although it may seem like a tourist trap, this very popular, one-stop souvenir emporium, selling everything from secondhand kimono to origami paper and top-class antiques, offers great deals and an almost unbeatable selection. Daily (except Thurs) 10am–7pm.

BOOKS AND MUSIC

Most big hotels have a shop stocking English-language books on Japan, as well as imported newspapers and magazines. In an age of digital downloads, Tokyo bucks the trend by sustaining many CD and record shops. The range of music on offer is impressively eclectic, with a huge selection of foreign imports boosting an already mammoth local output of cheesy J-pop.

Disk Union ディスクユニオン 1-40-6 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku 03 3467 3231; Shimokitazawa Station; map. Of the twenty-odd Disk Union branches scattered around Tokyo (there are several in Shinjuku), the Shimokitazawa one is by far the most notable – a huge venue with pretty much every major genre and subgenre covered, and one of Tokyo’s best vinyl collections. Daily 11.30am–9pm.

Kitazawa Book Store 北沢書店 2F 2-5 Jimbōchō, Chiyoda-ku 03 3263 0011; Jimbōchō Station; map. The stately granite- and brick-fronted building houses one of the best selections of English-language titles among the dozens of secondhand stores in Jimbōchō – head up to the second level, which is absolutely gorgeous, almost like something from a film. Mon–Fri 11am–6.30pm, Sat noon–5.30pm.

Kinokuniya 紀伊國屋 Takashimaya Times Square, Annex Building, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shinjuku-ku 03 5361 3301; Shinjuku Station; map. The sixth floor of Kinokuniya’s seven-storey Shinjuku outlet offers Tokyo’s widest selection of foreign-language books and magazines, including loads of Rough Guides. Daily 10am–8pm; closed one Wed each month.

Tsutaya 蔦屋 17-5 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3770 2525, tsite.jp; Daikanyama Station; map. The design of this bookshop, whose exterior weaves together a lattice of white letter Ts, has scooped architects Klein Dytham a bunch of awards. Filled all day, every day with a preening young crowd, it’s now the fulcrum of the whole Daikanyama area. They’ve a tremendous selection of English-language books, as well as a Starbucks (good luck finding a seat) and lounge bar. Daily 7am–2am.

CAMERAS AND ELECTRONIC GOODS

Akihabara boasts Tokyo’s biggest concentration of stores selling electronic goods. Shinjuku is Tokyo’s prime area for cameras and photographic equipment, though Ikebukuro also has a solid reputation for new and secondhand deals at reasonable prices. Compare prices – many shops are open to bargaining – and make sure there’s the appropriate voltage switch (the Japanese power supply is 100V). It’s also important to check that whatever you buy will be compatible with equipment you have at home.

BIC Camera ビックカメラ 1-11-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku 03 5221 1111; Yūrakuchō Station; map. The main branch of BIC offers hard-to-beat prices for cameras and audio and electronic goods – practically any gizmo you want can be found here. You’ll find other branches scattered around Tokyo’s main shopping centres, including several in Ikebukuro, Shinjuku and Shibuya. Daily 10am–10pm.

Laox ラオクス 1-2-9 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku 03 3255 9041; Akihabara Station; map. One of the most prominent names in Akiba and probably the best place to start browsing: they have a well-established duty-free section with English-speaking staff, and nine stores where you can buy everything from pocket calculators to plasma screen TVs. Mon–Fri 10am–8pm, Fri & Sat 10am–9pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES

Although they’re not as popular as they once were, Tokyo’s massive department stores are likely to have almost anything you’re looking for.

Isetan 伊勢丹 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03 3352 1111, isetan.co.jp; Shinjuku-sanchōme Station; map. One of the city’s best department stores, with an emphasis on well-designed local goods and a reputation for promoting up-and-coming fashion designers. Their annexe, housing men’s clothing and accessories, is particularly chic. The daily opening ceremony, with all staff bowing as you walk through the store, is worth attending. Daily 10am–8pm.

KIMONO AND YUKATA

Japan’s national costume, the kimono, is still worn by mny people on special occasions, such as weddings and festival visits to a shrine. Ready-made kimono can easily cost ¥100,000, while ¥1 million is not uncommon for the best made-to-measure garments. Secondhand or antique kimono, with prices as low as ¥1000, can be found at tourist shops, flea markets or in the kimono sales held by department stores, usually in spring and autumn; Oriental Bazaar also offers a good selection of pre-loved kimono. You’ll pay more for the highly decorated wedding kimono (they make striking wall hangings), as well as for the most beautifully patterned obi, the broad, silk sash worn with a kimono. Light cotton yukata are popular for use in summer, and even as dressing gowns; you’ll find them in all department stores and many speciality stores, along with happi coats – the loose jackets that just cover the upper body. To complete the outfit, pick up a pair of traditional wooden sandals (geta).

Chicago シカゴ 4-26-26 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 5414 5107, www.chicago.co.jp; Meiji-jingūmae Station. There’s a fine selection of kimono, obi and so on at this Harajuku thrift store, as well as rack upon rack of good used clothes – plus more at another branch, just along the road. Daily 11am–8pm.

Gallery Kawano ギャラリー 川野 102 Flats-Omotesandō, 4-4-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3470 3305; Omotesandō Station. Excellent selection of vintage kimono, yukata and obi, with swatches of gorgeous kimono fabric available too. Daily 11am–6pm.

Sakura 桜 2-41-8 Asakusa, Taitō-ku 03 5826 5622; Asakusa Station. Not your regular kimono shop – this tiny store sells Gothic-style clothing made with patches of old kimono fabric. Their pantaloons, which morph from skirts to trousers by way of hidden buttons, are fantastic. Daily 12.30–9.30pm.

Mitsukoshi 三越 1-4-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku 03 3241 3311; Mitsukoshimae Station; map. Tokyo’s most prestigious and oldest department store – dating back to 1673 – is elegant, spacious and renowned for its high-quality merchandise. Designer boutiques and more contemporary fashions are concentrated in the southerly shin-kan (“new building”). Daily 10.30am–7.30pm.

Seibu 西武 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku 03 3981 0111; Ikebukuro Station; map. Sprawling department store with a reputation for innovation, especially in its homeware store Loft, and its clothing and lifestyle offshoot Parco. There’s a great chill-out area on the rooftop. Mon–Sat 10am–9pm, Sun 10am–8pm.

Tōkyū 東急 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03 3477 3111; Shibuya Station; map. Top dog in the Shibuya department store stakes, with branches all over the area, particularly around the train station. This main store specializes in designer fashions and interior goods. Daily 11am–7pm.

FASHION

The city’s epicentre of clothing chic is Omotesandō, where dazzlingly designed boutiques for famed brands such as Chanel, Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton vie to outdo each other in extravagance, alongside top Japanese labels such as Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons. Daikanyama, Nakameguro and Shimokitazawa are also worth browsing around – the fashion shops in the last two areas are slightly cheaper. For shoes, ubiquitous ABC-Mart stores are usually your best bet.

GINZA AND AROUND

Dover Street Market 6-9-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 6228 5080, ginza.doverstreetmarket.com; Ginza Station; map. This large new complex has started to draw fashionistas back to Ginza from the west, and with good reason – the several floors here feature clothing from almost every major Japanese designer, plus a few of the Antwerp Six, without the department-store atmosphere that usually goes with such choice. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm.

Uniqlo ユニクロ 5-7-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3569 6781 www.uniqlo.co.jp; Ginza Station; map. Inexpensive but still cool, this local brand has found mammoth success overseas. This is their flagship Tokyo store, designed by Klein Dytham, also responsible for the Tsutaya bookshop in Daikanyama. Other branches all over the city. Daily 11am–9pm.

EBISU, MEGURO AND THE SOUTH

Evisu エヴィス 1-1-5 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku 03 3710 1999, evisu.com; Nakameguro Station; map. Main branch of the ultra-trendy – and ultra-pricey – Japanese jeans designer. Stock up here on shirts, T-shirts, sweatshirts and a full range of accessories. Daily noon–8pm.

Okura オクラ 20-11 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 3461 8511. Daikanyama Station; map. Youthful boutique specializing in indigo-dyed traditional and contemporary Japanese fashions, from jeans and T-shirts to kimono and tabi socks. No English sign – look for a low, wooden-style building, usually with some form of indigo fabric hanging outside. Daily 11am–8pm.

HARAJUKU, AOYAMA AND SHIBUYA

6% Dokidoki ロクパーセントドキドキ 2F 4-28-16 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3479 6116, dokidoki6.com; Meiji-jingūmae Station; map. Focusing on the “Kawaii” clothing genre, this second-floor store is as loud as it gets: loud clothing, loud decor, loud music. Daily noon–8pm.

Bapexclusive 5-5-8 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 3407 2145, bape.com; Omotesandō Station; map. A Bathing Ape, the streetwear brand of designer Nigo, has a string of boutiques all over Aoyama and Harajuku, of which this is the main showroom. One of their T-shirts will set you back at least ¥6000. Daily 11am–8pm.

Comme des Garçons 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 3406 3951, comme-des-garcons.com; Omotesandō Station; map. More like an art gallery than a clothes shop, this beautiful store is a suitable setting for the high-fashion menswear and womenswear by renowned designer Kawakubo Rei. Daily 11am–8pm.

Hysterics 5-5-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 6419 3899, hystericglamour.jp; Omotesandō Station; map. The premier outlet for Hysteric Glamour, a fun, retro-kitsch Americana label which is one of Japan’s leading youth brands. Daily noon–8pm.

Issey Miyake 三宅一生 3-18-11 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 3423 1407, isseymiyake.co.jp; Omotesandō Station; map. One of the top names in world fashion, famous for his elegant, eminently wearable designs. This flagship store, a pink building with Art Deco touches, is suitably fancy. Daily 11am–8pm.

Kura Chika Yoshida クラチカヨシダ 5-6-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 5464 1766, www.yoshidakaban.com; Omotesandō Station; map. Access the full range of bags, wallets and luggage at this shrine to the hip Japanese brand Porter. It’s just off Omotesandō, behind Tokyo Union Church. Daily (except Wed) noon–8pm.

Onitsuka Tiger おにつかタイガー 4-24-14 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 3405 6671, onitsukatiger.com; Meiji-jingūmae Station; map. Selling trainers as seen on the most fashionable feet, this Japanese brand started business back in 1949. Other branches across the city. Daily 11am–8pm.

Ragtag ラグタグ 6-14-2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku 03 6419 3770, ragtag.jp; Meiji-jingūmae Station; map. A great place selling secondhand goods from selected designers, including local uber-brands Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and United Arrows. Daily 11am–8pm.

Sou Sou そうそう 5-4-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 03 3407 7877, sousou.co.jp; Omotesandō Station; map. After the Japanese saying “sō sō”, meaning “I agree with you”, this range of modern design shoes and clothes based on traditional forms, such as split-toe tabi (socks), is eminently agreeable. Their plimsolls are an ideal match for jeans. There’s also an outlet in Venus Fort. Daily 11am–8pm.

Yohji Yamamoto 山本耀司 5-3-6 Minami-Aoyama, Shibuya-ku 03 3409 6006, yohjiyamamoto.co.jp; Omotesandō Station; map. Flagship store of Japanese fashion icon Yohji Yamamoto, famed for his edgy, single-colour designs. Daily 11am–8pm.

SHINJUKU AND THE WEST

The Four-Eyed 2-8-2 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku, thefoureyed.shop; Higashi-Shinjuku Station; map. This shop has an impeccably selected range of pricey menswear, but that’s only half the story – it’s set in a former love motel, off a hidden courtyard that can only be accessed by bypassing the lobby of another love motel (the Avyss)... Kabukichō in a nutshell. Daily 1–9pm.

New York Joe ニューヨークジョー 3-26-4 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku 03 5738 2077; Shimokitazawa Station; map. Set in what was once a bathhouse, this is the best of the area’s many vintage clothing stores, selling a wide range of first-rate secondhand goods. All items are under ¥10,000, and you can get a big discount if taking suitable goods to swap. Daily noon–8pm.

TOYS, GAMES AND NOVELTIES

Tokyo’s top toy and novelty stores are prime hunting grounds for the next big craze before it hits the world market. For more traditional playthings, poke around the craft stalls of Asakusa’s Nakamise-dōri. Also keep an eye out for the ubiquitous “¥100 Shops” (everything at ¥108, including tax), which can yield a crop of bargain souvenirs.

Don Quijote ドンキホーテ 3-14-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 578 6811, donki.com; Roppongi Station; map. Fancy some sushi-print socks? A mind-boggling array of stuff is piled high and sold cheap here – everything from liquor to sex toys, as well as gadgets galore. A national institution, it’s worth visiting just for the gawp factor. Several branches around the city. Daily 24hr.

Hakuhinkan Toy Park 博品館 8-8-11 Ginza, Chūō-ku 03 3571 8008, hakuhinkan.co.jp; Shimbashi Station; map. This huge toy shop also houses a theatre, staging Japanese-language shows which might entertain little ones – or at least distract them from spending up a storm on your behalf. Daily 11am–8pm.

Tamiya Plamodel Factory タミヤプラモデルファクトリー 6 Toyokaiji Building, 4-7-2 Shimbashi, Minato-ku 03 3719 8124, tamiya-plamodelfactory.co.jp; Shimbashi Station; map. Model-kit enthusiasts rejoice – the Japanese manufacturer’s entire range is available in this three-level emporium, showcasing thousands of scale and radio-controlled models of automobiles, planes, boats and military hardware. Mon–Fri noon–10pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm.

Village Vanguard ヴィレジヴァンガード 23-3 Udagawa-chō, Shibuya-ku 03 5281 5535; Shibuya Station; map. This “exciting bookstore” stocks an amazing hotchpotch of toys and novelties, from inflatable bananas to Batman accessories – and a few fun books and CDs. You’ll find quite a few branches around the city. Daily 10am–11pm.

SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES

In 1964, Tokyo became the first Asian city to host the Olympic Games, and was selected for a second hosting in 2020; they also hosted the 2019 Rugby World Cup. Baseball is the city’s premier sporting obsession, but football is hot on its heels. Japan’s national sport, sumo, also has a high profile, although its popularity has slipped in recent decades.

BASEBALL

The baseball season runs from April to October. Tokyo’s big teams are the Yomiuri Giants and the Yakult Swallows. Tickets start at under ¥2000, and go on sale on the Friday two weeks prior to a game.

Meiji Jingū Baseball Stadium 神宮球場 13 Kasumigaoka, Shinjuku-ku 03 3404 8999, www.jingu-stadium.com; Gaienmae Station. One of the stadia grouped in Meiji-jingū’s Outer Gardens, this is the base of the Yakult Swallows, and hosts the college baseball Tokyo Big Six league.

Tokyo Dome 東京ドーム 1-3 Koraku, Bunkyō-ku 03 5800 9999, tokyo-dome.co.jp; Suidōbashi Station. This huge covered arena, affectionately nicknamed the “Big Egg”, is home to the Yomiuri Giants, and is a great place to take in a night game.

FOOTBALL

Professional J-League ( jleague.jp) games are held from March to October, with a break in August. Eighteen clubs play in the top J1 division, and together with teams from lower leagues, they also participate in the Emperor’s Cup; primarily a winter event, its final takes place on New Year’s Day.

Ajinomoto Stadium 味の素スタジアム 376-3 Nishimachi, Chōfu 0424 400555; Tobitakyū Station. Head west on the Keiō line to reach this stadium, home to FC Tokyo ( fctokyo.co.jp) and Tokyo Verdy ( www.verdy.co.jp).

MARTIAL ARTS

From judo and karate to aikido and kendo, Tokyo is the best place in Japan to sate any martial arts cravings you may have. The tourist information centres can provide a list of dōjō that allow visitors to watch practice sessions for free.

All-Japan Kendo Federation 全日本剣道連盟 Nippon Budōkan, 2-3 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku 03 3211 5804; Kudanshita Station. The Budōkan is the venue for the All-Japan Championships each autumn, and the children’s kendo competition in the summer.

International Aikido Federation 全日本合気道連盟 17-18 Wakamatsu-chō, Shinjuku-ku 03 3203 9236, aikikai.or.jp; Wakamatsu-Kawada Station. You can learn more about the sport by heading here – if you like what you see and are in Tokyo for a while, it’s quite possible to participate in their classes.

Japan Karate Association 日本空手協会 2-23-15 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku 03 5800 3091, jka.or.jp; Iidabashi or Kōrakuen stations. Home of the world’s largest karate association teaching the Shokotan tradition. You can apply to train here, but it’s best to call or email first.

Kōdōkan 講道館 1-16-30 Kasuga, Bunkyō-ku 03 3818 4172, kodokanjudoinstitute.org; Kasuga or Kōrakuen stations. This dōjō has an upper-floor spectators’ gallery open to visitors free of charge, with classes held most evenings. There’s also a hostel here where you can stay if you have an introduction from an authorized judo body or an approved Japanese sponsor. Classes Mon–Fri 5–8pm, Sat 5–7.30pm.

Nippon Budōkan 日本武道館 2-3 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku 03 3216 5143, nipponbudokan.or.jp; Kudanshita Station. Around fifty free martial-arts exhibition matches are held annually at this large, octagonal arena, an important centre for all martial arts, as well as judo.

SUMO

There’s something fascinating about Japan’s national sport, sumo, even though the titantic clashes between the enormous, near-naked wrestlers can be blindingly brief. The age-old pomp and ceremony that surrounds sumo give the sport a gravitas completely absent from Western wrestling. While sumo has declined substantially in popularity since the turn of the millennium, it is currently undergoing something of a renaissance. If you’re in Tokyo at tournament (basho) time, it’s certainly worth popping along to watch sumo. Dates of tournaments, as well as other useful information, are posted on the Nihon Sumō Kyōkai website ( sumo.or.jp).

National Sumo Stadium 国技館 1-3-28 Yokoami, Kōtō-ku 03 3622 1100, sumo.or.jp; Ryōgoku Station. The National Sumo Stadium in Ryōgoku is the venue for Tokyo’s three basho during the middle fortnights of January, May and September, with tickets going on sale a month before each tournament. They’re available from ticket agencies, but the cheapest ones (up in the gods) are only sold on the day (¥2200); tickets often sell out by 8am.

DIRECTORY

Banks As with the rest of Japan, the ATMs with the best chance of accepting foreign cards are in post offices and convenience stores.

Embassies Australia, 2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku 03 5232 4111, japan.embassy.gov.au; Canada, 7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 5412 6200, japan.gc.ca; China, 3-4-33 Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku 03 3403 3064, www.china-embassy.or.jp; Ireland, 2-10-7 Kōjimachi, Chiyoda-ku 03 3263 0695, irishembassy.jp; New Zealand, 20-40 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku 03 3467 2271, nzembassy.com/japan; Russian Federation, 2-1-1 Azabudai, Minato-ku 03 3583 4224, tokyo.mid.ru; South Africa, 4F 1-4 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku 03 3265 3366, sajapan.org; South Korea, 1-2-5 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku 03 3452 7611; UK, 1 Ichibanchō, Chiyoda-ku 03 5211 1100, ukinjapan.fco.gov.uk; USA, 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku 03 3224 5000, jp.usembassy.gov.

PUBLIC BATHS AND ONSEN

Until a few decades ago life in Tokyo’s residential neighbourhoods focused round the sentō, the public bath. A surprising number of sentō survive, many fed by natural onsen waters, and these are supplemented by larger hot-spring resorts, some of which truck curative water in from elsewhere. Wherever you head, note that it’s hugely important to observe local bathing etiquette.

Komparu-yu 金春湯 8-7-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; Ginza Station. One of the most central bathhouses in Tokyo, and a great little place to stop off for a scrub while touring Ginza. It’s cheap, and suits the area nicely (as it should, having been here since 1863), with the decor featuring the near-obligatory Mount Fuji mural as well as other tiling depicting flowers, animals and the like. ¥460, plus ¥130 for a towel. Mon–Sat 2–10pm.

Ōedo Onsen Monogatari 大江戸温泉物語 2-6-3 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; free shuttle buses from Shinagawa and Tokyo stations. More of a theme park than a bathhouse, this giant onsen goes in for nostalgic kitsch in a big way. Extra fees are charged for massages, hot sand and stone baths and a separate footbath in which tiny fish nibble the dead skin from your feet – more pleasant than it sounds. Mon–Fri ¥2610 (¥2070 after 6pm), Sat & Sun ¥2830 (¥2290 after 6pm), ¥2160 surcharge 1am–6am. Daily 11am–9am.

Spa LaQua 6F 1-1-1 Kasuga, Bunkyō-ku; Suidōbashi or Korakuen stations. Spread over five floors, this is by far the most sophisticated of Tokyo’s bathing complexes, and is fed by onsen water pumped from 1700m underground. Mon–Fri ¥2630, Sat & Sun ¥2960; ¥1940 surcharge 1am–6am. Daily 11am–9am.

Emergencies The Tokyo Metropolitan Police has an English-language hotline on 03 3501 0110 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.15pm). Japan Helpline ( 0570 000911, jhelp.com) provides 24hr advice in English, while Tokyo English Life Line ( 03 5774 0992, telljp.com) provides telephone counselling (daily 9am–11pm). Numbers for the emergency services are listed in Basics.

Hospitals and clinics To find an English-speaking doctor and the hospital or clinic best suited to your needs, phone the Tokyo Medical Information Service (Mon–Fri 9am–8pm; 03 5285 8181, himawari.metro.tokyo.jp); they can also provide emergency medical translation services over the phone. Two major hospitals with English-speaking doctors are St Luke’s International Hospital at 9-1 Akashichō, Chūō-ku ( 03 3541 5151, hospital.luke.or.jp), and Tokyo Adventist Hospital at 3-17-3 Amanuma, Suginami-ku ( 03 3392 6151); their reception desks are open Mon–Fri 8.30–11am for non-emergency cases. Among several private clinics with English-speaking staff, try Tokyo Medical and Surgical Clinic at 32 Shiba-kōen Building, 3-4-30 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku (by appointment only Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat 8.30am–noon; 03 3436 3028, tmsc.jp).

Immigration To renew visas, apply to the Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau at 5-5-30 Konan, Minato-ku (Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 1–4pm; 03 5796 7112, www.immi-moj.go.jp). To reach it, take the Konan exit from Shinagawa Station and then bus #99 from bus stop 8. Go early in the day since the process takes forever.

Left luggage Most hotels will keep luggage for a few days. The baggage room (daily 7.30am–8.30pm) at Tokyo Station can hold bags for the day for ¥600; the station information desks will point the way. Coin lockers can be found in many metro stations (¥300–800 depending on size), and can be used for up to three days.

Lost property If you’ve lost something, try the local police box (kōban). Alternatively, ask your hotel to help call the following offices to reclaim lost property: taxis 03 3648 0300; JR 03 3231 1880; Tokyo Metro 03 3834 5577; Toei bus and subway 03 3812 2011. If all else fails, contact the Metropolitan Police Lost and Found Office on 03 3501 0110.

Pharmacies The American Pharmacy in the Marunouchi Building at 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku (Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 10am–9pm, Sun 10am–8pm; 03 5220 7716), has English-speaking pharmacists and a good range of drugs and general medical supplies. Alternatively, try the National Azabu Pharmacy ( 03 3442 3495), above the National Azabu supermarket (nearest subway Station Hiro-o). Major hotels usually stock a limited array of common medicines.

Post offices Tokyo’s Central Post Office is on the west side of Tokyo Station. Major post offices that are open daily 24 hours can be found in Shinjuku and Shibuya, among other city areas.

Ticket agencies To buy tickets for theatre performances, concerts and sporting events, use one of the major advance ticket agencies: Ticket Pia ( t.pia.jp), branches of which can be found in all main city areas; or Lawson ( l-tike.com), which has thousands of convenience stores across the city. Major events sell out quickly; don’t expect to be able to buy tickets at the venue door.

< Back to Tokyo

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VIEW OF MOUNT FUJI FROM FUJI-YOSHIDA

Around Tokyo

Nikkō and around

Narita

Kawagoe

Yokohama

Kamakura and around

Fuji Five Lakes

Hakone

Izu Hantō

Izu-Ōshima

Around Tokyo

Tokyo has more than enough sights to keep you busy, but it doesn’t take long to get to some great places from the capital, and it’s well worth the effort. The single best reason for venturing out is Nikkō, around 130km to the north, famed for its World Heritage-listed, mountain-based shrine complex. West of Tokyo there’s the scenic Fuji Five Lakes area, from where you’ll be able to tackle Japan’s highest and most majestic peak, or simply relax in the beautiful countryside; and Hakone, a mix of sulphur-seeping moonscapes, thrilling cable-car rides and hot springs.

The temple complex of Naritasan Shinshō-ji, with its lovely pagoda, extensive gardens, woods and ornamental ponds, is the highlight of the pilgrim town of Narita, some 60km northeast of Tokyo. Around 40km north of Tokyo, meanwhile, is Kawagoe, a great place to wander through nostalgic nineteenth-century streetscapes, poke around ancient temples and shrines, and indulge in some serious souvenir shopping.

Sacred Mount Takao, just an hour west of the capital, provides a more verdant escape for the casual walker and is the starting point for serious hikes northwest to the Chichibu-Tama National Park. Further west lie the inviting landscapes of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, particularly beautiful around Hakone and south through Izu Hantō, which warrant a couple of days’ exploration. Off the coast here, Ōshima pokes its smouldering head out of the ocean, its laidback way of life providing a beguiling excursion for those on a more leisurely schedule.

Closer to Tokyo, Kamakura is one of Japan’s major historical sights, home to several imposing Zen temples and the country’s second-largest bronze Buddha, the magnificent Daibutsu. There are also hiking trails through the surrounding hills, and an enjoyable train ride further along the coast to the sacred island of Enoshima. Just north of Kamakura you’re back into the urban sprawl where Tokyo merges with Yokohama, Japan’s second-largest and most cosmopolitan city.

Nikkō and around

日 光

“NIKKŌ is Nippon”, goes the town’s slogan. It’s only half-correct, though: visitors to Japan come expecting a mix of the ancient and the modern, but this town, 128km north of the capital, is up there with the most traditional in the country. In fact, it’s what a lot of people expect of Kyoto, the vaunted dynastic capital way out west, before they see the traffic jams, factories and high-rise buildings.

Most visit Nikkō to see the World Heritage-listed Tōshō-gū shrine complex, which sits at the base of mountains crisscrossed by the outstanding hiking trails of Nikkō National Park. It’s also worth investigating the far less crowded Tōshō-gū Museum of Art, and the Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park, before crossing the Daiya-gawa to explore the dramatically named Ganman-ga-fuchi abyss – in fact a modest gorge flanked by a tranquil walking path. The most beautiful parts of the aforementioned national park are around Chūzenji-ko lake, some 17km west of Nikkō, and the quieter resort of Yumoto, higher up in the mountains.

Outside the peak summer and autumn seasons, and with a very early start, it’s possible to see both Tōshō-gū and Chūzenji-ko in a long day-trip from Tokyo, but to get the most out of the journey it’s best to stay overnight. In contrast to most Japanese urban areas, the town is refreshingly quiet after dark: very little is open after 8pm, bar a couple of renegade bars and two convenience stores, allowing you to wander the town’s lanes unmolested by traffic or flashing lights, drinking in fresh air which remains clement all through the summer.

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SHIMODA

Highlights

Nikkō The dazzling shrine Tōshō-gū is the star turn of this cosy mountain town.

Chinatown, Yokohama Yokohama’s Chinatown – the largest in Japan – is a blast of bright colours, pungent smells and frenetic commercial life.

Kamakura Japan’s ancient seaside capital offers woodland walks between peaceful temples and bustling shrines, not to mention a giant bronze Buddha with a secretive smile.

Mount Fuji You don’t need to climb Fuji to admire its snowcapped form, but reaching the summit is a rewarding, once-in-a-lifetime challenge.

Hakone This premier onsen resort has traditional ryokan, a funicular and ropeway ride, plus a lovely lake you can sail across in a seventeenth-century-style galleon.

Shimoda Take a ride in a replica of one of the Black Ships that finally connected an isolationist Japan to the wider world.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

Brief history

Although Nikkō has been a holy place in both the Buddhist and Shintō religions for over a thousand years, its fortunes only took off with the death of Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1616. In his will, the shogun requested that a shrine be built here in his honour. However, the complex, completed in 1617, was deemed not nearly impressive enough by Ieyasu’s grandson, Tokugawa Iemitsu, who ordered work to begin on the elaborate decorative mausoleum seen today.

Iemitsu’s dazzling vision had an underlying purpose. The shogun wanted to stop rival lords amassing money of their own, so he ordered the daimyō to supply the materials for the shrine, and to pay the thousands of craftsmen. The mausoleum, Tōshō-gū, was completed in 1634 and the jury has been out on its over-the-top design ever since. Whatever you make of it, Tōshō-gū – along with the slightly more restrained Taiyūin-byō mausoleum of Iemitsu – is entirely successful at conveying the immense power and wealth of the Tokugawa dynasty.

Despite its popularity as a tourist destination today, barely a century ago Nikkō, in the wake of the Meiji Restoration, was running to seed. It was foreign diplomats and business people who began to favour it as a highland retreat from the heat of the Tokyo summer in the 1870s; the inevitable railway tethering to the capital was completed in 1890. Since then, thankfully, little has changed.

Shin-kyō

神橋 • Off Nihon Romantic Highway • Daily: April–Sept 8am–5pm; Oct to mid-Nov 8am–4pm; mid-Nov to March 9am–4pm • ¥300

At the top of Nikkō’s main street is the red-lacquered Shin-kyō, a bridge that is one of the town’s most famous landmarks. Legend has it that when the Buddhist priest Shōdō Shōnin visited Nikkō in the eighth century, he was helped across the Daiya-gawa at this very spot by the timely appearance of two snakes, which formed a bridge and then vanished. The original arched wooden structure first went up in 1636, but has been reconstructed many times since, most recently in 2005. There’s no need to pay the entrance fee, since the structure is clearly visible (and more photogenic) from the road.

Rinnō-ji

輪王寺 • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8am–4pm • ¥400, or ¥900 including Taiyūin Reibyō; Treasure House ¥300

North of Shin-kyō, an uphill pedestrian path works through gorgeous woodland; follow it up and you’ll soon emerge in front of the main compound of Rinnō-ji, a Tendai Buddhist temple founded in 766 by Shōdō Shōnin, whose statue stands on a rock at the entrance. The large, red-painted hall, Sanbutsu-dō, finally reopened in 2019 after a decade of renovation work; it houses three giant gilded statues (the thousand-handed Kannon, the Amida Buddha and the fearsome horse-headed Kannon), and it’s worth the entry fee to view these awe-inspiring figures from directly beneath their lotus-flower perches. Rinnō-ji’s Treasure House (宝物殿, Hōmotsuden), opposite the Sanbutsu-dō, has some interesting items on display, but its nicest feature is the attached Shōyō-en, an elegant garden with a strolling route around a small pond.

Tōshō-gū

東照宮 • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8am–4pm • ¥1300

Broad, tree-lined Omotesandō leads up to the main entrance to Tōshō-gū, just to the west of Rinnō-ji. You’ll pass under a giant stone torii (one of the few remaining features of the original 1617 shrine), while on the left is an impressive red and green five-storey pagoda, an 1819 reconstruction of a 1650 original, which burned down. Ahead is the Omote-mon gate, the entrance to the main shrine precincts.

Once inside, turn left to reach the Three Sacred Storehouses (Sanjinko) on the right and the Sacred Stables (Shinkyūsha) on the left, where you’ll spot Tōshō-gū’s most famous painted woodcarvings – the “hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil” monkeys, which represent the three major principles of Tendai Buddhism. The route leads to the steps up to the dazzling Yōmei-mon (Sun Blaze Gate), with its wildly ornate carvings, gilt and intricate decoration. A belfry and drum tower stand alone in front of the gate. Behind the drum tower is the Honji-dō. This small hall is part of Rinnō-ji temple and contains a ceiling painting of a “roaring dragon”; a priest will demonstrate how to make the dragon roar by standing beneath its head and clapping to create an echo.

Beyond the Yōmei-mon, just above the Sakashita-mon gate to the right of the inner precinct, the temple’s famed sleeping cat (nemuri neko) is usually accompanied by gawping crowds – you’d otherwise easily miss this minute, underwhelming carving. Two hundred stone steps lead uphill from the gate to the surprisingly unostentatious tomb of Ieyasu, which is set amid a glade of pines, and about the only corner of the shrine where tourists are generally absent.

Directly in front of the Yōmei-mon is the serene white and gold gate of Kara-mon, beyond which is the Haiden, or hall of worship. The side entrance to the hall is to the right of the gate; you’ll need to remove your shoes and stop taking photographs. Inside, you can walk down into the Honden, the shrine’s central hall, which is still decorated with its beautiful original paintwork.

NIKKŌ FESTIVALS

Every year, on May 18, the Grand Festival re-stages the spectacular burial of Ieyasu at Tōshō-gū, with a cast of over one thousand costumed priests and warriors taking part in a colourful procession through the shrine grounds, topped off with horseback archery. It’s well worth attending, as is its smaller-scale cousin (also called the Grand Festival) on October 17, which doesn’t have the archery and only lasts half a day, and the “Light Up Nikkō” event (end of Oct/beginning of Nov), during which the major temple buildings are illuminated at night to great effect.

Futarasan-jinja

二荒山神社 • Daily: April–Oct 8am–4.30pm; Nov–March 9am–3.30pm • Free; garden ¥200

After Tōshō-gū, the simple design of Futarasan-jinja comes as a relief to the senses. This shrine, originally established by the priest Shōdō Shōnin in 782, is the main one dedicated to the deity of Mount Nantai, the volcano whose eruption created nearby Chūzenji-ko. There are some good paintings of animals and birds on votive plaques in the shrine’s main hall, while the attached garden offers a quiet retreat, with a small teahouse serving matcha green tea and sweets. You can also inspect the bakemono tōrō, a “phantom lantern” made of bronze in 1292 and said to be possessed by demons.

Taiyūin Reibyō

大猷院霊廟 • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8am–4pm • ¥550, or ¥900 including Rinnō-ji

The charming Taiyūin Reibyō contains the mausoleum of the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, who died in 1651. This complex, hidden away on a hillside and surrounded by lofty pines, was deliberately designed to be less ostentatious than Tōshō-gū. Look out for the green god of wind and the red god of thunder in the alcoves behind the Futatsuten-no-mon gate, and the beautiful Kara-mon (Chinese-style gate) and fence surrounding the gold and black lacquer inner precincts – extremely photogenic, especially when dusk begins to encroach.

Tōshō-gū Museum of Art

東照宮美術館, Tōshō-gū Bijutsukan • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8am–4pm • ¥800

Tucked away behind Tōshō-gū, the Tōshō-gū Museum of Art – the former head office of the shrine – is set in a huge wooden mansion dating from 1928. Inside, the collection features an array of sliding doors and screens decorated by the top Japanese painters of the day; together, they constitute one of Japan’s most beautiful collections of such art.

Meiji-no-Yakata

明治の館 • Daily 24hr • Free

The pretty gardens of Meiji-no-Yakata were formerly the grounds of American trade representative F.W. Horne’s early twentieth-century holiday home. The various houses amid the trees are now fancy restaurants, but even if you don’t eat here, it’s worth wandering around to take in the sylvan setting.

Tamozawa Imperial Villa

田母沢御用邸記念公園, Tamozawa Goyōtei Kinen Kōen • Off Nihon Romantic Highway • 9am–4.30pm; closed Tues • ¥500

In stark contrast to Nikkō’s temples and shrines is the Zen-like simplicity of the beautifully restored Tamozawa Imperial Villa. This 106-room residence, surrounded by manicured gardens (including a 400-year-old weeping cherry tree), combines buildings of widely different heritage, some parts dating back to 1632. Three emperors have lived in it, including Akihito, who was evacuated here during World War II. As you stroll the corridors, take time to appreciate the intricate details and the gorgeous screen paintings.

Ganman-ga-fuchi abyss

含満ヶ淵 • Daily 24hr • Free

The wonderfully named Ganman-ga-fuchi abyss is a rocky little gorge cut through by a river that, while crystal-clear, can be a roaring beast after the rains. Accessed via a small path from the road, a delightful, easy-to-walk trail hugs the south side of the rocky river valley. Part of the walk is lined by the Narabi-jizō, a few dozen decaying stone statues of Jizō, the Buddhist saint of travellers and children. Sporting scarlet bibs and woven caps, and backed by forest, they make for an enchanting sight.

Yashio Onsen

やしおの湯, Yashio-no-Yu • 1726-4 Kiyotakiwanoshiro-machi • 10am–9pm; closed Thurs • ¥510 • 0288 53 6611

Nikkō’s municipal onsen, Yashio, is set a little way west of the town, and offers large communal baths and rotemburo (outdoor baths). It’s possible to walk here from central Nikkō if you have an hour to spare; the most pleasant route is via the Ganman-ga-fuchi abyss, after which you turn right onto the main road, then look for the signs.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NIKKŌ

Nikkō is accessible on two lines from Tokyo, which serve stations sitting almost side by side in the east of the town. The JR station is a real beauty, a historic wooden building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright; however, unless you’ve got a JR pass, the Tōbu line will generally be more convenient. Most people end up making use of a travel pass.

BY TŌBU TRAIN

The Tōbu-Nikkō line ( www.tobu.co.jp) runs from Tōbu-Asakusa Station, connected by tunnel to Asakusa subway station; an alternative access point for this line is Kita-Senju Station, at the end of the Hibiya line. There are two types of train to choose from: the regular local ones (2hr 30min–3hr 30min; ¥1360), or the fancier limited express “Spacia” or “Revalty” services (1hr 50min; ¥2700); on local trains you’ll need to change at Shimo-Imaichi (and probably a couple of other places, unless you’re travelling on the commuter-time expresses).

BY JR TRAIN

You can also reach Nikkō on JR trains but the fares are far higher (¥5370 each way if travelling with Shinkansen), so travelling this way only makes sense if you have a JR pass. The fastest route (around 2hr total) is by Shinkansen from either Tokyo or Ueno to Utsunomiya (宇都宮), where you change to the JR Nikkō line for a local train to the JR Nikkō terminus, just east of the Tōbu station.

INFORMATION

Tourist information The main tourist office, the Nikkō Kyōdo Centre, is on the main road from the station to the Tōshō-gū complex (daily 9am–5pm; 0288 54 2496, nikko-jp.org). If you’re planning on walking in the area, you can pick up the free Tourist Guide of Nikkō, which shows you all the hiking trails found within Nikkō National Park. There’s also an excellent information desk at the Tōbu-Nikkō Station (daily 8.30am–5pm; 0288 53 4511).

ATMs The main post office (Mon–Thurs 8.45am–6pm, Fri 8.45am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm) on the approach road to Tōshō-gū has an ATM which accepts foreign-issued cards, as do the town’s two Family Marts, but otherwise it’s difficult to use cards in Nikkō.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Nikkō has plenty of accommodation, and is the best base for the area. If you’re looking for a quieter environment, consider staying up at Chūzenji-ko or Yumoto. Rates at virtually all places are slightly higher in the peak seasons: August, from October to early November, and during major holidays. During these periods reservations are essential.

Nikkō Kanaya 日光金谷ホテル 1300 Kami-hatsuishi-machi 0288 54 0001, kanayahotel.co.jp. This charming heritage property, practically a museum piece, remains Nikkō’s top Western-style hotel, harking back to the glamorous days of early twentieth-century travel. There are some cheaper rooms with en-suite shower or just a toilet (the hotel has a communal bath) but for the full effect, splash out on the deluxe grade. Note that there’s another Kanaya up in Chuzenji-kō. ¥17,800

Nikkō Park Lodge 日光パークロッジ 11-6 Matsubara-chō & 2828-5 Tokorono 0288 53 1201, nikkoparklodge.com. This hostel has two locations in town: one right by the Tōbu station, and the other in a lovely spot high up on the north bank of the river – not terribly convenient, but it makes for a memorable stay. Vegan dinners are available. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥9000

Nikkō Senhime-Monogatari 日光千姫物語 6-48 Yasukawa-chō 0288 54 1010, senhime.co.jp. Large, highly comfortable option in the calm western side of town, boasting a mix of tatami and Western-style rooms, and charming bathing facilities. Their meals are also quite superb. ¥17,300

Nikkorisō Backpackers にっこり荘バックパカーズ 1107 Naka-hatsuishi-machi 0288 54 0535, nikkorisou.com. Housed in a building which looks like a giant school carpentry experiment, this amiable hostel has a delightful location near the river, and small but cosy rooms. Discounts kick in if you’re staying more than one night. Dorms ¥3000, twins ¥7000

TŌBU TRAVEL PASSES

Tōbu offers travel passes to foreigners, covering the return trip from Tokyo and transport around the Nikkō area. These tickets, which can only be bought at Tōbu stations, include the fare from Asakusa to Nikkō, unlimited use of local buses, and discounts on entrance charges at many of the area’s attractions. Cheapest are the two-day passes (¥2000 on local trains, ¥4320 on the express services); if you’re planning a trip out to Chūzenji-ko, it’s better to get a four-day pass (¥4520 April–Nov, ¥4150 Dec–March on local trains; ¥6840 April–Nov, ¥6470 Dec–March on express services).

Stay Nikkō ステーイ日光ゲストハウス 2-360-13 Inari-machi 0288 25 5303, staynikko.com. Presided over by a super-friendly (and English-speaking) Japanese-Thai couple, this place is a real winner. The main building only has four tatami rooms, all with shared facilities, making for an atmosphere halfway between a guesthouse and a homestay; they also have two new villas, suitable for families or small groups. The breakfasts (¥800) go down very well, and the peaceful riverside location is another bonus. Rooms ¥8800, villas ¥23,000

Turtle Inn Nikkō タートルイン日光 2-16 Takumi-chō 0288 53 3168, turtle-nikko.com. Popular pension run by an English-speaking family, in a quiet location next to the river. There are small, plain tatami rooms with common bathrooms, and en-suite Western-style rooms, plus a cosy lounge. Add ¥1080 for breakfast, and ¥2160 for the evening meal. They also run a fancier, slightly more expensive annexe, the Hotori-an, down the road beside the path to the Ganman-ga-fuchi abyss; it boasts a pottery shop on site, as well as a bath with forest views, and meals are taken at the Turtle Inn. ¥9600

EATING MAP

The Nikkō area’s culinary speciality is yuba-ryōri – milky, thin strips of tofu, usually rolled into tubes and cooked in various stews; this can be enjoyed at many local restaurants, but you may well be served it as part of meals at your accommodation. Note that most restaurants in town shut at around 8pm – the opening times listed here are the official ones, but can be more lax than stated.

Akinoya 晃のや 588 Gokō-machi 0288 25 7979. The best of the main road’s several noodle restaurants, serving various strains of yakisoba (fried soba) for ¥580–1080, including an unusual – and very spicy – tantan variety. The only drawback is that they close up rather early. Daily 11am–6pm.

Asian Garden アジアン ガーデン Opposite Tobu Nikkō Station 0288 542801. Indian restaurant with a good vegetarian set menu (¥950) and reasonably priced meat-based set meals from ¥1200. Lunch sets are also a bargain, at ¥800 and up. Daily 10am–11pm.

Gyōshintei 堯心亭 2339-1 Sannai 0288 53 3751. Sample exquisitely prepared shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) in a traditional tatami room, served by kimono-clad waitresses: lunches cost from ¥3000, dinners more like ¥5500, and some sets include fish. It’s part of the charming Meiji-no-Yakata complex, so you can gaze out on a lovely garden as you eat, then walk off the calories in and around the surrounding sights. 11.30am–7pm; closed Thurs.

Meiji-no-Yakata 明治の館 2339-1 Sannai 0288 53 3751. If you get to this charmingly nostalgic stone villa (once a Meiji-era holiday home) at around 10am, you can make a table reservation, then go sightseeing; come back when it opens at 11am, and treat yourself to the best coffee this side of Tokyo, plus some cheesecake (¥1080 will get you both), possibly after some clam chowder (¥700). With everything served by starched-shirted sorts, with fancy bowls and utensils, it’s a small price to pay for some luxury. Otherwise, go the whole hog with their mix of Japanese and Western staples – mains such as bouillabaisse or beef tongue stew start at ¥1500. Daily 11am–7.30pm.

Natural Saryo 自然茶寮廻 909-1 Nakahatsuishi-machi 0288 25 3122. Run by a husband-and-wife team, this true vegan café – also known as Megumi – has a great laidback atmosphere. Meals (¥1200–1800) use vegetables grown in their own garden, as well as local organic produce. You’ll also find some yummy dessert choices, mostly Western style (such as cakes), and plenty of fresh fruits. It’s a little hard to spot; look for the sign reading “Oriental Fine Art & Curios”. Usually daily 11.30am–6pm.

Yuba Zen 湯波巻 1007 Kamihatsuishi-machi 0288 53 3470. The best place to sample that local speciality, yuba-ryōri; sets including it as a main cost from ¥2000, or you can sample to the tofu (which is particularly fresh here) for just ¥600. They also have excellent tea on offer. 11am–7pm; closed Tues.

DRINKING MAP

Bar Dacite バー「デイサイト」 1300 Kami-hatsuishi-machi 0288 54 0001, kanayahotel.co.jp. The dark and cosy hotel bar at the swanky Nikkō Kanaya is the town’s best spot for a nightcap – not that there’s much competition. Cocktails suit the elegant atmosphere best, and the menu features some house specials. Daily 6–10.30pm.

Family Mart ファミリーマート 1-16 Yasukawa-chō. This convenience store may be a left-field drinking recommendation, but there are a few sound reasons behind it: first, its location – from the outdoor tables you’ll be able to hear the rushing river, and see the dark mountains behind; second, it has a splendid selection of boutique cup sake, including (if you’re in luck) an exceedingly tasty local brown-glass number, long served by appointment to Tōshō-gū; and finally, after a certain hour, it’s the only place in Nikkō you can go for a drink. Daily 24hr.

Murmur Beer Stand マービールスタンド 1013 Kamihatsuishi-machi, facebook.com/murmurbiiru. A great recent addition to Nikkō, this small bar sells craft beer – usually a dozen varieties thereof – brewed on the premises (¥500). Often good fun, but it’s worth noting that it can be closed at short notice; if it is, try the Bar de Nikkō immediately opposite, which is also pretty decent. Fri–Tues noon–10pm.

Chūzenji-ko

中禅寺湖

Some 10km west of Nikkō lies the tranquil lake of Chūzenji-ko, most famed for the dramatic Kegon Falls that flow from it. Buses from Nikkō run east along Route 120 and up the twisting, one-way road to reach CHŪZENJI, the lakeside resort. Both the lake and waterfalls were created thousands of years ago, when nearby Mount Nantai (男体山, Nantai-san; 2486m) erupted, its lava plugging the valley.

Many buses from Nikkō continue northwest of Chūzenji to terminate 45 minutes later at the onsen village of YUMOTO, which nestles cosily at the base of the mountains on the northern shore of lake Yuno-ko.

Kegon Falls

華厳の滝, Kegon-no-taki • Daily: Jan, Feb & Dec 9am–4.30pm; March, April & Nov 8am–5pm; May–Sept 7.30am–6pm; Oct 7.30am–5pm • Lift ¥550 return • kegon.jp

The best view of the Kegon Falls can be had from the viewing platform at their base. The lift to this vantage point lies east across the car park behind the Chūzenji bus station; don’t be put off by the queues of tour groups – a shorter line is reserved for independent travellers. The lift drops 100m through the rock to the base of the falls, from where you can see over a tonne of water per second cascading from the Ojiri River, which flows from the Chūzenji-ko lake.

Futarasan-jinja

二荒山神社 • Off Nihon Romantic Highway • 24hr • Temples free; Mount Nantai ¥500

This colourful shrine, around 1km west of the Kegon Falls along the shore of Chūzenji-ko, is the second Futarasan-jinja of the Nikkō area (the first is in Nikkō itself). The shrine, which once bore the name Chūzenji, has a pretty view of the lake, but is nothing extraordinary. There’s also a third Futarasan-jinja, on the actual summit of Mount Nantai; to reach it you’ll have to pay to climb the volcanic peak, which is owned by the shrine. The hike up is beautiful but takes around four hours, and should only be attempted in good weather; the tourist offices in Nikkō can provide maps.

Ryūzu Falls

竜頭の滝, Ryūzu -no-taki • Daily 24hr • Free • 0288 55 0388

Heading 6km west around Chūzenji-ko from Futarasan-jinja, on a gorgeous lakeside path, you’ll eventually spot the spectacular, 60m-high Ryūzu Falls, which boast clear views of the lake. At the base of the falls are several gift shops and noodle bars, one of which has a superb location overlooking the water as it gushes into the lake. Note that there’s also a great hiking route from here to Yumoto.

Yumoto

湯元

The village of YUMOTO nestles cosily at the base of the mountains on the northern shore of lake Yuno-ko, 15km northwest of Chūzenji-ko. A lovely way to take in the scenery is to rent a rowing boat at the lakeside Yumoto Rest House (¥1000 for 50min; May–Oct only). Alternatively, you could walk around the lake in about an hour.

Onsen-ji

温泉寺 • At the back of the village, 5min walk from the bus terminal • April–Nov daily 10am–2pm • ¥500

The small temple of Onsen-ji is notable for its onsen bath, which you can use. Nearby is Yu-no-daira, a field where bubbling water breaks through the ground – this is the source of the sulphur smell that hangs so pungently in the air. There’s a free footbath, great for soaking weary feet, near the Yumoto Hillside Inn.

MINAKAMI AND ADVENTURE SPORTS

The sprawling township of Minakami (水上), buried deep in the mountains of Gunma-ken, about 65km west of Nikkō, has become one of the hottest spots in Japan for adventure sports. No fewer than ten whitewater rafting companies, including Canyons ( 0278 72 2811, canyons.jp), offer trips down the Tone-gawa. Other activities include paragliding, canyoning, abseiling, rock-climbing and a wide variety of treks, including the ascent to the summit of Tanigawa-dake (谷川岳; 1977m). To relax after all this, you can head to Takaragawa onsen (宝川温泉; daily 9am–5pm; ¥1500 before 4pm, ¥1000 after 4pm; takaragawa.com), famous for its mixed-sex bathing (though it also has separated baths) and its four huge rotemburo.

To reach Minakami from Tokyo, take the Shinkansen (1hr; ¥5910) to Jōmō-Kōgen (上毛高原), from where the town is a 20min bus ride. The tourist office (daily 9am–5.15pm; 0278 72 2611, enjoy-minakami.com) is opposite the station. Places to stay include the Canyons-run Alpine Lodge (¥5000 per person, or less if also booking activities), which offers private rooms plus a lively bar; and the aforementioned Takaragawa onsen (from ¥21,600 per person).

Senjōgahara marshland plateau

戦場ヶ原

If you’re feeling energetic, it’s worth embarking on the easy and enjoyable 10km hike from Yumoto across the Senjōgahara marshland plateau, past two spectacular waterfalls and back to Chūzenji-ko. First, follow the west bank of Yuno-ko around to the steps down to the picturesque Yudaki Falls (湯滝). The trail continues along the Yu-gawa through shady woods before emerging beside the Izumiyado, a large pond and the start of a two-hour tramp across the raised walkways above the Senjōgahara marshland, which blooms with wild flowers during the summer. Roughly one hour further on, at the Akanuma junction, you can branch off back to the main road, or continue along the riverside path for thirty minutes to the main road and bridge overlooking the Ryūzu Falls (see above).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE CHŪZENJI-KO AND YUMOTO

By bus Buses up to Chūzenji-ko (¥1150 one-way) and on to Yumoto (¥1700) run at fairly frequent intervals from outside both of Nikkō’s train stations between 6am and 6pm, and usually take 45min, though travelling times can easily double – or even triple – during kōyō in mid-October, the prime time for viewing the changing autumn leaves, when traffic is bumper to bumper. If you haven’t bought a Tōbu pass, it’s still possible to save money on transport by buying a two-day bus pass at either train station; for unlimited return trips to Chūzenji-ko the cost is ¥2000, while to Yumoto it’s ¥3000.

ACCOMMODATION

Unfortunately, there’s little in the way of cheap accommodation in Yumoto, though searching online for specific dates often brings up one or two options in the ¥12,000 region – if you don’t have any luck with the international engines, try asking at a local tourist office.

Chūzenji Kanaya Hotel 中禅寺金谷ホテル 2482 Chugushi 0288 51 0001, kanayahotel.co.jp. The most luxurious place to stay on the lake, and affiliated to the eponymous hotel in Nikkō. It’s a couple of kilometres away from the tourist village, en route to the Ryūzu Falls, and has been especially designed to blend in with the woodland surroundings. ¥24,000

Narita

成田

Thanks to its international airport, NARITA is the first place most people hit when arriving in Japan. While the overwhelming majority of visitors scoot straight off to Tokyo without a second glance, Narita is actually a nice little town, a temporary or permanent home to many flight crews. For the casual visitor, there’s one fantastic sight: the enormous temple complex of Naritasan Shinshō-ji, which attracts more than ten million pilgrims each year.

Naritasan Shinshō-ji

成田山新勝寺 • Located at the end of Omotesandō • Daily 24hr • Free

The thousand-year-old temple of Naritasan Shinshō-ji is an important landmark in the Shingon sect of Buddhism. As long as you’re not here on one of the main festival days (New Year, and Setsubun on February 3 or 4), you’ll find that it doesn’t get crowded, such is its vast size. The colourful three-storey pagoda in front of the Great Main Hall dates from the eighteenth century and is decorated with fearsome gilded dragon heads snarling from under brightly painted rafters. Behind the main hall, the temple’s pretty gardens include a calligraphy museum, small forests and ornamental ponds.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NARITA

By train Narita is connected both to Ueno in Tokyo (every 30min; 1hr) and the airport (every 15min; 7min) by JR and Keisei trains, which arrive at separate stations a minute’s walk from each other and around a 15min walk from the temple.

Tourist information There’s a tourist information desk next to the JR station and at the Narita Tourist Pavilion on Omotesandō, the town’s main shopping street (Tues–Sun: Jan–May & Oct–Dec 9am–5pm; June–Sept 10am–6pm; www.nrtk.jp).

ACCOMMODATION

9 Hours ナインアワーズ成田空港 Narita Airport, Terminal 2 0476 33 5109, ninehours.co.jp. If you’ve a late arrival or early departure, this airport capsule hotel can save you heaps on a cab ride. Overnight ¥7900, “nap” ¥1350 for first 2hr then around ¥500 for each 1hr.

Jam House Kuu ジャムハウス空 Just west of the train stations 0476 33 3112, azure-guesthouse.com. Surprisingly stylish hostel whose private rooms are funky in the more pleasing sense of the word; the capsule-like dorms are a little more functional, but they certainly do the job. Dorms ¥3500, doubles ¥9000

EATING AND DRINKING

Jet Lag Club ジェットラッグクラブ 508 Kami-chō 0476 22 0280. Lively British-style pub popular with local expats and visiting flight crews. Cocktails are just ¥400 during the 4–8pm happy hour. Daily 4pm–2am.

Kikuya 菊屋 385 Naka-machi, opposite the Tourist Pavilion. Moderately fancy-looking restaurant, serving reasonably priced unagi (eel); with prices starting at around ¥2500 per portion, it’s far costlier than regular fish, though pretty standard for eel. Daily 10am–9pm.

Kawagoe

川越

The interesting old castle town of KAWAGOE lies just 40km north of Tokyo. Although it doesn’t look promising on arrival, Kawagoe’s compact area of sights, around 1km north of the main station, is aptly described as a “Little Edo”, and once you’ve browsed the many traditional craft shops and paused to sample the town’s culinary delights, you’ll probably find the day has flown by. On the third Saturday and Sunday of October Kawagoe hold its grand matsuri, one of the liveliest festivals in the Tokyo area, involving some 25 ornate floats (called dashi) and hundreds of costumed celebrants.

Kita-in

喜多院 • Around 500m east of Hon-Kawagoe Station • Palace daily 9am–4.30pm • Palace and Gohyaku Rakan ¥400 • 049 222 0859

Kawagoe’s major highlight is Kita-in, the main temple complex of the Tendai Buddhist sect. There’s been a temple on these grounds since 830, and it gained fame when the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, declared the head priest Tenkai Sōjō a “living Buddha”. Such was the reverence in which the priests here were held that, when the temple burnt down in 1638, the third shogun, Iemitsu, donated a secondary palace from Edo Castle (on the site of Tokyo’s present-day Imperial Palace) as a replacement building. This was dismantled and moved here piece by piece, and is now the only remaining structure from Edo Castle which survives anywhere. You have to pay an entry fee to view the palace part of the temple, but it’s well worth it. Serene gardens surround the palace and a covered wooden bridge leads across into the temple’s inner sanctum.

KURAZUKURI

Kawagoe’s fortunes owe everything to its strategic position on the Shingashi River and Kawagoe-kaidō, the ancient highway to the capital. If you wanted to get goods to Tokyo – then called Edo – they more than likely had to go via Kawagoe, and the town’s merchants prospered as a result, accumulating the cash to build fireproof kurazukuri, the black, two-storey shophouses for which the town is now famous. At one time there were over two hundred of these houses, but their earthen walls didn’t prove quite so effective against fire as hoped (nor were they much use in the face of Japan’s headlong rush to modernization). Even so, some thirty remain, with sixteen prime examples clustered together along Chūō-dōri, around 1km north of the JR and Tōbu stations.

The entry fee also includes access to the Gohyaku Rakan, a remarkable grove of stone statues. Although the name translates as “500 Rakans”, there are actually 538 of these enigmatic dwarf disciples of Buddha, and no two are alike.

Yamazaki Art Museum

山崎美術館, Yamazaki Bijutsuken • 9.30am–5pm; closed Wed & last 2 days of the month • ¥500 • 049 224 7114

Housed in the old Kameya okashi (sweet) shop, warehouse and factory, the Yamazaki Art Museum is dedicated to the works of Meiji-era artist Hashimoto Gahō. Some of his elegant screen paintings hang in the main gallery, while there are examples of the okashi once made here in the converted storehouses; entry includes tea and okashi.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KAWAGOE

By train Of the three train lines to Kawagoe, the fastest is the express on the Tōbu line from Ikebukuro (30min; ¥470); you can get off either at Kawagoe Station (which is also on the slower JR Saikyō line) or at Tōbu Kawagoe-shi, which is marginally closer to the town’s main road, Chūō-dōri, though it’s a less pleasant walk. Trains also run on the Seibu Shinjuku line from Shinjuku to Hon-Kawagoe Station; fastest and most direct are the Redarrow services (45min; ¥1000), while slow trains take 1hr (¥500).

Tourist office The staff at Kawagoe Station’s tourist office (daily 9am–4.30pm; 049 222 5556) can provide you with a map of the town and an English pamphlet on the sights.

EATING

Hatsuneya Garden いちのや 1-9-8 Moto-machi 049 222 2300. The most sophisticated of the town’s many cafés, with jazz pouring from the speakers, and a mix of locals and domestic tourists enjoying tea or matcha latte (each around ¥600). For a little extra you’ll be able to pair a drink with one of their desserts, including matcha tiramisu, served in a dinky wooden box. 11am–6pm; closed Tues.

Ichinoya いちのや 1-18-10 Matsue-chō. Local gourmands flock to Kawagoe for eel, most famously sampled at this venerable restaurant, where there are two floors of tatami rooms in which to scoff set courses (from ¥3500). Daily 9am–7pm.

Kotobukian 寿庵 Beside Kita-in. Entered under an easy-to-spot wooden tower near the temple, this is a great place for soba. The green seirosoba variety is particularly notable; try it served in a delightful stack of three plates (¥1080), or mixed with okra, nattō, seaweed and tempura shavings (¥1050). 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; closed Wed.

DRINKING

Cafe Elevato カフェエレバートと Chūō-dōri. Set in a rather imposing building that’s nevertheless very swish-looking on the inside, this is the best place in which to sample bottles of Coedo beer. Coedo is Kawagoe’s very own brew, which you’ll often find on sale in Tokyo. There are plenty of varities, including the awesome Beniaka red-rice number, which you can enjoy –prices from ¥750. Daily 11am–6pm; closed Wed.

Yokohama

横浜

On its southern borders Tokyo merges with YOKOHAMA, Japan’s second most populous city (home to 3.6 million people) and a major international port. Though essentially part of the same mega-conurbation, central Yokohama feels far more spacious and airier than central Tokyo, thanks to its open harbour frontage and generally low-rise skyline, and though it can’t claim any outstanding sights, the place has enough of interest to justify a day’s outing from Tokyo.

Locals are proud of their city’s international heritage, and there’s definitely a cosmopolitan flavour to the place, with its scattering of Western-style buildings, Chinese temples and world cuisines, and its sizeable foreign community. The upmarket suburb of Yamate (also known as “the Bluff”) is one of the city’s highlights and boasts a splendid museum; the area forms a pleasant contrast with the vibrant alleys, trinket shops and bustling restaurants of nearby Chinatown, the city’s other big draw.

Brief history

When Commodore Perry sailed his “Black Ships” into Tokyo Bay in 1853, Yokohama was a mere fishing village of some eighty houses on the distant shore. But it was this harbour, well out of harm’s way as far as the Japanese were concerned, that the shogun designated one of the five treaty ports open to foreign trade in 1858.

From the early 1860s until the first decades of the twentieth century, Yokohama flourished on the back of raw silk exports, a trade dominated by British merchants. During this period the city provided the main conduit for new ideas and inventions into Japan: the first bakery, photographers’, ice-cream shop, brewery and – perhaps most importantly – the first railway line, which linked today’s Sakuragi-chō with Shimbashi in central Tokyo in 1872. The Great Earthquake levelled the city in 1923, and it was devastated again in air raids at the end of World War II; the rebuilt city is, however, now among the world’s largest ports.

Motomachi and Yamate

元町 • 山手

The narrow, semi-pedestrianized shopping street of Motomachi exudes a faint retro flavour with its European facades. You’ll get more of the old Motomachi feel in the two streets to either side, particularly Naka-dōri (仲通), to the south, with its funky cafés and galleries.

At the northeast end of Motomachi, a wooded promontory marks the beginning of the Yamate district. The panoramic view from Harbour View Park is particularly beautiful at night; if you look really hard, just left of the double chimney stacks, you’ll see the Tokyo Skytree blinking away.

Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery

外国人墓地, Gaikokujin Bochi • 96 Yamate-chō • March–Dec Sat & Sun noon–4pm • ¥200 donation • 045 622 1311, yfgc-japan.com

Just a few minutes’ walk south of the Harbour View Park, you’ll likely happen upon the Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery, which sits on a west-facing hillside. Over 4500 people from more than forty countries are buried here, the vast majority either British or American.

Yamate Museum

山手博物館, Yamate Hakubutsukan • 254 Yamate-chō • Daily 11am–4pm • ¥210 • 045 622 1188

The tiny Yamate Museum is housed in the city’s oldest wooden building, erected in 1909. Exhibits focus on life in the area during the foreign-settlement period, and include a collection of cartoons from Japan Punch, a satirical magazine published here in the late nineteenth century. However, it’s the stunning building itself that’s the main draw.

Chinatown

中華街, Chūka-gai

Founded in 1863, Yokohama’s Chinatown is the largest in Japan: its streets contain roughly two hundred restaurants and over three hundred shops, while some eighteen million tourists pass through its narrow alleyways every year; few leave without tasting what’s on offer, from steaming savoury dumplings to a full-blown meal in one of the famous speciality restaurants.

Kantei-byō

関帝廟 • 140 Yamashita-chō • Daily 9am–7pm • Free; ¥500 to see main altar

The focus of community life is Kantei-byō, a shrine dedicated to Guan Yu, a former general and guardian deity of Chinatown. The building is a bit cramped, but impressive nonetheless, with a colourful ornamental gateway and writhing dragons wherever you look. You can pay to enter the main building to see the red-faced, long-haired Guan Yu, but it’s not really worth it.

The harbour

From the eastern edge of Chinatown it’s a short hop down to the harbour, which is fronted by Yamashita-kōen, a pleasant park created as a memorial to victims of the Great Earthquake. Here you can pick up a Sea Bass ferry or take a harbour cruise from the pier beside the Hikawa-maru. The 106m-high Marine Tower, built in 1961, is still the focal point of the area after all these years, but it’s better to save your money for the Landmark Tower’s much higher observation deck. Cruise ships pull up at Ōsanbashi pier to berth at the International Passenger Terminal, a beautifully fluid design inspired by ocean waves.

Hikawa-maru Museum

日本郵船氷川丸, Nikon Yūsen Hikowe maru • Off Yamashita-kōen • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥300 • 045 641 4362, nyk.com/rekishi

The Hikawa-maru, a retired passenger liner also known as the Queen of the Pacific, was built in 1930 for the NYK line Yokohama–Seattle service, though it was later commandeered as a hospital ship during World War II. It now serves as the Hikawa-maru Museum, with the ship done up to look as it did in its prime.

Minato Mirai 21

みなとみらい21 • minatomirai21.com

Occupying over two square kilometres of reclaimed land and disused dockyards, Minato Mirai 21, or MM21, is an ever-expanding mini-city of apartment blocks, offices, recreational and cultural facilities.

Yokohama Port Museum

横浜みなと博物館, Yokohama Minato Hakubutsukan • 2-1-1 Minatomirai • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥400 for museum or ship, ¥600 for both • nippon-maru.or.jp

Built in 1930, the Nippon-maru training sail ship saw service up until 1984 (during which time she sailed the equivalent of 45 times round the world) and now forms part of the enjoyable Yokohama Port Museum. You can explore the entire vessel, which has plenty of English labelling throughout.

Landmark Tower

横浜ランドマークタワー • 2-2-1 Minatomirai • Observation deck Daily 10am–9pm (Sat until 10pm) • ¥1000 • yokohama-landmark.jp

You can’t miss the awesome, 296m-tall Landmark Tower – Yokohama’s tallest building by far, and still ranked second countrywide. The Sky Garden observation deck is on its 69th floor, and on clear days, when Fuji is flaunting her beauty, the superb views more than justify the entry fee. You can also enjoy a coffee for about the same price in the opulent Sirius Sky Lounge, another floor up in the Royal Park Hotel, or splash out on an early evening cocktail as the city lights spread their magic.

YOKOHAMA SIGHTSEEING CRUISES

From Yamashita-kōen you can join the Marine Shuttle or Marine Rouge for a variety of sightseeing cruises around the harbour (from ¥1000 for 40min; yokohama-cruising.jp); the Marine Rouge also offers lunch and dinner cruises (¥2520 plus ¥5500–11,000 for food). In addition, the bigger and more luxurious Royal Wing cruise ship ( 045 662 6125, royalwing.co.jp) runs lunch, tea and dinner cruises from Ōsanbashi pier (¥1500–2500 plus ¥3000–5400 for food).

Yokohama Museum of Art

横浜美術館, Yokohama Bijutsukan • 3-4-1 Minatomirai • 10am–6pm; closed Thurs • ¥1100; varying prices for special exhibitions • 045 221 0300, yokohama.art.museum

The highlight of the MM21 area is the splendid Yokohama Museum of Art, which is filled with mostly twentieth-century works of Japanese and Western art. Such refinement is set off to fine effect by designer Tange Kenzō’s cool, grey space, which grabs your attention as much as the exhibits.

Shinkō island

新港

Between MM21 and Ōsanbashi is Shinkō island, which was reclaimed about a hundred years ago as part of Yokohama’s then state-of-the-art port facilities. There are a few interesting things to see here, including a huge Ferris wheel, and an even huger spa complex; on the eastern side of the island, two handsome red-brick warehouses dating from 1911 now form the attractive Akarenga shopping, dining and entertainment complex.

Cosmo Clock 21

コスモクロック21 • 2-8-1 Shinkō • Mon–Fri 11am–9pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm; occasionally closed Thurs • ¥700

The slowly revolving Cosmo Clock 21 is one of the world’s largest Ferris wheels, with a diameter of 112m; one circuit takes around fifteen minutes, allowing plenty of time to enjoy the view, which is particularly spectacular at night. The clock’s changing colours provide a night-time spectacle in their own right.

Manyō Club

万葉倶楽部, Manyō Kaiabu • 2-7-1 Shinkō • Daily 10am–9pm • ¥2700 • 045 663 4126

Spread over five floors, the Manyō Club spa complex offers a variety of hot-spring baths – the water is trucked in from Atami onsen down the coast – in addition to massages and treatments, restaurants and relaxation rooms. The rooftop is one of the best places from which to admire the night-time colour display of the Cosmo Clock.

Cup Noodle Museum

カップヌードルミュージアム • 2-3-4 Shinkō • 10am–6pm; closed Tues • ¥500 • 045 345 0825, cupnoodles-museum.jp

Instant noodles are one of Asia’s most important snacks, and the contribution made since 1971 by the Japanese Cup Noodle brand is traced in the fun, beautifully designed Cup Noodle Museum. There are all sorts of interactive displays, though for many the main sources of enjoyment are sampling some of the many Cup Noodle varieties, and purchasing quirky branded souvenirs.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YOKOHAMA

Located on the northwest side of town, Yokohama Station functions as the city’s main transport hub, offering train, subway, bus and even ferry connections, and featuring several gargantuan department stores.

BY TRAIN AND SUBWAY

From Shibuya The fast Tōkyū-Tōyoko line runs via Nakameguro, calling at Yokohama Station (every 5–10min; 30min; ¥270) before heading off underground to Minato Mirai and terminating at Motomachi-Chūkagai Station. Some services actually start life way back in Saitama prefecture as Fukutoshin metro trains, stopping at Ikebukuro and Shinjuku-sanchōme stations before switching identity in Shibuya, then again in Yokohama. JR’s Shōnan-Shinjuku line runs into Yokohama Station from Shibuya (every 20–30min; 25min; ¥390) and Shinjuku.

From Tokyo Station You can choose from the Tōkaidō or Yokosuka lines (both every 5–10min; 30min; ¥470), or the Keihin-Tōhoku line (every 5–10min; 40min; ¥470). All three are JR lines; the first two terminate at Yokohama Station, while the latter continues to Sakuragichō, Kannai and Ishikawachō.

From Narita Airport A few services on JR’s Narita Express (N’EX) run to Yokohama Station (hourly; 1hr 30min; ¥4290), but some of these divide at Tokyo Station, so check before you get on. Otherwise, you can take the cheaper JR rapid train (2hr; ¥1940).

From Haneda Airport Keihin-Kyūkō line trains run frequently to Yokohama Station (every 10min; 30min; ¥450), or there are limousine buses (every 10min; 30min; ¥580).

From Shin-Yokohama Shinkansen trains pause briefly at Shin-Yokohama, 5km north of the centre. From here there’s a subway link to the main Yokohama Station (11min; ¥240), Sakuragichō and Kannai, but for Yokohama station it’s cheaper to get the first passing JR Yokohama-line train (¥170).

BY FERRY

Ferries to and from Ōshima (departing 11.20pm Fri & Sat, returning 2.30pm Sat & Sun; 6hr 30min out, 3hr 30min back; ¥4270) call at Ōsanbashi pier, a short walk from the city centre.

BY BUS

Services head around the country from the depot at Yokohama train station, which is actually made up of two terminals – you may have to ask at a tourist information point for the best one to your destination at any given time.

Destinations Hiroshima (1 daily; 11hr); Kyoto (4 daily; 6hr 30min–9hr); Nagoya (1 daily; 7hr 30min); Nara (1 daily; 7hr); Osaka (4 daily; 7–8hr).

GETTING AROUND

By train Getting around central Yokohama is easy on either the Tōkyū-Tōyoko line or the JR Negishi line (the local name for Keihin-Tōhoku trains). Trains on both lines run every 5min.

By subway A subway line connects Kannai and stations north to Shin-Yokohama, on the Shinkansen line; it’s bisected by another line which few travellers will end up using. Services on both run every 5–15min.

By Akai Kutsu sightseeing bus A retro-style sightseeing bus runs from outside Sakuragichō Station’s east exit via Minato Mirai, the Akarenga complex, Chinatown and Yamashita-kōen to Harbour View Park, then loops back via Ōsanbashi pier. Services run every 10–15min (¥220 per hop, or ¥500 for a day-pass).

By ferry Perhaps the most enjoyable way of getting about the city is on the Sea Bass ferries ( yokohama-cruising.jp) that shuttle between Yokohama Station (from a pier in the Bay Quarter shopping complex) and southerly Yamashita-kōen, with some services stopping at Minato Mirai and Akarenga en route. There are departures every 15min (daily 10am–7.30pm; ¥350–700).

INFORMATION

Tourist information The most useful centre (daily: April–Nov 9am–6pm; Dec–March 9am–7pm; 045 211 0111) is immediately outside Sakuragichō Station’s east entrance, but there’s another in the harbourfront Sanbo Centre (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; 045 641 4759), east of Kannai Station. There’s also a booth in the underground concourse at Yokohama Station (daily 9am–7pm; 045 441 7300).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Edit ホテルエヂット 6-78-1 Sumiyoshi-chō, Naka-ku 045 680 0238, hotel-edit.com. With its pleasing modern flourishes and winning location, this business hotel is excellent value, with rooms cheaper – and often more stylish – than anything else in this category. ¥7800

Navios Yokohama ナヴィオス横浜 Shinkō-chō, Naka-ku 045 633 6000, navios-yokohama.com. One of the best-value options in Yokohama, with rooms frequently discounted from the rack rates; ask for one facing the Landmark Tower for terrific night-time views. Western-style doubles ¥15,000, Japanese-style doubles ¥19,000

New Grand ホテルニューグランド 10 Yamashita-chō, Naka-ku 045 681 1841, hotel-newgrand.co.jp. Built in the late 1920s in European style, the main building of this upmarket hotel retains some of its original elegance, while many rooms in the newer tower offer bay views. ¥50,000

Royal Park Hotel ローヤルパークホテル 2-2-1-3 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku 045 221 1111, yrph.com. This hotel occupies the 52nd to 67th floors of the Landmark Tower, so spectacular views are guaranteed. Rooms are fairly spacious and come with good-sized bathrooms. As well as a fitness club and swimming pool (extra charges apply), facilities include a tea ceremony room and the Sirius Sky Lounge. ¥30,000

Yokohama Central Hostel 横浜セントラルホステル 222 Yamashita-chō, Naka-ku 045 663 1890, ychostel.com. Just a few minutes on foot from Chinatown, this is the best of Yokohama’s several hostel options. The tatami common area is appealingly rustic, though the dorms themselves feel modern and spacious. Dorms ¥2000

EATING MAP

One of Yokohama’s highlights is sampling the enormous variety of restaurants and snack-food outlets cramming the streets of Chinatown; most are much of a muchness, selling the same food in all-you-can-eat form. In fine weather, the casual little eating places on the ground floor of Akarenga are a good option.

RESTAURANTS

Bairan 梅蘭 133-10 Yamashita-chō 045 651 6695, bairan.jp. Small, unpretentious restaurant tucked in the backstreets and known for its Bairan yakisoba, stir-fried noodles served like a sort of pie, crispy on the outside and with various varieties of juicy stuffing (from ¥940). Mon–Fri 11.30am–3pm & 5–10pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm.

Chano-ma チャノマ 3F Akarenga 2, 1-1-2 Shinkō, Naka-ku 045 650 8228. Sit back with a cocktail and nibble modern Japanese dishes at this large, relaxed restaurant-tearoom – a sister of the one in Tokyo – with a very contemporary vibe. Lunch sets from ¥1400. Mon–Thurs & Sun 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–5am.

Manchinrō 萬珍樓 153 Yamashita-chō 045 681 4004, manchinro.com. This famous restaurant has been serving tasty Cantonese cuisine since 1892. Though prices are on the high side, the portions are generous; noodle and fried-rice dishes start at around ¥1600, lunch sets at ¥2400, and evening course menus at ¥5000. If these are beyond your budget, try the yummy steamed dumplings on sale from a hatch out from (¥300). Daily 11am–10pm.

Shōfukumon 招福門 81-3 Yamashita-chō 045 664 4141. Multistorey restaurant offering all-you-can-eat dim sum deals for ¥3000, plus fried rice and soup; touristy, but enjoyable. Mon–Fri 11.30am–10pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm.

Yamate Jūbankan 山手十番館 247 Yamate-chō 045 621 4466. Pleasant French restaurant in a pretty clapboard house opposite the Foreigners’ Cemetery. The upstairs is on the formal side, with lunch like John Dory in butter sauce (¥1600) or beef tongue stew (¥2400), and expensive dinner sets (¥5000); the more casual ground floor offers desserts (¥750), and in July and August the restaurant runs a popular beer garden. Daily 11.30am–9pm.

CAFÉS AND TEAROOMS

Café de la Presse カフェードゥラプレス 2F Media Centre Building, 11 Nihon-dōri 045 222 3348. Viennese-style café in the corner of one of Yokohama’s grand old buildings. Go for a coffee or tea (from ¥480), with a dessert such as macaroons or their utterly delectable crème brûlée (¥600). They also serve croques monsieur (¥800), and other sandwiches and light meals. Tues–Sun 10am–8pm.

Enokitei えの木てい 89-6 Yamate-chō 045 623 2288. Set in a venerable Yamate former residence, this cute English-style tearoom serves tea (¥600–700) and home-made cakes (¥380–620); get them with some dainty sandwiches in the full afternoon tea set. Tues–Fri 11am–7pm.

Ryokuen 緑苑 220 Yamashita-chō 045 651 5651. Simple, stylish Chinese teashop with some thirty types of tea on the menu, from ¥1200–2000 for a pot. 11.30am–6.30pm; closed Thurs.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

254BeeR 5-12-107 Yoshida-machi, Naka-ku 045 517 2310, facebook.com/254beer29by. Almost brand new at the time of writing, this brewpub offers a small but tasty range of their own brews and izakaya-like snacks and meals. If only they stayed open a little longer, at least on weekends. Tues–Fri 4–11pm, Sat 3–11pm, Sun 3–10pm.

Motion Blue モーションブルー 3F Akarenga 2, 1-1-2 Shinkō, Naka-ku 045 226 1919. This cool jazz club attracts top acts – for which you’ll usually pay top prices (though there are regular free performances, too). There’s no charge, though, to park yourself at the attached bar’s long counter and soak up the ambience. It makes for a great way to pass an evening. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat & Sun 11am–1.30pm & 5pm–midnight.

Kamakura and around

鎌倉

The small, relaxed town of KAMAKURA lies an hour’s train ride south of Tokyo, trapped between the sea and a circle of wooded hills. The town is steeped in history, and many of its 65 temples and 19 shrines date back some eight centuries, when, for a brief and tumultuous period, it was Japan’s political and military centre. Its most famous sight is the Daibutsu, a glorious bronze Buddha surrounded by trees, but the town’s ancient Zen temples are equally compelling. Kamakura’s prime sights can be covered on a day-trip from Tokyo, but the town more than justifies an overnight visit, allowing you time to explore the enchanting temples of east Kamakura and follow one of the gentle “hiking courses” up into the hills, or head out west to Enoshima and its own clutch of appealing sights.

Brief history

In 1185 the warlord Minamoto Yoritomo became the first permanent shogun and the effective ruler of Japan. Seven years later he established his military government – known as the bakufu, or “tent government” – in Kamakura. Over the next century, dozens of grand monuments were built here, notably the great Zen temples founded by monks fleeing Song-dynasty China. Zen Buddhism flourished under the patronage of a warrior class who shared similar ideals of devotion to duty and rigorous self-discipline.

The Minamoto rule was brief and violent. Almost immediately, Yoritomo turned against his valiant younger brother, Yoshitsune, who had led the clan’s armies, and hounded him until Yoshitsune committed ritual suicide (seppuku) – a favourite tale of kabuki theatre. Both the second and third Minamoto shoguns were murdered, and in 1219 power passed to the Hōjō clan, who ruled as fairly able regents behind puppet shoguns. Their downfall followed the Mongol invasions in the late thirteenth century, and in 1333 Emperor Go-Daigo wrested power back to Kyoto; as the imperial armies approached Kamakura, the last Hōjō regent and an estimated eight hundred retainers committed seppuku. Kamakura remained an important military centre before fading into obscurity in the late fifteenth century. Its temples, however, continued to attract religious pilgrims until Kamakura was “rediscovered” in the last century as a tourist destination and a desirable residential area within commuting distance of Tokyo.

Kita-Kamakura

北鎌倉

As the Tokyo train nears Kita-Kamakura Station, urban sprawl gradually gives way to the gentle, forested hills that provide the backdrop for some of Kamakura’s greatest Zen temples. Chief among these are Kenchō-ji and the wonderfully atmospheric Engaku-ji. It takes over an hour to cover the prime sights, walking south along the main road, the Kamakura-kaidō, to the edge of central Kamakura. If you have more time, follow the Daibutsu Hiking Course up into the western hills.

Engaku-ji

円覚寺 • 409 Yama-no-uchi • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8am–4pm • ¥300; Butsunichi-an ¥100, or ¥650 including tea

The second most important – but most satisfying – of Kamakura’s major Zen temples, Engaku-ji lies buried among ancient cedars just two minutes’ walk east of Kita-Kamakura Station. It was founded in 1282 to honour victims (on both sides) of the ultimately unsuccessful Mongolian invasions in 1274 and 1281. The layout follows a traditional Chinese Zen formula – a pond and bridge (now cut off by the train tracks), followed by a succession of somewhat austere buildings – but the encroaching trees and secretive gardens add a gentler touch.

KAMAKURA THROUGH THE YEAR

The town’s biggest festivals take place in early April (second Sun to third or fourth Sun) and mid-September, including displays of horseback archery and costume parades, though the summer fireworks display (second Tues in Aug) over Sugami Bay is the most spectacular event.

Kamakura is also well known for its spring blossoms and autumn colours, while many temple gardens are famous for a particular flower – for example, Japanese apricot at Zuisen-ji and Tōkei-ji (Feb) and hydrangea at Meigetsu-in (mid-June).

The first building inside the compound is Engaku-ji’s two-storey main gate, San-mon, a magnificent structure rebuilt in 1783. Beyond, the modern Butsu-den (Buddha Hall) houses the temple’s primary Buddha image, haloed in soft light, while behind it the charming Shari-den lies tucked off to the left past an oblong pond. This small reliquary, usually closed to visitors, is said to contain a tooth of the Buddha brought here from China in the early thirteenth century. It’s also considered Japan’s finest example of Song-dynasty Zen architecture, albeit a sixteenth-century replica. The main path continues gently uphill to another pretty thatched building, Butsunichi-an, where regent Hōjō Tokimune was buried in 1284; in fine weather tea is served in its attractive garden. Finally, you’ll come to tiny Ōbai-in, which enshrines a pale yellow Kannon statue, but its best attribute is a nicely informal garden.

On the way out, follow signs up a steep flight of steps to the left of San-mon to find Kamakura’s biggest bell, Ōgane, forged in 1301 and an impressive 2.5m tall; the adjacent teahouse, Bentendō , is a great place to relax.

ZAZEN

Zazen, or sitting meditation, is a crucial aspect of Zen Buddhist training, particularly among followers of the Rinzai sect. Several temples in Kamakura hold public zazen sessions at various levels, of which the most accessible are those at Engaku-ji (April–Oct daily 5.30am; Nov–March daily 6am; plus second and fourth Sun of month at 10am; 0467 22 0478) and Kenchō-ji (Fri & Sat 5pm in the Hōjō; 0467 22 0981). These hour-long sessions are free and no reservations are required, though it’s best to check the current schedule with the temple or Kamakura tourist office before setting out, and you should get there at least fifteen minutes early. Though non-Japanese speakers are welcome, you’ll get much more out of it if you have someone with you who can translate.

Tōkei-ji

東慶寺 • 1367 Yama-no-uchi • Daily: March–Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–Feb 8.30am–4pm • ¥200 • Treasure House Tues–Sun 9.30am–3.30pm • ¥300 • tokeiji.com

A short walk along the main road from Engaku-ji, Tōkei-ji was founded as a nunnery in 1285 by the young widow of Hōjō Tokimune. The intimate temple boasts a pleasing cluster of buildings and a profusion of flowers at almost any time of year: Japanese apricot in February, magnolia and peach in late March, followed by peonies and then irises in early June; September is the season for cascades of bush clover. There’s an elegant café just downhill from the entrance, and the start of the wonderful Daibutsu Hiking Course is also nearby.

Tōkei-ji is more popularly known as the “Divorce Temple”. Up until the mid-nineteenth century, when women were given the legal right to seek divorce, this was one of the few places where wives could escape domestic ill-treatment. If they reached the sanctuary, which many didn’t, they automatically received a divorce after three years according to traditional temple law. Husbands could be summoned to resolve the dispute or, ultimately, sign the divorce papers. Some of these documents are preserved in the Treasure House, including two books detailing the women’s reasons for seeking sanctuary – unfortunately, not translated.

Kenchō-ji

建長寺 • 8 Yama-no-uchi • Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥300 • kenchoji.com

The greatest of Kamakura’s Zen temples is Kenchō-ji, headquarters of the Rinzai sect and Japan’s oldest Zen training monastery. More formal than Engaku-ji and a lot less peaceful, largely because of the neighbouring high school, Kenchō-ji contains several important buildings, most of which have been relocated here from Tokyo and Kyoto to replace those lost since the temple’s foundation in 1253. The design of the layout shows a strong Chinese influence; the founding abbot was another Song Chinese émigré, in this case working under the patronage of Hōjō Tokiyori, the devout fifth regent and father of Engaku-ji’s Tokimune.

The main complex

The main complex begins with the towering, copper-roofed San-mon, an eighteenth-century reconstruction, to the right of which hangs the original temple bell, cast in 1255 and considered one of Japan’s most beautiful. Beyond San-mon, a grove of gnarled and twisted juniper trees hides the dainty, nicely dilapidated Butsu-den. The main image is, unusually, of Jizō (the guardian deity of children) seated on a lotus throne, his bright, half-closed eyes piercing the gloom. Behind is the Hattō, or lecture hall, one of Japan’s largest wooden Buddhist buildings. The curvaceous Chinese-style gate, Kara-mon, and the Hōjō hall beyond are much more attractive structures. Walk round the latter’s balcony to find a pond-garden generally attributed to a thirteenth-century monk, making it Japan’s oldest-surviving Zen garden.

Central Kamakura

Modern Kamakura revolves around the central Kamakura Station and a couple of touristy streets leading to the town’s most important shrine, Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. The traditional approach to this grand edifice lies along Wakamiya-ōji, which runs straight from the sea to the shrine entrance. Shops here peddle a motley collection of souvenirs and crafts, the most famous of which is kamakura-bori, an 800-year-old method of laying lacquer over carved wood. More popular, however, is hato, a French-style biscuit first made by Toshimaya bakers a century ago. Shadowing Wakamiya-ōji to the west is Komachi-dōri, a narrow, pedestrian-only shopping street, packed with more souvenir shops, restaurants and, increasingly, trendy boutiques.

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

鶴岡八幡宮 • 2-1-31 Yuki-no-shita • Daily 6am–8.30pm • Free

A majestic, vermilion-lacquered torii marks the front entrance to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, the Minamoto clan’s guardian shrine since 1063. Hachiman-gū, as it’s popularly known, was moved to its present site in 1191, since when it has witnessed some of the more unsavoury episodes of Kamakura history. Most of the present buildings date from the early nineteenth century, and their striking red paintwork, combined with the parade of souvenir stalls and the constant bustle of people, creates a festive atmosphere in sharp contrast to that of Kamakura’s more secluded Zen temples.

Three humpback bridges lead into the shrine compound between two connected ponds known as Genpei-ike. These were designed by Minamoto Yoritomo’s wife, Hōjō Masako, and are full of heavy, complicated symbolism, anticipating the longed-for victory of her husband’s clan over their bitter enemies, the Taira; strangely, the bloodthirsty Masako was of Taira stock.

The Mai-den

The Mai-den, an open-sided stage at the end of a broad avenue, was the scene of an unhappy event in 1186, when Yoritomo forced his brother’s mistress, Shizuka, to dance for the assembled samurai. Yoritomo wanted his popular brother, Yoshitsune, killed, and was holding Shizuka prisoner in the hope of discovering his whereabouts; instead, she made a defiant declaration of love and only narrowly escaped death herself, though her newborn son was murdered soon after. Her bravery is commemorated with classical dances and nō plays during the shrine festival (Sept 14–16), which also features demonstrations of horseback archery on the final day.

The main shrine

Beyond the Mai-den, a long flight of steps leads up beside a knobbly, ancient ginkgo tree, reputedly 1000 years old and scene of the third shogun’s murder by his vengeful nephew, to the main shrine. It’s an attractive collection of buildings set among trees, though, as with all Shintō shrines, you can only peer in. Appropriately, the principal deity, Hachiman, is the God of War.

East Kamakura

The eastern side of Kamakura contains a scattering of less-visited shrines and temples, including two of the town’s most enchanting corners. It’s possible to cover the area on foot in a half-day, or less if you hop on a bus for the return journey.

Hōkoku-ji

報国寺 • 2-7-4 Jomyoji • Daily 9am–4pm • Bamboo gardens ¥200

The well-tended gardens and simple wooden buildings of Hōkoku-ji, or Take-dera – the “Bamboo Temple” – are attractive in themselves, but the temple is best known for a grove of evergreen bamboo protected by the encircling cliffs. This dappled forest of thick, gently curved stems, where tinkling water spouts and the soft creaking of the wind-rocked canes muffle the outside world, would seem the perfect place for the monks’ meditation. Too soon, though, the path emerges beside the manicured rear garden, which was created by the temple’s founding priest in the thirteenth century.

KAMAKURA HIKING COURSES

There are two extremely pleasant hiking courses to tackle in central Kamakura, both giving you the chance to enjoy some lovely wooded scenery. The hikes, while a decent workout, are both pretty straightforward and quite possible to do in flip-flops (though trickier if it has been raining).

DAIBUTSU HIKING COURSE

Past Tōkei-ji (東慶寺) and along the main valley is Jōchi-ji (浄智寺), beside which you’ll find steps which mark the start of the Daibutsu Hiking Course (大仏ハイキングコース). This meandering 2.2km-long ridgetop path makes an enjoyable approach to the Daibutsu, Hase’s Great Buddha. Even if you’re not walking the whole route it’s well worth going as far as the captivating cave-shrine dedicated to the goddess Zeniarai Benten (銭洗弁天), the “Money-Washing Benten”, an incarnation of the goddess of good fortune, music and water. To find it, follow the somewhat erratic signs from Genjiyama-kōen (源氏山公園), a pleasant park, which lead you along a trail heading vaguely south through the park to a road junction where the main trail turns right; here, you’ll pick up signs pointing steeply downhill to where a torii and banners mark the Zeniarai Benten shrine entrance. Duck under the tunnel to emerge in a natural amphitheatre filled with a forest of torii wreathed in incense and candle smoke. According to tradition, money washed in the spring, which gushes out of a cave on the opposite side from the entrance, is guaranteed to double at the very least, though not immediately.

If you’re following the Daibutsu Hiking Course all the way to Hase, then rather than retracing your steps, take the path heading south under a tunnel of tightly packed torii, zigzagging down to the valley bottom. Turn right at a T-junction to find another avenue of vermilion torii leading uphill deep into the cryptomeria forest. At the end lies a simple shrine, Sasuke Inari-jinja (佐助稲荷神社), which dates from before the twelfth century and is dedicated to the god of harvests. His messenger is the fox; as you head up the steep path behind, to the left of the shrine buildings, climbing over tangled roots, you’ll find fox statues of all shapes and sizes peering out of the surrounding gloom. At the top, turn right and then left at a white signboard to pick up the hiking course for the final 1.5km to the Daibutsu.

TEN’EN HIKING COURSE

The Ten’en Hiking Course (天園ハイキングコース) begins just behind the Hōjō in Kenchō-ji; the path heads up the steep steps past Hansōbō, a shrine guarded by statues of long-nosed, mythical tengu. It takes roughly one and a half hours to complete the 5km trail, which loops round the town’s northeast outskirts to Zuisen-ji; for a shorter walk (2.5km), you can cut down earlier to Kamakura-gū. This trail is less busy than the Daibutsu course, and even on a sunny weekend, it’s quite possible to find yourself alone in the forest for decent periods of time.

Sugimoto-dera

杉本寺 • 903 Nikaido • Daily 8am–4.30pm • ¥200

One of Kamakura’s oldest temples, Sugimoto-dera is set at the top of a steep, foot-worn staircase lined with fluttering white flags. Standing in a woodland clearing, the small, thatched temple, founded in 734, exudes a real sense of history. Inside its smoke-blackened hall, spattered with pilgrims’ prayer stickers, you can slip off your shoes and take a look behind the altar at the three wooden statues of Jūichimen Kannon, the eleven-faced Goddess of Mercy. The images were carved at different times by famous monks, but all three are at least 1000 years old. According to legend, they survived a devastating fire in 1189 by taking shelter – all by themselves – behind a giant tree; since then the temple has been known as Sugimoto (“Under the Cedar”).

Kamakura-gū

鎌倉宮 • 154 Nikaido • Daily 9am–4pm • ¥300

Mainly of interest for its history and torchlight nō dramas in early October, Kamakura-gū was founded by Emperor Meiji in 1869 to encourage support for his new imperial regime. The shrine is dedicated to Prince Morinaga, a forgotten fourteenth-century hero who helped briefly restore his father, Emperor Go-Daigo, to the throne. The prince was soon denounced, however, by power-hungry rivals and held for nine months in a Kamakura cave before being executed. The small cave and a desultory treasure house lie to the rear of the classically styled shrine, but don’t really justify the entry fee.

A road heading north from Kamakura-gū marks the beginning – or end – of the short cut to the Ten’en Hiking Course.

Zuisen-ji

瑞泉寺 • 710 Nikaido • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥200

Starting point of the main trail of the Ten’en Hiking Course, Zuisen-ji’s quiet, wooded location and luxuriant gardens make it an attractive spot, though the temple’s fourteenth-century Zen garden, to the rear of the main building, is rather dilapidated.

Hase

長谷

The west side of Kamakura, an area known as Hase, is home to the town’s most famous sight, the Daibutsu (Great Buddha), cast in bronze nearly 750 years ago. On the way, it’s worth visiting Hase-dera to see an image of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, which is said to be Japan’s largest wooden statue. Both these sights are within walking distance of Hase Station, three stops from Kamakura Station on the private Enoden line.

Hase-dera

長谷寺 • Daily: March–Sept 8am–5.30pm; Oct–Feb 8am–5pm • ¥400 • www.hasedera.jp • Hase Station

Hase-dera stands high on the hillside a few minutes’ walk north of Hase Station, with good views of Kamakura and across Yuigahama beach to the Miura peninsula beyond. Though the temple’s present layout dates from the mid-thirteenth century, according to legend it was founded in 736, when a wooden eleven-faced Kannon was washed ashore nearby. The statue is supposedly one of a pair carved from a single camphor tree in 721 by a monk in the original Hase, near Nara; he placed one Kannon in a local temple and pushed the other out to sea.

Nowadays the Kamakura Kannon – just over 9m tall and gleaming with gold leaf (a fourteenth-century embellishment) – resides in an attractive, chocolate-brown and cream building at the top of the temple steps. This central hall is flanked by two smaller buildings: the right hall houses a large Amidha Buddha carved in 1189 for Minamoto Yoritomo’s 42nd birthday to ward off the bad luck traditionally associated with that age; the one on the left shelters a copy of an early fifteenth-century statue of Daikoku-ten, the cheerful God of Wealth. The real statue is in the small treasure hall immediately behind, alongside the original temple bell, cast in 1264. The next building along is the Sutra Repository, where a revolving drum contains a complete set of Buddhist scriptures – one turn of the wheel is equivalent to reading the whole lot. In the far northern corner of the complex, a cave contains statues of the goddess Benten and her sixteen children, or disciples, though it can’t compete with the atmospheric setting of the Zeniarai Benten cave-shrine.

Ranks of jizō statues are a common sight in Hase-dera, some clutching sweets or “windmills” and wrapped in tiny woollen mufflers; these sad little figures commemorate stillborn or aborted children.

Getty Images

HAKONE

The Daibutsu

大仏 • 4-2-28 Hase • Daily: April–Sept 7am–6pm; Oct–March 7am–5.30pm • ¥200 • Entering statue Daily 8am–4.30pm • ¥20

After all the hype, the Daibutsu, in the grounds of Kōtoku-in temple, can seem a little disappointing at first sight. But as you approach, and the Great Buddha’s serene, rather aloof face comes more clearly into view, the magic begins to take hold. He sits on a stone pedestal, a broad-shouldered figure lost in deep meditation, with his head slightly bowed, his face and robes streaked grey-green by centuries of sun, wind and rain. The 13m-tall image represents Amida Nyorai, the future Buddha who receives souls into the Western Paradise, and was built under the orders of Minamoto Yoritomo to rival the larger Nara Buddha, near Kyoto. Completed in 1252, the statue is constructed of bronze plates bolted together around a hollow frame – you can climb inside for a fee – and evidence suggests that, at some time, it was covered in gold leaf. Amazingly, it has withstood fires, typhoons, the tsunami of 1495 which washed away its surrounding hall, and even the Great Earthquake of 1923.

Enoshima

江の島 • Escalators ¥350 for all three

Tied to the mainland by a 600m-long bridge, and easily reached from Kamakura, the tiny, sacred island of Enoshima – less than 1km from end to end and largely covered with woods – has a few sights, including some shrines and a botanical garden, but the prime appeal is wandering its network of well-marked paths.

The private Enoden-line train rattles from Kamakura to Enoshima Station, from where it’s roughly a fifteen-minute walk southwest to the island, via a bridge constructed over the original sand spit. Once over the bridge, walk straight ahead under the bronze torii and uphill past restaurants and souvenir shops to where the steps to the main shrine begin; though the climb’s easy enough, there are three escalators tunnelled through the hillside.

Enoshima-jinja

江の島神社 • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥200

The island features a wide-ranging shrine area – Enoshima-jinja – with three separate components, founded in the thirteenth century and dedicated to the guardian of sailors and fisherfolk. Inside one, Hatsu-no-miya, sits Enoshima’s most famous relic – a naked statue of Benten, housed in an octagonal hall halfway up the hill. The statue has been here since the days of Minamoto Yoritomo (1147–99) of the Kamakura Shogunate, who prayed to it for victory over the contemporary Fujiwara clan. Although ranked among Japan’s top three Benten images, it’s a little hard to see what all the fuss is about.

Samuel Cocking Park

サムエル・コッキング苑, Samyueru Cokkingu-en • April–June, Sept & Oct Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–8pm; July & Aug daily 9am–8pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–8pm • Park ¥200, lighthouse ¥300

This nicely laid-out botanical garden is known as the Samuel Cocking Park after the English merchant and horticulturalist who built Japan’s first greenhouse here in 1880. If it’s a clear day, you’ll get good views south to Ōshima’s (occasionally smoking) volcano, and west to Fuji from the lighthouse inside the garden.

Iwaya

岩屋 • Daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4pm • ¥500

From the botanical garden, the path drops down steeply past restaurant-bars perched over the cliff – great for a sunset beer in fine weather – to the island’s rocky west shore and two caves known as Iwaya. The caves themselves aren’t all that special; more enjoyable is the walk along the wave-side boardwalk that runs between them.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KAMAKURA AND AROUND

KAMAKURA

By train You can take either the JR Yokosuka line from Tokyo Station, or the JR Shōnan-Shinjuku line from Shinjuku via Shibuya (every 5–10min; each around 1hr; ¥920); both go via Yokohama (25–30min; ¥340), and all trains stop at Kita-Kamakura Station before pulling into the main Kamakura Station a few minutes later. Tokyo travel cards can be used for all of these journeys.

ENOSHIMA

By train If you’re visiting Enoshima after Kamakura, you can hop onto the Enoden line ( enoden.co.jp) at Kamakura Station (every 12min; 25min; ¥260); trains pull in to Enoshima Station, from where it’s roughly a 15min walk southwest to the island, over the bridge. Alternatively, if you’re heading straight to Enoshima from Tokyo, the most straightforward route is the Odakyū-Enoshima line direct from Shinjuku to Katase-Enoshima Station (片瀬江ノ島駅), which lies just north of the bridge, on the western side of the river; a helpful travel pass (see below) is available for this route.

Travel pass If you’re planning to visit Enoshima, it’s worth considering the Odakyū Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass, a one-day discount ticket (¥1470) covering a return trip to Katase-Enoshima Station on the Odakyū line from Shinjuku, and unlimited travel on the Enoden line; it means that you’ll have to hit Enoshima first and last, while visiting Kamakura on a loop trip, but it’s feasible.

GETTING AROUND

By train Given the narrow roads and amount of traffic, it’s usually quickest to use the trains as far as possible and then walk. On the west side of Kamakura Station are ticket machines and platforms for the private Enoden line ( enoden.co.jp) to Hase and Enoshima (every 12min; daily 6am–11pm); Kamakura to Hase costs ¥190, to Enoshima ¥260. If you plan to hop on and off the Enoden line a lot and haven’t got any other form of discount ticket, it’s worth investing in the Kamakura-Enoshima day-pass (¥700), which entitles you to unlimited travel on this line, plus JR services.

By bus The only time a bus might come in handy is for the more far-flung restaurants or the eastern shrines and temples. Local buses depart from the main station concourse; for the eastern shrines you want stand 4 for Kamakura-gū and stand 5 for Sugimoto-dera (¥200 minimum fare). To make three or more journeys by bus, you’ll save money by buying a Kamakura Free Kippu day pass (¥550), which is available from the JR ticket office. The pass also covers JR trains from Kamakura to Kita-Kamakura and Enoden line services as far as Hase.

INFORMATION

Kamakura tourist office Outside the main, eastern exit of Kamakura Station, immediately to the right, there’s a small tourist information window (daily: April–Sept 9am–5.30pm; Oct–March 9am–5pm; 0467 23 3050), with English-speaking staff.

Enoshima tourist office You can pick up an English-language map of the island at the small tourist office, which is on your left as you come off the bridge (daily 10am–5pm; 0466 26 9544, fujisawa-kanko.jp).

Services There’s an international ATM (Mon–Fri 8am–9pm, Sat & Sun 8am–7pm) at the post office on Wakamiya-ōji, and 24hr facilities in most major convenience stores.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Most people visit Kamakura on a day-trip from Tokyo, but if you do want to stay over note that many places charge more at weekends and during peak holiday periods, when it can be tough to get a room. Central Kamakura offers little budget accommodation, but has a fair choice of mid-range hotels.

Kaihinsō かいひん荘 4-8-14 Yuigahama 0467 22 0960, kaihinso.jp. Nestled by the beach, this hotel is one for the romantics, with elegant rooms and a peaceful setting. The building went up in 1924; though added to since, the Western-style section is now protected property. You can stay in one of the two rooms here, or in tatami rooms in the newer Japanese section; some of the latter have views onto the garden. ¥27,000

Kamakura Prince ホテル鎌倉プリンス 1-2-18 Shichirigahama-higashi 0467 32 1111, princehotels.com/kamakura. Located by the beach, just a couple of stops west of Hase Station on the Enoden line, this hotel is a real winner. Guest rooms surround a delightful pool, while floor-to-ceiling windows offer generous ocean views (from some rooms you can see Mt Fuji, too); a golf range and excellent teppanyaki restaurant round things off, but there’s often a two-night minimum stay. ¥17,000

New Kamakura ホテルニューカマクラ 13-2 Onari-machi 0467 22 2230, newkamakura.com. One of the best-value places to stay in Kamakura is this early twentieth-century, Western-style building by Kamakura Station. It’s a little bit worn, but most rooms are light and airy, with a choice of Western or Japanese style. ¥7000

Villa Sacra ヴィラサクラ13-29 Onari-machi 0467 22 5311, villasacra.com. For something a bit different, give this modern ryokan a whirl. It’s situated in an old Japanese house, renovated with funky artistic flourishes. Staff are switched on, and the common room is a nice place to hang out with other guests. No meals; breakfast available for an extra fee. ¥8500

WeBase Hostel ウィーベースホステル 4-10-7 Yuigahama 0467 22 1221, we-base.jp. Superbly convenient hostel, just over 15min on foot from Kamakura Station, and 2min from the beach. It’s a large place which feels rather more modern than you’d expect in Kamakura – features include a couple of outdoor showers, a large veranda for coffee and chit-chat, and even a yoga studio. Dorms ¥3800, doubles ¥9600

EATING MAP

Kamakura is famous for its beautifully presented Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, known as shōjin ryōri, though there’s plenty more casual dining on offer at local restaurants.

KAMAKURA

Bentendō 弁天堂 1-7-6 Ko-machi 0467 25 3500. At this wonderful teahouse in the grounds of Engaku-ji temple, you can enjoy a cup of matcha (¥650) while admiring the view across the valley to Tōkei-ji. Daily 11am–4pm.

Cafe Terrace Itsuki Garden カフェテラス樹ガーデン On Daibutsu Hiking Course. A fantastic place to get your breath back if you’re panting your way along the Daibutsu Hiking Course. There are seats inside, but in warmer months everyone’s out on the steeply arrayed outdoor terraces. Coffees and teas cost around ¥600, alcoholic drinks a little more. Daily 10am–7pm.

Gokuraku Curry ごくらくカレー 3-9-47 Yuigahama 0467 61 1807. Vegan-friendly, gluten-free curry house serving just one type of curry per day (set meal ¥1500). They only make enough for 30 servings, meaning that it’s best to visit for an earlier lunch, since they often don’t open up at all for dinner. Mon–Fri 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–8pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–2.30pm.

Hachi-no-ki 鉢の木 7 Yamanouchi 0467 22 8719; Kita-Kamakura branch 046 723 3722. Reservations are recommended for this famous shōjin ryōri restaurant beside the entrance to Kenchō-ji, though it’s easier to get a table at the newer branch, just over the lane to the south. Whichever you opt for, prices start at around ¥2400, though the new branch also offers cheap soba (¥920). Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 11.30am–2.30pm, Sat & Sun 11am–3pm; newer branch 11am–2.30pm & 5–7pm, closed Wed.

Paradise Alley Bakery 1-13-10 Ko-machi 0467 84 7203. Tucked into a cute little alley, this hipster bakery (all of the staff, and most of the customers) is a good place in which to load up on snacks before wandering around Kamakura. Most of them are sweet in nature, including a fair few curiously grey (but highly tasty) chocolate breads. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat & Sun 7am–6pm.

ENOSHIMA

Enoshima-tei 江之島亭 Enoshima 0466 22 9111. Pretty seafood restaurant on the island itself; no English, but the picture menu should help out. Most affordable are their donburi (rice bowls, ¥1100 and up); some have non-fishy toppings, but for a local treat go for the ones topped with perilla leaf and a miniature shoal of tiny sardines. Daily 10.30am–6pm.

Kinokuniya 紀伊国屋 1-3-16 Tasegaikan 0466 22 4247; Enoshima Station. Heading towards Enoshima from the station, you’ll pass this simple ryokan-restaurant on your right. It’s highly popular with locals on account of the cheap sets (most ¥1000–1500), most of which include tea or coffee; if it’s on offer, the kin-me-dai (a delicious local red fish, served in soy) is best. Daily 11am–9pm.

DRINKING MAP

Milk Hall ミルクホール 2-3-8 Ko-machi 0467 22 1179, milkhall.co.jp. Dimly lit, jazz-playing coffee house-antique shop buried in the backstreets west of Komachi-dōri. Best for an evening beer, wine or cocktail (all from ¥700), rather than as a place to eat. Occasional live music. Daily 11am–10.30pm.

MOUNT TAKAO

An hour west of Shinjuku, Mount Takao (高尾山; 600m; takaotozan.co.jp), also referred to as Takao-san, is a particularly pleasant place for a quick escape from Tokyo, and is a starting point for longer trails into the mountains in the Chichibu-Tama National Park (秩父多摩国立公園). The Keiō line from Shinjuku provides the simplest and cheapest way of reaching the terminus of Takao-san-guchi (around 1hr; ¥390). After a hike up or a ride on the cable-car or chairlifts (both ¥480 one-way, ¥930 return), you’ll get to Yakuo-in (薬王院; takaosan.or.jp), a temple founded in the eighth century and notable for the ornate polychromatic carvings that decorate its main hall. It hosts the spectacular Hiwatarisai fire ritual on the second Sunday in March back in Takao-san-guchi, where you can watch priests and pilgrims march across hot coals – and even follow them yourself. From the temple, it’s a relatively short walk to Takao’s summit.

Tenshō 天昇 1-3-4 Ko-machi 0467 22 6099. Get away from the tourists and down with the locals at this tachinomiya, whose raucous nature is the very antithesis of the regular genteel Kamakura atmosphere. Yakitori sticks go from ¥130, and sets of Hoppy (a type of fake beer to which alcohol is added) from ¥400. 3–10pm; closed Mon.

Fuji Five Lakes

The best reason for heading 100km west from Tokyo towards the area known as FUJI FIVE LAKES is to climb Mount Fuji (富士山), Japan’s most sacred volcano and, at 3776m, its highest mountain. Fuji-san, as it’s respectfully known by the Japanese, has long been worshipped for its latent power (it last erupted in 1707) and near-perfect symmetry; it is most beautiful from October to May, when the summit is crowned with snow. The climbing season is basically July and August; even if you don’t fancy the rather daunting ascent, just getting up close to Japan’s most famous national symbol is a memorable experience. Apart from Mount Fuji, don’t miss the wonderfully atmospheric shrine Fuji Sengen-jinja, in the area’s transport hub of Fuji-Yoshida.

During the summer, the five lakes in the area are packed with urbanites fleeing the city. Kawaguchi-ko is not only a popular starting point for climbing Mount Fuji, but also features a kimono museum and the easily climbable Mount Tenjō, which has outstanding views of Mount Fuji and the surrounding lakes. The smallest of the other four lakes, horseshoe-shaped Shōji-ko (精進湖), 2km west of Kawaguchi-ko, is by far the prettiest. The largest lake, Yamanaka-ko (山中湖), southeast of Fuji-Yoshida, is just as developed as Kawaguchi-ko and has fewer attractions, while Motosu-ko (本栖湖) and Sai-ko (西湖) – the best for swimming and camping – are fine, but not so extraordinary that they’re worth the trouble of visiting if you’re on a short trip.

Fuji-Yoshida

富士吉田

FUJI-YOSHIDA, some 100km west of Tokyo, lies so close to Mount Fuji that when the dormant volcano eventually blows her top the local residents will be toast. For the time being, however, this small, friendly town acts as an efficient transport hub for the area, as well as the traditional departure point for journeys up the volcano, with frequent buses leaving for Mount Fuji’s fifth station from outside the train station. If you’re in town in late August, you’ll find the main thoroughfare illuminated spectacularly, when seventy bonfires are lit along its length at night-time during the Yoshida Fire Festival (August 26 & 27).

Fuji Sengen-jinja

富士浅間神社 • Off Fuji Panorama Line road • 24hr • Free • Head uphill from the station along the main street towards Fuji; turn left where the road hits a junction and walk 200m

The volcano aside, Fuji-Yoshida’s main attraction is its large, colourful Shintō shrine, Fuji Sengen-jinja, set in a small patch of forest. Sengen shrines, dedicated to the worship of volcanoes, encircle Fuji, and this is the most important, dating right back to 788. The beautiful main shrine was built in 1615. Look around the back for the jolly, brightly painted wooden carvings of the deities Ebisu the fisherman and Daikoku, the god of wealth, good humour and happiness.

Fujikyū Highland

富士急ハイランド • Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–6pm; closed second Tues of month • Rides ¥800–2000; one-day pass ¥5700 • www.fujiq.jp • One train stop west of Mount Fuji Station

An appealingly ramshackle amusement park, Fujikyū Highland features a handful of hair-raising roller coasters, including the Takabisha, which claims to have the world’s steepest drop – 121 degrees of terror. Avoid coming at weekends or during holidays unless you enjoy standing in long queues.

Kawaguchi-ko

河口湖

The small lakeside resort of KAWAGUCHI-KO lies a couple of kilometres west of Fuji-Yoshida, and makes a more appealing place to stay. With its cruise boats and souvenir shops, it’s the tourist hub of the area, and is often choked with traffic during the holiday season. However, the lake is placid and strikingly beautiful, especially at night, when visitors clip-clop around its southern fringes in their wooden geta sandals (said footwear is the standard for those staying at ryokan).

Tenjō-zan

天上山 • Off Misaka-michi • Cable-car Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 one-way, ¥900 return

The fabulous view of Mount Fuji from the top of Tenjō-zan is probably the highlight of a trip to Kawaguchi-ko; of course, you’ll also get a great view of the lake from here, since it’s right next door. You can either take a cable-car ride up to the lookout, or get some exercise by hiking up, which takes 45 minutes.

Itchiku Kubota Art Museum

久保田一竹美術館, Kubota Itchiku Bijutsukan • 2255 Guchiko, 4km northwest of Kawaguchi-ko • April–Nov daily 9.30am–5.30pm; Dec–March 10am–4.30pm, closed Wed • ¥1300 • 0555 76 8811, itchiku-museum.com • Bus from Kawaguchi-ko Station (25min)

One of the highlights of Kawaguchi-ko is the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum, on the northern shore of the lake. This small museum, housed in a Gaudí-esque building, showcases the work of Itchiku Kubota, who refined the traditional tsujigahana textile-patterning technique and applied it to kimono. Inside the pyramid-shaped building are pieces from the artist’s Symphony of Light series, a continuous mountain landscape through the seasons, formed when the kimono are placed side by side.

Mount Fuji

富士山

“A wise man climbs Fuji once. A fool climbs it twice”, says the Japanese proverb. Don’t let the sight of children and grannies trudging up lull you into a false sense of security: at 3776m in height – more than enough for altitude sickness to take hold – this is a tough climb. There are several routes up the volcano, with the ascent on each divided into sections known as stations; the summit is the tenth station. Most people take a bus to the fifth station (go-gōme) on the Kawaguchi-ko route, about halfway up the volcano, where a Swiss-chalet-style gift shop marks the end of the road; for most people, it’s four or five hours from here to the summit. The traditional hike, though, begins down at Fuji-Yoshida and ascends via the Yoshida route; it takes around five hours to walk up to this route’s fifth station, and another six hours to reach the summit. The shortest route (around four hours from the fifth station) is the Fujinomiya-guchi to the south, accessible by bus from Shin-Fuji Station, on the Shinkansen route; these buses also pass Fujinomiya JR Station en route. Many climbers choose to ascend the mountain at night in order to reach the summit by dawn; during the season, the lights of climbers’ torches resemble a line of fireflies trailing up the volcanic scree.

Essential items to carry include at least one litre of water and some food, a torch and batteries, a raincoat and extra clothes. However hot it might be at the start of the climb, the closer you get to the summit the colder it becomes, with temperatures dropping to well below freezing. Sudden rain and lightning strikes are not uncommon.

Mount Fuji’s official climbing season, when all the facilities on the mountain are open, including lodging huts and phones at the summit, runs from July 1 to the middle of September. You can climb outside these dates, but don’t expect all, or indeed any, of the facilities to be in operation, and be prepared for snow and extreme cold towards the summit. Once you’re at the summit, it will take around an hour to make a circuit of the crater.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE FUJI FIVE LAKES

By bus The easiest way to reach the Fuji Five Lakes area is to take the bus (¥1950; 1hr 45min in good traffic) from the Shinjuku bus terminal in Tokyo, on the west side of the train station; there are also services from Tokyo Station and Shibuya. During the climbing season there are frequent services, including at least three a day that run directly to the fifth station on the Kawaguchi-ko route, halfway up Mount Fuji (¥1540 one-way, ¥2100 return; 1hr 15min). If you’re planning on visiting the Hakone area, the regular bus to Gotemba costs ¥1510 (hourly; 2hr); alternatively, the Fuji Hakone Pass allows you to combine the Fuji Five Lakes area with a trip around Hakone.

By train Good news; there are now direct services from Shinjuku to Mount Fuji Station (the old name, Fuji-Yoshida, is still commonly used) and Kawaguchiko, though only twice daily (7.35am & 9.30am; ¥3940–4060). Otherwise, the journey from Shinjuku involves transferring from the JR Chūō line to the Fuji Kyūkō line at Ōtsuki, then take local trains (not covered by the JR Pass, though some have Thomas the Tank Engine decoration, which might make up for it; 2hr or so in total; ¥3340 using the limited express trains).

GETTING AROUND

By bus A comprehensive system of buses will help you get around once you’ve arrived at either Fuji-Yoshida or Kawaguchi-ko. Two-day passes (¥1500) allow travel around the Fuji Five Lakes area.

On foot It’s easy enough to walk from Kawaguchi-ko Station down to the lake in 15min or so, and those without too much luggage can access most of its surrounding hotels on foot.

By bicycle You’ll see plenty of tourists pedalling around the Kawaguchi-ko area. Most rent bikes from their accommodation, though there are plenty of other rental outlets around, including one just opposite the train station, on the left (¥500/hr, ¥1500/day).

INFORMATION

Fuji-Yoshida tourist office On the left as you exit Mount Fuji Station (daily 9am–5pm; 0555 22 7000), with tons of information in English. If you’re here to climb Fuji, pick up a free copy of the various maps on offer (also available at the Kawaguchi-ko tourist office).

Kawaguchi-ko tourist office Outside Kawaguchi-ko station, this branch (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 0555 72 6700) is just as useful as its counterpart in Fuji-Yoshida.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

FUJI-YOSHIDA

Daikoku-ya 大国屋 Honchō-dōri, Fuji-Yoshida 0555 22 3778. This original pilgrims’ inn on the main road still takes guests in its very traditional and beautifully decorated tatami rooms (though the owner prefers guests who can speak some Japanese). Rate includes two meals. Closed Oct–April. ¥14,000

Michael’s マイケルズ 3-21-37 Shimo-yoshida 0555 72 9139, mtfujihostel.com. American-run hostel with spick-and-span rooms, a quiet backstreet location – though one very close to the train station – and a lively bar. Private rooms are a particularly good deal for single travellers. Dorms ¥3000, private rooms (per person) ¥3600

KAWAGUCHI-KO

Fuji Lake 富士レークホテル 1 Funatsu, Kawaguchi-ko-machi 0555 72 2209, fujilake.co.jp. Large lakeside hotel that dates back to the 1930s, making it one of Japan’s oldest such facilities. Its rooms are all large and very stylish, and feature charming washrooms into which onsen water is piped. There’s another fantastic onsen downstairs. ¥15,000

ACCOMMODATION ON MOUNT FUJI

There are seventeen huts on Fuji, most of which provide dorm accommodation from around ¥5500 per night (add ¥1000–2000 on weekends) for just a bed (no need for a sleeping bag), with an option to add meals for ¥1000 each. It’s essential to book in advance during the official climbing season (July & Aug). The huts also sell snacks and stamina-building dishes, such as curry rice. To make reservations at the huts, you’re best off contacting a tourist information office, either in the Fuji Five Lakes area, or in Tokyo.

FUJI-NOODLES

Both Fuji-Yoshida and Kawaguchi-ko are renowned for their thick teuchi (handmade) udon noodles. Fuji-Yoshida udon comes topped with shredded cabbage and carrot, and is usually prepared and served in people’s homes at lunchtime only; the tourist offices can provide a Japanese list and map of the best places serving it. Most of these will serve just three types of dishes: yumori, noodles in a soup; zaru, cold noodles; and sara, warm noodles dipped in hot soup. In Kawaguchi-ko, be sure to try hōtō, a hearty broth served piping hot; ingredients vary, and some places serve it with exotic meats such as venison and bear, but sweet pumpkin is the local favourite.

K’s House Mount Fuji ケイズハウス富士山 6713-108 Funatsu, Kawaguchi-ko-machi 0555 83 5556, kshouse.jp. Super-friendly hostel with a choice of either bunk-bed dorms or private tatami-style rooms, some en suite. Also on offer are a well-equipped kitchen, comfy lounge, internet access, laundry and bike rental, as well as a small bar. They’ll even pick up from the station for free (8am–7.30pm). Their newer hostel, Fuji View, further up the slopes, is a similar operation. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥7200

Sunnide Village サンイデヴィレッジ Kawaguchi-ko 0555 76 6004, www.sunnide.com. This attractive complex of hotel and holiday cottages offers spectacular views across the lake towards Mount Fuji, and has lovely public baths, too. It’s on the north side of the lake, towards the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum. Doubles ¥12,600, cottages ¥16,000

EATING MAP

FUJI-YOSHIDA

Menkyo Kaiden 麺許皆伝 849-1 Kami-Yoshida 0555 23 8806. This is the undisputed udon favourite with lunching locals; you may have to wait for a seat. The menu can be a little confusing, but staff recommend the yokubari, which comes in a miso-base soup (¥550). Mon–Sat 11am–2pm.

KAWAGUCHI-KO

Hōtō Fudo ほうとう不動 Train station plaza 0120 41 0457. Right in front of the train station in a building with a wood-panelled exterior, this small restaurant serves decent hōtō for ¥1050, as well as basashi (raw horse meat; ¥1080) and a range of other tasty Japanese food. Daily 11am–9pm.

Tetsuyaki 鉄焼き 3486-5 Kawaguchiko-chō. This teppanyaki spot is frequently the only place in town open after 8pm. Mains go from ¥800, and include steak, okonomiyaki (pancake-like batter dish with various fillings) and rice dishes; mercifully, since few bars around the lake stay open too long after sundown, they also sell alcoholic drinks. Daily noon–10pm.

DRINKING MAP

Michael’s マイケルズ 3-21-37 Shimo-yoshida 0555 72 9139, mtfujihostel.com. Even if you’re not staying overnight at this Fuji-Yoshida hostel, it’s worth swinging by the bar if you’re in the area – the atmosphere can be surprisingly raucous for provincial Japan. Simple pub snacks are on offer alongside a modest range of drinks. Daily 11.30am–4pm & 7pm–2am; closed Sat lunch & Thurs eve.

Hakone

箱根

South of Mount Fuji and 90km west of Tokyo is the lakeland, mountain and onsen area known as HAKONE, always busy at weekends and during holidays. Most visitors follow the well-established day-trip route, which is good fun and combines rides on several trains or buses, a funicular, a cable-car and a sightseeing ship across the Ashino lake. However, the scenery is so pretty, and there’s so much else to see and do – including some great art museums and numerous onsen – that an overnight stay is encouraged. Weather permitting, you’ll also get great views of nearby Mount Fuji.

The traditional day-trip itinerary, described below, runs anticlockwise from Hakone-Yumoto, gateway to the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, then over the peaks of Sōun-zan, across the length of Ashino-ko to Moto-Hakone, and back to the start. Approaching Hakone from the west, you can follow a similar route clockwise from Hakone-machi, on the southern shore of Ashino-ko, to Hakone-Yumoto.

Hakone-Yumoto

箱根湯元

HAKONE-YUMOTO, the small town nestling in the valley at the gateway to the national park, is marred by scores of concrete-block hotels and bessō, vacation villas for company workers – not to mention the usual cacophony of souvenir shops. It does, however, have some good onsen, which are ideal for unwinding after a day’s sightseeing around the park.

Miyanoshita

宮ﾉ下

Rising up into the mountains, the Hakone-Tozan switchback railway zigzags for nearly 9km alongside a ravine from Hakone-Yumoto to the village of Gōra. There are small traditional inns and temples at several of the stations along the way, but the single best place to alight is the village onsen resort of MIYANOSHITA. Interesting antique and craft shops are dotted along its main road, and there are several hiking routes up Mount Sengen (804m) on the eastern flank of the railway – one path begins just beside the station. At the top (an hour’s walk or so) you’ll get a great view of the gorge below. After the walk you can relax in the appealing day-onsen Tenoyu. Miyanoshita’s real draw, however, is its handful of splendid hotels, the most historic of which is the Fujiya , which opened for business in 1878; it’s well worth a look even if you’re not staying, and its Orchid Lounge is great for afternoon tea.

Hakone Open-Air Museum

彫刻の森美術館, Chōkoku no Mori Bijutsukan • 1121 Ninotaira • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1600; small discounts if booked online • hakone-oam.or.jp

Travelling two stops uphill from Miyanoshita on the Hakone-Tozan railway brings you to Chōkoku no Mori (彫刻の森), where you should alight if you want to visit the nearby Hakone Open-Air Museum. This worthwhile museum is packed with sculptures, ranging from works by Rodin and Giacometti to Michelangelo reproductions and bizarre modern formations scattered across the landscaped grounds, which have lovely views across the mountains to the sea. You can rest between galleries at several restaurants or cafés, and there’s also a traditional Japanese teahouse here.

ONSEN IN HAKONE

The sulphuric steam rising from the mountain of Sōun-zan makes it clear that something is going on beneath the surface of Hakone. As with any such place in Japan, this volcanic activity also makes it a prime spot for a soak in mineral-heavy onsen water.

Hakone Yuryō 箱根湯寮 hakoneyuryo.jp. Set back in the forest near Hakone-Yumoto, this onsen is a good option; bathing out by the trees is quite delightful, even if the weather’s chilly. Free shuttle buses from Hakone-Yumoto Station. Daily 10am–8pm; ¥1500.

Tenoyu てのゆ tenoyu.jp.Attractive onsen with rotemburo (outdoor hot springs), a short walk out of Miyanoshita along the main road to Gōra. Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat & Sun 11am–8pm; ¥1600 Mon–Fri, ¥2100 Sat & Sun.

Tenzan Notemburo 天山野天風呂 tenzan.jp. The most stylish bathhouse in the area is this luxurious riverside complex close to Hakone-Yumoto Station, and connected to it by free shuttle buses. There are outdoor baths for men and women, including waterfalls and jacuzzis in a series of rocky pools, plus a clay-hut sauna for men. For an extra charge both men and women can use the wooden baths in the building across the car park. Rarely for Japan, visible tattoos are allowed. Mon–Fri 11am–8pm, Sat & Sun 11am–9pm; ¥1100.

Gōra to Ashino-ko

Funicular tram Every 10–15min • ¥420 one-way • Cable-car Every 1–2min • ¥1450 one-way to Ashino-ko

The Hakone-Tozan railway terminates at GŌRA (強羅), where you can stop for lunch, or overnight. Continuing west on the day-trip route, you’ll transfer to a funicular tram, which takes ten minutes to cover the short but steep distance to Sōunzan, the start of the cable-car ride. From here, the cable-car floats like a balloon on its thirty-minute journey high above the mountain to the Tōgendai terminal beside Ashino-ko, stopping at a couple of points along the way.

Hakone Museum of Art

箱根美術館, Hakone Bijutsukan • 1300 Gōra • 9am–4pm; closed Thurs • ¥1400 • moaart.or.jp/hakone

En route to Sōunzan, you might want to stop at Kōen-kami (公園上), a couple of stops from Gōra, for the Hakone Museum of Art. Its collection of ancient ceramics – some of which date back as far as the Jōmon period – is likely to appeal to experts only, but the delicate moss gardens and the view from the traditional teahouse across the verdant hills are captivating.

Ōwakudani

大涌谷

If the weather is playing ball, you should get a good glimpse of Mount Fuji in the distance as you pop over the hill at the first cable-car stop, ŌWAKUDANI. This is the site of a constantly bubbling and steaming valley formed by a volcanic eruption three thousand years ago. A series of tectonic belches in recent years saw the cable-car station and surrounding area fully closed down, with visitors unable to get off and explore; the station and some surrounding paths were reopened in 2016. Should the remainder of Ōwakudani be opened up, you’ll be able to hike through the lava formations to bubbling pools where eggs are traditionally boiled until they are black, then scoffed religiously by every tourist.

North from Gōra

North of Gōra are a couple of excellent museums, both worthy of a detour: the splendid Pola Museum of Art and the quirky Lalique Museum Hakone. The latter is in the pleasant village of SENGOKUHARA (仙石原), a good place to stay the night.

Pola Museum of Art

ポーラ美術館, Pōra Bijutsukan • 1285 Sengokuhara • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1800 • polamuseum.or.jp • Bus from Gōra Station (15min; ¥300)

The superb Pola Museum of Art boasts a diverse and eclectic collection of Western art, predominantly from French Impressionists and École de Paris artists. When you’ve had your fill of checking out pieces by the likes of Renoir, Monet, Picasso, Van Gogh and Cézanne, hunt down the glasswork section, and the Japanese paintings and ceramics. The artworks are all displayed in modern galleries in a stunning building that blends beautifully with the surrounding forest, and there’s a café and restaurant on site too.

Lalique Museum Hakone

箱根ラリック美術館, Hakone Rarikku Bijutsukan • 186-1 Sengokuhara • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1500, or ¥2100 including train carriage with drinks and dessert (reservation necessary) • 0406 84 2225, lalique-museum.com • Bus from Gōra Station (25min; ¥420)

Perhaps the most interesting – and certainly the most beautifully situated – of Sengokuhara’s museums is the Lalique Museum Hakone, dedicated to the delicate glass pieces of the French artist René Lalique. At the entrance is a parked Orient Express Pullman train carriage, kitted out with Lalique glass panels, which is a great place for tea.

Ashino-ko and around

Sightseeing boats Tōgendai to Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi ¥1000 one-way, ¥1840 return • Daily 9.30am–5pm, every 30–40min • hakone-kankosen.co.jp • Komaga-take cable-car ¥1000 one way, ¥1800 return

From Tōgendai (桃原台) – the westernmost point of the cable-car route from Gōra – a shoreline trail winds along the western side of Ashino-ko (芦ノ湖) to the small resort of HAKONE-MACHI (箱根町) some 8km south, taking around three hours to cover. This western lakeshore is not covered by the Hakone Free Pass and is thus somewhat marginalized – and all the more peaceful for it. Most visitors, however, hop straight from the cable-car on to one of the colourful sightseeing ships, modelled after the seventeenth-century man o’ war The Sovereign of the Seas, that regularly sail the length of the lake in around thirty minutes; you can see Fuji’s peak reflected in the waters from the northern end of Ashino-ko. A cluster of upmarket hotels and ryokan can be found at Hakone-machi, where the sightseeing boats dock before or after hitting Moto-Hakone.

Boats also run from Tōgendai to the Prince hotel resort at Hakone-en (箱根園), midway down the east side of the lake. A cable-car here glides up the 1357m Komagatake (駒ヶ岳), from where there’s a fabulous view; you can’t use Hakone passes for this one, so it’s usually pretty empty.

Hakone Barrier

箱根関所, Hakone Sekisho • Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥500

The southern end of the lake is the location of the Hakone Barrier, a gateway through which all traffic on the Tōkaidō, the ancient road linking Kyoto and Edo, once had to pass. What stands here today is a reproduction, enlivened by waxwork displays which provide the historical background, and there’s nothing much to keep you.

Onshi-Hakone Kōen

恩賜箱根公園 • Daily 9am–4.30pm • Free

North of the Hakone Barrier, the wooded promontory between Hakone and Moto-Hakone, Onshi-Hakone Kōen, is an easily accessible Fuji-viewing spot. After panting your way up 200-odd steps, you’ll come to a garden area and an observation point; despite the hordes of tourists pouring off the ferries to the south, and padding their way through Moto-Hakone to the north, this place is usually pretty quiet.

Moto-Hakone

元箱根

Part of the Tōkaidō ancient road – shaded by 420 lofty cryptomeria trees planted in 1618, and now designated “Natural Treasures” – runs for around 1km beside the road leading from the Hakone Barrier to the lakeside MOTO-HAKONE tourist village. The prettiest spot around here is the vermilion torii (gate), standing in the water just north of Moto-Hakone – a scene celebrated in many an ukiyo-e print and modern postcard. The gate belongs to the Hakone Gongen (箱根権現) and is the best thing about this small Shintō shrine, set back in the trees, where samurai once came to pray.

THE HAKONE BARRIER

In 1618 the second shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada, put up the Hakone Barrier (Sekisho) – actually more of a large compound than a single gate – which stood at Hakone-machi until 1869. The shogun decreed that all his lords’ wives and their families live in Edo (now Tokyo) and that the lords themselves make expensive formal visits to the capital every other year, a strategy designed to ensure no one attempted a rebellion. The Tōkaidō, on which the barrier stands, was one of the major routes in and out of the capital, and it was here that travellers were carefully checked to see how many guns they were taking into the Edo area; the barrier also ensured that the lords’ families were prevented from escaping. Any man caught trying to dodge the barrier was crucified and then beheaded, while accompanying women had their heads shaved and were, according to contemporary statute, “given to anyone who wants them”.

Ashino-ko to Hakone-Yumoto

From either Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone you can take a bus back to Hakone-Yumoto or Odawara. Far more rewarding, however, is the 11km hike along part of the Tōkaidō ancient road, which begins five minutes up the hill from the Hakone-Tozan bus station in Moto-Hakone; to find the start of the route, watch for the spot where large paving stones are laid through the shady forests. After the first 2km the route is all downhill and takes around four hours.

When the path comes out of the trees and hits the main road, you’ll see the Amazake-jaya Teahouse. From here, the path shadows the main road to the small village of HATAJUKU (畑宿), where since the ninth century craftsmen have perfected the art of yosegi-zaiku, or marquetry. The wooden boxes, toys and other objects inlaid with elaborate mosaic patterns make great souvenirs; there are workshops throughout the village, including one right where the path emerges onto the main road. Hatajuku is a good place to pick up the bus the rest of the way to Hakone-Yumoto if you don’t fancy hiking any further.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HAKONE

By train Most people visit Hakone aboard the Odakyū-line train from Shinjuku, using one of the company’s excellent-value travel passes. To get to Hakone-Yumoto – at the end of the line – on the basic trains (2hr; ¥1190), you may have to change in Odawara (小田原); for an extra fee you can take the more comfortable “Romance Car” (hourly; 1hr 30min; ¥2280) all the way. If you’re using a JR Pass, the fastest route is to take a Shinkansen to Odawara, from where you can transfer to an Odakyū train (16min; ¥310) or bus into the national park area.

By bus The Odakyū express bus (hourly; from ¥1680) from Shinjuku bus terminal will get you to Hakone in a couple of hours; buses stop first at Hakone-Yumoto, followed by Moto-Hakone, the Prince hotel at Hakone-en and finally Tōgendai. The company also runs buses from Tokyo Station (6 daily; ¥1650) and the Tokyo airports. It’s also possible to visit by bus from the Fuji Five Lakes area, in which case you’ll enter Hakone through Sengokuhara to the north, passing through the major town of Gotemba; passes will save you money, as well as hassle on the local buses, which don’t give any change.

Tourist information You can pick up a map of the area and plenty of other information at the very friendly Hakone tourist office (daily 9am–5.45pm; 0460 85 5700, hakone.or.jp), situated in the buildings at the bus terminal, across the street from Hakone-Yumoto Station.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Excellent transportation links mean you can stay pretty much anywhere in the national park and get everywhere else easily. There’s a good range of budget options and some top-grade ryokan; a profusion of offerings on Airbnb has seen prices decrease slightly at the lower end of the spectrum.

ASHINO-KO

Moto-Hakone Guesthouse 元箱根ゲストハウス 103 Moto-Hakone 0460 83 7880, motohakone.com. Simple guesthouse a short bus ride (get off at Ōshiba) or stiff 10min walk uphill from Moto-Hakone village. The reward for the journey is spotless Japanese-style rooms and extremely friendly service – a cup of coffee will be plonked in front of you in no time at all. Surcharge of ¥1000 at weekends. ¥5000 per person

Prince Hakone プリンス箱根 144 Moto-hakone 0460 83 1111, princehotels.com. This hotel boasts a prime location on the eastern shore of Ashino-ko and a multitude of facilities, including access to an outdoor hot bath with a view of the lake. ¥24,000

GORA

Gōra Kadan 強羅花壇 1300 Gōra 0460 82 3331, gorakadan.com. One of Hakone’s most exclusive ryokans is the stuff of legend, which means you might have to wait an eternity to secure a reservation. Expect beautiful tatami rooms, antiques, exquisite meals and a serene atmosphere. Rates include two meals. ¥100,000

Hakone Tent 箱根テント 1320-257 Gōra 0460 83 8021, hakonetent.com. Created from an old ryokan, this striking, modern guesthouse is a fantastic choice for those on a budget. The on-site onsen is a delight, and travellers usually end up having a natter over sake or beer at the welcoming bar before collapsing onto their futons. The single room is great value at ¥4000, and if the place is full they have a similar new branch, the Irori, within walking distance. Dorms ¥3500, doubles ¥9000

Hyatt Regency Hakone ハイアット リージェンシー箱根 1320 Gōra 0460 82 2000, hakone.regency.hyatt.com. This slickly designed hotel is a treat, offering some of the largest rooms in Hakone and elegant facilities, including a lounge, two restaurants and the Izumi onsen spa. For those who can’t bear to be parted from their pooch, there are even dog-friendly stone-floored rooms. ¥35,000

Alamy

ASHINO-KO LAKE

HAKONE TRAVEL PASSES

Touring the Hakone area is great fun, but the various train, funicular, cable-car and boat tickets can add up quickly. One way to prevent this, and save a bundle of cash, is to invest in one of the many travel passes covering the area. As well as covering almost all transport, they can be used to lop a little off entry prices to some sights. You can buy passes at the Odakyū Sightseeing Service Centre at the west exit of Shinjuku Station (daily 8am–6pm; 03 5321 7887, odakyu.jp); the English-speaking staff here can also make reservations for tours and hotels.

Hakone Freepass If you plan to follow the traditional Hakone route, invest in this pass, which comes in either two- or three-day versions; from Shinjuku, it costs ¥5700/¥6100 (2/3 days); from Odawara or Gotemba it costs ¥4600/¥5000 (2/3 days). The pass covers a return journey on the Odakyū line from Shinjuku to Odawara, and unlimited use of the Hakone-Tozan line, Hakone-Tozan funicular railway, cable-car, boats across the lake and most local buses.

Hakone One-day Pass If you’re already in Odawara or Gotemba you can buy a special one-day pass for ¥1540 which provides unlimited use of the railways and cable-car. Note that it doesn’t cover the journeys to or from Tokyo, nor the boat.

Fuji Hakone Pass If you’re going directly from Hakone to the neighbouring Fuji Five Lakes area (or vice versa) then the three-day Fuji Hakone Pass (¥9090 from Shinjuku, ¥6740 from Odawara) is the way to go. This offers the same deal as a Hakone Freepass, but also covers a one-way express bus trip between the Hakone area and Kawaguchi-ko; you can hit Fuji and Hakone in either order, returning from whichever one you like.

MIYANOSHITA

Fujiya 富士屋ホテル 359 Miyanoshita 0460 82 2211, fujiyahotel.jp. The first Western-style hotel in Japan, this place is a living monument to a more glamorous era of travel, and boasts lots of Japanese touches, including traditional gardens and decorative gables like those found in temples. The plush 1950s-style decor is retro-chic, the rooms are good value, and there are a couple of great on-site places to eat and drink; at the time of writing it was closed for restoration, but it should have reopened by the time you read this. ¥14,000

Hakone Ginyu 箱根吟遊 100-1 Miyanoshita 0460 82 3355, hakoneginyu.co.jp. Outstanding luxury ryokan, where guests are assured maximum comfort. The views across the valley are stunning and the interiors are a tasteful blend of old and new. Huge hinoki wood tubs on private verandas are a major plus. Rates include two meals. ¥66,000

SENGOKUHARA

Fuji-Hakone Guesthouse 富士箱根ゲストハウス 912 Sengokuhara 0460 84 6577, fujihakone.com. Tucked into a pleasingly secluded spot, this convivial guesthouse – run by the friendly, English-speaking Takahashi-san and his family – has comfortable tatami rooms, though the defining feature is the onsen water piped into no fewer than four separate baths. Breakfast available. ¥10,800

EATING MAP

ASHINO-KO

Karaage Karatto 唐揚げKARATTO 10 Moto-Hakone 0460 83 5008. This is the best of the rather motley bunch of tourist restaurants in Moto-Hakone, specialising in karaage (deep-fried chicken; ¥800), with curry-rice pretty much your only other choice. Many end up here by default, since the area’s other restaurants all shut even earlier – plus, as the signboard outside states, they sell pints of draught Guinness (¥850). Daily 11am–7pm.

HAKONE-YUMOTO

Hakone-Yumoto is stacked with good places to eat. There are also three good-value restaurants at the nearby Tenzan Notemburo bathhouse serving rice, shabu-shabu (hotpot) and yakiniku (grilled meat) dishes.

Hatsuhana Soba はつ花そば 635 Hakone-Yumoto 0460 85 8287. The Hakone area is famed for its soba, on account of the purity of the local water, and this restaurant is the best place to try it. Several options are available, including tempura and curry bowls, but you can’t go wrong with the teijo soba, served with grated yam and raw egg (¥1050). To get here from the station, follow the riverbank into town, then turn left at the first bridge – it’s right on the other side, overlooking the river. Daily 10am–7pm.

Naokichi 直吉 696 Hakone-Yumoto 0460 85 5148. Excellent, elegant restaurant serving the scrumptious local speciality, yubadon – soy milk skin in fish broth served on rice (¥980). Not sold yet? There’s also a free onsen footbath just outside. To find it, head up the river path from the station; you’ll soon spot the place on your right. 11am–6pm; closed Tues.

HATAJUKU

Amazake-chaya 甘酒茶屋 Hatajuku. Rest at this charming teahouse, just as travellers did hundreds of years ago, and sip a restorative cup of the milky, sweet rice drink amazake (¥400), with some mochi (rice-cake; ¥250 each). Daily 7am–5.30pm.

MIYANOSHITA

Naraya Café ならやカフェー 404-13 Miyanoshita. There’s one major draw at this lovely café, just down the road from Miyanoshita Station – a footbath that runs under the table in the outdoor section, making it possible to bathe your toes while sipping a latte (¥450), or perhaps even a cocktail. Hot dogs and other snacks are available, and there’s a gallery on the top level. 10.30am–6pm; closed Wed.

Orchid Lounge 359 Miyanoshita 0460 82 2211, fujiyahotel.co.jp. The tea lounge at the wonderful Fujiya hotel is a grand spot for coffee (¥1500 with cake) or afternoon tea (¥1000); it’s a pleasure to sit down and relax with a view over the garden and carp-filled pond. Daily 9am–9pm.

SENGOKUHARA

Hoshino-an 穂し乃庵 817-88 Sengokuhara 0460 84 0055. If you’re staying in the Sengokuhara area, this simple restaurant is a good bet for dinner and a drink, and with a little advance warning they’ll collect you from nearby accommodation. They’ve a decent range of soba (from ¥750), plus heartier sets featuring deep-fried comestibles (from ¥1150), and a range of local drinks. 11am–3pm & 5–8pm; closed Wed.

Izu Hantō

伊豆半島

Formed by Mount Fuji’s ancient lava flows, Izu Hantō protrudes like an arrowhead into the ocean southwest of Tokyo, a mountainous spine whose tortured coastline features some superb scenery and a couple of decent beaches. Direct train services from Tokyo run down Izu’s more developed east coast to the harbour town of Shimoda, a good base for exploring southern Izu. The only settlement of any size in central Izu is Shuzenji, whose nearby onsen resort has long been associated with novelists such as Kawabata Yasunari and Sōseki Natsume. Izu’s mild climate makes it a possible excursion even in winter, though it’s close enough to Tokyo to be crowded at weekends, and is best avoided during the summer holidays.

Shimoda and around

下田

Trains peel off down the east coast of Izu at Atami, cutting through craggy headlands and running high above bays ringed with fishing villages or resort hotels. Nearly halfway down the peninsula is Itō (伊東), the port where Will Adams launched Japan’s first Western-style sailing ships, but there’s nothing really to stop for until you reach SHIMODA. Off season, this small, amiable town, with its attractive scenery and sprinkling of temples and museums, makes a good base for a couple of days’ exploring. Shimoda was one of the places Commodore Perry parked his “Black Ships” in 1854, making it one of Japan’s first ports to open to foreign trade. The people of Shimoda are immensely proud of their part in Japanese history and you’ll find Black Ships everywhere; there’s even a Black Ships Festival (around the third Friday to Sunday in May), which sees American and Japanese naval bands parade through the streets, followed by the inevitable fireworks.

Central Shimoda lies on the northwestern shore of a well-sheltered harbour, surrounded by steep hills. Most of its sights are in the older, southerly district, where you’ll find a number of attractive grey-and-white latticed walls near the original fishing harbour; this style of architecture (known as namako-kabe), found throughout Izu, is resistant to fire, earthquakes and corrosive sea air. Tourist boats run from Shimoda to Izu’s southern cape, Irō-zaki, while a few kilometres north of town there are onsen baths at Rengaiji Onsen.

Brief history

Having signed an initial treaty in Yokohama, which granted America trading rights in Shimoda and Hakodate (on Hokkaidō) and consular representation, Commodore Perry sailed his Black Ships (Kurofune) down to Izu. Here, in Shimoda’s Ryōsen-ji, he concluded a supplementary Treaty of Friendship in 1854. Russian, British and Dutch merchants were granted similar rights soon after, and in 1856 Townsend Harris arrived in Shimoda as the first American Consul. By now, however, it was obvious Shimoda was too isolated as a trading post and Harris began negotiating for a revised treaty, which was eventually signed (again in Shimoda) in July 1858. Kanagawa replaced Shimoda as an open port, and the burgeoning foreign community decamped north to Yokohama.

Ryōsen-ji

了仙寺 • Museum Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥500 • www.izu.co.jp/~ryosenji

Your first stop in Shimoda should be Ryōsen-ji, where Commodore Perry signed the Treaty of Friendship in 1854 (see above), though this small but elaborate temple, founded in 1635, is less interesting than its attached museum, which is full of fascinating historical documents and wood-block prints, many of them original, from the 1850s. Delightful portraits of Perry and his devilish crew, penned by Japanese artists, contrast with the European view of Japan – embellished with Chinese touches – from contemporary editions of the Illustrated London News and other European journals. Many exhibits relate to the tragic Saitō Okichi, the servant girl of Consul Harris, who earned the nickname of Tōjin (“foreigner’s concubine”), while a second room contains a somewhat incongruous display of sex in religious art, including some beautiful pieces from India, Nepal and Japan’s Shintō shrines.

WILL ADAMS

In 1600 a Dutch ship washed up on east Kyūshū, the sole survivor of five vessels that had set sail from Europe two years previously; three-quarters of the crew had perished from starvation and the remaining 24 were close to death. One of those rescued was the navigator, an Englishman called Will Adams (1564–1620). He was summoned by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the future shogun, who quizzed Adams about European affairs, religion and various scientific matters. Ieyasu liked what he heard and made Adams his personal adviser on mathematics, navigation and armaments. Adams, known locally as Anjin (“pilot”), later served as the shogun’s interpreter and as a diplomat, brokering trade treaties with both Holland and Britain. In return he was granted samurai status – the first and last foreigner to be so honoured – along with a Japanese wife and an estate near Yokosuka on the Miura Peninsula.

Adams’ main task, however, was to oversee the construction of Japan’s first Western-style sailing ships. In 1605 he set up a shipyard at Itō, on the east coast of Izu, where he built at least two ocean-going vessels over the next five years. His fascinating life story is told in Giles Milton’s Samurai William and also forms the basis for James Clavell’s novel, Shogun. Each August, Itō’s Anjin Matsuri celebrates Adams.

From Ryōsen-ji, Perry Road leads east along a small river lined with willows and picturesque old houses, some now converted into cafés and antique shops.

Shimoda History Museum

下田開国博物館, Shimoda Kaikoku Hakubutsukan • Daily 8.30am–5.30pm • ¥1200

Heading west from Ryōsen-ji, you’ll soon come to the Shimoda History Museum, housed in two namako-kabe buildings on opposite sides of the street. Consul Harris and Saitō Okichi feature prominently, alongside caricatures of big-nosed foreigners. The museum also includes plenty of information, much of it in English, about local life, including the area’s distinctive architecture and festivals.

Hōfuku-ji

宝福寺 • Temple museum Daily 8am–5pm • ¥300

When Saitō Okichi died in 1890, none of her family came forward to claim her body, so it was left to a local priest to bring her back to the family temple for burial. Her grave now lies behind the otherwise unremarkable Hōfuku-ji, where there’s another small museum dedicated to her memory.

Nesugata-yama

寝姿山 • Ropeway daily 9am–5pm, departures every 10–15min • ¥1030 return

The east side of Shimoda is dominated by the 200m-high peak of Nesugata-yama. On a clear day it’s worth taking the ropeway from beside the train station up to the summit for dramatic views of the harbour and out to the Izu islands on the eastern horizon.

Gyokusen-ji

玉泉寺 • Museum Daily 8am–5pm • ¥300

Along the promenade at the far, eastern, side of Shimoda Harbour is Gyokusen-ji, where Townsend Harris established Japan’s first American consulate in 1856 – he lived and worked there for about fifteen months, accompanied by his Dutch interpreter, Chinese servants and, possibly, his servant girl Saitō Okichi. On entering the Townsend Harris Museum, to the right of the temple, you’re greeted by a startling, life-size model of Harris, complete with splendid handlebar moustache, relaxing in his rocking chair in full evening dress while Okichi offers him a glass of milk.

Rendaiji Onsen

蓮台寺温泉 • Trains run from Shimoda to Rendaiji Station (2–3 hourly; 3–4min; ¥170), from where it’s a short walk west across the river and highway to the village; most local buses drop you on the main street (1–2 hourly; 10min; ¥170)

Set in a narrow valley 3km north of Shimoda, just west of National Highway 414, RENDAIJI ONSEN is a quiet, one-street village consisting mostly of exclusive ryokan that tap into the area’s abundant supply of hot water. You can visit these onsen baths even if you’re not staying overnight. There are also a few meandering back lanes to explore.

Irō-zaki

石廊崎 • Bus from Izukyū-Shimoda Station roughly every 30min (1–2 hourly; 40min) • Tourist boats from Shimoda (usually 1–2 hourly; 25min; ¥1400)

From Shimoda, Highway 136 sets off southwest towards Izu’s southern cape, Irō-zaki, 17km away. Arriving by road, you’ll be greeted by an expanse of car parks, but Irō-Zaki improves dramatically as you walk out along the promontory for about 500m, past souvenir shops and a lighthouse, to a minuscule shrine balanced on the cliff edge. The views here are superb: on either side the sea has cut deep-blue gashes into the coastline, leaving behind a sprinkling of rocky islets between which colourful tourist boats bob and weave.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SHIMODA AND AROUND

By train Super View Odoriko express trains (hourly; 2hr 40min–3hr; ¥6840), which have extra-wide windows to take in the spectacular coastal views, run direct from Tokyo Station to Izukyū-Shimoda Station on the north side of Shimoda town; some services divide at Atami for Shuzenji, so check you’re in the right section. There are also “normal” services, which involve a change: you can take a Shinkansen as far as Atami and change (2hr 45min in total; ¥5940), or go on a slow service to Itō and change there (4hr in total; ¥3890). Note that JR passes are not valid beyond Itō, so you’ll need to pay a supplement or buy another ticket.

By bus There are buses from in front of Shimoda Station to Izu locations unreachable by train; these include Irō-zaki (1–2 hourly; 40min) and Shuzenji (1 daily; 2hr).

GETTING AROUND

By car Car rental is available from Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 0558 22 5711), Nissan ( 0558 23 4123) and Toyota ( 0558 27 0100), all with outlets close to the station.

By bike You can rent bikes at Noguchi Rentacycle (daily 9.30am–6pm; ¥500/hr, ¥2000/day; 0558 22 1099), one block south of the station.

By boat Tourist boats run to Irō-zaki (usually 1–2 hourly; 25min; ¥1400), departing from the tourist wharf on the east side of Shimoda.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information There’s an information desk inside the front exit of the station (daily 9am–5pm; 0558 22 3200); they usually sell discounted tickets to the town’s sights. The Shimoda Tourist Association (daily 10am–5pm; 0558 23 5593, shimoda-city.info) is southeast of the station beside the main crossroads; both places can help with town maps and accommodation.

Harbour cruises From the tourist wharf you can take a short 20min harbour cruise on a replica Black Ship (daily 9.10am–4pm; every 30min–1hr; ¥1200).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Much of the town’s accommodation consists of either pricey resort hotels on the harbourfront or rather run-down minshuku. However, there are a few appealing options around the station and among the older streets to the south. Other possibilities in the area include the more stylish ryokan in Rendaiji, 3km north of Shimoda, and a series of beach-side hotels and guesthouses lining the Shirahama coast, starting a few kilometres east of Shimoda.

CITY CENTRE

Kaihin 下田海浜ホテル 3-26-7 Shimoda-shi, a 10min walk from Perry Rd 0558 22 2065, itoenhotel.com. Not the prettiest building, but the location on a quiet bay and the reasonable rates (including two meals) are a plus. Rooms are mostly Japanese-style, with balconies and sea views, and there are two onsen baths, one with sea views, plus a rotemburo. ¥18,000

Uraga ホテルウラガ 3-3-10 Shimoda-shi 0558 23 6600. Clean, bright business hotel in the south part of town. It’s worth paying a little extra for the larger twins, but all rooms are comfortable, and the coffee shop serves Japanese and Western breakfasts. Some English spoken. ¥10,500

SHIRAHAMA

Gardenvilla Shirahama ガーデンヴィラ白浜 2644-1 Shirahama 0558 22 8080, gardenvilla.jp. The best of the many modern options in Shirahama. Its rooms are cosy enough, but to get the most out of the place you’ll have to visit in the warmer months, when you can make use of the swimming pool (July–Sept) and properly appreciate the outdoor rotemburo and ocean-view balcony – the latter is a great place to eat their excellent Western-style breakfasts (¥1000). ¥10,500

RENDAIJI ONSEN

Kanaya Ryokan 金谷旅館 0558 22 0325. Set in a beautiful, traditional building, this ryokan features the most appealing of Rendaiji’s many onsen – a big wooden public bath (non-guests ¥700) in a cavernous hall. There are several other pools here too, including a rotemburo, where many of your fellow bathers will be local families. The ryokan also has an observatory for stargazing, and a tea ceremony room. It’s located on the main highway, just north of the village turning. Rates include two meals. ¥23,000

EATING MAP

Shimoda has a number of affordable izakaya and sushi restaurants. As with the rest of Izu, the town is justly proud of its kin-me-dai, a red-scaled fish with a silver, coin-like eye, and the rather magnificent English name of “Splendid Alfonsino”. There are also a few good coffee shops scattered around town and along Perry Road, some of which double as antiques showrooms.

Gorosaya ごろさや 1-5-25 Shimoda-shi 0558 23 5638. Relaxed and popular fish restaurant which apparently predates the arrival of the Black Ships. Their standard teishoku (around ¥1700) includes a choice of sashimi, tempura or grilled kin-me-dai – almost everyone’s here for the latter, and rightly so. 11.30am–2pm & 5–9pm; closed Thurs.

Ramaru ラーマル 1-1 Shimoda-shi 0558 27 2510. This retro-style American burger bar was nothing special until they started selling their now-famous Shimoda burger (¥1000), a real beast filled with a giant slab of kin-me-dai, topped with a chunk of brie and drizzled with a tangy soy sauce. Absolutely wonderful, and quite possibly the best burger on offer in all Japan – worth the ten-minute walk from central Shimoda. Daily 10am–5pm.

Sōgabō 草画房 3-14-6 Shimoda-shi 0558 27 1123. The best and most attractive of Perry Road’s many cafés, its tatami interior boasting a mix of seating styles, from wooden to cushioned to floor mats; most go for the tables with views out over the stream. Try a coffee or green-tea latte; it’ll set you back around ¥650. Daily 10am–5pm.

Sushi-take 寿司竹 2-4-6 Shimoda-shi 0558 22 2026. Choose from the picture menu or counter display at this sushi outlet, or simply opt for one of the well-priced sushi sets (from ¥1500). They also serve donburi dishes, including aji-don (local horse mackerel). 11.30am–3pm & 5–11pm; closed Thurs.

DRINKING MAP

Soul Bar Tosaya 3-14-30 Shimoda-shi 0558 27 0587. This is one of a few quirky places to drink in the Perry Road area, with drinks from ¥500. The music’s pretty cool, and generally in keeping with the establishment’s name. The walls are adorned with posters, stickers and vinyl covers. Daily 6pm–midnight.

Shūzen-ji Onsen

修善寺 温泉

Not to be confused with the modern town of Shuzenji, 3km to the northwest, SHŪZEN-JI ONSEN consists of little more than one road and a string of riverside hotels and souvenir shops along a narrow valley. Follow the main street west and you’ll soon reach an open area with some pleasant older buildings and a succession of red-lacquered bridges over the tumbling Katsura-gawa. Here, on a rocky outcrop beside the river, is Tokko-no-yu, Shūzen-ji’s first and most famous onsen. According to legend, the onsen was “created” in 807 by Kōbō Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, when he found a boy washing his ailing father in the river; the priest struck the rock with his tokko (the short, metal rod carried by Shingon priests), and out gushed hot water with curative powers.

Shūzen-ji

修善寺 • Museum Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–4.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–4pm • ¥300

As well as founding Shūzen-ji’s first onsen, Kōbō Daishi is also credited with founding the nearby temple, Shūzen-ji, from which the town gets its name. The present temple, which stands at the top of the steps on the river’s north bank, was rebuilt in 1883 and its now quiet halls belie a violent history.

Opposite the Shūzen-ji temple office you’ll find a small museum full of temple treasures, including possessions allegedly belonging to Kōbō Daishi and Minamoto Yoriie, and what is said to be Yoriie’s death mask, all red and swollen. There’s also information, some of it in English, about the many novels and plays inspired by these dramatic events, including Okamoto Kidō’s famous modern kabuki play Shūzen-ji Monogatari, written in 1911.

Shigetsu-den

指月殿

The unassuming grave of Minamoto Yoriie lies on the hillside directly across the valley from Shūzen-ji, beside a smaller temple, Shigetsu-den, which Yoriie’s repentant mother, Hōjō Masako, built to appease the soul of her son. Though not a dramatic building, it’s the oldest in Shuzenji and has a fine Buddha statue inside accompanied by two guardians. Also on this side of the river, you’ll find a delightful path snaking its way through a copse of bamboo.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHŪZEN-JI ONSEN

By train Travelling to Shūzenji from Tokyo, the best option is a Super View Odoriko train direct from Tokyo Station to Shūzenji Station (2 daily; 2hr 10min); the trains divide at Atami, so make sure you’re in the right carriage. Alternatively, hop on any of the regular Shinkansen services to Mishima (every 30min; 40min), from where the private Izu-Hakone Railway runs south to Shūzenji (3–4 hourly; 37min; ¥510).

By bus Buses depart from outside Shūzenji Station to Shūzen-ji Onsen (every 10–20min; ¥220), dropping you at a terminal east of the village centre. Buses also depart from here to Shimoda and other destinations around the peninsula.

Tourist information Shūzenji’s tourist information office (daily 9am–5pm; 0558 72 2501, shuzenji.info) is in the city hall, on the main road coming into Shūzen-ji Onsen, a short walk east of the bus terminus.

Car rental Try Nissan ( 0558 72 2332) or Toyota ( 0558 74 0100) – both have branches near Shūzenji Station.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Goyōkan 五葉館 0558 72 2066, goyokan.co.jp. The lack of en-suite facilities at this comfortable ryokan is compensated for by large onsen baths, an affable, English-speaking owner, and cool, colour-coded rooms which are surprisingly modern for such a far-flung town. It’s located a few doors down to the east of Yukairō Kikuya, and behind a latticework facade. ¥17,000

Hostel Knot 0558 78 0261, hostelknot.com. A relatively new addition to the town’s accommodation scene, and they’ve really nailed it – a perfect mix of old-school charm and modern comfort. The whole place has been immaculately designed (the dorms are almost more attractive than the tatami private rooms), and staff are adept at providing travel advice. Dorms ¥4200, private rooms ¥9200

Nanaban なゝ番 On the main road east of the Shūzen-ji Onsen bus terminal 0558 72 0007. You’ll find plenty of atmosphere at this rustic soba restaurant. Though they serve reasonably priced rice and noodle dishes, their speciality is Zen-dera soba, in which you dip cold soba in an eye-watering, do-it-yourself sauce of sesame and freshly grated horseradish – it’s said to bring you the blessings of Buddha, so is surely a bargain at ¥1350. 10am–4pm; closed Thurs.

Okura おくら On the main road east of the Shūzen-ji Onsen bus terminal 0558 73 2266. In the evening, head to this friendly little izakaya, opposite Nanaban, with an English menu and well-priced set meals from around ¥1300. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm.

Yukairō Kikuya 湯回廊菊屋 0558 72 2000. One of the nicest places to stay hereabouts, this elegant ryokan – patronized most famously by the writer Natsume Sōseki – sits under a high-peaked roof immediately opposite the bus station. Two meals included. ¥36,000

SHŪZEN-JI’S SHOGUNS

During the Kamakura period (1185–1333), Shūzen-ji was a favourite place of exile for the shoguns’ potential rivals. In 1193 Minamoto Noriyori, the younger brother of Shogun Yoritomo, committed suicide – some say he was murdered – after being banished here on suspicion of treason. A more famous death occurred soon after when Minamoto Yoriie was murdered in the bath. Yoriie was the son of Yoritomo and had succeeded to the title of Shogun in 1199, aged only 18. Four years later his mother, Hōjō Masako, and grandfather seized power and sent Yoriie packing to Shūzen-ji, where he started planning his revenge. His plot, however, was discovered in 1204, and not long afterwards Yoriie was found dead, supposedly killed by bathing in poisoned water.

ONSEN IN SHŪZEN-JI

The town’s most famous onsen, Tokko-no-yu, is now considered too public to be used for bathing, though you can soak your feet here. There are, however, other onsen just a short walk away, and most guesthouses here open their facilities to non-guests for around ¥1000.

Hako-yu 筥湯. This old-style building with a watchtower near Tokko-no-yu offers a lovely cedarwood onsen bath. Daily noon–9pm; ¥350.

Yu-no-sato-mura 湯の郷村. Follow the path west from Tokko-no-yu along the river, meandering across pretty bridges and through bamboo groves, and 400m later you’ll emerge near this bathhouse, which is complete with both rotemburo and sauna. Daily 9am–10pm; ¥700 for 1hr, ¥950 no time limit.

Izu-Ōshima

伊豆大島

Some 110km south of Tokyo, IZU-ŌSHIMA, or simply Ōshima, is the nearest and largest of the Izu-Shotō, a chain of seven volcanic islands stretching over 300km of ocean. While the other volcanoes are now dormant, Ōshima’s Mihara-yama (764m) does occasionally smoulder; its most recent major eruption took place in 1986, when the island was evacuated, but fortunately for much of the time it simply steams away. Mihara-yama found fame as the location for the Godzilla films, for which the barren lava fields provided a fittingly apocalyptic backdrop. Other than the volcano, Ōshima’s main draw is its forests of camellia. Things get pretty busy with visitors on summer weekends; for the forests, springtime is best, since the blossoms of an estimated three million trees colour the lower slopes a dusky red, an event celebrated with a month-long festival (Feb–March) of folk dances and other events. Whenever you visit, try to stay at least one night, to experience the slow pace of island life.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE IZU-ŌSHIMA

By plane Prop-planes run by New Central Airservice ( www.central-air.co.jp) fly to Ōshima (2 daily; 25min) from Tokyo’s minor Chōfu airport, not too far west of Shinjuku.

By jetfoil The best way of getting to Ōshima is on one of the jetfoils (2–3 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr 10min; ¥7210) operated by Tōkai Kisen ( 03 5472 9999, www.tokaikisen.co.jp) from Tokyo’s Takeshiba pier, two stops from Shimbashi on the Yurikamome monorail. They dock either at Motomachi or at the tiny port of Okata (岡田), 7km away on the more sheltered north coast, depending on the weather. Remember to check which port it’s leaving from for the return journey, either by going to the port terminal in Motomachi or asking at your accommodation. Tōkai Kisen also operate jetfoils from Atami (1–2 daily; 45min; ¥4590).

By ferry Tōkai Kisen also runs a ferry service (1 daily July & Aug; 1 daily except Tues Sept–June; 4hr 20min–8hr; from ¥4450), occasionally via Yokohama. Outward sailings leave from Tokyo’s Takeshiba pier at 10pm or 11pm, arriving in Motomachi or Okata early the next morning, while the return boat departs early afternoon, getting back to Tokyo the same evening; times vary, so check locally for the current schedule.

GETTING AROUND

By bus There are at least nine services daily on the main route running north from Motomachi to Okata (20min; ¥360) and Ōshima Park (35min; ¥550) via the airport. The second main route takes you south from Motomachi to Habu (9–11 daily; 35min; ¥670) on the island’s southeastern tip. Buses also head up Mihara-yama from Motomachi (5 daily; 25min; ¥860) and Ōshima-kōen (2 daily; 25min; ¥840).

By car By far the best way of getting around the island is with your own transport. There are a number of car rental outfits, including Toyota ( 04992 21611) and local company Ōshima Rent-a-Car ( 04992 21043). Rates start at around ¥5500 for the smallest car for up to six hours, and the car will be delivered to the port if you book in advance.

By bike and scooter You can rent bicycles (¥1500/day), mountain bikes (¥2500/day) and scooters (¥5000/day) from three outlets on the road heading inland and uphill from Motomachi ferry terminal; they’re all on the right. Cyclists usually have a stab at a circuit of the island (44km; 4–6hr), which is best tackled anticlockwise.

Taxis A taxi from Motomachi to Okata will cost around ¥3000, to the airport around ¥1500; call Ōshima Kankō Jidōsha on 04992 21051.

INFORMATION

Tourist information The tourist office (daily 8.30am–5pm; 04992 22177, izu-oshima.or.jp) is across the road from the ferry terminal. They provide maps, bus timetables and a wealth of other information, though very little in English. You can also pick up basic maps at the ferry terminal in Okata.

Opening hours The island is essentially closed for business by 8pm, including almost all shops. A couple of eating places in Motomachi stay open until 11pm or so.

Money There’s a post office with ATM on the main road in Motomachi, though you’re advised to bring along enough cash to cover your stay.

Motomachi

元町

Ōshima’s main town, MOTOMACHI, is generally a sleepy little place which only springs into action when a ferry docks. It is, however, the hub of island life, where you’ll find most of the facilities, and it makes a good base for exploring the island. There’s a very nice black-sand beach, Kobō-hama (弘法浜), a short walk to the south – a grand spot for a sunset swim or an evening drink.

Museum of Volcanoes

火山博物館, Kazan Hakubutsukan • Around 600m from the port, on the town’s southern outskirts • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 04992 24103

The rather grand Museum of Volcanoes was built after the 1986 eruption partly to lure tourists back to the island. Nothing much is labelled in English, though few things – lumps of volcanic rocks, video footage of eruptions, and the like – really need explaining.

Hama-no-yu

浜の湯 • 300m north of the ferry terminal • Daily: July & Aug 11am–7pm; Sept–June 1–7pm • ¥300

The best of Motomachi’s several onsen baths is Hama-no-yu, a big public rotemburo on the cliff edge. It’s the perfect spot for watching the sun go down – particularly on clear days, when Mount Fuji’s silhouette adds a poetic touch. Note that the bathing is mixed; you’ll need to bring a swimming costume.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING MOTOMACHI

Akamon ホテル赤門 04992 21213, ooshima-akamon.com. The most luxurious accommodation hereabouts, with a choice of tatami or Western-style rooms (the latter in separate chalet-style cottages), an attractive rotemburo and onsen bath, and excellent seafood meals. To find it, walk up the road heading inland from the ferry terminal, then take the first left where you’ll see its distinctive red gates at the end of the lane. Rates include two meals. ¥28,000

Mandarin Island マンダリンアイランドホテル 04992 20600, mandarin.a-asia.net. About as cheap a place to stay as you’ll get in Motomachi, and nothing to write home about, though there’s an outdoor pool for summer use, and the secluded location (a short walk east of the town centre) means that you’ll most likely get a good sleep. ¥10,000

Otomodachi おともだち 04992 20061. The most reliable of the row of little eating places opposite the port, serving a broad range of reasonably priced set meals; ¥1000 will buy you a generous meal, though you’ll have to pay double that for one featuring kin-me-dai, a tasty local fish. Daily 7am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Sushikō 寿し光 04992 20888. This moderately swanky restaurant has sushi and sashimi sets from ¥1000, as well as pizzas, salads, donburi and the like. It’s upstairs in a modern building just south of the ferry terminal, on the left. Daily 11am–2pm & 5–11pm.

Yocchan よっちゃん. Open later than most places in town, and with views over the ocean from its tables out back, this tiny snack hut is a good evening target – most customers here are salty sea dogs knocking back beer (¥350) and yakitori (¥150 and up), or some fried yakionigiri rice-balls (¥500). Mon–Sat 6–11pm.

Okata

岡田

There’s a fifty-fifty chance that your ferry or jetfoil will arrive in OKATA, rather than Motomachi. In many ways, it’s a more characterful place than its bigger brother, a salty sort of village backed by steep hills, which feels cut off from the rest of the island, giving a genuine sense of remoteness to those who choose to stay here. There are plenty of accommodation options and a few places to eat (most stop serving after 7pm), although not all that much to actually do.

THE IZU ISLANDS

Ōshima is merely the first, and – at 52km in circumference – the largest, of the Izu Islands (伊豆諸島, Izu-shotō), which dot the ocean in a skinny line stretching for more than 1000km. Given that they’re all officially part of Tokyo, this makes the Japanese capital the longest city on earth, at least in an administrative sense. Most of these islands see very few international visitors, since reaching them involves spending hours (even days) on a ferry, or splashing out on a prop-plane ticket; New Central Airservice ( www.central-air.co.jp) fly from Tokyo’s little-known Chōfu airport to some islands, while ferries run from piers between Hinode and Takeshiba stations on Tokyo Bay. Each of the main islands has its own distinctive draw:

Nii-jima (2hr 20min from Tokyo by jetfoil; 9hr on overnight ferry; 40min by plane). Famed for its beaches, this island has developed a reputation for (occasionally debauched) summer weekend parties. Maehama beach, out west, is popular for windsurfing, though most scenic is the long, cliff-backed Habishi beach, over on the east side.

Miyake-jima (6hr 30min from Tokyo on overnight ferry; 50min by plane). Like a little Fuji jutting out of the sea, this volcano-island has been active in recent times – due to belches of sulphuric gas it was completely evacuated in 2000, with its residents only returning in 2005. It boasts great hiking trails through camellia and hydrangea, and beaches next to lava flows.

Mikura-jima (45min from Miyake-jima on fishing boat). A little south of Miyake-jima, this small island is famed for its dolphins, with tours operating March–Oct.

Ogasawara Islands (25hr from Tokyo by ferry). As far south as Okinawa’s main island, the subtropical islands of Chichi-jima and Haha-jima take more than a day to get to by ferry. Never having been connected to a continental landmass, their unique flora and fauna has seen them dubbed the “Galapagos of the Orient”.

ACCOMMODATION OKATA

Kichiyō 吉陽 04992 75871, to-on.info. Tucked into a charming alley just opposite the ferry terminal, this friendly backpacker venue (the only one on the island) has room for twenty in its four tatami rooms. ¥5000

Mihara-yama

三原山 • Bus from Motomachi (5 daily; 25min; ¥860) or Ōshima-kōen (2 daily; 25min; ¥840)

From Motomachi the road climbs steeply up the mostly grassy slopes of Mihara-yama, affording good views over Motomachi and the island’s west coast and, if you’re lucky, northwest across Izu Hantō to Mount Fuji. At the top, a clutch of souvenir shops sits on the rim of a much older crater, from where you get your first sight of the smouldering new summit, its flanks streaked with black ribbons left by the 1986 lava flows. A path leads 2.2km across the floor of the old crater, where grasses are gradually recolonizing the black, volcanic soils, and up to the new summit, from where you can peek down into the new crater’s sulphurous pit.

From here, you can continue for another 2.5km round the rim and either return to the car park or walk down the northern slopes to rejoin the road 3km further down, but still 500m above sea level, near the Ōshima Onsen Hotel (大島温泉ホテル). The hotel itself is rather dilapidated and overpriced, but its rotemburo (daily 1–9pm; ¥800) offers a great view of the volcano.

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TOWADA ART CENTER

Northern Honshū

Aizu-Wakamatsu and around

Fukushima and around

Yamagata

Zaō Onsen

Sendai

Matsushima Bay

Oshika Hantō

Hiraizumi and around

Kesennuma

The Tōno valley

Morioka

Hachinohe and around

Shimokita Hantō

Aomori

Towada-ko and around

Hirosaki

Akita and around

Kakunodate

Tsuruoka

Dewa-sanzan

Northern Honshū

When the poet Matsuo Bashō set out to travel along the “narrow road to the deep north” in 1689, he commented, somewhat despondently, “I might as well be going to the ends of the earth.” Even today, many urban Japanese regard the harsh mountainous provinces of northern Honshū as irredeemably backward. Not that the region is all thatched farmhouses and timeless agricultural vistas, but certainly rural traditions have survived here longer than in many other parts of the country. However, it doesn’t take long to encounter the huge array of festivals, and nor do you have to delve deep to discover the rich heritage of folk tales and traces of ancient religious practices that give northern Honshū a deliciously mysterious tang.

Northern Honshū, or Tōhoku, was the last part of Japan’s main island to be brought under central control. As such, it boasts more in the way of military sights – ruined castles, samurai towns and aristocratic tombs – than great temples or religious foundations. The one glorious exception comes north of Sendai at the otherwise insignificant town of Hiraizumi, where the opulent Golden Hall (Konjiki-dō) has to be seen to be believed. In contrast, the archetypal north-country town lies not far away at Tōno, often referred to as the birthplace of Japanese folklore, where goblin-like kappa inhabit local rivers, fairy children scamper through old farmhouses, and secretive shrines hark back to primitive cults. Darker forces are also at work further north, where souls in purgatory haunt the volcanic wasteland of Osore-zan, on the hammerhead peninsula of Shimokita Hantō. In summer, pilgrims come here to consult blind mediums, while further west, the holy mountain range of Dewa-sanzan is home to yamabushi, ascetic priests endowed with mystical powers.

Apart from during festival season in summer, Tōhoku’s cities tend to be less exciting than elsewhere in Japan. Sendai, though, which is by far the largest, is a dynamic urban centre that’s home to a dramatic hilltop mausoleum, while the lanes and backstreets of Morioka abound in charm, and Aomori in the far north is thriving, thanks to its new Shinkansen link with Hokkaidō, and also holds a magnificent ancient relic, the so-called Sannai-Maruyama Site. Unpretentious coastal Hachinohe and Kesennuma give you a glimpse of everyday life in fishing ports, and a chance to contribute to the recovery effort after the 2011 tsunami. Smaller towns not be missed include Kakunodate, inland between Morioka and Akita, with its samurai mansions and riverside cherry-tree “tunnel”.

Tōhoku’s splendid scenery ranges from prolific rice fields and cosseted orchards to wild rugged coastlines and the pine-studded islands of Matsushima Bay. Its central spine of soaring mountains provides excellent opportunities for hiking and skiing, notably around Zaō Onsen, Urabandai and the more northerly Towada-Hachimantai area. All three are noted for their flora and fauna, including black bears in remoter districts, while Towada-ko itself is a massive crater lake accessed via the picturesque Oirase valley, and near the revitalised Towada City, with its surprising, thriving art scene.

The ideal time to visit is either spring or autumn, when the scenery is at its finest, and before the coastal plans start to swelter and everything gets too busy. In early August, thousands of visitors flock to the Tōhoku Sandai Matsuri, the region’s three big festivals in Sendai, Aomori and Akita – they are Sendai Tanabata Festival, Nebuta Festival and Kanto Festival respectively. If you’re travelling at this time, make sure to sort out transport and accommodation well in advance. Apart from ski resorts, many tourist facilities outside the major cities shut down from early November to late April.

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TŌNO VALLEY

Highlights

Matsushima Bay Studded with templetopped islands, celebrated by poets, and home to succulent oysters, this stunning bay makes a wonderful day-trip from Sendai.

Hiraizumi A tiny but extraordinary golden shrine bears witness to this sleepy riverside town’s role as a Buddhist powerhouse, almost a thousand years ago.

Cycling in the Tōno valley Pedal your way through a lush valley, nestling between wooded hills, where every rice paddy and old farmhouse seems to have its own intriguing legend.

Sannai-Maruyama Site Showcasing the hillside homes and mysterious artefacts of the ancient Jōmon people, this verdant archeological site is a true-life treasure-trove.

Towada Art Centre Explore a city revitalised by modern art, which is centred around this innovative gallery that is full of interactive, playful works.

Kakunodate Discover the samurai heritage of the appealing town of Kakunodate, including streets of gloriously preserved grand houses with extensive, impeccably maintained gardens.

Dewa-sanzan Visit one of Japan’s most sacred mountains and spend a day or two with the legendary yamabushi priests.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

GETTING AROUND NORTHERN HONSHŪ

By plane Northern Honshū has several international flight connections, with services from China, Russia, South Korea and Taiwan coming into Aomori, Fukushima, Niigata and Sendai airports. These airports, along with those at Akita, Iwate Hanamaki, Shōnai near Tsuruoka, and Yamagata, are also served by flights to and from domestic destinations all over Japan.

By train The Tōhoku Shinkansen runs the full length of northern Honshū, parallel to but well inland from the east coast, and passing through such cities as Sendai, Morioka and Hachinohe, all the way to Aomori. Since 2016 the line has even continued to Hokkaidō, burrowing beneath the sea via the Seikan Tunnel. Spur lines also branch west, to Shinjō via Yamagata and to Akita via Kakunodate. In addition, smaller JR and private lines thread through the region. JR East offers no fewer than three regional rail passes for the area ( jreast.co.jp/e/pass): the East Pass, Tōhoku Area (valid for 5 days in a 14-day period; ¥19,350 when purchased abroad/¥20,360 in Japan); the Tōhoku-South Hokkaidō pass (valid for 5 days in a 14-day period; ¥19,750/¥20,790); and the JR East-South Hokkaidō pass (valid for 6 days out in a 14-day period; ¥26,900/¥27,930).

THE RECOVERY COAST

The Great East Japan Earthquake of March 11, 2011, was the largest ever recorded in Japan, at magnitude of 9.0. It triggered a tsunami that devastated the eastern coast of Tōhoku, with some waves exceeding 40m in height. Almost 19,000 people died, the highest casualties occurring in such places as Ishinomaki and the steel manufacturing centre of Kamaishi. The tsunami also knocked out the power at Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant, causing its three functioning reactors to go into meltdown – the worst nuclear disaster since Chernobyl. An exclusion zone remains in force around the reactor, but this is less than 3 percent of Fukushima prefecture's area, and all the sites you may want to visit are well within safe levels of radiation for habitation – and, it goes without saying, for short visits.

Thanks to a colossal reconstruction programme (which incorporates stronger defences against any future tsunami), normal life is returning to Tōhoku. In 2013, 220km of coastline – stretching from Hachinohe in the north to Kesennuma in the south, and soon to be extended down to Matsushima – was designated the Sanriku Fukkō National Park ( env.go.jp/park/sanriku). The aim is to use ecotourism to help the area's reconstruction and protect the natural environment for future generations. Walking a section of the Michinoku Coastal Trail (which includes over 1000km of trails from Kabushima in Hachinohe, Aomori-ken, to Matsukawaura Bay in Sōma city, Fukushima-ken; see michinokutrail.com) is a great way to get a sense of this region, with its rugged coastal scenery, picturesque villages and bustling fishing communities. The ongoing recovery effort, and the much-needed income which tourism brings, are just one more reason to add this beautiful region to your itinerary.

By bus Public buses can be sporadic at the best of times, with many services stopping completely in winter, when heavy snowfalls close the mountain roads. Check timetables and connections with local tourist offices before you set off.

By car As public transport is limited, especially in rural areas, so where possible, car rental is definitely worth considering.

Aizu-Wakamatsu and around

会津若松

Centuries ago, AIZU-WAKAMATSU, in the heart of southern Tōhoku 300km from Tokyo, was an important castle town on the main trunk road north. Set in the middle of a wide valley near one of Japan’s largest lakes, Inawashiro-ko – part of Bandai-Asahi National Park – is rather off the beaten track these days, but its history is sufficiently dramatic to attract tourists and pilgrims alike. Most come on day-trips, to tour such sights as its reconstructed castle keep, an attractive samurai house, and the graves of nineteen young casualties of the Boshin War. Be warned, though, that Aizu-Wakamatsu sprawls across a considerable area, making it much too large to explore comfortably on foot.

Iimori-yama

飯盛山 • Daily: Jan–March 9am–4pm; April–Dec 8.15am–sunset • Free • iimoriyama.jp

From Aizu-Wakamatsu Station in the northwest of the city, Byakko-dōri heads to the foothills 2.5km east, to reach Iimori-yama, famous as the spot where a group of young soldiers killed themselves during one of the final battles of the Meiji Restoration in 1868. The warriors of Aizu were among the few clans to put up serious opposition to the imperial armies, and the Byakkotai (White Tigers) were one of several bands of young fanatics who joined up. Twenty of them, all aged around sixteen, were cut off from their comrades. Trying to reach the safety of Tsuruga-jō, they climbed Iimori-yama, only to think they saw the castle in flames. Assuming the battle to be lost, they committed seppuku, ritual suicide by disembowelment. Although in fact the castle was not burning, the boys are still revered as heroes.

Scaling the hill’s steep staircases takes roughly 10min; alternatively, there’s a handy escalator (¥250). At the top, an imperial eagle – a gift from the Italian Fascist Party in 1928 – dominates the small clearing, and underlines the disturbing aspects of the story. Apart from one boy who was saved before he bled to death, the rest lie buried in the row of graves to the left. Twice each year, on April 24 and Sept 24, proud parents watch as local schoolboys of the same age re-enact the suicides. The whole site is heavily commercialized, with cafés and souvenir shops alongside displays and exhibitions.

Sazae-dō

さざえ堂 • Daily: Jan–March 9am–4pm; April–Dec 8.15am–sunset • ¥400

Sazae-dō, just downhill from Iimori-yama, is an elegant and extraordinary octagonal wooden building erected in 1796 as part of a larger temple complex. Resembling a pagoda, it’s a unique structure, in which two external ramped walkways spiral around a central column, inside which are sealed 33 statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy.

Buke-yashiki

武家屋敷 • Daily: April–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4.30pm • ¥850 • 024 228 2525, bukeyashiki.com • On Haikara-san and Akabe bus routes from station

Buke-yashiki, a magnificent reproduction of a nineteenth-century samurai residence, nestles against the foothills 4km southeast of the station; with time to spare, it’s fun to walk along the demanding and hard-to-find footpath that winds along the hillside here from Iimori-yama, 2km north. This spacious compound once belonged to Saigō Tanomo, a chief retainer of the Aizu clan, and its 38 rooms range from a sand-box toilet and cypress bathtub to a “classy reception room” reserved for the Lord of Aizu. When Saigō went off to fight in 1868, he left his wife and daughters, aged between 2 and 16, at home. As the imperial army closed in, the family decided to commit suicide rather than be taken prisoner. The 16-year-old didn't die immediately but was killed soon after by an enemy soldier – mannequins in the relevant room re-enact the scene – and the house was set on fire.

The complex also includes several original buildings brought from surrounding villages, including what’s labelled as a “feudal clan style rice polishing area” and a thatched shrine.

Tsuruga-jō

鶴ヶ城 • 1-1 Ōte-machi • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥410, ¥510 with tea • 024 227 4005, tsurugajo.com

The large park that surrounds the original site of Aizu-Wakamatsu’s castle, Tsuruga-jō, is 2.7km south of the station, on the far side of downtown. Set between massive stone ramparts and looming over a moat, the castle’s imposing entrance rather dwarfs the dainty white keep inside.

Built in 1384, Tsuruga-jō was besieged by Meiji troops for several months in 1868, before the Aizu clan finally surrendered. The new government ordered it to be demolished and it lay in ruins until 1965, when the central keep was rebuilt – it now houses an uninteresting local history museum – and the garden is landscaped.

The castle is the focus of the city’s main festival (Sept 22–24), which includes a procession of samurai and ceremonies for the Byakkotai.

Fukushima Museum

福島県立博物館, Fukushima Kenritsu Hakubutsukan • 1-25 Jōtō-machi • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • ¥280 • 024 228 6000, www.general-museum.fks.ed.jp

The ultra-modern Fukushima Museum, outside the east gate of Tsuruga-jō but still within the castle park, covers local history from mock-ups of Jōmon-period huts (2000 BC) to a charcoal-driven bus from the 1930s. The displays are well presented, with sufficient English for non-Japanese speakers to get the gist of what’s going on.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AIZU-WAKAMATSU

By train Trains on the scenic JR Ban’etsu line run east to the nearest Shinkansen station, Koriyama, one stop south of Fukushima on the Tōhoku line. Ban’etsu trains also head northwest towards the coast; one daily goes all the way to Niigata, but for west-coast destinations it’s more usual to have to change at Niitsu, 20km inland. The most attractive approach to Aizu-Wakamatsu is via the private Tōbu and Aizu lines, which provide connections all the way to Nikkō.

Destinations Kitakata (8 daily; 15min); Koriyama (hourly; 1hr 10min); Niigata (1 daily; 2hr 40min); Niitsu (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Nikkō (1 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr).

Tourist information Aizu-Wakamatsu has two helpful tourist offices, one in the train station (daily 9am–5.30pm; 024 232 0688, samurai-city.jp/en) and the other inside the castle’s north gate (daily 8.30am–5pm; 024 227 4005). Both have English-speaking staff, and give out excellent English-language hand-drawn maps to the city.

GETTING AROUND

By bus City buses depart from outside the train station every 20min for Buke-yashiki (Akabe; platform 4), or you can catch the splendid vintage Haikara-san loop-line buses (clockwise or anticlockwise) from platform 6 to Tsuruga-jō, Buke-yashiki and Iimori-yama. Single journeys cost ¥210, or you can buy an all-day pass for ¥500.

By bike Ask at the station tourist office for details of the city’s bike-rental scheme (¥500/day).

By car Eki Rent-a-Car have an office in the station building ( 024 224 5171, www.ekiren.co.jp).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Aizuno Youth Hostel 会津野ユースホステル 88 Kakiyashiki, Terasaki Aizu-Takada-chō 024 255 1020, aizuno.com. Neat, scrupulously maintained little hostel, amid the rice fields 12km west of Aizu-Wakamatsu, which offers bunk beds in shared rooms, as well as singles, twins and family rooms, plus good food (breakfast around ¥600, dinner ¥1100) and bike rental. To get here, take the JR Tadami line to Aizu-Takada Station (20min from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station), then walk for just over 2km northwest, first heading straight ahead from the station, then turning right at the second intersection. Dorms ¥5400, rooms ¥10,000

Ekimae Fuji Grand Hotel 駅前フジグランドホテル 5-25 Ekimae-machi 024 224 1111, fujigrandhotel.co.jp. Big, busy and rather monolithic red-brick business hotel, right outside Aizu Wakamatsu Station. Guests have free admission to the adjoining onsen. Some of the older rooms are a tad careworn, but it’s really not bad value. ¥9000

Mitsutaya 満田屋 1-1-25 Ōmachi 024 227 1345, www.mitsutaya.jp. This striking historic structure, on the western edge of downtown 1.3km south of the station, started life almost two centuries ago as a bean-paste mill. It’s now a local foodie favourite thanks to its dengaku, charcoal-grilled skewers of rice, tofu and/or vegetables. You can eat a good lunch here for under ¥1500. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–5pm.

Takino 田季野 5-31 Sakae-machi 024 225 0808, www.takino.jp. Tucked into the downtown backstreets, southeast of where Chūō-dōri meets Nanokomachi-dōri junction, the beautiful old building is a little tricky to find, but it’s worth it to sample tasty food such as the house speciality wappa-meshi, a wooden box of steamed rice with various toppings such as flowering fern (zenmai), mushrooms (kinoko), fish or seafood. Expect to pay around ¥1500, including pickles and soup. Daily 11am–9pm.

Washington Hotel 会津若松ワシントンホテル 201 Byakko-machi 024 222 6111, washington-hotels.jp/aizuwakamatsu. Large, reliable chain hotel, less than a 5min walk straight ahead (east) of Aizu-Wakamatsu Station along Byakko-dōri, and offering comfortable rooms, a coffee lounge, a bar and a tenth-floor restaurant, serving Japanese and Western meals. Rates include breakfast. ¥9000

Kitakata

喜多方

With its mountain climate and abundant supplies of pure water, the area surrounding Aizu-Wakamatsu is famous for high-quality sake. On a day-trip to the centre of production, KITAKATA, 17km north of Aizu, you can visit a brewery as well as several distinctive kura (traditional storehouses). At some point, such a craze for constructing these fireproof storehouses, encased in thick mud walls, swept through Kitakata that the town is now said to hold more than two thousand. Including the more recent brick versions, they’re built in an extraordinary range of styles, and today even the post office and other public offices hide behind kura facades. There are plenty of prime examples in the compact central district.

Yamatogawa Sake Brewing Museum

大和川酒蔵北方風土館, Yamatogawa Shuzō Kitakata Fūdokan • 4761 Tera-machi • Daily 9am–4.30pm • Free • 012 060 2233, bit.ly/yamatogawa

The Yamatogawa Sake Brewing Museum, 1km north of the station, occupies an attractive collection of seven kura. Sake was made here from 1790 to 1990, before production moved to a new automated plant. After a guided tour – aided by a brief English pamphlet – you’ll get the opportunity to taste a few samples. Note the sugadama (globe of cedar fronds) hanging in the entrance hall. Traditionally, breweries hang a green cedar ball outside in March, when the freshly brewed sake is put in vats to age; by September the browned foliage indicates that it’s ready to drink.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KITAKATA

By train Kitakata Station, on the south side of town, is on the Ban’etsu West line from Aizu-Wakamatsu (8 daily; 15min). Walk north for around 10min to reach the historic core.

Tourist information Kitakata’s main tourist office is at the station (daily 8.30am–5pm; 024 124 2633, kitakata-kanko.jp). Their website includes a detailed English-language map and guide.

Bike rental Rental bikes are available at the Satō and Akutagawa shops, opposite the station (both daily 8am–6pm; from ¥250/hr, ¥1000/day).

EATING

Kitakata is renowned for its ramen, and holds nearly a hundred outlets from which to choose.

Makoto Shokudō まこと食堂 7116 Odazuki-michishita 024 122 0232. Kitakata’s most famous ramen place, in the backstreets east of the main shopping street, Chūō-dōri, has atmospheric old tatami rooms. As well as noodles for around ¥1000, they serve other, similarly inexpensive, dishes. Tues–Sun 7.30am–3pm.

Bandai Azuma-Inawashiro

磐梯吾妻猪苗代

The BANDAI AZUMA-INAWASHIRO region is the southeastern section of the Bandai-Asahi National Park, along with Iide to the west and Dewa-sanzan to the northwest. The area is characterised by its dramatic landscape, from deep, mirror-smooth Lake Inawashiro to the looming, cloud-shrouded mass of volcanic Mount Bandai. In the winter, it's a popular skiing destination.

Japan's fourth-largest lake, Inawashiro-ko (猪苗代湖) is an impressive sight, particularly when Tundra swans migrate to its beaches for the winter. Its many campsites make it a great base for outdoor holidays, with wild swimming, hiking, kayaking and cycling among the activities on offer.

To the north, Goshikinuma (五色沼) in the Urabandai area makes for a gentle but rewarding hike (there's a tougher trek to the summit of Mount Bandai from the western end of Goshikinuma's 3.5km path). Its name, "five-coloured pools", refers to the startlingly bright lakes and ponds dotted around the area, formed after a devastating volcanic eruption in 1888, each of which has a distinctive cocktail of minerals turning it blue, green or red.

The nearby Morohashi Museum of Modern Art (諸橋近代美術館, Morohashi Kindai Bijutsukan; late April to late Nov daily 9.30am–5pm; ¥950; dali.jp/en) houses over 300 works of art by Salvador Dalí, a truly surreal surprise in this natural landscape, and well worth a visit.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION BANDAI AZUMA-INAWASHIRO

By train Aizu-Wakamatsu and Inawashiro stations are connected by the JR Ban’etsu West line (1–2 hourly; 30min), which continues to Koriyama (1–2 hourly; 40min).

By bus From Inawashiro, the Bandai Toto bus heads to the Urabandai area (several daily; 30min; totobus.co.jp/bandai), stopping at the Morohashi Museum of Modern Art (¥780) and Goshikinuma (¥790).

Tourist information There's a tourist information centre in the town of Urabandai (daily 9am–5pm; 024 132 2349, www.urabandai-inf.com/en). Online-wise, bandaisan.or.jp/ib/en and inawashiroko.jp/web are also useful.

ACCOMMODATION

Bandai Lakeside Guesthouse バンダイレークサイドゲストハウス 1096-444 Soharayama Hibara, Urabandai 024 123 8757, bandai.ski. Well-kept guesthouse on the shores of Lake Sohara, where the English-speaking hosts work hard to make everyone feel welcome, from vegetarian and Halal menus to Pride flags in the bar. There's a shared kitchen, onsen bath (daily 5pm–9am), bike rental (¥500/hr; April–Nov) and even canoe and snowshoe rental (¥1500/hr), and they can help you arrange activities. Breakfast included, dinner ¥1500. Free shuttle from Inawashiro Station. Dorms ¥4320, doubles ¥13,770

Bandaisan Onsen Hotel 磐梯山温泉ホテル 6838-68 Sarashina Shimizudaira, Bandai-machi 050 3786 1144, bandaisan.co.jp/en. Resort hotel right by the ski lifts for Alts Snow Park, enlivened by well-considered design touches in the larger-than-average rooms. At the bar, there are dozens of varieties of sake from the region to enjoy, while the restaurant serves local speciality wappa meshi (rice dishes in round wooden boxes) and freshly made soba. Shuttle buses are available from Bandai-machi and Koriyama stations. Breakfast included, dinner around ¥4000. ¥21,800

Fukushima and around

福島

Friendly, unpretentious FUKUSHIMA is often overlooked by overseas visitors – in no small part because it shares a name with Fukushima Daiichi, the nuclear power plant over 90km away which went into meltdown after the 2011 tsunami. But not only is it safe to visit (the city was never evacuated, and radiation levels are comparable to other cities like Hong Kong), there's plenty of reason to stop by for a couple of nights.

Known for its fresh fruit, especially the delectable sweet peaches harvested in July and August, it's no surprise that there's plenty of good food in Fukushima. Though the cityscape isn't particularly inspiring, there are hidden historic corners like the Shōwa-era building Ogura-tei (御倉邸; Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–6pm; free), and bustling districts like Bunka-dōri with its independent cafés and vintage clothing stores. It's also a great base for hiking in the surrounding mountains.

Mount Shinobu

信夫山

The centre of Fukushima is bounded by the Abukuma River and Hanamiyama (a perfect cherry blossom-viewing spot) to the west and Mount Shinobu to the north. The mountain provides a fine view of the city from its observation decks, the most accessible just 15 minutes' walk up from Mount Shinobu Park. Continue on the steep paths and you'll reach a tiny Neko Inari shrine, dedicated to cats, and finally – after a rocky scramble up the last 140m – Haguro-jinja. Here, you can see Japan's largest straw sandal (waraji), 12m long and weighing over 2 tons; it takes 100 people to carry it during the lively Waraji Matsuri (first weekend in Aug; waraji.co.jp).

Beyond the mountain, the railway line continues to Iizaka Onsen, one of the three excellent hot spring towns around Fukushima. Iizaka is known for its traditional atmosphere, while Takayu (to the west) has the best variety of hot spring waters, and Tsuchiyu (to the southwest) a lovely natural setting and interesting local crafts; you can decorate a kokeshi here for just ¥950 at a local shop, Matsuya.

Fukushima Prefectural Museum of Art

福島県立美術館, Fukushima Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 1 Nishiyōzan Moriai • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • ¥270 • 024 531 5511, art-museum.fcs.ed.jp

At the foot of Mount Shinobu, the Fukushima Prefectural Museum of Art has almost 4000 works in its collection, including some beautiful pieces by artists such as Kishida Ryūsei, Saitō Kiyoshi and Ben Shahn. The light, airy building is set within attractive grounds dotted with sculptures.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION FUKUSHIMA AND AROUND

By train Fukushima Station is on the Tōhoku and Yamagata Shinkansen lines, as well as several local lines.

Destinations Iizaka Onsen (1–4 hourly; 25min); Koriyama (2–3 hourly; 15–50min); Sendai (4 hourly; 25min); Tokyo (1–3 hourly; 1hr 30min–2hr); Yamagata (hourly; 1hr 10min).

Tourist information There are two tourist information centres in Fukushima Station; there's almost always someone who speaks English at the West Exit centre (daily 9am–6pm; 024 531 6428, fukushima-guide.jp). Their website is very helpful, too.

GETTING AROUND

By bus The Momorin City Loop Bus, from the East Exit of the station, covers most of the main sights (every 20min; ¥100).

Bike rental With most of the sights within a couple of kilometres of the station, to the north and east, Fukushima is a great city to explore by cycling. There is a free Momorin Rental Cycle scheme which operates from five points in the city, conveniently including both station exits (daily 10am–7pm).

ACCOMMODATION

Richmond Hotel Fukushima Ekimae リッチモンドホテル福嶋駅前 1-15 Mikawa Minami-machi 024 526 1255, richmondhotel.jp/en/fukushima. The pick of the business hotels clustered around the station, the Richmond is by the West Exit, next to the Corasse building, which houses the Fukushima Prefecture Products Promotion Centre. Rooms are a good size, staff are helpful and friendly, and there's a generous breakfast buffet (¥950). ¥14,100

Yumori Onsen Hostel ユモリ温泉ホステル 1-7 Dō-no-ue, Tsuchiyu Onsen 024 595 2170, yumori-hostel.jp. Modern onsen hotel attached to the venerable Sansuisō ryokan. Owner Moe has worked hard to make it foreigner-friendly, with multilingual staff, tattoos allowed in the baths (¥700 for day visitors; private baths ¥2000–3500), a well-equipped kitchen for guests' use, and a cosy lounge. Rooms (Japanese and Western style) are a good size, and the dormitory beds feel spacious and private. Breakfast is excellent (¥800, or ¥1500 traditional Japanese breakfast at Sansuisō). Regular free shuttle to Fukushima Station. Dorms ¥4450, doubles ¥11,100

EATING AND DRINKING

There are plenty of budget options around the station, but for something more interesting head along Ekimae-dōri and onto Paseo-dōri, or explore Kenchō-dōri. The Prefectural Local Products Promotion Centre (Corasse) is a great place to try local food and sake. Other than delicious fresh fruit, the main speciality in the area in enban gyōza, pork and vegetable dumplings fried close together until crispy, served in one large, round dish.

Coffee Gourmet 珈琲グルメ 7-33 Sakae-machi 024 523 4035. Longstanding local favourite, with the dark wood-panelling, waistcoated serving staff and long menu of a traditional kissaten. The coffee is the main draw, but you can also get classic kissa dishes like thick slices of toast, taco rice and doria (¥600–800), and some very indulgent desserts. Mon–Thurs 11am–10.30pm, Fri & Sat 11am–10.30pm, Sun 11am–9.30pm.

Hanare はなれ　7-8 Okitama-chō 024 524 1999. Cosy, low-lit izakaya hidden behind a sliding metal door. The food is excellent – everything's in Japanese, but give staff a vague idea of what you want and you should end up with a feast. Or, just point at the menu – with dishes like camembert with blueberry sauce (¥630), flame-grilled mackerel (¥630) and crusty garlic bread (¥450), you can't go far wrong. Daily 5.30–11.30pm.

Hitoto ヒトト　9-21 Ōmachi 024 573 0245. Stylish, organic restaurant, a couple of floors up in a building crammed with tiny independent shops and galleries. As well as hot drinks and cakes (usually macrobiotic, often gluten-free), it serves filling lunch sets (around ¥1500) and fresh vegetarian dishes like keema curry (¥1100). Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–3pm.

Mana's Rasoi マナズ・ラソイ 12-12-1 Sakae-machi 024 522 2787, manasgroup.co.jp/manas. Friendly Indian restaurant, with both a la carte and thali options (lunch sets from ¥770, dinner ¥1210). It's also one of the few places where vegetarians can try Japanese karē pan, a delicious, artery-clogging deep-fried bread filled with (usually pork-based) curry – at only ¥55 apiece, you may want some to take away. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–11pm.

Yamagata

山形

Few tourists make it to the large workaday city of YAMAGATA, ringed by high mountains 65km west of Sendai. Apart from a couple of engaging museums, its main attraction is as a base for visiting nearby Yamadera’s atmospheric temples, and Zaō Onsen, an excellent spot for summer hiking and winter skiing. The one time of year when it’s really worth staying longer is in early August, when the major Hanagasa Matsuri engulfs the city in colour and activity.

Central Yamagata occupies a grid of streets immediately northeast of the train station. Its southern boundary is Ekimae-dōri, the broad avenue that leads straight ahead from the station as far as the Castle hotel, where it’s intersected by the main shopping street, Nanokamachi-dōri.

Kajō-kōen

霞城公園

The city’s largest park, Kajō-kōen starts 700m northwest of the station. Originally home to a long-vanished castle, of which only the beautifully restored East Gate now survives, it’s still almost entirely encircled by a moat, and now holds a couple of absorbing museums as well as various municipal sports facilities.

Yamagata Prefectural History Museum

山形県立博物館, Yamagata Kenritsu Hakubutsukan • 1-8 Kajō-machi • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥300 • 023 645 1111, www.yamagata-museum.jp

A hulking concrete building on the eastern side of Kajō-kōen is home to the Yamagata Prefectural History Museum, an entertaining hotch-potch that covers natural history and geology as well as the region’s human story. Displays kick off with fossils and stuffed birds, move on to some dramatic Jōmon artefacts from two thousand years ago, then swing through Yamagata’s period as a castle town before ending with exhibits of local crafts.

Yamagata City Museum

山形市郷土館, Yamagata-shi Kyōdo-kan • 1-1 Kajō-machi • Daily 9am–4.30pm • Free • 023 644 0253, bit.ly/yamagata-folklore

For visitors, the appeal of the Yamagata City Museum, in the southeast corner of Kajō-kōen, lies as much in the rather extraordinary pink octagonal clapboard building in which it’s housed as it does in the museum itself. Built in 1878 as the town’s principal hospital, it now holds a gruesome collection of early medical equipment and anatomical drawings, including, notably, a pregnancy guide rendered as woodblock prints.

THE KILNS OF HIRASHIMIZU

The pretty pottery village of Hirashimizu (平清水) has a surprisingly rural atmosphere, despite its location in Yamagata’s southeastern outskirts. There’s just one main street and a small river running down from the surrounding hills, providing local potters with their distinctive speckled clay. If you explore a little, you’ll find several family potteries with showrooms (generally daily 9am–5pm; open until 6pm in high season). To reach Hirashimizu, take a bus from Yamagata Station (hourly; 15min; ¥300).

POTTERIES

Shichiemon-gama 七右衛門窯 153 Hirashimizu 023 642 7777. The largest pottery in the area, Shichiemon-gama offers visitors the chance to throw a pot or two. A 1hr 30min lesson costs ¥2200, while pots are on sale for ¥1000 upwards. Daily 9am–5pm. Seiryū-gama 精龍窯 50-1 Hirashimizu 023 631 2828. One of the best local workshops, offering an assortment of short courses from ¥2000. Daily 9am–5pm.

HANAGASA MATSURI

During Yamagata’s main festival (Aug 5–7), this normally sedate city bursts into life. The event involves a procession of more than ten thousand dancers accompanied by brightly decorated floats and Taikō drums. Traditionally, yukata-clad women wearing flowery hats perform slow, graceful dances in unison, but in recent years there has been a much greater variety of dance groups. Members of the crowd can also join in during several circle-dancing sessions.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION YAMAGATA

By plane Yamagata Airport serves domestic routes only ( yamagata-airport.co.jp). Shuttle buses, timed to coincide with flights, connect it with Yamagata’s bus terminal and train station, 20km south (7 daily; 35min; ¥980).

Destinations Nagoya (2 daily; 1hr 15min); Osaka Itami (3 daily; 1hr 25min); Tokyo Haneda (2 daily; 1hr 5min).

By train Yamagata is on a spur of the Tōhoku Shinkansen that branches north from the main line at Fukushima and ends at Shinjō. The very scenic east–west Senzan line provides direct connections with Sendai, via Yamadera.

Destinations Fukushima (hourly; 1hr 10min); Sendai (hourly; 1hr 20min); Shinjō (hourly; 1hr 10min); Tokyo (hourly; 2hr 30min–3hr 15min); Yamadera (hourly; 20min).

By bus All long-distance buses use Yamagata’s central bus terminal, in the Yamakō building behind Ekimae-dōri’s Yamazawa department store. Most city buses stop outside the station’s east exit.

Destinations Niigata (2 daily; 3hr 40min); Sendai (every 30min; 1hr); Tokyo (4 daily; 7hr 15min); Toyama (1 daily; 7hr); Tsuruoka (9 daily; 2hr).

Tourist information The main tourist office is in the Kajō Central Building, by the station’s west exit (daily 9am–5.30pm; 023 647 2333, yamagatakanko.com).

GETTING AROUND

By bus A sightseeing bus loops every 10min between the station and the major sights (daily 9.30am–6.30pm; ¥100 flat fare, ¥300 day pass).

Car rental Car rental companies clustered around the station include Eki Rent-a-Car ( 023 646 6322, www.ekiren.co.jp) and Toyota ( 023 625 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp).

ACCOMMODATION

Castle ホテルキャッスル 4-2-7 Tōka-machi 023 631 3311, hotelcastle.co.jp. Just over a 5min walk along Ekimae-dōri from the station, this large hotel offers well-sized, contemporary Western-style rooms as well as reasonably priced Chinese, Japanese and Mediterranean restaurants. Breakfast costs ¥2000 per person. ¥9400

Guesthouse Mintaro Hut ゲストハウス ミンタロハット 5–13 Ōte-machi 090 2797 1687, mintarohut.com. Welcoming budget option, near the northeast corner of Kajō-kōen park 1.5km north of the station, and named for an eponymous hut on New Zealand’s Milford Track. The four simple Western-style guest rooms share use of a cosy lounge and communal kitchen, plus free bikes. Doubles ¥7000

Metropolitan ホテルメトロポリタン 1-1-1 Kasumi-chō 023 628 1111, www.yamagatametropolitan.jp. Smart, modern hotel conveniently located right above the station, with large and comfortable rooms in both Japanese and Western styles, and a Japanese restaurant that’s open for all meals. If you’re travelling on a JR rail pass, you can enjoy substantial discounts. ¥11,200

EATING

Yamagata’s speciality foods include marbled Yonezawa beef, similar to the more famous Matsuzaka variety, and imoni, a warming winter stew of potato, meat, onions and konnyaku (a jelly-like food made from the root of the devil’s tongue plant), served in a slightly sweet sauce.

Louisiana Hurricane ルイジアナハリケーン 1-3-1 Kasumi-chō 023 631 5012. Despite the transatlantic name, this lively place, just along from the station, styles itself a British pub and devotes much of its energies and wall space to celebrating the Beatles. Besides cocktails and the company of expats, it also offers hearty plates of Western-style food for around ¥800. Daily 6pm–2am.

Sagorō 佐五郎 1-6-10 Kasumi-chō 023 631 3560, www.sagoro.jp. Refined restaurant, poised on the second floor above its own butcher store, which makes an ideal spot to sample the local beef sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. Set dinner menus start from ¥4860, but you can get a good lunch for ¥1500. Mon–Sat 11.30am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Shōji-ya 庄司屋 14-28 Sawai-machi 023 622 1380, shojiya.jp. Turn right out of the station and head south for around 800m until you come to a level crossing; turn left, away from the tracks, and you’ll come to Yamagata’s oldest soba restaurant 50m along on the left. No one speaks English and there’s no English menu, but it’s easy enough to sample handmade soba (¥790–1640) in any form you fancy – with hot duck soup and vegetables, for example – at the smart, spotless shared tables. Tues–Sun 11am–8.30pm.

Zaō Onsen

蔵王温泉

Up in the mountains 20km southeast of Yamagata city, ZAŌ ONSEN is the main focus of activity in the Zaō Quasi National Park, an attractive region of volcanoes, crater lakes and hot springs. In winter (Dec to late March), the resort offers some of Japan’s finest skiing, with more than a dozen runs to choose from, as well as night skiing and onsen to soak away the aches and pains. Non-skiers can enjoy the ropeway (cable-car) ride over the plateau known as Juhyō Kōgen, where a thick covering of snow and hoarfrost transforms the trees into giant “snow monsters” (juhyō).

Juhyō Kōgen

Zaō Sanroku Ropeway 蔵王山麓ロープウェイ • Daily every 10min: April to mid-Dec 8.30am–5pm; mid-Dec to March 8.15am–4.45pm • Sanchō Ropeway 山頂ロープウェ • Daily every 10min: April to mid-Dec 8.30am–5pm; mid-Dec to March 8.30am–4.30pm • One-way: Zaō Sanroku only ¥800, both ¥1500; return: Zaō Sanroku only ¥1500, both ¥3000 • 023 694 9518, zaoropeway.co.jp

The Zaō Sanroku Ropeway (cable-car) takes visitors up to the mountains to see the Juhyō Kōgen, or “Snow Monster Plateau”, where the eerie frozen firs are at their most spectacular in February. At the base station, ten minutes’ walk southeast of the bus station, the Juhyō Museum displays photos of the ghostly frozen formations (same opening hours as lifts; free).

From the Juhyō Kōgen station at the upper end of the Sanroku Ropeway, the separate Sanchō Ropeway climbs in turn to the Zaō Jizō Sanchō Station. At 1661m, this top station lies between Sampō Kōjin-san (1703m) and Jizō-san (1736m), just two of the peaks that make up the ragged profile of Zaō-san.

During the summer hiking season (May–Oct), you can follow the right-hand (southeasterly) path over Jizō-san and Kumano-dake (1841m) for spectacular views and a fairly rugged hour’s walk to the desolate, chemical-blue Okama crater lake (御釜火口湖, Okama Kakōko).

Dai-rotemburo onsen

大露天風呂 • Late April/May–Oct daily 6am–7pm • ¥550• 023 694 9417, jupeer-zao.com/roten • Many ryokan offer a bus shuttle for guests

Zaō Onsen village has plenty of public baths where you can recover from skiing or hiking with a good, long soak. The pick of the bunch, the unforgettable outdoor Dai-rotemburo onsen, and open in summer only, is twenty minutes’ walk uphill from the bus station. Fed by hot springs, surrounded by discoloured rock and overflowing with steamy sulphur-laden water, it can accommodate up to two hundred bathers.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ZAŌ ONSEN

By bus Regular buses run from Yamagata Station to the Zaō Onsen bus terminal (hourly; 40min; ¥1000), at the bottom of the village; in summer, one bus each day continues all to Okama lake (Aug–Nov; 1hr 30min; Yamagata–Okama ¥2050). During ski season, buses also run between Zaō Onsen and Sendai (late Dec to mid-March daily; 1hr 40min; ¥1600 one-way; reservations advisable; japanbusonline.com), and from Sendai Airport to Zaō Onsen (4 daily, mid-Dec to early April; 1hr 50min; ¥1800; 022 323 4737).

Tourist information The tourist office, which hands out English-language resort information and ski maps, is at the bus terminal (daily 9am–6pm; 023 694 9328, zao-spa.or.jp).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Gokan-no-yu Tsuruya 五感の湯つるや 710 Zaō Onsen 023 694 9112, www.tsuruyahotel.co.jp. High-end option, opposite the bus station, where the authentic ryokan experience includes lavish kaiseki meals and a choice of stylish indoor, open-air and private hot-spring baths. Guests get discounts on lift passes and equipment rental. Breakfast and dinner can be arranged at extra cost. ¥24,000

SKIING IN ZAŌ ONSEN

Zaō is one of Japan’s largest ski areas, covering 750 acres and equipped with 32 lifts to access slopes suited to all levels. Its northerly position ensures a large annual snowfall of dry, high-quality, powder snow. Lift passes cost ¥4000 for 4hr, ¥5000 per day, ¥21,600 for seven days (plus ¥500 pass deposit); equipment and clothing rental is available from shops near the base stations.

Izakaya Robata 居酒屋炉端 42-7 Zaō Onsen 023 694 9565, t023.com/~zao. There’s usually a good atmosphere at this small, popular izakaya near the river, well known for its lamb barbecue skewers and other flame-grilled dishes, with full dinners starting at ¥2000. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Lodge Chitoseya ロッジちとせや 954 Zaō Onsen 023 694 9145, lodge-chitoseya.com. Located after the first bridge as you head right from the station, this reasonable and comfortable lodging has a hostel-like atmosphere and an English-speaking manager. Rates include breakfast; dinner costs an extra ¥1475 per person. ¥11,000

Yamadera

山寺 • 023 695 2843, rissyakuji.jp

The temple complex of Risshaku-ji, or YAMADERA as it’s more popularly known, is one of Tōhoku’s most holy places. Set on a steep, rocky hillside, 14km northeast of Yamagata and 75km west of Sendai, it was founded in 860 by a Zen priest of the Tendai sect, and reached its peak during the Kamakura period (1185–1333). Today around forty temple buildings still stand scattered among the ancient cedars. Be sure to try the local snack of tama-kon, konnyaku balls boiled in huge vats set up outside restaurants and souvenir shops. The salty, chewy skewers (usually ¥100 each), often served with a dab of mustard, fortify you for the climb.

Kompon Chūdō

根本中堂 • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥200

Yamadera’s main hall, the magnificent Kompon Chūdō, stands at the foot of the mountain temple complex. To get there from the station, cross the river and follow the road to the right, passing a row of shops selling souvenirs and snacks. Dating from 1356, Kompon Chūdō shelters a flame that was brought 1100 years ago from Enryaku-ji, the centre of Tendai Buddhism near Kyoto, and which is said to have been burning ever since. Peer inside, and you should see the lantern hanging on the left-hand side.

Risshaku-ji temple walk

立石寺 • Daily 6am–6pm • ¥300

Entering Yamadera’s San-mon gate (山門) brings you to the start of the Risshaku-ji temple walk. Over 1100 steps weave their way up past moss-covered Jizō statues, lanterns and prayer wheels, and squeeze between looming rocks carved with prayers and pitted with caves. At the highest temple, Okuno-in, breathless pilgrims tie prayer papers around a mammoth lantern and light small bunches of incense sticks. Before you set off back downhill, don’t miss the views from the terrace of Godai-dō, perched on the cliff-face just beyond the distinctive red Nōkyō-dō pavilion.

Yamadera Bashō Memorial Museum

山寺芭蕉記念館, Yamadera Bashō Kinenkan • 4223 Nanin • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥400 • 023 695 2221, yamadera-basho.jp

Located on a hilltop behind Yamadera Station, with a panoramic view of Risshaku-ji temple, the modern Yamadera Bashō Memorial Museum commemorates the visit of the famous poet Bashō to Yamadera. Travelling before the days of coach parties, he penned a characteristically pithy ode: “In the utter silence of a temple, a cicada’s voice alone penetrates the rocks.” Exhibits include original haiku and Edo-period artworks.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YAMADERA

By train Yamadera Station, across the river 400m southwest of the temple, is on the JR Senzan line between Yamagata (hourly; 20min) and Sendai (hourly; 1hr).

Sendai

仙台

The largest city in the Tōhoku region, SENDAI is a sprawling but pleasant place, with broad tree-lined avenues and a lively downtown district. Though often regarded as little more than a staging post on the way to Matsushima Bay, the city’s castle ruins and associated history museum, and the ornate mausoleum of its revered founder, the daimyō Date Masamune, are worth a visit.

Though central Sendai had to be rebuilt after World War II, its streets follow the original grid pattern laid out by Masamune in the seventeenth century. The main downtown area, a high-rise district of offices, banks and shopping malls, lies on the east bank of the Hirose-gawa. Its principal thoroughfare, Aoba-dōri, runs west from the train station to the far side of the river, where the main historic sights are located. Roughly halfway along, it’s crossed by bustling Ichiban-chō, which together with the covered Chūō-dōri forms the heart of a bustling nightlife and shopping neighbourhood.

Sendai also hosts some colourful festivals, including the Tanabata or Star Festival (Aug 6–8), and the Jorenji Street Jazz Festival (second weekend in Sept; j-streetjazz.com), which sees the city-centre streets transformed into an urban music venue.

Aoba-jō (Sendai Castle)

青葉城 • 1 Kawauchi-ku • 022 214 8259 • Free • Buses from stop #9 at Sendai Station run to Aobajōshi-mae (20min), at the foot of the hill

The wooded hilltop park, Aobayama-kōen (青葉山公園), across the river 2.7km west of Sendai Station, was the original site of the magnificent Sendai Castle, popularly known as Aoba-jō. In the wake of wartime bombing and subsequent US occupation, only a few stretches of wall and a reconstructed gateway remain, but the setting itself is superb, protected by the river to the east and a deep ravine on its south side. At the top of the hill, an equestrian statue of local warlord Date Masamune surveys the city below.

SENDAI’S STAR FESTIVAL

In early August each year, over two million people cram into Sendai for the three-day festival of Sendai Tanabata (仙台七夕祭; Aug 6–8; sendaitanabata.com), which celebrates the one occasion in the year when – weather permitting – the two astral lovers, Vega the weaver and Altair the cowherd, can meet. The city centre is awash with thousands of bamboo poles festooned with colourful paper tassels, poems and prayers, and there’s an impressive fireworks display over the Hirose-gawa.

You can get a good idea of the castle’s former glory at the Aoba-jō Exhibition Hall (青葉城資料展示館; daily 9am–5pm; ¥700; 022 222 0218, honmarukaikan.com), above the park’s souvenir shops, where a short film simulates a trip “inside” the castle.

Sendai City Museum

仙台市博物館, Sendaī-shi Hakubutsukan • 26 Kawauchi, Aoba-ku • Tues–Sun 9am–4.45pm • ¥460 • 022 225 3074, bit.ly/sendai-museum

The modern, well-laid-out Sendai City Museum, just north of Aobayama-kōen, traces the city’s history from the early Stone Age to the present day. The main emphasis, however, is on the glory days under Date Masamune, the “One-Eyed Dragon”, and his successors. Pretty much everything of importance is up on the second floor, including displays of Masamune’s armour, with the distinctive crescent moon on the helmet, his sword and various portraits – he's diplomatically shown as having two eyes.

Zuihō-den mausoleum

瑞鳳殿 • 23-2 Otamayashita, Aoba-ku • Daily: Feb–Nov 9am–4.30pm; Dec & Jan 9am–4pm • ¥550, including entry to museum • 022 262 6250, zuihoden.com • 25min walk from Sendai Station, or a bus from stop #11 to Otamaya-bashi

When Date died in 1636, aged 70, he was buried atop a separate wooded hill not far east along the river from Aoba-jō. In due course his two immediate successors joined him, and their three mausoleums – Masamune’s is Zuihō-den, while his son Tadamune and grandson Tsunamune are in Kansen-den and Zenno-den respectively – can be reached by climbing a broad stone staircase through the trees. The opulent, Momoyama-style tombs, with vivid polychrome carvings glittering against the plain dark wood and overhanging eaves, were destroyed during the war, so what you see today are 1980s reconstructions, the result of a five-year project during which researchers exhumed the actual graves. You can see the treasures they unearthed, as well as fascinating footage of the excavations, in a one-room museum alongside Zuihō-den.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SENDAI

By plane Sendai’s airport, 25km south of the centre ( sendai-airport.co.jp/en), is used by international and domestic services; direct trains run to Sendai Station (25min; ¥650), while buses serve Sendai and other regional cities ( www.aizubus.com).

Destinations Centrair, Nagoya (7 daily; 1hr 15min); Fukuoka (7 daily; 2hr 10min); Hiroshima (2 daily; 1hr 40min); Izumo (daily; 1hr 30min); Kobe (2 daily; 1hr 25min); Komatsu (2 daily; 1hr 5min); Okinawa Naha (daily; 3hr 15min); Osaka Itami (15 daily; 1hr 25min); Osaka Kansai (3 daily; 1hr 40min); Sapporo (15 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokyo Narita (3 daily; 1hr).

By train Sendai's main JR station is linked by the Tōhoku Shinkansen line with Tokyo, Morioka and Aomori, and by local line to Yamagata (via Yamadera) and Matsushima.

Destinations Hon-Shiogama (every 15–30min; 30min); Ichinoseki (hourly; 35min); Ishinomaki (every 30min; 50min–1hr 30min); Matsushima-kaigan (every 30min; 30–40min); Morioka (every 30min; 40min); Tokyo (every 20min; 1hr 30min–2hr 25min); Yamadera (hourly; 1hr); Yamagata (hourly; 1hr 20min).

By bus Most local and long-distance buses stop on the west side of Sendai Station, though JR buses ( jrbustohoku.co.jp) bound for Niigata and Tokyo (Shinjuku) leave from the east side. Express buses go to Kyoto, Osaka, Nagoya and destinations around Tōhoku from the Miyagi Kōtsū bus terminal ( miyakou.co.jp) at the west end of Hirose-dōri, as does the JR bus to Akita, while buses for Tokyo also leave from Tōhoku Kyūkō, across the road.

By ferry Ferries from Nagoya (3–4 weekly; 21hr) and Tomakomai in Hokkaidō (6 weekly; 15hr) Hokkaidō dock at Sendai Port, 12km west of the city ( taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp), which is served by local buses from the main station (40min; ¥490).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Sendai’s main tourist office (daily 8.30am–7pm; 022 222 4069, sendai-travel.jp) is on the JR station’s second floor; the helpful English-speaking staff can help with hotel bookings.

GETTING AROUND

By train Sendai has one subway line, running north–south. To reach the subway from Sendai’s JR station, follow the signs through the basement of the S-Pal store.

By bus The easiest way to get around Sendai is by the local tourist bus, Loople Sendai, which stops at most of the city’s sights (¥260; one-day pass ¥630; loople-sendai.jp). A one-day bus and subway pass costs ¥900, while the two-day Marugoto Pass (¥2720) also covers the JR lines that service Yamadera, Matsushima and Sendai Airport.

By car Rental outlets at the east exit of Sendai Station include Eki Rent-a-Car ( 022 292 6501, www.ekiren.co.jp) and Nippon ( 022 297 1919, www.nrgroup-global.com).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

There are plenty of mid-range and expensive business hotels within walking distance of Sendai Station, with branches of most of the large chains in the streets to the east and south. Budget accommodation is more limited, though a few options are available further from the centre.

Bansuitei-ikoisō 晩翠亭いこい荘 1-8-31 Kimachi-dōri, Aoba-ku 022 222 7885, ikoisouryokan.co.jp. An excellent ryokan just outside the downtown area but easily accessible by city bus #1 or #2, and subway (stop: Kita-Yonbanchō). Rooms are impeccably clean and nicely decorated, with fine wooden floors, and there are separate male and female onsen. Two meals will cost an extra ¥2750 per person. ¥11,600

Dormy Inn Express Sendai ドーミーインEXPRESS仙台 2-10-17 Chūō, Aoba-ku 022 715 7077, www.hotespa.net/dormyinn/english. Budget business hotel, near Hirose-dōri subway station, a 5min walk northwest of the station towards the city centre, with ageing but adequate en-suite rooms. A major plus is that they offer thirty free dinners nightly (first-come, first-served), as well as free ramen. Rates include breakfast. ¥11,821

Metropolitan ホテルメトロポリタン 1-1-1 Chūō-dōri, Aoba-ku 022 268 2525, jrhotelgroup.com/en/107.html. Large, very comfortable high-rise hotel adjoining Sendai Station – turn left from the west exit – with decent-sized Western- and Japanese-style rooms. Facilities include Japanese and Chinese restaurants, bar, café, gym and indoor pool. ¥15,950

Miyagi Guest House 宮城ゲストハウス 2-1-35 Kakyō-in, Aoba-ku 022 393 5133, bit.ly/sendaimiyagi. Friendly hostel, a 10min walk north of the JR station – print their online map if you can – with clean but small dorms and a communal tatami lounge space, plus one private tatami double. Rates drop after two nights for dorm rooms. Dorm ¥2500, double ¥6500

Smile スマイルホテル 3F, 4-3-22 Ichiban-chō, Aoba-ku 022 261 7711, smile-hotels.com. Simple but modern and perfectly acceptable business hotel, 1.5km from the station but right in the thick of things if you want to shop or dine in the busy Ichiban-chō mall. ¥12,200

Washington Hotel 仙台ワシントンホテル 4-10-8 Chūō-dōri, Aoba-ku 022 745 2222, sendai.washington-hotels.jp. Smart, friendly business hotel, across from Sendai Station; follow the raised pedestrian walkway to the left from the west exit. Stylish modern rooms, including some singles specifically for women, plus buffet breakfasts for ¥900. ¥13,940

DATE MASAMUNE

Known as the “One-Eyed Dragon”, the fearsome warrior Date Masamune (1567–1636) lost an eye to smallpox in childhood. Heir to a long line of powerful daimyō in the Tōhoku region, he established Sendai after he was granted the fiefdom in return for helping bring Tokugawa Ieyasu to power in 1603. His Date clan constructed a castle in a highly ornate Momoyama style that made it more like a luxurious palace than a fortress, with painted ceilings and huge rooms divided by glorious screens, and ruled the city for the next 270 years.

EATING MAP

Sendai’s best-known speciality is gyū-tan – grilled, smoked or salted calf’s tongue – though locals rejoice when oysters from Matsushima Bay become available in winter (Dec–March). Be sure to call in at Abe Kamaboko-ten, a famous shop in the Chūō-dōri mall, to try the popular snack sasa-kamaboko, a leaf-shaped cake of white-fish paste. Otherwise, Chūō-dōri and the connecting Ichiban-chō arcades and Iroha-yokochō alleyways are good places to look for restaurants and cafés, as is the immediate vicinity of Sendai Station.

Aji Tasuke 味太助 4-4-13 Ichiban-chō 022 225 4641, aji-tasuke.co.jp. At Sendai’s best-known gyū-tan restaurant, you can sit at the counter and watch expert chefs prepare beef tongue in all its forms. A bowl of “tail soup” costs ¥600, a simple plate of tongue ¥1300, and set meals from ¥2000. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–9pm.

Sendai Coffee Stand 仙台コーヒースタンド 1-3-12 Kokubun-chō, Aoba-ku 022 797 1015, coffee-stand.com. Hip little coffee roasters one block west of the central arcade, where appetizing aromas lure passing pedestrians inside, and you can linger over a cup at a handful of outdoor tables. Daily 10am–7pm.

Sumiyaki Kirikyū Nakakechōten 炭焼 利久 名掛丁店 1-8-29 Chūō-dōri, Aoba-ku 022 713 9677. Always assuming you’re up for popping a cow’s tongue in your mouth, the ¥1800 beef set dinner at this outlet of a busy and wildly popular local chain lets you sample Sendai’s favourite delicacy in four ways – thinly sliced with salad; in a peppery broth; stewed with tomato or curry; and charcoal grilled. Daily 11.30am–11pm.

T's Tantan T'sたんたん B1F S-Pal, 1-1-1 Chūō, Aoba-ku 022 721 6527, ts-restaurant.jp/tantan. This unassuming spot, hidden in the restaurant section of the station's department store, offers a rare treat for meat-averse travellers: delicious, steaming bowls of vegan ramen. There are no wrong choices, but the nutty, creamy golden sesame (¥1250) is particularly good – especially with some gyōza on the side (¥300 as part of a set, or ¥500 for five dumplings). Daily 10am–10pm.

DRINKING MAP

Kokubun-chō, just west of the Ichiban-chō shopping mall, is Sendai’s main entertainment district, filled with bars, clubs and nightspots.

E’z Bar 日記 B1 2-12-19 Kokubun-chō, Aoba-ku 022 399 8439. A small and convivial shot bar in the basement of the Daisankyouritsu building, E’z offers a good range of drinks, small art exhibitions and also sells the owner’s handmade candles. Tues–Sun 7pm–4am.

Hide Out ハイドアウト 2F 2-8-11 Kokubun-chō, Aoba-ku 022 268 6776. This small second-floor bar and “information exchange centre” is a shrine to bourbon, whisky, football and blues. Its genial host, late opening times and the contents of the thousand-plus bottles of spirits covering every surface will ensure you exchange information till the small, or even not so small, hours. ¥600 cover, drinks from ¥600. Daily 8pm–8am, irregular closures.

SHOPPING MAP

As well as the covered malls of Chūō-dōri and Ichiban-chō, be sure to check out the small alleys that run off Ichiban-chō, including Toichi Ichiba and Iroha Yokochō, which hold assorted independent curio shops.

Graniph グラニフ 3-3-26 Ichiban-chō 022 212 5565, graniph.com. In the heart of the shopping arcade, this shop sells limited edition T-shirts (from ¥2000) and clothes with fun designs from leading contemporary artists. Daily 11am–8pm.

Maruzen 丸善 1-3-1 Chūō-dōri 022 264 0151. The best place in town for foreign-language books and magazines; you’ll find it across from the station, on the first floor of the AER Building. Daily 10am–9pm.

Shimanuki しまぬき 3-1-17 Ichiban-chō 022 223 2370, shimanuki.co.jp. This traditional crafts shop sells a lovely array of kokeshi dolls, wooden toys, ittōbori carved birds, fabrics, ironware and lacquer goods. Daily 10.30am–7pm.

Matsushima Bay

松島湾, Matsushima-wan

A magnificent watery maze of wooded, temple-topped islands, threaded through with mysterious channels and scattered with secret inlets, Matsushima Bay is officially designated one of Japan’s top three scenic areas, along with Miyajima and Amanohashidate. Measuring roughly 12km by 14km and a short train ride northeast of Sendai, the bay holds over 260 islands of every conceivable shape and size, many said to resemble tortoises, whales, or human profiles, and each with scraggy fringes of contorted pine trees protruding out of its white rock faces. There are so many, in fact, that they’re credited with acting as a natural barrier against tsunamis, and thus sparing Matsushima from much devastation during the disaster of 2011; it has even been suggested that similar artificial islands should be constructed along the Tōhoku coastline.

Bashō, travelling through in 1689, commented that “much praise had already been lavished upon the wonders of the islands of Matsushima”. Some modern visitors find the bay too commercialized to live up to such high expectations, but a boat trip among the islands still makes an enjoyable outing – if you can manage to avoid the often overcrowded weekends and holidays. Matsushima town itself holds several picturesque spots, as well as a temple, Zuigan-ji, that’s home to an impressive collection of art treasures. Although most tourists come on a day-trip from Sendai, if you’re planning to continue north along the coast an overnight stop in Matsushima is worth considering.

Matsushima

松島

On first impression, the modern town of MATSUSHIMA appears to amount to little more than a strip of resort hotels and souvenir shops. As soon as you explore away from that coastal ribbon, however, you’ll start to appreciate this spot’s venerable history. Matsushima’s roots date back to 828, when the Zen priest Jikaku Daishi Enrin founded Zuigan-ji. That temple, together with associated shrines scattered in the woods nearby as well as on readily accessible islets just offshore, provides the focus for a hugely rewarding half-day stroll.

Zuigan-ji

瑞巌寺 • 91 Matsushima Chōnai • Daily: Feb & Nov 8am–4pm; March & Oct 8am–4.30pm; April–Sept 8am–5pm; Dec–Jan 8am–3.30pm • ¥700, including Seiryū-den • 022 354 2023, zuiganji.or.jp

Set well back from the bay, five minutes’ walk either north of Matsushima-kaigan Station or west of the central boat pier, Zuigan-ji is approached via an imposing grove of 400-year-old cedar trees. As well as walking up that central avenue, be sure to detour north to explore the many cave shrines hollowed into the rocks alongside.

This ancient temple has been rebuilt many times since its foundation, and had to be restored to its original splendour following damage during the 2011 tsunami, but retains a compelling sense of history. Though deceptively plain from the outside, the buildings bear the unmistakeable stamp of Date Masamune, the first lord of Sendai, who oversaw the reconstruction of Zuigan-ji in the early seventeenth century. He employed the best craftsmen and the highest-quality materials to create a splendid monument of intricately carved doors and transoms, wood-panelled ceilings and gilded screens lavishly painted with hawks, chrysanthemums, peacocks and pines.

As well as the customary array of temple treasures, the modern Seiryū-den museum nearby holds a statue of a squinting Masamune in full armour and uncompromising mood – for once, it’s clear that his right eye is missing – plus effigies of his angelic-looking wife and eldest daughter.

Entsū-in

円通院 • 67 Matsushima Chōnai • Daily: April–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4pm • ¥300 • 022 354 3206, entuuin.or.jp

In a separate precinct next door to Zuigan-ji, Entsū-in is dedicated to the glory of the Date clan. There’s an exquisite raked-gravel garden to your left as you enter, and yet more cave shrines amid the mossy hillside rocks at the far end, but its central feature, also known as Sankeiden, is the mausoleum of Date Mitsumune, Date Masamune’s grandson, who died aged 19, allegedly of poisoning, in 1645.

Godai-dō

五大堂 • 111 Matsushima Chōnai • Daily dawn–dusk • Free • 022 354 2618, bit.ly/godai-do

MATSUSHIMA PANORAMAS

The hills that surround Matsushima town offer abundant panoramic views of the bay. Of the four main lookout points, southerly Sōkanzan (双観山) is deemed to provide the best all-round views, encompassing both Shiogama and Matsushima itself; take a taxi (¥2500 return fare) to avoid the thirty-minute climb on a busy road. Alternatively, Saigyō Modoshi-no-matsu (西行戻しの松) is a more pleasant fifteen-minute scramble west of the station.

Two tiny islands, just north of Matsushima’s central ferry pier, are linked to the mainland and each other via vermilion footbridges. No one knows why the planks of the bridges are separated by precarious gaps, but it has been suggested that it kept women – who were forbidden access – from crossing and sullying the sacred ground, because of their awkward traditional shoes and kimono. The object of their curiosity was the Godai-dō, a picturesque pavilion built by order of Masamune in the early 1600s. It houses statues of five Buddhist deities, which can only be seen every 33 years. Until the next viewing, scheduled for 2039, visitors have to make do with admiring the charming carvings of the twelve animals of the zodiac that decorate the eaves.

Fukūra-jima

福浦島 • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥200

Not far north of Godai-dō, a 252m-long footbridge spans the oyster beds to reach the island of Fukūra-jima. A natural botanical garden, it’s home to more than 250 native plant species, and even on the busiest tourist days it offers the chance to escape and enjoy some peaceful time in nature. Walking around the island, which is filled with great picnic spots and also holds a simple café/snack bar, takes about an hour.

Ojima

雄島 • Daily 24hr • Free

Turn right as you come out of Matsushima-kaigan Station, away from the town centre, and follow the coastal footpath south for around 500m to reach the slim vermilion footbridge that crosses to the tiny island of Ojima. Centuries ago, the soft volcanic rock here was hollowed into over a hundred little caves, half of which still hold weatherbeaten statues and itabi (carved votary tablets). Come early enough in the day, and you may well find you have the whole island to yourself.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MATSUSHIMA

By train The JR Senseki line runs direct to Matsushima from Sendai Station; disembark at Matsushima-kaigan Station (松島海岸駅) rather than Matsushima Station, which is further from the main sights.

Destinations Hon-Shiogama (every 30min; 10min); Ishinomaki (hourly; 45min); Sendai (every 30min; 30–40min).

By boat As one or both legs of a day-trip from Sendai, it’s straightforward to make the scenic crossing of Matsushima Bay by boat, between Shiogama (塩釜), 16km northeast of Sendai, and Matsushima town. Regular trains connect Sendai with Hon-Shiogama Station, 700m west of Shiogama’s Marine Gate ferry pier. The boats typically leave every hour, on the hour, though more frequent services operate during peak periods (daily: departures from Shiogama 9am–3pm, from Matsushima 10am–3pm; 50min; ¥1500, or ¥3000 for the top deck; 022 354 3453, marubun-kisen.com).

Sightseeing cruises Regular boats set off from Matsushima tourist pier to make 50min cruises around the bay (daily: April–Oct 9am–4pm; Nov–March 9am–3pm; 50min; ¥1500; 022 354 2233, matsushima.or.jp).

Information The tourist office outside Matsushima-kaigan Station is well stocked with brochures and leaflets (daily: April–Nov 8.30am–5pm, Dec–March 8.30am–4.30pm; 022 354 2618, matsushima-kanko.com).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

While Matsushima is a very easy day trip from Sendai, it does hold a crop of smart but generally expensive hotels. Busy with visitors every lunchtime, Matsushima offers a fine array of reasonably priced seafood restaurants, especially along the seafront as you approach Fukūra-jima, and also some appealing little snack places and noodle shops in the temple district. This region is especially renowned for its oysters, which have been farmed here for around three hundred years.

Alamy

KAPPA WATER CREATURE IN IWATE-KŌEN

Century Hotel センチュリーホテル 8 Senzui 022 354 4111, ssl.centuryhotel.co.jp. Modern waterfront hotel, near the bridge to Fukūra-jima, where the more expensive of the Western and tatami en-suite rooms have sea-view balconies, and the huge onsen has panoramic windows looking over the bay. Breakfast included in rates, dinner around ¥5000 extra per person. ¥22,000

Ryotei Unseian 旅亭 云静庵 17 Sanjukari 022 355 1655. Formerly the Resort Inn Matsushima, this bright modern hotel has Western-style en-suite rooms. To reach it, turn right from the station and follow the road leading under the tracks and up the hill for around 700m. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥22,000

Santori Chaya さんとり茶屋 24-4-1 Senzui 022 353 2622. A small, simple restaurant on the waterfront north of the Godai-dō, serving reasonable teishoku (traditional set menu) as well as sashimi, sushi and rice dishes. Head upstairs for great sea views. Main dishes cost around ¥1100. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–3pm & 5–9pm.

Oshika Hantō

牡鹿半島

North of Sendai, Honshū’s coastal plain gives way to a fractured shoreline characterized by deep bays and knobbly peninsulas. The first such is Oshika Hantō, a rugged spine on the eastern edge of Sendai Bay, whose broken tip forms the tiny island of Kinkazan. This has been a sacred place since ancient times, but its prime attractions these days are its isolation and the hiking trails through forests inhabited by semi-wild deer and monkeys.

As the closest point on land to the epicentre of the 2011 earthquake, this area was devastated by the ensuing tsunami. The destruction left a permanent scar on the physical landscape as well as on the psyche of the local population, and the recovery effort is ongoing, but there's been more than enough reconstruction for visitors to easily access its beautiful, craggy coastline.

Ishinomaki

石巻

The principal town in the Oshika Hantō, and its major gateway, Ishinomaki stands 30km east of Matsushima at the mouth of northern Japan’s largest river, the Kitakami. Its generally forlorn air is hardly surprising: around 3600 people died here during the tsunami, and a total of 57,000 buildings were either wholly or partially destroyed. The districts closest to the sea were inundated to a depth of 8.6m – the deepest recorded anywhere – are being turned into a memorial park (tentatively scheduled to open fully in 2021).

Ishinomaki is also the jumping off point for ferry rides to Tashiro-jima, one of Japan's cat islands, where felines outnumber humans – in this case, by nearly four to one. Ferries leave from Ajishima Line ferry terminal (30min walk from Ishinomaki Station; 4 ferries per day; 50min; ¥1250; ajishimaline.com).

Ishinomori Mangattan Museum

石ノ森萬画館, Ishinomori Manga-kan • 2-7 Nakaze, Ishinomaki • March–Nov daily 9am–6pm, closed third Tues of each month; Dec–Feb Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥800 • 022 596 5055, mangattan.jp/manga

Housed in a rather extraordinary flying-saucer-shaped building, propped up on stilts, the futuristic Ishinomori Mangattan Museum somehow survived the tsunami, and served as a centre for relief efforts. It’s now reverted to its original function, to celebrate the locally born Shōtarō Ishinomori (1928–98), said to be the most prolific manga artist of all time. Colourful mannequins line the twenty-minute walk from Ishinomaki Station, along the main commercial strip and across the river, all the way to the museum. For manga-lovers, its displays of books, images and superhero effigies are an absolute delight, though with almost all the captions in Japanese only, it’s the TV screens showing old episodes of Ishinomori’s 1970s hit series Kamen Rider that are most likely to hold the attention of casual visitors.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ISHINOMAKI

By train Ishinomaki Station, at the west end of the centre, had to be entirely rebuilt after the tsunami, as indeed did the local sections of the JR Senseki train line, which connects the town with Sendai.

Destinations Kogota (10 daily; 40min); Matsushima-kaigam (hourly; 45min); Sendai (every 30min; 1hr–1hr 25min).

By bus The main bus stops are directly in front of Ishinomaki Station.

Destinations Ayukawa (7 daily; 1hr 30min); Sendai (hourly; 1hr 20min); Tokyo Shinjuku (2 daily; 7hr 10min).

Information The Ishinomaki Community & Info Centre, at 2-11-11 Chūō on the main road just west of the river, doubles as both the tourist office and the place to learn about the tsunami and the ongoing process of reconstruction (Mon & Wed–Sun 9.30am–6pm; 022 598 4425; English-language guidance sometimes available, check ahead).

Kinkazan

金華山

The conical island of KINKAZAN (“Mountain of the Gold Flowers”), 1km off the tip of Oshika Hantō, makes an interesting day-trip, though its ferry connection usually operates on Sundays only. Its first recorded inhabitants were gold prospectors, and although the seams were exhausted long ago, it’s still associated with wealth and good fortune. The prime sight, the shrine of Koganeyama-jinja (黄金山神社), is dedicated to the twin gods of prosperity, Ebisu and Daikoku, and stands in a clearing, cropped by hungry deer, on the island’s west slope, fifteen minutes’ uphill walk from the ferry pier. From behind the shrine buildings, a rough path leads to a stiff 2km hike up the 445m peak, an effort rewarded with truly magnificent views along the peninsula and west towards distant Matsushima.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KINKAZAN

By bus Buses connect the nearest train station, Ishinomaki, with Ayukawa (鮎川), a port with intermittent ferry service to Kinkazan.

By boat Seadream offers a service between Ayukawa and Kinkazan, typically on Sunday mornings only (¥3000 round-trip; 022 544 1055, bit.ly/seadream-kinkazan); see website for current schedules.

Hiraizumi and around

For a brief period, almost a thousand years ago, the temples of Hiraizumi, now a quiet backwater 100km north of Sendai, rivalled even Kyoto in their magnificence. Though the majority of monasteries and palaces are long vanished, the gloriously extravagant Konjiki-dō and the other treasures of Chūson-ji bear witness to the area’s former wealth and artistic accomplishment. Hiraizumi also boasts one of Japan’s best-preserved Heian-period gardens at Mōtsū-ji, and an atmospheric temple built into a cliff at Takkoku-no-Iwaya, while a boat ride between the towering cliffs of the nearby Geibikei or Genbikei gorges provides a scenic contrast and offers especially spectacular views in autumn.

Hiraizumi

平泉

Nowadays it’s hard to picture HIRAIZUMI as the resplendent capital of the Fujiwara clan, who chose this spot on the banks of the Kitakami-gawa for their “paradise on earth”. At first sight it’s a rather dozy little town on a busy main road, but the low western hills conceal the breathtaking gilded Konjiki-dō, which has somehow survived war, fire and natural decay for nearly nine centuries. You can easily cover this and the nearby gardens of Mōtsū-ji in a day, staying in either Hiraizumi or Ichinoseki, or even as a half-day stopover while travelling between Sendai and Morioka.

HIRAIZUMI FESTIVALS

The flight of Yoshitsune to Hiraizumi is commemorated with a costume parade during the town’s main spring festival (May 1–5), which also features open-air nō performances at Chūson-ji. Other important annual events include an ancient sacred dance, Ennen-no-Mai, held by torchlight at Mōtsū-ji on January 20, May 5 and during the autumn festival (Nov 1–3).

Brief history

Early in the twelfth century, Fujiwara Kiyohira, the first lord of the Fujiwara clan, set about building a vast complex of Buddhist temples and palaces, lavishly decorated with gold from the local mines, in what is now Hiraizumi. Eventually, the clan’s wealth and military might alarmed the southern warlord Minamoto Yoritomo, who was in the throes of establishing the Kamakura shogunate. Yoritomo’s valiant brother, Yoshitsune, had previously trained with the warrior monks of Hiraizumi, so when Yoritomo turned against him, Yoshitsune fled north. At first the Fujiwara protected him, but they soon betrayed him on the promise of a sizeable reward, and in 1189 Yoshitsune committed suicide (although according to one legend he escaped to Mongolia, where he resurfaced as Genghis Khan). Meanwhile, Yoritomo attacked the Fujiwara, destroying their temples and leaving the town to crumble into ruin. Passing through Hiraizumi five hundred years after Yoshitsune’s death, Bashō caught the mood in one of his famous haiku: “The summer grass, ’tis all that’s left of ancient warriors’ dreams.”

Chūson-ji

中尊寺 • 202 Koromonoseki • Daily: March–Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–Feb 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥800 including Konjiki-dō, Kyōzō and Sankōzō • 019 146 2211

The Fujiwaras' initial construction work concentrated on the temple of Chūson-ji, founded by a Tendai priest from Kyoto halfway through the ninth century. Of the forty original buildings, only two remain: Konjiki-dō (the Golden Hall) and the nearby sutra repository, Kyōzō. From the main road, a broad avenue leads uphill past minor temples sheltering under towering cryptomeria trees, until you reach the first building of any size, the Hondō, on the right-hand side. Chūson-ji’s greatest treasure, the Konjiki-dō, is a little further up on the left in a concrete hall.

Konjiki-dō

金色堂

Although the Konjiki-dō is tiny – only 5.5 square metres – and protected behind plate glass, it still makes an extraordinary sight. The whole structure gleams with thick gold leaf, while the altar inside is smothered in mother-of-pearl inlay and delicate gilded copper friezes set against dark burnished lacquer. The altar’s central image depicts Amida Nyorai, flanked by a host of Buddhas, bodhisattvas and guardian kings, all swathed in gold. Unveiled in 1124, this extravagant gesture of faith and power took fifteen years to complete and the bodies of all four generations of the Fujiwara lords still rest under its altar.

Kyōzō

恭三

Set behind the Konjiki-dō, Chūson-ji’s other original building, the Kyōzō, is not nearly so dramatic. This small plain hall, erected in 1108, used to house more than five thousand Buddhist sutras written in gold or silver characters on rich indigo paper. The hall next door was built in 1288 to shelter the Konjiki-dō – and now houses an eclectic collection of oil paintings – while, across the way, there’s a much more recent nō stage where outdoor performances are held in summer by firelight (Aug 14), and during Hiraizumi’s major spring and autumn festivals.

Sankōzō

讃衡蔵

The road beside the entrance to the Konjiki-dō leads to the modern Sankōzō, a museum containing what remains of Chūson-ji’s treasures. The most valuable items are a statue of the Senju Kannon (Thousand-Armed Goddess of Mercy), a number of sutra scrolls, and a unique collection of lacy metalwork decorations (kalavinkas), which originally hung in Konjiki-dō.

Mōtsū-ji

毛越寺 • Aza Osawa 58 • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥500, including museum • 019 146 2331, motsuji.or.jp

The Heian-period temple complex of Mōtsū-ji, a delightful spot for a stroll, lies less than ten minutes’ walk west from Hiraizumi Station. In the twelfth century, the Fujiwara added to the temple itself, originally founded in 850, until it was the largest in northern Honshū. Only a few foundation stones of the original temple remain, along with Japan’s best-preserved Heian garden, the Jōdo-teien, whose main feature is a large lake, speckled with symbolic “islands”, in the midst of velvety lawns. You’ll find flowers in bloom almost every season, but the most spectacular display comes in late June, when thirty thousand irises burst into colour. The small museum to the left of the entrance displays photos of Mōtsū-ji’s colourful festivals and some treasures such as ancient Buddha statues, though without any English descriptions.

The garden’s annual poetry competition, Gokusui no En (last Sun in May), re-creates a pastime from a bygone era. Participants, dressed in traditional clothes, sit writing by a stream, under umbrellas. As they compose their poems, cups of sake are floated to them on the water and their completed works are read aloud by a master of ceremonies.

Takkoku-no-Iwaya

達谷窟 • Nishiiwai-gun • Daily: April to late Nov 8am–5pm; late Nov to March 8am–4.30pm • ¥300 • 019 146 4931, iwayabetto.com

Located on the outskirts of Hiraizumi, past Mōtsū-ji, Takkoku-no-Iwaya is a small but unusual temple partly built into a cliff face. As well as the main building, inside of which is a cave which contains a statue of Bishamonten, you can see a large image of the face of Buddha carved into the rock.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HIRAIZUMI AND AROUND

By train Hiraizumi is on the Tōhuku main line; change at Ichinoseki, the nearest Shinkansen station, for connections to and from Sendai.

Destinations Hanamaki (hourly; 40min); Ichinoseki (hourly; 10min); Kitakami (hourly; 30min); Morioka (hourly; 1hr 20min).

Tourist information The tourist offices at the station – one inside, one just outside – have English maps and leaflets (daily 9am–5pm; 019 146 2110, hiraizumi.or.jp). You can rent multilingual audioguides here (¥500), which cover all Hiraizumi's main sights.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Regular buses connect the station with Mōtsū-ji and Chūson-ji – though not Takkoku-no-Iwaya – on the Run Run loop line (both ¥150; day pass ¥400), and also with Ichinoseki (¥320).

By bike Hiraizumi Rent-a-cycle (April–Nov 8am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4pm; 019 146 5086), by the station, rent bikes (¥800/3hr, ¥1000/day) and ebikes (¥600/3hr, ¥1300/day).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

As well as a couple of restaurants lining the road from the station to Mōtsū-ji temple, several more near Chūson-ji serve noodles and classic dishes, albeit at slightly inflated prices. If you fancy a picnic, head for the small supermarket on the road to Mōtsū-ji.

Daimonjiyama Camp-jō Nagashima 大文字山キャンプ場 51-661 Yamada 019 146 5564. This campsite, attractively located on lush slopes 7km east of the station, across the river and best reached by taxi, is an appealing deal in spring and summer. Pitch ¥200, plus tent rental per person ¥300

Hiraizumi Hotel Musashi-bō 平泉ホテル武蔵坊 15 Ōsawa 019 146 2241, www.musasibou.co.jp. Admittedly this massive concrete hotel, on the hillside 850m northwest of the station towards Chūson-ji, has seen better days, but even if its tatami rooms are a bit rundown, the food is good, and its large onsen baths enjoy panoramic views. Rates include two meals. ¥22,000

Izumi Sobaya 泉そば屋 75 Izumiya 019 146 2038. On the north side of the station, just before the crossroads, this small and simple place serves good-value soba teishoku (traditional set menu) from ¥570. Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm.

Seoul Shokudō ソウル食堂 115-6 Shirayama 019 146 5199. A yakiniku (Korean barbecue) restaurant that has set meals, an English menu and a good range of vegetarian choices, with individual dishes starting at ¥670. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat & Sun 10am–2pm & 5pm–midnight.

Ichinoseki

一関

There’s nothing especially distinguished about the small town of ICHINOSEKI, other than the fact that it holds the closest Shinkansen station to Hiraizumi, 8km north. Its good transport connections, however, coupled with the assortment of business hotels, bars and restaurants clustered near the station – and one excellent local brewery complex – make it a convenient overnight base for visiting not only Hiraizumi itself, but also the Geibikei and Genbikei gorges.

Seki no Ichi Brewery

嬉の一酒造, Seki no Ichi Shuz ō • 5-42 Tamura-chō • Daily: brewery 11am–9pm; restaurant 11am–2pm & 5–9pm • Free • 019 121 1144, sekinoichi.co.jp

The 100-year-old Seki-no-Ichi Brewery offers several interesting experiences. Every evening you can head into the main sake brewery for a tour and tasting (¥500, or ¥2500 with dinner). If you’re not a fan of the Japanese national drink, opt for one of the three daily beer tours – Seki-no-Ichi added craft beer to their repertoire in 1995 (free, or ¥1200 with tasting). It’s also worth trying the intriguing multi-dish mochi meals for which Iwate-kōen is known at Restaurant Kuramoto – around 300 varieties of sticky rice cake have been recorded in the region.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ICHINOSEKI

By train Ichinoseki is on the Tōhoku Shinkansen and Tōhoku main JR lines, and is the terminal for Geibikei and Kesennuma trains.

Destinations Geibikei (every 1–2hr; 30min); Hiraizumi (hourly; 10min); Kesennuma (every 1–2hr; 1hr 25min); Kogota (hourly; 50min); Morioka (every 30min; 40min–1hr 30min); Sendai (hourly; 35min); Shin-Hanamaki (every 30min; 25min).

By bus Frequent buses run to local destinations from Ichinoseki Station.

Destinations Chūson-ji (every 15–20min; 25min); Geibikei (9–11 daily; 30–40min); Hiraizumi (every 15–20min; 20min; last bus Mon–Sat 7pm, Sun 6.30pm).

Tourist information The tourist office at Ichinoseki Station has English maps and brochures (daily 9am–5.30pm; 019 123 2350, ichitabi.jp).

Kesennuma

気仙沼

In the friendly fishing port of KESENNUMA, you can eat delicious fresh fish, laze on sandy beaches, and learn how Tōhoku is recovering from the impact of the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. The city was particularly badly hit, with a four-day blaze (caused by oil spilled from tankers which washed ashore) destroying many of the buildings which survived the initial disasters. Over 800 people died and over 1000 more were declared missing. Today, Kesennuma marks the southernmost part of the beautiful Sanriku Fukko National Park, and is becoming a model of community-based tourism in the region.

GEIBIKEI GORGE

The Hiraizumi area boasts two river gorges with confusingly similar names. Geibikei (猊鼻渓) – the more impressive of the two, as opposed to Genbikei (厳美渓) – is a narrow defile, 20km east of Hiraizumi and best viewed by boat. You can get there by bus (stop #7; 45min; ¥1000 all-day pass) or train (JR Ōfunato line to Geibikei station; 9 daily; 30min; ¥500) from Ichinoseki Station– an attractive ride either way. The dock is clearly signposted from the bus stop and train station.

The Geibikei boat trip is a lot of fun (7–10 departures daily: April–Aug 8.30am–4.30pm, Sept to late Nov 8.30am–3.30pm, late Nov to March 9.30am–3pm; 1hr 30min; ¥1800; 019 147 2341, geibikei.co.jp). When you reach the end of the gorge you'll have a chance to throw small stones (undama; 5 for ¥500) marked with the kanji for love, longevity and so on towards a sliver of a gap in the rock. Get one in, and you'll apparently be lucky in that area of your life.

Despite poling fairly sizeable wooden punts upstream for 2km, the boatmen still find breath to regale their passengers with local legends, details of the passing flora and endless statistics about the gorge. They also sing a local folk song, a haunting melody which mixes the poetic with the practical – "As I pole my boat on the clear waters of the Satetsu River, the clouds that dull my heart are dispelled by the Lion's Snout. Come see for yourself … Take the Ōfunato Line, it's not far from Ichinoseki." Everything is in Japanese, of course, but the general mirth is infectious.

The port

Over 80 percent of jobs in Kesennuma are still linked to fishing, so it's no surprise that the thriving port is the heart of the city. It's worth visiting simply to enjoy the view across the bay, and to marvel at the enormous fishing vessels. Visitors can see the freshly landed catch at the Kesennuma Fish Market (busiest before 8am), then enjoy a sashimi lunch at nearby Murasakijinja-mae Shōtengai. Initially a temporary structure for businesses without premises following the disaster, it proved so successful that the shops, restaurants and bars are still open years later.

Disaster Memorial Museum

気仙沼市東日本大震災遺構・伝承館, Kesennuma-shi Higashi-Nihon Dai-shinsai Ikō Denshō-kan • 9-1 Hajikamisemukai • Tues–Sun: April–Sept 9.30am–5pm; Oct–March 9.30am–4pm (last entry 1hr before closing; closed 11th of every month) • ¥600 • 022 628 9671, kesennuma-memorial.jp • 20min walk from Rikuzen-Hashikami on the BRT line

After passing so many new and restored buildings, the damaged school housing the Disaster Memorial Museum can come as a shock. Though all the students were safely evacuated, Kesennuma Koyō High School was left beyond repair, and it was decided that it should be preserved as a memorial. The route starts with a video showing footage of the disaster – carefully balanced to convey the terror of the event without being gratuitous – before leading you through the building and up to the roof, from where there's a clear view of the ocean nearby. The debris has been left exactly as it was, everything from an upturned car to gym clothes spilling from a dented locker, and water-damaged science textbooks scattered across the classroom floor.

MEETING THE LOCALS

Undoubtedly the best way to see Kesennuma is through the eyes of the locals. Even if you've only got a day or so to spend here, try to book a couple of experiences which allow you to meet and talk to the people who are striving to rebuild their city with the help of tourism.

The tourist organization has worked hard to make these activities accessible to foreign visitors, putting several up on Airbnb ( bit.ly/kesennuma-airbnb). Among them is a tour and tasting at sake brewery Otokoyama Honten, which resumed brewing with the help of the community the day after the tsunami (1hr 30min; ¥1500). Zazen meditation at Seiryo-in, a temple which sheltered people of all religious backgrounds after the disaster, is also fascinating (4hr 30min; ¥6000). You can chat with the monks over a home-cooked meal afterwards – and if they’ve got time, they might even join you for drinks and karaoke.

Contact the tourist office to ask about other English-language experiences ( kesennuma-kanko.jp), including the chance to go out on the water with local fishermen or oyster farmers (¥4000/person; visitmiyagi.com/articles/karakuwa-oyster-fishing-tour). You can also try stand-up paddleboarding with Ōshima Paddle Club (May–Oct, from 2hr; from ¥5000, plus ¥1000 for wetsuit rental; oshimapaddleclub.com), which started leading SUP trips with locals as a way of reconnecting to the sea after the tsunami.

Ōshima

大島 • Ferry from Kesennuma port to Ura-no-hama (16 daily, 25min; ¥410; oshimakisen.com), or bus (7 daily, 35min)

Lushly forested and dotted with beaches and unusual rock formations, Ōshima makes an appealing sight in the bay of Kesennuma. The island's 3000 residents were left temporarily isolated after the tsunami cut off the ferry service, but with the addition in 2019 of a beautiful new bridge to the mainland, it's now more accessible than ever. Oda-no-hama (30min walk from the ferry) is a popular white-sand beach, and a good place from which to start exploring the island. A short hike or bike ride uphill (a section of which is covered by a lift) is Kameyama Observatory, by the 1000-year-old Ōshima shrine at the island's highest point. From here, you can see over the grids of oyster farms close to the shore, the sprawling city on the mainland, and of course the expanse of the Pacific Ocean.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KESENNUMA

By train Most routes to Kesennuma are via Ichinoseki, from where there are regular JR trains (1hr 15min, ¥1170) which also pass through Geibikei.

Tourist information The main office is in the port area's Umi no Ichi building ( kesennuma-kanko.jp). The Ōshima Island Welcome Terminal is at Ura-no-hama, a 5min walk from the ferry (daily 9am–5pm; oshima-kanko.jp).

GETTING AROUND

By bus The JR Kesennuma train line has been replaced by a quick, efficient BRT (bus rapid transit) system along the same route. The Ōshima bus runs in a loop from the mainland to the island’s main points of interest (Kesennuma Station to Ura-no-hama 30min; ¥510).

By bike Bike rental is available at Kesennuma Station (¥500; e-bikes ¥700). E-bikes can also be rented from Ōshima Island Welcome Terminal (daily 9am–5pm; 2hr ¥500, 1 day ¥1000).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

The Murasakijinja-mae Shōtengai ( kesennumafs.com) is a great place for dinner or drinks, with several restaurants and izakaya. Try Okei Chaya for unusual aged sake, some bottles over 40 years old (daily 6–10pm; 090 7792 6327), and Umi no Ie for friendly staff and a great range of fish dishes (Mon & Wed–Sun 5–11pm; 090 3364 8948).

Guesthouse Kakehashi ゲストハウス架け橋 55-3 Nagaisomae-bayashi 022 625 7739. This simple, welcoming guesthouse, a 20min walk from the Disaster Memorial Museum, was initially opened to house volunteers helping with reconstruction. Today it serves as a hostel and community centre, with plenty of events for locals and tourists alike. Breakfast ¥500. Dorms ¥3900

K-port ケ・ポート 1-3 Minatomachi 022 625 9915, k-port-kesennuma.org. This stylish café by the port was established in 2013 by actor Ken Watanabe, who has close ties to the area (and sends a handwritten fax most days). Serves light meals (around ¥1000), snacks, sweets and drinks. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–5pm (occasionally later).

Kesennuma Plaza Hotel 気仙沼プラザホテル 1-1-Kashiwazaki 022 623 1313, pkanyo.jp. This slightly run-down hotel has an ideal location right by the port, and excellent hot-spring baths (small tattoos accepted). Go for a Japanese-style room if you can, and splash out on a harbour-facing room for a glorious view. Buffet breakfast ¥1100, dinner ¥4400. Bicycle rental available. ¥19,800

The Tōno valley

Set in a bowl of low mountains in the heart of one of Japan’s poorest regions, the town of Tōno is surrounded by the flat Tōno valley. The people of Tōno and the farmers of the valley take pride in their living legacy of farming and folk traditions, embodied by the district’s magariya – large, L-shaped farmhouses – and the focus of several museums devoted to the old ways. This area is most famous for its folk tales, known as Tōno Monogatari; references to these legends and traces of primitive cults are everywhere you look, along with ancient shrines and rock carvings, all serving to permeate the valley with a mysterious undercurrent. Allow a couple of days to do it all justice.

Flat, peaceful roads and a slow rural pace of life make this region especially suited to explorations by bike. Cycle paths lead to and around the main sights and can easily be covered in a day’s leisurely riding. The valley’s eastern portion is especially lovely, and in many areas you really feel as though you’ve stepped back in time.

Tōno

遠野

TŌNO itself is a small town set among flat rice lands, with orchards and pine forests cloaking the surrounding hills. Although it’s mainly useful for its hotels, banks and other facilities, it does hold a couple of museums worth seeing before you set off around the valley.

Tōno Municipal Museum

遠野市立博物館, Tōno Shiritsu Hakubutsukan • 3-9 Higashidate-chō • April–Oct daily 9am–5pm; Nov–March Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; also closed last day of most months • ¥300; English audioguides free • 019 862 2340, tonoculture.com/tono-museum

Just over 500m south of the station, across a small stream, you’ll find the Tōno Municipal Museum at the back of a modern red-brick building that also contains the town library. Its entertaining exhibitions and videos provide a thorough overview of Tōno’s festivals, crafts, agricultural traditions and local environment. It's all very thoughtfully done, and the displays are complemented by a comprehensive foreign-language audioguide.

Tōno Folktale and Storytelling Centre

とおの昔話村, Tōno Mukashi-banashi-mura • 2-11 Chuō-dōri • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 with Castle Town Materials Museum • 019 862 7887

The Tōno Folktale and Storytelling Centre, five minutes’ walk south of the station, dedicates itself to bringing Tōno’s folk tales alive. Its interactive multimedia displays are entertaining enough to hold your interest even if you don’t understand the captions and commentary, which are largely in Japanese, though the live storytelling sessions (daily 11am, 1pm & 2pm; 20min) are way beyond the grasp of non-native speakers. The various buildings in the on-site “village” include the inn where Yanagita Kunio stayed while researching local legends; exhibits offer an insight into his life and times, though with only a smattering of English captions.

Tickets also include admission to the tiny Tōno Castle Town Materials Museum (遠野城下町資料館, Tonō Jōkamachi Shiryōkan; same hours), just on the restored pedestrian street that starts across the road, which exhibits historical artefacts including armour, weapons, tableware, textiles and paintings.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TŌNO

By train To reach Tōno by train, change off the Shinkansen line at Shin-Hanamaki, or the north–south JR Tōhoku line at Hanamaki, and catch the JR Kamaishi line for the scenic journey east to Tōno Station. Very infrequently, the route is served by an extraordinary deluxe steam train, themed in honour of Kenji Miyazama’s celebrated 1927 novel Night on the Galactic Railroad and named the SL Ginga ( bit.ly/sl-ginga). A few trains on the Kamaishi line each day come all the way from Morioka to Tōno, via Hanamaki.

Destinations Hanamaki (9 daily; 50min–1hr 15min); Morioka (3 daily; 1hr 25min); Shin-Hanamaki (9 daily; 45min–1hr).

Tourist information Tōno’s tourist office, by the station, hands out maps and brochures covering both town and valley, some in English (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 019 862 1333, tonojikan.jp). The attached shop stocks The Legends of Tōno and many locally produced items. Ask about the combination ticket (¥1290), which gives you access to five out of seven nearby attractions, including the Municipal Museum, Folktale and Storytelling Centre and Furusato-mura.

GETTING AROUND

By bus By far the most useful of the local buses that run from outside Tōno Station are those that head northeast to Denshō-en and Furusato-mura, and pass close to the Tōno Youth Hostel. Check with the tourist office for schedules.

By bike The tourist office station rents bicycles (¥620/3hr; up to ¥1020/day; add ¥300 for ebikes) and has maps showing recommended cycling routes. Bikes must be returned by 5pm, unless you're staying in the area and rent them overnight.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Kuranoya くら乃屋 45-136 Sanchiwari, Kōkōji, Matsuzaki-chō 019 860 1360, kuranoya-tono.com. Rural B&B, run by a welcoming and very helpful English-speaking (and cat-loving) couple, across the river 3km northwest of the station, on the valley’s western slopes. Three of the five en-suite Japanese-style rooms are eight-tatami, the others twelve-tatami. Rates include breakfast, while dinner is available for ¥1000. ¥12,600

Minshuku Tōno 民宿とおの 2-17 Zaimoku-chō 019 862 4395, minshuku-tono.com. Friendly family-run minshuku, just north of the railway tracks 5min from the station. The eleven rooms have seen better days, and share bathroom facilities, but the dining room, with its open hearth and excellent rustic food, compensates. Rates include two meals, and single rooms are available. ¥15,400

Tōno Youth Hostel 遠野ユースホステル 13-39-5 Tsuchibuchi-chō 019 862 8736, tono-yh.com. Delightful little hostel, set amid the rice fields 5km northeast of central Tōno; catch a bus from Tōno Station to Nitagai, then walk for 10min. There are two four-bed dorms, which share indoor and outdoor baths, which can also be rented as private rooms, while the genial manager speaks good English and has basic bikes for rent. The home cooking is excellent and highly recommended, which is just as well as there no restaurants nearby; breakfast costs ¥600, dinner ¥1200. Dorms ¥3500

EATING MAP

Local speciality foods to sample in the area’s restaurants and minshuku include hitsuko soba, small bowls of rough, handmade noodles eaten with a mix of chicken, raw egg, onion and mushrooms, and the regional dish, nambu hitssumi (or suiton), a soup laced with seasonal vegetables and dumplings. The Tōno shopping mall, a block southeast of the station in the Topia Department Store, holds a well-stocked supermarket plus a small farmers’ market selling fresh fruit and vegetables.

Commons Space コモンズ・スペース 5-32 Chūō-dōri 019 868 3544, commonsspace.jp. This friendly spot near the Folktale and Storytelling Centre acts as an event and co-working space as well as a lovely café. Meals are typically ¥900–1200, while sweets start at ¥350. You'll usually spot local items being sold, too, everything from craft pieces to freshly picked vegetables. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 11.30am–6pm.

THE LEGENDS OF TŌNO

When the far-sighted folklorist Yanagita Kunio visited Tōno in 1909, he found a world that was still populated by the shadowy figures of demons and other generally malevolent spirits, whom the farmers strove to placate using ancient rituals. The following year, he published the first book to tap the rich oral traditions of rural Japan, Tōno Monogatari (The Legends of Tōno). He heard the 118 tales from Kyōseki Sasaki (or Kizen), the educated son of a Tōno peasant, to whom goblins, ghosts and gods were part of everyday life.

People in Tōno still talk about Zashiki Warashi, a mischievous child spirit who can be heard running at night and is said to bring prosperity to the household. Another popular tale tells of a farmer’s beautiful daughter who fell in love with the family horse. When the farmer heard that his child had married the horse, he hanged it from a mulberry tree, only for his grieving daughter to be whisked off to heaven clinging to her lover.

Probably the most popular character from the legends is the kappa, an ugly water creature who, although not unique to Tōno, seems to exist here in large numbers. You’ll find kappa images everywhere in town, including postboxes and outside the station; even the police box is kappa-esque. The traditional kappa has long skinny limbs, webbed hands and feet, a sharp beak, and a hollow on the top of his head that has to be kept full of water. He’s usually green, sometimes with a red face, and his principal pastime is pulling young children into ponds and rivers. Should you happen to meet a real kappa, remember to bow – on returning your bow, the water will flow out of the hollow on his head, and he’ll have to hurry off to replenish it.

The tourist office issues “City Permits to Catch Kappa”, with which you're allowed to try fishing for the mischievous creatures (with cucumbers, their preferred snack) in designated rivers, with the stipulation that "if you catch a Kappa, you should notify the Tōno City Tourism Association".

Itō-ke 伊藤家 2-11 Chūō-dōri 019 860 1110. Simple, high-quality noodle place, adjoining the Folktale Centre 500m south of the station and open for lunch only. Soba dishes, including their chicken-based hitssumi, cost from ¥700. Daily 11am–5pm.

Taigetsu 待月 3-1 Shinkoku-chō 019 862 4933. This cosy café, 100m straight down the main street from the station, serves good cake and coffee (¥550) along with slightly pricier small dishes like cheese on toast, pizza, curry and ramen. Daily 10am–9pm.

Ume-no-ya うめのや 2-2 Shinkoku-chō 019 862 2622. Opposite Taigetsu, a minute’s walk south of the station, this simple restaurant offers decent portions of curry rice, ebi-fry (fried prawns), omelettes from ¥600 and set meals from ¥1000. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–8pm.

West of Tōno

The main valley narrows west of Tōno, funnelling the road and railway along beside the Sarugaishi-gawa. The wooded southern hillside hides some unusual shrines and an appealing group of Buddha images, which makes one of the best short trips out of Tōno. Note that the imposing Chiba Magariya, however, a celebrated farmhouse 11km up the valley, is closed for restoration, and is not expected to reopen until at least 2025.

Unedori-jinja

卯子酉神社 • 2.5km southwest of Tōno Station • Accessible during daylight hours • Free

Head west out of Tōno on the south side of the river, on the old Route 283, and look out for a stone staircase on the left. At the bottom of the steps, past the house, you’ll find a pine tree festooned with red and white ribbons. Behind it lies Unedori-jinja, a tiny shrine dedicated to the god in charge of matrimonial affairs; if you want to get married, tie a red ribbon onto the tree with your left hand.

Gohyaku Rakan

五百羅漢 • 2.8km southwest of Tōno Station

To reach the Gohyaku Rakan, climb the stone staircase alongside Unedori-jinja, cross a lane and follow the path into a narrow, wooded valley filled with mossy stones. Keep looking closely at the stones: at first you won’t see anything, but gradually faint outlines appear, then full faces and rounded bodies, until you’re seeing little figures everywhere. There are supposedly five hundred of these Buddhist “disciples”, which were carved by a local monk in the late eighteenth century to pacify the spirits of the victims of a terrible famine in 1754.

Northeast of Tōno

The broad valley northeast of Tōno holds several somewhat touristy “folk villages” aimed at preserving the old crafts. The best one to visit is Furusato-mura, though the smaller Denshō-en and Sui-kōen are slightly more accessible. Other sights to aim for include a kappa pool, an old watermill and a temple housing Japan’s tallest Kannon statue. However, the chief highlight hereabouts is the scenery of rice fields and rolling hills, dotted with the occasional thatched farmhouse.

Denshō-en

伝承園 • 6-5-1 Tsuchibuchi, 5km northeast of Tōno Station • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥320 • 019 862 8655, densyoen.jp • Hourly buses on route #340 from Tōno stop at either end of the village (15–20min; ¥320)

The museum village of Denshō-en preserves buildings relocated from around Tōno, including a waterwheel, storehouses and a magariya, where local folk demonstrate weaving, rope-making and other crafts. A small shrine at the back of the magariya is filled with brightly dressed dolls, which represent Oshira-sama, an agricultural deity worshipped throughout northern Honshū. According to legend, Tōno’s original Oshira-sama came from the same tree on which the horse-husband died. The deities, often used by blind mediums, are also supposed to predict the future – hence all the prayer papers tied around the shrine.

Jōken-ji

常堅寺 • 7-50 Tsuchibuchi, 5.4km northeast of Tōno Station • 24hr • Free

Immediately east of Denshō-en, a signposted turn to the right leads in around 400m to Jōken-ji. Founded in 1490, the temple is mainly of interest for its statue of Obinzuru-sama, a little figure in a cloak and hat with a very shiny appendage – the deity is supposed to cure illnesses if rubbed in the appropriate place. Behind the temple there’s a kappa pool, home to a particularly helpful kappa credited with dousing a fire in Jōken-ji. An eccentric local has also built a small shrine to himself beside the pool; if he’s around, he’ll probably regale you with incomprehensible but good-natured stories.

Fukusen-ji

福泉寺 • 7-57 Matsuzaki-chō, Komagi, 7km north of Tōno Station • April–Dec daily 8am–5pm • ¥300 • 019 862 3822

Coming from Tōno, a road branches north just before Denshō-en, and follows the main valley for another 2km to Fukusen-ji, a temple founded in 1912 and renowned for its 17m-tall image of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Completed in 1963, the slender gilded statue has a blue hairdo and is claimed to be the largest wooden statue in Japan; carving it from a single tree trunk took twelve years. It stands in an attractive temple at the top of the hill, where the artist’s tools, and photos of the huge tree being brought to Tōno by train, are also on display.

To cycle to Tōno from Fukusen-ji, take the road back towards Denshō-en for about a minute, then turn onto the Tōno-Towa Bicycle Path indicated by the happy kappa sign to the right. This 8km-long cycleway winds through rice fields and along streams before joining Route 396 for the final 2km.

Furusato-mura

ふるさと村 • Kamitukimoushi, Tukimoushi-chō 5-89-1, 10km north of Tōno Station • Daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4pm; last entry 1hr before closing • ¥540, workshops ¥600–1000 • 019 864 2300, tono-furusato.jp • Some Denshō-en buses continue up the valley (every 1–2hr; 25min; ¥510)

The largest and most attractive of Tōno’s folk museums, Furusato-mura, stands 3km northwest of Denshō-en. It’s a close approximation to a working village, complete with rice fields, vegetable plots and duck ponds. The five refurbished magariya on the hillside date from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; pensioners sit beside smoking hearths, busily making souvenirs such as straw slippers, wooden kappa and bamboo baskets. The old folk also run a number of workshops, including how to make straw horses and bamboo dragonflies, as well as soba making and mochi-pounding. You can buy their handiwork in the museum shop, where a small restaurant serves good-value lunch sets.

East of Denshō-en

たかむろ水光園, Takamuro Sui-kōen • 7-175-2 Tsuchibuchi-chō, 8km northeast of Tōno Station • Daily 10am–4pm (bath until 9pm); closed 4th Mon of every month • ¥320; bath ¥540 • 019 862 2834, tono-suikouen.jp

Although the most beautiful part of the Tōno valley lies east of Denshō-en, to appreciate it you’ll have to get off onto the side roads. One attractive ride leads out to an old watermill then loops back past the third folk village, Takamuro Sui-kōen, which has a magariya, a kappa pool and displays of antique farm implements, as well as a solar-powered sauna and steam bath. Follow Route 340 for 3km east from Denshō-en, then fork right immediately after crossing a red-lacquered bridge. The lane climbs gently uphill, heading beyond some old farms to a small thatched watermill. En route, you pass the house of Kyōseki Sasaki, opposite which there’s a path signed to Dan-no-hana (ダンノハナ), a place where, in the not-so-distant past, anyone aged over sixty was sent to die. Here, however, the elderly residents got bored of waiting, so they came down to work the fields during the day and returned to their hill at night.

When you head back down to the main road, look out on the left for a turning signed to Denderano (デンデラ野). Follow this lane west for nearly 2km and you’ll come to Takamuro Sui-kōen.

Morioka

盛岡

A former castle town set at the confluence of three rivers, the small, congenial city of MORIOKA has few outstanding attractions beyond wandering through its older neighbourhoods and around the ruins of the castle itself. With its attractive setting, well-priced accommodation, interesting local cuisine and entertainment, though, Morioka makes a good stop on the journey through northern Honshū, and provides access to hikes around the nearby Hachimantai plateau.

Iwate-kōen

岩手公園 • 1-37 Uchimaru • 24hr • Free

Iwate-kōen, Morioka castle park, was once the seat of the Nambu lords. The castle itself, which took 36 years to complete (1597–1633), stood at the highest point in the city, atop a hill overlooking the river confluence that’s now a twenty-minute walk east of the station. Although only a small monument now commemorates the site of the fortress, destroyed during the Meiji Restoration, some of the mighty, maze-like walls and ramparts that once encircled it still remain. With its plants, trees, shrines and water features, however, the park makes a peaceful space for a stroll. Along its eastern edge, a pleasant riverside path follows the bank of Nakatsu-gawa.

MORIOKA FESTIVALS

Morioka plays host to two major summer festivals. At the end of the rice-planting season, the Chagu-Chagu Umakko (チャグチャグ馬コ; second Sat in June) features a 15km procession of a hundred richly caparisoned horses, ending at the city’s Hachiman-gū shrine. Then, in early August, thousands of dancers and drummers parade through town during the Sansa Odori (さんさ踊り; Aug 1–4), accompanied by flutes and followed by a general knees-up.

One block north of the park, a 300-year-old cherry tree, celebrated locally as the Ishiwari Sakura (石割桜) or “rock-splitting cherry”, emerges from a fissure in a rounded granite boulder. No one knows whether it really broke the rock open, but it’s a startling sight, especially when it blossoms in spring.

Morioka History and Culture Museum

もりおか歴史文化館, Morioka Rekishi Bunkakan • 1-50 Uchimaru, Iwate-kōen • Daily: April–Oct 9am–7pm; Nov–March 9am–6pm; closed 3rd Tues of each month • ¥300 • 019 681 2100, morireki.jp

There’s no faulting the high quality of the displays in the Morioka History and Culture Museum, a modern building within the castle park. Large-scale models plus illuminated maps and scrolls in the upstairs galleries trace the development of the city, while the sumptuous family treasures of the Nanbu clan are given pride of place. The one snag is the paucity of English captions, which means you’re likely to race through a bit faster than it deserves – check whether there are any English-speaking volunteer guides available, if you'd like more information.

Gozaku

こざ九

Cross the Nakatsu-gawa from the northeast corner of the castle park, via the Naka-no-hashi (中ノ橋), then turn immediately left, and you’ll come to a short row of traditional Meiji-era buildings known as Gozaku (こざ九). These now house stores selling simple local products such as brushes, straw and wicker goods, while fancier shops opposite specialize in the region’s most famous crafts, including heavy iron kettles and eye-catching cotton textiles dyed with intricate patterns. Appetizing odours greet you at the top of the street, where a shop turns out crispy nambu sembei, the local, wheat-based version of the large rice crackers you'll find throughout Japan. They're especially tasty sprinkled with sesame seeds or nuts; walk round the side and you can see the bakers hard at work.

Zaimoku-chō

材木町 盛岡

A traditional shopping street runs parallel to Kitakami-gawa through the small Zaimoku-chō neighbourhood, a five-minute walk northeast of the station on the opposite bank of the river. Several attractive boutiques and craft shops sell local specialities, including pottery, iron kettles, intricate textiles and colourful hand-painted paper kites.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MORIOKA

By train Morioka Station is west of the city centre; beyond the city, the Tōhoku Shinkansen line from Tokyo splits, heading north to Aomori and west to Akita.

Destinations Akita (hourly; 1hr 30min); Aomori (hourly; 1hr 20min); Hanamaki (every 30min; 30min); Kakunodate (hourly; 45min); Kitakami (every 30min; 15–50min); Sendai (every 30min; 40min); Shin-Hanamaki (every 30min; 10min); Tazawako (hourly; 35min); Tokyo (every 30min; 2hr 15min); Towada-Minami (4 daily; 2hr 15min).

By bus Local and long-distance buses depart from the east side of Morioka Station, with seasonal regional services including those to the Hachimantai plateau and Towada-ko ( iwate-kenpokubus.co.jp).

Destinations Aomori (4 daily; 3hr 30min); Hirosaki (hourly; 2hr 15min); Sendai (hourly; 2hr 40min); Tokyo (daily; 7hr 30min).

Tourist information Visitors can find Morioka’s city and regional tourist office on the second floor of the train station (daily 9am–5.30pm; 019 625 2090, www.japan-iwate.info).

GETTING AROUND

By bus The City Centre Loop Bus, also known as “Denden-mushi”, runs a 35min loop between the station and various central locations (all-day pass ¥300, or ¥100 per ride; 019 654 2141, iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/denden-multilingual.html).

By bike Cycle rental outlets include Saseki Bicycles, beside the river (daily 9am–6pm; ¥200/hr, ¥1000/day; 019 624 2692).

By car Rental offices at the station include Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 019 635 6605, nrgroup-global.com) and Eki Rent-a-Car ( 019 624 5212, www.ekiren.co.jp).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Ace ホテルエース 2-11-35 Chūō-dōri 019 654 3811, www.hotel-ace.co.jp. A 10min walk from the station, across the river, this is a good choice if you want to stay in the downtown area. The rooms are small but comfortable, and a little sprucer in the newer annexe. Rates include a large Japanese and Western buffet breakfast. ¥7900

Art Hotel Morioka アートホテル盛岡営業所 3-3-18 Ōdōri 019 625 2131, hotel-higashinihon-morioka.com. Rates vary widely by night, but you can get some excellent deals at this comfortable business hotel, conveniently located between the station and Ōdōri covered shopping arcade. Most rooms are Western-style (and the cheapest are quite cramped), but there are some attractive tatami rooms available too. Buffet breakfast ¥1620. ¥5600

Daiwa Roynet ダイワロイネット 1-8-10 Ōdōri 019 604 2155, daiwaroynet.jp. Good-value business hotel, with bright, reasonably sized rooms, on the loop bus route 1.2km northeast of the station, near Morioka’s main shopping and dining arcade as well as the principal sights. ¥9400

Kumagai Ryokan 熊ヶ井旅館 3-2-5 Ōsawakawara 019 651 3020, kumagairyokan.com. A short walk from the station over the river, this cosy old-fashioned ryokan is one of the best options in town, with a welcoming English-speaking owner, attractive tatami rooms, private and communal baths, and well-priced meals available (breakfast ¥1000, dinner ¥2000, Mon–Sat only). ¥9200

New City Hotel ニューシティホテル 13-10 Ekimae-dōri 019 651 5161, moriokacityhotel.co.jp. Handily tucked away close to the river, in a quiet spot just 350m from the station, this eight-storey brick-coloured block holds snug modern rooms aimed at business travellers. Rates include a rather pitiful breakfast. ¥7700

Hotel Royal Morioka ホテルロイヤル盛岡 1-11-11 Saien-dōri 019 653 1331, hotelroyalmorioka.co.jp. High-end hotel in the heart of the entertainment district, with spacious and elegantly furnished Western-style rooms. The two in-house restaurants, serving shabu-shabu and Korean barbecue, are complemented by a Starbucks on the ground floor. Breakfast available for ¥1430. ¥10,500

Tōyoko Inn Morioka Ekimae 東横INN盛岡駅前 14-5 Ekimae-dori 019 625 1045, toyoko-inn.com. Chain hotel, facing the station, with smart and clean rooms, very much targeted at Japanese business travellers. Rates include a light Japanese breakfast. ¥7800

EATING MAP

Azuma-ya Honten 東家本店 1-8-3 Nakanohashi-dōri 019 622 2252, wankosoba-azumaya.co.jp. This fine old restaurant, east across the Nakatsu-gawa from the castle park, is a good place to head to for wanko-soba, traditionally served in multiple tiny bowls. Unadorned noodles start at ¥550, with lunch sets from ¥2200 and wanko course menus (15 servings being equal to one regular bowl of soba) from ¥3000. This local chain also has outlets near the station and in the entertainment district. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–8pm.

Nagasawa Coffee ナガサワコーヒー 1-11-13 Ueda 019 681 6868, nagasawa-coffee.net. Minimalist café dominated by a huge Probat coffee roaster – unsurprisingly, the super fresh and meticulously prepared coffee drinks are the main draw here (¥330–770; refills ¥100 off). Also sells bags of coffee beans, so if you particularly like a blend you can take it home with you. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–8pm.

Pairon Honten 白龍本店 5-15 Uchimaru 019 624 2247 pairon.iwate.jp. One of the most popular places for ja-ja men, just off Ōdōri, across from Iwate-kōen; walk under the big torii, and it’s on your left. The huge, cheap portions are so filling that staff advise first-time customers to try the regular (futsū; ¥500) size first; an egg to drop in your soup costs another ¥50. Expect queues during peak lunch and dinner hours. Mon–Sat 9am–9pm & Sun 11.30am–7pm.

Pyon Pyon Sha ぴょんぴょん舎 9-3 Ekimae-dōri 019 606 1067, pyonpyonsyamoriokaekimae.gorp.jp. Reimen specialist, on the main road a very short walk ahead from the station’s east exit. A helping of cold noodles with beef costs ¥900; the “original style” is the least spicy, but they also serve all sorts of hotter Korean pickles and soups. Daily 11am–midnight.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

For a small city, Morioka has a surprisingly bustling nightlife with a thriving club scene and plenty of bars. The main areas for drinking and entertainment are in the streets on either side of the covered Ōdori shopping arcade.

HIKES AROUND MORIOKA

The highest peak in Tōhoku, Iwate-san (岩手山; 2041m), dominates Morioka’s northern horizon. It marks the eastern edge of the Hachimantai plateau, a beautiful area for hiking among marshes and pine forests. While the actual summit of the volcano is an immensely challenging trek, and tends in any case to be off limits to visitors, you can spend a wonderful day walking around the plateau to the north of Iwate-san, from where it’s an easy stroll to the less daunting summit of Hachimantai (八幡平; 1613m). From the Hachimantai Chōjō bus stop, a well-marked path leads to the summit (40min) across the Hachiman-numa marshes. Afterwards, you can wander assorted tracks across the plateau, enjoying views south to the barren slopes of Iwate-san.

A couple of infrequent summer-only bus routes connect Morioka with Hachimantai Chōjō, taking between two and two and a half hours (one-way around ¥1320; iwate-kenpokubus.co.jp). Precise timetables change each year; ask at Morioka’s tourist office for the latest details.

THE NOODLES OF MORIOKA

One highlight of visiting Morioka is its cuisine. The city’s most famous speciality is wanko-soba, named after the small bowls in which the thin, flat buckwheat noodles are served. They’re often eaten as a contest, during which diners don an apron and shovel down as many bowls as possible while a waitress relentlessly dishes up more; to stop, you have to get the top on to your emptied bowl – easier said than done.

Another rather odd Morioka concoction, reimen, was originally a summer dish, though you can easily find it year-round here as well as in other parts of Japan. It consists of a large bowl of cold, semi-transparent, slightly chewy egg noodles eaten with Korean kimchi (spicy pickled vegetables) plus assorted garnishes that might include boiled egg, sesame seeds and slices of apple or cold meat.

One last local speciality is another unusual noodle dish: ja-ja men, a bowl of thick, white noodles (a bit like udon) that comes with a few slices of cucumber, red pickles and a slab of brown miso paste (usually with ground meat added). Many local noodle shops serve ja-ja men; mix up the miso paste and noodles once you are served and, if you’re still hungry when you’ve finished, crack open and beat up a raw egg in your bowl and hand it to your server, who will pour broth over it to make chii tantan, a palate-cleansing soup. It’s a little bland if eaten straight, so most locals add either grated ginger or miso paste to give it a bit more flavour.

Mad Disco マッド・ディスコー B1 1-6-3 Hinoshita 019 681 6660, maddisco2010.com. The place to go for Japanese-style R&B and hip-hop, with the cream of the region’s DJs and MCs providing the tunes. Cover charge ¥1000–2000, usually including two drinks; women get in free on some nights. Hours vary; usually Tues–Sun 10pm–late.

Mother Club モザー・クラブ 3F Plaza Tiger Bld, 1-6-17 Ōdōri 019 651 0530, mother-morioka.com. This small and friendly club has earned a big reputation for its eclectic mix of music, and attracts top Japanese and international DJs. Check website for current schedule. Hours vary; usually Tues–Sat 10pm–4am.

Sun Dance サンダンス 2-4-22 Ōdōri 019 652 6526. This busy Irish bar is popular with expats and serves Tex-Mex dishes (tacos ¥400) and other pub grub. Try the "red hot calamari" (¥700) and, if it's not spicy enough, ask the friendly owner, Hitoshi, for the fiery house-made hot sauce. Also has an excellent range of imported beers, including Guinness on tap, as well as nihonshu and specials on jugs of cocktails. Hours vary; usually Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 5pm–2am.

SHOPPING MAP

Ōdōri and Saien-dōri are Morioka’s two major shopping streets, with a good selection of large department stores including Park Avenue and Cube II, as well as smaller independent retailers. Regional crafts to look out for include Nambu ironware, dyed cotton textiles and plain wooden kokeshi dolls.

Kamasada Honten 釜定 本店 2-5 Konya-chō 019 622 3911. Fine old store in the Gozaku merchants’ neighbourhood, specializing in heavyweight traditional cast-iron kettles and the like. Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm.

Kōgensha 光原社 2-18 Zaimoku-chō 019 622 2894, morioka-kogensya.sakura.ne.jp. Centred around a lovely courtyard, this craftshop, Kōgensha, sells modern and traditional pottery, ironware, paper and bamboo designs. It also has a café at the back. Daily 10am–6pm.

Hachinohe and around

八戸

The friendly city of HACHINOHE, 85km southeast of Aomori, is a breath of fresh sea air after the tourist-filled cities farther south. Not only does it mark the northernmost point of the Sanriku Fukkō National Park, and the start of the 1000km-long Michinoku Coastal Trail, it also makes a good base for visiting the Shimokita Hantō.

Start in the downtown area at the Hachinohe Portal Museum (daily 9am–9pm; closed 2nd Tues every month; hacchi.jp), with exhibitions on the region’s history, crafts, wildlife and industries. It also covers Hachinohe’s festivals: the Enburi Matsuri (Feb 17–20), where locals in elaborate horse-like headdresses dance in the snow; and the Sansha Taisai Matsuri, in which overwhelmingly huge, colourful floats are paraded through the streets (July 31–Aug 4). Opposite Hacchi is Miroku-yokochō, the largest of the city’s yokochō, alleyways lined with tiny bars and lively restaurants.

Kushihiki Hachimangū

櫛引八幡宮 • Shrine Daily dawn–dusk • Free • National Treasure Museum Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400 • 017 827 3053, kushihikihachimangu.com • Bus from Hachinohe Station to Kushihiki Hachimangū-mae stop (20min; ¥340)

In the southwest of the city, Kushihiki Hachimangū is an attractive shrine with intricate wood carvings. Its modern museum displays two stunning sets of samurai armour, both designated National Treasures; you can get close enough to really admire the details of each. Just outside the shrine precincts is an excellent traditional confectionary shop, Maneidō (萬栄堂; Mon & Wed–Sun 8.30am–7pm; 017 827 3017), famous for its manjū dumplings.

Nejō

根城 • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm (plus 1st Mon each month) • ¥250; ¥1200 with yawata uma activity • 017 841 1726, hachinohe-cb.jp/nejo • Bus from Hachinohe Station to Nejō stop (15min; ¥220)

Built in the fourteenth century by the Nanbu lords, Nejō (Ne Castle) sits in a pleasant grassy area south of the Mabechi River. Shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered its destruction in the 1590s, and it wasn’t until the twentieth century that the site’s importance was recognized. Now, several of the motte-and-bailey structures have been rebuilt, including stables (the region is famous for its horses), storerooms and a forge. You can also decorate your own yawata uma here (around 30min), a small wooden horse – usually black or red and decorated with vivid patterns – which has been a popular toy and craft item for centuries.

Minatomachi

港町

The Minatomachi district, around the docks, is home to the biggest morning market in Japan. Over 300 stalls set up weekly at Tatehana Wharf Morning Market (mid-March to Dec, Sun dawn–9am; minatonichiyouasaichikai.com; 15min from downtown by ISABA loop bus, ¥100), selling everything from sea pineapples to fresh soymilk, and fried chicken to cut flowers. Arrive as early as possible. On weekdays, visit the smaller Mutsu-Minato Market (Mon–Sat 3–10am) for a cheap breakfast of super-fresh sashimi which you’ve picked out yourself. The women who tend the stalls are affectionately known as isaba-no-kaccha, or “market mothers”.

After breakfast, head to Hachinohe Shuzō (八戸酒造; 9 Hon-chō; mutsu8000.com), a popular local sake brewery which offers tours and tastings (Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, plus Sat in winter; tours 1hr, ¥500).

Tanesashi Kaigan

種差海岸

Stretching south from Hachinohe along the Pacific coast is the Tanesashi Kaigan (Tanesashi Coast), known for its beautiful, jagged rock formations and lush pine forests. At the its northern end of the trail is Kabushima-jinja, a picturesque spot on a promontory also known as “seagull shrine” (it’s a breeding site for black-tailed gulls). Don’t worry if you end up with bird droppings on you – apparently it’s supposed to be good luck. The shrine sells unnervingly similar-looking scatological cookies, which are dispensed from the back end of a cardboard seagull.

Head south from here to tackle the first stretch of the 1000km-long Michinoku Coastal Trail, on foot or by bike route is good for both walking and cycling (3hr e-bike rental ¥1000; bit.ly/tanesashibike). A leisurely walk from Kabushima to Tanesashi Kaigan Station – a large grassy area by Tanesashi Kaigan Station – takes around 3 hours 15 minutes, and you can do some sections by bus (Umineko Tanesashi sightseeing bus; mid-April to mid-Nov daily, rest of year Sat & Sun; ¥100). In spring, you’ll pass some beautiful cherry trees in bloom among the pines.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE HACHINOHE AND AROUND

By train Hachinohe is on the Tōhoku shinkansen, with regular trains south to Tokyo (2hr 45min) and north to Shin-Aomori (25min) and Shin-Hakodate Hokuto (1hr 30min). The Aomori Tetsudō line goes to Noheji (45min), for the Shimokita Hantō.

By bus The JR Oirase-go service runs to Towada Art Centre (2–4 daily; 40min) and Towada-ko (1hr).

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information The main tourist office is in the station (daily 9am–7pm; 017 827 4243, visithachinohe.com/en), and Hachinohe Portal Museum has an information desk. The Tanesashi Kaigan Information Centre is by the Natural Lawn (daily April–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4pm; 017 851 8500, tanesashi.info).

AC Promote The area’s best tour organization ( npo-acty.jp/tanesashi), with English-speaking guides. Activities include yoga and breakfast on Tanesashi Natural Lawn (¥1500), Michinoku hikes (¥1800), Mutsu-Minato morning market (¥4200), and an evening in the yokochō (from ¥6800).

ACCOMMODATION

There are several minshuku along the Tanesashi Kaigan, but the area is also easily accessible from the city.

Aomoriya 青森屋 46 Furumagiyama, Misawa 057 007 3022, noresoreaomoriya.jp/en. Set around a tranquil lake, this resort gives a great introduction to Tōhoku. The facilities and family-friendly activities – such as the impressive showcase of regional festivals, exceptional rotemburo (tattoos acceptable if covered), and relaxing lakeside Yawatauma Lounge (¥2000 extra) – have plenty of local flavour. Breakfast ¥1100; dinner around ¥5000. Free shuttle bus from Hachinohe (40min, reservation required) or Misawa (5min, no reservation needed). ¥22,600

Shinmutsu Ryokan 新むつ旅館 6-20-18 Konakano, Hachinohe 017 822 1736, hac.cside.com/shinmuturyokan. This remarkable building in the old red-light district near the port is full of original features and unusual items. It’s been in business for over 120 years, but only as a ryokan since the 1950s. Before that, it was a brothel; the wooden dildos displayed in the lounge area were talismans, believed to attract more customers. The mischievous owner has plenty of eyebrow-raising tales (only in Japanese, though she has some printouts in English). Breakfast ¥300, dinner ¥1700. ¥10,200

EATING AND DRINKING

Hachinohe’s specialities include seafood, garlic from nearby Takko, and nambu senbei, a wheat-based version of crispy senbei rice cakes. They’re best bought fresh from the 100-year-old Oyamada Senbei Shop (daily 6.30am–9pm) in Sannohe, where you can watch them being made by hand. For an evening meal, head to one of the city’s atmospheric yokochō.

Amber アンバーコーヒー 5-2-40 Konakano 080 9630 8520, ambercoffee.net. Welcoming coffee shop with a friendly, English-speaking owner. House-roasted aeropress coffees and indulgent desserts, from French toast to affogato, are around ¥500. Also serves simple lunches, like creamy cod roe pasta (¥990). Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 10.30am–6pm.

Ganko Oyaji がんこおやじ 1-1 Hon-chō, Minatomachi 017 833 3538, ganko-oyaji.info. This unpretentious izakaya near the port is a great place to try a few local specialities. You can get whole roasted bulbs of Takko garlic, fresh seafood, and local sake (tasting flight of 3 glasses ¥660). Look for the sign of a scowling, bespectacled chef over the door, the “stubborn old man” (ganko oyaji) of the name. Tues–Sun 5pm–1am.

Hasshoku Center 八食センター 22-2 Aza-Kamisai, Kawaragi 017 828 9311, 849net.com. Huge regional food centre, where you can buy fresh fish and grill it over hot coals right then and there. Pick up some roasted-tea ice cream for dessert, and a bottle of local sake for later. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–6.30pm.

Pot d’Etain ポ・デタン 2 Ban-chō 017 822 3383. Stylish, innovative French restaurant in the downtown area, combining local ingredients with traditional French techniques. Expect to spend around ¥3000 for lunch, ¥5000 for dinner. Good wine list. Last orders 1hr before closing. Mon–Sat 11.30am–2.30pm & 6–10.30pm.

Prince プリンス 18 Naga-yokochō 017 844 1827. Hidden in a yokochō, about a block from Hacchi, this green-walled cocktail bar is such a local favourite that you might find yourself sitting next to the mayor. To maximize space there are a couple of stools behind the bar, so don’t be alarmed if the smiley owners – usually sporting fabulously loud, nineties-style shirts – beckon you back there. Just go with it. Try one of the colourful original cocktails, which are all priced at ¥500; the Kabushima is particularly good. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Shimokita Hantō

The Shimokita Hantō peninsula protrudes into the ocean northeast of Aomori like a great axe-head. The jagged “blade” at its northern end is covered with low, forested peaks, of which the most notorious is Osore-zan, the “terrible mountain” where Buddhists believe the spirits of the dead linger on their way to paradise. Despite the mountain’s growing commercialization, Osore-zan’s bleak crater lake, surrounded by a sulphurous desert where pathetic statues huddle against the bitter winds, is a compelling, slightly spine-tingling place; an eerie wasteland where souls hover between life and death.

Osorezan-bodaiji

恐山菩提寺 • May–Oct daily 6am–6pm; festival July 20–24 • ¥500 • 017 522 3825, mutsucci.or.jp/kanko/kankotop.htm

The main focus of Osore-zan (恐山), an extinct volcano consisting of several peaks, lies about halfway up its eastern slopes, where the fearsome Osorezan-bodaiji temple sits on the shore of a silvery crater lake. Though the temple was founded in the ninth century, Osore-zan was already revered in ancient folk religion as a place where dead souls gather. It’s easy to see why – the desolate volcanic landscape, with its yellow- and red-stained soil, multicoloured pools and bubbling, malodorous streams, makes for an unearthly scene (there's so much sulphur in the air that you may want to avoid wearing jewellery, which can be tarnished by the steam-filled air). The temple also receives a steady trickle of non-spectral visitors, while during the summer festival in July, people arrive in force to contact their ancestors or the recently deceased through the mediation of itako, usually blind, elderly women who turn a profitable trade.

Roughly 110km along the curving coastline northeast of Aomori, Osorezan-bodaiji stands 14km west of the workaday town of Mutsu (むつ), on the southern edge of Shimokita Hantō. The winding road up from there climbs through pine forests, passing a succession of stone monuments and a spring where it’s customary to stop for a sip of purifying water. You eventually reach a large lake, beside which a humped red bridge (closed for restoration until 2021) represents the journey souls make between this world and the next; those who led an evil life are said to find it impossible to cross over. After a quick look round the temple, take any path leading over the hummock towards the lake’s barren foreshore. The little heaps of stones all around are said to be the work of children who died before their parents. They have to wait here, building stupas, which demons gleefully knock over during the night – most people add a pebble or two in passing. Small jizō statues, lovingly wrapped in towels and bibs, add an even more melancholy note to the scene. Many have offerings piled in front of them: bunches of flowers, furry toys – faded and rain-sodden by the end of summer – and plastic windmills whispering to each other in the wind.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHIMOKITA HANTŌ

By train from Aomori Nine daily trains on the private Aomori Tetsudō line from Aomori – for which JR passes are valid – take 45min to reach Noheji (野辺駅), from where another nine daily trains on the JR Ōminato line make the 45min run to two stations in the southern suburbs of Mutsu: Shimokita Station and Ōminato Station.

By train from Hachinohe If you’re heading to or from the south, travel via the Shinkansen station at Hachinohe, 85km southeast of Aomori and 100km northeast of Morioka. From there, the private Aomori Tetsudō line makes fifteen daily 45min trips to Noheji, connected as above with Shimokita and Ōminato stations.

By bus Buses run from Shimokita Station to Osore-zan (May–Oct, 3–5 daily; 45min; ¥800 each way), passing via the central Mutsu bus terminal en route, so you can go up the mountain straight off the JR train then get off in the centre of Mutsu on the way back down if you plan to stay the night. Alternatively, blue-and-white JR buses (for which rail passes are valid) run from Ōminato Station to Mutsu’s JR bus terminal, east of the town centre and confusingly called Tanabu Station (田名部駅).

Tourist information Mutsu’s tourist office (daily 9am–7pm; 017 534 9095) is in a small building by Shimokita Station and the bus terminal. Bikes are available to rent or free (daily 9.30am–5pm).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

There's one simple restaurant at Osorezan-bodaiji, and no shops, so it's wise to bring some snacks.

Kisshōkaku 吉祥閣 3-2 Tanabe Usorisan 017 522 3825. The temple at Osorezan offers lodging in a modern facility close to the entrance. Guests are expected to rise early for 6.30am prayers, which is followed at 7.30am by a huge Japanese breakfast (everything here is vegetarian, of course). Rates include two excellent shojin-ryōri meals, and access to the natural, sulphurous hot spring baths (daily 5am–10pm). ¥24,000

Murai Ryokan むら井旅館 9-30 Tanabe-chō, Mutsu 017 522 5581. Just in front of Masakari Plaza, this is one of the nicest places to stay in Mutsu. Although none of the tatami rooms is en suite, everything’s extremely clean, there’s a nice onsen and the food is great. Rates include two meals; room only is available for ¥4300 per person. ¥14,000

Masakari Plaza マサカリプラザ 2-46 Shimokita-chō, Mutsu 017 523 7111, ph-m.jp. Japanese restaurant up on the second floor of the somewhat faded Plaza hotel, serving a decent range of set meals from ¥1600, and noodle dishes for as little as ¥500. Daily noon–2pm & 5–11pm.

Hotel New Green ホテルニューグリーン 1-4 Honmachi, Mutsu 017 522 6121, mutsugreen.com. With a choice of Western- or Japanese-style rooms, this business hotel is reasonably priced and convenient for the station and restaurants. It’s a 5min walk west from the JR bus terminal; keep going past the private bus terminal and Matsukiya department store, then turn left at the T-junction. Breakfast around ¥1000 per person. ¥11,000

Shuyu Kaikyō Zen 酒遊海峡善 3-29 Tanabe-chō, Mutsu 017 522 7233. Welcoming little izakaya in the heart of Mutsu, tucked in an alleyway parallel to the river, and offering daily sashimi specials for ¥500, more substantial meat and fish dishes for around ¥2000, plus the pick of local sake. Mon–Sat 5pm–11.30pm.

Aomori

青森

Honshū’s northernmost city, AOMORI, sits at the inland end of Mutsu Bay, sheltered by the twin claws of the Tsugaru and Shimokita peninsulas. Long-serving as a port for travellers heading northwards, it was boosted in 2016 when the opening of the 46km Seikan Tunnel instigated a direct Shinkansen link under the sea to Hokkaidō.

The area around Aomori Station and the adjacent harbourside in particular have been extensively redeveloped to create a bright modern cityscape equipped with attractive waterfront promenades, busy cafés and a colourful museum. Aomori, though, also offers a glimpse of Japan’s remote past, in the shape of the extraordinary Sannai-Maruyama Site, southwest of the centre. To experience the city at its very best, aim to come during August’s raucous Nebuta Matsuri festival, when Aomori really comes to life.

Wa Rasse

ワ・ラッセ • 1-1-1 Yasukata • Daily: May–Aug 9am–7pm; Sept–April 9am–6pm, closed Aug 9 & 10 • ¥620 • 017 752 1311, www.nebuta.jp/warasse

A bizarre, angular and highly conspicuous edifice, cloaked in strips of red and black metal and just a minute’s walk from the station towards the harbourfront, was built to house Wa Rasse, a museum and cultural centre that celebrates the Nebuta Matsuri festival. Its darkened central hall displays five huge illuminated floats that took part in the most recent festival, each a dramatic explosion of colour bursting with menacing figures. There are regular screenings of the event, while live dance and drumming performances are staged three times daily at weekends and during holidays, when you can try on masks and play drums or other instruments.

Auga fish market

アウガ新鮮市場, Auga Shinsen Ichiba • 1-3-7 Shinmachi-dōri • Mon–Sat 5am–6.30pm (closed some Wed) • 017 718 0151, auga.aomori.jp/shinsen.html

A short walk from the station, at the west end of Aomori’s main shopping street, the old-fashioned Auga fish market occupies the basement of the multipurpose Auga building (opening hours vary in other sections). Most of the stalls here are piled high with iridescent fish, hairy crabs, scallops and squid, but a few display neat pyramids of Aomori’s other staple product: juicy, oversized apples. At the end nearest the street, the recommended Ringobako restaurant sells well-priced seafood meals long after the market itself is closed.

ASPAM

青森県観光物産館, Aomori-kan Kankō Bussan-kan • 1-1-40 Yasukata • Daily: building open 9am–10pm; Panorama Movie Theatre and Observation Platform April–Oct 9am–7pm, Nov–March 9am–6pm; shops and restaurants hours vary • Building free; Panorama Movie Theatre ¥600, Observation Platform ¥400, combination ticket ¥800 • 017 735 5311, aomori-kanko.or.jp

The futuristic fifteen-storey glass wedge on the waterfront, ten minutes’ walk west of the harbour and station and glowing a spectacular green after dark, is ASPAM. Designed as a showcase for regional tourism and industry, it’s actually a huge letter “A” (for Aomori). The ground floor holds assorted souvenir and craft shops, with lots of local seafood on sale, while the second floor is home to the Panorama Movie Theatre, which screens 360° films about the prefecture. Up on the thirteenth floor, the Observation Platform looks out across the city and the bay. While none of this really amounts to a must-see attraction, it’s worth dropping in to pick up tourist information or gifts.

Sannai-Maruyama Site

三内丸山遺跡, Sannai-Maruyama Iseki • 305 Aza-Maruyama • Daily: June–Sept 9am–6pm; Oct–May 9am–5pm • ¥410 • 017 766 8282, sannaimaruyama.pref.aomori.jp • Nebtan-Go shuttle from either Aomori Station (25min) or Shin-Aomori Station (15min), or local bus #6 from Aomori Station (¥330; 30min)

The Sannai-Maruyama Site, in a rural setting 5km southwest of Aomori Station or 3km south of Shin-Aomori Station, centres on one of Japan’s most remarkable ancient settlements. Between around 3500 BC and 2000 BC, an era known to archeologists as the Early and Middle Jōmon periods, these hillside meadows were occupied by a substantial village. Its inhabitants lived by fishing in the sea, and hunting with dogs, and buried their dead in large ceramic jars.

NEBUTA MATSURI

One of the biggest and rowdiest festivals in the entire country, the Nebuta Matsuri (Aug 2–7; www.nebuta.jp) takes its name from nebuta, meaning lanterns. These days, though, it’s not so much “lanterns” that are paraded through the night-time streets of Aomori as gigantic bamboo-framed paper sculptures, mounted on enormous floats and illuminated from within by electricity rather than candles. Taking the form of kabuki actors, samurai or sumo wrestlers in dramatic poses, they’re painted by well-known local artists, and their progress through the city is accompanied by much energetic dancing and enthusiastic disorder. According to local legend, the tradition originated in 800, when a band of rebels was lured out of hiding by an imaginative general who had his men construct an eye-catching lantern and play festive music.

Start your visit by wandering for half an hour or so through the actual village. As well as reconstructed pithouses – small, hobbit-like dwellings roofed with turf and/or thatch – you’ll see a rather extraordinary three-level structure supported on huge tree-trunk pillars. Only its timber skeleton has been rebuilt, as no one knows exactly what it looked like, let alone how it was used. Then return to the superb modern museum that adjoins the main entrance, which displays the pick of the artefacts that have been excavated here, ranging from pottery needles and spearheads to enigmatic ceramic effigies. Note that in winter, when the site is covered by snow, it’s harder to get a sense of the settlement itself – it still looks magnificent, though.

Aomori Museum of Art

青森県立美術館, Aomori Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 185 Chikano, Yasuta • Daily: June–Sept 9am–6pm; Oct–May 9.30am–5pm; closed 2nd and 4th Mon of each month • ¥510; temporary exhibitions extra • 017 783 3000, aomori-museum.jp • Nebtan-Go shuttle bus from either Aomori Station (20min) or Shin-Aomori Station (20min), or local bus #6 from Aomori Station (¥310; 25min)

A short walk from the Sannai-Maruyama Site (though slightly more circuitous by road), the stark, white, low-lying and labyrinthine Aomori Museum of Art seems an extension of the snowy landscape that surrounds it for much of the year. As well as hosting stimulating temporary exhibitions, it holds a fine permanent collection. The highlight is more than 120 works by the Hirosaki-born artist Nara Yoshimoto, famous for his depictions of grumpy, defiant girls and sculptures of white dogs, the largest of which, the colossal 8.5m-tall Aomori Ken, was commissioned for the museum, and stands dolefully outdoors. One gallery is devoted to three huge backdrops by Marc Chagall, painted in 1942 for a production of the ballet Aleko.

Aomori Prefectural Museum

青森県立郷土館, Aomori Kenritsu Kyōdo-kan • 2-8-14 Hon-chō • Tues–Sun: May–Oct 9am–6pm; Nov–April 9am–5pm • Jan & Feb ¥250, March–Dec ¥310; special exhibitions ¥400–500 • 017 777 1585, kyodokan.com • Nebtan-Go shuttle bus from either Aomori Station (20min) or Shin-Aomori Station (20min)

Housed in an imposing former downtown bank, 1.3km east of the station, the Aomori Prefectural Museum takes a look at the region’s history, culture and natural environment. As well as Jōmon-era earthenware pots and beautiful, insect-eyed dogū figurines of unknown ritualistic purpose, excavated near Tsugaru (50km west), it includes fascinating displays on local folk culture. Vine-woven baskets and rice-straw raincoats rub shoulders with fertility dolls and the distinctive agricultural deity Oshira-sama.

Munakata Shikō Memorial Museum

棟方志功記念館, Munakata Shikō Kinenkan • 2-1-2 Matsubara • Tues–Sun: April–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–March 9.30am–5pm • ¥500 • 017 777 4567, munakatashiko-museum.jp • Bus #3 from Aomori Station (15min; ¥190)

The small Munakata Shikō Memorial Museum, 3km southeast of the station, honours the Aomori-born woodblock artist Munakata Shikō (1903–75). Rotating exhibitions celebrate Shikō’s bold, almost abstract, scenes of local festivals and Aomori people. Though best known for his black-and-white prints, he also dabbled in oils, painted screens and calligraphy.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AOMORI

By plane Aomori Airport ( 017 773 2135, aomori-airport.co.jp), 13km south of the centre, has regular JR bus connections with Aomori Station (15 daily; 35min; ¥700).

Destinations Nagoya Komaki (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Osaka Itami (6 daily; 1hr 40min); Sapporo (5 daily; 50min); Tokyo Haneda (6 daily; 1hr 25min).

By train Aomori Station lies just west of the city centre, immediately inland from the Bay Bridge and Aomori passenger terminal. Trains on the Tōhoku Shinkansen line from Tokyo via Sendai, however, come no closer to the centre than Shin-Aomori Station, 5km west, where you need to change onto the JR Ōu line to reach Aomori Station (5min).

Destinations Akita (3 daily; 3hr 5min); Hirosaki (hourly; 30–45min); Morioka (hourly; 1hr 20min); Noheji (6 daily; 30–45min); Sendai (hourly; 2–3hr); Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto (every 1–2hr; 1hr); Tokyo (hourly; 3hr 30min–5hr).

By bus Long-distance buses ( konanbus.com) terminate by the train station. There are regular connections to Morioka, Sendai, Tokyo and (in summer) Towada-ko.

By ferry Tsugaru Kaikyo ( 017 766 4673, www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp) operates frequent ferries that carry cars and foot passengers to Hokkaidō (Hakodate; 8 daily; 3hr 40min) from Aomori Ferry terminal, 5km west of Aomori Station (20min by bus; ¥300).

Tourist information Aomori’s most useful tourist office is immediately outside the station, adjoining the JR Bus terminal (daily 8.30am–7pm; 017 723 4670, atca.info). You can also pick up regional information at ASPAM.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Central Aomori is small enough to explore on foot, but you’ll need local buses to reach the southern sights. The Nebtan-Go shuttle bus, which departs from both Aomori and Shin-Aomori stations, links all the main attractions, including Sannai-Maruyama, for ¥200 per trip or ¥500 all day.

By car Toyota ( 017 734 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp) and Nippon ( 017 722 2369, nipponrentacar.co.jp) have rental outlets near the station.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Be sure to book ahead, especially if you’re coming for Nebuta Matsuri (Aug 2–7), when prices can rise dramatically.

Art Hotel Color Aomori アートホテルカラー青森 2-5-6 Shinmachi-dōri 017 775 4311, arthotelcolor.com. Downtown budget hotel, with generously sized (if slightly bland) rooms; opt for an eighth-floor "colour room" if you can, which will have a bit more character. The buffet breakfast (¥1100) features several local dishes, and there's a relaxing common area where you're welcome to eat food bought elsewhere. ¥10,600

JAL City ホテルJALシティ 2-4-12 Yasukata 017 732 2580, aomori-jalcity.co.jp. The smart rooms at this popular business hotel, just south of ASPAM 600m east of the station, are well priced, and there’s a decent in-house restaurant. The seafood-heavy Japanese buffet breakfast costs ¥1600. ¥7000

Richmond Hotel リッチモンドホテル青森 1-6-6 Nagashima 017 732 7655, aomori.richmondhotel.jp. This modern high-rise hotel, at a major intersection 1.3km east of the station, is particularly convenient for those travelling by car. Rooms are comfortable and spacious, and a buffet breakfast costs ¥1300 extra. ¥8500

Sunroute Aomori ホテルサンルート 1-9-8 Shinmachi-dōri 017 775 2321, www.sunroute.jp. Well-priced business hotel, a 5min walk from the station, with large, en-suite Western-style rooms and a couple of decent Japanese restaurants. Breakfast costs ¥1540 extra. ¥7000

EATING MAP

Seafood, apples and apple products fill Aomori’s food halls and souvenir shops. Local specialities worth sampling include hotate kai-yaki, fresh scallops from Mutsu Bay grilled in their shells and served with a dash of miso sauce, and jappa-jiru, a cod stew that’s available in winter.

Coffee Colors コーヒーカラーズ 2-2-21 Hakko-dōri 017 777 0788, coffee-colors.com. Small, popular downtown coffee roasters, with a few in-house tables where customers can appreciate their espresso and drip coffees, as well as speciality teas. Daily 9.30am–6pm.

Hotategoya 帆立小屋 1-3-2 Yasukata 017 752 9454, aomori-den.jp/hotategoya. The gimmick at this simple seafood place, in the small arcade to the left of the station’s east exit, is that for ¥500 you can “fish” for scallops, using a rod and hook in an open aquarium, and eat whatever you catch within three minutes – they guarantee you at least two. Alternatively, you can get a plate of grilled fish for ¥680, assorted sashimi for ¥550, or barbecue prawns, mackerel or octopus at your table for around ¥600 per serving. Daily 11am–10pm.

Ippachizushi 一八寿し 1-10-11 Shinmachi-dōri 017 722 2639. Behind its simple white facade, this little back-alley restaurant serves some of Aomori’s best sushi and sashimi. There’s no English menu; just sit at the counter and point to whatever takes your fancy. Individual portions start at around ¥750, with sushi sets from ¥2200 and sashimi from ¥2500 in the evening. Mon–Sat 11.30am–9.45pm, Sun 11.30am–8.45pm.

Michinokuryōri Nishi-mura みちのく料理 西むら 10F ASPAM, 1-1-40 Yasukata 017 734 5353, michinokunishimura.com. For a real treat, head up to the tenth floor of the landmark waterfront ASPAM building, and sample the finest local cuisine, including hotate and jappa-jiru, at reasonable prices. Individual dishes from ¥360, set meals from ¥1340 for lunch, ¥2570 in the evening. Reserve ahead in summer. Daily: April–Oct 11am–3.30pm & 5–9pm; Nov–March 11am–3.30pm & 4.30–8pm.

Nandaimon 南大門 1-8-3 Shinmachi-dōri 017 777 2377, nandaimon.tv. Cheap and cheerful Chinese–Korean restaurant, a short walk from the station, that serves good-value yakiniku (Korean BBQ) and grilled hotate, with plenty of meat options. Lunch sets start at ¥880, with bibimbap at ¥980 and an all-you-can-eat meat blowout for ¥4980. English menus available. Daily 11am–11pm.

Ringobako りんご箱 B1 Auga Bldg, 1-3-7 Shinmachi-dōri 017 763 5155, auga-ringobako.com. Large, lively, canteen-like restaurant, attached to the market in the basement of the Auga building, and a great place to sample the local seafood. Find an empty chair at one of the wooden-crate tables, and order from an enticing picture menu that ranges through tempura fish with rice for ¥900, via mixed sushi for ¥1500 or a substantial sashimi bowl costs ¥1700, up to full set dinners for around ¥3000. The central stage hosts shamisen music performances, daily at 12.45pm & 7pm. Mon–Fri 10am–3pm & 4.30–11pm, Sat & Sun 10am–11pm.

UGUISU うぐいす 1-11-16 Shinmachi-dōri 017 764 0898, facebook.com/Uguisu.aomori A welcoming space decorated with warm wood, exposed concrete and low lighting, which morphs from café to restaurant to bar throughout the day. In the morning there's a Japanese breakfast buffet, then light bowls of ramen and other simple, healthy dishes at lunch, followed in the evening by inventive Japanese small plates, cocktails and an impressive range of sake (¥700–1200), for which you choose your favourite glass (made from the colourful local Tsugaru Vidro glassware). A table charge of ¥800 (including snack) applies after 6pm. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 7–10am & 11am–11pm.

SHOPPING MAP

Aomori is a great place to pick up souvenirs. As well as nebuta paper lanterns and seafood, look out for regional products ranging from kites and embroidery to lacquerware, brightly painted horses, and Tsugaru kokeshi dolls. ASPAM and the JR station both hold crafts shops, while the main shopping street, Shinmachi-dōri, offers good browsing.

A-Factory A-工場 1-4-2 Yanagigawa 017 752 1890, jre-abc.com. This bright, modern gallery, right by the station and all but underneath the huge suspension bridge, is the centrepiece of Aomori’s redeveloped harbourfront. As well as cider brewed on site, it sells all sorts of regional foodstuffs, and holds snack bars and cafés. Daily 9am–8pm.

Towada-ko and around

十和田湖

Japan’s third-deepest lake, the steep-sided, crystal-clear Towada-ko, fills a 300m-deep volcanic crater in the northern portion of the Towada-Hachimantai National Park. While the lake itself is of course a major tourist destination, for many visitors the true highlight is the approach over high passes and along deep wooded valleys. Of the four main access roads, the most attractive route is to head south from Aomori via the Hakkōda mountains, Sukayu Onsen and the picturesque Oirase valley. For this last stretch it’s the done thing to walk the final few kilometres alongside the tumbling Oirase-gawa, and then hop on a cruise boat across to the lake’s main tourist centre, Yasumiya. If you have time, Towada City is well worth adding to your itinerary for its vital, surprising art scene. Note that many roads around Towada-ko are closed in winter, and public buses only operate between April and November.

Hakkōda-san

八甲田さん • Ropeway Daily: March to mid-Nov 9am–4.20pm; mid-Nov to Feb 9am–3.40pm • ¥1250 one-way, ¥2000 round-trip • 017 738 0343, hakkoda-ropeway.jp

South of Aomori, Route 103 climbs steeply onto the Kayano plateau before reaching the flanks of Hakkōda-san. Every winter, up to 8m of snow falls on these mountains, transforming the fir trees into “snow monsters” (juhyō) and maintaining a flourishing ski industry. In summer, this beautiful spot offers excellent walking among Hakkōda-san’s old volcanic peaks, the tallest of which is Ōdake (1584m). To ease the climb, the Hakkōda Ropeway (cable-car) can whisk you to the top of nearby Tamoyachi-dake (1326m), from where you can walk down to Sukayu Onsen; both places are stops on the bus route from Aomori to Towada-ko.

Sukayu Onsen

酸ヶ湯温泉 • 50 Sukayuzawa • Daily: Sennin-buro 7am–5.30pm; Tama-no-yu 7am–5pm • ¥600 for one bath, ¥1000 for both • 017 738 6400, sukayu.jp • Take a bus from Aomori, direction Towada-ko

The most famous of the many onsen resorts in the Aomori region, Sukayu Onsen consists of just one single ryokan, which boasts a “thousand-person” cedar-wood bath, Sennin-buro. Heavy with sulphur, Sukayu’s healing waters have been popular since the late seventeenth century, and unusually it's not segregated by gender (though 8–9am is set aside for women only). There's also a second, less notable bath on site, Tama-no-yu.

ACCOMMODATION SUKAYU ONSEN

Sukayu Onsen Ryokan 酸ヶ湯温泉旅館 50 Sukayuzawa, Minami Arakawasan Kokuyurin 017 738 6400, sukayu.jp. The only ryokan in the resort, in business for over three hundred years, offers assorted traditional tatami rooms in the large building, the most expensive of which have private baths. The rates vary, depending on whether you choose a six-, eight or ten-mat room; those shown here include two meals, though you can also book a room without food, starting at ¥3500 per person. ¥17,600

The Oirase valley

奥入瀬渓流, Oirase Keiryū

South of Sukayu, the road crosses another pass and then descends through pretty deciduous woodlands – spectacular in autumn – to reach the village of YAKEYAMA (焼山). That’s the start of the Oirase valley walk, but you’d do better to join the path at ISHIGEDO (石ヶ戸), 5km further down the road. From there, it takes less than three hours to walk the 9km to Towada-ko, following a well-trodden path that heads gently upstream. Although the experience is slightly marred by the need to join the fairly busy main road for short stretches, for the most part you’re walking beside the Oirase-gawa as it tumbles among ferns and moss-covered rocks, through a narrow tree-filled valley punctuated by ice-white waterfalls. When you finally emerge at lakeside NENOKUCHI (子ノ口), you can either pick up a passing bus or take a scenic cruise across Towada-ko to Yasumiya.

ACCOMMODATION THE OIRASE VALLEY

Oirase Keiryū Hotel 奥入瀬渓流ホテル 231 Tochikubo, Okuse 050 3786 1144, www.oirase-keiryuu.jp/en. With comfortable rooms, two impressive fireplaces designed by Okamoto Tarō and glorious views of the Oirase-gawa (and from the onsen as well, which is surrounded by a frozen waterfall mid-Dec to March), this makes a perfect base for exploring the valley. Rates include breakfast, which you can enjoy on the terrace by the mountain stream. Book dinner at Sonore restaurant if you can, where the inventive multi-course meals, combining French cooking styles with local ingredients, are really something special. ¥26,000

Towada-ko

十和田湖

A massive crater lake, roughly 44km in circumference, Towada-ko lies trapped within a rim of pine-forested hills within the Towada-Hachimantai National Park. Famous for its spectacularly clear water, with visibility to a depth of 17m, the lake is best appreciated on a boat trip. The westerly of the two knobbly peninsulas that break its regular outline on the southern side shelters the only major settlement up here, YASUMIYA (休屋), which is itself also known somewhat confusingly as Towada-ko. Though this small town consists almost entirely of hotels and souvenir shops, its shady lakeside setting makes it a pleasant overnight stop.

The Maidens by the Lake

おとめの像, Otome no Zō

Once you’ve navigated the lake, the other thing everyone does in Towada-ko is pay a visit to the famous statue of the Maidens by the Lake, which stands on the shore fifteen minutes’ walk north of central Yasumiya. The two identical bronze women, roughcast and naked, appear to be circling each other with hands almost touching. Created in 1953 by the poet and sculptor Takamura Kōtarō, then 70 years old, they are said to represent his wife, a native of Tōhoku, who suffered from schizophrenia and died tragically young.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOWADA-KO

By train The closest rail station to the lake is 33km southwest. Towada-minami Station (十和田南), which is connected by bus with Yasumiya between April and mid-Nov only, is on the JR Hanawa line, with 7 daily services to Morioka (2hr 15min) and Ōdate (40min). Ōdate (大館) in turn is on the main JR line between Aomori and Akita.

By bus Public buses only travel to and from Towada-ko between mid-April and mid-November. Yasumiya’s town centre is dominated by two bus terminals, standing opposite each other just inland from the pier. The more northerly is for JR buses ( jrbustohoku.co.jp), and is used by services to Towada-minami, Towada City and Aomori; buses to Hirosaki and Hachimantai use the Towada-ko terminal, opposite ( tsugarunavi.jp). To get to Akita, catch a bus south to Towada-minami, then take a local train to Ōdate.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information The local tourist office is near the Yasumiya JR bus terminal (daily 9am–4.30pm, sometimes closed Wed; 017 675 1531, towada.travel/en).

Boat trips Sightseeing cruises ( toutetsu.co.jp/ship.html) operate on the lake from mid-April until the end of January, with the most interesting route being the circuit between Yasumiya and Nenokuchi (mid-April to early Nov; hourly; 50min; ¥1430). In winter, when there are far fewer sailings, boats tend to make shorter loop trips from Yasumiya (¥1230).

Bike rental You can rent bicycles (¥700/2hr) at Yasumiya and drop them off at Nenokuchi (or vice versa).

ACCOMMODATION

Kohan No Yado Minshuku Nagomi 湖畔の宿　民宿和み 37 Towada-ko Yasumitai, Kazuno-gun 017 675 2418, kohannoyado-nagomi.com. Simple but very well kept modern minshuku, across the road from the lake and a few minutes’ walk south of the centre, and offering a choice of Japanese- and Western-style rooms. The owner speaks English, and the rates include two good meals. ¥13,650

Laje Towada Oide Campground 十和田湖 生出 キャンプ場 486 Yasumiya 017 675 2368,. In summer, the patches of flat land around Towada-ko fill with tents; this is the closest campsite to Yasumiya, 3km southwest of town. A shop on site sells food and rents a range of camping equipment. Late April to early Nov. Two-person site ¥800

Syunzan-sō 春山荘 5-1 Towada-ko Hanyasumiya, Okuse 017 675 2607, syunzansou.com. Traditional inn in a charming old building, just a few minutes’ walk from the pier, with tatami rooms sharing a communal bathroom. Rates include two meals, room only costs ¥4550 per person. ¥13,520

Kirisuto No Haka

キリストの墓 • 33-1 Nozuki, Shingō • Museum Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥200 • 017 878 3741

Just outside the town of SHINGŌ, 30km east of Towada-ko along Route 454, Kirisuto No Haka – Christ’s Grave – is a mound of earth, topped by a wooden cross, which was erected in 1935 to commemorate an unusual local myth. The story goes that Jesus came to Japan as a 21-year-old and learned from a great master, before returning to Judea to spread the wonders of “sacred Japan”. Supposedly, these revolutionary teachings were what led Jesus to the cross, but in another twist it was Jesus’s brother Isukiri who was crucified, while Christ himself escaped to Shingō, where he married, had several children and lived until the age of 106. A small museum nearby displays a scripture corroborating the story, though it doesn’t give much detail about the nationalist historian, Banzan Toya, who “discovered” the tale in the 1930s – a time when Japan was funnelling substantial resources into demonstrating Japanese racial superiority.

Ōishigami Pyramids

大石神ピラミッド

The two Ōishigami Pyramids, 6km west of Kirisuto No Haka, were, like Christ’s Grave, identified during the 1930s by Banzan Toya. He claimed to have unearthed ancient writings that proved that the Japanese built pyramids tens of thousands of years before the Egyptians and Mexicans. To the untrained eye, neither pyramid amounts to anything more than a pile of boulders, but the top of the higher one makes a great picnic spot.

Towada City

十和田市

East of the lake, Towada City had an unusual response to depopulation and decline: modern art. The Arts Towada Project has turned this pleasant but unassuming city into an international destination, with one of the best contemporary galleries in Japan. It makes an easy and rewarding day-trip from Towada-ko and Hachinohe.

Towada Art Centre

十和田市現代美術館, Towada-shi Gendai Bijutsukan • 10-9 Nichiban-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Permanent exhibition ¥510; special exhibitions ¥800; combination ticket ¥1200 • 017 620 1127, towadaartcenter.com/en

Opened in 2008 and now the city's main draw, the Towada Art Centre houses an impressive collection of large-scale works in an airy white building. Most of the exhibits are interactive, with Yoko Ono's Wish Tree inviting visitors to tie their wishes onto an apple tree, and Kuribayashi Takashi's transportive Sumpf Land allowing you to poke your head into another world. There's excellent English signage throughout, and a relaxing café.

As though it can't be contained in the gallery, the art spills out onto the grounds and across the road – a huge flower-covered horse by Jeonghwa Choi; a marshmallowy house by Erwin Wurm; and several polka-dotted Yayoi Kusama works. There's even an unofficial second gallery at the Matsumoto Tea Stall (松本茶舗; 17-5 Inao-chō; daily 9.30am–7pm; 107 623 2138), opposite the sleek, modern community centre. The owner will enthusiastically show you the pieces dotted around the cramped shop, including an underground installation by Fuji Hiroshi showing Godzilla, made of bright plastic toys, advancing on the Japanese islands.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOWADA CITY

By bus The nearest train stations are Shichinohe-Towada and Hachinohe, from both of which the Towada Kanko Dentetsu bus goes into Towada City (every 1–2hr; 1hr & 40min respectively). The JR Oirase-go service runs from Hachinohe Station to Towada Art Centre (2–4 daily; 40min), and continues to Towada-ko (1hr).

Hirosaki

弘前

Behind its modern facade, HIROSAKI, former seat of the Tsugaru clan, still retains remnants of its feudal past. Its older and more interesting districts lie around 3km west of the station, across the Tsuchibuchi-gawa, which runs through the city centre. Resplendent at cherry-blossom time, Hirosaki-kōen holds the picturesque turrets of Hirosaki-jō, the town’s original castle. To the north is a neighbourhood of traditional samurai houses, while to the south you’ll find a well-preserved Japanese garden, Fujita Kinen Teien, and a collection of Meiji-era Western-style buildings.

Hirosaki’s summer lantern festival, the Neputa Matsuri (Aug 1–7), has its own museum, and there’s also a district of dignified Zen temples in the west of town. You can pretty much see all the sights in a day-trip from Aomori, but Hirosaki is a pleasant place to stay for a night or two.

Hirosaki-jō

弘前城 • Shimoshirogane-chō • Castle April to late Nov daily 9am–5pm; longer hours during festivals • ¥320, ¥520 with botanical garden and Fujita Memorial Garden • 017 233 8739, hirosakipark.jp/en

The large landscaped Hirosaki-kōen (弘前公園) is celebrated for its 2600 cherry trees, at their most spectacular between April and early May, when they form the centrepiece of the annual Sakura Festival. It holds the site of the Hirosaki-jō castle, which when originally completed by the Tsugaru lords in 1611 stood five storeys tall. After being razed by lightning a mere sixteen years later, however, it was not rebuilt until 1810, and then only in a much smaller three-storey form, on a different spot. The abbreviated version was rebuilt again after it and other surrounding structures were destroyed in the Meiji Restoration.

The park itself is a real pleasure to stroll though at any time of year, large enough that from whichever side you enter it takes around ten minutes to zigzag your way between its broad concentric moats, mighty walls and imposing wooden gateways. Having first admired the actual castle from a purpose-built viewing platform that neatly frames it with the imposing volcanic peak of Mount Iwaki on the western horizon, you can then enter the three-storey donjon, which has costumes for visitors to try on and a scale model of the castle in its heyday.

Hirosaki Castle Botanical Garden

弘前城植物園, Hirosaki-jō Shokubutsuen • 1-1 Hirosaki-kōen • April to late Nov daily 9am–5pm • ¥320, ¥520 with Hirosaki-jō and Fujita Memorial Garden • 017 233 8733

Just inside Hirosaki Castle Park, the Botanical Garden has 23 zones filled with a huge array of plants and garden styles. It's particularly lovely when the irises bloom in late June and, if nothing else, makes a great spot for a relaxing stroll and a picnic lunch.

Fujita Kinen Teien

藤田記念庭園 • 8-1 Kamishirogane-chō • Mid-April to mid-Nov Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; also open Mon during Sakura and Autumn festivals, and first 3 weeks of Aug • ¥320, ¥520 with Hirosaki-jō and Botanical Garden • 017 237 5525

A beautiful and unusually varied Japanese garden, across the main road at the southwest corner of the castle park, Fujita Kinen Teien was commissioned in 1919 by local entrepreneur Fujita Ken’ichi. It consists of three distinct sections, spreading down and across a steep hillside. At the highest point, closest to the park and alongside Fujita’s elegant residence – be sure to drop into the tearoom up here – dark pines frame the distant peak of Iwaki-san, in a definitive example of “borrowed scenery”. Paths head downward to a tumbling waterfall, from where a perfect red-lacquer bridge leads to another flat area of lawns and ponds at the bottom.

Neputa Mura

ねぷた村 • 61 Kamenokō-machi • Daily: 9am–5pm • ¥550 • 017 239 1511, neputamura.com

The Neputa Mura museum, devoted to Hirosaki’s lantern festival, the Neputa Matsuri, stands just outside the northeast corner of Hirosaki-kōen. Like the festival itself, the museum gets off to a rousing start with a demonstration of energetic drumming (which you can try yourself). Afterwards, you can admire the collection of impressive floats, giant lanterns painted with scenes from ancient Chinese scrolls and the faces of scowling samurai. Local crafts are also on display, and the shop is a good spot to pick up souvenirs like spinning tops, embroidered cotton or black-and-white Tsugaru pottery.

Chōshō-ji

長勝寺 • 23-8 Nishishige-mori • April–Oct daily 9am–4pm • 017 232 0813 • ¥310 • Bus #3 for Shigemori; get off at the Chōshō-ji Iriguchi stop

In the seventeenth century, around thirty temples were relocated to create a “temple town” district in Hirosaki. The most striking of these, Chōshō-ji, stands roughly 1.5km southwest of the castle, and is the family temple and burial place of the Tsugaru clan. Excavations in 1954 revealed the mummified body of Prince Tsugutomi, son and heir of the eleventh lord, whose death at the age of 17 in 1855 was variously blamed on assassination, poisoning or eating peaches with imported sugar. During the Sakura Festival, the mummy is on display; otherwise you’ll have to make do with a photo in the mortuary room behind the main altar, where it’s rather overshadowed by a life-like statue of Tsugaru Tamenobu, the founder of the clan.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HIROSAKI

By train Hirosaki Station, a 25min walk southeast of the castle area, is on the JR Ōu line, which runs southwest to Akita (3 daily; 2hr 5min) and northeast to both Aomori (hourly; 30–45min) and the nearest Shinkansen station, Shin-Aomori.

By bus Long-distance buses arrive at the terminal immediately west of the train station ( konanbus.com).

Destinations Morioka (hourly; 2hr 15min); Sendai (9 daily; 4hr 20min); Tokyo (daily; 9hr); Towada-ko (late April to late Oct 3 daily; 3hr 15min–4hr); Yokohama (daily; 9hr 15min).

Tourist information There’s a large tourist office in Hirosaki Station (daily 8.45am–6pm; 017 226 3600, hirosaki-kanko.or.jp), and another in the Hirosaki Municipal Tourist Centre, just south of the castle park (daily 9am–6pm; 017 237 5501), which also displays neputa floats and exhibits on local culture.

HIROSAKI FESTIVALS

SAKURA FESTIVAL (桜まつり)

Between April 23 and May 5, the little white turret of Hirosaki-jō, floodlit and framed in pink blossom, is the focus of the Sakura Festival, as Hirosaki-kōen’s two-thousand-odd trees signal the end of the harsh northern winter.

NEPUTA MATSURI (弘前ねぷたまつり)

The centrepiece of the Hirosaki Neputa festival, which lasts from August 1 to 7, is a parade of large, illuminated three-dimensional paper lanterns accompanied by energetic drumming and dancing through the streets. It’s similar in style to the Aomori Nebuta Matsuri, but here the lanterns are fan-shaped, and illustrate scenes from the heroic legends of Sangokushi (“Three Kingdom Saga”) and Suikoden (”Outlaws of the Marsh”), both originally from China.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Local buses that stop outside the station include the “¥100 loop bus”, which makes frequent circuits between the station and the Tourist Centre outside the castle park (April–Nov 10am–6pm, Dec–March till 5pm, daily every 10min; ¥100 per trip, ¥500 all day).

By bike Hirosaki being a little too large to explore comfortably on foot, bicycles are available to rent at the station, the Municipal Tourist Centre and a handful of other locations (mid-May to mid-Nov, daily 8.45am–4pm; regular bikes ¥500/day; e-bikes ¥1000/day).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Art Hotel Hirosaki アートホテル弘前 1-1-2 Ōmachi 017 237 0700, art-hirosaki-city.com. Large but stylish modern hotel, immediately to the left across the station forecourt and formerly known as the Naqua City, with small but comfortable business-style rooms and a buffet restaurant serving Japanese and international cuisines. Rates include breakfast. ¥10,000

Dormy Inn Hirosaki ドーミーイン弘前 71-1 Hon-chō 017 237 5489, www.hotespa.net/dormyinn/english. Crisp chain hotel, a couple of blocks southwest of the castle park, with good-value a/c rooms and a partially open-air rooftop onsen; every 30min, a free shuttle runs to and from the station. Rates include breakfast, and free noodles are offered nightly. Breakfast ¥1500. ¥10,800

Hirosaki Youth Hostel 弘前ユースホステル 11 Mori-machi 017 233 7066, bit.ly/hirosaki-hostel. An old but welcoming hostel, open May–Nov only, in a central location a couple of minutes’ walk south of the Fujita garden. Coming from the station, catch the loop bus to Daigaku Byōin-mae. Accommodation is in six-bed dorms, with breakfast available for ¥680, and dinner for ¥2000. Dorms ¥4250

KAI Tsugaru 界 津軽 36-1 Aza-Kamibotanmori, Owani 057 007 3011, kai-ryokan.jp/en/tsugaru. A luxury hot spring resort 15km out of Hirosaki (10min on JR Ōu line to Ōwani-Onsen, then free 7min shuttle), KAI Tsugaru is the perfect place to unwind. Local crafts like koginzashō embroidery (which you can try your hand at) have been thoughtfully incorporated into the design of this modern ryokan, and you can also see a performance of dramatic Tsugaru shamisen by a national champion. Staff are extremely friendly and helpful. Rates include two meals. Small, covered tattoos allowed in the onsen. ¥48,400

Kobori Ryokan 小掘旅館 89 Hon-chō 017 232 5111, kobori-ryokan.com. Run by two friendly women (and supervised by their cat), this old wooden ryokan near the castle offers a choice of smart tatami rooms as well as two Western-style rooms. There are en-suite rooms which cost ¥1100 extra. Breakfast ¥1100, dinner ¥2200 (for two). ¥9720

EATING MAP

Like Aomori, Hirosaki has a fine tradition of folk music, played on the Tsugaru shamisen, which has a thicker neck than the ordinary shamisen (a stringed instrument) and is struck harder. Look out for restaurants offering dinner concerts. Hirosaki is also famous for its apple pies – the tourist information centre has maps showing the best cafés and patisseries.

Robatayaki Kenta ろばた焼けん太 3 Okeya-machi 017 235 9514. This cheap and popular izakaya, a favourite downtown rendezvous for locals, specializes in grilled food such as yakitori; prices for individual dishes start at ¥600. It fills up quickly at the weekends – if you can’t get a seat here, try the branch around the corner. Mon–Fri 6–11.30pm, Sat 6pm–12.30am.

Taishō Romantic Tea Room 大正浪漫喫茶室 Fujita Kinen Teien, 8 Uehaka Banko 017 237 5690. This charming little Art Deco café, in the “Western House” of the Fujita garden but open even on days when the garden itself is closed, is like something you might find in an English country house. While most customers come for tea and cakes – ¥720 buys a “sweet set” with an apple pie or turnover or other pastry plus tea or coffee – the café also offers daily lunch specials, ranging from curry or pasta to salad, for ¥975. Daily 9am–5pm.

Takasago 高砂 1-2 Oyakata-machi. You may have to wait in line to enjoy lunch at this inexpensive soba restaurant, set in an attractive old wooden house in the lanes southeast of the castle grounds. The limited menu includes tempura soba, zaru soba and curry soba; expect to pay around ¥1000 for a full meal. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm.

Ushimaru ウシマル 10-1 Oaza Ekimae-chō 017 288 6070, ushimaru2015.com. Busy but very efficient Japanese diner, 200m along the modern pedestrianized mall directly ahead of the station. The speciality is charcoal-grilled meat and fish, with individual table-top braziers if you want to prepare your own food; single items cost under ¥500, while full meals for two start at ¥4000. They also prepare good-value lunch specials such as a ¥600 beef curry. Mon–Sat 5–11pm (last orders 10.30pm).

Akita and around

秋田

One of the few large cities on the northwest coast of Japan, AKITA was founded in the eighth century, but almost nothing of the old city remains. These days, thanks to its access to some of the country’s few domestic oil reserves, it’s an important port and industrial centre. The few central sites – three contrasting museums – can easily be covered on foot in half a day, but with its airport and Shinkansen services, Akita makes a convenient regional base.

Senshū-kōen

千秋公園 • 1-1 Senshū-kōen • 018 888 5753

The centre of modern Akita is bounded to the east by its smart train station, and to the north by the willow-lined moats of its former castle, Kubota-jō. This was Akita’s second castle, founded in 1604 by the Satake clan who, unusually for northerners, backed the emperor rather than the shogun during the Meiji Restoration. Despite their loyalty, the castle was abandoned by the late nineteenth century and the site is now a park, Senshū-kōen.

KANTŌ MATSURI

The city of Akita is home to one of the great Tōhoku summer festivals, the Kantō Matsuri (Aug 3–6; www.kantou.gr.jp) – though it’s a pleasantly low-key affair compared to events in Sendai and Aomori. During the festival, around two hundred teams of men and young boys parade through the streets, toting hefty kantō – bamboo poles. Each pole measures up to 12m long, weighs perhaps 60kg, and is strung with dozens of brightly coloured paper lanterns. Endlessly, rhythmically, exuberantly transferring the swaying, top-heavy structures from hip to head, hand or shoulder in time with the hypnotic music, participants compete to demonstrate their skills in managing to keep them upright throughout.

Akita Museum of Art

秋田県立美術館, Akita Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 1-4-2 Naka-dōri • Daily 10am–6pm • ¥310 • 018 853 8686, www.akita-museum-of-art.jp

A striking wedge-shaped building, facing Senshū-kōen from the south, the Akita Museum of Art was unveiled in 2013. It displays the collection of the Masakichi Hirano art foundation, and especially works by local artist Tsuguharu Foujita. The most memorable, Events in Akita, is a 20m-long canvas depicting Akita’s annual festivals that takes up an entire wall. It was completed in an incredible fifteen days in 1937, after which the wall of Foujita’s studio had to be knocked down to get it out.

Kantō Festival Centre

ねぶり流し館, Neburi-Nagashi-kan • 1-3-30 Omachi • Daily 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥110 (includes Old Kaneko Family Home), or ¥260 with Aka-renga Kyōdo-kan • 018 866 7091

The Kantō Festival Centre, across a small river west of Senshū-kōen, is devoted to informing visitors about local festivals in general, and in particular the Kantō Matsuri. Videos show the most recent celebrations, which take place during the first week of every August, in honour of the coming harvest. You’re encouraged to have a go with a kantō yourself. The attached Old Kaneko Family Home (旧金子家住宅, Kyū Kaneko-ke Jūtaku), a traditional wooden building with a mud-walled storehouse, is also worth a quick look.

Aka-renga Kyōdo-kan

赤れんが郷土館 • 3-3-21 Omachi • Daily 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥210, or ¥260 with Kantō Festival Centre & Old Kaneko Family Home • 018 864 6851

A red-and-white-brick Western-style building 500m south of the festival centre, formerly the headquarters of Akita Bank, is home to the Aka-renga Kyōdo-kan. The well-preserved banking hall and offices are worth a quick look, while the modern extension behind it houses a series of woodcuts by Katsuhira Tokushi, a self-taught local artist acclaimed for his bold, colourful depictions of rural life.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AKITA

By plane Akita’s airport ( 018 886 3366, www.akita-airport.com) is 20km southeast of the city. A limousine bus carries passengers to and from the train station (every 30min; 35min; ¥950).

Destinations Nagoya (2 daily; 1hr 30min); Osaka Itami (6 daily; 1hr 25min); Sapporo (4 daily; 1hr 5min); Tokyo Haneda (9 daily; 1hr 15min).

By train Akita’s JR station is on the east side of town.

Destinations Aomori (3 daily; 3hr 5min); Hirosaki (3 daily; 2hr 5min); Kakunodate (hourly; 45min); Morioka (hourly; 1hr 35min); Niigata (3 daily; 3hr 40min); Tokyo (hourly; 3hr 50min); Tsuruoka (4 daily; 1hr 50min).

By bus Long-distance buses, including for Sendai (3 daily; 5hr) and Tokyo (3 daily; 9–12hr), stop outside Akita Station.

By car Eki Rent-a-Car ( 018 833 9308, www.ekiren.co.jp), Nissan Rent-a-Car ( 018 824 4123, nissan-rentacar.com) and Toyota Rentals ( 018 833 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp) have offices near the JR station.

By ferry Shin-Nihonkai Ferry ( 018 880 2600, snf.jp) sails to Tomakomai, the main port on Hokkaidō (6 weekly; 11hr 20min), from Akita’s ferry terminal, 8km northwest of the station and served by connecting buses (30min; ¥410). The ferry also offers connections southwest along the Honshū coast, to Niigata (daily; 7hr 45min) and Tsuruga (daily; 21hr).

Tourist information Akita’s tourist office is at the JR station (daily: April–Oct 9am–7pm, Nov–March 9am–6pm; 018 832 7941, akita-yulala.jp). Ten free bicycles are lent to visitors each day, first-come, first-served.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Akita View 秋田ビューホテル 2-6-1 Naka-dōri 018 832 1111, viewhotels.co.jp/akita. Large business hotel in the heart of the shopping and nightlife district, a short walk west of the station. The rooms are slightly faded but comfortable, the restaurant serves both Chinese and French cuisine, and there’s a gym with sauna. Rates include a substantial buffet breakfast. ¥11,500

Dormy Inn Akita ドーミーイン秋田 2-3-1 Naka-dōri 018 835 6777, www.hotespa.net/dormyinn/english. This business hotel has contemporary monochrome interiors, spacious singles and a good range of facilities, including a nice public bath on the eleventh floor. Buffet breakfast ¥1500 extra. ¥7600

Metropolitan ホテルメトロポリタン 7-2-1 Naka-dōri 018 831 2222, akita.metropolitan.jp. Classy hotel, immediately outside the station, which belongs to JR East and therefore offers JR Pass holders discounts of around twenty percent. The rooms are tastefully decorated, and there’s a stylish cocktail bar and elegant Japanese restaurant that are worth checking out. Breakfast costs ¥1600. ¥10,530

Richmond Hotel Akita Ekimae リッチモンドホテル秋田駅前 2-2-26 Naka-dōri 018 884 0055, richmondhotel.jp. A straightforward 5min walk west of the station, this smart modern business hotel offers decent-sized rooms and good service. There is also a Japanese buffet breakfast, which will cost you ¥1300 extra. ¥9400

Youth-Pal Akita YH ユースパル秋田 3-1 Kamiyashiki 018 880 2303, youthpal-akita.la.coocan.jp. This large municipal hostel and conference centre, 5km west of the station, is a good bargain, with spacious Japanese- and Western-style rooms plus decent meals. To get here, take a bus to the Akita Seishōnen Center (bus stop #6; every 30min; ¥160), then walk west for 5min and it’s on the right. Breakfast costs an extra ¥760, and dinner from ¥1080. Dorms ¥3350, doubles ¥8640

EATING MAP

Akita’s main bar and restaurant area is one block southeast of the Aka-renga Kyōdo-kan, with the Kawabata area and the streets around Minami Ōdōri also worth a look. The most famous local speciality is kiritampo, a substantial stew of chicken, mushrooms, onions, glass noodles, seasonal vegetables and the key ingredient, mochi (rice cakes), made of pounded, newly harvested rice and shaped round a cedar-wood stick before grilling over a charcoal fire. Shottsuru – a strong-tasting stew made with a broth of fermented, salted fish – is more of an acquired taste.

Beer Cafe Aqula アックーウーラー 1-2-40 Omachi 018 864 0141, aqula.co.jp. Modelled on a German brauhaus, this modern bar in the Aqula building serves craft beers from its own microbrewery and hearty, largely meat-based food to accompany them, such as tongue, generous spare ribs and German sausage. Individual dishes start at ¥750. Daily 5–11pm, plus 11.30am–2pm Sun & public hols.

Mugendo 無限堂 2-4-12 Naka-dōri 018 825 0800, mugendo.jp. With its dark-wood interior and stained-glass lamps, this popular restaurant near the station is a great place to sample local specialities and traditional regional dishes. Look for the red curtain around the wooden entrance. Lunch dishes such as noodles start at ¥800; expect to pay around ¥3500 a head for dinner. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm & 5–10pm, Sat & Sun 11am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Nakakoji Coffee & Wine 仲小路コーヒー＆ワイン 2-1-48 Naka-dōri 018 853 0730, nakakoji-coffee.com. Small coffee shop which lowers the lights most evenings to become a laidback wine bar. There are simple sandwiches and cakes available (around ¥500), plus several different coffee blends and a good wine list. A lovely spot to while away an afternoon flicking through design books and magazines. Tues 11am–6pm, Wed–Sun 11am–10pm.

Sato Yosuke 佐藤洋介 2-6-1 Naka-dōri 018 834 1720, sato-yoske.co.jp/akitaten.htm. Very reasonable, very tasty udon and inaiwa restaurant in the basement of the Seibu department store, near the station, with set meals from ¥1240. The attached shop sells choice delicacies to take away. Daily 11am–9pm.

Kakunodate

角館

Up in the inland hills, 50km east of Akita and 60km west of Morioka, the glorious, fairly unspoiled little town of KAKUNODATE retains the air of a feudal outpost, complete with strictly delineated samurai and merchants’ quarters. It was laid out as a military settlement in 1620 by the lords of Akita, with a castle on a hill to the north, a samurai town of around eighty residences, and 350 merchants’ homes in a cramped district to the south.

THE FEARSOME NAMAHAGE

Not far from Akita is the Oga Hantō, a rugged peninsula of rice farms, fishing villages and cold northern seas. In the hardy communities here, everyone must pull their weight, and each winter, the namahage visit to keep them in line. Tall, with long hair, sharp teeth and grimacing red or blue faces, these creatures go from house to house around the village, growling "wariko wa inee ka?" – "are there any naughty children here?" At each house they're reassured of the diligence and politeness of the children and presented with something to eat and drink, then they offer the house a blessing, and out they go into the snow to terrorise the next family.

If you'd like to meet the namahage yourself, visit over New Year's Eve or for the Namahage Sedo festival in mid-February. You can learn more about them, and even dress up like one, at the Namahage Museum (daily 8.30am–5pm; ¥500; namahage.co.jp/namahagekan).

Kakunodate never grew to become a city, so its original layout has survived the years, still incorporating a cluster of spacious 200-year-old samurai mansions. You’ll find them, set behind neatly fenced gardens, lining the wide avenues of the samurai quarter. An even more attractive vestige of the past is the weeping cherry trees, brought here from Kyoto three centuries ago. Several hundred survive, most spectacularly in the 2km “tunnel” of trees along the raised eastern embankment of the Hinokinai-gawa.

All in all, Kakunodate is an enchanting place, well worth an overnight stay despite being easy to visit on a day-trip from Akita or Morioka.

Aoyagi-ke

青柳家 • 3 Omote-machi • Daily: April–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 018 754 3257, samuraiworld.com

If you’re at all constrained by time or budget, the samurai house to prioritize visiting is Aoyagi-ke. A large thatched structure towards the northern end of the quarter, readily identifiable thanks to its unusually grand entrance gate, it was built in 1890 and remained inhabited until 1985. The compound now contains an eclectic mix of galleries, displaying everything from samurai armour and agricultural implements to beautiful painted screens and memorabilia from the Sino-Japanese and Pacific wars. One building, designated the Akita Folk Art Museum, showcases local crafts, with demonstrations of techniques, and holds a wonderful array of vintage gramophones and cameras.

Denshōkan

伝承館 • 10-1 Omote-machi • Daily: April–Nov 9am–4.30pm; Dec–March 9am–4pm • ¥300, or ¥520 with Hirafuku Memorial Art Museum • 018 754 1700

Housed in an attractive red-brick building in the heart of the samurai district, the Denshōkan museum, also called the Heritage Centre, holds various Satake-clan treasures. It doubles as a training school for kaba-zaiku, the local craft in which boxes, tables and tea caddies are coated with a thin veneer of cherry bark. Developed in the late eighteenth century to supplement the income of impoverished samurai, kaba-zaiku is now Kakunodate’s trademark souvenir. You don’t have to pay for admission to access the museum’s large gift shop, well stocked with examples, or the little café on its second floor.

Hirafuku Memorial Art Museum

平福記念美術館, Hirafuku Kinen Bijutsukan • 4-4 Omote-machi • Daily: April–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4.30pm • ¥300, or ¥520 with Denshōkan • 018 754 3888

Behind its sterile concrete exterior, the Hirafuku Memorial Art Museum houses a small but decent collection of traditional Japanese art. Built in honour of father and son Hirafuku Suian and Hirafuku Hiyasui, the museum spotlights the work of Naotake Odano and other painters from Kakunodate.

Ishiguro-ke

石黒家 • 1 Omote-machi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400 • 018 755 1496

Dating back to 1809, the impressive Ishiguro-ke is one of Kakunodate’s oldest samurai houses. Part of the building is still occupied by a descendant of the Ishiguro family – the original occupant was financial adviser to the daimyō. After a brief guided tour of the main house, you’re left to admire exhibits including armour, weapons and old maps in the adjoining fireproof warehouse (kura), once used for storing rice, miso and other valuables.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KAKUNODATE

By train Kakunodate Station, on the southeastern edge of town, is a stop on the Shinkansen spur that connects Morioka with Akita, and is also linked by the scenic private Akita Nairiku Jūkan Railway to Takanosu, 100km north through the mountains.

Destinations Akita (hourly; 45min); Morioka (hourly; 45min); Takanosu (3 daily; 2hr).

Tourist information The main tourist office is in a kura-style building at the station (daily 9am–6pm; 018 754 2700, kakunodate-kanko.jp). They stock excellent English-language brochures, and will also look after your bags for ¥500/day, significantly cheaper than the station lockers.

ACCOMMODATION

Folkloro Kakunodate フォルクローロ角館 14 Nakasuga-zawa 018 753 2070, www.folkloro-kakunodate.com. Located right beside the station, this business hotel is your best bet for a simple, modern Western-style room. JR Pass holders get a ten percent discount, and rates include a buffet breakfast in the decent second-floor restaurant. ¥15,500

Machiyado Neko No Suzu 町宿 ねこの鈴 28 Shitachu-chō 018 742 8105, oogiri.co.jp/nekonosuzu. Most of the dozen guest rooms in this small central inn are Japanese-style, but there are also a few rather chintzy Western-style alternatives, as well as a spacious hot-spring bath. The breakfast spread costs ¥1400 per person. ¥13,500

Tamachi Bukeyashiki Hotel 田町武家屋敷ホテル 23 Tamachi Shimo-chō 018 752 1700, bukeyashiki.jp. Housed in a stunning Meiji-style building on the southern edge of the commercial district, 800m west of the station, this traditional inn provides attractive and luxurious tatami rooms as well as smart Western-style rooms with Art Deco touches. Rates include breakfast; the exquisite dinners cost from ¥5000 per person. ¥23,100

EATING AND DRINKING

Aoyagi-ke 青柳家 3 Omote-machi 018 755 5241, samuraiworld.com. Kakunodate’s most interesting samurai house holds two restaurants, including this noodle specialist in the gatehouse, where the inaniwa udon – long, slippery noodles in a thin soup of mushrooms, onion and bamboo shoots, costing ¥1100 – is especially recommended. Daily 9am–5pm.

Inaho 食堂いなほ 4-1 Tamachikami-chō 018 754 3311, inaho.pepper.jp. This elegant restaurant, where the road in from the station reaches the centre, serves set meals from ¥2000 in its upstairs dining room. Daily 11.30am–1.30pm & 5–9pm.

Kosendō 古泉洞 9 Higashi-Katsuraku-chō 018 753 2902. Set in an attractive former schoolhouse in the southerly half of the samurai quarter, this is a popular lunch spot. Speciality dishes include soba noodles served with bamboo, with prices starting at around ¥1000. Daily 10am–3.30pm.

Sakuramaru Coffee 櫻丸珈琲 24-1 Machiokachi-machi 018 749 7339. The open timber deck of this bright modern coffee shop, on the short road between the main riverside car park and the samurai quarter, makes an ideal place to take a break from sightseeing, over an espresso coffee or Japanese tea (both around ¥400). They also serve ¥400–500 pastries, cheesecake and the like, as well as cold beer. Daily 10am–5pm.

Nyūtō Onsen

乳頭温泉

As well as several ski resorts, the Towada Hachimantai National Park, northeast of Kakunodate, is home to a hot-spring area known as Nyūtō Onsen. Set roughly 15km beyond the magnificent Tazawa-ko, Japan's deepest lake, this comprises eight separate onsen along with their adjoining ryokan. The most famous and attractive of the bunch is the Tsurunoyu Onsen, a 350-year-old establishment with eight separate baths and three rotemburo (closed Mon), each fed by a different source (non-guests daily 10am–3pm; ¥600). A fifteen-minute walk east from Tsurunoyu, the (mixed-gender) rotemburo at Ganiba Onsen nestles quietly next to a small brook and forest – the perfect spot to shuck away the cares of travelling (non-guests daily 9am–5pm; ¥600).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NYŪTŌ ONSEN

By train The nearest train station for Nyūtō Onsen is Tazawako, 20km northeast of Kakunodate on the Shinkansen line between Morioka (hourly; 40min) and Akita (hourly; 1hr). From the station, catch a bus bound for the Tazawa Kōgen Ski-jō (every 70–90min; 50min) and get off at Tazawa Kōgen Onsen. With advance notice, both Tsurunoyu or Ganiba onsen will pick up guests from here.

ACCOMMODATION

Ganiba Onsen 蟹場温泉 Sendatsu 018 746 2021, nyuto-onsenkyo.com. In a peaceful setting surrounded by nature, this traditional ryokan offers a choice of spacious Western or well-kept tatami rooms. All look out onto the surrounding woods, while some adjoin the wraparound veranda. The big draw, though, is the wonderful outdoor bath set in natural rocks amid the forest. Rates include two meals. ¥19,750

Tsurunoyu Onsen 鶴の湯温泉 50 Sendatsu 018 746 2139, tsurunoyu.com. Although the ancient wooden building of this ryokan abounds in picturesque rustic charm, it has to be said that amenities are on the basic side. The cosy tatami rooms come with a small irori or fire pit, and there’s a choice of mixed- and single-sex onsen. Rates include two meals. ¥20,800

Yamanoyado Inn 山の宿 1-1 Sawayunotai 018 746 2100, tsurunoyu.com. Housed in a newer building, the slightly less traditional sister of Tsurunoyu has more spacious rooms with modern amenities. Rates include two meals. ¥36,600

Tsuruoka

鶴岡

The former castle town of TSURUOKA is mainly useful for visitors as a staging post on the pilgrimage to Dewa-sanzan. Its historic core, on the banks of the Uchi-gawa, consists of a handful of attractive willow-lined streets, and stands 2km south of the station, which as ever is surrounded by business hotels, department stores and bus terminals. The principal sights of interest are clustered in and around Tsuruoka-kōen, the park where the castle once stood, and include an eclectic local museum and an unusual Edo-period school for samurai.

Chidō Hakubutsukan

致道博物館 • 10-18 Kachū-Shin-machi • March–Nov daily 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥800 • 023 522 1199, chido.jp

Around half an hour’s walk southwest of the station, just beyond the southwest corner of Tsuruoka-kōen, the Chidō Hakubutsukan originally served as a retirement home for lords of the ruling Sakai clan. Various striking buildings stand within the compound, including the conspicuous Nishitagawa District Office, built in 1881 in Western style. The Goinden, the lords’ residence, was constructed only two decades earlier, but in a classic Japanese design, and now houses Sakai family heirlooms as well as a beautiful collection of bamboo fishing rods made by trainee samurai. Local folk culture is well represented in a massive thatched farmhouse and in a modern building packed with old fishing tackle, sake barrels, lacquerware and huge wooden mortars.

Chidō-kan

致道館 • 11-45 Baba-chō • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–4.30pm • Free • 023 523 4672

Tsuruoka’s Confucian school, Chidō-kan, immediately outside the southeast corner of Tsuruoka-kōen, was founded in 1805 by the ninth Sakai lord, who wanted to restore order among his restless clan and educate young samurai. Although it closed its doors in 1873, a few of the original buildings remain intact, including a shrine to Confucius, and the main auditorium, where you can see the old textbooks and printing blocks as well as some marvellous photos of the school when still in use.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TSURUOKA

By plane The only scheduled flights that use Shōnai Airport ( www.shonai-airport.co.jp), 12km northwest of Tsuruoka, fly to and from Tokyo Haneda (4 daily; 1hr 5min). Limousine buses to and from Tsuruoka train station connect with every flight (25min; ¥800).

By train Tsuruoka Station, with 4 daily trains to Akita (1hr 50min) and Niigata (1hr 45min), is 2km north of the town centre.

By bus Most buses stop in front of the train station; long-distance buses use the Shōkō Mall bus centre, a few minutes’ walk west, under the Tokyo Dai-ichi hotel.

Destinations Sendai (10 daily; 2hr 20min); Tokyo (2 daily; 8–9hr); Yamagata (9 daily, 1hr 50min).

Car rental Toyota Rent-a-Car, alongside the station at 8-01 Suehiro-machi ( 023 528 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp).

Tourist information Tsuruoka’s tourist office is outside the station (daily: March–Oct 9.30am–5.30pm, Nov–Feb 10am–5pm; 023 525 2111, www.tsuruokakanko.com).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Well-priced restaurants and fast-food outlets, serving staples such as soba, udon and izakaya dishes, are clustered around the station.

Narakan 奈良館 2-35 Hiyoshi-chō 023 522 1202, narakan.seesaa.net. Small, modern inn, equipped with good-value tatami rooms and serving traditional food. Go left from the station for 5min, then turn right at Hotel Alpha One, walk another 5min and it’s on the left after the traffic lights. Rates include two meals; various meal plans are available. ¥11,000

Shonai Sakaba Mitaba 荘内酒場 三鷹 12-30 Nishiki-machi 023 524 4572. Friendly Japanese restaurant just 250m from the station – turn right at the first intersection, and it’s on your left on the second block. The food, ranging from tempura mushrooms to sashimi and oysters, is uniformly delicious, and a full meal is likely to cost upwards of ¥2500. Mon–Sat 5pm–2am.

Tokyo Dai-ichi Hotel 東京第一ホテル 2-10 Nishiki-machi 023 524 7611, tdh-tsuruoka.co.jp. Large, modern and very yellow business hotel, in the heart of the shopping district 400m southwest of the station, offering sizeable, comfortable rooms plus a very impressive rooftop bath. Rates include two meals. ¥21,800

Tsuruoka Youth Hostel 鶴岡ユースホステル 1-1 Miyanomae, Sanze 050 1510 8243, bit.ly/tsuruoka-hostel. Well off the beaten track, up in the woods on a hillside in a seaside village 20km southwest of Tsuruoka, this splendid old hostel makes for a welcoming rest if you fancy a day off from your travels, and the idea of macrobiotic vegetarian food and 1950s jazz appeals. It’s a 15min walk from Sanze Station, three stops out of town on the JR Uetsu line. Dorms ¥3520

Dewa-sanzan

出羽三山

A lumpy extinct volcano with three separate peaks, Dewa-sanzan faces the Sea of Japan across the prolific rice fields of the Shōnai plain. Also known as Dewa-san, this is one of Japan’s most sacred mountains; pilgrims have been arriving to trek up its slopes for more than a thousand years, and today it's protected as one of the three areas in the Bandai-Asahi National Park. The arduous climb takes in ancient cedar woods, alpine meadows and three intriguing shrines, where yamabushi (mountain ascetics) continue to practise ancient rites that combine Tendai Buddhism with elements of Taoism and Shintō.

Though it’s possible to complete the circuit in one long day, it’s more enjoyable to spread it over two or three days, and spend a couple of nights in the shukubō (temple lodgings) scattered over the mountain. Potential stop-overs before or after you hike the trail include the village of Haguro-machi (羽黒町), the traditional start of the pilgrimage.

DEWA-SAN AND THE YAMABUSHI

Although these days Dewa-san and its three shrines fall under the banner of Shintō, the mountain was originally home to one of the colourful offshoots of Esoteric Buddhism, later unified as Shugendō. The worship of Dewa-san dates from the seventh century, when an imperial prince fled to this area following the death of his father. In a vision, a three-legged crow led him to Haguro-san (Black Wing Mountain), where he lived to the ripe old age of 90, developing his unique blend of Shintō, Buddhism and ancient folk religion. Later, the yamabushi, the sect’s itinerant mountain priests – literally, “the ones who sleep in the mountains” – became famous for their mystic powers and extreme asceticism. One route to enlightenment consisted of living in caves off a diet of nuts and wild garlic. Once fairly widespread, the sect dwindled after the mid-nineteenth century, when Shintō reclaimed Japan’s mountains for its own. Nevertheless, you’ll still find a flourishing community of yamabushi around Dewa-san, kitted out in natty checked jackets, white knickerbockers and tiny black pillbox hats. Each also carries a huge conch-shell horn, the haunting cry of which summons the gods.

The best time to see yamabushi in action is during the area’s various festivals. During the biggest annual bash, the Hassaku Matsuri (Aug 24–31), pilgrims take part in a fire festival on Haguro-san to ensure a bountiful harvest. At New Year, Haguro-san is also the venue for a festival of purification, known as the Shōreisai, which combines fire and acrobatic dancing with ascetic rituals.

If you’d like to try your hand at being a yamabushi, several two- and three-day taster courses are available, in which participants get to stand under waterfalls, leap over fires and take part in a pilgrimage. Prices usually start around ¥25,000; contact Tsuruoka’s tourist office for information.

The Dewa-san circuit

Precisely how you tackle Dewa-san will depend on when you visit and how much walking you want to do. Ideally, the aim is to pay your respects at all three shrines, each set on its own peak. That’s only possible in midsummer, however, as only the thatch-roofed Gōsaiden shrine, at the summit of Haguro-san, remains open all year; Gassan-jinja on Gassan is open from July to mid-September, while Yudonosan-jinja on Yudono-san is open from May to early November. Just to complicate matters, the path itself stays open longer.

The traditionally recommended route, starting from Haguro-machi, is to climb Haguro-san on the first day, and then continue via Gassan to Yudono-jinja on the second. Once there, you can either head straight to Tsuruoka or spend the night in a shukubō and visit the temples in tiny Ōami, home to so-called “living Buddhas”, the next day.

Ideha Bunka Kinenkan

いでは文化記念館 • 72 Injuminami, Haguro-machi • Mon & Wed–Sun (daily July & Aug): April–Nov 9am–4.30pm; Dec–March 9.30am–4pm • ¥400 • 023 562 4727 • Buses from Tsuruoka (8–15 daily; 40min) serve Haguro-machi – get off at the Haguro Centre stop

The village of HAGURO-MACHI (羽黒町) is set at the foot of the Dewa-san hike. Before heading off, anyone interested in the yamabushi should take a look at the Ideha Bunka Kinenkan museum, where remarkably high-tech exhibitions contain examples of yamabushi clothes and foodstuffs, as well as holograms of various rituals.

The Haguro-san route

羽黒山ルート

Starting from a weather-beaten, red-lacquered gate in Haguro-machi, the trail up the 414m peak of Haguro-san (羽黒山) incorporates the 2446 well-worn steps of three long staircases that were constructed by a monk in the early seventeenth century. The climb is only 1.7km long, but takes most visitors around an hour to complete. It begins with a deceptively gentle amble beside a river among stately cedar trees, where pilgrims purify themselves. After passing a magnificent five-storey pagoda, last rebuilt in the fourteenth century, it’s uphill all the way, past a little teashop (late April to early Nov daily 8.30am–5pm) that affords superb views, until a large red torii indicates you’ve made it.

Gōsaiden shrine

三神合祭殿, San-jin Gōsaiden • Museum: mid-April to late Nov daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥300 • Buses from the Haguro-sanchō bus stop connect the shrine with Tsuruoka (50min) via Haguro-machi (15min), and also with Gassan Hachigōme

The Gōsaiden shrine compound, at the top of the Haguro-san trail, holds several unmistakably Buddhist buildings. In the Gōsaiden itself, the monumental vermilion hall at the centre, the mountain’s three deities are enshrined behind gilded doors, and beneath an immaculate thatch. Immediately in front, the lily-covered Kagami-ike is said to mirror the spirits of the gods, but is better known for its treasure hoard of over five hundred antique polished-metal hand mirrors. In the days before women were allowed onto Dewa-san, their male relatives would consign one of their mirrors into the pond. The finest such mirrors are now proudly displayed in the shrine museum, which also holds a useful relief map of Dewa-san.

Gassan

月山 • Buses to Gassan only run daily in July & Sept, from both Tsuruoka via Haguro-machi (1hr 20min), and from Haguro-san (4 daily; 55min)

Beyond Haguro-san, the trail follows a high ridge all the way to Dewa-san’s middle shrine, perched atop Gassan (月山; 1984m), the highest peak in the range. It’s a long 20km walk, though, so given the choice all but the most dedicated hikers might prefer to catch a bus as far as the “Eighth Station”, Gassan Hachigōme. Even from there it takes over two hours to cover the final 5km to Gassan (1900m), on a beautiful section of the ridgetop path that crosses the marshy Mida-ga-hara meadows, renowned for the explosion of rare alpine plants in late June.

Gassan-jinja

月山神社 • July to mid-Sept daily 6am–5pm • ¥500

The final few metres of the ridge walk to Gassan consist of a scramble to reach the rocky peak, where the Gassan-jinja shrine huddles behind stout stone walls. The view, in clear weather at least, is magnificent, but the shrine itself is the least interesting of Dewa-san’s trio. Nonetheless, you have to be purified before venturing inside. Bow your head while a priest waves his paper wand over you and chants a quick prayer; then rub the paper cut-out person (which he gives you) over your head and shoulders before placing it in the water.

Yudonosan-jinja

湯殿山神社 • May to early Nov daily 8am–5pm • ¥500 • A shuttle bus runs from the torii in Yudono-san to Yudono-jinja (5min; ¥100), or it’s a steep 20min walk; between May and early Nov there’s a bus from Tsuruoka (3 daily; 1hr 20min)

On the far side of Gassan, the trail drops steeply for 9km, to reach the final shrine, Yudonosan-jinja (湯殿山神社), an ochre-coloured rock washed by a hot spring in a narrow valley on the mountain’s west flank. During the final descent, you have to negotiate a series of iron ladders strapped to the valley side where the path has been washed away. Once at the river, it’s only a short walk to the inner sanctum of Dewa-san, which occupies another walled area. Inside, take off your shoes and socks before receiving another purification, and then enter the second compound. Having bowed to the steaming orange boulder, you can then haul yourself over it using ropes to reach another little shrine on the far side. A ten-minute trot down the road from there will bring you to the Yudono-san (湯殿山) bus stop.

Ōami

大網 • All buses from Yudono-san to Tsuruoka stop at Ōami (every 2hr; 30min)

The hamlet of ŌAMI, 20km northwest of Yudonosan-jinja on the road to Tsuruoka, is worth a stop for its two “living Buddhas”, the naturally mummified bodies of ascetic Buddhist monks who starved themselves to death. You’ll find the mummies, or miira, on display in two rival temples, Dainichibō and Chūren-ji, on either side of the village.

Dainichibō

大日坊 • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥500 • 023 554 6301, dainichibou.or.jp • From Ōami bus stop, follow red signs of a bowing monk, then turn left at the post office and walk for 10min

Dainichibō, the more accessible of Ōami’s two temples, is on the east side of the village, and is thought to have been founded in 807 by Kōbō Daishi. After a brief purification ceremony and introductory talk, the head priest shows you the hard-working saint’s staff, a handprint of Tokugawa Ieyasu, and other temple treasures, before taking you to the mummy. The tiny figure sits slumped on an altar, dressed in rich red brocades from which his hands and skull protrude, sheathed in a dark, glossy, parchment-thin layer of skin. He’s said to have died in 1782 at the age of 96, having lived merely on a diet of nuts, seeds and water. As the end drew closer, the monk took himself off to a cave to meditate and eventually stopped eating altogether. Finally, he was buried alive with a breathing straw until he expired completely. This process of self-mummification as a path to enlightenment, known as sokushinbutsu, was relatively common prior to the nineteenth century, when the practice was banned.

Chūren-ji

注連寺 • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥500 • 2km from Ōami bus stop; head north on a country road and follow the signs until you reach a fork, at which you turn left and walk past a graveyard

Though it’s a bit of a walk from Ōami, Chūren-ji is slightly less commercialized and more atmospheric than Dainichibō. As usual, visitors receive a short talk and a purification ceremony before entering the side hall, where the miira rests in a glass case.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION DEWA-SANZAN

By bus Two bus services connect Tsuruoka with Dewa-Sanzan. One runs around ten times daily via the Zuishin-mon stop (瑞信門) in Haguro-machi to the Haguro-sanchō stop at the top of Haguro-san, with onward services continuing to Gassan Hachigōme between July and Sept. The second runs four times daily, from late April to early Nov only, between Tsuruoka and Yudonosan-jinja. For current schedules, visit bit.ly/dewa-sanzan.

Tourist information Maps and bus timetables are available at Tsuruoka’s information centre, while online resources include hagurokanko.jp and dewasanzan.jp.

ACCOMMODATION

If possible, try to spend at least one night while visiting Dewa-sanzan at a shukubō (temple lodging). There are over thirty in Haguro-machi’s Tōge district, including several traditional thatch-roofed inns, each run by a yamabushi.

Saikan 斎館 Haguro-san 023 562 2357, bit.ly/saikan. This impressive old shukubō, up on the mountain at the end of a mossy path that leads left from the top of the Haguro-san route, just before you duck under the torii, enjoys fabulous views over the Shōnai plain. As well as simple accommodation, they also offer excellent vegetarian lunches, available to non-residents as well (from ¥2160; reservations recommended). Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥17,280

Sankō-in 羽黒山三光院 92 Tōge, Haguro-machi 023 562 2302. A lovely old thatched place near the centre of Haguro-machi, this authentic temple lodging serves vegetarian cuisine. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥17,600

Tamon-Kan 多聞館 115 Tōge, Haguro-machi 023 562 2201, www.tamonkan.net. This attractive traditional ryokan, in an impressive 300-year-old building in the heart of Haguro-machi, stays open all year round, offers more comfortable accommodation than the various shukubō, and serves excellent shōjin-ryōri cuisine. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥17,280

Yudono-san Sanrōjo 湯殿山参籠所 7 Rokujuri-yama, Tamugimata 023 554 6131, yudonosan-stay.com. This summer-only mountain inn (open April–Nov) occupies a wonderful setting beside the Yudonosan-jinja bus terminal. As well as attractive rooms and a great onsen, it offers delicious lunches to both residents and non-residents (from ¥1575; reservations recommended). Another plus is that rates include breakfast and dinner. They also offer yamabushi training for ¥11,000–23,000 (plus ¥1300–5300 for clothing, which you get to keep afterwards). ¥17,580

< Back to Northern Honshū

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NISEKO

Hokkaidō

Sapporo

Otaru and around

Niseko

Hakodate

Ōnuma Quasi National Park

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park

Asahikawa

Daisetsu-zan National Park

Furano and around

Wakkanai

Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park

Eastern Hokkaidō

Hokkaidō

An unspoiled frontier, an escape from industrialized Japan and a chance to connect with nature – although this vision of Hokkaidō is rose-tinted, Japan’s main northern island certainly has an untamed and remote quality. Over 70 percent of it is covered by forest, and wildlife is ubiquitous, both in and out of the enormous national parks, where you’ll also find snow-covered slopes, active volcanoes and bubbling onsen. This is Japan’s second-largest island, with 22 percent of the nation’s landmass, yet a mere five percent of the population lives here. Even so, cities such as the stylish capital Sapporo and historically important Hakodate are just as sophisticated and packed with facilities as their southern cousins. With easy access to the island by Shinkansen, there’s little excuse not to explore this nature lover’s haven.

Only colonized by the Japanese in the last 150 years, Hokkaidō is devoid of ancient temples, shrines and monuments over 200 years old. What it does have is a fascinating cultural history, defined by its dwindling Ainu population. Between spring and autumn is the ideal time to explore the island’s six major national parks and countryside – outside of this time, expect a lot of snow. Apart from the listed highlights other attractions include Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, which has two beautiful lakes and a volcano that only started sprouting in 1943, and the countryside around Furano, which bursts into colour with fields of lavender and other flowers. Come winter, Hokkaidō takes on a special quality; you can ski at some of Japan’s best ski resorts or view many snow and ice festivals, of which Sapporo’s giant Yuki Matsuri is the most famous.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE HOKKAIDŌ

By plane Hokkaidō’s main gateway is New Chitose Airport, 40km south of Sapporo, where you can pick up connecting flights to other places on the island, including Hakodate. Several low-cost carriers, including Peach and Vanilla Air, operate to New Chitose and around Hokkaidō.

By train Sapporo is accessible by Shinkansen, with direct trains running from Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station (10 round-trips daily; 4hr; reserved seats only).

By ferry There are overnight ferry services from Honshū. MOL Ferry Co ( sunflower.co.jp) offers a service from Tokyo to Sapporo via the ports of Oarai (for Tokyo) and Tomakomai (for Sapporo), from ¥8740; local buses enable city transfer at either end. Shin Nihonkai Ferry ( snf.jp) runs services from Otaru to Niigata and Maizuru, north of Kyoto. They also run overnight services from Tomakomai to Akita, Niigata and Tsuruga in Fukui-ken. For journey times and frequencies see Sapporo “Getting around”.

GETTING AROUND

By train The Hokkaidō Rail Pass ( www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global), costing ¥16,500 for a three-day ticket, ¥22,000 for five days and ¥24,000 for seven days, is well worth considering.

By car To reach more remote corners of the island, renting a car is best. Useful websites for general and driving information include en.visit-hokkaido.jp and northern-road.jp/navi/eng.

By bike Cycling is very popular on Hokkaidō (see individual accounts for rental info).

Hitching Due to the limited train services around Hokkaidō, hitchhiking is fairly widespread.

Sapporo

札幌

With a population of nearly two million, Hokkaidō’s vibrant capital SAPPORO is the fifth-largest city in Japan, and as it’s the transport hub of the island you’re almost bound to pass through here. It’s worth lingering, as Sapporo is generously endowed with parks and gardens. The mountains that attract skiers and snowboarders rise up to its south, and the dramatic coastline around the Shakotan Peninsula is less than thirty minutes away.

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MARKET STALL IN HAKODATE

Highlights

Sapporo Hokkaidō’s fun capital city is home to Japan’s largest Snow Festival, a park designed by artist and landscape architect Noguchi Isamu and the eponymous freshly brewed beer.

Niseko Superb powder snow, great scenery, and chic accommodation and dining blend together to make Japan’s best ski resort.

Hakodate Travel by rickety old trams around this historic port, stroll the gentrified harbourside district and taste the city’s deservedly famous seafood.

Noboribetsu Onsen Explore the steaming, sulphurous volcanic landscape, then enjoy a traditional ryokan experience complete with relaxing onsen.

Daisetsu-zan National Park Home to Asahi-dake, Hokkaidō’s highest mountain, plus the spectacular Sōunkyō Gorge and a choice of onsen.

Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō Off the beaten path, these beautiful northern islands, sprinkled with wild flowers, are perfect for enjoying the outdoors, with the likes of hiking and cycling on offer.

Shiretoko National Park Nature is in all her glory at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, which offers challenging treks and abundant wildlife – including bears.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

THE AINU

…they are uncivilizable and altogether irreclaimable savages, yet they are attractive … I hope I shall never forget the music of their low sweet voices, the soft light of their mild, brown eyes and the wonderful sweetness of their smile. Isabella Bird, Unbeaten Tracks in Japan, 1880

Victorian traveller Isabella Bird had some misconceived notions about the Ainu, but anyone who has ever listened to their hauntingly beautiful music will agree that they are a people not easily forgotten. The roots of the Ainu, who live in Hokkaidō, the Kuril Islands, Sakhalin and northern Honshū, are uncertain – some believe they come from Siberia or Central Asia, moving to their current territories in the seventh century. The early Ainu were hairy, wide-eyed and lived a hunter-gatherer existence, but their culture – revolving around powerful animist beliefs – was sophisticated, as shown by their unique clothing and epic songs and stories in a language quite unlike Japanese.

Up until the Meiji Restoration, Japanese contact with the Ainu in Hokkaidō, then called Ezochi, was limited to trade, and the people were largely left alone in the north of the island. However, when the Japanese sought to colonize Hokkaidō fully, the impact on the Ainu was disastrous. Their culture was suppressed, they were kicked off ancestral lands, saw forests cleared where they had hunted and suffered epidemics of diseases from which they had no natural immunity. Their way of life went into seemingly terminal decline and assimilation seemed inevitable after a law of 1899 labelled the Ainu as former aborigines, obliging them to take on Japanese citizenship.

Over a century later, against all odds, fragments of Ainu culture and society remain. The Ainu population is estimated to be around 12,300, though the real number remains unknown as many are thought to have hidden their cultural roots. A tiny piece of political power was gained when Kayano Shigeru (1926–2006), an Ainu, was elected to the House of Councillors – the second house of Japan’s parliament – in 1994. A landmark legal verdict in 1997 recognized Ainu rights over the land and led to the New Ainu Law of 1997, which aimed to protect what was left of Ainu culture and ensure it is passed on to generations to come. And in 2008, Japan’s Diet also passed a resolution recognizing Ainu, for the first time in 140 years, as “an indigenous people with a distinct language, religion and culture”. Generally, there is now genuine interest in and sensitivity towards this ethnic group among the Japanese who visit tourist villages such as Akan Kohan , though the best place to get an accurate idea of how Ainu live today is at Nibutani . Also worth seeking out, for a broader understanding of the Ainu and their relationship to similar ethnic groups, are the museums of Northern Peoples in Hakodate and Abashiri.

Sapporo is also synonymous with its beer, which has been brewed here since 1891; a visit to the handsome, late nineteenth-century Sapporo Beer Museum and Beer Garden is a must, as is a stroll through the grounds and museums of the Hokkaidō University Botanical Gardens, which date from the same era. Seeing central Sapporo’s main sights will fill a day; after dark, the bars and restaurants of Susukino spark to life, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a livelier nightlife district outside of Tokyo or Osaka.

Head out of the city centre to see the Historical Village of Hokkaidō, a huge landscaped park featuring more than sixty restored buildings from the island’s frontier days. Moerenuma, a park designed by the late Japanese-American sculptor Noguchi Isamu, also makes for a pleasant half-day trip, as do the entertaining Sapporo Winter Sports Museum and the interactive pleasures of Shiroi Koibito Park.

Pleasantly cool temperatures tempt many visitors to Sapporo’s Summer Festival (late July to late Aug), which features outdoor beer gardens and other events in Ōdōri-kōen, the swathe of parkland that cuts through the city centre. This park is also the focus of activity during the fabulous Yuki Matsuri, a snow festival held every February.

THE YUKI MATSURI AND OTHER SNOW FESTIVALS

Sapporo’s famous snow festival, the Yuki Matsuri ( snowfes.com/english), has its origins in the winter of 1950, when six small snow statues were created by high-school children in Ōdōri-kōen, the city’s main park. The idea caught on, and by 1955 the Self Defence Force (the Japanese military) was pitching in to help build gigantic snow sculptures, which included intricately detailed copies of world landmarks such as the Taj Mahal.

Running from early to mid-February and spread across three sites (Ōdōri-kōen, Susukino and Sapporo Tsudome), the festival now includes an international snow sculpture competition and many other events, such as snowboard jumping and nightly music performances in the park. Arrive one week in advance and you’ll be able to see the statues being made, as well as take part in the construction, since at least one giant statue in Ōdōri-kōen is a community effort – all you need do is turn up and offer your services. Book transport and accommodation well ahead of time: with two million visitors flooding into Sapporo during the matsuri, finding last-minute options for both can be a challenge.

If you don’t make it to Sapporo’s snow festival, note that there are several other similar events around Hokkaidō that take place in January and February, including at Abashiri, Obihiro, Asahikawa , Otaru, Shikotsu-ko and Sōunkyō.

Brief history

Sapporo’s name comes from the Ainu word for the area, Sari-poro-betsu, meaning “a river which runs along a plain filled with reeds”. The city’s easy-to-follow grid-plan layout was designed in the 1870s by a team of European and American experts engaged by the government to advise on Hokkaidō’s development. Statues of these advisers can be found around Sapporo; the most famous (overlooking the city from atop Hitsujigaoka hill in the south) is the one of the American Dr William S. Clark, who set up Hokkaidō University and whose invocation to his students – “Boys, be ambitious!” – has been adopted as the city’s motto.

Hokkaidō University Botanical Gardens

北海道大学植物園, Hokkaidō Daigaku Shokubutsu-en • Kita 3, Nishi 8 • Gardens and museums Tues–Sun: April–Sept 9am–4.30pm; Oct & Nov 9am–4pm • ¥420 • Greenhouse Nov–April Mon–Fri 10am–3.30pm, Sat 10am–12.30pm • ¥120 • 011-221-0066, hokudai.ac.jp/fsc/bg/index_e.html

The compact and pretty Hokkaidō University Botanical Gardens are the oldest in Japan. The gardens feature a long pond, a greenhouse, a rockery, shaded forest walks and neat flower gardens, including a collection which shows the plants and flowers used by the Ainu in their daily lives. In the university itself stands the Hokkaido University Museum (free to enter), dating back to 1884. Inside is a staggering collection of over four million scientific specimens. Nearby you will also find Miyabe Hall, home to intriguing displays of letters and journals belonging to Professor Miyabe Kingo, the first director of Hokkaidō University, who established the gardens in 1886. Miyabe’s descriptions of his travels abroad, written in English and illustrated with photographs, make fascinating reading.

Former Hokkaidō Government Building

北海道庁旧本庁舎, Hokkaido-chō Kyū Honchōsha • Kita 3, Nishi 6 • Daily 8.45am–6pm • Free • 011-231-4111 • pref.hokkaido.lg.jp/sm/sum/sk/akarenga.htm

The palatial red-brick Former Hokkaidō Government Building (nicknamed akarenga, or “red-brick building”), dating to 1888, is worth a visit on your way to or from the Botanical Gardens. The building is a fine example of the local architecture that fused the late nineteenth-century European and New World influences flooding into the country with Japanese traditions. Inside, the wood-panelled interiors have been nicely maintained and hung with large-scale historical paintings.

Tokeidai

時計台 • Kita 1, Nishi 2 • Daily 8.45am–5pm; closed Jan 1–3 • ¥200 • 0112 31 0838, sapporoshi-tokeidai.jp/english

Five blocks south of Sapporo Station, opposite the Sapporo International Communication Plaza, is the Tokeidai, a wooden clock tower that’s one of the city’s key landmarks. You’d be right in thinking that this wood-clad building would look more at home somewhere like Boston, because that’s where it was made in 1878; inside is an uninspiring exhibition on the building’s history.

Sapporo TV Tower

さっぽろテレビ塔, Sapporo Terebi-tō • Ōdōri Nishi 1 • Daily: May–Oct 9am–10pm; Nov–April 9.30am–9.30pm • ¥720 • 0112 41 1131, tv-tower.co.jp/en

One block south of the Tokeidai lies Ōdōri-kōen and the contrasting 147m red steel Sapporo TV Tower. During the snow festival, the viewing platform provides a lovely vista down the park, particularly at night. On a clear day, you can see the surrounding mountains and even out to the sea.

Susukino

すすきの

The neon-illuminated excess of Susukino, one of the largest area of bars, restaurants and nightclubs north of Tokyo, begins on the southern side of Ōdōri-kōen, and is best explored at night. This is where Sapporo goes to play, and to eat ramen. If you’re here during the day, you could window-shop the covered shopping arcade Tanuki-kōji Shōtengai (狸小路商店街).

Sapporo Beer Museum

サッポロビール博物館, Sapporo Biiru Hakubutsukan • サッポロビール園, Sapporo Biiru-en • サッポロビール博物館, Sapporo Biiru Hakubutsukan • Kita 7 Higashi 9 • Museum: daily 11am–8pm • Free; beer sample ¥300 or ¥350 depending on beer, three for ¥600 • 0117 48 1876, sapporobeer.jp/english • Bus #88 runs every 20min directly to the complex (¥210) from behind Tōkyū department store, near Sapporo Station, or take subway to Higashi-Kuyakusho-Mae on the Tōhō line (¥200) and walk for about 1km

Just east of the city centre stands the hugely popular Sapporo Beer Museum and Beer Garden. It was an American adviser to Hokkaidō who noted the hops growing locally and realized that, with its abundant winter ice, Sapporo was the ideal location for a commercial brewery. When the first brewery opened in 1876, locals didn’t touch beer, so for years Sapporo exported to the foreign community in Tokyo, which is where the company’s headquarters are now.

Built in 1891, this grand red-brick complex was originally the factory of the Sapporo Sugar Company; it’s now Sapporo’s smallest brewery, since much of the building has been turned over to an exhibition on the brewing process and the history of the company, not to mention several restaurants, pubs and souvenir shops. At the end of the exhibition, while sipping beer samples, you can admire a wall coated with a century’s worth of colourful ad posters. After you’ve learned all about the making of the beer, you can enjoy it at your leisure, along with a huge plate of Genghis Khan barbecued lamb, in the Beer Garden next door.

SAPPORO’S BREWERIES

Apart from Sapporo Beer Museum you can also try the tours at Asahi Breweries (アサヒビール北海道工場, Asahi Biiru Hokkaidō Kōjō; daily 9.30am–3pm; asahibeer.co.jp/brewery/language/english/) or Kirin Breweries (キリンビール北海道千歳工場, Kirin Biiru Hokkaidō Chitose Kōjō; Tues–Sat 9.30–11.30am & 1–3.30pm; kirin.co.jp/entertainment/factory/english/beer). Reservations are required at each.

WINTER SPORTS IN SAPPORO

As you’d expect for the location of the 1972 Winter Olympics, there are several good ski hills within easy reach of Sapporo, including Teine ( sapporo-teine.com/snow/lang/en; 10–15min from Sapporo Station to Teine Station, then 15min by bus), Kokusai ( sapporo-kokusai.jp/en; 1hr 30min from Sapporo Station by bus) and Takino Snow World ( takinopark.com; subway to Makomanai Station on the Namboku line, then 35min on the bus to Suzuran-kōen Higashi-guchi), which offers six cross-country ski courses from 1km to 16km long, in addition to ski and snowboard slopes, snowshoe treks and sledding.

At Snowmobile Land ( 0116 61 5355, snowmobileland.jp), you can take a ride on one of the eponymous machines over a 90km course that winds through the forests to viewpoints looking out over the city and, most dramatically, into the base of a quarry. Rates start at ¥11,000 for 60 minutes, or ¥15,000 for 90 minutes, including all protective gear. Women riders may drive single-seaters, but not the heavier double-seaters, which they may only ride pillion. To reach the course (usually open Dec–March), take the subway to Hassamu Minami Station on the Tōzai line, then bus #41 to Fukui Entei-mae, which is the final stop.

Hokkaidō Jingū

北海道神宮 • 474 Miyagaoka, Chuo-ku • Seasonal hours but generally 7am–4pm • Free • 0116 11 0261, hokkaidojingu.or.jp • 15min from Maruyama-kōen Station on the Tōzai line

The affluent suburb of Maruyama-kōen is where you’ll find the island’s principal Shintō shrine, Hokkaidō Jingū, amid a leafy park where 1,400 cherry trees break into spectacular blossom each May. See the website for details of annual major festivals, including the main festival (June 14–16), when four mikoshi, or portable shrines, are paraded through the streets of Sapporo.

Sapporo Winter Sports Museum

札幌ウィンタースポーツミュージアム, Sapporo Uintā Supōtsu Myūjiamu • Daily: May–Oct 9am–6pm; Nov–April 9.30am–5pm • ¥600; ski jump lift ¥500 return • 0116 41 8585, sapporo-olympicmuseum.jp/english • Bus #14 from Maruyama-kōen subway station to Ōkurayama Kyōgijō Iriguchi bus stop (10min), and then a 10min walk uphill; a taxi from Maruyama-kōen Station is around ¥1000

The highlight of the fun Sapporo Winter Sports Museum – which occupies the Ski Jump Stadium at Ōkurayama (大倉山), built for the 1972 Winter Olympics – is a ski jump simulator that gives you an idea of what it’s like to participate in this daring winter sport. There are also simulations for bobsleighing, cross-country skiing and speed skating, among other things – it’s all a hoot, and afterwards you can ride the passenger lift to the top of the ski jump to see the view for real.

Historical Village of Hokkaidō

北海道開拓の村, Hokkaidō Kaitaku no Mura • 50-1 Konopporo, Atsubetsu-chō • May–Sept daily 9am–5pm; Oct–April Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥800; combined ticket with Historical Museum (see below) ¥1350 • 0118 98 2694, kaitaku.or.jp • Buses from platform 10 beneath Shin-Sapporo Station; train from Sapporo Station to Shinrin-kōen Station (¥260; 15min), then bus (¥210; 12min)

Some 15km from the city centre, the Historical Village of Hokkaidō is one of Hokkaidō’s highlights. Laid out across spacious grounds in Nopporo Forest Park, this impressive outdoor museum contains some sixty buildings constructed between the mid-nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, as large-scale immigration from Honshū cranked up. Wandering around the village’s four main areas, representing town, farm, mountain and fishing communities, will give you a strong impression of what Hokkaidō looked like before prefabricated buildings and concrete expressways became the norm. The buildings have been restored as beautifully inside as out and spruced up with displays related to their former use, be it sweet shop, silkworm house or woodcutter’s shanty. There are guides in some houses (Japanese-speaking only) and written English explanations in all. It’s a good idea to wear slip-on shoes, as you’ll be taking them off a lot to explore the interiors.

To cover the whole site will take you at least half a day; either bring a picnic or try one of the inexpensive restaurants or refreshment stops within the village.

Historical Museum of Hokkaidō

北海道開拓記念館, Hokkaidō Kaitaku Kinenkan • 53-2 Konopporo, Atsubetsu-chō • Tues–Sat: May–Sept 9.30am–5pm; Oct–April 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥600; combined ticket with Historical Village (see above) ¥1350 • 0118 98 0466, hm.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp/en • Same travel details as for Historical Village of Hokkaidō (see above), but get off the bus one stop earlier at Kinenkan Iriguchi

As well as the Historical Village of Hokkaidō, the grounds of Nopporo Forest Park are also home to the mildly interesting Historical Museum of Hokkaidō, which contains over four thousand items showing the history of Hokkaidō from a million years ago to the present day. There are separate displays on the island’s ancient times, Ainu history, colonization, the postwar period and the Hokkaidō of tomorrow.

Moerenuma Park

モエレ沼公園, Moerenuma-kōen • Park daily 7am–10pm; beach early June to early Sept 10am–4pm, closed Thurs • Free • 0117 90 1231, moerenumapark.jp • Subway to Kanjō-Dōri-Higashi Station on the Tōhō line, then from bus terminal above station take bus #69 or #79; get off at Moere-kōen Higashiguchi (combined journey around 40min), then walk 5min

About 10km northeast of the city centre, Moerenuma Park is part playground, part sculpture garden displaying the works of internationally renowned artist and landscape architect Noguchi Isamu. In the giant glass pyramid, which has observation decks and a library/lounge, you can peruse English-language books about the artist, who died shortly after completing the masterplan for the park in 1988. With its massed plantings of cherry trees, wide lawns, the spectacular Sea Fountain water sculpture and a shallow pebbled bathing beach, the park is popular with local families and is a convivial spot for a picnic.

Shiroi Koibito Park

白い恋人パーク, Shiroi Kobito-kōen • 2-2-11-36 Miyanosawa • Daily 9am–7pm, factory tour 9am–6pm • Factory tour from ¥600 • 011-666-1481, shiroikoibitopark.jp/en • Take Miyanō-sawa Station on the Tōzai line, then walk; or bus from JR Sapporo Bus terminal in the direction of Otaru and get off at the Nishi-machi kita 20-chome bus stop, then a short walk

It may be overrun with tourists and screaming children, but Shiroi Koibito Park produces Hokkaidō’s most sought-after confectionery: a white-chocolate-filled cookie. Take the tour of its European-style factory to see the cookies being made or test out your own skills by making Hokkaidō-shaped cookies in the Cookiecraft Studio. If you’re interested in antiques, make sure to scour the vintage toy collection inside the main building, full of gems from the Taisha and Shōwa periods; and during the summer, walk around the beautiful rose gardens while snacking on the park’s signature ice cream. Don’t miss the clock striking on the hour, presenting a ten-minute “chocolate parade” where automated animals dance high on the tower.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SAPPORO

BY PLANE

New Chitose Airport (新千歳空港; 0123 23 0111, new-chitose-airport.jp/en) is 40km southeast of Sapporo. From here, the fastest way to Sapporo is on the frequent JR train (every 15min; 35min; ¥1070); the bus is marginally cheaper (¥1030) but takes at least twice as long to arrive at the same point.

SAPPORO ADDRESSES

Finding your way around central Sapporo is easy compared to many other Japanese cities because every address has a precise location within the city’s grid plan. The city blocks are named and numbered according to the compass points, the apex being the TV Tower in Ōdōri-kōen. Sapporo Station, for example, is six blocks north of the TV Tower and three blocks west, so its address is Kita 6 (North Six), Nishi 3 (West Three), while Nijō Fish Market is Minami 3 (South Three), Higashi 1-2 (East One-Two).

Destinations Akita (4 daily; 1hr 5min); Aomori (5 daily; 50min); Fukuoka (4 daily; 2hr 20min); Hakodate (2 daily; 35min); Hiroshima (2 daily); Kansai International (13 daily; 2hr 10min); Kushiro (3 daily; 45min); Memanbetsu (7 daily; 45min); Nagoya (21 daily; 1hr 50min); Naha (daily; 4hr); Osaka (12 daily; 1hr 55min); Sendai (13 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokyo (67 daily; 1hr 30min); Wakkanai (2 daily; 55min).

Okadama Airport (札幌丘珠空港; 0117 85 7871, okadama-airport.co.jp), 8km northeast of Sapporo, is mainly used for services within Hokkaidō.

Destinations Hakodate (6 daily; 45min); Kushiro (3 daily; 45min); Rishiri (daily; 1hr); Misawa (1 daily; 1hr).

BY TRAIN

Arriving by train, you’ll pull in at busy JR Sapporo Station, six blocks north of Ōdōri-kōen, the park that bisects Sapporo from east to west.

Destinations Abashiri (4 daily; 5hr 30min); Asahikawa (30 daily; 1hr 30min); Hakodate (15 daily; 4hr); Kushiro (6 daily; 4hr); Noboribetsu (17 daily; 1hr 10min); Otaru (every 10min; 30min); Tokyo (9 daily; 8hr; change to Shinkansen at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station); Tomakomai (18 daily; 45min); Wakkanai (3 daily; 5hr 30min).

BY BUS

Long-distance buses terminate at Chūō Bus Terminal just northeast of Ōdōri-kōen and Sapporo Station Bus Terminal on the south side of the train station beneath the Esta shopping complex.

Destinations Abashiri (9 daily; 6hr); Furano (10 daily; 2hr 25min); Kushiro (5 daily; 5hr 30min); Niseko (2 daily; 3hr); Noboribetsu (daily; 1hr 40min); Tōya-ko (4 daily; 3hr); Wakkanai (6 daily; 6–7hr).

BY FERRY

The closest ferry port to Sapporo is Otaru, 40km to the northwest; ferries arrive here from Maizuru (1 daily; 21hr) and Niigata (1 daily except Mon; 19hr). Ferries from Tokyo (Oarai port) arrive at Tomakomai, 70km to the south (1–2 daily, 19hr), as do ferries from Akita (daily; 10hr); Hachinohe (4 daily; 7–8hr); Nagoya (every other day; 40hr); Niigata (daily; 18hr); Sendai (daily; 15hr); and Tsuruga (daily; 19hr or 32hr depending on company).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Sapporo has several excellent tourist information facilities, all staffed by English-speakers. The Hokkaidō-Sapporo Food and Tourism Information Centre (daily 8.30am–8pm; 0112 13 5088, sapporo.travel/learn/informationcenter) is inside Sapporo Station; you can sort out train tickets and rail passes here. Another option is the Sapporo International Communications Plaza (Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm; 0112 11 3670, plaza-sapporo.or.jp), on the 3rd floor of the MN Building, opposite the Tokeidai, the city’s famous clock tower. Check out sapporo.travel and bit.ly/sapporo-guide for up-to-date information on local sites and festivals.

GETTING AROUND

Most of Sapporo’s sights are within easy walking distance of each other, but the efficient network of subway, trams and buses can be useful if you get tired. Public transport stops running at around 11.30pm, after which you can hail one of the many taxis that roam Sapporo’s streets.

Passes All-day passes for the subway cost ¥830 weekday; ¥520 on Sat, Sun and holidays.

By subway There are three subway lines: the green Namboku line (南北線) and the blue Tōhō line (東豊線) run from north to south through Sapporo Station, while the orange Tōzai line (東西線) intersects them both, running east to west under Ōdōri-kōen. The lowest fare is ¥200, which covers all the stops in the city centre between Sapporo Station in the north and Nakajima-kōen in the south, and Maruyama-kōen in the west and Higashi Sapporo in the east.

By tram The Sapporo Streetcar has a single line and a flat fare of ¥200. It runs from Nishi-Yon-chōme, just south of Ōdōri-kōen, out to Mount Moiwa, south of the city, and back to Susukino.

By bus Buses depart from in front of the Esta building next to Sapporo Station, or nearby; fares start at ¥210.

By car Car rental companies include: Eki Rent-a-Car ( 011 241 0931, ekiren.co.jp/phpapp/en); Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 011 746 0919, nrgroup-global.com/en); and Orix Rent-a-Car ( 0117 26 0543, car.orix.co.jp/eng).

By taxi Ask your accommodation or restaurant to ring one for you.

By bike Bikes can be rented from the city-wide rent-a-cycle service Porocle. A day’s rental starts from ¥1300. Locations and more can be found at porocle.jp/en.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Even though Sapporo has plenty of accommodation, places get booked up well in advance of the snow festival in February, as well as during the summer. There can be great bargains to be had at the upmarket hotels in winter, though.

Hotel Clubby Sapporo ホテルクラビーサッポロ Kita 2, Higashi 3 0112 42 1111, clubby-sapporo.jp/english. This smart hotel is part of the Sapporo Factory redevelopment. Leather and wood fittings lend an old-fashioned air to the lobby and restaurant, but the rooms are modern, spacious and elegantly decorated. ¥14,000

Cross Hotel クロスホテル札幌 2-23 Kita, Nishi 2 0112 72 0010, crosshotel.com/sapporo/en. The city’s best boutique-style hotel offers rooms in three appealing decorative styles (natural, urban and hip), a relaxing rooftop pool and bath, and a cool lounge bar. Doubles ¥25,000

Ino’s Place イノーズプレイス 4-6-5 3-Higashi-Sapporo, Shiroishi-ku 0118 32 1828, inos-place.com/e. Few hostels have a juggling shop, but there’s one at this cosy, welcoming place run by the wonderfully friendly Eiji and Miwa (who both speak fluent English). It’s a 5min walk from Shiroishi subway station on the Tōzai line. Dorms ¥2900, doubles ¥7600

Nakamuraya Ryokan 中村屋旅館 Kita 3, Nishi 7 0112 41 2111, nakamurayaryokan.com. This high-quality Japanese inn is a wonderful choice. The tatami rooms are spacious, the maids wear kimono, and there’s a café in the lobby serving beautifully presented traditional meals. ¥15,700

SappoLodge サッポロッジ Minami 5, Higashi 1-4 0112 11 4314, sappolodge.com. Located a 5min walk from busy Susukino, this beautiful wood-decorated hostel offers both Japanese- and Western-style rooms. There’s also a shared lounge, café/bar and bike rental. Dorms ¥2700, doubles ¥7000

Sapporo Grand Hotel 札幌グランドホテル Kita 1, Nishi 4 0112 61 3311, grand1934.com/en. Dating back to 1934, the city’s first European-style hotel has some very nicely remodelled rooms, and there’s an unbeatable range of facilities, including a spa and small display area on the hotel and the city’s history. ¥23,400

Sapporo International Youth Hostel 札幌国際ユースホステル Toyohira 6-5-35 6jō 0118 25 3120, youthhostel.or.jp/kokusai. Just east of Exit 2 of Gakuen-mae Station on the Tōhō line, this large modern hostel has dorm rooms, tatami rooms for families, and twins for married couples. English is spoken. Breakfast ¥680. Dorms ¥3200, doubles ¥7600

Shabby House 14 Chome-1-7 Minami 15 Jonishi shabbyhouse.jphotel.site. This quirky guesthouse with cosy rooms and, as the name implies, a ‘shabby’-style décor, is located in a 60-year-old Japanese home, only minutes from Nishisenjuyojo Station. You can rent bicycles for free onsite. Doubles ¥7000

Spa Safro スパ サフロ Minami 6, Nishi 5 0115 31 2233, www.safro.org. Amazingly luxurious and excellent-value capsule hotel in the heart of Susukino. Facilities include ornamental baths, massage and treatments and a mini-cinema. There’s also a floor of capsules for women. Add ¥500 to prices at the end of the week. ¥4500

EATING MAP

Sapporo is renowned for its ramen. Try the version called batā-kōn, which is a noodle broth laden with butter and corn. Another local speciality is the lamb jingisukan BBQ (see below). In Susukino, Rāmen Yoko-chō (ラーメン横丁; daily 11.30am–3am) is a busy alley full of ramen joints popular with tourists.

Daruma だるま Minami 5, Nishi 4 0115 52 6013. This is the original cosy fifteen-seater branch of the jingisukan chain, tucked away on a narrow street in the midst of Susukino; look for the red lantern and scowling bald Genghis on the sign outside. One plate of meat costs ¥850. If it’s full, you could try the larger places at Minami 6, Nishi 4 and Minami 4, Nishi 4. Daily 5pm–3am.

Ebiten Bunten 蛯天分店 Minami 2, Nishi 4 0112 71 2867, ebiten.co.jp. This traditional family-run tempura shop, first opened in 1963, serves delicately battered tempura sets over bowls of white rice (from ¥1300). English-language menus are available. Daily 11.30am–10pm.

Garaku Soup Curry スープカレー GARAKU Minami 2, Nishi 2 0112 33 5568, s-garaku.com. Soup curry is a Hokkaidō speciality, and Garaku is a great place to try a soft pork variety (¥1250). Pick your spice level (between 1 and 40), but proceed with caution above 6 (spice above level 5 incurs an extra charge, between ¥110 and ¥210). Tasty lassis available too. Mon–Sat 11.30am–3.30pm & 5–11.30pm. Other branches have varying hours.

NORIA FERRIS WHEEL

A popular date spot in Sapporo is the fluorescent multicoloured Noria Ferris Wheel (Mon–Thurs & Sun 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–3am; ¥600), atop the Norbesa shopping mall at Minami 3, Nishi 5. There’s a wonderful view of the city lights from the top.

MEAL FIT FOR A KHAN

It’s rare to find lamb on most Japanese menus, but not in Sapporo, home of the jingisukan, or “Genghis Khan” barbecue. This delicious feast of flame-grilled meat and vegetables gets its name from the convex table grill on which it’s cooked, said to resemble the Mongolian warrior’s helmet. All the restaurants at the Sapporo Beer Garden next to the Sapporo Beer Museum offer the dish, as does the rival beer garden Kirin . At either, you can pig out on as much barbecue and beer as you can within one hundred minutes, for a set price of around ¥3800. You’ll be provided with a plastic bib to protect against dribbles from the dipping sauce, but it’s still best to dress down, since the smell of sizzled mutton lingers long after you’ve left. The big beer gardens, packed with tourists, have a boisterous Germanic quality; for a more intimate jingisukan experience, try Daruma.

Garyumenbu Hien 我流麺舞 飛燕 9-4-14, Nakanoshima Ichi-jo, Toyohira-ku 0118425262. For ramen with a twist, try this small ramen shop where the broth is made from a rich fish stock. It’s a little further away from the central area, but locals often queue up outside at lunchtime for the rich, salty broth. Fri–Wed 11am–8pm.

Hokkaidō Milk Mura 北海道ミルク村 6F New Hokusai Building, Minami 4, Nishi 3 0112 19 6455. Hokkaidō is famous in Japan for the quality of its milk products, and in this quirkily decorated bar, ice cream is paired with alcohol to create original concoctions. A set comes with ice cream (and one free refill), three liqueur shots from a staggering list, coffee and cookie (¥1390). Tues–Sun 1pm–11pm, Wed 1pm–5pm.

Kani Honke かに本家 1-18 2-chome Kitasanjyo-Nishi, Chuouku 0112 22 0018, www.kani-honke.co.jp/en. Considered the father of ‘crab cuisine’, Kani Honke is famed across Japan for its set courses and hotpot lunches serving crab fresh from Hokkaido. The Sapporo branch, by the main station, is traditionally designed with wooden tables and tatami mats. Daily 11.30am–10pm.

Kushidori 串鳥 Minami 2, Nishi 5 0112 22 1231. A row of red lanterns dangles from the front of this busy yakitori joint. Sit at the counter to take in the full atmosphere. An English menu eases ordering from a wide range of skewered delights, starting at around ¥130 a serving. Daily 11am–2pm, 4.30pm–12.30am.

Musica Hall Café 10-3 ミュージカー・ホール・キャフェー Minami 3, Nishi, Chuo-ku www.musica-hall-cafe.com. At this quirky café, not far from Sapporo Station, you can listen to new or well-established artists playing live music to a small crowd. They do a set lunch every day for ¥850, with a main dish, salad, drink and desert. Tues–Sun 11.30am–9pm (closed Tues if Mon is public holiday).

Risotteria Gaku リゾッテリア ガク Minami 2, Nishi 2 0112 19 6004, risotteria-gaku.net. The most central of four branches in Sapporo, serving around eighty different types of risotto, with all ingredients sourced from Hokkaidō and most for under ¥1000. Expect large portions and superb Italian desserts. Daily 11am–10pm.

Sapporo Ramen Kyowakoku 札幌ら～めん共和国 Kita 5, Nishi 2 0112 09 5031, www.sapporo-esta.jp/ramen. On the tenth floor of the Esta shopping building, this ramen bonanza features eight ramen restaurants from all over Japan (from ¥850 a bowl). Daily 11am–10pm.

Yukikaze 雪風 Minami 7, Nishi 4 0115 12 3022. Customers eagerly wait in line at this convivial, late-night ramen shop where the noodle dishes (about ¥900) are made with loving care and better-than-average ingredients. Mon–Sat 6pm–3am, Sun 6pm–midnight.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Amid the myriad hostess clubs and sex joints of the neon-drenched party district of Susukino, there are plenty of reputable bars and restaurants, so it is easy to avoid the sleazy places. The covered shopping arcade of Tanuki-kōji also has a good selection of bars. In the summer, outdoor beer gardens sprout across the city, including in Ōdōri-kōen.

BARS

The Bar Nano ザ・バー・ナノ Minami 3, Nishi 3 0112 31 2668, nano.sapporo-bar.net. Creative cocktails in a beautiful and intimate setting in the midst of Suskino. There’s a ¥700 charge after 8pm. Mon–Thurs 5pm–2am, Fri & Sat 5pm–3am.

Habana ハバナ Minami 3, Nishi 6 0112 19 8870. On the second and third floors of the Tanuki-kōji shopping arcade, this Cuban-styled café-bar offers spicy chicken, rice entrées and lively Latin American music, plus occasional salsa parties. Tues–Thurs 6pm–1am, Fri & Sat 6pm–3am.

TK6 ティ・ケイ・シックス Minami 2, Nishi 6 011 212 1836, tk6.jp. At the western end of the Tanuki-kōji arcade, this spacious and relaxed gaijin-run café-bar serves Aussie meat pies, salads and hefty burgers (from ¥1100), plus draught and craft beer. Daily 4pm–2am.

CLUBS

KING XMHU キングム Minami 7, Nishi 6 0112 52 9912, kingxmhu.com. This hugely popular nightclub has three floors decorated like a tribal temple, crazy entrance and all. Big names tend to play here and elaborate costumes are the norm. Keep tattoos covered and no flip-flops. Tickets up to ¥3500, depending on the show, but women sometimes get in for free. Mon–Sat 8pm–late.

Sound Lab Mole Sound Labモール Nikō Building Basement, Minami 3, Nishi 4-24-10 mole-sapporo.jp, 011 207 5101. This basement club is just off the Tanuki-kōji arcade. It’s open most days, either for live bands or club nights. Entry prices and hours vary depending on event.

ENTERTAINMENT

Sapporo Concert Hall Kitara 札幌コンサートホール Kitara 1-15 Nakajima-kōen 0115 20 2000, kitara-sapporo.or.jp. This concert hall in Nakajima Park hosts regular classical and other popular music concerts by Japanese and visiting overseas musicians.

Theater Kino シアターキノ 2F Grand Building, Minami 2, Nishi 6 0112 31 9355, theaterkino.net. A two-screen cinema showing mainly art-house films, with subtitles in English.

SHOPPING MAP

Daiso ダイソ Minami 2, Nishi 2 0112 21 5273, daiso-sangyo.co.jp. Find everything you forgot to pack at this popular ¥100 store across five floors. Close to Ōdōri-kōen. Daily 10am–9pm.

Esta エスタ Kita 5, Nishi 2 0112 13 2111, www.sapporo-esta.jp. Another shopping complex next to Sapporo Station; this one has Bic Camera, Uniqlo, a decent supermarket, and Jupiter, an import food store. Ramen Kyowakoku is on the tenth floor as well. Daily 10am–9pm (restaurants until 10pm).

Kinokuniya 紀伊國屋 Kita 5, Nishi 5 0112 31 2131, kinokuniya.co.jp. Just west of Sapporo Station, this has the best selection of English-language books and magazines. Daily 10am–9pm.

Sapporo Factory サッポロファクトリー Kita 2, Higashi 4 0112 07 5000, sapporofactory.jp. This was the first brewery in the city, converted in 1993 into a shopping and entertainment complex. It now has dozens of outlets, with a huge selection of outdoor clothing and camping gear in the block furthest back from the street. Daily 10am–10pm.

Tanuki-kōji 狸小路商店街 Minami 3 tanukikoji.or.jp. The oldest shopping street in Hokkaidō, this covered shopping arcade, named after the beloved raccoon dog character, stretches for six blocks across Minami 3 and is well worth exploring.

Tōkyū Hands 東急ハンズ Minami 1, Nishi 6 0112 18 6111, tokyu-hands.co.jp. A great place for souvenir shopping, with seven floors of hobby, DIY and lifestyle products. Daily 10am–8pm.

DIRECTORY

Consulates Australia (Kita 5, Nishi 6; 0112 42 4381); China (Minami 13, Nishi 23; 0115 63 5563); South Korea (Kita 2, Nishi 12; 0116 21 0288); Russia (Minami 14, Nishi 12; 0115 61 3171); US (Kita 1, Nishi 28; 0116 41 1115).

LGBTQ NIGHTLIFE IN SAPPORO

Sapporo has one of Japan’s most visible LGBTQ bar scenes. Most bars are situated in the Susukino area, with Sound Lab Mole sometimes hosting gay dance nights. Like other places in Japan, Sapporo is currently fighting for official recognition of same-sex partnerships. In 2018, the local government succeeded in introducing cards to same-sex couples to act as proof of their relationship, with other small successes following.

Bar Orb バー オーブ 4F Shakō Kaikan Building, Minami 5, Nishi 2 0902 42 7070, www.barorb.com. On the scene since 2007, and run by English-speaker Kae, this cosy bar is great for meeting locals. Women only on Sat. Cover ¥300. Mon–Sat 6pm–2am.

Hearty Café ハーティ・カフェ 2F Dai-ichi Family Building, Minami 5, Nishi 6 0115 30 6022. A relatively spacious bar where gaijin should receive a friendly welcome. Admission of ¥1600 includes one drink. Daily 8pm–3am, Fri & Sat till 4am. Closes randomly.

SA Building SAビル Minami 6, Nishi 6. The SA Building is home to more than twenty tiny gay bars, seating ten to twenty people in each; most of the bars cater to men. Opening hours vary. Two of the most popular bars include Sigh Oh ( sign-oh.com; Fri–Wed 8pm–late), a lively shot bar, and Excellent Luck ( excellent-luck.com), whose cover charge of ¥1,000 includes a shot and a light snack.

Post office The Central Post Office is at Kita 6, Higashi 1 (Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, Sat till 7pm, Sun till 5pm, 0570 001 265). There is also another branch located in the Paseo shopping centre, which is in the JR Sapporo Station complex (daily 10am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm, 011 213 5255).

Otaru and around

小樽

The attractive port of OTARU, some 40km northwest of Sapporo, grew rich at the turn of the nineteenth century on the back of herring fishing. It also acted as a base for the modern development of Hokkaidō. Reminders of this wealth remain in the shape of handsome, heritage-listed Meiji-era buildings. Parts of town are touristy, but to escape the crowds just hop on a bus to Shukutsu, where you’ll find a couple of the best architectural examples from Otaru’s glory days. In summer, take a canal cruise from Asakusa-bashi bridge to see the town from the water. In February, Otaru hosts its Snow Light Path Festival at the same time as Sapporo, though on a much smaller scale, with small snow sculptures and lanterns running along the canal and the old train line.

If you have trouble finding somewhere to stay in Sapporo, Otaru makes an easy base for excursions back to Sapporo, or on to Yoichi if you’re interested in the whisky distillery. However, it’s a lovely place to spend a night or two in its own right. Otaru’s romantic, antique atmosphere is best experienced beside the Otaru Unga (小樽運河), the portside canal lined with brick warehouses, particularly the section between Chūō-dōri, the main street heading towards the harbour from the train station, and parallel Nichigin-dōri. In winter, drift ice floats along the shore in the ocean.

Bank of Japan Otaru Museum

日本銀行旧小樽支店金融資料館, Nihon Ginkō Kū-Otaru Shiten Kinyū Shiryōkan • Nichigin-dōri, 1-11-16 Ironai • April–Nov 9.30am–5pm; Dec–Feb 10am–5pm; closed Wed • Free • 0134 21 1111, www3.boj.or.jp/otaru-m

The Bank of Japan Otaru Museum, a stone and brick structure dating from 1912 and in business till 2002, was designed by Kingo Tatsuno, the architect of the original red-brick Tokyo Station. Look for the striped owl keystones decorating the exterior – the birds are guardian deities of the Ainu. Inside, the 10.5m-high ceiling of the main banking hall looks as impressive today as it must have to Otaru’s citizens back in the early twentieth century.

Tenguyama

天狗山 • Ropeway Daily 9.30am–9pm • Return ¥1140 • Ski lift Daily Dec–Feb 9am–8pm; March 9am–4pm • One-day rentals ¥3900 • 0134 33 7381, bit.ly/tenguyama-ropeway • Buses (¥220) run to the cable-car from platform #4 outside Otaru Station (18min)

For a wonderful view of Otaru and the bay, ride the ropeway (cable-car) up Tenguyama, southwest of the station, where the panoramic view has been designated one of the ‘top three in Hokkaidō’. There’s a restaurant, chipmunk-feeding zone, an interesting archive outlining the history of ski materials and a free exhibition of more than 700 Tengu masks from all over Japan (Tengu is the long-nosed goblin after whom the mountain is named). There’s also good skiing in winter with half a dozen runs varying in difficulty.

Nishin Goten Otaru Kihinkan Villa

にしん御殿小樽貴賓館 • 3-63 Shukutsu • Daily: 9am–5pm, Nov–March till 4pm • ¥1080 • 0134 61 7007, otaru-kihinkan.jp • Bus #11 from Otaru Station heads to Shukutsu (20min); during April to mid-Oct, can be reached by Otaru Aquarium-bound boats from Otaru’s Pier no. 3

From Otaru, it’s about 5km to Shukutsu (祝津), home of the area’s best historical site: the spectacular traditional Japanese villa Nishin Goten Otaru Kihinkan Villa (also known as Former Aoyama Villa). The Aoyama family, herring tycoons of the early twentieth century, spared little expense when they commissioned this beautiful wooden building; it’s full of exquisite screen paintings and antique pieces, and surrounded by ornamental gardens

Nishin Goten

鰊御殿 • 3-228 Shukutsu • Daily: April–Oct 9am–5pm; late Oct–Nov 9am–4pm • ¥300 • 0134 22 1038, bit.ly/herring-mansion • Bus #10 or #11 from Otaru Station heads to Shukutsu (20min); in summer (April to mid-Oct), you can hop on the Otaru Aquarium-bound boats from Otaru’s Pier no. 3

By Shukutsu Harbour, a ten-minute walk from the Kihinkan Villa, you’ll find several other heritage buildings dating from the herring boom era, including stone warehouses and the large-scale fishermen’s dormitory Nishin Goten (also known as Herring Mansion) in a prominent hillside position overlooking the small harbour – look out for its red roof. As you’ll see, this area is refreshingly free of commercial trappings compared to downtown Otaru.

Nikka Whisky Distillery

余市蒸溜所, Yoichi Jōryūsho • 7-6 Kurokawa-chō, Yoichi • Daily 9.15am–5pm; regular tours (1hr) • ¥500 • 0135 23 3131, nikka.com/eng/distilleries • Yoichi is one stop west of Otaru on the train line; distillery is 1min walk from station

If you’re interested in whisky, don’t miss the fascinating Nikka Whisky Distillery. This was founded by Taketsuru Masataka, the son of a sake brewer in Hiroshima prefectur. There are guided tours in Japanese, or you can wander through the grounds following the distilling process, before trying some free samples. The film telling Taketsuru and Rita’s story is particularly moving, and there’s an interesting display of their personal possessions and Nikka advertising materials through the ages featuring, among others, Rod Stewart and Orson Welles.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OTARU AND AROUND

By train Limited express trains (¥1160) from Sapporo take 30–45min to reach Otaru JR Station. Local trains are slightly cheaper (¥640, roughly every 15min).

By ferry Ferries ( 0134 22 6191, www.snf.jp/english) from Niigata and Maizuru (north of Kyoto) dock at the ferry terminal, some 5km east of the train station. Regular buses run between the ferry terminal and the train station; a taxi will cost around ¥1000.

Destinations Maizuru (1 daily; 21hr); Niigata (1 daily except Mon; 19hr).

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist office inside the train station (daily 9am–6pm; 0134 29 1333, city.otaru.lg.jp), plus a couple of other tourist offices up by the canal – a larger one next to the Otaru Museum (daily 9am–6pm; 8pm in summer 0134 33 1661), and a tiny one by Asakusa Bridge (daily 9am–6pm; 0134 23 7740).

Canal cruise In the warmer months, you can get a good perspective of the town on a cruise from Asakusa-bashi bridge (40min loop; day cruise ¥1500, night cruise ¥1800; 0134 31 1733, otaru.cc).

Bike rental You can rent bikes by the hour (¥400) or day (¥1500) at Charinko Otaru, a few minutes’ walk from the train station. Luggage storage is free with bike rental.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Ginrinsou 銀鱗荘 1-1 Sakura 0134 54 7010, ginrinsou.com. Overlooking the bay, this beautiful Japanese-style ryokan offers eighteen luxurious tatami rooms, most with in-room onsen. Their outdoor open-air onsen is atop Cape Hiraiso, and a French restaurant, bar, and spa are on site. Half board from ¥63,000

Morinoki 杜の樹 4-15 Aioi Otaru otaru-backpackers.com/en. This simple, comfortable guesthouse caters to budget travellers looking for a convenient location. It’s one of the longest-serving guesthouses in Otaru, with a self-catering kitchen, free Wi-Fi and on-site laundry. Dorm beds from ¥3000

Otaru Furukawa 小樽ふる川 1 Chome-2-15 Ironai www.otaru-furukawa.com. This traditional hotel stands beside the canal in the centre of the city, with all of the rooms offering either city or canal views. There is also a beautiful garden-facing hot spring bath onsite. Doubles ¥32,000

Otaru Guest House Harvest 小樽ゲストハウスハーベスト 1-2-3 Nagahasi 0134 27 9736, otaru-harvest.com. This hospitable guesthouse is an easy 15min walk from the canal and offers a sun roof and terrace, shared kitchen and both Japanese-style rooms and bunk beds. Doubles ¥7400

THE WHISKY OF YOICHI

Having studied the painstaking art of sake brewing, Taketsuru Masataka developed a passion for Scotch whisky, and went to study the techniques of whisky-making in Scotland in 1918. While there, he met and married a young Scottish girl, Rita Cowan, despite the objections of her parents, and took her back with him when he returned to Japan two years later. There is a popular NHK drama called Massan that depicts their story.

Taketsuru and Rita eventually established a whisky distillery (see above) in 1934 in Yoichi, which Taketsuru rightly realized had the necessary climate and conditions for whisky production. The distillery came under the control of the military in 1940, shortly after the release of its first distilled whisky, and for the duration of the war it made cheap military ration whisky. After the war, the company’s investors insisted he focus the distillery’s efforts on producing cheap, low-quality whisky, believing the Japanese population couldn’t afford the luxury of high-class spirits. But Taketsuru continued to improve his methods on the side, and in 1964 was able to sell three grades of whisky for the first time. In 2008, Yoichi 20 Year Old was voted best single malt at the World Whisky Awards.

OTARU CITY BUS PASS

Otaru offers the Otaru City Bus One-day Pass for ¥750, which allows unlimited rides on the regular bus lines and Otaru Stroller’s Bus. This is sold at the bus terminal, Canal Plaza and tourist offices.

Otaru Station Square Guest House Ito 小樽駅前ゲストハウス Ito 2-3-13 Inaho 0134 61 1569, otaruito.com. This budget hostel is just 5min from the JR station and very close to all the famous tourist sites. The staff are very accommodating and have lots of suggestions for where to eat. Shared kitchen with free coffee and tea. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥7000

EATING MAP

Otaru is renowned for its sushi and sashimi restaurants. If unusual ice-cream flavours are more your thing, then Otaru may offer your only chance to tick off such flavours as sea urchin and nattō (fermented soybeans), among others. Most of the restaurants on Sakai-machi Hon-dōri are overpriced, so aim for a side street.

Junkissa Hikari 光 Miyako-dōri Arcade 0134 22 0933. Good for a cup of coffee and cake for under ¥1000, this hushed café, open since 1933 and packed to the rafters with antique glass lamps and old ship steering wheels, is a rare treat and generally unmobbed by the tourist throng. Daily 10am–6pm.

Kita-no-Aisukuriimu-ya-san 北のアイスクリーム屋さん 1-2-18 Ironai 0134 23 8983. This ice-cream parlour offers unique flavours such as squid, sea urchin and nattō, alongside more traditional ones. ¥300 for a single scoop, ¥500 for a double. Daily 9.30am–5pm (Oct–April until 4pm).

Minshuku Aotsuka Shokudou 青塚 Opposite the harbour, Shukutsu 0134 22 8034, www2.odn.ne.jp/aotuka. Drop by this simple waterside café, below the fishermen’s dormitory, for super-fresh fish dishes (around ¥1000). Herring, the fish that made the area’s fortunes, are grilled outside. Daily 10am–7pm.

Uminekoya 海猫屋 2-2-14 Ironai 0134 34 8222, uminekoya.com. In an old warehouse covered in ivy, one block back from the canal, an enticing place for a drink or a light meal of Western or Japanese food. Pasta dishes are under ¥2000 and clam chowder soup is ¥650. 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm; closed Tues.

Uomasa 魚真 2-5-11 Inaho 0134 29 0259. You’ll find scores of touristy sushi restaurants on Sakai-machi Hon-dōri, but this one on a side street closer to Otaru Station is a winner. Their fifteen-piece sushi set is great value at ¥2700, as are their various sashimi rice bowls. Mon–Sat noon–2pm & 4–9pm.

DRINKING MAP

Modern Times モダンタイムス 1-9-6 Hanazono 0134 33 2025. Extremely hip and popular New York-style bar with a beautiful range of cocktails; it’s easy to feel transported to a jazzier time. Mon–Thurs 7pm–1am, Fri–Sat 7pm–2am.

Otaru Beer Warehouse No.1 小樽ビール 5-4 Minato-machi 0134 21 2323, otarubeer.com. A microbrewery beside the Otaru Canal turning out quaffable German-style ales; you can take a free 20min guided tour in English to see behind the scenes. Wurst sausage plates are ¥680, and pizzas are around ¥1100. Daily 11am–11pm.

SHOPPING MAP

Kitaichi Glass Outlet 北海道小樽市堺町 7-20 Sakaimachi 0134 33 1991, kitaichiglass.co.jp. A good place to shop for the glass souvenirs, from cups and plates to fountain pens made of glass. Daily 8.45am–6pm.

Sakai-machi 堺町本通り Hon-dōri. Shadows the canal to the south, is an extremely touristy street but worth exploring, particularly for its many cut- and blown-glass shops, which is a local tradition of Otaru.

Niseko

ニセコ

Around 70km south of Otaru is NISEKO, Japan’s premier winter sports destination, with impressive amounts of perfect powder snow and top-class, interlinked ski fields. The resort hugs Mount Niseko-Annupuri and faces the dormant volcano Mount Yōtei-san (also known as the Ezo Fuji for its resemblance to its more famous southern cousin). The village of Hirafu (比羅夫), close to the area’s main town of Kutchan (倶知安), has seen the brunt of development, much of it through foreign investment. During the ski season (Dec–April) Hirafu booms as skiers jet in from as far afield as Melbourne, Hong Kong and London to take advantage of a fantastic range of facilities, including stylish accommodation and dining options. With the highest international population ratio in Japan, Niseko has become a foodie paradise, enticing visitors to return outside of the ski season.

SKIING IN NISEKO

Niseko United ( niseko.ne.jp) is the umbrella name for four separate ski resorts: Niseko Annupuri (ニセコアンヌプリ), Niseko Village (ニセコ町), Niseko Grand Hirafu (ニセコ グラン・ヒラフ) and Niseko Hanazono (花園). You can buy individual lift tickets from each of the resorts, but the smartest deal is to go for one of the All Mountain Passes (from ¥8000 for a one-day ticket in season), which is issued as an electronic tag – you’ll need to wave it at the barrier by each of the lifts – with a ¥1000 refundable deposit. Pass holders can ride the shuttle bus for free between all the resorts.

If you’re looking to ski Niseko’s backcountry, then hire a guide from either Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC; 0136 23 2093, nacadventures.jp/en) or Niseko Outdoor Adventure Sports Club (NOASC; 0136 23 1688, noasc.com), both in Hirafu; each employs English-speaking guides and also offers snowboarding, Telemark skiing and ice climbing in winter, and activities such as kayaking and whitewater rafting in summer. Other reputable and local ski tour operators include Black Diamond Tours ( 0136 55 5953, blackdiamondtours.com) and Ski Japan ( 0136 22 4611, skijapan.com).

Soaking in an onsen is a fine way to wind down after a day on the slopes. Try the baths at Hirafutei (daily 7am–10:30am & 3pm–11pm; ¥1000) on Hirafu-zaka Street, or drive 15 minutes from Hirafu village to the magical rotemburo at Hilton Niseko Village (daily 1–9pm; ¥1000) with views of Mt Yotei from the open-air bath.

For an excellent day option away from the tourist crowds, head to Rutsusu, considered Japan’s largest ski resort with its steep slopes and tree coverage. By car, it’s only 45 minutes from Niseko, but shuttle buses and tour operators run day-trips from Hirafu Welcome Centre.

Situated within the Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Quasi National Park, the area also makes an amazing summer base when it’s far less crowded. It becomes the focal point for many adventure sports including whitewater rafting, mountain biking and kayaking. Hiking is also a great summer option, with the trails on Yōtei-san and Annupuri offering spectacular panoramic views of the valleys below. Ask the tourist offices for hiking maps and accessible routes. For a fun cultural experience full of international food, dancing, and fireworks, check out the Kutchan Jaga Matsuri (potato festival) in early August.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND NISEKO

In summer, public transport is scaled back and it gets a whole lot trickier (but not impossible) to get here – and to get around – without your own car.

By train Alight from the train at Kutchan and connect to Hirafu by bus (15min; free). Various return packages offered by JR from either Sapporo or Otaru make things really simple and can be unbeatable deals: for example, train, bus, ski-lift ticket and ski or snowboard rental for ¥5500 for the day – check with tourist information in Sapporo for what’s available.

By bus Many buses run directly to the ski slopes from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport from around ¥2600 one-way (hourly; 2hr 30min). Good access information is available at nisekotourism.com. Shuttle buses crisscross the area during the tourist seasons, some of them free.

By car Peak Niseko Car Rental in Kutchan ( nisekocarrental.com) rent out 4WDs and can deliver to your accommodation.

By bike You can rent bikes from the main train stations. Also worth a visit is Rhythm Niseko in Kutchan ( rhythmjapan.com), where you can hire everything from bikes to SUPs: they can also arrange cycling excursions.

INFORMATION

Tourist information Both Kutchan (daily 9am–6pm; 0136 22 3344) and Niseko stations (daily 9am–6pm; 0136 44 2468) have small tourist information booths where you might find English-speaking assistants. There’s also a welcome centre at the Grand Hirafu Parking Lot No. 1 (8.30am–6pm), where the bus from Kutchan terminates, but it’s only open in the winter for skiing advice.

ACCOMMODATION

Niseko’s best selection of hotels is clustered in Hirafu village. If you’re looking for somewhere more peaceful, consider the options at nearby Annupuri and Niseko Village. There are plenty of self-catering apartments and chalets; apart from those listed below, try Hokkaidō Tracks ( 0136 21 5138, hokkaidotracksaccommodation.com). Unless otherwise mentioned, all rates below are during high season in winter and include breakfast.

HIRAFU

Grand Papa グランパパ 163 Aza-Yamada 0136 23 2244, niseko-grandpapa.com. Largish, convivial pension with an alpine theme: they even offer fondue dinners and karaoke. Free pick-up and shuttle to the slopes. ¥17,000

Kimamaya by Odin ペンション気まま舎 170-248 Aza-Yamada 0136 23 2603, kimamaya.com. French expat Nicolas Gontard has created a charming, modern pension from the bones of an old minshuku, preserving the beams and cosy atmosphere. Meals are taken in the glass-sided Barn restaurant next door, which looks spectacular when lit up at night. On-site spa. ¥26,000

Ki Niseko 木ニセコ 183-43 Yamada 0136 22 2121, kiniseko.com. With ski-in, ski-out access to the slopes, this is one of the newest hotels in Niseko, offering excellent views of Yōtei-san, an on-site spa and beautiful onsen. It also hosts An Dining, a year-round restaurant serving “modern Japanese” cuisine by an award-winning chef, and one of the few places that serves three meals per day. Trails or gondola for hiking Annupuri start from behind the hotel. ¥55,000

Niseko Tabi-Tsumugi Backpackers ニセコ宿たびつむぎ・アンヌプリ 44 Asahi Kutchan 0136 22 0539, tabi-tsumugi.net/en. One of the few budget locations in the Niseko area, this peaceful hostel is close to Kutchan Station. It has a fireplace and view of Mt. Yotei from the dining room. Breakfast extra ¥700. Dorms ¥3200, private rooms ¥12,000

The Vale Niseko ザ・ヴェール・ニセコ 166-9 Yamada 0136-21-58110, nisekoalpineaccommodation.com/en. Ski-in, ski-out self-catering apartments and hotel rooms are available at this well-designed contemporary complex with a lively restaurant-bar, relaxing onsen and tiny lap pool. ¥42,000

ANNUPURI, HANAZONO AND NISEKO VILLAGE

Black Diamond Lodge ブラックダイヤモンドロッジ 24-3 Niseko Village 0136 44 1144, bdlodge.com/en. One of Niseko’s best backpacker lodges, this comfortable place has a lively restaurant and bar. They also arrange various ski tours and packages as well as equipment rental and car rental. Dorms ¥7870, tatami rooms ¥16,600

Hotel Kanro no Mori ホテル甘露の森 415 Aza-Niseko 0136 58 3800, kanronomori.com/en. A 10min walk from the Annupuri Kokusai ski lifts, and surrounded by greenery, this appealing 78-room ryokan combines Japanese- and Western-style rooms. There’s a large rotemburo, gym, and rates include two meals. ¥12400

The Lodge Moiwa 834 ロッジモイワ８３４ 447-5 Aza-Niseko 050 3171 5688, nisekohotel-dh.com. Partnered with North Face, this lodge offers “modern capsules” and ski-in, ski-out access to Moiwa Ski Resort. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price in winter only. Capsules ¥15,000

Niseko Annupuri Guest House ニセコアンヌプリゲストハウス 479-4 Aza-Niseko 0136 58 2084, annupuri-yh.com. This charming European-style log-cabin pension with a roaring fire is the most convenient youth hostel for the slopes, located at Annupuri. Closed mid-Oct to early Dec. Bike rental available (¥1000). Dorms ¥5300

Niseko Freedom Inn フリーダムイン 305-8 Asahi Kutchan www.freedom-inn.jp. This casual bed and breakfast sits in the spectacular Hanazono section of the Niseko resort, just 200 meters from the Hanazono ski lifts. There are deluxe en-suite doubles, as well as family rooms that can accommodate groups of up to six people (¥48,000). Doubles ¥30,000

EATING

All of Niseko’s hotels and pensions offer meals, but the area has such a good range of restaurants, cafés and bars that you can easily opt for a room only: in fact, it's encouraged. Note that most restaurants tend to be open predominantly in the summer and winter tourist season only. At busier times, it’s a good idea to book to eat, particularly at weekends. Check out Niseko Wine & Dine for more listings ( winedineniseko.com). The opening hours stated below are for the winter season only, unless otherwise stated.

Bang-Bang バンバン 188-24 Yamada 0136 22 4292, nisekobangbang.com/en. Set back from the main drag, this convivial restaurant specializes in local fish dishes and yakitori (over thirty different types). 5.30–11pm; closed Wed.

Graubünden グラウビュンデン 132-26 Yamada 0136 23 3371, graubunden.jp. This fantastic bakery-café is located on the way out of Hirafu towards Kutchan. They do a scrumptious selection of breakfasts, sandwiches and cakes (all for under ¥1500), with leaf tea served in tea-cosy-covered pots. 8am–10pm; closed Thurs.

Ichimura いちむら 68-4 Yamada, Kutchan-cho niseko-ichimura.jp. At this traditional soba restaurant, the owner grinds buckwheat flour every morning to craft his noodles, serving them in steaming bowls of broth alongside mountain vegetables, tempura or tender slices of duck. In summer, opt for a cold set served with chilled dipping sauce. Cash only. Daily 11am–3pm.

Kamimura 上村 Shiki Hotel, 190-4 Yamada 0136 21 2288, kamimura-niseko.com. The full white tablecloth experience from the eponymous Michelin-starred chef who brings out the best from local produce. Set menus, which may include dishes such as snow crab and avocado salad and roasted wagyu beef with puréed local potato, kick off at ¥8000. Reservations are essential. Winter Mon–Sat 6–8.30pm (last seating); check website for summer hours.

L’ocanda ロカンダ 76-12 Yamada 0136 55 8625. Family-run Italian restaurant offering delicious cakes and authentic Italian cuisine, including budget-friendly lunch sets. 11am–2pm, 6–10pm; closed Tues.

Niseko Pizza ニセコピザ 167-3 Yamada 0136 55 5553, nisekopizza.jp. Located in the basement of the J-Sekka complex, this Japanese-style Italian offers over twenty types of pizza, as well as beautifully prepared home-made pasta from ¥1500. Mon–Sun 5–11pm.

Tsubara Tsubara つばらつばら 132-14 Yamada 0136 23 1116. The soup curry at this friendly, relaxed bistro has a heat rating that runs from a bland zero to an on-fire twenty. It’s good value too, with a meal under ¥1700. 11.30am–2.30pm, Sat & Sun 6–10pm; closed Wed.

DRINKING

Bar Gyu+ ギュータス 167-21 Yamada 0136 23 1432, gyubar.com. On the right, heading downhill from the main intersection, you’ll find the entrance to this funky DJ bar as you go through a Coca-Cola vending-machine-turned door. Daily mid-Dec to March 5pm–midnight.

Niseko Brewing ニセコビール 4 Hon-dōri, Niseko 0136 55 5664, nisekobeer.co.jp. This microbrewery close to Niseko Station offers five excellent Niseko selections and lovely outdoor seating. Beer from ¥600. Daily 11.30am–10.30pm; closed Wed.

Toshiro’s Bar トシローズバー 167-3 Yamada 0136 23 3377, toshiros-bar.com. Original cocktails and over 250 bottles of liquor to choose from. Daily 5pm–1am, closed Tues.

Hakodate

函館

The first city on Hokkaidō for train travellers arriving through the Seikan Tunnel from Honshū is HAKODATE, 260km southwest of Sapporo. This attractive port was one of the first to open to foreign traders following the Japan–US amity treaty of 1854. Over the next few years, ten countries including Britain, Russia and the US established consulates in Hakodate, with both foreigners and rich Japanese building fancy wooden homes and elaborate churches on the steep hillsides. Many of these late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century buildings have been preserved, particularly in the Motomachi area, considered Hakodate’s main highlight.

Among the city’s other draws are the lively fish and fresh produce market of Asa-ichi; an outstanding exhibition on Ainu culture at the Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples; and the night view from the top of Hakodate-yama.

Hakodate-yama

函館山 • Trails May–Oct • Free • Ropeway (函館山ロープウェイ) Daily 10am–10pm, operating every 15min, Oct 16–April 24 till 9pm • ¥700 one-way, ¥1500 return • 0138 23 3105, 334.co.jp/eng • 10min uphill walk to ropeway from Jūjigai tram stop; direct buses to top of mountain from Hakodate Station (mid-April to early Nov daily 6–9pm, Sat & Sun also 1pm; 30min; ¥400); serpentine toll road open mid-April to mid-Nov, but closed to private vehicles 5–10pm

HAKODATE PORT FESTIVAL

It’s worth timing your visit to Hakodate for the Hakodate Port Festival (Aug 1–5; evenings), when the town revels in fireworks, food stalls, and a never-ending parade. The highlight is when twenty thousand people parade through town performing the “squid dance”, an entertaining and easy jig where spectators are free to join in on the fun.

Looming over Hakodate is the 334m Hakodate-yama. On a clear day, the view from the summit is spectacular, but best of all is the night-time panorama. Rated as one of Japan’s best night views, the twinkling lights of the port and the boats fishing for squid just off the coast create a magical scene. The energetic can climb to the summit along various trails, but most people opt for the ropeway (cable-car). Prepare to fight for a standing spot from sunset on.

Motomachi

元町

Heading downhill from Hakodate-yama, you’ll find yourself in Motomachi. With its Western-style, late nineteenth-century architecture, combined with the steep streets, it’s easy when you’re here to see why Hakodate is known as the San Francisco of Japan. The best thing to do is simply wander about, stopping to explore some of the churches, which are mainly free, though some ask for a suggested donation (few of the other buildings merit their entrance charges).

Churches

The most striking church in Motomachi is the white Russian Orthodox Church of 1916, a 700m walk uphill from Jūjigai tram stop, complete with green copper-clad onion domes and spires (daily 10am–5pm, Sat till 4pm, Sun 1–4pm; suggested donation ¥200). Inside, there’s an impressive icon-festooned carved-wood altarpiece, and piped Russian choral music adds to the atmosphere. Nearby, you can admire the unusual modern architecture of the Episcopal Church from the outside (not open to the public), while, slightly downhill, the Gothic-style Motomachi Roman Catholic Church (daily 10am–4pm, Sat & Sun from noon; free) is worth a look for its decoration, which is based on the Stations of the Cross.

Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples

函館市北方民族資料館, Hakodate-shi Hoppō Minzoku Shiryōkan • 21-7 Suehiro-chō • Daily 9am–5pm, April–Oct until 7pm • ¥300, or ¥720 including the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward and the Old British Consulate of Hakodate (see below) • 0138 22 4128, www.zaidan-hakodate.com/hoppominzoku

The Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples is in an old bank down Motoi-zaka, which leads away from the consulate. The museum’s superb collection of artefacts relating to the Ainu and other races across Eastern Siberia and the Alaskan islands has clear, English captioning and is well worth the entrance fee. Some of the clothes on display are astonishing – look out for the Chinese silk robe embroidered with dragons, an example of the types of items traded between China, the islanders of Sakhalin and the Ainu.

Old British Consulate of Hakodate

函館市旧イギリス領事館, Hakodate-shi Kyū Igirisu Ryōjikan • 33-14 Motomachi • Daily 9am–5pm, April–Oct until 7pm • ¥300, or ¥720 including the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward and Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples (see above) • 0138 27 8159, hakodate-kankou.com/british

In front of the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward is the small Motomachi Park, where across the street lies the Old British Consulate of Hakodate. This was where the Empire’s affairs in Hokkaidō were looked after from 1859 to 1934. The cream-and-blue building now houses a ho-hum museum, the twee Victorian Rose Tea Restaurant and a gift shop.

Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse

金森赤レンガ倉庫, 14-12 Suehirocho • Daily 9.30am–7pm • Free • 0138 27 5530, hakodate-kanemori.com/en

The seven red brick warehouses of Kanemori date back to the 19th century when they were used to store goods from the port, which opened to the outside world in 1859. Today, the warehouses retain their original look, but are now home to over 50 beer halls, shops and restaurants, which you can wander around at leisure as you stroll about the port.

Asa-ichi

朝市 • Daily 6am–noon, May–Dec from 5am • hakodate-asaichi.com

No visit to Hakodate is complete without dropping by the atmospheric but touristy Asa-ichi, the morning market immediately to the west of the train station. Even if you arrive at the relatively late hour of 9am, there’s still plenty to see at the hundreds of tightly packed stalls lining the streets. Old ladies in headscarves squat amid piles of vegetables and flowers in the central hall, and huge, alien-like red crabs, squid, sea urchin and musk melons are the local specialities. If you’re keen, line up to catch your own squid from a huge tank to then be cut up for sashimi. Be sure to sample seafood atop a bowl of ramen or rice before you leave. Some stores stay open till 3pm.

Goryōkaku

五稜郭 • 43-9 Goryōkaku-chō • Viewing tower Daily: April 21–Oct 20 8am–7pm; Oct 21–April 20 9am–6pm • ¥900 • 0138 51 4785, goryokaku-tower.co.jp • Open-air theatre Late July to mid-Aug • Check website for performance schedules and tickets • ¥1000 donation • yagaigeki.com • 10min walk north of the Goryōkaku-kōen-mae tram stop

The remains of Goryōkaku, a late nineteenth-century Western-style fort, lie some 3km northeast of the station. The star-shaped fort was built to protect Hokkaidō against attack from Russia. In the event, however, it was used by Tokugawa Yoshinobu’s naval forces in a last-ditch battle to uphold the shogun against the emperor in the short-lived civil war that ushered in the Meiji Restoration of 1869. The Emperor’s victory is celebrated each year in mid-May with a period costume parade.

What’s left of the fort today – a leafy park planted with 1600 cherry trees, the moat and outer walls – looks best 90m up, from the inelegant viewing tower by the main entrance. On weekend evenings in the summer, open-air plays about Hakodate’s history are performed enthusiastically by various amateur groups.

Yunokawa

湯の川 • 16-5 Yunokawa-chō • Yunokawa Onsen prices from ¥400 up • 0138 57 8988, hakodate-yunokawa.jp/lan/en.html • Hakodate Tropical Garden 函館市熱帯植物園 • 1-15 Yunokawa-chō • Daily: April–Oct 9.30am–6pm; Nov–March 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥300 • 0138 57 7833, hako-eco.com

While most locals head to Yachigashira for their onsen fix, Yunokawa is one of the largest in Hokkaidō, with about 17 hot spring facilities. Several hotels offer onsen in smart settings, but for a more traditional Japanese experience, try the baths at Kappo Ryokan Wakamatsu. Yunokawa’s proximity to the airport makes it a convenient stopover, if anything for a rest at the free footbath directly in front of the tram station. Surprisingly, the real draw of Yunokawa is its residential monkeys, occupying a space at Hakodate Tropical Botanical Gardens. Just like in Nagano, it is here that Japanese macaque monkeys enjoy their own onsen in winter, much to the delight of gawking spectators.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HAKODATE

By plane Hakodate’s airport ( 0138 57 8881) lies 8km east of the city; buses (¥410) take roughly 20min from there to Hakodate Station.

Destinations Kansai International (3 daily; 1hr 45min); Nagoya (3 daily; 1hr 35min); Okadama (14 daily; 40min); Okushiri (2 daily; 30min); Sapporo New Chitose (2 daily; 40min); Sapporo Ikadama (6 daily; 45min); Tokyo (11 daily; 1hr 25min).

By train The Shinkansen now connects mainland Japan with Shin-Hakodate Hokuto Station. Local and express trains then connect on to the central Hakodate Station, located on the eastern side of the harbour and where trains terminate.

Destinations Aomori (hourly; 2hr); Hachinohe (hourly; 2hr); Ōnuma-kōen (9 daily; 20min); Sapporo (15 daily; 4hr); Tokyo (10 daily; 4hr).

By bus The bus station is in front of the train station. Ask at the tourist office for reservations.

Destinations Ōnuma-kōen (3 daily; 1hr 10min); Sapporo (14 daily; 5hr 30min).

By ferry Ferries dock at Hakodate-kō Port, some 4km north of Hakodate Station. A shuttle bus runs from No. 11 bus stop to the Tsugaru Kaikyō Ferry Terminal (5 daily) for ¥310; Bus lines #101, #122 and #123 run by the terminals (¥240 or ¥260, depending on which ferry you alight from); A taxi from the port to the city centre is around ¥2000.

Destinations Aomori (8 daily; 3hr 40min); Ōma (3 daily; 1hr 30min).

Tourist information The helpful Hakodate tourist office (daily 9am–7pm, Nov–March till 5pm; 0138 23 5440, hakodate-kankou.com, hakodate.travel) is inside Hakodate Station.

GETTING AROUND

By tram There are two lines, both starting at the onsen resort of Yunokawa (湯の川), east of the city. Each runs past Goryōkaku and the train station before diverging at the Jūjigai stop in Motomachi. From here, tram #5 heads west to Hakodate Dokku-mae (函館どっく前), while tram #2 continues further south to Yachigashira (谷地頭) on the eastern side of Hakodate-yama. Trams run from about 7am–10pm.

By bus Useful buses include the shuttle bus from Hakodate Station to the Hakodate-yama ropeway and the Goryōkaku Tower; and the “LCSA (Lexa) Motomachi” bus, which operates on a continuous loop between Hakodate Station and the Bay Area/Motomachi.

Tickets One-day (¥1000) and two-day passes (¥1700) can be bought from the tourist office for unlimited use of both the trams and most city buses. These passes, only worth buying if you plan to tour extensively around town, also cover the bus service up Hakodate-yama. The ¥600 all-day tram ticket is better value; individual tram trips cost ¥210–250.

Car rental Eki Rent-a-Car ( 0138 22 7864, www.ekiren.co.jp) is next to Hakodate Station.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Hotels are busiest during the summer, when you’ll need to book ahead. Prices at most places drop considerably in winter. Many have good deals for online bookings, so it’s worth shopping around.

B&B Pension Hakodate-Mura ペンション はこだて村 16-12 Suehiro-chō 0138 22 8105, bb-hakodatemura.com. Appealing B&B just off the waterfront at the start of Motomachi, offering both Western- and Japanese-style rooms, with most sharing a common bathroom. Western breakfast is ¥840. Doubles ¥10,000

Hakodateyama Guesthouse 函館山ゲストハウス 17-5 Sumiyoshi-chō 080 4503 9044, hakog-e.cloud-line.com. This guesthouse, located at the foot of Hakodate-yama, offers a nice mix of Western and Japanese standards, with its own onsen, cosy lounge and even a record-listening space. It’s within walking distance of Yachigashira tram station and Yachigashira Onsen. Dorms ¥3000, doubles ¥8000

Hotel & Spa Resort La Vista ラビスタ函館ベイ 12-6 Toyokawa-chō 0138 23 6111, hotespa.net/hotels/lahakodate. With great views of the harbour and Hakodate-yama, Hakodate’s luxury hotel offers elegantly designed rooms and a fantastic set of rooftop baths. Good internet deals and very affordable rates out of season. ¥24,000

Pension Jyō-Kura じょう蔵 9-8 Ō-machi 0138 27 6453, j-kura.com. Despite one or two slightly twee overtones, this pension is more than compensated by very obliging owners. It has a homely common area with a wood-burning stove where breakfast is served (¥800), and a choice of Western- or Japanese-style rooms. ¥10,000

Small Town Hostel 18-25 Suehirocho smalltownhostel.hakobar.com. This impeccably designed hostel was created with a community spirit in mind, intended to be a place where people from around the world can reside together, creating the sense of a… well, small town. Most of the furniture was created from local, recycled wood. Dorms ¥3700, private rooms ¥6700

Tōyoko Inn Hakodate Eki-mae Asa-ichi 東横INN函館駅前朝市 22-7 Ōte-machi 0138 23 1045, toyoko-inn.com. Only a 2min walk from the station, this branch of the handy chain is right next to the Asa-ichi morning market. ¥5800

Hotel WBF Grande Hakodate ホテルWBFグランデ函館 24-1, Wakamatsu Cho 0138 86 9610 www.hotelwbf.com. Just five minutes on foot from JR Hakodate Station, this large hotel has a number of features that exceed your typical city centre stay, including an onsite hot spring bath, a sauna and an open-air bath. Doubles ¥6800

Uminokaze 海峡の風 1 Chome-18-15 Yunokawachō 0570 02 6573, hakodate-uminokaze.com. This elegant resort is surrounded by pristine gardens that colourfully change with the seasons. There is an enormous bathing area, with three large baths, as well as an open-air rooftop bath that overlooks the city, ocean and mountains. Half board doubles ¥12,000 per person

EATING MAP

The best places to feast on fresh seafood are the sushi and donburi restaurants in the morning market’s Donbori Yokochō or the ones scattered near Hakodate Station. Local specialities include crab (kani), squid (ika) and ramen noodles topped with seafood.

Asari Honten 阿さ利本店 10-11 Hōrai-chō 0138 23 0421. The old wooden building and tatami-floor dining rooms of this restaurant are just part of the pleasure – the rest is in the quality of the sukiyaki, their speciality dish, using meat fresh from the butcher downstairs and cooked in front of you. Lunch is a bargain at ¥1400–1600; set menus at other times start at ¥2300. Reservations recommended. 11am–9.30pm; closed Wed.

Café Tutu カフェトウトウ 13-5 Suehiro-chō 0138 27 9199. This trendy café-bar and live music space, behind one of the renovated brick warehouses by the harbour, is a quiet place to relax over gourmet coffee and cake. Mon–Wed, Fri–Sun 11.30am–9.30pm.

Daimon Yokochō 大門横丁 7-5 Matsukaze-chō. 0138 243 0033, hakodate-yatai.com. Choose from 26 yatai (stalls) serving everything from oden and sushi to ramen and yakitori. It’s an atmospheric place and a good spot to drop by for a beer and a small plate of food. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Kantaro 函太郎 25-17 Goryōkaku-chō 0138 522 5522, en.kantaro-hakodate.com. A conveyor-belt sushi restaurant chain known for their “gourmet” sushi; conveniently priced, and the fish is caught the same morning. Most plates cost ¥200–500. Daily 11am–10pm.

Lucky Pierrot ラッキーピエロ 8-11 Suehiro-chō 0138 23 2300, luckypierrot.jp. One of seventeen branches of the hamburger and curry chain, this one just west of the Jūjigai tram stop is heavily Christmas-themed. Try the Chinese chicken burger (¥350), which has been voted as “Japan’s best burger.” Daily 10am–9pm (Sat till 10pm).

Sabo Hishii 茶房 ひし伊 9-4 Hōrai-chō 0138 27 3300, hishii.info. Near the Hōrai-chō tram stop, this elegant ivy-draped 1920s wooden building houses a serene teashop and antique kimono shop, plus there’s a tatami area on the second floor. They also run the nearby Bar Shares Hishii (see below). Daily 10am–6pm.

Tachikawa Café 15-15 Benten-chō 0138 22 0340, tachikawacafe.com. Close to the Motomachi area, this nearly 200-year-old building houses an elegant café serving up artisan drinks, desserts, as well as seafood and venison fare. Wood accents and open-air seating add to the ambience. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.

Ton’etsu とん悦 22-2 Hōrai-chō 0138 22 2448, tonetsu.com. Convivial tonkatsu restaurant with tatami seating and a good range of reasonably priced set meals from ¥1200, including free coffee. Daily 11.30am–9pm.

DRINKING MAP

Goryōkaku is the city’s main drinking area, although you’ll also find several bars around the converted warehouses in Motomachi.

Bar Shares Hishii バーシェアーズヒシイ 27-1 Motomachi 0138 22 5584. Brought to you by the same owners as Hishii, this small but elegant bar is a relaxing place for an evening drink. Mon–Sat 8pm–2am.

Hakodate Beer はこだてビール 5-22 Ōte-machi 0138 23 8000, hakodate-factory.com/beer. This cavernous brewery pub/restaurant, where there’s sometimes live music, serves the local ji-biiru – sample four of their brews for ¥1340. 11am–3pm & 5–10pm; closed Wed.

DIRECTORY

Hospital Hakodate City Hospital, 1-10-1 Minato-chō ( 0138 43 2000).

Laundry Shirayuri Coin Laundry, 17-10 Omoricho, 10min walk from Hakodate Eki-Mae Station (Daily 7am–11pm).

Police The main police station is on the western side of Goryōkaku-kōen. For emergency numbers.

Post office The closest post office to the station, 7-18 Wakamatsu-chō, is open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. The Central Post Office, 1-6 Shinkawa-chō, is a 10min walk east of Hakodate Station (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm).

Ōnuma Quasi National Park

大沼国定公園, Ōnuma Kokutei Kōen

Just 29km north of Hakodate, the serene Ōnuma Quasi National Park can easily be visited in a day but is worth considering as an overnight stop. Of the park’s three lakes, the largest and most beautiful is Ōnuma, carpeted with water lilies and containing more than one hundred tiny islands, many linked by humpback bridges. The view from the lake towards the 1133m jagged peak of the dormant volcano of Komaga-take (駒ヶ岳) is one of the most breathtaking scenes in Japan.

Ōnuma is popular with tour groups, but they are usually herded into sightseeing boats, leaving the walking paths around the lake and islands quiet for strolls. Cycling is another good way of exploring; it takes just over an hour to circumnavigate the lake. Hikers can also tackle the volcano, which has two main routes, both taking around two and a half hours to complete. The Ōnuma area is scattered with numerous cafés, including on the bike path, but some of the best food can be found at nearby farm restaurants.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ŌNUMA QUASI NATIONAL PARK

By train Local trains from Hakodate to Ōnuma-kōen Station take 50min, while limited express trains take 30min.

By bus There are daily buses from Hakodate despite the train being faster (3 daily; 1hr 10min).

Tourist information Information is available from Ōnuma International Communication Plaza (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 0138 67 3020, onumakouen.com) next to the train station.

Bike rental Bikes can be rented (around ¥500/hr or ¥1000/day) from numerous shops around the station.

ACCOMMODATION

Higashi-Ōnuma Yaeijō campsite 東大沼野営場 Higashi-Ōnuma 0138 67 3477. On the eastern shore of Ōnuma Lake, with toilets, running water and firepits. A small café and bike rental are across the street. The nearest station is Chōshi-guchi, around 6km east of Ōnuma-kōen Station. Open late April–Oct. Free

Hakodate Onuma Prince Hotel 函館大沼プリンスホテル Nishi-Onuma-Onsen, Nanae-cho www.princehotels.com. This large hotel is surrounded by the lush nature of Onuma Quasi-National Park, with natural hot spring baths, a delightful restaurant and a free shuttle between the hotel and Hakodate Station. Doubles ¥10,000

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park

支笏洞爺国立公園, Shikotsu-Tōya Kokuritsu Kōen

Follow the picturesque coastal road or rail line around Uchiura Bay from Hakodate and you’ll reach the eastern side of the SHIKOTSU-TŌYA NATIONAL PARK, one of Hokkaidō’s prettiest lakeland and mountain areas. It is also the most developed, thanks to its proximity to Sapporo, some 80km to the north. Both the park’s two main caldera lakes – Tōya-ko to the west and Shikotsu-ko to the east – are active volcanoes and surrounded by excellent hiking trails. Between the two lakes lies Noboribetsu Onsen, Hokkaidō’s largest hot-spring resort, worth visiting to soak up the otherworldly landscape of bubbling and steaming Jigokudani (Hell Valley).

Tōya-ko

洞爺湖

The beautiful caldera lake of Tōya-ko is punctuated dead centre by the conical island of Nakajima. Its southern shore is home to the slightly dated-looking resort of Tōya-ko Onsen (洞爺湖温泉), where you’ll find most accommodation and local transport connections. Between late April and October, spectacular fireworks (nightly 8.45–9.05pm) illuminate the lake. Otherwise, the area has myriad shore-side areas perfect for barbecues and impromptu camping. Pretty as the location is, the best reason for visiting Tōya-ko is to see the nearby active volcano Usu-zan, around 2km south, and its steaming “parasite volcano” Shōwa Shin-zan (昭和新山).

BIRTH OF A VOLCANO

On December 28, 1943, severe earthquakes began shaking the area around Usu-zan and continued to do so until September 1945. In the intervening period, a new lava dome rose out of the ground, sometimes at the rate of 1.5m a day. By the time it had stopped growing, Shōwa Shin-zan, the “new mountain” named after the reigning emperor, stood 405m above sea level. The wartime authorities were desperate to hush up this extraordinary event for fear that the fledgling mountain would serve as a beacon for US bomber planes.

Fortunately, Shōwa Shin-zan’s daily growth was carefully documented by local postmaster and amateur volcanologist Mimatsu Masao. After the war, Mimatsu bought the land on which the mountain stood, declaring, “I purchased the volcano to continue my research uninterrupted. I did not buy it to make money. Nor did I buy it for tourists to gawk at.” His efforts were rewarded in 1958 when Shōwa Shin-zan was made a Special Natural Treasure by the government.

Nevertheless, Mimatsu never turned away tourists – but nor did he charge them admission, a practice still upheld. The Mimatsu Masao Memorial Hall (三松正夫記念館; daily 8am–5pm; ¥300), tucked behind the ghastly row of gift shops at the base of the volcano, contains an interesting collection of exhibits on the history of the fledgling volcano.

Usu-zan

有珠山 • Ropeway (有珠山ロープウェイ) daily: check website for ropeway times • ¥1600 return • 014275 2401, usuzan.hokkaido.jp/en • The ropeway station is at the end of the row of tourist shops by Shōwa Shin-zan; buses run from the bus station at Tōya-ko Onsen to Shōwa Shin-zan (4/day; 15min; ¥340 one-way)

Usu-zan remains frighteningly active; the last eruption, on March 31, 2000, coated Tōya-ko Onsen with volcanic dust and forced a three-month evacuation. To look directly into the beast, ride the ropeway to a viewing platform 300m from the crater, which also provides stunning vistas over Shōwa Shin-zan, Tōya-ko and out to sea.

Tōyako Visitor Centre and Volcanic Science Museum

洞爺湖ビジターセンター, Tōya-ko Bijitā Sentā・火山科学館, Kazan Kagaku-kan • 142-5 Tōyako Onsen • Daily 9am–5pm • Visitor centre free; museum ¥600 • 0142 75 2555, toyako-vc.jp/en • Buses for Nishiyama from Tōya-ko Onsen bus station (every 20min; 3min; ¥160 one-way)

The area damaged by the eruptions – known as the Konpira Promenade (daily mid-April to mid-Nov; free) – is nerve-shreddingly close to town. In front of it, in the Tōyako Visitor Centre building, which houses the Volcanic Science Museum, you can watch a seat-tremblingly loud film about that eruption and other explosions on the mountain. You can also take a bus to the Nishiyama Crater Promenade (西山火口散策路洞爺; daily mid-April to mid-Nov; free), a 1.3km boardwalk across the recent break in the earth’s crust that ends at an eerily abandoned elementary school.

Onsen

The best way to enjoy the positive side of volcanic activity is to take an onsen dip. In addition to the 12 free footbaths around town, most of the lakeside hotels allow day visitors – try the Tōya Sun Palace (洞爺サンパレス; 7-1 Tōya-ko Onsen; daily 10am–3pm; ¥850 weekdays, ¥1500 weekends and holidays), which features two floors with more than twenty different soaking pools, some with lake views, and a large swimming pool with artificial waves and a water slide, for which you’ll need your bathing costume. There are also nice rooftop baths at the Tōya-kohantei (daily 1–7pm for indoor view bath and 1–7pm for open-air bath; ¥800), which is closer to the bus station.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TŌYA-KO

By train Trains run to Tōya Station, on the coast, from where you can get a bus (hourly; 20min; ¥330 one-way) up the hill to Tōya-ko Onsen.

By bus There are buses to Tōya-ko Onsen from Sapporo (4 daily; 3hr). Buses pull in at the Dōnan bus station, which is just a 2min walk from the shore of Tōya-ko. From April to Oct, buses (4 daily; 15min) run from Tōya-ko Onsen to Shōwa Shin-zan.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information The tourist office (daily 9am–5pm; 0142 75 2446, laketoya.com) is in front of the bus station. Be sure to pick up some onsen-cooked eggs sold there.

Lake cruises For a cruise on the lake, hop aboard the kitsch castle-styled ferry Espoir (daily: April–Oct 8am–4.30pm, sailings every 30min; Nov–March 9am–4pm, sailings every hour; ¥1420; 0142 75 2137, toyakokisen.com). Only the summer cruises stop at Nakajima, where you can see Ezo deer grazing in the forests. There are also nightly fireworks cruises in summer (8.30pm; ¥1600).

Horeseriding You can arrange horseriding at Lake Toya Ranch ( 0142 73 2455, jphorseriding.com/toya; from ¥5550/40min) on the west side of the lake. Reservation required.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Daiwa Ryokan 大和旅館 105 Tōya-ko Onsen 0142 75 2415, yuyado-daiwa.com. A popular choice for budget travellers, this traditional ryokan offers Japanese-style breakfast and has its own onsen. Singles ¥5200, doubles ¥9200

Shōwa Shinzan Youth Hostel 昭和新山ＹＨ 103 Sōbetsu-onsen 0142 75 2283, www13.plala.or.jp/showashinzan. At the turn-off to Shōwa Shin-zan, and a 10min bus or taxi ride (¥1300) from Tōya-ko Onsen, a hostel with bunk-bed dorms, shared tatami rooms and their own onsen, plus rental bikes (¥1000/day). Breakfast and dinner extra (¥2500). Dorms ¥4000, doubles ¥8600

Windsor Hotel Tōya Resort & Spa ザ・ウィンザーホテル洞爺リゾート&スパ Shimizu Tōyako-chō 0142 73 1111, windsor-hotels.co.jp/en. If it’s unfettered luxury you’re after, head to the west side of the lake to this stylish hotel, which hosted the G8 summit in 2008. ¥40,800

EATING MAP

Cafe Lake Toya カフェ レイク トーヤ 127 Toyamachi 0142 87 2688. This stylish café, decked in wood panelling, is a great place to stop for a healthy lunch or light dinner, with baked goods and coffee also available. Wed–Sun 11am–4pm, 6pm–10pm.

Ippontei 一本亭 78 Tōya-ko Onsen 0142 75 3475, 43yg.net/ippontei. Beloved ramen shop to the locals, so be sure to get here early enough as it sometimes sells out of their speciality: black soy sauce ramen. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2pm, 6–8pm.

Sendoan 仙堂庵 144 Tōya-ko Onsen 0142 75 4111, wakasaimo.com/shop/toyakohonten. This restaurant has standard Japanese food but fantastic lake views – try the sansai-soba (mountain vegetable noodles) for ¥900. Afterwards, sample their various baked goods in the shop downstairs for dessert or takeaway presents. Daily 11am–7pm.

Noboribetsu Onsen

登別温泉

East around the coast from Tōya-ko, nestling amid lush green mountain slopes ripped through by a bubbling cauldron of volcanic activity, is NOBORIBETSU ONSEN. Hokkaidō’s top hot-spring resort may be peppered with lumpen hotel buildings and devil-themed souvenir shops, but its dramatic landscape is definitely worth seeing, and there’s ample opportunity for some serious onsen relaxation.

Jigokudani

地獄谷 • Hell Valley • A 10min walk from the bus station up Gokuraku-dōri

Noboribetsu’s main street leads up to a roadside shrine guarded by two brightly painted statues of demons. A bit further up the street, you will find the entrance to Jigokudani, a steaming, lunar-like valley created by an ancient volcanic eruption. It takes one or two hours to explore the area, wandering along wooden pathways through a landscape of rusty red rocks, streaked green and white by mineral deposits, ending up at Ōyu-numa (大湯沼), a malevolent-looking hot-water lake. Afterwards, you can soothe your feet in a natural footbath. Bring good footwear, as the paths can be slippery.

Alamy

SNOW LIGHT PATH FESTIVAL, OTARU

DISCOVERING THE AINU

For an idea of how Ainu live today, head to Nibutani (二風谷), some 50km due east of the port of Tomakomai on Route 237 – the only place in Japan where they form a majority of the community. A fascinating personal collection of Ainu artefacts is on display in the charming Kayano Shigeru Nibutani Ainu Museum (萱野茂二風谷アイヌ資料館; 61 Nibutani; April–Nov daily 9am–4.30pm; Dec–March by appointment only; 0145 72 3215; ¥400, or ¥700 with the Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum (二風谷アイヌ文化博物館; 79 Nibutani; daily 9am–4.30pm; 0145 72 2892 ¥400 or ¥700 with the Kayano Shigeru Ainu Memorial Museum), on the opposite side of the village main road, is also worth a look. To reach Nibutani, take a train south from Tomakomai to Tomikawa Station (富川), from where buses run to the village.

All the hotels draw water from Jigokudani (ten thousand tonnes are pumped out daily), and many have built elaborate baths so that guests can enjoy the water’s therapeutic benefits. The tourist offices provide a list of the baths open to the public. One exceptional facility is at Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan hotel, which has 35 indoor and outdoor baths (daily: 9am–4pm, ¥2000; 4–6pm, ¥1500).

Noboribetsu Date Jidai-mura

登別伊達時代村 • 53-1 Naka Noboribetsu-chō • Daily: April–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–March 9am–4pm • ¥2900 • 0143 83 3311, edo-trip.jp/en

If you have time, skip the village’s deplorable bear park and visit the whacky Edo-era theme park Noboribetsu Date Jidai-mura to step back in time and watch costumed oiran (top-ranked courtesans), theatre shows, ninja performances and samurai shows.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NOBORIBETSU ONSEN

By train Trains run to Noboribetsu Station from where the resort is a 12min bus ride.

By bus There are direct buses to Noboribetsu Onsen from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport (2 daily; 1hr) and Tōya-ko (2 daily; 1hr 25min). Local buses connect from Tomakomai (5 daily; 1hr 45min) and Shiraoi (5 daily; 45min) to the north, and from Muroran (15 daily; 1hr 15min) to the south.

Tourist information At the resort’s bus terminal you’ll find one of Noboribetsu’s two of tourist offices (daily 9am–5pm; 0143 84 3311, noboribetsu-spa.jp).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Rates at all the onsen hotels typically include two meals. The town makes a good place to treat yourself to the full ryokan experience, where you’re served course upon course of immaculately presented delicacies, each as beautiful to look at as to taste, before winding down and relaxing in the healing baths.

Kashoutei Hanaya 花鐘亭はなや 134 Noboribetsu Onsen-chō 0143 84 2521, kashoutei-hanaya.co.jp/en. Just below the Kōseinenkin Byōin-mae bus stop, or a 5min walk downhill from the main bus terminal, a modest-sized, modern ryokan making an excellent choice, with exquisite meals, Japanese-style rooms and a lovely rotemburo. ¥29,500

Shōkōin Kannoji Temple 観音山聖光院 119 Noboribetsu Onsen-chō 0143 84 2359, syoukouin.wixsite.com/syukubokannonji. This is one of the few budget accommodations in town, with the temple offering tatami rooms with their very own onsen. Note that no reservations are accepted, as the temple may be unable to host guests during funeral ceremonies. ¥3500

Takinoya Bekkan Tamanoyu Ryokan 滝乃家別館玉乃湯 31 Noboribetsuonsenchō www.tamanoyu.biz. This casual ryokan, not far from Lake Kuttara, offers elegant Japanese rooms with tatami mats and futon beds. There is also an onsite restaurant which serves seasonal cuisine, and guests can also enjoy both the indoor and open-air hot spring bath. Half board doubles ¥15,000 per person

EATING MAP

Pizzaria Astra 登別温泉 Noboribetsu 0705 605 7702. This surprisingly tasty pizza place, with a big world map on the wall, serves pizzas, beer, coffee and salad in a casual diner-style setting, transforming into a lively bar at night. Daily 11.30am–4pm, 8pm–1am.

Soba Dokorofukuan そば処福庵 30 Noboribetsu Onsen-chō 0143 84 2758. At Soba Dokorofukuan, you can expect the likes of delicious buckwheat noodles and set meals for under ¥1000. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 6.30–10pm.

Shikotsu-ko

支笏湖

Tourist development around the beautiful lake of Shikotsu-ko is remarkably low-key, despite this being the closest part of the park to Sapporo. At 363m, this is Japan’s second-deepest lake (after Tazawa-ko in Akita-ken), and its blue waters never freeze over. All buses stop at the tiny village of SHIKOTSU-KO ONSEN (支笏湖温泉), nestled in the woods beside the mouth of the Chitose-gawa on the east side of the lake, and mercifully free of the multistorey hotels present at Tōya-ko.

Just behind the visitor centre, the Chitose-Shikotsu-ko Ice Festival is held from the end of January to the third week of February – it’s well worth coming to see the ice sculptures and caves, which are particularly dramatic when illuminated at night.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHIKOTSU-KO

By train If you’re coming from Sapporo, take a train to Chitose (the town, not the airport; 30min, ¥1360), then take the bus from the station (4–6 daily; 45min).

By bus Daily buses run to Shikotsu-ko Onsen from New Chitose Airport (4–6 daily; 1hr, ¥930), via Chitose Station.

Tourist information The visitor centre (April–Nov daily 9am–5.30pm; Dec–March Mon & Wed–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; 0123 25 2404, shikotsukovc.sakura.ne.jp), next to the bus terminal, has displays in Japanese on the area’s nature and geology, and puts on a good slide show of the lake through the seasons – you can also pick up a free area map here or rent a bike.

GETTING AROUND AND ACTIVITIES

Bike rental Getting around the lake is best with your own transport, as there are no local buses. You can rent a bike from the visitor centre or youth hostel in Shikotsu-ko Onsen.

Boat rides The usual boat rides are available on the lake (30min; ¥1200).

Walks You can opt for a gentle, self-guided nature walk if hiking uphill isn’t your thing, lasting about 2hr, over the old red-painted railway bridge across the Chitose-gawa and along the lakeshore to the campsite at Morappu (モラップ), 7km south.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Lake Shikotsu Tsuruga Resort Spa Mizu no Uta しこつ湖鶴雅リゾートスパ水の謌 Shikotsu-ko onsen 0123 25 2211, mizunouta.com/en. A gorgeous contemporary-styled ryokan where the most expensive rooms have their own private onsen baths. Two meals included. ¥50,000

SHIKOTSU-KO HIKING ROUTES

One of the easiest trails starts at the northern end of the village and leads up Monbestu-dake (紋別岳; 866m), which takes around one hour and twenty minutes to climb. The hike up Eniwa-dake (恵庭岳; 1320m), on the north side of the lake above the Poropinai campsite, is more challenging and takes about half a day; staff at the visitors’ centre advise only climbing to the Miharashi-dai, beneath the summit, because the trail to the top can be dangerous. After this climb, you could unwind beside the lake at the foot of the mountain in the lovely rotemburo at Marukoma Onsen.

Most people, however, opt to climb Tarumae-zan (樽前山; 1041m), an active volcano (the last eruption was in 1981) south of the lake. The hike begins at the seventh “station”, three-quarters of the way up the volcano at the end of a dirt road; the easiest way of reaching the start is to hitch a ride from Shikotsu-ko. The walk from the seventh station up to the summit shouldn’t take more than an hour. At the top, the pungent aroma from the steaming crater discourages lingering. Following the northwest trail down from Tarumae-zan towards the lake leads, after a couple of hours, to the moss-covered gorge of Koke-no-dōmon (苔の洞門); sadly, erosion at this site means that you’ll only be able to view the soft green velvet rock walls from a distance. From here it’s a 14km hike back to Shikotsu-ko Onsen.

Log Bear ログベアー Shikotsu-ko onsen 0123 25 2738, logbear.moto-nari.com/shikotsu. This charming log cabin and coffee house amid the tourist shops next to the bus terminal is a cosy budget option, where the owner speaks English. All rooms have shared bathrooms, and the rate includes breakfast. ¥15,000

Marukoma Onsen 丸駒温泉 7 Poropinai 0123 25 2341, marukoma.co.jp. On the west side of the lake is this plush ryokan with wonderful rotemburo (open to non-residents daily 10am–3pm; ¥1000) and stunning views across Shikotsu-ko to Tarumae-zan. Rates include two meals. ¥34,000

Morappu Campsite モラップキャンプ場 Morappu 0123 25 2201, qkamura.or.jp/shikotsu/camp. About 7km south of Shikotsu-ko Onsen, the largest campsite on the lake and attractively located. Late April to mid-Oct. Per person ¥1000

Shikotsu-ko Youth Hostel 支笏湖ユースホステル Shikotsu-ko onsen 0123 25 2311, logbear.moto-nari.com/syh. This youth hostel has reasonable bunk-bed and tatami rooms and friendly management; they offer bike rental, too. Breakfast and dinner ¥2050 extra. ¥3900

Asahikawa

旭川

Mainly a place for business and shopping, ASAHIKAWA, 136km northeast of Sapporo, straddles the confluence of the Ishikari, Biei, Chubetsu and Ushibetsu rivers, surrounded by mountains. It’s the access point for the Daisetsu-zan National Park, some 40km east, and worth considering as a base for park activities or, in winter, the various nearby ski slopes, including Furano. Asahikawa’s February Winter Festival is almost as impressive as Sapporo’s Yuki Matsuri.

Asahiyama Zoo

旭山動物園, Asahiyama Dōbutsuen • Higashi Asahikawa-chō Kuranuma • Daily: late April–Oct 9.30am–5.15pm; Nov to mid-April 10.30am–3.30pm • ¥820 • 0166 36 1104, city.asahikawa.hokkaido.jp/asahiyamazoo • Buses leave from stop 6 in front of the JR station (40min; ¥440)

Most locals will recommend that you visit Asahiyama Zoo, about 10km east of the city centre. The penguins, polar bears, seals, amur leopards and others that live here appear well cared for at what, thanks to skilful marketing, is Japan’s most popular zoo. A “Night Zoo” takes places for one week in August.

Otokoyama Sake Brewery and Museum

男山酒造り資料舘 • 7 Chome-1-33 Nagayama 2 Jo • 9am–5pm • Free • 0166 47 7080, wwww.otokoyama.com

This traditional brewery showcases Otokoyama’s 350-year sake producing history. You can discover how sake is made in their interactive museum, where tools and ingredients are displayed, with a video you can watch in English. Finish with a free tasting before browsing all the bottles for sale in their shop.

ASAHIKAWA’S SAKE BREWERIES

The pure waters flowing off Daisetsu-zan are one reason that Asahikawa has long had a flourishing sake industry. To sample some of the local product, head to the Takasago Sake Brewery (高砂酒造; Miyashita-dōri 17-chōme; daily 9am–5.30pm; 0166 23 2251, takasagoshuzo.com), set in a traditional wooden building around ten minutes’ walk east of Asahikawa Station. They’ve been making sake here since 1899, and from late January to early March they have a tradition of building an ice dome in which some of their sakes are fermented. If you have more time, head 6km north of the city centre to the Otokoyama Sake Brewery and Museum (男山酒造り資料館; 2-7 Nagayama; daily 9am–5pm; 0166 47 7080, otokoyama.com), where there’s a fascinating history of Otokoyama sake told through ukiyo-e woodblock prints, and you can also taste the highly rated rice wines for free. Buses #67, #70, #71, #630, #667 and #669 from platform 18 in front of the JR station will get you here.

ASAHIKAWA’S WINTER FESTIVAL

The spectacular Winter Festival takes place over five days in the second week of February. The giant stage for the festival’s opening and closing events once held a world record for the largest snow sculpture. The festival’s many other snow and ice sculptures are displayed in Tokiwa-kōen, a 15min walk north of the station, and along pedestrianised Shōwa-dōri, among other places.

Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Hall

川村カ子トアイヌ記念館 • Hokumon-chō 11 chōme • Daily 9am–5pm; 0166 51 2461, k-aynu-mh.jp • ¥500 • Buses #24 and #23 run to the hall from platform 14 in front of the JR station

Asahikawa was once a major Ainu settlement. There’s a modest collection of Ainu-related artefacts on display at the Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Hall, which celebrates the Ainu chief Kaneto who worked as a surveyor with Hokkaidō’s railways. Occasionally, Ainu dance performances and events take place – call ahead to check. The Ainu Kotan Matsuri (アイヌコタン祭), an Ainu festival, is held each September, beside the Ishikari-gawa, around 10km south of Asahikawa.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ASAHIKAWA

By plane Asahikawa Airport ( 0166 83 3939, aapb.co.jp/en) is 18km to the east of the city, towards Biei; buses head into town from here (8 daily; 40min).

Destinations Kansai International (daily; 2hr); Nagoya (daily; 1hr 50min); Tokyo Haneda (7 daily; 1hr 45min).

By train Trains arrive at the JR station, at the southern end of Heiwa-dōri, the city’s main shopping street.

Destinations Abashiri (4 daily; 3hr 45min); Furano (15 daily in summer, 12 in winter; 1hr 10min); Sapporo (30 daily; 1hr 30min); Wakkanai (3 daily; 4hr).

By bus Buses leave from in front of the train station.

Destinations Asahi-dake Onsen (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Furano (8 daily; 2hr); Kushiro via Akan-ko (2 daily; 6hr 30min); Sapporo (every 20–40min; 2hr); Sōunkyō Onsen (7 daily; 1hr 50min).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Asahikawa’s main tourist attractions are spread out, and getting to them by public transport involves shuttling from the city centre on a variety of buses, all leaving from around the JR station.

INFORMATION

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist office (daily 8.30am–7pm, from 9am in winter; 0166 26 6665, www.asahikawa-daisetsu.jp) inside the train station, to the right as you exit the ticket barrier. Bike rental available for ¥500 or ¥1000 depending on the type of bike.

ACCOMMODATION

Art Hotel Asahikawa ロワジールホテル旭川 6-7 Jo-dōri 0166 25 8811, art-asahikawa.com. Near the station, with good online discounts, this classy hotel has a spa/gym in the basement. ¥5600

Guest House Asahikawa Ride ゲストハウス旭川 31-10-7, 6 Jo-dōri 2nd floor 0166 73 8269, www.asahikawaride.com asahikawa.jp. Super-friendly hosts at a clean hostel about a 15min walk from the train station. Dorm ¥3000

Tōyoko Inn Asahikawa Ekimae Miyashita-dōri 東横INN旭川駅前宮下通 11-176, Miyashita-dōri 0166 25 2045, toyoko-inn.com. This branch of the Tōyoko Inn is a few blocks east of the station, and marginally cheaper than the other branch in town. Breakfast included. ¥8500

EATING AND DRINKING

There are plenty of places to eat around Heiwa-dōri and, one block west, the Sanroku entertainment district, where you’ll find lively izakaya and sushi bars.

Baikohken 梅光軒 8-chōme, 2-jo-dōri 0166 24 4575, baikohken.com. Asahikawa is renowned for its shōyu-style ramen: sample it at this basement restaurant a few blocks down from the station, where a large bowl will set you back about ¥1100. Daily 11am–8.30pm.

Coffee Stand Container コーヒー・スタンド・コンテナ 8-chōme, 38-19-7-jo-dōri bit.ly/coffee-stand-container. An artsy coffee shop with comfy sofas, serving exceptional lattes and muffins. The friendly owner and barista Hiroki speaks a little English. Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–7pm.

Hachiya ラーメンの蜂屋 7 chōme, 5-jo-dōri 0166 23 3343. One of several good ramen shops on the atmospheric alleyway Furariito (ふらりーと), a 10min walk from the station. You’ll get a large bowl of ramen for less than ¥1000. Daily 11am–11pm.

Machibar マチバル Heiwa-dōri, 8 chōme, 2-jo-dōri 0166 23 5977, momendoki.co.jp/machibar. This stylish café-bar runs over two floors and serves okay pasta, pizza and gratin for about ¥1000. Fresh fruit cocktails are around ¥850. Daily 11.30am–midnight, Fri and Sat till 1am.

Taisetsu Ji Beer 大雪地ビール館 11-1604 Miyashita-dōri 0166 25 0400, ji-beer.com. Asahikawa has a couple of gaijin bars, but they’re lacklustre; instead, sample the local beer here, a couple of blocks east of the JR station along Miyashita-dōri in a beautiful red-brick complex. The food menu includes a jingisukan lunch for ¥1200 and hamburgers for ¥890. Daily 11.30am–10pm.

Daisetsu-zan National Park

大雪山国立公園, Daisetsuzan Kokuritsukōen

The 2268-square-kilometre Daisetsu-zan National Park, Hokkaidō’s largest, offers a spectacular range of gorges, hot springs and mountains – including Asahi-dake, the island’s tallest peak – crisscrossed by hiking trails which could keep you happily occupied for days. Tourism in the park is generally low-key, especially at the wooded and remote Asahi-dake Onsen. Sōunkyō Onsen, on the northeast edge of the park, hosts the bulk of tourists, though a tasteful redevelopment has made it much more attractive than most hot-spring resorts. The highlight here is the gorge, a 20km corridor of jagged cliffs, 150m high in places. In July, the mountain slopes are covered with alpine flowers, while September and October see the landscape painted in vivid autumnal colours; these are the best months for hiking. During the winter, both Asahi-dake and Kuro-dake in Sōunkyō are popular skiing spots, enjoying one of the longest ski seasons in Japan (usually Oct–June).

Asahi-dake Onsen

旭岳温泉

Quiet and uncommercialized, ASAHI-DAKE ONSEN is little more than a handful of hotels and pensions dotted along a road that snakes up to the cable-car station, from where hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter are whisked to within striking distance of the 2291m summit of Asahi-dake (旭岳). The area’s remoteness means that it remains a delightful and relatively little-visited destination. Cross-country skiers in particular will appreciate the kilometres of groomed trails, some of the best in Japan, which wind through beautiful forests of white birch and Hokkaidō spruce.

Asahi-dake

旭岳 • Ropeway daily: check the website for detailed running times, as they vary greatly by month • High season one-way ¥1800, return ¥2900; low season one-way ¥1300, return ¥1900 • 0166 68 9111, asahidake.hokkaido.jp/en

It’s a fifteen-minute ropeway (cable-car) ride to Asahi-dake’s top station, worth visiting for its ethereal landscape of steaming pools and rocky outcrops, even if you’re not planning to hike to the top of Asahi-dake. There’s a 2km strolling course from the ropeway station which takes around an hour. Food and refreshments are available at the cable-car station at the top. You can also walk to the top station; this may be necessary as the weather on Asahi-dake is temperamental and the cable-car doesn’t operate during strong winds.

Asahi-dake’s peak is an arduous ninety-minute to two-hour slog over slippery volcanic rock from the ropeway station, but the view from the summit is well worth the effort. From here you can hike across to Sōunkyō.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ASAHI-DAKE ONSEN

By bus Buses run from Asahikawa Station (platform 10) to Asahi-dake Onsen (3 daily; 1hr 30min); check with the tourist office at Asahikawa Station for the timetable. The same bus leaves from Asahikawa Airport (50min).

Tourist information Near the ropeway station, the tourist office (daily: 9am–5pm; 0166 97 2153, welcome-higashikawa.jp) has nature displays (all in Japanese), information on weather conditions on the mountain, and hiking maps.

ACCOMMODATION

Asahi-dake Seishōnen Yaeijō Camp Area 旭岳青少年野営場 Yukomanbetsu 0166 97 2544. Daisetsu-zan’s campsite is open June 20–Sept 20. Per person ¥500

Hotel Bearmonte ホテルベアモンテ Asahi-dake Onsen 0166 97 2325, bearmonte.jp. These upmarket but unremarkable lodgings, opposite the visitor centre, offer mainly Western-style rooms. In its favour are the nicely designed onsen baths, including rotemburo, and a small gym. Rates include breakfast. ¥12,600

Daisetsuzan Shirakaba-sō Hotel and Youth Hostel 大雪山白樺荘 Asahi-dake Onsen 0166 97 2246, shirakabasou-asahidake.com. There’s both hotel and hostel-style lodgings at this lovely wooden building, opposite the campsite bus stop and next to a running stream; the attached log house has a convivial communal lounge and there’s a rotemburo (¥500 for non-guests). The food is excellent (¥2020 surcharge for dinner and breakfast), and the hostel staff can provide all you need to climb Asahi-dake, including a bell to warn off bears. Dorms ¥7890

La Vista Daisetsuzan ラビスタ大雪山 Asahi-dake Onsen 0166 97 2323, hotespa.net/hotels/daisetsuzan. In the style of a large alpine chalet, the resort’s newest hotel offers pleasant, spacious accommodation, lovely views and well-designed onsen baths. Free pick-up service from Asahikawa Airport available (3 days in advance). ¥30,000

Lodge Nutapu-Kaushipe ロッジヌタプカウシペ Asahi-dake Onsen 0166 97 2150. Next to the youth hostel (see above) and equally appealing is this attractive wooden cabin with six comfortable, Japanese-style rooms – all non-smoking. Two meals are included. Cash only. Bookings should be made by phone. ¥16,000

Sōunkyō Onsen

層雲峡温泉

On the northeastern edge of Daisetsu-zan, 70km east of Asahikawa, is SŌUNKYŌ ONSEN, the park’s main resort and an ideal base for viewing the astonishing Sōunkyō gorge, its jagged rock walls carved out by the Ishikari-gawa.

The village’s main street is lined with small hotels, shops and a large bathing complex, Kurodake-no-yu (黒岳の湯; daily 10am–9pm, Nov–April closed Wed; ¥600; sounkyo.com/kurodakenoyu.html). From January to the middle of March, it’s also possible to enjoy the Hyōbaku Matsuri (Ice Waterfall Festival; ¥500), a park of giant ice sculptures which are lit spectacularly every night from 5pm to 10pm. Ice mazes, snow tubing and fireworks provide plenty of entertainment.

HIKING ACROSS THE PARK

You can start the Daisetsu-zan hike across the park’s central mountain range either from the top of the ropeway (cable-car) at Asahi-dake Onsen or from Sōunkyō Onsen where there’s also a ropeway ( 0165 85 3031, rinyu.co.jp; one-way/return ¥1400/2400), followed by a chairlift (one-way/return ¥600/800) up to within one hour’s hike of the 1984m Kuro-dake (Black Mountain); check the website for running times, which vary month by month. From the summit, capped by a small shrine and giving marvellous views of the park, there’s a choice of two trails to Asahi-dake – the southern route via Hokkai-dake (2149m) is the more scenic.

By the time you reach Asahi-dake’s summit, you’ll have spent around six hours walking, so returning on foot to Sōunkyō Onsen the same day is only possible if you set out at the crack of dawn. There are overnight huts on the mountain, but the more comfortable option is to continue down to Asahi-dake Onsen and rest there for the night. If you don’t want to backtrack for your luggage, consider having it sent on by takkyūbin. Make sure you’re well prepared for the hike with food, topographical maps, and bells to scare away the odd bear, even though they’re not that common.

Sōunkyō gorge

層雲峡, Sōunkyō

About 3km east of the resort lies Sōunkyō gorge, with the Ginga (“Milky Way”) and Ryūsei (“Shooting Star”) waterfalls. A twenty-minute climb up the opposite hill will lead to a viewpoint from where you’ll get a fabulous view of the two cascades of white water tumbling down the cliffs. Continuing along the road for another 5km, you’ll eventually arrive at Ōbako (“Big Box”), a touristy spot where visitors line up to be photographed in front of the river that gushes through the narrow gap in the perpendicular cliffs. It’s possible to rent a bike from Northern Lodge and follow the main highway to the sites.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SŌUNKYŌ ONSEN

By train The nearest train station to Sōunkyō Onsen is Kamikawa (上川), 20km north; buses (¥870) take 30min from here to reach the resort.

By bus Some buses passing through Kamikawa and on to Sōunkyō originate in Asahikawa (7 daily; 1hr 50min); some also go on to Akan Kohan. See dohokubus.com for the schedule.

Tourist information There’s a small tourist office (daily 10am–5.30pm; 0165 85 3350, sounkyo.net/english) in the bus terminal building, while the Sōunkyō Visitor Centre next to the cable-car station (daily June–Oct 8am–5.30pm; Nov–May 9am–5pm; 0165 89 4400) has excellent nature displays with multilingual exhibit guides and English-speakers.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Beer Grill Canyon ビアグリル・キャニオン 0165 85 3361, bg-canyon.com. In the same complex as Kurodake-no-yu, this place serves tasty thin-crust pizza, regional vegetables, pasta and creative dishes such as Ezo venison stroganoff (¥1500). Daily 11.30am–3.30pm & 5.30–8.30pm; Nov–April closed Wed.

Northern Lodge ホテル・ノーザンロッジ 0165 85 3231, h-northernlodge.com. If you crave a bit of luxury, this is a good choice, offering both tatami and Western-style rooms, with two meals included and their own onsen. Bikes are available to rent for ¥1000 per day. ¥20,000

Sōunkyō Auto Camping Ground 層雲峡オートキャンプ場 0165 85 3368. Located 6km west of Sōunkyō, this campsite offers tent spots and rentable bungalows. Coin-operated showers and washing machine/dryers are also on site. Closed Oct–May. Campsite ¥500, car ¥500, bungalow 2–3 people ¥3000, 4–6 people ¥4000

Sōunkyō Youth Hostel 層雲峡ＹＨ 0165 85 3418, sounkyo-hostel.com. A budget hostel 10min walk uphill from the bus terminal, near the Prince Hotel. Dorms have bunk-beds, meals are served in a rustic lounge area (there’s a ¥1750 surcharge for dinner and breakfast) and you can get information – mainly in Japanese – on hiking in the park. Closed Nov–May. Dorms ¥1500, doubles ¥9000

Furano and around

富良野

Surrounded by beautiful countryside, FURANO is famous in Japan as the location of a popular soap opera Kita no Kuni Kara (From the Northern Country), about a Tokyo family adapting to life in Hokkaidō. The landscape evokes Provençal France, with bales of hay lying around and lone poplars etched against the peaks of Daisetsu-zan National Park. The busiest season is June and July, when vast fields of lavender and other flowers bloom, drawing visitors to the gently undulating countryside – ideal for walks, cycling and photography; the most scenic farmlands surround the tranquil settlements of Kami-Furano (上富良野), Biei (美瑛) and Bibaushi (美馬牛), each with its own train station. Most visitors head to the specific farms of Tomita (ファーム富田) or FlowerLand Kamifurano (フラワーランドかみふらの), known for their stripes of flowers, where the local farmer will drive you between the neat rows in a cart pulled by a tractor.

FURANO CULTURAL PERFORMANCES

The local tourism office is working hard to ensure that the Japanese character and charm of the Furano area aren’t lost or overlooked by visiting gaijin. During the ski season, a free cultural performance is held every Sunday night at the restaurant at the Kitanomine gondola station. This includes a presentation of the town’s “belly button dance”, the highlight of Furano’s Heso Matsuri (Navel Festival), held every July 28–29 and celebrating the town’s position at the centre of Hokkaidō.

FERTILE FURANO

It’s not just flowers that thrive in Furano’s fertile soil. The area is also known for its melons, potatoes, onions, milk and grapes. At Furano Winery (ふらのワイン; Shimizuyama; daily 9am–5pm; free; 0167 22 3242, furanowine.jp), around 4km northwest of Furano Station, you can sip from a range of over twenty different wines; some of them are quite delicious. The obvious accompaniment is cheese, which can be sampled at the Furano Cheese Factory (富良野チーズ工房; Nakagoku; daily 9am–5pm, Nov–March till 4pm; free; 0167 23 1156, furano-cheese.jp), about 1km east of the New Furano Prince Hotel (see below). Apart from selling concoctions such as a brie turned black with squid ink, this fun facility also allows you to practise milking a fake cow (¥100) and sign up for bread-, butter-, cheese- and ice-cream-making workshops (¥900–1000): ring ahead or email to book.

Biei makes for a pleasant side-trip because of its improbably blue pond, Aoiike (青い池), which once featured as a stock wallpaper for Apple. It’s accessible via a bus from Biei Station (5 daily; 20min; ¥540; free admission).

In winter, Furano is a centre for skiing. Other places to head to are Kami-Furano where the Goto Sumio Museum of Art (後藤純男美術館; Higashi 4-sen Kita 26-go; daily 9am–5pm, Nov–March till 4pm; ¥1100; gotosumiomuseum.com) contains dreamy landscape paintings from one of Japan’s major contemporary artists, and Furano’s wine and cheese factories. Furano and the outlying towns in the area can also be used as a base for a hike up the 2077m active volcano of Tokachi-dake, some 20km southwest and within the Daisetsu-zan National Park.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION FURANO AND AROUND

By train In summer, and sometimes in winter, there are direct trains from Sapporo (2 daily; 2hr; ¥4500), but usually the fastest way is by limited express to Takikawa then change to the local train along the Furano line. From Asahikawa, the train (hourly; 1hr 10min; around ¥4000) passes through Biei, Bibaushi and Kami-Furano.

By bus Furano is connected by direct Chuo bus with Sapporo (around 2hr 30min; ¥2260); if you’re coming to ski, ask to be dropped at Kitanomine-iriguchi (the hub of the ski village), rather than getting off in the centre of town. The Lavender Bus also runs from Asahikawa Station via the airport, Furano train station, and various other stations en route, to the New Furano Prince Hotel (8 daily; 2hr); a taxi to the hotel from Furano Station costs around ¥2500.

Tourist information The Furano tourist office (daily 9am–6pm; 0167 23 3388, furanotourism.com/en) has operations next to Furano Station and at the Kitanomine gondola station.

ACCOMMODATION

If you’ve come to ski, it’s most convenient to stay in either the Prince hotels or at Kitanomine village, from where you can walk to the lifts. Furano town itself isn’t too far away and is connected to the slopes by regular buses. In summer, the countryside around Bibaushi and Biei draws visitors with its displays of lavender, tulips, iris, cosmos and sunflowers, among others.

Alpine Backpackers アルパインバックパッカーズ 14-6 Kitanomine-chō 0167 22 1311, alpn.co.jp. A 5min walk from the Kitanomine ski lifts, this great lodge has bunk-bed dorms and twins, a kitchen, a bakery-café, and young, enthusiastic staff. They also organize balloon trips year-round, plus fishing and adventure sports such as rafting, mountain biking and horseriding in summer. Breakfast extra (¥800). Dorms ¥2800, twins ¥5600

Bibaushi Liberty Youth Hostel 美馬牛リバティＹＨ Bibaushi-shigaichi 0166 95 2141, bibaushi.jp. Next to the Bibaushi JR station, a stylish hostel offering comfy bunk-bed dorms and private rooms; excellent, inexpensive meals are also available. Dorms ¥4700, twins ¥11,400

Furano Fresh Powder フレッシュパウダー・アパートメント 14-26 Kitanomine-chō 0167 23 4738, freshpowder.com. Six well-equipped self-catering units opposite the Kitanomine ski slopes, and sleeping between four and eight people. Five- to seven-day minimum during ski season. ¥32,000

Natulux Hotel ナチュラクスホテル 1-35 Asahi-chō 0167 22 1777, natulux.com. Next to Furano Station, this tasteful boutique property sports a minimalist design contrasting concrete walls with black or brown wooden fixtures. The English-speaking management are very obliging and guests can use the neighbouring sports complex with swimming pool for free. ¥28,000

New Furano Prince Hotel 新富良野プリンスホテル Nakagoryō 0167 22 1111, princehotels.co.jp/newfurano. A few kilometres south of Kitanomine village, a 400-bed oval-shaped tower block that’s a world unto itself, featuring everything from several restaurants and bars, ski rental and a coin laundry, to a sophisticated onsen (guests/non-guests ¥800/¥1540) and a twee log-cabin shopping village. Families will love their Snow Land winter amusement park. In winter there are package deals with meals and ski-lift tickets. The Prince group has a second smaller hotel in Furano that’s mainly used by groups. ¥22,000

Phytoncide Mori no Kaori フィトンチッド森の香り 17-2 Kitanomine-chō 0167 39 1551, phytoncide-morinokaori.hotelshokkaido.com/en. One of Furano’s most original accommodation options. The charming owners, who bake their own bread and serve foods grown on their organic farm, have an amazing collection of antique cash registers. Each of the six Western-style rooms has its own bathroom, and one is wheelchair-accessible. Rates include breakfast. ¥30,700

EATING AND DRINKING

Furano Brewery Yama no Doxon 山の独尊 20-29 Kitanomine-chō 0167 22 5599 doxon.jp/group.html. A rustic microbrewery where they make their own very palatable beers, sausages, smoked meats and curries. Sat–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm, Mon–Fri 5–10pm.

Kuma Gera くまげら 3-22 Hinode-machi 0167 39 2345, www.furano.ne.jp/kumagera. A lively place in the midst of Furano town where they serve the meat-laden sanzoku nabe (bandits’ stew), full of duck, venison and chicken – a pot for two costs ¥3400. Daily 11.30am–10pm, closed Wed.

Soh’s Bar ソーズ・バー Nakagoryo 0167 22 1111, princehotels.co.jp/newfurano/restaurant/shos_bar. A good place for a nightcap, in a log-and-stone cabin in the forest near the New Furano Prince Hotel (see above), where you can admire the collection of cigarette packets. On the way there, you can go gift shopping in the attractive log-house complex, Ningle Terrace. Daily 7pm–midnight.

Yuigadokuson 唯我独尊 11-8 Hinode-machi 0167 23 4784, doxon.jp. This local favourite is in a rustic cabin set back from the main street and is popular for its amazing curry and home-made venison sausages (¥1150). Tues–Sun 11am–9pm.

Wakkanai

稚内

The windswept port of WAKKANAI, 320km from Sapporo and near the northern tip of Hokkaidō, is the gateway to the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park and, in particular, the lovely islands of Rebun-tō and Rishiri-tō. There’s little reason to linger in town apart from shopping for sports clothing, but there are a few places of minor interest, should you find yourself killing time waiting for a ferry. One reason for heading here out of season is to attend the Japan Cup National Dogsled Races, held during the last weekend of February.

A five-minute stroll from Wakkanai Station is the North Breakwater Dome, a 427m-long arched corridor supported by seventy concrete pillars, inspired by the arches of Rome’s Colosseum. For a longer walk (around 1hr, round-trip), head west of the train station to Wakkanai-kōen (稚内公園), a grassy park from where, on a clear day, you can see the island of Sakhalin, some 60km northwest; it’s now part of Russia, but before World War II it was occupied by the Japanese. Closer to the port, squid boats linger around in August.

Wakkanai is the access point for the desolate cape Sōya Misaki (宗谷岬), 32km east of Wakkanai and the northernmost point of Japan (7 buses daily; 55min; ¥2560 return). A couple of monuments, including “Tower of Prayer”, a memorial to the Korean Airlines plane shot down by the Soviet Union just north of the cape, mark this dull spot.

THE RUSSIAN CONNECTION

There’s a monument in Wakkanai-kōen to nine female telephone operators who committed suicide in Sakhalin’s post office at the end of World War II, rather than be captured by the Russians. Russo-Japanese relations are now much improved, and traces of Wakkanai’s now defunct ferry connection with Russia remain in the tourist signs and in the stacking dolls in shops.

ARRIVAL, DEPARTURE AND INFORMATION WAKKANAI

By plane A bus from Wakkanai’s airport ( 0162 27 2121, wkj-airport.jp), 10km east of the port, costs ¥600 for the 30min journey, and a taxi for around ¥400.

Destinations Sapporo (2 daily; 55min); Tokyo (2 daily; 1hr 55min).

By train Wakkanai Station (the northernmost train station on Hokkaidō) is close to both the ferry terminal and the new combined bus terminal and cinema.

Destinations Asahikawa (3 daily; 4hr); Sapporo (3 daily; 5hr 30min).

By bus There are buses to/from Sapporo, including one overnight (7 daily; 6–7hr).

By ferry Wakkanai is the jumping-off point for the islands of Rebun-tō and Rishiri-tō.

Destinations Rebun-tō (2–4 daily; 1hr 40min); Rishiri-tō (2–4 daily; 1hr 45min).

Tourist information Inside the train station is a helpful tourist office (daily 10am–6pm; 0162 22 2384, welcome.wakkanai.hokkaido.jp).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

A 15min walk south of the JR station in the Edo-style market at Wakkanai Fukukō Ichiba (稚内副港市場 1-6-28 Minato; 10am–10pm), and you can combine a seafood or Russian meal at several inexpensive restaurants with a dip (¥650 plus ¥150 for towels) in the spacious onsen baths of Minato no Yu (港のゆ).

Dormy Inn Wakkanai ドーミーイン稚内 Chūō 2-7-13 0162 24 5489, hotespa.net/hotels/wakkanai. A few minutes’ walk from the station, this budget hotel offers a good seafood breakfast buffet and onsen with harbour view. ¥10,000

Rupan るぱん 2 Chome-2-6 Daikoku, 0162 22 2275. This casual izakaya, tucked away from the road, serves small dishes of seafood, meat and vegetables (from ¥300) cooked a variety of ways. Mon–Sat 5–11.30pm.

Surfeel Hotel Wakkanai サフィールホテル稚内 1-2-2 Kaiun 0162 23 8111, surfeel-wakkanai.com/en. One of the most luxurious options in Wakkanai, directly in front of the ferry terminal. Prices here drop dramatically in the off-season. ¥9000

Takechan 竹ちゃん Chūō 2-8 0162 22 7130, take-chan.co.jp. Be sure to sample some seafood while you’re in town; this place is particularly convivial, specializing in good-value sushi sets (from ¥1500) and individual nigiri sushi (from ¥150 per piece). Daily 5pm–9.30pm.

Wakkanai Moshiripa Youth Hostel 稚内モシリパユースホステル Chūō 2-9-5 0162 24 0180, moshiripa.com. This cute youth hostel is a 5min walk north from the train station and east of the ferry terminal; guests must check in before 8pm. Lots of space to relax and enjoy a beer. Usually closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Dorms ¥3800

Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park

利尻礼文サロベツ国立公園, Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu Kokuritsu Kōen

Off the northern tip of Hokkaidō, the two islands that make up the bulk of the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park are quite different: slender Rebun-tō is low-lying, its gentle hills sprinkled with alpine flowers, while Rishiri-tō is a Fuji-like volcano rising from the sea. Offering lush scenery and mild weather, both islands are exceptionally popular with Japanese tourists from June to September, when accommodation should be booked well in advance. At other times you’re likely to have the islands to yourself, although they pretty much close down entirely between November and March. In order to get the most out of a stay here it’s worth scheduling a couple of nights on each island.

Rishiri-tō

利尻島

Most people come to RISHIRI-TŌ to hike up the central 1721m volcano Rishiri-zan (利尻山). The island is sometimes called Rishiri-Fuji because its shape is said to resemble the famous southern volcano; in reality, it’s spikier and a lot less symmetrical. Even if the weather is unpromising, it’s still worth making the ascent (which takes 10–12hr) to break through the clouds on the upper slopes and be rewarded with panoramic views from the summit, which is crowned with a small shrine.

The most straightforward ascent of Rishiri-zan starts some 4km south of the main port of Oshidomari (鴛泊), at the Rishiri Hokuroku Forest Park Campsite. Information and maps for the climb are available from the island’s tourist office (see below). Around fifteen minutes’ climb from the peak of Chōkan-zan (長官山), the eighth station up the volcano, there’s a basic hut where you can take shelter en route in an emergency. Take plenty of water, as there’s none available on the mountain. Be careful of the loose rock near the summit.

The island provides a mostly vehicle-free road to circumnavigate the island at 60.2km, 20km of it exclusively for bikes. It takes about six hours at a leisurely pace, with ample opportunities to enjoy short breaks at scenic outlooks and quaint fishing villages.

As the island is famous for its konbu (seaweed) and uni (sea urchin), stop by Kami Coast Park (神居海岸パーク; June to Sept daily 9am-4pm; 090 6994 2255; ¥1500). Here you can catch and open your own uni to eat, as well as gather your own konbu to package up for a unique souvenir.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE RISHIRI-TŌ

By plane There’s a daily flight to Rishiri-tō from New Chitose and Okadama; the airport ( 0163 82 1269) is a few kilometres west of Oshidomari.

By ferry Most visitors come by ferry from Wakkanai to Oshidomari (1hr 40min); from mid-April to Oct there are three or four services daily, dropping to two during Nov–March. Unless your tickets are arranged through a tour company, ferry tickets can only be purchased on the day of travel.

INFORMATION

Tourist information The tourist office (daily 8am–6.30pm, earlier in the off season; 0163 82 2201, www.town.rishiri.hokkaido.jp), inside the ferry terminal at Oshidomari, has maps and English notes on the hikes to Rishiri-zan and Himenuma.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Five to six buses per day run in both directions around the island (a circuit which takes 1hr 55min; whole circuit ¥2260. If you arrive by ferry at Kutsugata on the western side of Rishiri, you’ll need to get a bus north to Oshidomari (30min; ¥750).

Bus tours If time is limited, consider taking one of the three daily bus tours (¥3100–4000), which cover all the scenic highlights and are timed to connect with the ferries; details from the tourist office.

By bike Bicycles are a good way to get around and can be rented from near the ferry terminal for around ¥2000 a day.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Island Inn Rishiri アイランド·イン·リシリ Kutsugata 0163 84 3002, rishirihotel.com. Located in Kutsugata on the island’s west coast; the large, modern Western-style rooms here have views of either the port or the mountains. There’s a public bath and rates include two meals. ¥52,000

Rishiri Green Hill Inn 利尻ぐりーんひる inn Oshidomari 0163 82 2507, rishiri-greenhill.net. Just on the outskirts of Oshidomari, this clean hostel has Japanese-style rooms and large shared spaces. Hiking treks can be organized here. There’s a public bath, shared kitchen, and mountain bike rental (¥1300/day). Open between April to Oct. Dorms ¥3800, private room ¥9600

Rishiri Hokuroku Forest Park Campsite 利尻北麓野営場 Sakae-machi Oshidomari-aza 0163 82 2394, town.rishirifuji.hokkaido.jp/rishirifuji/1133.htm. This campsite is 3km south of the port and on the main route up the volcano. It’s worth noting that it is open mid-May to mid-Oct. Camping ¥500 per person; cabin for four people ¥5000

Rishiri Island Family Camping Yu-ni 利尻島ファミリーキャンプ場ゆ～に Oshidomari 0163 82 2166. The most popular campsite on the island, as it’s very family-friendly and usefully located close to the ferry. Open May–Oct. Camping ¥500 per person, cabins (sleeps 4) ¥5000, cottages (sleeps 5) ¥16,000

EATING MAP

Grand Spot グランスポット Oshidomari 0163 82 2164. Set back from the main road, this small but popular restaurant serves excellent ramen and hotatefurai kare (fried scallop curry, ¥1300). Daily 11am–6pm.

Tsuki Café ツキカフェ Oshidomari 0163 85 7474, bit.ly/tsuki-cafe. This small coffee shop serves good, single-origin organic coffee, and is conveniently located within the ferry terminal, offering splendid views of the harbour. Mid-May to Oct, daily except Wed 11.30am–2.30pm.

Rebun-tō

礼文島

Shaped like a crab’s claw adrift in the Sea of Japan, REBUN-TŌ is most famous for its wild flowers – from May to September the island’s rolling green slopes are said to bloom with three hundred different types of alpine plants. At the island’s southern end is its main port, the small settlement of Kafuka (香深), which spreads uphill from the coast. In the north is the small fishing village of Funadomari (船泊), which makes a good base for hikes out to the northern cape, Sukoton Misaki (スコトン岬). Seals can sometimes be seen resting on the rocks nearby.

The whole island is fabulous hiking territory. The longest and most popular hike is the 32km Hachi-jikan (8hr) down the west coast from Sukoton Misaki, the island’s northernmost point, to Motochi (元地) in the south. The cliffs at the end of this hike can be slippery and sometimes dangerous; easier is the Cape Tour (4hr) course, which omits the difficult coastal section of the Hachi-jikan course from Uennai to Motochi but still delivers fantastic cape views. It’s best to wear trousers for either course, as parts of the path are overgrown. The youth hostel (see opposite) arranges walking groups for the two hikes and holds briefings the night before. Stock up on food and drink before you start, as there are no refreshment stops along the way. When you’re all done, go for a dip at Usuyuki Onsen (うすゆきの湯) close to the ferry terminal (¥600; noon–10pm, 9pm in off season; 0163 86 2345, usuyuki.jp).

THE ROAD TO HIMENUMA

A less strenuous alternative to climbing Rishiri-zan is the three-hour hiking trail which starts at pretty Himenuma pond (姫沼) and continues across the slopes of two smaller mountains making up Pon-zan, to the Rishiri Hokuroku Forest Park Campsite. Note that the trail could be closed at times due to the weather. To get to Himenuma from Oshidomari, follow the coastal road 1km or so west until you reach a junction going up into the hills. The walk to the pond at that point is quite steep – you might be able to hitch a lift – and takes around 20min.

If you’ve got enough energy left to exert, you can also join a two-day kayaking trip with local guide Toshiya Watanabe, where you can travel along the island’s west shore before heading on land to camp (from ¥36,000 per person, including camping equipment and all meals; www.explore-share.com). Or you can stop by the Unimuki Taiken Katsugyo Centre (うにむき体験活魚センター) and open up your own fresh sea urchin to taste, as in Rishiri (¥800; Mon–Sat 8am–4pm; 0163 89 7380, bit.ly/rebun-to-fishery).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE REBUN-TŌ

By ferry Rebun-tō is only accessible by ferry from Wakkanai to Kafuka (4 daily mid-April to Oct, 2 daily Nov to mid-April; 1hr 55min). Ferries also sail between Kafuka on Rebun-tō and Oshidomari and Kutsugata on Rishiri-tō (daily; 40min). Just like Rishiri, tickets can only be purchased on the day of travel. Hostels and most minshuku will pick you up from the ferry terminals, if you book in advance. For full details of the ferries, go to heartlandferry.jp.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information Rebun’s tourist office (April–Oct daily 8am–5pm; 0163 86 2655, www.rebun-island.jp/en), in the ferry terminal at Kafuka, has a good map of the island, marked with the main hiking routes including ones up Rebun-dake and to the Momo-iwa (“Peach-Shaped Rock”) on the west coast. Staff can also help with booking accommodation.

Bus A local bus runs from the ferry terminal to Sukoton Misaki and back five times a day (¥1220).

Bike rental Bike rental is available from several shops near the ferry terminal for ¥500/hr, or ¥2000/day.

Bus tours If time is limited, consider taking one of the two bus tours (¥3100–3300), which cover all the scenic highlights and are timed to connect with the ferries; details are available from the tourist office.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Kushu-kohan Campsite 久種湖畔キャンプ場 Funadomari 0163 87 3110. Accessible by bus and on the northern part of the island on the shore of Kushu Lake. Shower and washing machine facilities. Open May to Oct. Per person ¥600, bungalows ¥2000

Momo-iwa-sō Youth Hostel 桃岩荘ユースホステル Aza Motochi, Kafuka 0163 86 1421, jyh.or.jp. Occupying a dramatic location on the rocky western coast south of Motochi in a 150-year-old building, making a good base for the Hachi-jikan hiking course; it’s situated at the end of the walk, but staff can organize transport to the start. It gets packed in peak season and the atmosphere becomes akin to a summer camp. Closed Oct–May. Dorms with breakfast ¥4536

Pension Uni ペンションう〜に〜　Kabuka Irifune, Rebun-cho 0163 86 1541, www.p-uni.burari.biz. This bright purple 10-room guesthouse offers simple tatami rooms and Western-style bedrooms with a family bath and onsite restaurant serving freshly caught seafood. Half board doubles from ¥15,000

EATING MAP

Chidori ちどり Kafuka 1115-3 0163 86 2130. Rebun is known for a dish called chan chan yaki, locally caught hokke (a type of mackerel) grilled and slathered with miso paste. You can sample this renowned dish as a lunch set for ¥1400 at this favourite spot near the terminal. Daily 11am–9.30pm.

Eastern Hokkaidō

With three major national parks, eastern Hokkaidō will be a high priority for those interested in Japan’s natural environment. Abashiri is known throughout Japan for its old maximum-security prison (now a museum), and for winter boat tours through the drift ice on the Sea of Okhotsk. Jutting into these inhospitable waters northeast of Abashiri is Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Japan’s most naturally unspoiled areas. Inland, south of the peninsula, is the Akan National Park, which is also stunning, with hot springs and three scenic lakes. More eco-tourist delights await at Kushiro Shitsugen National Park and Kiritappu Marsh, where you can spot regal red-crested white cranes among many other fauna and flora.

GETTING AROUND EASTERN HOKKAIDŌ

By car Public transport is sparse, so consider renting a car to get around. Nippon Rent-a-Car has offices throughout Hokkaidō, a user-friendly website and an English phone line open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm ( 03 6859 6234, nipponrentacar.co.jp).

Abashiri

網走

Bordered by a couple of pretty lakes, the fishing port of ABASHIRI, 350km from Sapporo, is best visited in the dead of winter, when snow covers the less appealing modern parts of the town, whooper swans fly in to stay for the winter at Lake Tofutsu, a few kilometres east of the harbour, and drift ice (ryūhyō) floats across the Sea of Okhotsk.

An excellent vantage point from which to take in Abashiri’s coastal location is the summit of Tento-zan, directly behind the train station, where you’ll also find several enjoyable museums. Check with the tourist office for coupons to get discounted entry to all these museums and for information on a bus service that runs a circuit around them.

CRANES, SWANS AND EAGLES

Birdwatchers will be thrilled by eastern Hokkaidō. The area is home to three of Japan’s top four ornithological spectacles: red-crested white cranes (tanchō-zuru) in the Kushiro and Kiritappu regions; whooper swans, also in the Kushiro region, and near Abashiri and Odaito towards the Notsuke Peninsula; and Steller’s sea eagles at Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula. The fourth must-see is the cranes at Arasaki in Kyūshū. The best months to view all of these are January, February and March.

The red-crested white cranes, commonly called tanchō, are a symbol of Japan and were once found all over the country. However, they became so rare in the twentieth century that they were thought to be almost extinct. Fortunately, the birds – designated a “Special Natural Monument” in 1952 – have survived, and their population, living exclusively in eastern Hokkaidō, now numbers around one thousand. Thanks to feeding programmes at several sites around the Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, it’s possible to see these grand but shy birds; with a 2m wingspan, they are the largest in Japan.

VIEWING THE DRIFT ICE

Global warming has impacted on the drift ice off the coast of Abashiri and the Shiretoko Peninsula, and both its volume and the season for its sighting – typically February to late March – are shrinking. Should the conditions be right, the ideal way to witness this astonishing phenomenon is to hop aboard the Aurora, an ice-breaking sightseeing boat, for a one-hour tour (late Jan to end March, daily; ¥3500; 0152 43 6000, ms-aurora.com/abashiri/en), which departs from Abashiri two to six times a day, depending on the month and weather. The boat cracks through the ice sheets, throwing up huge chunks, some more than 1m thick. An alternative is to take the slow-moving sightseeing train Ryuhyo Monogatari-go (流氷物語号; ¥840), which chugs along the coast between Abashiri and Shiretoko-Shari twice a day between the end of January and mid-March; there’s also the regular futsū train that runs into Akan National Park. Gojiraiwa-Kankō (ゴジラ岩観光; 0152 24 3060, kamuiwakka.jp/driftice) in Utoro offers walking trips across the ice and the chance to get in the frozen water, comfortably attired in a dry suit (¥6000).

Abashiri Prison Museum

博物館 網走監獄, Hakubutsukan Abashiri Kangoku • 1-1 Yobito • Daily: May–Sept 8am–6pm; Oct–April 9am–5pm • ¥1100 • 0152 45 2411, kangoku.jp

A prison building constructed in the 1890s, Abashiri Prison Museum occupies the site that was home to over 1000 hardened criminals. Now an open-air museum, learn about the prison's cruel history and visit the main building housing five radially constructed wings. Make sure to check out the adjoining cafeteria where you can dine on the same daily meals eaten by prisoners at Abashiri’s working prison, 3km away.

Okhotsk Ryūhyō Museum

オホーツク流氷館, Ohōtsuku Ryūhyō-kan • 245-1 Tentozan • Daily: May–Oct 8.30am–6pm; Nov–April 9am–4.30pm • ¥750 • 0152 43 5951, ryuhyokan.com

At the informative Okhotsk Ryūhyō Museum, you can touch huge lumps of ice in a room where the temperature is kept at -15˚C; coats are provided for warmth. A panoramic film of the drift ice is screened regularly throughout the day, and the observatory provides a 360° view of the Sea of Okhotsk.

Hokkaidō Museum of Northern Peoples

北海道立北方民族博物館, Hokkaidō-ritsu Hoppō Minzoku Hakubutsukan • 309-1 Shiomi • July–Sept 9.30am–5pm; Oct–June 9.30am–4.30pm, closed Mondays during low season • ¥550 • 0152 45 3888, hoppohm.org/english/index.htm

The Hokkaidō Museum of Northern Peoples has interesting displays on the native peoples of northern Eurasia and America, prompting comparisons between the different cultures. A colour-coded chart at the start of the exhibition will help you identify which artefacts belong to which races; look out for the Inuit cagoules, fascinating garments made of seal intestines.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ABASHIRI

By plane Memanbetsu (女満別) Airport ( 0152 74 3115, mmb-airport.co.jp) is 20km south of Abashiri and 35min from town by bus (¥910).

Destinations Kansai (daily; 2hr 10min); Nagoya (daily; 2hr); Sapporo (7 daily; 50min); Tokyo Haneda (5 daily; 1hr 40min).

By train By train, the fastest option is the Okhotsk limited express from Sapporo. There’s also a plodding local train on the Senmō line from the port of Kushiro, 146km south.

Destinations Asahikawa (4 daily; 3hr 45min); Kushiro (4 daily; 3hr); Sapporo (4 daily; 5hr 30min); Shiretoko-Shari (9 daily; 45min).

By bus Buses from Sapporo ( j-bus.co.jp) to Abashiri take 6hr.

Destinations Sapporo (9 daily; 6hr); Shari (5 daily; 1hr).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Inside the JR station is the helpful tourist office (Daily 9am–6pm; 0152 44 5849, abakanko.jp/en).

ACCOMMODATION

Abashiri Central Hotel 網走セントラルホテル Minami 2 Nishi 3 0152 44 5151, abashirich.com. One of the town’s top overnight choices offers a classy selection of rooms, a good restaurant (serving a buffet lunch for ¥1550) and is convenient for the shopping district. ¥15,800

Abashiri Ryūhyō-no-Oka Youth Hostel 網走流氷の丘ユースホステル Aza Meiji 22-6 0152 43 8558, youthhostel.or.jp. A modern hostel overlooking the Sea of Okhotsk. It’s a long, steep walk up here, so catch a taxi (around ¥1000), or request the station pick-up service. Bike rental is available. Breakfast and dinner for ¥1680. Dorms ¥3850

Farm Inn Anima no Sato ファーム・イン アニマの里 Omagari, Abashiri 0152 43 6806, animanosato.jp. Stay on this 25-acre ranch where all the rooms have garden views. There are animals you can pet, including ponies, and food is homemade in the farm’s own kitchen. Rooms from ¥4900

Memanbetsu Kohan 女満別湖畔キャンプ場 Aza Meiji 22-6 0152 74 4252. Outside of town but minutes from Memanbetsu Station, this camping area resides on beautiful Lake Abashiri. Communal kitchen and local onsen nearby. Open July–Sept. ¥300

Tōyoko Inn Okhotsk Abashiri Ekimae 東横INNオホーツク・網走駅前 1-3-3 Shin-machi 0152 45 1043, toyoko-inn.com. This branch of the dependable hotel chain is handily located directly opposite the station and not too far from the Abashiri River. Rooms are decorated in a simplistic, almost spartan-like style, although the toilets are slightly on the smaller side. ¥6750

EATING AND DRINKING

Abashiri specializes in fresh seafood – don’t leave town without trying some of the freshly caught, succulent crabs. It’s also home to a microbrewery, which is worth a visit to sample the local infusion.

Café & Cake Fuka カフェアンドケーキ風花 Yohito 121-7 0152 48 2006, abashiri-fuka.com. A little outside of town but worth the visit, Fuka delivers with outstanding desserts and beautiful outdoor seating. Daily 10am–7pm; closed Wed.

Sushi Yasu 寿し安 Minami 5 Nishi 2 0152 43 4121, sushiyasu.co.jp. Reliable and inexpensive, this place is a couple of blocks behind the Abashiri Central Hotel (see opposite): sushi sets cost as little as ¥1550. Daily 11am–2pm, 5–10pm.

Yakiniku Abashiri Biirukan Yakiniku 網走ビール館 Minami 2 Nishi 4 0152 41 0008, bit.ly/yakiniku-abashiri. Sample locally brewed Abashiri beer and grilled beef here, a 5min walk from the station towards the port; the yakiniku set menu costs from ¥2600. Mon–Thurs & Sun 5–11pm, Fri & Sat 5pm–midnight.

Shiretoko National Park

知床国立公園, Shiretoko Kokuritsu Kōen

Since 176,000 acres of the Shiretoko Peninsula, including the SHIRETOKO NATIONAL PARK, gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2005, there’s been an increasing amount of investment in, as well as visitors to this magnificent ecosystem, 42km east of Abashiri. Even so, by any standards the park, which covers about half the 70km-long peninsula thrusting into the Sea of Okhotsk, remains virtually untouched by signs of human development: there are few roads or tourist facilities, and wildlife is abundant – you’re almost guaranteed to encounter wild deer, foxes and even brown bears. Peak season is from June to September, which is the best period for hiking and viewing the five small lakes at Shiretoko Go-ko, most easily reached from the peninsula’s main town, Utoro. In the winter, drift ice litters the shore, and some two thousand Steller’s sea eagles can be observed near RAUSU (羅臼; rausu-shiretoko.com) on the peninsula’s southeast coast. This remote fishing village can be used as a base for the park and is the only place offering winter cruises.

ABASHIRI-KO WINTER ACTIVITIES

From late January to early March, fun winter activities take place on frozen Abashiri-ko, on the town’s western flank. You can take a snowmobile for a spin around a 7km course over the lake (daily 9am–4.30pm; ¥3000), or be dragged around the ice sitting inside a raft or astride an inflatable banana. This site, along with the quay at Abashiri Port, is also the location for the town’s mini snow festival, which takes place in the second week of February each year. Buses run to the lake from outside Abashiri Station. If none of that feels cold enough, then try diving beneath the ice (¥30,000 for two dives; 0152 61 5102, tar2uga.co.jp). Book far in advance.

Utoro

ウトロ

Roads stop halfway up both sides of the Shiretoko Peninsula, so the only way you’ll get to see the rocky cape, with its unmanned lighthouse and waterfalls plunging over sheer cliffs into the sea, is to take one of the sightseeing boats from UTORO. Near the town’s tiny harbour are several large rocks, one of which is nicknamed “Godzilla”, for reasons that become obvious when you see it.

Shiretoko World Heritage Conservation Centre

知床世界遺産センター, Shiretoko Seikaiisan Sentā • 186-10 Utoro Nishi • Summer 8.30am–5.30pm; winter 9am–4.30pm; closed Tues • Free • 0152 24 3255, shiretoko-whc.jp

While in Utoro, drop by the excellent Shiretoko World Heritage Conservation Centre to learn about Shiretoko National Park and its vegetation and wildlife. They have separate displays on the animals of the mountain, forest, river and sea, and a scale relief map of the area.

Shiretoko Shizen Centre

知床自然センター, Shiretoko Sekai Isan Sentā • 531 Iwaobetsu, Shari-chō • Daily: summer 8am–5.30pm; winter 9am–4pm • Free; film ¥500 • center.shiretoko.or.jp/en

Based outside Utoro, en route to the Five Lakes, is the Shiretoko Shizen Centre, which shows a twenty-minute giant-screen film throughout the day, with swooping aerial shots of the mountains and rugged coastline. Behind the centre, a few well-marked nature trails lead through forests and heathland to cliffs, down which a waterfall cascades.

Shiretoko Go-ko

知床五湖 • Late April to late Nov daily 7.30am–6pm • Short route: free; long route: ¥5000 with mandatory guide in Active Bear Season (May 10–July 31), ¥250 in Ecosystem Aware Season (late April–May 9 & Aug 1–Oct 20), free late Oct to early Nov • 0152 24 3323, goko.go.jp • Bus from Utoro (6 times daily; 25min; ¥700)

Fourteen kilometres north of Utoro, past the Iwaobetsu Youth Hostel, lies the Shiretoko Go-ko, where five jewel-like lakes are linked by wooden walkways and sinuous forest paths. In fine weather, some of the lakes reflect the mountains, and a lookout point west of the car park provides a sweeping view across the heathland to the sea. The further you walk around the 3km circuit, the more serene the landscape becomes. Note that in the ‘Active Bear Season’, you’re only able to walk the full route as part of a guided tour. There is a shorter elevated walkway which is free throughout the park’s open months, and you may even see bears from that walkway. Allow at least an hour to see all five lakes.

Kamuiwakka-no-taki

カムイワッカの滝

Coming from Utoro, just before the turn-off to the Shiretoko Go-ko lakes, a dirt road continues up the peninsula. Following this track for about twenty minutes by car, as it rises uphill, will bring you to Kamuiwakka-no-taki, a cascading warm-water river and a series of waterfalls, creating three levels of natural rotemburo, although these days only the lowest pool is accessible, due to the risk of falling rocks. To reach the bathing pool (bring your bathing suit) you’ll have to climb up the river – be careful on the slippery rocks. The water is mildly acidic, so be warned that if you have any cuts it’s going to sting, and bring a water bottle to rinse off with afterwards. Access by car is not allowed during the busy season (Aug and mid-Sept), thus shuttle buses run from Utoro to the site and back (¥1980; 1hr).

HIKING IN THE SHIRETOKO NATIONAL PARK

The peak of Rausu-dake (羅臼岳), the tallest mountain in Shiretoko at 1661m, can be reached in around four-and-a-half hours from the Iwaobetsu Youth Hostel, passing a natural rotemburo on the way. From the summit, there are spectacular views along the whole peninsula, and to the east you should be able to see Kunashiri-tō, one of the disputed Kuril Islands, or “Northern Territories” as they are known in Japan. It takes a full day to continue across Rausu-dake to Rausu.

Iō-zan (硫黄山), the active volcano that produces hot water for the Kamuiwakka-no-taki waterfalls, is a more difficult climb. The trail begins beside the Shiretoko Ōhashi, the bridge just beyond the entrance to the falls. A hike to the 1562m summit and back takes at least eight hours and can be combined with a visit to the hot waterfall.

You’ll need to be a serious mountaineer to tackle the difficult ridge trail linking Iō-zan and Rausu-dake; bring a topographical map, take precautions against bears and plan to stay one or two nights at the campsites along the way. The Rusa Field House (ルサフィールドハウス; closed Tues; summer 9am–5pm; winter 10am–4pm; 0153 89 2722, tshiretoko-whc.jp/rfh), about 10km north along the coast from Rausu, can provide rules and current information to mountaineers and sea kayakers.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SHIRETOKO NATIONAL PARK

By train The gateway to the Shiretoko Peninsula is Shari (斜里), where there’s a JR station (Shiretoko-Shari) on the Senmō line.

Destinations Abashiri (7 daily; 45min); Kushiro (5 daily; 2hr 30min).

By bus From the bus terminal opposite the station, services run to Utoro (7 daily; 50min; ¥1650) and to Rausu (4 daily; 1hr; ¥1600). Between May and October, buses continue up to Iwaobetsu for the youth hostel. In the same time period you can travel to Rausu (¥2660) via the Shiretoko Pass; note this road is closed to traffic Nov to late April. For more details check sharibus.co.jp.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information There’s a tourist office in the road station on the way into Utoro (daily 8.30am–6.30pm; 0152 24 2639, town.shari.hokkaido.jp), and, on the other side of the peninsula, there’s the Rausu Visitor Centre (羅臼ビジターセンター; 6-27 Yunosawa, Rausu-chō; May–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–April 10am–4pm; closed Mon; 0153 87 2828, rausu-vc.jp) about 1km or so out of Rausu, near the Kuma-no-yu hot springs.

Cruises There are several sightseeing boats that leave from Utoro. Trips on the largest boat, the Aurora ( 0152 24 2147, ms-aurora.com), run to Kamuiwakka-no-taki waterfall and Mount Iō (end April–Oct daily, 1hr 30min; ¥3100) and out to the cape (June–Sept daily, 3hr 45min; ¥6500); you’ll get closer to the coastline on one of the smaller boats run by several different operators. Gojiraiwa-Kankō (ゴジラ岩観光; 0152 24 3060, kamuiwakka.jp) run cruises out to the cape (3hr–3hr 30min; ¥8000), shorter cruises up to Kamuiwakka-no-taki and Mount Iō (1hr; ¥3300); and the popular brown bear sightseeing cruise (2hr; ¥5500). Rausu is the place to go for spring and winter cruises – Gojiraiwa-Kankō also runs trips there (from ¥4000/person).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Utoro has a great range of accommodation and good access to the peninsula. The more remote Rausu is another option if you have more time.

Café Fox カフェ・フォックス 96 Utoro-higashi 050-31-888222, cafefox.jp. For some superb fish and chips, made with local fresh fish, seek out this small café, which also runs boat tours. Daily 8am–6pm, hours may change depending on the boat schedule.

Iwaobetsu Youth Hostel 知床岩尾別ユースホステル Aza Iwaobetsu 0152 24 2311, shiretoko-guide.com/stay. Nestling in a valley beside the Iwaobetsu-gawa, this hostel is large and well managed, with welcoming staff and good food. You can also rent bikes here, and meals cost an extra ¥2500. Closed early Dec. Dorms ¥4200

Kitakobushi 北こぶし知床 172 Utorohigashi, Shari www.shiretoko.co.jp. This hotel and ‘live cooking’ restaurant lets you watch chefs in the open kitchen as you tuck into a buffet focusing on local ingredients and dishes, which makes for a fun evening. You can also stay at the elegant hotel, with well-designed ocean-facing rooms. Half board doubles ¥22,000

THE DISPUTED KURIL ISLANDS

A protracted territorial dispute over the Kuril Islands, some of which can be seen clearly from the Shiretoko Peninsula, means that technically Japan and Russia are still fighting World War II. A peace accord has yet to be signed because of Russia’s continued occupation of these volcanic islands, which are strung across the Sea of Okhotsk between the Kamchatka Peninsula and northeastern Hokkaidō.

Known in Japan as the Northern Territories, or Thousand Islands, and in Russia as the Kurils, only eight of the 56 volcanic islands are permanently inhabited. Japan demands the return of the four southernmost islands, the closest of which is less than 20km off Hokkaidō’s coast. The islands themselves are fairly desolate; it is their strategic importance, rich mineral resources and the surrounding fishing grounds that make them so desirable.

Kitakobushi Shiretoko 北こぶし知床 172 Utoro-higashi 0152 24 2021, wshiretoko.co.jp. This opulent hotel has both Western- and Japanese-style rooms, as well as a rooftop onsen bath and rotemburo with views across the harbour. Meals included. ¥32,000

Mine-no-yu 峰の湯 Yunosawa-chō 7-3, Rausu 0153 87 3001, rausu-minenoyu.com. The least shabby of Rausu’s three large onsen hotels, the majority of rooms here are Japanese-style but have attached Western-style toilets and baths. Meals included. ¥19,000

Shiretoko Yaei-jō 知床野営場 Utoro-kagawa 0152 24 2722, shiretoko.asia/hotel/camp_utoro.html. On the hill overlooking Utoro, this well-maintained campsite is open June–Sept and there are onsen nearby. Note that it is cash only. Camping per person ¥400, cabins for four people ¥3200

Akan National Park

阿寒国立公園, Akan Kokuritsu Kōen

Some 50km south of the Shiretoko Peninsula is the densely forested AKAN NATIONAL PARK, its 905 square kilometres harbouring three major lakes – Mashū-ko, Kussharo-ko and Akan-ko – and the volcanic peaks of Me-Akan (female mountain) and Ō-Akan (male mountain), which formed Akan-ko. Patchy public transport makes this a difficult area to tour unless you have your own car or don’t mind hitching. Nevertheless, the park is a haven for birdwatchers and walkers and has some pleasant lakeside onsen, while in Akan Kohan you can see traditional Ainu dancing, as well as the rare balls of algae known as marimo. A great way to see the lakes and some natural marimo is to jump on one of the sightseeing cruises. These include a stop at the Marimo Exhibition and Observation Centre on Churui-jima in the middle of Akan-ko (85min; leaves every hour; akankisen.com; ¥2000).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AKAN NATIONAL PARK

By bus Buses run to Akan Kohan (see below) from Asahikawa (2 daily; 5hr) via Sōunkyō (3hr 30min). There are also tourist buses that do a loop from Kushiro Station, taking in the sites at Akan-ko, Mashū-ko and Kussharo-ko; check akanbus.co.jp for the latest schedule.

Tourist information There’s wi-fi and plenty of information on local activities, including hiking trails, at the tourist office (daily 9am–6pm; 0154 67 3200, ja.kushiro-lakeakan.com, untouchedhokkaido.jp), opposite the New Akan Hotel Shangrila about a 5min walk from the bus terminal towards the lake. You can rent bikes from here for ¥500/day.

Akan Kohan

阿寒湖畔

The compact onsen resort of AKAN KOHAN on the southern shore of the lake is the most commercialized part of the Akan National Park, with no shortage of tacky gift shops down its main street. However, it can be used as a base for hikes up the nearby peaks of Me-Akan-dake (雌阿寒岳; 1499m) and Ō-Akan-dake (雄阿寒岳; 1371m). Many of the hotels allow day visitors into their onsen baths, usually between 11am and 3pm, for around ¥1500.

Ainu Kotan Village

アイヌコタン • Folklore Museum Daily 10am–10pm • ¥300 • Ikor dance and music performances Evenings; times vary • 0154 67 2727, akanainu.jp/en • ¥1080

At the western end of town is the Ainu Kotan, a contrived Ainu “village” which is little more than a short road of gift shops selling identical carved-wood figures. Some two hundred Ainu are said to live in the town. Traditional dance and music performances are staged in the thatched chise (house) at the top of the shopping parade, and there’s a tiny folklore museum in a hut beside the chise with some traditional Ainu costumes. There are also regular evening performances of puppet plays and traditional Ainu dancing in the impressive Ainu Theatre Ikor (イコロ).

Akan Kohan Eco Museum Centre

阿寒湖畔エコミュージアムセンター • 1-1 Akanko Onsen 1-chōme • 9am–5pm; closed Tues • Free • 0154 67 4100, bit.ly/akan-kohan

At the eastern end of Akan Kohan is the Akan Kohan Eco Museum Centre, where you can find out how the Akan caldera was formed and view marimo up close. These velvety green balls of algae are native to Akan-ko, which is one of the few places in the world where you’ll find this nationally designated “special natural treasure”. Despite their rarity and the fact that it can take 200 years for the marimo to grow to the size of baseballs, it’s possible to buy bottled baby marimo in all of Akan’s gift shops – although, in recent years, these souvenirs are more likely to be hand-rolled algae from other lakes. From the Eco Museum, pleasant woodland trails lead to the Bokke (ボッケ), a small area of bubbling mud pools beside the lake.

ACCOMMODATION AKAN KOHAN

Akan-kohan Campsite 阿寒湖畔キャンプ場 5-1 Akanko Onsen 0154 67 3263, bes.or.jp/akanko. This decent wooded campsite is a 5min walk beyond the Ainu Kotan village (see above). Open June–Sept. Per person ¥630

Hinanoza 鄙の座 2-8-1 Akanko Onsen 0154 67 5500, hinanoza.com/en. To see how amazing Ainu carving can be, take a peek – or better yet stay – at this beautifully designed hotel, the most luxurious of the Tsuruga group’s three properties by the lake. Rooms have terraces with private onsen baths. ¥72,106

La Vista Akangawa カムイの湯 ラビスタ阿寒川 3 1 Akancho Okurushube www.hotespa.net/hotels/akangawa. This traditional ryokan has wonderful views of the Akan River, with forest-facing hot springs baths and large windows in the bedrooms. Doubles ¥20,000

BEWARE BEARS

The brown bear (ezo higuma) is common to wilderness areas of Hokkaidō, with around two hundred thought to be living in the Shiretoko-hantō. The bears, which can grow to a height of 2m and weigh up to 400kg, can be dangerous if surprised. In 2016, bear sightings in northern Japan increased dramatically, and four people were killed in Akita and Aomori prefecture while foraging in the forest. If you’re planning a hiking trip in these parts, it is important to be alert for bears and take appropriate precautions so you don’t disturb them. Carrying a bell that jangles as you walk is a good idea as this will warn bears of your approach and hopefully keep them away: this is what the local Japanese hikers do. It’s also vital, if carrying food, that you take great care to keep this away from bears. Don’t discard food scraps around where you camp – leave them until you reach a river or stream where they can be washed away. If you do encounter a bear, don’t run away – this will be an invitation for them to chase you – and don’t make any sudden movements or look them directly in the eyes. Try to remain as still as possible until the bear gets bored and moves on.

Mashū-ko

摩周湖

Some 35km east of Akan-ko, just outside the Akan National Park boundaries, is the famed lake MASHŪ-KO, lying at the bottom of sheer cliffs that keep tourists at bay and the waters pristine. There are three lookout points over the 212m-deep caldera lake, which on rare occasions sparkles a brilliant blue. Usually, though, the view is obscured by swirling mists and thick cloud, creating a mysterious atmosphere which led the Ainu to christen Mashū-ko “The Devil’s Lake”.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MASHŪ-KO

By bus Between mid-July and mid-Oct, the “Teshikaga Eco-Passport” is offered, a hop-on hop-off bus pass serving both Mashū-ko and Kussharo-ko. It also entitles holders to free bike rental from several train stations and other various discounts. A two-day pass is ¥1500 and can be bought at both JR Mashū and Kawayu Onsen stations. Four buses leave daily from JR Mashū for their loop, and three buses leave daily from JR Kawayu Onsen for theirs; both include Mashū-ko and Kussharo-ko on their routes. See eco-passport.net for details.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

The Great Bear ザ・グレートベア Genya 883, Teshikaga-chō 0154 82 3830, greatbear.sakura.ne.jp. Next door to Mashū-ko Youth Hostel, this restaurant serves delicious meals using local ingredients – set menus range from ¥1815 to fillet steak at ¥15,500, less if you’re staying at the hostel. Daily 7.30am–9pm.

Mashū-ko Youth Hostel 摩周湖ユースホステル Genya 883, Teshikaga-chō 0154 82 3098, youthhostel.or.jp/mashu/index.html. This large and modern hostel halfway to the lake from Teshikaga runs a number of reasonably priced guided tours of the area. Meals are served next door in the good-value Great Bear restaurant. Dorms ¥4700, doubles ¥9800

Kussharo-ko

屈斜路湖

West of Mashū-ko is Akan National Park’s largest lake, picturesque Kussharo-ko, at eighty square kilometres the biggest crater lake in Japan. It’s also said to be the home of Kusshi: Japan’s answer to the Loch Ness Monster. Whether it has a monster or not, Kussharo-ko is special because it is fed by onsen water, creating a warm temperature and several natural rotemburo around its edge, such as the piping-hot pools at Wakoto Hantō (和琴半島), a mini-promontory on the lake’s southern shore. You can hop into another lakeside rotemburo at Kotan Onsen (コタン温泉), an easy cycle ride from the Kussharo-Genya Youth Guesthouse (see below).

A strong whiff of sulphur from the hot springs drifts over the area’s main village, KAWAYU ONSEN (川湯温泉), 3km from the lake, where there are several hotels and minshuku and free ashiyu (footbaths). The bus terminal is located here, which makes the village a good base for touring the park.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KUSSHARO-KO

By train Kawayu Onsen’s train station is on the Senmō line and is a 10min bus journey (¥290) south of the village; buses are timed to meet the trains, with the last bus to the onsen leaving at 6.30pm.

Tourist information There’s a good tourist office (daily 9am–5pm; 0154 83 2670) with lots of information. The free Kawayu Ecomuseum Centre (川湯エコミュージアムセンター; 2-2-6 Kawayu Onsen; kawayu-eco-museum.com/english; April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 9am–4pm, closed Wed) has plenty of information on the park, but it’s virtually all in Japanese.

Tours The Kawayu Ecomuseum Centre (see above) can provide information on the several hiking trails around the village, one of which is wheelchair-accessible, and rent out cross-country skis and snowshoes in winter. Contact Grace Field ( www.gracefield946.com) if you’re interested in taking a guided canoe or fishing tour of the Kushiro River (from ¥9000/person when two people book).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Hotel Kitafukurou ホテルきたふくろう 1-9-15 Kawayu-onsen 0154 83 2960, kitafukuro.com. The nicest place to stay in Kawayu Onsen, with both pleasant Japanese- and Western-style rooms and onsen baths (open to non-guests 2pm–6pm; ¥800). Two meals included. ¥17,900

Kussharo-Gen’ya Youth Guesthouse 屈斜路原野ユースホステル 443-1 Kussharo-genya 0154 84 2609, gogogenya.com. In a tent-like wooden building some 30min walk from the southern shore of Kussharo-ko, the rooms here are Western-style, and superb Japanese meals are available. You can rent mountain bikes (¥1000/day) or take advantage of the various tours on offer, which include cross-country skiing in winter. In the evening, the staff will also take you to a natural rotemburo beside the lake. Dorms ¥3500, doubles ¥9900

Orchard Grass オーチャードグラス 1-1-18 Kawayu-eki-mae 0154 83 3787. This nicely unchanged café, opened in 1936, is located at JR Kawayu Station and serves well-prepared curry rice. Oct–June 10am–6pm, closed Tues.

Lake Kussharo Tsuruga Auberge SoRa 屈斜路湖鶴雅オーベルジュ 269 Kussharo 015 484 2538, www.auberge-sora.com. This wood cabin-style restaurant and hotel has been designed to maximise its surrounding environment, taking in the blue skies and green fields through its enormous glass windows. Seasonal cuisine (nine-course set menu ¥10,000) is served in the airy restaurant, while the Nordic-style accommodation features jacuzzis and private terraces. Doubles per person (including set dinner) ¥30,000

Wakoto-Hantō Kohan Camp Area 和琴半島湖畔キャンプ場 Wakoto-hantō 0154 84 2350. At the Wakoto Hantō Peninsula on the southern shores of Kussharo-ko, you can camp here in a designated camping area, as well as choosing from a range of activities on offer: these include canoeing and fishing. There’s even a natural rotemburo by the lake to enjoy, too. Open April–Oct. Per person ¥450

Kushiro Shitsugen National Park

釧路湿原国立公園, Kushiro Shitsugen Kokuritsu Kōen

Japan’s largest protected wetland, at 45,200 acres, is the Kushiro Shitsugen National Park. Birdwatchers flock here in winter to see tanchō cranes , but the wetlands are home to many other birds and animals, including deer, grey herons, whooper swans and eagles. One of the best places to observe the cranes is actually just north of the park, in the fields near the village of TSURUI (鶴居), an hour’s drive north of Kushiro, at the Tsurui Itō Japanese Crane Sanctuary (鶴居•伊藤タンチョウサンクチュアリ; Aza Nakasetsuri Minami; Nov–March Mon & Thurs–Sun 9am–4pm; free; 0154 64 2620, park15.wakwak.com). Half an hour further north of here towards Akan is the Akan International Crane Centre (daily 9am–5pm, April–Oct closed Mon; ¥470; aiccgrus.wixsite.com/aiccgrus/english-page) at GRUS, which has breeding facilities and an exhibition hall.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KUSHIRO SHITSUGEN NATIONAL PARK

By plane Tanchō Kushiro Airport たんちょう釧路空港 ( 0154 57 8304, kushiro-airport.co.jp) is 20km west of Kushiro and 45min from town by bus (¥950).

Destinations Sapporo (6 daily; 45min); Tokyo Haneda (6 daily; 1hr 50min).

By bus The industrial port of Kushiro (釧路) is the southern gateway to the park, which is best toured by car, but the Akan Kohan-bound bus from Kushiro Station also passes several of the facilities; get details from Kushiro’s tourist office.

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist office (daily 9am–5.30pm; 0154 22 8294, ja.kushiro-lakeakan.com) in Kushiro Station; ask for the useful Kushiro Wetland Teku-Teku Map or download it from their website.

ACCOMMODATION

Hickory Wind ヒッコリーウィンド Tsurui 0154 64 2956, hickorywind.jp. There’s excellent accommodation and a friendly welcome in this rustic location overlooking the crane sanctuary. Call ahead to be picked up at the airport or Tsurui bus station. Birdwatching tours also available. Rates include two meals. ¥22,000

Guest House Proof Point ゲスト・ハウス・プルーフ・ポイント 4-4-1 Nishikicho, Kushiro. This hostel, with mixed and gender-separated dorm rooms, offers affordable, comfortable accommodation, not far from Kushiro Harbour. Free wi-fi is available, and communal living rooms provide a decent place to relax. Dorm beds ¥2800

Obihiro

帯広

Directly 200km east of Sapporo lies OBIHIRO, often considered a stopover destination en route to the eastern parts of Akan National Park and Kushiro. Though it may not be Hokkaidō’s most picturesque city, it compensates with some outstanding festivals, tempting shopping opportunities and memorable cultural experiences. It’s also surrounded by rich farmland; you may consider stopping by Kamishihorochō Naitaikōgen Farm (上士幌町ナイタイ高原牧場, 10am–5pm; kamishihoro.jp/sp/naitai), Japan’s largest public pasture, to enjoy fresh ice cream or climb Naitai-zan (ナイタイ山).

Obihiro Racecourse

帯広競馬場, Obihiro Keiba-jō • Nishi 13 Minami 9 • Mid-April to late-Nov, Sat–Mon 1–8.30pm • ¥100 • 0155 34 0825, banei-keiba.or.jp • 20min on foot from JR Obihiro or 10min by local Tokachi bus; alight at Keiba-jō Mae bus stop

Though Obihiro Racecourse opened in 1932, it’s only since 2007 that this officially became the only place in the world to continue to practise the sport of Banei. This involves one-tonne draught horses pulling sleighs across a 200m course for spectators, who often run alongside the track cheering on their favourite. Originally the races took place to display the strength of Hokkaidō’s farm horses, but now it’s a local betting extravaganza. When the gigantic horses aren’t racing, you can visit them at the on-site stables and even offer a carrot. A small free museum dedicated to the racing tradition is next to the track.

Ikeda Wine Castle

池田ワイン城, Ikeda Wain-jō • Ikeda, Kiyomi 83-3 • Daily 9am–5pm; tours three times daily, reservation required • Free • 0157 72 2467, tokachi-wine.com • Take limited express or local train to Ikeda Station and walk 10min

Perched on top of a hill and completely out of place sits the European-looking Ikeda Wine Castle. Though Japan is not known for wine, and despite Hokkaidō being less than ideal for cultivating grapes, Tokachi wine is considered some of the best in Japan and has won numerous awards. A free wine tour is offered, though unmonitored wine tasting takes place throughout. In October, the castle hosts a wine festival, where participants can indulge in all-you-can-drink wine and all-you-can-eat Hokkaidō beef on the castle grounds. At the time of writing, the Castle was closed for renovation until April 2020, but it should’ve reopened by the time you’re reading this.

Mount Tokachi Observatory

十勝岳望岳台 • Shirogane, Biei, Kamikawa District • Free

This 900m-high lookout point, about a 30 minute drive from Biei Station, affords excellent views over the surrounding area, including Mount Asahi and Mount Biei. There are informative signs highlighting the history of the region, including details about the area’s volcanic eruptions of 1926 and 1989.

Tokachigawa Onsen

十勝川温泉 • Hokumon-chō 11 chōme • Daily 11am–5pm • Free • 0155 32 6633, tokachigawa.net • Tokachi bus #45 from Obihiro Station toward Ecology Park to Tokachigawa Onsen stop

One of the more popular onsen resorts in Hokkaidō, Tokachigawa Onsen has drawn people to bathe in its golden-brown waters since 1900. Unlike other onsen that are fed by sulphuric volcanic springs, this one is a low-alkaline moor spring. Its source is ancient plants deep underground, emitting heat and copious amounts of organic matter that are said to make the skin smoother and to have beautifying effects. About twenty hotels offer one-day onsen passes in the area for ¥500–1500 (see tokachigawa.net for locations).

OBIHIRO’S FESTIVALS

In the winter, Obihiro hosts yet another Snow Festival, lacking the crowds of its sister Yuki Matsuri in Sapporo. In the summer during the Obon holidays, Obihiro holds one of the most impressive fireworks displays in Japan at the Kachimai Hanabi Taikai (勝毎花火大会).

CRISSCROSSING POROSHIRI-DAKE

Known as one of Japan’s best hikes, Poroshiri-dake (幌尻岳) lies deep within the Hidaka mountains and is often called the “backbone” of Hokkaidō. It’s a demanding hike; at 2052m, the beautiful alpine trail snakes along flowing rivers, requiring about 25 crossings, some waist-deep. Ten hours is recommended for the hike, and a hut is open mid-July to late Sept for overnight trekkers. Climbing is not recommended after heavy rainfalls because the crossings become more treacherous.

The only way to reach Poroshiri-dake without your own transport is either to hitch or take a bus to Furenai (振内) from Sapporo or Tomakomai. From there, take a taxi to reach the starting point.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION OBIHIRO

By plane Tokachi-Obihiro airport (とかち帯広空港, 0155 64 5320, tokachiobihiro-airport.jp) is 10km east of the city; a bus costs ¥1000 (7 daily; 40min), and a taxi around ¥7000. There are flights to and from Tokyo Haneda (7 daily; 1hr 30min).

By train Limited express trains from Sapporo to Obihiro take 2hr 50min.

By bus Buses leave in front of the train station.

Destinations Asahikawa via Sōunkyō (daily; 3hr 45min); Asahikawa via Furano (3 daily; 4hr); Sapporo via the Potato Liner (10 daily; 3hr 40min).

Tourist information The tourist office (daily 9am–6pm; 0155 23 6403, obikan.jp) is inside the JR terminal. Bike rental available.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Café Green カフェグリーン Higashi 3, Minami 3 0155 27 3751, facebook.com/CAFE-GREEN-631156733688097. This cosy café serves reasonably priced drinks and smoothies, desserts and lunch sets. Daily 10am–1am.

Hotel Nupka ホテルヌプカ Nishi 10-20-3, Minami 2 0155 20 2600, nupka.jp/en/official-hotel-nupka. Located minutes from JR Obihiro, an attractively modern hotel with a café/bar with gourmet coffee and its own craft beer. Wooden bunk-bed dorms and comfortable private rooms. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥7100

Panchou ぱんちょう Nishi 1, Minami 11-19-1 0155 22 1974. Obihiro’s claim to culinary fame is its buta don, char-grilled pork seasoned with soy sauce served over rice. Wait in line here to taste the delicious original (from ¥850). 11am–7pm; closed Mon and sometimes Tues.

Toipirka Kitaobihiro Youth Hostel トイピルカ北帯広ユースホステル Higashi 52-8, Kita 4 0155 30 4165, bit.ly/toipirka-hostel. The wood-furnished hostel is the closest hostel option to Obihiro, and nearby to Tokachigawa Onsen. Its friendly owners serve up tasty organic meals. Free pick-up from Obihiro Station and free bike rental. Dorms including breakfast ¥4930, doubles ¥8200

SHOPPING

Ryugetsu Sweetpia Garden 柳月スイートピア・ガーデン Kita 9, Nishi 18 0120 25 5566, ryugetsu.co.jp/sweetpia. Renowned sweets producer Ryugetsu operates giant Tokachi Sweetpia Garden close to the city centre. They also offer sugar-infused shopping, factory tours, snacking and hands-on workshops, which cost from from ¥1000. Daily 9am–6pm; early Nov to early April 9.30am–5pm.

< Back to Hokkaidō

Tim Draper

TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE IN TAKAYAMA

Central Honshū

Nagano

Around Nagano

The Nagano-ken mountains

Karuizawa and around

Matsumoto

Around Matsumoto

The Kiso valley

Okuhida

Takayama

Furukawa

Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama

Toyama

Kanazawa and around

Noto Hantō

Nagoya

Inuyama

Gifu

Gujō Hachiman

Niigata

Sado-ga-shima

Central Honshū

Dominated by the magnificent Japan Alps, peppered with top onsen and ski resorts, time-honoured castle- and temple-towns and quaint old-fashioned villages in remote valleys, Central Honshū offers a fantastic choice of terrain and travel possibilities. If you just want to admire the grand scenery – even for a day – you can zip on the Shinkansen from Tokyo to the chief town, Nagano, home to the venerable Zenkō-ji temple.

Known locally as Chūbu, the region also boasts the resort of Karuizawa and the charming village of Nozawa Onsen, northeast of Nagano, where you’ll find excellent ski slopes and free hot-spring baths. Hakuba is another popular skiing and outdoor activities destination, while in the southern half of Nagano-ken you can explore the immaculately preserved post towns that line the Nakasendō, an ancient route from Kyoto to Tokyo, even hiking for a day between the best of them – Tsumago and Magome.

The western side of the Alps holds the convivial town of Takayama and the unusual A-frame thatched houses of the Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama valleys. This area can also be accessed from the Sea of Japan, where the elegant, historic city of Kanazawa, now reached by direct Shinkansen from Tokyo, makes an ideal base. Off to the northeast, the tranquil fishing villages dotted around the rugged coastline of Noto Hantō offer glimpses of a Japan far removed from the modern metropolises.

Along the southern coast of Chūbu, the main expressways and train lines between Tokyo and the Kansai region parallel the Pacific, amid ugly vistas of rampant industrialization. Even here there are places worth stopping to see, including Japan’s fourth main city, Nagoya, an enjoyable and easily negotiated metropolis that offers day-trips to the attractive castle town of Inuyama, or to Meiji Mura, an impressive outdoor museum of early twentieth-century architecture.

On Sado-ga-shima, a large island lying off the coast by the friendly city of Niigata, dramatic mountain and coastal scenery provides the backdrop for a surprisingly rich culture – a legacy of its isolation as well as the infamous characters once exiled here.

GETTING AROUND CENTRAL HONSHŪ

By train and bus Since the Shinkansen was extended as far as Kanazawa in 2015, transport connections have been faster than ever. However, even though a couple of train lines cut across from coast to coast, many places in the mountains are only served by buses, which can be infrequent and pricey, though Nōhi Bus has fairly comprehensive and reasonably priced routes ( www.nouhibus.co.jp/english).

By car Renting a car will sometimes be your best bet, although several scenic routes, including the Skyline Drive across the Alps from Gifu-ken to Nagano-ken, are closed by deep snow in winter. The mountain resort of Kamikōchi and the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route are similarly off limits Nov–April.

Nagano

長野

The compact, modern city of NAGANO stands at the heart of a broad and very fertile valley a little over 200km northwest of Tokyo. Capital of its own prefecture, it’s best known internationally for having hosted the Winter Olympics back in 1998, courtesy of the world-class ski resorts nestled below the surrounding snowcapped peaks. Nagano has been attracting Japanese visitors for centuries, however, thanks to the millions of pilgrims who flock to pay homage at the Zenkō-ji temple complex.

For tourists, Nagano makes an easy and rewarding stopover. Other than the temple itself, silhouetted against a splendid mountain backdrop at the top of the die-straight main street, there are few specific sights. With hotels and restaurants in abundant supply, though, it’s a handy base for trips to nearby destinations such as Karuizawa, Togakushi, Obuse, Nozawa Onsen, Hakuba, and Kanbayashi Onsen, home to the famed snow monkeys.

Alamy

YARI-GA-TAKE, KAMIKŌCHI

Highlights

Obuse Idyllic rural town where you can enjoy gourmet treats, sake, traditional architecture and a healthy dose of Hokusai.

Japan Alps skiing Ride Japan’s legendary powder snow at the ski resorts dotted around Nagano.

Matsumoto Survey the mountains surrounding this friendly city from the donjon of Japan’s oldest wooden castle.

Kamikōchi Climb Japan’s magnificent Alps from this beguiling alpine resort, only accessible from April to November.

Kiso Valley Follow in the footsteps of the samurai with a hike through the picturesque post towns of the old Nakasendō route.

Takayama A delightful town renowned for its skilled carpenters, whose craftsmanship adorns its attractive merchant houses, shrines and temples.

Gujō Hachiman August’s Obon holidays offer an irresistible opportunity to dance the night away in this charming castle town.

Sado-ga-shima Dance to the rhythmic global beat at the annual Earth Celebration, hosted by international drumming sensation Kodō.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

SHŌRYŪDŌ WELCOME CARD

The Shōryūdō Welcome Card, a discount scheme for overseas tourists that covers hundreds of hotels, restaurants, transport and sightseeing facilities, is valid in the nine prefectures in central Japan: Aichi, Fukui, Gifu, Ishikawa, Mie, Nagano, Shiga, Shizuoka and Toyama. Ask at the main tourist offices for details or go to shoryudo.go-centraljapan.jp/en/about.

Zenkō-ji

善光寺 • 491 Motoyoshi-chō, 2km north of JR station • Daily from 1hr before sunrise until 4.30pm April–Oct; March & Nov 4.15pm, Dec–Feb 4pm • Precinct access free; Naijin ¥500; combined ticket (Naijin, San-mon, O-kaidan & Museum) ¥1000 • 026 234 3591, zenkoji.jp

Still very much the focal point of Nagano, Zenkō-ji was established in 642 AD to hold a remarkable treasure – a Buddhist statue that may have been the first such image ever to reach Japan, and which has remained unseen by anyone for almost fourteen centuries. Factors explaining the temple’s abiding popularity include that it has traditionally welcomed adherents of all Buddhist sects, has never barred women, and is run alternately by an abbot of the Tendai sect and an abbess of the Jōdo sect. You can join the hundreds of daily petitioners searching for the “key to paradise” that lies beneath the main temple building; find it, and you’ll have earned eternal salvation.

Approaching Zenkō-ji

Assuming you approach Zenkō-ji on foot, following the traditional pilgrim route up Nagano’s gently sloping main street, Chūō-dōri, you’ll come first to a short, narrow pedestrian precinct that’s lined with stalls selling snacks and souvenirs. The building to your left is the Daihongan (大本願), the nunnery and residence of the high priestess of Zenkō-ji, who is usually a member of the imperial family. Look out for the courtyard fountain with a statue of Mizuko Jizō, the patron saint of aborted and stillborn babies – little dolls and toys are left as offerings around the base.

The walking route then passes through an impressive 13.6m-tall gate, Niō-mon (仁王門). Beyond that, on the right, the Rokujizō (六地蔵) is a row of six large metal statues that symbolize the guardians of the six worlds through which the soul must pass: hell, starvation, beasts, carnage, human beings and heavenly beings. Daikanjin (大勧進) to the left, reached by crossing an attractive arched bridge, is the home of the high priest.

San-mon and the Zenkō-ji History Museum

Both daily 9am–4pm • ¥500

Visitors pass freely through a towering wooden gateway, the San-mon (山門) or Main Gate, to reach Zenkō-ji’s central courtyard. However, just ¥500 entitles you to climb a steep stairway up to its second storey, which offers sweeping views back down over Nagano. The same ticket also gives access to the Zenkō-ji History Museum, a pagoda off to the left of the main temple, where the statues and paintings on show date largely from the eighteenth century, and are labelled in Japanese only.

Hondō

本堂 • Free; Naijin ¥500

The vast, imposing main hall of Zenkō-ji, the Hondō, dates from 1707. A large metal cauldron, adorned with a lion whose mouth exhales the perfumed smoke of incense sticks, stands in the centre of the temple courtyard. Pilgrims waft the smoke around their bodies to purify themselves before entering the main hall. Once inside, the first thing you encounter is a worn-out statue of Binzuru, a physician and fallen follower of Buddha; devotees with specific ailments rub the relevant body part in the hope of finding a cure. In the awe-inspiring space beyond, where golden ornaments dangle from the high ceiling, pilgrims would formerly bed down for the night.

Make the effort to attend the morning service at Zenkō-ji, which starts before sunrise (5.30–7am depending on time of year), and you’ll witness the temple at its most mystical, with the priests wailing, drums pounding and hundreds of pilgrims joined in fervent prayer. It’s immediately followed by the O-juzu Chōdai ceremony. Dressed in colourful robes, and shaded by a giant red paper umbrella, the high priest or priestess rustles past pilgrims kneeling in the courtyard outside, blessing them by tapping them on the head with prayer beads. For ¥500 you can enter the Naijin, the tatami-matted area nearest to the action, to watch either the morning service or the prayers held at intervals throughout the day. However, you can still get a decent view from further back for free.

O-kaidan

お戒壇 • ¥500; buy tickets from the machines to the right of Binzuru’s statue

A pitch-black passage, known as the O-kaidan and said to house the revered Ikkō Sanzon Amida Nyorai, runs beneath the innermost sanctum of the Hondō. Pilgrims queue to descend the steep staircase, and grope through the dark tunnel – said to symbolize the darkness of death – seeking the metaphorical “key to paradise”. Once you’re in, keep your right hand on the wall, and chances are you’ll find the key (which actually feels more like a doorknob) towards the end of the passage.

Nagano Prefectural Shinano Art Museum

長野県信濃美術館, Nagano-ken Shinano Bijutsukan • 1-4-4 Hakoshimizu • Closed at time of writing; check website for updates • 026 232 0052, npsam.com

A short walk east of Zenkō-ji, across Joyama-kōen, a city park holds the Nagano Prefectural Shinano Art Museum, which holds changing short-term exhibitions. The site is also home to a gallery devoted to the vivid, dreamy landscape paintings of celebrated local artist Higashiyama Kaii (1908–99).

THE IKKŌ SANZON AMIDA NYORAI

The most sacred object in Zenkō-ji, the Ikkō Sanzon Amida Nyorai, is a golden statue that depicts a triad of Amida Buddha images, sharing a single halo. Believed to have been made by Buddha himself in the sixth century BC, it’s said to have arrived in Japan in 552 AD, as a gift to the emperor from Korea. Originally kept in a purpose-built temple near Osaka, it swiftly became the focus of a clan feud, in which the temple was destroyed. The statue was dumped in a nearby canal, only to be rescued in 642 by Honda Yoshimitsu, a poor man who was passing by and apparently heard Buddha call. Honda brought the image back to his home in Nagano (then called Shinano). When news of its recovery reached Empress Kōgyoku, she ordered a temple to be built in its honour, which she named Zenkō-ji after the Chinese reading of Honda’s name. The empress also ordered that the image should never be seen again, so a copy was made. Known as the Meidachi Honzon, this is displayed on every seventh year by the traditional calendar (2015, 2021, 2027) in the grand Gokaichō festival ( gokaicho.com/english), held between early April and late May.

In 2017, both sections were closed for renovation, including entirely replacing the rather tired 1966 building which used to house the main gallery. At time of writing the site was still inaccessible, with plans to reopen in 2021.

Saikō-ji

西光寺 • 1398-1 Kitaishido-chō • Daily sunrise–sunset • Free • 026 226 8436

Not far north of the JR station, the small Saikō-ji is tucked away in a quiet courtyard just off Chūō-dōri. It's also known as Karukaya-san after the Buddhist saint who founded it in 1199. Karukaya left his family to devote himself to Buddhism, and when his son Ishido came looking for him, denied his identity; however, he took the boy under his wing and trained him to follow the path of the Buddha. The main temple building contains two wooden statues of Jizō, the guardian of children, one carved by Karukaya, the other by Ishidō.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NAGANO

By train Nagano’s JR station is a major stop for trains on the Hokuriku Shinkansen line, which connects Tokyo with Kanazawa. It is also connected with Nagoya via Matsumoto, and is a hub for local services around the prefecture. The private Nagano Dentetsu runs trains to Obuse and Yudanaka from its own terminus beneath the JR station complex, while the luxury Rokumon train goes to Karuizawa (around ¥15,000; shinanorailway.co.jp/rokumon_en).

Destinations Kanazawa (every 30min; 1hr 10min); Matsumoto (hourly; 50min); Nagoya (hourly; 3hr); Obuse (every 30min; 24min); Tokyo (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Yudanaka (9 daily; 45min).

By bus Long-distance buses pull in at the Nagano Bus Terminal on Basu Tāminaru-dōri, west of the JR station.

Destinations Hakuba (10 daily; 1hr); Kyoto (1 daily; 8hr); Matsumoto (hourly; 1hr 20min); Niigata (4 daily; 3hr 30min); Nozawa Onsen (5 daily; 1hr 15min); Shinano-Ōmachi (5 daily; 1hr 45min); Togakushi (5 daily; 1hr 30min); Tokyo (hourly; 3hr 40min).

Tourist information Nagano operates an excellent tourist information centre in the station’s main concourse (daily: April–Oct 9am–7pm, Nov–March 9am–6pm; 026 226 5626, en.nagano-cvb.or.jp). Also worth checking out is Go! Nagano ( go-nagano.net/en), which covers the whole prefecture.

Services The Central Post Office is at 1085-4 Minami-Agata (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun & hols 9am–12.30pm; ATM hours longer).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Gururin-go city buses, leaving from platform one on the west side of the JR station, run up the main street, Chūō-dōri, to Zenkō-ji (daily every 15min 9.35am–6.50pm; one-way ¥150).

By car Car rental is available from Eki Rent-a-Car ( ekiren.co.jp, 026 227 8500), beside the Zenkō-ji exit of the JR station.

On foot Nagano is easy to explore on foot; walking the 2km up Chūō-dōri from the station to Zenkō-ji is a great way to get to know the city.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Nagano has plenty of accommodation, with many business hotels clustered close to the station. For a better ambience, or if you want to join the early morning service, it’s best to stay near Zenkō-ji.

1166 Backpackers 1166 バックパッカーズ 1048 Nishimachi 026 217 2816, 1166bp.com/en. Just west of the main street, a 5min walk south of Zenkō-ji, this sociable hostel has a retro design vibe, with a comfortable lounge centred around a large dining/work table. Most of the rooms are dorms, though a private double/triple tatami room is also available; a snack breakfast costs ¥500, as does a bike for the day. Staff are happy to share their local knowledge. Dorms ¥3900, doubles ¥9200

Chisun Grand チサングランド長野 2-17-1 Minamichitose 026 264 6000, solarehotels.com/en. Five minutes’ walk northeast of the station, and offering large rooms geared towards foreign visitors, plus helpful staff, free tea and coffee in the lobby, and good-value ¥1500 buffet breakfasts in the panoramic twelfth-floor restaurant. ¥11,000

Jizōkan Matsuya Ryokan 地蔵館松屋旅館 Zenkō-ji Kannai 026 232 2811, jizoukanmatuyaryokan.work/en-gb. Charming traditional ryokan within the Zenkō-ji precinct, offering air-conditioned, paper-screened tatami rooms with and without private bathrooms. The staff speak little English, but cheerfully serve Japanese breakfasts (¥1650) and dinners (¥3500) on request. ¥12,200

Kokusai 21 ホテル国際２1 576 Agata-machi 026 234 1111, kokusai21.jp/lang/en. This contemporary business hotel, around a 15min walk up from the station, makes a rather anonymous place to stay, but its well-appointed rooms are surprisingly spacious, and it has a good selection of restaurants, plus great views from the sixteenth-floor bar and free bike rental. Buffet breakfast ¥1700 extra. ¥11,600

Nagano Tokyu REI Hotel 長野東急REIホテル 1-28-3 Minamichitose 026 223 1090, www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/nagano-r. Well-designed business hotel opposite the station, with friendly staff and a good buffet breakfast (¥1400). Rooms are a decent size for Japan, and the location couldn't be more convenient. ¥10,100

Shimizuya Ryokan 清水屋旅館 49 Daimon-chō 026 232 2580, chuoukan-shimizuya.com. Serviceable, foreigner-friendly ryokan in a very handy location on the approach to Zenkō-ji. You can reserve the public bath for private use. Breakfast is available for ¥1000, and dinner is around ¥3000 (book in advance). ¥12,000

World Trek Guesthouse Pise ワールドトレックゲストハウスピセ 2-1 Higashigo-chō 026 214 5656, nagano-guesthouse.com. Budget accommodation on the main street, in the form of very basic capsule-style dormitory beds (women-only dorm ¥200 extra) and private rooms, at the back of a hip bar-restaurant that even has its own climbing wall. Rates include one free beer, while rental bicycles cost ¥1000 per day. Dorms ¥3000, doubles ¥7000

EATING MAP

Chūō-dōri holds plenty of places to eat, with handmade soba as the most conspicuous local dish. To sample shōjin ryōri, the vegetarian cuisine prepared for the monks, head for the area around Zenkō-ji, while smaller take-out places are scattered along the long, covered Gondō arcade, which runs east of Chūō-dōri.

Di Punto ディプント 1-28-3 Minamichitose 026 217 5899, dipunto.wine/shop/nagano-ekimae. The menu at this Italian restaurant is designed to go well with their wine selection, and includes well-prepared versions of classic meat, seafood and pasta dishes. The cheeseboard (¥1800), with a mix of international and Japanese cheeses, is a rare treat in Japan. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Fujiya Gohonjin 藤屋御本陳 80 Daimon-chō 026 232 1241, thefujiyagohonjin.com/en. This elegant Meiji-era hotel has been spruced up with a snazzy contemporary design and turned into a very sophisticated Italian restaurant, serving authentic Mediterranean food including al dente pasta and rustic meat and fish dishes. Set dinner menus start at ¥1900 at lunchtime, and ¥5400 (weekdays) or ¥7800 (weekends) for dinner. Their café-bar overlooking traditional gardens is a lovely place to relax with a drink. Mon–Fri 11.30am–3pm & 5.30–10pm, Sat & Sun 7–10pm.

Ichiryū Manpei 一粒万平 52-1 Daimon-chō 026 234 8255. Fresh local vegetables – especially mushrooms – abound in the wholesome meals prepared at this main-street restaurant, popular with locals and tourists. The lunchtime buffet clocks in at a reasonable ¥1600. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 4.30–7pm.

Jūwari Soba Daizen 十割そば大善 46-1 Daimon-chō 026 233 5002, daizen-soba.com. Excellent, unpretentious little noodle restaurant near Zenko-ji. It specialises in jūwari soba, made with 100 percent buckwheat flour; as such, switch the dipping sauce for salt (or bring your own), and the cold noodles are fine for diners on a gluten-free diet. Allow about ¥800 per person. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–3pm (hols from 10.30am).

Mankatei 萬佳亭 2502 Higashinomon-chō 0120 327 089, mankatei.com. Enjoy the fine dishes, including sashimi, tempura and delicate noodles, served by waitresses in elegant kimono, and the twinkling cityscape views at this classy restaurant east of Zenkō-ji, on the edge of Joyama-kōen, overlooking the downtown area. Lunch from ¥1650 (¥3800 for the cheapest kaiseki menu), ¥3100 and up for dinner. Daily 11am–2pm & 5–9pm.

Patio Daimon ぱてぃお大門 54 Daimon-chō patio-daimon.com/english. Complex of restaurants and shops, all housed in restored, white-walled kura (storehouses), where Chūō-dōri meets Route 406. Most tastes and budgets are catered for, from a cheerful café specializing in tofu-based sweets to a private tea house, while the central courtyard is often used for concerts. Hours vary.

Yamajaya やま茶屋 1315 Tsuruga Toigo-shōmachi 026 233 3900, yama39.com. Tasteful traditional restaurant serving delicious mountain cuisine, one block south of the Gondō pedestrian arcade, and 600m south of Zenkō-ji. A meaty duck hotpot, rich in local mushrooms, costs ¥2000; set meals start at ¥4000 in the evening. Mon–Sat 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–10pm, Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Nagano’s nightlife is concentrated in two main areas: the tangle of lanes that connect the JR station with Chūō-dōri, and around Gondō, with small bars clustered at the eastern end of the arcade, and a summer-only beer garden atop Gondō’s Dentetsu-line station. Patio Daimon also has a couple of bars worth checking out.

India Za Supaisu INDIA ザすぱいす 1418 Minamiishido-chō 026 226 6136, spice.owst.jp/en. Crammed with clocks, keepsakes and conversation pieces, the quirky, lively café-pub that is India Za Supaisu, just off the southern end of Chūō-dōri, is better seen as a drinking den than a place to eat, despite its menu of curries and omelettes. Beer’s half-price during the generous 4.30–6.30pm happy “hour”. Mon–Thurs noon–2pm & 5pm–midnight, Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat & Sun noon–midnight.

Around Nagano

In the heart of the Japan Alps, and often dubbed “the rooftop of Japan”, the area around Nagano boasts dramatic scenery which provides a perfect location for nature-based activities. It is also worth taking time to visit some of the area’s small towns for their distinctive attractions. Togakushi, the training ground for the legendary ninja warriors, makes an enjoyable trip, while the lovely little town of Obuse is a centre for refined culture and cuisine.

Togakushi

戸隠

The alpine area of Togakushi, 20km northwest of Nagano and famous for its role in ninja history, lies within the jagged ridge of Togakushi-yama and Iizuna-yama. As well as great scenery, there’s a worthwhile museum and a legendary shrine. In winter, there’s good skiing.

Togakushi Minzoku-kan

戸隠民族館 • 3688-12 Togakushi • Late April to mid-Nov daily 9am–5pm • ¥600, under-16s ¥400 • 026 254 2395, togakushi-ninja.com

The Togakushi Minzoku-kan (Togakushi Folk Museum) is a museum complex of traditional farm buildings, some of which have exhibits on the ninja warriors who once trained here. Within the complex, the Togakure-ryū Ninpō Shiryōkan (Ninja Museum) displays amazing photographs of the stealthy fighters in action and examples of their lethal weapons. The Ninja Karakuri Yashiki (Ninja Trick Mansion) next door is great fun, with a maze of hidden doors and staircases that is fiendishly difficult to find your way out of.

Togakushi Okusha

戸隠奥社 • 3690 Togakushi • Daily 9.30am–5pm • Free • 026 254 2001, togakushi-jinja.jp

The entrance to Togakushi Okusha, the innermost of the three main sanctuaries of the Togakushi Shrine, faces Togakushi Minzoku-kan. According to ancient Shintō belief, Togakushi-yama was created when the god Ame-no-Tajikarao tossed away the rock door of the cave where the Sun Goddess Amaterasu had been hiding. A 2km-long corridor of soaring cedar trees leads you from the middle shrine (Chusha) to the upper shrine (Okusha) – a collection of small wooden and stone buildings under the rocks. The adventurous can continue up the sharp ridge to the summit; it’s a strenuous route, so take food, water and appropriate clothing, and log your name in the book at the start of the trail.

NINJA: THE SHADOW WARRIORS

Long before their ancient martial art was nabbed by a bunch of cartoon turtles, the ninja were Japan’s most feared warriors, employed by lords as assassins and spies. They practised Ninjutsu, “the art of stealth”, which emphasized non-confrontational methods of combat. Dressed in black, ninja moved like fleeting shadows and used weapons such as shuriken (projectile metal stars) and kusarikama (a missile with a razor-sharp sickle on one end of a chain), examples of which are displayed in the Togakushi Minzoku-kan.

According to legend, Ninjutsu was developed in the twelfth century, when the warrior Togakure Daisuke retreated to the mountain forests of Iga, near Nara, and met Kain Dōshi, a monk on the run from political upheaval in China. Togakure studied Dōshi’s fighting ways, and his descendants developed them into the Togakure-ryū school of Ninjutsu. By the fifteenth century, there were some fifty family-based Ninjutsu schools across Japan, each jealously guarding their techniques.

Although the need for ninja declined while Japan was under the peaceful rule of the Shogunate, the Tokugawa had their own force of Ninjutsu-trained warriors for protection. One ninja, Sawamura Yasusuke, even managed to sneak into the “black ship” of Commodore Perry in 1853 to spy on the foreign barbarians. Today, the Togakure-ryū school of Ninjutsu, emphasizing defence rather than offence, is taught by the 34th master, Hatsumi Masaaki, in Noda, Chiba-ken, just north of Tokyo.

Head downhill from Togakushi Okusha along pleasant woodland trails through the Togakushi Ōmine Recreational Forest, and you’ll come to the attractive village of CHŪSHA (中社), a good base for skiing in winter; it was named for the middle shrine of Togakushi-jinja which is located here. Two kilometres further down is the outer sanctuary (or Hōkōsha宝光社; 24hr; free), decorated with intricate wooden carvings. Throughout the area you'll see many shops selling the local crafts, including baskets and other woven bamboo goods.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOGAKUSHI

The Togakushi Kogen Free Kippu (¥2600) covers a return trip from Nagano, use of buses in Togakushi and one additional Nagano bus ride between the station and Zenkō-ji, and is valid for five consecutive days.

By bus Buses (hourly, 50min–1hr 10min; ¥1150–1350 one-way, some discounts available on return tickets; www.alpico.co.jp/en) leave from outside the Alpico bus office, opposite Nagano train station, and run along the vertiginous Bird-line Driveway, giving panoramic views as they wind up into the mountains. The bus stops at Hōkōsha, Chūsha, then Togakushi Okusha.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Togakushi Kōgen Yokokura Youth Hostel 戸隠高原横倉ユースホステル 3347 Chusha 026 254 2030, bit.ly/togakushihostel. This excellent-value hostel, a 5min walk south of the Chūsha shrine, offers tatami dorms in a thatched, 150-year-old pilgrim’s lodge. There’s a quaint log-cabin café, with breakfast costing ¥770 and dinner ¥1280, and the owner is a hospitable woman who speaks some English. Dorms ¥3700

Uzuraya うずらや 3229 Togakushi 026 254 2219. Togakushi’s top restaurant for freshly made soba and tempura, occupying a thatched farmhouse opposite the Chūsha shrine on the main road. It offers a range of dishes starting around ¥800. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10.30am–4pm.

Yamabōshi やまぼうし 3511-18 Togakushi 026 254 2624. The excellent Italian cuisine (main dishes ¥1300 and up) and home-made desserts at this cosy restaurant, just north of the Chūsha shrine, are almost worth making the journey for on their own. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10.30am–6pm.

Alamy

JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK

Obuse

小布施

Famous for its connection with the artist Hokusai and for its production of chestnuts, OBUSE, 16km northeast of Nagano, ranks among the most attractive small towns in Japan. Its central streets especially, around the venerable Masuichi-Ichimura estate and brewery, have been beautified, their pavements relaid with blocks of chestnut wood. Old buildings have been spruced up to hold excellent restaurants, bars and a super-stylish hotel, and many residents take part in an open garden scheme.

Exploring Obuse, which is surrounded by orchards and vineyards and dotted with traditional houses, temples, small museums and craft galleries, can make the focus of wonderful day-trip. Be wary during prime chestnut season, though, in September and October, when Obuse is often heaving with coach parties during the day. Ideally, you’d stay overnight, and perhaps use Obuse as a base for trips around the area, including to the nearby Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Hokusai-kan

北斎館 • 485 Obuse • Daily: July & Aug 9am–6pm; Sept–June 9am–5pm • ¥1000 • 026 247 5206, hokusai-kan.com/en

The Hokusai-kan, tucked away in a slightly confusing pedestrianized area just off Obuse’s main street, is a museum devoted to the great master of ukiyo-e woodblock prints, Katsushika Hokusai. In 1842, by which time he was well into his eighties, the artist was invited to live and work in Obuse by Takai Kōzan, the town’s leading merchant and art lover. In a thatch-roofed studio especially built to suit his needs, Hokusai completed four paintings for the ceilings of two breathtaking festival floats that are now preserved in the museum. One is decorated with a dragon and a phoenix, the other with “masculine” and “feminine” variations of Hokusai’s familiar wave motif. The museum’s remaining galleries display other works by Hokusai, including painted scrolls, delicate watercolours and woodblock prints, along with changing exhibitions by other artists.

Takai Kōzan Kinenkan

高井鴻山記念館 • 805-1 Ōaza • Daily: July & Aug 9am–6pm; Sept–June 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 026 247 4049

The Takai Kōzan Kinenkan, the atmospheric home of Hokusai’s patron, stands in the Masuichi-Ichimura compound, near the Hokusai-kan. Takai Kōzan was himself an accomplished artist and calligrapher, and his intriguing drawings of ghosts and goblins were intended as ironic comments on the turbulent early Meiji-era years. One room holds long banners inscribed with kanji characters, as well as the 2.5m-long brush used to paint them.

Obuse Museum

おぶせミュージアム • 595 Obuse • Daily: July & Aug 9am–6pm; Sept–June 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 026 247 6111

The highlight of the delightful Obuse Museum is the gallery devoted to a changing but ongoing exhibition of the colourful works of contemporary artist Nakajima Chinami (born 1945). Five of the town’s traditional festival floats are also on show, complemented by successive temporary art exhibitions.

Ganshōin

岩松院 • 615 Karida • Daily: April–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov 9am–4.30pm; Dec–March 9.30am–4pm • ¥300 • 026 247 5504

During his years in Obuse, Hokusai painted a giant mural of a phoenix for the ceiling of the red-roofed Ganshōin, which occupies a superbly verdant location at the foot of the mountains 2km east of the centre. Towards the end of his life, Hokusai dedicated his energies to creating paintings rather than prints, and it’s well worth walking out here to admire this dramatic and little-known masterpiece.

Follow the well-marked footpath that wends its way south from Ganshōin, between the fields and the foothills, and after ten minutes you’ll reach the wonderfully ancient Jōkō-ji (浄光寺; daily 9am–5pm). Built in 1408, this dark, thatched shrine stands high in the woods, atop a steep cobbled stairway.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION OBUSE

The Common Admission Ticket (Sankan Kyōtsū Nyūjōken; ¥1300) covers entry to the Obuse Museum, Hokusai-kan and Takai Kōzan Kinenkan.

By train Trains from Nagano, on the Nagano Dentetsu line, stop at Obuse Station (hourly, 25–35min; ¥670–770), 10min walk from the centre.

Tourist information Obuse’s visitor centre, at the station (daily 9am–5pm; 026 214 6300, obusekanko.jp), distributes an excellent English-language map and guide, and doubles as a café. You can also pick up information at A La Obuse guide centre & café, at the central crossroads (April–Nov daily 9am–5pm, Dec–March Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–4pm; 026 247 5050).

GETTING AROUND

By bus From March to Nov (Daily 9.30am–5pm; March to mid-April & June to mid-July Sat & Sun only), an hourly shuttle bus makes a circuit of the town’s sights – an all-day ticket costs ¥500. Buy tickets from the visitor centre or main sights, not on the bus.

By bike The town centre is small enough to walk around, but rental bicycles, available at the station, the youth hostel and several other outlets (around ¥400/2hr, then ¥100/hr extra), make a great way to reach the outlying temples and countryside.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Akebi-no-yu あけびの湯 1311 Obuse-machi 026 247 4880, obuse-akebinoyu.co.jp. Thanks to its hillside location, 2km southeast of the centre, rooms in this modern ryokan enjoy splendid mountain views. Guests can relax in the adjoining onsen baths for free (daily 6–8.30am & 10am–10pm; ¥600 for non-guests). Add breakfast for around ¥500 per person, dinner ¥2000. ¥22,000

Masuichi Kyakuden 桝一客殿 815 Obuse-machi 026 247 1111, kyakuden.jp. This luxury hotel, which incorporates three kura moved from Nagano city and a central koi-filled pond, owes its chic contemporary style to John Morford, the interior designer of Tokyo’s celebrated Park Hyatt. As well as twelve sublimely peaceful modern rooms, several of which have terraces, it holds great restaurants and bars. Rates include breakfast. ¥39,600

Obuse no Kaze Youth Hostel おぶせの風ユースホステル 475-2 Higashimachi 026 247 4489, obusenokaze.travel.coocan.jp. Run by a hospitable family, this youth hostel is a great budget choice; it’s close to the Hokusai-kan, and offers guests a choice between Western-style dorms or tatami rooms, as well as private rooms. No credit cards. Discounts available for students. Dorms ¥4620, doubles ¥9240

Vent Vert ヴァンヴェール 34-8 Obuse-machi 026 247 5512, obusenoyado.com. Located above a cute French brasserie, which serves all meals daily (on an outdoor terrace when weather permits), Vent Vert is a small hotel which holds four nicely designed en-suite Western-style rooms. Breakfast around ¥700 extra, dinner ¥3300. ¥15,400

SAKE AND CHESTNUTS

You can sample the four excellent sakes brewed by Masuichi-Ichimura (桝一市村), and a few others, at the teppa counter in the brewery’s shop (807 Obuse; daily 9.30am–5pm; ¥150–320; 026 247 2011, masuichi.com). Try Hakkin, which is still brewed in huge cedar barrels the old-fashioned, labour-intensive way – hence its high price at ¥10,800 per bottle. Around the corner, you can sip award-winning sake for free in Obuse’s other brewery, Matsubaya (松葉屋本店; 778 Nakamachi; daily 9am–6pm; 026 247 2019, matsubaya-honten.co.jp).

Masuichi’s sister company, Obusedō (小布施堂; 808 Obuse; daily 9am–5pm; obusedo.com), is just one of several chestnut confectioners in town battling it out for the public’s sweet tooth. Others are Chikufudō (竹風堂; 973 Obuse; daily, April–Oct 8am–7pm, Nov–March 8am–6pm; 026 247 2569, chikufudo.com) and Kanseidō (桜井甘精堂; 774 Obuse; daily 8.30am–6pm; 026 247 1088, kanseido.co.jp), both of which have restaurants, open shorter hours, that serve meals featuring the sweet nut.

EATING MAP

Obuse being such a popular day-trip destination, lunch is the most important meal for local restaurants; book ahead if you can, or at least call in earlier in the morning to reserve a table.

The Club 蔵部 815 Obuse-machi 026 247 5300, kyakuden.jp. The most animated and convivial of the restaurants at Masuichi Kyakuden, The Club has an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work preparing a good range of local meat and fish dishes to complement their sakes. From around ¥2000, excluding drinks. Daily 11am–10pm (last orders 8pm).

Obuse Hanaya 花屋 506-1 Obuse-machi 026 247 1187. Delightful restaurant and café, on the east side of town beside the Floral Garden, using fresh local produce Western-style meals (lunch from ¥1000, dinner from ¥3000). Ask in advance for fully vegetarian meals. Bookings required for dinner. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 11am–4pm & 6–9pm, Wed 11am–4pm.

Obusedō Honten 小布施堂本店 815 Obuse-machi 026 247 2027, kyakuden.jp. Part of the Masuichi Kyakuden business, and behind the confectionery shop of the same name, this Zen-calm restaurant offers a kaiseki ryōri-style menu, from ¥2970, which changes monthly but always centres on local delicacies, especially chestnuts. Dinner (by reservation only, sittings begin 6–8pm) is only available for Masuichi Kyakuden guests, but anyone can drop by for lunch, or drinks and chestnut sweets in the café section. Daily: restaurant 11am–3pm; café 10am–4pm.

Senseki-tei 泉石亭 779 Obuse-machi 026 247 5166, kanseido.co.jp/shop/senseki. Appealing restaurant, overlooking an exquisite ornamental garden, where chestnuts figure large in the wide range of set menus, starting around ¥1000. Mon & Wed–Sun 10.30am–6pm (last orders).

The Nagano-ken mountains

The mountains of Nagano-ken are home to several ski resorts and onsen villages, including the delightful Nozawa Onsen, self-proclaimed home of Japanese skiing; Hakuba, a valley with seven different ski resorts; and Shiga Kōgen, Japan’s largest skiing area. This lies within the Jōshin’etsu Kōgen National Park, which is also home to Jigokudani Monkey Park, famous for its snow monkeys, which splash about in their own rotemburo.

Nozawa Onsen

野沢温泉

Even though international word is out on how great the skiing is at NOZAWA ONSEN, this village of four thousand people maintains a traditional atmosphere. It has nestled at the base of Kenashi-yama (1650m), 50km northeast of Nagano, for over a thousand years. The ski resort (late Nov to early May; one-day lift pass ¥5200, with occasional discounts; nozawaski.com/en) is family-friendly, has lots of English signs and offers varied terrain that will put all levels through their paces. If at all possible, time your visit to coincide with the spectacular Dōso-jin fire festival, held on January 15.

Ō-yu bathhouse

大湯 • 9328 Toyosato • Daily: April–Nov 5am–11pm; Dec–March 6am–11pm • Free

Thirteen bathhouses, all lovingly tended by the locals, are dotted along the narrow, twisting streets of Nozawa. The most impressive, Ō-yu (literally "the great bath"), is housed in a temple-like wooden building in the centre of the village, complete with a trio of statues of the Buddha of Healing and his two attendant bodhisattvas. Each side of the building has two pools, one of which is so hot that it’s almost impossible to get into. Note that no amenities are provided at any of the public baths, which are all free and open at the same times as listed above.

Japan Ski Museum

日本スキー博物館, Nihon Sukii Hakubutsukan • 8270 Toyosato • Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–4pm • ¥300 • 026 985 3418

Nozawa claims to be the birthplace of Japanese skiing, as the spot where, in 1930, Hannes Schneider – an Austrian who popularized the two-pole technique – gave skiing demonstrations to awestruck crowds. One of the resort’s most tricky runs is named after Schneider, and photos of the man in action, impeccably dressed in suit and tie, can be seen in the interesting little Japan Ski Museum, a white, church-like building at the bottom of the Hikage slope. Other exhibits include pre-war skiing equipment, and medals and memorabilia from the 1998 Winter Olympics.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NOZAWA ONSEN

By train JR Iiyama line runs from Toyono Station in Nagano to Togari-Nozawa-Onsen Station (1hr; ¥710), a 20min bus (¥310) or taxi ride (¥3000) from Nozawa Onsen itself. The Shinkansen between Tokyo and Kanazawa stops at Iiyama Station, just north of Nagano, with onwards connections on the Nozawa Onsen Liner Bus or JR Iiyama line.

By bus Direct buses run from Iiyama (Nozawa Onsen Liner; 20min, ¥600) and, in ski season only, from Tokyo’s Narita Airport (5hr 30min; ¥10,900).

Tourist information Nozawa Onsen’s tourist information centre (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 026 985 3155, nozawakanko.jp/en) is opposite the central bus terminal.

ACCOMMODATION

In addition to the individual options listed below, it’s well worth checking out foreigner-friendly local operators Nozawa Holidays ( 026 985 3272, nozawaholidays.com), who can arrange all forms of accommodation, from self-catering apartments to traditional inns.

Pension Schnee ペンションシュネー 8276 Toyosato 026 985 2012, pensionschnee.com. Pretty European-style chalet in a superb ski-in, ski-out location on the mountainside. It’s run by a friendly couple who were Olympic competitors, and rooms are named after resorts that have hosted the winter games. Breakfast and dinner are available for an extra fee. Wi-fi is available on the restaurant floor, but not in rooms. ¥18,200

Ryokan Sakaya 旅館さかや 9329 Toyosato 026 985 3119, ryokan-sakaya.com. This elegant luxury ryokan, behind the Ō-yu bathhouse, has its own spacious indoor and outdoor baths and a choice of Western- or Japanese-style rooms. The service is attentive and warm. Rates include a Japanese breakfast; dinner available for around ¥4000 per person. ¥35,200

Sumiyosiya Nozawaonsen 住吉屋野沢温泉 8713 Toyosato 026 985 2005, sumiyosiya.com. Gorgeous historic ryokan, updated with contemporary furnishings and offering immaculate, tasteful Japanese-style rooms in gleaming wood, some fully en suite, plus its own traditional bathhouse in classic style. Japanese-style breakfast and exquisite multi-course dinner available (around ¥3000 and ¥9100 per person). ¥33,000

EATING AND DRINKING

For a snack, try local speciality onsen manjū, deliciously plump dumplings usually filled with red bean paste; buy them in wooden steam-boxes from the street vendors. Nozawa Onsen has more in the way of après-ski than many Japanese ski resorts, with a few good bars, but don’t expect Euro-style nightlife.

Foot フット 9517 Toyosato 026 985 4004. Sports bar, on the main street, that makes a great rendezvous for an après-ski drink, with friendly staff and table football. Also does good takoyaki. Daily 3–11.30pm.

Libushi 里武士 9347 Toyosato 080 6930 3992, libushi.com. Excellent microbrewery in the centre of town, with a laidback taproom where you can try the latest brews and a range of world beers. Fri 4–10pm, Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–7pm.

Panorama House Buna パノラマハウスぶな 8376-136 Toyosato 026 985 3894, facebook.com/nozawaonsen.buna. As well as great panoramic views, this slope-side restaurant serves a ¥1000 curry udon that makes it worth going up the mountain, even if you don’t ski. Daily 9.30am–4pm (when lifts are running).

Yoshimi Shokudō 良味食堂 8757 Toyosato 026 985 2497. Yoshimi Shokudō is a fine place to sample the local noodles; the menu is also replete with hearty stews and curries to build you up for another day on the slopes. Most dishes cost around ¥1000. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–3pm & 5–10pm, Thurs 11am–3pm.

Hakuba

白馬

Situated in the dramatic northern Japan Alps, 45km west of Nagano, HAKUBA is one of Japan’s top ski destinations, with assorted terrain spread across the valley in seven main ski areas and plenty of fun après-ski. The largest and most popular is Happō-one (八方尾根; www.happo-one.jp), site of the 1998 Nagano Olympics downhill course. Hakuba 47 ( hakuba47.co.jp), on the other hand, which links to the Goryū (五竜; hakubagoryu.com) and Limori (飯森) areas, is good for snowboarding and freestyle skiing with a terrain park, halfpipe and tree-skiing zone.

With two very pretty lakes – Aoki and Kizaki – the Hakuba valley also makes a fine base for rafting, biking and other outdoor pursuits in summer.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE HAKUBA

By train There’s no direct rail line from Nagano; express trains along the JR Ōito line from Matsumoto (connected to Tokyo by the JR Chūō line) take around an hour.

By bus Frequent buses connect Nagano with Hakuba (1hr 45min; ¥2000–2200; alpico.co.jp/en) as well as up to four daily direct buses from Shinjuku, Tokyo (5hr; ¥45–5600). In winter, the ski resort sometimes runs a free bus service from Nagano (check hakuba47.co.jp), while a shuttle service runs to Hakuba from Narita and Haneda airports (6hr; ¥9900; naganosnowshuttle.com).

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information The tourist office (daily 8am–6pm; 026 172 6900, hakubavalley.com), on the left as you exit JR Hakuba Station, will look after your bags for around ¥400. Hakuba Connect ( hakubaconnect.com) offers good English-language information on ski areas.

Activities Ski Japan Holidays ( 026 172 6663, japanspecialists.com) can arrange ski trips and tours to nearby attractions. The reliable Evergreen Outdoor Center ( 026 172 5150, evergreen-outdoors.com) offers rafting and mountain biking in summer, and backcountry ski expeditions in winter.

ACCOMMODATION

New places to stay seem to appear every year. In addition to those listed below, check out the chalets and backpacker lodge deals offered by Snowbeds Travel ( 039 555 4839, skijapantravel.com).

Azekura Sansō あぜくら山荘 Wadano 026 172 5238, en.azekura.com. Smart, modern log house, in the Happō ski area, offering a calm, comfortable retreat and its own rotemburo, a few kilometres from the base station. Work for five hours at the lodge, and your day’s accommodation and meals are covered. Breakfast is around ¥1000, lunch ¥1200, dinner ¥3500; discounts are available for long stays. ¥15,600

K’s House Hakuba Alps ケイズハウス白馬アルプス 22201-36 Kamishiro 026 175 4445, kshouse.jp/hakuba-e. This appealing Kamishiro budget option, less than a 10min walk from Goryū, replicates the successful formula of the Kyoto and Tokyo hostel operations. As well as mixed six-bed dorms, they offer Western- and Japanese-style private doubles, with en-suite facilities, and there’s a full kitchen. Discount for long stays. Dorms ¥3800, doubles ¥9800

Maison de Sasagawa めぞん・ど・ささがわ 4620 Hokujo Hakubamura 261 72 2386, maisondesasagawa.net/english. You become part of the family at this friendly lodge in the woods of Wadano, a 4min walk from the Happō-one base station. The owners, locals who grew up skiing hereabouts, make you very welcome, and will pick you up from the station and take you to the supermarket. Basic, comfortable Japanese or Western-style rooms, plus cosy communal areas and a well-equipped kitchen. Breakfast ¥500. Discounts for long stays. Dorms ¥4500, doubles ¥11,000

Morino Lodge 森のロッヂ 4692-3 Wadano 026 185 9098, morinolodge.com. Smart lodge in Wadano, run by Scottish and Canadian owners and a 15min walk from the Happō-one base station, with stylish, modern Western rooms, dormitories, and a large open-plan lounge with pleasing design touches. Rates rise late Dec to early Feb, and fall mid-March to late Dec. Breakfast included. Dorms ¥5000, doubles ¥27,000

EATING

Restaurants and cafés are scattered along the valley; in high ski season, the Genki-go night shuttle-bus makes it easy to reach whichever strikes your fancy (late Dec to mid-Feb; ¥300).

Gravity Worx グラヴィティー ワークス 6305 Hokujo 026 172 5434. In a big log cabin, a minute’s walk from Hakuba Station, this long-established café-bar is run by welcoming English-speaking staff and serves excellent home-made pizza starting under ¥1000, plus pasta, salads and desserts. Hours vary in the off season. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–8pm.

Pizzakaya Country Road カントリーロード 22404-1 Kamishiro 026 175 2889. Near Kamishiro Station, this friendly, relaxed place offers tasty pasta and pizzas for around ¥1000, incorporating local ingredients such as mountain vegetables, and Japanese flavours like seaweed and spicy cod roe. Tues–Sun 6–11pm.

Shouya Maruhachi 庄屋丸八 11032 Hokujo 026 175 1008, shouyamaruhachi.jp/en. Handsome merchant’s house, built in 1854 and recently restored, and just a short walk from Shinano Morue Station towards the Hakuba Iwatake ski area. Shouya Maruhachi specializes in robataytaki (grilled foods), but the shrimp ramen (¥900) and "Hakuba sea of clouds" sashimi platter (¥1680) are also worth trying – not that you can really go wrong with the choices here. Mon– Wed & Fri–Sun 5pm–midnight.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

For après-ski and evening drinks, the Echoland strip between Hakuba Ski Jumping Stadium and Hakuba 47 is the most popular area.

Hakuba Brew Pub 白馬ビールのパブ 11420-1 Hokujo 026 185 2414, hakubabrewpub.com. Convivial brewpub at the base of the Iwatake ski area, with local beer (made with spring water that originally fell as snow on the slopes) on tap, plus bottled world beers and standard pub grub. They’re on the night-time bus route, but also offer a free local shuttle service. Late Dec to mid-March daily noon–10.30pm.

Master Braster マスターブラスター B1 3020-352 Hokujo 026 172 2679, masterbraster.favy.jp. A basement reggae bar that can get lively, with suitably chilled music and bongo playing encouraged. On the menu at Master Brewer includes all kinds of Caribbean-flavoured dishes, from jerk chicken to ackee and salt fish, priced at around ¥1000, while you can sip away on imported Red Stripe as well as Japanese draught beers. Wed–Sun 7pm–1am.

Shiga Kōgen

志賀高原

The often-heard complaint that Japanese ski resorts are too small certainly doesn’t apply to mammoth SHIGA KŌGEN, active in winter only and consisting of eighteen resorts strung out along the Shiga plateau in the Jōshin’etsu Kōgen National Park, 20km northeast of Nagano. The huge variety of terrain makes the one-day lift pass (¥5500), which covers the entire lift network, terrific value. It takes several days to ski the whole area; if you’re short of time, head for the northern end of the mountain range to the resorts at Okushiga-kōgen (奥志賀高原) and Yakebitai-yama (焼額山), which hosted the slalom events during the 1998 Olympics.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHIGA KŌGEN

By train From Yudanaka Station (湯田中; frequent, 40min from Nagano; ¥1260), on the Nagano Dentetsu line, connecting buses head up to the ski resorts (hourly, 30min; ¥840), via a stunning mountain pass and Jigokudani Monkey Park.

By bus Direct buses run to Shiga Kōgen from the east exit of Nagano Station (3 daily; 1hr 15min; ¥1800; nagadenbus.co.jp).

Tourist information Shiga Kōgen Tourism Association ( 026 934 2404, www.shigakogen.gr.jp/en).

ACCOMMODATION

Okushiga Kōgen Hotel 奥志賀高原ホテル 026 934 2034, okushigakogen.com/en. Sizeable hotel, in front of the ski slopes, which offers Western-style rooms. Amenities include a restaurant serving a buffet dinner and breakfast, cocktail lounge with an open fireplace, big public baths and on-site ski rental. Rates include breakfast. ¥23,000

Shiga Kōgen Prince Hotel 志賀高原プリンスホテル Yakebitai-yama 026 934 3111, princehotels.com/en/shiga. Large resort hotel, at the foot of Yakebitai-yama, with three separate wings: the eastern part sports retro 1980s glamour, while the slightly cheaper west wing, with its big outdoor bath, is geared to families and groups. ¥11,000

Jigokudani Monkey Park

地獄谷野猿公苑, Jigokudani Yaen-kōen • 6845 Yamanouchi-machi • Daily: April–Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–March 9am–4pm • ¥800, under-18s ¥400 • 026 933 4379, jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp

Famous internationally since appearing on the cover of Life magazine back in 1970, Japan’s iconic “snow monkeys” are based in Jigokudani Monkey Park, 32km northeast of Nagano. They’re actually a troupe of around two hundred Japanese macaques (nihon-zaru) that have acquired the understandable habit of bathing in hot pools located just uphill from KANBAYASHI ONSEN (上林温泉). Compellingly photogenic, and utterly indifferent to the human commotion that surrounds them, they first started taking dips here during the 1960s, when a local ryokan owner took pity on them and left food out in winter (they were venturing out of the forest more frequently, in part due to habitat destruction). These days, a special rotemburo is devoted to their exclusive use; naturally they spend most time in it in winter, but they live beside the onsen year-round.

Jigokudani Monkey Park makes an easy day-trip from Nagano – with an early enough start, you can even visit Obuse on the way home – or, in winter, a stop-off en route to or from Shiga Kōgen. It’s hardly a wilderness destination, with the onsen resort so close by, but there’s a real sense of rural adventure to the half-hour walk up through the woods from the nearest road.

It's a popular attraction, but arriving early or staying as late as possible does much to avoid the crowds. Take care not to miss the last bus, though (about 30min walk from the park), unless you're staying at one of the nearby onsen hotels.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK

The Snow Monkey Pass (¥3500, under-12s ¥1750) covers unlimited use of Nagano Dentetsu trains and buses in the area for two days, plus entry to the Monkey Park. You can buy it from the Dentetsu ticket window at Nagano Station.

By train Frequent trains on the Nagano Dentetsu line from Nagano terminate in Yudanaka (湯田中; express 45min, ¥1290; local 1hr 10min, ¥1190; Japan Rail Pass not valid), where passengers are steered onto buses bound for the Kanbayashi Onsen or Snow monkey Park bus stops (hourly, 15min; ¥210). The park itself is a 2km uphill walk from the bus stops; set off and you’ll soon spot signs.

By bus Direct buses run from Nagano to Snow Monkey Park bus stop (4 daily, more in winter; 40min; ¥1400).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Most accommodation in the area is in Shibu Onsen, a charming hot spring resort town just 30min walk from the Monkey Park. It also has several public baths – eight out of nine of them only open to guests staying overnight. Anyone who manages to do the full bathhouse tour, collecting a stamp at each one, is said to be blessed with good luck.

Enza Café 円座町カフェ 1421-1 Hirao 026 938 1736, bit.ly/enzacafe. Large modern café, open to the breezes in summer, at the start of the trail up to the monkey park. As well as espresso coffees and fresh juices, they serve full meals, including chicken-broth noodles for under ¥1000. Daily 9.30am–5pm.

Kanbayashi Hotel Senjukaku 上林ホテル仙壽閣 1410 Hirao 026 933 3551, senjukaku.com/en. Elegant, traditional inn, amid the trees in Kanbayashi Onsen, that’s a great place to indulge yourself. The tatami rooms are spacious and luxurious, and the outdoor baths set amid bamboo and rocks. Rates include breakfast and dinner; local produce, including Shinshu beef from apple-fed cows, features high on the menu. ¥43,980

Kōrakukan 後楽館 Yamanouchi 026 933 4376, kanbayashi-onsen.com/kourakukan.html. Rambling wooden ryokan, set on the hillside just below the monkey park (the macaques often wander down to the baths here), and offering homely Japanese-style accommodation, with rates including two meals. There’s a selection of indoor and outdoor onsen, including private family baths; non-residents can take a dip in the rotemburo for ¥500, and tattoos are no problem. ¥26,200

Togura Kamiyamada Onsen

戸倉上山田温泉

In the heart of the mountains 20km south of Nagano, TOGURA KAMIYAMADA ONSEN stretches languidly along either side of the Chikuma River. Although these days the town has become somewhat urbanized, as an agglomeration of the workaday little city of Chikuma (千曲), it was traditionally a target for pilgrims en route from Nagano’s Zenkō-ji, and continues to boast a strong geisha heritage. Home to a busy bar and restaurant district, along with unusual shops and easy access to surrounding nature, Togura Kamiyamada offers a wider range of diversions than the average onsen resort, and makes a great place to spend a night.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOGURA KAMIYAMADA ONSEN

By train There are regular trains to Togura Station from Nagano (every 30min, 25min; ¥420) on the Shinano railway. The onsen district is 2km southwest of the station, across the river. Most hotels run their own shuttles; otherwise, hop in a taxi (5min; ¥1000).Travellers approaching from Matsumoto and points south should change from the JR line at Shinonoi, for the final 12min ride on the Shinano line (every 30min, 1hr–1hr 30min; ¥1210–2410), or get off one stop earlier at Obasute (hourly, 45min; ¥770), a 10min taxi ride from the centre of Togura.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

With so many ryokan to choose from, it’s worth steering clear of the larger, old-style government options in favour of more interesting alternatives. There’s a similarly broad range of places to eat and drink, with local specialities including oshibori udon, noodles with a spicy daikon radish sauce.

Daikokuya 大黒屋 2-24-1 Kamiyamada Onsen 026 275 0768. This small noodle shop is a local institution – there’s often a queue at lunchtimes, but it’s well worth the wait. Noodles start at ¥700, but it's the nintare tonkatsu, a breaded pork fillet with garlic sauce (¥1000), which is the local favourite. Daily 11.30am–4pm.

Kamesei 亀清 2-15-1 Kamiyamada Onsen 026 275 1032, kamesei.jp. An excellent small ryokan run by a very friendly Japanese–American couple. The passageways of the old building wind around small inner gardens and ponds, tatami rooms feature modern en-suite bathrooms, and there’s a “100-year-old” outdoor bath as well as a private family onsen. Breakfast and dinner cost an additional ¥5000 per person (or around ¥2200 for just breakfast). ¥13,600

Karuizawa and around

軽井沢

It was on the tennis courts of the ritzy resort of KARUIZAWA, on the volcanic slopes of Asama-yama at the eastern edge of Nagako-ken, that Crown Prince Akihito (later the emperor) met his future wife, Michiko, in the 1950s. Later, in the late 1960s and 1970s, John Lennon and Yoko Ono spent vacations here. Thanks to decades of superstar patronage, this small town can get very hectic in summer, with Tokyoites descending to relax in the cooler mountain air and spend up a storm at the giant outlet mall and tacky tourist-shop strip to either side of the main station. However, it’s straightforward enough to escape this commercial frenzy, and head into the forested hills along the network of easy local hiking and cycling routes.

Kyū-Karuizawa

旧軽井沢 • 1km north of Karuizawa Station

Karuizawa turns scenic in the Kyū-Karuizawa district, around a kilometre from the station. Work your way past the tourists who are jamming the pedestrianized, rather tacky, shopping street dubbed “Little Ginza”, to emerge into a forest. Here you’ll find the quaint wooden Anglican Chapel (daily 9am–5pm; free), fronted by a bust of Alexander Croft Shaw (1846–1902), a Canadian missionary who helped to popularize the area. A short walk southeast, the historic Mampei Hotel holds a small museum of memorabilia.

Tōgemachi

峠町

To the east of Kyū-Karuizawa, Tōgemachi feels thoroughly off the beaten track – which is ironic, as it's here you can join the centuries-old trail of the Nakasendō. You can follow it west into Karuizawa, but much of the old trail has been built over there; more rewarding is the route to the east, a challenging hike down the Usui Pass to the old post town of Sakamoto-shuku (坂本宿). The eight-mile route is one of the toughest sections of the entire Nakasendō, so don't take it on lightly. From Sakamoto you can catch a bus back to Karuizawa (roughly hourly, 10am–2pm), or walk for a leisurely hour, partially by a pretty old railway track, to Yokokawa (横川), where there's a train station.

If you don't fancy a hike, it's still worth visiting Tōgemachi for the quirky Kumano Kōtai-jinja (熊野皇大神社), which sits in the border between Nagano and Gunma prefectures. Be sure to venture to the very back of the shrine precincts, into the forest on the Nagano side, to find a tiny torii nestled among the trees. Also nearby is the Usui Pass Observation Point (碓氷峠見晴台, Usui Tōge Miharashidai; daily 24hr; free), with stunning views over the mountains.

Hoshino Resort

星野リゾート • Tonbo-no-yu Daily 10am–11pm • ¥1350 (Golden Week, Aug & New Year ¥1550) • 026 745 5853, hoshino-area.jp/en • Free buses from the south side of Karuizawa Station

Naka-Karuizawa (中軽井沢), 6km west of Karuizawa and served by free buses, is another beautiful area for cycling, hiking and relaxing. Its principal focus is the Hoshino Resort hotels; an excellent onsen, Tonbo-no-yu (トンボの湯); a forest of chestnut and larch trees where you can take guided nature tours; and a stylish, low-key shopping and dining complex, Harunire Terrace. The area also has two architecturally unusual churches, the steep-roofed, cabin-like Karuizawa Kōgen (軽井沢高原; daily 9am–6pm; free) and the sinuous Stone Church (石の教会, Ishi no Kyōkai; 9am–6pm; free), built partly underground.

North of Karuizawa

Head northwest along the main road, Mikasa-dōri, and a pleasant 2km cycle ride or hike will bring you to the secluded Old Mikasa Hotel (旧三笠ホテル; daily 9am–5pm; ¥400), an elegant wooden building built in 1905 and which closed in 1970; it is now a national monument. Follow the road past the camping ground to Kose (小瀬), where a 10km hike leads in turn to the scenic Shiraito Falls (白糸の滝). Afterwards, head west to Mine-no-chaya (峰の茶屋), from where buses head back to Karuizawa.

Onioshidashien

鬼押出し園 • 21km northwest of Karuizawa • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥650; guided tours free, but arrange interpreter in advance from Karuizawa or Hakuba • princehotels.co.jp/amuse/onioshidashi • 2–4 daily buses from Karuizawa Station (50min)

Japan’s highest triple-cratered active volcano – the 2568m Asama-yama (浅間山), which last erupted in 2009 – looms ominously over Karuizawa. The closest you can get to the crater is on its north side at Onioshidashien. This was the scene of a cataclysmic eruption on August 5, 1783, when ash from the blowout was said to have darkened the sky as far as Europe, and a 7km-wide lava flow swept away Kanbara village. When the lava cooled, it solidified into an extraordinary landscape of black boulders and bizarre rock shapes, where alpine plants now sprout, often growing in bonsai sizes, and across which twisting, wheelchair-accessible pathways have been laid. To get a sense of the scale of the place, head up to the observation floor in the gift shop and restaurant complex at the entrance. Most of the crowds head for the central temple, Kannon-dō, which stands on a raised red platform amid the black rocks; for a more peaceful experience keep going to the quieter area behind.

The weather in this dramatic, eerie landscape can change every few minutes – pick up an umbrella on your way in and keep an eye on Asama-yama even if it's shrouded in cloud, as the peak may make a sudden, glorious appearance.

EXPLORING THE WILD SIDE OF KARUIZAWA

Though nowadays it’s known more as a genteel resort than anything else, Karuizawa has long been a hotspot for wildlife and conservation. In 1974, Japan’s first bird sanctuary was established here, and today the beautiful forested area is a prime trekking, mountain biking and wildlife-viewing spot.

Picchio ( wildlife-picchio.com), an eco-tour operator with English-speaking guides, is at the vanguard of promoting nature tourism in the area. Several of their activities are short and family-friendly, such as the Musasabi Tour, on which you get to see Japanese giant flying squirrels and even peek into their nest box via a camera feed (mid-March to Nov; 1hr 30min; ¥3300, under-13s ¥2500). It’s timed to the minute so you’re almost sure of seeing the adorable nocturnal animals emerge. The Wildlife Night Drive is another good option, on which you’re driven up into the mountains to spot deer, foxes, tanuki (raccoon dogs) and other animals; image-stabilized binoculars mean you that even the bumpiest sections of road won’t stop you spotting wildlife (late April to Oct; 1hr 30min; ¥4800, under-13s ¥3800).

The longer, adults-only tours include the Japanese Serow Watching trek; this antelope-like relative of the goat is so elusive it’s very hard to spot without a guide (late Sept to early Nov; 7hr 30min; ¥18,000, including lunch and hiking shoe rental). You can learn more about Picchio’s vital bear management work on the Asiatic Black Bear Tour (mid-July to mid-Sept; 4 or 8hr; ¥22,000 or ¥44,000, including lunch and hiking shoe rental). This is a truly rare chance to learn about the organization’s humane methods of protecting the town from bears, which focus on tracking and studying the bears with radio collars, and scaring them away with Karelian bear dogs (who are very friendly, as well as being excellent trackers with a booming bark). This work has helped further our understanding of these much-maligned animals, as well as protecting Karuizawa’s residents and preventing the deaths of many of the area’s bears.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KARUIZAWA AND AROUND

By train Shinkansen trains run to Karuizawa Station from Tokyo (every 30min; 1hr 5min) or Nagano (every 30min; 31min).

By bus Direct buses run to Karuizawa from Ikebukuro in Tokyo, as well as Osaka and Kyoto.

Tourist information Karuizawa’s tourist information office, at the station (daily 9am–5.30pm; 026 742 2491, visitkaruizawa.com/en), hands out a good English map of the area.

GETTING AROUND

By bus While local buses from outside Karuizawa Station connect with nearby attractions, services tend to be frustratingly infrequent.

By bike The most enjoyable way to explore is by bike. You can find several rental shops near the station; try Karuizawa Ridetown or Shironeko Cycle (both daily 9am–5pm), who both offer bikes for ¥400 a day, or ¥1000 for electric-assist bikes.

ACCOMMODATION

Karuizawa is not a cheap place to stay, so if you are on a budget a day-trip is probably best. Room rates vary significantly between low and high seasons.

BEB5 Karuizawa BEB5軽井沢 3364-15 Nakagura 057 007 3022, bit.ly/bebkaruizawa. A laidback take on the Hoshino brand aimed at younger travellers, BEB5 Karuizawa offers a well-designed and flexible place to stay. As well as the trappings of a hotel aimed at millennials (vinyl records, a ping-pong table, free popcorn on check-in) there are subtler indications that they've considered the needs of their guests. Breakfast is served until late, check-out is "sometime after noon", the smartly designed rooms have fast wi-fi, and there are even discounts for cash-strapped under-35s. Guests can use Hoshinoya's Tonbo-no-yu onsen for ¥550. ¥21,000

Highland Inn Ease ハイランドインイーズ 18-160 Oaza Nakagura 026 741 3939, ease-karuizawa.com/e. A laidback, affordable guesthouse with a roomy private onsen bath, excellent food (which is adaptable to dietary restrictions) and comfortable rooms which are a little worn around the edges. The English-speaking owners – a gruff, wry-humoured ex-architect and the smiley, friendly chef – lend it plenty of charm. Breakfast ¥1100, dinner ¥2750. ¥14,000

Hoshinoya Karuizawa 星のや軽井沢 2148 Nakagura 050 3786 1144, hoshinoya.com/karuizawa/en. Outstandingly beautiful and luxurious onsen hotel, which blends with the forest and has its own hydro-power generators. Choose between garden, river and mountainside villas, each equally gorgeous and all sporting cypress-wood bathtubs. Various experiences are on offer for guests, from Picchio nature tours and calligraphy to skating on an outdoor rink (winter only). For ¥1350, non-guests too can use the onsen, Tonbo-no-yu. The property holds Japanese and French fine-dining restaurants (meals cost extra). Discounts apply for longer stays. ¥84,000

Karuizawa Prince Hotel East 軽井沢プリンスホテルイースト Kitasaku-gun 026 742 1111, princehotels.co.jp/karuizawa-east. The best value of several Prince properties located on a sprawling site a few minutes’ walk south of the station. It offers a mammoth shopping plaza, spa and onsen, tennis, golf and, in winter, direct access to a small ski field. Choose between stylish, large hotel rooms or log cabins. Breakfast is ¥3000. ¥34,000

Mampei Hotel 万平ホテル 925 Kitasaku-gun 026 742 1234, mampei.co.jp. This hotel, the area’s grand dame, established in 1894, is where John and Yoko used to stay. Surrounded by the forest, it has a quirky, rambling elegance, although the cheapest rooms are a little dowdy. Breakfast is included. ¥30,000

Hotel Wellies ホテル・ウェリーズ 2350-160 Nagakura 026 746 1670, hotelwellies.jp. Run by a British–Japanese couple, this small hotel is named after the Duke of Wellington, and is a little patch of England in Japan, with quirky design features and an eclectic mix of decor combining the modern and traditional. Breakfast, which may even feature kippers, is ¥1500, while British dinners cost ¥3500. There’s a lovely granite-tiled family bathroom as well as an indoor garden. ¥19,000

EATING

As well as the individual options listed below, it’s worth exploring the Harinure Terrace dining and shopping area in the Hoshino district, which holds several good-value restaurants and cafés.

Jinenya じねんや 2733-1 Nagakura 026 746 2476, www10.plala.or.jp/jinenya. If you're after vegan, gluten-free, macrobiotic or organic food, you'll find it at this tiny restaurant and shop, which provides meals for guests with dietary requirements at some of Karuizawa's top hotels. The extensive menu (which is clearly marked with allergens) is full of mouthwatering multi-dish meals – try one of the Shizen no Megumi ("nature's blessing") sets if you're hungry (¥2000–3000), or save room for a fluffy rice-flour pancake (¥1500). Cash only; reservations required in the evening. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 10am–8pm.

Kastanie カスターニエ 23-2 Karaizawa-higashi 026 742 3081, kastanie.co.jp. This local institution, a 7min walk north of Karuizawa Station, is best known for its slow-roasted chicken, but it also serves other Western dishes including pizzas and grilled meats. Set lunch menus with half a chicken cost around ¥1600. Mon & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–3pm & 5–9pm.

Kawakami-an 川上庵 6-10 Kyū-Karuizawa 026 742 0009, kawakamian.com. Smart place, near the foot of Ginza street, with a fantastic terrace that comes into its own on sunny days. Handmade soba and tempura set meals cost from around ¥1900, while more unusual appetizers include oysters in oil. Daily 11am–10pm.

Shigenoya しげの屋 2 Tōgemachi 026 742 2402. This simple café opposite Kumano Kōtai-jinja sits on the border between Gunma and Nagano – a red line on the floor shows which tables are in which prefecture. As a stopping-off point on the Nakasendō, it's long been famous for its hearty bowls of soba (¥650–1150), and its delicious chikara mochi or "power ricecakes" (¥500; the miso and walnut flavour is particularly good). The view is so lovely here, the toilets even have one glass wall to make the most of it. It’s worth noting that Shigenoya is a cash only establishment. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 10am–4pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4.30pm.

Matsumoto

松本

The delightful city of MATSUMOTO spreads to either side of the Metoba River, 70km southwest of Nagano across the Hijiri Kōgen mountains. As the primary gateway to the Japan Alps, it’s long been a popular tourist destination, and is famous for having retained a splendid castle, Matsumoto-jō. In addition, art lovers can enjoy traditional prints at the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum and the contemporary work of Matsumoto-born Yayoi Kusama at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art.

Thanks to its manageable size, slower pace of life and superb natural setting, Matsumoto has attracted many former urbanites to relocate and open their own businesses, and many of the traditional white-walled houses in its appealing riverside neighbourhoods now hold guesthouses, cafés, bars and small, artsy shops. The ideal time to visit is the last weekend in May, for the Crafts Fair Matsumoto ( matsumoto-crafts.com).

Matsumoto-jō

松本城 • 4-1 Marunouchi • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥610 (includes Matsumoto City Museum) • 026 332 0133, matsumoto-castle.jp • The ALSA ( npo-alsa.com/home-en) offers free tours; ask at the guide counter near the ticket window

Still almost entirely surrounded by its broad protective moat – there’s no hill hereabouts – the magnificent fortress known as Matsumoto-jō is only visible once you enter its outer grounds. Nicknamed Karasu-jō – Crow Castle – thanks to its brooding black facade, it’s one of only five medieval wooden castles to remain intact in Japan, and as such is an official National Treasure. It’s a superb spectacle, if anything even more dramatic after dark, when spotlights emphasize its stark silhouette.

Construction of the castle started in 1592; over the centuries, it belonged to six different families, but it was never taken by force. Neither, unlike the residential palaces that originally stood alongside, did it succumb to fire, a survival credited to the small shrine at its very pinnacle. You can follow (very steep) staircases all the way up to the sixth storey – it looks like there are five storeys from outside, but there's actually an additional, hidden floor – to enjoy views of the town and of the mountains that line the horizon. On your way up, display cases hold all sorts of weaponry and other artefacts.

Matsumoto City Museum

松本まるごと博物館, Matsumoto Marugoto Hakubutsukan • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥610 (includes Matsumoto-jō) • 026 339 7400, matsumoto-artmuse.jp

The quirky Matsumoto City Museum stands within the castle grounds, slightly to the right of the entrance. Displays tell the story of the city from its beginnings along with eclectic objects from Japanese folk culture and a good model of how Matsumoto looked in feudal times, as well as an impressive Treasure Ship. English language signage is minimal.

Metoba-gawa

The narrow streets that run parallel to either bank of the Metoba-gawa through the heart of Matsumoto are well worth exploring. Nakamachi-dōri, a block south of the river, is lined with attractive black-and-white-walled inns, antique and craft shops and restaurants. Prominent among them is the Nakamachi Kurassic-kan (中町蔵シック館; daily 9am–5pm; free; nakamachi-street.com/kurassickan/en), a beautifully restored sake brewery with a soaring black-beam interior and traditional cross-hatching plasterwork outside. It also has an excellent café overlooking a moss garden.

Meandering beside the river on the northern side, Nawate-dōri is a lively pedestrian lane dotted with cafés, snack stalls and souvenir shops, and which opens onto the large Yohoshira Jinja.

Matsumoto City Museum of Art

松本市美術館, Matsumoto-shi Bijutsukan • 4-2-22 Chūō, 1km east of the station • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥410 • 026 339 7400, matsumoto-artmuse.jp

Yayoi Kusama’s The Visionary Flowers – giant technicolour tulips crossed with triffids, looming over a streetfront plaza – ensure you can’t fail to spot the Matsumoto City Museum of Art. Inside, you’ll find a fascinating gallery devoted to this famous Matsumoto-born contemporary artist, as well as others devoted to the calligrapher Shinzan Kamijyo and the landscape artist Tamura Kazuo.

Japan Ukiyo-e Museum

日本浮世絵美術館, Nihon Ukiyo-e Bijutsukan • 2206-1 Shinkiri, Shimadachi • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥1100 • 026 347 4440, japan-ukiyoe-museum.com • Town Sneaker bus Western Route to Ukiyo-e Hakubutsukan stop, or Dentetsu Kamikōchi line train to Ōniwa Station then 15min walk

Housed in an impressive modern gallery in a rather isolated spot 3km west of Matsumoto Station, the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum holds woodblock prints by the great masters, including Hiroshige and Hokusai. Only a fraction of its splendid collection of 100,000 prints can ever be on display, but the amiable curator will often give personally narrated slide shows.

Matsumoto Folkcraft Museum

松本民芸館, Matsumoto Mingei-kan • 1313-1 Satoyamabe • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 026 333 1569 • 15min bus ride on Utsukushigahara line, to Mingei-kan stop

For anyone interested in Japanese crafts, Matsumoto Folkcraft Museum, set in a traditional-style building on the city’s northeastern outskirts, makes a worthwhile stop. Exquisite objects on display include giant pottery urns, lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and wooden chests.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MATSUMOTO

By plane Fuji Dream Airlines and Japan Airlines fly to the small Shinshū-Matsumoto airport ( matsumoto-airport.co.jp), 9km southwest of the city centre; connecting buses meet all flights (25min; ¥600).

Destinations Fukuoka (2 daily; 1hr 50min); Kobe (late Oct to late March daily; 1hr); Osaka (Aug daily; 1hr); Sapporo (1–2 daily; 1hr 30min).

By train Matsumoto’s station, a 20min walk southwest of the castle, has direct connections with Nagano, Nagoya and Tokyo.

Destinations Nagano (hourly; 50min); Nagoya (hourly; 2hr); Nakatsugawa (hourly; 1hr 15min); Narai (10 daily; 50min); Shinano-Ōmachi (hourly; 1hr); Shinjuku, Tokyo (1–2 hourly; 2hr 30min).

By bus Long-distance buses stop in front of the train station.

Destinations Hakuba (Dec–March daily; 2hr); Kamikōchi (16 daily; 1hr 50min); Nagano (hourly; 1hr 20min); Nagoya (8 daily; 3hr 30min); Osaka (3 daily; 5hr 45min–8hr 30min); Takayama (6 daily; 2hr 25min); Shinjuku, Tokyo (hourly; 3hr).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Matsumoto runs helpful information offices inside the station (daily 9am–5.45pm; 026 332 2814, visitmatsumoto.com/en), and on Daimyō-chō-dōri, one block south of the castle (daily 9am–5.45pm; 026 339 7176).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Convenient Town Sneaker minibuses follow four loop routes from the JR station; pick up a map from the tourist office (¥200 per ride, one-day pass ¥500). Regular buses leave from the Matsuden Bus Terminal, under the ESPA department store opposite Matsumoto Station. The Matsumoto One-Day Pass covers both bus types (¥800).

By bike Free bikes are available from eight sites around the city, including the City and Art museums, but not the castle or station. Ask the tourist office for details.

On foot The main sights are within easy walking distance of the train station.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Buena Vista ブエナ·ビスタ 1-2-1 Honjo 026 337 0111, buena-vista.co.jp. Stylish Western-style hotel, a 10min walk from the station but connected by free shuttle bus. The cheapest rooms are pretty cramped, so pay extra for a "premiere" room (around ¥1200 more) if you need to spread out. It holds four restaurants, with the ¥1950 breakfast buffet, up on the panoramic fourteenth floor, being the best value. ¥11,000

Marumo まるも 3-3-10 Chūō 026 332 0115, www.avis.ne.jp/~marumo. In a whitewashed house and Meiji-era wooden building on the banks of the Metoba River, this small ryokan is an appealing mix of old and new, with tatami rooms, a wooden bath, a small enclosed bamboo garden and an excellent coffee shop (daily 8am–6pm) with dark-wood, kissaten styling – well worth visiting even if you don't stay at the ryokan – serving ¥1000 Japanese breakfasts to classical music. Note the 11pm curfew. ¥11,000

Matsumoto Back Packers 松本バックパッカーズ 1-1-6 Shiraita 026 331 5848, matsumotobp.com. To reach this small, very friendly hostel, owned by an Irish–Japanese couple eager to share their local knowledge, head right from the station’s western exit, walk for 5min, and you’ll see it on the far side of the river. The tatami dorms, shared bathrooms and small kitchen are immaculately clean, and the communal lounge is very sociable. Cash only. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥6600

Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu 松本ホテル花月 4-8-9 Ōte 026 332 0114, hotel-kagetsu.jp. This handsome old-fashioned hotel, near the castle, may be showing a little wear and tear, but it retains some stylish touches, and boasts attractive dark-wood furniture. The tasteful tatami rooms are the same price as the larger-than-average Western-style ones. Breakfast around ¥2400 extra. ¥11,100

Hotel New Station ホテルニューステーション 1-1-11 Chūō 026 335 3850, hotel-ns.com. Welcoming, good-value business hotel, immediately left of the station’s main eastern exit, with small rooms but an excellent top-floor public bath, plus free bicycle use. The lively ground-floor izakaya serves local specialities including basashi (raw horsemeat). Breakfast ¥900 extra. ¥7100

Nunoya ぬのや 3-5-7 Chūō 026 332 0545, bit.ly/matsumotonunoya. Delightful ryokan, in a charming wooden building on Nakamachi-dōri, with a friendly English-speaking owner. All the attractive tatami rooms share a communal Japanese-style bathroom, and there’s a pleasant lounge and dining room. Breakfast is not served, but there are plenty of cafés nearby. Cash only. ¥9200

Tabi-shiro タビシロ 1-3-6 Jōsei 026 388 3453, tabi-shiro.com/en. This thoughtfully designed guesthouse, just a few minutes from the castle, has a well-stocked kitchen, and a cosy bar area (open Fri & Sat) with drinks from ¥300. They go to great lengths to support other independent businesses, from selling local crafts to giving out a map marked with about 75 cafés, shops and bars, and staff are happy to help with any request (including advice on which public baths are tattoo-friendly). The simple breakfasts use bread from a local bakery (¥400). Bike rental ¥300. Cash only. Dorms ¥3900, doubles ¥9800

EATING MAP

The narrow lanes around the station are packed with cheap, lively restaurants, while the streets closer to the river and the castle have more upmarket options. Local specialities include soba, best eaten cold (zaru-soba); sanzuko yaki, spicy fried chicken; and sasa mushi, eel steamed inside rice wrapped in bamboo leaves. You’ll also spot restaurants serving horsemeat in all sorts of ways, even raw (basashi). Nawate-dōri is lined with stalls selling all sorts of intriguing snacks, plus several spacious cafés.

Amijok アミジョク 3-4-14 Chūō 026 388 6238. Cute, friendly café, just off the eastern end of Nakamachi-dōri, with a retro vibe. As well as baking five different kinds of muffin each day, they serve home-made cakes, breads and savoury snacks, put on exhibitions by local artists, and sell modern crafts. Coffee and cake set around ¥600. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 10am–6pm, closed second & fourth Wed each month.

Furusato ふるさと 4-1 Nawate-dōri 026 339 5552, taiyaki-ya.com. The best of the many taiyaki (fish-shaped filled pastry) stands on Nawate-dōri, often with a queue of local fans. Unusually, it also offers savoury variations on the sweet treat. Next-door UO Café & Bar is run by the same people, so you can enjoy taiyaki with a cool beer. Cash only. Daily 10am–6pm; café & bar Mon–Fri 6–10pm.

Healthy Penguin Cafe ヘルシーペンギンカフェ 4-3-25 Ōte 090 4153 8575, facebook.com/healthypenguincafe. The best spot for vegans and vegetarians in Matsumoto – but equally appealing to anyone in need of a fresh, colourful and flavour-packed meal. The Wake Up mocha smoothie (¥660) helps any morning along, while the satisfyingly large burrito bowl (¥1200) makes a perfect lunch. Cash only. Mon & Thurs–Sun 11am–5pm (plus 8–10am some days).

Hikariya ヒカリヤ 4-7-14 Ōte 026 338 0068, hikari-ya.com. Elegant 120-year-old machiya (townhouse) that has been beautifully converted into a very stylish complex of two restaurants: Higashi, serving an austere but masterful kaiseki menu, and Nishi, specializing in French cuisine. Lunch starts at ¥1650 (kaiseki from ¥5000), dinner ¥6300. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–10pm.

Menshō Sakura 麺匠佐蔵 1-20-26 Chūō 026 334 1050. This solitary stand-alone townhouse on an otherwise modernized city street – look out for the green “Box Oak” sign next door – holds a true local favourite: a tiny seven-seater noodle restaurant, where you pay at the ticket machine then tuck into ramen noodles (try the black miso flavour) for ¥800, or crisp gyōza dumplings for ¥500. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–3pm & 5.30–10pm.

Pizza Verde Matsumoto ピッシァヴェルデマツモト 4-8-22 Ōte 026 387 1617, verde-matsumoto.jp. The chef at this unassuming pizza restaurant not only trained in Naples, but regularly goes back to take part in competitions, and it really is a step above most pizza in Japan. Expect to pay around ¥1000–18000 for perfectly cooked stonebaked crusts with toppings including Marinara, Cappricciosa and their signature Verde. Hours vary; usually Mon & Wed–Fri 6–10pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–2pm & 6–10pm.

Sakuraya 桜家 4-9-1 Ōte 026 333 2660, sakuraya.ne.jp. Formal traditional restaurant, with waitresses in kimono, which specializes in sumptuous, smoky eel dishes. Little English is spoken, but an English photo menu details set meals starting at around ¥2000. Be sure to try the sasa mushi. Tues–Sun 11am–2pm & 5–9pm.

Temaezaru Shun 手前ざる俊 1-4-6 Chūō 026 336 3936. Lively, quick-fire noodle joint, in the thick of the nightlife district a block from the station, that’s a good bet for a late-night meal. A bowl of soba, abounding in local vegetables such as succulent mushrooms, costs around ¥1000. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5pm–1am (until 11pm on Sun).

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Elbow Room エルボー・ルーム 4-3-3 Nawate Yokochō 026 339 3017. Tiny, hole-in-the-wall drinking den in a hard-to-spot lane off Nawate-dōri, which gets lively at weekends, with an eclectic mix of electronic and psychedelic sounds attracting a young crowd of skaters and partiers. Drinks around ¥500, with a range of cocktails and daily food specials for ¥600. Varies, but usually Mon–Sat 8pm–2am.

Give me little more ギブミーリトルモア 3-11-7 Chūō 080 5117 0059, givemelittlemore.blogspot.jp. Attracting an arty crowd, this friendly pocket-sized wooden bar beside the river hosts DIY art exhibitions, film screenings and music performances (often featuring the owner’s band) in its adjoining event space. It also offers daily food specials, usually curry (¥600). Drinks from ¥500. Tues–Sat 7pm–1.30am.

Hop Frog Café ホップカエルカフェ 3-8-28 Chūō 090 6022 5760, hopfrogcafe.biz. This bright, friendly modern place, not far west of the art museum, has hit on a winning formula, serving both the city’s best coffee and a wide range of craft beers, along with bar snacks like ¥600 sharing platters of nuts, cheese and honey and ¥800 sandwiches. Cash only. Wed–Sun 10am–10pm.

Main Bar Coat イン・バー・コート Miwa Bldg, 3-4-21 Chūō 026 334 7133, mainbarcoat.com. Stylish speakeasy-style bar that serves a wide range of cocktails (from ¥880) and has a good collection of whiskies too (from ¥770). ¥800 cover charge. Mon–Sat 6pm–1am.

Matsumoto Brewery Tap Room 松本ブルワリーTAPルーム 3F Shinmai Media Garden, 2-20-2 Chūō 026 388 1560, matsu-brew.com. As in any city which attracts young creatives, Matsumoto boasts its very own craft brewery. Luckily, it's excellent – come by to taste the local brews alongside a few small plates of food. There's also a second branch to be found in Nakamachi (Mon & Wed–Sun 1–7pm) which doesn't serve food, but where you can buy beers to take away. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–10pm.

CLASSICAL MUSIC IN MATSUMOTO

Matsumoto has a reputation as a centre for classical music. It was here that Dr Suzuki Shin’ichi, an internationally famous music teacher, encouraged children to learn to play instruments using their natural gift for mimicry. His “Suzuki Method” is taught in the Suzuki Shin’ichi Talent Education Hall, 1km east of Matsumoto Station. The city’s annual classical music festival, held between early August and early September each year, is now known as the Seiji Ozawa Matsumoto Festival ( ozawa-festival.com) in honour of its current director, but may be more familiar under its previous name, the Saitō Kinen Festival, which commemorated its founder, conductor Saitō Hideo.

For many years, Geiyūkan, a small, recently renovated hall on Nakamachi-dōri, has hosted weekly performances of the classical Japanese string instrument, the shamisen. You can also try playing the instrument yourself (芸游館; Sun & hols 1.30pm & 3pm; ¥1000 including green tea and Japanese sweets; 026 332 1107).

Around Matsumoto

It’s all about the mountains around Matsumoto. To the north is the ski centre of Hakuba, while to the west is the serene lake and mountain resort of Kamikōchi, which gets so much snow that it is inaccessible all winter. The nearby onsen and ski resort of Norikura Kōgen generally makes a less crowded alternative base.

GETTING AROUND AROUND MATSUMOTO

By car The fabulous Skyline Road runs through the mountainous area around Matsumoto, crossing the “roof of Japan” to Takayama in neighbouring Gifu-ken.

By bus The Alpico bus company offers various good-value regional multi-day passes (Matsumoto/Kamikōchi/Norikura region 2-day pass ¥6000, 3-day pass ¥7000; 4-day pass covering Hida area as well, April–Nov ¥10,290–12,000, Dec–March ¥8800–9800; alpico.co.jp).

Hotaka

穂高

The quiet country town of Hotaka, 16km north of Matsumoto, is best known for its production of the wasabi paste which accompanies sushi and sashimi. The ideal way to explore this tranquil area is to rent a bicycle from one of the many local outlets. Keep an eye open along the country roads for dōsojin, small stones on which guardian deity couples have been carved.

Dai-ō Wasabi Farm

大王わさび農場, Dai-ō Wasabi Nōjō • 1692 Hotaka • Daily: April–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–March 9am–4.30pm • Free • 026 382 2118, daiowasabi.co.jp • 3km east of Hotaka Station; 15min by bike

Set in pleasant countryside, the enjoyably touristy Dai-ō Wasabi Farm, one of the largest in Japan, consists of vast fields of the fiery green horseradish growing in wide, waterlogged gravel trenches. Visitors can sample all types of wasabi-flavoured food, including surprisingly tasty ice cream and even beer.

Rokuzan Art Museum

碌山美術館, Rokuzan Bijutsukan • 5095-1 Hotaka • May–Oct daily 9am–5.10pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sun 9am–4.10pm • ¥700 • 026 382 2094, rokuzan.jp/en • 700m north of Hotaka Station

The serene Rokuzan Art Museum, housed in an ivy-covered, church-like building and a couple of modern galleries, houses the sculptures of Ogiwara Rokuzan (1879–1911). Known in Japan as the “Rodin of the Orient”, Rokuzan pioneered a contemporary style of portraiture with works like The Miner, but his career was abruptly cut short when he died of tuberculosis at the age of 32.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HOTAKA

By train Direct trains on the JR Ōito line connect Hotaka with Matsumoto (every 30min; 30min; ¥330).

Tourist information Hotaka’s tourist office, on the left as you exit the station, has English-speaking staff (daily: April–Nov 9am–5.30pm, Nov–March 9am–4.30pm; 026 382 9363, azumino-e-tabi.net/en).

Kamikōchi

上高地

The beautiful mountaineering and hiking resort of KAMIKŌCHI is hidden away high in the Azusa valley, 50km west of Matsumoto at an altitude of 1500m. In itself it amounts to little more than a bus station and a handful of hotels, scattered along the Azusa-gawa, but Kamikōchi boasts some stunning alpine scenery. The area can only be visited between late April and mid-November, before the narrow roads are blocked by heavy snow and the resort shuts down for winter. In season, though, the place is buzzing with tourists, and the prices at its hotels and restaurants can be as steep as the surrounding mountains.

Kamikōchi owes its fortunes to the late nineteenth-century British missionary Walter Weston, who helped popularize the area as a base for climbing the Northern Alps. Both its two highest mountains – the 3190m Hotaka-dake (穂高岳), also known as Oku-Hotaka-dake, and the 3180m Yari-ga-take (槍ヶ岳) – are extremely popular climbs. One trail up Yari-ga-take has been dubbed the Ginza Jūsō (“Ginza Traverse”) after Tokyo’s busy shopping area. However, the congestion on the mountain is nothing compared to that at its base, where high season sees thousands of day-trippers tramping along the well-marked trails of the Azusa valley. With an early start, the scenic spots of the valley can be covered in a day’s hike, but the best way to appreciate Kamikōchi is to stay overnight. Alternatively, visit in June, when frequent showers deter fair-weather walkers.

Azusa valley

梓川谷

At the entrance to the Azusa valley, 5km southwest of Kamikōchi’s bus terminal, a glass-like pond reflects the snowcapped peaks. Known as the Taishō-ike (大正池), it formed when the Azusa-gawa was naturally dammed by a 1915 eruption of the nearby volcano, Yake-dake – dead tree trunks still poke out of the water. Rowing boats can be rented from the Taishō-ike Hotel.

An hour-long amble along the pebbly riverbank starts at Taishō-ike. It splits after the Tashiro bridge, with one leg continuing beside the Azusa-gawa while the other follows a nature trail along wooden walkways, over chocolatey marshes. Returning the way you came, cross the Tashiro bridge to the opposite bank of the river, where the path leads past several hotels and a rock-embedded relief statue of Walter Weston. In the centre of the village, a very photogenic wooden suspension bridge, Kappa-bashi (河童橋), crosses the river. A few minutes’ walk from here, a good visitor centre run by the Chūbu-Sangaku National Park, displays stunning photographs of the mountains.

WALTER WESTON

Born in Derbyshire, England, in 1861, the missionary Walter Weston was 29 years old when he first set foot in the mountains of Nagano-ken. Although the phrase “Japan Alps” was coined by another Englishman, William Gowland, whose Japan Guide was published in 1888, it took the appearance of Weston’s Climbing and Exploring in the Japan Alps eight years later for the peaks really to register with mountaineers. Until then, these mountains, considered sacred, had only been climbed by Shintō and Buddhist priests, but now alpinism caught on as a sport in fast-modernizing Japan. Weston, who became its acknowledged guru, favoured Kamikōchi as a base from which to climb what he called “the grandest mountains in Japan”, and frequently visited the tiny village from his home in Kōbe. Although he is honoured in Kamikōchi with a monument and a festival in his name on the first Sunday in June (the start of the climbing season), Weston is said to have wept at the prospect of mass tourism ruining his beloved mountains. His ghost can take comfort from the fact that, despite Kamikōchi’s popularity, the area’s beauty remains largely intact.

The crowds fall away on the hike north from the visitor centre to the picturesque pond, Myōjin-ike (明神池; ¥300), with its tiny shrine and mallard ducks; the 7km return trip will take you around two hours at a leisurely pace. On October 8, Myōjin-ike hosts a festival in which two boats, their prows decorated with the head of a dragon and a legendary bird, float on the sacred pond.

The hike to Yari-ga-take

Keen hikers can follow an additional six-hour course up the valley from Myōjin-ike to the Tokusawa campsite (徳沢) and the Shinmura suspension bridge (新村橋), named after a famous climber, Shinmura Shōichi. Beyond Tokusawa, the serious hiking begins. The steep trek up the “Matterhorn of Japan” (so-called because of its craggy appearance) to the mountain huts at Ichinomata on the lower slopes of Yari-ga-take takes around five hours, and can be done in a long day from Kamikōchi. Basic huts on the mountain enable overnight stays; a futon and two meals cost around ¥10,300 per person (stay only ¥7300, tent ¥1000), but it can get very crowded.

Reaching the summit of Yari-ga-take may well give you a taste for mountaineering. The most popular route heads due south across the alpine ridge to Hotaka-dake, the third-highest peak in Japan, on a three-day loop that will bring you back to Kamikōchi.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KAMIKŌCHI

By train To reach Kamikōchi by train from Matsumoto, take the Matsumoto Dentetsu line to Shinshimashima (every 40min; 30min; ¥710), then catch a connecting bus to Kamikōchi (17 daily; 1hr 15min; ¥2200).

By bus As well as regular buses from Tokyo, Kyoto and Nagano, direct buses run from Matsumoto Station to Kamikōchi (17 daily; 1hr 50min; ¥2500). Takayama also has frequent buses to Hirayu onsen (1–2 hourly; 1hr), from where there are regular connections to Kamikōchi (every 30min; 25min; whole trip ¥2650 one way). Buses also connect Norikura Kōgen and Kamikōchi (8 daily; 1hr; ¥1800). Once in Kamikōchi, be sure to reserve your seat on a bus out again – high demand often leaves visitors at the mercy of the taxi drivers. Return tickets are often cheaper than buying two one-way tickets.

By car Private vehicles are banned from the valley. Drivers can park in the village of Naka-no-yu (中の湯), 12km southwest of Kamikōchi via succesive narrow rock tunnels, and continue by bus (10 daily; 15min; ¥1000) or taxi (¥4500).

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information The Kamikōchi Information Centre, at the bus terminal (daily 8am–5pm; 026 395 2433, kamikochi.org), hands out a good English map that shows the main hiking trails. The staff don’t speak much English, though, so if you need more information or want to arrange accommodation, you’re better off seeking help at the Matsumoto tourist office.

Hiking Be sure to pack warm, waterproof clothing even for day walks, as the weather can change rapidly. At the height of summer, temperatures on the peaks can be freezing, especially in early morning. The staff at the Chūbu-Sangaku National Park visitor centre (daily 8am–5pm; 026 395 2606; kamikochi-vc.or.jp), just past Kappa-bashi, can provide English descriptions of the local flora and fauna.

Services Kamikōchi has no ATM or bank, so bring plenty of cash.

ACCOMMODATION

Kamikōchi is not a cheap place to stay. If the options listed below are beyond your budget, consider basing yourself at the youth hostel in Norikura Kōgen, and making a day-trip from there.

The Parklodge Kamikōchi THE PARKLODGE上高地 026 395 2221, gosenjaku.co.jp/english. One of two very comfortable Gosenjaku properties in the main village, and recently renovated. Rates include two excellent meals. ¥38,000

Kamikōchi Imperial Hotel 上高地帝国ホテル 026 395 2001, www.imperialhotel.co.jp/e/kamikochi. Built in 1933, this historic top-end hotel has the delightful spookiness of a grand old hotel in a wilderness setting. The Western-style rooms, restaurant and bar ooze quality, as does the attentive service of the staff. Breakfast around ¥3500. ¥35,100

Konashidaira 小梨平 026 395 2321, nihonalpskankou.co.jp. Campsite set in a serene location just a few minutes’ walk beyond Kappa-bashi and the visitor centre. Showers are available, as are self-catering cabins. Rental sleeping bags, cooking pots and so on are available. No need to reserve in advance if you're bringing your own tent. Camping per person (own tent) ¥800, camping per tent (rental) ¥6000, cabins ¥11,000

Nishi-itoya Sansō 西糸屋山荘 026 395 2206, www.nishiitoya.com/en. The best budget option in Kamikōchi, with both bunk beds and shared tatami areas. Rates include two meals, which is good value for the area. Dorms ¥9000, doubles ¥11,500

Yamanohidaya 山のひだや 026 395 2211, i-sks.com/yh. To escape the crowds, head for this delightfully rustic lodge next to Myōjin-ike, complete with stuffed animals as decoration. Two meals, cooked on an ancient iron range and open hearth, are included. ¥28,600

EATING AND DRINKING

Eating options include standard soba and curry rice at inflated prices from the hotels, which also serve fancier set meals. If you’re visiting for the day or planning a hike into the mountains, bring a picnic.

Kamonjigoya 嘉門次小屋 026 395 2418, kamonjigoya.wordpress.com. This attractive rustic lodge, beside Myōjin-ike, is renowned for its ¥1600 iwana (river trout) lunch. The fish are roasted on sticks beside an irori (charcoal fire), making this an ideal refuge if the weather turns nasty. Daily 8.30am–4.30pm.

Norikura Kōgen

乗鞍高原

Much like Kamikōchi, NORIKURA KŌGEN, an alpine village 30km southwest of Matsumoto, offers splendid mountain scenery, hiking trails and onsen. The closest thing to a centre in this straggle of a village is the modern onsen complex, Yukemurikan (湯けむり館; Mon & Wed–Sun 9.30am–9pm; ¥720), which has both indoor wooden baths and a rotemburo with mountain views.

In winter, ski lifts shoot up the lower slopes of Norikura-dake, while in summer the hike to the peak can be done in ninety minutes from the car park, an hour’s drive from Norikura Kōgen, where the Skyline Road crosses from Nagano-ken into Gifu-ken. This is the highest road in Japan, providing spectacular mountain-top views; its upper section, though, is closed from November until the end of May.

Walks around Norikura Kōgen

From the ski lifts near the Yukemurikan onsen, an hour-long trail heads east to Sanbon-daki (三本滝), where three waterfalls converge in one pool. An alternative hiking route runs south from the ski lifts for twenty minutes, following a clearly marked nature trail with signs in English, to reach another beautiful waterfall, Zengorō-no-taki (善五郎の滝), where a rainbow often forms in the spray in the morning. Twenty minutes’ walk further south of Zengorō, a small reflecting pond, Ushidome-ike (牛留池), provides a perfect view of the mountains. Continuing downhill from the pond, you can walk towards another small water hole, Azami-ike (あざみ池), or to the main picnic area, Ichinose (一の瀬), a picturesque spot at the confluence of two streams.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NORIKURA KŌGEN

By bus Direct buses from Matsumoto (8 daily; 1hr 30min; ¥1800), or bus from Takayama (1–2 hourly; 1hr), changing at Hirayu Onsen for services to Norikura (6–11 daily; 1hr; ¥1450). From June to Oct regular buses also run between Norikura Kōgen and Kamikōchi (8 daily; 1hr; ¥1800).

Tourist information The tourist office is opposite the Yukemurikan onsen complex (daily 9am–5pm; 026 393 2147, norikura.gr.jp).

ACCOMMODATION

BELL Suzurangoya 鈴蘭小屋 4284-1 Azumi 026 393 2001, bit.ly/suzurangoya. Large and friendly European-style chalet near the tourist office which features cosy rooms, large onsen baths and tasty home-cooked food. Rates include breakfast and dinner; an extra heating charge applies in winter. ¥10,950

Kyūkamura Norikura Kōgen 休暇村乗鞍高原 4307 Azumi 026 393 2304, qkamura.or.jp/en/norikura. This modern hotel near the Ushidome pond has fine tatami rooms or fairly standard Western ones. There are large outdoor and indoor onsen and rates that include two buffet meals; an extra heating charge applies in winter. ¥24,200

Norikura Kōgen Youth Hostel 乗鞍高原ユースホステル 4275 Azumi Suzuran 026 393 2748. Just a 10min walk north from the bus stop, next to the ski lifts, this hostel is ideally placed for quick access to the slopes. The young, friendly staff can arrange ski rental and point out the most interesting summer hikes. Breakfast ¥760, dinner from ¥1260. Dorms ¥4430

The Kiso valley

木曽谷

The densely forested river valley of Kiso, southwest of Matsumoto between the Central and Northern Alps, provides a glimpse of how Japan looked before concrete and neon became the norm. Part of the route for the 550km Nakasendō, one of the five main highways that spanned out from Edo (present-day Tokyo), ran through this valley. Connecting Edo with Kyoto, it reached its heyday between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries.

Three of the eleven post towns (juku) that lined the Kiso-ji (Kiso road) section of the Nakasendō – Narai, Tsumago and Magome – have been preserved as virtual museums of the feudal past, and the latter two are linked by an easy two-hour hiking trail along the Nakasendō route which has deservedly become one of the most popular day-hikes in all Japan. Another juku, Kiso-Fukushima, looks less like a samurai film set than the others, but still has attractive areas and is useful as a transport hub.

Narai

奈良井

Attractive NARAI, 30km southwest of Matsumoto, was the most prosperous of the Kiso-ji juku. That fact remains evident in the village’s beautifully preserved wooden buildings, with their overhanging second floors and renji-gōshi latticework. It can easily be visited in half a day, and is free from the tour groups that can clog Tsumago and Magome. In the conservation area, which runs for 1km south from the train station, only the occasional vehicle reminds you which century you’re in.

In the Kamimachi area, Nakamura House (中村邸; April–Nov daily 9am–5pm, Dec–March Tues–Sun 9am–4pm; ¥300) dates from the 1830s, and was once home to a merchant who made his fortune in combs, still a local speciality. Side streets branch off to pretty temples and shrines in the foothills, while Kiso-no-Ōhashi, an arched wooden bridge, leads to the rocky banks of the Narai-gawa.

Look out for the shop selling kashira ningyō, colourfully painted traditional dolls and toys made of wood and plaster, as well as the sake brewery Sugi-no-Mori (杉の森), both in the Nakamachi area of town.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NARAI

By train Narai is served by local trains on the Chūō line from Matsumoto (10 daily; 50min; ¥590).

Tourist information The tourist office is in the Nakamachi area (daily 9am–5pm; 026 434 3048, www.kankou-kiso.com/en). For historical background, visit nakasendoway.com.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Iseya 伊勢屋 388 Narai 026 434 3051, oyado-iseya.jp. A lovely minshuku, in one of the traditional wooden post inns on the main street, with cosy tatami rooms and a peaceful inner garden. Rates include two meals. ¥19,600

Kokoro-ne こころ音 368 Narai 026 434 3345. On the main street, with soaring wooden-beamed ceilings and an irori (a central charcoal fire), this appealing café serves soba noodles and other local dishes. Expect to pay around ¥1350 for a bowl of soba. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–2.30pm.

Kiso-Fukushima

木曽福島

The town of KISO-FUKUSHIMA, 20km southwest of Narai, is much more developed than the other juku. Pick up a map at the tourist office to point you towards the hilltop Ue-no-dan (上の段) conservation area and the serene temple Kōzen-ji (興禅寺).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KISO-FUKUSHIMA

By train Kiso-Fukushima is a stop for hourly express trains on the JR Shinano line between Nagano (1hr 30min; ¥3840), Matsumoto (40min; ¥2190) and Nagoya (1hr 25min; ¥4170). Services finish quite early, so check your return journey carefully. You can also take the Chūō line from Matsumoto (10 daily; 1hr 15min; ¥990).

By bus Highway buses run from Tokyo Shinjuku (2 daily; 4hr 25min; ¥5000).

Tourist information The tourist office is opposite the train station (daily 9am–5pm; 026 422 4000, www.kankou-kiso.com/en).

ACCOMMODATION

Tsutaya つたや 2012-4 Fukushima 026 422 2145, kisoji-tutaya.com. A pleasant ryokan, opposite the station, combining traditional decor with modern design touches, and with a choice of Japanese- or Western-style rooms. Rates include two meals. Wi-fi only in the lobby area. ¥35,200

Magome

馬籠

The delightful old juku (post town) of MAGOME stands 800m high in the hills above the Kiso valley, 100km southwest of Matsumoto. Its name means “horse basket”, because travellers were forced to leave their nags here before tackling the mountainous stretch of road ahead. A magnificent array of black-and-white wood-and-plaster structures, their wooden roofs still held down by stone, lines up to either side of the ancient stone-flagged footpath that climbs the steep slope through the village. Several hold shops, restaurants, and small museums or galleries. Despite appearances, most date from the twentieth century; Magome has suffered a history of fires, the most recent being in 1915, when 42 houses burned down.

HIKING THE KISO-JI

The historic, enjoyable and easy-to-access hike along the Kiso-ji segment of the Nakasendō route is normally done south–north, from Magome to Tsumago. Supposedly that’s to experience the tough initial climb into the mountains from Magome, though it’s actually not that hard, and if anything it would be more difficult to walk in the opposite direction. The 7.7km footpath is signposted in English, and good maps are available from local tourist offices. While the hike itself takes around two hours, it’s worth setting aside a whole day to explore both post towns as well. You’ll enjoy the experience all the more if you stay in either Tsumago or Magome overnight.

To start the hike from Magome, simply keep walking uphill out of the village, past the kōsatsu, the old noticeboard on which the shogunate would post rules and regulations, including the death penalty for anyone found illegally logging in the forest. It’s not quite as rural as you may be expecting, passing through residential districts and crisscrossing the paved road. The steepest part of the trail ends at the Magome-tōge (pass), where there’s an old teahouse beside the road and a stone monument engraved with a lyrical verse by the haiku master Masaoka Shiki. If you prefer not to walk uphill, catch a local bus to this point. The path then drops into a pretty stretch of forest, passing another appealing teahouse as well as two waterfalls, O-dake and Me-dake.

A baggage-forwarding service operates between mid-March and November. Hand in your bag before 11.30am at the tourist office in Magome or Tsumago, and for ¥1000 it’ll be delivered at the other end by 5pm.

Tōson Kinenkan

藤村記念館 • 4256-1 Magome • Daily (except Dec–Feb Wed): April–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4pm • ¥550 • 057 369 2047, toson.jp

The most interesting of Magome’s various museums, the Tōson Kinenkan in the village centre is dedicated to native son Shimazaki Tōson (1872–1943), who put Magome on Japan’s literary map with his historical novel Yoake Mae (Before the Dawn). Artefacts are labelled in Japanese only.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MAGOME

By train The closest train station to Magome, 9km west in the workaday town of Nakatsugawa (中津川), is served by 1–2 hourly direct trains from Matsumoto (1hr 15min–2hr 30min; ¥1980–3840) and Nagoya (55min–1hr 30min; ¥1340–2540). Regular buses to Magome run from platform three outside the station (1–2 hourly; 25min; ¥560).

By bus Around five buses daily connect Magome with Tsumago (¥600), and continue to the JR station at Nagiso (¥800).

Tourist information Magome’s tourist office (daily 8.30am–5pm; 026 359 2336, kiso-magome.com), opposite the Tōson Kinenkan, stocks some good English maps and brochures; the staff speak Japanese only and can make accommodation bookings.

ACCOMMODATION

Magome-chaya Guesthouse 馬籠茶屋 4296 Magome 057 369 2038, magomechaya.com/en. The friendly Japanese-Filipino owners of this well-maintained but relatively basic old ryokan, near the tourist office, speak some English. They also run the restaurant opposite, open for breakfast (around ¥1100) and dinner (around ¥3300) only. ¥8500

Tajimaya 但馬屋 4266 Magome 026 459 2048, kiso-tajimaya.com. Charming inn, which has been in the same family for eight generations, downhill from the tourist office. Accommodation is in tatami rooms, while the toilets and the rather glorious wooden baths are shared. Dinner, included with breakfast in the rate, is served around an irori fireplace. ¥18,400

Tsumago

妻籠

Given the number of tourists it now attracts it’s hard to believe that, back in the 1960s, TSUMAGO, 8km north of Magome, was virtually a ghost town, with most of its traditional Edo-era houses on the verge of collapse. The locals banded together to restore the village’s buildings, earning Tsumago protected status and helping to spark the idea of cultural preservation across Japan. Telegraph poles and TV aerials are banished from sight, so that the scene that greets you on the pedestrian-only main street must be very similar to that encountered by lords and their retinues passing through here hundreds of years ago.

You can get a bird’s-eye view of Tsumago from the former site of Tsumago castle, destroyed in the late sixteenth century. The route up is signposted off the hiking path that heads north out of the village towards Nagiso.

Nagiso-machi Museum

南木曽町博物館, Nagiso-machi Hakubutsukan • 2190 Azuma • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥600 (includes Historical Museum) • 026 457 3322

The main section of the two-part Nagiso-machi Museum, the Waki Honjin Okuya (脇本陣奥谷), is a finely constructed two-storey mansion that dates from 1877 and was a designated post inn for government officials. Photographs in the Historical Museum opposite (歴史博物館, Rekishi Hakubutsukan) show just how dilapidated Tsumago had become before restoration.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TSUMAGO

By train The nearest station to Tsumago, 3.5km north at Nagiso (南木曽), has 1–2 hourly services to both Matsumoto (1hr 10min–2hr; ¥1520–2720) and Nagoya (1hr 10min; ¥2890). Around five buses daily connect Nagiso with Tsumago (¥300) and Magome (¥800), or you can simply walk the very pleasant rural stretch of the Nakasendō path between Nagiso and Tsumago in under an hour.

Tourist information Tsumago’s helpful tourist office is in the village centre (daily 8.30am–5pm; 026 457 3123, tumago.jp/english).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Although Tsumago holds several lunchtime restaurants and cafés, evening eating options are limited; overnight visitors should expect to eat in their lodgings. Local specialities include sansai soba (buckwheat noodles with mountain vegetables) and gohei-mochi (balls of pounded rice coated in a sweet nut sauce).

Daikichi 大吉 902-1 Nagiso-chō 026 457 2595. Small minshuku at the northern end of the village with tatami rooms. Breakfast and dinner are available (one meal around ¥1000, two around ¥2500), often featuring authentic mountain dishes – which can include horse sashimi – and local wines. ¥13,650

Fujioto 藤乙 Nagiso-chō 026 457 3009, tsumago-fujioto.jp/en. This charming traditional inn, with friendly English-speaking owners, is set in a beautiful Japanese garden. Rates include two meals. ¥24,000

Matsushiro-ya 松代屋 807 Nagiso-chō 026 457 3022, matsushiroya.sakura.ne.jp. Upmarket, 200-year-old ryokan that has been run by the same family for nine generations. Breakfast and dinner are available (¥2200–6000 extra). Speciality dishes include carp sashimi, grilled river fish, and tora soba (soba noodles with yams). Closed Thurs. ¥11,880

Rikyu 琉球 803-1 Nagiso-chō 026 457 2682. This traditional restaurant, towards the north end of the village, has tatami and Western-style seating, and is a great place to sample both sansai soba (from ¥900) and gohei-mochi (¥250 each). Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–4.30pm.

Okuhida

奥飛騨

Far less visited by foreign tourists than nearby Kamikōchi or Norikura Kōgen, OKUHIDA offers excellent hikes, hot springs and mountain views. HIRAYU ONSEN (平湯温泉) is the area's transport hub, and the biggest of the five onsen towns in the area. Though it's relatively charmless at first, get away from the bus terminal and you'll find steaming hot springs, restaurants serving mountain cuisine, and glorious scenery. Hirayu no Mori (daily 10am–9pm; ¥500; hirayunomori.co.jp), with its 16 huge baths, is an ideal stop after a hike.

Heading deeper into the mountains you'll come to SHINHOTAKA ONSEN (新穂高温泉), little more than a stretch of hotels alongside a river with access to an impressive ropeway. It's known for having the most adundant hot springs in the area, and makes a relaxing place to enjoy a soak outdoors – try Shinhotaka no Yu (late April to Oct daily 8am–6pm; ¥300; bit.ly/shinhotaka), a large mixed-gender rotemburo by the Gamata River.

Shinhotaka Ropeway

新穂高ロープウェイ • Daily, varies by season; first ascent 8–9am, last descent 4.15–4.45pm • Round trip ¥2900; fee of ¥600 for bags over 6kg • 057 889 2252, shinhotaka-ropeway.jp

The best way to appreciate the magnificent scenery in Okuhida is taking the Shinhotaka Ropeway up the 2909m-high Nishi-Hotaka-dake. The first section is just a short hop up to Nabedaira Kogen Station, where you'll find a very hot outdoor footbath (free). After this you board a double-decker gondola (Japan's first) for the seven-minute ascent to Nishihotakaguchi Station, at 2176m. The views over the jagged peaks are breathtaking, and you'll have easy access to mountain trails from here (though be prepared for it to be cold, with snow on the ground into early summer). If you'd like to add a small walk, tackle one of the many short trails from Nabedaira Kogen Station (snowshowing excursions also head out in winter).

For something a bit more strenuous, hike from Nishihotakaguchi Station up to Nishiho mountain lodge (1hr 30min), then either continue up to the peak of Nishi-Hotaka-dake (3hr; only possible when there's no snow, usually July to Sept) or even make your way down into Kamikōchi (3hr).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION OKUHIDA

By bus Most Okuhida services are run by Nōhi Bus ( www.nouhibus.co.jp), though some are Alpico or Keio. They stop at Hirayu more frequently than Shinhotaka.

Destinations Matsumoto (4 daily; 1hr 30min); Takayama (1–2 hourly; 1hr); Shinjuku, Tokyo (6–7 daily; 4hr 30min); Toyama (3 daily; 3hr).

By car Driving is the easiest way to access remote Okuhida; you can rent a car in Takayama.

Tourist information The area's main tourist offices are opposite the bus terminal in Hirayu Onsen (daily 10am–9pm; 057 889 3030) and just down the road from Shinhotaka Ropeway (daily 10am–5pm; 057 889 2458).

ACCOMMODATION

Outside of Hirayu Onsen there are very few options for evening meals, so most visitors eat at their ryokan.

Aihōkan 愛宝館 650 Hirayu Onsen 057 889 2628, aihoukan.com. The kind and helpful staff really make a stay at this simple ryokan something special. All rooms are Japanese-style, and the beautifully presented meals feature local ingredients and dishes. The very cheapest rooms are small and don't have a view, but they're still a steal for the area. Breakfast is an extra ¥1650 per person, dinner ¥3850. ¥9100

Hotakasō Sangetsu 穂高荘山月 Shinhotaka Onsen 057 889 2036, okuhida-sangetsu.jp/en. Though it doesn't look particularly special from the outside, step into this riverside hotel and you'll find wooden beams that look like they're made from whole trees, a cosy irori hearth, a soothing waterfall garden and elegant tatami rooms. Guests can make use of a free shuttle service to two other Hotakaso hotels to enjoy even more onsen baths. Breakfast is included; sumptuous dinners of mountain cuisine also available. Wi-fi only in the lobby area. ¥35,500

Mozumo もずも 579 Hirayu Onsen 057 889 2020, mozumo.com. This modern ryokan makes for an indulgent, romantic stay. It's adults only (no one under 20), there's a private open-air bath in every room, and the exquisite design invites the clear mountain light and stunning scenery into the building. Breakfast and dinner are available for an extra fee, featuring local delicacy hoba miso among many, many other dishes. ¥45,000

Takayama

高山

An absolute must-see destination, little touched by wartime bombs or modern development, the deservedly popular tourist town of TAKAYAMA, on the Gifu-ken side of the Central Alps 110km northeast of Nagoya, was once an enclave of skilled carpenters employed by the emperors to build palaces and temples in Kyoto and Nara. This area is known as Hida, so you’ll also see the town referred to as “Hida Takayama”, or simply “Hida”.

Takayama is a delight to stroll around. It started out as a castle town, ruled by six generations of the Kanamori family between 1586 and 1692. Their long-vanished castle stood atop a conical hill to the south, with Takayama itself ranged along the east bank of the Miya-gawa, fringed by a row of shrines and temples on the forested slopes to the east. The town’s compact original core, now home to the picturesque San-machi Suji neighbourhood, remains its most appealing quarter, peppered with old merchant houses and small museums, and complemented by cafés and restaurants.

Takayama-jin’ya

高山陣屋 • 1-5 Hachiken-machi • Daily: March–July, Sept & Oct 8.45am–5pm; Aug 8.45am–6pm; Nov–Feb 8.45am–4.30pm • ¥440; English-language tours free • 057 732 0643

The administrative complex from which Takayama was ruled during the feudal era, Takayama-jin’ya, on the west bank of the river, makes an absorbing first stop for history-minded visitors. Built in 1615, this small-scale palace was the seat of power for the governor of the Hida area, and is the only such building to survive in Japan.

All visits follow a set course through the complex; the best way to understand what you’re seeing is to join one of the regular guided tours in English. The first half of the route leads through the main building, reconstructed in 1996. You then move on to a rice storehouse dating from 1816, where only a few of the remarkable old maps and documents have been translated into English.

San-machi Suji

三町筋

The San-machi Suji area, on the east bank of the Miya-gawa, occupies the site of Takayama’s original settlement, even if the dark wooden merchant houses that fill it date largely from the mid-nineteenth century. The quarter’s three principal narrow streets are most evocative at dusk, when the crowds have thinned. During the day, you’ll have to negotiate your way through rickshaws and tourists pottering in and out of craft shops, cafés and sake breweries.

Takayama Museum of History and Art

飛騨高山まちの博物館, Hida-Takayama Machi no Hakubutsukan • 75 Kamiichino-machi • Daily 9am–7pm; garden daily 7am–9pm • Free • 057 732 1205

Although the large Takayama Museum of History and Art, in the heart of San-machi Suji, is housed in several centuries-old storehouses, their original appearance is now barely discernible. Instead the museum consists of bright modern galleries that do a great job of tracing the town’s history and its former rulers, as well as providing a good introduction to local traditions and festivals. Pick up a detailed English-language brochure when you enter; few of the actual captions have been translated.

Hida Archeology Museum

飛騨みんぞくココ館, Hida Minzoku Koko-kan • 82 Kamisanno-machi • Daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 10am–4pm • ¥500 • 057 732 1980

The former home of a doctor who was also a ninja now holds the intriguing Hida Archeology Museum. The ramshackle house itself is bursting with tricks and secrets, including a false ceiling in one room, which is suspended on ropes and thus could be sent crashing down on intruders, while adjoining storerooms hold assorted ancient arrowheads, pottery and carvings. There’s no sign outside; look for a small but undeniably fearsome suit of samurai armour displayed in a glass case outside.

FLOATS AND FESTIVALS OF TAKAYAMA

In Takayama’s two spectacular festivals, the Sannō Matsuri (April 14–15) and the Hachiman Matsuri (Oct 9–10), eleven huge, elaborate yatai (floats), adorned with mechanical dolls (karakuri), are paraded around town. Even if you’re not in town during the festivals, which attract hundreds of thousands of visitors, you can still view some of the yatai at the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan (高山祭屋台会館;, a large exhibition hall within the grounds of the Sakurayama Hachiman-gū shrine. At any one time, four out of the eleven floats and the golden mikoshi (portable shrine) are displayed inside a huge glass case, around which visitors wind their way at different levels, in order to see all of the decoration closely. Many of the floats date from the seventeenth century; those that aren’t currently on show are stored in tall storehouses (yatai-gura) scattered around Takayama.

Takayama Shōwa Hall

高山昭和館, Takayama Shōwa-kan • 6 Shimoichinomachi • Daily 9am–6pm • ¥800 • 057 733 7836, takayama-showakan.com

An idiosyncratic labour of love, hidden away behind a (free) retro-sweets-and-souvenirs shop, the Takayama Shōwa Hall celebrates everyday life during the boom years of the mid-twentieth-century Shōwa era. All sorts of artefacts and domestic treasures are tucked into re-created shops and homes, laid out in a vast warren-like warehouse. For Japanese visitors, it’s a real nostalgia-fest; foreigners tend to scoot through in half an hour or so, though you can linger over a movie in the eleven-seat cinema, or play Nintendo games dating from 1983 onwards.

Sakurayama Hachiman-gū

桜山八幡宮 • 78 Sakura-machi • Shrine precincts Open 24hr, free • Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan and Sakurayama-Nikkō-kan Daily: March–Nov 9am–5.30pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥900 • 057 732 5100, hidahachimangu.jp/english

Set on the slopes a short walk northeast of San-machi Suji, Takayama’s main shrine, Sakurayama Hachiman-gū, was founded during the fourth century. The temple precincts are well worth exploring in their own right, and immediately below you’ll find two modern museums, both covered by the same ticket. The Takayama Yatai Kaikan holds floats from the town’s major festivals, and the Sakurayama-Nikkō-kan displays a dazzling one-tenth scale replica of 28 buildings from Nikkō’s Tōshōgū shrine, with lighting that fluctuates to reproduce sunrise and sunset.

Karakuri Museum

獅子会館 • 53-1 Sakura-machi • Daily 9.05am–4.25pm • ¥600 • 057 7320 881

Just south of the Sakurayama Hachiman-gū, the Karakuri Museum offers enjoyable demonstrations of the automated karakuri puppets that enliven Takayama’s great festivals. A video of a shishi (mythical lion) dance is screened at regular intervals during the day, and you can admire masks and musical instruments used in the dances. It also has an excellent gift shop.

Higashiyama Teramachi and Shiroyama-kōen

A very pleasant walk along the hillside southeast of the Sakurayama Hachiman-gū, initially following the narrow Enako-gawa, leads you through the tranquil Higashiyama Teramachi (東山寺町) area, where thirteen temples and five shrines are dotted among the soaring pine trees. Signposted footpaths then cross the river and continue to Shiroyama-kōen (城山公園), a wooded park that stands on the remains of Lord Kanamori’s castle, destroyed over three hundred years ago. Climb to the top of the hill, and it’s still possible to trace the foundations of the donjon.

TAKAYAMA’S MORNING MARKETS

Every day, starting at 6am in summer and 7am in winter, and lasting until around noon, Takayama has two morning markets (asa ichi). The fruit and veg market is held in front of the jin’ya, while the larger, more tourist-orientated market stretches along the east bank of the Miya-gawa, between the Kaji-bashi and Yayoi-bashi. Here, apart from pickles and flowers, you can buy local handicrafts, (including sarubobo, the little fabric baby monkeys seen all over Takayama), grab a coffee or locally brewed beer, or sample the sweet marshmallow snack tamaten.

Hida Folk Village

飛騨民俗村, Hida Minzoku-mura • 1-590 Kamiokamoto-chō • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥700 • 057 734 4711, hidanosato-tpo.jp • 2.2km southwest of the station; 30min walk, or "Sarubobo" bus (¥210 one-way, or ¥930 return ticket including admission)

In a lovely hillside location, overlooking the mountains west of town, the Hida Folk Village is an outdoor showcase for more than twenty traditional buildings gathered from the Hida area. You can explore inside the houses, which include gasshō-zukuri thatched dwellings from the Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama districts. Many hold displays of the farm implements and folk crafts of their original owners, while in the four old houses next to the ticket gate you can watch real artisans working at traditional crafts such as lacquering and woodcarving. At the nearby Hida-Takayama Crafts Experience Centre (飛騨高山思い出体験館; daily 10am–4pm; 057 734 4711, omoidetaiken.jp), you can try your hand at a few local crafts yourself (these can cost between ¥600–1600).

Hida Takayama Museum of Art

飛騨高山美術館, Hida Takayama Bijutsukan • 1-124-1 Kamiokamoto-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1300 • 057 735 3535, htm-museum.co.jp/english.php • 1.7km southwest of the station; 25min walk or "Sarubobo" bus (¥210 one-way)

The bright, modern Hida Takayama Museum of Art, perched on a small hill en route to the Hida Folk Village, focuses on wonderful Art Nouveau and Art Deco artefacts. A beautiful glass fountain by René Lalique, which once stood in the Paris Lido, greets you at the entrance; further on, you’ll find lustrous objets d’art by Gallé, Tiffany glass lamps, and the interior designs of Charles Rennie Mackintosh (on whose work the style of the excellent café is based) and the Vienna Secessionists.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TAKAYAMA

By train Takayama Station, on the western edge of downtown, is linked by the scenic, cross-country JR Takayama line with Toyama to the north and Gifu and Nagoya to the south.

Destinations Gifu (5 daily; 2hr 5min); Nagoya (hourly; 2hr 20min); Toyama (4 daily; 1hr 30min).

By bus The long-distance bus terminal ( www.nouhibus.co.jp) is next to the train station.

Destinations Gifu (6 daily; 2hr); Gujō Hachiman (5 daily; 1hr 10min); Hirayu Onsen (every 30min; 1hr); Kamikōchi (11 daily; 1hr 25min); Kanazawa (4 daily; 3hr); Kyoto (5 daily; 4hr 15min); Matsumoto (4 daily; 2hr 30min); Nagoya (12 daily; 2hr 40min); Ogimachi, in Shirakawa-gō (hourly; 50min); Osaka (5 daily; 5hr 30min); Shinjuku, Tokyo (6 daily; 5hr 30min); Toyama (4 daily; 2hr 30min).

Tourist information The Hida tourist information office, in front of the station, has clued-up, English-speaking staff (daily April–Nov 8.30am–7pm, Dec–March 8.30am–5.30pm; 057 732 5328, www.hida.jp). Online information on the broader Hida area can also be found at hida-kankou.jp.

GETTING AROUND

By bike Bicycles can be rented from Hara Cycle on Kokubunji-dōri (¥300/hr, 1300/day), or one of the many other bike shops and local hostels.

By car If you fancy renting a car to explore the region, drop in to Toyota Rent-a-Car opposite the station (daily 8am–8pm; 057 736 6110, rent.toyota.co.jp).

Tours Two daily half-day bus tours head up to different villages in the Shirakawa-gō region (¥6690; www.nouhibus.co.jp).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

If you’re hoping to visit Takayama during its festivals, be sure to book well ahead, and expect rates to be significantly higher.

J-Hoppers ジェイ・ホパーズ 5-52 Nada-machi 057 732 3278, takayama.j-hoppers.com. Converted from a former hotel, this friendly hostel is a slick affair. They offer dorms and private rooms (with and without private bathrooms), provide bike rental at just ¥700 per day, organize inexpensive trips to destinations like Shirakawa-gō and Kamikōchi, and even provide wellies for sloshing through the winter snow. Dorms ¥2600, doubles ¥7000

Oyado Koto-no-Yume 古都の夢 6-11 Hanasato-machi 057 732 0427, kotoyume.com. Small-scale ryokan, close to the station, which blends traditional style with contemporary design touches; guests get to wear their choice of colourful modern yukata. Both indoor and outdoor onsen are available. Breakfast ¥2000 extra. ¥22,300

Rickshaw Inn 旅籠 力車イン 54 Suehiro-chō 057 732 2890, rickshawinn.com. As well as friendly English-speaking owners, this relaxing place has well-furnished tatami (shared or private bathrooms) or Western rooms (private bathrooms only). There’s a comfy lounge with sofas, English newspapers, magazines and art books as well as a small kitchen for self-catering. The stylish ground-floor suite is great value for a family or group (¥31,000 for 6 people). Breakfast ¥550 extra. ¥8800

Sōsuke 惣助 1-64 Okamoto-machi 057 732 0818, irori-sosuke.com. Good-value traditional minshuku, a 10min walk west of the station, opposite the Takayama Green Hotel. The building is 180 years old and has a traditional irori hearth; the thirteen Japanese guest rooms share two single-sex bathrooms. Breakfast ¥880 extra. ¥11,000

Spa Hotel Alpina スパホテルアルピナ 5-41 Nada-machi 057 733 0033, www.spa-hotel-alpina.com/en. Efficient, modern hotel where the hundred-plus pleasant, smallish rooms offer slightly more contemporary design than your average business option. It also has the advantage of rooftop spa baths with a decent view. Breakfast ¥1500 extra. ¥10,800

Sumiyoshi 寿美吉 4-21 Hon-machi 057 732 0228, sumiyoshi-ryokan.com. Delightful gaijin-friendly ryokan, offering en-suite or shared-bath Japanese-style rooms in a century-old building that enjoys a great riverside location. The staff are very friendly and the place is chock-full of interesting antiques and knick-knacks. Breakfast costs an additional ¥1100, and dinner ¥3300. Cash only. ¥15,200

Takayama Hostel Guesthouse Zenkō-ji 高山ホステルゲストハウス善光寺 4-3 Tenman-chō 057 732 8470, takayamazenkoji.jp. Attached to the imposing Zenkō-ji temple, on the hillside east of town, this appealing, recently renovated hostel offers visitors a true only-in-Japan experience. All rooms but the cheapest have tatami floors and graceful screens, and some open onto a pleasant rock garden. Like its Nagano namesake, Zenkō-ji holds a dark underground corridor that hides the “key to paradise”. It also offers experiences such as Zen meditation classes and shakyō (sutra writing). Discounts for longer stays. ¥17,250

Takayama Station Hostel 高山ステーションホステル 6-51 Hanasato-machi 057 757 5688. Friendly, welcoming guesthouse just a couple of minutes from the JR station and Nōhi bus terminal. There's a wide variety of room types, both Western and Japanese, from singles to adjoining rooms for families. Add good kitchen facilities, private bath (¥1000 for 45min), bike rental and bus tours to Shirakawa-gō, and you've got an excellent budget base in Takayama. ¥6400

EATING MAP

The best dishes to sample at Takayama’s numerous restaurants are local specialities such as sansai ryōri, consisting of mountain vegetables, ferns and wild plants, or the renowned Hida beef. Also look out for sansai soba, buckwheat noodles topped with greens, and hōba miso, vegetables mixed with miso paste and roasted on a magnolia leaf above a charcoal brazier (a beef version is also served). One delicious snack sold around town is mitarashi-dango – pounded rice balls dipped in soy sauce and roasted on skewers. Note that many of the San-machi Suji tourist restaurants are only open at lunch, when they can get very busy.

RESTAURANTS

EvilTex イーブルテックス 6-19 Hanasato-machi 057 757 5888, eviltex13.com. This lively TexMex joint serves up delicious burgers, enchiladas and tacos. The chef has put a lot of work into developing delicious meat-free options (the soy patties are convincingly meaty), so vegetarians and vegans have plenty of options, as do gluten-free diners. Generously sized burgers and TexMex meals are around ¥1300. There's also a good array of world beers. Mon & Wed–Sat 11.30am–10pm, Sun 11am–9pm.

Heianraku平安楽 6-7-2 Tenman-chō 057 732 3078. Small, friendly restaurant, a short walk from the station, with room for just a dozen diners, seated either on tatami mats or at the counter. The menu takes in both Chinese and Japanese cuisine, with favourites like pork dumplings and deep-fried chicken, and a particular emphasis on vegetarian options, including tofu and local wild vegetables. A simple dish with rice and soup costs well under ¥1000, while a set meal for two is around ¥3000. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–1pm & 5.30–8pm.

Hisadaya 久田屋 11-3 Kamisanno-machi 057 732 0216, hisadaya-hida.com. Delightful, traditional restaurant laid out in the antique-filled rooms of a former merchant’s house in the San-machi Suji neighbourhood. Excellent set meals of sansai ryōri start at ¥1500 per person. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10.30am–3pm.

SAKE BREWERIES

The Hida area has been well known for its sake for over 400 years; at one time Takayama is said to have held some 56 breweries. Now just six functioning breweries are left in San-machi Suji – Hirata (平田), Harada (原田), Kawashiri (川尻), Niki (二木), Hirase (平瀬) and Tanabe (田邊), all easily spotted by the balls of cedar leaves (sugidama) hanging above their entrances. Each takes it in turn to provide free tours (Jan & Feb 10am–noon & 1–4pm, days vary) of their facilities – check with the tourist office for details.

Le Midi ル·ミディ 2-85 Hon-machi 057 736 6386, le-midi.jp. This sophisticated bistro, which feels like a slice of Paris with its red-and-white checked curtains, makes a great place to sample top-quality Hida beef and other local meat and fish dishes. A steak will set you back at least ¥5800, while lunch menus start at ¥2000 and dinner at ¥5300. Another branch, across the road, specializes in French cuisine, and there’s also a takeaway booth selling its speciality pumpkin pudding. Mon–Wed & Fri 11.30am–3pm & 6–9.30pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–3.30pm & 5–9.30pm.

Udondokoro Yanagibashi Jikū 饂飩処柳ばし時空 46 Yuraku-chō 057 734 8323. Small udon noodle restaurant, with one table on a raised tatami area and a few counter seats. Bowls start at just ¥550, and all can be made as a large portion for ¥150 more or small for ¥50 less. Simple, unfussy, delicious food – a real locals' spot. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm; closed third Wed every month.

CAFÉS

Café Flore カフェフロール 37 Aioi-chō 057 735 0099. Small French café with a laidback jazz soundtrack, serving excellent coffee plus a short menu of European favourites such as pasta dishes and crêpes, costing ¥1000 or less and including vegetarian options. Cash only. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–4.30pm & 6.30–10pm.

Tomy Müesli トミィミューズリー 4-60 Hon-machi 080 6975 4013, tomymuesli.com. Veggie- and vegan-friendly café, attached to a shop selling very fancy muesli. The menu features dishes like quiche and curry, made with home-grown organic vegetables, plus delicious cakes and desserts. Lunch sets around ¥1300. Some meat dishes also available. Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–8pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Takayama abounds in small bars, especially in the Asahi-machi area between the station and the Miya-gawa.

Desolation Row デゾレーション ロウ 30 Asahi-machi 908 077 5699. Named after the Dylan song, this cosy little bar (look for the blue door) is not surprisingly owned and run by a major fan of 1960s rock music, who’s delighted to discuss his vinyl collection – no requests, though – over whisky, sake or beer. Daily 8pm–late.

Red Hill レッド·ヒル 2-4 Sowa-chō 057 733 8139, redhilltakayama.wordpress.com. You’ll get a warm welcome from the English-speaking owner of this small bar, which serves a good range of bottled beers from around the world and appealing food drawn from a global palette. Daily 7pm–midnight.

Tonio トニオ 4-65 Hon-machi 057 732 1677, lovetonio.web.fc2.com. Festooned with old film posters and similar memorabilia, this wood-panelled “Western bar” is a quiet place for a beer and a snack, with European-style pub-grub dishes costing around ¥1000. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 7pm–late.

Wada 和田 23 Asahi-machi 057 733 4850. If you find yourself wondering where the locals choose to drink and nibble on snacks in this touristy town, look no further. Don’t be put off by the menu items like fried chicken bowels with miso, or grilled pig’s trotters – there are plenty of other things to try, and they’re all good value. Dishes start at ¥500. Daily 5pm–1/2am.

Furukawa

古川

With its old white-walled storehouses ranged alongside a canal, sake breweries, and temples decorated with intricate woodcarvings, charming FURUKAWA, in Hida province, is like a compact version of Takayama, minus the crowds. The sleepy riverside town makes an easy day-trip from Takayama, and comes alive during its annual spring festival.

Hida Furukawa Matsuri Kaikan

飛騨古川まつり会館 • 14-5 Ichino-machi • Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 057 773 3511, okosidaiko.com

To get a taste of what Furukawa’s festival is all about, drop in at the Hida Furukawa Matsuri Kaikan, five minutes’ walk west of the station. Here you can inspect three of the nine yatai, as well as watch a 3-D film of the festival and a computer-controlled performance by one of the puppets that adorn the yatai. Local craftsmen work here, too. Drums used in the festival are on show in an open hall on the square in front of the main hall.

Hida Crafts Museum

飛騨の匠文化館, Hida No Takumi Bunkakan • 10-1 Ichino-machi • Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥300, or ¥1000 with Hida Furukawa Matsuri Kaikan • 057 773 3321

Long revered for their skills, Hida craftsmen were recruited to build many of Japan’s most famous temples, especially in Kyoto and Nara. The Hida Crafts Museum highlights local woodworkers’ traditional tools and techniques, with displays showing how buildings – including the museum itself – are constructed from wooden beams without using nails. You can try for yourself on scale models.

Shirakabe-dozō

白壁土蔵

In the Shirakabe-dozō district, which begins south of the square at Matsuri Kaikan, a row of traditional storehouses stands beside a narrow, gently flowing canal packed with carp. Walk for five minutes southeast along the canal from here until you reach the river, and one block to the west you’ll find Honkō-ji (本光寺), an attractive temple decorated with the intricate carving and carpentry for which the town is famous. Return to the town centre along Ichino-machi-dōri and you’ll come to the 240-year-old candle shop Mishima, where a candle-maker gives regular demonstrations (三嶋; 3-12 Ichino-machi; Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–5pm; 057 773 4109). The same street also holds Furukawa’s two remaining sake breweries – Kaba (蒲; 6-6 Ichino-machi; daily 9am–5pm) and Watanabe (渡辺; 7-7 Ichino-machi; daily 9am–5pm) – both of which will gladly let you sample their products whether you buy or not.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION FURUKAWA

By train Frequent local trains connect JR Hida-Furukawa Station with Takayama (15min; ¥240).

By bus Regular buses link Furukawa with Takayama (6 daily; 40min; ¥370).

Tourist information Helpful staff in the Hida-shi tourist information centre, just outside Hida-Furukawa Station (daily 9am–5pm; 057 773 3180, hida-kankou.jp), can assist with finding accommodation.

Tours Satoyama Experience offer highly recommended half-day cycling and walking tours in and around Furukawa (cycling ¥5400–8100, walking ¥5500; 057 773 5715, satoyama-experience.com).

FURUKAWA MATSURI

The Furukawa Matsuri festival (April 19 & 20) celebrates the arrival of spring with grand parades of wonderfully decorated floats (yatai). The highlight is the Okoshi Daiko procession, which starts at 9pm on April 19 and runs until around 2am. Hundreds of men, clad only in white cotton loincloths and led by over a thousand people carrying lanterns, compete to place small drums (tied to long poles) atop a portable stage that bears the huge main drum, which is all the while being solemnly thumped. The men also balance atop poles and spin around on their stomachs. Extra late-night trains and buses run on festival days between Takayama and Furukawa. The yatai and mikoshi processions happen during the day. For more information see bit.ly/furukawamatsuri.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

With Takayama so close, the only strong reason to stay in Furukawa itself is if you’re planning to hike in the surrounding mountains.

Hida Furukawa Youth Hostel 飛騨古川ユースホステル 180 Nobuka 057 775 2979. A good base for hikers, this modern hostel is housed in a homely wooden cabin amid rice fields, a 15min walk from Hida-Hosoe Station towards Shinrin-kōen (two stops north of Hida-Furukawa). Breakfast ¥600. Dorms ¥4500

Kappō Katsumi 割烹克己 5-19 Furukawa-cho 057 773 7888. A great spot for lunch, in a grey building a minute’s walk west of the station. The lunchtime wagamama teishoku (¥1000) is a feast of delicious vegetable, tofu and fish dishes, while in the evening you can try their fish specialities (around ¥2000). Mon–Sat 11.30am–1.30pm & 5–10pm.

Maeda まえだ 11-10 Furukawa-chō 057 773 2852, j47.jp/maeda. On the right-hand corner of the junction with the road from the station, this friendly place, which focuses on beef, has set meals starting around ¥2000. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5–8.30pm.

Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama

白川郷 • 五箇山

Thanks to their remarkable thatched A-frame houses – a rare form of architecture called gasshō-zukuri – three picturesque villages in the Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama areas, northwest of Takayama, were jointly designated a World Heritage Site in 1995. Among the many fabled bolt holes of the Taira clan after their defeat at the battle of Dannoura, these communities were until the mid-twentieth century almost entirely cut off from fast-modernizing Japan. Then, when the damming of the Shō-kawa in the 1960s, together with the drift of population away from the countryside, threatened their survival, local residents began a preservation movement. They have been so successful that the three villages – Ogimachi in Gifu-ken (Shirakawa-gō), and Suganuma and Ainokura in neighbouring Toyama-ken (collectively called Gokayama) – are now in danger of being swamped by visitors. It is still worth braving the crowds to see these extraordinary buildings, set in idyllic valleys surrounded by forests and mountains. To feel the full magic of the place, arrange to stay overnight in a gasshō-zukuri house.

Ogimachi

荻町

In the shadow of the sacred mountain Hakusan, OGIMACHI is home to 114 gasshō-zukuri houses, the largest collection within the Shirakawa-gō area of the Shō-kawa valley. Many of the thatched houses were moved here when threatened by the damming of the river, creating a landscape that looks somewhat contrived. Matters aren’t helped by the fact that the main road slices right through the village centre; it’s closed to traffic between 9am and 6pm each day, but remains responsible for a massive daily influx of tourists. Even so, this is a real working village, where most of the houses are still populated by families who farm rice in the surrounding fields. Start your explorations by hiking up to the Shiroyama viewpoint (tenbōdai; shuttle bus available; road may be closed in winter) at the north end of the village, which offers a bird’s-eye view of Ogimachi’s layout.

PRAYING-HANDS HOUSES

Gasshō-zukuri (合掌造り) means “praying hands”, because the sixty-degree slope of the thatched gable roofs is said to recall two hands joined in prayer. The sharp angle is designed to cope with the heavy snowfall hereabouts, while the size of the houses is the result of multi-generational family living. The upper storeys of the home were used for industries such as making gunpowder and cultivating silkworms. The thatched roofs – many of which have a surface area of around six hundred square metres – are made of susuki grass, native to the northern part of the Hida region (wooden shingles were used in the south), and have to be replaced every 25 to 35 years. Since it can cost ¥20 million to re-thatch an entire roof, many of the houses fell into disrepair until the government stepped in with grants in 1976. Now the local preservation society decides which buildings are most in need of repair each year and helps organize the yui, a two-hundred-strong team who work together to re-thatch a roof within a single day. Despite these initiatives, however, fewer than 200 gasshō-zukuri houses now survive.

Wada-ke

和田家 • 997 Ogimachi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 057 696 1058

The thatch-roofed Wada-ke, a prime example of local architecture which has a lily pond in front, is one of several “museum” houses. Home to generations of the wealthy Wada family, it contains fine lacquerware, decorations and furniture passed down for over two hundred years.

Myōzen-ji Temple Museum

明善寺郷土館, Myōzen-ji Kyodo-Kan • 679 Ogimachi • Daily: April–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4pm • ¥300 • 057 696 1009

The huge five-storey Myōzen-ji Temple Museum was once the living quarters for the priests and monks from the adjoining temple; on its upper floors you can see where over a tonne of silk cocoons was cultivated each year. Gaps in the floorboards allowed the smoke from the irori fire to permeate the whole building, preserving the wood and thatch. A narrow passageway connects the main house to the thatched temple next door.

Gasshō-zukuri Folklore Park

合掌造り民家園, Gasshō-zukuri Minka-en • 2499 Ogimachi • March Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 8.40am–5pm; April–Nov daily 8.40am–5pm; Dec–Feb Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–4pm • ¥600 • 057 696 1231, shirakawago-minkaen.jp

On the west side of the Shō-kawa, reached by a footbridge, the Gasshō-zukuri Folklore Park is an open-air museum that holds some 25 buildings gathered from around the region, including a very picturesque watermill. Take your time exploring the buildings, then enjoy a rest and a free cup of tea in the Nakano Chōjirō family house near the exit.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION OGIMACHI

By bus Regular buses connect Takayama to Ogimachi (hourly, 50min; ¥2470), with two daily continuing to Kanazawa (1hr 15min; ¥1850), and four daily to Toyama (1hr 25min; ¥1750); reserve seats in advance. The same bus company also runs daily tours from Takayama (¥6690; www.nouhibus.co.jp). Direct buses from Takaoka (6 daily, 2hr 10min; ¥1800; kaetsunou.co.jp), which is a stop on the JR Hokuriku line, stop en route at Suganuma (¥800) and Ainokura (¥1300).

By car Touring the region by car is recommended; car rental is available in Takayama.

Tourist information The main tourist information offices (daily 9am–5pm; shirakawa-go.gr.jp) are at the bus terminal and in the car park beside the Gasshō-zukuri Folklore Park, where the buses stop. There’s a third, smaller office by a rest area in the village centre (daily 9am–4pm).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

The only way to see Ogimachi without the crowds is to stay overnight. Several of the thatch-roofed houses hold hugely romantic minshuku. Most do not accept credit cards or have wi-fi, and all can be reserved (up to four months in advance) through shirakawa-go.gr.jp.

Furusato ふるさと 588 Ogimachi 057 696 1033. Just south of Myōzen-ji, this thatched farmhouse has endearing decorative touches throughout its tatami rooms. Rates include two meals. ¥20,000

Kōemon 幸エ門 456 Ogimachi 057 696 1446. A short walk from the bus terminal, this 200-year-old thatched farmhouse is redolent of times gone by, and has a friendly English-speaking owner. The modern bathrooms are shared. Rates include two meals. ¥18,920

Magōemon 孫右ェ門 360 Ogimachi 057 696 1167. Spacious traditional accommodation, sharing bathrooms, in a particularly charming thatched house that dates back three centuries. The riverside garden is a delight, while good food is served in the large communal dining room. Rates include two meals. ¥25,000

EATING MAP

If you don't want a sit-down meal (or if you have dietary requirements), options are somewhat limited, but there are plenty of good spots for a picnic. There's no convenience store here, so you'd do best to bring food with you.

Irori いろり 374-1 Ogimachi 057 696 1737. You can eat around the raised hearth at this busy restaurant on the main road, at the north end of the village. There are good-value set lunches, including fish, noodles or tofu, from ¥1300, or you can simply drop in for coffee. Daily 10am–4pm.

Shiraogi しらおぎ 155 Ogimachi 057 696 1106, j47.jp/shiraogi. In the village centre opposite the small tourist office, this traditional building with lots of painted wooden signs outside has an English menu and offers a set menu of local delicacies (ask for the shiraogi-setto), including trout cooked with miso, for ¥2800 a head. Smaller sets start at ¥1000, and simple meals like soba or katsudon at ¥680. Daily 10am–4pm.

Suganuma

菅沼

Route 156, along the Shō-kawa valley, tunnels through the mountains, running for the most part alongside the frequently dammed river as it meanders north. Some 10km from Ogimachi, at a sharp bend in the river, the road passes the quaint hamlet of SUGANUMA, which holds nine gasshō-zukuri houses. It’s well worth dropping into the Gokayama Minzoku-kan (五箇山民族館; daily 9am–4.30pm; 076 367 3652), a folklore museum made up of two houses. One displays artefacts from daily life, the other details the production of gunpowder, manufactured here because Suganuma’s remote location allowed the ruling Kaga clan to keep it secret.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SUGANUMA

By bus Buses stop at Suganuma en route between Ogimachi (30min; ¥860) and Takaoka (1hr 20min; ¥1200), and when going from Kanazawa to Ogimachi (April–Nov only; 1hr; ¥1600).

Ainokura

相倉 • g-ainokura.com

The last of the three World Heritage Site villages, and arguably the loveliest, is AINOKURA, 10km northeast of Suganama. Buses drop visitors on the main road, a five-minute walk from the village, which nestles on a hillside and takes roughly an hour to explore. Hike up the hill behind the main car park for a great view, and look in at the Ainokura Minzoku-kan (相倉民俗館; daily 8.30am–5pm; ¥300 per building, ¥500 for both; 076 366 2732), a tiny two-building museum of daily life that includes examples of the area’s handmade paper and toys. You can also try making the local paper (washi) at the Washi Paper Workshop (五箇山和紙漉き体験館; Mon–Sat 8.15am–5pm; ¥700/sheet; 076 366 2016, www1.tst.ne.jp/gokawasi). Though it's much quieter than Ogimachi, Ainokura still gets busy enough to somewhat obscure its many charms; to experience the village at its best, stay overnight.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE AINOKURA

By train If you’re heading to Ainokura from the Sea of Japan coast, take a train as far as Jōhana (城端), which has direct connections to Takaoka (hourly, 55min; ¥590), then catch a bus.

By bus Buses stop at Ainokura en route between Ogimachi (45min; ¥1300), Jōhana (25min; ¥600) and Takaoka (1hr; ¥1000).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Be sure to reserve accommodation well in advance – they don’t like people just showing up. Seven gasshō-zukuri offer lodging, and it’s advisable to take dinner in-house, as there are few other evening options.

Goyomon 五ヨ門 438 Ainokura 076 366 2154, www.goyomon.burari.biz. Cosy gasshō house which has been run by the same family for several generations. The food is hearty and plentiful; breakfast and dinner available (¥1200 per person for breakfast only, ¥3800 for half board). ¥10,800

Matsuya まつや 445 Ainokura 076 366 2631, gokayama-matuya.com. Serving soba, tempura and sweets, this restaurant and souvenir shop is a friendly place for lunch. They’ll even look after your bags while you wander around. Dishes start at around ¥500, with set meals from ¥1850. Daily 8am–5pm.

Nakaya なかや 231 Ainokura 076 366 2457, bit.ly/nakayaainokura. The friendly owners speak a little English at this tranquil, 350-year-old gasshō house, which offers very tasty home-cooked traditional meals around the irori fireplace. Rates include two meals. ¥21,000

Murakami-ke

村上家 • 742 Kaminashi • Mon & Thurs–Sun: April–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec & March 9am–4pm • ¥300 • 076 366 2711, murakamike.jp

The modern village of KAMINASHI, halfway between Ainokura and Suganuma, is home to Murakami-ke, one of the oldest houses in the valley, dating from 1578. The owner gives guided tours around its tatami rooms, pointing out the sunken pit beside the entrance where gunpowder was once made, and finishing with spirited singing of folk tunes accompanied by a performance of the bin-zasara, a rattle made of wooden strips.

Toyama

富山

Northeast of the Gokayama valley, neither the coastal city of Takaoka nor the prefectural capital of TOYAMA (富山), further west, particularly warrants an overnight stop, and you might well do better to press on south along the coast to Kanazawa and the more scenic Noto peninsula. That said, Toyama holds some worthwhile sights, and makes a good start or finish for excursions along the renowned Alpine Route to Nagano-ken.

Toyama Municipal Folkcraft Village

富山市民俗民芸村, Toyama-shi Minzoku Mingei Mura • 1118-8 Anyobo • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥100 per building • 076 433 8270 • Free shuttle buses (7 daily, on the hour from 10am) run from the Excel Tokyu hotel opposite the station

Gathered together at the foot of the Kureha hills, across the river 3km west of the station, the Toyama Municipal Folkcraft Village consists of nine separate museums and galleries that highlight local arts, crafts and industries. A short stroll up the hillside brings you to the atmospheric temple Chōkei-ji (長慶寺), where the Gohyaku Rakan terraces contain over five hundred miniature stone statues of the Buddha’s disciples.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOYAMA

By plane Toyama Airport ( www.toyama-airport.jp/en), used by international and domestic flights, stands 15km south of the city centre, to which it’s connected by regular shuttle buses.

Destinations Sapporo (1 daily; 1hr 30min); Shanghai (2 weekly; 2hr 35min); Seoul (3 weekly; 2hr); Taipei (4 weekly; 2hr 20min); Tokyo Haneda (4 daily; 1hr 5min).

By train Toyama Station, in the centre of the city, is on the Shinkansen line between Kanazawa and Tokyo, and is also connected with Takayama and Nagoya to the south. The private Chihō line runs from the separate but adjoining Dentetsu Station to Tateyama, the western terminus of the Alpine Route.

Destinations Kanazawa (every 30min; 25min); Nagano (hourly; 1hr); Nagoya (4 daily; 4hr); Takayama (4 daily; 1hr 35min); Tateyama (hourly; 1hr); Tokyo (1–3 hourly; 2hr 10min–2hr 40min).

By bus Long-distance buses arrive at Toyama Station. There are regular connections to Kanazawa (1hr 15min), Kyoto (5hr), Nagoya (4hr), Niigata (3hr 50min), Osaka (6hr), Takayama (via Shirakawa-gō; 3hr 25min) and Ikebukuro in Tokyo (6hr 30min).

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information There’s an information centre in Matsukawa Park, by the reconstructed castle (daily 9am–6.30pm; 076 439 0800, toyamashi-kankoukyoukai.jp/en).

By bicycle Toyama has a comprehensive city bike rental scheme (¥150 per day; additional fee for individual rides longer than 30min; en.cyclocity.jp).

By light rail An easy-to-use light rail (tram) system makes it simple to get around central Toyama. International visitors can get coupons for two free tram rides.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Minamoto Masu-no Sushi Museum 源ますのすしミュージアム 37-6 Nano-chō 076 429 7400, www.minamoto.co.jp. In this 130-year-old restaurant and sushi factory, a 10min walk from Anjoji bus stop en route to Chitetsu from Toyama Station, the house speciality is trout sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves. You can see traditional and modern sushi manufacturing processes and take part in workshops. Daily: museum 9am–5pm; dining room 11am–2.30pm.

Sharaku 写楽 5-13 Ōtemachi 076 491 0700, sushi-toyama.jimdo.com. The friendly staff at this very traditional Japanese restaurant, just south of Matsukawa Park, take huge pride in showing off the famed local seafood, including specialities like Japanese glass shrimp. Everything is detailed in English on their website, which they’ll show you on an iPad. Sushi and sashimi set meals start at ¥1180, or you can order individual dishes from around ¥500. Mon–Fri 11.30am–1pm & 5–9pm, Sat 5–9pm.

Toyama Excel Hotel Tokyu 富山エクセルホテル東急 1-2-3 Shintomi-chō 076 441 0109, www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/toyama-e. Fairly upmarket business hotel opposite the station, offering good-sized rooms with a light, airy feel. The 15th-floor restaurants have sweeping views over the city. Shuttle buses from the folk village leave from here. Buffet breakfast ¥2000. ¥13,800

Toyama Manten 富山マンテンホテル 2-17 Honmachi 076 439 0100, toyama.manten-hotel.com. This modern business hotel, on the light rail network 1km south of the station, offers decent-sized rooms, and stands close to a lively nightlife area that’s filled with restaurants. Rates do not include breakfast and will cost you an extra ¥1200. ¥9100

Kanazawa and around

金沢

Back in the nineteenth century KANAZAWA, meaning “golden marsh”, was Japan’s fourth-largest city, built around a grand castle, of which only a city park now remains. Connected to the Shinkansen network since 2015, Kanazawa today is riding a new wave of confidence. Abounding in attractive historic areas, and renowned for its arts and crafts (it produces a staggering 98 percent of Japan's gold leaf), the capital of Ishikawa-ken is known to the Japanese as “little Kyoto”, being the only city other than Kyoto where geisha still train, and its modern face is ably represented by the impressive 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.

Kanazawa suits a leisurely pace, so set aside at least a couple of days. Having escaped bombing during World War II, traditional inner-city areas, such as Nagamachi, with its samurai houses, and the charming geisha district of Higashi Chaya, remain intact and are a joy to wander around. If you have longer to spend in the area, head to tranquil Eihei-ji or the laidback spa resorts of Kaga Onsen for a day or two.

TATEYAMA–KUROBE ALPINE ROUTE

Perhaps the most dramatic and memorable way to travel from the Sea of Japan across the Alps to Nagano-ken – or vice versa – is to follow the spectacular Tateyama–Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート; alpen-route.com/en). The 90km route, which traverses the roof of Japan in roughly six hours, via a quick-fire succession of buses, trains, funicular and cable-cars, only operates between mid-April and mid-November, depending on the snow.

Most visitors are day-trippers making round trips from one side or other; coming from the west, the most popular destination is Murodō, while from the east it’s Daikanbō. You can pay for each segment as you come to it, but you can save money by buying either a return ticket to and from your chosen destination or a one-way ticket for the entire route (¥12,460 between Toyama and Nagoya). Whichever you choose, start early, to allow time for some hiking.

Passengers on the Alpine Route can arrange to have their luggage transferred from Toyama Dentesu Station or Tateyama to Shinano-Ōmachi Station, or, if you’re travelling the other way, from Shinano-Ōmachi to Toyama or Tateyama stations, or any hotel in Toyama (¥1300–2500).

TATEYAMA TO MURODŌ

To reach the start of the route from Toyama, take the Chihō line to the village of Tateyama (立山) at the base of Mount Tateyama (hourly; 1hr; ¥1230, JR passes not valid), one of the most sacred mountains in Japan. There you board the Tateyama Cable Railway for the seven-minute journey up to the small resort of Bijo-daira (美女平), meaning “beautiful lady plateau”. One of the most memorable parts of the journey follows, taking the Tateyama Highland bus up the twisting alpine road, with a potential stop to hike along a boardwalk through the wetlands at Midagahara (弥陀ケ原), as far as Murodō (室堂). Early in the season, snow is piled far higher than the buses to either side of the road, giving the feel of a deep canyon. There’s a decent canteen in the bus terminal at Murodō, and several places to stay nearby, while five minutes’ walk north brings you to the Mikuriga-ike (みくりが池), an alpine lake set in a 15m-deep volcanic crater. Longer hikes in the vicinity include continuing to Jigokudani (地獄谷; Hell Valley), an area of boiling hot springs twenty minutes beyond the lake.

Tateyama Murodō Sansō 立山室堂山荘 14 Ashikuraji, Murodō 076 463 1228. Not surprisingly, considering the altitude, the accommodation at this mountain hotel is rather basic, but it is comfortable and clean, and holds public baths, including one with a great panoramic view over the mountains. This is also a good place to head for lunch; the curry dishes are tasty. Rates include two meals. ¥20,000

MURODŌ TO KUROBE-KO

From Murodō, the next section of the journey is a ten-minute bus ride along a tunnel that cuts right through Mount Tateyama to reach Daikanbō (大観峰). The view across the mountains from up here is spectacular, and you’ll be able to admire it further as you take the Tateyama Ropeway cable-car down to Kurobe-daira (黒部平). From there in turn you’re carried by the Kurobe Cable Railway down to a subterranean terminus five minutes’ walk from the edge of Kurobe Lake. This is the most likely section of the route to get congested in busy periods; between August and October especially, you may have to wait a while for a spot on the ropeway and/or cable railway. The lake was formed by the huge Kurobe dam (黒部ダム; www.kurobe-dam.com), which was completed in 1963 and has an iconic status for Japanese visitors similar to that of the Hoover Dam in the US. Several tunnels and roadways now used by the Alpine Route were originally constructed to aid work on the dam. Boat trips venture out across the lake (30min; ¥1100), and there are excellent hiking trails. An easy thirty-minute walk south gets you to a campsite; bring the right gear and the Tateyama topographical map, and you can hike for days.

KUROBE-KO TO SHINANO-ŌMACHI

From the cable railway, you’ll have to walk 800m to the far side of the dam to catch the trolley bus for a sixteen-minute journey through tunnels under Harinoki-dake to the end of the route proper, in the village of Ōgizawa (扇沢), across in Nagano-ken. Buses from here run direct to Nagano (5 daily; 1hr 45min; ¥2800; alpico.co.jp), or down to the JR station at Shinano-Ōmachi (信濃大町; 40min; ¥1390), where you can catch trains to Matsumoto or Hakuba.

Brief history

Kanazawa had its heyday in the late fifteenth century, when a collective of farmers and Buddhist monks overthrew the ruling Togashi family, and the area, known as Kaga (a name that’s still applied to the city’s magnificent crafts, such as silk dyeing and lacquerware, and its refined cuisine), became Japan’s only independent Buddhist state. Autonomy ended in 1583, when the daimyō Maeda Toshiie was installed as ruler by the warlord Oda Nobunaga, but Kanazawa continued to thrive as the richest province in Japan, churning out five million bushels of rice a year.

Kenroku-en

兼六園 • Kenroku-machi • Daily: March to mid-Oct 7am–6pm; mid-Oct to Feb 8am–5pm • ¥320, or ¥500 with Kenroku-en Plus One Ticket (which covers one other cultural attraction) • 076 234 3800, bit.ly/kenroku-en

Originally the outer grounds of Kanazawa castle, the magnificent Kenroku-en officially ranks in the top three gardens in Japan (the others are Kairaku-en in Mito and Kōrakuen in Okayama). Laid out over two centuries from the 1670s onwards, it opened to the public in 1871. The name, “combined six garden”, refers to the six horticultural graces it embraces: spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, water and panoramic views. It’s a delightful place to stroll around, with an ingenious pumping system that keeps the hillside pools full of water and the fountains working. Carefully pruned and sculpted pine trees adorn the crafted landscape, and sweeping vistas overlook Kanazawa’s geisha district, Higashi Chaya. To spare yourself the likelihood of being disturbed by megaphone-toting guides and coach parties, come in the early morning or late afternoon.

Seison-kaku

成巽閣 • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥700, ¥1000 for special exhibitions • 076 221 0580, seisonkaku.com

The daimyō Maeda Nariyasu built Seison-kaku, an elegant two-storey shingle-roofed villa at the southern end of Kenroku-en, in 1863, as a retirement home for his mother. Look out for paintings of fish, shellfish and turtles on the wainscots of the shōji sliding screens in the formal guest rooms downstairs. The view from the Tsukushi-no-rōka (Horsetail Corridor) across the mansion’s own raked-gravel garden is particularly enchanting. Unusually for a traditional Japanese house, it has glass windows, imported from the Netherlands and installed so that the occupants could look out at falling snow in winter.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts

石川県立伝統産業工芸館, Ishikawa Kenritsu Dentō Sangyō Kōgeikan • 1-1 Kenroku-machi • 9am–5pm: April–Nov daily, closed third Thurs of month; Dec–March Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun • ¥210 • 076 262 2020, ishikawa-densankan.jp

Directly accessible from Kenroku-en, the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts is a showcase for contemporary expressions of the rich local craft heritage, including lacquerware, dyed silk, pottery, musical instruments and fireworks, for which Kanizawa is renowned. Although the exhibits galleries are not for sale, each has a price tag; a gold leaf and lacquer Buddhist family altar, for example, would set you back ¥4.5 million. The shop downstairs (free entry) sells a limited array of less prized items.

Gyokusen-en

玉泉園 • 8-3 Kosho-machi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥700, ¥1500 with tea • 076 221 0181

Across the main road on Kenroku-en’s northeastern flank, the much smaller sixteenth-century garden Gyokusen-en was laid out on two levels on a steep slope. Its many lovely features include mossy stone paths that lead past two ponds and a mini waterfall. A tearoom serves green tea and sweets.

Kaga Yūzen Traditional Industry Centre

加賀友禅伝統産業会館, Kaga Yūzen Dentō Sangyō Kaikan • 8-8 Kosho-machi • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥310 • 076 224 5511, kagayuzen.or.jp

At the Kaga Yūzen Traditional Industry Centre, next to Gyokusen-en, visitors can watch artists painting sumptuous designs on silk, following a 500-year-old dyeing method. You can then try your own hand at this traditional Kanazawa craft (¥1650–2750), or dress in a kimono made from the dyed material (¥2000–6000; reservation required).

Kanazawa-jō

金沢城 • Marunouchi • Daily: March to mid-Oct 7am–6pm; mid-Oct to Feb 8am–5pm • Grounds free, castle buildings ¥320; covered by the ¥500 Kenroku-en Plus One Ticket • 076 234 3800, bit.ly/kanazawa-jo

The craggy hill at the heart of Kanazawa was first fortified in 1546, while the mighty castle of Kanazawa-jō took shape early in the seventeenth century. That was almost entirely destroyed by successive fires, most conclusively in 1881, so the area is now occupied by a castle park rather than an actual castle. Other than scattered ruins, the sole relic of the original castle is a towering eighteenth-century gateway, Ishikawa-mon, which can be reached via footbridge from Kenroku-en.

Since 2001, several buildings in the castle’s inner enclosure have been rebuilt using methods and plans from the Edo period. These include the Hashizume bridge and gate that leads into the enclosure; the three-storey, diamond-shaped Hishi Yagura and Hashizume-mon Tsuzuki Yagura watchtowers; and the 98m-long Gojikken Nagaya corridor that connects them (all daily 9am–4pm). The sheer scale of these structures is impressive, especially considering they represent such a small proportion of the original complex. Inside they only hold scanty displays, but you can admire the intricate joinery and inspect the scale model that carpenters used to master their complex task.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

金沢２１世紀美術館, Kanazawa Nijū-ichi Seiki Bijutsukan • 1-2-1 Hirōsaka • Public spaces daily 9am–10pm; exhibits Tues–Thurs & Sun 10am–6pm, Fri & Sat 10am–8pm • Entry fee varies by exhibition • 076 220 2800, kanazawa21.jp/en

An enormous geometry puzzle, the hyper-modern 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art consists of a circle of glass that embraces several galleries along with a café, a library and a free crèche, and makes a dynamic hub for Kanazawa’s forward-thinking arts scene. Exhibitions frequently change, but specially commissioned works on permanent display includes James Turrell’s Blue Planet Sky, a great opportunity to relax and watch the clouds float by, and Leandro Elrich’s trompe-l’oeil Swimming Pool, which encourages fun interaction between viewers upstairs around the edge, and those walking beneath. The twelve tuba-shaped pipes that sprout out of the lawns surrounding the gallery are by the German artist Florian Claar; if you speak into one, sound comes out of another.

Kanazawa Nō Museum

金沢能楽美術館, Kanazawa Nōgaku Bijutsukan • 1-2-25 Hirōsaka • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • ¥310 • 076 220 2790, kanazawa-noh-museum.gr.jp

The Kanazawa Nō Museum shines light on Japan’s most refined dramatic art. On the virtual stage on the ground floor, you can try on a nō costume and get your picture taken. Upstairs displays include breathtakingly ornate costumes and eerie masks, as well as videos of performances.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art

石川県立美術館, Ishikawa Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 2-1 Dewa-machi • Daily 9.30am–6pm • Permanent collection ¥370 (or covered by the ¥500 Kenroku-en Plus One Ticket), up to ¥1000 for special exhibitions • 076 231 7580, ishibi.pref.ishikawa.jp

The Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art displays beautiful examples of calligraphy, kimono, pottery, lacquerware and other relics of the Maeda clan, largely dating back to the seventeenth century, along with a more eclectic collection of contemporary local art. Regular special exhibitions showcase local and national art.

D.T. Suzuki Museum

鈴木大拙館, Suzuki Daisetsu-kan • 3-4-20 Honda-machi • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • ¥300 • 076 221 8011, kanazawa-museum.jp/daisetz

Kanazawa native son Daisetz Teitarō Suzuki (1870–1966), the philosopher and writer largely responsible for introducing Zen Buddhism to the Western world, is commemorated in the impressive D.T. Suzuki Museum. The highlight of the stylish contemporary building is its inner courtyard “contemplation zone”, a wonderfully serene spot for peaceful reflection, built around a shallow pool and blending minimal architecture, simple materials, plants and natural light.

Nagamachi

長町

Scenic Nagamachi, west of Kōrinbō, is a compact neighbourhood of twisting cobbled streets, gurgling streams and old houses, protected by thick mustard-coloured earthen walls, topped with ceramic tiles. Samurai and rich merchants formerly lived here, and many of the traditional buildings remain private homes.

Nomura House

野村家, Nomura-ke • 1-3-32 Nagamachi • Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–5.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥550 • 076 221 3553, nomurake.com

A former samurai home, Nomura House is noteworthy for its compact but beautiful garden, featuring a carp-filled stream, waterfall and stone lanterns. The rich, but unflashy, materials used to decorate the house reveal the wealth of the former patrons, while, in keeping with the culture of the era, a simple teahouse serves matcha, accompanied of course by sweets.

Higashi Chaya

東茶屋 • 15min walk northeast from Kenroku-en

Kanazawa is the only Japanese town apart from Kyoto where the old-style training of geisha still takes place. In the largest and most scenic of the three neighbourhoods where this is carried out – Higashi Chaya, northeast of Kenroku-en across the Asano-gawa – several old teahouses are open to visitors. Ochaya Shima (お茶屋志摩; 1-13-21 Higashiyama; daily 9am–6pm; ¥500; 076 252 5675, ochaya-shima.com) is the most traditional, while Kaikarō opposite (懐華樓; 1-14-8 Higashiyama; daily 10am–5pm; ¥750; 076 253 0591, kaikaro.jp/eng) is decorated in a more modern style, and features an unusual Zen rock garden made of broken glass plus a tearoom with gilded tatami mats. Both offer tea (without geisha) for a small extra fee, and occasional events where you can watch geisha performances (expect to pay over ¥20,000, which also covers a multi-course meal and drinks).

Tea is also part of the deal at the venerable Fukushima Sangen-ten (福嶋三絃店; 1-1-18 Higashiyama; Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, closed second & fourth Sat of the month; ¥500; 076 252 3703), a shop and teahouse where you can learn to pluck the Japanese stringed instrument, the shamisen.

Nishi Chaya

西茶屋 • 5min walk southwest of Sai-gawa Ōhashi

Across from downtown Kazanawa, on the south side of the Sai-gawa, the pretty Nishi Chaya geisha district is less commercialized than Higashi Chaya. Wandering the streets is a pleasure, while to see inside the beautifully decorated teahouse Hana-no-Yado (華の宿; 2-24-3 Nomachi; daily 9am–5pm) you need only buy a cup of coffee or matcha (¥500).

Myōryū-ji

妙立寺 • 2-12 Nomachi • Tours daily: March–Nov Mon–Fri hourly 9am–4pm, Sat & Sun every 30min 9am–4.30pm; Dec–Feb hourly 9am–4pm • ¥1000 • 076 241 0888

The highlight of the temple-packed Teramachi (寺町) district, south of the Sai-gawa, is Myōryū-ji, also known as ninja-dera. Completed in 1643 and belonging to the Nichiren sect of Buddhism, this temple has long been spuriously associated with ninja on account of its many secret passages, trick doors and concealed chambers, including a lookout tower. While you can walk freely through the precincts, you have to book a tour to see inside.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KANAZAWA

By plane Komatsu Airport ( komatsuairport.jp), 30km southwest of Kanazawa, is connected to Kanazawa Station by buses that stop first in the Katamachi district downtown (hourly, 50min; ¥1150).

Destinations Fukuoka (4 daily; 1hr 20min); Hong Kong (2 weekly; 3hr 30min); Naha (daily; 2hr 25min); Sapporo (daily; 1hr 30min); Sendai (2 daily; 1hr); Seoul (3 weekly; 1hr 55min); Shanghai (4 weekly; 2hr 20min); Taipei (2 daily; 2hr 20min); Tokyo Haneda (10 daily; 1hr); Tokyo Narita (daily; 1hr 15min).

By train The Hokuriku Shinkansen should extend to Kagaonsen, Fukui and Tsuruga by 2022, and will ultimately continue to Kyoto and/or Osaka. For now, if coming from the Kansai area, take the Thunderbird express from Osaka, via Kyoto, or a direct express service from Kyoto.

Destinations Fukui (every 30min; 45min); Kyoto (every 30min; 2hr 5min); Nagano (hourly; 1hr 5min); Nagoya (4 daily; 3hr); Osaka (every 30min; 2hr 40min); Tokyo (hourly; 2hr 30min); Toyama (every 30min; 20min).

By bus The long-distance bus terminal is on the east side of the train station.

Destinations Nagoya (10 daily; 4hr); Niigata (2 daily; 4hr 40min); Osaka (2 daily; 3hr 40min); Sendai (daily; 8hr 30min); Shirakawa-gō (2 daily; 2hr); Takayama (4 daily; 2hr 5min); Tokyo (8 daily; 7hr 30min); Toyama (8 daily; 1hr 15min); Wajima (4 daily; 2hr).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Kanazawa’s excellent tourist information office, in the JR station (daily 8.30am–8pm; 076 232 6200, visitkanazawa.jp), has English-speaking staff who can arrange for a guide to show you around town for free. The Eye on Kanazawa website ( eyeon.jp), run by a free English-language tourist paper, is another great resource for visitors.

International exchange foundations The Rifare Building, at 1-5-3 Hon-machi, a 5min walk southeast of the station, is home to both the Kanazawa International Exchange Foundation (KIEF; 金沢国際交流財団; 2F; Mon–Fri 9am–5.45pm; 076 220 2522, kief.jp), and the Ishikawa Foundation for International Exchange (国際交流石川財団; 3F; Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm; 076 262 5931, ifie.or.jp). Both are good places to meet locals who want to practise English.

GETTING AROUND

By bus The useful Kanazawa Loop Bus (daily 8.30am–6pm; ¥200, one-day pass ¥500) circuits around the city, covering all the main sights.

By car Toyota Rent-a-Car ( 076 223 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp) has an office at Kanazawa Station.

By bike Machinori bikes can be rented from over twenty docking stations around the city, including the station; simply swipe your credit or IC card to get started (¥200 per day; additional fee for individual rides longer than 30min; see machi-nori.jp/en).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

A host of business hotels are concentrated near the train station, while the central Kōrinbō district offers easier walking access to Kenroku-en and other sights, and the Higashi Chaya neighbourhood to the east is also a pleasant place to spend a night. Local ryokan are listed on yadotime.jp/english.

Camellia Inn Yukitsubaki カメリアイン雪椿 4-17 Kosho-machi 076 223 5725, camellia.gr.jp. Laura Ashley meets traditional Japan at this charming guesthouse that offers seven spacious, en-suite Western-style rooms and a lounge set in a kura. Rates include breakfast; add ¥4000 for a dinner of French cuisine (Mon & Wed only). ¥24,000

Ginmatsu 銀松 1-17-18 Higashi Chaya 076 252 3577. Pleasant, good-value and very welcoming minshuku, tucked away in the lovely Higashi Chaya district. The neat tatami rooms share a communal bathroom with shower, and guests are also given free tickets for the local sentō (bathhouse). Breakfast ¥1000 extra. ¥7600

Guesthouse Namaste ゲストハウスナマステ 6-14 Kasaichi-machi 076 255 1057, guesthouse-namaste.com. Conveniently located in a calm side street a 5min walk from the station, this well-priced option offers impeccably clean tatami male and female dorms, two Western-style twin rooms, and a tatami family suite, plus a communal bathroom, kitchen and lounge. The relaxed English-speaking owner will give you good tips on where to go and rents bikes for ¥500 a day. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥6000

Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel 金沢東急ホテル 2-1-1 Kōrinbō 076 231 2411, www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/kanazawa-h. In an ideal location near Kenroku-en, the Contemporary Art Museum and Nishi Chaya district, this high-end chain hotel has a full range of amenities (from currency exchange to a gym) and helpful, well-informed staff. Rooms are spacious and well-designed, often featuring a touch of the gold leaf for which Kanazawa is so famous. Excellent breakfast around ¥2800. ¥21,000

Murataya Ryokan 村田屋旅館 1-5-2 Katamachi 076 263 0455, murataya-ryokan.com. Set in an old building, this central ryokan has some stylish touches and is run by a welcoming family well used to foreign guests. They also have a handy map of local restaurants. Western breakfast ¥550, Japanese ¥850. ¥10,400

Hotel MyStays Premier ホテルマイステイズプレミア金沢 2-13-5 Hirooka 076 290 5255, mystays.com. The comfortable Western-style rooms in this good-value business hotel are much larger than the norm in Japan, and even have full-sized baths, while there’s a good café on the ground floor. It’s also only a 5min walk from the station, albeit in the “wrong” direction, on its less frenetic western side. Breakfast around ¥1500. ¥11,250

Nikkō Kanazawa 日航金沢 2-15-1 Honmachi 076 234 1111, hnkanazawa.jp. Good views are guaranteed in this thirty-storey hotel facing Kanazawa Station, where the sophisticated modern European design has been upgraded to a high standard, and you have several good restaurant options for dinner. Breakfast buffet ¥2500. ¥18,300

Pongyi ポンギー 2-22 Rokumai-machi 076 225 7369, pongyi.com. Convivial budget guesthouse, beside a gurgling stream a 5min walk south of the station, behind the old sake shop Ichimura Magotaro. The cosy dorms are in a converted kura (warehouse), and a small but spruce tatami room sleeps up to four people. The hospitable English-speaking owner donates ¥100 of each night’s accommodation charge to a children's charity. Bicycle rental ¥400 per day. Dorms ¥3500, double ¥6500

EATING MAP

Kanazawa’s refined local cuisine, kaga ryōri, centres on seafood such as steamed bream, snow crab and prawns. You’ll find the freshest fish at Ōmichō Market, where stalls sell ready-to-eat raw and grilled snacks, small sushi bars are scattered around the periphery, and several more formal restaurants upstairs stay open for dinner. Another local favourite is jibuni, boiled duck or chicken and vegetables in a viscous broth spiced up with a dab of wasabi.

Café Dumbo カフェ ダンボ 2-11-6 Kōrinbō 076 255 6966. Bright little coffee house run by a friendly Japanese couple, which as well as good espresso drinks and cakes serves a simple lunch menu of omelettes and sandwiches, all under ¥1000. The upstairs room, with books and magazines, makes a great place to relax. Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–6.30pm.

Fukuwauchi 福わ家 1-9-31 Hikosō-machi 076 264 8780. There’s a warm welcome and equally warming udon, soba and nabe (stew) at this rustic complex of four restaurants in a 120-year-old building next to Ko-bashi. Set lunch menus from ¥1000, dinner from ¥2000. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 11.30am–3pm & 5.30–9pm, Sat & Sun 11am–9pm.

Full of Beans フルオブビーンズ 41-1 Satomi-chō 076 222 3315, fullofbeans.jp. Cute café that’s a real haven of peace, just metres from the busy Tatemachi shopping street. Settle into the upstairs dining room, which has the feel of a gallery, to enjoy the mixed Mediterranean/Japanese menu, with lunchtime pasta, risotto or curry sets starting at ¥1380, and a la carte dishes in the evening. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–4pm & 6–11pm (Fri & Sat 11.30pm).

Ichinokura 市の蔵 88 Aokusa-machi 076 224 3371, ichi-no-kura.jp. The pick of the half-dozen restaurants on the second floor above Ōmichō Market, this very lovely, formal Japanese place serves sashimi platters of ultra-fresh fish from ¥1750, but it’s more fun to go order specialities like duck-and-mushroom jibuni for ¥1080. Daily 11am–10pm.

Maimon Sushi 金沢まいもん寿司 Kanizawa Station 076 225 8988, maimon-susi.com/shop/kanazawaeki. For a quick, high-quality meal at the station, you can’t beat this tiny outlet of a successful local chain. Tucked in among the shops near the west exit, it only has a dozen seats, so you may have to wait outside before getting a chance to order. Mixed sushi platters from ¥1650 at lunch, ¥2200 at dinner, or individual rolls from ¥160. Daily 11am–10pm (last orders 9pm).

Miyoshian 三芳庵 1-11 Kenroku-machi 076 221 0127, miyoshian.net. Utterly irresistible century-old restaurant in Kenroku-en, alongside the waterfall just inside the garden’s northern entrance. Specializes in kaga ryōri; try the bentō (boxed lunches; from ¥1650) or drop in for a cup of matcha and sweets (¥750; until 4.30pm). Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–2.30pm (varies slightly by season).

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

The epicentre of Kanazawa’s nightlife is the buzzing Katamachi Scramble, the neon-lit drag that runs between the Sai-gawa to Kōrinbō, where the surrounding warren of streets is chock-full of bars. Check with the tourist office for upcoming nō plays, classical music performances, and free concerts by the city’s geisha, who also perform at local festivals (mainly July and Aug).

Itaru Honten いたる本店 3-8 Kakinobatake 076 221 4194, itaru.ne.jp. Wildly popular with locals, Kanazawa’s best izakaya is a great place to get acquainted with the excellent local sakes and enjoy some sashimi or grilled fish. Mon–Sat 5.30–11.30pm.

Machrihanish マクリハニッシュ 2F Nishino Bldg, 2-4 Kigura-machi 076 233 0072. Haba-san used to work at the Royal St Andrew’s Golf Club, and continues to communicate his passion for Scotch whisky and golf at this convivial bar stocking some 170 different single malts and blends. If spirits aren’t your thing, you can always have a Guinness. Mon–Thurs 6.30pm–2am, Fri & Sat 6.30pm–3am.

Mokkiriya もっきりや 3-6 Kakinokibatake 076 231 0096, spacelan.ne.jp/~mokkiriya. This snug little wood-panelled jazz bar is a local legend which has been running almost 50 years, serving well-priced coffee, drinks and snacks, and putting on live music most nights (when there’s a minimum spend). Advance booking is advisable for bigger acts. Daily noon–midnight.

Pole Pole ポレポレ 2-31-30 Katamachi 076 262 6510, polepole-legian.com. Down by the river, and dedicated to the spirit of Bob Marley, Kanazawa’s premier reggae bar is a laidback spot to while away an hour or two with friendly locals. Daily 7pm–5am.

RMX レミックス 2-30-2 Katamachi 076 262 0881. There’s a friendly welcome at this relatively spacious gay bar, pronounced “remix”. The cover charge is ¥1800 including one drink and an appetizer. Mon–Wed & Sun 8pm–2am, Fri & Sat 8pm–4am.

Sturgis スタージス 4F Kirin Bldg, 1-7-15 Katamachi 076 262 9577. Like stumbling into a New Year’s Eve party, circa 1975, this silver-streamer-festooned bar is the domain of rocker Nitta-san who, if things are quiet, takes to the stage to play a live set or two. There’s a ¥1000 cover charge. Daily 8pm–5am.

SHOPPING MAP

Kanazawa is a fantastic place to buy souvenirs and lovely objets d’art. Many shops sell the austerely rustic Ōhi and highly elaborate Kutani pottery; several good options line Hirozaka, the street leading up to Kenroku-en from Kōrinbō. Also check out the Tatemachi shopping street for quirky design shops and independent retailers.

Hakuza Hikarikura 箔座ひかり蔵 1-13-18 Higashiyama 076 251 8930, hakuza.co.jp. Specialist shop in the heart of Higashi Chaya, selling all kinds of gold-leaf-decorated products, including chocolate cake. It’s worth popping in just to take a look at their magnificent gilded kura (storehouse). Daily 9.30am–6pm (winter until 5.30pm).

Ishikawa-ken Kankō Bussankan 石川県観光物産館 2-20 Kenroku-machi 076 222 7788. Three-storey tourist shop with a good selection of everything from food products to washi paper and pottery. Craft classes (¥1200–1800) take place in the upper-floor workshops. March–Nov daily 10am–6pm, Dec–Feb Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–6pm.

Kaburaki Shōho 鏑木商舗 1-3-16 Nagamachi 076 221 6666, kaburaki.jp. This Kutani pottery shop, restaurant and bar in the heart of Nagamachi occupies an elegant old house surrounded by pleasant gardens. Their small museum displays some gorgeous pieces. Mon & Sun 9am–6pm, Tues–Sat 9am–10pm.

Kanazawa Crafts Hirosaka 金沢クラフト広坂 1-2-25 Hirosaka 076 265 3320, crafts-hirosaka.jp. Gallery-like shop selling exquisite examples of Kanazawa’s traditional crafts, as seen in the crafts museum, and hosting special exhibitions upstairs. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.

Sakuda さくだ 1-3-27 Higashiyama 076 251 6777, goldleaf-sakuda.jp. A dazzling shop that specializes in gold-leaf products, from beautiful screens to gilded golf balls. You can watch gold leaf being made, and staff are happy to explain the process. Daily 9am–6pm (varies slightly by season).

TEMPLE OF ETERNAL PEACE

For a rewarding day-trip from Kanazawa, head south to the serene hillside temple of Eihei-ji (永平寺; daily 8am–5pm; ¥500; 077 663 3012, daihonzan-eiheiji.com/en). Consisting of more than seventy buildings that blend seamlessly into the cedar-covered hillside, the temple is one of the two headquarters of Sōtō Zen Buddhism. Established by the Zen master Dōgen Zenji in 1244, it’s now home to two hundred shaven-headed monks.

Eihei-ji stands 15km east of Fukui (福井). Direct buses from JR Fukui Station (¥780; 35min) – served by frequent trains from Kanazawa (45min; ¥1340) and buses from Komatsu airport (1hr; ¥1400), plus the Hokuriku Shinkansen from 2022 – make it easy to reach the temple itself. As it’s liable to be closed for special services, check in advance with the temple or Fukui tourist office (daily 8.30am–7pm; 077 620 5348, fuku-e.com).

If you're an affiliate of a Sōtō Zen Buddhist organization or interested in the practice of Zen, you can arrange to stay overnight here and participate in the monks’ daily routine, including cleaning duties and pre-dawn prayers and meditation (¥9000–10,000). Serious devotees can join a multi-day course (¥20,000). If you balk at the thought of a 3.50am wake-up call, though, the recently completed Zen Village may be a better option ( 077 663 1188, daihonzan-eiheiji.com/en/zen.html), where you can take part in morning rituals at the temple, zazen (seated meditation) practice and enjoy shōjin-ryōri meals, while staying in slightly more comfort.

Kaga Onsen

加賀温泉

Between Kanazawa and Fukui on the Sea of Japan coast is the laidback, pleasantly old-fashioned cluster of hot spring resorts known as Kaga Onsen. The station is in Kaga City, but the smaller towns are of more interest, especially picturesque Yamanaka and historic Yamashiro.

Yamashiro Onsen

山代温泉

In Yamashiro Onsen, the central attraction is the unusual Ko-Sōyu (古総湯; 2-1 Banshōen-dōri; daily 6am–10pm; ¥500), a public bath built in a Meiji style now seen almost nowhere else, where the natural hot-spring pools are lit by the sun through stained-glass windows. Just off the town square where Ko-Sōyu sits is Yakuo-in (daily 24hr; free), a very picturesque temple with wooded paths winding up into the forest. The town is also particularly known for its Kutani-yaki, and particularly the work of artist and ceramicist Kitaōji Rosanjin. You can learn more about him and these ceramics at tranquil Iroha Sōan (いろは草庵; 18-5 Yamashiro Onsen; daily 9am–5pm; ¥500).

Yamanaka Onsen

山中温泉

Yamanaka Onsen is a pleasant mix of nature and culture, set in a dramatic gorge but with theatres, sake breweries and museums lining its narrow streets. The town is centred on its public bath, Kikunoyu (菊の湯; 1 Yamanaka Onsen; daily 6.45am–10.30pm; ¥440), whose waters are said to have a higher percentage of hydrogen than any spring in Japan, and which Bashō apparently thought was in Japan's top three onsen. The main handicraft here is Yamanaka Lacquerware, which you can see at the Urushi-za museum and shop (うるし座; 268-2 Yamanaka Onsen; daily 9am–5.30pm; free). Beyond its cultural attractions, though, the town's main appeal lies in its easy access to walking trails, along the river and through the verdant forests – not surprising, as its name means "hot spring in the mountains". A pleasant walk to the south of town leads to Sugawara-jinja (daily 24hr; free), a shrine famous for its stunning cedar tree – over 54 metres tall, and supposedly 2300 years old.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KAGA ONSEN

If you're staying overnight in Kaga Onsen, it's worth checking whether your hotel provides a shuttle bus from Kanazawa (usually from the west exit of Kanazawa Station if so).

By train There are frequent limited express services from Kanazawa to Kaga Onsen Station (25min).

By bus Regular express buses travel from Kanazawa to Yamanaka Onsen (1hr 10min) via Katayamazu Onsen (45min) and Yamashiro Onsen (1hr). There's also a daily bus directly to Eihei-ji, the Odekake-go service, only for visitors staying in Katayamazu, Yamanaka or Yamashiro (1hr 30min; enquire in the tourist office).

Tourist information There's a useful tourist information office in Kaga Onsen Station (daily 8.45am–5.30pm; 076 172 6678, visitkaga.com).

GETTING AROUND

By bus The Canbus runs several loops around the towns of Kaga Onsen, all starting at Kaga City. Passes are ¥1000 for 1 day, ¥1200 for 2 days.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Bengaraya べんがランプライトや 59 Onsen-dōri, Yamashiro Onsen 076 176 4393, bengara-ya.jp. Attached to a gallery showcasing modern takes on local crafts, this café serves up filling Japanese lunch sets (around ¥1500), siphon coffee and a very unusual vegetable parfait (¥950). Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–5.30pm.

KAI Kaga 界加賀 18-47 Yamashiro Onsen 050 3786 1144, kai-ryokan.jp/en/kaga. On the south side of the main square, just steps from Ko-Sōyu (a public bath which guests can use for free), is this well-designed, relaxing ryokan. The hotel baths are decorated with bespoke Kutani tiles, and guests can enjoy sumptuous kaiseki meals, performances of the local Shishimai lion dance, and lessons in crafts such as mizuhiki (weaving with paper cords). Tattoos are allowed if small enough to be covered (the hotel provides stickers); if not, opt for a room with a private bath. Rates include two meals. ¥40,000

Machibito Tabibito-tei 町人旅人亭 Yuge-kaidō, Yamanaka Onsen. This popular food stand appears on Yamanaka Onsen's main street every morning, serving steaming hot bowls of the local hotpot specialities. Best of all, it's only ¥100 – the perfect start to a day. Daily 10–11.30am.

Noto Hantō

能登半島

Jutting like a gnarled finger into the Sea of Japan, the Noto Hantō takes its name from an Ainu word, nopo, meaning “set apart”. The peninsula’s rural way of life, tied to agriculture and fishery, is certainly worlds away from fast-paced, urban Japan – there’s little public transport, so it’s best explored by car or bicycle. The rugged and windswept west coast holds the bulk of the Noto Hantō’s low-key attractions, while the calmer, indented east coast harbours several sleepy fishing villages, with only the lapping of waves and the phut-phut of boat engines to break the silence.

Cosmo Isle Hakui

コスモアイル羽咋 • 25 Menda, Hakui • Mon & Wed–Sun 8.30am–5pm • ¥400 • 076 722 9888, www.hakui.ne.jp/ufo

If you’re travelling up the west coast of the peninsula, bypass the wide, sandy beach of Chiri-hama (千里浜), cluttered with day-trippers and their litter, and instead head inland to the town of HAKUI (羽咋), 40km north of Kanazawa and a hotspot for UFO sightings. In a suitably saucerish hall 1km east of Hakui Station, you’ll find Cosmo Isle Hakui, a fascinating museum devoted to space exploration which houses a great deal of paraphernalia. The most impressive exhibit is the Vostok craft that launched Yuri Gagarin into space in 1961 – it looks like a giant cannonball. Space-related movies are shown in a large-screen theatre, and there’s a quirky gift shop.

WAJIMA LACQUERWARE

Wajima is renowned for high-quality lacquerware (known locally as wajima nuri), sold in many shops around town. Three of the best places to see high-quality products and get involved in workshops are:

Ishikawa Wajima Urushi Art Museum (石川県輪島漆芸美術館; 11 Shijukari Mitomori-machi; daily 9am–5pm; ¥620; 076 822 9788). High-class lacquerware museum, 2km southwest of the centre, with a superb collection.

Nuritaro (塗太郎; Asaichi-dōri, 1-95 Kawai-machi; daily 8am–5pm; 076 822 6040). At this traditional workshop you can watch craftsmen and join lacquerware classes (from ¥1000).

Wajima Kōbō Nagaya (輪島工房長屋; 4-66-1 Kawai-machi; Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun, May–Aug 9am–6pm, Sept–April 9am–5pm; free; 076 823 0111). Complex of traditional-style wooden buildings near the sea, in the heart of town, displaying modern styles of lacquerware. Watch artists at work or, if you make an advance booking, engrave lacquerware yourself.

Keta-taisha

気多大社 • 1-1 Jike-machi, Hakui • Daily: mid-July to Aug 8.30am–6pm; Sept to mid-July 8.30am–4.30pm • Free • 076 722 0602, keta.jp • Catch a bus from Hakui Station bound for Monzen, Togi or Takahama (hourly, 10min); alight at Ichi-noMiya, then 5min walk

Keta-taisha, Noto’s most important shrine, stands in a wooded grove near the sea 4km north of Hakui Station. It’s said to have been founded in the eighth century, but the attractive complex seen today dates from the 1650s. Sadly, its charms are somewhat spoiled by commercialization, catering to young lovers who come to seek the blessing of the spirits.

Myōjō-ji

妙成寺 • 1 Takidani-machi • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 8am–4.30pm • Temple free, pagoda ¥500 • 076 727 1226 • Catch a bus from Hakui Station bound for Togi or Takahama (hourly, 20min); alight at Myōjōji-guchi

A few kilometres further up the coast from Keta-taisha, Myōjō-ji is a seventeenth-century temple with an impressive five-storey pagoda. The surrounding area is pretty striking, too – millennia of erosion by the Sea of Japan have created fascinating rock formations and cliffs along this stretch of the Kongo Coast.

Wajima

輪島

Straddling the mouth of the Kawarada-gawa, halfway up Noto’s west coast, the appealing fishing port of WAJIMA is the peninsula’s main tourist centre. Every morning, in the colourful if touristy Asa Ichi market (daily 8am–noon, closed second & fourth Wed of the month; 076 822 7653), around two hundred vendors set up stalls along the main street selling fish, vegetables and other local products. This is a good place to pick up lacquerware at reasonable prices.

Gō Nagai Wonderland Museum

永井豪記念館 • Asaichi-dōri, 1-123 Kawai-machi • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥510 • 076 823 0715, go-wonderland.jp/en

Anime and manga fans will enjoy the Gō Nagai Wonderland Museum, which celebrates the eponymous, locally born creator of series such as Mazinger Z, Devilman and Cutie Honey. In one section you can draw your own manga character on a computer and get a printout as a souvenir. No displays have English translations, however.

Kiriko-kaikan

キリコ会館 • 22-2 Tsukada-machi • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥620 • 076 822 7100

The Kiriko-kaikan exhibition hall, by the coast on the east side of Wajima, houses the enormous colourful paper lanterns that are paraded during the town’s lively summer and autumn festivals. Videos of the highlights are shown, but the floats themselves are enough of a draw.

Sosogi and around

曽々木

The scenic Okunoto Coastline northeast of Wajima towards the cape, Rokkō-zaki (禄剛崎), is peppered with bizarre rock formations, like Godzilla Rock (ゴジラ岩). The Shiroyone no Senmaida rice paddies, near the village of SOSOGI, make a stunning spectacle, while just south of the cape, a winding road leads down to the “secret onsen” inn of Lamp-no-Yado.

Shiroyone no Senmaida

白米の千枚田 • Shiroyone-machi • Light display mid-Oct to mid-March daily 6–8pm • 076 823 1146, senmaida.wajima-kankou.jp/en • 20min by Machino Line bus (every 2–3 hours) from Wajima

The dramatic coastal landscape at Shiroyone no Senmaida, 10km northeast of Wajima, is shaped by over a thousand rice paddies clinging in small, stepped terraces to the mountainside as it plunges towards the sea. The fields have to be tended by hand as the land is too steep to allow access by machine. Each night in winter, when no rice is grown (it's planted in May and harvested in late September), they host the world’s largest display of solar-panelled LEDs – 21,000 lights line the paddies, making the hillside sparkle with colour.

The Tokikuni houses

Kami Tokikuni-ke上時國家 • 13-4 Machino-machi • Daily: July–Sept 8.30am–5.30pm; Oct–June 8.30am–5pm • ¥520 • 076 832 0171, tokikunike.jp • Shimo Tokikuni-ke下時國家 • 2-1 Machino-machi • April–Nov Sat & Sun 10am–4pm • ¥500 • 076 832 0075, tokikunike.com • Catch a bus from Wajima bound for Ushitsu (8 per day, 35min)

A short way inland from the coast 10km northeast of Shiroyone no Senmaida, two traditional thatch-roofed houses are open to visitors. The wealthy Tokikuni family, supposed descendants of the vanquished Taira clan, were exiled here in the twelfth century. Their original homes have long since vanished; the Kami Tokikuni-ke, towering 18m tall, was built in the nineteenth century, while the smaller Shimo Tokikuni-ke, a short walk away and boasting an attractive garden, dates from the sixteenth century (but was extensively renovated in 2005).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NOTO HANTŌ

By plane Noto Airport ( 076 826 2000), 6km south of Wajima, is served by two flights daily from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport (1hr).

By train Limited Express (every 2–3hr; 1hr; ¥2500) and local trains (1–2 hourly; 1hr 30min; ¥1210) connect Kanazawa with Hakui, and terminate at either Nanao (七尾) or Wakura Onsen (和倉温泉).

By bus Buses cruise up the peninsula’s central highway from Kanazawa to Wajima (11 daily; 2hr; ¥2300).

Tourist information Wajima Bus Station holds an information office (daily 8am–6pm; 076 822 6588), as does Wakura Onsen station (daily 9am–6pm; 076 762 1055).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Infrequent local buses connect most places of interest.

By bike Rental bicycles are available from the information office in Wajima Bus Station (¥800/8hr). They also have e-bikes, helpful if you're going further afield along the craggy coastline (¥400/hr).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Wajima holds the widest choice of places to stay on the peninsula. As eating options are limited in many parts of Noto, it’s best to book accommodation with meals included.

Flatt’s by the Sea 海のそばの元ふらっと 27-26-3 Yanami, Hanami 076 862 1900, flatt.jp/en. Cute seaside minshuku, restaurant and bakery, run by an Australian–Japanese couple, in Hanami (花見) at the northern tip of the Noto Hantō. The innovative restaurant, which prides itself on using local seafood and produce, is open to non-guests for lunch (¥4500) and dinner (¥7000), but closed Wed and Thurs. Rates include two excellent meals. ¥32,000

Fukasan 深三 4-4 Kawai-machi, Wajima 076 822 9933, fukasan.jp. There’s a friendly welcome at this restored minshuku, which enjoys views over the Wajima coast. The four tatami-style rooms are simply furnished and share a large onsen bathtub. Two meals, with plenty of delicious local seafood, cost just ¥2200 per person extra. ¥13,500

Kagaya 加賀屋 80 Yobu, Wakura-machi, Wakura Onsen 076 762 4111, intl.kagaya.jp. An army of kimono-clad staff greets guests outside this large hotel, regularly voted Japan’s number one onsen resort, which combines Japanese elegance with Vegas-esque opulence. A host of restaurants, bars, karaoke, cabaret shows and souvenir shops are designed to keep you – and your wallet – occupied. Different onsen are ranged over three floors, with spectacular views over the bay – all in all, it’s an experience to remember. Rates include two meals. ¥52,200

Kodawari こだわり 4-66-1 Kawai-machi, Wajima 076 823 1078, kodawari2003.ciao.jp. Caught by the owner himself, the fish in this little lunch place, close to the market, is superbly fresh. Seafood bowls cost from ¥1100. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–3pm.

Lamp-no-Yado ランプの宿 10-11 Jike, Misaki-machi, Suzu 076 886 8000, lampnoyado.co.jp. One of the peninsula’s most famous ryokan, this centuries-old wooden complex is set in a spectacular cliffside location in Suzu (珠洲). Eight of the thirteen rooms have their own rotemburo. Two meals included. ¥44,000

Minshuku Wajima 民宿輪島 2-5-1 Futatsuya-machi, Wajima 076 822 4243. Small minshuku, beside the river a 10min walk west of Wajima Bus Station, with good-sized and well-priced tatami rooms. Tasty, rustic meals feature home-grown rice and vegetables. Breakfast ¥1000 extra. ¥9000

Noto Isaribi Youth Hostel 能登漁火ユースホステル 51-6 Ogi-yo, Ogi 076 874 0150, bit.ly/notohostel. Facing Tsukumo-wan in the sleepy village of Ogi (小木), this hostel has good-quality tatami dorms and is run by a friendly man who rustles up local seafood feasts. Breakfast and dinner cost ¥600 and ¥1200 respectively. Buses from Kanazawa will drop you at Ogi-kō, an 8min walk away. Dorms ¥3900

Shoya No Yakata 庄屋の館 10-1 Maura-machi, Sosogi 076 832 0372. The best spot to enjoy local seafood in Sosogi, with a hearty seafood sashimi bowl and sides costing ¥1650. Daily 11am–2.30pm & 6.30–8pm.

Nagoya

名古屋

Completely rebuilt in the wake of devastating wartime air raids, NAGOYA is a modern metropolis of high-rise buildings, wide boulevards, multilane highways and flyovers, where business takes precedence over tourism. The local skill of monozukuri (making things) is epitomized by industrial powerhouse Toyota, which has its headquarters here.

Japan’s fourth-largest city, the capital of Aichi-ken is less overwhelming than Tokyo or Osaka. It provides an easily accessible introduction to urban Japan and all its contemporary delights, with its food scene as a particular highlight. The Tokugawa family constructed Nagoya’s original castle, now partially restored, and their possessions are now proudly displayed in the grand Tokugawa Art Museum. In the city centre, the cutting-edge Nagoya City Science Museum boasts the largest planetarium in the world and a host of immersive displays to entertain kids of all ages, while the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology makes an appropriate tribute to Nagoya’s industrial heritage. Off to the south, right by the sea, the remarkable SCMaglev and Railway Park celebrates Japan’s cutting-edge railway technology.

Nagoya’s sights are quite spread out, but walking from the main hub of train stations to Sakae and around, even down to Ozu, is quite feasible. Excellent transport links, including an international airport, also make Nagoya an ideal base for tours of the region. Day-trip possibilities include the castle towns of Inuyama and Gifu. The Shima Hantō lies within easy reach, too.

Nagoya-jō

名古屋城 • 1-1 Honmaru • Daily 9am–4.30pm; free English tour daily 1pm • ¥500, or ¥640 including Tokugawa-en • 052 231 1700, www.nagoyajo.city.nagoya.jp • Shiyakusho subway, Meijō line

Nagoya’s medieval castle, Nagoya-jō, stands on the northern edge of downtown, 2.5km from the stations and still partially surrounded by broad, water-filled moats. Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo shogunate, ordered the construction of this fortress in 1610, as the last of three mighty castles designed to demonstrate his new-found power.

The original structure was largely destroyed during World War II – only three turrets, three gates and some sequestered screen paintings survived – but a handsome concrete replica was completed in 1959. Steep stairs climb inside the central donjon, which holds interesting museum-like displays, including mock-ups of medieval streets and some fascinating archive photos, and is topped by huge gold-plated shachi, the mythical dolphins that are a symbol of Nagoya. The main attraction for visitors these days, though, is the gleaming Honmaru Goten (本丸御殿), the palace alongside, which has been meticulously reconstructed using traditional materials and techniques, and now displays sumptuous Edo-era painted screens including famous depictions of bamboo groves, leopards and tigers.

Tokugawa Art Museum and Tokugawa-en

Museum 徳川美術館, Tokugawa Bijutsukan • 1017 Tokugawa-chō, Higashi-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥1400, or ¥1550 with Tokugawa-en • 052 935 6262, tokugawa-art-museum.jp/en • Tokugawa-en 徳川園 • 1001 Tokugawa-chō, Higashi-ku • Daily 9.30am–5.30pm • ¥300, ¥640 with Nagoya-jō, or ¥1550 with Tokugawa Art Museum • 052 935 8988, tokugawaen.aichi.jp • 10min walk from Morishita subway, Meitetsu-Seto line; 15min walk from Ōzone Station, JR Chūō line

In a hard-to-reach location northeast of downtown, the Tokugawa Art Museum is best seen in conjunction with Tokugawa-en, the small but very lovely seventeenth-century garden alongside. Focusing on heirlooms from the Owari branch of the Tokugawa family who once ruled Nagoya, the museum offers a vivid sense of their rich and cultured life. Displays include items inherited by the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, reconstructions of the formal chambers of the daimyō’s residence, and a nō stage around which magnificent traditional costumes are arranged. The single most treasured relic, a twelfth-century painted scroll that’s the earliest surviving version of The Tale of Genji, is so fragile that it’s only displayed for a month each year, from November 10.

Nagoya City Science Museum

名古屋市科学館, Nagoya-shi Ragaku-kan • 2-17-1 Sakae, Naka-ku • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm, closed third Fri of month • ¥400, or ¥800 including planetarium; free audioguides on a smartphone app • 052 201 4486, www.ncsm.city.nagoya.jp/en • 10min walk from Fushimi or Ōsu Kannon subways, Tsurumai line

An architectural tour de force at the southern end of Sakae, consisting of two towers squeezing a colossal spherical planetarium between them – at 35m in diameter, reputedly the largest in the world – Nagoya City Science Museum is primarily targeted at kids, but makes a fun and enlightening experience for all ages. Hands-on exhibits inside range over four floors, covering everything from dinosaurs to hydraulics to natural phenomena, with highlights including a tornado machine and a deep-freeze lab. If you don’t understand Japanese, it’s not worth paying for the fifty-minute planetarium shows. The demonstration of the museum's huge Tesla coils is also without English assistance, but it's still very good fun, and covered in the main entry fee.

Midland Square

ミッドランドスクエア • 4-7-1 Meieki, Nakamura-ku • Main building Daily 11am–8pm (restaurants 11am–11pm) • Free • Sky Promenade Daily: summer 11am–11pm; winter 1–9pm (weather dependant) • ¥750 • 052 527 8877, midland-square.com/english

Nagoya’s trio of train stations forms the centre of a futuristic cityscape, with a vast network of tunnels, filled with shops and restaurants, radiating away underground, and a mini-Manhattan of tower blocks on all sides, including department stores topped by further hotels and restaurants.

Immediately across the street, the skyscraper known as Midland Square is the headquarters of the Toyota corporation. It too holds assorted shops and restaurants, plus a multiplex cinema. A partially open walkway, the Sky Promenade (スカイ・プロメナード), descends from the building’s 46th to 44th floors to give panoramic views of the city. Every evening, at half-hourly intervals between 7pm and 9.30pm, coloured mist is sprayed into the hallways to enhance the effect.

Noritake Garden

ノリタケの森, Noritake no Mori • 3-1-36 Noritake Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • Free; craft centre ¥500 (plate painting from ¥1800), joint entry with Toyota Commemorative Museum ¥800 • 052 561 7114, www.noritake.co.jp/mori • 10min walk north of Nagoya Station

The grounds around a former china factory, run until 1975 by the still-extant Noritake company, have been transformed into a very pleasant park, Noritake Garden. Attractions on this spacious green site, a ten-minute walk north of the station, include a gallery of modern pottery and showrooms where you can buy Noritake products, plus a good café and a restaurant. If you pay to enter the garden’s craft centre you can watch pottery being created, try your hand at painting a plate, and admire historic tableware in the museum section upstairs.

Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology

トヨタ産業技術記念館, Toyota Sangyo Gijutsu Kinenkan • 1-35 Noritake Shinmachi • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • ¥500, or ¥800 with Noritake Garden; audioguide ¥200, or free via smartphone app; free English tours 2pm (textile machinery area), 3.15pm (automobile area) • 052 551 6115, www.tcmit.org • 10min walk northwest of Noritake Garden, near Sakō rail station on the Meitetsu Nagoya line

Housed in one of the car manufacturer’s old red-brick factories, the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology traces the history of the corporation from its earliest days as a textile producer. At first, the rows of early twentieth-century looms make an incredible racket; in contrast, a computer-controlled air-jet loom at the end of that section purrs like a kitten. You then move on to the automobile area, encountering giant car-making robots, and to Technoland, where children can play with various toys intended to illustrate industrial processes.

THE TOYOTA WAY

No business is more closely associated with Nagoya than Toyota, whose 47-floor headquarters are based in the Midland Square Tower opposite Nagoya Station. The automobile company was started in 1937 by Kiichiro Toyoda as a spin-off from Toyoda Automatic Loom Works, founded by his father Sakichi, who invented an improved wooden handloom in 1890 and subsequently moved on to power looms. As well as taking in the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology, you may like to visit one of Toyota’s factories to see its famous production processes in action. The one-hour tours around the Kaikan factory are free, but you have to make a reservation online at bit.ly/toyotanagoya, three months in advance.

Nagoya TV Tower

名古屋テレビ塔, Nagoya Terebi-tō • 3-6-15 Nishiki, Naka-ku • Viewing deck daily 10am–10pm • ¥1000 • 052 325 2951, nagoya-tv-tower.co.jp • Sakae subway, Higashiyama line

Hisaya Ōdōri-kōen, a swathe of parkland that runs north to south through Sakae (栄), Nagoya’s central shopping and entertainment playground, is punctuated in the middle by the 180m Nagoya TV Tower. At the time of writing it was closed, with plans to reopen in July 2020. This handsome silver-painted structure, Japan’s first TV signal transmission tower, built in 1954, has been designated a National Tangible Cultural Property. In summer, the ground-floor café and beer garden are good for a drink or snack in the sun.

The UFO-shaped complex opposite is Oasis 21 ( sakaepark.co.jp). Its oval-shaped roof, covered with a pool of water, provides a great view of the surrounding cityscape (daily 10am–9pm); downstairs, as well as a cluster of restaurants, you’ll find one of Nagoya’s principal bus stations.

Aichi Prefectural Museum of Art

愛知県美術館, Aichi-ken Bijutsukan • 1-13-2 Higashisakura, Higashi-ku • Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–8pm • ¥500 (excluding special exhibitions) • 052 971 5511, www-art.aac.pref.aichi.jp • Sakae subway, Higashiyama line

The permanent collection at the excellent Aichi Prefectural Museum of Art, housed in the Aichi Arts Centre along with a major concert hall and theatre, provides a brisk romp through the superstars of twentieth-century art. Artists represented include Picasso, Klimt, Matisse and Modigliani, as well as Japanese painters such as Kishida Ryūsei and Takahashi Yuichi. The large galleries also host good temporary exhibitions, while the museum has since 2010 been the focus of the Aichi Triennale international arts festival ( aichitriennale.jp).

Ōsu

大須

Ten minutes’ walk southwest of the science museum, beside the Ōsu Kannon stop on the Tsurumai subway line, Ōsu Kannon (大須観音) is a vermilion-painted temple bustling with a steady stream of petitioners. A lively antiques and flea market is held in the temple’s precincts on the 18th and 28th of each month; at other times it’s still worth heading here to explore the bargain-hunters’ district of Ōsu, where old-style arcades are lined with shops selling discount electronic goods, cheap clothes and secondhand kimono. The area is popular with Nagoya’s youth – though many now prefer Kakuozan, in the eastern Chikusa district – and clothing and gift shops hereabouts include the mega-retailer Komehyo ( www.komehyo.co.jp), selling everything from electronics to used clothing priced by weight. Ōsu is also a good hunting ground for small, hip bars and restaurants.

WORLD COSPLAY SUMMIT

Cosplay, a portmanteau of "costume play", refers to fans dressing up as their favourite characters, largely but not exclusively from anime, manga or video games. The word was coined by Japanese journalist Takahashi Nobuyuki in 1984, to describe US fans dressing up for a masquerade (a combination of a skit show and fashion parade for people in cosplay outfits) at a science fiction convention in Los Angeles. These days, every anime convention, anywhere in the world, incorporates a substantial cosplay element. At the ultimate level, the annual World Cosplay Summit ( worldcosplaysummit.jp) is staged in Nagoya in late July and early August, with participants from around twenty countries. The main events are a parade in the Ōsu district and the championship show itself, held in the public areas of Oasis 21.

Atsuta-jingū

熱田神宮 • 1-1-1 Atsuta-jingū • Daily 24hr; museum daily 9am–4.30pm, closed last Wed & Thurs of the month • Free; museum ¥500 • 052 671 4151, atsutajingu.or.jp/en •Jingūmae subway, Meitetsu Tokoname line

The important Shintō shrine of Atsuta-jingū – said to be almost two thousand years old, but repeatedly remodelled since the nineteenth century – is 5km south of central Nagoya, amid extensive wooded grounds that give the feel of visiting a city park. The prized possession in the principal shrine, dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, is the kusanagi-no-tsurugi, or “grass-cutting sword” – one of the three sacred treasures that symbolize the Imperial throne, along with jewels in Tokyo’s Imperial Palace and the mirror at Ise-jingū.

The precinct incorporates dozens of other structures, and at weekends especially tends to be thronged with proud parents and grandparents bringing month-old children for the traditional miyamairi blessing. Look out for a giant camphor tree, said to have been planted by the Buddhist saint Kōbō Daishi 1300 years ago. A small museum, also known as the Treasure Hall, displays a changing selection of offerings donated to the shrine over the centuries, including robes, quivers of arrows, and many swords, among them a ferocious 2m-long blade in the entrance hall. As throughout Atsuta-jingū, nothing is translated into English.

SCMaglev and Railway Park

リニア鉄道館, Rinia Tetsudō-kan • 3-2-2 Kinjofutō, Minato-ku • 10am–5.30pm: Golden Week & mid-July to Aug daily; other times Mon & Wed–Sun • ¥1000, plus ¥500 for Shinkansen Train driving simulator, ¥100 for Conventional Train driving simulator; free audioguides on a smartphone app • 052 389 6100, museum.jr-central.co.jp/en • Kinjofutō Station, Aonomi line

An enormous two-part hangar at the southernmost tip of Nagoya’s docklands, 15km south of the city centre and overshadowed by an even more colossal bridge carrying the Isewangan Expressway, has been converted to hold the extraordinary SCMaglev and Railway Park. Pretty much irresistible for anyone exploring Japan by train – and absolute heaven, of course, for railway buffs – it traces the past, present and future of the Japanese rail network.

As well as climbing inside actual trains from all eras, you can admire a vast model railway that extends from Tokyo to Osaka, and learn all about the superconducting SCMaglev trains which it’s currently hoped will connect those two cities by 2047, at speeds of up to 600kph. The biggest thrill, though, comes with the chance to enjoy a personal fifteen-minute simulator session, driving either a Shinkansen or conventional train. Admission tickets carry lottery tickets for both; drop them in the relevant boxes as soon as you enter, and pray that your number comes up.

Alamy

TATEYAMA TO KUROBE ALPINE ROUTE

Arimatsu

有松 • Direct trains from Meitetsu Nagoya Station (20min; ¥350)

Now a suburb 11km southeast of central Nagoya, Arimatsu dates back to 1608 and was once a town on the Tokaidō highway. It’s famous for its ongoing tradition of shibori, an intricate and time-consuming method of tie-dyeing cotton. Kimono made this way take up to six months to complete – hence the high prices they command. You can learn about tie-dyeing at the Arimatsu-Narumi Shibori Kaikan (有松鳴海絞会館; Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm; ¥300; 052 621 0111, shibori-kaikan.com/en), and even give it a go (from ¥1080), while shops selling examples line the picturesque street immediately south of Meitetsu Arimatsu Station, along with cafés and bakeries. Were it not for the utility poles and power lines, this could be a scene from a woodblock print: the old wooden houses with intricate tiled roofs provide the perfect backdrop to the parades of ornate floats in the spring and autumn festivals (third Sun in March & first Sun in Oct).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NAGOYA

BY PLANE

Centrair All international and some domestic flights arrive at Central Japan International Airport ( www.centrair.jp). Also known as Chūbu Centrair, or simply Centrair, the airport stands on a man-made island 45km south of Nagoya, and is a tourist attraction in its own right – locals visit just to sample the restaurants in Flight of Dreams, by terminal 2, and bathe in its giant, runway-view onsen. The high-speed Meitetsu Airport line connects Centrair with Nagoya Station (30min; ¥890–1250), stopping at Kanayama (25min; ¥1170).

Domestic destinations Akita (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Asahikawa (daily; 1hr 40min); Fukuoka (15 daily; 1hr 15min); Hakodate (daily; 1hr 25min); Ishigaki (daily; 2hr 45min); Kagoshima (10 daily; 1hr 20min); Kumamoto (3 daily; 1hr 15min); Memanbetsu (daily; 2hr); Miyako (daily; 2hr 15min); Miyazaki (4 daily; 1hr 15imin); Nagasaki (3 daily; 1hr 20min); Naha (15 daily; 2hr 10min); Niigata (3 daily; 55min); Oita (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Sapporo (21 daily; 1hr 35min); Sendai (11 daily; 1hr 5min); Tokyo Haneda (3 daily; 1hr); Tokyo Narita (5 daily; 1hr 10min).

Nagoya Komaki Airport 12km north of the city ( nagoya-airport.jp), this airport serves domestic destinations only, and is connected by bus with Midland Square, opposite Nagoya Station (20min; ¥700).

Destinations Aomori (4 daily; 1hr 20min); Fukuoka (5 daily; 1hr 20min); Iwate-Hanamaki (4 daily; 1hr 20min); Izumo-Enmusube (2 daily; 1hr); Kōchi (3 daily; 1hr); Kumamoto (3 daily; 1hr 20min); Niigata (daily; 1hr); Yamagata (2 daily; 1hr 5min).

BY TRAIN

Nagoya’s main JR station, used by Shinkansen and regular JR services, is the centrepiece of a giant complex on the west side of the city that also includes two other train stations, used by local lines, a subway station, and countless shops, restaurants and high-rise department stores. The Meitetsu line terminus, immediately south beneath the Meitetsu department store, serves Inuyama and Gifu, while the Kintetsu line terminus next door is used by services to Nara and the Shima Hantō region.

Destinations Fukui (8 daily; 2hr 10min); Fukuoka (Hakata Station; 1–2 hourly; 3hr 20min); Gifu (8 daily; 20min); Hiroshima (every 30min; 2hr 20min); Inuyama (very frequent; 30min); Ise (hourly; 1hr 20min); Kagaonsen (8 daily; 2hr 30min); Kanazawa (8 daily; 3hr); Kyoto (every 10min; 35min); Matsumoto (hourly; 2hr); Nagano (hourly; 3hr); Okayama (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Osaka (every 10min; 50min); Takayama (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Toba (8 daily; 1hr 50min); Tokyo (every 10min; 1hr 50min).

BY BUS

Long-distance buses pull in at the terminal at the north end of the JR station as well as at the Oasis 21 terminal in Sakae.

Destinations Gujō Hachiman (2 daily; 1hr 20min); Kanazawa (8 daily; 4hr); Kyoto (every 30min; 2hr 30min); Magome (daily; 1hr 50min); Ogimachi (daily; 4hr); Osaka (14 daily; 3hr); Takayama (12 daily; 2hr 30min); Tokyo (hourly; 5–6hr).

BY FERRY

Ferries arrive at and depart from Nagoya-kō port, 10km south of the train stations ( taiheiyo-ferry.co.jp), and served by the Meitetsu bus (35min; ¥500).

Destinations Sendai (3–4 weekly; 21hr); Tomakomai (3–4 weekly; 38hr 45min).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Nagoya’s very useful main tourist office is on the central concourse of the JR station (daily 8.30am–7pm; 052 541 4301, nagoya-info.jp/en); there are other offices at Oasis 21 (daily 10am–8pm; 052 963 5252) and Kanayama Station (daily 9am–7pm; 052 323 0161).

International exchange foundations The Nagoya International Centre, a 7min walk east of the JR station (名古屋国際センター; 1-47-1 Nagono, Nakamura-ku; Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; 052 581 0100, nic-nagoya.or.jp/en), offers a library and the opportunity to meet English-speaking locals.

GETTING AROUND

By subway Nagoya’s excellent subway is the easiest way to get around town. The four lines you’re most likely to use are Higashiyama (yellow on the subway map) and Sakura-dōri (red), both of which connect with the main train stations, plus Meijō (purple) and Tsurumai (blue).

By bus The extensive local bus system includes the Me-guru route (メーグル; all-day ticket ¥500), which loops around Nagoya’s central sights.

Tickets Single journeys by subway or bus start at ¥210. All-day tickets, valid on both the subway and buses, cost ¥600 when purchased at the main tourist information centres or Centrair.

By car You can rent a car from Eki Rent-a-Car 052 581 0882 or Nissan Rent-a-Car 052 451 2300.

ACCOMMODATION MAP AND THIS MAP

Nagoya has plenty of accommodation, with several options near the train stations. Thanks to the excellent public transport system, though, you can stay pretty much anywhere and get around quickly; choose Sakae or Kanayama if you’re after lively nightlife. Be sure to book well in advance for weekends and public holidays.

ANA Crowne Plaza Grand Court クラウンプラザホテル 1-1-1 Kanayama-chō, Naka-ku 052 683 4111, anacrowneplaza-nagoya.jp. This fine high-rise hotel, right by the subway station in Kanayama, makes a handy base for southern Nagoya. There’s a good array of restaurants, and even a choice of four different pillows for your bed. Very good buffet breakfast ¥2900. ¥17,300

The b Nagoya ビー 名古屋 4-15-23 Sakae, Naka-ku 052 241 1500, ishinhotels.com/theb/nagoya. This stylish business hotel is just a 3min walk from Sakae subway. Housed in a modern block in the heart of the dynamic Sakae neighbourhood, it offers comfortable contemporary rooms and free coffee in the lobby. Breakfast around ¥1200. ¥9500

Glocal Nagoya Hostel グローカル名古屋ホステル 1-21-3 Noritake, Nakamura-ku 052 446 6694, facebook.com/hostelnagoya. Budget hostel, just over 5min walk west of the main station, with a welcoming ground-floor café and restaurant plus spacious dorms – one entire floor is women-only – and four-person private rooms. All the showers are on the same floor, so they can be a trek from your room. Dorms ¥3200, private rooms ¥12,800

Hostel Ann 名古屋ゲストハウス Hostel Ann 2-4-2 Kanayama-chō, Naka-ku 052 253 7710, hostelann.com. Relaxed hostel in a little old Japanese house a 10min walk northeast of Kanayama Station, with dorms and larger private rooms. They offer a kitchen, football table in the lounge, and bike rental for ¥500 per day. Cash only. Dorms ¥2900, doubles ¥7000

Lamplight Books Hotel ランプライトブックスホテル 1-13-18 Nishiki, Naka-ku 052 231 7011, lamplightbookshotel.com/en/nagoya. This entire hotel has been designed around the idea of reading, from the extensive travel library to the desks perfect for leaning books on, and the carefully calibrated level of light in the rooms. The attached 24-hour bookshop-café is excellent, and popular with locals as well as hotel guests. Around ¥700 for a very good breakfast. ¥10,200

Meitetsu Grand 名鉄グランドホテル 1-2-4 Meieki, Nakamura-ku 052 582 2211, meitetsu-gh.co.jp. Long-established business hotel offering small but perfectly adequate rooms in a great location in Nagoya’s huge station complex. Turn right from the station’s main east entrance, and it’s on the upper floors of the Meitetsu shopping mall, reached by its own dedicated elevators. Breakfast ¥1800. ¥15,700

Nagoya Marriott Associa Hotel 名古屋マリオットアソシアホテル 1-1-4 Meieki, Nakamura-ku 052 584 1111, associa.com/nma. For convenience and luxury you can’t beat staying here, high above the mammoth station and twin towers complex, in large comfortable rooms that enjoy a chintzy old European look and wonderful views. There’s an excellent range of restaurants and a fitness club with a 20m pool. Breakfast included in rates. ¥31,000

Nagoya Sakae Tokyu REI 名古屋栄東急REI 3-1-8 Sakae, Naka-ku 052 251 0109, www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/nagoyasakae-r. Right in the middle of the action in Sakae district, this comfortable business hotel has decent-sized rooms, a good buffet breakfast (¥1200) and an attached Starbucks, just in case you need extra-fast wi-fi or a grande matcha latte. ¥13,300

Ryokan Meiryū 旅館名龍 2-4-21 Kamimaezu, Naka-ku 052 331 8686, www.japan-net.ne.jp/~meiryu. Friendly, English-speaking owners run this simple ryokan, a couple of minutes’ walk east of exit three at Kamimaezu subway. The tatami rooms have a/c and TV, bathrooms are communal and a delicious Japanese breakfast (¥650) and dinner (¥2300; Mon–Sat; not on first night of stay) are available. ¥9000

EATING MAP AND THIS MAP

Nagoya’s many specialities include the flat, floury noodles kishimen, the succulent chicken dishes made from Nagoya kochin birds (try local chain Yamachan for addictively spicy wings; www.yamachan.co.jp), and tenmusu, a seaweed-wrapped onigiri filled with tempura shrimp. There are plenty of restaurants in and around the station, but you’ll get more of a night out if you head for bustling Sakae, which is packed with lively options, or, for a calmer experience, Ōsu. Nagoya is known for its Morning Service (or just "Morning"), in which local cafés will throw in a small breakfast for free with your coffee, usually until 11am; local chain Komeda's Coffee ( www.komeda.co.jp) is a great place to try it.

Atsuta Hōraiken あつた蓬萊軒 503 Gōdo-chō, Atsuta-ku 052 671 8686, houraiken.com. This venerable mansion, a short walk from the southern entrance of Atsuta-jingū, has been serving hitsumabushi, Nagoya’s famous unagi (eel) dish, in its traditional tatami rooms ever since 1873. In summer, you’ll probably have to queue before you tuck in; hitsumabushi set meals start at ¥3900, but you can also eat cheaper eel options a la carte. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 4.30–8.30pm; closed second & fourth Thurs of month.

Din Tai Fung ディン タイ フォン 12F JR Central Towers, Nagoya Station 052 533 6030, d.rt-c.co.jp/nagoya. Hugely popular outlet of a prestigious Taiwanese dim sum chain, directly above the JR station. Most diners simply pick and choose from the long menu of cha siu bao, xiaolongbao and prawn or crab dumplings, but set meals start under ¥2000. Daily 11am–11pm.

Eric-Life エリック-ライフ 2-11-8 Ōsu, Naka-ku 052 222 1555. There’s a mid-century retro look to this hipsters’ café behind Ōsu Kannon, where you can lounge on green velvet chairs enjoying yōshoku (Western-style) dishes such as omu-raisu (rice omelette) or ham bruschetta, or just nurse a cappuccino. Drinks from ¥400, main dishes from ¥850. Mon, Tues, Thurs–Sun 11.30am–midnight.

Gaburi Chicken Sakae がブリチキン 栄店 3-12-11 Sakae 052 262 8739, gabuchiki.com. Very lively little bar-restaurant on busy Mitsukura-dōri, in the heart of Sakae’s nightlife zone, doling out platefuls of succulent fried chicken for under ¥1000, plus sweet-potato fries for ¥500 and cheap beers and whisky highballs. Mon–Sat 4pm–1am, Sun 4pm–midnight.

Kaguraya Sasuke 神楽家左助 1-10-6 Higashi Sakura, Higashi-ku 052 971 6203, kaguraya-nagoya.com. It feels incredible that this charming old building, overlooking lovely gardens, survives in the heart of modern Nagoya – even better is that they serve delicious, beautifully presented traditional food. Enjoy a set lunch from ¥2800 or dinner from ¥6600. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–10pm (Sat & Sun 9.30pm).

Yabaton Honten 矢場とん 本店 9F Meitetsu Dept Store, Nagoya Station 052 252 8810, english.yabaton.com. High above the station, this quick-fire restaurant provides a convenient opportunity to sample miso katsu, breaded pork cutlets smothered in a sizzling miso sauce, which cost ¥1400 on their own, or ¥1800 as the centrepiece of a set meal. Check the website for this ever-expanding local chain’s other outlets, or simply look out for their big fat pig signs. Daily 11am–9pm.

Yamamoto-ya Honten 山本屋本店 B1 Horiuchi Building, 3-25-9 Meieki 052 565 0278. The chief outlet of this noodle café chain is on Sakura-dōri, a few minutes’ walk from the JR station. The specialities are miso nikomi (thick udon noodles in a bean paste), locally reared Nagoya kochin (chicken) and Berkshire pork. Reckon on around ¥2000 per head. Daily 11am–10pm.

DRINKING MAP

Drinking options are plentiful around Nagoya Station, south in Kanayama or in the artsy eastern district of Kakuozan.

Elephant’s Nest エレファントネスト 1-4-3 Sakae, Naka-ku 052 232 4360, e-nest.jp. For gaijin company, this British pub next to the Hilton is a good bet. There’s free darts, English football on the telly, draught Guinness and staple British pub-grub dishes. During happy hour, 5.30–8pm, ¥100 is knocked off beers on weekdays, and any whisky costs ¥500 on Sun. Mon–Thurs 6pm–1am, Fri & Sat 6pm–2.30am, Sun 4pm–midnight.

Keg Nagoya ケグナゴヤ 1-10-13 Higashi Sakura, Higashi-ku 052 971 8211, kegnagoya.owst.jp/en. Appealing real-ale bar that gives the chance to sample a great range of Japanese craft beers on tap. The food menu extends from curry rice to pizza. Mon–Fri 11.30am–2pm & 5–11pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–10pm.

Red Rock レッドロック 2F Aster Plaza Building, 4-14-6 Sakae, Naka-ku 052 262 7893, theredrock.jp. Spacious, centrally located bar with an Aussie theme, serving beers such as Coopers, VB and Cascade, as well as traditional pub grub like meat pies and kangaroo burgers (well, they’re traditional in Australia). Mon–Thurs 5.30pm–1am, Fri & Sat 5.30pm–3am, Sun 5.30pm–1am.

Smash Head スマッシュヘッド 2 -21-90 Ōsu 052 201 2790. With “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance” emblazoned above the entrance, this bar and motorbike repair shop is one chilled spot, with exposed brick walls, retro furniture, and an extensive library of motorcycling, art and counterculture books. There’s Guinness and Hoegaarden on tap and a good selection of spirits and bottled Belgian beers to choose from. Locals swear by the tasty handmade burgers, and daily lunch specials cost around ¥1000. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–10pm.

NIGHTLIFE MAP AND THIS MAP

Sakae is the place to go for busy upbeat bars, clubs and karaoke boxes, while Ōsu offers quieter, hipper evenings out. Traditional performing arts are well supported, with a splendid nō theatre opposite the castle and the grand kabuki theatre, Misono-za, in the Fushimi area. Nagoya also has a thriving live music scene, and plenty of cinemas, including a modern multiplex in Midland Square. And you might like to try a game of pachinko, as Nagoya was where the noisy, pinball-esque pastime first took off in the 1950s.

Club Mago マーゴ 2-1-9 Shin-Sakae, Naka-ku 052 243 1818, club-mago.co.jp. Big-name DJs regularly headline at this high-energy mega-club, which has a welcoming vibe and usually hosts a recovery party every Sun from 5am. The same building contains the live venues Diamond Hall and Apollo Base. Hours vary; club nights generally 10pm–late.

Huck Finn ハックフィン 5-19-7 Imaike 052 733 8347, huckfinn.co.jp. Long-running punky club in the basement of the Ishii building, hosting regular live music nights of local and international bands. The entrance charge, typically ¥1500–2500, is cheaper if you buy in advance; drinks start around ¥500. Hours vary; usually Thurs–Sun 6pm–late.

iD Café iDカフェ 3-1-15 Sakae, Naka-ku 052 251 0382, idcafe.info. Hip-hop, reggae and R&B can all be heard at this long-running bastion of the Nagoya club scene. The entrance fee (usually around ¥2000) includes four drinks. Daily 7pm–1am.

Metro メトロ Lover:z club, 1-2-8 Shinei, Naka-ku 090 4194 9722, facebook.com/groups/themetroclub. The fabulous Madame Matty hosts this long-running foreigner-friendly gay and lesbian club event, a guaranteed fun time for all, held monthly at Lover:z club. Entry is ¥2500 including two drinks. Second Sat of the month 10pm–5am.

Plastic Factory プラスチックファクトリー 32-13 Kanda-chō, Chikusa-ku 090 9894 9242, plasticfactory.jp. Hosting an eclectic range of events in – guess what? – an old plastic factory, three blocks north of Imaike Station. Expect anything from progressive techno to live rock. Fri–Sun normally 8pm–2am.

DIRECTORY

Consulates Australia, 13F Amnat Building, 1-3-3 Sakae, Naka-ku 052 211 0630; Canada, 6F Nakatō Marunouchi Building, 3-17-6 Marunouchi, Naka-ku 052 972 0450; UK, 15F Nishiki Park Building, 2-4-3 Nishiki, Naka-ku 052 223 5031; USA, 6F International Centre Building, 1-47-1 Nagono, Nakamura-ku 052 581 4501.

Emergencies The Prefectural Police Office is at 2-1-1 Sannomaru ( 052 951 1611). In an absolute emergency, contact the International Centre ( 052 581 0100). For other emergency numbers,.

Hospital The main hospital is the Nagoya Medical Centre, 4-1-1 Sannomaru, Naku-ku ( 052 951 1111).

Post office There are post offices in the main station, and a minute’s walk north at 1-1-1 Meieki (daily 9am–7pm).

Inuyama

犬山

The appealing castle town of INUYAMA lies beside the Kiso-gawa 25km north of Nagoya. Between May and October, the river is the stage for ukai, the centuries-old practice of fishing with cormorants, to which the floodlit exterior of the privately owned castle, Inuyama-jō, provides a dramatic backdrop. The other major highlight in this picturesque area is the Meiji Mura architectural museum, which showcases buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

Inuyama-jō

犬山城 • 65-2 Kitakoken • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥550, ¥600 with Shirotomachi and Karakuri museums • 056 861 1711, inuyama-castle.jp

The riverside hill at the north end of Inuyama is crested by the only privately owned castle in Japan, Inuyama-jō. This toy-like fortress was built in 1537, making it the oldest in Japan (although parts have been extensively renovated), and it has belonged to the Naruse family since 1618. Inside, the donjon is ordinary, but there’s a pretty view of the river and countryside from the top, where you can appreciate the castle’s defensive strength.

FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT IN JAPAN

Frank Lloyd Wright owes his fame in Japan largely to the fact that his grand Imperial Hotel in Tokyo survived the Great Kantō Earthquake, which hit the day after it opened in 1923. The US-born architect first visited Japan in 1905, and was so smitten that he pursued and eventually won the commission to build the hotel.

Wright lived in Tokyo between 1917 and 1923, working on the Imperial and thirteen other projects. Of the seven that were actually built, just five survive, in whole or in part: the front lobby of the Imperial Hotel, which now stands in Meiji Mura; the school Jiyū Gakuen Myonichikan ( jiyu.jp) and a portion of the Aisaku Hayashi House, both in Tokyo; JR Nikkō Station; and Tazaemon Yamamura House in Ashiya, near Kōbe. For more information see wrightinjapan.org.

Shirotomachi Museum

城とまちミュージアム • 8 Kitakoken • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥100 with Karakuri Museum, ¥600 also with castle • 056 862 4802, bit.ly/shirotomachi

The centrepiece of the attractive historic neighbourhood lining Inuyama’s main street, immediately south of the castle and fifteen minutes’ walk northwest of Inuyama Station, is the modern Shirotomachi Museum. Historical displays here include some fascinating maps and plans, and an impressive model of the town in its heyday. Across the street, the smaller Karakuri Museum celebrates the mechanical wooden puppets that adorn the towering, ornate floats (yatai) paraded around Inuyama during its major festival, on the first weekend of April. Operated from below rather than above, they’re variously beautiful and grotesque, and can be seen in action on Fridays and Saturdays (10am–4pm).

Meiji Mura

明治村 • 1 Uchiyama • Daily: March–July, Sept & Oct 9.30am–5pm; Aug 10am–5pm; Nov 9.30am–4pm; Dec–Feb 10am–4pm; check website for occasional closures • ¥1700, in-park trains & buses extra; English audioguide ¥1000 (refundable deposit) • 056 867 0314, meijimura.com • Regular buses from Inuyama Station (20min)

Ranging from churches and banks to a kabuki theatre, a lighthouse and a telephone exchange, the superb Meiji Mura open-air architectural museum consists of 67 structures spreading through a huge park 7km east of Inuyama. All date from the Meiji era, when Western influences were flooding into Japan and creating some unique hybrid architecture. The highlight is the facade of the original Imperial Hotel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

Allow at least half a day to see Meiji Mura fully. An electric bus beetles from one end to the other, or you can travel part way on an old Kyoto tram and steam locomotive. There are several places to snack or eat lunch, including within the Imperial Hotel itself.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION INUYAMA

By train Frequent trains on the Meitetsu railway take roughly 30min to reach Inuyama from either Nagoya to the south or Gifu to the west. The town has two stations; Inuyama-Yūen is a 10min walk east of the castle, Inuyama is a 20min walk southeast.

Tourist information Inuyama Station has an information booth (daily 9am–5pm; 056 861 6000, inuyama.gr.jp).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Inuyama International Youth Hostel 犬山国際ユースホステル 162-1 Himuro, Tsugao 056 861 1111, jyh.gr.jp/inuyama. Hotel-style modern hostel, 2km west of the castle, with both Western- and Japanese-style private rooms rather than dorms. It also has a good restaurant, serving breakfast for ¥750 and dinner from ¥1500–3200. It’s a 25min walk from the nearest station, Inuyama-Yūen. ¥7800

Okumuratai 奥村邸 395 Higashikoken 056 865 2447, f-narita.com. Set in a former kimono factory and mansion with lovely traditional gardens, a 5min walk north of Inuyama Station, this upmarket French restaurant offers set lunches from ¥2500, dinners from ¥4500. Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–3pm & 5.30–9pm.

Gifu

岐阜

The large city of GIFU, 35km northwest of Nagoya and 20km west of Inuyama, had to be entirely rebuilt after an earthquake in 1891 and blanket bombings during World War II. Like Inuyama, though, it’s famed for offering traditional cormorant fishing – ukai – on a meandering river that’s overlooked by a hilltop castle. Ukai-watching boat trips start from the small but picturesque riverside neighbourhood of old wooden houses known as Kawaramachi (川原町), which also holds some good places to eat plus a handful of interesting galleries and craft shops.

Gifu is also renowned for its high-quality paper crafts, including umbrellas, lanterns, fans and the painted fish banners you see flying off poles like flags.

Gifu-jō

岐阜城 • 18 Tenshukaku • Castle Daily: mid-March to mid-May 9.30am–5.30pm; mid-May to mid-Oct 8.30am–5.30pm (longer hours for summer night view); mid-Oct to mid-March 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥200 • Ropeway Daily: mid-March to mid-May 9am–6pm; mid-May to mid-Oct 8am–6pm; mid-Oct to mid-March 9am–5pm • ¥620 one-way, ¥1080 return (¥900 return in summer night view period) • 058 265 3984, bit.ly/gifu-jo

Seen from the city below, the castle of Gifu-jō is just a white speck, perched high above the densely forested, 329m Kinka-zan. Built originally in the thirteenth century, it fell into ruins after a major confrontation in the lead-up to the battle of Sekigahara in 1600, and was completely rebuilt in 1956. In itself it’s nothing special, but it commands a panoramic view of Gifu. It takes around an hour to hike up there from the lovely city park, Gifu-kōen (岐阜公園), while a ropeway (cable-car) makes the climb in just three minutes.

Gifu City Museum of History

岐阜市歴史博物館, Gifu-shi Rekishi Hakubutsukan • 2-18-1 Omiya-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥310 • 058 265 0010, rekihaku.gifu.gifu.jp/

Large dioramas in the excellent Gifu City Museum of History, in a concrete building in Gifu-kōen, show how the city looked at the height of its military importance. Portuguese missionary Luís Fróis, who was here in 1569, compared Gifu to ancient Babylon. There’s also a great re-creation of medieval streets, complete with soundtrack; in one “shop” visitors can try on kimono.

Shōhō-ji

正法寺 • 8 Daibutsu-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥200 • 058 264 2760, gifu-daibutsu.com

The weatherworn Shōhō-ji, across the main road from Gifu-kōen, houses the Gifu Great Buddha (岐阜大仏), an imposing 13.7m-tall sculpture of Buddha that’s one of the three biggest Buddhas in Japan. Made of lacquered bamboo and papier-mâché in the nineteenth century to remember the victims of earthquakes and epidemics, it took 38 years to complete.

Nagaragawa Ukai Museum

長良川うかいミュージアム • 51-2 Nagara • May to mid-Oct daily 9am–7pm; mid-Oct to April Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 058 210 1555, ukaimuseum.jp

Gifu celebrates its famous tradition of cormorant fishing in the high-tech Nagaragawa Ukai Museum, on the north bank of the river. For such a massive structure, though, it doesn’t hold all that many exhibits, and apart from the introductory film, nothing is translated into English. Still, it’s worth a visit, and there’s a good café and beer garden.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION GIFU

By train Gifu’s two train stations – JR and Meitetsu – stand 5min from one another at the south end of the city’s commercial district, 4km south of the river. To reach Gifu-kōen or the Ukai Museum, catch any service except an express (快速, kaisoku) from stands 11 and 12 outside the JR station (¥210) or platform 4 at the Meitetsu Station.

Destinations Inuyama (Meitetsu; hourly; 35min); Nagoya (JR or Meitetsu; very frequent; 20min–1hr).

Tourist information The tourist office is in the JR station (daily 9am–8pm; 058 262 4415, gifucvb.or.jp/en).

ACCOMMODATION

Dormy Inn Gifu Ekimae ドーミーイン岐阜駅前 6-31 Yoshino-chō 058 267 5489, hotespa.net/hotels/gifu. Simple business hotel near the station, with sleek, cleanly designed rooms and good hot-spring baths. Breakfast ¥1500. ¥12,000

Jūhachirō 十八楼 10 Minato-machi 058 265 1551. This very pleasant large ryokan, overlooking the Nagara-gawa, famously hosted the poet Bashō. The luxurious indoor and outdoor onsen have great panoramic views. River view rooms cost a little more, but are worth the additional cost for the views. Rates include breakfast. ¥18,000

Miyako Hotel Gifu 都翔岐阜長良川 2695-2 Nagarafukumitsu 058 295 3100, miyakohotels.ne.jp/gifu. Opulent Western-style hotel with great views of the castle. Extra perks include a swimming pool, fitness suite and free bicycle rental. The excellent breakfast buffet is ¥2300. ¥26,000

THE CRAFTS OF GIFU

Gifu-ken is known for the quality and variety of its traditional crafts, from the pure white paper made in Mino to the sharp, strong blades produced in Seki. It's well worth seeking out experiences with local craftspeople, so you can get a close look at the levels of mastery involved in producing these items – and then, if you're not too intimidated, have a go yourself. Many craft experiences can be booked in English through govoyagin.com/ja/pages/gifu.

Paper: Mino Not far from Mino city, at the Terada Washi Studio, you can try making some strong but delicate-looking Mino-washi (3hr; ¥12,000), or simply learn about the traditional production techniques and create a beautiful fan or mask (3hr; ¥3600). Visit during the October Akari exhibition to see the city's historic streets lit by the warm glow of lamps made from this paper.

Swords: Seki For generations, Seki city has been known for the quality of its blades. Nowadays it's mostly cutlery rather than katana, but you can still see master swordsmiths at work in the Seki Hamano Museum (関刃物ミュージアム; 950-1 Oze; daily 8.30am–5pm). Learn about the complex process from a 26th-generation master, and even wield the hammer yourself in the sweltering forge (2hr; ¥6810).

Indigo dyeing: Gujō Hachiman Pay a visit to the 400-year-old Watanabe Dyehouse (渡辺染物店; 737 Hachiman-chō Shimadani; daily 10am–5pm; gujozome.jp) to try ai-zome, traditional indigo dyeing, under the expert instruction of the shop's 15th-generation owner (2hr; ¥15,000, or ¥16,500 with interpreter).

Food models: Gujō Hachiman A much more modern craft, but quintessentially Japanese, making fake food is a real art – and 80 percent of the models are made in Gujō Hachiman. At the Sample Kōbō shop (さんぷる工房; 956 Hashimoto-chō; Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; samplekobo.com) you can make one of the realistic plastic models yourself (¥990–1320 per item).

EATING AND DRINKING

Bunkaya文化屋 35 Motohama-chō 058 212 0132. Facing the Nagara-gawa, this place is particularly alluring, with a traditional wooden interior, panoramic windows and innovative menu. Bookings are essential for its ¥3000 meal. Daily 11.30am–3pm & 5.30–10pm.

Kawaramachi Izumiya 泉屋 20 Motohama-chō 058 263 6788, nagaragawa.com. Traditional restaurant by the river, serving the sweet river fish ayu in various styles, especially grilled with salt on skewers. Main dishes around ¥1000, set meals at ¥2160. 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–8.30pm: mid-May to June & Sept to mid-Oct Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun; July & Aug daily.

Kawaramachiya 川原町屋 28 Tamai-chō 058 266 5144, kawaramachiya.jp. This pleasant café-gallery, near the boat office and serving simple dishes like omu-rice and curry for around ¥1300, is easily spotted by the old-fashioned red post box outside. Mon–Wed & Fri 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–6.30pm.

Natural Café & Gallery ナチュラルカフェアンドギャラリー蔵 2-14 Hon-machi 058 269 5788, natural-group.com. Bohemian café and gallery, in an old storehouse near the Hon-machi San-chōme bus stop, with meze-style sharing plates, a good selection of cocktails and wine, and live jazz some evenings. Mains cost around ¥800, sharing plates from ¥1200. Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–midnight.

Gujō Hachiman

郡上八幡

It is a town of low, dark, wood-and-plaster buildings, paved lanes, and running water. The windows of the buildings are narrow and slatted. The lanes, too, are narrow, steeply walled, and end in dimly lanterned eating places or in small stone bridges that arch over splashing streams. It was like an Edo-era stage set. Alan Booth, Looking for the Lost, 1995

Booth’s romantic description captures GUJŌ HACHIMAN’s bygone-days atmosphere and mountain-bound location perfectly. It lies 55km north of Gifu, tucked in a valley on an old trade route that once led to the Sea of Japan. Two pristine rivers, the Yoshida and Nagara, add great appeal; the close link to water is honoured by the Fountain of Youth or Sōgi-sui (宗祇水), the town’s natural spring.

The best time to visit is in summer, when it hosts one of Japan’s top three dance festivals, the Gujō Odori, and the sparkling rivers are tempting for swimmers. Anglers with long poles and tall straw hats can be seen along both rivers trying their luck for ayu (sweet fish) and trout.

Hakurankan

博覧館 • 50 Tonomachi • Daily 9am–5pm; during Gujō Odori 9am–6pm • ¥520, ¥650 with Gujō-Hachiman-jō • 057 565 3215, gujohachiman.com/e_gujohaku

The high-quality Hakurankan museum, on the northern side of the Yoshida River, is a ten-minute stroll from the tourist office. Exhibits detail the town’s history; arts and crafts; connection with water; and the Gujō Odori festival dancing (including demonstrations of the many dances, with a chance to try them yourself).

Gujō-Hachiman-jō

郡上八幡城 • Yanagimachi • Daily: March–May, Sept & Oct 9am–5pm; June–Aug 8am–6pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥310, ¥650 with Hakurankan • 057 567 1819, castle.gujohachiman.com

A photogenic wooden reconstruction of the old castle, Gujō-Hachiman-jō, was erected in 1934 on the stone foundations of the less elaborate original structure. From its ramparts you’ll see that the town resembles a fish in shape, the elegant concrete span of the motorway accenting the tail.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION GUJŌ HACHIMAN

By train From Gifu, take the JR line to Mino-Ōta then transfer to the private – and very scenic – Nagaragawa line (2hr; ¥1890).

By bus Gujō Hachiman has direct bus connections with Nagoya (2hr 20min; ¥2210) and Gifu (1hr 15min; ¥1520).

Tourist information The information office is in a handsome Western-style building, 1km north of the train station (daily 9am–5pm, or 6pm during the festival; 057 567 0002, gujohachiman.com/kanko).

GUJŌ ODORI

While bon-odori festivals are common across Japan, nowhere is the dance so firmly rooted in the life of the community as at Gujō Hachiman, where the Gujō Odori has been celebrated since the 1590s. Nearly every night from mid-July to early September, between around 8pm and 10.30pm (the tourist information centre can tell you exactly when and where), locals don their yukata and geta (they'll wear through several pairs over the course of the festival) and dance in the streets.

People dance in circles around a tall wood-and-bamboo structure, from which a singer, drummers, flute player and a chorus call the tune. The singer announces which of the ten kinds of dance is up next before each one commences. Watch the hand and feet movements of those in the inner circle, who will have learned these steps as children – and try to follow along.

During the Obon holiday in mid-August, dancing goes on all night, and thousands crowd into town. Don’t worry if you can’t find a bed, since there’s always a place for revellers to rest during the festivities – check with the tourist office.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Note that prices rise significantly during the festival (mid-July to early Sept), usually by at least ¥2000 per person.

Café & Marche Mi Kimama カフェ＆マルシェ み・きまま 888 Honmachi 090 4865 0217. Organic café and shop near the river, a great option if you're vegan, with lunch sets for around ¥1500 and sweet-and-drink sets around ¥850. Also offers an unusual range of amazake, such as chocolate or matcha flavours (¥550). Daily from 11am, closing times vary.

Hanamura 花むら 931-2 Shinmachi 057 567 0056. Rustic, friendly place near the river, around the corner from Nakashimaya, where the set dinner of local dishes is a great deal at ¥2500. Daily 5–11pm.

Nakashimaya 中嶋屋 940 Shinmachi 057 565 2191, nakashimaya.net. Beautifully designed traditional ryokan, open for over 140 years, on the main shopping street where the all-night Obon dancing takes place. The rooms are meticulously maintained. Breakfast ¥1650 extra. ¥16,500

Hotel Sekisuien ホテル積翠園 511-2 Hachiman-chō 057 565 3101, hotel-sekisuien.jp. Halfway uphill to the castle, this welcoming modern hotel offers large, bright tatami rooms, excellent meals (some with open-air onsen bath on the veranda) and a big public bath. Rates include two meals. ¥31,900

Soba-no-Hirajin そばの平甚 Honmachi 057 565 2004, hirajin.com. Expect to wait for a table at this popular noodle restaurant north of the river, close to the Fountain of Youth. A bowl of noodles costs around ¥880. Mon–Fri 11am–4pm, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm.

Uotora 魚寅 Shinmachi 057 565 3195, uotora.co.jp. A great place to sample some tasty fish and unagi (eel) dishes, on the main shopping street; set meals cost around ¥2000. Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–2.30pm & 5–8pm.

Niigata

新潟

Most visitors to NIIGATA, the largest port-city on the Sea of Japan coast, are either heading to Sado-ga-shima or making use of the ferry and air connections to Korea, China and Russia. Sitting on the banks of Shinano-gawa, Niigata itself is a likeable but unexciting city, with several good museums and some of the best nihonshū (sake) in Japan. Although a tsunami devastated much of the eastern city in 1964, its historic downtown core, west of the river, retains some attractive streets of older houses.

Niigata’s main thoroughfare starts from the station as Higashi-dōri, and runs through the Bandai City district, which is home to large department stores, cinemas and restaurants, until it reaches the Shinano-gawa after 1km. It then crosses the river via the Bandai bridge to become Masaya-kōji as it continues through downtown’s Furu-machi (古町) shopping district on the far side. Centring on the covered shopping mall of Furumachi-dōri, this area extends north to Hiro-kōji and south to Niitsuya-kōji, with the Hon-chō market on its eastern edge.

Niigata Manga Animation Museum

新潟市マンガ・アニメ情報館, Niigata-shi Manga Anime Jōhō-kan • 2-5-7 Yachiyo, Chūō-ku • Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm • ¥200 • 025 240 4311, museum.nmam.jp

About 15 minutes' walk west of the station is the bright, modern Niigata Manga Animation Museum. Several important artists grew up in the city, and the museum gives you a chance to explore their work while having a go yourself – there are interactive exhibits on everything from manga-style drawing to anime voiceovers.

Hakusan-kōen

白山公園 • 1-2 Ichiban Hori-dōri-chō, Chūō-ku • Park Daily 24hr • Free • Enkikan (燕喜館) Daily 9am–5pm, closed first & third Mon of each month • Tea ¥400 • 025 224 6081 • City Loop bus stop Hakusan-kōen-mae

On the southwestern edge of downtown, across the river, the pleasant park of Hakusan-kōen contains a shrine to the God of Marriage as well as various stone monuments, including one dedicated to the happiness of pine trees. There are also a couple of manicured lily-pad-covered ponds around which wisteria trellises bloom into life in late spring. Enkikan, a Meiji-era teahouse in the park’s northwest corner, was transplanted here from Kyoto. You can take tea (or coffee) in the pristine tatami room of your choice, overlooking a peaceful garden.

Former Prefectural Assembly Hall

新潟県記念館, Niigata-ken Kinenkan • 3-3 Ichiban Hori-dori-chō, Chūō-ku • 9am–4.30pm: Jan & Feb Wed–Sun; March–Dec Tues–Sun • Free • 025 228 3607, bit.ly/niigata-hall

The highly conspicuous gingerbread building on the eastern edge of Hakusan-kōen is the Former Prefectural Assembly Hall, which was built in 1883. Local representatives continued to meet here until 1932, but it now holds an exhibition that tells the story of Japan’s young democracy in action, and includes a fascinating array of archive sepia photos.

Hon-chō Market

本町市場, Hon-chō Ichiba • Daily 8am–5pm, closed three days a month, usually on Sun • honcho6.com

Spreading through a few pedestrianized streets south of Masaya-kōji, around 700m west of the river, the lively Hon-chō Market is the perfect spot to recapture the flavour of old Niigata. Primarily focused on fresh-produce and seafood, it offers the chance to mix with locals, find cheap places to eat, and try out your bargaining skills.

Minatopia

みなとぴあ • 2-10 Yanagishima, Chūō-ku • Tues–Sun: April–Sept 9.30am–6pm; Oct–March 9.30am–5pm • ¥300 (excluding special exhibitions); free English audioguides • 025 225 6111, http://www.nchm.jp/ • City Loop bus stop Rekishi Hakubutsukan-mae

Located on the banks of the Shinano-gawa and opposite the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, it's no surprise that Minatopia (Niigata City History Museum), looks at Niigata's development through the lens of water – how it's created, connected and challenged the area. Most of the exhibits are in the main building, a replica of the grand 1909 city hall, but the attractive site also contains other interesting buildings such as the 1869 former customs house, with its nameko-style plaster walls.

Northern Culture Museum

北方文化博物館, Happō Bunka Hakubutsukan • 2-15-25 Sōmi, Yokogoshi • Daily: April–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4.30pm • ¥800 • 025 385 2001, hoppou-bunka.com/english • Express bus from Bandai City or Eki-mae terminal (10 daily; ¥500 one-way); last bus back leaves at 5pm

The fertile plains around Niigata used to support a number of wealthy landowners, who lived in considerable luxury until they were forced by the Land Reform Act of 1946 to sell all rice land above 7.5 acres per household. One such family was the Itō, whose superb mansion is now the centrepiece of the Northern Culture Museum, 12km southeast of the city centre in the village of Yokogoshi. Their huge house was erected in 1887 and comprises sixty rooms filled with family heirlooms, but it’s the classic garden that steals the show. Viewed from inside, it forms a magnificent frieze along one side of the principal guest room.

There is also a Niigata Annex of the museum, housed in another beautiful property the Itō family owned, though it's styled quite differently. The exhibits here focus mainly on the work of calligrapher and poet Aizu Yaichi (2-562 Minamihama-dōri; Tues–Sun, March & Dec 9.30am–4.30pm, April–Nov 9.30am–5pm; ¥450; 025 222 2262), and there's little English guidance.

ECHIGO-TSUMARI

Every three years, the mountainous, rural and relatively unspoiled Echigo-Tsumari region of Niigata-ken, roughly 100km south of Niigata itself, hosts a spectacular international art festival. The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennial ( echigo-tsumari.jp/eng) takes place between late July and mid-September (in 2018, 2021, 2024, etc). Artists from all over the world are invited to exhibit their work, with previous standouts including Cai Guo Quiang from China, who reconstructed an old Chinese climbing kiln, and Rina Banerjee, who, inspired by the Taj Mahal, converted a school gymnasium into a giant bird cage.

Even if you can’t coincide with the festival, this region is still hugely rewarding to visit. The main places to head for are Tokamachi, Matsudai and Matsunoyama, all of which have fascinating permanent exhibition facilities built for past triennials, as well as plenty of sculptures and other artworks sited in paddy fields (Tokamachi's rice terraces are particularly photogenic) and on hillsides.

The best way to get around is to rent a car, although during the festival free bikes are available at all the main sites. You can travel here by local train from either Echigo-Yuzawa on the Niigata Shinkansen route or Saigata on the Jōetsu line.

Accommodation

Thanks to the Triennial, Echigo-Tsumari has some truly extraordinary places to stay. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting during the relatively limited opening periods, and reserve long enough in advance, it’s possible to spend a night in one of six artworks, which are either newly commissioned structures or renovated abandoned buildings such as old farms or schools. Both listed below can be visited during the day as well as accommodating overnight guests. Precise opening dates vary each year; check individual websites for current details, or see echigo-tsumari.jp/eng/facility/stay.

Dream House 夢の家 642 Matsunoyama Yumoto 025 596 3134, tsumari-artfield.com/dreamhouse. Serbian performance artist Marina Abramović’s refurbished century-old farmhouse, near a hot spring 4km south of Matsunoyama, merges tradition and modern elements in a simple and elegant building. Guests are expected to sleep in “dream suits” and record their dreams in a Dream Book. Unless you book the whole property, you may be sharing with other guests. Breakfast costs ¥500; dinner is not available. ¥33,000, plus ¥6300 per person

House of Light 光の館 2891 Ueno-ko, Tokamachi 025 761 1090, hikarinaoyakata.com. This meditation house, a pavilion raised on stilts on a hillside 9km northwest of Tokamachi, was designed by James Turrell in traditional local style. It features a retractable roof, a slick modern interior, and media installations, and combines natural and artificial light to stunning effect. The house sleeps up to twelve, with the express aim of holding three family groups; smaller parties share with others. Breakfast is not available; dinner can be ordered for ¥2200 and up. ¥30,000, plus ¥6000 per person

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NIIGATA

By plane Niigata Airport ( niigata-airport.gr.jp) is 8km northeast of Niigata’s train station, to which it’s connected by regular buses (every 20–30min; 30min; ¥420).

Destinations Centrair, Nagoya (2 daily; 55min); Fukuoka (5 daily; 2hr); Harbin (4 weekly; 2hr 10min); Nagoya Komaki (2 daily; 1hr); Okinawa (2 daily; 3hr 5min); Osaka Kansai (daily; 1hr 25min); Osaka Itami (13 daily; 1hr 10min); Sapporo (5 daily; 1hr 10min); Seoul (3 weekly; 2hr 15min); Shanghai (2 weekly; 3hr); Taipei (2 weekly; 3hr 30min); Tokyo Narita (daily; 1hr 10min).

By train Niigata Station, in the city centre, is the northern terminus for trains on the Jōetsu Shinkansen line from Tokyo. Local JR lines run north along the Sea of Japan coast to Akita, and west along the coast to Jōetsumyōkō, where it meets the Shinkansen line to Kanazawa.

Destinations Akita (3 daily; 3hr 40min); Jōetsumyōkō (5 daily; 2hr); Tokyo (1–2 hourly; 1hr 40min–2hr 20min); Tsuruoka (4 daily; 1hr 45min).

By bus Most express buses use the Niigata Kōtsū Bus Centre, also known as Bandai City Bus Centre, 800m northwest of Niigata Station, though some also stop outside the train station. For current timetables, visit niigata-kotsu.co.jp.

Destinations Kanazawa (2 daily; 4hr 40min); Kyoto (daily; 8hr 10min); Nagano (4 daily; 3hr 30min); Osaka (daily; 9hr 30min); Sendai (8 daily; 4hr); Tokyo Ikebukuro (14 daily; 5hr 20min); Yamagata (2 daily; 3hr 40min).

By ferry As detailed, the Sado Kisen Terminal, on the east bank of the Shinano-gawa 2.3km northeast of the station, is the base for ferries and jetfoil services to Ryōtsu on Sado Island, operated by Sado Kisen ( www.sadokisen.co.jp). The Shin-Nihonkai Ferry Terminal, also on the east bank and 1km further downstream, is used by direct ferries to Otaru (Hokkaidō), and by a ferry that hops along the Honshū coast, heading north to Akita and on to Tomakomai on Hokkaidō, and also west to Tsuruga; all are operated by Shin-Nihonkai ( snf.jp). Both terminals are linked by local buses, costing ¥210, to Niigata Station. The Sado Kisen terminal has its own special bus (15min); for Shin-Nihonkai, catch a bus for Rinkō Nichōme and get off at Suehiro-bashi (20min).

Destinations Akita (daily; 7hr 45min); Otaru, Hokkaidō (daily; 16–20hr); Ryōtsu, Sado (10–16 daily; 1hr 5min–2hr 30min); Tomakomai, Hokkaidō (daily; 16hr); Tsuruga (daily; 13hr).

INFORMATION

Tourist information The city’s helpful tourist office, well stocked with English brochures, is outside the central (Bandai) exit of Niigata Station (daily 9am–7pm; 025 241 7914, nvcb.or.jp). Other useful online resources include enjoyniigata.com.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Local buses depart from the station terminal; most make their first stop outside the Bandai City Bus Centre. The most useful routes for visitors are the City Loop Bus, which makes a circuit around the central attractions, and the special bus to the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, which leaves from platform 3 outside the station. Both charge ¥210 per trip, which is the flat fare for all bus journeys within the city centre; a one-day pass costs ¥500. Timetables are available on niigata-kotsu.co.jp.

By bike Ask at the tourist office about Niigata’s great bike rental system; bikes cost from ¥100/3hr (plus ¥200 registration fee), and can be picked up and dropped off at several locations, including the station.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Juraku Stay Niigata ジュラクステイ新潟 1-6-5 Hanazono 025 249 8100, jurakustayniigata.book.direct/en-gb. Simple, comfortable and extremely well priced hotel near the station, with Western-style rooms and a generous buffet breakfast (¥1000). ¥7410

Hotel Mets Niigata ホテルメッツ新潟 1-96-47 Hanazono 025 246 2100, www.hotelmets.jp/en/niigata. This stylish new JR-owned hotel could hardly be more convenient – guest access is from inside the station, though the comfortable rooms are high enough to be noise-free. They offer a good Japanese breakfast buffet (¥1200), and the Ponshukan sake museum is in the same building – very handy if you try one too many glasses. ¥17,000

Hotel Nikkō Niigata ホテル日航新潟 5-1 Bandai-jima 025 240 1888, www.hotelnikkoniigata.jp. This towering high-rise hotel, 1.7km north of the station, is the tallest building on the Sea of Japan coast, and ideally located both for the adjoining Toki Messe convention centre, and the Sado Island ferry terminal a few hundred metres along the riverside. Rooms are Western-style – all have great views, being on the 22nd floor and above – and there are two restaurants, a café and a bar. Breakfast ¥2200 extra. ¥20,000

Seikokan 清廣館 802 Deyu Agano-shi, Deyu Onsen 025 062 3833, seikokan.jp/027.html. This wonderful old family-run inn in the hamlet of Deyu Onsen, 25km southeast of Niigata, is perfect for a relaxing ryokan experience. The rooms in the wooden building are spacious and comfortable, there’s an atmospheric 100-year-old bath, and the public areas include tasteful modern design touches. Rates include two meals, with vegetables fresh from the garden. To get here, catch a train from Niigata to Shibata or Suibara (20min–1hr); the friendly English-speaking owners will usually be happy to pick you up. Cash only. ¥30,000

EATING MAP

Niigata is widely known for its fresh fish and fragrant rice, which means excellent sushi. Glutinous rice is used to make sasa-dango, a sweet snack of bean paste and rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, while in winter, noppe combines taro, ginkgo nuts, salmon roe and vegetables in a colourful stew that’s commonly served as a side dish.

Benkei Niigata Pia Bandai-ten 弁慶 新ピア万代店 2-4 Bandai-jima 025 255 6000, sado-benkei.com. The Pia Bandai fish market, 15min walk north of the station – or a simple bus ride – holds a number of good seafood restaurants, but if you don’t speak Japanese this conveyor-belt sushi place is much the easiest option. Ultra-fresh dishes cost ¥130–520, while you can order off-menu by indicating to whichever daily special your neighbours seem to be enjoying. There’s another branch on Furumachi-dōri, downtown. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10.30am–9pm.

Suzakaya Soba 須坂屋そば 1-4-29 Benten-chō 025 241 7705, suzakaya.web.fc2.com. Sizeable soba restaurant, a short walk north of the station, that’s especially useful for a cheap lunch or after-hours meal. Tasty fresh soba noodles, topped perhaps with breaded pork cutlets or tempura prawn, cost from ¥1000, while full set meals start at ¥3000. Ten percent discount for holders of one-day bus passes. Mon–Sat 11am–1am, Sun 11am–midnight.

Uonuma Kamakura Ponshukan 魚沼釜蔵 ぽんしゅ館 1-96-47 Hanazono 025 240 7092. All-day restaurant, immediately across from the south exit of the station, specializing in local delicacies, and seafood in particular, with lunchtime rice bowls, noodles or stews for around ¥1000, and full dinners from ¥3000. Daily 6.30–10am, 11am–2pm & 5–11pm.

DRINKING MAP

Niigata-ken’s most famous product is its sake, which is available all over town. If you'd like to know more about how it's made, book onto one of the area's sake brewery tours – Imayo Tsukasa is a good option near Niigata Station, with English tours and tastings available for free if you ask in advance ( 025 245 0325, imayotsukasa.com).

Ponshukan ぽんしゅ館 1-96-47 Hanazono 025 240 70809, ponshukan-niigata.com. On the third floor of the Hotel Mets building, you'll find a cluster of shops, bars and even a museum dedicated to nihonshu. Start in the tasting room, where you can try five samples for ¥500 – there are almost 100 varieties in all, and they're dispensed by gachapon-style vending machines. Daily: sake tasting 9.30am–8.30pm; sake bar 11am–10pm.

Smoke Café スモークカフェ 1-18-4 Sasaguchi 025 246 0250. Friendly, trendy bar, in the backstreets just south of the station on the second floor of a modern building, where the wide array of international beers includes Guinness and Belgian Trappist brew (pints from ¥800), and they also serve good pizza and pasta. Tues–Thurs & Sun 6pm–2am, Fri & Sat 6pm–3am.

Sado-ga-shima

佐渡島

For centuries, the rugged, S-shaped island of SADO-GA-SHIMA, out to sea 35km off Honshū, was a place of exile. Even today, it still exudes a unique atmosphere born of its isolation, while its distinct cultural heritage encompasses haunting folk songs, nō theatre and puppetry, as well as the more recently established Kodō drummers.

Measuring roughly 60km north to south, and thus much too large to think of as a day-trip destination, Sado consists of two parallel mountain chains, linked by a fertile central plain that shelters most of its historic sites, including several important temples, such as Kompon-ji, founded by the exiled Buddhist monk Nichiren. The Edo-period gold mines of Aikawa, on the northwest coast, make another interesting excursion, but the island’s greatest appeal lies in its coastal scenery, and the glimpses it affords of an older Japan.

SADO FESTIVALS

Sado has a packed calendar of festivals from April to November. Many of these involve okesa folk songs and the demon-drumming known as ondeko (or oni-daiko), both of which are performed nightly during the tourist season in Ogi and Aikawa. Nō groups perform in shrines around the central plain all through June, while the island’s biggest event of all is the Kodō drummers’ International Earth Celebration, held in Ogi.

Sado is becoming increasingly popular as a location for trekking, biking, canoeing and other outdoor activities. It hosts a number of international competitions, including a gruelling annual triathlon each September ( bit.ly/sado-triathlon).

Brief history

From ancient times onwards, the powers-that-be viewed Sado as a suitably remote place to banish their enemies and unwanted elements of society. The most illustrious exile was the former emperor Juntoku (reigned 1211–21) who, after trying to wrest power back from Kamakura, was condemned to spend his final twenty years here. A few decades later, Nichiren, the founder of the eponymous Buddhist sect, found himself on the island for a couple of years; he wasted no time in erecting temples and converting the local populace. Then there was Zeami, a famous actor and playwright credited with formalizing nō theatre, who was sent here in 1434, spending eight years in exile at the end of his life.

In 1601, rich seams of gold and silver were discovered in the mountains above Aikawa. From then on, criminals were sent to work in Japan’s most productive gold mine, supplemented by supposedly “homeless” workers forcibly removed from Edo (now Tokyo), who dug some 400km of tunnels down to 600m below sea level – all by hand. In 1896, Mitsubishi took the mines over from the imperial household, and they’re now owned by the Sado Gold Mining Co, which continued to extract small quantities of gold until 1989.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SADO-GA-SHIMA

BY FERRY

All ferries to Sado are operated by Sado Kisen (Niigata 025 245 1234, Naoetsu 025 544 1234). If you have a JR East Pass, you can buy the excellent-value Sado-Niigata Pass ( sado-niigata.com/pass; ¥4000), which covers a Niigata City Loop Bus one-day pass, a return bus journey between Niigata Station and the port, the return ferry trip, free e-bike rental on Sado, and a three-day Sado bus pass.

From Niigata Sado’s main gateway, Ryōtsu on the east coast, is served by jetfoils (5–9 daily; 1hr 5min; one-way ¥6510, 5-day return ¥11,780) and much slower car ferries (5–7 daily; 2hr 30min; from ¥2420 each way) to and from Niigata’s Sado Kisen Terminal. Reservations are required for the jetfoil and recommended for all crossings in summer.

From Naoetsu Seasonal high-speed car ferries connect Naoetsu port (直江津), 125km southwest of Niigata (and 20min by bus from Naoetsu Station), with Ogi on Sado’s south coast (March–Oct 3–4 daily, plus 1 daily for a few days around New Year; 1hr 40min; one-way ¥3840, 5-day return ¥6970).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Maps, bus timetables and other information, including excellent cycling and walking guides, are available at ferry terminals and the various tourist offices on the island. The best overall source of information is Sado’s official website, visitsado.com/en. Look out for the excellent English tourist map, detailing hotels, restaurants, shops and attractions, that’s published annually by MIJ International; their website, mijintl.com, also carries up-to-date ferry information.

GETTING AROUND

By bus It’s possible to get around most of the island by bus, if you allow plenty of time. However, in winter some services only operate at weekends or stop completely. And even at the best of times, a number of routes have only two or three buses per day, so check current timetables (available in English from tourist offices, or online at visitsado.com/en) and make sure you've got plenty of cash in case you end up stranded and in need of a taxi. One-day (¥1500), two-day (¥2500) and three-day (¥3000; included in the Sado-Niigata Pass) passes, covering all public transport, are sold at ferry terminals and tourist offices.

By car By far the most flexible option for exploring Sado is to rent a car, which costs from around ¥6500/day; you’ll find outlets including Sado Kisen Rent-a-Car ( 025 927 5195) at the ferry terminals.

By bike Several outlets in Ryōtsu and elsewhere, detailed on the tourist office website and including some hostels and hotels, rent out bikes for around ¥1500 a day. Electric-assist bikes are also available (¥500 for first 2hr from Ryōtsu, Ogi and Aikawa tourist information centres, ¥2000 for 24hr), and extremely useful on this mountainous island. Don’t underestimate the sheer scale of Sado; you’ll only be able to see a small proportion of the island in a day’s excursion.

Ryōtsu

両津

Part fishing village, part ferry port, sitting on a huge horseshoe bay with the mountains of Sado rising behind, RYŌTSU is a somewhat run-down little place that still has an appealingly “authentic” – as in, uncommercialized – edge. These days, most activity focuses on the ferry pier (両津埠頭) at its southern end, but there’s still a flavour of the original fishing community among the rickety wooden houses with their coiled nets and fishy odours in the older backstreets to the north. Much of the town occupies a thin strip of land between the sea and a large salt-water lake, Kamo-ko, which is now used for oyster farming.

INFORMATION RYŌTSU

Tourist information Sado’s main tourist office is by the ferry terminal (daily 7am–6pm; 025 927 5000, visitsado.com/en). Buses depart from the bus terminal below the ferry building, where you’ll also find car rental agencies and taxis.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Minshuku Tōkaen 民宿桃華園 1636-1 Kanai Shinbo 025 963 2221, bit.ly/sado-tokaen. Tranquil guesthouse, 9km southwest of Ryōtsu, offering sizeable apartment-like suites, an onsen, and excellent food. Staff can advise on and arrange all sorts of outdoor activities, from hiking to fishing and diving. Guests are strongly advised to rent a car or bike; it’s 3km from the nearest bus stop. Breakfast around ¥1000 extra, dinner ¥3300. ¥9000

Tenkuni 天国 206 Ryōtsu-Minato 025 923 2714. This popular local restaurant, 400m southwest of the ferry terminal, specializes in fresh seafood, offering moderately priced sashimi, tempura and donburi dishes, typically costing around ¥1100. Daily 11am–3pm & 6–10pm.

Yoshidaya 吉田家 261-1 Ryōtsu-Ebisu 025 927 2151, yosidaya.com. Large ryokan, facing the lake around a 10min walk from the ferry terminal. Most of its spacious tatami rooms have balconies with stunning views over the water. You can have a Western-style bed if you’d rather, and there’s an outdoor bath on the rooftop. Rates include two meals; deduct around ¥2600 per head for room only. ¥24,000

Central Sado

国仲佐渡

Sado’s central plain is the most heavily populated part of the island, home to the majority of its fifty-five thousand inhabitants. A flat, fertile landscape filled with rice fields, the region also holds several impressive temples, dating back in some instances as far as the eighth century, and visibly benefiting from the wealth brought in during Sado’s boom periods from the gold and rice trades.

Kompon-ji

根本寺 • 1837 Niibo-ono • Daily: April–Oct 8am–4.30pm; Nov–March 8am–3.30pm • ¥300 • 025 922 3751, www.sado-konponji.com • 2min walk from the Komponji-mae bus stop, on the Minamisen line

Sado’s most accessible and important temple, Kompon-ji, marks the spot where the exiled Nichiren lived in 1271, though the temple itself was founded some years later. Arrive early, before the coach parties, and you can enjoy a pleasant stroll around the mossy garden with its thatched temple buildings filled with elaborate gilded canopies, all presided over by a statue of Nichiren in his characteristic monk’s robes.

Mano and around

真野

Coastal MANO, at the southwest corner of Sado’s central valley, was once the provincial capital, and today is a laidback spot which makes a good base for visiting the rest of the island. The surrounding area holds several historic sites worth checking out, including some impressive temple complexes erected during the island’s era of prosperity.

Myōsen-ji

妙宣寺 • 29 Abutsubō • Daily dawn–dusk • Free • 025 955 2061 • 3min walk from the Takeda-bashi bus stop, on the Kuninaka Kanamarusen line

The Myōsen-ji temple complex was founded by one of Nichiren’s earliest disciples, the retired Samurai Tamemori Endō, during the late thirteenth century. It includes a graceful five-storey wooden pagoda that took over thirty years to build, as well as a large thatched-roof building and elegantly sculptured gardens.

Kokubun-ji

国分寺 • 113 Kokubun-ji • Daily dawn–dusk • Free • 025 955 2059 • Buses on the Minamisen line stop outside on Sat & Sun only; otherwise 35min walk from the Takeda-bashi bus stop

Sado’s oldest temple, Kokubun-ji, is said to date from 764, though the temple’s present buildings were constructed in the late seventeenth century. Head west through the tranquil main temple and you'll come to a large, tree-studded field. Dotted around there are a few remains, including foundation stones and parts of the central and south gates, which give you an idea of just how vast the original complex once was.

Sado Rekishi-Densetsukan

佐渡歴史伝説館 • 655 Mano • Daily: April–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec–March 9am–4.30pm • ¥800 • 025 955 2525, sado-rekishi.jp • 30min walk southeast from central Mano; 10min from the nearest bus stop, Mano goryō-iriguchi, on bus #4 from Sawata south to Ogi

The intriguing, entertaining Sado Rekishi-Densetsukan, next door to a simple shrine dedicated to Emperor Juntoku, is a modern waterside museum where multimedia displays including full-sized robots and holograms bring local history and folk tales to life. Local crafts and souvenirs are also on sale, and a good restaurant offers set meals for ¥1000.

Sawata

佐和田

Half a dozen kilometres north along the coast from Mano, SAWATA serves as Sado’s main administrative centre. There’s really very little here to detain you, though its old commercial street, parallel to the seafront one block inland, holds a handful of time-forgotten old shops.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE CENTRAL SADO

By bus Sawata’s bus terminal is on the north side of town, with services to Aikawa (lines 1 & 10; very frequent; 20min), Ogi (lines 10 & 16; 13 daily; 1hr) and Ryōtsu (lines 1 & 2; very frequent; 35–55min).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Two roads cross Sado’s central plain to link Ryōtsu with towns on the west coast: the main highway cuts southwest from Kamo-ko to Sado Airport and on to Sawata, served by buses on the Hon-sen route (line 1), while the quieter, southerly route takes you through Niibo (新穂), Hatano (畑野) and Mano along the Minamisen bus route (line 2).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Green Village Patio House グリーンヴィレッジパティオハウス 750-4 Niibo-Uryūya 025 922 2719, bit.ly/sado-greenvillage. Charming guesthouse with a homely 1950s feel, just east of Niibo village 9km south of Ryōtsu – drivers on the Ogi Port Minamisen line will drop you off at the turning. As well as good-value meals – breakfast costs ¥700 per head – the friendly owners have laundry facilities and rental bikes, and can suggest cycling routes. Dorms ¥3800

Hostel Perch ホステルパーチ 4 Kawaharada, Suwa-machi 025 958 7311, s-perch.com/en. Simple, friendly hostel in a renovated 70-year-old Japanese inn, opened in 2018. As well as one mixed and one women-only dorm, there are three private rooms. Cash only. ¥400, doubles ¥8500

Ryokan Urashima 浦島 978-3 Kubota, Mano 025 957 3751, urasima.com. Ultra-modern inn, facing the beach at Mano bay just west of Sawata and designed by architect Kitayama Koh. Accommodation is in stylishly minimalist Western- and Japanese-style rooms, while French and Japanese cuisine are available in its two separate buildings, with the emphasis firmly on seafood; breakfast and dinner cost ¥1100 and ¥3300 per person respectively. ¥22,000

Shimafūmi シマフウミ 105-4 Daishō, Mano 025 955 4545, www.primosado.jp/shimafumi.html Make the trip to this chic seafront café, and you’ll be rewarded with stunning coastal views from its outside deck, as well as great bread, pastry and sandwiches from its on-site bakery. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–5pm.

Sushiya Maruishi すしやまるいし 1031-1 Izumi, Kanai 025 963 3066, ishiharasuisan.com/412.html. Conveyor-belt sushi restaurant, on the main cross-island road 3km northeast of Sawata. Run by Sado’s major seafood company, it serves superbly fresh fish (the menu shows which were caught around the island) at very reasonable prices. There are also a few non-fish sushi options, such as asparagus and prosciutto, egg, and cucumber. Portions cost ¥130–520; there's no English menu, but prices are clear from plate colour. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–9pm.

Ogi and around

小木

Tiny OGI, Sado’s second port, is close to the island’s southern tip, 43km southwest of Ryōtsu. A sleepy fishing town, it’s split in two by a small headland, with the original harbour to the west and the modern ferry terminal on its east side. Ogi is best known for its tub boats, formerly fishing craft, which now bob around in the harbour for tourists, and the annual Earth Celebration that’s hosted by the locally based Kodō drummers, during which the village’s population almost doubles.

This region’s principal attraction, however, is the picturesque indented coastline west of town. You can take boat trips around the headland, or cycle over the top to Shukunegi, a traditional fishing village huddled behind a wooden palisade. After a tough uphill pedal out of the port on the road west to Shukunegi, turn right towards a concrete jizō standing above the trees. From here, continue another 300m along this side road and you’ll find a short flight of steps leading up to the Iwaya cave – the old trees and tiny, crumbling temple surrounded by jizō statues make a good place to catch your breath. Return to the coast and follow the road around the peninsula for stunning sea views.

Sado Island Taiko Centre

佐渡太鼓体験交流館, Sado Taiko Taiken Kōryūkan • 150-3 Ogikaneta Shinden, Kodō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥2000 for 1hr drumming lesson, available Sat & Sun 10am, 1.30pm & 3pm, and on weekdays with advance reservations • 025 986 2320, sadotaiken.jp • Served by buses on the Shukunegi line

The smart Sado Island Taiko Centre stands atop a hill above the Kodō village, commanding stunning views over and along the coast. You can learn drumming from Kodō drummers in fun and energetic lessons in the spacious practice room on the ground floor. The drums come in all sorts of sizes, up to giant ones that measure 3m in diameter, and you use sticks weighing up to 5kg, so come prepared for a workout.

Shukunegi

宿根木

Tucked in a fold of the hills beside a little harbour full of jagged black rocks, the fishing village of SHUKUNEGI is a registered national historic site. As the home of skilful shipbuilders, it was an important port at the peak of Sado’s gold trade between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries. The village itself is hardly visible behind its high wooden fence – protection against the fierce winds – where its old wooden houses, three of which are open to the public in summer (hours vary, usually April–Sept daily 10am–5pm; ¥300–500 each), are jumbled together in a tangle of odd-shaped corners and narrow, stone-flagged alleys.

Sadokoku Ogi Folk Culture Museum

佐渡国小木民俗博物館, Sadokoku Ogi Minzoku Hakubutsukan • 290-2 Shukunegi • 8.30am–5pm: April–Oct daily; Nov–March Tues–Sun • ¥500 • 025 986 2604, bit.ly/sadokoku

On the road from Ogi to Shukunegi, next to a still-functioning boatyard, the Sadokoku Ogi Folk Culture Museum contains a delightful, dusty jumble of old photos, paper-cuts, tofu presses, straw raincoats and other remnants of local life. Behind, in a newer building, there’s a relief map of the area and beautiful examples of the ingenious traps used by Ogi fisherfolk.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OGI

By bus Buses use the station behind Ogi post office, just inland from the tourist-boat pier. Services run to Aikawa (line 10; 2 daily; 1hr 30min), Etsumi (line 11; 4 daily; 40min) and Sawata (lines 10 & 16; 13 daily; 1hr).

By ferry Seasonal car ferries connect Ogi with Naoetsu on the mainland.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information Ogi’s tourist office is in the Marine Plaza building at 1935-26 Ogi-machi (Mon–Sat 8.30am–5.30pm; 025 986 3200, visitsado.com/en). On summer evenings, this building hosts performances of okesa odori folk singing (April–Oct; ¥500). You can also rent e-bikes here (¥500/2hr, waived if you have a Sado-Niigata Pass, plus ¥200 each extra hour or ¥2000/24hr), perfect for exploring the craggy headland.

Sightseeing boats Setting off from the jetty, boats sail along the coast past caves and dainty islets as far as Sawa-zaki lighthouse (mid-March to mid-Nov 6–18 daily; 40min; ¥1500; 025 975 2311).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Cafe Nano カフェなの 426 Shukunegi 070 4314 7862, cafenano.business.site. Cosy, modern café in a traditional building in the heart of Shukunegi. Good coffee (around ¥500), lunches for around ¥1000, plus delicious home-made waffles, and gelato in flavours like matcha or black sesame gelato. Hours vary; usually Mon & Fri–Sun 11am–4.30pm.

CHILDREN OF THE DRUM

During the early 1970s, a group of students sought seclusion on Sado-ga-shima, to pursue their study of traditional taiko drumming and to experiment with its potent music. A decade later, the Kodō Drummers unleashed their primal rhythms on the world, and they have continued ever since to stun audiences with their electrifying performances. The name Kodō can mean both “heartbeat” and “children of the drum” – despite its crashing sound, the beat of their trademark giant Ōdaiko is said to resemble the heart as heard from inside the womb.

The drummers are based in Kodō village, a few kilometres north of Ogi, where they have set up the Sado Island Taiko Centre, offering workshops for tourists and a two-year apprenticeship programme. Every year, they host the three-day Earth Celebration arts festival in late August, when percussionists from all over the world and a friendly multinational audience of several thousand stir up the sleepy air of Ogi. They also occasionally perform in Shukunegi's community centre, for a smaller and usually more local audience. Details of tours and the next Earth Celebration are posted on their website ( kodo.or.jp).

THE TUB BOATS OF SADO

Ogi’s tub boats, also known as tarai-bune or hangiri, were originally used for collecting seaweed, abalone and other shellfish from the rocky coves. Today they’re made of fibreglass, but still resemble the cutaway wooden barrels from which they were traditionally made. If you fancy a shot at rowing one of these awkward vessels, go to the small jetty west of the ferry pier, where women will take you out for a ten-minute spin around the harbour (daily: March to mid-Oct 8.20am–5pm, mid-Oct to Nov 8.20am–4.30pm, Dec–Feb 9am–4pm; ¥500 per person; 025 986 3153, bit.ly/ogi-boats).

If you’d like to try one of the traditional wooden versions, head west along the coast to sleepy Shukunegi (late March to late Nov several daily, 9am–6pm; 15–35min; ¥800–2000; 090 4835 5446), where you'll be paddled around past eerie volcanic rock formations in the startlingly clear water.

Hananoki 花の木 78-1 Shukunegi 025 986 2331, sado-hananoki.com. Set in a 150-year-old house that was transplanted to this spot, this traditional inn features a beautiful dining room complete with open hearth and organically shaped tree-trunk tables. Five of the seven tranquil, en-suite guest rooms are set in a pretty traditional garden, in a row of separate cabins with views over the surrounding paddy fields. Two meals a day (vegetarian dishes on request) are available for ¥5500 per person (breakfast only ¥550). ¥13,260

Minshuku Sakaya 民宿さかや 1991 Ogi-machi 025 986 2535. Popular seafront inn in central Ogi, a 5min walk east of the ferry terminal. It offers clean tatami rooms and tasty food, but unfortunately its sea views are blocked by the harbour wall. Rates include two meals. ¥15,000

Shichiemon 七右衛門 643-1 Ogi-machi 025 986 2046. At the top of the shopping street curving behind the western harbour, near Anryū-ji, this restaurant dishes up just one variety of delicious, handmade soba (¥480). Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–2pm.

North Sado

北佐渡

Sado’s northern promontory contains the island’s highest mountains and some of its finest coastal scenery. Aikawa, the only settlement of any size, was once a lively mining town whose gold and silver ores filled the shoguns’ coffers. The mines are no longer working, but they now serve as an industrial museum, Sado Kinzan, where robots demonstrate how things were done in days of yore.

North of Aikawa, the rather overrated Senkaku-wan (尖閣湾) is a small stretch of picturesque cliffs; it’s better to head on up the wild Soto-kaifu coast to Hajiki-zaki (弾崎) on the island’s northern tip. Not surprisingly, this area isn’t well served by public transport, particularly in winter when snow blocks the mountain passes; to explore this part of the island you need to rent a car or be prepared for hard cycling.

Aikawa

相川

After gold and silver were discovered in 1601, the population of AIKAWA rocketed from a hamlet of just ten families to 100,000 people, including many brought here as convict labourers. Now less than a tenth of that size, Aikawa is primarily of interest for its mining museum not far inland. That said, once you get off the main road, and delve among the temples, shrines and wooden houses pressed up against the hillside, it’s surprisingly attractive.

Sado Kinzan

佐渡金山 • 1305 Shimo-Aikawa • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5.30pm; Nov–March 8.30am–5pm • ¥900 each tunnel, or ¥1400 for both • 025 974 2389, sado-kinzan.com • The Nanaura-kaigan bus line connects the mine with Aikawa on the Kaifu line; with connections or through service for Sawata and Ryōtsu

A steep winding road climbs 2.5km inland from Aikawa, up a narrow valley, to reach the source of the town’s ancient wealth – the old gold mines of Sado Kinzan. Of the two underground passageways that can be explored on self-guided tours – each takes around half an hour – the most interesting and enjoyable is the Sōdayū Tunnel, dug by hand during the Edo era, from the early seventeenth century onwards, to access one of the mine’s richest veins. With life-size animatronic miners hard at work in its inner recesses, visits provide a real taste of the appalling conditions here centuries ago, while a modern museum in the main building provides the full historic and geological background.

WALKING THE CEDAR FORESTS

Sado’s northern Ōsado mountain range contains primeval forests of gigantic ancient cedar trees. Although these are protected areas, a walkway near Ishina, midway along the northern coast, takes you into prime wooded areas. The circuit is fairly gentle and takes around an hour, but, given the elevation of more than 900m, high winds and temperatures 5˚C below those at the coast, you should come prepared for changeable weather. Trekkers wanting to go further afield need to hire a guide, as access is strictly limited.

The separate Dōyū Tunnel, which burrows away from beside the site’s ticket office, was created during the Meiji era, using mechanized tools. It’s longer, deeper and emptier, but the highlight comes halfway along, when you emerge outdoors to be confronted by stunning views of Sado’s major physical landmark, a mountain peak that was literally split in two by mining operations.

There’s a large café and gift store up at the mine, while, given the intermittent bus service down the hillside, it’s well worth walking back to Aikawa. Parallel to, but invisible from, the main road, a delightful footpath runs through a centuries-old merchants’ quarter, scattered with temples and shrines.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AIKAWA

By bus Aikawa’s bus terminal is close to the sea in the heart of town, with services to Ogi (line 10; 2 daily; 1hr 30min), Ryōtsu (lines 1 & 2; very frequent; 55min–1hr 30min) and Sawata (lines 1 & 10; very frequent; 20min).

Tourist information Aikawa’s tourist office is in the bus terminal (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 025 974 2220, visitsado.com/en).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Dōyū Ryokan 道遊旅館 333-1 Aikawa-Kabuse 025 974 3381, douyuu.com. Small modern inn on a quiet street one block inland from the bus terminal, offering traditional tatami rooms, an ocean-view onsen, and excellent seafood-based cuisine – local crab is a speciality. Rates include two meals. ¥22,000

Hotel Ōsado ホテル大佐渡 288-1 Aikawa-Kabuse 025 974 3300, oosado.com. This large and luxurious seafront hotel, on the Kasugazaki headland 2km west of the town centre, offers both Japanese- and Western-style rooms. Onsen addicts will love its glorious, large rotemburo. Rates include two meals. ¥19,800

The northern cape

Five kilometres north of Aikawa, the road skirts around the edge of a bay where jagged cliffs crumble away into clusters of little islands. There’s a pretty good view of the bay of Senkaku-wan from the road itself or from the observatory in Ageshima-yūen (揚島遊園; 1561 Kita-ebisu; daily: March, April & Nov 8.30am–5pm, May–Oct 8am–5.30pm, Dec–Feb 8.30am–4.30pm; ¥550; 025 975 2311), a park on the bay’s north side. It’s possible to get even closer on the tour boats that make regular trips in summer (April–Nov) from TASSHA village (達者), 2km south; expect to pay around ¥800 for a thirty-minute trip in either a glass-bottomed “shark” boat or ordinary sightseeing (yūransen) boats.

As you continue north, the settlements gradually peter out and the scenery becomes wilder as you approach Ōno-game (大野亀), a 167m rock rising up from the ocean. From here, a pretty coastal pathway leads around to the island of Futatsu-game (二つ亀), linked to the mainland by a thin strip of black-sand beach. An intriguing cave along the path, Sai-no-Kawara (賽の河原), houses hundreds of jizō statues. In summer this area is popular for swimming and camping, but it’s worth coming at any time of year for the journey alone, especially if you return to Ryōtsu down the east coast, where you’re treated to further precariously twisting roads that cling to the base of the mountains as they plummet into the sea.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE THE NORTHERN CAPE

By bus Tassha and Ageshima-Yūen are on the Kaifu bus route (line 9) from Aikawa to Iwayaguchi, from where you can switch to the Uchikaifu line to Ryōtsu; services roughly hourly.

ACCOMMODATION

Sado Belle Mer Hostel 佐渡ベルメールユースホステル 369-4 Himezu 025 975 2011, sado.bellemer.jp. In a modern building on the hilltop near Ageshima-yūen, 9km north of Aikawa, this fine, family-run youth hostel has stunning views out over Senkaku Bay, and offers basic dorm rooms that can serve as private doubles for an extra ¥500 per person. Breakfast and dinner are available for ¥850 and ¥1550 per person respectively. Dorms ¥3900

Sotokaifu Youth Hostel 外海府ユースホステル 131 Iwayaguchi 025 978 2911, sotokaifu.jp. Far-flung hostel, in a typical village house in the fishing community of Iwayaguchi, 11km south of the cape and 36km north of Aikawa; the local bus will bring you right to the front door. Simple Japanese-style dorm rooms, plus, for ¥2060 per person, hearty local breakfasts and dinners (breakfast only ¥760). Dorms ¥4320

< Back to Central Honshū

Tim Draper

KINKAKU-JI

Kyoto and Nara

Kyoto

Around Kyoto

Nara

Around Nara

Kyoto and Nara

The former imperial capitals of Kyoto and Nara are home to a sublime collection of temples, palaces, shrines and gardens. Both cities are deeply revered in Japan for their imperial history, their highly developed traditional arts and centuries-old festivals. Yet each has its own distinct personality. Kyoto is notoriously exclusive, whereas Nara has a relaxed dignity; as a result, the two cities complement each other well, with Nara displaying the foundations of traditional Japanese culture, which reached its zenith in Kyoto.

Until Emperor Meiji decamped for the bright lights of Tokyo in 1868, Kyoto was Japan’s imperial capital, and despite modern trappings the city still represents a more traditional version of the country than the current capital. Kyoto maintains its reputation for cultural finesse – with its cuisine and traditional crafts – while fusing tradition with contemporary innovation. It’s a delight to explore the exquisite temples and gardens, as well as designer shops and stylish cafés. It’s also rewarding to spend at least a day in the surrounding districts; meander through rice fields in Ōhara or tea fields in Uji, or view the city from atop Hiei-zan, where the temples of Enryaku-ji are nestled in a cedar forest. Heading to the coast, you can view the "bridge to heaven" at Amanohashidate, and explore curious boathouses in Ine.

Before Kyoto even existed, the monks of Nara were busily erecting their great Buddhist monuments under the patronage of an earlier group of princes and nobles. In 2010, this relaxed, appealing town celebrated the 1300th anniversary of Heijō-kyō, the site close to the centre of modern-day Nara city where Japan’s first permanent capital was founded in the early eighth century. A surprising number of buildings survive – notably the great Tōdai-ji with its colossal bronze Buddha – but Nara’s real glory lies in its wealth of statues. Nowhere is this more evident than at the nearby temple complex of Hōryū-ji, a treasure-trove of early Japanese art.

Kyoto

京都

The capital of Japan for more than a thousand years, KYOTO is endowed with an almost overwhelming legacy of ancient Buddhist temples, majestic palaces and gardens of every size and description, not to mention some of the country’s most important works of art and most refined cuisine. For many people the very name Kyoto conjures up the classic image of Japan: streets of traditional wooden houses, the click-clack of geta (wooden sandals) on the paving stones, geisha passing in a flourish of brightly coloured silks, and temple pagodas surrounded by cherry blossom trees.

While you can still find all these things, and much more, first impressions of Kyoto can be disappointing. Decades of haphazard urban development and a conspicuous industrial sector have affected the city, eroding the distinctive characteristics of the townscape. However, current regulations limiting the height of new buildings and banning rooftop advertising indicate that more serious thought is being given to preserving Kyoto’s visual environment.

The vast amount of culture and history in Kyoto is mind-boggling, yet it’s possible to get a good feel for the city within a couple of days. Top priority should go to the eastern, Higashiyama, district, where the walk north from famous Kiyomizu-dera to Ginkaku-ji takes in a whole raft of fascinating temples, gardens and museums. It’s also worth heading for the northwestern hills to contemplate the superb Zen gardens of Daitoku-ji and Ryōan-ji, before taking in the wildly extravagant Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji. Also worth seeing are the imperial villas of Shūgaku-in Rikyū and Katsura Rikyū and the sensuous moss gardens of Saihō-ji, in the outer districts, and Arashiyama's many sumptuous temples and shrines (not to mention its Monkey Park). The highlight of the central sights is Nijō-jō, a lavishly decorated seventeenth-century palace, while nearby Nijō-jin’ya is an intriguing place riddled with secret passages and hidey-holes.

iStock

TERAMACHI-DŌRI

Highlights

Nishiki-kōji Experience the city’s food culture by strolling through “Kyoto’s kitchen” – as Nishiki market is known.

Kyoto’s machiya Stay, shop or dine in one of Kyoto’s narrow traditional wooden townhouses with inner gardens.

Kinkaku-ji Kyoto’s most elaborate Zen temple, the Golden Pavilion, was built as a retirement home for a fourteenth-century shogun and is a beautiful sight in any season.

Kyoto's café scene From industrial-chic coffee shops to retro kissaten, elegant teahouses to riverside terraces, Kyoto's café scene is a thriving combination of the traditional and the modern.

Uji’s green tea Visit the tea fields of Uji and harvest your own green tea. Later enjoy the sophisticated matcha salons of Kyoto and a traditional tea ceremony.

Ancient Nara In the historic capital city of Nara, see the monumental bronze Buddha at Tōdai-ji and wander the inner precincts of Kasuga Taisha, at the edge of a primeval forest.

Asuka Cycle around the picturesque village and explore ancient archeological sites where Japanese civilization began.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

KYOTO ORIENTATION

Kyoto is contained within a wide basin valley surrounded by hills on three sides and flanked by two rivers – the Katsura-gawa to the west and the smaller Kamo-gawa to the east. A grid street system makes this one of Japan’s easier cities to find your way around. The central district of banks, shops and the main tourist facilities lies between the Imperial Palace in the north and Kyoto Station to the south; Nijō-jō and Horikawa-dōri define the district’s western extent, while the Kamo-gawa provides a natural boundary to the east. Within this core, the downtown area is concentrated around Shijō-dōri and north along Kawaramachi-dōri to Oike-dōri. Shijō-dōri leads east over the Kamo-gawa into Gion, the city’s major entertainment district, and to the eastern hills, Higashiyama, which shelters many of Kyoto’s most famous temples. Much of this central area is best tackled on foot, but the city’s other sights are widely scattered. To the northwest, Kinkaku-ji and Ryōan-ji provide the focus for a second group of temples, while Arashiyama nestles between the Katsura-gawa and the western hills, and tucked away in the southwestern suburbs are the superb gardens of Saihō-ji and the Katsura Rikyū.

Take time to walk around the city’s old merchant quarters, too; one of the best is found in the central district, behind the department stores and modern shopping arcades north of Shijō-dōri. Across the river in Gion you’ll find the traditional crafts shops – selling everything from handmade bamboo blinds to geisha hair accessories – and the beautiful old ryokan for which the city is justifiably famous. It's not all temples and tradition, however; the Kyoto International Manga Museum, alongside an increasing number of designer shops and stylish cafés, are examples of Kyoto’s modern spirit, showing how the city manages to combine its heritage with contemporary culture.

Spring and autumn are undoubtedly the best times to visit Kyoto, though also extremely crowded; after a chilly winter, the cherry trees put on their finery in early April, while the hot, oppressive summer months (June–Aug) are followed in October by a delightful period of clear, dry weather when the maple trees erupt into fiery reds. While Kyoto has always been a major domestic tourism destination, in recent years the number of international visitors has surged dramatically. The city government is scrambling to increase accommodation facilities and provide more multilingual travel information. Local transportation services are strained, and it’s not unusual to have to queue to enter popular sightseeing spots or restaurants – though with so much of interest off the tourist trail, you can avoid the worst of the crowds with a little planning.

Brief history

Kyoto became the imperial capital in the late eighth century when Emperor Kammu relocated the court from Nara. His first choice was Nagaoka, southwest of today’s Kyoto, but a few inauspicious events led the emperor to move again in 794 AD. This time he settled on what was to become known as Heian-kyō, “Capital of Peace and Tranquillity”. Like Nara, the city was modelled on the Chinese Tang-dynasty capital Chang’an (today’s Xi’an), with a symmetrical north–south axis. By the late ninth century Heian-kyō was overflowing onto the eastern hills and soon had an estimated population of 500,000. In 894, imperial missions to China ceased and earlier borrowings from Chinese culture began to develop into distinct Japanese forms.

The city’s history from this point is something of a roller-coaster ride. In the late twelfth century a fire practically destroyed the whole place, but two centuries later the Ashikaga shoguns built some of the city’s finest monuments, among them the Golden and Silver Pavilions (Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji). Many of the great Zen temples were established at this time and the arts reached new levels of sophistication. Once again, however, almost everything was lost during the Ōnin War from 1467–77.

KYOTO ADDRESSES

In general, Kyoto addresses follow the same pattern as for the rest of Japan. There are, however, a few additional subtleties worth mastering. Unusually, most of the city’s main roads are named and the location of a place is generally described by reference to the nearest major junction. Since the land slopes gently south, the most usual indicator is whether a place lies north (agaru, “above”) or south (sagaru, “below”) of a particular east–west road. For example, Kawaramachi Sanjō simply means the place is near the intersection of Kawaramachi-dōri and Sanjō-dōri; Kawaramachi Sanjō-agaru tells you it’s north of Sanjō-dōri; Kawaramachi Sanjō-sagaru, that it’s to the south. At a higher level of sophistication, the address might also indicate whether a place lies east (higashi-iri) or west (nishi-iri) of the north–south road.

Kyoto’s golden era

Kyoto’s knight in shining armour was Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who came to power in 1582 and sponsored a vast rebuilding programme. The Momoyama period, as it’s now known, was a golden era of artistic and architectural ostentation, epitomized by Kyoto’s famous Kanō school of artists, who decorated the temples and palaces with sumptuous gilded screens. Even when Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the seat of government to Edo (now Tokyo) in 1603, Kyoto remained the imperial capital and stood its ground as the nation’s foremost cultural centre.

Meiji modernization

In 1788 another huge conflagration swept through the city, but worse was to come; in 1869 the new Emperor Meiji moved the court to Tokyo. Kyoto went into shock, and the economy floundered for a while. In the 1890s a canal was built from Biwa-ko to the city, and Kyoto, like the rest of Japan, embarked on a process of industrialization. Miraculously, the city narrowly escaped devastation at the end of World War II, when it was considered a potential target for the atom bomb. Kyoto was famously spared by American Defense Secretary Henry Stimson, who recognized the city’s supreme architectural and historical importance.

Preserving Kyoto’s heritage

After World War II, many of the city’s old buildings were sold for their land value and replaced by ugly concrete structures or car parks. Despite continued modernization, however, a more enthusiastic approach to strengthening the city’s traditional heritage is now being adopted by some of its residents, not least in efforts towards attracting foreign visitors. Many people are becoming interested in not only preserving but also developing this historical legacy, evidenced by the growing number of businesses set in traditional townhouses, or machiya .

Central Kyoto

The Imperial Palace is at the core of central Kyoto, just a short walk northeast of lavish Nijō-jō and the intriguing Nijō-jin’ya. Nearby, Kyoto’s downtown district is contained within the grid of streets bounded by Oike-dōri to the north, Shijō-dōri to the south, Karasuma-dōri to the west and the Kamo-gawa in the east. While there are few specific sights here, the backstreets still hide a number of traditional wooden buildings, including some of Kyoto’s best ryokan. You’ll also come across fine old craft shops among the boutiques and department stores, while the colourful shopping arcades of Teramachi-dōri and neighbouring Shinkyōgoku are worth a browse.

The Imperial Park and Palace

京都御苑, Kyōto Gyoen • 京都御所, Kyōto Gosho

Park open 24 hours a day • Palace grounds tours (in English) Tues–Sun 10am & 2pm; 50min • Free; guidebook ¥200 • Imadegawa subway, or bus to Karasuma Imadegawa • sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/guide/kyoto.html

Earthen walls enclose the verdant Imperial Park, or Kyoto Gyoen, inside which wide expanses of gravel and clipped lawns have replaced most of the former palaces and subsidiary buildings. It’s a popular spot for locals to picnic, exercise or walk the dog. Within the park, the Imperial Palace itself is by no means a high priority among Kyoto’s wealth of sights, but it’s a good idea to visit the Imperial Household Agency (IHA), in the park’s northwest corner, early in your stay to make arrangements for visiting the city’s more rewarding imperial villas and gardens.

The palace – the nation’s physical and spiritual centre before the emperor moved to Tokyo in 1868 – originally stood about 2km further west, at Nijō-jō, but was relocated to its present site in the late twelfth century. However, nearly all of the buildings date from the mid-nineteenth century and the overwhelming impression is rather monotonous – wide spaces of pure white gravel, set against austere Meiji-period replicas of Heian-style (794–1185) architecture. The most important building is the ceremonial Shishin-den (紫宸殿), flanked by two cherry and citrus trees, where the Meiji, Taishō and Shōwa emperors were all enthroned. Further on, you can peer inside the Seiryō-den (清涼殿), which was once the emperor’s private residence, while beyond there’s a tantalizing glimpse of a pond-filled stroll-garden designed by landscape gardener Kobori Enshū (1579–1647).

Sentō Gosho

仙洞御所 • In the southeast quadrant of the Imperial Park • Tours (in Japanese, with free English-language audio guide) Tues–Sun 9.30am, 11am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm & 3.30pm; 1hr • Free • Book tours in advance at the IHA office; bring your passport

A fine example of Kobori Enshū’s work can be seen by taking a guided tour of the Sentō Gosho garden (the only way to access it). Originally built as a retirement home for former emperors, the palace here burned down in 1854 and now only the peaceful garden remains. Apart from several graceful pavilions, its main features are a zigzag bridge – stunning when its wisteria is in full bloom – and a cobbled “seashore”, which lends the garden an extra grandeur.

Nijō-jō

二条城 • 541 Nijō-jō-chō, 1km southwest of the Imperial Park • Daily: July & Aug 8am–6pm; Sept 8am–5pm; Oct–June 8am–5pm; last entry 1hr before closing; closed Tues in Jan, July, Aug & Dec • Combined castle and palace \1030, castle ¥620 (or ¥520 if you have a bus or subway 1-day pass), gallery ¥200; audio guide ¥500 • Tours available • 075 841 0096, nijo-jocastle.city.kyoto.lg.jp • The main entrance is the East Gate on Horikawa-dōri, near Nijō-jō-mae subway station and bus stop

APPLICATIONS TO VISIT RESTRICTED SIGHTS

To visit some of Kyoto’s most famous palaces and gardens it’s necessary to apply in advance. Usually this is a fairly simple procedure if timed well, and is certainly worth the effort. Tours of Sentō Gosho, Katsura Rikyū and Shūgaku-in Rikyū are all handled by the Imperial Household Agency office, 3 Kyōtogyoen, Kamigyō-ku (IHA; Mon–Fri 8.45am–noon & 1–4pm; 075 211 1215), on the west side of the Imperial Park, near Imadegawa subway station.

There are two ways to apply in advance: in person at the IHA office, or online. As the application procedure is updated fairly frequently, it's best to check online ahead of your trip ( sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/multilingual/lang/en/information.html) for the latest information. Note that tour participants must be 18 years or older. Don’t forget to take your passport with you to the office, and also for the tour itself.

You may be able to take a chance and turn up at the attraction before 11am on the day to see if there are places available. However, due to the large volume of tourists wanting to visit these sights it is strongly recommended that you book in advance.

Other sights in Kyoto that require reservations in advance are Nijō-jin’ya and Saihō-ji.

THE KAMO-GAWA

Running through central Kyoto, the Kamo-gawa (鴨川) is a much-loved hangout for Kyoto’s inhabitants, who flock to its banks for exercise and relaxation. The Sanjō bridge area is very popular with the city’s youth, and buskers occasionally perform here to large crowds. From late spring the river’s western bank between Shijō bridge and Ōike bridge is covered with yuka (wooden platforms that extend out from the restaurants of Pontochō), which catch the cooling river breezes during humid summers. The river has an eventful history: Izumo no Okuni developed Kabuki theatre here in 1603, and in 1619 the “Martyrs of Kyoto”, more than fifty Christians including women and children, were burned alive on the riverbank. The river was also used for hundreds of years to rinse out kimono fabric that had been dyed using the kyō-yūzen hand-dyeing technique. By the early 1990s it was very polluted, but at the end of the decade the city government undertook a rejuvenation programme; now, all 35km of the river and its surroundings support an abundance of bird and plant life.

The swaggering opulence of Nijō-jō provides a complete contrast to imperial understatement. Built as the Kyoto residence of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616), the castle’s double moats, massive walls and watchtowers demonstrate the supreme confidence of his new, Tokyo-based military government. Inside, the finest artists of the day filled the palace with sumptuous gilded screens and carvings, the epitome of Momoyama style, leaving the increasingly impoverished emperor in no doubt as to where power really lay. The castle was built in 1603 and took 23 years to complete, paid for by local daimyō, but Nijō-jō was never used in defence and was rarely visited by a shogun after the mid-1600s.

After entering through the East Gate, head to the Ninomaru Palace (二の丸御殿), whose five buildings face onto a lake-garden and run in a staggered line connected by covered corridors. Look out for the “nightingale floors” which squeak when trodden on. Each room is lavishly decorated with replicas of screen paintings by the brilliant Kanō school of artists, notably Kanō Tanyū and Naonobu. You can view the actual screens in a separate gallery to the north of the main gate.

Nijō-jō is currently in the middle of an ambitious restoration programme. Ninomaru Palace is scheduled to be closed between 2022–25, after the 2021 completion of work on the Honmaru-Goten Palace.

Nijō-jin’ya

二条陣屋 • 137 Sanbō Ōmiya-chō • Tours in Japanese Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am, 11am, 2pm & 3pm; non-Japanese-speakers will need an interpreter (volunteer information on website); 1hr • ¥1000 • 075 841 0972, nijyojinya.net/English.html • Advance reservations only – book by phone (in Japanese) one day beforehand

The mysterious Nijō-jin’ya was built in the early seventeenth century as an inn for feudal lords who came to pay homage to the emperor. As these were days of intrigue and treachery, it is riddled with trap doors, false walls and ceilings, escape hatches, disguised staircases and confusing dead ends to trap intruders. It is owned by the Ogawa family and is a private residence, hence the strict rules for touring the house. The structure is a fascinating example of traditional craftsmanship – it’s worth organizing an interpreter for the tour (whose entry fee you'll need to pay) so that you can learn more about Nijō-jin’ya’s clever safeguards against intruders. That said, bear in mind that the interpreters are all volunteers, so the level of English varies widely – it's best to research the house a little in advance, so you know the best bits to look out for.

Kyoto International Manga Museum

京都国際マンガミュージアム, Kyōto Kokusai Manga Myūjiamu • Karasuma-Oike, Kanafuki-chō • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm • ¥800 • 075 254 7414, kyotomm.jp/en

The excellent Kyoto International Manga Museum recently celebrated its tenth anniversary as the world’s first museum entirely devoted to Japanese comics. A joint project between Kyoto City and Seika University, it’s housed in an old elementary school, which has been remodelled to accommodate the huge, all-encompassing collection of popular manga, as well as provide plenty of space for art workshops (held sporadically at weekends and in summer) to teach the techniques of manga, and international conferences to discuss research. The great thing about the museum is that most of the manga can be taken outside and read on the lawn, and there is also an international section with some English-language manga.

Museum of Kyoto

京都文化博物館, Kyōto Bunka Hakubutsukan • 623-1 Higashikata-machi • Tues–Sun 10am–7.30pm; special exhibitions usually 10am–6pm; check the website for screening times of Japanese classic movies • ¥500, film screenings ¥500 • 075 222 0888, bunpaku.or.jp/en

In a trendy area of shops and cafés, the Museum of Kyoto incorporates a Meiji-era bank building and a replica Edo-period shopping street with craft shops and some reasonable restaurants. The museum’s exhibits focus mainly on local history, culture and modern crafts, with some interesting historical dioramas. There is little detailed explanation about the exhibits in Japanese or English, though there are sometimes volunteer guides available. Check out the small section on Kyoto’s film industry, which is enlivened by monthly screenings of classic movies (in Japanese).

Pontochō

先斗町

Running parallel to the west side of the Kamo-gawa between Sanjō and Shijō bridges, the geisha district of Pontochō is packed with teahouses, restaurants and bars – many of which are built in traditional wooden machiya. It’s best visited at night, when lantern light fills the district’s narrow lanes and you can often catch a glimpse of a geisha or trainee maiko on her way to an appointment – though you'll mostly see other tourists, shuffling down the narrow alley. In July and August, Pontochō restaurants open wooden yuka terraces over the cooling Kamo-gawa, making Kyoto’s sweltering summer nights a little more bearable.

Nishiki-kōji

錦小路通 • Parallel to Shijō-dori, one block north • Daily 9am–6pm, but varies from shop to shop • kyoto-nishiki.or.jp

Known as “Kyoto’s kitchen”, Nishiki-kōji has been one of the city’s main fish and vegetable markets since the early seventeenth century. The tantalizing smells of fresh tofu, grilled fish and all kinds of pickled, fermented and dried Kyō-yasai (Kyoto vegetables) will greet you in this narrow covered alley. There are more than a hundred small shops here, many offering samples to taste, as well as plenty of restaurants.

Kyoto Seishū Netsuke Art Museum

京都清宗根付館, Kyōto Seishū Netsuke-kan • 46-1 Mibukayōgosho-chō • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥1000 • 075 802 7000, netsukekan.jp • 10min walk southwest of Hankyu Ōmiya or Keifuku Shijō-Ōmiya stations

The fascinating Kyoto Seishū Netsuke Art Museum is home to a private collection of netsuke – hand-carved objects traditionally used for hanging pouches from obi sashes. These miniature pieces of art were originally made from ivory and mainly depict people and animals, as well as natural objects such as fruit and flowers. The antique and contemporary netsuke are displayed here over two floors of an old samurai mansion that has been beautifully restored.

Around Kyoto Station

Historically, the principal entrance to Kyoto lay through its great southern gate, so it’s only fitting that this district, south of the city centre, should be home to the monumental Kyoto Station, the entry point for most visitors to the city. Opposite the station is Kyoto Tower, which can clearly be seen throughout the city and makes a useful landmark when walking around. This area is also home to some of the city’s more venerable temples – in their day, when their massive wooden halls were filled with shimmering gold, Nishi-Hongan-ji and Higashi-Hongan-ji were probably just as awe-inspiring as the modern train station. Across the tracks, Tō-ji boasts Japan’s tallest original wooden pagoda and some of the city’s oldest surviving buildings.

Kyoto Station

京都駅, Kyoto-eki • Karasuma Shichijō-sagaru • kyotostation.com

The city’s main transport hub – where the JR, Kintetsu and Kyoto subway lines meet – Kyoto Station was rebuilt and enlarged in the 1990s by Tokyo architect Hara Hiroshi. The new building was initially the source of much local consternation, but over time many people have come to appreciate its shiny black bulk. Uncompromisingly modern, with its marble exterior and giant central archway, the station building also houses the Isetan department store, restaurants and underground shopping malls, hotels and a theatre.

Kyoto Tower

京都タワー • Karasuma Shichijō-sagaru • Observatory daily 9am–9.20pm • ¥800 • 075 361 3215, keihanhotels-resorts.co.jp/kyoto-tower/en

The tallest structure in Kyoto, the 131m-high Kyoto Tower was built in the 1960s and caused controversy at the time for its modern design. The tower’s flying saucer-like observatory provides fantastic panoramic views, which give you a good understanding of the city’s geography – on a clear day you can even see parts of Osaka. The tower houses a hotel, restaurants, bars and even a sentō (public bath).

Nishi-Hongan-ji

西本願寺 • Hanaya-chō-sagaru • Daily 5.30am–5pm • Free • 075 371 5181, hongwanji.or.jp/english • 5min walk from Kyoto Station, on the west side of Horikawa-dōri

The vast temple complex of Nishi-Hongan-ji is the headquarters of the Jōdo Shinshū sect. Compared to other Kyoto temples, Nishi-Hongan-ji is relatively crowd-free and has a pleasant atmosphere. The gravel courtyard contains two huge halls, the older being the Founder’s Hall, Goeidō (御影堂), built in 1636, and located on the left as you enter through the gate. The temple is dedicated to Shinran and was fairly recently restored. The Amida Hall (阿弥陀堂) dates from 1760. Both are decked with gold, including screens by Kanō artists in the Amida Hall. The temple’s real highlights, the even more ornate Shoin (書院) and Kuro-shoin Chambers (黒書院), are only open to guided tours – ask in the green-roofed building, to the left of the Goeidō.

Higashi-Hongan-ji

東本願寺 • Karasuma Shichijō-sagaru • Temple Daily: March–Oct 5.50am–5.30pm; Nov–Feb 6.20am–4.30pm • Free • Garden Daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4pm • ¥500 • 075 371 5181, higashihonganji.or.jp/english • 5min walk from Kyoto Station, on the west side of Karasuma-dōri

Though Higashi-Hongan-ji was constructed in a similar style to its neighbour and rival, Nishi-Hongan-ji, it had to be completely rebuilt after a fire in 1864, and today only the two main halls are open to the public. The first hall, the Goeidō (御影堂), is one of Japan’s largest wooden buildings – when it was built, ordinary ropes proved too weak to lift the massive roof beams, so female devotees from around the country sent in enough hair to plait 53 ropes. You can see an example of these black ropes preserved in the open corridor that connects the Goeidō to the Amida Hall (阿弥陀堂), with its image of Amida on an elaborate altar. Two blocks further east, the temple’s shady garden, Shōsei-en (渉成園), provides a welcome respite from the surrounding city blocks, with teahouses, as well as stone and wooden bridges over a pond brimming with carp.

Tō-ji

東寺 • 1 Kujō-chō • Prices and entry fees vary, so check the website for exact dates • Daily: mid-March to mid-April 8.30am–4.30pm; mid-April to mid-Sept 8.30am–5pm; mid-Sept to mid-March 8.30am–4pm • ¥500–1300 • Sakura season illuminations Daily 6.30–9.30pm • ¥500 • 075 691 3325, toji.or.jp/en • 10min walk southwest of Kyoto Station

Founded by Emperor Kammu in 794, the historic temple of Tō-ji contains some of Japan’s finest esoteric Buddhist sculpture and its lovely pagoda is one of the symbols of Kyoto. The best time to visit is during the monthly flea market, held on the 21st of each month, when Tō-ji is thronged with pilgrims, hustlers and bargain hunters.

JŌDO SHINSHŪ

One of Japan’s most popular and wealthy Buddhist sects, the Jōdo Shinshū (True Pure Land) was founded by the Kyoto-born priest Shonin Shinran (1173–1262). His simple creed, which at the time was regarded as heresy, asserts that merely chanting the nembutsu, “Praise to Amida Buddha”, can lead to salvation. Not surprisingly, the sect grew rapidly, despite opposition from the established hierarchy, until eventually Toyotomi Hideyoshi granted them a plot of land in southern Kyoto in 1591 – today, this is Nishi-Hongan-ji. By 1602, Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu was sufficiently alarmed at the sect’s power to sponsor a splinter group, which came to be based at Higashi-Hongan-ji, now just a few hundred metres to the east of Nishi-Hongan-ji. Even today, the two groups continue to differ over doctrinal affairs.

After the problems in Nara, Emperor Kammu permitted only two Buddhist temples within the city walls: Tō-ji and Sai-ji, the East and West temples, which stood either side of Rashō-mon, the main entrance to eighth-century Heian-kyō. While Sai-ji eventually faded, Tō-ji prospered under Kōbō Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, who was granted the stewardship of the temple in 823. Over the centuries, the temple gathered a treasure-trove of calligraphy, paintings and Buddhist statuary, the oldest of which were supposedly brought from China by Daishi himself.

Tō-ji’s most distinctive feature is the five-storey Gojū-no-tō (五重塔), Japan’s tallest pagoda. Erected in 826 and last rebuilt in the mid-seventeenth century, it now stands in an enclosure alongside Tō-ji’s greatest treasures, the Kō-dō (講堂) and more southerly Kon-dō (金堂). These buildings both date from the early seventeenth century, but it’s the images inside, such as Heian-period Buddhist statues, that are the focus. Visitors can see inside the pagoda (ground floor only) at a few points in the year, but usually only the outside.

The Miei-dō (御影堂), or Founder’s Hall, is said to be where Kōbō Daishi lived. The present building, erected in 1380, houses a thirteenth-century statue of him, which can be seen monthly on the 21st, the day that marks the entry of the Daishi into Nirvana, when hundreds of pilgrims queue up to pay their respects. Beyond the Miei-dō, the modern Hōmotsu-kan (宝物館) contains Tō-ji’s remaining treasures, including priceless mandala, portraits of Daishi and a 6m-tall Senju Kannon (thousand-armed Buddhist Goddess of Mercy), carved in 877. The museum – along with the Shōshibō, a small building with beautiful in-situ ink painted and gilded screens, plus a tranquil garden – opens for two seasons (spring and autumn), with different exhibitions each time.

Tōfuku-ji

東福寺 • 778 Honmachi • Daily: April–Oct 9am–4.30pm; Nov–late Dec 8.30am–4.30pm; late Dec–March 9am–4pm • Garden ¥400, bridge & Kaisan-dō ¥400 • tofukuji.jp • Bus #202, #207 or #208 from central or eastern Kyoto, or JR Nara-line trains to Tōfuku-ji Station; the temple is a short walk east, across a busy road

Tōfuku-ji, a Zen temple, is most often visited during autumn, when the colours of the momiji (maple) leaves in the grounds provide a spectacular array of red and gold. The best place to view this classic scene is from the wooden Tsūten-kyō (Bridge to Heaven). The temple is part of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism and was founded in 1236. This large, sprawling complex with 23 sub-temples is significant not only for its medieval temple architecture – the two-storey San-mon gate, built in 1425, is the oldest example of Zen gate architecture still in existence – but also for its gardens. Revolutionary twentieth-century gardener Mirei Shigemori designed and installed the gardens around the Hōjō (main hall) in 1939, and his work here is considered to be a great example of contemporary Japanese garden design, creating abstract shapes with moss and gravel. His interpretation of the traditional Zen raked gravel garden is also interesting – lots of extra swirls and coned peaks.

East Kyoto

If you only have one day in Kyoto, it’s best to concentrate on the wealth of temples and museums lining the eastern hills. Not only does this district include many of Kyoto’s more rewarding sights, but it’s also fairly compact and contains attractive lanes and traditional houses set against the wooded slopes behind. If you’re pushed for time, head straight for Kiyomizu-dera, with its distinctive wooden terrace, and then follow cobbled Sannen-zaka north. Gion, the famous entertainment district traditionally associated with geisha and teahouses, has retained a surprising number of wooden facades and photogenic corners, though its seductive charms are best savoured after dark. Garden lovers should also arrange to visit Shūgaku-in Rikyū on the northeast edge of Kyoto, for its inspired use of borrowed scenery on a grand scale – you’ll need to allow a half-day for this.

Fushimi-Inari Taisha

伏見稲荷大社 • 68 Yabunochi-chō • Daily 24 hours • Free • 075 641 7331, inari.jp • JR Nara-line trains to Inari Station, or Keihan line to Fushimi-Inari Station; from eastern Kyoto, bus #202, #207 or #208 to Tōfuku-ji Station then a train to JR Inari or Keihan Fushimi-Inari Station; it’s a short walk east from either station

Fushimi district is an attractive area of low-rise streets lined with wooden houses, a great spot for a leisurely bike ride, and famous for its sake production. The main reason to visit, though, is for the spectacularly photogenic Fushimi-Inari Taisha, about 2.5km southeast of Kyoto Station, the head shrine of the Inari cult, dedicated to the god of rice and sake. In 711, the local Hata clan established a shrine on top of Inari-san, the mountain, although this was eventually moved in the ninth century to the site of the current sanctuary at the foot of the mountain. Don’t linger down here too long though – the real highlight is the 4km maze of paths that wind their way up through the forest to the summit of the mountain. More than 10,000 vermilion torii frame the paths, forming a mysterious tunnel that in some places cuts out most light, even on the brightest days. These painted wooden gates are replaced every ten years, each one an offering by local and national companies asking for success in business – the black lettering on each gate indicates the company that has donated it. Dozens of sub-shrines line the route, with hundreds of thousands of miniature wooden gates hanging from every available space, flanked by stone foxes, which are believed to be the messengers of the rice gods. It’s quite a steep climb up to the top, but you’ll be rewarded with great views of Kyoto, and along the way you can stop for tea and grab some inari-zushi – rice balls in pockets of fried tofu.

Once you've descended the mountain, take a sharp left immediately after exiting the main tunnel of torii and you'll find yourself on a quiet, forested trail. After around ten to fifteen minutes, this will turn into a photogenic path through a bamboo grove – a less impressive but much quieter alternative to the overtouristed one in Arashiyama.

Sanjūsangen-dō

三十三間堂 • 657 Sanjūsangendōmawari-chō, south of Shichijō-dōri • Daily: April–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–March 9am–4pm • ¥600 • 075 561 0467, sanjusangendo.jp • Raku bus #100, or city buses #206 and #208

The ranks of 1001 gilded Buddhist statues inside Sanjūsangen-dō, on the southeastern edge of Kyoto, are a truly memorable sight. After passing through the turnstiles, turn right and leave your shoes in the porch; a short corridor takes you to the northern end of the hall. At first, the impassive, haloed figures appear as identical images of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, usually portrayed with eleven heads and a thousand arms. But they all have subtle differences in their faces, clothes and jewellery, and in the symbols held in their tiny, outstretched hands. Rather than a thousand arms, the statues have been given only forty apiece (excluding the two hands in prayer), but each of these can save 25 worlds. In addition, every figure represents 33 incarnations, giving a total of 33,033 Kannon to help save mankind.

The statues were commissioned by the devout Emperor Go-Shirakawa in 1164, during the bloody Genpei Wars, and were carved by some seventy craftsmen under the direction of the renowned sculptor Tankei (c.1173–1256). He completed the central, seated Kannon at the age of 82, and several of the superb images along the front row are also attributed to him. Of these, 28 are disciples of Kannon, while Fūjin and Raijin, the muscular gods of Wind and Thunder, bring up the two ends. Unfortunately, many of the original statues were lost in a fire in 1249, but 156 Kannon and the head of the main image were saved, and by 1266 a replica hall had been completed with the Kannon back up to full strength. In the early seventeenth century, the west veranda of the 188m-long hall became a popular place for samurai to practise their archery. This developed into a competition, Tōshiya, in which archers had to fire arrows from a squatting position along the length of the building without hitting a pillar. Nowadays, the event is commemorated with an archery display outside the hall on or around January 15.

Kyoto National Museum

京都国立博物館, Kyōto Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan • 527 Chaya-machi • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥530, not including special exhibitions (usually over ¥1000) • 075 525 2473, www.kyohaku.go.jp

Immediately across Shichijō-dōri from Sanjūsangen-dō is the southern entrance to the Kyoto National Museum, Kyoto’s major art museum and the venue for important special exhibitions. The vast permanent collection, with 12,500 works covering Kyoto culture from prehistory up to 1868, is held in the new Heisei Chishinkan wing, and is organized by genre. The museum’s original Meiji Kotokan hall, built in 1895, hosts special exhibitions. Many of the items on display, including textiles, calligraphy and metalwork, are exquisite national treasures. The ground-floor sculpture gallery stands out for its design and collection of Heian and Kamakura period pieces.

Kawai Kanjirō’s House

河井寛次郎記念館, Kawai Kanjirō Kinen-kan • 569 Kanei-chō • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; closed Aug 11–20 & Dec 24–Jan 7 • ¥900 • 075 561 3585, kanjiro.jp • Turn west off Higashiōji-dori shortly before the Gojō-dōri flyover

If you are interested in Japanese folk crafts, then drop in at Kawai Kanjirō’s House, the tastefully rustic home of the innovative potter Kawai Kanjirō (1890–1966), who helped revive mingei (folk crafts) in the 1930s. The house is as he left it, beautifully furnished with ceramics and sculptures from his long career, including the kilns where many of these pieces were made, as well as personal items, such as his opium pipe.

Kiyomizu-dera

清水寺 • 294-1 Kiyomizu • Daily 6am–6pm; sometimes open until 9pm for night viewings; Jishu-jinja daily 9am–5pm • ¥400; tainai-meguri ¥100 • kiyomizudera.or.jp/en • The closest bus stops are Kiyomizu-michi or Gojō-zaka on Higashiōji-dōri, on routes #100 (Raku bus), #202, #206 & #207

With its trademark wooden platform overhanging the valley, Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s defining sights. There’s been a temple here since 778, when a visionary priest came across its fount of clear water (kiyo-mizu); however, nearly all the buildings you see today date from 1633. Just north of the Gojō-dōri flyover a right fork brings you to Chawan-zaka (茶わん坂), a quiet lane lined with shops selling local pottery, which leads up to the temple. If you’d rather use the traditional approach, continue on to Kiyomizu-zaka (清水坂), where you’ll find a colourful, crowded parade of souvenir shops and craft galleries.

Hon-dō

本堂

Beyond the three-storey pagoda, you can step for a moment into the monumental Hon-dō (Main Hall) to enjoy its surprisingly peaceful interior. There’s little to actually see in here – its principal image, an eleven-headed Kannon, only goes on show every 33 years (next time will be 2033), so head for the wide terrace in front, originally a stage for sacred dances, to soak up the famous view over the wooded gorge and Kyoto beyond.

SANNEN-ZAKA AND NINEN-ZAKA

Two charming cobbled lanes connect Kiyomizu-dera with Kōdai-ji. Known as Sannen-zaka (三年坂; “Three-Year Slope”) and Ninen-zaka (二年坂; “Two-Year Slope”), these lanes preserve some of the last vestiges of the old Kyoto townscape. There has been a path here since the ninth century, while the two-storey wooden townhouses date from the late 1800s. Many of these buildings still cater to passing pilgrims and souvenir hunters in time-honoured fashion, peddling Kiyomizu pottery, bamboo-ware, pickles and refreshments – look out for Hyōtan-ya, at the bottom of the steps at the Kiyomizu-dera end, which has been selling gourd flasks (hyōtan) for two hundred years. Be careful walking along these two lanes, though: according to popular belief, a fall here brings two or three years of bad luck.

Jishu-jinja

地主神社主

On the hill behind the Hon-dō a jumble of shrine buildings competes for the attention of people looking for luck in love. Jishu-jinja is dedicated to several Shintō gods, of whom the most popular is Okuninushi-no-mikoto, an ancient deity in charge of love and good marriages; his messenger is a rabbit. To test your current love life, try walking in a straight line between the two “blind stones”, set 18m apart, with your eyes closed and intoning your partner’s name. If you arrive at the other stone without erring, all is well.

Otowa waterfall

音羽の瀧, Otowa-no-taki

At the base of the wooden terrace, the Otowa waterfall is reputed to have magical powers if you drink its waters. There are three separate streams, each of which grants a different wish – success, health or beauty – though it’s considered bad luck to sip from more than one. From the waterfall you can follow a short path up the opposite hillside from where you get the best views of Kiyomizu-dera.

Zuigu-dō

随求堂

Near the entrance to Kiyomizu-dera, Zuigu-dō is fairly unremarkable except for the tainai-meguri, a similar experience to the famous o-kaidan at Nagano's Zenkō-ji. You follow a set of steps down into the sanctified area under the hall, which is kept in pitch darkness. Holding onto a rope will lead you safely to a sacred stone, after which you emerge blinking into the light outside, signifying your rebirth.

Kōdai-ji

高台時 • 526 Shimokawara-chō • Daily 9am–5.30pm; sometimes open until 10pm for night illuminations • ¥600 • kodaiji.com

At the north end of the cobbled lanes of Ninen-zaka, walk straight ahead up the steps and through the car park to find the entrance to the peaceful gardens of Kōdai-ji. This temple was granted to Kita-no-Mandokoro, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, when she became a nun after his death in 1598. Kōdai-ji owes its finery, however, to the generosity of Hideyoshi’s successor, Tokugawa Ieyasu, who donated buildings from his own castles and financed paintings by Kanō artists, before he wiped out the Toyotomi dynasty at Osaka in 1615. Nowadays, the temple buildings blend beautifully into their attractive hillside garden, its two ponds graced by a moon-viewing pavilion and the aptly named “Reclining Dragon Corridor”, a covered walkway with a sloping roof. Between the ponds, check out the ceilings of the pretty Kaisan-dō, which are made from recycled panels from Ieyasu’s ship and from the carriage of Kita-no-Mandokoro. The temple’s most important building lies at the top of the Reclining Dragon Corridor (though you have to walk round by a path), where statues of Hideyoshi and his widow are enshrined. The exquisite gold-inlay lacquer work is among the finest of its kind in Japan.

Chion-in

知恩院 • 400 Rinka-cho • Daily: 9am–4.30pm (last admission 3.50pm); occasionally open later for night viewings • Hall & gardens ¥500 • 075 531 2111, chion-in.or.jp

On the northern edge of Maruyama-kōen public park is the temple of Chion-in, a big, busy complex where everything is built on a monumental scale, starting with the huge San-mon (三門) gate. Founded in 1175 by the priest Hōnen, the temple is the headquarters of his popular Jōdo (Pure Land) sect of Buddhism. Behind the cavernous Miei-dō (御影堂), the main hall, red arrows lead to the entrance of the Ōhōjō and Kohōjō halls and gardens representing Amida’s paradise. The main feature of both halls is the Momoyama-period screens that fill them; since you can only peer in, they’ve placed replicas of the screens in a room behind the ticket desk – the most famous features a cat with uncannily lifelike eyes. The colossal Daishō-rō (大鐘楼), the biggest bell in Japan, is located at the back≈of≈the complex; at New Year it takes seventeen priests to ring this 67-tonne≈monster.

Shōren-in

青蓮院 • 69-1 Sanjobo-cho • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 075 561 2345, shorenin.com

North of the bustling Chion-in, Shōren-in is a quiet little place surrounded by pleasant gardens and ancient camphor trees. The temple started life in the ninth century as lodgings for Tendai-sect priests from Enryaku-ji and later served as a residence for members of the imperial family. After the collection of painted screens, the main reason to come here is to stroll along the paths that wind through the beautifully landscaped hillside garden. If you have the stamina, don’t miss the steep climb up to Seiryū-den (青龍殿); perched on the top of the ridge behind Shōren-in, this small sub-temple has fine views of central and northern Kyoto from a wooden observation deck.

Yasaka-jinja

八坂神社 • 625 Gion-machi Kitagawa • Daily 24hr • Free • 075 561 6155, yasaka-jinja.or.jp

The main entrance to the lively shrine of Yasaka-jinja faces west onto the intersection of Higashiōji-dōri and Shijō-dōri. Instead of the usual torii, you enter through a brightly coloured Buddhist-style gate. Located on the southern edge of Maruyama-kōen and the eastern edge of Gion, Yasaka-jinja is at the heart of many Kyoto cultural events – from cherry blossom viewing in spring, which brings thousands to the park, to the spectacular Gion Matsuri in July and the high-spirited celebrations of New Year. Because of its role as the guardian shrine of Gion, many geisha-related ceremonies are conducted here too.

GION MATSURI

Each July, Yasaka-jinja hosts one of Kyoto’s biggest spectacles, the Gion Matsuri (祇園祭; gionfestival.com). This festival is one of the oldest in the world, and, except for wars and one case of interference from the shogunate, it has been held annually since 970. Lasting from July 1 to July 29, Gion Matsuri is more like a series of mini-festivals, with the highlight being the July 17 Yamahoko Junkō – a grand procession of 32 floats decorated with Silk Road treasures. The procession’s traditional, ancient route, however, has had to be altered in the postwar era to avoid present-day obstacles such as power lines.

THE GEISHA OF KYOTO

Often mistakenly considered by foreigners to be high-class prostitutes, geisha (which means “practitioner of the arts”) are in fact refined women who entertain customers with their various accomplishments, such as singing, dancing, conversation and playing a traditional instrument such as a shamisen (three-string banjo). In Kyoto, geisha are called geiko, which literally means “child of the arts”. Foreign-language conversation skills are also becoming important, as a result of the increase in overseas visitors to the hanamachi (“flower towns”), where geisha live and work.

It takes five years for an apprentice geisha – known as a maiko – to master her art, training with the same focus and dedication as an Olympic athlete in the various arts, and living according to a strict code of dress and deportment. From a pre-World War II peak of eighty thousand there are now reckoned to be no more than a few thousand geisha left, the majority concentrated in Kyoto, the centre of the tradition. Though few fifteen-year-olds are tempted to sign up as apprentices, the internet is beginning to change this – some geisha houses have established websites to recruit apprentices, with successful results.

It’s also becoming more common to be able to meet and talk to geisha and maiko in person. Many hotels and ryokan now offer exclusive dinner shows, where it is possible to experience a little of the elegant yet fun entertainment that has until recently been the exclusive playground of wealthy male customers. There are also walking tours that provide a chance to learn more about geisha culture. Don’t be fooled by daylight groups of “geisha” in Kyoto tourist spots: they are likely to be visitors who have paid for the chance to wear the distinctive make-up, wig and costume for a couple of hours. If you are lucky enough to see a real geisha or maiko in one of the hanamachi, be respectful – being harassed by camera-toting tourists should not be part of her job description. If you'd like a picture then ask politely, but bear in mind that she's likely on her way to an appointment. Chasing after her for a snap might well annoy other locals, too; in 2019, some Gion streets started levying fines for photos on private property, in an effort to encourage tourists to be a bit more thoughtful in the area.

Japan Kanji Museum

漢字ミュージアム, Kanji Myūjiamu • 551 Gion-machi Minamigawa • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • ¥800 • 075 757 8686, www.kanjimuseum.kyoto

The Japan Kanji Museum is devoted to the history and culture of Kanji, the Chinese characters that were introduced into the Japanese writing system in the fifth century. Apart from an interesting exhibit on the “Kanji of the Year” – showing the character that represents the annual situation of Japan – the museum currently has very few English explanations, though there are plans to change this.

Kennin-ji

建仁寺 • 584 Komatsu- chō • Daily: March–Oct 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 075 561 6363, kenninji.jp

Tucked away behind the bustling streets and teahouses of Gion is Kennin-ji, Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple. Founded in 1202 by the priest Yōsai (also called Eisai), who is also recognised as having introduced tea drinking to Japan, Kennin-ji belongs to the Rinzai sect. Of note are its two remarkably different gardens: the Chō-ontei (潮音庭), complete with moss and maple trees; and a modern-looking square rock garden based on the calligraphy of a circle, triangle and square. Don’t miss the fantastic painting of two dragons on the ceiling of the Hattō hall, created in 2002 for the temple’s 800th anniversary.

Gion entertainment district

祇園花街, Gion Hanamachi

The area around Shijō-dōri, east of the Kamo-gawa and west of Yasaka-jinja, is known as the Gion entertainment district. Its narrow lanes, which lead off to the north and south of Shijō-dōri, contain dozens of traditional teahouses and geisha houses, as well as modern bars and nightclubs. Historically, the area grew into a vibrant pleasure quarter as the teahouses, kabuki theatres and geisha performers flourished. By the middle of the eighteenth century, Gion was Kyoto’s largest “floating world” (as the urban, pleasure-seeking culture of the Edo period was known), and you can still get a flavour of this if you walk south along picturesque Hanamikōji-dōri, where many of the lovely wooden buildings function as exclusive teahouses with geisha holding court. It’s best after dark when red lanterns hang outside each secretive doorway, allowing the occasional glimpse down a stone-flagged entranceway; early evening is also a good time to spot geisha and trainee maiko arriving at the teahouses for an appointment.

Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō

祇園甲部歌舞練場 • Near the south end of Hanamikōji-dōri • Gion Corner performances 6pm & 7pm: March–Nov daily; Dec–Feb Fri–Sun • March–June ¥3150, July–Feb ¥2500 • 075 561 1119, kyoto-gioncorner.com

The Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō theatre is the nightly venue for a touristy sampler of traditional arts known as Gion Corner (ギオンコーナー), which includes maiko dancing. Though it’s far better to spend a little extra to see the real thing, this is an easy opportunity to watch brief extracts of court dance, bunraku puppet theatre, slapstick kyōgen, demonstrations of ikebana (flower arranging) and a tea ceremony. English-language guided commentary is available to rent at the entrance. During April’s Miyako Odori the theatre also hosts local geisha giving performances of traditional dance (English Earphone Guide ¥500).

Shinbashi

新橋

Gion north of Shijō-dōri consists mainly of high-rise blocks packed with clubs, bars and restaurants. But walk up Kiritoshi, one block west of Hanamikōji-dōri, and you eventually emerge into another area of teahouses, known as Shinbashi. Although it comprises just two short streets, the row of slatted facades reflected in the willow-lined Shirakawa Canal makes a delightful scene, day or night.

Minami-za

南座 • Shijō-Ōhashi Higashi-zume • Opening times depend on the performance schedule; tickets can be bought at the box office or on the website; English Earphone Guide ¥700 • 057 000 0489, kabukiweb.net/theatres/minamiza

One of the most distinctive buildings in Gion, on the corner overlooking the Kamo-gawa, is the Minami-za. This famous kabuki theatre, the oldest in Japan, was established in the early seventeenth century, though last rebuilt in 1929. Kabuki has been an integral part of Gion life since the late sixteenth century when a female troupe started performing religious dances on the riverbanks. Eventually this evolved into an equally popular, all-male theatre, patronized by an increasingly wealthy merchant class. In December Minami-za is the venue for a major kabuki festival featuring Japan’s most celebrated actors.

Heian-jingū

平安神宮 • Nishi Tenno-chō • Shrine Daily: Mid-Feb to mid-March & Oct 6am–5.30pm; mid-March to Sept 6am–6pm; Nov to mid-Feb 6am–5pm • Free • Gardens Daily: March–Sept 8.30am–5.30pm; Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–Feb 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥600 • 075 761 0221, heianjingu.or.jp • 10min walk north of Higashiyama subway station, or take one of the many buses that run along Higashiōji-dōri

In the late nineteenth century, after Emperor Meiji moved his court to Tokyo, Kyoto authorities felt the need to reaffirm their city’s illustrious past. The result was Heian-jingū, an impressive though rather garish shrine modelled on a scaled-down version of the original eighth-century emperor’s Hall of State. Completed in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the founding of the city, it was dedicated to emperors Kammu and Kōmei (reigned 1846–67), Kyoto’s first and last imperial residents. The present buildings are reconstructions from 1979, but this is still one of Kyoto’s most famous and picturesque landmarks.

MACHIYA

Kyoto’s traditional townhouses, machiya, were built in a unique architectural style and remain an enduring symbol of the city’s cultural heritage. These long, wooden houses are made up of a succession of rooms, connected by a single corridor, sometimes stretching as far back as 100m from the front. Their design is a result of the taxes that were levied on buildings during the Edo period according to the size of their street frontage. Machiya were generally built by merchants, encompassing a front shop space, living quarters in the middle and a warehouse at the rear. A courtyard garden was also included to aid the flow of light and air through the centre. Their long, thin shape lead to their colloquial name, unagi no nedoko, or “bedroom of eels”.

Machiya were built almost entirely out of wood, which means that because of fire and earthquakes few that remain today are more than a century old. Some of the best examples are protected by law, but this has not stopped others being demolished at an alarming rate (some figures estimate by more than ten percent a year) since the end of World War II, as land values increased and modern development was encouraged. However, you can still walk along Sannen-zaka, Shinbashi or through the Nishijin weaving district and find some almost complete rows of these beautiful old houses, each dark facade showing subtle variations on the same overall design. Note the distinctive gutter-guards made of curved bamboo, and the narrow-slatted ground-floor windows, which keep out both the summer heat and prying eyes.

Encouragingly, though some continue to be demolished, many machiya now seem to be experiencing a period of revitalization, having been remodelled as restaurants, guesthouses, boutiques and galleries. You can find a selection of the best of these in the accommodation and restaurant listings.

The shrine’s bright orange and white halls have an unmistakably Chinese air. Two wings embrace a huge, gravelled courtyard, at the north end of which sits the main worship hall flanked by a couple of pretty two-storey towers representing the protective “Blue Dragon” and “White Tiger”.

The gardens

More interesting than the actual shrine are the gardens behind, which were also designed in Heian style. They’re divided into four sections, starting in the southwest corner and ending beside a large pond in the east. The south garden features a collection of plants mentioned in Heian literature, while the middle (third) garden is famous for a row of stepping stones made from the columns of two sixteenth-century bridges. The more spacious east garden boasts the shrine’s most attractive buildings – the graceful Taihei-kaku pavilion and its covered bridge.

Fureaikan

ふれあい館 • 9-1 Seishoji-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 075 762 2670, kmtc.jp/en

Heian-jingū faces south towards a large vermilion torii across a park dotted with museums and other municipal buildings. The most rewarding of these is the Fureaikan, a museum of traditional crafts in the basement of the modern Miyako Messe exhibition building. Well designed and informative, the museum provides an excellent introduction to the whole range of Kyoto crafts, from roof tiles and metalwork to textiles, confectionery and ornamental hairpins. You can also watch the craftsmen and women at work here, or join a Yūzen dyeing class (Sundays only).

Hosomi Museum

細見美術館, Hosomi Bijutsukan • 6-3 Saishōji-chō • Tues–Sun: museum 10am–6pm (varies by exhibition); café 10.30am–10.30pm; tearoom 11am–5pm • Varies by exhibition, but usually around ¥1500 • 075 752 5555, emuseum.or.jp

The cube-shaped Hosomi Museum is a private establishment whose inspiring collection includes Japanese painting, sculpture and decorative art from all major historical periods. It hosts seasonal exhibitions that are curated from the museum’s collection. On the top floor is a traditional tearoom, while downstairs the Café Cube serves tasty Italian dishes. The museum’s Artcube shop is also worth a visit for its excellent selection of contemporary crafts.

National Museum of Modern Art

京都国立近代美術館, Kyōto Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan • Enshoji-chō • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm, until 8pm on Fri & Sat • ¥430, evenings ¥220, special exhibitions ¥1000–1500 • 075 761 4111, www.momak.go.jp

The National Museum of Modern Art focuses on local and international twentieth-century artists. On display in this smart modern building are paintings, sculptures, ceramics, crafts and photos. The museum also has an excellent collection of contemporary nihonga (Japanese-style painting) and yōga (Western-style painting). From the fourth floor, there are good views over the large red torii in front of the museum.

Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art

京都市京セラ美術館, Kyōto-shi Kyō-sera Bijutsukan • Enshōji-chō • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Collection room ¥730; prices vary for special exhibitions • 075 771 4107, kyotocity-kyocera.museum

The brick-built Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art, inaugurated in 1933 and thoroughly renovated from 2017 to 2020, hosts excellent exhibitions from its vast collection of post-1868 fine arts. On display are Japanese and foreign artists, and it’s also possible to see visiting exhibitions of Baroque treasures or painters such as Van Gogh and Andy Warhol. The main building's Collection Room showcases seasonal pieces from the museum's archive of Japanese art, changing four times a year. At the time of writing, the main building was under refurbishment but it should have reopened by the time you’re reading this – note that the hours and prices listed above may change.

Murin-an

無鄰庵 • 31 Nanzenji Kusakawa-chō • Daily: April–Sept 9am–6pm; Oct–March 9am–5pm • ¥600 • 075 771 3909, murin-an.jp.html • Walk east along the canal from the large torii between the KYOCERA Museum and the Museum of Modern Art

At the same time that Heian-jingū was being built, Marshal Yamagata Aritomo, a leading member of the Meiji government, was creating his villa, Murin-an, a delightful haven beside the Biwa Canal. Even today, as you look east from the garden to the Higashiyama hills beyond, it’s hard to believe that you’re in the middle of a busy city. Designed by Yamagata himself, the unusually naturalistic garden incorporates a meandering stream, pond and lawns in a surprisingly small space. There are also three buildings: take a look upstairs in the two-storey brick house, where parquet floors and wood panelling blend beautifully with Kanō-school painted screens.

Nanzen-ji

南禅寺 • Fukuchi-chō • Daily: March–Nov 8.40am–5pm; Dec–Feb 8.40am–4.30pm • Temple complex free, Konchi-in ¥400, San-mon ¥500, Hōjō ¥500, Tenju-an ¥500 (¥600 during illuminations) • 075 771 0365, nanzenji.com • A 10min walk from Keage subway station, or #5 bus to Nanzenji/Eikandō-michi

Nestled in the eastern hills near the Biwa Canal is the stately Nanzen-ji. This large, active temple complex belongs to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism and is one of the most important in Kyoto. Nanzen-ji is also famous for its shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) and yūdōfu (simmered tofu), which can be sampled in a number of its sub-temples.

Konchi-in

金地院

Before entering the main Nanzen-ji compound, it’s worth exploring its quiet sub-temple, Konchi-in, on the right in front of the first gate. An arched gate leads straight into one of Kyoto’s most beautiful dry gardens – one of the rare works by famed landscape gardener Kobori Enshū, with documents to prove it. Its centrepiece is a large rectangle of raked gravel with two groups of rocks set against a bank of clipped shrubs. The right-hand, vertical rock group represents a crane, in balance with the horizontal “tortoise”-shaped rock topped by a twisted pine, on the left; both these animals symbolize longevity.

THE PHILOSOPHER’S PATH

One of the prettiest walks in Kyoto, especially during cherry blossom season, is the 2km-long Philosopher’s Path (哲学の道, Tetsugaku no michi), which starts just north of Nanzen-ji and leads to Ginkaku-ji. Its name refers to respected philosopher Nishida Kitarō (1870–1945), who took his daily constitutional along the path through the wooded hillside on his way to Kyoto University. Every so often stone bridges link it to the tranquil residential lanes on either side, while the occasional souvenir shop or quaint tearoom provides an additional distraction. You can reach the southern end of the path by exiting Eikan-dō and taking the first right turn; you’ll emerge about thirty minutes later beside the Ginkaku-ji bridge and the road leading up to the temple. From here you can pick up bus routes #5, #203 and #204, and Raku buses #100 and #102, which stop nearby at Ginkaku-ji-michi.

San-mon

三門

Erected in 1628 to commemorate the soldiers killed during the siege of Osaka Castle, the looming bulk of San-mon, the main gate to Nanzen-ji, seems excessively monumental after Konchi-in. Aside from the pleasant views from the gate, the main reason to pay the entry fee is to see the fabulous ceiling of birds and celestial beings painted by Tosa- and Kanō-school artists.

The Hōjō

方丈

Nanzen-ji’s prize treasures can be found in the Hōjō (main hall), up to the right behind San-mon. These include a series of beautiful screens painted by Kanō Tanyū that depict tigers in a bamboo grove, and the “Leaping Tiger” garden, also attributed to Enshū, though the space here is much more confined than that of Konchi-in.

Tenju-an

天授庵

Located on the south side of the San-mon gate, the sub-temple Tenju-an is often overlooked as visitors rush to the Hōjō of Nanzen-ji. However, the rock garden here is superb, and there’s also a charming garden around the koi pond. In the autumn, evening illuminations make the golden leaves even more evocative.

Oku-no-in

奥の院

Oku-no-in, a small Shintō shrine, is hidden away behind the main temple buildings – follow the path along the attractive but slightly incongruous Meiji-era brick aqueduct into the forest until you come to a mossy grotto with a small waterfall. You may be lucky enough to see pilgrims praying and performing sacred rituals here, even in the winter months.

Eikan-dō

永観堂 • 48 Eikandō-chō • Daily: Dec–Oct 9am–5pm, last admission 4pm; Nov 8.30am–5pm (autumn leaf viewing) & 5.30–9pm (illuminations), last admission 8.30pm • ¥600, or ¥1000 in Nov daytime • 075 761 0007, eikando.or.jp

Also known as Zenrin-ji due to its unusual Amida statue, the temple of Eikan-dō was founded in the ninth century by a disciple of Kōbō Daishi, but later became the headquarters of a sub-sect of Jōdoshū (Pure Land Buddhism). In 1082 the then head priest, Eikan, was circling the altar and chanting the nembutsu, “Praise to Amida Buddha”, when the Amida statue stepped down and started walking in front of him. When Eikan stopped in his tracks, Amida turned to encourage him. Soon after, the priest commissioned the statue you see today of Amida looking over his left shoulder. Eikan-dō is also an extremely popular location for maple-leaf viewing during November. Viewing the floodlit leaves in the evening is quite magical, if you don’t mind sharing the experience with large crowds; weekends during this period are best avoided.

Ginkaku-ji

銀閣寺 • 2 Ginkaku-ji-chō • Daily: March–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 075 771 5725, shokoku-ji.jp

The Temple of the Silver Pavilion, Ginkaku-ji, is one of Kyoto’s most celebrated sights. Though modelled on its ostentatious forebear, the golden Kinkaku-ji, this simple building sits quietly in the wings while the garden takes centre stage, dominated by a truncated cone of white sand whose severity offsets the soft greens of the surrounding stroll-garden.

Ginkaku-ji originally formed part of a much larger villa built in the fifteenth century for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (1436–90), the grandson of Kinkaku-ji’s Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. Interrupted by the Ōnin War (1467–77) and plagued by lack of funds, the work continued for thirty years, until Yoshimasa’s death in 1490. During that time, however, it became the focal point of Japanese cultural life. Yoshimasa may have been a weak and incompetent ruler, but under his patronage the arts reached new heights of aesthetic refinement; in this mountainside retreat, significantly turned away from the city, he indulged his love of the tea ceremony, poetry and moon-viewing parties while Kyoto succumbed to war. After 1490, the villa became a Rinzai Zen temple, Jishō-ji, and eventually fires razed all except two buildings, one of which was the famous pavilion.

The garden

The approach to Ginkaku-ji creates a wonderful sense of anticipation as you’re funnelled between tall, thick hedges down an apparently dead-end lane. Inside, you’re directed first to the dry garden, comprising a raised, rippled “Sea of Silver Sand” – designed to reflect moonlight – and a large “moon-facing” cone of sand. The jury’s out on whether these enhance the garden or intrude, but it’s almost certain that they weren’t in the original design, and were probably added in the early seventeenth century. Behind the cone to the west, the small, dark two-storey building with the phoenix topknot is Ginkaku-ji, named “Silver Pavilion” despite its lack of silver plating.

Shūgaku-in Rikyū

修学院離宮 • Shūgaku-in Yabusoe • Tours (in Japanese, with free English audio guide) Tues–Sun 9am, 10am, 11am, 1.30pm & 3pm • Free • Book tours in advance at the IHA office; bring your passport • City Bus #5 to the Shūgaku-in Rikyū-michi stop on Shirakawa-dōri, then a signed 10min walk to the east; or Eizan-line train from Demachiyanagi Station to Shūgaku-in Station (10min)

In the foothills of Hiei-zan in the far northeast of Kyoto, the imperial villa of Shūgaku-in Rikyū boasts one of Japan’s finest examples of garden design using “borrowed scenery” – a technique which incorporates the existing landscape to give the impression of a much larger space. Emperor Go-mizuno’o, who reigned between 1611 and 1629, built Shūgaku-in Rikyū in the late 1650s as a pleasure garden rather than a residence. Just fifteen years old when he ascended the throne, the artistic and highly cultured Go-mizuno’o fiercely resented the new shogunate’s constant meddling in imperial affairs – not least being forced to marry the shogun’s daughter. After Go-mizuno’o abdicated in 1630, however, the shogun encouraged him to establish an imperial villa. He eventually settled on the site of a ruined temple, Shūgaku-in, and set about designing a series of gardens, which survived more than a century of neglect before the government rescued them in the 1820s. Though some of the original pavilions have been lost, Go-mizuno’o’s overall design remains – a delightfully naturalistic garden that blends seamlessly into the wooded hills.

The gardens

Shūgaku-in Rikyū is made up of three separate gardens, each in their own enclosure among the terraced rice fields. Of these, the top lake-garden is the star attraction. Climbing up the path towards the upper villa, you pass between tall, clipped hedges before suddenly emerging at the compound’s highest point. An airy pavilion, Rin-un-Tei, occupies the little promontory, with views over the lake, the forested, rolling hills in the middle distance and the mountains beyond. As you walk back down through the garden, the grand vistas continue with every twist and turn of the path, passing the intricate Chitose bridge, intimate tea-ceremony pavilions and rustic boathouses.

North Kyoto

Kyoto’s northern area stretches from the confluence of the Kamo-gawa and Takano-gawa towards the Kitayama district. The sites described below can be visited together in a day, incorporating a leisurely stroll along the banks of the Kamo-gawa – spectacular during the cherry blossom season – with visits to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed twin shrines of Shimogamo (“lower Kamo”) and Kamigamo (“upper Kamo”). Both shrines predate the founding of Kyoto, and house the deities that protect the city. They jointly hold the annual Aoi Matsuri, as well as many other cultural events.

Shimogamo-jinja

下鴨神社 • 59 Izumigawa-chō • Daily 6.30am–5pm • Free • 075 781 0010, www.shimogamo-jinja.or.jp • City Bus #4, #205 or a 10min walk from Keihan Demachiyanagi Station

The approach to the vermilion shrine buildings of tranquil Shimogamo-jinja, nestled in the ancient Tadasu-no-mori (“Forest of truth”), is along a gravel path flanked by a gurgling narrow stream. There have been structures on the site since the eighth century, although the main hall, the Honden (本殿), was rebuilt in the mid-nineteenth century. The shrine’s peaceful, shady setting offers a welcome respite from the heat of summer, and stunning foliage colours in autumn. Sadly, financial pressures have forced it to lease some of its land, and 99-unit luxury condominium has been built on its southern edges.

Kamigamo-jinja

上賀茂神社 • 339 Motoyama • Daily 5.30am–5pm • Free • 075 781 0011, kamigamojinja.jp • City Bus #4, #9, #46 or 20min walk from Kitayama subway station

At the northern edge of Kyoto’s city limits, Kamigamo-jinja has the feeling of a park thanks to the large lawn at its entrance, which is used for various festivals and rituals including yabusame (horseback archery), horseracing and children’s sumo. After entering through two large torii, you’ll come to the closely grouped shrine buildings. Look out for the tatesuna – two cones of sand topped with sprigs of pine – located in front of the Hosodono hall. They are said to represent the yin and yang principle.

Kyoto Botanical Gardens

京都府立植物園, Kyoto Furitsu Shokubutsuen • Shimogamo Hangi-chō • Daily: 9am–5pm, last entry 4pm; greenhouse 10am–4pm, last entry 3.30pm • ¥200, greenhouse ¥200 • 075 701 0141, www.pref.kyoto.jp/plant • City Bus #4 or a short walk from Kitayama subway station

Established in 1924, the Kyoto Botanical Gardens are the oldest in Japan, with an impressive collection of more than 12,000 native and foreign plants. A circuit takes you round the gardens: look out for the sunken garden (a fusion of East Asian and European styles), the conservatory of tropical plants, the bonsai garden and the cherry blossom garden with around 500 varieties.

West Kyoto

Compared to east Kyoto, sights in the city’s western districts are more dispersed, but it is worth devoting a day to this area, particularly the northwest fringes, where the city meets the encircling hills. The extravagant Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion), the enigmatic Zen garden of Ryōan-ji and the dry gardens of Daitoku-ji should all not be missed, while the Nishijin weaving district is an interesting area to explore with its streets of machiya and the sounds of the silk-weaving looms.

Nishijin Ori Kaikan

西陣織会館 • Horikawa-dōri Imadegawa Minami-iri • Daily: March–Nov 10am–6pm; Dec–Feb 10am–5pm; kimono shows roughly hourly 10.30am–4pm • Free; kimono rental ¥4000–13,000 • 075 451 9231, nishijin.or.jp • Raku Bus #101 & #102 or City Bus #9 & #12

Kyoto has long been famous for the high quality of its weaving of kimono and obi sashes, and the centre of the city’s textile industry is the Nishijin district, to the west of the Imperial Palace. The number of weaving businesses has decreased rapidly in recent years, from more than twelve hundred in 1980 to fewer than six hundred now, due to the economic conditions and reduced local demand. However, as you walk through the area you’ll still hear the clatter of looms in dozens of family-run workshops, and you can watch demonstrations of Nishijin weaving at the Nishijin Ori Kaikan. Their display rooms have examples of exquisite silk kimono and obi, and you can also watch the kimono shows, which, although touristy, are a good basic introduction to the different types of kimono. It’s also possible to rent different types of kimono and be professionally photographed (reservation required).

Daitoku-ji

大徳寺 • 53 Daitokuji-chō • Daily 24hr • Free • 075 491 0016, zen.rinnou.net • Roughly 1km west of Kita-ōji subway station (Karasuma line), or City Bus #101, #102, #205 and #206 to Daitoku-ji-mae stop

Lying halfway between the Kamo-gawa and the Kitayama hills, Daitoku-ji is one of Kyoto’s largest Zen temple complexes, with over twenty sub-temples in its large, walled compound. Of these only four are open to the public, but within them you’ll find a representative sampler of the dry gardens (kare-sansui) for which Japanese Zen Buddhism is renowned. Daitoku-ji is also an excellent place to sample top-quality shōjin-ryōri, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine.

Daisen-in

大仙院 • Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥400 • 075 491 8346, daisen-in.net

Entering Daitoku-ji from the east, head through the huge San-mon gate to the sub-temple of Daisen-in in the north of the compound: if you can, it pays to visit early in the day before the crowds arrive. Of the temple’s two gardens, the most famous is on the right as you enter the main hall – it replicates a Chinese landscape painting and uses carefully selected rocks, pebbles and a few scaled-down plants to conjure up jagged mountains.

Ryōgen-in

龍源院 • Daily 9am–4.20pm • ¥350 • 075 491 7635

Founded in the early sixteenth century, Ryōgen-in is home to Japan’s smallest Zen rock garden. The minuscule Tōtekiko garden, on your right-hand side as you continue along the corridor from the entrance, consists of waves of sand round a rock, symbolizing a Zen saying that the harder a stone is thrown, the bigger the ripples. This sub-temple also contains four other gardens, including the mossy Ryugin-tei, which claims to be the oldest garden in the compound.

Funaoka Onsen

船岡温泉 • 82-1 Minamifunaoka-chō • Mon–Sat 3pm–1am, Sun 8am–1am • ¥430 • 075 441 3735, funaokaonsen.net • City Bus #206 to Senbon-Kuramaguchi stop, then 5min walk, or 30min walk from Kuramaguchi subway station

Despite its name, Funaoka Onsen is actually a sentō (public bath), the best in Kyoto. Among the many types of baths – which include denki-buro, or electric baths – is a small but lovely outdoor pool, fed by a spout of water from a dragon's mouth. The main attraction is the changing rooms, though, which feature colourful majolica tiles and elaborate woodcarvings; the tengu's protruding nose on the ceiling panel is a nice touch. The men's and women's baths alternate daily, and happily, visitors with tattoos are welcome.

Kinkaku-ji

金閣寺 • 1 Kinkaku-ji-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400 • 075 461 0013, shokoku-ji.jp • City Bus #101, #102, #205 & #206

West of Daitoku-ji, the wooded hills of Kitayama are home to Kinkaku-ji, the famous Temple of the Golden Pavilion. The pavilion originally formed part of a larger retirement villa built by the former Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358–1408) on the site of an earlier aristocratic residence; it was converted into a Zen temple on his death. A noted scholar of Chinese culture, Yoshimitsu incorporated various Chinese motifs into the pavilion and its surrounding garden, the focus of which is a lake studded with rocks and pine-covered islets.

Even the crowds can’t diminish the impact of seeing the temple for the first time – a hint of gold glimpsed though the trees, and then the whole, gleaming apparition floating above the aptly named Kyōko-chi (Mirror Pond). If you’re lucky enough to see it against the autumn leaves, or on a sunny winter’s day after a dusting of snow, the effect is doubly striking. Note the different architectural styles of the pavilion’s three floors and the phoenix standing on the shingle roof. It’s an appropriate symbol: having survived all these years, Kinkaku-ji was torched in 1950 by an unhappy monk. The replica was finished in just five years, and in 1987 the building was gilded again, at vast expense.

Ryōan-ji

龍安寺 • 13 Goryōnoshita-machi • Daily: March–Nov 8am–5pm; Dec–Feb 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 075 463 2216, www.ryoanji.jp • Take bus #12 or #59 from Kinkaku-ji, or walk southwest along Kinukake no michi from Kinkaku-ji for about 15min

While Kinkaku-ji is all about displays of wealth and power, the dry garden of Ryōan-ji hides infinite truths within its riddle of rocks and sand. Thought to date back to the late fifteenth century, and said by some to be the work of Sōami, the most famous artist, landscape gardener and tea ceremony master of the time, it was largely unknown until the 1930s. Now it’s probably Japan’s most famous garden, which means you’re unlikely to be able to appreciate the Zen experience thanks to intrusive loudspeaker announcements and almost constant crowds, though very early morning tends to be better.

The garden consists of a long, walled rectangle of off-white gravel, in which fifteen stones of various sizes are arranged in five groups, some rising up from the raked sand and others almost completely lost. In fact, the stones are placed so that wherever you stand one of them is always hidden from view. The only colour is provided by electric-green patches of moss around some stones, making this among the simplest and most abstract of all Japan’s Zen gardens. It’s thought that the layout is a kōan, or riddle, set by Zen masters to test their students, and there’s endless debate about its meaning. Popular theories range from tigers crossing a river to islands floating in a sea of infinity. Fortunately, it’s possible to enjoy the garden’s perfect harmony and in-built tension without worrying too much about the meaning. Walk round the veranda of the main hall and you’ll find a stone water basin inscribed with a helpful thought from the Zen tradition: “I learn only to be contented”.

Kitano Tenmangū

北野天満宮 • Bakuro-chō • Daily: April–Sept 5am–6pm; Oct–March 5.30am–5.30pm • Free • Hōmotsu-den 25th of every month 10am–6pm • ¥800 • 075 461 0005, kitanotenmangu.or.jp • City Bus #50, #101 or #203

Established in the mid-tenth century, the large, stately Shintō shrine complex of Kitano Tenmangū is dedicated to Heian scholar Sugawara Michizane (845–903), deified as Tenjin, the “god of education”. Students of all ages flock here at exam time to make offerings and buy good-luck charms. The current shrine buildings, including the main Honden (本殿) hall, the outer Ro-mon and the inner Sanko-mon, were built by Toyotomi Hideyori in 1607. The shrine hosts the monthly Tenjin-san flea market and is also an excellent place to view ume (plum) blossoms in early spring and momiji (maple) leaves in autumn. Its Hōmotsu-den (Treasure House) is opened once a month.

Myōshin-ji

妙心寺 • Myōshinji-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • Temple complex free • 075 463 3121, myoshinji.or.jp • For the North Gate take City Bus #10, for the South Gate take City Bus #91 or #93; alternatively, it’s a 10min walk from JR Hanazono Station

Formerly a palace for Emperor Hanazono (1297–1348), the large Myōshin-ji complex houses the head temple of the Zen Rinzai school, Myōshin-ji, as well as 46 sub-temples. The complex is vast and its main thoroughfare is connected by two imposing wooden gates, in the north and south. Myōshin-ji’s notable sights include a wonderful cloud dragon painting on the ceiling of the Hattō (法堂) main hall and a seventh-century Buddhist temple bell (still in use) that’s believed to be the oldest in Japan. Most of the sub-temples can’t be visited and are hidden from view behind high walls, but four – Taizō-in, Keishun-in, Shunkō-in and Daishin-in – are open to the public.

Taizō-in

退蔵院 • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥600 • 075 463 2855, taizoin.com

Dating from the fifteenth century, Taizō-in has two splendid gardens: a karesansui (dry rock garden) by the Muromachi-period artist Kanō Motonobu; and a modern pond garden. The temple owns one of Japan’s oldest and most famous ink paintings – Hyonenzu (“Catching catfish with a gourd”) by the fifteenth-century artist Josetsu, and also contains some exceptional modern fusuma-e (screen door paintings) by artist Murabayashi Yuki, commissioned in 2013.

Keishun-in

桂春院 • Daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥400 • 075 463 6578

Peaceful Keishun-in, founded in 1598, is mainly notable for its four beautiful gardens – a moss garden, dry garden, a small garden featuring Buddhist statuary, and a tea garden. It also has an elegant tea room, open on two sides to the gardens.

Daishin-in

大心院 • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 075 461 5714

Small, simple Daishin-in has some beautiful gardens, but is best visited for a temple stay (ōō;. It's one of the few where you stay within the temple rather than in an annex, and offers delicious shojin-ryōri dishes for breakfast.

Shunkō-in

春光院 • Meditation classes usually daily 9.30am (no reservation required; check schedule in advance), 11am (for large groups with reservation) • Meditation class & tour ¥3000, including tea • 075 462 5488, shunkoin.com

Established in 1590, the Shunkō-in temple holds several important artefacts related to Christianity in Japan, including the bell of Nanban-ji, Kyoto’s first Christian church, which was destroyed in 1587. Shunkō-in offers shukubō temple lodging and meditation classes in English; tours of the temple are only offered as part of the classes.

Getty Images

TRADITIONAL MACHIYA TOWNHOUSE, HANAMIKŌJI-DŌRI

English-speaking Reverend Takafumi Kawakami is known for his talks on the role of Zen and mindfulness in the 21st century, and for his advocacy of LGBTQ rights – in 2011 Shunkō-in became the first temple in Japan to offer same-sex weddings.

Kōryū-ji

広隆寺 • 32 Hachioka-chō • Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥700 • 075 861 1461 • Keifuku Arashiyama-line trains from Shijō-Ōmiya Station to Uzumasa Station; alternatively, 10min walk from Uzumasa Tenjingawa subway station, or City Bus #11 and Kyoto Bus #71, #72, #73 and #74

In the Uzumasa district in western Kyoto, due south of Ryōan-ji, Kōryū-ji is said to have been founded in the early seventh century by Nara’s Prince Shōtoku, making it one of Japan’s oldest temples.

The Kōdō (Lecture Hall) – straight ahead once you’ve entered the compound from the Heian-period gate – dates from 1165 and is one of the oldest buildings in Kyoto. The three Buddhas inside are imposing enough, but Kōryū-ji’s main attractions are the statues kept in the modern Reihōden (霊宝殿, Treasure House) at the back of the compound. The “newest” of these images is a thirteenth-century statue of Prince Shōtoku aged 16, his sweet face framed by bun-shaped pigtails. The oldest is the exquisite Miroku Bosatsu (弥勒菩薩), the Future Buddha rendered as a bodhisattva pondering how to save mankind. Originally, it was probably gilded and it is thought to have been a gift to Shōtoku from the Korean court in the early seventh century; its soft, delicate features are certainly unlike any Japanese images from the time.

Tōei Uzumasa Eiga-mura

東映太秦映画村 • 10 Higashi Hachioka-chō • Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥2400; children ¥1400; extra charges for some attractions • 075 864 7716, toei-eigamura.com • Keifuku Arashiyama-line train from Shijō-Ōmiya Station to Uzumasa Station; alternatively, 10min walk from Uzumasa Tenjingawa subway station, or City Bus #11 and Kyoto Bus #71, #72, #73 and #74 to Kōryū-ji, then a short walk

Run by one of Japan’s major film companies, Tōei Uzumasa Eiga-mura (Tōei Kyoto Studio Park) is a functioning film studio that doubles as a theme park. Sets are open to the public, who can look round the location where directors such as Kurosawa Akira filmed their classics. One of the indoor studios is usually in action, nowadays mostly making historical TV dramas, while the outdoor sets – an Edo-period street, thatched farmhouses, Meiji-era Western-style buildings and so on – are enlivened by roaming geisha and sword-fighting samurai. You can also rent a costume and stroll around as a geisha, samurai or ninja (from ¥3800 with professional photos).

Katsura Rikyū

桂離宮 • Katsura • Tours (in English) Tues–Sun 9.20am, 11.20am, 1.20pm, 3.20pm & 4.20pm • ¥1000 • Book tours in advance at the IHA office; bring your passport • 20min walk from Katsura Station, (Hankyū line); alternatively, City Bus #33 to Katsura Rikyū-mae, then 5min walk north to the gate – this bus stop lies just outside the bus-pass zones, so if you want to save a few yen, get off one stop earlier, at Katsura Ōhashi

Located on the west bank of the Katsura-gawa, Katsura Rikyū is a former imperial villa that was built in the early seventeenth century as a residence for the imperial Prince Toshihito, and then expanded by his son, Toshitada, in the 1650s. Toshihito was a highly cultured man, who filled his villa and garden with references to The Tale of Genji and other literary classics, while also creating what is considered to be Japan’s first stroll-garden. As the name suggests, these gardens were to be enjoyed on foot – rather than from a boat or from a fixed viewpoint – and although they were designed to look “natural”, in fact they were planned in minute detail, so that scenes unfold in a particular order as the viewer progresses. Focused on a large, indented lake, the garden is famed for its variety of footpaths and stone pavings, and for its stone lanterns. Several tea pavilions occupy prime spots around the lake, the most attractive of which is Shokin-tei (松琴亭).

Saihō-ji

西芳寺 • 56 Jingatani-chō • Daily, hours vary • ¥3000 • Reservations required; book 1–2 months in advance (information on website) • 075 391 3631, saihoji-kokedera.com • From Arashiyama or Kyoto Station, City Bus #28 or Kyoto Bus #63 or #73 to Matsuo Taisha-mae (松尾大社前), then 15min walk

In a narrow, tree-filled valley 3km northwest of Katsura Rikyū, you’ll find the voluptuous and tranquil moss gardens of Saihō-ji, also known as Koke-dera (苔寺), or the “Moss Temple”. A visit to Saihō-ji needs planning, but don’t be put off by the application process or the distance from central Kyoto – this temple is well worth visiting and a memorable experience. All visitors are required to attend a short Zen service during which you’ll chant a sutra, trace the sutra’s characters in sumi-e ink and finally write your name, address and “wish” before placing the paper in front of the altar. After that, you’re free to explore the garden at your leisure.

Like Kōryū-ji, the temple started life in the seventh century as one of Prince Shōtoku’s villas. Soon after, Jōdo Buddhists adopted the site for one of their “paradise gardens”, after which the gifted Zen monk, Musō Kokushi, was invited to take over the temple in 1338. The present layout dates mostly from his time, though the lakeside pavilion – the inspiration for Kinkaku-ji – and nearly all Saihō-ji’s other buildings burnt down during the Ōnin Wars (1467–77). In fact, given the temple’s history of fire, flooding and periods of neglect, it seems unlikely that today’s garden bears much resemblance to Musō’s. Whatever their origin, the swathes of soft, dappled moss – some 120 varieties in all – are a magical sight, especially after the rains of May and June, when the greens take on an extra intensity.

Arashiyama

嵐山

Western Kyoto ends in the pleasant, leafy suburb of ARASHIYAMA. Set beside the Hozu-gawa, Arashiyama, literally ‘‘storm mountain’’, was originally a place for imperial relaxation, away from the main court in central Kyoto, where aristocrats indulged in pursuits such as poetry-writing and hunting. The palaces were later converted into temples and monasteries, the most famous of which is Tenryū-ji, noted for its garden, while the smaller, quieter temples have a more intimate appeal. In contrast with Tenryū-ji’s somewhat introspective garden, that of Ōkōchi Sansō – the home of a 1920s movie actor – is by turns secretive and dramatic, with winding paths and sudden views over Kyoto.

The area’s most interesting sights, as well as the majority of its shops, restaurants and transport facilities, lie north of the Hozu-gawa. Note that central Arashiyama can get unbearably crowded, particularly on spring and autumn weekends; however, if you head north along the hillside you’ll soon begin to leave the crowds behind. A good way to explore the area is to rent a bike and spend a day pottering around the lanes and through magnificent bamboo forests; alternatively, it is possible to see some of the main sights by jinrikisha (rickshaw).

Togetsu-kyō

渡月橋 • 3min walk south of Keifuku Arashiyama Station

Arashiyama centres on the long Togetsu-kyō bridge, which spans the Hozu-gawa (known as the Katsura-gawa east of the bridge). This is a famous spot for viewing cherry blossoms in spring and maples in autumn.

Tenryū-ji

天龍寺 • 68 Susukinobaba-chō • Daily: late March to late Oct 8.30am–5.30pm; late Oct to late March 8.30am–5pm • Garden only ¥500, garden & temple ¥800 • 075 881 1235, tenryuji.com

The first major sight in Arashiyama is the Zen temple of Tenryū-ji, which started life as the country retreat of Emperor Kameyama (1260–74), grandfather of the more famous Emperor Go-Daigo (1318–39). Go-Daigo overthrew the Kamakura shogunate and wrested power back to Kyoto in 1333 with the help of a defector from the enemy camp, Ashikaga Takauji. The ambitious Ashikaga soon grew exasperated by Go-Daigo’s incompetence and staged a counter-coup. He placed a puppet emperor on the throne and declared himself shogun, thus also gaining the Arashiyama palace, while Go-Daigo fled south to set up a rival court in Yoshino, south of Nara. After Go-Daigo died in 1339, however, a series of bad omens convinced Ashikaga to convert the palace into a temple to appease Go-Daigo’s restless soul.

The garden

The temple buildings are nearly all twentieth-century reproductions, but the garden behind dates back to the thirteenth century. It’s best viewed from inside the temple, from where you get the full impact of the pond and its artfully placed rock groupings against the tree-covered hillside. The present layout of the garden is the work of Musō Kokushi, the fourteenth-century Zen monk also responsible for Saihō-ji, who incorporated Zen and Chinese motifs into the existing garden. Look out for the garden’s most admired feature, the dry Dragon Gate waterfall on the far side of the pond. Apparently inspired by Chinese Song-dynasty landscape paintings, the waterfall’s design is extremely unusual in a Japanese garden.

Bamboo grove

竹林, Takabayashi • Saga Ogura-yama Tabuchiyama-chō • Daily 24hr • Free • hanatouro.jp/arashiyama • 10min walk northwest of Keifuku Arashiyama Station

One of Arashiyama’s most popular and photogenic sights, the beautifully maintained bamboo grove is spectacular in any season. The path through the grove begins to the north of Tenryū-ji, and runs west all the way to the entrance of Ōkōchi Sansō. It’s usually best visited in daylight hours, but is lit up in the evening at certain times of the year; check the website for exact dates. That said, it's often overwhelmingly crowded, which really detracts from the experience; cyclists and jinrikisha use a separate lane to pedestrians, and it's generally much quieter.

Ōkōchi Sansō

大河内山荘 • 8 Tabuchiyama-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1000, including green tea • 075 872 2233 • 15min walk northwest of Keifuku Arashiyama Station

On the hillside at the edge of the bamboo grove you’ll find the entrance to the very attractive Ōkōchi Sansō. Once the home of Ōkōchi Denjirō, a silent-film idol of the 1920s, this traditional Japanese villa has a spectacular location. The path through the villa’s expansive grounds leads you all over the hillside, past tea-ceremony pavilions, a moss garden, a dry garden and stone benches, up to a ridge with views over Kyoto on one side and the Hozu gorge on the other. Finally, you drop down to a small museum devoted to the actor.

Rakushisha

落柿舎 • 20 Hinomyōjin-chō • Daily: Jan & Feb 10am–6pm; March–Dec 9am–5pm • ¥250 • 075 881 1953, www.rakushisha.jp • 15min walk northwest from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station

A rustic seventeenth-century hermitage, Rakushisha belonged to Mukai Kyorai (1651–1704), one of the disciples of haiku master Bashō, who composed his Saga Nikki (diary) here. Kyorai named Rakushisha (literally, “cottage of the fallen persimmons”) after a storm stripped his persimmon trees of fruit. An English-language pamphlet has translations of the poem stones in the garden, which also contains special boxes in which you can leave your own haiku for the annual competition.

Seiryō-ji

清凉寺 • 46 Fujinoki-chō • Daily 9am–4pm (April, May, Oct & Nov to 5pm) • ¥400 (April, May, Oct & Nov ¥700) • 075 861 0343, seiryoji.or.jp • 15min walk north from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station

The main reason to visit the temple of Seiryō-ji is to see its wonderful statue of Shaka Nyorai (the Historical Buddha), though the compound itself is a pleasant place to wander around, too, and it’s usually not crowded. The statue is usually on public display in April, May, October and November; at other times, a donation of ¥1000 will enable you to view it. The image was carved in China in 985 AD and is a copy of a much older Indian statue, which in turn is said to have been modelled on the Buddha while he was alive. When the statue was opened in 1953, several little silk bags in the shape of a heart, kidneys and liver were found; these “internal organs” are on display in the temple museum.

Giō-ji

祇王寺 • 32 Kozaka-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 075 861 3574, giouji.or.jp/en • 20min walk northwest from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station

Named after one of its former inhabitants, Giō-ji is a pretty little Buddhist nunnery with a mossy, maple-shaded garden and bamboo groves. Princess Giō was a concubine of the notoriously ruthless Taira Kiyomori (1118–81), and retired to Arashiyama with her mother, sister and, later, another rejected concubine of Kiyomori. Their wooden statues are on display in a small pavilion alongside a Buddha image, and also a statue of Kiyomori.

Adashino Nenbutsu-ji

化野念仏寺 • 17 Adashino-chō • Daily: March–Nov 9am–4.30pm; Dec–Feb 9am–3.30pm • ¥500, Sentō Kuyō ¥1000 • 075 821 2732, nenbutsuji.jp • 30min walk northwest from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station

On a hill at the northwestern edge of the Arashiyama district is the rather forlorn Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, notable for its ten thousand or so small Buddhist stone statues. It’s a spectacular but sad landscape – centuries of unknown dead were buried here in paupers’ graves. During the Obon season the Sentō Kuyō evening ceremony on August 23 and 24 sees thousands of lamps lit to commemorate the spirits of the dead.

Daikaku-ji

大覚寺 • 4 Osawa-chō • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 075 871 0071, daikakuji.or.jp • 25min walk north from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station

The palatial-looking Daikaku-ji was founded in 876, when Emperor Saga ordered that his country villa be converted to a Shingon-sect temple. The main Shin-den hall was moved here from Kyoto’s Imperial Palace in the late sixteenth century and still contains some fine screens painted by renowned artists of the Kanō school. Behind this building is the Shoshin-den, also noted for its panels of a hawk and an endearing group of rabbits. Afterwards you can wander along the banks of the picturesque Ōsawa-ike, Emp eror Saga’s boating lake and a popular spot for viewing the autumn Harvest Moon.

Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama

嵐山モンキーパークいわたやま • 8 Genryokuzan-chō • Daily: mid-March to mid-Nov 9am–5pm; mid-Nov to mid-March 9am–4.30pm • ¥550 • 075 872 0950, kmpi.co.jp • Enter through the torii near the southern end of Togetsu-kyō

Located on the side of Mount Arashiyama, the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama is home to more than 120 Japanese macaque monkeys. The park is also a research centre, and is well worth a visit for a break from the crowds. A steep path winds up Mount Arashiyama to the observation deck, where the monkeys are fed, and from here you can enjoy excellent views of Arashiyama, the Hozu-gawa and Kyoto city.

Senkō-ji

千光寺 • 62 Nakaoshita-chō • Daily 10am–4pm • ¥400 • 075 861 2913, daihikaku.jp • 25min walk from the southern end of Togetsu-kyō

After a pleasant walk alongside the river, then up some steep stone steps near Hoshinoya, you'll come to the tranquil temple of Senkō-ji. There are a few interesting things to look at in the rustic complex, including a bronze prayer bell you're welcome to ring, and the monks are very welcoming and friendly, but the main attraction here is the view. Under fluttering prayer flags on the Kyaku-den (viewing platform), you look out over the Hozu-gawa, the forested mountains, and the city beyond. Binoculars are provided, and for ¥500 you can enjoy green tea and traditional sweets while you relax.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KYOTO

BY PLANE

The nearest airports to Kyoto are Kansai International Airport (KIX), which handles both international and domestic flights, and Osaka International Airport (Itami Airport), which, despite the name, only handles domestic flights.

KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Kansai International Airport (KIX; 関西国際空港; 072 455 2500, kansai-airport.or.jp) is on a man-made island in Osaka Bay, some 35km south of Osaka city centre, and approximately 100km from Kyoto. The international departure lounge is on the fourth floor and domestic departures are on the second floor. Terminal 2 (KIX; 第2 ターミナル; 072 455 2911, kansai-airport.or.jp/en/map/t2) is currently only used by Peach, Jeju and Spring airlines for Asian and some domestic destinations. Shuttle buses connect terminals 1 and 2.

Domestic destinations Fukuoka (5 daily; 1hr); Kagoshima (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Nagasaki (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Naha, Okinawa (11 daily; 1hr 15min); Sapporo (12 daily; 2hr); Sendai (3 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokyo Haneda (13 daily; 1hr); and Tokyo Narita (5 daily; 1hr 15min).

Trains to Kyoto If you’re coming direct from Kansai International Airport, the quickest and easiest option is a JR Haruka Limited Express train, which whisks you direct to Kyoto in around 1hr 15min (¥3430 reserved, ¥2900 unreserved); JR passes are valid on this service for unreserved seats. JR West sells a ICOCA+HARUKA prepaid card for tourists, which includes a good discount on the Haruka ticket ( www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/icoca-haruka). For those not travelling with a JR Pass, a cheaper option is to take an express train from the airport to Osaka Station, then change to an express train on the JR Kyoto line; this takes a little under 2hr and costs about ¥1900.

Buses to Kyoto Comfortable airport limousine buses do the journey into Kyoto in under 2hr, traffic permitting, and terminate on the south (Hachijō-guchi) side of Kyoto Station (1–2 hourly, 6.20am–11.55pm; ¥2600 from ticket vending machine). If you’re heading from Kyoto direct to Kansai Airport, it’s a good idea to reserve your transport in advance. Buses (1–2 hourly, 4.30am–9.40pm; 1hr 45min; ¥2600; 075 682 4400) depart from outside the Avanti department store, just south of Kyoto Station. Tickets are available from the ground floor of the nearby Hotel Keihan Kyoto.

Taxi shuttles There are two “door-to-door” taxi shuttle buses: the MK Skygate shuttle (¥4300; 075 778 5489, mktaxi-japan.com), and the Yasaka Kansai Airport Shuttle (¥4300; 075 803 4800, yasaka.jp/english/shuttle). The ride time varies, depending on the traffic, but will be calculated to get you there on time for check-in. Reservations for both services must be made at least 2 days in advance.

OSAKA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Osaka International Airport (ITM; 大阪国際空港; 06 6856 6781, www.osaka-airport.co.jp) is located in Itami, 10km north of Osaka city centre, and around 50km southwest of Kyoto.

Destinations Akita (6 daily; 1hr 30min); Aomori (6 daily; 1hr 40min); Fukuoka (10 daily; 1hr); Kagoshima (13 daily; 1hr 10min); Kumamoto (9 daily; 1hr 5min); Miyazaki (11 daily; 1hr 5min); Nagasaki (7 daily; 1hr 10min); Naha, Okinawa (5 daily; 1hr 15min); Niigata (10 daily; 1hr 10min); Ōita (7 daily; 1hr); Sapporo (10 daily; 2hr); Sendai (15 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokyo Haneda (30 daily; 1hr); Tokyo Narita (5 daily; 1hr 15min); and Yamagata (3 daily; 1hr 20min).

Trains to Kyoto The easiest way to get to Kyoto by train from Osaka International Airport is to ride the monorail to Hankyū Hotarugaike Station, then take a train to Juso Station where you can change to a Kyoto-bound express train (1hr 15min; ¥660). JR Pass holders will need to take the Hankyū line to its terminus in Umeda and then walk to JR Osaka Station for a Kyoto-bound express train.

Buses to Kyoto Direct limousine buses run between the airport and Kyoto Station (every 25min; 55min; ¥1340; 06 6844 1124, okkbus.co.jp/en).

Taxi shuttles The MK Skygate shuttle (¥3000; 075 778 5489, mktaxi-japan.com) has services between Kyoto and Osaka International Airport. Reservations must be made at least 2 days in advance.

BY TRAIN

Kyoto Station Most visitors arrive in Kyoto at the JR Station. The JR local lines all converge here, and Kyoto is also linked by Shinkansen to Tokyo and Nagoya, in the east, and Osaka, Hiroshima and Fukuoka, to the west. The terminus for the Kintetsu Kyoto line – which links the city to Nara, Kōya-san and Ise – is also located here, next to the Shinkansen station.

Destinations Amanohashidate (4 daily; 2hr); Fukuoka (Hakata Station; 1–2 hourly; 3hr–4hr); Hikone (every hour; 50min); Himeji (1–3 hourly; 50min); Hiroshima (1–2 hourly; 1hr 40min); Ise (2 hourly; 2hr); Kanazawa (1–2 hourly; 2hr); Kansai International (every 30min; 1hr 15min); Kōbe & Shin-Kōbe (1–3 hourly; 30min); Nagoya (every 15min; 40min); Nara (every 15–20min; 40min); Osaka & Shin-Osaka (every 15min; 17min); Toba (hourly; 2hr 20min); Tokyo (every 15min; 2hr 20min–4hr); Toyama (hourly; 2hr 40min); Uji (every 15min; 20min).

BY BUS

Long-distance buses arrive at and depart from terminals either side of Kyoto Station.

JR Highway buses ( www.nishinihonjrbus.co.jp) to Hiroshima, Kanazawa, Kochi, Matsue, Nagano, Nagoya, Takamatsu and Tokyo depart from a stand on the north side of the station.

Keihan Bus ( keihanbus.jp) uses a terminal on the south side of Kyoto Station, outside the Hotel Keihan Kyoto; Keihan services cover Fukuoka, Iga, Kanazawa, Matsue, Okayama, Tokushima, Tokyo and Tottori.

Willer Express ( willerexpress.com) runs services to Fukuoka, Hiroshima, Matsuyama, Niigata, Takayama and Tokyo from the Hachijō exit on the south side of the station.

GETTING AROUND

Walking is the best way to explore Kyoto so that you can avoid using the bus network, which is very congested throughout the year but especially during spring and autumn’s peak visitor seasons. It’s also easier to wander the narrow back lanes on foot. Public transport is useful for getting to further-flung sights, though, and the grid street system makes it fairly easy to navigate on a bike.

KYOTO TRANSPORT PASSES

There are a number of transport passes that make travelling in Kyoto more convenient and economical, especially if you are switching between trains and buses, and JR West offers several passes useful if you're travelling more widely from Kyoto ( www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/pass). IC cards (Suica, Pasmo, etc) are accepted on all subways and buses, too. Many of these passes give you discounts at tourist attractions.

Kyoto One Day Pass Allows travel on City Buses, the subway and most Kyoto Buses (one-day ¥900; two-day ¥1700; oneday-pass.kyoto). Available from train and subway stations and the Kyoto Bus and Subway information centres.

Kansai Thru Pass If you are planning day-trips from Kyoto to other parts of Kansai, this pass (two days ¥4400; three days ¥5500; surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_english.html) is a good option for tourists, as it allows you to use almost any bus, subway or private railway in the region. It can be purchased from major tourist information centres and bus information centres by showing your passport. Can be used on non-consecutive days.

BY SUBWAY

The lines Kyoto’s two subway lines (5.29am–11.49pm; ¥210–350) are the quickest way to scoot around the city. The Karasuma line runs from southerly Takeda (where it connects with the Kintetsu line), via Kyoto Station and Kita-ōji, to Kokusai Kaikan in the north, while the Tōzai line starts at Uzumasa Tenjingawa in the west and cuts east through Sanjō-Keihan and Higashiyama to Rokujizō in the southeast suburbs; the two lines intersect at Karasuma-Oike Station.

Tickets As well as single tickets, you can use an IC card or buy one of the various passes. You can also get a one-day subway pass for ¥600.

BY TRAIN

Hankyū railway Trains on Hankyū railway’s Kyoto line for Osaka (Umeda) run beneath the city centre from Kawaramachi Station west along Shijō-dōri. A branch line heads northwest from Katsura Station in west Kyoto to Arashiyama, where it’s a short walk across the Togetsu-kyō bridge to the main part of town. The Hankyū Tourist Pass allows unlimited travel on the network (one-day ¥700; two-day ¥1200).

JR Local trains on the JR Sagano line run west from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama Station, roughly a 15min walk from the centre of Arashiyama. The JR Nara line runs south through the southern Kyoto suburbs and Uji, and the JR Biwa-ko line runs east through Yamashima, Otsu and Hikone.

Keifuku Railway Also known as Randen, the Keifuku Railway services Arashiyama from Shijō-Ōmiya Station, and Kitano-Hakubai-chō Station in northwest Kyoto. The ¥500 "Randen All-Day Ticket " allows unlimited travel on these lines.

Eizan line In northeast Kyoto, Demachiyanagi is the terminus for the Eizan line, which covers Shūgaku-in Rikyū and Yase-yūen, one of the routes up Hiei-zan.

Keihan mainline services Keihan mainline services start from a separate station in Demachiyanagi and then head south via Sanjō-Keihan to Osaka (Yodoyabashi and Nakanoshima).

Kintetsu-Kyoto line Trains on the Kintetsu-Kyoto line depart from the south side of Kyoto Station, from where they link into the main Kintetsu network, with services to Nara, Kōya-san and Ise.

BY BUS

Kyoto’s bus system is relatively easy to use. The buses are colour-coded, the majority show their route numbers on the front and the most important stops are announced in English, either on the electronic display or over the internal speakers. Within the city there’s a flat fare of ¥230, which you pay on leaving the bus. You enter via the back door, where you may need to take a numbered ticket if the bus is going into the suburbs, though the flat fare still applies within the central zone. Most services stop running around 11pm, or earlier on less popular routes.

Bus companies Services are run by Kyoto City Bus and the far less comprehensive Kyoto Bus. You’ll need to use Kyoto Bus services for Ōhara and Shūgaku-in, but otherwise you can stick to City Bus for the central districts, including Arashiyama.

Maps Before leaping on board, get hold of the English-language Bus Navi route map from the Kyoto Tourist Information Centre, or the Bus Information Centre in front of Kyoto Station. This map shows the central zone boundary and routes operated by both Kyoto City Bus and Kyoto Bus.

Terminals and routes The main bus terminal is outside Kyoto Station’s Karasuma exit. Most routes loop around the city; the most useful is #206, with stops near the National Museum, Gion, Heian-jingū, Daitoku-ji and Nijō-jō. Buses running clockwise leave from boarding platform B, and anticlockwise from boarding platform A. The other major terminals are at Sanjō-Keihan, in east Kyoto, and Kita-ōji in the north. Many routes also converge centrally at Shijō Kawaramachi.

Raku tourist buses The Raku bus routes are tourist buses that stop at major sightseeing spots and have English-language commentary, and are ideal if you want to cover a lot of sights in a short amount of time. Buses #100 and #101 start from Kyoto Station, with Raku #100 travelling up the east side of Kyoto from Kiyomizu-dera to Ginkaku-ji, and Raku #101 heading towards Nijo and then Kinkaku-ji. Raku #102 starts from Ginkaku-ji and then heads across to Kinkaku-ji, where it terminates. The buses operate 8am–5pm, with route #100 buses running every 10min, but #101 and #102 only running every 15 or 30min. You can use any of the prepaid card systems on the Raku buses, or it’s ¥230 per ride.

Tickets The bus companies offer a range of discount tickets. Most convenient is the one-day pass (shi-basu ichi-nichi jyōshaken; ¥600), which allows unlimited travel on City Bus and some Kyoto Bus services within the central zone; these are available at information centres, hotels, bus terminals and from the bus driver. To validate the pass, put it through the machine beside the driver when you get off the first bus – after that, just show it as you exit.

BY BIKE

Renting a bike is a viable option for exploring Arashiyama (where there are rental outlets at each train station; ¥1000/day) and central Kyoto, though not much use along the eastern hills, where you’re better off walking. The bike rental outlets listed below have terminals near Kyoto Station. Be aware that Kyoto City regularly impounds bicycles parked in prohibited zones, such as in front of train and subway stations, and it costs ¥2300, and a lot of effort, to recover them. Check kyoto-bicycle.com/foreigners for official bicycle parks, rules and a list of authorized bike rental shops.

Fuune Rental Cycles 075 354 7070, fuune.jp. Has a good range of electric (from ¥1800/day) and non-electric bicycles (from ¥1000/day), which can be returned by 10am the next day. Daily 9am–6pm.

Kyoto Cycling Tour Project 075 354 3636, kctp.net. Rents various kinds of bikes from ¥1000/day (e-bikes from ¥2300/day), and also arranges tours. Daily 9am–6pm.

Kyoto Eco Trip 075 691 0794, kyoto-option.com. The most basic bicycles cost ¥900/day, and electric bicycles start at ¥2000/day. Daily 9am–6pm.

BY CAR

Car rental outlets with offices near Kyoto Station include Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 075 661 6680, nrgroup-global.com/en), Nissan Rent-a-Car ( 075 661 4123, nissan-rentacar.com), Eki Rent-a-Car ( 075 681 3020, www.ekiren.co.jp), and Europcar ( 075 681 7779, europcar.jp).

BY TAXI

Taxis are useful for hopping short distances – the minimum fare is usually ¥640 for 2km. In 2016 Kyoto initiated a “Foreigner Friendly” taxi service for visitors – with drivers speaking either English or Chinese – at Kyoto Station (9am–5pm); the stand is adjacent to the regular taxi stand on both sides of the station. Alternatively, MK Taxi ( 075 778 4141, mktaxi-japan.com) and Yasaka Taxi ( 075 842 1212, www.yasaka.jp) are both reliable services. Since drivers won’t always speak English, it’s useful to have your destination written down in Japanese.

INFORMATION

Tourist information Kyoto’s main source of information is the Kyoto Tourist Information Centre (daily 8.30am–7pm; 075 343 0548), on the second floor of Kyoto Station next to the main entrance of Isetan department store. In the city centre, there’s a small tourist information office on the west side of Kawaramachi, between Shijō and Sanjō (daily 10am–6pm). In eastern Kyoto, near Nanzen-ji, Kyoto International Community House (Tues–Sun 9am–9pm; 075 752 3010, www.kcif.or.jp/en) is aimed primarily at foreign students and longer-term residents, but will happily assist tourists where possible. Also in eastern Kyoto, the Kyoto Handicraft Centre (daily 10am–7pm; 075 761 8001, kyotohandicraftcenter.com) on Marutamachi has a tourist information office. In Arashiyama, there’s a tourist information booth (daily 9am–5pm) inside the Keifuku station where you can pick up a free map, and one at the southern entrance to JR Saga-Arashiyama Station (daily 9am–4.30pm).

Maps Detailed bilingual maps of Kyoto are available free from the Kyoto Tourist Information Centre.

Listings The free monthly tourist magazine, Kyoto Visitor’s Guide ( kyotoguide.com), is the best source of information regarding what’s on in Kyoto and also has useful maps for sightseeing. It includes details of festivals and cultural events; you can usually pick it up in tourist information offices, major hotels and other tourist haunts. The free monthly Kansai Scene ( kansaiscene.com) magazine also has a good listings section, with the latest on Kyoto events and exhibitions.

Luggage As in the rest of Japan, Yamato Transport's takkyūbin service ( global-yamato.com/en/hands-free-travel) is the most widely available, but Crosta may be cheaper if sending luggage between Kyoto or Osaka hotels, or to/from Kyoto Station or Kansai airport (¥800–2000/item; carry-s.com); it also has a reasonably priced luggage storage facility (¥800/item per day) in Kyoto Station.

Websites Some useful online resources for general Kyoto travel and cultural information are Kyoto Travel Guide ( kyoto.travel) and Inside Kyoto ( insidekyoto.com).

TOURS

CYCLING TOUR

Kyoto Cycling Tour Project 075 354 3636, kctp.net. Daily guided English tours of Kyoto’s backstreets and hidden alleyways (3hr; from ¥6500/person for groups of four), as well as tours of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in east and west Kyoto (8hr; ¥15,600 or ¥17,600/person respectively, for groups of four). The cost includes bicycle rental and any admission fees. Reservations must be made three days in advance.

FOOD AND DRINK TOURS

Haru Cooking School 090 4284 7176, kyoto-cooking-class.com. Weekly cooking classes (2pm; from ¥6900/person for up to eight people) where you'll learn about the essential ingredients of Kyoto cuisine, with plenty of chances to sample an array of pickles, dried fish and traditional sweets. Note, however, that the "vegetarian" cooking class still uses dashi (fish stock).

Kyoto Insider Sake Experience kyotosakeexperience.com. English-language tours in southeast Kyoto's historic Fushimi district, renowned for its nihonshu (sake). Some focus only on tasting and food pairing (1hr 30min; 1pm or 6.30pm; ¥6000/person) while others include a tour of the area's largest brewery (3hr; 10am or 3pm; ¥8500/person).

JINRIKISHA TOURS

Tours in traditional jinrikisha – two-seater rickshaws (the name means “man-powered vehicle”) – depart from jinrikisha stations in front of Heian-jingū near Nanzen-ji ( 075 533 0444, ebisuya.com) and at Arashiyama ( 075 864 4444) on the northwest side of Togetsu-kyō bridge, and cover three routes: Kiyomizu-dera to Yasaka-jinja, Heian-jingū to Ginkaku-ji, and around Arashiyama. Tours (daily 9.30am–sunset) last from 30min (¥7000 for one person, ¥9000 for two) to 3hr (¥32,500 for one, ¥47,500 for two), depending on the route and whether you want to stop and take photos. Some of the jinrikisha-pullers speak English and will be able to give you a commentary on the sights.

WALKING TOURS

Cool Kyoto Walking Tour 077 377 5514, cool-kyotowalk.net. A fun, theatrical-style exploration of Kyoto on foot, from Teramachi to the Imperial Park area, with “last samurai” Joe Okada (Sat 9.45am–3pm; ¥4000/person; includes a light lunch).

The Deepest Kyoto Tour deepestkyototour.com. Tours of machiya townhouse architecture andKiyomizu pottery artisans, plus other artisan tours (from ¥5000/person for a group of 10 or more, up to ¥14,000 for a one-on-one tour).

Geisha Culture Walking Lecture kyotosightsandnights.com. Run by long-term resident Peter Macintosh, this 1hr 30min, small-group tour (¥3000/person; 2–15 people) winds through the backstreets of Gion and Miyagawa-chō districts, and provides a chance to learn about where geisha live, study and entertain, accompanied by Macintosh’s personal anecdotes.

Kyoto Insider Nijō Castle Tour 075 252 6636, kyotovisitorshost.com/en/nijo-jo.html. English-language tours of Nijō-jō, which include a visit to an otherwise inaccessible section. Guides are knowledgeable and friendly, pointing out and explaining fascinating details you might otherwise miss (daily 10am & noon; 1hr; ¥1000/person, not including castle entry fee).

The Kyoto Sagano Walk kyotosaganowalk.main.jp. This 3hr tour (Tues & Thurs 10am; ¥2000) is a good way to discover some of Arashiyama’s lesser-known sites on foot. Tours meet outside the ticket gate at JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. Reservations are not necessary.

Waraido 075 752 7070, waraido.com/walking. Waraido’s Daytime Walking Tour takes small groups on a slow amble through southern Kyoto from Higashi-Hongan-ji to the eastern hills (March–Nov Mon, Wed & Fri, except national holidays, 10am to mid-afternoon; ¥2000/person).

ACCOMMODATION

Kyoto’s accommodation options range from basic guesthouses, capsule hotels, youth hostels and temple lodgings (shukubō) to luxurious international hotels and top-class ryokan. One night in a full-blown Kyoto ryokan, enjoying some of the world’s most meticulous service, is an experience not to be missed. Increasingly, old Kyoto houses (machiya) are being developed into guesthouses, offering visitors the chance to experience traditional Kyoto life. It’s essential to make reservations at these places as far in advance as possible, but all accommodation in Kyoto gets very busy in spring and autumn, at holiday weekends and around the major festivals; room rates rise considerably during these times. In terms of where to stay, central Kyoto is a popular choice for its easy access to the main shops and nightlife, and good transport links. The area around the station may not be as pleasant as other parts of Kyoto but it’s undoubtedly convenient, with an abundance of inexpensive accommodation. It’s also worth considering east Kyoto, where many places are in quieter, more attractive surroundings but also within walking distance of Gion and the city centre. The range of accommodation in northwest Kyoto is increasing and the area is a good base for exploring the northern part of the city, as well as Arashiyama.

CENTRAL KYOTO MAP

9h Nine Hours ナインアワーズ Teramachi-dōri Shijō-sagaru 075 353 7337, ninehours.co.jp. The design of this capsule hotel is minimalist bordering on sci-fi, and the capsules are actually quite spacious sleeping pods. After check-in, female and male guests take separate lifts to pods, lockers and shower rooms. Impeccably clean and comfortable and in a convenient central location, though as with all capsule hotels, earplugs are recommended in case of noisy neighbours. Price varies considerably by day. Capsules ¥7900

Hiiragiya 柊家旅館 Fuyachō Anekoji-agaru 075 221 1136, hiiragiya.co.jp. One of the city’s most famous ryokan, since the mid-nineteenth century it has hosted the rich and famous, including Elizabeth Taylor and Charlie Chaplin. You need to book well in advance, but it’s worth it for a quintessential Kyoto experience. Choose between the charming traditional and stylish modern wings. ¥70,400

Itoya Hotel 糸屋ホテル Karasuma Matsubara-agaru 075 365 1221, itoyahotel.com. Pleasant boutique hotel in a nice central location with friendly staff. The stylish rooms are compact but comfortable. ¥21,000

Kyoto Brighton Hotel 京都ブライトンホテル Shinmachi Nakadachiuri-dōri 075 441 4411, brightonhotels.co.jp/kyoto. Top-end hotel in a quiet residential area a stone’s throw from the Imperial Palace, with particularly spacious and comfortable rooms. The service is efficient and friendly. The only downside is the rather pricey in-house restaurants. ¥29,000

The Millennials Kyoto ザミレニアルズ京都 235 Yamazaki-chō 075 212 6887, the-millennials-kyoto-jp.book.direct. Right in the heart of the action on Kawaramachi-dōri, Millennials takes the capsule hotel concept and upgrades it. Pods are wider than usual, with a large bed which slides up into a sofa so you've got room to change; luggage is stored underneath it. The lounge and co-working space are excellent, and there's breakfast for around ¥500. Bike rental available. Price varies considerably by day. Capsules ¥5320

Mitsui Garden Hotel Kyoto Sanjō 三井ガーデンホテル京都三条 80 Mikura-chō, Sanjō Karasuma Nishi-iru 075 256 3331, www.gardenhotels.co.jp/kyoto-sanjo. Conveniently located very close to the Karasuma-Sanjō shopping area, this mid-range hotel is surprisingly good value. There’s an onsen bath that is open to guests in the morning and evening. ¥31,000

Nishiyama Ryokan 西山旅館 433 Yamamoto-chō, Nijō-sagaru 075 222 1166, ryokan-kyoto.com More a hotel than a ryokan, with Japanese and Western-style rooms, the Nishiyama is comfortable, good value and close to all the downtown shopping and sightseeing areas. There’s an onsen bath in the basement and free monthly cultural events (tea ceremony, calligraphy) held in the lobby. ¥28,000

Oil Street Guest Houseオイルストリートゲストハウス 87-2 Mizuochi-chō 075 432 8867, oilstreetkyoto.com. This large machiya on a quiet street in Nishijin has been nicely renovated into a guesthouse and event space, and has a kitchen for guests' use. There are two rooms with en-suite bathrooms which can both sleep up to four guests on futons. Book well in advance. ¥20,000

Palace-Side Hotel ザ・パレスサイドホテル Karasuma Shimodachiuri-agaru 075 415 8887, palacesidehotel.co.jp. Large hotel overlooking the Imperial Palace, with good views from the higher, more expensive rooms. Nothing fancy, and the rooms are small, but it’s excellent value for the location, just 3min north of Marutamachi subway station. Substantial discounts if you stay six days or more. ¥11,800

Petit Hotel Kyotoプチホテル京都 281 Motosa-chō 075 431 5136, ph-kyoto.co.jp. Small, friendly hotel on busy Imadegawa-dōri in Nishijin that’s convenient for exploring the north and west. The traditional Kyoto breakfast with fresh tofu is excellent (¥700). Bicycle rental available. ¥14,800

Piece Hostel Sanjo ピースホステル三条 Tominōkoji-dōri, Asakura-chō 075 746 3688, piecehostel.com/sanjo. Central Kyoto’s best budget option, this stylish hostel is in an excellent location and is clean and well organized. It is housed in two equally enticing modern buildings; the one on the east side of the street opened in 2018, the one opposite renovated in 2020. The emphasis is on shared space for travellers to communicate with each other. Simple breakfast included. Dorms ¥3000, doubles ¥9000

The Screen ザ・スクリーン Teramachi-dōri Marutamachi-sagaru 075 252 1113, screen-hotel.jp/en. Kyoto’s first major boutique hotel is tastefully decorated with contemporary designs of traditional Kyoto crafts – from the lamps to the upholstery. Rooms are spacious and equipped with espresso machines. The in-house French restaurant uses local ingredients, and the champagne terrace has great views over the Imperial Park. ¥40,000

Tawaraya 俵屋旅館 Fuyachō Anekoji-agaru 075 211 5566, 075 221 2204. The epitome of Kyoto elegance and refinement, this exquisite ryokan is so exclusive it doesn’t even have a website. Impeccable service, and gorgeous interior gardens. ¥114,000

Urban Hotel Kyoto Nijo Premium アーバンホテル京都ニ条プレミアム 25-5 Juraku-mawari Minami-machi 075 813 1177, uh-urban.com/nijo. Close to JR Nijō Station and the subway, this smart, modern hotel has comfortable rooms decorated with kimono fabric. On the top floor there’s a shared bath for guests only. The in-house restaurant, which can be entered from the street, is excellent. ¥17,820

Yoshikawa Ryokan 吉川旅館 Tominokoji Oike-sagaru 075 221 5544, kyoto-yoshikawa.co.jp/en. Intimate, traditional ryokan that’s renowned for its tempura kaiseki cuisine. Cypress-wood baths, an immaculate garden and all the understated luxury you could want in a traditional setting. ¥98,000

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Hotel Granvia Kyoto ホテルグランヴィア京都 Karasuma Chūō-guchi Shiokoji-sagaru 075 344 8888, granviakyoto.com. Deluxe hotel incorporated into the Kyoto Station building, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking southern Kyoto, and decorated with works by local artists. Facilities include a good range of restaurants and bars, an indoor swimming pool, boutiques and business suites. ¥30,000

Hotel Kanra Kyoto ホテルカンラ京都 Karasuma-dōri Rokujō-sagaru 075 344 3815, www.hotelkanra.jp/en. Beautiful, spacious rooms and suites offering a modern take on machiya style, located right next to Higashi-Hongan-ji. From the lounge to the shop, traditional crafts are at the forefront; you can even watch kintsugi, the art of repairing broken ceramics with gold, in progress. Breakfast ¥2000. ¥39,000

Kyoto Tokyu Hotel 京都東急ホテル Horikawa-dōri Gojō-sagaru 075 341 2411, tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/kyoto-h. A short walk from Nishi-Hongan-ji, the Kyoto Tokyu Hotel offers spacious Western- and Japanese-style rooms and several excellent dining options. The Terrace is a relaxing spot for tea or a cocktail, by a gently flowing waterfall, while the newly opened Roof Top Bar (May–Oct only) is perfect on a warm summer evening. ¥30,000

Lower East Nine Hostel ロウワーイーストナインホステル Minami Karasuma-chō 075 644 9990, lowereastnine.com. Stylish new hostel south of Kyoto Station with an in-house coffee counter (lattes ¥400). Dorms have wide bunk beds and shared bathrooms, while there’s a choice of bunks or beds for the twin rooms. Breakfast included. Dorms ¥3840, twins ¥10,900

Piece Hostel Kyoto ピースホステル京都 21-1 Higashi Kujō Higashisanno-chō 075 693 7077, piecehostel.com/kyoto. Sleek modern backpacker hostel on the south side of Kyoto Station. Dorms and private rooms are functional, clean and well equipped. Shared spaces include a BBQ terrace and lounge with a library of art books. Breakfast included. Dorms ¥2900, doubles ¥7600

Shizuya Ryokan しづや旅館 460 Zaimoku-chō 075 351 2726, shizuya-kyoto.com. This formerly traditional ryokan has recently been renovated as a modern minimalist-style guesthouse. It has dormitories, twin rooms and even a hanare annexe, which is perfect for groups. There’s also an adjacent coffee shop that serves curry and rice meals. Dorms ¥4000, doubles ¥8500

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Book & Bed Hostel ブック＆ベッドホステル 200 Nakano-chō 075 201 3374, bookandbedtokyo.com/en/kyoto. If you love books then this hostel is a treat: you crawl into a capsule-like space between the bookshelves to sleep, though there’s not a lot of privacy. There are also some river-view rooms. Bike rental is available, too. Women only. No cash payments. Dorms ¥4700, rooms ¥6200

Four Seasons Kyoto フォーシーズンス京都 445-3 Myohin Maekawa-chō 075 541 8288, fourseasons.com/kyoto. This newly opened super-luxury hotel is stunning in every way – location, architecture, interior design and food. Built on the grounds of a twelfth-century estate, the outlook from the common areas and rooms is exceptional. ¥103,000

Gion Guesthouse IKKUU 祇園ゲストハウス一空 400-6 Nishigomon-chō Matsubara-sagaru 075 741 6544, guesthouse-ikkuu.com. Hidden down a sidestreet in Gion, this cosy guesthouse is packed with unusual antiques. The tatami rooms are small but comfortable, and the owner, Hiro-san, is friendly and helpful. The very cheapest room has bunk beds, while the most expensive overlooks a tiny, beautiful garden. An excellent price for the area. Cash only. ¥8650

Gion Hatanaka 祇園畑中 Yasaka-jinja Minamimon-mae 075 541 5315, thehatanaka.co.jp. Elegant ryokan in a fabulous location near Yasaka-jinja with quiet, spacious rooms. It effortlessly blends traditional service with modern style – don’t miss their Kyoto cuisine and maiko evening. ¥82,000

Hyatt Regency Kyoto ハイアットリージェンシー京都 644-2 Sanjūsangendo-mawari 075 541 1234, kyoto.regency.hyatt.com. Modern luxury hotel right next to Sanjūsangen-dō, with an emphasis on contemporary Japanese style – guest-room interiors are sleekly decorated with Kyoto fabrics. There are three in-house restaurants to choose from, and the spa specializes in traditional Japanese therapies. ¥57,700

Mume Boutique Hotel ホテルムメ 261 Umemoto-chō 075 525 8787, hotelmume.jp. This charming boutique hotel is tucked away on a street of antique shops in Gion and overlooks the Shirakawa canal. The seven rooms are tastefully decorated with antique furniture. Staff are both discreet and attentive, and you also get complimentary cappuccinos and cocktails. All rates include breakfast. ¥25,000

Waraku-An 和楽庵 19-2 Sannō-cho 075 771 5575, kyotoguesthouse.net. Conveniently located machiya guesthouse, northwest of Heian-jingū. All the rooms are traditional in style and have shared bathing facilities. The deluxe room next to the garden is recommended for its pleasant outlook and can sleep up to four. Dorms ¥2950, doubles ¥7000

Yoshida Sansō 吉田山荘 59-1 Shimo Ōji-chō 075 771 6125, yoshida-sanso.com. Located on Mt Yoshida, this high-class ryokan is the former second residence of the current emperor’s uncle. With such imperial associations, don’t be surprised if your room has a historical connection, not to mention a lovely garden view. Kaiseki cuisine is served (dinner from ¥19,000) and there’s also an in-house tea salon. Rates include breakfast. ¥64,250

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Daishin-in 大心院 57 Myōshinji-chō 075 461 5714. Located in historic Myōshinji, this peaceful shukubō is one of surprisingly few which actually allows you to sleep in the temple, not an annex. Rooms are simple, separated by sliding shōji screens, and there's a (non-compulsory) morning service from 6am followed by a shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) breakfast. Dinner is also available (¥4000; book ahead). Cash only; you'll have to phone to make a reservation. ¥10,000

Expo Hostel Ori エキスポホステル織 2-4 Fujinomori-chō 080 7825 0249, expohostel.info. Nicely renovated building with clean, modern interiors in the northern part of Nishijin, the weaving district. The Japanese-style rooms have tatami and comfortable futons, and there’s also a shared kitchen. For just ¥500, you can rent a bike for the duration of your stay. ¥6400

Kingyoya 金魚家 243 Kanki-chō 075 411 1128, kingyoya-kyoto.com. Small and friendly guesthouse in a tastefully restored machiya located in the heart of Nishijin. Dorm rooms and private rooms have traditional interiors, and breakfast is available for an extra ¥700. Dorms ¥3200, doubles ¥6800

Sakura Komachi Guesthouse ゲストハウス桜こまち 10-2 Kinugasa Gaino-chō 075 406 1930, kyoto-sakurakomachi.com. Friendly guesthouse close to Kinkaku-ji and Ryōan-ji with an in-house café (lunch from ¥780). There’s a shared dormitory as well as a choice of Western- and Japanese-style private rooms. Wi-fi only in public areas. ¥7900

Shunkō-in 春光院 42 Myōshinji-chō 075 462 5488, shunkoin.com/stay. Welcoming and peaceful temple lodging in Myōshinji, run by an American-educated Zen priest. All rooms are tatami-style with futons and private baths, and shared kitchen facilities are available. Zen meditation class and tour daily at 9.30am (¥1500). Free bike rental. ¥16,900

Utano Youth Hostel 宇多野ユースホステル 29 Nakayama-chō Uzumasa 075 462 2288, yh-kyoto.or.jp/utano_en. Award-winning modern hostel with a good atmosphere and helpful, English-speaking staff. Set in its own grounds on Kyoto’s western outskirts, it has an excellent range of facilities. The dorms are very clean and comfortable and there are also Japanese- and Western-style doubles with private baths. Dorms ¥3450, doubles ¥8220

ARASHIYAMA MAP

Arashiyama Benkei Ryokan 嵐山辨慶旅館 34 Susukinobaba-chō 075 872 3355, benkei.biz. This small, high-class ryokan sits elegantly on the northern bank of the Hozu-gawa with Tenryū-ji at its rear. Located on the estate of a Heian court noble, the ryokan and its beautiful gardens have a special atmosphere. ¥131,500

Hoshinoya Kyoto 星のや 11-2 Genryokuzan-chō 050 3786 1144, hoshinoyakyoto.jp. From a special jetty near Togetsu-kyō, guests are transported by boat upriver to this luxury ryokan on the banks of the Hozu-gawa, just below Senkō-ji. Every room (or "guest pavilion") is exquisite, and the service is both unobtrusive and attentive. Guests can enjoy complimentary Japanese confectionary on arrival in the chic Kura bar, and free tea and snacks on a terrace overlooking the river. Activities change with the seasons, from a tea ceremony under the autumn leaves to a guided walk through the fresh spring forest. A truly relaxing and restorative stay. ¥133,900

EATING

It’s worth treating yourself to a meal in a traditional Kyō-ryōri (Kyoto cuisine) restaurant, such as kaiseki (a multi-course banquet of seasonal delicacies), obanzai (home-style cooking), shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) or yūdōfu (simmered tofu). Nishin soba, a big bowl of soba noodles with a part-dried piece of herring on top, and saba-zushi, made with mackerel, are two of the more everyday Kyoto dishes. Reservations are nearly always essential at top-end kaiseki restaurants in the evening; elsewhere it’s not a bad idea to book ahead for weekends and holidays. Kyoto also has some excellent coffee shops and teahouses.

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RESTAURANTS

AWOMBアウーム 405 Nanba-chō 050 3177 5277, awomb.com. One of the most artistic meals in Kyoto, this restaurant serves teori sushi, “hand weaving sushi” – tiny morsels of Kyō-ryōri flavours beautifully presented on a slate (Standard ¥1900, Supreme ¥3300). You then add seasoning to taste and handroll each piece in seaweed. The flavours pair nicely with Kyoto sake (¥1000). Arrive early at lunch or you’ll have to queue; reservations essential in the evening. Last orders 1hr before closing. Daily 11.30am–3pm & 6–8.30pm.

Anzukko 杏っ子 2F Le Shisemme Building Ebisu-chō 075 211 3801, anzukko.com. The place to go for gourmet gyōza in Kyoto. Mouthwatering variations on fried, grilled and steamed dumplings. The pan-grilled 12 gyōza set (¥1200) and the boiled seafood dumplings dribbled with spicy oil (¥750) are highly recommended. Tues–Sat 6.30–11.30pm, Sun 6–11pm.

Giro Giro Hitoshina 枝魯枝魯ひとしな Nishi Kiyamachi Matsubara-sagaru 075 343 7070, guiloguilo.com. Hip restaurant serving an innovative ten-course meal at the excellent price of ¥4000. Dishes are a fusion of traditional Japanese and European cuisine, making for a fun dining experience. Reservations are essential well in advance. Tues–Sat 5.30–11pm.

Grand Burger クランドバーガー Shinyodomae-chō 075 256 7317, grand-burger.com. Small restaurant serving tasty burgers with handcut chips. The Grand Burger set (¥1500) with thickly sliced bacon and two types of cheese is recommended, as is the Avocado Burger set (¥1300). Mon–Sat 11am–9pm; closed third Mon of the month

Gyoza no Ohsho 餃子の王将 430 Tatsuike-chō 075 251 0177, bit.ly/ohshokyoto. A stylish branch of the well-known Ohsho chain, with superior decor and menu. The speciality here is gyōza, with some unique flavour combinations such fried gyōza with cheese and chilli sauce (¥420) and boiled gyōza in sour cream and butter (¥530). Other Chinese-style dishes such as fried rice with Kyoto pickles (¥640) are also available. Mon–Sat 11am–midnight, Sun & public hols 11am–10pm.

Hale 晴 198-1 Higashi-Uomachi Nishiki-kōji 075 231 2516, kyoto-nishiki.or.jp/stores/hale. Organic and vegan restaurant in a quaint machiya with a garden, down a narrow entrance off the bustling Nishiki food market. Lunch sets are very reasonable at ¥1000, and six-course dinner sets (¥2200), with deliciously fresh tofu and steamed vegetables, can be shared between two. Tues–Sun 11.30am–3pm & 6–9pm.

Honke Owariya 本家尾張屋 Nishiki-koji Fuyachō Nishi-iru 075 231 2516, honke-owariya.co.jp. Lovely old soba restaurant in business since 1465, with a wide variety of hot and cold soba and udon noodle dishes on the menu. The local favourite Nishin soba is ¥1430, and the simple Seiro soba set (served cold in summer) is just ¥990. Daily 11am–7pm.

Kaji かじ 112-19 Yokokaji-chō 075 231 3801, kyoto-kaji.jp. Reasonably priced, classic kaiseki is served in a traditional setting at this restaurant, which has a hushed and slightly frosty atmosphere. Each of the ten courses is impeccably presented, with ingredients and even edible flowers to evoke the season. The cheapest Yuki course (¥4500) is a good first-time choice. Reservations essential. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun noon–3.30pm & 5.30–10.30pm.

Kiln キルン 194 Sendo-chō Shijō-sagaru 075 353 3555, kilnrestaurant.jp. Stylish modern restaurant overlooking the Takase-gawa with shared table seating. The menu is fusion-style using local ingredients – monkfish and shiitake terrine, for instance (¥1375). No vegetarian options among the set lunches. Evening cover charge ¥300. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 6pm–midnight, Sat & Sun noon–3pm & 6pm–midnight.

Kushikura 串くら 584 Hiiragi-chō 075 213 2211, kushikura.jp. Premium yakitori and other skewer foods in a nicely restored old Kyoto house. Sit at the counter and watch the chefs grill your food over charcoal, or enjoy the privacy of the small dining rooms. Sets start at ¥2000, or you can order skewers separately (from ¥240). Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10.30pm.

Kyoto Engine Ramen 京都炎神 452-1 Matsugae-chō 075 744 1241, n35engine.com. Bustling ramen restaurant with excellent vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Just get a ticket from the vending machine, hand it to the chef and minutes later you'll have a steaming bowl of fresh noodles. The Zesty Vegan Ramen (¥1230) is a particularly good choice. Cash only. Mon–Fri 11.30am–3.30pm & 5–9.30pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–9.30pm.

Menbakaichidai Ramen めん馬鹿一代ラーメン 757-2 Iseya-chō 075 812 5818, fireramen.com/menbaka. If you like your ramen served with maximum drama and a high level of danger, then a visit here is a must: your ramen (¥1485) will arrive on fire, and the friendly staff will even film it for you. Touristy but fun. Daily 11am–11pm.

Nicolas 二コラ 69-3 Itsuji-cho 075 431 7567, sobaya-nicolas.com. Michelin-starred soba restaurant in Nishijin with some excellent innovative buckwheat dishes. The best way to enjoy them is to order a tapas-style selection of three dishes (¥1200) with a side dish of soba noodles (from ¥990). Food photography is strictly forbidden here. 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–8.30pm; closed Wed & first and third Tues of the month.

Waka 和香 397-9 Shinkai-chō 090 9707 6191, oterahouse.com/cafe. Friendly restaurant, dishing up delicious and healthy shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian) lunch sets (¥1000, or ¥600 to take away), with four seasonal vegetable dishes, rice and soup. Arrive early or call ahead to check availability as they sell out quickly. It’s also a pleasant place to have an organic coffee (¥400). Wed–Sat 11.30am–3pm.

Yoshikawa 吉川 Tominokōji Ōike-sagaru 075 221 5544, kyoto-yoshikawa.co.jp/en. The best tempura restaurant in Kyoto is located inside this eponymous ryokan. It’s worth sitting at the counter to watch the chefs expertly deep-fry your meal. Lunch sets (¥3300) include hearty portions of seafood and vegetables, while in the evenings, the tempura supper (¥9200) or tempura kaiseki course (from ¥13,800) are both recommended. Daily 11am–1.30pm & 5–8pm (last orders).

CAFÉS

Gen 玄 127 Keikain-chō 080 2400 9659, takeout-gen.com. This takeaway-only spot in the Nishijin area is ideal for a quick, tasty picnic lunch. Most items are vegetarian, and all are gluten free. The menu changes regularly, but a generous portion of rice and curry is ¥900, and cakes are around ¥500. Tues–Sat noon–7pm.

Ikariya Coffee イカリヤコーヒー 75 Ayanokōji-dōri 050 3312 9647, ikariyacoffekyoto.gorp.jp. Friendly café decorated with pale wood and plenty of greenery, focused on making high-quality coffee (from ¥385). Also serves deliciously light, bouncy baumkuchen (¥330). Tues–Sun 8am–6pm.

AROUND KYOTO STATION MAP

RESTAURANTS

Ramen Alley 京都拉麺小路 10F Isetan, Kyoto Station kyoto-ramen-koji.com. Eight ramen noodle shops, serving Kyoto, Osaka, Hakata, Sapporo and other varieties, are tucked into this “alley” on the tenth floor of Kyoto Station’s Isetan department store. Some of the shops display English menus outside. When you’ve chosen, buy a ticket from the vending machine outside (from ¥550) and hand it to the staff when you are seated. Daily 10am–10pm.

Tonkatsu Wako とんかつ和幸 11F Isetan, Kyoto Station 075 342 0024, wako-group.co.jp/en. The Kyoto Station branch of this well-known tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) restaurant serves good-value lunch and dinner sets. All sets come with rice, cabbage salad and miso soup – try the Hirekatsu Gohan set (¥1200). Daily 11am–10pm.

Veg Out ベグアウト 1F Kamogawa Bldg, 448 Inari-chō 075 748 1124, tamisa-yoga.com/cafe. Looking right over the river, on a sunny day Veg Out is the perfect place to, well, veg out. The menu at this bright, breezy café is all vegan, and ranges from fresh smoothies (around ¥700) to soup with bread and salad (¥850) and cakes (from ¥450). Mon–Sun 8am–8pm.

CAFÉ

Kaikado Cafe 開化堂カフェ 352 Sumiyoshi-chō 075 353 5668, kaikado-cafe.jp. Recently opened café in an atmospheric old fire station, run by a traditional tea-caddy maker. Drinks are stylishly presented but pricey (house-blend coffee ¥850, Gyokuro green tea ¥900), and the food menu consists of cheesecake set or toast sets (from ¥1150). Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 10.30am–7pm; closed first Wed of the month.

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If you want to treat yourself to traditional Kyoto cuisine, the city’s eastern districts are a good place to head. One or two of the more affordable restaurants are recommended below, and these still offer a glimpse into the world of kimono-clad waitresses, elegant tatami rooms, carp ponds and tinkling bamboo waterspouts.

RESTAURANTS

Gion Okuoka 祇園おくおか 44-66 Bishamon-chō Higashiōji-dōri 075 531 5155, okuoka.com. At this friendly restaurant specializing in Kyoto cuisine you can make fresh yuba (tofu skin) at your table (under ¥3000). In the evening, they serve kaiseki courses from ¥6500 and a yuba pot course (under ¥4000). English menu available. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10pm.

KYOTO COFFEE

Kyoto is famous for its siphon coffee technique, which was brought to Japan in the early twentieth century; the method often produces a bitter brew, which has traditionally been the local taste. In the last few years there’s been a boom in speciality roasters, and Kyoto now has an impressive number of fine coffee shops with world-class baristas.

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Café Phalam カフェパラン 24 Hokusei-chō 075 496 4843. Directly in front of JR Nijō Station, this speciality coffee shop is renowned for its smooth espresso (¥350) and delicious French press coffee (¥500). Daily 9am–6pm.

Kissa Master 喫茶マスター 26 Nakano-chō 075 231 6828, facebook.com/KissaMaster. The baristas at this coffee shop, situated at the back of a men’s fashion boutique, make excellent lattes in large cups (¥550), made even more enjoyable by the wonderful view of a traditional Japanese garden. Mon & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–7.30pm.

Weekenders ウィークエンダーズ 560 Honeyano-chō weekenderscoffee.com. The downtown coffee shop of this highly esteemed coffee roaster is in a newly built traditional house incongruously located at the back of an ugly car park. However, the cappuccinos (¥500) make up for the uninspiring setting. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 7.30am–6pm.

NORTH AND NORTHWEST KYOTO MAP

Latte Art Junkies ラテアートジャンキーズ 839-3 Kamiyagawa-chō 075 463 6677, junkies-cafe.com/kitano.html. Popular coffee bar near Kitano Tenmangu shrine. The owner is a latte art champion and serves up fabulous caffe lattes (¥450) as well as matcha lattes (¥550). Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–6pm.

Hyōtei 瓢亭 35 Kusagawa-chō Nanzen-ji 075 771 4116, hyotei.co.jp/en. Next to Murin-an garden, this sublime thatch-roofed garden-restaurant started serving kaiseki cuisine in 1837. Their specialities are asagayu, a summer breakfast (served July & Aug 8–10am; ¥6330), and uzuragayu (rice gruel with quail eggs) in winter (served Dec to mid-March 11am–2pm; ¥13,800). Prices are lower in the new annexe, but even here expect to pay ¥4600 for the cheapest meal. Reservations are essential. 11am–7.30pm.

Kyoto Modern Terrace 京都モダンテラス 13 Okazaki Saishoji-chō 075 754 0234, kyotomodernterrace.com. Part of the renovated Rohn Theatre complex, this spacious, 1960s-styled restaurant, with an outdoor terrace, is both elegant and welcoming. The food menu is based on grilled vegetables, meat and seafood, with scrumptious sets for breakfast (from ¥880), lunch (from ¥3080) and dinner (¥4180). Daily 8am–11pm.

Mame-cha 豆ちゃ Yasaka-jinja Nanmon-sagaru Ishibekōji 075 532 2788, 24-seasons.net/mamecha/kyoto. Elegant obanzai restaurant in a modern machiya up one of Kyoto’s most scenic alleyways, just south of Yasaka-jinja. The eleven-course dinner (¥4950) has a wonderful combination of flavours and is beautifully presented. Counter seating or tatami rooms upstairs, plus English-speaking staff and menu. Reservations essential. Daily 5–11pm.

Nakamura-rō 中村楼 509 Gion-machi Minami-gawa 075 561 0016, nakamurarou.com. A wonderful 400-year-old restaurant adjacent to the south gate of Yasaka-jinja serving exquisite Kyoto cuisine. It’s surprisingly relaxed and informal, with tatami rooms overlooking a lush garden and a modern room with counter seating. However, even just a lunchtime bentō will set you back ¥6600. Full kaiseki dinners start at ¥12,000. Reservations essential. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–7pm.

Okutan 奥丹 Fukuchi-chō, Nanzen-ji 075 771 8709. This small restaurant has been serving yūdōfu (simmered tofu) since the fourteenth century. It’s half hidden in a bamboo grove on the east side of the Chōshō-in garden, just outside Nanzen-ji. The yūdōfu sets start at ¥3300. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–4pm.

Omen おめん Jōdo-ji Shibashi-chō 075 771 8994; omen.co.jp. Excellent udon restaurant near Ginkaku-ji, serving bowls of thick white noodles topped with the nutritious combination of fresh ginger, sesame seeds and pickled daikon radish (from ¥1150). The seasonal vegetable salad (¥900) is also delicious. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–3.30pm & 5–9pm.

Rokusei 六盛 71 Okazaki Nishitenno-chō 075 751 6171, rokusei.co.jp. Rokusei has been serving Kyō-ryōri in this location for over a hundred years, and its retro interior is still stuck in the 1970s. The best meal to experience here is lunch, when you can sample the Teoke Bentō (¥3300), prepared under the supervision of a National Living Treasure and served in a handmade wooden pail. Tues–Fri 11.30am–2pm & 4–9pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–9pm.

CAFÉS

Kuroganeya Rail Model & Cafe くろがねや 44-7 Hōnenin-chō 075 752 8450, www4.plala.or.jp/kuroganeya-kyoto. Cluttered and eccentric café with very helpful owners and a large collection of antique model trains, some of which are for sale. The only food on the menu is fried pork cutlet toast (¥1100) and cake (¥440), served with coffee or juice (¥550). Mon & Thurs–Sun 11am–6pm.

NORTH AND WEST KYOTO MAP

RESTAURANTS

Gontaro 権太呂 26 Hirano Miyaziki-chō 075 463 1039, gontaro.co.jp/english/kinkakuji.html. Suburban branch of the Shijō soba shop in an old house just a few minutes’ walk west of Kinkaku-ji. Fresh noodle dishes (tempura soba ¥1540) and a welcoming atmosphere. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–9.30pm.

Ichibaku Nanasai 一麦七菜 32-3 Shimowakakusa-chō 075 431 4970, facebook.com/ichibakunanasai. This friendly udon restaurant serves delicious handmade noodles in exquisite ceramic bowls. In summer, the Reinanasai udon (¥900) with Kyoto vegetables in a cool soup is refreshing. At other times try the Yuba-kizami udon (¥770) with tofu skin and kamaboko fish cake. Mon & Wed–Thurs 11.30am–3pm, Fri–Sun 11.30am–3pm & 5–8.30pm.

Izusen 泉仙 Daitoku-ji 075 491 6665, kyoto-izusen.com/html2/restrant_daijiin.html. Located in the gardens of Daiji-in, a sub-temple of Daitoku-ji, this is one of the nicest places to sample vegetarian shōjin-ryōri at an affordable price, though it’s still around ¥3850 for the simplest lunch. Reservations recommended in spring and autumn. Daily 11am–4pm.

Margaux Ramen まあごラーメン 1015-3 Kamiyagawa-chō 075 464 3308. The owner of this ramen shop, a French wine lover, created the delicious Tomato Ramen (¥825) to be drunk with a glass of red. There are some other unusual Western-inspired noodle soups on the menu too, such as Milk Ramen (¥825), pork and chicken stock in a milk sauce, with a slice of butter. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–3.30pm & 6–11pm.

KYOTO FOOD AND TEA CULTURE CLASSES

It’s possible to study Kyoto’s culinary arts and tea culture at venues around the city. The main advantage of taking a class is to gain some insights into Kyoto’s enduring food and tea traditions and special techniques, and to spend time with local people.

COOKING CLASSES

Haru Cooking Class Shimogamo Miyazaki-chō 090 4284 7176, kyoto-cooking-class.com. Fun and friendly cooking class run by a charming young couple out of their home kitchen. They offer vegetarian and non-vegetarian (including Kōbe Beef) courses, and give useful explanations of essential ingredients and the fundamentals of Japanese cuisine such as dashi (stock) making (¥6900–12,900/person). Daily at 2pm.

Uzuki Cooking School Shirakawa-dōri Imadegawa-agaru kyotouzuki.com. This cooking school in northeastern Kyoto holds classes for two to four people in seasonal Kyoto cuisine, mostly on weekday afternoons. The enthusiastic instructor brings you into her own kitchen and takes you through the steps of creating a delicious three- or four-course meal (¥5500–6500/person). Sweet-making courses are also offered (¥2500–3500/person).

TEA CEREMONY

Kanjoan 緩徐庵 Nishijin 075 200 7653, kanjoan.com. At this beautifully restored teahouse in the heart of Nishijin you can experience a 2hr introduction to the tea ceremony with a Swiss-born tea master (¥4000/person depending on programme and group size). As well as getting insider information on Kyoto tea culture, you will learn to make your own bowl of matcha and enjoy a traditional sweet. Day and time by appointment.

WAK Japan ワックジャパン Takakura Nijō-agaru 075 212 9993, wakjapan.com. WAK Japan is a cultural organization which offers a 45min morning tea ceremony experience (¥4180/person for groups of two or more) in their traditional machiya townhouse classroom. Reservations must be made two days in advance. Daily 10am–4.30pm.

SWEET MAKING

Izutsu Yatsuhashi 井筒八つ橋 Teramachi Shijō-agaru 075 255 2121, yatsuhashi.co.jp/shop/shop03.html. Learn how to bake Kyoto’s famous cinnamon-flavoured biscuits in a 45min class (¥1320/person), and take home a special tin containing 32 biscuits. It’s best to make a telephone reservation in advance. Daily 10am–8pm.

Kanshundo 甘春堂 Kawabata Shomen Higashi-iru 075 561 1318, kanshundo.co.jp/museum/make/annai_e.htm. At this traditional Kyoto confectioner you can learn how to handcraft four different kinds of kyō-gashi (traditional Kyoto sweets made with pounded rice and bean paste) in a 1hr 15min class (¥2200/person, cash only). Reservations must be made on the website at least three days in advance. Classes daily at 9.15am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm.

TowZen 豆禅 13-4 Higashi Takagi-chō 075 703 5731, mamezen.com. This friendly spot specializes in vegan ramen made with a rich soy milk soup, topped with tofu skin and mushrooms. The base bowl is ¥1200, but it can go up to ¥1800 if you add extra noodles, more spice or additional flavours. Gluten-free noodles are available too. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 1.30am–3pm & 6–10pm; closes irregularly.

Urume うるめ 51 Ōno-chō Kitaōji-dōri 075 495 9831. This pleasant soba restaurant in a lovely old machiya makes a good lunch stop: the menu includes dishes such as Zaru-soba (¥780) and tempura with soba (¥1530), and the private room at the back has a nice garden view. It’s on the north side of Kitaōji-dōri between Shinmachi and Horikawa; there’s no large sign in front so look for a noren curtain. Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–3pm.

CAFÉS

In the Green インザグリーン Shimogamo Hangi-chō 075 706 8740, inthegreen.jp. Located on the north side of the Kyoto Botanical Gardens, this is a large café with indoor and semi-outdoor seating, as well as a pizza oven. The lunch menu is mostly sets (daily plate ¥1050) but in the evening there is a variety of pizzas (from ¥960) as well as a la carte dishes. Garden ticket holders can get a ¥discount here. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Sarasa Nishijin さらさ西陣 Kuramaguchi-dōri 075 432 5075, bit.ly/sarasa-nishijin. This café and bar in a converted sentō (public bathhouse) in the Nishijin weaving district still has its lovely original tiled interior. The food is average, but it’s a really nice place for a coffee (¥370) or a drink. Monthly live music performances. Daily noon–11pm.

Tofu Café Fujino とうふカフェ藤野 844-7 Kamiyagawa-chō Onmae-dōri Nishi-iru 075 463 1028, kyotofu.co.jp/shoplist/cafe. A little west of Kitano Tenmangū shrine, this shop and café serves classic soy bean cuisine. You can try a trio of tofu or yuba dishes for ¥670, or in the warmer months one of their delicious soy milk parfaits for ¥600. Gets extremely busy on the 25th of the month, when the shrine market is held. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm.

ARASHIYAMA MAP

Arashiyama is famous for its Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, shōjin-ryōri, and particularly for yūdōfu (simmered tofu), which is closely associated with the Zen tradition. Some of the top-end places are very pricey, but there are a few cheaper options clustered around the stations.

RESTAURANTS

Arashiyama Yoshimura 嵐山よしむら Togetsu-kyō Kitazume 075 863 5700, yoshimura-gr.com/arashiyama. This traditional soba restaurant near the Togetsu-kyō bridge has fantastic views of the Hozu-gawa and Mt Arashiyama from its second-floor dining area. Tasty soba set lunches start from ¥1630; the Tenzaru-zen (¥2220) includes a generous serving of assorted tempura. English menu available. Daily 11am–5pm.

Kamoshikaカモシカ 17-1 Wakamiya-chō 075 862 0106, kamoshika.kyoto.jp. A delightful spot specializing in fermented foods, such as pickles, miso and fish. The delicious daily lunch set (¥1300) has eight different kinds of fermented dishes and is served with rice and soup. The simpler donburi set (¥900) – fermented soybeans on rice – comes with soup and pickles. It’s best to reserve a table in advance, and allow plenty of time to eat. Tues–Fri 11.30am–5pm & Sat 11.30am–3pm.

Kitcho 吉兆 58 Susukinobaba-chō 075 881 1101, kyoto-kitcho.com. One of the most expensive restaurants in Japan, if not the world (science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke described it as “frighteningly expensive”), Kitcho has a world-famous reputation for offering the best in culinary artistry, hospitality and decor. Each meal is uniquely designed to include the best produce of the season, with preparations beginning days in advance – infinite care is taken over everything, from the garnish to the antique ceramic plates on which the dishes are served. Set kaiseki meals start around ¥50,000. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–3pm (last orders 12.30pm) & 5–7pm (last orders 6.30pm).

Sagano 嵯峨野 45 Susukinobaba-chō 075 871 6946, kyoto-sagano.jp. In a graceful bamboo grove south of Tenryū-ji, Sagano is a tranquil place for lunch or an early dinner of tofu-based cuisine. The walls are lined with Imari chinaware, and their yūdōfu set meal is superb, accompanied by lots of dipping sauces and vegetarian side dishes (¥3800). Daily 11am–7pm.

Shigetsu 天龍寺篩月 68 Susukinobaba-chō 075 882 9725, tenryuji.com/shigetsu. Located within Tenryū-ji, this is a truly authentic shōjin-ryōri experience in a lovely setting. There’s a choice of three courses (the basic three-course set is ¥3000), and reservations are essential for the more expensive courses (from ¥5500). Note that if you’re eating in the restaurant you will need to pay the ¥500 entry fee for the garden. Daily 11am–2pm.

CAFÉS

% Arabica アラビカ 3-47 Susukinobaba-chō 075 748 0057, arabica.coffee. The Arashiyama branch of this hip coffee chain has probably the nicest view in Kyoto with which to enjoy your latte (¥450) – and so, unsurprisingly, the queues can get ridiculous over weekends and holidays. It’s situated in a kiosk with some outdoor seating, and also has a small indoor room with a perfect view of the river, available to rent by the half-hour (¥1000). Daily 8am–6pm.

eX Café エックスカフェ 35-3 Saga Tenryū-ji 075 882 6366, inden-style.jp/ex_arashiyama. This popular café, with a beautiful garden, serves modern takes on traditional Kyoto sweets and drinks. The Hoku-hoku o-dango set (¥1340), which comes with green tea, is a lot of fun – you grill dango dumplings on a tiny brazier at your table, adding toppings like anko (red bean paste) to taste. Daily 10am–6pm.

Genian 玄以庵 20 Susukinobaba-chō 075 881 9033, oimatu.co.jp. The tranquil tearoom of renowned traditional sweet maker Oimatsu is a pleasant escape from the crowds. They serve beautifully crafted kyō-gashi served with matcha (¥1080), sencha (¥850) or hōjicha (¥750). In summer, their citrus fruit jelly (¥650) is highly recommended. Daily 9am–5pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

With boisterous izakaya and trendy wine bars, the epicentre of the city’s nightlife can be found either side of the Kamo-gawa in downtown Kyoto, in the two traditional pleasure quarters of Gion and Pontochō. Most clubs are in the Kiyamachi area between Sanjō and Shijō, which heaves with buskers, fortune-tellers and touts at weekends. Like the rest of Japan, Kyoto hosts a growing number of craft breweries, and bars devoted to drinking their products. In summer, look out for rooftop beer gardens on top of the big hotels and department stores. Be aware that even fairly innocuous-looking establishments can be astronomically expensive (many have a “seating” fee of over ¥1000, which usually includes a snack called an otsumami), so check first to make sure you know exactly what you’re letting yourself in for.

BARS

CENTRAL KYOTO AND PONTOCHŌ MAP

Ace Café エースカフェ 10F Empire Biru Kiyamachi Sanjō-agaru 075 241 0009, ace-cafe.com. Enjoy a cocktail (¥745) while sitting on a comfortable sofa with fabulous panoramic views over the Kamo-gawa and eastern hills from this popular tenth-floor bar and café. Also serves pasta and pizza (from ¥850). Mon–Fri & Sun 6pm–12am, Sat 6pm–2am.

Before 9 ビフォアナイン 545 Nijoden-chō 075 741 6492, sakahachi.jp/before9. Minimalist-style bar serving craft beer spread over two floors in a renovated machiya opposite the Manga Museum. Locally brewed Karasuma Pilsner or Brown (¥570/970) are popular choices. Order and pay at the front counter. Daily 5pm–1am.

Bungalow バンガロー 15 Kashiwaya-chō 075 256 8205, bungalow.jp. A large plastic curtain covers the front entrance to this cosy bar in an old machiya. There are ten local craft beers on tap costing between ¥600–1200 (sometimes natural wines are also available), and table service upstairs. Mon–Sat 3pm–2am.

Dublin Irish Pub ダブリン Oike-dōri Kawaramachi Higashi-iru 075 241 9155, dublin.kyoto-pontocho.jp. Right next to the Kyoto Hotel Okura, this popular Irish pub has Kilkenny and Guinness on tap (¥990 a pint), voluminous portions of hearty Irish food (Irish stew ¥1000, fish & chips ¥900), and an enjoyable atmosphere, especially on the live music nights. Happy hour 5–7pm. Mon–Sat 5pm–2am, Sun 4pm–1am.

Hachimonjiya 八文字屋 3F Kiyamachi Okamoto Bldg 209-3 Nabeya-chō 075 256 1731, kaifusayoshi.website/hachimonjiya.html. Squeezed into a small room by the canal is Hachimonjiya, almost overflowing with photos and magazines. Presiding over the piles of paper, uncountable sake bottles and heated debates between regulars is Kai Fusayoshi, photographer and documenter of Kyoto's everyday life and counterculture for over three decades. The unusual decor is not for show – Kai's previous beloved café, Honyaradō, burned down in 2015, and now all his prints, negatives and archives are stored here. It may be a bit of a mess, but it's full of fascinating stories and real local characters. Daily 8pm–late.

Miltons ミルトン 2F Clarion Biru 246 Yamazaki-chō 080 5292 0606, bit.ly/miltonsfb. Charming bar next to the BAL building run by artist Milton Ogura, whose art adorns the walls. Milton’s specially spiced gin (¥700) is recommended, and there’s a good range of whisky too (from ¥500). Daily 3–11pm; closed 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th and 30th of the month.

Pub Karr パブカー 2F Anraku Bldg 456-3 Matsugae-chō 075 212 4567, facebook.com/pub.karr. Friendly bar serving craft beer just off Kawaramachi, with counter or table seating. A variety of local and international IPAs (¥600–1300) is on offer, plus their own home-cured ham (¥600). Daily 3pm–1am.

Tato タト 151 Takoya-chō 075 211 9090. Popular Spanish bar with standing or seating area, and a multilingual soccer-mad owner who keeps everyone entertained. Large selection of Spanish and other European beers (from ¥770), as well as wine by the glass (¥500). Daily 5.30–11.30pm; closed irregularly.

GION AND EAST KYOTO MAP

Jam Sake Bar ジャムサケバー170 Tokiwa-chō 075 201 3374, sakebar.jp. At this casual sake bar in the Jam Hostel, you can sample a selection of sake from all over Japan. The English-speaking bartender will help you make a selection. The tasting set (of three) is ¥1000, or you can have one glass from ¥500. Beers are ¥500. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat, Sun & public hols noon–midnight.

SOUTH OF THE CENTRE MAP

Kyoto Brewing Company 京都醸造株式会社 25-1 Nishikujō Takahata-chō 075 574 7820, kyotobrewing.com. Inspired by American- and Belgian-style craft beers, this foreign-run craft brewery has successfully established itself in Kyoto, and now has a tasting room (beers from ¥700). Fri 5–9pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm.

CLUBS MAP AND THIS MAP

Metro メトロ Keihan Marutamachi Station 075 752 4765, metro.ne.jp. In the depths of the train station (take exit 2), this progressive club offers an eclectic selection of music, from local guitar bands and big-name foreign techno DJs to drag shows and hardcore dub reggae parties. It’s small, loud and very popular. Entrance ¥1000–3000 (more for foreign DJs or bands), including one drink. Daily, hours vary.

World ワールド京都 B1–B2 Imagium Bldg 075 213 4119, world-kyoto.com. Cavernous basement club attracting big-name house, hip-hop and techno DJs from Japan and abroad. Weekday nights are quieter, but the place heaves at the weekend. Average entry is ¥1000–3000 (including one drink). Open most nights from around 10pm.

LIVE MUSIC MAP AND THISMAP

Jazz Live Candy ジャズライブキャンディ B1 Hanamikōji Shinmonzen-agaru 075 531 2148, candy-jazz.com. Well-established jazz bar with top live acts (mostly local) every night, and a serious yet friendly atmosphere. Seating charge of ¥650, plus cover charge (¥1500–2500). Drinks from around ¥700. Daily, usually 7.30pm–1am.

Jittoku 拾得 Ōmiya Marutamachi-agaru 075 841 1691, www2.odn.ne.jp/jittoku. It’s a little bit out of the way, north of Nijō-jō, but this wonderful old kura (storehouse) has good acoustics and hosts regular rock and blues band performances. Cover charge ¥1000–3000. Daily 5.30pm–midnight.

Live Spot Rag 京都ライブスポトラグ 5F Empire Bldg Kiyamachi Sanjō-agaru 075 241 0446, origin.agnet.co.jp/livespot. Well-established musicians’ hangout (they have rehearsal rooms and recording studios here as well) which hosts local and international bands, mainly playing jazz. Cover charge depends on event. Usually Mon–Sat 6pm–late.

Taku Taku 磔磔 Tominokōji Bukkōji-sagaru 075 351 1321, geisya.or.jp/~takutaku. In the blocks southwest of Takashimaya department store, this converted kura makes a great live venue. The music’s pretty varied but tends towards rock and blues, including the occasional international artist. Cover charge from ¥1000 (depending on performer), including one drink. Daily 6pm–late.

UrBAN GUILD アバンギルド 3F New Kyoto Bldg, Kiyamachi Sanjō-sagaru 075 212 1125, urbanguild.net. Avant-garde club with a good reputation for hosting interesting underground local and international acts playing psych-rock, acid folk and lo-fi electronica. Occasional butō dance performances. Entry varies; usually ¥2000–2500. Usually daily 6.30pm–1am.

ENTERTAINMENT AND THE ARTS

Kyoto is famous for its traditional geisha dance shows. Performances of kabuki and nō plays are more sporadic but worth attending if you happen to be in town when they are on. The Kyoto Art Center ( 075 213 1000, kac.or.jp/en) hosts a range of exhibitions and art performances as well as lectures, field trips and a well-regarded series of “Traditional Theatre Training” workshops (held every July) for those who want to learn more about nō and other Japanese performing arts.

GEISHA ODORI

Geisha (or geiko, as they are known locally) and maiko (trainee geisha) from the city’s hanamachi (“flower towns”)have been putting on performances in spring and autumn since the late nineteenth century, though the music and choreography are much older. By turns demure and coquettish, they glide round the stage in the most gorgeous kimono, straight out of an Edo-period woodblock print of Japan’s seductive “floating world”. If you’re in Kyoto during these seasonal dances, it’s well worth going along, but note that the autumn dances are more like recitals, and not as extravagant as the spring ones. Performances take place several times a day, so it’s usually possible to get hold of tickets; you can buy them from the theatre box offices and major hotels. At all of the Odori, you can also buy tickets that combine the show with a tea ceremony conducted by geisha and maiko, which is well worth the extra cost (¥3800–6000, depending on the district). Make sure you get there early enough to enjoy your bowl of matcha.

Gion Odori 祇園をどり 075 561 0160, gionkaikan.jp; tickets from ¥3500. The Gion Odori, performed by the maiko and geisha of the smaller Gion Higashi district, wraps things up in early Nov (Nov 1–10) at the Gion Kaikan theatre near Yasaka-jinja.

Kamo-gawa Odori 鴨川をどり 075 221 2025, kamogawa-odori.com; tickets from ¥3000. The geisha and maiko of Pontochō stage their Kamo-gawa Odori once a year (May 1–24) in Pontochō Kaburenjō, at the north end of Pontochō-dōri.

Kitano Odori 北野をどり 075 461 0148, maiko3.com/index.html; tickets from ¥5000. Kyoto’s northern geisha district holds their Odori in early spring (late March to early April) at the Kamishichiken Kaburenjō, near Kitano Tenmangū shrine.

Kotobukikai 寿会 075 461 0148, maiko3.com/kotobuki-kai.html; tickets around ¥8000. The Kotobukikai dances (around Oct 8–12) are held in northwest Kyoto’s Kamishichiken Kaburenjō, close to Kitano Tenmangū shrine. Kyō Odori 京おどり 075 561 1151, miyagawacho.jp; tickets from ¥2800 with tea. The smaller-scale Kyō Odori is held in the Miyagawa-chō district, south of Gion, in early to mid-April. This is a more intimate production than Miyako Odori, though just as opulent.

Miyako Odori 都をどり 075 541 3391, miyako-odori.jp; tickets from ¥2000. The most prestigious and well known of the Odori – and the oldest, having started in 1872 – is performed at Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō throughout April by the geisha and maiko of Gion. The dances are based on a seasonal theme and have lavish sets and costumes. Singers and musicians playing shamisen, flutes and drums perform in alcoves at each side of the stage.

Mizuekai みずえ会 075 561 1151, miyagawacho.jp/mizuekai.html; tickets from ¥4000. Miyagawa-chō’s Mizuekai recital is usually held in mid-Oct at the Miyagawa-chō Kaburenjō.

Onshūkai 温習会 075 541 3391, miyako-odori.jp/onsyukai; tickets around ¥8500. The Onshūkai dances are held during the first week in Oct at the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō.

GEISHA SHOWS

Even if your visit doesn’t coincide with any of the seasonal geisha performances, there are still several opportunities to see Kyoto’s geisha and maiko dance.

MAJOR KYOTO FESTIVALS AND ANNUAL EVENTS

Thanks to its central role in Japanese history, Kyoto is home to a number of important festivals; the major celebrations are listed below. The cherry-blossom season usually hits Kyoto in early April – famous viewing spots include the Imperial Park, Yasaka-jinja and Arashiyama – while early November brings dramatic autumn colours. Many temples hold special openings in October and November to air their inner rooms during the fine, dry weather. This is a marvellous opportunity to see paintings, statues and other treasures not normally on public display; details are available in the free Kyoto Visitors’ Guide. Kyoto gets pretty busy during major festivals and national holidays, especially Golden Week (April 29–May 5).

Febuary 2–4: Setsubun 節分 Annual bean-throwing festival celebrated at shrines throughout the city. At Yasaka-jinja, “ogres” scatter beans and pray for good harvests, while Heian-jingū hosts performances of traditional kyōgen theatre on Feb 3.

April 1–30: Miyako Odori 都おどり Performances of traditional geisha dances in Gion.

April 7–22: Kyō Odori 京おどり Performances by the geisha and maiko of the Miyagawa-chō district.

May 15: Aoi Matsuri 葵祭 The “Hollyhock Festival” dates back to the days when this plant was believed to ward off earthquakes and thunder. Now it’s an occasion for a gorgeous, yet slow, procession of people dressed in Heian-period (794–1185) costume. They accompany the imperial messenger and an ox cart decked in hollyhock leaves from the Imperial Palace to the Shimo-gamo and Kami-gamo shrines, in north Kyoto.

May 1–24: Kamo-gawa Odori 鴨川おどり Performances of traditional dances by geisha in Pontochō.

June 1–2: Takigi Nō 薪能 Nō plays performed by torchlight at Heian-jingū.

July 1–31: Gion Matsuri 祇園祭 One of Kyoto’s great festivals dates back to Heian times, when ceremonies were held to drive away epidemics of the plague. The festivities focus on Yasaka-jinja and culminate on July 17, with a grand parade through central Kyoto of tall, pointy yama-boko floats, richly decorated with local Nishijin silk. Night festivals are held three days prior to the parade, when the floats are lit with lanterns. The inside of some can be viewed for a few hundred yen.

August 16: Daimonji Gozan Okuribi 大文字五山送り火 Five huge bonfires etch kanji characters on five hills around Kyoto; the most famous is the character for dai (big) on Daimonji-yama, northeast of the city. The practice originated from lighting fires after Obon.

October 22: Jidai Matsuri 時代祭 This “Festival of the Ages” was introduced in 1895 to mark Kyoto’s 1100th anniversary. More than two thousand people, wearing costumes representing all the intervening historical periods, parade from the Imperial Palace to Heian-jingū.

October 22: Kurama-no-Himatsuri 鞍馬の火祭 After the Jidai parade, hop on a train north to see Kurama’s more boisterous Fire Festival.

December 1–25: Kabuki Kaomise 顔見世 Grand kabuki festival.

December 31: Okera Mairi 白朮詣り The best place to see in the New Year is at Gion’s Yasaka-jinja. Locals come here to light a flame from the sacred fire, with which to rekindle their hearths back home. As well as general good luck, this supposedly prevents illness in the coming year.

Fureaikan ふれあい館 Every third Sun of the month you can see a free 15min dance performance by maiko at the Fureaikan museum.

Gion Corner ギオンコーナー kyoto-gioncorner.com. As part of Gion Corner’s sampler of traditional performance arts, maiko perform kyō-mai (Kyoto-style) dances at the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō. Performances are at 6pm and 7pm (¥3150).

Gion Hatanaka 祇園畑中旅館 The Gion Hatanaka ryokan holds Kyoto Cuisine and Maiko Evening events (Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat at 6pm; 075 541 5315, gionhatanaka.jp/maiko; ¥19,500; reservations essential) which non-guests are welcome to attend. This is a great chance to see maiko performing at close range and to take photos.

KABUKI AND NŌ

Colourful and dramatic, kabuki (歌舞伎) theatre originated in Kyoto, though performances are, unfortunately, fairly sporadic these days. Nō theatre (能) is a far more stately affair; though it is often incomprehensible, even to Japanese people, it can also be incredibly powerful to watch.

Kanze Kaikan 観世会館 South of Heian-jingū 075 771 6114, kyoto-kanze.jp. This is Kyoto’s main venue for nō, with performances (including kyōgen) most weekends (tickets from ¥3000, occasional free performances).

Kawamura Nō Stage 河村能舞台 On Karasuma-dōri near Dōshisha University 075 722 8716, kid97.co.jp/kawamura. Lovely old nō theatre run by the Kawamura family, a long line of famous nō actors (tickets from ¥4000).

Kongo Nō-gakudō 金剛能楽堂 On Karasuma-dōri on the west side of the Imperial Park 075 441 7222, kongou-net.com. Large modern theatre holding regular performances of nō classics (tickets from ¥4500).

Minami-za 南座 Shijō-Ōhashi Higashi-zume 075 561 1155, kabukiweb.net/theatres/minamiza/information/index.html. This theatre is the main venue to see a kabuki performance in Kyoto. Throughout December there’s a major kabuki-fest here known as kaomise, or “face-showing” (Dec 1–25), when big-name actors perform snippets from their most successful roles.

CINEMA

Kyoto Cinema Karasuma Shijō-sagaru 075 353 4723, kyotocinema.jp. On the third floor of the Cocon Karasuma shopping complex, this cinema has three screens and mainly shows local and foreign arthouse films and documentaries. Standard tickets ¥1800.

Minami Kaikan 110 Nishikujō Gawarajō-chō 075 661 3993, kyoto-minamikaikan.jp. Small cinema near the junction of Ōmiya and Kujō, southeast of Kyoto Station, showing an interesting mix of alternative and mainstream films. Standard tickets ¥1800.

Movix Kyoto 400 Sakurano-chō 075 254 3215, smt-cinema.com/site/kyoto. Located at the top end of Shinkyōgoku, just south of Sanjō, this is Kyoto’s largest cinema complex, with an annex. It screens the latest Japanese and Hollywood blockbusters. Standard tickets ¥1500.

T-Joy Kyoto 1 Toriiguchi-machi tjoy.co.jp/theater/info/kyoto. Cinema complex on the fifth floor of the Aeon Shopping Mall near Kyoto Station, showing Japanese and mainstream Hollywood movies. Prices vary.

Toho Cinema Nijō 107 Togano-chō 050 6868 5035, tohotheater.jp/theater/nijo. Large complex next to Nijō Station, showing all the mainstream Japanese and Hollywood blockbusters, including late-night screenings. Standard tickets ¥1900.

SHOPPING MAP, MAP AND THIS MAP

Kyoto’s main shopping district is focused around the junction of Shijō-dōri and Kawaramachi-dōri, and spreads north of Shijō along the Teramachi and Shinkyōgoku covered arcades. You’ll find the big-name department stores, notably Takashimaya, Hankyū and Daimaru, all on Shijō. Souvenir shops, boutiques and even a few traditional craft shops are mostly situated on Sanjō-dōri, just west of the river. Beneath Oike-dori, between Teramachi and Kawaramachi, is the Zest underground shopping mall. The Kyoto Station area is home to the huge Isetan department store and an underground shopping mall, Porta, beneath the northern bus terminal. East Kyoto is best known for its wealth of pottery shops around Kiyomizu-dera, while nearby Sannen-zaka hosts a lovely parade of traditional craft shops. Further north, Gion’s Shinmonzen-dōri specializes in antiques – prices are predictably high, but it’s a good area to browse.

KYOTO SHOPPING COMPLEXES

The Aeon Mall near Kyoto Station houses popular fashion stores and restaurant chains. There are two stylish shopping complexes on Karasuma-dōri: Laque, on the corner of Shijō, consists of six levels of boutiques, restaurants and shops; while Cocon Karasuma, south of Shijō, has designer furniture and contemporary Japanese craft shops, as well as restaurants and cafés. On Kawaramachi, the trendy Mina shopping complex houses fashion boutiques, cafés and the Loft department store. In northeastern Kyoto, the Qanat shopping complex at Takano has fashion boutiques, chain stores and a large basement supermarket and food hall.

BOOKS

Kyoto Handicraft Center 京都ハンディクラフトセンターMarutamachi-dōri 075 761 8001, kyotohandicraftcenter.com. On the ground floor of the east wing, there’s a good range of cultural books on Japan, including photography books and guidebooks, and even antique ukiyo-e prints. It’s also possible to join craft workshops such as fan painting or woodblock printing; check the website for reservation details. Daily 10am–7pm.

Maruzen 丸善 Kawaramachi-dōri 075 253 1599, maruzenjunkudo.co.jp. This vast bookshop, taking up the two basement levels of the BAL building, is the best place in Kyoto to buy English books on Japan. There’s also a large selection of novels, children’s and academic books. Daily 11am–9pm.

FOOD

Kyoto is as famous for its beautiful foodstuffs as it is for crafts, all made with the same attention to detail and love of refinement. You can see this in even the most modest restaurant, but also in the confectionery shops, where the window displays look more like art galleries. A popular local delicacy is pickled vegetables (tsukemono), which accompany most meals. If you take a walk down Nishiki-kōji market street, you’ll notice that pickles predominate among all the vegetables, tofu and dried fish.

Ippodō 一保堂 Teramachi Nijō-agaru 075 211 4018, ippodo-tea.co.jp. This historic tea-seller has been in business since 1717. The shop sells all grades of Japanese green teas, locally grown in Uji – from top-quality matcha to the earthy roasted hōjicha. Also has a wonderful tearoom where you can sample different types and grades of green tea (¥660–2090); staff are friendly and happy to guide you through the extensive menu (in English). Daily 9am–6pm.

Izutsu Yatsuhashi 井筒八つ橋 Teramachi Shijō-agaru 075 255 2121, yatsuhashi.co.jp. Yatsuhashi sweet cinnamon-flavoured biscuits and soft rice cakes are Kyoto favourites and make great souvenirs. At this branch you can also try your hand at baking the famous biscuits. Daily 10am–8pm.

Kogetsu 鼓月 681 Takanna-chō 075 221 1641, kogetsu.com/en/shop.html. This elegant confectioner is famous for its senju-semnbei – a waffle biscuit filled with bean jam. The chrysanthemum-shaped Hana soft cakes with white bean fillings are also delicious. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–6pm.

Takakuraya 高倉屋 Nishiki-kōji 075 231 0032, takakuraya.jp. Takakuraya is famous for its thinly sliced daikon (white radish) pickles, which are expertly prepared and have a fresh, sharp taste. Daily 10am–6pm.

Toraya とらや Gokomachi Nishi-iru Shijō-dōri 075 221 3027, toraya-group.co.jp. Toraya has been in business since the sixteenth century. It produces superbly artistic creations of seasonal sweets made from mochi (pounded rice) and sweet red or white beans. This store also has a second-floor tearoom. Daily 10am–7pm.

TEXTILES AND FASHION

Kyoto has long been famous for its high-quality kimono silk weaving and dyeing, with the Nishijin district the centre of the city’s textile industry. Some of the traditional techniques have been revitalized by innovative Kyoto fashion designers in recent years.

BSC Gallery Kyoto BSCギャラリー 420 Sakurano-chō 075 212 3717, r.goope.jp/bsckyoto. The best place in the city for a sukajan, a silk bomber jacket with elaborate hand embroidery on the back. Downstairs are the cheaper options, often made from synthetic materials and featuring popular cartoon characters. It's the ones upstairs which are the real deal – much more expensive, but a truly unique souvenir. They're often reversible, too, so you can tell yourself that you're buying two jackets for the price of one. Daily 11am–9pm.

Eirakuya/RAAK 永楽屋 Muromachi Sanjō-agaru 075 256 7811, eirakuya.jp. The main store of this traditional tenugui (cotton hand-cloth) manufacturer, which now reproduces stylish Taishō designs from the 1920s. The tenugui can be worn as a scarf or hung on the wall, while modern styles are produced through the RAAK label. There are also smaller branches on Shijō, on both sides of the bridge. Daily 10.30am–7pm.

Koromo Teramachi-ten 衣寺町店 Hokusei-kado, Takoyakushi 075 212 6353, koromo-kyoto.com/shops/teramachi. Using a mix of recycled fabrics and new ones made with traditional techniques, Koromo creates high-quality clothes with a distinctly Kyoto style. Particularly strong on menswear and utilitarian styles. Daily 11am–8pm.

Kyoto Denim 京都デニム 79-3 Koinari-chō 075 352 1053, kyoto-denim.jp. Fashionable denim jeans and clothing incorporating local fabrics, such as cotton, silk and brocade, as well as hand-dyeing techniques. Custom orders are possible. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–7pm.

Pagong パゴン 373 Kiyomoto-chō Gion 075 541 3155, pagong.jp/en. Traditional Yūzen dyer, now producing aloha shirts, camisoles, dresses, scarves and T-shirts with traditional patterns and designs. Look out for sister brand Sanjō by Pagong on Sanjō-dōri between Fuyachō and Tominokōji. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–8pm.

Sou Sou ソウソウ 565-72 Nakano-chō 075 212 9324, sousou.co.jp. A winning combination of traditional footwear and modern style, this local label (with several branches in the city) designs and produces jikatabi, split-toe workmen’s shoes, in funky fabrics and styles. Also sells kimono, leisurewear and more – not to mention being the exclusive provider of samue clothing for top-end Hoshinoya resorts. Daily 11am–8pm.

TEMPLE AND SHRINE FLEA MARKETS IN KYOTO

If you’re in Kyoto towards the end of the month, don’t miss its two big flea markets. On the 21st, Kōbō-san (in honour of the founder) is held at Tō-ji, and on the 25th, Tenjin-san (in honour of the enshrined deity) is held at Kitano Tenmangū. Both kick off before 7am and it’s worth getting there early if you’re looking for special treasures. There’s a fantastic carnival atmosphere at these markets, where stalls sell everything from second-hand kimono to dried fruit and manga. Tō-ji also has an antiques market on the first Sunday of every month.

A monthly market is held at Chion-ji on the 15th of every month (16th if raining), which focuses more on crafts and other handmade goods. Chion-ji sits on the corner of Imadegawa-dōri and Higashiōji-dōri, close to Kyoto University.

TRADITIONAL ARTS AND CRAFTS SHOPS

Aritsugu 有次 Nishiki-kōji Goko-machi Nishi-iru 075 221 1091, kyoto-nishiki.or.jp/stores/aritsugu. This top-end knife shop has been in business since the sixteenth century, when they specialized in sword production. Now they do a roaring trade in sashimi knives and other hand-crafted kitchen implements. Daily 9am–5.30pm.

Asahi-dō 朝日堂 1-280 Kiyomizu 075 531 2181, asahido.co.jp. The best and most famous of several pottery shops on the road up to Kiyomizu-dera, established in the Edo period and selling a wide variety of locally produced Kiyomizu-yaki. Daily 9am–6pm.

Gallery Nishikawa ギャラリーにしかわ Kawaramachi-dōri, 332 Shioya-chō 075 212 3153, gallery-nishikawa.wixsite.com/gallery-nishikawa. This small gallery holds rotating exhibitions from local and national artists and artisans. You can buy the works exhibited, or one of the many unusual craft objects they have on permanent display, ranging from sake sets and lacquerware to textiles and calligraphy. Tues–Sun noon–7pm.

Ichizawa Shinzaburo Hanpu 一澤信三郎帆布 602 Takabatake-chō 075 541 0436, ichizawa.co.jp/en. Canvas-bag manufacturer on Higashiōji-dōri, producing beautifully hand-stitched rucksacks, tote bags and purses in functional designs and a variety of colours, since 1905. Prices start at around ¥6500, with most items nearer ¥10,000. Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–6pm.

Kaikadō 開化堂 84-1 Umeminato-chō 075 351 5788, kaikado.jp/english. This traditional Kyoto tea caddy manufacturer has branched out into modern design and, using centuries-old techniques, is now producing stylish teapots, water pitchers, milk jugs, trays and boxes. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; closed second Mon of the month.

Kami-ya Gion-ten 加美屋祇園店 270 Gion-machi Kitagawa 075 561 8878, kami-ya.jp/open.htm. This small shop is packed with traditional cosmetics and items of stationery, many emblazoned with the cute fox logo. Their oil blotting paper is a bestseller – it's in half the handbags in Kyoto each summer – but there are several more glamorous items, many inspired by geishas' traditional skincare and make-up techniques. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm.

Kyūkyo-dō 鳩居堂玉堂 520 Teramachi 075 231 0510, kyukyodo.co.jp. This wonderful old shop in Teramachi shopping arcade smells great thanks to all the incense on sale, but it’s also a good place to purchase handmade cards and other stationery items, as well as uchiwa fans and calligraphy goods. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm.

Lisn リスン Karasuma-dōri Shijō-sagaru 075 353 6468, lisn.co.jp. This stylish incense shop on the ground floor of Cocon Karasuma shopping complex has the decor of an exclusive nightclub. Choose from a wide range of modern seasonal blends, starting under ¥700. Daily 11am–8pm.

Suzuki Shofudō 鈴木松風堂 409 Izutsuya-chō 075 231 5003, shofudo-shop.jp. Wonderful traditional paper shop selling a creative array of paper crafts such as boxes, trays and sugar pots with wooden spoons attached (¥1760). Daily 10am–7pm.

Tanakaya 田中彌 Shijō Yanaginobanba 075 221 1959. This stately old shop on Shijō-dōri is one of the best places to shop for Kyō-ningyō – traditional Kyoto dolls – in all shapes and sizes. There’s also a gallery upstairs with changing exhibitions of antique dolls. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm.

DIRECTORY

Emergencies The main police station is at 85-3 Yabunouchi-chō, Shimodachiuri-dōri, Kamanza Higashi-iru, Kamigyō-ku ( 075 451 9111; see bit.ly/kyotopolice for a list of other stations). In an absolute emergency, call 110 for police or 119 for fire and ambulance, where you will be transferred to an English-speaker.

Hospitals and clinics The best Kyoto hospital with English-speaking doctors is the Japan Baptist Hospital, 47 Yamanomoto-chō, Kitashirakawa, Sakyō-ku ( 075 781 5191, www.jbh.or.jp). Sakabe International Clinic, 435 Yamamoto-chō, Gokomachi Nijō-sagaru (closed Thurs & Sat afternoons and all day Sun; 075 231 1624, sakabeclinic.com/english), is run by English-speaking staff.

Immigration To renew your tourist or student visa, apply to the Immigration Bureau, 4F, 34-12 Higashi Marutamachi, Kawabata Higashi-iru, near Keihan Marutamachi Station ( 075 752 5997).

Mobile phone rental Kyoto-based company Rentafone Japan ( 075 212 0842, rentafonejapan.com) rents out mobile phones for ¥3900 a week and will deliver to your accommodation in Kyoto. Incoming calls are free and outgoing calls are charged from ¥3.5/minute.

Post offices The Central Post Office, 843-12 Higashi Shiokōji-chō, Shimogyō-ku, Kyoto-shi, is located in front of Kyoto Station. Downtown, the Nakagyō Ward Post Office, 30 Hishiya-chō, Nakagyō-ku, is near the Museum of Kyoto. Both have a 24hr window for stamps and express mail.

Around Kyoto

There’s so much to see in Kyoto itself that most people don’t explore the surrounding area. To the south is Uji, another quiet pocket of history, home to the magnificent Byōdō-in, whose graceful Phoenix Hall is a masterpiece of Japanese architecture, and to the tea fields which support Kyoto’s cultural traditions. To the northeast of Kyoto is the sacred mountain of Hiei-zan, where age-old cedars shelter the venerable temple complex of Enryaku-ji. In the shadow of Hiei-zan, Ōhara contains a scattering of beguiling temples in a rustic valley, while the nearby villages of Kurama and Kibune make a fun day-trip taking in temples, a hot spring and a river lunch. Slightly further afield, but definitely worth the effort, are Amanohashidate, the “Bridge to Heaven”, on the northern coast of Kyoto prefecture, and the picturesque fishing village of Ine. The attractive castle town of Hikone on Biwa-ko, Japan’s largest lake, the leafy and secluded Ishiyama-dera and the architecturally stunning Miho Museum, nestled in the Shigaraki mountains, are also all worth visiting.

Uji

宇治

The town of UJI, thirty minutes’ train ride south of Kyoto, has a long and illustrious past and boasts one of Japan’s most fabulous buildings, the Byōdō-in – for a preview, look at the reverse side of a ¥10 coin. Somehow this eleventh-century hall, with its glorious statue of Amida Buddha, survived war, fire and years of neglect, and today preserves a stunning display of Heian-period art at its most majestic. Uji is also famous for its tea fields; since the fourteenth century, this area’s green tea leaves have been rated among the best in the country, and you’ll find plenty of teashops where you can sample it on the way from the train station to Byōdō-in. Uji can easily be visited on a half-day excursion from Kyoto, and it’s only a little bit further from Nara.

UJI TEA PLANTATION TOURS

The area around Uji is the second-biggest tea-growing region in Japan (the largest is Shizuoka in the east of the country) and the fields here have supplied Kyoto’s tea culture since the fourteenth century, when seeds brought over from China were first planted. Uji tea is considered the finest in Japan and it is also the most expensive. The best times to visit Uji’s tea fields and processing factories are in late spring, when the first leaves of the season, later drunk as shin-cha (“new tea”), are being picked, and in early autumn for the next harvest.

Obubu Tea Farm in Wazuka ( obubutea.com), approximately 40 minutes south of Uji by train, holds tea tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The tour visits several tea fields, and includes tea tasting and a lunch of cha-soba (green tea noodles). Advance reservations are required. There are also three special tea picking and rolling events a year in spring, summer and autumn, where you can learn how to pick the best leaves, roast them and make your own hōjicha and matcha. The staff here (including foreign interns) are full of passion and energy for tea culture and warmly welcome overseas visitors, making it a memorable and worthwhile trip.

Byōdō-in

平等院 • 116 Uji Renge • Garden and treasure hall Daily 8.30am–5.30pm • ¥600 • Phoenix Hall Daily 9.30am–4.10pm • ¥300 • Admission limited to 50 people every 20min • 0774 21 2861, byodoin.or.jp • A 10min walk from JR or Keihan Uji Station

One of the nicest places to visit in western Japan, the elegant temple of Byōdō-in boasts a remarkable collection of Heian-period art, some impressive buildings and a tranquil atmosphere. After the imperial capital moved to Kyoto in 794, Uji became a popular location for aristocratic country retreats. One such villa was taken over in the late tenth century by the emperor’s chief adviser, Fujiwara Michinaga, when the Fujiwara clan was at its peak. His son, Yorimichi, continued developing the gardens and pavilions until they were the envy of the court. Those pavilions have long gone, but you can still catch a flavour of this golden age through the great literary masterpiece, The Tale of Genji. In 1052, some years after The Tale of Genji was completed, Yorimichi decided to convert the villa into a temple dedicated to Amida, the Buddha of the Western Paradise. By the following year, the great Amida Hall, popularly known as the Phoenix Hall, was completed. Miraculously, it’s the only building from the original temple to have survived.

Phoenix Hall

鳳凰堂, Hōō-dō

The best place to view the Phoenix Hall is from the far side of the pond, where it sits on a small island; the exteriors have been recently restored and the reflection in the pond makes for an excellent photo. The hall itself is surprisingly small. Inside, the gilded statue of Amida dominates. It was created by a sculptor-priest called Jōchō, using a new method of slotting together carved blocks of wood, and is in remarkably fine condition. At one time the hall must have been a riot of colour, but now only a few traces of the wall paintings remain, most of which are reproductions. If you look very carefully, you can just make out faded images of Amida and a host of heavenly beings descending on billowing clouds to receive the faithful. Meanwhile, the white, upper walls are decorated with a unique collection of 52 carved bodhisattvas, which were also once painted.

The original wall paintings, as well as the temple bell and two phoenixes, are now preserved in the excellent modern treasure hall, Hōmotsu-kan, partially submerged into a hill behind the Phoenix Hall. It’s worth seeing them up close, especially as these are now the oldest examples of the Yamato-e style of painting still in existence.

The Tale of Genji Museum

源氏物語ミュージアム, Genji Monogatari Myūjiamu • 45-26 Higashiuchi • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥600 • 0774 39 9300, bit.ly/genjimuseum • Cross Uji bridge, north of Byōdō-in, head towards Keihan Uji Station, and take a right turn up the hill

The small but engaging Tale of Genji Museum is a delightful place to connect with Japan’s literary history. The Tale of Genji was written in the early eleventh century by Murasaki Shikibu, the daughter of an official of the Imperial Court in Kyoto, and is regarded as the world’s first novel. It is an epic saga of love affairs, court intrigues and political machinations, centring on Genji, the Shining Prince, the beautiful son of an emperor and his concubine. The book’s finale is set in Uji, which Murasaki Shikibu would have known intimately – she was a distant relative of Fujiwara Michinaga and she served as lady-in-waiting to his daughter, Empress Akiko. At the museum, you can learn about the fictional world of Genji in 3-D format, which includes a reproduction of a Heian-period home and an animated film based on the heroine of the Uji chapters, Ukifune. Pick up an English-language pamphlet and free audio guide at the entrance which together provide useful information and commentary on the exhibits.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION UJI

By train Uji lies on the JR Nara line between Kyoto and Nara, with trains running roughly every 15min from Kyoto (15–30min) and every 20min from Nara (30–50min). The Keihan line, which runs between Kyoto and Osaka, stops at Chushojima, where you can change for the Keihan Uji line (15min).

Tourist information There’s a tourist information office at JR Uji Station (daily 9am–5pm; 0774 24 8783) near the south exit. It’s a good place to pick up a map in English before heading to the sights. The Uji City Tourist Information Centre (daily 9am–5pm; 0774 23 3334, kyoto-uji-kankou.or.jp) is further along the riverbank from Byōdō-in.

EATING AND DRINKING

Mitsuboshien Kanbayashi 三星園上林 27-2 Uji Renge 0774 21 2636, ujicha-kanbayashi.co.jp. Long-established tea-seller with a tearoom and a reference library on the history and culture of Uji tea. You can join a class here and learn to make your own matcha (¥1100 with a sweet); reservations essential. Daily 9am–6pm.

Taihou-an 対鳳庵 2 Tokawa 0774 23 3334. This traditional teahouse is a lovely place to take a break and enjoy a fresh bowl of Uji’s famous green tea with a seasonal sweet (¥520). Tickets to enter the teahouse and have tea can be purchased at the Uji City Tourist Information Centre next door. Daily 10am–4pm; closed Dec 20–Jan 10.

Tatsumiya 辰巳屋 3-7 Tokawa 0774 21 3131, uji-tatsumiya.co.jp. Overlooking the Uji-gawa, this Kyō-ryōri restaurant serves a wonderful lunch set. The Uji Maru Bentō (¥3300) is presented in a basket and consists of thirty artfully arranged bites of seafood, fish, tofu and vegetables served with rice balls and dessert. Last orders 2.30pm & 8pm. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–3.30pm & 4–10pm.

Tsūen-jaya 通園 1 Higashiuchi 0774 21 2243, tsuentea.com. Proudly claiming to be Japan’s oldest teashop, Tsūen-jaya has been run by the same family for over 800 years. The current building, near to the Keihan Uji Station, dates back to the seventeenth century and is full of historical tea paraphernalia. Fresh matcha with a sweet is ¥700. Daily 9.30am–5.30pm.

Hiei-zan

比叡山

Protecting Kyoto’s northeastern flank (traditionally considered the source of evil spirits threatening the capital), the sacred mountain of Hiei-zan is the home of Tendai Buddhism. The sect’s headquarters are housed in an atmospheric collection of buildings, Enryaku-ji, a pleasant place to meander along ancient paths through cedar forests. The route to Enryaku-ji from Kyoto wriggles up the mountainside, then follows a ridge road north, and on a clear day you’ll be rewarded with huge views west over Biwa-ko, Japan’s largest lake and the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world after Lake Baikal in Siberia. Enryaku-ji lies about 800m above sea level and can get pretty chilly in winter; even in summer you’ll find it noticeably cooler than Kyoto.

Enryaku-ji

延暦寺 • 4220 Honmachi • Daily 9am–4pm • Main compounds ¥700, English audio guide ¥500 • 077 578 0001, hieizan.or.jp

The top of Hiei-zan consists of a narrow ridge, at the south end of which stand the central halls of Enryaku-ji. From this core area, known as the Tō-dō (Eastern Pagoda; 東塔), the ridge slopes gently northwest down to the Sai-tō (Western Pagoda; 西塔). A third compound, Yokawa, lies further north again, but this was a later addition and contains little of immediate interest.

Kokuhō-den and Daikō-dō

国宝殿 • 大講堂

Enryaku-ji’s most important buildings are concentrated in the southerly Tō-dō compound. Immediately inside the entrance you’ll find a modern treasure hall, the Kokuhō-den. Its most interesting exhibits are a fine array of statues, including a delicate, thirteenth-century Amida Buddha and a lovely Senjū Kannon (Thousand-Armed Kannon) of the ninth century. You can also see a scroll apparently recording founder Saichō’s trip to China in 804 AD. Up the hill from the Kokuhō-den, the first building on your left is the Daikō-dō, the Great Lecture Hall, where monks attend lectures on the sutras and discuss doctrine. Keeping an eye on them are life-sized statues of Nichiren, Eisai, Hōnen, Shinran and other great names from the past – a sort of Tendai Hall of Fame.

Konpon Chū-dō

根本中堂

ENRYAKU-JI AND THE TENDAI SECT

The mountain temple complex of Enryaku-ji was founded in 788 AD by a young Buddhist monk called Saichō (767–822), who was later sanctified as Dengyō Daishi. Saichō built himself a small hut on the mountain and a temple to house an image of Yakushi Nyorai (the Buddha of Healing), which he carved from a fallen tree. He then went to China for a year to study Buddhism; on his return to Hiei-zan in 805 AD he founded the Japanese Tendai sect. Based on the Lotus Sutra, Tendai doctrine holds that anyone can achieve enlightenment through studying the sacred texts and following extremely rigorous practices. Its followers went on to establish a whole host of splinter groups: Hōnen (who founded the Jōdo sect), Shinran (Jōdo Shinshū), Eisai (Rinzai Zen) and Nichiren all started out as Tendai priests.

In the early days, Enryaku-ji received generous imperial funding and court officials were sent up the mountain for a twelve-year education programme. As the sect expanded it became enormously rich and politically powerful, until there were three thousand buildings on the mountain. It owned vast areas of land and even maintained an army of several hundred well-trained warrior monks – many of whom were not really monks at all. They spent a good deal of time fighting other Buddhist sects, notably their great rivals at Nara’s Kōfuku-ji. In 1571, the warlord Oda Nobunaga put a stop to all this, leading 30,000 troops up Hiei-zan to lay waste to the complex, including the monks and their families. Nobunaga died eleven years later, and his successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, was more kindly disposed to the Tendai sect, encouraging the monks to rebuild.

Enryaku-ji’s most sacred hall is the Konpon Chū-dō, located in the Tō-dō compound. This powerful, faded building marks the spot where Saichō built his first hut; his statue of Yakushi Nyorai is kept inside, though hidden from view. Despite the crowds, the atmosphere in the dark, cavernous hall is absolutely compelling. Unusually, the altars are in a sunken area below the worship floor, where they seem to float in a swirling haze of incense smoke lit by low-burning lamps. It’s said that the three big lanterns in front of the main altar have been burning ever since Saichō himself lit them 1200 years ago. Monks tending the flames nowadays wear a mask in case they sneeze and accidentally blow the flame out.

The Konpon Chū-dō is currently in the middle of a major renovation (2016–2026). The building is covered in scaffolding, but the interior is still open to visitors.

Kaidan-in and Amida-dō

戒壇院 • 阿弥陀堂

The pretty Kaidan-in, the Ordination Hall, and the reconstructed Amida-dō and its two-storey pagoda are surrounded by cherry blossoms in the spring, and red maple leaves in the autumn. Kaidan-in houses some important Buddhist images which are not on display to the public, while the bright-red Amida-dō is used for memorial services. Behind here, a path leads off through the woods to the Sai-tō compound.

Jōdo-in

浄土院

Located to the north of the Tō-dō compound, the peaceful Sai-tō compound is one of the highlights of a visit to Enryaku-ji. It houses some important buildings, including the Jōdo-in, a ten-minute walk along the path through the woods at the bottom of a lantern-lined staircase. Inside the temple’s courtyard, behind the main hall, is Saichō’s mausoleum (伝教大師御廟, Dengyō Daishi Gobyō), a red-lacquered building that stands in a carefully tended gravel enclosure and is one of Enryaku-ji’s most sacred sites.

Ninai-dō

にない堂

Two identical square halls standing on a raised area in the Sai-tō compound are commonly known as Ninai-dō, which roughly translates as “shoulder-carrying hall”; this refers to the legendary strength of a certain Benkei, who’s said to have hoisted the two buildings onto his shoulders like a yoke. Their official names are Jōgyō-dō (常行堂), the Hall of Perpetual Practice, and the Hokke-dō (法華堂), or Lotus Hall. They’re used for different types of meditation practice: in the former, monks walk round the altar for days reciting the Buddha’s name; in the latter, they alternate between walking and sitting meditation while studying the Lotus Sutra.

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KASUGA TAISHA

MARATHON MONKS

Followers of the Buddhist Tendai sect believe that the route to enlightenment lies through chanting, esoteric ritual and extreme physical endurance. The most rigorous of these practices is the “thousand-day ascetic mountain pilgrimage”, in which marathon monks, as they’re popularly known, are required to walk 40,000km through the mountains and streets of Kyoto in a thousand days – the equivalent of nearly a thousand marathons. The thousand days are split into hundred-day periods over seven years; during each period the monk has to go out every day in all weathers, regardless of his physical condition. He must adhere to a strict vegetarian diet and, at one point during the seven years, go on a week-long fast with no food, water or sleep, just for good measure.

Not surprisingly, many monks don’t make it – in the old days they were expected to commit ritual suicide if they had to give up. Those who do finish (nowadays, about one person every five years) are rewarded with enlightenment and become “living Buddhas”. Apparently, the advice of modern marathon monks is much sought-after by national baseball coaches and others involved in endurance training.

Shaka-dō

釈迦堂

The centre of the Sai-tō area is marked by the Shaka-dō, an imposing hall with a sunken centre and three lanterns. Though smaller and not as atmospheric as Konpon Chū-dō, this building is much older; originally erected in the thirteenth century on the shores of Biwa-ko, it was moved here in 1595 to replace the earlier hall destroyed by Nobunaga’s armies. It’s a lovely, quiet place to rest before you start heading back.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE HIEI-ZAN

By bus The quickest and simplest way of getting to Enryaku-ji is to take a direct bus (1hr; ¥770) from either Kyoto Station or Sanjō-Keihan Station in east Kyoto. The timetable varies according to the season, so check in Kyoto for the latest schedule and note that in winter the road is sometimes closed by snow (and doesn't run at all Dec to mid-March). Buses loop around the rather tacky Garden Museum Hiei, an outdoor museum devoted to re-creating garden scenes from famous paintings by Monet and Renoir, and then stop at the Enryaku-ji Bus Centre, where you’ll find the temple’s main entrance.

Sakamoto Cable-car The most convenient of the mountain’s two cable-cars is the eastern Sakamoto Cable (坂本ケーブル; every 30min; 11min; ¥860, or ¥1620 return), which has the added benefit of views over Biwa-ko. To reach the cable-car, take a JR Kosei line train from Kyoto Station to Hiei-zan Sakamoto Station (比叡山坂本駅; every 15min; 20min; ¥320), then a bus (¥220). From the top station it’s a 700m walk north to the central Tō-dō area along a quiet road.

Eizan Cable-car and Ropeway The western Eizan Cable and Ropeway (叡山ケーブル; every 30min; 20min; ¥850 one-way, or ¥1700 return, mid-March to Nov only) dumps you at the Sanchō Station (山頂駅), about 1.5km from the Tō-dō area: from the station you can catch a shuttle bus (see below), or walk along a footpath behind the Garden Museum Hiei. Eizan Cable leaves from near Yase-Hiei-zan-guchi Station (八瀬比叡山口駅) on the private Eizan line; to get there, either take a train from Kyoto’s Demachiyanagi Station (every 12min; 14min; ¥260), or a Kyoto Bus headed for Ōhara from Kyoto Station (#17 and #18) or Sanjō-Keihan Station (#16 and #17).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Once you’ve arrived on the mountain, the best way to get around is on foot. If you’re in a hurry, however, you can take the shuttle bus (mid-March to Nov; every 30min), which runs from Sanchō via the central Tō-dō car park to Sai-tō and Yokawa. The whole journey only takes about 20min and costs ¥740. It’s best to get a one-day pass (hiei-zan-nai ichi-nichi jyōshaken; ¥1000), which is available from the bus driver or at the Tō-dō bus terminal; this allows unlimited travel and also entitles you to a discount on entrance to Enryaku-ji.

EATING

Minemichi 峰道レストラン 4220 Sakamoto Honmachi, 2km north of Sai-tō on the road to Yokawa 0775 78 3673. Large cafeteria serving fairly standard Japanese dishes with spectacular views of Biwa-ko. There’s no English menu but you can choose from the photo menu when you order at the counter – the Hieizan soba lunch set (¥1500) is a good choice. Daily 10am–5pm; closed mid-Dec to Feb.

Ōhara

大原

Though only a short trip north from Kyoto, the collection of temples that make up ŌHARA is almost in a different world. All are sub-temples of Enryaku-ji, but the atmosphere here is quite different: instead of stately cedar forests, these little temples are surrounded by maples and flower-filled gardens that are fed by tumbling streams. The sights are divided into two sections: the easterly Sanzen-in and the melancholy Jakkō-in across the rice fields.

Sanzen-in

三千院 • 540 Raigōin-chō • Daily: March–Dec 7 8.30am–5pm; Dec 8 to Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥700 • 075 744 2531, sanzenin.or.jp/en • 10min walk uphill from the bus terminal

A fortress-like wall contains Ōhara’s most important temple, Sanzen-in. The temple is said to have been established by Saichō, the founder of Tendai Buddhism, but its main point of interest is the tenth-century Ōjōgokuraku-in, a small but splendid building standing on its own in a mossy garden. Inside is an astonishingly well-preserved tenth-century Amida Buddha flanked by smaller statues of Kannon (on the right as you face them) and Seishi, which were added later.

Shōrin-in

勝林院 • 187 Shōrinin-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 075 744 2537 • 10min walk from the bus terminal

With its thatched roof, the main hall of Shōrin-in is a very pretty sight in June when the surrounding hydrangea bushes are in bloom. Reconstructed in the 1770s and containing an image of Amida, the temple is used for studying shōmyō, the Buddhist incantations practised by followers of Tendai. Shōmyō were first introduced from China in the eighth century and have had a profound influence on music in Japan such as gagaku (court music); press the button in the booth on the left side of the altar and you can hear a short recital.

Hōsen-in

宝泉院 • 187 Shōrinin-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥800, including green tea • 075 744 2409, hosenin.net • 10min walk from the bus terminal

The main reason to visit the temple of Hōsen-in is for its intriguing garden, the highlight of which is a magnificent pine that is around seven hundred years old. The temple’s ceiling is made from planks that were originally in Fushimi Castle in southern Kyoto, where more than three hundred samurai committed seppuku (ritual suicide) after losing a battle in 1600. If you look carefully, traces of blood are still visible.

Jakkō-in

寂光院 • 676 Kusao-chō • Daily 9am–4pm; until 4.30pm in Nov • ¥700 • 075 744 2537, jakkoin.jp • 15min walk west from Ōhara bus station across the river

Situated in a quiet garden which was landscaped in the late Edo period and is fringed by a row of tufted pines, the main hall of the Jakkō-in temple had to be rebuilt after it was destroyed in an arson attack in May 2000. This unfortunately damaged its Jizō Bodhisattva and also its one-thousand-year-old pine tree (mentioned in the Tale of Heike), which withered and died in 2004. The hall was completely rebuilt, and the temple and its surrounding area have lost much of their original allure. Photos of the devastating fire are on display in the Hōmotsuden.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ŌHARA

By bus To reach Ōhara from central Kyoto, take a cream-and-red Kyoto Bus either from Kyoto Station (#17 and #18), Sanjō-Keihan Station (#16 and #17) or Kita-ōji Station (#15). The journey takes 30–50min and costs a maximum of ¥580, or you can use the Kyoto-wide subway and bus pass. The route takes you past Yase-yūen, the starting point of the Eizan cable-car up Hiei-zan, making it possible to visit both places in one rather hectic day. Note that in autumn buses are very crowded and there are frequent traffic jams on the road to Ōhara. Visiting on a weekend during this time is best avoided.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Ōhara Riverside Café Kirin 大原リバーサイドカフェ来隣 144 Raigōin-chō 075 744 2239, ohara-kirin.com. Located behind the bus station, before the bridge over the river, this spacious café in a traditional building serves a variety of tasty dishes using local vegetables. Hungry travellers will find the daily Ōhara vegetable buffet (¥1500) an excellent (and filling) deal. Kirin’s original blend drip coffee is ¥500 a cup. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–4.30pm.

Seryo 芹生 22 Shōrinin-chō 075 744 2301, seryo.co.jp. If you want to enjoy Ōhara once the crowds have gone, consider a stay at this fine ryokan, which has a choice of comfortable tatami or Western-style rooms as well as open-air and indoor onsen baths. Even if you’re not staying, Seryo is also one of the nicest places to eat in Ōhara, serving a beautifully presented bentō of seasonal vegetables (¥3850) as well as more expensive kaiseki meals (from ¥6050). In good weather you can eat outside on a riverside terrace. Daily 11am–4pm. ¥66,800

Seryo Jaya 芹生茶屋 Sanzenin-mae 075 744 2301, seryo.co.jp/cyamise. At the top of the steps, just before the entrance to Sanzen-in, Seryō Jaya is a cheap option for lunch, with a variety of tasty soba sets, served with rice and pickles, costing from ¥1050. Daily 9am–5pm.

Kurama and Kibune

鞍馬 • 貴船

Half an hour by train from Kyoto, the villages of KURAMA and KIBUNE make for a relaxing day-trip, especially during spring and autumn when the forest views are stunning. Picturesque Kibune is extremely popular in the summer, when many local restaurants erect special decks over the river. Other than the shrine of Kifune-jinja there’s not a lot to see, so it’s a good idea to combine a visit here with a trip to Kurama. Considered the spiritual home of the Japanese healing technique of reiki, Kurama’s main draws are its hot spring and the mystical Kurama-dera.

Kurama Onsen

鞍馬温泉 • 520 Kurama Honmachi • Daily 10.30am–9pm (last admission 8.20pm) • ¥2500 (includes yukata and towel rental), or outdoor bath only ¥1000 • 075 741 2131, kurama-onsen.co.jp

Towards the northern end of Kurama village is Kurama Onsen, an attractive hot spring resort in a secluded setting surrounded by sugi (cedar) trees. The indoor “grand bath” has a sauna, but the spacious outdoor bath is recommended for its pleasant natural scenery.

Kurama-dera

鞍馬寺 • 1074 Kurama Honmachi • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥200, ropeway ¥200 one-way • 075 741 2003, kuramadera.or.jp

Renowned for its spiritual atmosphere, Kurama-dera was founded in 770 by the monk, Gantei, of Tōshōdai-ji in Nara, who is said to have been led to the spot by a white horse (the name Kurama literally means “horse’s saddle”). Originally part of the Tendai Buddhist sect and a branch of Shoren-in, Kurama-dera broke away in 1949 to form its own independent sect of nature worship, Kurama-Kokyo.

It’s a steep thirty- to forty-minute climb up to the temple from Kurama village, or you can take the temple’s own ropeway. The temple buildings have been repeatedly destroyed by fire, and most are modern constructions, including the Honden (main hall), which contains replicas of several national treasures. It’s worth spending a few minutes exploring the atmospheric basement, accessible via internal stairs at either side of the main hall, illuminated by hundreds of lanterns. There are wonderful views over the valley from the courtyard in front of the Honden.

KURAMA’S FIRE FESTIVAL

Kurama’s boisterous Kurama-no-Himatsuri (fire festival; 鞍馬の火祭) is held every year on October 22. Villagers light bonfires outside their houses and local lads carry giant, flaming torches (the biggest weighing up to 100kg) to the shrine. Events climax around 8pm with a mad dash up the steps with a mikoshi (portable shrine), after which there’s heavy-duty drinking, drumming and chanting till dawn. It’s best to arrive at the festival early and leave around 10pm.

Kifune-jinja

貴船神社 • 180 Kibune-chō • Daily: May–Nov 6am–8pm; Dec–April 6am–6pm • Free • 075 741 2016, kifunejinja.jp

The small shrine of Kifune-jinja, at the top of the valley, has existed since Heian times. The gods of water are enshrined here, hence its location adjacent to the river, and the stone boat and other water-related objects in the grounds. The shrine is one of the few places practising water divination: buy an omikuji from the booth (daily 9am–5pm; ¥200), place it in the small stream nearby and your fortune (in Japanese) will become visible.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND KURAMA AND KIBUNE

By train Trains on the Eizan railway line from Demachiyanagi Station will take you directly to Kibune-guchi Station (every 15–20min; 30min; ¥420) and onto Kurama Station a few minutes later.

On foot There is a very enjoyable hike, a 4.5km forest path, that leads you over the ridge between Kurama-dera and Kifune-jinja. However, much of the route was badly damaged in a 2018 typhoon. Though the trail reopened a few months later, the effects will be visible for years – and some losses, such as a sacred tree which fell in the storm, will never be recovered.

EATING

KURAMA

Yoshūji 雍州路 1074-2 Kurama Honmachi 075 741 2848, www.yoshuji.com. This shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian) restaurant, in a traditional building, serves soba noodles (¥1080) and three different types of lunch sets. Try the Kurama Yama course (¥2700), which includes fresh yuba (tofu skin) sashimi, tororo (mountain yam) soba, rice and seasonal vegetables. Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–6pm.

KIBUNE

Hirobun ひろ文 87 Kibune-chō 075 741 2147, hirobun.co.jp. In summer, you can enjoy cool breezes on a kawaboko (platform) jutting out over the river while indulging in a sumptuous kaiseki meal (from ¥9600). Off-season, try the Nyūmen set consisting of hot somen noodles with yuba topping (¥1800). Last entry 7pm. Daily 11am–9pm.

Kokon Fujiya 古今藤や 16 Kibune-chō 075 741 1300, kokon-fujiya.jp. Peaceful little riverside café on the road between Kibune town and station. Though there are meals available, it's worth dropping by just for one on their green tea snacks, such as matcha parfait (¥1000) or zenzai (mochi with warm, sweet red beans; ¥500). Takeaway available. Daily 10.30am–9pm.

Amanohashidate

天橋立

At the northern tip of Kyoto-fu (Kyoto prefecture), the stubby peninsula of Tango-Hantō (丹後半島) leans protectively over Wakasa Bay, shielding the sand spit of AMANOHASHIDATE, the “Bridge to Heaven”. As one of the trio of top scenic views in Japan (the other two are Matsushima and Miyajima), Amanohashidate has a lot to live up to. The “bridge” is actually a 3.6km-long ribbon of white sand and pine trees slinking its way between the villages of Monju (文珠) near the train station, and Fuchū (府中) across the bay.

Monju is the main tourist hub of Amanohashidate, and has an attractive wooden temple, Chion-ji, standing on the brink of the sand bar – a lovely area for a quiet stroll or cycle ride, or simply lazing on the beach. To reach the sand bar itself, cross the red bridge, Kaisenkyō, which swings around to allow boats through the narrow channel to the open sea. The sandy, crescent-shaped beaches on the east side of the pine-forested spit are at their busiest from July to August. Above Fuchū there are fantastic views over the bay and along the coast from the touristy sightseeing park of Kasamatsu-kōen, beyond which is the splendidly atmospheric Nariai-ji, on the upper slopes of Mount Nariai.

Chion-ji

智恩寺 • 466 Jimonju • Daily 8am–5pm • Free • 0772 22 2553, monjudo-chionji.jp • A 5min walk north of Amanohashidate Station, at the end of a shopping street leading towards the sand spit

The attractive temple of Chion-ji is dedicated to the Buddhist saint of wisdom and intellect, Chie-no-Monju. Between the main gate and the hall (Monju-dō), which houses a revered image of the saint, stands the Tahoto, an unusual squat wooden pagoda dating from 1500. In the temple precincts, near the ferry jetty, you’ll see the Chie-no-wa Torō, a granite ring monument symbolizing wisdom, which has been adopted as an emblem of the town. In front of the main gate is a row of traditional teashops all serving the same local speciality, Chie-no-mochi – small rice cakes topped with a sweet red bean paste; locals say eating them grants you wisdom.

Kasamatsu-kōen

傘松公園 • Fuchū • Funicular and chairlift evey 15min daily 8am–5.30pm • ¥680 return • tankai.jp/amanohashidate_cablecar_chairlift

On the lower slopes of Mount Nariai is Kasamatsu-kōen, the principal lookout point over Amanohashidate. Signs demonstrate how best to do the “mata-nozoki”: turn your back to Amanohashidate and bend over with your head between your legs, so that the view of the sand spit seems to float in midair like a bridge to heaven. A short way up the stone steps is a quieter viewing platform, away from the fairly tacky development around the cable car station.

Nariai-ji

成相寺 • Fuchū • Daily 8am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 0772 27 0018, nariaiji.jp • 20min walk up the mountain from Kasamatsu-kōen; or catch a bus (¥1100 return, which includes entry to the temple)

Founded in 704 AD and dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, Nariai-ji is a charming rustic temple surrounded by lofty pines. It is one of the 33 temples on the Saigoku Kannon pilgrim route, and so attracts a steady stream of visitors, many of whom clutch elaborate hanging scrolls which are specially inscribed at each temple. Legend has it that if you pray at the temple and make a vow to Kannon, your prayer will be granted.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AMANOHASHIDATE

By train Trains to Amanohashidate Station (天橋立駅) in Monju run along the scenic Kita-kinki Tango Tetsudō (北近畿丹後鉄道) line, on which JR Passes are not valid. When taking the express service from Osaka (hourly; 2hr) and Kyoto (hourly; 2hr), you may be required to switch in Fukuchiyama. There are a few direct JR trains from Amagasaki, Kyoto and Osaka, which take around 2hr 30min.

By bus Buses from both Kyoto Station (¥2950; 3 daily) and Shin-Osaka Station (¥2800; 3 daily) take around 2hr 40min.

Tourist information The staff at the tourist information office (daily 9am–6pm; 0772 22 8030) inside Amanohashidate Station are helpful but don’t speak much English, although they can provide English-language pamphlets on the area and help with accommodation bookings. There’s also free wi-fi access here.

Services The post office ATM, opposite the station, takes international cards (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm). There's also one across the sand bar in Fuchū.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Buses from Monju across the bay to Fuchū (15 daily; 20min; ¥400) and around the Tango peninsula leave from outside Amanohashidate Station until 7pm.

By ferry Ferries run between Monju and Fuchū (18 daily; 12min; ¥600 one-way, ¥1000 return; last ferry at 4.45pm) from the jetty beside Chion-ji, a 5min walk from the station, to the Fuchū-side jetty at Ichinomiya.

By bike Bicycles can be rented from various shops close to Amanohashidate Station and near both jetties (¥400–500 for 2hr); they’re also allowed on the sand bar.

On foot It takes about 50min to stroll the 2.4km across the sand bar from Monju to Fuchū.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Monju has the widest range of accommodation. The tourist information desk at the station can help with accommodation but it’s best to book in advance, especially if you arrive late in the day. Note that businesses in the area close early, especially in winter, and there are no 24-hour convenience stores, so it’s best to eat meals at your accommodation.

FUCHŪ

Amanohashidate Youth Hostel 天橋立ユースホステル 905 Nakano, Fuchū 0772 27 0121, hashidate-yh.jp/english. This hostel is a 15min hike uphill to the right from the ferry and bus stop at Ichinomiya, but it’s worth it for the pleasant location and wonderful views. It has bunk-bed dorms, a comfy lounge, helpful English-speaking staff and a slightly rusty selection of bikes to rent (¥300/day) – they're a joy to ride downhill from the hostel, and back and forth over the sand bar. An excellent breakfast is ¥620, dinner ¥980 (book ahead). Dorms ¥3150

Tsuruya Shokudō つるや食堂 848 Nakano, Fuchū 0772 27 0114. A simple, friendly café attached to a souvenir shop by the lower cable car station. Cake sets are ¥750, but you can also get a generous bowl of noodles (from ¥650) or traditional treats like zenzai and amazake (from ¥400). Daily 8am–5pm.

MONJU

Café du Pin カフェドパン 468 Jimonju 0772 22 1313. One of the nicest places to take a break in Monju. It’s near the bridge to the sand spit and serves curry and rice (¥1000), sandwiches (¥750), cake sets (¥800), good coffee and the award-winning local wine. Also sometimes has performances and yoga classes, and is dog friendly. Daily 9am–6pm.

Hashidatejaya はしだて茶屋 Monju 0772 22 3363, hashidate-chaya.jp. Nestling amid the pines at the Monju end of the sand spit, this traditional restaurant serves good-value meals and snacks, including hearty bowls of asari-don (small shellfish and green vegetables on rice) for ¥1000. 9.30am–5pm; closed Thurs outside of summer.

Monjusō Shōrotei 文殊荘松露亭 Monju 0772 22 2151, shourotei.com. Exquisite high-end ryokan behind Chion-ji temple, set amid private gardens at the tip of a mini-peninsula overlooking the sand bar. Shōrotei’s cuisine and hospitality are both excellent. Rates vary widely; two meals included. ¥79,800

Toriki 鳥喜 463-5 Monju 0772 22 0010, www.toriki.jp. This ryōri ryokan (cuisine inn) doesn’t look very fancy but it’s well-known for serving top-class local cuisine. All the rooms are tatami-style, and there’s also an onsen in the garden. The convenient location and friendly atmosphere make this an excellent choice. Breakfast and dinner included. ¥30,000

Ine

伊根

The charming fishing hamlet of INE, sheltering in a hook-like inlet towards the eastern end of the Tango pensinula, is a wonderful place to experience peaceful village life by the sea and eat deliciously fresh fish. The main tourist attraction is the picturesque rows of funaya (wooden boat houses), some of which date from the Edo period. There are some 230 traditional houses built over the water, with space beneath for fishing boats to be stored – from a distance the buildings appear to be floating on the water. Many films and television dramas have been filmed here, including the Tora-san series. One of the older funaya houses the Mukai Sake Brewery (向井酒造; daily 9am–noon & 1–5pm; 0772 32 0003, kuramoto-mukai.jp), a great spot for souvenirs and tastings. The master brewer, Mukai Kuniko, may even be on hand to give her recommendations; be sure to try the unusual variety made from a local red rice.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND INE

By bus Buses for Ine (15 daily) depart from in front of Amanohashidate Station (55min; ¥400) and go via Fuchū (bus stop near Motoise Kono Shrine; 30min; ¥200).

By bike You can borrow bikes (which vary in quality) for free 24hr a day (no deposit necessary) from the bus stop near the Ine Bay boat cruise jetty, with five drop-off/pick-up “ports” around the village. There are also some excellent e-bikes available for ¥2000/day from the tourist information centre.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information The very helpful Ine tourist information office (daily 9am–5pm; 0772 32 0277, ine-kankou.jp) is located in Fuya-no-Sato Park on the hill overlooking Ine. There's usually an English-speaking member of staff on site, and they can help with accommodation and sea taxi reservations. There's also a souvenir shop, with many items featuring the village's mascot – a cute boathouse, called Funayan.

Boat trips Sightseeing boats (伊根湾めぐり遊覽船, lne-wan Meguri Yūransen; several daily 9am–4pm; every 30min; 25min tour ¥800; 0772 32 0009, inewan.com/#kankousen) circle Ine Bay from the jetty at the western end of town, providing a comprehensive but brief view of the unusual architecture of the funaya. A more satisfying experience is to rent a sea taxi (usually ¥1000/person for 30min; minimum two passengers) from one of the funaya and tour the bay at your leisure.

E-bike tours These 2hr tours led by an English-speaking guide are a great way to get to know Ine (¥3500/person; coubic.com/oceankyoto), and include a stop for tea in a funaya, and e-bike rental for the rest of the day. There's a charging station at nearby Ukawa hot spring. There are plans to add trips from Amanohashidate to Ine, including luggage transfer (around ¥4000) – use the online contact form to enquire if you're interested.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Staying in Ine is not cheap, but it's a truly unique experience. Few restaurants are open in the evenings, so it's best to get meals at your accommodation. Rates below include two meals.

Kagiya 鍵屋 0772 32 0356, ine-kagiya.net. This comfortable modern funaya has a living and dining space on the first floor with sublime views of the bay. Upstairs are two stylish bedrooms that can sleep up to eight guests. ¥45,000

Kamome かもめ 0772 32 0025. This small restaurant and coffee shop is above a souvenir shop on the main road leading into Ine and has wonderful views of the bay. Tasty lunch sets with fresh local fish, miso soup and pickles around ¥1500. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–6pm.

Kurachū 倉忠 0772 32 0532, bit.ly/kurachu. Small, friendly funaya with a focus on serving the very freshest fish. Only one group (1–10 people) can book a time, sleeping upstairs and dining right by the water downstairs. The owner can pick guests up by car from the bus stop. ¥30,000

Shibatasō しばた荘 0772 32 0254, shibata-sou.com. Located along the coast north of Ine, this large, traditional-style minshuku serves excellent kaiseki cuisine as well as crab and yellowtail when in season. There are six tatami rooms which can sleep up to 20 guests. The owner can pick up guests by car from the boat cruise jetty. ¥24,860

Yoshimura よしむら 0772 32 0062. This restaurant is a great spot for lunch, right in the centre of Ine. Multicourse lunch sets of various super-fresh fish dishes including sashimi start at ¥2000. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–2pm.

Hikone

彦根

On the northeastern shore of Biwa-ko, Japan’s largest lake, lies the stately castle town of HIKONE, an easy day-trip or a pleasant overnight stay from Kyoto. This attractive town not unreasonably claims that it has retained the look and feel of the Edo period more than any other place in the country. Its castle is one of the few in Japan to have remained intact since the early seventeenth century, and is well worth a visit. Hikone is also known for its butsudan (Buddhist altar) industry and the town has an abundance of shops with elaborate altars on display. Hikone’s main attractions can all be seen on foot and, except during the cherry blossom season when the castle is engulfed by hordes of tourists, the town can be enjoyed at a leisurely and crowd-free pace.

Hikone-jō

彦根城 • 1-1 Konki-chō • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥800 combined ticket with Genkyū-en, or ¥1200 combined ticket with Hikone-jō museum and Genkyū-en • 0749 22 2742, visit.hikoneshi.com/en/castle

Very little has changed in the four hundred years and more that Hikone-jō has stood on the hill looking out onto the town and the lake. One of the most authentic castles remaining in Japan, it is also one of only four designated as a national treasure. There are spectacular views of Biwa-ko from the donjon on a clear day, and with very few modern buildings and little pollution to obscure the panorama it is possible to imagine something of what people in the Edo period may have seen.

Hikone-jō was built between 1602 and 1622 by the Ii family from the ruins of other castles in the area, including one on the original site. If you look at the stone walls as you climb up the hill, you can see that the style is inconsistent. The lower levels were constructed by untrained labourers while the upper levels have been assembled using the patchwork-like gobo-zumi masonry technique. Although the walls look rather precarious, they have successfully protected the castle from earthquake damage since their construction. The fortress is double-moated and also features many yagura or turrets: look out for the tenbin-yagura, in the unique shape of a tenbin (Japanese scales), and the taikomon-yagura, so-called because a taiko or Japanese drum was kept there to send warnings.

Hikone-jō Museum

彦根城博物館, Hikone-jō Hakubutsukan • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥500, or ¥1200 combined ticket with Hikone-jō and Genkyū-en • 0749 22 6100, hikone-castle-museum.jp/en

Just inside the main gate of the castle, the Hikone-jō Museum was reconstructed in 1987 and is an exact copy of the Edo-period official quarter of the castle. Inside you can see how the Ii family lived: their nō stage, tearoom and living area have been re-created, and there are a large number of artefacts on display, including nō costumes, weaponry, calligraphy manuscripts and other artworks.

Genkyū-en

玄宮園 • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥200, or ¥800 combined ticket with Hikone-jō, or ¥1200 combined ticket with Hikone-jō and Hikone-jō Museum • 0749 22 2742

On the northeast side of Hikone-jō is the Genkyū-en. Built in 1677, the garden is modelled on the ancient Chinese palace of Tang-dynasty emperor Genso and features a large pond full of carp. Genkyū-en has many imitation scenes of the region and the pond is Biwa-ko in miniature. The Hoshō-dai teahouse, where the Ii lords entertained, is a good place to stop for a bowl of matcha and a sweet (¥500) while enjoying pleasant views of the garden and castle.

Yume-Kyōbashi Castle Road

夢京橋キャッスルロード • yumekyobashi.jp

The Yume-Kyōbashi Castle Road, south of Hikone-jō, is a charming imitation of a bustling Edo-period merchant area. The 350m-long stretch of road has modern reconstructions of traditional Japanese shops on both sides, housing a variety of cafés, restaurants, bars and souvenir shops. At the end of the road farthest from the castle, turn left into Yonban-chō, another reconstructed area. Here, dozens of small shops and restaurants have been built in a style reminiscent of the Taishō era of the 1920s.

Ryōtanji

龍潭寺 • 1104 Furusawa-chō • Daily 9am–4pm • ¥400 • 0749 22 2777 • 10min taxi ride north of JR Hikone Station

The Zen temple Ryōtanji, located on the eastern edge of the town, was founded in 733 and was the family temple of the Ii lords. The temple was once an important centre for Zen gardening and its gardens were designed by monks in training. The Fudaraku stone garden, dating from 1670, is considered to be a fine example of the genre, and is especially nice in autumn when it’s framed by momiji maple leaves. Walking through the slightly dilapidated temple, with its odd assortment of displays, you reach the dry waterfall garden; here, naturally shaped stones and shrubs are evocatively arranged, seeming to tumble into a pond with an unusual tortoise-shaped rock.

Tennei-ji

天寧寺 • 232 Satone-chō • Daily 8am–4pm • ¥400 • 0749 22 5313 • 30min walk from JR Hikone Station

East of Hikone-jō, at the well-kept Zen temple of Tennei-ji, 500 Buddhist disciples who reached Nirvana are enshrined as Gohyaku Rakan wooden statues. It is said that you should be able to find a face that resembles someone you know among the statues. From the temple’s stone garden there is an excellent view of Hikone-jō. On the way out, don’t forgot to rub the belly of Budai, the god of fortune, for good luck.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HIKONE

By train Express JR trains take 1hr 30min from Osaka and 50min from Kyoto. On the Shinkansen Tokaido line, get off at Maibara Station (25min from Kyoto) and change for the JR Biwako line to Hikone Station (5min). From here, it’s about a 10min walk to the castle area.

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist office (daily 9am–5pm; 0749 22 2954, visit.hikoneshi.com/en) with English-speaking staff at JR Hikone Station, on your left-hand side as you exit: you can also pick up English pamphlets on Hikone here, and book the services of English-speaking volunteer guides ( visit.hikoneshi.com/en/guide).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Both Yume-Kyōbashi and Yonban-chō are good bets for a range of cafés and restaurants.

Hotel Estacion Hikone ホテルエスタシオンひこね 8-31 Asahimachi 0749 22 1500, estacion-hikone.com. This friendly and efficient business hotel is conveniently located near the JR station and shopping area. Rooms are on the small side but are clean and well appointed. Breakfast included. ¥7400

Hikone Castle Resort & Spa 彦根キャッスルリゾート＆スパ 1-8 Sawa-chō 0749 21 2001, hch.jp. This hotel is situated right on the northeast corner of the castle moat, and has an in-house spa. Rooms are clean, spacious and most have clear views of the castle; superior rooms come with private semi-open air baths. The hotel restaurant serves local Omi beef lunch and dinner courses. Two meals included in rates, which vary widely by date. Free pick-up from station if reserved in advance. ¥48,400

Hokkoriya ほっこりや 2-2-11 Hon-chō 0749 21 3567, ichien.jp/hokkoriya. This popular izakaya on the Yume Kyōbashi Castle Road is in an atmospheric traditional-style house, serving a variety of local chicken dishes, such as yakitori (¥380 per stick) and chicken with rice donburi (¥1380). There’s no English menu, but staff speak a little English and will also help with suggesting local Shiga sake (from ¥650 a glass) to pair with your food. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–11pm.

Honmachi Juku 本町宿 3-55 Honmachi 3-chōme 0749 30 9932, honmachi.hcdf.jp. This ryokan is in a beautifully restored traditional house close to Yume-Kyōbashi Castle Road. There’s a choice of rooms, with either futon or bed, with shared facilities. The hearty breakfast made with local produce is particularly good. Unusually, they also offer a photography-focused stay, which includes instruction on the most photogenic spots and how best to capture them. ¥11,000

Ishiyama-dera

石山寺 • 1-1-1 Ishiyama-dera, Ōtsu, Shiga-ken • Daily 10am–4.30pm • ¥600, special exhibitions ¥300–500 • 077 537 1105, ishiyamadera.or.jp • From Kyoto Station, take a local train on the JR Biwa-ko line (for Nagahama or Maibara) to Ishiyama Station (every 10–15min; 15min), then change to the Keihan line for the short ride to Ishiyama-dera Station; the temple is a 10min walk from there

At the southern edge of Biwa-ko, just 20km southeast of Kyoto city, is the quiet and secluded Ishiyama-dera. Founded in the eighth century, this Shingon-sect temple has an important literary connection: Murasaki Shikibu wrote The Tale of Genji here. The temple holds a vast collection of related manuscripts and art that are displayed at certain times of the year in the special exhibition hall (check the website for dates); in the temple itself there aren’t any Genji relics on display except for a tacky mechanical robot of Murasaki Shikibu in a glass case. The pleasant gardens surrounding the temple can be explored by a network of meandering paths.

Miho Museum

ミホミュージアム • 300 Tashiro Momodani, Shigaraki, Shiga-ken • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (last entry 4pm); only open for a few months every year, check website for details • ¥1100 • 0748 82 3411, miho.jp/en

Around 50km south of Kyoto, the I.M. Pei-designed Miho Museum is one of the architectural highlights of the Kansai region. Located in a rural, mountainous part of Shiga Prefecture, which is best known for its Shigaraki pottery, this stunning museum houses an incredible collection of artworks belonging to the late Koyama Mihoko and her daughter Hiroko. Koyama, after whom the museum is named, founded Shinji Shūmeikai, one of Japan’s so-called “new religions”, in 1970. There are an estimated 300,000 followers worldwide, hundreds of whom live and work here at the museum. The central tenet of Shinji Shūmeikai’s philosophy is that spiritual fulfilment lies in art and nature, hence the setting.

From the entrance, access to the museum proper is by an electric shuttle bus through a tunnel that opens onto a beautiful valley spanned by a 120m-high bridge; alternatively, you can walk – it takes about ten minutes. Inside the museum, which is built into the mountainside, a continually shifting pattern of light and shadow is created by the innovative use of skylights, pyramid-shaped wall lights and ever-so-slightly uneven corridors which look out – through windows fitted with aluminium screens – onto bamboo gardens and tranquil green landscapes.

The collection

The museum has two wings. The north wing houses Japanese art, including priceless porcelain, scrolls, screens and Buddhist relics; the south wing has antiquities from the rest of the world, including jewellery, frescoes, textiles and statues produced by a range of civilizations, from ancient Egyptian to classical Chinese. Among the numerous treasures are a three-thousand-year-old silver-and-gold cult figure of a falcon-headed deity from Egypt’s nineteenth dynasty, a fourth-century AD Roman floor mosaic and a statue dating from the second century AD of a Gandhara Buddha. Each artwork is labelled in English and Japanese and there are explanatory leaflets in some of the galleries, but the overall effect is one of art that is meant to be experienced for its intrinsic beauty rather than its historical or cultural import.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MIHO MUSEUM

By train and bus There are tours available to the museum from Kyoto but it is better (and much cheaper) to make the journey there by yourself. From Kyoto Station, take a local train on the JR Biwa-ko line (for Nagahama or Maibara) to JR Ishiyama Station (every 10–15min; 15min). From here, buses run by the Teisan Bus Company ( teisan-konan-kotsu.co.jp) depart from the station’s south exit (daily at 10min past the hour 9.10am–1.10pm, plus extra buses at 9.50am & 2.10pm on Sat, Sun & national holidays; 50min; ¥840). If you miss the last bus (around 5pm), you’ll have to take a taxi, which is quite expensive (¥6000).

EATING

Peach Valley Miho Museum reception area 0748 82 3411. The museum's excellent vegetarian organic restaurant is extremely popular. The lunch menu is seasonal and all dishes are made from locally grown ingredients. The Onigiri-zen (rice ball set menu) is beautifully presented (¥1800), and the soba and udon lunch sets, served hot or cold (from ¥800), are also delicious. Daily 10am–4pm.

Nara

奈良

Before Kyoto became the capital of Japan in 794 AD, this honour was held by NARA, a town some 35km further south in an area that is regarded as the birthplace of Japanese civilization. During this period, particularly the seventh and eighth centuries, Buddhism became firmly established within Japan under the patronage of court nobles, who sponsored magnificent temples and works of art, many of which have survived to this day. Fortunately, history subsequently left Nara largely to its own devices and it remains today a relaxed, attractive place set against a backdrop of wooded hills.

Nara’s grid-street system is well signposted in English, and the main sights, which include some UNESCO World Heritage Sites, are all gathered on the city’s eastern edge in the green expanse of Nara-kōen. Its greatest draws are undoubtedly the monumental bronze Buddha of Tōdai-ji, and Nara’s holiest shrine, Kasuga Taisha, with its rows of lanterns and attractive new museum, while Kōfuku-ji, Sangatsu-dō and Shin-Yakushi-ji all boast outstanding collections of Buddhist statuary. The town also retains the well-preserved traditional merchant’s quarter of Nara-machi, where some quaint old shophouses have been converted into museums and craft shops.

All Nara’s sights are packed into a fairly compact space, and the central area is easily explored on foot. It can just about be covered in a day-trip from Kyoto, though if you want to visit the more distant temples you’ll need to stay overnight – this gives you the added advantage of being able to enjoy a more peaceful atmosphere once the crowds have left. If at all possible, try to avoid Nara on Sundays and during holidays, when it can become exceptionally crowded.

Brief history

During the fifth and sixth centuries a sophisticated culture evolved in the plains east of Osaka, an area known as Yamato. Close contact between Japan, Korea and China saw the introduction of Chinese script, technology and the Buddhist religion, as well as Chinese ideas on law and administration. Under these influences, the regent Prince Shōtoku (574–622) established a strictly hierarchical system of government. However, he’s probably best remembered as a devout Buddhist who founded numerous temples, among them the great Hōryū-ji . Though Shōtoku’s successors continued the process of centralization, they were hampered by the practice of relocating the court after each emperor died, in line with purification rites. In 710 AD, therefore, it was decided to establish a permanent capital modelled on China’s imperial city, Chang’an (today’s Xi’an). The name chosen for this new city was Heijō-kyō, “Citadel of Peace”, today known as Nara.

In fact, Heijō-kyō lasted little more than seventy years, but it was a glorious period in which Japanese culture began to take shape. A frenzy of building and artistic creativity culminated in the unveiling of the great bronze Buddha in Tōdai-ji by Emperor Shōmu in 752 AD. But beneath the surface things were starting to unravel. As the temples became increasingly powerful, so the monks began to dabble in politics, until one, Dōkyō, seduced a former empress and tried to seize the throne in 769. In an attempt to escape such shenanigans Emperor Kammu decided to move the court out of Nara in 784, and eventually founded Kyoto.

Nara-kōen

奈良公園

The ancient forested parklands on the eastern side of Nara are known as Nara-kōen and house many of the town’s most important historical and religious sites. The park is also home to more than a thousand semi-wild deer, which were originally regarded as divine messengers of the Shintō gods – anyone who killed a deer was liable to be dispatched themselves shortly afterwards. Vendors sell shika sembei (deer crackers) for feeding the deer throughout the park. The most pleasant route into Nara-kōen is along Sanjō-dōri, which cuts across the central district and brings you out near the pond of Sarusawa-ike (猿沢池).

Kōfuku-ji

興福寺 • 48 Noboriōji-chō • Grounds Daily 24hr • Free • Buildings Daily 9am–5pm • Tōkon-dō ¥300, Kokuhōkan ¥700 (combination ticket ¥900), Chūkon-dō ¥500 • 0742 22 4096, kohfukuji.com

The picturesque Five-Storey Pagoda which rises from the trees on the northern edge of Sarusawa-ike belongs to Kōfuku-ji, which in the eighth century was one of Nara’s great temples. Founded in 669 by a member of the Fujiwara clan, it was moved to its present location when Nara became the new capital in 710. Though you can explore the grounds for free (daily 24hr), taking in impressive buildings like the Chūkon-dō (Central Hall), the prime draw here is the fine collection of Buddhist statues contained in the Tōkon-dō and the Kokuhōkan.

Tōkon-dō

東金堂

The Tōkon-dō, a fifteenth-century hall to the north of the Five-Storey Pagoda, is dominated by a large image of Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Healing. He’s flanked by three bodhisattvas, the Four Heavenly Kings and the Twelve Heavenly Generals, all beady-eyed guardians of the faith, some of which date from the eighth century. Perhaps the most interesting statue, though, is the seated figure of Yuima Koji to the left of Yakushi Nyorai; depicting an ordinary mortal rather than a celestial being, it’s a touchingly realistic portrait.

Kokuhōkan

国宝館

The modern Kokuhōkan is a treasure-trove of early Buddhist statues. The most famous image is the standing figure of Ashura, one of Buddha’s eight protectors, instantly recognizable from his three red-tinted heads. Look out, too, for his companion Karura (Garuda) with his beaked head. Though they’re not all on display at the same time, these eight protectors are considered to be the finest dry-lacquer images of the Nara period. The collection also includes a large bronze Buddha head; apart from a crumpled left ear, it's in remarkably good condition considering that the original statue was stolen from another temple by Kōfuku-ji’s warrior priests sometime during the Heian period (794–1185). After a fire destroyed its body, the head was buried beneath the replacement Buddha, only to be rediscovered in 1937 during renovation work.

Chūkon-dō

中金堂

The Chūkon-dō, originally built around 710, was lost to fire no fewer than seven times over the centuries. After a catastrophic blaze in 1717, only a smaller, temporary replacement was built, and it remained this way until the twenty-first century. Finally, in 2018, a reconstruction of the elaborate original building was completed, a much more fitting home for treasures it houses; the principal icon is a seated figure of the historical Buddha.

Nara National Museum

奈良国立博物館, Nara Kokuritsu Hakubutkan • 50 Noboriōji-chō • Tues–Thurs & Sun 9.30am–5pm; Fri & Sat 9.30am–8pm; closed late Oct to early Nov for Shōsō-in Treasures exhibition • ¥520; ¥1100 for special exhibitions • 050 5542 8600, www.narahaku.go.jp

The Nara National Museum holds a superb collection of centuries-old Buddhist art, of which only a small part is on display at any one time. The exhibits are arranged chronologically, so you can trace the development of the various styles, and there’s plenty of English-language information available. The main Western-style building houses the sculpture collection, while the modern annexe is where the museum’s Shōsō-in Treasures exhibition – a collection of treasures from Tōdai-ji – is shown once a year (see below). In the lower-level passageway between the original building and the annexe you’ll find an informative display that explains the forms, techniques and other characteristics of Buddhist art. It’s an excellent primer before exploring Nara’s temples.

Yoshiki-en

吉城園 • 60-1 Noboriōji-chō • Daily 9am–5pm; closed for 2 weeks in Feb • ¥250, or free for foreign visitors (ID required) • 0742 22 5911

Located in the quiet, traditional streets on the western edge of Nara-kōen, attractive Yoshiki-en is made up of three different sections: the Garden of Tea Ceremony Flowers, Moss Garden and Pond Garden. It makes a very pleasant place to while away an hour, enjoying different vantage points of the tea house and the perfectly pruned pines reflected in the water.

Tōdai-ji

東大寺 • 406-1 Zoshi-chō • Daily: April–Oct 7.30am–5.30pm; Nov–March 8am–5pm • ¥600; audio guides ¥500 • 0742 22 5511, todaiji.or.jp

THE GREAT BUDDHA

Housed in the Daibutsu-den, the great Buddha (Daibutsu) depicts Rushana (later known as Dainichi Nyorai), the Cosmic Buddha who presides over all levels of the Buddhist universe. The statue was a phenomenal achievement for the time. Not surprisingly, several attempts at casting the Buddha failed, but finally in 752 the gilded statue was officially dedicated by symbolically “opening” its eyes. To achieve this, an Indian priest stood on a special platform and “painted” the eyes with a huge brush, from which coloured strings trailed down to the assembled dignitaries, enabling them to participate in the ceremony. Not only were there hundreds of local monks present, but also ambassadors from China, India and further afield, bearing an amazing array of gifts, many of which have been preserved in the Shōsō-in treasury – as has the original paintbrush.

The Buddha has had a rough time of it since then. As early as the ninth century an earthquake toppled his head, then it and his right hand were melted in a fire in 1180 and again in 1567. As a result, only tiny fragments of the original statue remain intact, the rest being made up of patchwork parts put together over the centuries. Nonetheless, the remodelled giant is definitely large – in fact, it's the biggest bronze Buddha in the world – and it’s hard not to be impressed by the technological triumph involved in re-creating it.

SHŌSŌ-IN TREASURES

Each autumn (late Oct to early Nov), the Nara National Museum is closed for two weeks while an exhibition of the Shōsō-in Treasures (正倉院) takes place. This priceless collection was donated to Tōdai-ji in 756 by Empress Kōmyō, on the death of her husband Emperor Shōmu, and then added to with more treasures in 950. It contains unique examples of Buddhist art and ritual objects, musical instruments, household utensils, glassware and games, not only from eighth-century Japan but also from the countries of the Silk Road – China, Korea, India and Persia. The exhibition takes a different theme each year; check narahaku.go.jp for details.

For many people Nara is synonymous with the great temple of Tōdai-ji, which was founded in 745 by Emperor Shōmu, ostensibly to ward off the terrible epidemics that regularly swept the nation, but also as a means of cementing imperial power. In doing so he nearly bankrupted his young nation, but the political message came across loud and clear; soon an extensive network of sub-temples spread throughout the provinces, where they played an important role in local administration. It took more than fifteen years to complete Tōdai-ji, which isn’t surprising when you learn that the main hall is still frequently cited as the world’s largest wooden building. Even so, the present structure (last rebuilt in 1709) is only two-thirds the size of the original. Avoid visiting Tōdai-ji at weekends, especially in spring and autumn, the two peak times for visiting Nara, when the temple is overrun with thousands of tourists and school groups.

Daibutsu-den

大仏殿

The main entrance to Tōdai-ji lies through the suitably impressive Nandai-mon (南大門), or Great Southern Gate. Rebuilt in the thirteenth century, it shelters two wonderfully expressive guardian gods (Niō), each standing over 7m tall. Beyond, you begin to see the horned, sweeping roof of the Daibutsu-den, the Great Buddha Hall, which houses Japan’s largest bronze statue, a giant 15m-tall blackened figure on a lotus throne, that seems to strain at the very walls of the building. As you walk round the hall, don’t be surprised to see people trying to squeeze through a hole in one of the rear supporting pillars – success apparently reserves you a corner of paradise.

Nigatsu-dō

二月堂 • 406-1 Zoshi-chō • Daily 24hr • Free

Built on the slopes of Wakakusa-yama, which forms Nara’s eastern boundary, Nigatsu-dō is a sub-temple of Tōdai-ji. It’s well worth a visit to enjoy the expansive views over the city from its second-floor wooden terrace, where dozens of lanterns hang and are lit every day at dusk – a rather beautiful sight. Next to the terrace, a rest area for pilgrims serves tea. Nigatsu-dō is the site of the O-Taimatsu and O-Mizutori ceremonies held in March every year.

Sangatsu-dō

三月堂 • 406-1 Zoshi-chō • Daily: April–Oct 7.30am–5.30pm; Nov–March 8am–5pm • ¥600

Another sub-temple of Tōdai-ji, the single-storey Sangatsu-dō was completed in 729, making it Nara’s oldest building. Also known as Hokke-dō, it contains another rare collection of eighth-century dry-lacquer statues. The main image is a dimly lit, gilded figure of Kannon, bearing a silver Amida in its crown, while all around stand gods, guardians, bodhisattvas and other protectors of the faith.

Kasuga Taisha

春日大社 • 160 Kasugano-chō • Shrine Daily dawn–dusk • Free; inner shrine ¥500 • Museum Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • Garden Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 0742 22 7788, kasugataisha.or.jp

Some two thousand stone lanterns line the approach to Kasuga Taisha (Kasuga Grand Shrine), which is nestled in the hillside of Wakakusa-yama. It was founded in 768 AD as the tutelary shrine of the Fujiwara family and, for a while, held an important place in Shintō worship; indeed, the emperor still sends a messenger here to participate in shrine rituals. The four sanctuaries are just visible in the inner compound, while the thousand beautifully crafted bronze lanterns hanging round the outer eaves are easier to admire. Donated over the years by supplicants, they bear intricate designs of deer, wisteria blooms, leaves or geometric patterns. The best time to see them is when they are lit up twice a year for the Mantōrō (“Ten-thousand lantern”) festivals: on February 3 marking setsubun, the beginning of spring; and during Obon, the festival of souls, in mid-August for the Chūgen Mantōrō festival. Alternatively, try to visit in the early morning or dusk, when the stone lanterns are lit.

Kasuga Taisha museum

春日大社国宝殿, Kasuga Taisha Kokuhō Dono

Kasuga Taisha’s small but beautifully laid out museum, on the east side of the main gate, contains the shrine’s superb collection of designated national treasures. Kasuga Taisha’s long connection with the samurai class between the Kamakura and Edo periods (1192–1867) accounts for the number of elaborately decorated swords and well-preserved armour. However, the highlights of the museum are the Dadaiko (“great drum”) Hall, featuring drums used in the On-matsuri, and the two stunning installations by artist Okayasu Izumi, intended to evoke the spirit of the forest as a place for communing with the gods.

Kasuga Taisha Shin-en

春日大社神苑

Near the entrance to Kasuga Taisha’s inner shrine, the Kasuga Taisha Shin-en is especially charming in early May when the dozens of varieties of wisteria are in bloom. The garden is also a living museum of over nine hundred flowers, herbs and other plants mentioned in the verses of the Manyōshū (“Collection of Ten Thousand Leaves”) poetry anthology, compiled in the Nara and early Heian periods.

Shin-Yakushi-ji

新薬師寺 • 1352 Takabatake-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥600 • 0742 22 3736, shinyakushiji.or.jp • From Kasuga Taisha, continue south through the woods, then cross the main road into a quiet residential area and walk for a further 5min

The temple of Shin-Yakushi-ji was founded by Empress Kōmyō to pray for Emperor Shōmu’s recovery from an eye infection; she apparently had some success, since he lived for another decade. Inside the temple’s quiet precincts, a modest-looking hall houses a stunning collection of eighth-century Buddhist statues. The central image is a placid-looking, slightly cross-eyed Yakushi Nyorai (the Buddha of Healing), carved from one block of cinnamon wood. He’s surrounded by a ring of clay statues of the Twelve Heavenly Generals; it’s worth visiting just to see their wonderful manga-like expressions and poses.

Nara Prefectural Museum of Art

奈良県立美術館, Nara Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 10-6 Noboriōji-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥400, or free for foreign visitors (ID required); special exhibitions usually around ¥1000 • 0742 23 3968, www.visitnara.jp/venues/A00431 • 5min walk east from Kintetsu-Nara Station

The Nara Prefectural Museum of Art, housed in a 1970s building with a design meant to evoke temple architecture, houses a well-balanced collection of over 4000 mostly Meiji- and Edo-era pieces, many with English explanations. It's the special exhibitions, however, which are particularly worth seeing, ranging from Swiss lithographs to Taishō-era woodblock prints.

NARA’S MASCOT

Many towns in Japan, as well as companies and even restaurants, have their own mascot – usually a cute manga-style character. As part of Nara’s 1300th anniversary celebrations in 2010, a strange half-deer/half-boy monk called Sento-kun appeared as Nara’s official mascot. Sento-kun received a lot of criticism from both the media and the public for being “creepy” and a waste of ¥5 million of taxpayers’ money. Many religious organizations were also not happy about his distinctive Buddhist appearance combined with deer antlers and called the mascot “sacrilegious”. However, Sento-kun has endured and can be found in different forms all over the city.

Nara-machi

ならまち

The southern district of central Nara is known as Nara-machi. It’s a quaint area of narrow streets, worth exploring for its traditional shops and lattice-front houses. The best approach is to start by the southwest corner of willow-fringed Sarusawa-ike, a good spot for views of the Five-Storey Pagoda, and then head south.

Nara-machi Shiryōkan

奈良町資料館 • 14 Nishonoshinya-chō • Daily 10am–5pm • Free • 0742 22 5509, naramachi.co.jp

Strings of red-cloth monkeys (good-luck charms) hang outside the Nara-machi Shiryōkan, a small museum which occupies the former warehouse of a mosquito-net manufacturer. It houses a wonderful jumble of antique household utensils, shop signboards, Buddhist statues, pots and other folkloric objects from the local area. Of special note is the Zinemon Gara Ōzara, a large ceramic plate almost 2m in diameter, which was used to serve worshippers at festivals.

Nara-machi Kōshi-no-ie

ならまち格子の家 • 44 Gangōji-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Free • 0742 23 4820

One of Nara-machi’s best-preserved traditional houses, Nara-machi Kōshi-no-ie is an Edo-period merchant’s dwelling with a long and narrow interior, including an inner courtyard garden. You can explore the house at will, but the staff will also happily demonstrate various features, such as the clever operating mechanism of the front door and kitchen skylights.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NARA

BY TRAIN

Nara has two stations: the JR Nara Station, on the west side of the town centre, and the private Kintetsu-Nara Station, which is close to the main sights. The Kintetsu Rail Pass (one day ¥1500; 2 days ¥2500; 5 days ¥3900) is especially good value if you're planning to visit other sights near Nara, which are mostly on the same network.

From Kyoto The quickest option is a Limited Express train on the private Kintetsu–Kyoto line (every 30min; 35min); the ordinary express takes a little longer and you have to change at Yamato-Saidaiji (1–2 hourly; 45min). JR also has a choice of express trains (8 daily; 45min) and regular trains (every 30min; 1hr 20min) from Kyoto.

From Osaka Trains on the private Kintetsu–Nara line (from Osaka’s Kintetsu-Namba Station) arrive at Kintetsu-Nara Station (every 15min; 30–40min). Alternatively, take a JR train from Osaka Station (every 20min; 40min) or JR Namba Station (every 20min; 30–40min) to JR Nara Station.

From Kansai International Airport You can go into central Osaka to pick up a train or hop on a limousine bus (hourly; 1hr 35min), which stops at both of Nara’s train stations.

BY BUS

Long-distance buses Services from Tokyo (Shinjuku; 1 daily; 8hr), Yokohama (1 daily; 9hr) and Nagoya (5 daily; 2hr) stop outside both the Kintetsu and JR Nara train stations.

GETTING AROUND

By bus You’ll need to use local buses for some of Nara’s more far-flung sights – the main termini for these are outside the JR and Kintetsu-Nara train stations. The standard fare is ¥220 within the city centre, which you usually pay as you get on, though buses going out of central Nara employ a ticket system – take a numbered ticket as you board and pay the appropriate fare on exit. The one-day Nara Bus Pass (¥500) covers buses in central Nara as well as Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji. For Hōryū-ji and other sites, use the Nara Bus Wide Pass (1 day ¥1000, 2 day ¥1500). The Kintetsu Rail Pass also covers local buses. All passes are available from the stations.

By car Rental outlets include Eki Rent-a-Car ( 0742 26 3929), next door to JR Nara Station. Toyota ( 0742 22 0100) and Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 0742 24 5701) have branches near Kintetsu-Nara Station.

By bike Nara Rent-a-Cycle (daily: March–Nov 8.30am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–3pm; from ¥500/day; 0742 24 8111) is near exit 7 of the Kintetsu-Nara Station. It’s possible to return your bicycle afterhours, or the following morning.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information Nara is well provided with information offices, most impressive of which is the modern Nara Visitor Center & Inn (daily 9am–9pm; 0742 81 7461, sarusawa.nara.jp), located to the south of Sarusawa-ike, with excellent facilities including temporary free baggage storage. On Sanjō-dōri the Nara City Tourist Centre (daily 9am–6pm; 0742 22 3900, narashikanko.or.jp/en) has good information on special events and exhibitions. There’s also a large office next to the JR Station (daily 9am–9pm; 0742 27 2223), and one in Kintetsu Station (daily 9am–9pm; 0742 24 4858). All have English-speaking staff.

Listings magazines The free bilingual newspaper called nara nara ( naranara.jp) has features on local dining, shopping and sightseeing. It can be picked up at one of the tourist offices. The free monthly Kansai Scene also carries the latest information about what’s on in Nara.

Tours There are a number of bus tours which take in some of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in and around Nara ( www.narakotsu.co.jp/teikan), but the best way is to walk and take public transport when needed. Alternatively, Nara Walk ( narawalk.com) offer a variety of guided walks starting at ¥2000, or there is the similarly priced Nara-machi Walking Tour (April–July & Sept–Nov Sat 10am–1pm; ¥2000; www.eonet.ne.jp/~naramachiwalk), which departs from Kintetsu Nara Station. Reservations are not required.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Edosan 江戸三 1167 Takabatake-chō 0742 26 2662, edosan.jp. Located within Nara-kōen, this ryokan is the most exquisite place to spend the night in any season. All guests stay in their own private rustic cottage, from where deer can be seen wandering past as you dine on artistically presented top-class kaiseki. Despite Edosan’s exclusivity, the service is warm and down-to-earth. The bathhouse is separate and can be used individually. ¥48,400

Guesthouse Nara Backpackers 奈良バックパッカーズ 31 Yurugi-chō 0742 22 4557, nara-backpackers.com. In a 100-year-old mansion – which, admittedly, has seen better days – just 10min from Kintetsu-Nara Station, this budget guesthouse makes a convenient place to stay. Retaining all the features of a traditional Japanese home, it has shared bathing and kitchen facilities, plus a communal lounge overlooking the large internal garden. Private rooms are very comfortable, but the dorms with bunk beds are lacklustre, and have only broken lockers for your bags. Dorms ¥2400, doubles ¥5800

Guesthouse Nara Komachi ゲストハウス奈良小町 41-2 Surugamachi 0742 87 0556. Conveniently located close to the JR station, this clean, modern guesthouse is a good deal. The dorms have bunk beds and there are also Japanese- and Western-style small private rooms, all with attached toilet and shower. Dorms ¥2600, doubles ¥7680

Guesthouse Sakuraya ゲストハウス桜舎 1 Narukawa-chō 0742 24 1490, guesthouse-sakuraya.com. This stylish guesthouse in Nara-machi, has been tastefully restored with three clean and comfortable tatami rooms and a lovely garden. The multilingual owner is very helpful and hospitable, and there are free tea- and coffee-making facilities. Breakfast included. ¥10,400

Guesthouse Tsunoya ゲストハウスつのや 5 Higashitera Bayashi-chō 0742 27 0055, naratsunoya.com. Tsunoya is at the southern end of Nara-machi in a smart, modern building. The shared dormitory is capsule-style, with futons on bunks separated by shoji screens. Staff are helpful and there’s an in-house café. Dorms ¥3300, doubles ¥8800

Kasuga Hotel 春日ホテル 40 Noborioji-chō 0742 22 4031, kasuga-hotel.co.jp. A short walk from Kintetsu-Nara Station, this luxurious ryokan-like hotel has both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, some of which have their own private outdoor baths. Locally sourced kaiseki cuisine is served in the evening (extra fee). The staff speak a little English and service is polite and efficient. ¥34,100

Nara Hotel 奈良ホテル 1096 Takabatake-chō 0742 24 3011, narahotel.co.jp. Oozing with nostalgia, the Nara Hotel is one of Japan’s most historic hotels. Its staff will gladly point out its unusual architectural features and tell stories of its famous guests, including Albert Einstein, Audrey Hepburn and the Dalai Lama. The rooms in the newer wing are smart and comfortable, but the Meiji-era ambience of the original rooms with their high ceilings and period furniture is recommended. The hotel is set in its own gardens on the edge of Nara-kōen and has two restaurants serving French and Japanese cuisine, a bar and a tea lounge. Breakfast ¥3500 per person. ¥24,000

Hotel New Wakasa ホテルニューわかさ 1 Kitahanda Higashi-machi 0742 23 5858, n-wakasa.com. Conveniently located near Nara-kōen, this pleasant hotel has fantastic views from the rooftop terrace. Most of the tastefully decorated and fairly spacious rooms are Japanese-style. The hotel has a variety of hot spring baths, some of which can be used privately (¥2200/50min). Breakfast around ¥1800 per person. ¥15,300

Ugaya Guest House 奈良ウガヤゲストハウス 4-1 Okukomori-chō 0742 95 7739, ugaya.net. Formerly a pharmacy, this friendly guesthouse, located between the JR and Kintetsu stations, is a good place to make new friends and enjoy Nara’s nightlife. It has women-only and mixed dorms with bunk beds, as well as private rooms – all with shared shower facilities. There’s also an in-house library and an organic coffee shop. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥6000

EATING MAP

Like Kyoto, Nara has its own brand of kaiseki, but local specialities also include some rather bland dishes. Cha-ga-yu may have evolved from the breakfast of poor people into a fairly expensive delicacy, but there’s no escaping the fact that it’s basically a thin rice gruel with soy beans, sweet potatoes and green tea leaves. It’s best as part of a set meal, when the accompaniments add a bit of flavour. Tororo is pretty similar: grated yam mixed with soy sauce, seaweed and barley, then poured over a bowl of rice – full of protein and rather sticky. Less of an acquired taste is kakinoha-zushi, sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves, and Nara-zuke, vegetables pickled in sake. If you visit on the last Sunday of the month (9am–2pm; itsufushi.com), treat yourself to lunch on-the-go from the Nara Foodshed farmers' market, right by the JR station's east exit.

RESTAURANTS

Edosan 江戸三 1167 Takabatake-chō 0742 26 2662, edosan.jp. Even if you can’t stay at this ryokan, located within Nara-kōen, having a meal here is just as memorable. Edosan serves wonderful kaiseki meals, with the Mahoroba kaiseki lunch (¥5775) a good example of their seasonal creations. Full courses are priced from ¥8800. Reservations required. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–9pm.

Gohan no Aida ごはんの間 26 Hanashiba-chō 0742 24 1539, aidatsusin.exblog.jp. This popular restaurant is only open for lunch and serves mostly vegetarian dishes. Their speciality is tempura, and all set lunches (starting under ¥1000) come with rice and miso soup. No English menu, but the staff will do their best to explain the dishes of the day. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–4pm.

Hirasō 平宗 30-1 Imanikadō-chō 0742 22 0866, kakinoha.co.jp/naramise. Hirasō specializes in kakinoha-zushi, though you’ll also find all sorts of other tasty local delicacies on the menu. Sushi sets start at ¥1500, with multicourse meals including kakinoha-zushi and cha-ga-yu from around ¥3785. Tues–Sun 11am–8pm.

Hiyori ひより 26 Nakanoshinya-chō 0742 24 1470, naramachi-hiyori.jp. Yamato-yasai, the vegetable cuisine of Nara, is the speciality here, but it’s not strictly vegetarian – there are also meat and fish dishes. Delicious, light yasai-biyori lunch sets are ¥1760, and Hiyori’s kaiseki dinner course, with seven vegetable dishes and one main dish, is just ¥3960. Last orders 2pm and 9pm. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10pm.

Kinatei 喜菜亭 25-1 Surugamachi 0742 20 6188, kinatei.com. This restaurant serves Japanese-style vegetarian lunch sets udon and ramen (all from ¥1320) using fresh local ingredients. It’s easy to miss – head south from the JR Station, and turn left at Toyota Rent-a-Car – it’s 100m on the left. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm; closed irregularly.

Mellow Café メローカフェ Axe Unit, 1-8 Konishi-chō 0742 27 9099, mellowcafe.jp. This spacious Italian café-restaurant, specializing in oven-fired pizza, is up an atmospheric lane off the Konishi Sakuradōri shopping street. The most adventurous topping on the menu is the Narazuke (pickles) and sake lees (¥1080) though classics like Quattro Formaggi (¥1390, served with honey to drizzle on top) and deliciously al dente pasta dishes are also available. The daily Mellow lunch plate is ¥1430, and they also have several excellent cocktails for just ¥650. Daily 11am–11.30pm.

Mizuho 瑞穂 12 Michiidono-chō 0742 93 5071, tempura-bowl-restaurants-12.business.site. Superb small restaurant in the pedestrianized arcades of Nara-machi, serving delicious and very well-priced tendon (rice topped with tempura) from ¥780, plus noodle dishes, fried sweet potato ice cream (¥680) and a good range of sake. Staff are friendly and helpful, and the generous set meals are a steal. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 10.30am–9pm.

Sakura Burger さくらバーガー 6 Higashimuki Kita-chō 0742 31 3813, sakuraburger.com. One of the few places in Nara to get a healthy burger made with fresh ingredients. The patty is made from top-quality local beef, and comes with home-made bacon and French fries. The Sakura Burger (¥1078) makes a very hearty lunch. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 11am–4pm & 5–9pm.

Yamato-an やまと庵 495-1 Sanjō-machi 0742 26 3585. Nara-produced beef, chicken and pork are the main ingredients in the scrumptious dishes served here. The Yamato chicken tempura and the simmered Yamato pork are very popular. Vegetarians are also catered for – the tofu dishes are excellent (from ¥700). Daily 11.30am–3pm & 5pm–midnight.

Yamazakiya 山崎屋 5 Higashimuki-chō 0742 27 3715, ajiyama.com. Located at the back of the pickle shop of the same name, this traditional restaurant has a good range of set meals. The Hana-Gozen chirashi-zushi set is under ¥1000, the Tempura-Gozen set with Nara pickles is ¥2100, and kaiseki courses start at ¥4000. The staff are welcoming but don’t speak English. It’s easiest to check the window display first and then order from the English menu. Last orders 8pm. Tues–Sun 11am–9pm.

NARA FESTIVALS AND ANNUAL EVENTS

Several of Nara’s festivals have been celebrated for well over a thousand years. Many of these are dignified court dances, though the fire rituals are more lively affairs. In spring and autumn the Nara Kasugano International Forum ( 0742 27 2630, i-ra-ka.jp/en) in Nara-kōen stages a series of nō dramas, while the biggest cultural event of the year is undoubtedly the autumn exhibition of Shōsō-in’s treasures.

January: Yama-yaki 若草山焼き On the fourth Saturday evening of January at 6pm, priests from Kōfuku-ji set fire to the grass on Wakakusa-yama – supervised by a few hundred firemen. The festival commemorates the settlement of a boundary dispute between Nara’s warrior monks.

February 3: Mantōrō Lantern Festival 万燈籠 To mark setsubun, the beginning of spring, three thousand stone and bronze lanterns are lit at Kasuga Taisha (from 6pm).

March 1–14: O-Taimatsu and O-Mizutori お松明 and お水取り A 1200-year-old ceremony that commemorates a priest’s dream about the goddess Kannon drawing water from a holy well. The climax is on the night of March 13 when, at around 6.30pm, priests on the second-floor veranda of Nigatsu-dō light huge torches and scatter sparks over the assembled crowds to protect them from evil spirits. At 2am the priests collect water from the well, after which they whirl more lit flares round in a frenzied dance.

Mid-May: Takigi Nō 薪御能 Outdoor performances of nō dramas by firelight at Kōfuku-ji and Kasuga Taisha: check at any of Nara’s tourist offices or narashikanko.or.jp/en/event for exact dates.

August 14–15: Chūgen Mantōrō 中元万燈籠 To celebrate Obon, the festival of souls, Kasuga Taisha’s lanterns are all lit, to spectacular effect.

September: Uneme Matsuri 采女祭 On the night of the harvest moon, this festival takes place at Sarusawa-ike as a dedication to Uneme, a court lady who drowned herself in the pond after losing the favour of the emperor. At around 7pm two dragon-bowed boats bearing costumed participants and gagaku musicians commemorate the lady’s death in multicoloured splendour. The festival lasts until 9.30pm.

Early to mid-October: Shika-no-Tsunokiri 鹿の角きり Every autumn, the deer of Nara-kōen are wrestled to the ground in the Roku-en deer pen, near Kasuga Taisha, and have their antlers sawn off by Shintō priests. As the deer can roam freely in the park, this practice was established over 300 years ago to minimize harm to people and monuments. Ask at a tourist office or check naradeer.com/event/tsunokiri.html for exact dates.

Late October–early November: Shōsō-in Treasures 正倉院 At the National Museum.

December 15–18: On-matsuri おん祭 At around midday a grand costume parade sets off from the prefectural offices to Kasuga Wakamiya-jinja, stopping on the way for various ceremonies. It ends with outdoor performances of nō and courtly dances.

CAFÉS

Ban INOUE 幡 INOUE 16 Kasugano-chō 0742 27 1010, bit.ly/baninoue. Locally grown vegetables, as well as soy sauce and miso produced in Nara, are part of the macrobiotic-style meals served in this cheerful café and craft shop in the Yume-Kaze Plaza shopping complex. The Healthy Lunch Set (¥1200) includes three seasonal vegetable dishes, soup and rice. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11.30am–5.30pm.

Gluten Free is the New Black 11-43 Shibatsuji-chō 080 6189 7925, glutenfreeisthenewblack.info. Tiny, trendy café which makes a great spot for breakfast or lunch (take away available). The avocado toast with salad (¥770) is fresh, filling and delicious, while the lamingtons (¥495) make an indulgent snack. As the name implies, everything is gluten free, and many items are also vegan. They also have a stall at the monthly Nara Foodshed market. Tues & Wed 10am–5pm, Fri–Sun 10am–6pm.

DRINKING MAP

Bar Hana バー華 1 Hashimoto-chō 0742 22 3777. Small shot bar with a good range of local whiskies (starting under ¥1000), as well as draught beer and wine by the glass (from ¥700). There’s an evening cover charge of ¥300 per person, but during happy hour (4–7pm) you can order two drinks for around ¥1000. Mon–Wed & Fri 6pm–2am, Sat & Sun 1pm–2am.

Harushika Sake Brewery 春鹿酸造元 24-1 Fukuchi-in-chō 0742 2 2255, harushika.com. Producing high-quality sake since 1884, this brewery is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try nihonshū (sake) produced in Nara. The front of the traditional premises has been remodelled into a comfortable tasting area where, for the very reasonable price of ¥500, you can sample five different kinds of sake and take the cup home. There's also a lovely café on site, and occasional musical performances. Daily 9am–5pm.

Public House Ritz パブリックハウスリッツ 1-1 Hashimoto-chō 0742 31 6144, ritzpub.storeinfo.jp. This bar is also Nara’s only Tex-Mex restaurant, so you can enjoy tequila shots (¥500) or Corona beer (¥600) with nachos (¥580) or quesadilla (¥580). Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30pm–midnight.

The Stand ザ・スタンド 14 Higashimuki Minami-machi 0742 22 1221, bit.ly/thestandnara. Located on the busy Higashimuki shopping street north of Sanjō-dōri, this friendly standing bar serves large draught beers for ¥800, as well as shōchū (¥400), sake (¥400–600) and wine by the glass (¥600). The snack food menu changes daily, but small dishes start around ¥300. Daily 3pm–midnight.

SHOPPING MAP

Kite Mite Nara Shop きてみてならショップ 38-1 Noborioji-chō 0742 26 8828, nara-shop.jp. Conveniently located just 2min east of Kintetsu-Nara Station, this shop sells a wide variety of tasteful Nara crafts, arts and food, and is a good place for last-minute souvenir shopping. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.

Kobaien Calligraphy Goods 古梅園 433-1 Zoshi-chō 0742 22 6337, kajisyouten.com. Nara is renowned for its high-quality sumi-e ink, calligraphy brushes (fude), tea whisks (chasen) and bleached hemp cloth (sarashi). At the foot of Wakakusa-yama, this traditional shop stocks the full range of top-quality calligraphy goods, plus various tea ceremony utensils. Calligraphy sets start from ¥5000. Daily April–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–March 9am–4.30pm.

Shikaya 鹿屋 23 Kasugano-chō 0742 22 3181, sikaya.co.jp. Catering to pop culture tastes, this eclectic souvenir shop near the path that leads to Tōdai-ji stocks a large collection of cute character goods, such as Sento-kun, as well as a range of ninja costumes and weapons, samurai swords and armour. They also sell kimono and the friendly staff will help you get kitted out. Daily 10am–5pm; closed irregularly.

Around Nara

Even before Nara was founded, the surrounding plains were sprinkled with burial mounds, palaces and temples. A few of these still survive, of which the most remarkable is the historic temple of Hōryū-ji, around 10km southwest of Nara, home to some impressive artworks and the world’s oldest wooden building. Closer to Nara, the two temples of Nishinokyō district, Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji, contain yet more early masterpieces of Japanese art and architecture. These three temples are best visited together using local buses; the route described below starts at Hōryū-ji and then works back towards Nara. Also worth a visit nearby is the reconstructed palace of Heijō Kyūseki – the site of Japan’s first real city.

Further south are two more enjoyable day-trip destinations. Burial mounds dot the landscape around the peaceful village of Asuka, where Japan’s first Buddhist temple sits quietly next to rice fields. Nearby, Yoshino-yama attracts massive crowds of sightseers in spring when thousands of cherry blossoms bloom, and is also home to several magnificent temples and shrines.

Nara Palace Site Historical Park

平城宮跡歴史公園, Heijō Kyūseki Rekishi-kōen • Varies by building, but generally Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm; Guidance Centre daily 10am–6pm (to 6.30pm June–Sept; closed second Mon in Feb, April, July & Nov) • Free • 0742 36 8780, heijo-park.go.jp/en • 20min walk from the south exit of Kintetsu Yamato Saidaiji Station, one stop west of Nara on the Kintestu line (every 5–10min; 5min)

The site of Japan’s first real city, Heijō-kyō, can be found at the Nara Palace Site Historical Park (Heijō Kyūseki), 2km northwest of Nara Station. The city was established by Empress Genmei, who moved the capital from Asuka in 710, the third year of her reign. During the Nara Period (710–84) the site contained the emperor’s palace, and at its height the city walls enclosed some 25 square kilometres, with a population thought to have numbered well over 100,000. In 784, when the capital moved to Heian-kyō – present-day Kyoto – the palace complex at Nara quickly fell into disrepair and the whole site was eventually swallowed up by rice paddies. Despite this, knowledge of its location and significance was not lost, and archeological work has been ongoing since 1959.

As part of the 1300th anniversary of the founding of Nara City in 2010, the government embarked on a large-scale reconstruction of key parts of the site, based on evidence from archeological digs and the few surviving buildings from the period. Restoration is ongoing, with the Minami-mon (South Gate) under construction at the time of research. The on-site museums shed some light on the process, with artefacts discovered during archeological digs shown in the Ikōtenji-kan (遺構展示館), and exhibits and photographs in the Nara Palace Site Museum (平城宮跡資料館, Heijō Kyūseki Shiryōkan). There are detailed explanations in English of historical events and construction techniques, as well as some excellent illustrations of life in the Nara period.

Daiichi-ji Daigoku-den

第一次大極殿

The imposing Daiichi-ji Daigoku-den functioned as the main political centre of the palace for greeting dignitaries and ceremonial purposes. It was replaced by another audience hall later in the Nara period, the foundations of which can be found 100m to the east, in the restored East Palace Garden (東院庭園, Tōin-teien). Inside the hall you can see a replica of the Takamikura, the emperor’s throne, which was used for state events and ceremonies.

Suzaku-mon Hiroba Square

朱雀門ひろば

The Suzaku-mon Hiroba Square, located near the imposing two-storey Suzaku-mon gate, contains the main tourist facilities for the site. You can rent bicycles to explore more easily, visit the Guidance Centre (平城宮いざない館, Heijō-kyū Izanai-kan) to see a model of city 1300 years ago and try out a virtual reality theatre, and of course stop by the obligatory café and gift shop.

Hōryū-ji

法隆寺 • Daily: mid-Feb to early Nov 8am–5pm; early Nov to mid-Feb 8am–4.30pm • ¥1500 • horyuji.or.jp/en

As you walk round UNESCO-listed Hōryū-ji, which was completed in 607 AD, it’s worth bearing in mind that Buddhism had only really got going in Japan some fifty years earlier. The confident scale of Hōryū-ji and its superb array of Buddhist statues amply illustrate how quickly this imported faith took hold. One of its strongest proponents was Prince Shōtoku (574–622), the then-regent, who founded Hōryū-ji in accordance with the dying wish of his father, Emperor Yōmei. Though the complex burned down in 670, it was soon rebuilt, making this Japan’s oldest surviving Buddhist temple.

The main approach to Hōryū-ji is from the south, which takes you past the helpful information centre. Walk north from here along a wide, tree-lined avenue to Nandai-mon (Great South Gate), which marks the outer enclosure. Inside lies a second, walled compound known as the Sai-in Garan, or Western Precinct. Within the Sai-in Garan’s cloister-gallery, the Five-Storey Pagoda will inevitably catch your eye first. This is Japan’s oldest five-tier pagoda, and inside you can see the early eighth-century clay images of Buddha entering Nirvana. However, it’s actually the right-hand building, the Kon-dō, that is Hōryū-ji’s star attraction.

Kon-dō

金堂

The Kon-dō (Golden Hall) is the world’s oldest wooden structure, dating from the late seventh century, and although it’s not very large, the building’s multilayered roofs and sweeping eaves are extremely striking. Entering the east door, you’re greeted by a bronze image of Shaka Nyorai (the Historical Buddha) flanked by two bodhisattvas still bearing a few touches of the original gold leaf with which they were once covered; this Shaka triad was cast in 623 AD in memory of Prince Shōtoku, who died the previous year. To its right stands Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Healing, to which Hōryū-ji was dedicated, and to the left a twelfth-century Amida Buddha commemorating the Prince’s mother.

Daihōzō-in

大宝蔵院

Exiting the Sai-in compound, walk east past two long, narrow halls, to the Daihōzō-in (Hall of Temple Treasures), which houses Hōryū-ji’s priceless collection of more than 2300 national treasures in two halls. Look out for the bronze Yume-chigae Kannon. This “Dream-Changing” Kannon is credited with turning bad dreams into good, and has a soft, secretive smile.

Kudara Kannon-dō

百済観音堂

Connecting the two museum halls is the Kudara Kannon-dō, which houses the wooden Kudara Kannon (Kudara Goddess of Mercy) statue, thought to date from the seventh century. Not much is known about this unusually tall, willowy figure, but it has long been recognized as one of the finest Buddhist works of art in Japan. Kudara refers to an ancient province in Korea, and subsequently there has been some debate as to whether the statue came from there.

Chūgū-ji

中宮寺 • Daily: mid-March to Sept 9am–4.30pm; Oct to mid-March 9am–4pm • ¥600 • 0745 75 2106, chuguji.jp

A gate in the northeast corner of the Tō-in Garan leads directly into Chūgū-ji. This intimate, peaceful nunnery was originally the residence of Prince Shōtoku’s mother, which he converted into a temple on her death in 621. The main reason for coming here, however, sits inside a modern hall facing south over a pond. If you’ve already visited Kyoto’s Kōryū-ji, you’ll recognize the central image of a pensive, boy-like Miroku Bosatsu (Future Buddha) absorbed in his task of trying to save mankind from suffering. Here, the statue is of camphor wood, burnished black with age, and it's thought to have been carved by a Korean craftsman in the early seventh century.

Chūgū-ji marks the eastern extent of the Hōryū-ji complex. If you exit from here it’s a ten-minute walk south down to the main road and the Chūgū-ji-mae bus stop, one stop east of the Hōryū-ji-mae stop.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HŌRYŪ-JI

By bus The simplest way of getting to Hōryū-ji from Nara is by #98 bus (hourly; 50min–1hr; ¥770) from Nara’s JR or Kintetsu stations; get off at the Hōryū-ji-mae stop. Bus #97 makes the return journey. The Nara Bus Wide Pass (¥1000) is the most economical way to visit this area by bus.

By train Osaka-bound trains from JR Nara stop at Hōryū-ji Station (every 10min; 15min; ¥230), from where it’s a 20min walk to the temple on a fairly busy road, or 10min on a #72 bus (Mon–Fri 2–3 hourly, Sat & Sun every 10min; ¥200).

Tourist information The Information Centre (daily 8.30am–6pm 0745 74 6800, www4.kcn.ne.jp/~ikaru-i) is across the road from the Hōryū-ji-mae bus stop.

Yakushi-ji

薬師寺 • Nishinokyō, 6km northwest of Hōryū-ji • Daily 8.30am–5pm: temple complex year-round; Genjō-sanzōin Garan March–June & mid-Sept to mid-Jan • March–June & mid-Sept to mid-Jan ¥1100; mid-Jan to Feb & July to mid-Sept ¥800; West Pagoda and Jiki-dō ¥500 each • 0742 33 6001, nara-yakushiji.com

Emperor Tenmu first ordered the construction of Yakushi-ji sometime around 680 AD when his wife was seriously ill. Although she recovered, Tenmu himself died eight years later, leaving the empress to dedicate Yakushi-ji in 697. Over the centuries, fires have destroyed all but one of the original buildings, the East Pagoda, though Yakushi-ji’s amazing collection of statues has fared better.

THE HIDDEN BUDDHA OF HŌRYŪ-JI

Tō-in Garan is the eastern precinct of Hōryū-ji, which was added in 739. At its centrepiece is the octagonal Yume-dono (Hall of Dreams), with its magnificent statue, the Kuze Kannon. Until the late nineteenth century, this gilded wooden figure, said to be the same height as Prince Shōtoku (perhaps even modelled on him in the early seventh century), was a hibutsu, a hidden image, which no one had seen for centuries. Somewhat surprisingly, it was an American art historian, Ernest Fenellosa, who in the 1880s was given permission by the Meiji government, against the wishes of the temple, to unwrap the Kannon from the bundle of white cloth in which it had been kept. He revealed a dazzling statue in an almost perfect state of repair, carrying a sacred jewel and wearing an elaborate crown, with the famous enigmatic smile of the Kon-dō’s Shaka Nyorai on its youthful lips. The Kannon is still kept hidden for most of the year, except for brief spells in spring and autumn (usually April 11–May 15 & Oct 22–Nov 22).

Even without the fires, the East Pagoda was in bad condition by the twenty-first century; a major restoration took place from 2011, taking the better part of a decade to complete.

The inner compound

The only building of historical note in Yakushi-ji’s inner compound is the three-storey East Pagoda, which was famously described as “frozen music” by Ernest Fenellosa. He was referring to the rhythmical progression of the smaller double roofs that punctuate the pagoda’s upward flow. It’s the sole surviving remnant of the original temple and contrasts strongly with the spanking red lacquer of the new West Pagoda, the Daikō-dō (Great Lecture Hall), the Kon-dō (Golden Hall) and the Jiki-dō (Dining Hall), all of which have been rebuilt during the last thirty years. Inside the Kon-dō, the temple’s original seventh-century bronze Yakushi triad sits unperturbed; past fires have removed most of the gold and given the statues a rich black sheen, but otherwise they are in remarkably fine condition.

The outer compound

Continuing through the outer compound, you come to a long, low wooden hall on your left, the Tōin-dō. Rebuilt around 1285, the hall houses a bronze image of Shō-Kannon, an incarnation of the goddess of mercy, which dates from the early Nara period. This graceful statue, framed against a golden aureole, shows distinctly Indian influences in its diaphanous robes, double necklace and the strands of hair falling over its shoulders. A short way north of the main complex is the Genjō-sanzōin Garan, built in the 1990s to the memory of itinerant seventh-century Chinese monk Genjō-sanzō. While this part of the site has little of historical interest, it does contain an unusual octagonal hall where the monk's remains are enshrined, as well as some of the beautiful, meditative works of painter Hirayama Ikuo.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YAKUSHI-JI

By train Kintetsu-line trains run from Nara to Nishinokyō Station (every 10min; 25min; ¥270) with a change at Yamato-Saidai-ji; Yakushi-ji’s north gate is a 3min walk east of the station.

By bus Buses #72, #78 and #98 run from Nara (3 hourly; 35min; ¥270) – get off at the Yakushi-ji Chūsha-jō stop, from where it’s a short walk to the temple’s south gate, or at Yakushi-ji stop, to the north. Buses #72 and #77 make the return trip from Nishinokyō-eki bus stop, by the train station, and #97 goes from Yakushi-ji Chūsha-jō. The Nara Bus Pass (¥500) is the most economical way to visit this area by bus.

On foot From Yakushi-ji, after exiting the north gate, go straight ahead for 5min and you’ll find the front entrance to Tōshōdai-ji.

Tōshōdai-ji

唐招提寺 • Nishinokyō • Temple complex Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥600 • Shin-Hōzō March–May & Sept–Nov daily 8.30am–4pm • ¥200 • 0742 33 7900, toshodaiji.jp

The weathered, wooden halls of Tōshōdai-ji in their pleasant shady compound are superb examples of late eighth-century architecture. The temple was founded in 759 by the eminent Chinese monk Ganjin when he was granted permission to move from the city to somewhere more peaceful.

The first thing you’ll see on entering the south gate is the stately Chinese-style Kon-dō (Main Hall), which has been masterfully restored in recent years. Craftsmen who accompanied Ganjin from China are responsible for the three superb dry-lacquer statues displayed here. The Kō-dō (Lecture Hall) behind the Kon-dō also dates from the late eighth century, and is more Japanese in styling. During the Nara period, this hall was a major centre of learning and religious training.

Just once a year – on June 6, the anniversary of Ganjin’s death – the doors of the Miei-dō (Founder’s Hall), in the northern section of the compound, are opened to reveal a lacquered image which was carved just before Ganjin died in 763 at the grand age of 76. He’s buried next door, in the far northeast corner of the compound, in a simple grave within a clay-walled enclosure.

Shin-Hōzō

新宝蔵

On the compound’s east side is the modern-looking concrete Shin-Hōzō, where, each spring and autumn, Tōshōdai-ji’s stunning collection of treasures goes on display. These are mostly statues, of which the most celebrated is a headless wooden Buddha known as the “Venus of the Orient” – the voluptuousness of the statue contrasts with the more sculptural styles of the surrounding artworks. The exhibits are mostly labelled in English, and staff can also provide an English explanation book.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TŌSHŌDAI-JI

By train Kintetsu-line trains run from Nara to Nishinokyō Station (every 10min; 25min; ¥270) with a change at Yamato-Saidai-ji; the main gate is a 1km walk northeast of the station.

By bus Buses #72, #78 and #98 from Nara (3 hourly; 20min; ¥270) drop you either at Tōshōdai-ji bus stop or Tōshōdaiji Higashi-guchi, on the main road a 5min walk west of the temple’s main gate. Buses #72, #77 and #97 make the return trip from this stop. The Nara Bus Pass (¥500) is the most economical way to visit this area by bus.

On foot From Tōshōdai-ji’s main gate it’s a short walk south to Yakushi-ji.

Asuka

飛鳥

Located at the southern end of the Yamato plain, an hour south of Nara city by train, ASUKA is where the political and cultural foundations of the Japanese nation began, more than 1400 years ago. With its picturesque combination of traditional farmhouses, temples, rice terraces and verdant, low-lying hills, Asuka appears to be nothing more than a quaint farming village. However, it is actually a major archeological site, dotted with kofun (tumuli) burial mounds that were probably constructed around the seventh century for burying the early emperors and empresses of Japan. Asuka is also the place where Buddhism first took root in Japan, and where many of the poems that make up the ancient anthology known as the Man'yōshu were composed. The main sights of Asuka are all less than 4km from the station and can be explored in a day-trip from Nara.

Takamatsuzuka Kofun

高松塚古墳 • 439 Hirata Asuka-mura, 1.2km from Asuka Station • Daily 9am–5pm • Museum ¥300 • 0774 54 3340, www.asuka-park.go.jp/en/area/takamatsuzuka

You can’t see inside the grassy mound that is the Takamatsuzuka Kofun, but the small museum next to it reveals all. Beautiful murals of dragons, tigers and turtle-snakes were discovered when the mound was first excavated in 1972, and removed for restoration in 2007. Photographic reproductions showing the delicate process, as well as a full-sized replica of the internal crypt, are on display here.

Ishibutai Kofun

石舞台古墳 • Asuka-mura, 3.3km from Asuka Station • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥300 • 0774 54 4577, asukadeasobo.jp/kankou/ishibutai

For centuries, Ishibutai Kofun was buried under vegetable fields, until its excavation in the 1930s. The kofun sits in an open park area and was constructed from massive boulders and slabs of stone to form a rectangular stone chamber. It’s possible to enter the interior, which gives you a close-up view of the skilful ancient stonework.

Asuka-dera

飛鳥寺 • Asuka-mura, 3.5km from Asuka Station • Daily: April–Sept 9am–5pm; Oct–March 9am–5pm • ¥350 • 0774 54 2126

Founded in 596, Asuka-dera is said to have been the first full-scale Buddhist temple in Japan. The current complex is much smaller than it was in its heyday but houses a rare treasure – the oldest known Buddhist statue in Japan, dating from the early seventh century. The 3m-high Asuka Daibutsu was crafted in a Chinese style from bronze, and is flanked by two exquisite fourteenth-century wooden sculptures.

Nara Prefecture Complex of Man'yō Culture

奈良県立万葉文化館, Nara Kenritsu Man'yō Bunka-kan • Asuka-mura, 3.7km from Asuka Station • Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm • ¥600 • 0774 54 1850, manyo.jp

The excellent Nara Prefecture Complex of Man'yō Culture brings to life the history and culture of the Man'yōshu – Japan’s earliest collection of poetry. Many of the displays are interactive, re-creating daily life in the early centuries, and there’s a cinema too. Be sure not to miss the Sayakeshi Room, where you can relax to the natural sounds of Asuka with a soothing ceiling light display.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ASUKA

By train To get to Asuka Station, take a train from Kintetsu Yamato Saidai-ji Station (one stop west of Nara on the Kintetsu line), and change at Kashihara-jingūmae Station for the Yoshino line (1hr from Nara; ¥590).

Tourist information There’s a small tourist information desk (daily 8.30am–5pm; 0774 54 3240) in the Asuka Bito-no-kan, on the left as you exit Asuka Station. Information in English is scant, but you can pick up a bilingual map of the area. English-language audio guides can also be rented here (9am–5pm; ¥500). The websites asukabito.or.jp/english.html and www.asuka-park.go.jp/en can also be useful.

GETTING AROUND

By bike There are a few bicycle rental shops in front of Asuka Station. Asuka Rent-a-Cycle (daily 9am–5pm; 0774 54 3919, k-asuka.com) has one-day bike rentals (Mon–Fri ¥900, Sat, Sun & public hols ¥1000; online discounts available).

By bus The Kame Loop Bus (¥180 per ride; 1-day pass ¥650) runs through Asuka village hourly, stopping at the major sights. It departs from in front of Asuka Station and terminates at the east exit of Kintetsu Kashihara-jingūmae.

EATING

Coccolo Cafe コッコロカフェ 137-1 Goen 0744 54 3039, cafeanjou4.wixsite.com/coccolo. Friendly café opposite the station with comfortable table or sofa seating. It’s a great place to stop for breakfast (¥630), a healthy veggie lunch set (¥1130) or just cake and coffee (around ¥600). Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 8am–5.30pm.

Yume-ichi-chaya 夢市茶屋 154-3 Shimasho 0744 54 9450. At the edge of the Ishibutai Kofun park, this spacious restaurant serves delicious lunch sets (¥1100) made with local vegetables, tofu and heirloom rice, and black rice curry (¥875). Order at the counter from the photo menu. Downstairs is a small shop selling fresh local produce and souvenirs. Mon–Fri 11am–4pm; Sat & Sun 11am–5pm.

Yoshino

吉野

YOSHINO is the most famous place in Japan to see cherry blossoms. More than 100,000 trees bloom on the sacred mountain of Yoshino-yama, usually from early April – attracting enormous crowds and traffic jams for a month. The small town at the top of Yoshino-yama, accessed via ropeway, is essentially one long street and is easily explored on foot. Home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it is also the headquarters of the Shugendō Buddhist sect of mountain aestheticism, and is renowned for its kuzu (arrowroot) sweets, making a visit at any time of the year worthwhile.

Kimpusen-ji

金峯山寺 • 2498 Yoshino-yama • Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • Main hall ¥500 • 0746 32 8371, kinpusen.or.jp

Kimpusen-ji was established in the late seventh century by the En no Gyōja, a mountain ascetic monk and founder of Shugendō Buddhism. The impressive Zaodo main hall has burnt down five times, and the current structure dates from 1592. Inside are three important sixteenth-century wooden statues of Buddhist deities – Shakamuni, Kannon and Mitreya Bodhisattva – usually hidden behind curtains, and only displayed twice a year, in spring and autumn. The morning worship service, accompanied by horagai (large conch shells used as trumpets) and taiko drums, is held here daily at 6.30am. The temple also holds events where you can experience the tough mental and physical training the monks undergo (at various times May–Oct; check website for details).

Yoshimizu-jinja

吉水神社 • 579 Yoshino-yama • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400 • 0746 32 3024, yoshimizu-shrine.com

The Shintō shrine Yoshimizu-jinja was founded in the seventh century as a Buddhist temple, and converted in the mid-nineteenth century. During its lifetime it has sheltered various historical figures fleeing from strife, including Emperor Go-Daigo, and it also hosted Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s cherry blossom viewing party for 5000 guests in 1594.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION YOSHINO

By train and ropeway The easiest way to get to Yoshino is on the Kintetsu line. From Yamato-Saidai-ji Station (one stop west of Nara on the Kintetsu line), take a train to Kashihara-jingūmae Station and change there for the Yoshino line (1hr 30min; ¥860). Once you have arrived at Kintetsu Yoshino Station, it’s a 10min walk to Senbonguchi Station, from where you take the ropeway to Yoshino-yama Station at the top of the mountain (daily 9.20am–5.40pm; ¥450 one-way, ¥800 return).

Tourist information The Yoshinoyama Visitor Information Centre (daily 9am–5pm in spring and summer only; 0746 32 1007, www.yoshinoyama-sakura.jp/english) is located next to Kimpusen-ji. yoshino-kankou.jp has some useful information.

EATING

Nakai Shunpudo 中井春風堂 545 Yoshino-yama 0746 32 3043, nakasyun.com. Friendly café devoted to serving fresh and delicious kuzu, or arrowroot – a traditional gelatinous sweet. You can watch the chef make your noodles or mochi (around ¥850), which can then be dipped in a choice of two flavours – kinako (crushed soybean powder) or kuromitsu (black sugar syrup). Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun (daily April & Nov) 10am–5pm: closed 2nd & 4th Thurs each month & weekdays in winter.

Tofu Chaya Hayashi 豆腐茶屋林 551 Yoshino-yama 0746 32 5681, yoshinoyama-tofu.jp. The tofu here is made from the spring water of Yoshino-yama and has a rich flavour. The tofu set meal (¥1430) and tofu ramen (¥880) are both excellent. If you have any room for dessert, try their soy-milk soft serve ice cream (¥330). Mon & Thurs–Sun (daily April & Nov) 9am–4pm.

THE TEAHOUSES OF KYOTO

The world of tea tends to have a reputation for rigidity and rules, but fortunately there are now some innovative and modern ways in which to enjoy this quintessential Japanese drink. Whether you’re looking for a tea ceremony or are just after a relaxing cuppa, both are easily accessible in these Kyoto teahouses.

CENTRAL KYOTO MAP

Fukujuen 福寿園 Shijō Tominokōji 075 221 6174, fukujuen-kyotohonten.com. The flagship store of this tea company has five floors of tea-related activities – from the tea-making workshop in the basement (¥1650) to a 30min tea ceremony experience in the elegant fourth-floor tearoom (¥2750). There are also two tea-inspired restaurants and a ground-floor shop. Daily 11am–6.30pm.

Somushi Kochaya 素夢古茶屋 Sanjō Karasuma Nishi-iri 075 253 1456, somushi.com. Even with its location on bustling Sanjō-dōri, this artfully rustic Korean teahouse is an incredibly calm space to try a variety of medicinal teas, such as ginseng and jujube (from ¥610). Also serves vegetarian Korean dishes. Last orders 6pm. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–7pm.

EAST KYOTO MAP

Iyemon Salon Atelier 伊右衛門サロンアトリエ 481-1 Yasaka Torii-Mae 075 744 6451, iyemonsalon.jp. This large, bustling teahouse combines sleek modern style with traditional touches, offering simple Kyō-ryōri dishes alongside the tea and Japanese sweets. Matcha latte from ¥920. Last orders 10pm. Daily 8am–11pm.

Kyoto Nama Chocolat Organic Tea House 76-15 Tenno-chō 075 751 2678, kyoto-namachocolat.com. East of the Heian-jingū, this tranquil teahouse is set in an elegant old house with a rambling garden. They serve a variety of teas and coffee (¥600), as well as their own brand of delectable fresh soft chocolate, which is made on the premises (¥600 for 4 pieces). Mon & Wed–Sun noon–6pm.

Mo-An 茂庵 Yoshida-jinja, 8 Yoshida Kaguraoka-chō 075 761 2100, mo-an.com. This beautiful tearoom, in a wooden house nestled among the trees above Yoshida Shrine, is a peaceful escape from the city. The views are incredible, with Kyoto on one side and Daimonji-yama on the other, and the tea and sweets such as seasonal cheesecakes, parfaits and kaki-gōri (shaved ice) are delicious and elegantly presented (matcha and sweets ¥760). Tues–Sun 11.30am–6pm.

Rakushō 洛匠 Kōdaiji Kitamonmae-dōri 075 561 6892, rakusyou.co.jp. In eastern Kyoto, don’t miss this charming old teahouse between Kōdai-ji and Yasaka-jinja. Enjoy a bowl of matcha and warabi mochi (jelly-like cakes rolled in sweet soybean flour) for ¥1100 while gazing out over the pond of enormous carp. Daily 10am–5pm.

< Back to Kyoto and Nara

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OSAKA STREET FOOD STALL

Kansai

Osaka

Takarazuka

Kōya-san

Kumano Kodō

Shima Hantō

Kōbe

Arima Onsen

Himeji

Kinosaki Onsen

Kansai

In a country so devoid of flat land, the great rice-growing plains of Kansai (also known as Kinki), the district around Osaka and Kyoto, are imbued with an almost mystical significance. This was where the nation first began to take root, in the region known as Yamato, and where a distinct Japanese civilization evolved from the strong cultural influences of China and Korea. Kansai people are tremendously proud of their pivotal role in Japanese history and tend to look down on Tokyo as an uncivilized upstart. The former imperial capitals of Kyoto and Nara, with their enduring historical and cultural importance, are naturally a major part of the region’s appeal. Today, Kansai’s diverse legacy of temples, shrines and castles, combined with an increasing array of exciting modern architecture, makes it one of Japan’s top tourist destinations.

Once much maligned as an “ugly” city, Osaka has been spruced up in recent years, thanks to a variety of dynamic urban design and infrastructure projects, and is finally emerging as a popular destination for international visitors. One thing that has not changed is the city’s commercial spirit – the source of its long-established wealth – and its enthusiasm for eating and drinking.

South of Osaka, the temples of Kōya-san provide a tranquil glimpse into contemporary religious practice in Japan. This mountain-top retreat – the headquarters of the Shingon school of Buddhism – has been an active centre of pilgrimage since the ninth century, and people of all faiths are welcome to stay in the quiet old temples and join in their morning prayer services.

Shintō, Japan’s native religion, also has deep spiritual roots in Kansai. Not far from Kōya-san is the Kumano Kodō, an ancient pilgrimage route through the “Land of the Gods”, where for centuries both emperors and peasants sought purification and healing at sacred sites and hot springs. Over on the far eastern side of the region is Ise-jingū, one of the country’s most important Shintō shrines, dedicated to Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, from whom all Japan’s emperors are descended. Ise itself is the gateway to the attractive peninsula of Shima Hantō. Here, ama women divers still use traditional fishing methods to collect seafood. The unspoiled scenery of Ago-wan, the bay at the southern tip of the peninsula, is a rewarding destination for scenic boat rides that give a memorable insight into the cultured pearl industry.

The port of Kōbe is less than thirty minutes west of Osaka, in a dramatic location on the edge of Osaka Bay. Kōbe’s sights are less of a draw than its relaxed cosmopolitan atmosphere, best experienced with a stroll around the harbourside and an evening in one its jazz clubs. Close by is the ancient hot-spring resort of Arima Onsen, which has managed to retain some old-world hospitality in its elegant ryokan, while further to the north, on the Sea of Japan coast, there are more popular hot springs at Kinosaki Onsen.

Wherever you choose to stay in Kansai, don’t miss Himeji, on the area’s western edge. This compact and easily walkable city is home to Japan’s most impressive castle, Himeji-jō, and the lovely Himeji Kōko-en, nine connected gardens laid out according to traditional principles, plus a couple of intriguing museums in buildings designed by top contemporary architects.

GETTING AROUND KANSAI

BY TRAIN

The most convenient way of getting around the Kansai district is by train. The area is crisscrossed by competing JR and private rail lines, and the Tōkaidō Shinkansen provides a high-speed service between Osaka, Kyoto and Kōbe, with the Sanyo Shinkansen continuing on to Himeji.

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HIMEJI-JŌ

Highlights

Osaka nightlife Enjoy the neon-lit buzz of Japan’s third-largest city, sampling some typical Osakan street food, such as takoyaki – grilled octopus dumplings – before hitting the city’s bars and clubs.

Kōya-san Spend an atmospheric night in temple lodgings atop a sacred mountain and participate in the dawn gomataki fire ritual.

Kumano Kodō Wander the pilgrimage route through ancient forests, discover sacred mountain shrines and soak in the healing waters of isolated hot springs.

Ninja Museum, Iga-Ueno Learn about the stealth arts of Japan’s medieval spies and assassins, and see a live demonstration of ninja fighting techniques.

Kōbe jazz Spend an evening in one of this cosmopolitan city’s jazz clubs.

Himeji-jō Japan’s finest castle, dating from the seventeenth century and dominated by a towering six-storey donjon.

Kinosaki Onsen Enjoy a luxury onsen experience in this picturesque hot-spring town.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

Kansai Area Pass If you plan to travel intensively around the region, you might want to buy JR West’s Kansai Area Pass. Valid for between one and four consecutive days (¥2300–6600), the pass allows unlimited travel on all local services operated by JR West, apart from the Shinkansen. It also offers discounts on admission to various cultural and tourist sights, including art museums and amusement parks along JR lines.

Sanyō-San’in Area Pass For those travelling on to Fukuoka, the San’yō Area Pass covers JR services from Kansai Airport via Osaka, Kōbe and Himeji, including the Sanyo Shinkansen (7 days; ¥19,400).

Kansai Thru Pass A convenient and economical way to access the region’s private railway lines, subway networks and bus companies is with the Kansai Thru Pass (2 days ¥4300, 3 days ¥5300), which enables travellers to ride on almost any bus, subway or private railway (ie non-JR trains) in the region. Even if you have a JR Pass, this pass can be handy, as it saves the hassle of buying tickets each time you jump on a bus or ride the subway.

OSAKA ORIENTATION

Like all big Japanese cities, Osaka is divided into wards (ku), but you’ll often hear locals talking of Kita (north) and Minami (south), the split being along Chūō-dōri. Kita covers the areas of Umeda, where all the main railway companies have stations, and Shin-Osaka, north of the Yodo-gawa River and location of the Shinkansen station. On the east side of this area is Osaka-jō, the castle. The shopping and entertainment districts of Shinsaibashi, Dōtombori, Amerika-mura and Namba are all part of Minami.

Slightly further south is Tennōji, where you’ll find Tennōji-kōen, the temple Shitennō-ji and Abeno Harukas, Japan’s tallest skyscraper. Further south again is the ancient shrine of Sumiyoshi Taisha. West of these districts lies the patchwork of landfill islands edging Osaka Bay, home to Universal Studios Japan and the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyūkan at Tempozan Harbour Village.

Kintetsu Rail Pass The Kintetsu Rail Pass (1 day ¥1500, 2 days ¥2500, 5 days ¥3700) covers the whole of the extensive Kintetsu network – except for the Nara Kotsu, Mie Kotsu and Toba Kamome (Seagull) buses, for which you’ll need the Kintetsu Rail Pass Plus (5 days ¥4900) – and gives good discounts on entry to major sights.

Osaka

大阪

Japan’s third-largest city after Tokyo and Yokohama, the vibrant metropolis of OSAKA is inhabited by famously easy-going citizens with a taste for the good things in life. It may lack the traditional townscapes found in nearby Kyoto, but having received a bad rap as a tourist destination for many years, Osaka has re-branded itself and improved its image over the last decade or so. Urban revitalization and ambitious architectural projects, such as the 300m-tall Abeno Harukas skyscraper, have complemented the city’s fantastic food scene and succeeded in making it a popular destination for tourists.

Osakans speak one of Japan’s more earthy dialects, Osaka-ben, and are as friendly as Kyoto folk can be frosty. They may greet each other saying “Mō kari-makka?” (“Are you making any money?”), but Osakans also know how to enjoy themselves outside of work. There are large entertainment districts in the north and south of the city, and the Osaka live-music scene showcases eclectic local talent as well as international acts. In a city that cultivated high arts, such as bunraku puppetry, the locals also have a gift for bawdy comedy; Takeshi “Beat” Kitano, the internationally famous film director, started his career as a comedian here. The city continues to produce successful comedy duos who dominate national TV variety shows, and Osakans are very proud that their dialect has now become popular as the language of comedians.

Brief history

Osaka’s history stretches back to the fifth century AD, when it was known as Naniwa and its port served as a gateway to the more advanced cultures of Korea and China. For a short period, from the middle of the seventh century, the thriving city was Japan’s capital, but in the turbulent centuries that followed it lost its status, changed its name to Osaka and developed as a temple town. It was on the site of the temple Ishiyama Hongan-ji that the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi decided to build his castle in 1583, and it became a key bastion in his campaign to unite the country.

With Toyotomi’s death in 1598, another period of political instability loomed in Osaka for his supporters, as rival Tokugawa Ieyasu shifted the capital to Edo. The shogun’s troops besieged the castle in 1614 and destroyed it a year later. With Japan firmly under their control, the Tokugawa shoguns were happy to allow the castle to be rebuilt and for Osaka to continue developing as an economic and commercial centre. The wealth of what became known as the “Kitchen of Japan” led to patronage of the arts, such as kabuki and bunraku, and the deep appreciation of gourmet pursuits (the origin of the famous Osaka expression “kuidaore”, to eat oneself bankrupt) that still exists today.

Despite the city having a GDP comparable to that of New Zealand, the local government has been struggling financially for decades, although politicians still argue that Osaka should become the “back-up” capital in case Tokyo is affected by a disaster.

THE INDOMITABLE FORTRESS

Despite being largely a concrete reconstruction, Osaka-jō can be counted a great survivor, a tangible link with the city’s illustrious past as Japan’s one-time seat of power. The castle’s roots go back to the early sixteenth century, when an influential Buddhist sect built its fortified temple headquarters, Ishiyama Hongan-ji, beside the confluence of the Ōkawa and Neya-gawa rivers. For a decade, the monks held out against warlord Oda Nobunaga, before handing their fortress over in 1580. Nobunaga’s successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, decided to build the grandest castle in Japan on the temple site. For three years from 1583, tens of thousands of men laboured on the enormous castle, and craftsmen were drafted in from around Japan to give the eight-storey central donjon the finest gold-leaf decoration.

Hideyoshi died in 1598, and his son and heir Hideyori was immediately under threat from rival Tokugawa Ieyasu. In 1614, the would-be shogun laid siege to the castle, even though his favourite granddaughter Senhime, wife of Hideyori, was inside. A year later, he breached the castle and reduced it to ruins. Hideyori and his mother committed suicide rather than surrender, but Senhime survived, married Honda Tadatoki and went on to become the mistress of Himeji-jō. When Ieyasu allowed the castle to be rebuilt in the 1620s, he made sure it was not on the same scale as his own residence in Edo. In 1665, the donjon was again burnt to the ground after being struck by lightning. It was not rebuilt until the 1840s and then only lasted another thirty years before the Tokugawa troops set fire to it during the civil war that briefly raged before the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Osaka’s citizens, however, had grown fond of their castle, so the donjon was rebuilt once more in 1931 – this time from concrete – and it has remained standing despite the heavy bombing of the city during World War II.

Osaka-jō

大阪城 • 1-1 Osaka-jō • Daily 9am–4.30pm • Park free; Osaka Castle ¥600 • 06 6941 3044, osakacastle.net • Ōte-mon is a 2min walk northeast of the Tanimachi 4-chōme subway station; alternatively, take the JR Osaka Loop line to Osaka-jō Kōen Station

Some cynics suggest that the only reason Osaka-jō is the single most visited attraction in Japan – outdoing the country’s best fortress Himeji-jō and even Mount Fuji – is because it’s the only thing to see in the city. In fact, Osaka has plenty to see, but the castle is the main focus, and justly so.

There are several entrances to the park surrounding the castle, but the most impressive is through the Ōte-mon (Main Gate), dating from 1629, on the west side. If you cross the inner moat though the southern Sakura-mon, keep an eye out for the 130-tonne Tako-ishi (“Octopus Stone”) as you head up towards the donjon: with a surface area of sixty square metres, this is the largest rock used in the original construction of the castle walls.

Donjon

天守閣, Tenshukaku

It’s long been a point of amusement that Osaka-jō’s main tower, or donjon, has its own elevator inside, as well as one outside, so that the elderly and those in wheelchairs can avoid the steps to the entrance. Head up to the eighth floor for a panoramic view of the city and castle grounds; the orchards you can see between the moats on the castle’s eastern flank are a riot of plum blossom in March. Working your way down the floors, you’ll be guided through the life of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and the castle’s colourful history. The displays include the highly detailed folding screen painting The Summer War in Osaka and a full-scale re-creation of Toyotomi’s famous golden tearoom. On the first floor, it’s worth dropping by the mini-theatre to see the free history videos with English subtitles.

Osaka International Peace Centre

大阪国際平和センター, Ōsaka Kokusai Heiwa Senta • 2-1 Osaka-jō • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥250 • 06 6947 7208, peace-osaka.or.jp

The sobering Osaka International Peace Centre is located in the southern corner of the Osaka-jō-kōen. As at similar museums in Hiroshima and Nagasaki, the heavy-going displays attempt to explain Japan’s experiences of World War II. Here, however, there is less emphasis on Japan’s provocative actions before and during the war, and more prominence is given to the suffering of Osaka when it was heavily bombed. The displays detailing life during that time emphasize the misery of war, and visitors are asked to leave a message of peace.

Osaka Museum of History

大阪歴史博物館, Ōsaka Rekishi Hakubutsukan • 4-1-32 Otemae • 9.30am–4.30pm; closed Tues • ¥600, audio guides ¥200 • 06 6946 5728, www.mus-his.city.osaka.jp

To the southwest of Osaka-jō, the stunning Osaka Museum of History is housed in a twelve-storey concrete and glass structure shaped like a giant ship’s funnel – the “edge” pointing towards the castle is made of glass and offers excellent views. One of the city’s premier attractions, the museum is built on the site of the Asuka-period Naniwa-no-Miya Palace, remains of which have been preserved in the museum’s basement. Above that, from the seventh floor up, are four storeys of interesting displays featuring antique manuscripts and intricate scale models of street scenes and long-vanished buildings that once played important roles in Osaka’s cultural and social life. English explanations are limited, so it’s worth renting an audio guide.

Umeda

梅田

In the north of Osaka, the meeting point of the JR, Hankyū and Hanshin railway lines, plus the Midosuji, Yotsubashi and Tanimachi subway lines, is the Umeda area, home to some interesting modern architecture. Even if you don’t plan to take a train, the Baroque entrance hall of the Hankyū Umeda Station (阪急梅田駅) is worth a look. JR Osaka Station houses two large department stores, as well as a shopping mall and cinema.

Hep Five

ヘップファイブー大阪 • 5-15 Kakuda-chō • Shops Daily 11am–9pm • Restaurants Daily 11am–10.30pm • Ferris Wheel Daily 11am–10.45pm • ¥600 • hepfive.jp

The eleven-storey HEP Five shopping and dining extravaganza is one of northern Osaka’s landmark buildings. The huge red Ferris wheel on its roof offers excellent vistas of the city and, inside, you’ll find more than 150 shops and restaurants. Outside the main entrance, Osaka’s trendy urban youth congregate, making it a great place to observe the latest fashions.

Ohatsu Tenjin

お初天神 • 2-5-4 Sonezaki • Daily 6am–midnight • Free • 06 6311 0895, tuyutenjin.com/en • A 5min walk from JR Osaka or Hankyū Umeda stations

The atmospheric shrine of Tsuyu no Tenjinja, founded more than 1300 years ago, is more popularly known as Ohatsu Tenjin because of the doomed romance of Ohatsu and her lover Tokubei, who committed suicide here in 1703. The shrine is a popular destination for young couples who want to pray for a strong relationship, and there is a variety of marriage charms for sale. A flea market is held here on the first Friday of each month.

Umeda Sky Building

梅田スカイビル • 1-1-88 Oyodonaka • Kuchu Teien Observatory daily 9.30am–10pm • ¥1500 • 06 6440 3855, www.kybldg.co.jp

Immediately west of Hankyū Umeda Station, a tunnel leads beneath the railway sidings to the twin towers of the Umeda Sky Building, a striking skyscraper, where you can take a glass elevator up to the Kuchu Teien Observatory, 170m above the ground, and enjoy 360-degree views of north Osaka. The Shōwa-esque Takimi-koji (滝見小路) restaurant street at the base of the building has a nice retro atmosphere and is a good place for a drink or a snack.

Osaka Museum of Housing and Living

大阪くらしの今昔館, Ōsaka Kusashi Konjyaku-Kan • 8F–10F 6-4-20 Tenjinbashi • 10am–4.30pm; closed Tues • ¥600 • 06 6242 1170, konjyakukan.com • The museum is a 2min walk from Tenjinbashisuji 6-chome subway station

The Osaka Museum of Housing and Living is a great place to get a sense of Naniwa, as the city was called in the Edo period. On one floor there’s a complete replica of an 1830s neighbourhood with shops, homes and other urban features of the time. Models and images showing how modern Osaka developed from the Meiji period to the post-World War II era take up the other floor of the museum.

Naka-no-shima

中之島

The thin island of Naka-no-shima is sandwiched between the Dōjima and Tosabori rivers, south of Umeda. As well as the pleasant riverside park and walkways, there are two excellent museums here.

Museum of Oriental Ceramics

東洋陶磁美術館, Tōyō Tōji Bijutsukan • 1-1-26 Naka-no-shima • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥500 • 06 6223 0055, www.moco.or.jp/en

Housing an exemplary collection of ancient Chinese and Korean pottery, the impressive Museum of Oriental Ceramics has a hushed, reverential atmosphere that is a world away from the bustling city outside. The exhibits are well displayed and regular special exhibitions (additional charge) offer fascinating insights into the ancient flow of arts and crafts between China, Korea and Japan.

National Museum of Art Osaka

国立国際美術館, Kokuritsu Kokusai Bijutsukan • 4-2-55 Naka-no-shima • Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm, until 7.30pm Fri & Sat • ¥430 • 06 6447 4680, www.nmao.go.jp

At the western end of the island of Naka-no-shima, the National Museum of Art Osaka holds engaging exhibitions of contemporary Japanese and international art. The museum’s entrance is above ground – look out for a large steel structure, which is supposed to represent bamboo – while the galleries are housed in two floors below the street.

Tennōji

South of downtown Osaka, the area of Tennōji, centred around the large green expanse of Tennōji-kōen, is home to one of Japan’s earliest Buddhist temples, Shitennō-ji, as well as the country’s tallest skyscraper, Abeno Harukas.

Tennōji-kōen

天王寺公園 • 1-108 Chausuyama-chō • Daily 7am–10pm • 06 6771 8401, tennoji-park/jp.en

Tennōji-kōen was opened as a botanical garden in 1909 on a historic site that includes an ancient tumulus (burial mound). The park is also home to Keitakuen, a pretty, traditional Japanese garden arranged around a central pond, which was donated to the city by Baron Sumitomo, whose family owned the trading company of the same name. As well as Ten-Shiba, a busy hub of cafés and restaurants in the park’s southwest corner, Tennōji-kōen also houses the city’s fine arts museum and a rather depressing zoo.

Abeno Harukas

阿部野ハルカス • 1-1-43 Abeno-suji • Daily 9am–10pm • Observation deck ¥1500 • 06 6624 1111, www.benoharukas-300.jp/en • Directly above Ōsaka-Abenobashi Station, and next to JR and Tanimachi subway line Tennōji Station

Osaka’s newest landmark is the 300m-tall Abeno Harukas skyscraper, designed by Argentinian-American César Pelli. Completed in 2014, it’s a massive commercial and office complex of sixty floors, with indoor and semi-outdoor observatories, a shop and a café on the top three floors. From here, there are spectacular panoramic views over Osaka city, especially memorable at night.

Tsūtenkaku Tower

通天閣 • 1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi • Daily 8.30am–9pm • ¥800 • 06 6641 9555, www.tsutenkaku.co.jp • A short walk east from Ebisuchō Station on the Hankai tramway line, or a 10min walk north from Shin-Imamiya Station on the JR Osaka Loop line

On the western side of Tennōji-kōen is the retro 103m-high Tsūtenkaku Tower. Rebuilt in the 1950s after it was destroyed during World War II, the tower stands in the centre of the rather run-down area of Shin-Sekai (“New World”; 新世界), a raffish district of narrow shopping arcades, cheap bars, restaurants and pachinko parlours.

Shitennō-ji

四天王寺 • 1-11-18 Shitennō-ji • Temple Daily 8.30am–4.30pm; Oct–March till 4pm • ¥300 • Treasure Hall Tues–Sun 8.30am–4pm • ¥500 • 06 6771 0066, shitennoji.or.jp • The main entrance to the temple is a 5min walk south of Shitennōji-mae Yūhigaoka subway station and 15min north of the Tennōji JR station

One of the first Buddhist temples in Japan, Shitennō-ji lies on the northern edge of Tennōji-kōen. The temple has retained its classical layout but contains none of the buildings originally erected in 593 AD; the oldest feature of the windswept, concrete complex, with turtle ponds and a five-storey pagoda at its centre, is the late thirteenth-century torii at the main entrance gate. The treasure hall, in the modern white building behind the central courtyard, contains gorgeous orange costumes and enormous mandalas, carved with fantastic birds and dragons, which are used for the ceremonial bugaku dances held at the temple three times a year (check the website for dates).

Liberty Osaka

リバティ大阪 • 3-6-36 Naniwa-nishi • Wed–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat 1–5pm • ¥500 • 06 6561 5891, liberty.or.jp • An 8min walk south of Ashihara-bashi Station on the JR Osaka Loop line

Popularly known as Liberty Osaka, the Osaka Museum of Human Rights contains remarkable exhibits that tackle Japan’s most taboo subjects. There’s an English-language leaflet and an audio guide that explains the displays, which include the untouchable caste (the Burakumin), Japan’s ethnic minorities, the disabled, the sexist treatment of women, and the effects of pollution, most tragically seen in the exhibition about Minamata disease.

Sumiyoshi Taisha

住吉大社 • 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi • Daily dawn–dusk • 06 6672 0753, sumiyoshitaisha.net • Take the Hankai tramway from Tennōji to Sumiyoshi-tori-mae Station, or the Nankai line from Namba to Sumiyoshi-taisha Station

Built in 211 AD, Osaka’s grandest shrine is Sumiyoshi Taisha, home of the Shintō gods of the sea. According to legend, the grateful Empress Jingō ordered its construction after returning safely from a voyage to Korea. With logs jutting out at angles from the thatched roofs, its buildings exemplify sumiyoshi zukuri, one of Japan’s oldest styles of shrine architecture. Unlike similar complexes at Ise and Izumo Taisha, Sumiyoshi Taisha is painted bright red, in sharp contrast with its wooded surroundings. The approach to the complex takes you over the elegant humpbacked Sori-hashi (arched bridge), donated to the shrine by Yodogimi, the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s lover.

Osaka Bay

大阪湾, Ōsaka-wan • Take the Chūō line subway to Osaka-kō Station and walk north towards the Ferris wheel

The Osaka Bay area consists of man-made islands and reclaimed waterfront areas such as Saki-shima, home to the city’s second-tallest building, the WTC Cosmotower, and Sakura-jima, where Universal Studios Japan is situated. The Tempozan Harbour Village (天保山ハーバービレッジ) district features a large Ferris wheel and an excellent aquarium.

Osaka Aquarium Kaiyūkan

大阪海遊館, Osaka Kaiyūkan • 1-1-10 Kaigan-dōri • Daily 10am–7pm; May, July, Aug & Oct from 9.30am • ¥2300 • 06 6576 5501, kaiyukan.com

Inside an exotic butterfly-shaped building, decorated with a giant fish-tank mosaic, is the impressive Osaka Aquarium Kaiyūkan. It’s constructed so that you wind down, floor by floor between fourteen elongated tanks, each representing a different aquatic environment, from Antarctica to the Aleutian Islands. The beauty of the design means you can, for example, watch seals basking on the rocks at the top of the tank and see them swimming, torpedo-like, through the lower depths later. The huge central tank represents the Pacific Ocean and is filled with a staggering variety of fish, including various species of rays; sadly, given their size, it is also home to a couple of whale sharks. The giant spider crabs provide a fitting climax to Japan’s best aquarium.

Universal Studios Japan

ユニバーサル・スタジオ・ジャパン • 2-1-33 Sakura-jima • Generally Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9am–8.30pm, but may vary throughout the year • Day pass ¥7600 • 06 6465 3000, www.usj.co.jp/e • Take the JR Osaka Loop line or Hanshin Namba line to Nishi-kujō Station and change on to the JR Yumesaki line to Universal-City Station

Covering some 140 acres on Osaka’s western waterfront, Universal Studios Japan is one of the nation’s leading theme parks and is hugely popular among young Japanese. Its attractions are based on Hollywood movies, such as the Harry Potter series, and there is a huge variety of rides, live shows and restaurants in the park.

North of the centre

A handful of museums to the north of central Osaka are worth a visit. If you won’t be spending much time in rural Japan, then the Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses offers a glimpse of traditional inaka (countryside) living. Foodies will enjoy the interactive Momofuku Andō Instant Ramen Museum, where you can learn about the origins of one of the world’s favourite fast foods.

Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses

日本民家集落博物館, Nihon Minka Shuraku Hakubutsukan • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥500 • Take the Midosuji subway line and then the connecting Kita-Osaka Kyuko line to Ryokuchi-koen, from where it’s a 30min walk from the west exit • 06 6862 3137, occh.or.jp/minka

The Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses in Ryokuchi-kōen is an outdoor architectural museum with a wonderful collection of eleven thatch-roofed minka, or traditional Japanese farmhouses. The original buildings have been transported here from all over Kansai, as well as from Chubu, Tohoku and Kyūshū, and immaculately reconstructed in the park. Many were built during the Edo period and were still in use up until the 1960s. The park is especially nice to visit during spring and autumn.

CUPNOODLES Museum

カップヌードルミュージアム 大阪池田, Andō Momofuku Hatsumei Kinenkan • 8-25 Masumi-chō • Daily 9.30am–3.30pm; closed Tues • Free • 072 752 3484, cupnoodles-museum.jp/en • Take the Hankyu Takarazuka line to Ikeda Station, from where it’s a 5min walk

In 1958, Andō Momofuku, an immigrant from Taiwan, invented a new kind of fast-food culture in a small shed in Osaka; today, it’s estimated that 100 billion servings of instant ramen are consumed annually. Everything you ever wanted to know about the origin and development of instant noodles is showcased in the well-designed CUPNOODLES Museum. It’s a great place for kids to interact with the exhibits before slurping your own bowl of ramen.

National Museum of Ethnology

国立民族博物館, Kokuritsu Minzoku Hakubutsukan • 10-1 Senri Expo Park • 10am–4.30pm; closed Wed • ¥580 • 06 6876 2151, www.minpaku.ac.jp/english • Take the Midosuji subway line to Senri-Chuō Station, and then the Osaka Monorail to Banpaku-Kinen-Kōen Station, from where it’s a 15min walk

The fascinating National Museum of Ethnology has a massive collection of items relating to ethnology and cultural anthropology, as well as an excellent library of printed materials and films. The collection includes jewellery, costumes, musical instruments and even transportation from Japan and around the world. To make the most of your visit, it’s best to pick up a free audio guide at reception.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OSAKA

Served by two airports, numerous ferries and buses and a slew of railway companies, Osaka is accessible from almost any point in Japan and, via Kansai International Airport, from many places overseas, too. There’s also a weekly ferry service between Osaka and Shanghai in China.

BY PLANE

KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

On a man-made island in Osaka Bay, 35km south of Osaka city centre and approximately 100km from Kyoto, Kansai International Airport (KIX; 関西国際空港; Kansai Kūkō; 072 455 2500, www.kansai-airport.or.jp) handles both international and domestic flights. The international departure lounge is on the fourth floor and domestic departures are on the second floor. KIX Terminal 2 (KIX第2ターミナル; 072 455 2911, www.kansai-airport.or.jp/t2) services budget airlines, and is currently only used by Peach Aviation for Asian and some domestic destinations. Shuttle buses connect Terminal 2 with Terminal 1.

Destinations Fukuoka (6 daily; 1hr 15min); Kagoshima (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Nagasaki (daily; 1hr 15min); Naha (14 daily; 2hr 10min); Sapporo (13 daily; 1hr 55min); Sendai (3 daily; 1hr 20min); Tokyo Haneda (20 daily; 1hr 15min); and Tokyo Narita

(5 daily; 1hr 20min).

GETTING INTO TOWN FROM KANSAI

By train The fastest way into the city is by train, from the station connected to the second floor of the passenger terminal building. The regular Nankai Express, or kyūkō (急行; ¥930), takes 43min to reach Nankai Namba Station (南海難波駅), although it’s hard to resist the chic Rapi:t, designed like a train from a sci-fi comic, which costs ¥1450 and does the journey in 34min. JR also runs trains directly to several stations in and around Osaka from KIX, including Tennoji Station (天王寺駅; 45min: ¥1080), from where it’s just a few stops on the Midosuji subway line to JR Namba Station (難波駅), for access to central Osaka; if you have a JR Pass voucher, you can exchange it at Kansai Airport Station. Alternatively, JR Pass holders can also ride the Haruka limited express, which stops at Tennōji Station (35min; ¥2270) and Shin-Osaka Station (新大阪駅; 50min; ¥2910), for the Shinkansen, before continuing on to Kyoto (1hr 20min; ¥3430).

By limousine Limousine buses to various locations around Osaka, including several hotels, depart from international arrivals. All central city locations take 40min–1hr to reach, depending on the traffic, and cost ¥1600.

By taxi Taxis to central Osaka are very expensive (from ¥18,000), and no faster than the buses.

ITAMI AIRPORT

Osaka International Airport, also known as Itami Airport (大阪国際空港; 06 6856 6781, www.osaka-airport.co.jp), is 10km north of the city centre and, despite the name, only handles domestic flights.

Destinations Akita (6 daily; 1hr 30min); Aomori (6 daily; 1hr 40min); Fukuoka (10 daily; 1hr 15min); Kagoshima (13 daily; 1hr 10min); Kumamoto (9 daily; 1hr 10min); Miyazaki (11 daily; 1hr 5min); Nagasaki (7 daily; 1hr 15min); Naha

(5 daily; 1hr 10min); Niigata (10 daily; 1hr); Ōita (7 daily; 1hr); Sendai (15 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokyo Haneda (30 daily; 1hr 5min); Tokyo Narita (5 daily; 1hr 20); and Yamagata (3 daily; 1hr 15min).

GETTING INTO TOWN FROM ITAMI

By bus There are regular buses into the city (30–40min depending on destination) and also to Shin-Osaka Station (45min; ¥510), where you can connect to the Shinkansen.

By limousine Direct limousine buses run to Shin-Osaka Station (25min; ¥510), Osaka Station (30min; ¥650) and on to Kōbe (45min; ¥1070) and Kyoto (55min; ¥1340).

By monorail A monorail (tickets from ¥200) links the airport with parts of north Osaka, connecting at various points to the city subway system and the Hankyū, Keihan and Kita-Osaka Kyuko private railways.

By taxi A taxi to Umeda in central Osaka costs around ¥5500.

BY TRAIN

Shin-Osaka Station (新大阪駅) Shinkansen pull into Shin-Osaka Station, north of the city centre. You can transfer here to other JR services around the area or to the city’s subway lines.

Destinations Fukuoka (Hakata Station; every 25min; 2hr 35min); Himeji (every 20min; 35min); Hiroshima (every 25min; 1hr 30min); Kansai International Airport (every 30min; 1hr 5min); Kōbe (Shin-Kōbe Station; every 15min; 15min); Kyoto (every 10min; 15min); Nagoya (every 15min; 1hr 20min); Okayama (every 20min; 50min); and Tokyo (every 15min; 2hr 55min).

Osaka Station (大阪駅) JR services along the Tōkaidō line, connecting Kyoto and Kōbe with Osaka, arrive at the central Osaka Station in Umeda, where you’ll also find the termini for the Hankyū and Hanshin lines (see below): these both provide cheaper connections to Kyoto and Kōbe than JR, if you don’t have a rail pass.

Destinations Akita (daily; 11hr); Aomori (daily; 10hr 45min); Kanazawa (every 30min; 2hr 40min); Kii-Tanabe (hourly; 2hr 15min); Kōbe (Sannomiya Station; every 10min; 25min); Kyoto (every 10min; 30min); Takarazuka (every 15min; 25min).

Hankyu Umeda Station (阪急梅田駅) For Hankyū line services to Kyoto (Kawaramachi Station; every 5min; 30min), Kōbe (Sannomiya Station; every 15min; 55min) and Takarazuka (every 10min; 35min).

Hanshin Umeda Station (阪神梅田) For Hanshin line services to Kōbe (Sannomiya Station; every 15min; 30min).

Keihan Yodoyabashi Station (京阪淀屋橋駅) Just south of the island of Naka-no-shima. For Keihan line services to Kyoto (Demachiyanagi Station; every 10min; 1hr).

Kintetsu Namba Station (近鉄難波駅) In Minami, in southern Osaka. For Kintetsu line services for Nara (every 10min; 40min).

Kintetsu Uehonmachi Station (近鉄上本町駅) For Kintetsu line services for Ise (1–2 hourly; 1hr 20min), Kashikojima (1–2 hourly; 2hr 20min) and Toba (every 20–30min; 1hr 50min) on the Shima Hantō.

Nankai Namba Station (南海難波駅) In the heart of the Minami district. For Nankai line services for Kansai International Airport (every 15min; 40min) and Kōya-san (every 20min–1hr; 1hr 30min–2hr).

BY BUS

Osaka has various long-distance bus stations with services mainly operated by Willer Express ( willerexpress.com) and JR Highway Buses ( www.nishinihonjrbus.co.jp). There are stations located near the JR Osaka Station in Umeda; at the Namba Kaisoku Bus Terminal and OCAT (Osaka City Air Terminal) in Namba; at Kintetsu Uehonmachi, south of the castle; and at Abenobashi near Tennōji, 1km further south of the castle. All are next to or near subway and train stations, for connections around the city. If you’re departing Osaka by bus, check first with one of the tourist information centres for timetables and which station to use.

Destinations: Fukuoka (daily; 10hr 50min); Hiroshima (5 daily; 5hr 30min); Nagano (3 daily; 6hr 35min–8hr 50min); Niigata (2 daily; 10hr 45min); Tokyo (35 daily; 9hr 45min); and Yonago (4 daily; 5hr).

BY FERRY

Osaka is a major port of call for many of the ferries plying routes around Japan, and sailing into Osaka Bay is a memorable way of approaching the city. The port is west of the city centre and has good transport links via the subway and train network.

Osaka Nankō Ferry Terminal (大阪南港フェリーターミナル) Most domestic and international ferries use the Osaka Nankō Ferry Terminal, close to Ferry Terminal Station on the Nanko Port Town subway line.

Izumiotsu Port (泉大津市湊) Hankyu ferries for Shinmoji on Kyūshu depart from Izumiotsu Port, reached by shuttle bus from Izumiotsu Station on the Nankai Line from Namba.

Ferry companies The main ferry operators are City Line ( www.cityline.co.jp), Ferry Sunflower ( ferry-sunflower.co.jp), Hankyū Ferry ( han9f.co.jp/en) and Orange Ferry ( www.orange-ferry.co.jp). Services to Shanghai are run by the Japan–China International Ferry Co ( shinganjin.com) and The Shanghai Ferry Company ( shanghai-ferry.co.jp), while Pan Star ( panstar.co.kr) runs ferries to Busan (South Korea).

Destinations Beppu (daily; 11hr 50min); Busan (3 weekly; 18hr 50min); Shanghai (1–2 weekly; 48hr); Shibushi (daily; 15hr); Shinmoji (3 daily; 12hr 30min); Toyo (daily; 8hr).

GETTING AROUND

By subway and train Like Tokyo, Osaka has an extensive subway and train system as well as a JR Osaka Loop line. The latter is handy if you’re using a rail pass, but most of the time you’ll find the subway more convenient and quicker for getting around the city. You can transfer between the nine subways on the same ticket, but if you switch to any of the railway lines at a connecting station, you’ll need to either buy another ticket or a special transfer ticket when you start your journey. Most journeys across central Osaka cost ¥230.

Tickets and passes Because Osaka’s attractions are widely scattered, investing in an Osaka 1-Day Pass (¥600 weekdays, ¥800 weekends) is worth considering if you’re up for a hectic round of the sights. The pass is valid on all the subway lines and buses, and will be date-stamped when you first pass through the gate machines. You could also buy a one- or two-day Amazing Osaka Pass (¥2700/3600), valid for both trains and buses and including free admission to 40 popular tourist sites, plus discounts at many others. These can be bought at subway-ticket vending machines as well as station kiosks.

By bus There are plenty of buses, but you’ll find the subways and trains with their English signs and maps much easier to use.

Car rental Several major car rental firms can be found at both Shin-Osaka and Osaka stations (both daily 8am–8pm) including JR Rent-a-Car (Shin-Osaka 06 6303 0181, Osaka 06 6341 3388, www.ekiren.co.jp) and Nippon Rent-a-Car (Shin-Osaka 06 6394 4919, Osaka Hankyu Umeda 06 6371 9354, ngroup-global.com/en).

INFORMATION AND TOURS

TOURIST OFFICES

The Osaka Tourist Association ( osaka-info.jp/en) is very helpful, with information offices all over the city, as well as at Kansai International Airport. All the tourist offices have English-speaking staff and can help with accommodation and transport.

JR Osaka Station tourist information centre 1F north central gate, JR Osaka Station. The city’s main tourist information centre, on the central concourse (daily 7am–11pm; 06 6131 4550).

JR Shin-Osaka Station tourist office 3F JR Shin-Osaka Station, next to the Shinkansen central ticket gates (daily 8am–10pm; 06 6131 4550).

Nankai Namba Station tourist information centre 1F Nankai Terminal Building, near the Nankai and Midosuji lines (daily 9am–10pm; 06 6631 9100).

Hankyu Station tourist office 1F Hankyu Umeda Station. For information about sights in the Hankyu area (daily 8am–5pm; hankyu.co.jp/area_info/tourist).

Kansai International Airport 1F South Arrivals. The airport has a tourist information counter (daily 7am–10pm; 072 456 6025) along with a separate desk where you can make hotel reservations.

LISTINGS

Information on events is listed in the free quarterly Kansai Scene ( kansaiscene.com), an English-language magazine that also has interesting features, and includes information on the Osaka club scene. It’s available from tourist offices, as well as main bookshops and pubs.

TOURS

Cycle Osaka Full-day (5–6hr; ¥10,000) and half-day (3hr; ¥6000) tours of Osaka’s main sights, in English, with bike and helmet rental included ( 090 9165 7168, cycleosaka.com). They also run daily food tours by bicycle (3hr; ¥9000), which are a great introduction to Osaka’s famous culinary culture.

ACCOMMODATION

Osaka’s accommodation is predominantly Western-style hotels. The Umeda area in Kita hosts the bulk of the city’s luxury hotels, while the shopping and nightlife districts of Shinsaibashi and Namba in Minami have a greater range of accommodation, catering to all budgets. Local transport is so efficient, however, that it’s no great problem to be based outside the central area.

KITA MAP AND THIS MAP

Hearton Hotel Nishi-Umeda ハートンホテル西梅田 3-3-55 Umeda 06 6342 1111, www.hearton.co.jp/hotel/nishi-umeda. Popular business hotel just behind the main post office next to JR Osaka Station. It’s not the newest hotel in Umeda but the rooms are smart, clean and functional, and come with cable TV and internet access. ¥9800

Imperial Hotel Osaka 帝国ホテル大阪 1-8-50 Tenmabashi 06 6881 1111, www.imperialhotel.co.jp/e/osaka. This opulent hotel, overlooking the Ōkawa River, is just as luxurious as its famous Tokyo predecessor. Purified air, a golf driving range and a choice of elegant restaurants and bars are all part of the experience. ¥23,800

Intercontinental Osaka インターコンチネンタル大阪 3-60 Ofuka-chō 06 6374 5700, icosaka.com/en. Swish luxury hotel with sweeping views over northern Osaka. The rooms are spacious and stylishly decorated, and also have Nespresso machines. There’s a fitness centre with swimming pool, as well as a spa for relaxation treatments. ¥39,250

J-Hoppers Osaka ジェイホッパーズ大阪 7-4-22 Fukushima 06 6453 6669, osaka.j-hoppers.com. This is Kita’s best budget option, in a handy location for exploring Osaka. Rooms are clean, the staff are happy to help with travel information, and the breezy rooftop garden is very popular. Free PC usage. Bicycle rental (¥700/day) also available. Dorms ¥2300, doubles ¥5600

Ritz Carlton Osaka リッツカールトン大阪 2-5-25 Umeda 06 6343 7000, ritzcarlton.com. Luxury hotel with the intimate feel of a English country house, liberally sprinkled with antiques and Japanese objets d’art. Rooms have fantastic views across the city, there’s a great range of restaurants (with live piano music), plus a pool and gym that are free to guests. ¥43,500

MINAMI MAP AND THIS MAP

Arietta アリエッタホテル 3-2-6 Azuchi-machi 06 6267 2787, thehotel.co.jp/en/arietta_osaka. Clean and smart business hotel with friendly English-speaking staff, conveniently located close to three subway lines. Good-sized twin rooms sleep up to three guests. ¥8650

Cross Hotel Osaka クロスホテル大阪 2-5-15 Shinsaibashi 06 6213 8281, crosshotel.com/eng_osaka. Stylish, buzzy hotel with efficient service, just minutes away from the Minami shopping and nightlife scene. The sleek rooms are fairly minimalist but are tastefully decorated, and there’s a very good restaurant with an open kitchen. ¥17,900

First Cabin ファーストキャビン 4-2-1 Namba Midosuji Building 06 6631 8090, first-cabin.jp. Smart capsule hotel for both men and women in the heart of Namba, with a first-class air-travel theme. Cabins, for single occupancy, are bigger than the business capsules but all have their own TV and internet connection. Excellent bath, café/bar and communal lounge facilities. ¥6900

Fuku Hostel 福ホステル 3F 2-9-6 Sennichimae 06 6633 8029, fukuhostel.jp. Popular hostel enjoying a great location in Namba (there’s a sister branch in Nihonbashi). There are shared kitchen and lounge areas, and the helpful staff are happy to give recommendations to help guests explore the surrounding area. Dorms ¥2900, doubles ¥7000

Hotel Nikkō Osaka ホテル日航大阪 1-3-3 Nishi-Shinsaibashi 06 6244 1111, hno.co.jp. Deluxe hotel close to nightlife and shopping arcades, with spacious and comfortable rooms, attentive service and a good range of restaurants, including a coffee shop that serves an excellent buffet breakfast. ¥31,400

Rock Star Hotel ロックスターホテル 1-4-11 Awaza 06 6538 6909, rockstar-hotel.jp. Small rock-music-themed boutique hotel – more so in the suites than in the standard rooms – close to Honmachi subway station. Rooms are compact but well equipped and decorated with artwork by cult Japanese photographer Moriyama Daidō. In warmer months, there’s a rooftop lounge bar. ¥13,000

Swissôtel Nankai Osaka スイスホテル南海大阪 5-1-60 Namba 06 6646 1111, swissotel-osaka.co.jp. Large international hotel located above Nankai Namba Station which makes it ultra-convenient for direct airport access. Rooms are fresh and modern with comfortable beds, and the service is impeccable. ¥32,000

OTHER AREAS MAP

Hiro’s Guesthouse ヒロゲストハウス 4-9-7 Momodani 090 6676 7393, hirosguesthouse.com. Friendly modern guesthouse in Minami’s Korea Town, near Momodani Station on the JR Osaka Loop line. Rooms (bunk beds only) are functional but well maintained and clean, and come with a/c. Guests also get use of a stylish and fully equipped kitchen. Dorms ¥2800

Hyatt Regency Osaka ハイアットリージェンシー大阪 1-13-11 Nankō-Kita 06 6612 1234, hyattregencyosaka.com. Good luxury choice near the port area, offering well-equipped rooms with a minimalist design, elegant public areas and restaurants, and indoor and outdoor pools. ¥18,000

EATING

The best choice of restaurants and cafés is around the Kita areas of Umeda and Chayama, and the Minami areas of Shinsaibashi, Dōtombori and Namba. Strolling around the narrow streets dotted with stand-up noodle and takoyaki bars, and restaurants with flickering neon signs and crazy displays – especially along canal-side Dōtombori (道頓堀) – is an appetizing experience in itself. The major hotels and department stores are also worth checking out, especially at lunchtime, when many restaurants offer special deals.

KITA MAP AND THIS MAP

Brooklyn Roasting Company ブルックリンロースティング 1F 2-1-16 Kitahama 06 6125 5740, brooklynroasting.jp. The best place in Osaka for a superbly brewed coffee – drip coffee is ¥450 and cappuccinos and lattes are ¥500. Sandwiches are also available at lunchtime (¥500). Daily 8am–8pm, Sat & Sun till 7pm.

Dynamic Kitchen & Bar Sun 燦 27F 4-15-10 Nishi-Tenma 0800 170 2116, www.dynac-japan.com/sun. With stunning nighttime views over the Kita area, this is a great place to enjoy modern Japanese cuisine. You can choose to sit at either ozashiki floor tables or at the counter. Excellent-value dinner courses of Kōbe and Nara beef from ¥8800. Daily noon–3pm & 5–11pm, Sun till 10.30pm.

Elephant Café エレファントカフェ 1–2F 2-28 Chaya-machi 06 6359 0136. International cuisine restaurant in the Chayama area with an exotically decorated interior of hanging lamps and fabrics, serving curries, noodles, pasta, dumplings, tapas and salads. The weekend set lunch (¥1300) is good value. Daily 5–11.30pm, Sat & Sun from 11.30am.

Fujiya 1935 ふじや1935 2-4-14 Yariya-machi 06 6941 2483, fujiya1935.com. Superb Michelin-starred European-Japanese fusion restaurant serving sophisticated dishes made with local ingredients. The seasonal fixed menu costs ¥10,00 for lunch or ¥16,500 for dinner. Reservations have to be made well in advance, and fixed menus paid for when your booking is confirmed. Mon–Sat noon–1pm & 6–8pm; closed first Mon of the month.

OSAKA: THE KITCHEN OF JAPAN

Osaka has a reputation as a foodies’ paradise, and it boasts many excellent local specialities. You shouldn’t leave town without going to an okonomiyaki restaurant, where you can eat the thick pancakes straight off the grill, or just grab some piping-hot takoyaki (fried octopus dumplings) from a street stall. Osaka’s own style of sushi is oshizushi, layers of vinegared rice, seaweed and fish cut into bite-size chunks, and the city also has a particular way of cooking chunky udon noodles, simmering them with a veggie, seafood or meat broth in a dish known as udonsuki. Osaka is also the home of shabu-shabu, where you cook thinly sliced pieces of meat or vegetables in a hotpot at the table, and then eat them with various dipping sauces.

Hajime ハジメ 1F 1-9-11 Edobori 06 6447 6688, hajime-artistes.com. Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant with a fabulous seasonal tasting menu (¥42,000) that fuses Japanese and French cuisine into a work of gastronomic art. There’s also a shorter, and slightly less expensive, tasting menu (¥21,600), though that doesn’t include their signature “Chikyu” vegetable dish. Reservations must be made in advance, and there’s a strict dress code and cancellation policy. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–8pm.

Iwatsuki 岩月 4-6-19 Tenjinbashi 06 6147 7327. This fine-dining restaurant just south of Tenma Station specializes in traditional kappo cuisine, where the focus is as much on the skill of the chef – you can watch him at work from the counter seating – as the quality of the seasonal ingredients. Try exquisitely prepared dishes such as namerō (minced fish cooked in miso, onions and ginger), curried chicken teriyaki (dishes from ¥800). 5.30–10.30pm, closed Thurs.

Kakigoya Fever 1111 かき小屋フィーバー1111 1-6 Ikeda-machi-chō 06 6352 3393, kakigoyafever.jp. If you love oysters fresh, fried or steamed, then this is the place to indulge. Prices are very reasonable – the all-you-can-eat course starts at ¥3500. Daily 5–11pm, Fri & Sat till midnight.

Katamari-Ya 塊肉バル 塊屋 ハービスプラザ店 B2 Herbis Plaza, 2-5-25 Umeda 06 4799 1011. Funky steakhouse serving Kuroge local beef that’s been fattened with red wine. Select your steak size (up to 600g) and choose from five different sauces. Prices start at ¥2500. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–10.30pm.

Kyu 大阪おでん久 7F Grand Front Osaka Bldg 4-20 Ōfuka-chō 06 6374 8999. This small restaurant is a great place for a warming winter meal of oden (vegetables, tofu, fishcake and boiled eggs stewed in a dashi broth) and yakiton (pork pieces grilled on skewers). Lunch sets start at ¥1000 and dinner courses are ¥3000; individual oden dishes start at just ¥205. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–11pm.

Nawa Sushi 縄寿司 2-14-1 Sonezaki 06 6312 9891. Generous servings of super-fresh sushi, including seared unagi (eel), and sashimi platters in a no-frills traditional setting. Opt for a counter seat on the ground floor, and don’t be shy about yelling out your order. Tues–Fri 4pm–12.30am, Sat & Sun noon–midnight.

Plum Cool Dining プラム 3F 4-6 Chaya-machi 06 6377 0701, plum.co.jp/chayamachi.html. Everything on the menu here is intended to be paired with umeshu (sweet plum wine). Try the delicious seafood chijimi (¥880) or their saga beef with yam sauce (from ¥1090); there’s also an extensive umeshu list, from ¥580 a glass. Daily 5.30–11.30pm, Sat & Sun from 5pm.

MINAMI MAP

Absinthe Solaar アブサンソラー 8F Namba Dining Maison, Takashiyama Department Store, 5-1-18 Namba 06 6633 1445, absinthe-jp.com. Rooftop restaurant with outdoor lounge area, great for enjoying the evening breeze during the hot summer months. The Mediterranean menu includes Greek salad (¥1200) and Moroccan-style lamb chops (¥2400). Daily 11am–midnight.

Doppa ドッパ 2F 1-6-9 Dōtombori 06 6212 0530. A friendly restaurant that’s a good mix of Italian and Osakan – hearty portions served without fuss. There are thirty kinds of pasta dishes on offer (from ¥780), as well as pizzas (¥850). Daily noon–11pm.

Green Earth グリーンアース 4-2-2 Kitakyūhōji-chō 06 6251 1245, osaka-vegetarian-ge.com/english.htm. This narrow café is one of the city’s most popular vegetarian establishments. They serve jumbo sandwiches (from ¥600), tasty curries (¥700) and filling veggie pizza (¥1000). Mon–Thurs & Sat 11.30am–5pm & 6–10pm, Fri 11.30am–3pm.

Hozenji Sanpei 法善寺三平 1-7-10 Dōtombori 06 6211 0399. Long-running okonomiyaki restaurant with lots of retro atmosphere. Sanpei-style okonomiyaki is ¥900, and side dishes such as yakisoba start at ¥800. Mon & Wed–Fri 5–11pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–3.30pm & 5–11pm.

Kuromon Sanpei 黒門三平 1-22-25 Nipponbashi 06 6635 1938, kuromon-sanpei.co.jp. Fresh seafood shop with a dining area, slap bang in the middle of Osaka’s best food market: choose what you’d like from the daily catch, and the chefs will prepare it in front of you. Their seafood rice bowls (¥1500) are delicious. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm.

YAMAZAKI WHISKY DISTILLERY

Whisky was introduced to Japan in the late nineteenth century, and in 1923 the Yamazaki Whisky Distillery – Japan’s oldest – was established by Suntory on a site halfway between Osaka and Kyoto. Suntory are today internationally recognized as the premium distillers of Japanese whisky, as well as being regular gold-medal winners at international competitions. The 2003 film Lost in Translation, with its iconic scene of actor Bill Murray flogging Suntory’s tipple in a Japanese TV commercial, has also helped to cement the company’s fame. In recent years, the distillery has become a popular destination for whisky lovers and regular tours (in Japanese, although free English audio guides are provided; from ¥1000; suntory.com/factory/yamazaki) give a good overview of the fermenting and ageing processes – though there’s no denying that many participants are mostly interested in getting to the tasting room, where you can sample some top-grade drams at very reasonable prices. To get to the distillery from Osaka or Kyoto, take the JR Tokaido line to Yamazaki Station, or the Hankyu line to Oyamazaki Station; from either station, it’s a ten-minute walk.

Nanbantei 南蛮亭 4-5-7 Nanba 06 6631 6178. In the alleyway behind the Shin Kabukiza Theatre, this popular yakitori-ya has a huge range of skewer food (from ¥150), an English menu (handy when every part of the chicken is used) and a friendly atmosphere. Tues–Sun 5–10.30pm.

Tsurutontan つるとんたん 3-17 Soemon-chō 06 6211 0021, tsurutontan.co.jp/shop/soemoncho-udon. Fabulous udon restaurant that serves an amazing range of traditional and modern fusion dishes in extremely large bowls. The umeboshi (pickled plum) udon is unbeatable for its classic home-style cooking taste (¥890), while the stone-baked carbonara udon (¥1480) really pushes the fusion boundaries by serving the thick white noodles with creamy seafood. Daily 10.30am–8pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP AND THIS MAP

The epicentre of Osaka’s frenetic nightlife is Ebisu-bashi, the bridge that crosses the Dōtombori canal just north of the Shōchiku-za Theatre, a 5min walk north of Namba Station; it’s a dazzling area to wander around, if only to check out the wild youth fashions on view, and pose for a photo with locals in front of the landmark Glico Man sign. Don’t miss out on strolling through the Amerika-mura area immediately west of Shinsaibashi, a street crowded with extremely cool shops and bars. In contrast, the Hozen-ji Yokochō, near the paper-lantern-festooned temple Hozen-ji, south of the Dōtombori canal, is old-time Osaka, a narrow alley of tiny watering holes. The Kita area also has its fair share of bars and clubs, mostly close to Umeda’s train stations; it’s also where most of the city’s LGBTQ scene is located.

BARS

Café Absinthe カフェアブサン 1F South Yotsubashi Bldg, 1-2-27 Kita-Horie 06 6534 6635, www.absinthe-jp.com. Mediterranean-style bar with live music, DJs and photography exhibitions. Tabbouleh and hummus (¥800) are on the menu, and they serve absinthe drinks (from ¥900). Daily noon–1am.

Craft Beer Works Kamikaze カミカゼ 1F Hifmiya Bldg, 1-22-21 Kita-Horie 06 6539 7550, cbw-kamikaze.com. This craft-beer specialist is a great place to get acquainted with the local brews. They have 23 different Japanese craft beers on tap, plus a small selection of imported beers. Daily 4pm–midnight.

Drunk Bears ドランクベアーズ B1, 10-12 Chaya-machi 06 6372 7275, altego.jp/db. Friendly pub-style bar in the NU Chayamachi shopping centre, with Belgian and American craft beers on tap (from ¥900), plus pub-food classics such as fish and chips (¥800). Mon–Thurs 11am–11.30pm, Fri & Sat till 1am.

Molto! モルト！ 31F Hankyū Grand Building Umeda, 8-47 Kakuda- chō 06 6809 2641. Popular craft-beer restaurant with fantastic night views of Umeda. Half pints start at ¥600, pints from ¥900, and there’s a decent menu of Italian favourites to go with your drinks. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–10.45pm.

Space Station スペースステーション 8F, 2-3-2 Shinsaibashisuji 080 4151 6336. Video game bar that has a serious, museum-like atmosphere as patrons reconnect with older-model Atari, Nintendo and Playstation consoles. Drinks from ¥600. No seating charge. Daily 7pm–2am.

Suntory Whisky House サントリーウイスキーハウス 2F Grand Front Osaka Bldg, 3-1 Ofuka-chō 06 6359 5177, suntory.co.jp/whisky/whiskyhouse. If you can’t make it to the distillery itself, head to this vast whisky emporium, complete with gallery, bar and restaurant, and try a five-sample set of award-winning Suntory whisky (¥1250). They also sell furniture and accessories made from white-oak whisky barrels. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–11pm.

Zerro ゼロ 2-3-2 Shinsaibashi 06 6211 0439. Popular bar with foreign and Japanese staff that hosts DJ events on Sat nights. Drinks are rather pricey, but there’s no extra charge for enjoying the music and dance at weekends. Daily 7pm–5am.

CLUBS AND LIVE MUSIC VENUES

Bears ライブハウスベアーズ B1 Shin-Nihon Namba Building, 3-14-5 Namba-naka 06 6649 5564, namba-bears.main.jp. The heart of the city’s underground music scene, with a diverse range of local experimental and avant-garde acts playing every night. Daily 5.30–11.30pm.

Billboard Live Osaka ビルボードライブ大阪 B2 Herbis Plaza Ent Bldg, 2-2-2 Umeda 06 6342 7722, billboard-live.com/club/o_index.html. Top-class jazz, soul, R&B and folk performers regularly play at this small-scale supper club. It’s pricey though, with tickets often in excess of ¥6000. Still, the sound system is excellent and the food’s tasty and reasonably priced (from ¥1200). Mon–Fri 5.30pm–10pm, Sat & Sun 3.30–10pm.

Club Circus クラブサーカス 2F Nakanishi Bldg, 1-8-16 Nishi-Shinsaibashi 06 6241 3822, circus-osaka.com. One of Osaka’s best clubs, with almost daily DJ events and theme parties. Door charge from ¥2000, depending on the event. Daily 5pm–late.

Joule ジュール 2–4F Minami-sumiyamachi Bldg, 2-11-7 Nishi-Shinsaibashi 06 6214 1223, club-joule.com. This very popular club in Amerika-mura has a fairly mainstream music policy and a laidback atmosphere. There’s a third-floor lounge for relaxing in when the dancefloor gets too full. Entrance from ¥2500. Daily 8pm–late.

Umeda TRAD 梅田アカソ 16-3 Doyama-chō 06 7897 2450, umedatrad.com. By local standards, this live-music venue is surprisingly large. Well-known domestic and international acts are regularly on the bill, playing everything from folk to heavy metal. Depending on who’s performing, entrance fees range from ¥2000 to ¥6800 (including one drink). Daily 5pm–late.

LGBTQ BARS AND CLUBS

The city’s LGBTQ scene is much smaller than that in Tokyo, and historically it’s tended to be in the Doyama-chō area of Kita rather than Minami. Check the free magazine Kansai Scene for the latest info on clubs, bars and one-off dance events.

Do with Cafe B1 9-23 Asano-machi 06 6312 1778. Dining bar with a nightly drag show, beginning at 8pm, and with an extra show at midnight on Fri and Sat nights. Daily 5pm–1am, Fri & Sat till 3am, Sun till midnight.

Explosion エクスプローション B1 Sanyo Kaikan, 8-23 Doyama-chō explosion.osaka/en. This club hosts men-only, women-only and mixed nights, with drag shows and films. Daily 8pm–4am, Sat & Sun from 9pm.

Frenz Frenzy フレンズ 1F 8-14 Kamiyama-chō 06 6311 1386. The first gay bar in Japan to be run by a non-Japanese, Frenz has firmly established itself at the centre of the Kansai LGBTQ community. It’s a relaxed and friendly place where you can drop by on your own or with friends, especially if you enjoy retro disco music. No cover charge. Mon & Sun 8pm–1am, Tues–Thurs 8pm–2am, Fri & Sat 8pm–5am.

ENTERTAINMENT AND THE ARTS

Traditional performing arts have flourished in Osaka since the Tokugawa shoguns in the seventeenth century. Full details of performances appear in the free monthly Kansai Scene.

BUNRAKU

National Bunraku Theatre 国立文楽劇場 1-12-10 Nipponbashi 03 3230 3000, www.ntj.jac.go.jp/english.html. Daily performances, at 11am and 4pm, in Jan, April, June–Aug and Nov. Tickets (price depends on performance) sell out quickly, but you can try at the theatre box office, a 3min walk from exit 7 of Nipponbashi Station. Tickets from ¥2800.

OSAKA FESTIVALS

Two spectacular festivals take place in Osaka during the summer season. Tenjin Matsuri, believed to be over 1000 years old, begins on July 24 with ceremonies at Osaka Tenmangū ( tenjinsan.com) near Osaka-jō, where Heian scholar Sugawara Michizane is enshrined. The main event is the following day, when there’s a parade of mikoshi (portable shrines), taiko drumming and a procession of boats, ending with a fabulous fireworks display.

In the far south of Osaka, one of Japan’s most exciting festivals, Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri, is held every September (usually mid-month but dates vary). Teams of men carry 35 heavy wooden “danjiri” floats at high speed through the streets of Kishiwada. It’s a thrilling and dangerous spectacle, with each float ridden by a “daiku gata” whose job it is to encourage and pilot his team. Accidents resulting in fatalities are not unknown.

KABUKI

Osaka Shōchiku-za Theatre 大阪松竹座 1-9-19 Dōtonbori 06 6214 2211, kabukiweb.net/theatres/shochikuza. Handsomely restored theatre, a 5min walk north of Namba Station. Single-act tickets from ¥1500.

NŌ

Ohtsuki Nō Theatre 大月能楽堂 A-7 Uemachi 06 6761 8055, noh-kyogen.com/index.html. You can sample nō plays at this lovely traditional theatre, a short walk northeast of Tanimachi 6-chōme Station. Performances are monthly; tickets cost from ¥5400.

Yamamoto Nō Theatre山本能楽堂 1-3-6 Tokui-chō 06 6943 9454, noh-theater.com. A great place to see nō performances, a short walk from Tanimachi 4-chōme station. They also hold workshops and other traditional performing arts events.

SHOPPING MAP AND THIS MAP

While Umeda, Shinsaibashi and Namba attract hordes of shoppers to their covered malls, there are other places in Osaka where window-shopping is just as interesting as picking up a bargain. In the Minami area, the Den Den Town (でんでんタウン) area, south of Nipponbashi Station, has long been the focus for electronic goods and, increasingly, has also become a handy place to pick up “character goods” for all your favourite manga and anime heroes. If you are keen on Japanese cuisine, Dōguyasuji (道具屋筋), just east of Nankai Namba Station, is the place to go for an interesting souvenir – it’s an entire street of kitchen and tableware shops, all stocked full with every kind of pot, pan, dish, knife and chopstick required for Japanese cooking.

Books Kinokuniya 紀伊国屋 1-1-3 Noda 06 6372 5821, www.kinokuniya.co.jp. Located behind the main entrance to Hankyū Umeda Station, this branch of the nationwide chain has a good range of books and magazines in English. Daily 10am–10pm.

Sakai Ichimonji Mitsuhide 堺一文字光秀 14-8 Naba Sennichi-mae 06 6633 9393, ichimonji.co.jp. This shop specializes in Sakai knives, which are manufactured by veteran craftsmen in southern Osaka. It also stocks a huge range of blades for every type of culinary need. Daily 9.30am–6.30pm, Sat & Sun from 10.30am.

Yodobashi Camera ヨドバシカメラ 1-1 Ofuka-chō 06 4802 1010, www.yodobashi.com. Directly across the street from the north exit of Osaka Station, this large electronics emporium has five floors of the latest camera, computer and other electronic equipment – there’s an overwhelming range of choice, and you can bargain here for a good deal. Daily 9.30am–10pm.

SPORTS

Baseball Osakans are mostly huge fans of the Hanshin Tigers ( hanshintigers.jp) baseball team and tend to get very excited when their team wins, often jumping into the Dōtombori canal to celebrate. The Hanshin Tigers play at the Kōshien Stadium in Nishinomiya, a 5min walk from Kōshien Station on the Hanshin line, during the professional baseball season. The highlight of the city’s sporting calendar, though, is the All-Japan High School Baseball Championship, also held at Kōshien Stadium, in spring and summer (the Hanshin Tigers play at the huge Kyocera Dome during these tournaments). Tickets start at ¥1900; for availability, check the Tigers’ website or with tourist information at JR Osaka Station (daily 7am–11pm; 06 6131 4550).

Sumo Osaka’s fifteen-day sumo tournament is held mid-March at Osaka Furitsu Taiikukan ( sumo.or.jp/en), a 10min walk from exit 5 of Namba Station. Seats for the bouts, which begin at 10am and run through to 6pm, sell out quickly, and you’ll need to arrive early to snag one of the standing-room tickets (¥2100), which go on sale each day at around 7.45am.

DIRECTORY

Consulates Australia, 16F, Twin 21 MID Tower, 2-1-61 Shiromi, Chuō-ku ( 06 6941 9271); China, 3-9-2 Utsubohon-machi, Nishi-ku ( 06 6445 9481); Russia, 1-2-2 Nishimidorigaoka, Toyonaka-shi ( 06 6848 3451); South Korea, 2-3-4 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuō-ku ( 06 6213 1401); UK, 19F Epson Osaka Building, 3-5-1 Bakuro-machi, Chuō-ku ( 06 6120 5600); USA, 2-11-5 Nishitemma, Kita-ku ( 06 6315 5900).

Emergencies The main police station is at 3-1-8 Otemae, Chuō-ku (Mon–Fri 9.15am–5.30pm; 06 6943 1234). For emergency numbers,.

Hospitals and medical advice Yodogawa Christian Hospital, 1-7-50 Kunijima, Higashi Yodogawa-ku ( 06 6322 2250, ych.or.jp/en), or the more central Sumitomo Hospital, 5-20-20 Naka-no-shima, Kita-ku ( 06 6443 1261, sumitomo-hp.or.jp). Otherwise, contact one of the tourist information counters.

Immigration Osaka’s immigration bureau is at 1-29-53 Nankō Kita, Suminoe-ku ( 06 4703 2100).

Lost property The lost and found department for Osaka’s buses and subways is at 1-1-17 Moto-machi, Naniwa-ku ( 06 6633 9151).

Post office The Central Post Office (1-3-1 Umeda; 0570 003280) is immediately southwest of JR Osaka Station and open daily 9am–9pm.

Takarazuka

宝塚

When the Hankyū railway tycoon Kobayashi Ichizō laid a line out to the tiny spa town of TAKARAZUKA, 20km northwest of Osaka in Hyōgo Prefecture, in 1911, he had an entertainment vision that extended way beyond soothing onsen dips. By 1924, he’d built the Takarazuka Grand Theatre (宝塚大劇場), which has been home ever since to the all-female musical drama troupe the Takarazuka Revue. Almost two million people – mainly women – flock to the town each year to watch the theatre’s lavish musical productions, while the Revue itself has become an enduring part of Japanese popular culture. Takarazuka is also the childhood home of the “God of Manga”, Tezuka Osamu, and a memorial museum here celebrates his life and work. It’s perfectly possible to see a performance and visit the museum in a day-trip from Osaka, Kōbe or Kyoto.

Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum

手塚治虫記念館, Tezuka Osamu Kinenkan • 7-65 Mukogawa-chō • 9.30am–4.30pm; closed Wed; check in advance for temporary closures • 40min animation workshops 10am–4pm (free) • ¥700 • 0797 81 2970, tezukaosamu.net/en/museum

The Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum, just beyond the Takarazuka Grand Theatre, celebrates the comic-book genius Tezuka Osamu (1928–89), creator of Astro Boy and Kimba the White Lion among many other famous manga and anime series. Tezuka was raised in Takarazuka, and as his mother was a big fan of the Revue, he saw dozens of its performances as a child. This apparently led him to create the romantic tale of the cross-dressing Princess Knight, and the Revue has subsequently adapted manga by Tezuka into its popular productions. This colourful museum charts his career, displays art from his books, comics and animated films, screens cartoons and gives you the chance to become an animator in the workshop.

THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF TAKARAZUKA

The all-female Takarazuka Revue Company (宝塚歌劇団) has been thrilling audiences with their Broadway-style shows since 1914. The company’s founder, Kobayashi Ichizō, was impressed by cabaret shows he’d seen in Paris, and sensed that Japanese audiences were ripe for lively Western musical dramas, but he also wanted to preserve something of Japan’s traditional theatre. So, as well as performing dance reviews and musicals, Takarazuka also act out classical Japanese plays and have developed shows from Western literature, including Gone with the Wind and War and Peace, and Hollywood movies. Even manga has been adapted, with The Rose of Versailles still one of Takarazuka’s most successful and enduring productions. The dramatizations tend to be heavy on romance, allowing the otoko-yaku (male role) and musume-yaku (female role) stars to shine on stage as they sing, dance and act out epic love stories.

The Revue has five troupes – Hana (flower), Tsuki (moon), Hoshi (star), Yuki (snow) and Sora (cosmos) – plus a specialist group known as the Senka (Superior Members), who perform as and when their roles are required, totalling approximately 400 members in all. It is thought that the overwhelmingly female audiences come to see the Revue to escape the frustrations of their daily lives, and that they enjoy seeing the idealized gender performances of the otoko-yaku. Thousands of young girls apply annually to join the troupe at the age of 16, and devote themselves to a punishing routine of classes that will enable them to embody the “modesty, fairness and grace” (the company’s motto) expected of a Takarasienne, as Takarazuka members are called.

Takarazuka Grand Theatre 宝塚大劇場 1-1-57 Sakae-machi kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english/index.html. Shows are also staged regularly in Tokyo, but most fans prefer to see the troupe on their home ground, and perhaps glimpse one of the stars on her way to and from the theatre. There are one or two performances a day (except Wed) at 11am, 1pm or 3pm, and tickets cost ¥3500–12,500. Reservations should be made up to a month in advance via the ticket office (daily 10am–5pm except for four-day closures between shows; 0570 00 5100, kageki.hankyu.co.jp/English/ticket/index.html; no English spoken, but tourist offices can often check availability on your behalf). Alternatively, tickets can be purchased from Ticket Pia outlets ( t.pia.jp) or at Lawson convenience stores. The theatre is a 10min walk southeast of the train stations, along the Hana-no-michi, or Flower Road, an elevated platform along an avenue of cherry trees, which is supposed to be like a passage leading onto the stage. At the theatre, there’s a vast complex of shops and cafés where you can easily pick up a bentō lunch or sandwiches.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TAKARAZUKA

By train The fastest train on the Hankyū Takarazuka line from Osaka’s Umeda Station takes less than 30min to reach Takarazuka Station (¥280). There are also direct trains on the JR Fukuchiyama line, taking a few minutes more from JR Osaka Station to JR Takarazuka Station, next to the Hankyū terminus and department store. If you’re coming from Kyoto, change at Jūso for the Takarazuka line. From Kōbe, change at Nishinomiya-Kitaguchi for the Imazu line to Takarazuka Station.

Tourist information The town’s tourist information office (daily 9am–5.15pm; 0797 81 5344) is on the first floor of Hankyū Takarazuka Station; you can pick up a map here.

Kōya-san

高野山

Ever since the Buddhist monk Kōbō Daishi founded a temple here in the early ninth century, KŌYA-SAN has been one of Japan’s holiest mountains. The town itself is in a high, cedar-filled valley near the top of the mountain, 800m above sea level, where more than one hundred monasteries cluster round the head temple of the Shingon school of Buddhism, Kongōbu-ji. This isolated community is protected by two concentric mountain chains of peaks, which are said to resemble an eight-petalled lotus blossom.

Whatever your religious persuasion, there’s a highly charged, slightly surreal atmosphere about this group of temples suspended among the clouds. The journey alone, a dramatic ride by train and ropeway (cable-car), is spectacular, and Kōya-san is also a good place to step out of Japan’s hectic city life for a day or two. One of its great delights is to stay in a shukubō, or temple lodging, and attend a dawn prayer service. Afterwards, head for the Garan, the mountain’s spiritual centre, or wander among the thousands of ancient tombs and memorials that populate the Okunoin cemetery, where Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum is honoured with a blaze of ten thousand oil-fuelled brass lanterns.

KŌBŌ DAISHI

Kōbō Daishi (known during his lifetime as Kūkai) was born in 774 AD in the town of Zentsūji, 30km from Takamatsu on the island of Shikoku. This pious man walked all over Shikoku as an itinerant priest and spent two years in Tang-dynasty China studying Esoteric Buddhism, before apparently gaining enlightenment at Muroto Misaki in Kōchi-ken and founding the Shingon (“True Word”) school of Buddhism. Shingon was influenced by the Tibetan and Central Asian tantric Buddhist traditions and this is reflected in the Shikoku temples, with their exotic decor and atmosphere.

In addition to his significant efforts in the development of Japanese Buddhism, Kōbō Daishi is often referred to as the father of Japanese culture; in many ways, he was the Japanese Leonardo da Vinci. He is credited with a phenomenal number of cultural and technological achievements: devising the kana syllabary (katakana and hiragana), opening the first public school, inventing pond irrigation, discovering mercury, and compiling the first dictionary. In addition, he was also renowned as a master calligrapher, poet, sculptor and healer.

Kōbō Daishi died on April 22, 835, the exact day he predicted he would. For his achievements, he was posthumously awarded the title Daishi (“Great Saint”) by the imperial court. Soon after his death, his disciples began a tour around the temples of Shikoku associated with the Daishi, thus establishing the pilgrimage as it is known today.

Kōya-san may be remote but it is not unpopulated. Some six thousand people live in the valley, and each year thousands of pilgrims visit the monasteries. In 2004, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has resulted in an increase in the number of overseas visitors. Life still moves at a fairly slow pace on Kōya-san: the town only has one convenience store, and by early evening the shops are shuttered and the streets almost deserted. Be aware that, while the mountain can be pleasantly cool in summer, winter temperatures often fall below freezing.

Brief history

The first monastery on Kōya-san was founded in the early ninth century by the monk Kūkai (774–835), known after his death as Kōbō Daishi. As a young monk, Kūkai travelled to China to study Esoteric Buddhism for two years. On his return in 806, he established a temple in Hakata (now Fukuoka) before moving to Takao-san near Kyoto, where his ardent prayers for the peace and prosperity of the nation won him powerful supporters. Kūkai was soon granted permission to found the Shingon school, which, in a break from contemporary belief, held that enlightenment could be achieved in one lifetime. But city life was too disruptive for serious meditation, so Kūkai set off round Japan to find a suitable mountain retreat.

According to legend, when Kūkai was about to leave China he flung his three-pronged vajra (the ritual implement of Shingon monks) clear across the ocean with the hope that it would show him where to establish his monastery. Later, as he drew near Kōya-san, he met a giant, red-faced hunter, who gave him a two-headed dog. The dog led Kūkai to the top of the mountain where, of course, he found his vajra hanging in a pine tree. In any event, the historical records show that Kūkai first came to Kōya-san in 816 and returned in 819 to consecrate the first temple. For a while after 823 he presided over Kyoto’s Tō-ji, but eventually returned to Kōya-san, where he died – or rather, according to Shingon belief, entered into eternal meditation – in 835. Even without his religious work, it seems that Kūkai was a remarkable man. After his death, Kūkai’s disciple Shinzen continued developing the monasteries, then collectively known as Kongōbu-ji, until there were more than 1500 monasteries and several thousand monks on the mountain top. The sect then had its ups and downs, of which the most serious was during the anti-Buddhist movement following the 1868 Meiji Restoration. Today, there are 117 temples atop Kōya-san and it is once again a major centre of pilgrimage.

Kōya-san town

The secular centre of Kōya-san lies at the Senjuin-bashi junction, and the town’s main sights are located either side of this crossroads: head west for Kōya-san’s principal temple, Kongōbu-ji, and its religious centre, the Garan, or east for the mossy graves of Okunoin cemetery. Buses from the ropeway station also stop at the crossroads, and you’ll find the tourist office, post office and police station all nearby, alongside restaurants and shops peddling souvenirs and pilgrims’ accessories.

Nyonin-dō

女人堂• Daily 8.30am–5pm • Free

The road into Kōya-san from the ropeway station winds through cool, dark cryptomeria forests for about 2km before passing a small temple called Nyonin-dō. This “Women’s Hall” marks one of the original seven entrances to the sacred precincts, beyond which women weren’t allowed to proceed; the practice continued until 1906 despite an imperial edict against it, issued in 1872. In the meantime, female pilgrims worshipped in special temples built beside each gate, of which Nyonin-dō is the last remaining.

Kongōbu-ji

金剛峯寺 • Daily 8.30am–5pm; Nov–April till 4.30pm • ¥500 • 0736 56 2011, koyasan.or.jp

Though it originally applied to the whole mountain community, the name Kongōbu-ji, meaning “Temple of the Diamond Mountain”, now refers specifically to the Shingon school’s chief monastic and administrative offices. In fact, this temple was a late addition to the complex, founded in 1593 by the ruler Toyotomi Hideyoshi in honour of his mother. It only later became Shingon’s headquarters.

Rebuilt in 1863 in the original style, the graceful building is famous largely for its late sixteenth-century screen paintings by Kyoto’s Kanō school of artists. The best of these are the cranes and pine trees by Kanō Motonobu decorating the Great Hall, and Kanō Tansai’s Willows in Four Seasons two rooms further along.

The serene Banryutei (ばん りゅ てい) rock garden is the largest in Japan, and was designed to represent a pair of dragons (here to protect the central Okuden building) emerging through a sea of clouds.

The Garan

伽藍 • Grounds Daily 8.30am–5pm • Free • Konpon Daitō Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥200 • Kon-dō Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥200 • 0736 56 3215, koyasan.or.jp

Kōya-san’s most sacred precinct, the Garan is a large sandy compound, filled with cryptomeria trees, lanterns and wooden halls wreathed in incense. It is the spot where Kōbō Daishi’s three-pronged vajra landed and where he founded his original monastery.

The Garan’s most important building is the monumental Konpon Daitō (根本大塔), the Fundamental Great Stupa, which is covered in strident, orange lacquer. The original stupa was established in 816, but the current building dates from the 1930s. A statue of the Dainichi Nyorai (Cosmic Buddha) and images of four Buddhist deities are enshrined inside. The more restrained Kon-dō (金堂), also rebuilt (for the seventh time) in the 1930s, marks the spot in the Garan where Kūkai gave his first lectures. Buddhist services are still held here today, and the Yakushi Nyorai, or Buddha of Medicine, is enshrined inside. Kūkai reputedly lived where the Miei-dō (御影堂) now stands, just to the west, which is regarded as one of the mountain’s most holy places. Note the sacred pine in front, said to be offspring of the tree in which Kūkai’s vajra (ritual implement) landed; unusually, the leaves of this type of pine tree, the sanko-no-matsu, have three needles rather than two (resembling the three-pronged vajra), and you may see people collecting fallen needles as a good-luck charm.

Dai-mon

大門

The main road in front of the Garan eventually leads west to the Dai-mon, or Great Gate, which was Kōya-san’s main entrance until the ropeway was built in the 1930s. The huge, rust-red gate sits on the mountain’s western edge, where on a clear day you can see right out to sea.

Reihōkan

霊宝館 • Daily: May–Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–April 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥600 • 0736 56 2029, reihokan.or.jp/en/index.html

Kōya-san’s greatest treasures are in the Reihōkan, which contains a number of priceless works of esoteric Buddhist art, including Heian- and Kamakura-period wooden sculptures. Displays are changed every few months. If you’re lucky, you might get to see a triptych of Amida welcoming souls to the Western Paradise, painted in 965, or a Heian-era silk painting of Buddha entering nirvana; due to their fragile nature, they are only on display every three years.

Okunoin

奥の院

About 1km east of Kōya-san’s central crossroads lies the vast forest cemetery of Okunoin. Stretching from Ichi-no-hashi bridge to the cemetery’s spiritual centre, Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum, a 2km-long forest path winds through more than 200,000 stone stupas of all shapes and sizes. A large number of historical characters are buried here, among them the great general Oda Nobunaga. You’ll also find numerous jizō statues and the occasional war memorial. It’s best to walk through Okunoin in the early morning or around dusk, when lamps light up the path; at these times, the only other people you’re likely to meet are the occasional white-garbed pilgrims with their tinkling bells.

Kōbō Daishi mausoleum

Once across the Gobo-no-hashi bridge, the approach to the mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi begins. First comes the Hall of Lanterns, where ten thousand oil lamps donated by the faithful are kept constantly alight. Two of them are said to have been burning since the eleventh century, one donated by the former Emperor Shirakawa and another by an anonymous poor woman. After this blaze of light and colour, the tomb itself is surprisingly restrained; indeed, it’s only just visible within a gated enclosure behind the hall, sheltered by lofty cryptomeria trees and clouds of incense.

According to Shingon tradition, the Great Master, Daishi, did not die in 835 but rather entered “eternal meditation”; monks continue to leave him two meals a day outside the mausoleum’s gate. He’s now waiting to return as Miroku, the Future Buddha, when he will help lead the faithful to salvation – which is one reason why so many Japanese wish to have their ashes buried on Kōya-san. Next to the Daishi’s tomb you’ll see the octagonal ossuary where ashes are collected.

KŌYA-SAN FESTIVALS

Kōya-san’s biggest festival takes place on March 21, the anniversary of Kōbō Daishi’s entrance into eternal meditation, when all the monks gather for a service (at 1pm) at the Miei-dō in the Garan, which is fully opened to the public, and worshippers make flower and candle offerings. Everyone’s out in force again for the street parade on Kōbō Daishi’s birthday (June 15), while during Obon several thousand lanterns light the route through Okunoin cemetery as part of Japan’s festival for the dead (Aug 13).

A VICTORIAN LADY ON KŌYA-SAN

Elizabeth Anna Gordon was a Victorian aristocrat and religious scholar who not only made an important contribution to the western study of Buddhism but is one of the few foreigners to be buried in Okunoin. Born in 1851, she was a lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria and an Oxford University graduate with a strong interest in Japan. She was responsible for erecting a replica of the Nestorian Monument, a kind of Rosetta Stone of world religions discovered in China in around 1625, on Kōya-san in 1911. For Gordon, the monument was a symbol of the common roots of Buddhism and Christianity. Her activities on the mountain are remarkable for the time – women were banned until 1868, but only really began visiting in the early twentieth century. The monks welcomed this intrepid woman and the monument as a means of promoting Kōya-san around the world. Gordon died in a Kyoto hotel in 1925 and her grave is on the right side of the Nestorian Monument, close to the Ichi-no-hashi entrance to Okunoin.

The modern cemetery

Okunoin’s modern cemetery lies south of the Gobyo-no-hashi bridge on a short cut back to the main road. It contrasts sharply with the atmospheric and ancient forested area leading up to Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum. Here, large companies maintain plots for past employees with some unusual memorials – the space rocket and coffee cup are two that stand out, along with a memorial from a pest-control company to all the termites they’ve exterminated. Also note the “letter boxes” on some monuments for company employees to leave their meishi (business cards). The cemetery ends at Okunoin-mae, on the main road beside a clutch of restaurants and a bus park.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KŌYA-SAN

By train Direct express and limited express trains from Osaka’s Namba Station make the 50km journey south on the private Nankai Kōya line to Gokurakubashi Station (every 20–30min; 1hr 20min–1hr 40min; from ¥1260), where they connect with the ropeway to Kōya-san Station (price included in the ticket); note that reservations are required on the limited express. From Nara and Kyoto, you can either travel via Osaka or use the JR network as far as Shin-Imamiya (新今宮) or Hashimoto (橋本) and then change onto the Nankai Kōya line.

Destinations Hashimoto (every 20–30min; 35–50min); Osaka (every 20–30min; 1hr 20min–1hr 40min).

By ropeway Most visitors access Kōya-san via a ropeway (cable-car), which departs from Gokurakubashi Station (極楽橋駅), arriving at Kōya-san Station 5min later. Nankai trains usually arrive in time for ropeway departures, and the price is included in the train ticket.

By bus If you are travelling on from Kōya-san to Kumano Kodō, there are buses during the main tourist season (April–Nov) to the Kumano Hongū Taisha (¥5000); check the Tourism Bureau website ( tb-kumano.jp/en/transport) for the latest information.

GETTING AROUND

By bus At Kōya-san Station, at the top ropeway station, you’ll find buses waiting for the 10min ride into town (every 20–30min; ¥290). All buses stop at the central Senjuin-bashi crossroads (千手院橋), where the routes then divide, with the majority of services running east to Okunoin and fewer heading past Kongōbu-ji to the western gate, Dia-mon.

On foot Kōya-san’s major sights are within walking distance of each other, and it’s most pleasant to explore on foot.

By taxi Taxis wait outside the ropeway station, or call Kōya-san Taxi ( 0736 56 2628).

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information The Kōya-san Tourist Association office (daily 8.30am–5pm; 0736 56 2616) is beside the Senjuin-bashi junction. You can book temple accommodation here, or in advance through their English website ( eng.shukubo.net). The Kōya-san Visitor Information Center (10am–4pm, closed Tues & Thurs; 0736 56 2270, koyasan-ccn.com) near Kongōbu-ji also has helpful staff and free internet access. They also offer a free interpreter service if you get stuck ( 090 1486 2588 or 090 3263 5184).

Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau

KUMANO HONGŪ TAISHA

STAYING IN A SHUKUBŌ

Shukubō are primarily places of worship, so you’ll be asked to keep to fairly strict meal and bath times, and you shouldn’t expect hotel-style service. Guests are usually welcome to attend the early-morning prayers (around 6am), and meditation sessions and/or Buddhist sutra writing are often on offer the afternoon of your arrival. At some temples, this also includes a goma fire ceremony – the burning of 108 pieces of wood, which are said to represent the number of “defilements” that need to be overcome in order to gain enlightenment. All shukubō offer excellent Buddhist vegetarian meals (shōjin-ryōri), which consist of seasonal vegetable and tofu-based dishes cooked without meat, fish, onion or garlic seasoning. Due to the number of foreign tourists making the journey to Kōya-san, there is usually someone at the temples who can speak English. It’s a good idea to make reservations well in advance, either through the Kōya-san Tourist Association or by approaching the temples directly

Tourist pass The Kōya-san World Heritage Ticket (¥3440, ¥4220 for limited express train on the outbound journey) is valid for two days and covers a return trip from Namba to Kōya-san, unlimited bus travel around the mountain top (including from and to the ropeway station), and a twenty-percent discount on admission to Kongōbu-ji, Kon-dō, Konpon Daitō and Reihōkan.

Tours The tourist office offers the Kōya-san Audio Guide (daily 8.30am–4.30pm; ¥500), which has a commentary in English of Kōya-san’s places of interest, corresponding to numbered sites throughout the town. A better way to learn the stories and the secrets of this sacred site is with the Kōya-san Interpreter Guide Club ( 0736 56 2270, mail@koyasan-ccn.com), whose walking tours (from ¥1500) include Okunoin, as well as Kongōbu-ji and the Garan; reservations must be made at least a day in advance. You can also do night tours of Okunoin with a local English-speaking monk as your guide, which is a great way to soak up the spiritual atmosphere ( 090 2106 1146, www.night.koyasan-okunoin.com). The 1hr tour (¥2500) starts at the Eko-in shukubō at 7.15pm; call in the afternoon of the day you want to join the tour to check if it’s running.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

More than fifty monasteries on Kōya-san offer accommodation in shukubō – temple lodgings run by monks, and occasionally also by nuns. The rooms are all Japanese-style and usually look out over beautiful gardens or are decorated with painted screens or antique hanging scrolls; most have communal washing facilities. In recent years, some of the temples have upgraded rooms to include private bathing facilities, Western-style toilets, mini-refrigerators, TVs and internet connections. Note that accommodation is very hard to find during Kōya-san’s festivals, so if you plan to visit during any of these, book well in advance. Prices for temple accommodation quoted here are for two people and include dinner and breakfast.

Ekō-in 惠光院 0736 56 2514, ekoin.jp/en. This friendly temple has simple but comfortable tatami-mat rooms overlooking a peaceful garden. There’s also a meditation hall for pre-dinner sessions (non-guests are welcome, but will need to pay ¥500), as well as a goma-taki fire ceremony at dawn, which anyone can attend. Internet available. ¥28,000

Fukuchi-in 福智院 0736 56 2021, fukuchiin.com/en. This temple is famous for its modern dry landscape garden by Mirei Shigemori, who controversially used concrete and avant-garde shapes in the design – even if you’re not staying here, it’s worth visiting. Fukuchi-in also has Kōya-san’s only onsen hot-spring bath. ¥24,000

Guesthouse Kokuu ゲストハウスコクウ 0736 26 7216, koyasanguesthouse.com. This popular guesthouse is in an impressively designed modern building, and run by an English-speaking young couple. The space is compact (rather than dorms they have capsules) but very light and airy. In winter, there’s a cosy wood stove. Capsules ¥3500, doubles ¥9000

Hongaku-in 本覚院 0736 56 2711, hongakuin.jp. One of the nicest temples to stay in Kōya-san, with a quiet atmosphere and some interesting Buddhist art; they also serve excellent shōjin-ryōri. The prayer hall has been attractively restored, and the morning prayer service is welcoming and inclusive – listen out for your name. ¥27,550

Ichijō-in 一乗院 0736 56 2214, itijyoin.or.jp. Elegant and modern temple lodgings; all rooms have internet connection and TV and some have en-suite facilities. The shōjin-ryōri meals here are especially good. ¥32,000

Jimyō-in 持明院 0736 56 2222, www.koyasan-jimyoin.com. This peaceful temple is surrounded by a large garden and several of the rooms have nice views. It’s not as swish as some of the other temples, but the monks are friendly and welcoming. ¥23,300

Muryōkō-in 無量光院 0736 56 2104, muryokoin.org. This large, rambling temple is known for its international atmosphere – a few of the monks and nuns are foreigners. The rooms are spacious and have the basic comforts. The morning service here, including a fire ceremony, is well worth rising at dawn for. ¥24,000

Nan-in 南院 0736 56 2534, sea.sannet.ne.jp/namikiri-nanin. This stately temple is adjacent to the Tokugawa Mausoleum, northwest of the Senjuin-bashi junction, and has a friendly atmosphere. The rooms are decorated with historic artworks and the bathing facilities are clean and modern. ¥26,400

EATING MAP

Bon On Shya 梵恩舎 0736 56 5535. Welcoming café and art gallery run by a young Japanese and French couple, serving organic vegetarian lunch sets (¥1200), as well as delicious cake and coffee sets (¥550). It’s east of the Senjuin-bashi intersection. Wed–Sun 6.30am–5.30pm.

Miyasan みやさん 0736 56 2827. Just south of Senjuin-bashi, this cheap and friendly izakaya serves up fried chicken (¥700), curry udon (¥650) and the like, washed down with locally distilled plum wine. Tues–Sat 5–10pm.

Shinsei Café 心星カフェ 0736 26 7160. Friendly café with Kōya-san’s first espresso machine, making cappuccino and lattes to a backdrop of Italian opera. They also serve breakfast sets of toast (¥500) and sandwiches (¥750). 8am–9pm; closed Wed.

Kumano Kodō

熊野古道

Set among the isolated mountain ranges of the Kii Peninsula (紀伊半島), in southern Wakayama prefecture, southeast of Osaka, is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes known as the Kumano Kodō. In 2004, Kumano Kodō, literally the “Kumano Ancient Road”, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. An area of stunning natural beauty – old-growth forests, mountain tea fields, magnificent waterfalls and healing hot springs – it is also the spiritual heartland of Japanese mythology and religion, and unique for its synthesis of Shintōism and Buddhism, in which indigenous Japanese deities were accepted as manifestations of Buddhist deities. This is where the mountain-worshipping Buddhist-Shintō practice of Shugendō evolved and is still active today. The Kumano Kodō is a special place to visit, both for its serene natural beauty and its ancient spiritual atmosphere. Despite its remoteness from modern, hi-tech Japan, it is an incredibly friendly place, with good transport and accommodation that caters well to international visitors.

Brief history

Though mentioned in the eighth-century Kojiki historical record as the “Land of the Dead”, where the spirits of the gods reside, Kumano Kodō became popular from the tenth century mainly through imperial pilgrimages by retired emperors and aristocrats, who made the trek from Kyoto to worship at the Kumano Sanzan (熊野三山), a set of three important Grand Shrines – Kumano Hongū Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha – and to perform rites of purification in the surrounding rivers and waterfalls. The working classes were also attracted to worshipping here, so by the fourteenth century, pilgrims from all over the country had forged routes here from other parts of the county. Unlike Kōya-san, some 70km away, female pilgrims have always been welcomed in Kumano.

Another reason for the historical popularity and significance of the Kumano Kodō is the number of excellent hot springs, many in remote villages, which since ancient times have been known for their healing and restorative powers. The area boasts Japan’s only hot spring to be recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the 1800-year-old Tsuboyu at Yunomine Onsen.

Kumano Hongū Taisha

熊野本宮大社 • Hongū shrine Daily 8.30am–5pm • Free • Treasure Hall Daily 10am–4pm • ¥300 • 0735 42 0735, hongutaisha.jp/English • Bus (2hr from Tanabe: ¥2060)

THE NAKAHECHI PILGRIMAGE ROUTE

The Kumano Kodō is actually a rubric for the network of four pilgrimage routes: the Nakahechi route; the mountainous Kohechi route; the coastal Ohechi route; and the eastern Iseji route. The Kohechi and Iseji routes link up Kumano with Kōya-san and Ise-jingū, respectively. Detailed information on all the routes, as well as suggested itineraries, are available in English from the tourist office.

The Nakahechi is the most popular route to the Grand Shrines. Beginning in Tanabe, it traverses the mountains eastwards towards Hongū, where it splits into a river route to Shingū and a mountain route to Nachi. The Nakahechi passes through some remote villages but has excellent accommodation facilities for multi-day walks. This route has many oji, small roadside shrines for worshipping various deities, hence many of the villages are named accordingly. Most pilgrims take a bus from Kii-Tanabe station to Takijiri-oji, a major trailhead, and walk to Chikatsuyu (6–7hr) on the first day, stopping at Takahara Kumano-jinja to see the wonderful vista of clouds and mountains. The second full-day walk leads to Hongū and its onsen. Many pilgrims continue on the trail for another few days, also taking in Kumano Nachi Taisha and its amazing waterfall, before arriving at the final destination in Shingū.

It is also possible to use a combination of buses and selected trail walks to experience the Nakahechi route – either way, it takes in some of the most tranquil natural scenes in western Japan, and is a great way to visit the Kumano Sanzan Grand Shrines. Remember that this is a mountainous area and the weather can change quickly – be prepared for fluctuating temperatures.

The four pilgrimage routes converge at the stately Kumano Hongū Taisha, making it both the geographical and sacred centre of the Kumano Kodō. The most important of the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, it’s similar in style to the architecture of Ise-jingū – note the thatched roofs and decorated gables. The shrine was moved to its current, and slightly more elevated, location after a massive flood in 1889 almost completely destroyed it at nearby Oyunohara, a sandbank on the Kumano-gawa, and where a gigantic torii now stands. Look out for the yatagarasu black crow symbol at the shrine – the sacred three-legged bird is believed to be both a heavenly messenger and a supernatural guide. Among the many pilgrims who visit the shrine are the Japanese national football team, who use the yatagarasu symbol as part of their official emblem.

Kumano Hongū Heritage Center

世界遺産熊野本宮館, Sekai Isan Kumano Hongū-kan • Hongū • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 0735 42 0751, city.tanabe.lg.jp/hongukan/en • Bus (2hr from Tanabe: ¥2060)

Just across the road from the entrance to the Kumano Hongū Taisha, the Kumano Hongū Heritage Center is a large modern building where you can learn more about the history, culture and religion of the area, and also see photos and models of the shrine before the 1889 flood.

Nachi-Katsuura

Nachi-Katsuura marks the confluence of the Nakahechi and Ohechi pilgrimage routes. The sacred mountain of Nachisan, with its Grand Shrine and ancient Buddhist temple, is just a few kilometres inland from the fishing port of Katsuura.

Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji

熊野那智大社 • 青岸渡寺 • Nachisan • Kumano Nachi Taisha Daily 8am–4pm • Free; Treasure House ¥300 • 0735 55 0321, www.kumanonachitaisha.or.jp • Seiganto-ji Daily 8.30am–4pm • Free; Pavilion ¥300 • 0735 55 0401 • Bus from JR Kii-Katsuura Station (30min; ¥620)

Just outside the town of Nachi-Katsuura is the Grand Shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha and the adjacent Buddhist temple of Seiganto-ji. Perched on the side of Nachisan mountain, they are fine examples of the interconnectivity of Shintō and Buddhist faiths in the Kumano region, and attract large numbers of pilgrims.

Nachi-no-Ōtaki

那智の大滝 • Nachisan • Daily 7am–4.30pm • Free; viewing platform ¥300 • 0735 55 0321 • Bus from JR Kii-Katsuura Station (30min; ¥620)

An important place of nature worship for Shugendō followers, Nachi-no-Ōtaki is said to be the tallest waterfall in Japan. The water comes pounding out of a primeval forest and spectacularly drops 133m into the valley. If you don’t have time to trek down to the waterfall, you can still enjoy the superb view from Seiganto-ji.

Daimonzaka-chaya

大門坂茶屋 • Nachisan • Daily 9am–4pm; reservations necessary during high season • Kimono rental ¥2000/1hr, ¥3000/2hr • 0735 55 0244, nachikan.jp • Bus from JR Kii-Katsuura Station (30min; ¥420)

If you’ve wondered what it felt like to walk the Kumano Kodō in Heian times, the Daimonzaka-chaya costume rental shop is a great place to find out. Here, you can dress up in a ninth-century-style kimono, zori shoes and veiled headwear, and wander a little way along the Daimon-zaka – a cobblestone staircase set among towering ancient trees that’s part of the pilgrimage route up to Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji. Female and male costumes are available, as well as children’s.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KUMANO KODŌ

By train The main access point for the Kumano Kodō is the city of Tanabe (田辺); its JR station is Kii-Tanabe (紀伊田辺). Express train services run here from Shin-Osaka (15 daily; 2hr 15min). From eastern Japan, trains from Nagoya (4 daily; 3hr 30min) go to Shingū (新宮). Otherwise, you can get a train from Kōya-san, changing at Hashimoto for services towards Wakayama city (hourly; 1hr 5min) and on to Tanabe (hourly; 1hr 10min).

By bus JR Nishi-Nihon and Meiko buses run from Osaka to Tanabe (10 daily; ¥2980) and from Kyoto to Tanabe (2 daily; ¥3910). In the main tourist season (April–Nov), buses run between Kōya-san and the Kumano Hongū Taisha (¥5000); check the Tourism Bureau website ( tb-kumano.jp/en/transport/bus) for the latest information.

Tourist information The Tanabe Tourist Information Center (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; 0739 26 9025, tb-kumano.jp/en), next to JR Kii-Tanabe Station, is an excellent place to pick up English-language pamphlets and maps of the ancient routes. Their website is also the best source for up-to-date information on the Kumano Kodō, translated into English, including transport timetables and an accommodation reservation system (bookings must be made more than 7 days in advance and take 3 days to process). There are also visitor information centres at Takijiri-oji, the spiritual entrance to the sacred Kumano mountains, and at the Kumano Hongū Heritage Center, near Kumano Hongū Taisha.

KUMANO’S ONSEN

The Kumano region is blessed with some of western Japan’s best onsen towns, which can be easily visited while walking the Kumano Kodō.

Kawayu Onsen 川湯温泉 In winter, the river at this onsen town near Hongū is transformed into a piping-hot giant outdoor bath called the Sennin-buro (仙人風呂), literally a bath for one thousand people (Dec–Feb daily 6.30am–10pm; free). Given its very public, outdoor location, it’s one of the few hot springs where swimwear is acceptable. It’s also fine to dig your own spring in the river.

Ryūjin Onsen 龍神温泉 Slightly outside Hongū, in a remote mountain area, Ryūjin Onsen is worth considering for a visit if you are travelling from Kōya-san towards Hongū. Its waters are well known for their beautifying effects on the skin, and the views from the various onsen’s outdoor baths in spring and autumn are sublime.

Wataze Onsen 渡瀬温泉 The main claim to fame of this onsen resort near Hongū is having the largest rotemburo (outdoor bath) in western Japan (daily 6am–9.30pm; ¥700). It may not be as historic as the other two onsen in Hongū, but its garden setting is just as picturesque.

Yunomine Onsen 湯の峰温泉 In this 1800-year-old onsen town near Hongū, the main attraction is Tsuboyu (つぼ湯) – the only hot spring in Japan to be registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (daily 6am–9.30pm; ¥770). A small cloudy-coloured spring, built out of the narrow stream that runs through the town, Tsuboyu is covered by a wooden cabin that you can use privately for thirty minutes.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Pilgrims are usually intent on walking the Kumano Kodō, but there is also a good network of fairly regular bus services, depending on the season, which connect the main sights of the pilgrim routes and the surrounding areas; see the Tourism Bureau website ( tb-kumano.jp/en/transport/bus) for route details and timetables.

ACCOMMODATION

Along the Kumano Kodō, there is a range of good-quality accommodation options for all budgets. Many ryokan or minshuku have their own onsen, or are close to one, and most places can provide dinner and breakfast, as well as a boxed lunch to take on the trail the next day. All the accommodation listed below can be booked through the Kumano Tourism Bureau reservation system ( www.kumano-travel.com/en); unless otherwise noted, prices include breakfast and an evening meal.

TANABE

Altier アルティエホテル Tanabe 0739 81 1111, altierhotel.com. If you are starting your journey in Tanabe, this comfortable business hotel near the station, with free breakfast and internet, is a good choice. ¥10,000

Konyamachiya Townhouse 紺屋町家 Tanabe 0739 26 9025, kumano-travel.com. This nicely restored townhouse in Tanabe city sleeps up to six guests, and it’s a lovely place to experience living in a traditional Japanese house. It’s fully equipped and also has a washing machine. Check-in is at the Kumano Travel Support Center near Kii-Tanabe Station. Self-catering ¥11,880

THE NAKAHECHI ROUTE

Kiri no Sato Takahara 霧の郷たかはら Takahara 0739 64 1900, kirinosato-takahara.com/en. Friendly mountain lodge in Takahara village on the Nakahechi route. The comfortable Japanese- and Western-style rooms (with toilets) have stunning views looking directly out over the valley, though bathing facilities are shared. ¥20,000

Minshuku Chikatsuyu 民宿ちかつゆ Chikatsuyu 0739 65 0617. This minshuku on the Nakahechi route has comfortable private and shared tatami rooms, as well as its own onsen with water as smooth as silk. ¥19,800

HONGŪ AND AROUND

Blue Sky Guesthouse 蒼空げすとはうす Hongū 0735 42 0800, kumano-guesthouse.com. A spacious modern building in a pleasant natural setting, this guesthouse has tatami rooms and excellent facilities. There’s a friendly and international atmosphere, and breakfast is included in the price. ¥13,800

Kamigoten Ryokan 上御殿 Ryūjin Onsen 0739 79 0005, kamigoten.jp. High-class ryokan at Ryūjin Onsen in an exquisite Edo-period building, serving multi-course dinners of hearty mountain cuisine. The onsen facilities are modern, with superb river valley views. ¥28,000

Minshuku Ōmuraya 民宿大村屋 Kawayu Onsen 0735 42 1066, oomuraya.net. At Kawayu Onsen, near Hongū, this family-run inn is steps away from the Sennin-buro river bath, and offers delicious evening meals, as well as a hearty breakfast. The clean and spacious tatami rooms all have their own WC. ¥17,600

Yoshinoya よしのや Yunomine 0735 42 0101, yunomine.com. This friendly inn, right on the narrow stream near the ancient Tsuboyu hot spring, has clean and comfortable tatami rooms, its own pleasant outdoor bath, and meals featuring delicious local cuisine. ¥20,000

EATING

TANABE

Kanteki かんてき Tanabe 0739 26 1081. Friendly, and sometimes raucous, izakaya in the Ajikokoji area near the station, with a fantastic menu of local fish (including eel) and seafood dishes, plus ume-shu (plum wine). For around ¥3500, you can feast like a king. 5–11pm; closed Wed.

Shinbe しんべ Tanabe 0739 24 8845, jpcenter.co.jp/shinbe. Another great restaurant in the aptly named Ajikoji (“Flavour Alley”) area, Shinbe serves delicious sashimi, sushi and fish dishes at very reasonable prices – top-quality sashimi platters are just ¥1850. The cheery chef will happily make recommendations from the menu for the best of the season. Mon–Sat 5–10.30pm.

THE NAKAHECHI ROUTE

Bocu 朴 Chikatsuyu 0739 65 0694, facebook.com/cafebocu. Macrobiotic restaurant and bakery in a charming old farmhouse on the Nakahechi route. Delicious lunch sets, made with vegetables grown in the neighbouring field, are ¥1600. Wed–Sat 11am–4pm.

HONGŪ

Kumano.co Shokudo 熊の子食堂 Hongu 0735-30-0878, kumanocoshokudo.com. Just a minute’s walk from the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, this tasteful restaurant specializes in local dishes using local ingredients, including amago fish from the Kumano river, deer from the surrounding woods and eggs from their own chickens. Also serves local craft beers. 11am–10pm, closed Tues.

NACHI-KATSUURA

Bodai 母大 Nachi-Katsuura 0735 52 0039. Stylish restaurant directly opposite Kii-Katsuura Station, serving super-fresh maguro tuna dishes. The maguro chūtoro katsu teishoku lunch set (¥1400), with tuna pieces delicately fried in breadcrumbs, is highly recommended. 11am–2pm & 5–10.30pm; closed Tues.

IGA-UENO’S NINJA HERITAGE

During Japan’s warring states period in the fifteenth century, bands of mercenaries with advanced martial arts skills emerged, who were used by the ruling classes as spies and assassins. Excelling at espionage and possessing extraordinary abilities, the mercenaries – known as shinobii (though outside Japan they are mostly known as “ninja”) – developed the art of ninjutsu, or stealth warfare. Two tribes of mercenaries dominated: the Koga of Shiga Prefecture, and the Iga of Mie Prefecture. Much of what is known about them today is based on myth and legends, but you can get a sense of their shadow world at Iga-Ueno’s excellent Ninja Museum (伊賀流忍者博物館; Igaryū Ninja Hakubtsukan; 117-13-1 Ueno Marunouchi; daily 9am–4.30pm; 0595 23 0311, iganinja.jp). The exciting one-hour tour (¥800) here begins in a typical ninja house fitted with traps and hiding places, and includes demonstrations of the building’s many tricks, including revolving doors and walls. After the tour, an interesting exhibition (with lots of ninja weaponry on display) details how the castle next door, Iga-Ueno-jō, was infiltrated using ninjutsu techniques. There’s also a ninja show (¥500), which uses real weapons, as well as more fascinating displays in the gift shop.

It’s possible to visit Iga-Ueno (伊賀上野) on the way from Osaka or Kyoto to Shima Hantō – see the local tourism association website for more information ( iga-travel.jp).

Shima Hantō

志摩半島

East of the Kii Hantō mountain ranges, on the far side of the Kii Peninsula, a small knuckle of land sticks out into the ocean. Known as Shima Hantō, this peninsula has been designated a national park, partly for its natural beauty but also because it contains Japan’s spiritual heartland, Ise-jingū. Since the fourth century, the Grand Shrine of Ise, on the edge of Ise town, has been venerated as the terrestrial home of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu, from whom it was once believed all Japanese emperors were descended. Beyond Ise is pearl country. The world-famous Mikimoto company started up in Toba when an enterprising restaurant owner discovered the art of cultivating pearls, and now there’s a whole island dedicated to his memory, Mikimoto Pearl Island. Today, most of the pearls are raised further east in Ago-wan, where hundreds of rafts are tethered in a beautiful, island-speckled bay. The Ama women divers of the peninsula have been diving for seafood, and pearls, for centuries, and it’s possible to meet them at Osatsu and hear their stories of the sea.

Ise

伊勢

The town of ISE wears its sanctity lightly, and many visitors find it a disappointingly ordinary place. However, the main reason to come here is to visit the two sanctuaries of Japan’s most sacred Shintō shrine, Ise-jingū; even non-Japanese visitors will appreciate the spiritual atmosphere of these simple buildings, with their unusual architecture, deep in the cedar forests.

Ise-jingū

伊勢神宮 • 0596 24 1111, isejingu.or.jp

The two sacred sanctuaries of Ise-jingū are in separate locations near the town of Ise. The Naikū, or inner shrine, is some 6km to the southeast of town, while the southwestern quarter of Ise is taken up by a large expanse of woodland (which accounts for a full third of the town’s area), in the midst of which lies the Gekū, or outer shrine. The two shrines follow roughly the same layout, so if you’re pushed for time, head straight for the more interesting Naikū.

Naikū

内宮 • 1 Ujitachi-chō • Sunrise–sunset • Free • Take bus #51 or #55 from JR Ise-shi Station, Kintetsu Uji-Yamada Station, or from the stop outside the Gekū (every 10–15min; ¥410)

The Kotai-jingu, more commonly known as Naikū, Ise-jingū’s inner shrine, is Japan’s most sacred shrine and was established sometime in the fourth century. Dedicated to Amaterasu Ōmikami, the ancestress of the imperial family, the shrine houses a mirror that Amaterasu gave her grandson Ninigi-no-Mikoto when she sent him to rule Japan. At first, the mirror was stored in the Imperial Palace, along with the sacred sword and beads (these are now held in Nagoya’s Atsuta-jingū and Tokyo’s Imperial Palace), but the goddess gave instructions to move her mirror to somewhere more remote. Eventually, they settled on a wooded spot beside Ise’s Isuzu-gawa, which has been the mirror’s home ever since.

THE REBIRTH OF NAIKŪ AND GEKŪ

According to custom, both the Naikū (inner shrine) and Gekū (outer shrine) are rebuilt every twenty years in order to re-purify the ground. Each is an exact replica of its predecessor, following a unique style of architecture that has been passed down over the centuries and is free of any of the Chinese or Korean influences usually found in Buddhist architecture. Only plain hinoki (Japanese cypress) and grass thatch are used, plus a few gold embellishments. When the buildings are dismantled, the old timbers are passed on to other shrines around the country to be recycled. The next rebuilding will be in 2033.

After crossing the Uji-bashi, turn right and walk through a small, formal garden to reach the purification fountain just in front of the first sacred torii. A little further on, the path goes down to the river where, traditionally, pilgrims would purify themselves. The path loops round to approach the inner sanctum from the south. The main building is contained within four increasingly sacred enclosures, with the inner sanctum the furthest from view, making it difficult to see the details – only members of the imperial family and head priests can enter this last sanctum, where Amaterasu’s sacred mirror is enshrined. It’s wrapped in layers of cloth and, according to the records, no one has laid eyes on it for more than a thousand years.

Gekū

外宮• Toyokawa-machi • Sunrise–sunset • Free • A 10min walk from from JR Ise-shi and Kintetsu Uji-Yamada stations, or buses #55 or #51 from the Naikū (every 10–15min; ¥410) will drop you at the bus stop on the main road opposite the Gekū’s main entrance

The Toyo’uke-dai-jingu, or Gekū (the outer shrine), is located close to the southern edge of the modern business district of Ise city, and is much smaller, with fewer crowds, than Naikū. Its entrance lies over a small humped bridge and along a gravel path leading into the woods. It was constructed in the fifth century to honour the goddess Toyo’uke-no-Ōmikami, who was sent by Amaterasu to look after the all-important rice harvests. Another of her duties is to provide Amaterasu with sacred food, so twice a day priests make offerings to Toyo’uke in a small hall at the back of the compound. Having paid their respects to Toyo’uke by bowing deeply twice, clapping and bowing deeply a third time, most people hurry off to visit the Naikū.

Oharai-machi

おはらい町

Not far from the entrance to the Naikū, the pedestrianized shopping street of Oharai-machi sits on the exact site of the town’s late Edo- and early Meiji-era merchants’ quarter, and the buildings here are authentic reproductions of those that existed in that time. Despite being rather touristy, it’s one of the nicest streetscapes in western Japan to stroll around, and there are also some decent places to eat local cuisine.

Okageza History Museum

おかげ座 • 52 Ujinakanokiri-chō • Daily 10am–4.30pm • ¥400 • 0596 23 8844

Just off Oharai-machi, Okage-Yokochō (おかげ横町) square is home to more replica Edo- and Meiji-era buildings, including the quaint Okageza History Museum. The museum re-creates the encounters between pilgrims and the people of Ise during the Edo period, using scale models and recordings of Edo-period stories and street sounds (in Japanese). On entering the museum, you’ll be given a short introduction by the staff in Japanese, but after that you’re free to wander unaccompanied, and an English-language pamphlet is provided that adequately explains the exhibits.

ISE-JINGŪ EVENTS AND CEREMONIES

Ise-jingū is a top choice for the first shrine visit of the New Year (hatsu-mōde) on January 1. This is followed by more than 1500 annual ceremonies in honour of Ise’s gods. The most important of these revolve around the agricultural cycle, culminating in offerings of sacred rice (Oct 15–25). In spring (April 5–6) and during the autumn equinox (Sept 22 or 23), ancient Shintō dances and a moon-viewing party take place at Naikū.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND ISE

By train Regular trains run to Ise from Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka: in all cases, the private Kintetsu network offers the quickest and most convenient service. There are two stations in central Ise, with the more easterly, Uji-Yamada Station, being Kintetsu’s main station. However, some Kintetsu trains also stop at Ise-shi Station, which is shared with JR. From Nagoya, the fastest option is an express on the Kintetsu-Ise line to Uji-Yamada Station (hourly; 1hr 25min; ¥2810). If you’ve got a JR Pass, you can use JR’s limited express trains direct from Nagoya to Ise-shi (hourly; 1hr 30min), though you have to pay a small supplement (¥490) for travelling on a section of Kintetsu track. Kintetsu also runs direct trains from Osaka’s Namba and Tsuruhashi stations (every 15min; 1hr 45min; ¥3170) and from Kyoto (hourly; 2hr; ¥4740).

Destinations Futaminoura (every 30min; 5min); Kashikojima (every 30min; 45min); Kyoto (hourly; 2hr); Nagoya (every 20–30min; 1hr 25min–1hr 35min); Osaka (every 15min; 1hr 45min); Toba (every 15min; 15–20min).

By bus Each train station has its own bus terminal, with regular departures for the two shrines; buses #51 and #55 run via Gekū to Naikū and then loop back round to the stations. The Toba Circular Bus, known as the CAN Bus, runs 8 times a day to Toba (1hr), passing both of the shrines en route.

By car Car rental is available through Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 0596 20 3319, nrgroup-global.com/en), at Uji-Yamada Station.

By bike Bike rental is available from Ise’s main tourist information office (see below), for ¥500/800 per half-day/day.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information Ise’s main tourist information office (daily 8.30am–5pm; 0596 23 3323, ise-kanko.jp/english) is located opposite the entrance to the Gekū, with smaller offices in Ise-Shi and Uji-Yamada stations (both daily 9am–5.30pm). All offices have English-speaking staff, who can help arrange accommodation throughout the Shima Hantō area.

Tours Tours of both Ise-jingu sanctuaries with English-speaking guides can be arranged in advance through the tourist office ( ise-kanko.jp/main/info/guide).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Ise’s speciality foods include lobster (Ise-ebi) and the rather salty Ise udon, which consists of thick, handmade noodles served in a thin soy sauce. Matsuzaka beef, marbled and fatty like its Kōbe cousin, is another local favourite. Oharai-machi , a pedestrianized shopping street, is a better, and more interesting, choice for lunch than the Gekū area.

Akafuku 赤福本店 26 Ujinakanokiri-chō 0596 22 7000, akafuku.co.jp. A 300-year-old sweet shop near the Shinbashi bridge on Oharai-machi, serving the local speciality – akafuku mochi, deliciously fresh pounded rice cakes covered with red bean paste (¥220 for two pieces including tea, or ¥490 with matcha). Daily 9am–5.30pm.

Daiki 大喜 2-1-48 Iwabuchi 0596 28 0281, ise.ne.jp/daiki. Touted as “Japan’s most famous restaurant”, Daiki has made its name catering to the Imperial family. It’s located in a traditional building near Uji-Yamada Station, and serves great bentō lunch sets (¥1000), as well as excellent-value kaiseki and Ise-ebi sets (both from ¥5000). Daily 11am–9pm.

Hoshidekan 星出館 2-15-2 Kawasaki 0596 28 2377, www.hoshidekan.jp. This eccentric, rambling old ryokan has tatami rooms centred around a garden, all with shared bath and toilet facilities. They serve macrobiotic food in their restaurant for breakfast (included in the price). ¥12,800

Ise City Hotel 伊勢シティホテル 1-11-31 Fukiage 0596 28 2111, greens.co.jp. Fairly bland business hotel with English-speaking staff, rather small rooms and an in-house steak restaurant, though it is conveniently located for Uji-Yamada Station at the Gekū. They have a slightly more expensive annexe just along the road towards the Kawasaki district. ¥8200

Ise Guesthouse Kazami 風見荘 1-6-36 Fukiage 0596 63 9170, ise-guesthouse.com. Ise’s original guesthouse, Kazami was completely rebuilt at the end of 2018 in attractive Japanese cedar and cypress, and is still the town’s best backpackers’ choice. Fresh, comfortable rooms – dorms and doubles with shared bathing facilities – are set around a central stewartia tree. There’s also a shared kitchen and bike rental (¥500/day). Dorms ¥3500, doubles ¥8000

Kura de Ramen 蔵でパスタ 1-10-39 Miyajiri 0596 63 8555, koujiya-ise.com/kura. This ramen restaurant specializes in hearty miso-based bowls of noodles, using the local Ise soybean miso, as well as Shinshu miso and Hokkaido miso, both made from rice; opt for Shinshu if you like yours spicy (from ¥720). Daily 11am–3pm & 6–10pm.

Okadaya 岡田屋 31 Ujimazaike-chō 0596 22 4554. Very popular Ise udon restaurant in the main part of Oharai-machi. Try it with eggs (¥550) or curry (¥750). Arrive early to avoid the long queues. 10.30am–5pm, closed Thurs.

Yamaguchi-ya 山口屋 1-1-18 Miyajiri 0596 28 3856, iseudon.jp. Very friendly Ise udon restaurant down a shopping street across from the JR station, serving excellent, tasty udon noodles (¥530), as well as soba (¥580) and a Matsuaka beef version (¥780). 10am–7pm, closed Thurs.

Toba and around

鳥羽

East of Ise, the ragged Shima Peninsula juts out into the Pacific Ocean. Most of this mountainous area belongs to the Ise-Shima National Park, whose largest settlement is the port of TOBA, home to the birthplace of cultured pearls, the famous Mikimoto Pearl Island. Although it’s sited on an attractive bay, Toba’s seafront is mostly a strip of car parks, ferry terminals and shopping arcades, behind which run the main road and train tracks. There is, however, a decent aquarium and an abundance of excellent seafood restaurants.

Mikimoto Pearl Island

ミキモト真珠島, Mikimoto Shinju-shima • Daily: Jan–Nov 8.30am–4pm; Dec 9am–3.30pm • ¥1500 • 0599 25 2028, mikimoto-pearl-museum.co.jp/eng • A 5min walk south of Toba’s train and bus stations

In 1893, Mikimoto Kokichi (1858–1954), the son of a Toba noodle-maker, produced the world’s first cultivated pearl using tools developed by a dentist friend. Just six years later, he opened his first shop in Tokyo’s fashionable Ginza shopping district, from where the Mikimoto empire spread worldwide. His life’s work is commemorated – and minutely detailed – on Mikimoto Pearl Island, a complex of shops, restaurants and exhibition rooms that is connected to the mainland by a short bridge. Devoted to the history and cultivation of pearls, the exhibitions are extremely well put together, with masses of information in English describing the whole process from seeding the oyster to grading and stringing the pearls. There’s also a section devoted to Mikimoto’s extraordinary pearl artworks and jewellery collection. The highlight of the visit is the ama women divers, who stoically come out every hour in all weathers to demonstrate their diving skills.

Toba Aquarium

鳥羽水族館, Toba Suizokukan • 3-3-6 Toba • Daily 9am–5pm; mid-July to Aug 8.30am–5.30pm • ¥2500 • 0599 25 2555, aquarium.co.jp

Right on Toba seafront, next to Mikimoto Pearl Island, the Toba Aquarium is one of only two places in the world to house a captive dugong. This large aquarium is divided into twelve zones and has finless porpoises and sea otters on display, as well as sea lions, walruses and penguins.

Meoto-iwa

夫婦岩 • 575 Futami-chō • Daily dawn–dusk • 15min walk northeast of JR Futami-no-ura Station

Between Ise and Toba, the coastal town of Futami (二見) is famous for its “wedded rocks”, the Meoto-iwa. Joined by a hefty, sacred rope, this pair of “male” and “female” rocks lies just offshore from the Okitama shrine. They’re revered as representations of Izanagi and Izanami, the two gods who created Japan, and it’s the done thing to see the sun rise between them – the best season to do this is from May to August. On a clear day, you can also see Mount Fuji in the distance from above the rocks.

Toba Sea Folk Museum

海の博物館, Umi no Hakubutsukan • Uramura-chō • Daily: mid-March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec to mid-March 9am–4.30pm • ¥800 • 0599 32 6006, umihaku.com • The museum is on the Pearl Road driveway; take the Sankou bus from the bus terminal in front of Toba Station (hourly; 35min; ¥560), and get off at the Umi-hakubutsukan-mae (海博物館前) stop, from where it’s a 10min walk down the hill

The excellent Toba Sea Folk Museum, located 10km south of Toba in Uramura, is housed in an award-winning wooden building overlooking the ocean. It features some informative 3-D exhibits on the historical relationship between the people of Toba and the sea, as well as a short film and some comprehensive displays providing more historical background on the ama women divers.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOBA

By train Kintetsu (¥300) and (less frequent) JR (¥240) trains both run east from Ise to Toba, whose stations, and bus terminal, are all located next door to each other in the centre of town.

Destinations Ise (every 15min; 15–20min); Kashikojima (every 30min; 30–40min); Kyoto (hourly; 2hr 20min); Nagoya (every 20–30min; 1hr 45min); Osaka (every 20–30min; 2hr).

By bus From Ise, the best option is the Toba Circular Bus, known as the CAN Bus (8 daily; 1hr), which departs from Uji-Yamada Station and stops at all the major sights and train stations between Ise and Toba, including the inner and outer shrines, and Mikimoto Pearl Island. One-day (¥1000) and two-day (¥1600) passes can be bought at major train stations, the Gekū tourist information office, Mikimoto Pearl Island and on the bus; both passes come with a book of coupons offering further discounts to attractions.

By ferry Isewan Ferry ( 0599 25 2880, isewanferry.co.jp) connects Toba with Irago, on the other side of Ise-wan in Aichi prefecture (8–13 daily; 55min; ¥1600).

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information There’s a very helpful tourist information office with English-speaking staff (daily 9am–5pm; 0599 28 0001) in the Toba Kintetsu Station. The entire station area is also a free wi-fi zone: tourist office staff can give you the password.

Tours The Kaito Yumin Club ( 0599 28 0001, oz-group.jp) is run by a friendly all-female crew who lead eco-tours in and around the Toba area. They offer food tours (¥2500), kayaking trips (¥5500) and fishing trips (¥15,000), as well as tours around ama villages (¥9000). Their office is next to the Kaigetsu Inn, a 3min walk from Toba Station.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Grand Blue グランブルー Ichibangai building, opposite Toba Station 0599 26 3129. Café specializing in “Tobarger” (Toba burgers), made with lobster, octopus and other seafood patties (¥800). It’s also a pleasant place to sit and look out onto the harbour. Daily 10am–5pm.

Kaigetsu Inn 海月 1-10-52 Toba 0596 26 2056, kaigetsu.co.jp/e. This friendly ryokan serves excellent gourmet meals and is the best place to stay in Toba in terms of convenience and value for money. The tatami rooms are spacious and comfortable. Rates include breakfast. ¥12,000

Men Dokoro Kippei メンドコロキッペイ Ichibangai building, opposite Toba Station 0599 26 2085. This small noodle restaurant does a hearty bowl of asari (shellfish) soba for ¥850, and also serves the local speciality, Ise udon (¥750). Daily 10am–5pm.

Nagatokan 長門館 1-10-45 Toba 0599 25 2006, nagatokan.co.jp. Popular seafood restaurant whose signature dish is the teppari-amiyaki, a variety of grilled local seafood including awabi (abalone). Their teppari-amiyaki Ise-ebi course costs ¥5400, but there are plenty of other cheaper dishes available. Daily 11am–7pm.

Road Inn Toba ロードイン鳥羽 1-63-11 Toba 0599 26 5678, greens.co.jp/toba. This standard business hotel is located on a hill behind the station and has basic but clean rooms, plus free internet. The sauna and swimming pool next door can be used by guests. ¥7000

Tenbinya Honten てんびん屋本店 1-4-61 Toba 0599 25 2223. Located in the streets just inland from Mikimoto Pearl Island, Tenbinya makes a great choice for a very reasonably priced seafood dinner. The speciality is ama no kamameshi (¥1350) – seafood caught by the ama women divers, served with rice. There’s another branch in the Ichibangai building opposite Toba Station. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5–10.30pm.

Toba International Hotel 鳥羽国際ホテル 1-23-1 Toba 0599 25 3121, tobahotel.co.jp. Pricey resort-style hotel in a fine position on the headland overlooking Toba Bay. Rooms are well appointed, with marvellous views, and the in-house restaurant serves French cuisine. It’s about a 10min walk from the station. ¥28,400

Ōsatsu

鳥羽

The coastal village of ŌSATSU is home to one of Japan’s largest communities of ama women divers, with more than 150 women still practising this 2000-year-old tradition. It’s one of the few places that you can meet the women in their amagoya huts, where they grill freshly caught seafood and are happy to chat with visitors.

Ōsatsu Ama Culture Museum

相差海女文化資料館 • 1238 Ōsatsu-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 0599 33 7453

The small museum of Ōsatsu Ama Culture Museum details the history and culture of the ama women divers in the Shima-Hantō area. It’s a good first stop to gain some insight into the history and traditions of the practice, and some of the exhibits have English explanations. There’s also quite a bit of diving equipment on display, and seasonal exhibitions of ama-inspired artworks.

Ishigami Shrine

石神さん, Ishigami-san • 1385 Ōsatsu-chō • Dawn–dusk • Free

Located within Shinmei-jinja (神明神社), the small Ishigami Shrine is dedicated to Ishigami-san, the female deity who is the guardian of the ama divers. The shrine is also known for its mystical powers, and can apparently grant special wishes to women. Women from all over Japan visit the shrine to pray for safety and happiness, and on May 5 each year, hundreds of ama gather here for a special festival. You can buy special protective star-patterned amulets from the shrine for ¥800.

Hachiman Kamado

はちまんかまど • 1094 Ōsatsu-chō • 10am–4.30pm, closed Thurs; reserve in advance • From ¥2160 (seafood snacks) or ¥6000 (seafood lunch), including shuttle bus from Toba Station • 0599 33 6145, amakoya.com

The highlight of a visit to Ōsatsu is meeting the ama divers, and the star of the show at Hachiman Kamado (divers’ hut) is octogenarian Nomura Reiko, a veteran diver. Nomura-san and her ama friends are very welcoming, and, as they grill freshly caught seafood, they will tell you their stories of the sea and the ama lifestyle. Unless you speak Japanese, however, it’s best to come with an interpreter to help you chat with the women.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ŌSATSU

By bus To get to Ōsatsu, take the Kamome bus from Toba Station (10 daily; 45min; ¥600).

Tours The Kaito Yumin Club ( 0599 28 0001, oz-group.jp) runs “Ama Experience” tours from Toba to Ōsatsu, including a visit to the Ishigami shrine and the culture museum, plus lunch in an amagoya hut (5hr; ¥13,500).

Ago-wan

あご湾

The Shima Hantō ends in a bay of islands known as Ago-wan. With myriad coves and deep inlets, this huge, sheltered bay is scattered with wooded islands between which float banks of oyster rafts. For centuries, divers have been collecting natural pearls from its warm, shallow waters, but things really took off when Mikimoto Kokichi started producing his cultured pearls in Ago-wan early in the twentieth century. The main reason to visit today is to take a boat trip round the scenic bay and see the pearl industry at work, including a visit to a pearl farm.

THE AMA WOMEN DIVERS

The female diving culture of Ise-shima dates back to the earliest annals of Japanese history. Known as ama (海女, literally “sea woman”), the women free-dive for shellfish, such as oysters and abalone, as well as harvesting seaweed. On average, they’ll spend three to four hours a day in the water, going down to a depth of 10–15m without any breathing apparatus; some are still diving past the age of 70. Ama usually dive year-round, either in small groups, or from boats skippered by their husbands. The reason for women-only divers is that they can hold their breath longer than men and have an extra layer of insulating fat, which protects them from the freezing waters.

Traditionally, ama harvested seafood in Ise Bay and transported it to Ise-jingū, where they presented their catch as an offering. The women played a major role in the development of the cultured pearl industry in the nineteenth century, helping to gather the akoya pearl oysters. Today, there are approximately 1300 ama in the Toba area; they still wear the customary white outfits, which apparently scare off sharks, and which are also marked with special protective star-shaped charms to ward off bad luck.

BOAT TRIPS FROM AGO-WAN BAY

A choice of sightseeing boats and ferries leaves from the tiny Kashikojima (賢島) harbour at the end of the Kintetsu train line. You can cruise in the Esperanza, a very tacky mock-Spanish galleon (hourly departures 9am–4.30pm; 50min; ¥1600; shima-marineleisure.com) which stops off at a pearl farm. A cheaper option is to hop on one of the two infrequent passenger ferries (teikisen; 定期船): across to Goza (御座), on the long arm forming the bay’s southern edge, and back via Hamajima (浜島), to the west of Kashikojima (1hr 10min; ¥1800 for the round-trip); or via Masaki island (間崎) in the middle of the bay to Wagu (和具), a village east of Goza (25min; ¥600 one-way). You can get tickets and information about the ferries and Spanish cruise boat from an office beside the harbour (on the right as you walk down from the station); yūransen tickets are available from one of the small booths opposite.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE AGO-WAN

By train The Kintetsu line from Ise runs through Toba and terminates at Kashikojima Station, a minute’s walk north of the harbour.

Destinations Ise (every 20min; 40min); Kyoto (hourly; 2hr 45min); Nagoya (hourly; 2hr 10min); Osaka (roughly hourly; 2hr 25min); Toba (every 15min; 30–40min).

ACCOMMODATION

Ryokan Ishiyama-sō 旅館石山荘 Yokoyama-jima 0599 52 1527, losmen.info. A great place to spend the night on the small island of Yokoyama-jima (横山島). After dining on a scrumptious feast of fresh seafood in their restaurant, you can watch the sun go down over Ago-wan. The rooms are mostly tatami-style, but they also have a few Western-style ones. The English-speaking owner will come and collect you in his boat from a jetty near Kashikojima pier for the short trip to the island. ¥7275

Shima Bayside Terrace 都リゾート 志摩 ベイサイドテラス 3618-33 Ago-chō 0599 43 7211, miyakohotels.ne.jp. Spanish-style resort hotel in a lovely setting overlooking a cove. The contemporary rooms are spacious and have balconies, and the in-house French and Japanese restaurants are excellent. ¥21,650

Shima Kankō Hotel 志摩観光ホテル 731 Ago-chō 0599 43 1211, www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/shima. This classic luxury hotel was spruced up for the G7 Summit, held here in 2016, and is now more modern in style and better equipped, though the quaint, old-fashioned service remains. It’s in a magnificent position overlooking the bay, and the spacious rooms have wonderful views. ¥26,000

Kōbe

神戸

The historic port city of KŌBE, the capital of Hyōgo-ken, is nestled on a sliver of land between the sea and the steep slopes of Rokkō-san, and is renowned for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, eclectic food scene and jazz clubs. Although it’s more than twenty years since the 1995 earthquake, Kōbe has far from forgotten this horrific event: the Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institution documents the quake and its aftermath, while the Tetsujin robot monument is a reminder of the spirit and effort of Kōbe citizens in rebuilding their city. The Kōbe City Museum, covering the port’s earlier illustrious history, is also worth a look, as is the space-age-looking Kōbe Fashion Museum on the man-made Rokkō Island, east of the city harbour. For the best view of the whole city and the Inland Sea, take the Shin-Kōbe Ropeway up Rokkō-san to the Nunobiki Herb Garden, where you might also be lucky enough to see one of the many wild boars that roam the city’s mountainous northern districts.

Brief history

Kōbe’s history is dominated by two important events; the opening of Japan’s ports to foreign trade in 1868, and the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995. Although it had been a port as long ago as the eighth century, Kōbe’s fortunes really took off when foreign traders set up shop in the city in the latter part of the nineteenth century, bringing their new ways and styles of living with them. Japan got its first taste of beef and football in 1871 in Kōbe, the first cinema film was shown here in 1896, and the first golf course was laid down close to the city in 1903, designed by Arthur Gloom, a Brit. This trendsetting nature and booming trade made Kōbe very popular, and despite suffering heavy bombing during World War II, by the 1960s the city was bursting out of its narrow stretch of land between the mountains and the sea. A solution was found by levelling the hills and dumping the rubble in the sea to create Port Island and Rokkō Island in the bay.

All this came to a sudden halt, though, at 5.46am on January 17, 1995, when a devastating earthquake struck the city and surrounding area. As dawn broke, Kōbe resembled a war zone, with buildings and highways toppled, whole neighbourhoods in flames, some 6500 people dead and tens of thousands homeless. While the authorities were criticized for not responding promptly to the disaster, Kōbe recovered well and today the city bears little physical sign of the tragedy. Lessons learnt from this experience helped with relief efforts in Tōhoku after the 2011 tsunami, and groups of Kōbe volunteers were also active in assisting affected communities there.

Kōbe City Museum

神戸市博物館, Kōbe-shi Hakubutsukan • 24 Kyo-machi • Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm • ¥200 • 078 391 0035, www.kobecitymuseum.jp • A 10min walk south of either Sannomiya or Motomachi stations

Around a century ago, the area south of Sannomiya Station was Kōbe’s principal foreign settlement, although there’s little evidence of it today. To get a better idea of what it once looked like, head for the Kōbe City Museum, which reopened after a major renovation in November 2019, and contains a finely detailed scale model of early twentieth-century Kōbe and many woodblock prints from the same era. The highlight of the museum, however, is its collection of Namban (southern barbarian) art. These paintings, prints and screens – some of extraordinary detail and beauty – by Japanese artists of the late sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, show how they were influenced by the art of the first Europeans, or “southern barbarians”, to come to Japan. Due to their fragile nature, however, only a few of these artworks are on display at any one time.

Nankin-machi

南京町 • South of JR Motomachi Station • nankinmachi.or.jp

Kōbe’s Chinatown is called Nankin-machi and is packed with restaurants, shops and colourful street stalls, which are all fairly touristy but add to the city’s international atmosphere. The entrance is marked by the ornate Choan-mon gate opposite the Daimaru department store. It’s better to visit during the day, as most businesses are closed by mid-evening.

Kitano and the ijinkan

北野 • 1km north of Sannomiya Station • Ijinkan daily: March–Dec 9am–6pm; Jan & Feb until 5pm • Oranda-kan ¥700; other ijinkan range in price from free up to ¥1050 • kobeijinkan.com

KŌBE ORIENTATION

With a central area that’s less than 3km wide, Kōbe is a great city for walking. The sights are split into three main areas. South of the band of rail lines passing through Sannomiya Station is the commercial centre, covering the Old Settlement area and, to the west, Nankin-machi, Kōbe’s Chinatown. Immediately south of here are the harbour developments of Meriken Park, Kōbe Harborland, Port Island and Rokkō Island. North of Sannomiya Station lies Shin-Kōbe Station and Kitano, where the ijinkan (foreigners’ houses) are clustered on the slopes of Maya-san.

Of primary interest to the hordes of Japanese visitors to Kōbe are the ijinkan, the foreign residences of Kitano, located on the slopes north of Sannomiya. After Kōbe opened as an international port in 1868, dozens of Western-style brick and clapboard houses were built on the hillside. Fewer than thirty remain, as virtually all the ijinkan had to be rebuilt after the 1995 earthquake, and most are now fairly tacky reconstructions heavily focused on souvenir sales. The most popular ijinkan is the Oranda-kan, the former home of the Dutch consul-general. The area also has some fashionable cafés, restaurants and shops, and is a pleasant place to explore.

Shin-Kōbe Ropeway and Nunobiki Herb Garden

Ropeway 新神戸ロープウェー • Daily: mid-March to mid-July & Sept–mid-March 9.30am–4.45pm, Sat & Sun till 8.15pm; mid-July to Aug 9.30am–8.15pm • ¥950 one-way, ¥1500 return (includes garden admission) • Garden 布引ハーブ園, Nunobiki Habu-en • Mid-March to mid-July & Sept–mid-March 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun till 8.30pm; mid-July to Aug 10am–8.30pm • ¥200 • 078 271 1160, kobeherb.com

GIGANTOR: THE KŌBE TETSUJIN PROJECT

In Wakamatsu Kōen, one of the areas of Kōbe that was hardest hit by the 1995 earthquake, stands an impressive 18m-tall, fifty-tonne replica of the famous manga and anime robot Tetsujin 28 (鉄人２８号; kobe-tetsujin.com), known as Gigantor outside Japan. The citizens of Kōbe raised US$1.4 million to build the giant-sized statue of this fictional robot as a symbol of the city’s revival after the earthquake. The manga artist who created Tetsujin 28, Mitsuteru Yokoyama, was a native of Kōbe. His Tetsujin, literally “iron man”, was the first giant robot to appear in manga, in 1956. Later, the manga was adapted into an animated television series, which was first broadcast in 1963. The full-scale robot has now become a popular hub for manga and anime-related events in Kōbe. To get to Wakamatsu Kōen, take the JR line from Sannomiya to Shin-Nagata Station.

From the top of Kitano, it’s a short walk across to the Shin-Kōbe Ropeway near Shin-Kōbe Station. The cable-car provides sweeping views of the bay, and passes the picturesque Nunobiki Falls on its way up to the restful Nunobiki Herb Garden, a flower garden with a field of lavender and glasshouses stocked with more exotic blooms. Hiking up the hill along the course, starting behind Shin-Kōbe Station, takes around 45 minutes.

The observation deck near the top of the ropeway provides spectacular vistas down over Kōbe, particularly at night – a panorama that’s been dubbed “The Ten Million Dollar View”.

Meriken Park

メリケンパーク • kobe-meriken.or.jp

Kōbe’s port lies directly south of Nankin-machi and is marked by the waterfront Meriken Park, which houses the Kōbe Port Tower, the Kōbe Maritime Museum and, partly submerged in the harbour, an unusual memorial to the victims of the Great Hanshin Earthquake.

Kōbe Maritime Museum

神戸海洋博物館, Kōbe Kaiyō Hakubutsukan • 2-2 Hatoba-chō • Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm • ¥600 • 078 327 8983, kobe-maritime-museum.com

The filigree roof of the Kōbe Maritime Museum, a swooping white framework symbolizing waves and sails, is the city’s most striking architectural feature. The museum itself contains detailed models of a wide range of ships, including the British warship Rodney, which fired the signal gun that marked the opening of the city’s modern port, and intriguing audiovisual displays, although it lacks the impact of its exterior.

Kōbe Harborland

神戸ハーバーランド • harborland.co.jp

Just west of Meriken Park, directly across the bay, is the Kōbe Harborland development, where spruced-up brick wharf buildings are joined by modern shopping malls, a cinema complex and a huge Ferris wheel.

Kōbe Fashion Museum

神戸ファッション美術館, Kōbe Fasshon Bijutsukan • 2-9-1 Koyochonaka • Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm • Entry fees vary depending on the exhibition • 078 858 0055, fashionmuseum.or.jp/english • Take the Rokkō Liner monorail from JR Sumiyoshi or Hanshin Uozaki stations to Island Centre Station (¥250); the museum is a couple of minutes’ walk from the southeast exit

East of the city centre, the main attraction on the artificially built Rokkō Island (六甲アイランド) is the Kōbe Fashion Museum. Housed inside what looks like a docked Starship Enterprise, this museum is a must for fashionistas, with regular special exhibitions that mainly focus on historical developments and classic couture collections. There’s also an extensive multilingual library of fashion magazines.

Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institution

人と防災未来センター, Hito to Bōsai Mirai Senta • 1-5-2 Kaigan-dōri • Tues–Thurs & Sun 9.30am–4.30pm (July–Sept till 5pm), Fri & Sat 9.30am–6pm • ¥600 for both museums • 078 262 5050, dri.ne.jp • About a 10min walk from Hanshin Iwaya or JR Nada stations’ south exits

The Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institution consists of two conjoined museums dedicated to the Great Hanshin Earthquake. The Disaster Reduction Museum, in the west building, is the more interesting of the two, and its high-tech multimedia facilities, interactive exhibits and film screenings devoted to the 1995 disaster make this one of Kōbe’s highlights. Queue in the lobby and you’ll be led up to the fourth floor, where you’ll see two short films, and experience the sensation of a tremor, before proceeding to the incredibly detailed exhibits. Audio guides are available, and there are often English-speaking volunteers on hand, some of them quake survivors, who are happy to answer questions.

Hyōgō Prefectural Museum of Art

兵庫県立美術館, Hyōgō Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 1-1-1 Kaigan-dōri • Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm • ¥500, special exhibitions ¥1300 • 078 262 0901, artm.pref.hyogo.jp • About a 10min walk from Hanshin Iwaya or JR Nada stations’ south exits

The Andō Tadao-designed Hyōgō Prefectural Museum of Art, adjacent to the Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institution, is highly recommended. Exhibitions tend to focus on artists from the prefecture, but as this includes the postwar Gutai – a controversial group of loosely aligned 1950s avant-garde artists who went very much against the local grain with their stunts and visceral visual art – the quality is extremely high.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KŌBE

By plane The nearest airports to Kōbe are Kōbe Airport on Port Island (神戸空港ターミナル; 078 304 7777, kairport.co.jp/eng), which only handles domestic flights, and Kansai International Airport (関西国際空港; 072 455 2500, kansai-airport.or.jp/en), 35km south of Osaka, where international flights arrive. To get from Kōbe Airport to Sannomiya, take the Port Liner monorail (18min; ¥340). The most convenient way of getting directly to Kōbe from Kansai International Airport is by limousine bus (1hr 5min; ¥2000), which drops passengers at Sannomiya Station.

Destinations from Kōbe Airport Ibaraki (3 daily; 1hr 15min); Kagoshima (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Nagasaki (4 daily; 1hr 10min); Naha (7 daily; 2hr 5min); Sapporo (6 daily; 1hr 50min); and Tokyo Haneda (9 daily; 1hr 15min).

By train Shinkansen trains stop at Shin-Kōbe Station (新神戸) at the foot of Rokkō-san, around 1km north of Sannomiya Station in downtown Kōbe. JR services and trains on the Hankyū and Hanshin lines stop at Sannomiya Station (三宮駅); Hankyū and Hanshin services are the cheaper way of connecting with Osaka and Kyoto if you’re not using a JR Pass.

Shin-Kōbe Station (Shinkansen) destinations Fukuoka (Hakata Station; every 15min; 2hr 10min); Himeji (every 30min; 15–30min); Hiroshima (every 20min; 1hr 10min); Kyoto (every 10min; 30min); Nagoya (every 10min; 1hr 5min); Okayama (every 10min; 30min); Shin-Osaka (every 10min; 15min); Tokyo (every 10min; 2hr 45min).

By bus Long-distance buses operated by JR Highway Buses ( nishinihonjrbus.co.jp/en), Nihon Kotsu ( nihonkotsu.co.jp) and Willer Bus ( willerexpress.com/en) depart from Sannomiya.

Destinations Fukuoka (daily; 9hr 25min); Tokyo (30 daily; 8hr); Tottori (7 daily; 3hr 20min); Uwajima (2 daily; 7hr 30min); Yokohama (3 daily; 8hr 30min–10hr 5min); and Yonago (6 daily; 3hr 20min).

By ferry Orange Ferry ( orange-ferry.co.jp), Ferry Sunflower ( ferry-sunflower.co.jp) and Hankyū Ferry ( han9f.co.jp/en) services from Shikoku and Kyūshū arrive at the Rokkō Island Ferry Terminal, east of the city. From here, you can take the Rokkō Liner monorail to JR Sumiyoshi or Hanshin Uozaki stations, from where it’s 10min to either JR Sannomiya or Hanshin Sannomiya stations. The Japan–China International Ferry Co ( 06 6536 6541, shinganjin.com) heads to Shanghai from Kōbe on alternate weeks.

Destinations Miyazaki (daily; 13hr 30min–14hr 40min); Ōita (daily; 12hr); Nihama (daily; 7hr); Shinmoji (daily; 12hr 30min); Shanghai (twice a month; 48hr).

Tourist information The main tourist information office (daily 9am–7pm; 078 322 0220, hello-kobe.com) is at the eastern side of the south exit of JR Sannomiya Station. There’s also an information counter inside Shin-Kōbe Station near the main Shinkansen gate (daily 9am–6pm; 078 241 9550), and a small tourist information office near the ijinkan in Kitano (daily 9am–5pm; 078 251 8360).

SAKE BREWING

The Nada (灘) sake-brewing district, 5km east of the commercial centre, and just inland from Rokkō Island, is home to more than forty breweries. Take the Rokkō Liner monorail to Minami Uozaki Station and walk five minutes east to the Uozaki-Gō area (魚崎郷). Here you can visit three sake breweries and see the production of sake, as well as sample a few free thimblefuls.

Hakutsuru 白鶴 4-5-5 Sumiyoshi Minami-machi 078 822 8907, hakutsuru.co.jp/english. This large brewing company has turned one of its original brewing houses into a museum, with an emphasis on the tradition of sake brewing. There’s a free tasting after you’ve toured the exhibits. Call in advance to make a reservation. Daily 9.30am–4pm.

Hamafukutsuru 浜副鶴 4-4-6 Uozaki Minami-machi 078 411 8339, hamafukutsuru.co.jp. You can observe the brewing process from decks overlooking the production area (with simple explanations in English) at this brewery. Samples of Hamafukutsuru’s sake are available after the brewery tour. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

Sakuramasamune 櫻正宗 5-10-1 Uozaki Minami-machi 078 436 3030, sakuramasamune.co.jp/english. Check out the historical exhibits and the in-house restaurant, Sakuraen, where you can enjoy lunch (from ¥1500) and kaiseki dinners (from ¥4000) with the house brews. There’s also a counter bar, Sancupya (5–10pm, closed Tues) where you can sample 25 different grades of sake by the cup (from ¥240).

GETTING AROUND

By bus The city loop tourist bus (¥260 per ride, or ¥660 for a day pass) runs a regular circuit around Kōbe’s main sights, and gives substantial discounts to many of the city’s major attractions (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am–6pm).

Car rental Nippon Rent-a-Car has a branch near Sannomiya Station ( 078 231 0911, nrgroup-global.com/en).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel Kōbe ANAクラウンプラザホテル神戸 1-7-14 Kitano-chō 078 291 1121, anacrowneplaza-kobe.jp/en. This upmarket hotel occupies a soaring skyscraper next to Shin-Kōbe Station, with fantastic views from all rooms, great service and a good range of restaurants both in the hotel and the connected shopping plaza. ¥13,500

The b Kōbe ザ・ビー神戸 21-5 Shimoyamate-dōri 078 333 4480, ishinhotels.com/en/theb/kobe. An excellent mid-range choice right in the middle of Sannomiya, close to the main nightlife area. The stylish rooms are comfortable, though on the small side, and are equipped with large-screen TVs and “tower showers”. There’s a coffee lounge in the lobby. ¥10,600

Hotel Okura Kōbe ホテルオークラ神戸 2-1 Hatoba-chō 078 333 0111, kobe.hotelokura.co.jp/en. Elegant luxury hotel with smartly designed rooms, beside the Kōbe Port Tower. Facilities include swimming pools, tennis courts and a fitness centre. The in-house restaurants serve a variety of Japanese cuisines, as well as French and Chinese, and the dimly lit Emerald bar has all the right atmosphere for a quiet drink. Free shuttle to and from Sannomiya Station. ¥16,320

Trusty Kōbe Kyūkyoryūchi ホテルトラスティ神戸旧居留地 63 Naniwa-machi 078 330 9111. Located in the Motomachi district, not far from Chinatown, this stylish hotel is a good mid-range option, with clean, if somewhat pokey, rooms. On the second floor, there’s a pleasant outdoor terrace café serving a good breakfast buffet (¥2050 extra). ¥10,150

Yume Nomad ユメノマド 1-2-2 Shinkaichi 078 576 1818, yumenomad.com. Friendly backpacker hostel in a converted ryokan with a stylish café and bar, as well as an art gallery that doubles as an occasional cinema. All rooms, both shared and private, have an attached shower/toilet, and there’s a well-equipped kitchen for self-catering. Bike rental also available (¥500/day). No under-10s. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥6400

EATING MAP

Kōbe’s long history of international exchange has given it a reputation for having the best Western-style and ethnic cuisine restaurants in the country, all aimed at Japanese palates. Despite the density of restaurants offering Chinese and Indian cuisine, it can be difficult to find authentic dim sum or curry. The most cosmopolitan dining area is between Sannomiya Station and Kitano, where you can also find the local delicacy, Kōbe beef – succulent but expensive slices of meat heavily marbled with fat.

Ageha あげは 2-4-8 Nakayamate-dōri 078 321 2780, cafe-ageha.jp. This bright and friendly café serves healthy meals made from locally grown organic vegetables. The most basic lunch set is ¥1080, and includes soup and salad. For dinner, there’s a range of options, including curry (¥1510), and steamed vegetables with home-made dipping sauce (¥1510). Daily 11am–9pm.

Beef Steak Kawamura ビーフステーキカワムラ 6F Moonlight Bldg, 1-10-6 Kitanagasa-dōri 078 335 0708, bifteck.co.jp/en. Kawamura serves award-wining local beef in an opulent setting complete with Greco-Roman statues and chandeliers. The deluxe Kōbe beef lunch sets start at ¥12,600, while set dinner courses cost from ¥14,300. It’s also possible to order à la carte. Daily 11.30am–3pm & 5–10.30pm.

Misono みその 7F & 8F 1-1-2 Shimoyamate-dōri 078 331 2890, misono.org/shop/kobe. This restaurant proudly boasts that it is the originator of the teppanyaki grilling technique, but it also has a reputation for serving top-quality local beef. Locals flock here for the 100g fillet (¥8800), grilled expertly on the counter hotplates. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10pm.

Modernark Pharm Cafe モダナークカフェ 3-11-15 Kitanagasa-dōri 078 391 3060, modernark-cafe.chronocle.co.jp. This vegetarian restaurant is spacious, light and bursting with indoor plants. The daily lunch plate (¥1200) has a delicious selection of veggie dishes, and the evening à la carte menu includes chilli bean burrito (¥1100). Also recommended are the organic fresh juices and scrumptious desserts. Daily 11.30am–10pm, Wed till 3pm.

Roushouki 老祥記 2-1-14 Motomachi-dōri 078 331 7714, roushouki.com. Extremely popular buta-man (steamed pork bun) restaurant that’s been in business since 1915, when it mainly catered to homesick Chinese sailors. Buns are just ¥90 each. Arrive early so as not to be disappointed – there’s usually a long queue. Daily 10am–6.30pm.

Toliuo Hanare 木炭トリオハナレ 1F Third Tensei Bldg, 1-7-20 Nakayamate-dōri 078 391 0870. Dinky yakitori counter-bar restaurant specializing in sumibi-yaki (food grilled over charcoal). Try bamboo shoots, rice balls, chicken or even French pigeon (from ¥600), all attractively presented on little wooden boards, but be careful if you opt for tori-sashi – raw chicken sashimi. Daily 5.30pm–midnight.

Wanto Burger ワントバーガー 1F Fukuyasu Bldg, 3-10-6 Shimoyamate-dōri 078 392 5177, wantoburger.com. Hipster diner serving the latest in local cuisine – the Kōbe beef burger. Wanto has a number of variations, starting with a simple hamburger (¥1080) and culminating in the Super Wanto Burger (¥3800), a heart-attack-inducing stack of Kōbe beef atop a Kōbe patty. Tues–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–5pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

While Kōbe doesn’t have as strong a club scene as neighbouring Osaka, it does have a good range of bars, most clustered around Sannomiya and Motomachi, and all within easy walking distance of each other. As Kōbe is the birthplace of Japanese jazz, it’s worth spending an evening in one of the city’s jazz clubs.

BARS

Bar Ashibe バーあしべ 2-12-21 Shimoyamate-dōri 078 391 2039. Dark and moody bar with lots of intimate seating space, plus an extensive, but rather expensive (from ¥1000), cocktail menu. Popular with both locals and the expat crowd. Daily 6pm–4am.

Chariburaun チャーリーブラウン 1-2-15 Kaigan-dōri 078 393 1514. Charlie Brown is a retro-rockabilly bar, established in 1969, and located down an extremely narrow alleyway. Once inside, order a drink (there’s no menu but they have the basics, from ¥850) and marvel at the memorabilia adorning the walls. No seating charge. Daily 6pm–1am.

CLUBS

Jam Jam ジャムジャム B1 1-7-2 Motomachi 078 331 0876, jam-jam-jazz-club.business.site. Cavernous basement jazz club with two types of seating – listening only, and quiet conversation. No requests are allowed, but the playlist here is unforgettable. Daily noon–11pm.

Sone ソネ Kitano-zaka 078 221 2055, kobe-sone.com. The birthplace of Japanese jazz, attracting many top international artists as well as local talent. The first live set starts at 6.50pm, and there are four performances a night; cover charge from ¥1200. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Troop Cafe トループカフェ B1 2-11-5 Kitanagasa-dōri 078 321 3130, troopcafe.jp. Popular club with regular weekend events of mainly house, techno and bass music. Some gigs are free; others have a cover charge, which includes one drink (from ¥1500). Sat & Sun from 5.30pm.

DIRECTORY

Emergencies The main police station is at 5-4-1 Shinoyamate-dōri ( 078 341 7441). There’s also a police box opposite the information centre at the Sannomiya Station south exit. In an emergency, contact the Foreign Advisory Service on 078 291 8441.

Hospital and medical advice Kōbe Adventist Hospital, at 8-4-1 Arinodai, Kita-ku ( 078 981 0161, kahns.org), has many English-speaking staff, but is a 30min drive north of the city. Kōbe Kaisei Hospital, at 3-11-15 Shinohara Kitamachi, Nada-ku ( 078 871 5201, kobe-kaisei.org), has an international division with lots of English-speaking staff, but, like the Adventist Hospital, is a little awkward to reach, being a 15min walk uphill from Hankyū Rokkō Station. Kōbe University Hospital, at 7-5-2 Kusunoki-chō ( 078 382 5111, www.hosp.kobe-u.ac.jp/e), is a 10min walk north of Kōbe Station.

Post office There’s a convenient branch in the Kōbe Kokusai Kaikan Building, directly south of Sannomiya Station (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm), as well as a small postage-only branch beneath JR Sannomiya Station.

Arima Onsen

有馬温泉

On the northern slopes of Rokkō-san, northeast of Kōbe, is one of Japan’s oldest hot-spring resorts, ARIMA ONSEN. Since the seventh century, Arima has been famous for attracting emperors, shoguns and, in more modern times, the literati, all of whom have come to bathe in its healing gold and silver waters. It’s even mentioned in the ancient chronicle the Nihonshoki. Toyotomi Hideyoshi brought the tea master Sen no Rikyū here in the sixteenth century to perform a tea ceremony, an event commemorated annually in November with the Arima Great Tea Ceremony.

Arima has two kinds of mineral-rich hot springs, both recognized for their numerous health benefits, as well as some top-class ryokan, where you can soak yourself in luxury on an overnight trip. If you are only here for the day, you can either take a dip in the public baths, or (more expensively) visit the spas of some of Arima’s ryokan and hotels: the tourist office can tell you which private spas accept non-residents.

Kin no Yu

金の湯 • 833 Arima-chō • Daily 8am–9.30pm; closed second and fourth Tues of the month • ¥650 • 078 904 0680 • A 5min walk uphill from the train station, close to the bus station and tourist office

At the large Kin no Yu public bath, you can soak in the sludgy brown kinsen (gold spring) waters, at their source, and get relief for a wide variety of common health complaints, including some forms of rheumatism and sensitive skin. Don’t be put off by the colour – after bathing here, your skin will feel wonderfully soft, and the kinsen waters also have a relaxing effect. Outside the bathhouse, there’s a free ashi-yu footbath, as well as a fountain of drinkable spa water.

Gin no Yu

銀の湯 • 1039-1 Arima-chō • Daily 9am–8.30pm; closed first and third Tues of the month • ¥550 • 078 904 0256 • Gin no Yu is at the top of Negai-zaka slope past Nembutsu-ji temple, a 10min walk from the train station

The Gin no Yu public bath is much quieter than Kin no Yu and has a high ceiling with skylights; the light streaming in through the steam is quite spectacular. The clear ginsen (silver spring) waters are believed to be effective for curbing high blood pressure and improving blood circulation, and drinking the water is reputedly good for your digestive system.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ARIMA ONSEN

By train To reach the resort by train from Kōbe, take the subway from Sannomiya to Tanigami, then transfer to the Kōbe Dentetsu line to Arima Guchi (有馬口), where you may have to change again (same platform) to reach the terminus at Arima Onsen. The journey takes around 40min and costs ¥930. If you’re coming from Osaka, take a local JR train to Sannomiya Station and follow the route outlined above (around 1hr 20min in total; ¥1340).

By cable-car and ropeway A more scenic route from Kōbe to Arima Onsen, though a little more time-consuming and expensive than the train, is to take a cable-car and ropeway via Rokkō-san. Take the Hankyū line to Rokkō Station and then transfer by bus (#16; 10min; ¥210) to the Rokkō cable-car (daily 7.10am–9.10pm; rokkosan.com/en/access) for the 10min trip up Rokkō-san (¥590). You’ll need to a Rokkō Sanjo bus from the top station to the Rokkō Arima Ropeway Station (10min; ¥260), from where it’s another 10min by ropeway to Arima Onsen (daily: Sept–mid-July 9.30am–5.10pm, later at weekends; late-July to Aug 9.30am–9.30pm; ¥1010; koberope.jp/en/rokko).

By bus There are direct buses (1–2 hourly) from Sannomiya (50min; ¥700) via Shin-Kōbe Station (35min) to Arima Onsen, as well as JR West Japan highway buses (7 daily) from Shin-Kōbe Station (50min; ¥770) via Sannomiya (30min). From Osaka, comfortable a/c coaches from the Hankyū Bus Station beneath Hankyū Umeda Station cost ¥1370 and take an hour.

Tourist information The Arima Onsen Tourist Information Center (daily 9am–7pm; 078 904 0708, visit.arima-onsen.com) is located uphill from the train station. You can pick up a handy English map of the town here, and arrange accommodation, though it’s best to book in advance.

ACCOMMODATION

Kami-ō-bō 上大坊 1175 Arima-chō 078 904 0531, kamiobo.com. Small and friendly inn just up the main street from Kin no Yu, which serves delicious seasonal kaiseki-ryōri (two meals included in rates). The tatami rooms are compact but comfortable. Non-residents can bathe in the onsen here, too (daily 3–6pm; ¥1000). ¥30,540

Nakanobō Zui-en 中の坊瑞苑 808 Arima-chō 078 904 0787, zuien.jp/en. A superb Arima resort that has hosted the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco among several international celebrities. There’s a variety of plush Japanese- and Western-style rooms to choose from, all looking out onto carefully manicured gardens, and superb kaiseki-ryōri meals are served in your room. You can soak in both kinsen (gold) and ginsen (silver) waters here, and there’s also a private family bath that can be reserved by guests (¥2160/hr). ¥64,100

Tosen Goshobō 陶湶御所坊 858 Arima-chō 078 904 0551, goshoboh.com/en. This is the top place to stay in Arima: there have been lodgings in this exact location since the twelfth century, and its current incarnation – a fusion of Japanese and Western styles – is the height of onsen sophistication. Fortunately, they serve lunch to non-guests (daily 11am–2pm; from ¥2200), and accept day visitors to their stylish baths (same hours; ¥2000); both are great opportunities to experience the tasteful surroundings if you can’t afford to stay over. ¥66,200

Himeji

姫路

Of Japan’s twelve surviving feudal-era fortresses, by far the most impressive is the one in HIMEJI, 55km west of Kōbe. The fortress, Himeji-jō, made the memorable backdrop to the James Bond adventure You Only Live Twice, as well as countless feudal-era dramas and the Tom Cruise film, The Last Samurai, part of which was filmed here and around the city. The splendid gabled donjons of Himeji-jō – also known as Shirasagi-jō, or “white egret castle”, since the complex is supposed to resemble the shape of the bird in flight – miraculously survived the World War II bombings that laid waste to much of the city, and in 1993 the castle was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

Himeji is a welcoming and compact city, and although it can be visited as a day-trip, it’s a pleasant place to stay overnight. Other sights include the beautiful Himeji Kōko-en, nine linked traditional-style gardens, and a couple of museums with outstanding architecture around the fortress walls.

Himeji-jō

姫路城 • 68 Hon-machi • Daily 9am–4pm; April 27–Aug until 5pm • ¥1000, or ¥1050 combined ticket with Kōko-en (see below) • 079 285 1146, himejicastle.jp/en • Tours in English at 10am & 1.45pm (1hr 30min; ¥1000, sign up at the information point 15min before the start)

Around 1km directly north of Himeji Station lies the main gateway to Himeji-jō. The present complex of moats, thick defensive walls, keeps and connecting corridors dates from the early seventeenth century, although there has been a fortress in the town since around 1346. By the time Tokugawa Ieyasu’s son-in-law, Ikeda Terumasa, took control of the area in 1600, the country was at peace, and so when he set about rebuilding Himeji-jō, adding the central five-storey donjon and three smaller donjons, the aim was to create something visually impressive. Even so, the castle incorporates many cunning defensive features, which are explained in detail if you go on one of the guided tours in English.

Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau

KUMANO KODŌ

There’s an official (free) app, Himeji Castle Great Discovery, which gives an AR tour of the main sites. There’s also free wi-fi within the castle grounds, too.

Nishi-no-maru

西の丸

To the west of the main gateway, the Hishi-no-mon, are the open grounds of the Nishi-no-maru (western citadel), where the daimyō and his family lived; the central donjon was only used in times of war. All that remains of the original palace are the 240m-long outer corridor and the Keshō-yagura (Cosmetic Tower), where Tokugawa Iyesu’s granddaughter, Princess Sen, adjusted her kimono and powdered her nose in the mid-seventeenth century. It was Sen’s dowry that enabled the castle to be built in its present form.

Hon-maru

本丸

From the Nishi-no-maru, a zigzag path leads up through more gates and past turrets and walls – from which defending soldiers could fire arrows, shoot muskets and drop stones and boiling liquids – to the Hon-maru (inner citadel), which is dominated by the magnificent central donjon, the Dai-tenshū (大天守). There are seven levels within the dark and chilly keep, supported by a framework of huge wooden pillars, one of which is made from a 780-year-old cypress tree; touch it and it’s said you’ll live a long life. On the top level, where the lord and his family would have committed suicide if the castle were captured (which it never was), you can look out across the city and see as far as the Seto Inland Sea on clear days.

Himeji Kōko-en

姫路城好古園 • 68 Hon-machi • Daily 9am–4.30pm; May–Aug until 5.30pm • ¥300, or ¥1050 combined ticket with the castle (see above); tea ceremony (daily 10am–4pm) ¥500 • 079 289 4120

On the west side of Himeji-jō’s moat is the splendid Himeji Kōko-en, a reconstruction of samurai quarters built in 1992 on the former site of the Nishi Oyashiki, the daimyō’s west residence for his samurai. The nine connected Edo-period-style gardens are separated by rustic mud walls topped with roof-tiles, like those that would have stood around each samurai villa. In the gardens are mini forests, bamboo thickets, carp-filled pools, rockeries and an elegant teahouse where you can experience the tea ceremony. The Kassui-ken restaurant is located in a teahouse in the gardens.

Hyōgo Prefectural Museum of History

兵庫県立歴史博物館, Himeji Bungaku-Kan, Hyōgo Kenritsu Rekishi Hakubatsuken • 68 Hon-machi • Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm • ¥200 • 079 288 9011, www.hyogo-c.ed.jp/~rekihaku-bo/english/about.html

The informative Hyōgo Prefectural Museum of History, on the northeast side of Himeji-jō’s moat, is in a striking building designed by the founding father of modern Japanese architecture, Tange Kenzō. Inside are scale models of the twelve castle donjons across Japan that survive in their original form, as well as a display of children’s culture, beginning in the Edo period, and an interesting multimedia exhibition on Himeji’s festivals. The museum also provides three opportunities a day to try on a Heian-style twelve-layered court kimono and samurai armour (at 10.30am, 1.30pm & 3.30pm): apply at reception on arrival, as spaces are limited to one visitor per session.

Himeji City Museum of Literature

姫路文学館, Himeji Bungakukan • 84 Yamanoi-chō • Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm • ¥300 • 079 293 8228, www.himejibungakukan.jp/en

Tange Kenzō’s contemporary rival, Andō Tadao, has made his mark on the town’s urban landscape at the Himeji City Museum of Literature, some 600m directly west of the Museum of History, across the moat and just beyond the entrance to Princess Sen’s shrine, Senhime Tenman-gū (千姫天満宮). The exhibits inside the museum are mostly in Japanese (the English-language leaflet only gives a summary), but the displays are imaginative; Japanese literature enthusiasts will find the novelist Shiba Ryōtaro’s Memorial Hall of interest. If nothing else, come here to admire Andō’s ultra-modern design – a disjointed arrangement of squares, circles and walkways made from rough concrete.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HIMEJI

By train Himeji is a stop on the Shinkansen line between Osaka and Okayama, and is also served by slower but cheaper shinkaisoku (Special Rapid Service) trains, which take 40min from Kōbe or 1hr from Osaka. The train station is around 1km south of the castle, at the end of Ōtemae-dōri (大手前通り), the main boulevard.

Destinations Fukuoka (Hakata Station; hourly; 2hr); Hiroshima (every 30min; 55min); Kōbe (every 30min; 15min); Kyoto (every 30min; 45min); Nagoya (30 daily; 1hr 20min); Okayama (every 30min; 20min); Osaka (every 30min; 30min); and Tokyo (hourly; 3hr).

By bus Long-distance overnight highway buses from Tokyo (Shinjuku; daily; 9hr 30min) stop at the south side of the Himeji train station. Buses from Osaka and Kōbe also pull in here, though it’s much easier and quicker to travel from these destinations by train.

Tourist information Pick up a map from the excellent tourist information centre (daily 9am–7pm; 079 287 0003, himeji-kanko.jp) on the northwest side of the central entrance to the station, which is staffed by English-speakers between 10am and 3.30pm. They can also make accommodation bookings here. There’s a smaller tourist information office near the castle, but it only has maps and can’t help with accommodation or other enquiries.

GETTING AROUND

Loop bus The city “loop bus” (ループバス; every 15–30min: March–Nov daily 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun till 5pm; Dec–Feb Sat & Sun only 9am–5pm) starts from the Shinki Bus Terminal outside Himeji Station and stops at all the major tourist attractions. Rides cost ¥100, though the one-day pass (¥300) offers good value, as it also includes a twenty-percent discount on entry to a number of the city’s major sights, including the castle and some of the museums.

Bike rental Himeji has a convenient free bicycle loan service for tourists ( interstreet.jp/himeji). Bikes can be rented between 7am and 8pm, from various docking stations around the city, including from outside Himeji Station. It costs ¥100 for up to 1hr, and you can use it for as many one-hour periods throughout the day as you like.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Guesthouse Engakudou 縁楽堂 8-2 Yanagi-chō 090 9717 6763, engakudou.com/english.html. Tucked away in a residential area, this guesthouse is in a rambling 100-year-old house with lots of character. The tatami rooms are clean and comfortable, and there’s a shared kitchen and bathroom. Just across the road is a new annexe with more dorm beds and a library. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥7000

Himeji 588 Guesthouse ガハハゲストハウス 68 Hon-machi 079 227 6994, himeji588.com/eng. This super-friendly guesthouse is conveniently located at the castle end of the shopping arcade that leads north from the train station. Run with great care by the lovely Kyoko-san, it has been nicely renovated and has good facilities. It’s a great place to get insider information on Himeji and meet fellow travellers. Dorms ¥2700, doubles ¥7000

Hotel Nikkō Himeji ホテル日航姫路 100 Minami-ekimae-chō 079 222 2231, www.hotelnikkohimeji.co.jp. One of Himeji’s best upmarket options, located conveniently close to the station. The rooms are fairly spacious, and some of the higher floors have good views of the castle. There are four in-house restaurants, serving Japanese and Chinese food, a tea lounge, a bar and a gym. ¥16,400

Hotel Wing International ホテルウィングインタナーショナル132 Wata-machi 079 287 2111, hotelwing.co.jp/himeji. Stylish budget hotel with castle views from some floors, compact, comfortable rooms and a seventh-floor terrace. Breakfast is optional (¥975). ¥8055

EATING MAP

The Miyuki-dōri covered shopping arcade (みゆき通り), one street east of Ōtemae-dōri, is a good place to stop for a snack or pick up a bentō to enjoy within the castle grounds. There are also several decent lunch options closer to the castle.

Cuomo Salvatore 2F QWELL Bldg, 1-4 Nishiki-mae-chō 079 286 5765. The wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas at this modern industrial-chic restaurant make a pleasant change from sushi and noodles. Pasta, salads, and meat and cheese platters are also on the menu. Pasta from ¥880, pizza from ¥1380. Mon–Fri 11.30am–3.30pm & 5.30–11pm, Sat & Sun 11am–3.30pm & 5–11pm.

Kassui-ken 活水軒 68 Hon-machi 079 289 4131. Classic teahouse within Himeji Kōko-en serving the local speciality anago (grilled conger eel) cuisine. The anago-don set lunch, served with tempura, pickles and miso soup (¥1380), is the best deal here. Daily 10am–4.30pm.

Menme めんめ 68 Hon-machi 079 225 0118. A specialist udon shop, with noodles made on the premises throughout the day, and a variety of healthy toppings such as tofu and vegetables to choose from. Bowls of noodles start at ¥650. Noon–7pm, Sun till 4pm; closed Wed.

Sushi Bar Avanzar あばんさーる　227 Ekimae-chō 079 282 8866. Modern sushi restaurant run by the local fisheries co-op, and an excellent choice for lunch or dinner. Individual sushi pieces start at ¥350, and the chef’s selection sushi plate is a very reasonable ¥1600. 11am–3pm & 5–10pm; closed Wed.

DRINKING MAP

Public House Hosanna パブリックハウスホサンナ 9 Tate-machi 079 288 3299, pub-hosanna.com. Cosy British-style pub-restaurant with 12 local and imported draught beers on tap, and a wine bar. The food is a mishmash of typical izakaya fare and pub classics such as fish and chips (¥1580) and beef casserole (¥1780). Tues–Sun 5.30pm–midnight.

Kinosaki Onsen

城崎温泉

If you’re after an indulgent hot-springs experience, the atmospheric town of KINOSAKI ONSEN, in the northern part of Hyōgo prefecture, is well worth the journey. Hot-spring aficionados flock here in droves – especially in the winter months – to soak in the therapeutic waters and feast on kani (crab) from the nearby Sea of Japan. There are seven hot-spring public bathhouses (known as soto-yu), each one thought to bring bathers a different kind of luck, but most of Kinosaki’s ryokan also have their own private hot springs (uchi-yu). Because of its compact size, the town is easily explored on foot, and many visitors enjoy strolling along the ryokan-lined streets and willow-fringed canal in yukata (cotton kimono) and geta (wooden shoes); overnight stays usually include yukata rental and a pass to all of the public onsen.

Kō no Yu

鴻の湯 • 610 Yushima • 7am–11pm; closed Tues • ¥600 • 0796 32 2195 • A 20min walk from the train station

Kinosaki’s oldest bathhouse is Kō no Yu, which according to legend was built on the spot where a stork was seen bathing its wounds over 1400 years ago. It is believed to bring visitors happiness. As the furthest sotu-yu away from the train station, it is less hectic than Kinosaki’s other bathhouses and perfect for a peaceful and relaxing soak.

Gosho no Yu

御所の湯 • 448 Yushima • Daily 7am–11pm; closed first and third Thurs of the month • ¥800 • 0796 32 2230 • 10min walk from the train station

A dip in the waters at Gosho no Yu is believed to be not only beautifying but to make you lucky in love, too. The public bathhouse has both inside and outside baths (including a two-level rotemburo), and an entrance built in the opulent style of Kyoto’s Imperial Palace. Other regal touches include painted screens and an abundance of momiji (maples) in the garden.

Sato no Yu

さとの湯 • 290-36 Imazu • Tues–Sun 1–9pm • ¥800 • 0796 32 0111

Located practically in the train station, Sato no Yu is Kinosaki’s largest and most modern bathing complex, with Japanese- and Western-style baths that alternate between women and men on a daily basis. A dip here is alleged to aid friendship; facilities include jet baths, vapour baths and even an ice sauna. The rotemburo on the third floor has excellent views of the town.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KINOSAKI ONSEN

By train Kinosaki Onsen is on the JR San’in line, making it accessible from Tottori to the west, or from Kōbe, Kyoto or Osaka to the south. If you’re approaching from Amanohashidate, take the Kyoto Tango Railway ( willerexpress.com/en/train/tantetsu) to Toyooka (hourly; 1hr 30min; ¥1280) and then change to the JR San’in line.

Destinations Kōbe (3 daily; 2hr 25min); Kyoto (3 daily; 2hr 25min); Osaka (8 daily; 2hr 45min); Tottori (daily; 1hr 10min).

By bus There are direct buses from Osaka (Umeda; 5 daily; 2hr 55min–3hr 20min; ¥3700) and Kōbe (Sannomiya; 3 daily; 3hr 10min; ¥3300).

Tourist information The Sozoro Kinosaki Onsen Tourist Information office (daily 6.45am–6pm; 0796 32 0013, global.kinosaki-info.com) is run by a local bus company and located in front of the train station. They provide information in English and free wi-fi, and also rent out bikes and run local tours.

ACCOMMODATION

Mikuniya 三国屋 221 Yushima 0796 32 2414, www.kinosaki3928.com/english. This friendly ryokan has Japanese-style rooms and serves delicious crab and Tajima beef cuisine. Three uchi-yu (hot springs) can be reserved for private use, and spa treatments such as massages are available. ¥28,620

Nishimuraya Honkan 西村屋本館 469 Yushima 0796 32 2211, nishimuraya.ne.jp. This 150-year-old traditional ryokan (with its own museum) is one of the most luxurious places to stay in Kinosaki. Some rooms have balconies with lovely garden views, while others have their own private gardens and baths. Nishimuraya also serves elaborate seasonal meals, such as kaiseki course dinners that include crab. Spa treatments are available at its sister property. ¥103,400

Yamamotoya 旅館山本屋 643 Yushima 0796 32 2114, kinosaki.com. Proudly boasting that it is the oldest ryokan in Kinosaki, Yamamotoya has kept up with the times and has added a bar serving local brews that’s very popular with guests. Most of the Japanese-style rooms have views over the canal, and Yamamotoya’s crab cuisine is excellent. ¥37,400

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MEMORIAL CENOTAPH, HIROSHIMA

Western Honshū

Okayama

Kurashiki

Takahashi

Kojima and around

Fukuyama

Tomonoura

Onomichi and around

Hiroshima

Miyajima

Iwakuni

Yamaguchi and around

Shimonoseki and around

Hagi

Tsuwano

Izumo and around

Matsue and around

Kurayoshi and around

Tottori

Western Honshū

Long ago, western Honshū stood at the centre of the Japanese nation, sited between the country’s earliest settlements in Kyūshū and the imperial city of Kyoto. Hence the region’s official name, Chūgoku, which means “middle country” and is spelled with the same kanji that designates “China” in Japanese. It consists of two distinct geographical areas – the southern San’yō coast, which is blighted by heavy industry but borders the enchanting Inland Sea, and the rugged and sparsely populated northern San’in coast, which boasts some delightful small towns and a generally pristine landscape. While the southern coast is easy to travel around, with the east–west Shinkansen line supplemented by good local railway services and highways, it takes more planning to tour the northern coast by public transport, but the reward is to reach some properly remote destinations.

Despite the rich legacy of its past – both coasts hold burial mounds dating from the first century – western Honshū is best known as the site where the first atomic bomb was dropped, in 1945. Almost every visitor stops to pay respects at Hiroshima, the region’s largest city, halfway along the San’yō coast. To the east, Okayama is home to one of Japan’s most famous gardens, Kōrakuen, and makes a good base for visiting the beautifully preserved Edo-era town of Kurashiki and the island art project on Inujima. Closer to Hiroshima, two appealingly unspoiled coastal towns – the fishing village of Tomonoura, a five-minute ferry ride from the island of Sensui-jima, and the grittier port of Onomichi, stretching below a delightful array of hillside temples – enjoy views across the Inland Sea. Onomichi is also the jumping-off point for the Shimanami Kaidō, or Sea Road, which connects Honshū via a series of breathtaking bridges and islands to Imabari on Shikoku, taking in the laidback island of Ikuchi-jima en route.

Of the Inland Sea islands described in this chapter – several others, including Naoshima and the so-called “Art Islands”, are covered in chapter 9 – make sure you don’t miss Miyajima, the site of the ancient shrine Itsukushima-jinja, which is an easy day-trip from Hiroshima. On the southern coast of neighbouring Yamaguchi-ken, pause to admire the elegant Kintai-kyō bridge at Iwakuni and the spectacular view across the narrow Kanmon Straits to Kyūshū from Shimonoseki, at the tip of Honshū. Inland, the highlights of the prefecture’s small capital, Yamaguchi, are an impressive pagoda and a classic Zen rock and moss garden.

Near the western end of the frequently deserted San’in coast, the old castle town of Hagi boasts a lovely cluster of samurai houses and atmospheric temples. Perhaps even more beautiful is Tsuwano to the east, another small castle settlement nestling in a tranquil valley inland. Shimane-ken prefecture is the heartland of Japan’s eight million Shintō deities, who gather each year in November at the ancient shrine Izumo Taisha. The attractive city of Matsue, nearby, holds the region’s only original castle tower, as well as some old samurai houses and interesting museums. In neighbouring Tottori-ken, Mount Daisen, Chūgoku’s highest peak, offers great hiking in summer and skiing in winter.

If you only have a few days, aim to take in Onomichi and Matsue, as well as Hiroshima and Miyajima. In a couple of weeks, you could make a circuit of both coasts, taking in most of the region’s highlights.

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SHIMANAMI KAIDŌ, ONOMICHI

Highlights

Washū-zan Climb Washū-zan and watch the sun set over the Seto Ōhashi bridge and the islands of the Inland Sea.

Onomichi A favourite with movie-makers from Ozu onwards, this time-forgotten little port offers dramatic hillside temples, memorable hotels and great cycling.

Hiroshima Now a vibrant modern city, Hiroshima abounds in monuments to the devastation of the A-Bomb; the Peace Memorial Museum tells the full harrowing story.

Miyajima Watch the summer fireworks explode over Itsukushima-jinja’s magnificent torii, or swoon at the island’s spectacular autumn foliage.

Tsuwano Explore this picturesque old castle town by bicycle, then climb up to the Taikodani Inari-jinja through a tunnel of over a thousand red torii.

Adachi Museum of Art Rural art museum renowned for its exquisite, look-but-don’t-touch gardens.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

THE INLAND SEA

“They rise gracefully from this protected, stormless sea, as if they had just emerged, their beaches, piers, harbors all intact … Wherever one turns there is a wide and restful view, one island behind the other, each soft shape melting into the next until the last dim outline is lost in the distance.”

Donald Richie, The Inland Sea

It would be hard to improve on Richie’s sublime description of the Inland Sea (Seto Naikai), written in 1993. Despite his fears that it would all be ruined in Japan’s rush to the twenty-first century, this priceless panorama has changed remarkably little. Boxed in by Honshū, Kyūshū and Shikoku, and dotted with more than three thousand other islands, the sea is one of Japan’s scenic gems, often likened to the Aegean in its beauty.

Several islands are now connected by bridges and fast ferries to the mainland, reducing their isolation and much of their charm, but on many others you’ll be struck by the more leisurely pace of life and the relative lack of modern-day blight. The best islands to head for are Naoshima, Inujima, Ikuchi-jima, Ōmi-shima, Miyajima and Shōdoshima≈, all popular for their relaxed atmosphere and beautiful scenery.

If you don’t have time to linger, consider a boat trip across the sea or heading to a vantage point such as Washū-zan or Yashima to look out over the islands. There are also several sightseeing cruises, though these are expensive for what they offer; you’re better off putting together your own itinerary using individual ferry services.

GETTING AROUND WESTERN HONSHŪ

By plane There are airports near Hiroshima; Okayama; Ube, near Shimonoseki and Yamaguchi; Iwami, east of Hagi; Izumo and Yonago, either side of Matsue; and Tottori.

By train Shinkansen trains cover the full length of the south coast, heading east via Okayama to Shimonoseki and on to Kyūshū, but some delightful local routes thread through the inland valleys to reach and run along the north coast. A national JR Pass is the easiest way for most visitors to reach and explore the region, though if you’re simply making a quick visit to western Honshū, various local passes, such as the seven-day JR West San’yō-San’in Pass (¥22,000), are worth considering. Also worth mentioning is the luxury Twilight Express Mizukaze train ( twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp), which runs various two-day options between Kyoto/Osaka and Shimonoseki; stops include Onomichi, Miyajima, Kurashiki and Iwakuni.

By bus While generally slower and more expensive than trains, buses are also an option. Long-distance bus services often travel overnight between the major cities.

By car Renting a car is a good idea, especially if you’re planning to tour the quieter San’in coast, as you can make good use of the fast Chūgoku Expressway, which threads its way through the region’s central mountainous spine, from where you can branch off to sights on either coast.

By ferry If time isn’t an issue, schedule a leisurely ferry ride across the Inland Sea.

Okayama

岡山

The compelling reason to stop off in the capital of Okayama-ken, OKAYAMA, 730km west of Tokyo, is to stretch your legs on the lawns and footbridges of its famous Kōrakuen garden. Across the broad Ashi-gawa, though, you’ll also find the majestic Okayama-jō, the castle around which the city developed during the Edo period. The sort of place that tends to grow on visitors, Okayama is all on a very manageable scale, with the main street, Momotarō-dōri, punctuated by a charming covered shopping arcade, Omotechō-shōtengai, as well as the pleasant, tree-lined Nishigawa Greenway Canal. The ferry port to the south offers island excursions in the Inland Sea, while other attractions in the surrounding area make Okayama a potential base for a few days’ sightseeing.

Kōrakuen

後楽園 • 1-5 Kōrakuen • Daily: late March–Sept 7.30am–6pm, Oct–late March 8am–5pm • ¥400, or ¥560 with Okayama-jō • 086 272 1148, okayama-korakuen.jp

Okayama’s star attraction, the magnificent Kōrakuen, occupies most of the comma-shaped Nakanoshima, cradled within a curve of the Ashi-gawa twenty minutes’ walk east of the station. Acclaimed as one of the top three gardens in Japan – the others are Kenroku-en in Kanazawa and Ritsurin-kōen in Takamatsu – it was laid out in 1686 by Lord Ikeda Tsunamasa, and is notable for its broad, lush lawns, which are highly unusual in Japanese garden design. Otherwise, all the traditional elements, including artificial lakes, islands and hills, are present, while the black keep of Okayama-jō, across the river, has been nicely integrated into the scenery. It also holds a small tea plantation – relax over a bowl of delicious, foaming matcha in the Fukuda Teahouse alongside – and a flock of caged red-crested cranes.

Okayama-jō

岡山城 • 2-3-1 Marunouchi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300, or ¥560 with Kōrakuen • 086 225 2096, okayama-kanko.net/ujo

Immediately south of Kōrakuen, across the river via the Tsukimi-bashi (“Moon-viewing Bridge”), the castle of Okayama-jō was built in 1597 by Lord Ukita Hideie, the adopted son of the great warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Having fallen foul of both the Meiji restoration and World War II bombs, however, it was completely restored in 1966; the only original part of the compound is the Tsukimi Yagura (“Moon-Viewing Turret”), at its western corner. You can climb to the top of its donjon – the black wooden cladding of which gave rise to its nickname, U-jō (“Crow Castle”) – for superb views over both garden and city. Historical displays within include a remarkable bearskin quiver, stuffed with arrows; few, though, are labelled in English. Visitors can however dress up in kimono or samurai armour for no extra charge.

Okayama Orient Museum

岡山市立オリエント美術館, Okayama Shiritsu Oriento Bijutsukan • 9-31 Tenjin-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥800 • 086 232 3636, www.orientmuseum.jp

In an award-winning modernist building, the atmospheric Okayama Orient Museum is devoted to the ancient Near East rather than what English-speakers would normally consider the Orient. The highlights of its unusual collection of ancient artworks and artefacts are the Assyrian reliefs, while other treasures include Syrian mosaics and recently acquired sculptures from central Asia.

Okayama Prefectural Museum of Art

岡山県立美術館, Okayama Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 8-48 Tenjin-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥350, special exhibitions extra; ¥960 with Kōrakuen and Okayama-jō • 086 225 4800, bit.ly/okayama-art

As the name suggests, the Okayama Prefectural Museum of Art, just north of the Okayama Orient Museum, holds art from the surrounding area. As well as dreamy ink paintings by the fifteenth-century artist and priest Sesshū Tōyō, it displays prime specimens of the local pottery style, Bizen-yaki, and also puts on temporary exhibitions.

Hayashibara Museum of Art

林原美術館, Hayashibara Bijutsukan • 2-7-15 Marunouchi • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥800 • 086 223 1733, hayashibara-museumofart.jp

The Hayashibara Museum of Art, just southwest of Okayama-jō, shows off the exquisite Asian art acquired by late local businessman Hayashibara Ichirō. Only some of its beautiful collection, which includes armour, paintings, ceramics, metalwork, delicate ink scroll paintings and ravishing nō theatre robes from the sixteenth century, is on show at any one time, so take a moment to leaf through the catalogue while sipping a free cup of green tea in the lounge.

KIBI PLAIN BICYCLE ROAD

Accessed from either Okayama or Kurashiki, the 17km Kibi Plain bicycle road (吉備路サイクリングロード) provides an enjoyable opportunity to see a stunning expanse of countryside studded with ancient burial grounds, shrines and temples. The route takes about four hours to cycle – one-way rental bikes are available at the stations at either end, for around ¥1000 per day – or a full day to walk.

During the fourth century, this area, known as Kibi-no-kuni, was the cradle of early Japanese civilization. Lords were buried in giant keyhole-shaped mounds known as kofun, one of which can be visited along the cycle route. Starting from Bizen-Ichinomiya Station (備前一宮駅), three stops west of Okayama on the JR Kibi line, cross the tracks and follow the cycle path to Kibitsuhiko-jinja (吉備津彦神社; daily 5am–6pm; free), an ordinary shrine beside a pond notable only for its huge stone lantern, one of the largest in Japan. Around 300m further southwest, the much more impressive Kibitsu-jinja (吉備津神社; daily 5am–6pm; free), nestled at the foot of Mount Naka and dating from 1425, has a magnificently roofed outer sanctum, with twin gables. It’s dedicated to Kibitsu-no-mikoto, the valiant prince who inspired the legend of Momotarō, the boy who popped out of the centre of a giant peach rescued from a river by a childless farmer’s wife.

Several kilometres further west, the wooded Tsukuriyama-kofun (造山古墳) is a fifth-century burial mound, constructed in the characteristic keyhole-shape. Set amid rice fields and measuring 350m in length and 30m at its highest point, this is the fourth-largest kofun in Japan, but can only be fully appreciated from the air. A cluster of sights 1km east includes the foundation stones of Bitchū Kokubun-niji, an eighth-century convent; another burial mound; and the five-storey, seventeenth-century pagoda of Bitchū Kokubun-ji (備中国分寺; daily 10am–4pm; free).

It’s another couple of kilometres to the train station at Sōja (総社), from where you can return to either Okayama or to Kurashiki. Before you leave, check out Iyama Hōfuku-ji (井山宝福寺; daily 5am–5pm; free), a pretty Zen Buddhist temple 1km north of the station along a footpath that follows the railway line. The celebrated artist and landscape gardener Sesshū Tōyō (1420–1506) trained here as a priest.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION OKAYAMA

By plane Okayama Airport lies 15km northwest of town ( okayama-airport.org); buses connect with the flights, and run to and from the train station (30min; ¥760). As well as domestic flights, there are services to Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei.

Destinations Okinawa (1 daily; 2hr); Sapporo (1 daily; 1hr 50min); Tokyo Haneda (10 daily; 1hr 5min).

By train Both Shinkansen and regular trains on local lines – including the JR Seto Ōhashi line, which crosses the Inland Sea to Shikoku – stop at Okayama Station, on the western edge of downtown.

Destinations Fukuyama (every 15min; 16min–1hr); Hiroshima (every 15min; 35min); Imbe (hourly; 40min); Matsue (hourly; 2hr 30min); Shin-Osaka (every 30min; 45min); Takamatsu (every 30min; 1hr); Tokyo (every 15min; 3hr 30min); Yonago (hourly; 2hr 10min).

By bus Long-distance buses arrive either at the Ekimae bus station on the east side of Okayama Station, or the Tenmaya Bus Centre, in the shopping district 1.4km southeast. For routes and schedules, visit bit.ly/okayamabus.

Destinations Fukuoka (1 daily; 9hr); Kōbe (6–8 daily; 2hr 50min); Kōchi (9 daily; 2hr 30min); Kyoto (7 daily; 3hr 30min); Matsue (7 daily; 3hr 50min); Matsuyama (6 daily; 2hr 40min); Osaka (hourly; 4hr); Tokyo (3 daily, all overnight; 10hr 20min); Yonago (7 daily; 2hr 10min).

By ferry Ferries to Shōdoshima depart from Shin-Okayama, 10km south of town (hourly; 1hr 10min; ¥1050 each way; ryobi-ferry.com). Buses link the port with the bus and train stations in Okayama (hourly; 30min; around ¥420).

Tourist information The Momotarō Tourist Information Centre is in the underground mall outside the east exit of the train station (daily 9am–8pm; 086 222 2912, okayama-kanko.net), while there’s a smaller information counter in the station itself (daily 9am–6pm).

GETTING AROUND

By tram Trams crisscross the city. The most useful route for visitors runs east from the station along the main road, Momotarō-dōri, to the Asahi-gawa, near Kōrakuen and the castle (5min; ¥100), which is otherwise a 20min walk.

By car Car rental is available at the station from Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 084 991 0919, www.nrgroup-global.com) or Toyota Rent-a-Car 086 254 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp).

By bike Several outlets by the station rent out bicycles, from ¥300 a day.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

ANA-Crowne Plaza ANAクラウンプラザホテル 15-1 Ekimoto-chō 086 898 1111, anacpokayama.com. Plush business hotel, beside the train station and attached to the convention centre, with spacious elegant rooms, two restaurants and superb views from the twentieth-floor sky bar. Ask for a corner room, for the especially large windows, or one that faces south, looking out over the station towards downtown. ¥26,400

Mitsui Garden 三井ガーデンホテル 1-7 Ekimotomachi 086 235 1131, gardenhotels.co.jp. Significantly cheaper than most of its neighbours around the station, but not lacking in terms of quality or appearance – the lobby certainly doesn’t look three-star, and the tenth-floor public baths are even fancier. It’s worth shelling out a bit extra (¥1300 or so) for breakfast. ¥10,500

Kōraku 後楽ホテル 5-1 Heiwa-chō 086 221 7111, hotel.kooraku.co.jp. This hotel offers big, simple and stylish boutique rooms. They also have a Japanese restaurant on the second floor, and high-quality art in the public areas. ¥13,400

Lazy House レイジハウス 9-5 Kuwada-chō 090 6414 0180. All of a sudden, Okayama has plenty of hostels, and this is one of the most affordable, and one of the best at the same time. Rooms are traditionally styled, though the dorms have been given artistic flourishes – you may find yourself waking up next to Mount Fuji or a Hokusai wave. Dorms ¥2700, twins ¥7200

Maira ホテルマイラ 8-16 Nishiki-machi 086 233 1411. Small and charming hotel, attractively located beside a little canal a 10min walk southeast of the station. The rooms are large for the price, and the staff exceptionally friendly; rates include free non-alcoholic drinks and continental breakfasts. ¥6500

EATING MAP

Okayama has a wide range of eating options, and is noted for its izakaya. The liveliest districts lie immediately east of the station, and along Omotechō-shōtengai, the covered shopping street closer to the river. Local specialities include somen, handmade noodles dried in the sun and often served cold in summer, and Okayama barazushi (festival sushi), a mound of vinegared rice covered with seafood and regional vegetables.

Ajitsukasa Nomura 味司野村 1-10 Heiwa-chō 086 222 2234. One of those restaurants that almost every local will know, doling out their signature breaded pork cutlet on rice – your choice is basically whether you want it in thick demiglace sauce or with egg, and whether you’d like rosu or hire (loin or fillet). Order from the vending machine; it’ll cost around ¥1000. Tues–Sun 11am–2.30pm & 5.30–11pm.

CoMA Coffee コマ コーヒー 1-1-5 Marunouchi 086 225 5530, coma-coffee.com. Dainty little second-floor coffee joint, across from the Symphony Hall, with great views all the way down Momotarō-dōri. In addition to very good freshly brewed coffee (¥500–600), they sell sandwiches (peanut butter and jam, for example), plus coffee paraphernalia and bagged beans. Service can lag, but it’s so calm and relaxing you may not notice. You may have a little difficulty tracking down the entrance – it’s round the back. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–7pm.

Ichirin Shuzō 壱厘酒蔵 2-16 Hon-machi 086 231 0690, ichirinshuzo.com. If you’ve a taste for adventure, there’s plenty to tickle the palate at this popular izakaya, not far east of the station. How about nattō topped with raw squid and a raw quail’s egg for ¥500, or boiled eel with scrambled egg for ¥800? Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight.

Okabe おかべ 1-10-1 Omote-chō 086 232 9167, tofudokoro-okabe.com. You'll encounter all forms of tofu in this small, no-nonsense lunch restaurant, just off the shopping arcade. Recommended dishes include the ¥820 teishoku and the ¥870 yuba (tofu skin) donburi, of which they make only fifteen servings per day. Their adjoining shop sells take-away tofu until 7pm. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sat 11.30am–2pm.

Shiromi Chaya 城見茶屋 1-1-7 Kōrakuen 086 272 2920. Right by the entrance to Kōrakuen, this is surprisingly good lunch spot – not a tearoom, as the name suggests, but a pretty, river-facing place for udon (¥700) and tendon (¥1100). They usually have a couple of quirkier offerings on the menu, such as peach-and-grape curry. Tues–Sun 11.30am–5pm.

Taj-Namaste タージナマステ Misawa building, 30-10 Ekimoto-machi 086 252 5006. Great little Nepali-run curry house, painted a just-bearable orange colour, and serving good-value sets (from ¥990, including rice and huge naan if you’re there for lunch) that range from tandoori keema to fish biryani. Daily 11am–2.30pm & 5–10pm.

DRINKING MAP

Aussie Bar オーヅーバー 1-10-21 Ekimae-chō 902 290 8136. By the Nishigawa Greenway Canal, north of Momotarō-dōri – look for the yellow Aussie road sign outside – this smokey, divey spot is especially busy with foreigners at weekends. You won’t find any Fosters here, though. Daily 7pm–3am.

POTTERY IN IMBE

For dedicated lovers of ceramics, the otherwise dreary town of IMBE (伊部; often alternatively rendered in English spelling as “Inbe”), 30km east of Okayama on the local Akō railway, makes a worthwhile pilgrimage. This is the home of Bizen-yaki, Japan’s oldest method of making pottery, which first developed over a thousand years ago and had its heyday during the sixteenth century. The distinctive earthy colour and texture of the ceramics are achieved without the use of glazes by firing in wood-fuelled kilns, whose brick chimneys you’ll see dotted around town.

You can pick up an English leaflet about Bizen-yaki from the tourist office at Imbe Station (Tues–Sun 9am–6pm; 086 964 1100). Housed in the grey concrete block immediately north, the Bizen Pottery Traditional and Contemporary Art Museum (備前陶芸美術館, Bizen Dōgei Bijutsukan; 1659-6 Imbe; Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm; ¥700; 086 964 1001, bit.ly/bizenmuseum) displays ceramic work both old and new, providing an overview of the pottery’s style and development.

Simply strolling around Imbe, you’ll see fine specimens of Bizen-yaki adorning temples and homes. Plenty of kilns have attached shops where you can browse for souvenirs, while some hold studios in which you can sculpt your own blob of clay for around ¥3000. This is then fired and shipped to your home (overseas deliveries cost extra). The most convenient such opportunity comes at the Bizen-yaki Traditional Pottery Centre (備前焼伝統産業会館, Bizen-yaki Dentō Sangyō Kaikan; 086 964 1001), on the third floor of Imbe Station, which holds workshops each weekend and on holidays.

Choice Sake Center 銘酒センター 1-7-26 Ekimae-chō 050 3313 8363. A great little change of pace, this bar looks like a little like a sake shop, with bottles lining the walls – then you realise that the walls are actually refrigerators. There are varieties from all over the country to choose from, costing from just ¥200 a glass; you’ll most likely want to sample a few. Daily 3pm–midnight, sometimes closes earlier.

Magic Pan ハワイアンバー マジックパン Saiwai-chō 3-10 Hazime Tomozawa Building 086 234 2121, magicpan.net. Small Hawaiian-themed bar and restaurant doing a decent trade in colourful tropical cocktails, doled out by energetic bartenders who may have seen Cocktail one too many times – bottles of Blue Curaçao on fire and so on. Cover charge ¥300. Mon–Thurs 7pm–3am, Fri & Sat 7pm–5am, Sun 7pm–1am.

SHOPPING MAP

Maruzen 丸善 Okayama Symphony Hall, 1-5-1 Omote-chō 086 233 4640. Entered off the shopping arcade beside the Symphony Hall, the basement bookshop of this department store stocks a very extensive array of English books and magazines, stationery and Japanese language learning materials. Daily 10am–8pm.

Okayama Prefectural Local Products 岡山県観光プロダクトセンター 1-2-2 Omote-chō 086 234 2270. A good place for local foods and crafts, including Bizen-yaki pottery, masks and weaving, in the covered arcade opposite Okayama Symphony Hall. Daily 10am–8pm.

Kurashiki

倉敷

The historic town of KURASHIKI, 18km southwest of Okayama, is a hugely popular day-trip destination, and arguably even more appealing as an overnight stop. Ten minutes’ walk south of the station, its initially unpromising modern buildings and shops are replaced by a well-preserved enclave of picturesque, black-and-white walled merchants’ homes (machiya), storehouses (kura) and canals. They date from Kurashiki’s Edo-era heyday, when it became an important centre for trade in rice and rush reeds.

The compact Bikan (美観) district, cut through by a narrow, tree-fringed canal, is filled with museums and galleries, the best of which is the excellent Ōhara Museum of Art, containing four separate halls for Western art, contemporary Japanese art and local crafts. During the day, especially in summer, Bikan can all feel a bit too busy with tourists. Stay the night, and an early-morning or evening stroll can be quite magical.

Bikan

美観 • Boat rides ¥500 for 20min; get tickets from tourist office

The approach to Kurashiki’s showpiece Bikan district, 1km southeast of the station, is usually flagged by coaches unloading day-trippers. The pedestrianized avenues to either side of its willow-lined canal hold a succession of beautifully preserved merchant houses, granaries and warehouses, many of which now hold inns or restaurants, while out on the water swans drift, carp splash to the surface, and boatmen punt sightseers on short cruises.

Ōhashi House

大橋家住宅, Ōhashi-ke Jūtaku • 3-21-31 Achi • March, Oct & Nov daily 9am–5pm; April–Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–6pm; Dec–Feb Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm • ¥550 • 086 422 0007, ohashi-ke.com

The Ōhashi House, a short detour west of the main road immediately before the Bikan district, was built for a rich merchant family in 1796. The Ōhashi had prospered through salt production and land holdings, and designed their home to resemble those of the high-ranking samurai class, demonstrating how wealth was starting to break down previously rigid social barriers. After passing through a gatehouse and small courtyard, and listening to a recorded history of the house (in Japanese), you are free to wander through the spacious, unfurnished tatami rooms.

Ōhara House

大原家住宅, Ōhara-ke Jūtaku • 1-2 Chūō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 086 422 0005, ohara.or.jp

Though a new addition to the town’s roster of sights, the Ōhara House is pretty old – its main building was completed in 1795. Only opened up to the public in 2018, it’s still something of a work in progress; one of the tatami rooms on the lower level is open to view, as is the doma (a packed-earth floor room). Perhaps even more beautiful is the Ōhara family’s green-and-orange-tiled guesthouse alongside, the Yūrinsō (有隣荘), though this sadly remains inaccessible to the public.

Ōhara Museum of Art

大原美術館, Ōhara Bijutsukan • 1-1-15 Chūō • late July to Aug daily 9am–5pm, Sept to late July Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥1300 • 086 422 0005, ohara.or.jp

Beside the canal at the northern end of the Bikan district, reached via a stone bridge adorned with carved dragons, Kurashiki’s premier gallery, the Ōhara Museum of Art, is easily spotted by its creamy Neoclassical facade. This is the entrance to the original building, established in 1930 by local textile tycoon Ōhara Magosaburō to house a collection of Western art hand-picked on his behalf by his late friend, the painter Kojima Torajirō, who toured Europe during the 1920s. The first gallery to exhibit Western art in Japan, it was a roaring success, and has been expanding ever since. As well as contemporary Western and Japanese art, Magosaburō’s heirs have added ancient Chinese artworks and an excellent range of top-class Japanese folkcrafts.

Main gallery

The entrance to the main gallery is flanked by bronze sculptures of St John the Baptist and the Burghers of Calais by Rodin – both were nearly melted down to make armaments during World War II. Artists within are displayed in roughly chronological order, with early appearances by El Greco, with an Annunciation; Gauguin, with Te Nave Nave Fenua, painted in Tahiti; and Monet, with one of his Waterlilies series. Big names from the twentieth century include Picasso, Matisse and Rothko; most are represented by relatively minor works, but it’s still an impressive collection.

Craft Art Gallery

Ōhara’s ceramics rooms, housed in an attractive quadrangle of converted wooden-beamed storehouses known as the Craft Art Gallery, display beautiful and unusual works by a quartet of potters who were prime movers in last century’s resurgence of interest in Japanese folk arts (mingei). Hamada Shōji, Kawai Kanjirō and Tomimoto Kenkichi are complemented by Bernard Leach, the British potter who worked with Hamada both in Japan, at Mashiko, and in England at St Ives. A room filled with the strikingly colourful and sometimes abstract woodblock prints of Munakata Shikō follows, with the last section devoted to Serizawa Keisuke, a textile dyer and painter whose exquisite work features on kimono, curtains and fans, and who designed the gallery and the adjoining Asian Art Gallery.

Asian Art Gallery and Annex

The small collection in the Asian Art Gallery, on two levels, features displays of ancient East Asian art, including seventh-century Tang Dynasty ceramics and sculptures and serene Buddhas. The ground floor of the Annex, in a separate building behind the main gallery, displays unremarkable pastiches of Western-style art by Japanese artists, while downstairs is devoted to contemporary works.

Japan Rural Toy Museum

日本郷土玩具館, Nihon Kyōdo Gangu-kan • 1-4-16 Chūō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400 • 086 422 8058, gangukan.jp

Room after room in the delightful Japan Rural Toy Museum, beside the canal, displays an entertaining assortment of wooden dolls, dioramas, puppets and animals, most of which are faded and tatty with age and use. The tumbledown hall at the end of the garden holds some fabulous kites and masks, as well as a large top in the corner that earned the museum’s owner, Ohga Hiroyuki, a place in the Guinness World Records in 1983, after he spun it for 1 hour, 8 minutes and 57 seconds. The front of the museum is given over to an excellent gift shop.

Kurashiki Museum of Folkcraft

倉敷民芸館, Kurashiki Mingei-kan • 1-4-11 Chūō • March–July & Sept–Nov Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; Aug daily 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb Tues–Sun 9am–4.15pm • ¥700 • 086 422 1637, kurashiki-mingeikan.com

A handsome restored granary at a curve in the canal is home to the Kurashiki Museum of Folkcraft. Pay the rather steep admission fee and you can explore dry-as-dust displays of local crafts such as Bizen-yaki pottery, baskets and traditional clothes, with no English translations to explain what you’re seeing. It makes more sense to spend the money on buying the actual products instead, sold in the free-to-access shop beside the front desk – the small ceramics are particularly good value.

Hon-machi

本町

The seventeenth-century merchant houses in the Hon-machi district make a great destination for an afternoon amble. The streets just east of the canal hold cafés and artsy craft shops, while climbing up the hillside stairways into Tsurugata-yama Park (鶴形山公園) will bring you to a series of charming religious buildings.

Achi-jinja

阿智神社 • 12-1 Hon-machi • Grounds daily 24hr • Main building daily 8.30am–5pm • Free • achi.or.jp

All paths in Tsurugata-yama Park eventually lead to Achi-jinja, a shrine sitting at the top of the hill. A gentle symphony of wooden buildings, including some delightful thatch-roofed structures, it’s usually far calmer than the tourist-thronged streets below. Poke around further and you’ll find the relatively uninteresting Hon’ei-ji (本栄寺) and Kanryū-ji (観龍寺) temples.

Ivy Square

アイビースクエア • 7-2 Hon-machi • ivysquare.co.jp • Pottery sessions ¥2100

Further south in Hon-machi, the ivy-covered late nineteenth-century Kurashiki Cotton Mill has been redeveloped into a shopping, museum and hotel complex known as Ivy Square. This holds a good craft shop, as well as an atelier where you can try your hand at pottery.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KURASHIKI

By plane The nearest airport is in Okayama; buses run directly to Kurashiki (8–10 daily, 35min; ¥1130).

By train Trains on the JR San’yō line stop at Kurashiki Station, at the northwestern edge of town, which is 18km southwest of Okayama; 10km northeast of the nearest Shinkansen stop, Shin-Kurashiki; and 45km northeast of Fukuyama.

Destinations Fukuyama (every 15min; 40min); Okayama (every 10min; 18min); Onomichi (every 15min; 1hr); Shin-Kurashiki (every 15min; 6min).

By bus Regular buses from Okayama and Kojima stop in front of Kurashiki Station.

Destinations Osaka (2 daily; 3hr 50min); Tokyo (2 daily; 11hr).

Tourist information There are tourist offices at Kurashiki Station (daily: April–Sept 9am–7pm, Oct–March 9am–6pm; 086 424 1220, kurashiki-tabi.jp), and in a stylish Meiji-era wooden building beside the canal in the Bikan district (1-4-8 Chūō; daily 9am–6pm; 086 422 0542).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Kurashiki offers great opportunities to experience a traditional ryokan or minshuku, the best of which are in the Bikan district. The town is also fairly well served with upmarket Western-style hotels.

Kurashiki Ivy Square 倉敷アイビースクエアホテル 7-2 Hon-machi 086 422 0011, ivysquare.co.jp. Part of a renovated factory complex at the southern corner of the Bikan district, this is a good mid-range stay with pleasantly decorated rooms, a couple of restaurants, a bar and shops. ¥13,200

Ryokan Kurashiki 旅館倉敷 4-1 Hon-machi 086 422 0730, ryokan-kurashiki.jp. Very swanky ryokan, housed in three converted rice and sugar storehouses in the heart of the Bikan district. Each suite has a Western-style bedroom and Japanese living room full of antiques, with ever-present women in blue kimono keeping everything meticulously correct. Rates include sumptuous kaiseki-ryōri meals, served in your room – extravagant, perhaps, but the genuine article. ¥64,000

Ryokan Tsurugata 旅館鶴形 1-3-15 Chūō 086 424 1635, turugata.jp. Good-value ryokan, with atmospheric tatami rooms in a 250-year-old canalside merchant’s house, overlooking a traditional rock garden. Rates include top-class kaiseki-ryōri dinners, also available to non-residents. ¥17,800

Yoshii Ryokan 吉井旅館 1-29 Hon-machi 086 422 0118, yoshii-ryokan.com. Set back from the canal, this peaceful little inn has eight large rooms, some peering out over beautifully manicured gardens, others over a courtyard. Rates include satisfying, seafood-rich kaiseki-ryōri dinners. ¥60,000

Yuurin-an 有鄰庵 2-15 Hon-machi 086 426 1180, yururin-an.com. Charming and very welcoming Japanese-style hostel, in a venerable mansion in the Bikan district, with tasteful tatami dorms and a rather irresistible communal lounge-dining room, serving hot and cold drinks and simple meals. Rates drop for multi-night stays, and dorms are slightly cheaper on weekdays. Dorms ¥4000, doubles ¥9200

EATING MAP

Kurashiki holds a wide range of restaurants, though note that plenty of places close on Monday – visit on any other day if you want the best choice of places to eat. The best lunchtime options line up in the Bikan district, but many close in the evening, and if you’re not dining in your hotel you’re probably best off heading for the station area. The town’s signature dish is mamakari-zushi, a vinegared sardine-like fish on top of sushi rice.

Bukkake Udon ぶっかけうどんふるいち 2-3-23 Achi 086 422 2389. A fantastic, simple stop hiding in a covered arcade near the station, selling delectably creamy udon from ¥490, in a myriad of styles, hot and cold. Daily 9am–8.45pm.

Café El Greco カフェエルグレコ 1-1-11 Chūō 086 422 0297, elgreco.co.jp. Run by a delightful team of older ladies, this classic Bikan café, in an ivy-clad building facing the canal, is a popular pit stop for tea and cake. A coffee will set you back ¥500, green tea and cake ¥800, and blueberry cheesecake ¥450; seating is at shared tables. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

Kiyū-tei 亀遊亭 1-2-20 Chūō 086 422 5140, bit.ly/kiyutei. Attractive, rustic-looking steak restaurant at the head of the canal – there’s a pretty garden, but you dine indoors – which serves a seasonal set lunch or dinner for ¥3240, or a simple curry rice for ¥1200. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–9pm.

Kurashiki Coffee-Kan 倉敷珈琲館 4-1 Hon-machi 086 424 5516, kurashiki-coffeekan.com. Buzzy coffee shop, tucked away beside the canal, where you can enjoy the best espresso in town – genuine java jolts, though pricey at ¥650 – overlooking a tranquil traditional garden. Daily 10am–5pm.

Mamakari-tei ままかり亭 3-12 Hon-machi 086 427 7112, hamayoshi-kurashiki.jp. This restaurant is a great place to try the local delicacy mamakari-zushi; a set lunch including the sushi, alongside baked fish, tofu and soup, is ¥2500. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5–10pm.

Ryokan Kurashiki 旅館くらしき 4-1 Hon-machi 086 422 0730, ryokan-kurashiki.jp. Even if you’re not able to afford the ryokan, their elegant café is accessible to all, opening out onto a beautiful traditional garden complete with moss-covered rocks, gnarled pines and stone lanterns. Indulge in tea and biscuits for ¥1200, or a full lunch set for double that. Daily 11am–5pm.

Shinsui 新粹 11-35 Hon-machi 086 422 5171, k-suiraitei.com/shinsui. Menu highlights in this delightful, romantically lit dinner-only restaurant include eggy oden (from ¥160), conger eel (¥1200), and creamy, crunchy croquettes (¥800). There’s usually a jazz-piano soundtrack. Mon–Sat 5–10pm.

Tsurugata 鶴形1-3-15 Chūō 086 424 1635, turugata.jp. Even if you’re not staying in the attached ryokan, this historic canalside house makes an appealing venue for a quick lunch – a set meal with tempura noodles costs ¥1100, with eel and eggs it’s ¥1750 – or a more formal kaiseki dinner for around ¥6000. Tues–Sun 11am–2pm & 5.30–8pm.

DRINKING MAP

Kurashiki is better known for afternoon tea than late-night drinking. In summer, though, you can chill out at the beer garden in the inner courtyard of the red-brick, ivy-clad complex of Ivy Square (July & Aug daily 6–9.30pm).

Coffee Avenue アベニュー 11-30 Hon-machi 086 424 8043. Friendly coffee shop, below the temple district on a street of old merchant houses; the grand piano and vinyl-packed DJ booth signal its nightly reinvention as a jazz bar, featuring live music from 8pm (cover ¥500). Daily noon–11pm.

SHOPPING MAP

Japan Rural Toy Museum 日本郷土玩具館 1-4-16 Chūō 086 422 8058, gangukan.jp. Fronting the town’s toy museum is a well-stocked shop, which sells colourful modern versions of the traditional playthings on show further back. Daily 9am–5pm.

Kurashiki Craft Work Village クラシキクラフトワークビレッジ 1-1 Hon-machi kcwv.co.jp. Modern, faux-traditional venue hosting five stores, mostly selling clothing and fabric, all designed by local artisans – worth at least a walk through. Fri–Wed 10am–8pm.

Takahashi

高梁

The small and charming time-warped castle town of TAKAHASHI stands 45km northwest of Okayama, in the foothills of the mountains that divide western Honshū. Few visitors venture here, despite the fine old buildings and temples in the Ishibiya-chō Furusato Mura (“Hometown Village”) area, a name evoking images of a long-lost Japan. Ranged attractively at differing levels along the hillside east of the train tracks, the temples extend north towards Furusato Mura. They’re best viewed from above; the steep hike up to Bitchū Matsuyama-jō, Japan’s highest castle, rewards visitors with excellent panoramas.

The castle aside, almost all Takahashi’s sights lie within easy walking distance of Bitchū Takahashi Station and can be explored in half a day.

Raikyū-ji

頼久寺 • 18 Raikyūji-chō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300; or combo ticket

Takahashi’s most impressive temple, Raikyū-ji, is ten minutes’ walk north of the station. Its exact date of construction is uncertain, but Kobori Enshū, governor of the province and expert gardener, is known to have lived here some centuries later, from 1604 onwards. The serenely beautiful raked-gravel Zen garden that he designed is maintained exactly as he left it, complete with islands of stones, plants and trimmed azalea hedges carefully placed to resemble a crane and a tortoise in the “well-wishing garden” style, and featuring the distant borrowed scenery of Mount Atago.

Bitchū Matsuyama-jō

備中松山城 • Yamashita • Donjon daily: April–Sept 9am–5.30pm; Oct–March 9am–4.30pm • ¥300; or combo ticket • 086 622 1487, bit.ly/takahashicastle • Not served by local buses; the nearest road access (around ¥1300 by taxi from the station) leaves you with a steep 15min hike up to the castle

A strenuous hour-long hike north from the station, climbing a shaded track up through the hillside forest, will bring you to the castle, Bitchū Matsuyama-jō. Takahashi’s fortunes prospered from the mid-thirteenth century, when warlord Akiba Saburō Shigenobu built the original fortress atop nearby Mount Gagyū. It’s not really worth paying to go into the restored donjon, as there are few relics inside and poor views through its narrow windows. At 480m, this is the highest-altitude castle in Japan, and the vistas on the walk back downhill make the effort of hiking up worthwhile.

Ishibiya-chō Furusato Mura

石火矢町ふるさと村

It’s well worth spending an hour or two exploring the Ishibiya-chō Furusato Mura area of old houses and buildings. Sandwiched between the rail tracks and the Takahashi-gawa, it’s cut through by a stream that’s spanned by stone bridges topped with miniature shrines.

Buke-yashiki-kan samurai houses

武家屋敷館 • Nishi 95 • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400 for both; or combo ticket • 079 552 6933

Several buildings in the Ishibiya-chō Furusato Mura have been turned into museums. At the most interesting, the two Buké-yashiki-kan samurai houses, you can explore the residence’s various living spaces and wander around the gardens.

Takahashi Museum of History

高梁市郷土資料館, Takahashi-shi Kyoda Shiryōkan • 21 Muko-machi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300; or combo ticket • 086 622 1479

The clapboard Meiji-era Takahashi Elementary School, a small Western-style Meiji-era building 500m south of the station, now holds the Takahashi Museum of History. Exhibits range from mikoshi (portable shrines) to a Morse-code machine, with some evocative black-and-white photos of Takahashi at the back of the ground floor. On the second floor, look out for the dancing doll models made from old cigarette packets – a nod to Japan Tobacco, which has a factory in town.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TAKAHASHI

By train Takahashi’s train station, Bitchū-Takahashi (備中高梁駅), is connected with Okayama and Kurashiki on the JR Hakubi line.

Destinations Kurashiki (1–2 hourly; 27min); Okayama (1–2 hourly; 38min).

Tourist information There’s a tiny information office at the bus terminal, beside the station (daily 9am–5pm; 086 622 8666, takahasikanko.or.jp). You can buy a combo ticket for the town’s sights here (¥900), though they’re also on sale at the sights themselves.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Daichan 大ちゃん 895 Higashi-machi 086 622 5338. Thanks to its substantial portions of pancake-like okonomiyaki, a glorious fried concoction of everything under the sun which costs under ¥1000, this central restaurant is hugely popular with young locals. Daily 11am–2pm & 5–11.30pm.

Takahashi Kokusai Hotel 高梁国際ホテル 2033 Masamune-chō 086 621 0080, tkh.co.jp. The closest Takahashi comes to a reasonable business hotel, a 3min walk north of the station. Rooms are sizeable, as are the breakfasts, served in a decent on-site restaurant. Ask for a room on the opposite side to the station. ¥12,800

Kojima and around

児島

The port of KOJIMA, 30km southwest of Okayama, has boomed since the 1988 opening of the nearby 12.3km-long Seto Ōhashi (Great Seto Bridge), a series of six bridges and four viaducts that hop across the Inland Sea from island to island, all the way to Shikoku. The summit of Washū-zan on the prefecture’s southern tip offers fantastic views, while outdoor lovers might want to explore fragments of the area’s ancient history by taking the leisurely and relatively flat Kibi Plain bicycle route, which runs past fifth-century burial mounds and rustic temples and shrines. Kojima has also built up a reputation as the prime place to buy jeans in Japan; serious denim enthusiasts can shop to their hearts’ content in downtown’s Kojima Jeans Street ( jeans-street.com), 1km northwest of the station.

Seto Ōhashi

瀬戸大橋 • Boat tours 4–5 departures mid-March to Nov daily 9am–3pm; Dec to mid-March Sat & Sun 9am–3pm • 45min • ¥1550 • 086 473 6777

Boat tours from the sightseeing pier immediately east of Kojima Station offer a memorable opportunity to view the islands of the Inland Sea, and the series of bridges that make up the epic Seto Ōhashi.

If you’d rather view it all from dry land, head instead to Washū-zan (鷲羽山). The summit of this 134m-high promontory, which juts out to sea 4km south of Kojima, commands one of Japan’s most glorious panoramas. Regular buses run to the official lookout spot from Kojima Station; stay on the bus beyond Shimotsui and the tacky Washū-zan Highland amusement park (鷲羽山ハイランド), then climb to the hilltop from the car park where it terminates.

Shimotsui

下津井 • Museum Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm • Free • 086 472 1289

The “textile city” of Shimotsui, beneath Washū-zan and 4km south of Kojima, is home to the intriguing Mukashi Shimotsui Kaisendonya (むかし下津井回船問屋), a “museum of port life” that covers local fishing traditions. It’s also worth strolling around the old streets, taking in the castle ruins, the covered wells from which passing boats stocked up on fresh water, and the Gion shrine.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KOJIMA

By train Kojima is on the Seto Ōhashi line from Okayama (frequent, 20–40min; ¥500, though over double this on the express trains). Look out for the jeans-shaped ticket barriers!

Tourist information For local information in English, visit the tourist office in Kojima Station (daily 9am–5.30pm; 086 472 1289, kojima-cci.or.jp).

Fukuyama

福山

The old castle town of FUKUYAMA, 70km west of Okayama along the industrialized San’yō coast, has become the key industrial city of Hiroshima-ken’s Bingo district. Best known for its summertime extravaganza of hundreds of thousands of rose blossoms, it’s also the jumping-off point for trips to the lovely seaside town of Tomonoura.

Fukuyama Castle Museum

福山城美術館, Fukuyama-jō Bijutsukan • 1-8 Marunouchi • Tues–Sun 9am–6.30pm • ¥290 • 084 922 2117

Easily visible from passing Shinkansen (to passengers facing north), the town’s old castle has been restored, and opened up as the Fukuyama Castle Museum. In all honesty, there’s little to grab your attention, with the several floors of exhibitions all rather samey and poorly laid out, but the views from the top are rather impressive.

Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of History

広島県立歴史博物館, Hiroshima Kenritsu Rekishi Hakubutsnkan • 2-4-1 Nishi-machi • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥290 • 084 931 2513

The memorable Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of History stands at the southwestern corner of the large castle park. Built around the excavated ruins of Kusado Sengen (草戸千軒), a medieval town that became buried in the riverbed of the nearby Ashida-gawa, the museum holds some imaginatively displayed artefacts. The highlight, though, is the reconstruction of an entire village street from the lost settlement, lit to re-create twilight in May.

Fukuyama Museum of Art

ふくやま美術館, Fukuyama Bijutsukan • 2-4-3 Nishi-machi • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • Permanent exhibition ¥300, special exhibitions usually ¥1000 • 084 932 2345

The Fukuyama Museum of Art is immediately north of the history museum, and also in the castle park. Its permanent collection consists largely of Japanese art, with an emphasis on contemporary works by local artists. It does have some European works, especially from Italy, and there are some striking sculptures in the surrounding gardens.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION FUKUYAMA

By train Fukuyama Station is on both the Shinkansen and JR San’yō train lines.

Destinations Hiroshima (every 15min; 25min–1hr 20min); Kurashiki (every 20min; 42min); Kyoto (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Okayama (every 15min; 16min–1hr); Onomichi (every 15min; 19min).

By bus The bus terminal is outside the station’s south exit, with services to Tomonoura (every 30min; 30min).

Tourist information The information desk in the station has English maps and leaflets (daily 9am–5.30pm; 084 922 2869, fukuyama-kanko.com).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Forever フォーエバー 4-16 Sannomaru-chō 084 931 8388. Busy espresso bar under Setouchi Knot hostel, handy for the station and offering lots of basement seating, serving inexpensive salads and sandwiches for lunch, and oysters (from ¥480) and booze in the evening. Tues–Sat 11am–3pm & 6pm–midnight, Sun 11am–3pm & 6–10pm.

Fukuyama Oriental Hotel 福山オリエンタルホテル 1-1-6 Shiromi-chō 084 927 0888, fukuyama.oriental-web.co.jp. Mid-range business hotel, a block from the castle park 400m northeast of the train station, offering modern en-suite rooms – features include stylish desk chairs and futuristic phones – plus an indoor onsen bath. ¥14,000

Onomichi Ramen Itchō 尾道ラーメン 一丁 3-7 Sannomaru-chō 084 928 5280. A wildly popular ramen joint, just south of the station, where after-work locals flock to slurp its pork-bone broth (¥700) – full of fat, but that’s the Onomichi way. For even more of a health kick, chase your noodles down with some fried gyōza (¥350). Fri–Tues 11am–10pm.

Setouchi Knot セトウチノット 4-16 Sannomaru-chō 086 944 3245, setouchiknot.co.jp. Proof that Japan’s wave of stylish hostels has extended to the provinces, this is a wonderful place to stay, with a café-oyster bar downstairs, a welcome drink waiting for you at reception, and a series of dorms and twin rooms which have only had their lower halves painted (presumably for reasons of style, rather than neglect). Dorm beds ¥2900, private rooms ¥5000

Tomonoura

鞆の浦

The historic port of TOMONOURA enjoys a spectacular location on the Inland Sea, 14km south of Fukuyama at the tip of the Numakuma Peninsula. With its narrow, twisting streets and temple-topped hills readily explorable on foot or by bicycle, it makes a great day-trip destination. Studio Ghibli maestro Hayao Miyazaki stayed here for several months while preparing his 2008 film Ponyo, in which various local landmarks make cameo appearances.

Fishing boats still unload their catch daily beside Tomonoura’s horseshoe-shaped harbour, which can hardly have changed since the town’s Edo-era heyday, when trading vessels would wait here for a shift in the tides or rest en route to mainland Asia. Today, you’re just as likely to see locals dreaming the day away on the sea walls, rod in hand, waiting for the fish to bite (especially sakura dai, sea bream), or selling catches of prawns, squirming crabs and other seafood on the streets.

Get your bearings by climbing up to the ruins of Taigashima-jō on the southern headland, where you’ll find a small monument to the celebrated haiku poet Bashō and great views from Empuku-ji. To the west, you can admire the gentle sweep of the harbour and the temple-studded slopes of Taishiden hill, while a five-minute ferry ride to the east lies the island of Sensui-jima.

Tomonoura Museum of History

鞆の浦歴史民俗資料館, Tomonoura Rekishi Minzoku Shiryokan • 536-1 Ushiroji • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥150 • 084 982 1121, tomo-rekimin.org

From its hilltop vantage point in the heart of town, once the site of the local castle, the Tomonoura Museum of History enjoys splendid views across a patchwork of grey and blue tiled roofs that drop away to the harbour. Diverting exhibits within include a diorama of the sea bream-netting display that’s staged in the harbour every day in May, when local fishermen use age-old methods to herd the fish into their nets.

Shichikyō-ochi Ruins

七卿落ち • 8-4-2 Tomo-chō • Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥400 • 084 982 3553

Despite the name, the Shichikyō-ochi Ruins – “the ruins of the exile of the seven nobles” – is in fact a perfectly intact old sake brewery. Set amid eighteenth- and nineteenth-century wood-and-plaster warehouses that now hold gift- and coffee-shops, the building briefly sheltered a band of anti-shogun rebels during the turbulent lead-up to the Meiji Restoration.

Temples and shrines

Around a dozen temples are scattered in and around Tomonoura. The landmark Iō-ji (医王寺; 13-97 Ushiroji; 24hr; free), sitting pretty atop Taishiden hill 1km west of the centre, and reached via a steep hike up a narrow pedestrian alley, is said to have been founded in 826 AD by the revered Buddhist priest Kōbō Daishi.

Set 400m northeast at the foot of a lesser hill, Hōsen-ji (法宣寺; 11-94-3 Ushiroji; 24hr; free) occupies a site where a 14.3m-wide Tengai pine tree once stood; only a stump now remains. A few minutes’ walk northwest, the ancient shrine of Nunakuma-jinja (沼名前神社; 12-25 Ushiroji; 24hr; free) was recently rebuilt in concrete. The traditional wooden nō stage in the precinct used to be carried from battlefield to battlefield to entertain warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Fukuzen-ji

福禅寺 • 6-2-9 Tomo-chō • Daily 9.30am–5pm • Taichōrō ¥200 • 084 982 2705

The airy tatami space of the Taichōrō reception hall of the tenth-century Fukuzen-ji, immediately above the ferry terminal, features paper screens that open to reveal a striking panorama of the Inland Sea. That view has changed little since 1711, when a visiting Korean envoy hailed it “the most beautiful scenery in Japan”.

Sensui-jima

仙酔島 • Frequent sailings from Tomonoura’s ferry terminal • Daily, every 20min, 7.10am–9.30pm; 5min • ¥240 return

Clad in thick forest, the island of Sensui-jima looms out of the Inland Sea immediately east of Tomonoura. Regular year-round ferries make it simple to escape here for an hour or two, and it’s also possible to stay overnight. En route, the ferry – a bizarre-looking vessel that’s a scale model of an Edo-era steamship, the Iroha Maru – passes tiny, uninhabited Benten-jima. Little more than a solitary rock, the island is crowned by a temple dedicated to the Buddhist protector of fishermen.

From the dock near Sensui-jima’s western tip, an obvious footpath crosses to the southern shore, where the Kokuminshukusha hotel surveys the main beach. An enjoyable hiking trail sets off from there up the island’s central hill, while if you continue along the paved coastal walkway, you’ll soon reach a cliff face variously tinted black, red, blue, yellow and white. As what’s said to be the only five-coloured rock in Japan, this is regarded as a spiritually auspicious spot. The shoreline path ends a few hundred metres later at a large beach, but a side trail climbs up to join the main round-island route, which will bring you back to the dock after a total circuit of roughly 6km, or two hours.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TOMONOURA

By bus Buses leave platform 5 outside Fukuyama Station every 20min, and take around 30min to reach Tomonoura, where they stop at the Bus Centre at the north end of town (¥520) and beside the lighthouse in the port (¥550).

By ferry Ferries to Sensui-jima leave from the tiny terminal on Tomonoura’s east-facing shoreline. In addition, an excursion boat plies back and forth between Tomonoura Harbour and Onomichi on summer weekends (May–Nov Sat & Sun 4 trips daily), and irregular services also connect the harbour with the island of Hashiri-jima, 8km offshore.

Tourist information Pick up maps and brochures in Fukuyama, or in the local products shop alongside Tomonoura’s Bus Centre (daily 9am–5.30pm; 084 982 3200, bit.ly/tomonoura-tourism). You can also find useful local information at tomomonogatari.com.

Services Bikes can be rented from the car park adjoining the ferry terminal (¥300/2hr, then ¥100/30min).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Kokuminshukusha Sensui-jima 国民宿舎仙酔島 3373-2 Tomochōushiroji, Sensui-jima 084 970 5050, kokumin-shukusha.or.jp. Large resort hotel, facing the main beach on Sensui-jima island; some of its sizeable tatami and Western-style rooms have balconies. Be sure to reserve a sea-view room. A relaxing set of public baths (¥500) includes an outdoor rooftop pool. Rates include two meals; there are no TVs, and wi-fi is only available in the lobby. In summer, they also offer camping, in tents fixed to platforms on the adjacent hillside. Camping per person ¥4500, room ¥20,000

Migiwatei Ochi Kochi 汀邸遠音近音 6-2-9 Tomochōtomo 084 982 1575, ochikochi.co.jp. Tomonoura’s finest ryokan stands right at the edge of the sea, in an expanded 250-year-old building. Hugh Jackman stayed here when filming The Wolverine. Every room has its own black bamboo onsen, set on a large balcony looking out over the water, while the minimal interiors feature ultra-modern amenities. There’s also a roof terrace. Rates include full kaiseki meals. ¥57,000

Alamy

ADACHI MUSEUM OF ART

ONOMICHI’S TEMPLE WALK

A hugely enjoyable temple walk, clearly signposted from the station, undulates across the hillsides to connect most of Onomichi’s 25 temples. Completing the entire course takes at least half a day, but there are several cafés and teahouses along the way, and the route dips back down to the town centre at several points. The twin highlights are Senkō-ji, atop the westernmost hill – which can also be accessed via cable-car, if you’re looking to save time – and Saikoku-ji, up a separate slope further east. Along the “literary path”, the section of the temple walk immediately below Senkō-ji, successive stone monuments hold inscribed quotations from famous writers, and assorted Japanese-only displays honour individual authors. Just east of the station, at the entrance to the shopping arcade, you’ll encounter a bronze statue of female poet Hayashi Fumiko, who lived in Onomichi from 1917. She’s depicted crouching pensively beside a wicker suitcase and umbrella.

EATING MAP

Chitose 千とせ 552-7 Tomo-chō 084 982 3165. A friendly place just behind the car park on the town’s eastern waterfront, this spot is low on atmosphere but big on taste and value. A delicious set meal of many dishes, including the trademark catch of tai (sea bream), costs ¥2000, though more affordable is the tempura dinner (¥1100), which features an array of shrimp, octopus, squid and whitefish. Cash only. Wed–Mon 11.30am–2.30pm & 6–8.30pm.

Onomichi and around

尾道

The rough-and-ready yet charming port of ONOMICHI lies 20km southwest of Fukuyama, its gritty waterfront facing the island of Mukai-shima across a narrow channel. Visitors come to stroll between the historic temples that cling to the steep forested slopes immediately inland, and explore the alleyways of the town itself, threaded through by a venerable roofed arcade that holds some intriguing shops and old cafés. Also easy to spot are swallows, who are usually good judges of a place.

Onomichi has a big movie connection, its vertiginous byways being familiar to fans of local director Ōbayashi Nobuhiko, and of the 1950s classic Tokyo Story. It also serves as a gateway to the islands of the Inland Sea, with Ikuchi-jima and Ōmi-shima readily accessible by ferry, and active travellers use the town as a base for adventures on the island-hopping Shimanami cycling road. This heads to various islands in the Geiyo archipelago, which peppers the Inland Sea between Honshū and Shikoku; of these, Ikuchi-jima and Ōmi-shima most merit a visit. Both are accessible by ferry or along the Shimanami Kaidō, but Ikuchi-jima is the better choice for an overnight stay, and holds the dazzling Kōsan-ji complex and the exquisite Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art.

Senkōji-kōen

千光寺公園 • Temple daily 8.30am–5pm • Free • 084 823 2310 • Ropeway daily 9am–5.15pm, extended hours in cherry-blossom season • ¥320 one-way, ¥500 return • Museum of Art Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Admission depends on current exhibition • 084 823 2281

A large public park, Senkōji-kōen (千光寺公園), sprawls across the summit of Senkō-ji, the hill that looms over central Onomichi. You can reach it on the temple walk via a tangle of steep staircases, which twist up between the crags amid dense woods that are ablaze with cherry blossom and azaleas each spring. There’s also a road up, from the west, while a ropeway (cable-car) climbs from Onomichi’s central crossroads, 1km northeast of the station, dangling high over town and offering wonderful vistas.

You can enjoy even more spectacular views over the Inland Sea from the circular Observatory that crowns the very top of Senkō-ji, before perhaps pausing for tea or ice cream at its second-floor café. Just below, the Onomichi City Museum of Art stages changing exhibitions of predominantly local art.

The prime reason to come up here, however, is to visit the scarlet-painted Senkō-ji (千光寺) surrounded by jizō statues 100m below the summit. Said to have been founded in 806 AD, it long served as a landmark for passing ships, and boasts a hilltop belfry in which the huge bell tolls to celebrate New Year. The temple shop does a lively trade in devotional trinkets, particularly heart-shaped placards on which visitors scribble their prayers.

Fukuzen-ji

福善寺 • Daily 9am–5pm • Free

Fukuzen-ji, 300m northeast of the ropeway base station on the lower slopes of Onomichi’s eastern hills, dates from 1573. Its main gate is decorated with beautiful woodcarvings of cranes and dragons, while the vast spreading pine tree in its grounds is said to be shaped like an eagle. On the steps up to the temple, look out for Tile-ko-michi (Little Tile Street), a narrow hillside alleyway peppered with ceramic slabs inscribed by visitors.

Saikoku-ji

西国寺 • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 084 837 0321, saikokuji.jp

One of the largest temple complexes in western Japan, just east of Fukuzen-ji and reached via a broad staircase, Saikoku-ji is thought to have been built around 739. An enormous pair of straw sandals, each flanked in turn by a lesser pair, hang to either side of its imposing entrance gate. Pray here, in the hope you’ll find the strength to continue your journey.

Jōdo-ji

浄土寺 • Daily 9am–5pm • Temple free, garden ¥500 • 084 837 2361

The squat two-storey pagoda of Jōdo-ji, usually engulfed by pigeons, rises 1km southeast of Saikoku-ji at the eastern end of the temple walk. There’s an elegant Zen garden, with a tea-ceremony room transported from Kyoto’s Fushimi castle, hidden behind the main hall of worship.

Onomichi Movie Museum

おのみち映画資料館, Onomichi Eigashi Shiryōkan • 1-14-10 Kubo • Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–6pm • ¥500 • 084 837 8141, bit.ly/onomichi-cinema

Occupying a former rice warehouse in a very characterful part of town near the waterfront, and filled with memorabilia ranging from stills and posters to vintage equipment, the Onomichi Movie Museum makes for an enjoyable half-hour visit, even if almost nothing is translated into English. Much of Ozu Yazujirō’s 1953 classic Tokyo Story was set in Onomichi. Short films explore the connection, including one that shows shot for shot, then and now, where certain sequences were filmed. The neighbouring Onomichi Historical Museum is quite astonishingly small and devoid of interest.

ARRIVAL ONOMICHI AND AROUND

By train Onomichi Station, just back from the waterfront at the southwest end of town, is on the JR San’yō line between Fukuyama and Hiroshima. The nearest Shinkansen station – Shin-Onomichi, 3km north – is a 15min bus ride away; from here you can get to Hiroshima in just 20min.

Destinations from Onomichi station: Fukuyama (every 30min; 19min); Hiroshima (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Okayama (hourly; 1hr 20min).

By bus Buses leave from outside Onomichi Station.

Destinations Hiroshima Airport (3 daily; 1hr; ¥1130); Ikuchi-jima (10 daily; 1hr); Imabari, Shikoku (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Matsuyama, Shikoku (4 daily; 2hr 50min); Ōmi-shima (10 daily; 55min); Shin-Onomichi (1–2 hourly; 15min).

By ferry Ferries to Setoda on Ikuchi-jima leave from the jetty immediately in front of Onomichi Station (8 daily; 40min; ¥1200 one-way, plus ¥400 for bicycles). On summer weekends, there are also direct boats along the coast to Tomonoura (May–Nov Sat & Sun 4 trips daily).

By bike A healthy number of visitors to Onomichi arrive by bike, many having made their journey across the islands to the south; bikes can also be rented in Onomichi itself.

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information There’s a helpful information counter, with lots of English-language leaflets and maps, in the station (daily 9am–6pm; 084 820 0005, ononavi.com).

By bus On Sat & Sun, the Skip Line loops around central Onomichi from the station at half-hourly intervals (all-day ticket ¥500). On weekdays, local buses reach all the same destinations; the closest stop to the foot of the ropeway, Nagaeguchi, is 5min east of the station (¥140).

By bike Rental cycles are available all over town. The de facto option is to go to the large bank of bikes in the car park by the port, where a day’s rental will get you back just ¥1000, plus ¥1000 deposit, refundable if you return your bike to the same place; several local hotels rent bikes (including Hotel Cycle), though this could cost you three or even four times as much.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Anago-no Nedoko あなごのねどこ 2-4-9 Tsuchidō 084 838 1005, anago.onomichisaisei.com. Part of a project to restore empty historic buildings, this budget hostel has taken over a long, thin wooden former store that snakes back from the shopping arcade – hence the name, anago meaning “eel”. As well as simple dorm-style tatami accommodation, sharing toilets and showers (towels aren’t provided, but can be rented), there’s a café, lounge, cycle parking and bookstore. Dorms ¥2800, rooms ¥6600

Hotel Cycle ホテルサイクル 5-11 Nishigosho-chō 084 821 0550, onomichi-u2.com. Set 600m west of the station – follow the waterfront away from the town centre – this stylish modern hotel is the centrepiece of a converted warehouse complex dedicated to – but not exclusively used by – cyclists using the Shimanami Kaidō. The guest rooms are Western-style and extremely photogenic; all have twin beds and comfortable bathrooms with large baths, and there’s also a restaurant, café, bakery on site, plus bike rental and servicing. ¥18,200

Green Hill グリーンヒルホテル Onomichi 9-1 Higashigosho-chō 084 824 0100, shimanami-gho.co.jp. Western-style hotel, handily located on the waterfront just across from the train station, beside the Ikuchi-jima ferry terminal. From the outside it’s a bit of an eyesore, but the rooms, done in beige and pale woods, are bright, decently sized and relatively cheap, and there’s a good café with floor-to-ceiling sea-view windows. ¥13,500

CYCLING THE SHIMANAMI KAIDŌ

Onomichi is the northern gateway to the Shimanami Kaidō, the official name for the 60km driving route along the Nishi-Seto Expressway which hops from island to island across the Inland Sea to connect Honshū with Imabari on Shikoku. In total, it crosses six major islands via nine breathtaking bridges, including the Tatara Ōhashi between Ikuchi-jima and Ōmi-shima – which at 1480m was the world’s longest cable-stayed suspension bridge when it was completed in 1999 – and culminating with the 4km Kurushima-Kaikyō from Ōshima to Imabari, the world’s longest three-span suspension bridge.

All the bridges being open to both pedestrians and cyclists, the Shimanami Kaidō has become a hugely popular cycling route. While it’s possible to ride all the way from Onomichi to Imabari in a single day, you’ll probably enjoy it more if you take scenic detours to explore any islands that take your fancy, and spend a night or two in Ikuchi-jima (see below). Rental bikes, along with route maps and left-luggage lockers, are available at the port in Onomichi, and a dozen other locations along the way. The various bridges on the way no longer charge cycle tolls, which saves a bit of money – the ramps heading up and down have been designed with real care, and the views from the bridges are usually fantastic. For full details, visit shimanami-cycle.or.jp.

M3 Hostel エムスリーホステル 1-1 Higashigosho-chō 084 829 9330, m3hostel.com. Pretty new at the time of writing, and part of the train station complex, this is an interesting place to stay – the bunk-bed rooms are tiny but quite stylish, coming with a teeny bit of personal space, and are thus great for single travellers (they’re a bit of a rip-off if you’re travelling in a pair). You’ll pay a little more for one with a lock, rather than a curtain. Per person ¥5500

Minato-no Yado 湊のやど 1-2-24 Kubo 084 838 1007, minatonoyado.jp. Built as a hillside residence in the 1930s, a hundred steps up the stairway from central Onomichi towards Senkō-ji, this opulent, elegant house combines Art Deco flourishes with Japanese traditions. It’s now rented to visitors either in sections, sleeping 1–4 guests, or in its entirety, holding up to ten; shifting screens make the layout flexible. A glorious, spacious retreat, it holds a full kitchen, and modern bathroom with deep wooden bath. ¥46,000

EATING MAP

Onomichi is most famed for its take on ramen, in which chunks of fat – usually quite a lot of them – are suspended in a soy broth.

Akatora あかとら 2-4-43 Tsuchidō 084 822 2422. This friendly little restaurant just off the arcade in the heart of town, with counter seating as well as tatami rooms, is a great place to try local seafood specialities – though there’s no English menu. If in doubt, go for their signature kaisen-don, a ¥1650 bowl of raw fish with rice. Tues 5.30–10.30pm, Wed–Sun 11.30am–1pm & 5.30–10pm.

Becchar-no Ibukuro ベッチャーの胃袋 5-9 Toyohi Motomachi 084 837 3730. Lively central izakaya that’s a welcoming spot where you can drink and eat well after most of Onomichi has shut down for the evening. Eel is the real speciality here, costing ¥1260 broiled or ¥1800 in a hot pot, but you can also get sashimi platters from ¥980 or full set meals from ¥3000. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5pm–midnight.

Gyū-chan 牛ちゃん 2-8-6 Tsuchidō 084 822 9696. Forget the touristy places by the station, or the over-popular choices with hour-long queues to get in – this is the most reliable place in which to try Onomichi’s famed ramen (¥600). It’s also a yakiniku restaurant, so at least you know the meat on your noodles will be decent. Tues–Sun 11am–10pm.

Hanutei 帆雨亭 11-30 Higashitsuchidō-chō 084 823 2105. Delightful teahouse, tucked away in a historic home on the temple route, halfway up the stairs to Senkō-ji. Settle down in the peaceful tatami room, and enjoy green tea (¥630) and cake as you savour the sweeping views. Daily 10am–5pm.

Yasuhiro 保広 1-10-12 Tsuchidō 084 822 5639. Unsurprisingly, after over half a century in the same seafront location this friendly, family-run sushi place has a devoted local following. The ¥1650 set lunch is the best value; full dinners cost from ¥5000. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–9pm.

Yū-yū ゆーゆー 1-3-20 Tsuchidō 084 825 5505. Super little café that’s Onomichi through and through – tucked into the covered arcade, it’s housed in an old sentō bath (you can still see the old doors under the beautiful facade), and also functions as a shop of sorts. Desserts and light meals are available, but you’re best off going for the cold-brew coffee (¥650). Fri–Wed 11am–5pm.

Ikuchi-jima

生口島

Tourists flock in summer to the palm-fringed beaches of IKUCHI-JIMA, an island you may also see called SETODA (瀬戸田) after the quaint settlement at its northwest tip. Sun-kissed and covered with citrus groves, it can be comfortably toured by bicycle within a day, taking in Setoda itself, home to Kōsan-ji temple and the art museum; the separate islet of Kōne-shima, across a short bridge from Setoda; and the sweeping man-made Sunset Beach, further down the west coast towards the Tatara Ōhashi bridge. As you explore, look out for the seventeen outdoor sculptures, including a giant saxophone and a stack of yellow buckets, that comprise the “Island-Wide Museum”.

Kōsan-ji

耕三寺 • 553-2 Setoda • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1400 • 084 527 0800, kousanji.or.jp

Ikuchi-jima owes its most famous attraction, the kaleidoscopic temple complex of Kōsan-ji, to steel-tube manufacturer Kanemoto Kozo (1891–1970), who made his fortune in the arms trade. In 1936, after his mother died, the bereft Kanemoto resigned from his company, grew his hair, and set about building a temple in her honour. He bought a priesthood from Nishi-Hongan-ji temple in Kyoto, took the name of the minor Kōsan-ji temple in Niigata, and became Kōsanji Kozo. His new Kōsan-ji incorporated replicas of Japan’s most splendid temple buildings, including ten halls, three towers, four gates and an underground cave. Many of the re-creations are smaller than the originals, but Kanemoto cut no corners in terms of detail, even adding his own embellishments – most famously to his over-the-top version of the Yōmei-mon from Nikkō’s Tōshō-gū, thereby earning Kōsan-ji its nickname Nishi-Nikkō, the “Nikkō of the west”.

Senbutsudō and the Hill of Hope

千仏洞 • 未来心の丘, Mirai Kokoro no Oka

Reached from a gift-shop-lined street off the waterfront just west of Setoda’s ferry landing, Kōsan-ji’s gaudy entrance gate is modelled on one from the imperial palace in Kyoto. Head right from the main temple building, and an underground passage will lead you through the Valley of Hell, where miniature tableaux depict the horrors of damnation, and into the Senbutsudō or “Cave of a Thousand Buddhas”, home to an enraptured heavenly host. You eventually emerge beneath the beatific gaze of a 15m-tall statue of Kannon (観音), the Buddhist goddess of mercy. The Hill of Hope beyond holds unusual modern marble sculptures with names like “Flame of the Future” and “Stage of the Noble Turtle”, and offers wonderful views over Setoda.

Chōseikaku and the gallery

潮聲閣 • アートギャラリー • Daily 10am–4pm • ¥200

Kōsan-ji’s five-storey pagoda, modelled on one at Murō-ji in Nara, is the last resting place of Kanemoto’s beloved mother. Her holiday home, Chōseikaku, stands alongside. It’s a fascinating combination of Western and traditional styles – two rooms have beautiful painted panels on their ceilings and a Buddha-like model of Mrs Kanemoto resting in an alcove. Kōsan-ji’s plain-looking art gallery opposite holds sober displays of predominantly religious paintings and statues.

Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art

平山郁夫美術館, Hirayama Ikuo Bijutsukan • 200-2 Sawa • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥900 • 084 527 3800, hirayama-museum.or.jp

The Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art, next door to Kōsan-ji’s art gallery, is devoted to the Setoda-born painter Hirayama Ikuo (1930–2009). Hirayama was a junior-high-school student in Hiroshima when the bomb dropped; his Holocaust at Hiroshima can be seen in the city’s Prefectural Museum of Art. He subsequently travelled the world, becoming famous for his depictions of the Silk Road, while repeatedly returning to the Inland Sea for inspiration. Hirayama used a traditional Japanese technique for his giant canvases, working very quickly with a special fast-drying paint, iwa-enogu; the resultant brush strokes give the finished works a distinctively dreamy quality. This method requires the artist to create preparatory sketches for each picture, and many such full-sized blueprints, known as oshitazu, are displayed here alongside the completed paintings and watercolours.

Kōjō-ji

向上寺

One of Hirayama’s most beautiful paintings was inspired by the view from the summit of the hill that looms immediately behind Setoda. A small park here overlooks the attractive three-storey pagoda of Kōjō-ji, emerging from the pine trees below, with the coloured tiled roofs of the village and the islands of the Inland Sea beyond.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND IKUCHI-JIMA

By bus Buses connect Setoda with both Onomichi on Honshū and Imabari on Shikoku.

Destinations Imabari (1–2 hourly; 30min); Onomichi (1–2 hourly; 1hr).

By ferry Ferries connect Ikuchi-jima with both Onomichi (8 daily; 40min; ¥1200 one-way, plus ¥400 for bikes) and Mihara, further west along the coast, which is on both the San’yō and Shinkansen rail lines (hourly; 25min; ¥820 one-way; bit.ly/mihara-ferry).

Tourist information There’s an information booth facing the art museum in Setoda (daily 9am–5pm; 084 527 0051).

By bike It’ll take around 3hr to bike between Onomichi and Setoda. Most cyclists make use of the route heading along the north of the island; the nicest part of the route is actually a little-used section just above Setoda. In Setoda itself, you can rent bikes from the tourist information booth (¥1000/day, plus ¥1000 deposit, refundable if you return your bike to the same place).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Chidori ちどり 530-2 Setoda-chō 084 527 0231, chidori-onomichi.com. Octopus is the speciality at this smart seafood restaurant, at the main crossroads between the ferry and the temple, with a full set meal for ¥3000 and individual dishes from ¥1100. They also offer a ¥4000 lemon hot pot, containing oysters and sea bream as well, of course, as octopus. Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–4pm & 6–11pm.

Dolce Ice Cream ドルチェ 20-8 Setoda-chō Hayashi 084 526 4046. There’s almost nothing special about this ice cream parlour – other than that every single cyclist seems to stop here for a scoop or three (¥380 each); flavours include local fig. Daily 10am–5pm.

Keima 桂馬 251 Setoda-chō 084 527 1989. Highly recommended little sushi spot, offering good food at down-to-earth prices. A sizeable set lunch goes for ¥1400. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 10am–9pm.

Mansaku 万作 530-1 Setoda-chō 084 527 3028. Popular fish restaurant opposite Kōsan-ji, serving a wide range of tempura and hot-pot dishes as well as sushi and sashimi, with prices starting at ¥1300 and their signature broiled eel at ¥1800; the jakotendon, consisting of rice topped with a tempura slab of tiny fish, is maybe the best food bargain on the island at ¥800. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–3pm.

Ryokan Tsutsui 旅館つつ井 216 Setoda-chō 084 527 2221, www.tsutsui.yad.jp. Traditional establishment, right beside the ferry terminal, and run by a charming Japanese couple, with spacious, tastefully modernized tatami rooms and a deliciously invigorating lemon bath (many of Japan’s lemons are grown on Ikuchi-jima). The lobby features comfy seating and an upright, well-tuned piano. Rates include two meals. ¥24,000

Setoda Private Hostel 瀬戸田ゲストハウス 58-1 Tarumi Setoda-chō 084 527 3137. Also known as Setoda Tarumi Onsen, this no-frills hostel, south of Setoda near Sunset Beach, offers simple accommodation in tatami dorms, plus a rather amazing wood-panelled onsen set in rocks gathered from the seashore. Breakfast and dinner, rich in local seafood, cost ¥1800 extra per person. Dorms ¥4500

Ōmi-shima

大三島

The Shimanami Kaidō only dips briefly into the eastern side of ŌMI-SHIMA, Ikuchi-jima’s larger neighbour to the south, on its southward course towards Shikoku. The island is however home to one of Japan’s oldest shrines, Ōyamazumi-jinja, in the undistinguished little port of Miyaura (宮浦) on its west coast. While Ōmi-shima’s beaches are nothing special, it’s still fun to spend a half-day circling the seashore by bike.

Ōyamazumi-jinja

大山祇神社 • Miyaura 3327 • Daily 8.30am–5pm • Free • 089 782 0032

The Ōyamazumi-jinja, which dates back to the end of the Kamakura era (1192–1333), is dedicated to Ōyamazumi, the elder brother of the Shintō deity Amaterasu. Between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, it was a place of worship for pirates – its deities include one who protects sailors – who used Ōmi-shima as a base until the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi brought them to heel. The present structure, fifteen minutes’ walk from the Miyaura waterfront, dates from the late fourteenth century and features a pleasant courtyard garden.

Ōyamazumi-jinja museum

大山祇神社宝物館, Ōyamazumi-jinja Homotsukan • 3327 Ōmishima-chō Miyaura • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥1000, with Kaiji Museum • 089 782 0032

The three modern buildings that comprise the Ōyamazumi-jinja museum stand to the right of the main shrine grounds. The Shiyōden hall and connected Kokuhō-kan claim to hold the largest collection of armour in Japan – over two-thirds of all national treasures in weaponry – but only samurai freaks are likely to find its dry displays interesting.

Kaiji Museum

絵事比肩, Kaiji Hiken • 3327 Ōmishima-chō Miyaura • ¥1000, with Ōyamazumi-jinja museum • Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • 089 782 0032

The intriguing Kaiji Museum, also known as the Ōmi-shima Maritime Museum, houses the Hayama-maru, a boat built in 1935 for Emperor Hirohito, who like his son Akihito was a keen student of marine biology. Some of the sea life in the museum’s meticulously catalogued displays of fish, birds and rocks looks an awful lot like pickled aliens.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ŌMI-SHIMA

By bike The island lies almost exactly halfway between Imabari and Onomichi; it’ll take you a good 4hr either way.

By ferry Ferries connect Miyaura with Imabari (7 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min).

By bus Buses head to Miyaura from Imabari (1–2 hourly; 1hr 15min).

By ferry Ferries connect Miyaura with Imabari (7 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Ikidane Hostel いきだねホステル 7345-1 Kamiura-chō 089 772 8308, shimanami.bike. Cyclist-friendly hostel near the bridge to Ikuchijima. The place looks great, and there are plenty of places to stow your bike, but it’s hard to get around the somewhat exhorbitant prices they charge. If you’re just passing by, it’s a good stop for a meal – sets centred on fish, katsu or tempura cost ¥1000–1500. Dorm beds ¥6800, twins ¥15,000

Hiroshima

広島

Since August 6, 1945, HIROSHIMA, western Honshū’s largest city, has been a living monument to the devastating effects of the atomic bomb. Millions of visitors each year come to pay their respects at the Peace Memorial Park and museum, while the reconstructed city serves in its entirety as an eloquent testimony to the power of life over destruction. Where once there was nothing but ashes, there now stands a dynamic modern city which with its trundling trams and bustling alleyways retains an old-world feel.

Poised at the western end of the Inland Sea, Hiroshima is also the jumping-off point for several offshore islands, including Miyajima, home of the magnificent Itsukushima-jinja shrine.

Brief history

Hiroshima grew up on the delta of the Ōta-gawa; it remains very much a river city, threaded through by several waterways. During the twelfth century, the region where the city now stands was known as Gokamura (“Five Villages”). Its ruler, a scion of the Taira clan named Taira no Kiyomori, was for a while the power behind the throne in Kyoto, and commissioned the Ikutsushima shrine on Miyajima. Even after the Taira were vanquished by the Minamoto clan (or Genji), at the battle of Dannoura in 1185, Gokamura continued to grow, and it played a crucial part during warlord Mōri Motonari’s campaign to take control of Chūgoku during the latter half of the fifteenth century. When Motonari’s grandson Terumoto built his castle, the city was renamed Hiroshima (“Wide Island”) By the Meiji era the city had become an important base for the imperial army, a role that placed it firmly on the path to its terrible destiny.

A-bomb Dome

原爆ドーム, Genbaku Dōmu • 1-10 Ōte-machi

Hiroshima’s most famous landmark, the A-bomb Dome or Genbaku Dōmu, is the twisted shell of what used to be the Industrial Promotion Hall, built in 1914. Almost at the hypocentre of the blast, the hall was one of the few structures in the surrounding 3km that remained standing, its skeletal dome open to the skies. It’s been maintained ever since in its distressed state as a historical witness to Hiroshima’s suffering, and packs a powerful punch as you emerge from the modern-day hustle and bustle of the Hondōri arcade – although these days, it’s quite common to see (non-Japanese) visitors grinning away as they take selfies. There’s no entry to the dome itself.

THE BOMBING OF HIROSHIMA

As a garrison town, Hiroshima was an obvious target during World War II. Until August 6, 1945, however, it had been spared Allied bombing. That may have been an intentional strategy by the US military, so that the effects of the atom bomb, when exploded, could be fully understood. Even so that, when the B29 bomber Enola Gay set off on its mission, Hiroshima was one of three possible targets, with the others being Nagasaki and Kokura. Its fate was sealed when reconnaissance planes reported clear skies over the city.

When “Little Boy”, as the bomb was nicknamed, exploded at 8.15am, 580m above Hiroshima, it unleashed the equivalent destructive power of 15,000 tonnes of TNT. Down below, some 350,000 people looked up to see what must have looked like the sun falling to the earth. Within less than a second, a kilometre-wide radioactive fireball consumed the city. The heat was so intense that all that remained of some victims were their outlines seared onto the rubble. Immediately, 70,000 buildings were destroyed and 80,000 people killed. By the end of the year, 60,000 more had died from burns, wounds and radiation sickness; everyone within 2km of the explosion suffered severe internal organ damage. The final death toll is still unknown, the figure offered by the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum being “140,000 (plus or minus 10,000)”. By way of context, almost 20,000 people died in Tokyo on a single night of bombing in 1945.

Many survivors despaired that anything would grow again in the city’s poisoned earth, but their hopes were raised when fresh buds and blossom appeared on the trees less than a year after the blast. Since then, Hiroshima has been reconstructed to an astounding degree, and as a self-proclaimed “city of international peace and culture”, it’s now home to well over a million people, including an ever-dwindling number of hibakusha, literally “explosion-affected people”, who survived the bombing – as of 2018, a total of around 155,000 survivors who were present in either Hiroshima or Nagasaki are still alive to bear witness.

On the anniversary of the blast, August 6, a memorial service takes place in front of the Cenotaph in the Peace Memorial Park. White doves are released, and ten thousand lanterns for the souls of the dead are set adrift on the Ōta-gawa.

Peace Memorial Park

平和記念公園, Heiwa Kinen-kōen • 1 Nakajima-chō • 24hr • Free • 082 504 2390

Immediately west of downtown Hiroshima, at the northern apex of what’s effectively a narrow island, created when the Ōta-gawa divides for the last time 4km before it reaches the Inland Sea, the verdant Peace Memorial Park is dotted with statues and monuments to the victims of the A-bomb.

Memorial Cenotaph

原爆死没者慰霊碑, Genbaku Shibotsu-sha Irai Ijibumi

The main monument in the Peace Memorial Park, the Memorial Cenotaph, was designed by architect Kenzō Tange in the style of protective objects found in ancient Japanese burial mounds. A smooth arch of concrete and granite, it curves above a stone coffin that holds the names of all the direct and indirect A-bomb victims. Framed through it, along an axis that’s aligned with the A-bomb Dome and the Peace Memorial Museum, the Flame of Peace was lit in 1964, and will be put out once the last nuclear weapon on earth has been destroyed.

Children’s Peace Monument

原爆の子の像, Genbaku-no-Ko-no Zō

The deeply moving Children’s Peace Monument depicts a young girl standing atop an elongated dome, holding aloft a giant origami crane. Its base is always festooned in multicoloured garlands of origami cranes – a symbol of health and longevity – folded by schoolchildren not only from Japan but from all over the world. The tradition started when 12-year-old radiation victim Sasaki Sadako fell ill with leukaemia in 1955. She began to fold cranes on her sick bed in the hope that if she reached a thousand she’d be cured; she died despite reaching her goal, but her classmates continued after her death, and this monument was built using donations from children throughout Japan.

Monument in Memory of the Korean Victims of the Bomb

韓国人原爆犠牲者慰霊碑, Kankoku-jin Genbaku Giseisha Irei Ishibumi

The Monument in Memory of the Korean Victims of the Bomb, on the western side of the Peace Memorial Park, commemorates the estimated twenty thousand Koreans who died anonymously in the A-bomb blast. Korea was at the time occupied by the Japanese, and many Koreans had been brought over as forced labourers during the preceding decade. Only in 1970 were they officially memorialized, and even then this monolith, mounted on the back of a turtle and built in Korea, was erected outside the park; it finally moved into the park in 1999. However, those able to understand Japanese will often hear local tour guides telling their groups that Koreans “came here to work”, which is rather depressing.

Peace Memorial Museum

平和記念資料館, Heiwa Kinen-Shiryōkan • Daily: March–July & Sept–Nov 8.30am–6pm; Aug 8.30am–7pm; Dec–Feb 8.30am–5pm • ¥200, audio commentary ¥400 extra • Free tours available 10.30am–3.30pm • 082 241 4004, www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp

The Peace Memorial Museum, an essential port of call for every visitor, spreads through two large buildings at the southern end of the Peace Memorial Park. Hiroshima sees itself as the prime witness in the project to create a world without war, and the museum is the centrepiece of its endeavour; the place is often very crowded indeed, and since a great proportion of the visitors are often schoolchildren, it can actually be a little quieter on weekends.

Visitors enter the museum via the east building, where the ticket office is located and where the temporary exhibitions on the ground floor can be accessed without paying for admission. The upper floors are partly given over to displays on Hiroshima itself before and after the war – including a huge diorama of the moment of the blast, in which the bomb appears as a huge red ball suspended over the city – and partly to tracing the development and dangers of nuclear weapons.

The main building covers the events and aftermath of August 6, 1945, in shocking and gruesome detail. Cases display the pitiful possessions and torn clothing left by the dead; agonized mannequins stagger through a post-apocalyptic landscape, their skin melting away; stark photographs catalogue the effects of radiation; a stone step taken from a bank bears the silhouette of some nameless victim; and there are even pieces of bone, clumps of hair and a human tongue.

As the years go by, and fewer survivors of the bombing remain, the museum no longer schedules opportunities to meet actual hibakusha. Instead there’s an English-language lecture at 2pm daily, by a designated “A-Bomb Legacy Successor”.

Hiroshima Museum of Art

ひろしま美術館, Hiroshima Bijutsukan • 2-22 Kaminobori-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥1200, temporary exhibitions extra • 082 223 2530, hiroshima-museum.jp

Less directly connected to Hiroshima itself than the city’s other art museums, and pricier to boot, the Hiroshima Museum of Art, in Central Park just south of the castle, is arguably the one to skip if your time is limited. It does however hold a fine collection of European masterpieces, including Van Gogh’s late Daubigny’s Garden and Monet’s Morning on the Seine, as well as Western-influenced works by twentieth-century Japanese artists.

Hiroshima-jō

広島城 • 21-1 Moto-machi • Daily: March–Nov 9am–6pm, Dec–Feb 9am–5pm • Grounds free, museum ¥370 • 082 221 7512, www.rijo-castle.jp

Hiroshima’s restored castle, Hiroshima-jō, stands twenty minutes’ walk north of the Peace Park, at the northwest corner of a moated enclave that also holds the active Gokoku-jinja shrine. Originally erected in 1591, the castle became the city’s military headquarters after the Meiji Restoration in the nineteenth century. After the war – remarkable photos show it reduced to a pile of timbers, but not actually incinerated, by the A-bomb – its five-floor donjon was swiftly reconstructed in concrete, and now doubles as a superb historical museum. Excellent displays, all with good English translations, tell the story of both castle and city, and include some stunning fifteenth-century armour. If you’d rather not pay for entry to the museum, the surrounding grounds are quite beautiful, and worth a wander.

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

広島県立美術館, Hiroshima Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 2-22 Kaminobori-chō • April to mid-Oct Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–8pm; mid-Oct to March Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–7pm • ¥510, or ¥610 for joint ticket with Shukkei-en; temporary exhibitions extra • 082 221 6246, hpam.jp • Tram #9 from Hatchōbori to Shukkei-en-mae

As well as staging noteworthy temporary exhibitions, the impressive modern Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum displays its permanent collection in three galleries. Two are devoted to Japanese artists, largely with connections to Hiroshima, while one ranges more widely over art from the 1920s and 1930s. The twin highlights are the fiery, awe-inspiring Holocaust at Hiroshima by Hirayama Ikuo, who was in the city when the bomb dropped, and the floppy watches of Salvador Dalí’s surreal Dreams of Venus. In addition, the delightful Shukkei-en is right next door.

Shukkei-en

縮景園 • 2-11 Kaminobori-chō • Daily: April–Sept 9am–6pm, Oct–March 9am–5pm • ¥260, or ¥610 for joint ticket with Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum; tea and traditional sweet ¥500 • 082 221 3620, shukkeien.jp • Tram #9 from Hatchōbori to Shukkei-en-mae

Asano Nagaakira, who became daimyō of Hiroshima in 1619, laid out the Shukkei-en – literally, “shrunk scenery garden” – to present in miniature Xihu lake in Hangzhou, China. Fully restored after the war, bordered by the Kyōbashi River and centred on an artificial pond dotted with tiny islands, it’s a ravishing place for a stroll, with several charming teahouses as potential breaks. If you’d like to wander even more, there’s a great walking path nearby, running along the western bank of the Kyobashi-gawa.

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

広島市現代美術館 • 1-1 Hijiyamakoen • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • ¥370 • 082 264 1121, hiroshima-moca.jp • On Orange route of Sightseeing Loop Bus

Many of the thought-provoking works in the Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art, atop the steep little Hiji-yama 1km south of the station, were inspired by the atomic bomb. Its permanent collection, though, also includes a triptych by Francis Bacon, while the surrounding leafy Hijiyama-kōen is dotted with sculptures, including some by Henry Moore, and provides splendid views across the city.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE HIROSHIMA

By plane Hiroshima Airport ( www.hij.airport.jp) is a whopping 50km east of the city, and 35km west of Onomichi. Buses connect it with Hiroshima Station and the central Bus Centre (every 30min; 55min; ¥1340), and Fukuyama (12 daily; 1hr 5min; ¥1350); to Onomichi there are shared 9-seater buses (3–5 daily; 1hr; ¥2000), though these are a little pricey. As well as domestic flights, the airport hosts services from China, Hong Kong, South Korea and Taiwan.

Destinations Naha (1 daily; 1hr 55min); Sapporo (2 daily; 2hr); Sendai (2 daily; 1hr 20min); Tokyo Haneda (18 daily; 1hr 20min); Tokyo Narita (3 daily; 1hr 30min).

By train Shinkansen and local trains arrive at Hiroshima Station, on the east side of the centre; times given below are for the fastest services.

Destinations Fukuoka, Hakata Station (every 15min; 1hr 10min); Fukuyama (every 15min; 25min); Kyoto (every 15min; 1hr 50min); Okayama (every 15min; 35min); Onomichi (every 15min; 20min); Shin-Osaka (every 15min; 1hr 30min); Tokyo (every 15min; 4hr).

By bus Long-distance buses arrive beside Hiroshima Station; some also use the Bus Centre ( h-buscenter.com), on the third floor of Sogō department store, at 6-27 Moto-machi in the city centre.

Destinations Kyoto (3 daily; 6hr 15min); Matsue (hourly; 3hr); Okayama (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Osaka (5 daily; 5hr); Tokyo (1 daily; 12hr).

By ferry There are services to Miyajima from central Hiroshima, and more cheaply from Hiroshima Port ( 082 253 1212, setonaikaikisen.co.jp), which lies 7km south of Hiroshima Station and is served by regular trams (¥160). Hiroshima Port also has ferry connections with Matsuyama on Shikoku.

Destinations Matsuyama (20 daily; ferry 2hr 40min, hydrofoil 1hr 15min); Miyajima (8 daily; 30min).

GETTING AROUND

Hiroshima has a good public transport system, including nine tramlines and an extensive bus network as well as the zippy Astram monorail line, which goes underground in the city centre, terminating beneath the Hondōri arcade. That said, traffic can make travelling by bus or tram frustratingly slow, and it’s often quicker to get around on foot.

By tram Each journey within the city centre on the Hiroden tram network ( hiroden.co.jp) costs ¥180 (or ¥130 on the short Hakushima Line); a one-day pass is ¥600, or ¥840 all the way to Miyajima, including the Matsudai ferry (not the JR ferry or the ferry from Hiroshima Port). From the station, trams #2 and #6 head west to the Peace Park and beyond.

By bus The Sightseeing Loop Bus, also known as Hiroshima Meipuru-pu, circles between the station and the Peace Park on two distinct routes – the Orange route takes in the Shukkei-en garden, the castle and all three art museums, while the Green route passes through the temple district north of the station (free for holders of JR rail passes, otherwise ¥200 per journey, one-day pass ¥400; 082 261 0622, bit.ly/meipuru-pu).

By bike You can rent a bicycle from docking stations dotted around the city centre, including at the station, and at Peace Park. To do this most easily with a credit card (¥1080/day, or ¥162/hour) you’ll need to register online first ( docomo-cycle.jp/hiroshima); but day-passes (¥1500/day, or ¥800 after 2pm) can be purchased from hotels or kiosks around the city.

By subway Hiroshima has a cute new subway system, the Astramline (tickets from ¥190), though it’s of very little use to foreign travellers, except perhaps to get from the JR line to the sights – there’s an Astram station near JR Shin-Hakushima station, which is one stop west of the main Hiroshima station.

Car rental Companies based at the station include Eki Rent-a-Car ( 082 263 5933, www.ekiren.co.jp) and Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 084 264 0919, www.nrgroup-global.com).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Hiroshima Station holds two tourist offices, one on the Shinkansen concourse and a larger one in the underground tunnel outside the southern entrance (both daily 9am–5.30pm; 082 261 1877), while the Hiroshima Convention & Visitors Bureau has its main office in the Hiroshima Rest House, beside the Motoyasu bridge in the Peace Park (daily: March–July & Sept–Nov 8.30am–6pm; Aug 8.30am–7pm; Dec–Feb 8.30am–5pm; 082 247 6738, www.hiroshima-navi.or.jp or visithiroshima.net).

Emergencies The main police station is at 9-42 Moto-machi ( 082 224 0110).

Hospital Hiroshima City Hospital, 7-33 Moto-machi ( 082 221 2291).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Active ホテルアクティブ 15-3 Nobori-chō, Naka-ku 082 212 0001, hotel-active.com/Hiroshima. Smart, comfortable business hotel, 1km southwest of the station, across the second bridge on the tram route into the centre, and offering small but great-value Western-style hotel rooms. Rates include buffet breakfast. ¥7980

ANA Crowne Plaza ANAクラウンプラザホテル 7-20 Naka-machi, Naka-ku 082 241 1111, anacrowneplaza-hiroshima.jp. Conveniently located in the heart of the city, just across the river from the memorial, this is one of the city’s largest and finest hotels, with top-notch service. Some of its 400-plus guest rooms are very small, though; expect to pay around ¥5000 extra if you need more space. ¥19,500

Hana Hostel 広島花宿 1-15 Kojin-machi, Minami-ku 082 263 2980, hiroshima.hanahostel.com. Handy little budget option facing a temple barely 5min southeast of the station’s south exit; train noise may disturb light sleepers. As well as hostel-style four-bed tatami dorms, they offer twin and double private rooms (all with en-suite bathrooms), and rent bikes for ¥700/day. Dorms ¥2300, doubles ¥6200

K’s House ケイズハウス 1-8-9 Matoba-chō, Minami-ku 082 568 7244, kshouse.jp/hiroshima. Welcoming, well-equipped backpackers hostel, just off the main road, 10min walk southwest from the station. As well as dorms (4–6 beds) – all mixed gender – they have simple tatami rooms and private doubles exactly resembling those of a standard business hotel, along with lounge, kitchen, laundry, a cool rooftop, and lots of useful local advice. Dorms ¥2800, tatami rooms ¥8000, en-suite doubles ¥8800

RIHGA Royal リーガロイヤルホテル 6-78 Moto-machi, Naka-ku 082 502 1121, www.rihga.com/hiroshima. Soaring 33 floors, Hiroshima’s grandest hotel was designed in the image of its neighbour, the reconstructed castle. It has spacious rooms, six restaurants, two bars, a pool, a gym and a plush lobby, complete with a stunning painting of Itsukushima-jinja by Hirayama Ikuo. Breakfast is included. ¥26,000

Tokyu REI 東急REIホテル 10-1 Mikawa-chō, Naka-ku 082 244 0109, tokyuhotels.co.jp. Overlooking Peace Boulevard, this is the best choice in town at this price level, especially when rooms dip under ¥8000, as they often do. Rooms have been decorated along simple lines, and service is highly professional; the location is pretty ideal, too. ¥10,500

World Friendship Centre ワールドフレンドシップセンター 8-10 Higashi-Kannon-machi, Nishi-ku 082 503 3191, wfchiroshima.net. Run by a friendly American couple and devoted to peaceful commemoration of Hiroshima’s tragic history, this small and homely non-smoking B&B offers accommodation in simple tatami rooms, sharing a bathroom. Rates include breakfast plus an optional talk by an A-bomb survivor and a tour of the Peace Park. ¥8200

EATING MAP

Hiroshima has the finest selection of restaurants in western Honshū. As well as fresh seafood from the Inland Sea – especially oysters, which are cultivated on rafts in Hiroshima Bay – the major local speciality is okonomiyaki. The usual description of these amazing heaps of fried, concentrated goodness as being “pancakes” doesn’t begin to do them justice; skilfully assembled by quick-fire chefs, they hold the diner’s choice of noodles, cabbage, bean sprouts, meat, fish and all sorts of spices, powders and condiments. Unlike in Osaka, where all the ingredients are mixed up together, everything is painstakingly added level by level; don’t leave Hiroshima without sampling one.

RESTAURANTS

Bakudanya ばくだん屋 2-12 Shintenji 082 546 0089, bakudanya.net. Simple noodle restaurant, a few blocks south of central downtown, whose recipe for tsukemen – a spicy local take on ramen, served warm or tepid with a separate dipping sauce, and costing well under ¥1000 – has been such a hit that they now have branches all over Hiroshima, and as far afield as Hong Kong. If you’re really hungry, go for a set, which features fried oysters and a rice ball. Daily 11.30am–midnight.

Bokuden ボクデン Takata Arei Biiru, 4-20 Horikawa-chō, Naka-ku 082 240 1000, bokuden.co.jp. Glossy, late-opening Korean restaurant, on the covered arcade behind downtown’s Tenmaya department store, which centres on a large open kitchen. The menu holds something to suit most budgets, but it helps if you like your food spicy, whether it’s fiery chijimi – a kind of omelette with leeks, meat and chilli – for ¥790, or a full crab kimchi dinner for ¥2500. Daily 5pm–1am.

Hassei 八誠 4-17 Fujimi-chō, Naka-ku 082 242 8123. Bustling little place that seems to lure in every foreign visitor in town. A team of deft chefs whip up every imaginable variety of okonomiyaki; the seafood special costs ¥1300, but you can eat well for under ¥1000, and the portions are uniformly huge. Tues–Sat 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–11pm, Sun 5.30–11pm.

Kodani こだに 1-1 Kanayama-chō, Naka-ku 082 246 7201, kodani.co.jp. The menu at Hiroshima’s top eel specialist, near the Kyobashigawa, ranges from an ¥2160 eel-and-rice bowl to a large set meal for ¥5800. In winter they also serve raw and baked oysters. Mon–Sat 11.30am–2pm & 5–9.30pm.

Okonomi-mura お好み村 5-13 Shin-tenchi, Naka-ku 082 241 2210, okonomimura.jp. Budget food heaven: 25 separate little okonomiyaki counters are crammed into three upper floors of this narrow building, in the heart of the entertainment district with its own stop on the green route of the Sightseeing Loop Bus. Find a space at whichever one sets you salivating, and watch the expert chefs put their astonishing concoctions together. Hasshō on the second floor and Itsukushima on the elevator on the fourth floor are among the best in town. Expect to pay around ¥800 for a standard okonomiyaki, plus a few hundred more for special ingredients such as oysters. Daily 11am–2am.

Oyster Conclave オイスターコンクラ―ベ 11 Hashimoto-chō, Naka-ku 082 221 8990, kakitei.jp. As the name suggests, the emphasis in this small pavilion, on the riverfront walkway beside the main bridge on the tram route, is firmly on oysters, with deep fried as the best of many different styles of preparation. Set lunches and small dinner plates both go from ¥1200, though you can spend a lot more in the evening. In fine weather, you can sit outdoors by the river. Mon & Wed–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10pm.

Sawadee Lemongrass Grill サワディー レモングラス グリル 4F Mozart House Building, Chūō-dōri, Naka-ku 082 241 0066. Casual Thai restaurant above the posh Mozart cake shop and café (take the elevator at the back). The most popular dishes, all at ¥1000–1500, are tom yam kung soup and the massaman and green curries. Portions can be small and the food isn’t overly spicy, but this is the real deal. Daily 11am–2.30pm & 5–10.30pm.

Suishin 酔心 6-7 Tate-machi, Naka-ku 082 247 4411, suishin.or.jp. The original location of a veteran local seafood restaurant – they now have branches all over town, including on the sixth floor of the station – serves sushi downstairs and kamameshi (rice casseroles) upstairs. Tasty crab, eel, oyster, shrimp and chirimen (boiled, dried local fish) kamameshi cost around ¥1000, while set menus start at ¥1350 for lunch, and ¥3000 for dinner. It can get very busy, though – in which case they stay open all afternoon – and seating is limited. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–10pm.

Tempura Tenkou 天冨良天甲 5-1 Naka-chō, Naka-ku 082 242 3933, tempura-tenkou.com. The city’s most famous place for tempura, made using batter that’s considerably lighter than is usually the case, and served with curry and matcha powder for dipping. Prices get very high in the evenings, when you can easily throw down ¥6000 per head, but at lunchtime you can get a meal for under ¥1000 – a popular choice with locals, who end up clustered around the fancy red counter, watching the chefs go about their business. Tues–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 5–10pm.

CAFÉS

Musimpanen ムッシムパネン 1-16 Kanayama-chō, Naka-ku 082 246 0399, blog.musimpanen.com. It’s hard to resist the delicious-looking cakes (mostly ¥500, though the cream-filled choux are a bargain at ¥180) at this café, which has an almost entirely female clientele, plus a charming riverside location; they only have a few outdoor tables, but you can always eat your goodies by the river bank itself. Wed–Mon 10am–8pm.

Obscura Coffee Roasters オブスキュラ 3-28 Fukuro-machi, Naka-ku 082 249 7453, www.obscura-coffee.com. This stylish modern café, a short walk east of the Peace Park, has a laidback, grown-up vibe – young children are positively discouraged. As well as the best coffee in town (¥290–550), they also serve simple snacks; rather annoyingly, you have to pay 50 percent more to drink in. Daily 9am–8pm.

DRINKING MAP

Come sundown, thousands of bars, crammed into the Nagarekawa and Shin-tenchi neighbourhoods just southeast of downtown, fling open their doors.

Akamaru 赤まる 1-1-5 Matoba-chō, Minami-ku 082 264 2215. Hard-drinking salarymen heading home fill this classic, rough-and-ready izakaya, a few minutes’ walk from the station, every evening. There’s a ¥300 cover charge, but cocktails or beer cost under ¥500, and there’s a great array of snacks, with seafood treats costing around ¥400, and beef or pork skewers ¥680. Seating is on upturned beer crates, in sections divided by flimsy rattan screens. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Barcos バルコス 2F, 3F, Sanwa Building 2, 7-9 Yagenbori 082 246 5800. The place to come if you want to mingle with an international crowd, or simply have a dance, though they’re only open on weekends; ¥1000 cover gets you one drink. Fri–Sun 10pm–6am.

Chano-ma チャノマ 2F, 2-19 Honden, Naka-ku 082 730 0035. This unusually swish café-bar, set above the Cine Twin cinema, is furnished with soft mattresses swathed in whites and off-whites. They serve a full menu of cocktails, plus tea and coffee and Asian-fusion food, including pasta dishes like an excellent avocado and tuna with spicy cod roe. Lunch set menus from ¥1000. Mon–Fri noon–2am, Sat & Sun 11.30am–2am.

Molly Malone’s モーリー・マロンズ 4F Teigeki Building, Chūō-dōri, Naka-ku 082 244 2554, mollymalones.jp. This popular Irish bar is a good place to meet local expats, and the chef rustles up generous-sized portions of tasty Irish food – try the Jameson chicken or Galway mussels (¥1200). Pints of Guinness or Kilkenny go for ¥950. Tues–Thurs 5pm–1am, Fri 5pm–2am, Sat 11.30am–2am, Sun 11.30am–midnight.

New York New York ニューヨークニューヨークカフェ 7-2 Fukuro-machi 082 541 7000. Industrial-style but with hints of traditional Japan, this all-day izakaya has dim lighting and comfortable seats, with Woody Allen films often playing (unless there’s a Hiroshima Carp baseball game on). You can find just about anything on the expansive cocktail menu (all ¥500), while the food includes pastas, pizzas and snacks, from around ¥1000; alternatively, you can drink as much as you like for 100min, for ¥1800. Mon–Thurs & Sun 11.30am–midnight, Fri & Sat 11.30am–2am.

SHOPPING MAP

Kinokuniya 紀伊国屋 6-27 Moto-machi 082 224 3232. There’s a small selection of English-language books and magazines at this shop, on the 6th floor of Sogō department store. Daily 10am–8am.

Miyajima

宮島

Home to the ancient and venerated Itsukushima-jinja shrine, famous for the spectacle of its vermilion Ō-torii gate appearing to float above the tidal shallows, the island of MIYAJIMA is an unmissable excursion for anyone visiting Hiroshima. Even if you only have a few hours to spare, it’s worth venturing out here; try if you can, though, to come for the full day, or, even better, to spend a night as well, in one of its classy ryokan.

Miyajima stretches parallel to the coast for 10km, just a few hundred metres offshore and 20km southwest of Hiroshima. All the island’s major attractions, which as well as Itsukushima-jinja at sea level include the hillside Daishō-in temple plus several other temples and pagodas, are located in its principal village, beside the ferry dock near the northern tip. (Strictly speaking, Itsukushima is the island and Miyajima is the village, but the entire island is usually referred to as “Miyajima”.) The village itself is heavily commercialized but nonetheless appealing, packed with restaurants, cafés and gift shops. Among the souvenirs, the most distinctive is the Miyajima dipper (kijakushi), a wooden, lute-shaped spatula carved from local trees.

Given a bit more time, this hilly island holds much to explore. Atop its central peak, Mount Misen, reached via either a demanding hike or a mildly alarming cable-car ride, you’ll find tremendous views as well as further sacred sites and a population of monkeys, while the shoreline is fringed with beaches. The most accessible is at the Tsutsumigaura Recreation Park (包ケ浦自然公園), a 3km walk from the ferry dock around the northern headland, where the long strand slopes gently into a sea that’s ideal for paddling. Continue beyond that, and you’ll≈come to beautiful empty beaches with crystal-clear water and fantastic views.

Ideally, you’d visit Miyajima either in autumn, when the myriad maple trees turn a glorious red and gold and perfectly complement Itsukushima-jinja, or for one of its many festivals. At such times especially, the island can get very busy indeed, though no amount of crowding seems to deter its countless, theoretically wild deer from cadging and/or stealing visitors’ snacks. Also worth noting are the dirt tracks which constitute most of the island’s thoroughfares – in rainy weather, you’ll benefit from having some decent footwear.

Itsukushima-jinja

厳島神社 • 1 Miyajima-chō • Daily: Jan, Feb & mid-Oct to Nov 6.30am–5.30pm; March to mid-Oct 6.30am–6pm; Dec 6.30am–5pm • ¥300, or ¥500 with Treasure Hall • 082 944 2020

Propped on pillars and straddling the crescent bay that fronts Miyajima village, the Itsukushima-jinja shrine dates back to the sixth century. Its magnificent, bright-red, 16m-tall Ō-Torii (Grand Gate) is set 200m offshore, to denote that the entire island is a Shintō holy place. At low tide, both shrine and gate stand on exposed mudflats; when the sea rises, though, to lap beneath Itsukushima-jinja’s low-slung halls and red-colonnaded, lantern-fringed corridors, you can see why it’s called the “floating shrine”, and why this is officially ranked as one of Japan’s three most beautiful views.

Itsukushima-jinja took on its present splendid form in 1168, courtesy of the warlord Taira-no-Kiyomori, the central figure in the epic Tale of Heike. While it has been repeatedly reconstructed – the Ō-Torii no fewer than seventeen times – the classical beauty of its architecture, modelled after the shinden-style villas of the Heian period, endures. The whole ensemble is at its most enchanting come dusk, when the lights of the surrounding stone lanterns flicker on.

The shrine itself can only be entered from its northern side, a ten-minute walk south of the ferry dock. Visitors follow a route that leads past but not into various halls and subsidiary shrines, as well as the raised Taka-Butai stage, which is actually free-floating and is regularly used for performances of bugaku court dances. Across from the exit, on the south shore of the bay, the shrine’s separate Treasure Hall holds priceless sutras, scrolls and sculptures.

Senjōkaku

千畳閣 • 1-1 Miyajima-chō • Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥100 • 082 944 2020

Two remarkable structures stand atop the low hill that looms immediately north of Itsukushima-jinja. Senjōkaku, the “hall of a thousand tatami”, was erected from 1587 onwards by Toyotomi Hideyoshi as part of Hokoku-jinja, a shrine that was left unfinished after the warlord’s death. Originally a library for Buddhist sutras, this vast wooden hall, wide open to the elements and framing wonderful views, is decorated with intriguing votive plaques. Alongside it, the red-painted five-storey pagoda combines elements of both Chinese and Japanese design and dates from 1407; it’s not open to visitors.

Daishō-in

大聖院 • 210 Miyajima-chō • Daily 8am–5pm • Free • 082 944 0111, galilei.ne.jp/daisyoin

Miyajima’s main temple, Daishō-in, spreads up the hillside towards Mount Misen, south of the village. Founded in the ninth century by Kōbō Daishi, who spent a hundred days in seclusion here, it belongs to the Shingon sect of Buddhism. Especially beautiful in autumn, it holds a wonderful array of halls and shrines, along with ornate wooden pavilions, hidden passageways, formal gardens, stone lanterns, and arched bridges spanning lily-dotted ponds. Look out for the little jizō images that line the stairways, and the “universally illuminating cave”, hung with hundreds of lanterns and packed with mini-Buddhas laden with lucky talismans. The temple teahouse, accessible either side of its main gate, is a superb spot for a tranquil escape from the crowds.

MIYAJIMA FESTIVALS

As well as the regular celebrations, such as New Year, special festivals take place throughout the year on Miyajima at both Itsukushima-jinja shrine and the Daishō-in temple. See the island website for scheduled performances of bugaku (traditional court dancing) on the shrine’s central stage.

Kaki Matsuri (second Sat in Feb): Free oysters, an island speciality, are served to sightseers.

Ceremony for Kitchen Knives (March 8): Thanksgiving service for old kitchen knives that are no longer fit for use, at Daishō-in.

Spring and Autumn festivals (April 15 & Nov 15): At Daishō-in, with firewalking by the resident monks.

Jin-Nō (April 16–18): As part of the spring peach-blossom festival, sacred nō plays, first performed for the daimyō Mōri Motonari in 1568, are re-enacted on the stage at Itsukushima-jinja.

Kangensai (June 16): Itsukushima-jinja’s main annual festival includes an atmospheric night-boat parade, accompanied by traditional music.

Hanabi Matsuri (Aug 14): Western Japan’s largest fireworks display explodes over Itsukushima-jinja.

Chinkasai (Dec 31): Groups of young men fight over huge pine torches, blazing in front of Itsukushima-jinja.

Miyajima History and Folklore Museum

宮島歴史民俗資料館, Miyajima Rekishi Minzoku Shiryōkan • 57 Miyajima-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 082 944 2019

In a former merchant’s house on the south side of the village, complete with a lovely garden, the Miyajima History and Folklore Museum provides both a fascinating glimpse of nineteenth-century life on the island, and a detailed history of Itsukushima. Dioramas and displays tell the story of the 1555 Battle of Miyajima, fought in and around the shrine; as Shintō tradition forbids either birth or death near a shrine, the entire island had to be purified afterwards. Don’t miss the excellent, subtitled short movie.

Misen-san

弥山 • Ropeway Daily: March–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov 8am–5pm; Dec–Feb 9am–4.30pm • One-way ¥1000, return ¥1800 • 082 944 0316, miyajima-ropeway.info • Free shuttle buses from Momiji-dani (every 20min)

Two distinct walking routes lead from Miyajima village to the top of the island’s 530m sacred mountain, Misen-san; each takes a couple of hours, while combining the two makes for a half-day circuit. Most hikers go clockwise, and thus start by heading directly inland from Itsukushima-jinja via Momiji-dani-kōen (紅葉谷公園), a leafy hillside park. This route will also bring you in 800m to the base station for the ropeway (cable-car), which climbs 1.7km in two somewhat scary stages, with a transfer to larger gondolas for the final gorge-spanning stretch to the Shishiwa station, still well below the actual summit.

A lookout spot nearby commands stunning views across the Inland Sea. Up here, as well as the island’s usual abundant deer you’ll encounter a colony of wild monkeys. Cute as they look, keep your distance; the monkeys occasionally become aggressive.

The summit itself stands a good twenty minutes’ walk further on. At first, the path drops, but it soon climbs once more, passing assorted small temples built in honour of Kōbō Daishi. Opposite the Misen Hondō, the main hall of worship on the mountain, the Kiezu-no-Reikadō holds a sacred fire. Originally kindled by the Daishi, it has burned for over 1200 years, and was used to light Hiroshima’s Flame of Peace. Drink tea made from the boiling water in the suitably blackened iron pot that hangs over the fire, and it’s said that all your ills will be cured. Five more minutes’ climb will take you past mysterious giant boulders to the resthouse at the summit, which sells high-priced refreshments.

The main route down passes yet more small temples and provides tremendous views over Itsukushima-jinja, especially as you approach Daishō-in.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MIYAJIMA

By ferry from Miyajima-guchi The cheapest way to reach Miyajima is to take a ferry from Miyajima-guchi, the closest mainland town, 20km southwest of Hiroshima. Two separate ferries make frequent 10min crossings from neighbouring terminals: the JR Miyajima ferry (departures from Miyajima-guchi daily 6.25am–10.42pm, from Miyajima 5.45am–10.14pm; 082 956 2045, jr-miyajimaferry.co.jp), and the Miyajima Matsudai ferry (departures from Miyajima-guchi 7.15am–8.35pm, from Miyajima 7am–8.15pm; 082 944 2171, miyajima-matsudai.co.jp). Both charge ¥180 one-way, but you also have to factor in the cost of getting to Miyajima-guchi from Hiroshima. Trains on the JR San’yō line take 30min to reach Miyajima-guchi from Hiroshima Station, and cost ¥410. If you have a JR Rail Pass, though, both the train and the JR ferry are free. Alternatively, tram line 2 runs to Miyajima-guchi from central Hiroshima; travelling all the way from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi takes around an hour and costs ¥260, while a one-day pass covering all tram journeys and the Matsudai ferry costs ¥840.

By ferry from central Hiroshima Aquanet run a high-speed ferry service to Miyajima from a dock immediately across the Ōta-gawa from Peace Memorial Park (15 daily, departures 8am–5.15pm; 45min; ¥2000 one-way, ¥3600 round trip; 082 295 2666, mariho-miyajima.com).

By ferry from Hiroshima Port Setonai Kaikisen operate high-speed ferries to Miyajima from Hiroshima Port (6–8 daily, departures Mon–Fri 9.25am–4.25pm, Sat & Sun 8.25am–4.25pm; 30min; ¥1850 each way; 082 253 1212, setonaikaikisen.co.jp). They also offer sightseeing cruises that include lunch (from ¥6000) or dinner (from ¥9000). The port is 7km south of Hiroshima Station, on tram #5 from the station or tram #3 from the centre (20min; ¥160).

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information There’s an information booth in the ferry terminal (daily 9am–6pm; 082 944 2011, miyajima.or.jp).

Bike rental No cycles are available for rent on Miyajima.

Convenience stores If you’ve become used to being able to get whatever you want, whenever you want in Japan, Miyajima might spring a little surprise – there’s only one convenience store (in the ferry terminal), and it shuts at around 8pm. Most places to eat and drink also shut up shop quite early.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

While Miyajima does hold some relatively cheap accommodation options, this is a place where, if at all possible, it’s worth splashing out on an upmarket ryokan. Note that rates tend to rise at weekends, as well as during peak holiday times.

Grand Hotel Arimoto グランドホテル有もと 364 Minami-machi 082 944 2411, miyajima-arimoto.co.jp. Rooms at this sprawling hotel complex, the closest to the shrine, come in tatami or Western style (or both); some have water views and/or private outdoor onsen. Several excellent dining options are on offer, and they also put on classical music concerts and storytelling evenings. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥18,000

Guest House Kikugawa ゲストハウス菊川 796 Miyajima-chō 082 944 0039, kikugawa.ne.jp. Set back in the village a couple of minutes from the ferry, this delightful pension is clean and comfortable, and holds both Western- and Japanese-style rooms. The owner, Kikugawa-san, is an excellent chef; an American-style breakfast is included in the rates, and traditional Japanese dinners cost an extra ¥3900 per person. ¥15,400

Iwasō Ryokan 岩惣旅館 Momiji-dani 082 944 2233, iwaso.com. The most famous ryokan on the island, and by far the most luxurious, with immaculate tatami rooms (not all en suite) and sumptuous meals. Rooms overlooking the gorge behind the building are booked solid throughout autumn when the view transforms into a sea of red, yellow and orange. Rates include two meals. ¥42,000

Morinoyado 杜の宿 Omoto-Kōen, Miyajima-chō 082 944 0430, morinoyado.jp. Unusually large minshuku, at the quiet southern end of the village; the rooms are spacious and attractive (try to nab one with “forest view”), and there’s a lovely public bath. It’s hard to find a better deal on Miyajima; small wonder that the rooms, both Western and Japanese, tend to sell out well in advance. Rates include two meals. ¥24,000

Sakuraya さくらや 853-1 Miyajima-chō 082 940 2805, cs-homes.co.jp. Miyajima’s only reliable “budget” accommodation; though it’s still not what some would call cheap, the tatami rooms here are half the price of most places hereabouts, and don’t look any less attractive. One difference is the public bath, which isn’t terribly charming, but hey – it’s still a bath! ¥11,000

EATING MAP

The bustling village holds lots of daytime restaurants and cafés, but almost everything shuts down in the evening, and most visitors dine at their hotels. The main local specialities are oysters, sold fried or grilled at the stalls lining the road south of the ferry terminal, and anago, a long eel-like fish, served broiled and sliced on top of rice (anagoburi).

Fujitaya ふじたや 125-2 Miyajima-chō 082 944 0151. This refined, busy restaurant, on the village street that leads up to Daishō-in, is the most famous place to sample anago. A large serving of anagoburi, accompanied by soup and pickles, costs ¥2500; there are no other choices, bar a couple of side-dishes. Daily 11am–3.30pm.

Kishibe きしべ 483-2 Miyajima-chō 082 944 0002. Excellent, dinner-only okonomiyaki option hidden in the back-streets. The meals go from ¥550–800, and being one of the last places on the island to close, it’s also a popular watering hole. Fri–Wed 5–9pm.

Sarasvati サラスバティ407 Miyajima-chō 082 944 2266, sarasvati.jp. Brimming with bags of coffee and grinders, set in a former granary with dark woods and brushed cobalt walls, this stylish café nails the industrial-rustic look. It’s a great place to kick back over an excellent blended coffee (¥350–550). They also serve sandwiches, scones (¥790 with orange juice and coffee for breakfast) and set lunches of oysters and pâté (¥1300). Daily 8.30am–8pm.

Yakigaki-no-Hayashi 焼がきのはやし 505-1 Miyajima-chō 082 944 0335, yakigaki-no-hayashi.co.jp. Hugely popular lunch spot on the main Omote-sandō shopping street, serving top-quality oysters, cultivated on their own beds and available all year. You can have them baked, raw, fried, or with egg on rice (all ¥1400), or for a little less you can have them on soba. Other staple mains are available too, as well as fresh grilled eel. Sun–Tues & Thurs–Fri 10.30am–5pm, Sat 10.30am–5.30pm.

Iwakuni

岩国

Heading south along the coast from Miyajima, you soon cross the border into western Honshū’s last prefecture, Yamaguchi-ken. The first potential pause is the pleasant old castle town of IWAKUNI, 40km southwest of Hiroshima and home to a US marine base, as well as a remarkable bridge, a scattering of samurai houses and a mildly interesting museum. Also noteworthy as a good spot to watch the ancient practice of cormorant fishing, Iwakuni can be comfortably explored within a couple of hours.

Kintai-kyō

錦帯橋 • Open 24hr; illuminations stay on until 10pm • ¥300; usually operates on honesty system from 5pm–8am

Like a tossed pebble skipping across the water, one of Japan’s top three bridges, the elegant five-arched Kintai-kyō, spans the rocky Nishiki-gawa 2km west of central Iwakuni. Daimyō Kikkawa Hiroyoshi ordered its construction in 1673, hoping to solve the problem of crossing the Nishiki-gawa during its frequent floods. His first bridge was promptly washed away during the rainy season of 1674, but the second attempt – a 210m-long structure built without a single nail and bound together with clamps and wires – survived until it was swept away by Typhoon Kijiya in 1950. What you see today is therefore an impressive reconstruction, from 1953. For once, the hordes of tourists, parading across the steep wooden arches like figures in an ukiyo-e print, add to the overall attraction. It looks even more wonderful at night, when it’s glamorously floodlit.

CORMORANT FISHING

If you stay overnight in Iwakuni between June and August, you may see cormorant fishing (ukai), taking place on the Nishiki-gawa beside the bridge. This colourful and exciting method of fishing with birds can be watched from the pebbly riverbank for free, between 6.30pm and 9pm nightly.

Kikkō-kōen

吉香公園 • Park 24hr, Chōko-kan (徴古館) Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Free

A grassy landscaped park, Kikkō-kōen, adjoins Kintai-kyō on the west bank of the Nishiki-gawa. Once the estate of the ruling Kikkawa clan, it still preserves some of its original layout and buildings. Immediately ahead of the bridge, on the right, stands the Nagaya-mon (長屋門), the wooden gate to the home of the Kagawa family, samurai to the Kikkawa daimyō. You can wander around several other samurai houses nearby, while the Chōko-kan, at the north end of the park, holds a mildly interesting collection of old maps and plans from feudal times, photos and prints featuring the bridge through the centuries, as well as craftwork from Iwakuni’s past.

Kikkawa Historical Museum

吉川史料館, Kikkawa Shiryōn • 9-3 Nichome • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 082 741 1010

The Kikkawa Historical Museum, alongside Kikkō-kōen park, holds artefacts from the family collection of the Kikkawa warlords. The weapons on show include a multitude of swords, and you can also peer at samurai armour, jewellery and hanging scrolls. However, all the explanations are in Japanese.

Shiro-yama

城山 • Ropeway daily 9am–5pm • ¥320 one-way, ¥550 return • Castle daily 9am–4.45pm • ¥260, or ¥940 on combined ticket with ropeway and bridge • 082 741 1477

Iwakuni’s castle hill, Shiro-yama, looms above the northern edge of Kikkō-kōen park. You can get up there either on a forty-minute hike that starts beside the youth hostel, or via a ropeway (cable-car) from the park. The impressive view of the meandering river, town and Inland Sea from the summit makes the effort worthwhile. The castle itself though, which holds further displays of armour and swords, plus a miniature wooden model of the Kintai-kyō, isn’t really worth entering.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION IWAKUNI

By train Trains on the JR San’yō line stop at Iwakuni Station, east of the bridge (1–3 hourly; 15min; ¥240) though essentially in the city centre, while Shinkansen stop at Shin-Iwakuni Station, in a nondescript area some way west of the bridge (1–3 hourly; 10min; ¥350).

Tourist information There’s a tourist office immediately east of the bridge (daily 8.30am–5pm; 082 729 5116, kankou.iwakuni-city.net).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

There’s no real need to stay in Iwakuni, since you can be in and out, having seen all sights, within a few hours; budget travellers, in particular, are advised to stay in Hiroshima instead.

Iwakuni Kokusai Kankō 岩国国際観光ホテル 1-1-7 Iwakuni 082 743 1111, www.iwakunikankohotel.co.jp. Large riverfront property, close to the bridge, that’s popular with groups, and offers Japanese- and Western-style rooms as well as public indoor/outdoor onsen and a gift shop. Meals cost quite a bit extra. ¥15,000

Kofudō 光風堂 2-4-26 Yokoyama 082 741 2100, facebook.com/kofudou. A slightly odd café, just opposite the Kikkawa Historical Museum: part craft shop, occasional gallery, and set in a wooden house surrounded by verdant garden. You can have coffee, ginger tea and the like from ¥600, with cakes and curry on offer too. Prices are a bit high; if that’s an issue, there’s a slightly cheaper place around the corner. Thurs–Tues 9.30am–5pm.

Shiratame Ryokan 白為旅館 1-5-16 Iwakuni 082 741 0074, siratame.justhpbs.jp. Iwakuni’s best ryokan is exceptionally pretty inside (if a little lame-looking from outside), with rooms overlooking the bridge. Rates include two meals. ¥31,200

Shiratame Soba しらためそば 1-4-38 Iwakuni 082 741 0074. Under the same ownership as Shiratame Ryokan, and facing the bridge to the east, this is undeniably a tourist trap, but one of those tourist traps which is actually really good. It’s a good place to try such local fish dishes as Iwakuni-zushi, a block of vinegared rice topped with bits of cooked fish and vegetables; sets including a bowl of soba or udon cost from ¥1080. Daily 9am–5pm.

Yamaguchi and around

山口

The coastal route west of Iwakuni is blighted by heavy industry, but head inland to the hills, a couple of stops off the Shinkansen line, and you’ll come to sleepy YAMAGUCHI. Sometimes fancifully known as the “Kyoto of western Japan” (don’t expect anything too similar), Japan’s smallest prefectural capital is a modern city, but with its waterways, green hills and unhurried pace, it has a certain old-world charm.

Yamaguchi’s commercial heart is the point where Ekimae-dōri, the main street heading northwest towards the hills from the station, crosses the Komeya-chō shopping arcade. All the main highlights lie to the north, including the fifteenth-century temple garden of Jōei-ji, designed by the artist and priest Sesshū; the handsome five-storey pagoda at Rurikō-ji; and St Francis Xavier Memorial Cathedral, an ultra-contemporary church commemorating the first Christian missionary to Japan. Nearby attractions include the hot-spring resort neighbourhood Yuda Onsen, just one train stop west, and the intriguing caverns and rocky plateau of Akiyoshi-dai Quasi National Park, 20km northwest.

Brief history

Many of the temples around Yamaguchi, not to mention its artistic sensibilities, date from the late fifteenth century, when war raged around Kyoto, and the city became an alternative capital for fleeing noblemen and their retinues. The tolerant ruling family of Ōuchi Hiroyo, who settled in the area in 1360, allowed the missionary Francis Xavier to stay in Yamaguchi in 1549. By the Edo period, the Mōri clan had gained power over the whole of western Japan, and several Mōri lords now lie buried in Kōzan-kōen.

St Francis Xavier Memorial Church

サビエル記念聖堂, Zabieru Kinen Seidō • 4-1 Kameyama-chō • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–5pm, mass Sun 9.30am • ¥300 • 083 920 1549, xavier.jp

The 53m spires of the modern St Francis Xavier Memorial Church poke conspicuously from the trees atop the Kame-yama-kōen hill, north of central Yamaguchi. The church was named after the pioneering Basque missionary Francis Xavier who, having already had success in Goa and Malacca, landed in Japan on August 15, 1549, and in the following year was granted leave to preach in Yamaguchi. When he left, six months later, the city had a community of more than five hundred Christians, many of whom later died for their beliefs under the less tolerant Tokugawa government. A church was erected here in 1952 to commemorate the four-hundredth anniversary of Xavier’s visit, but it burned down in 1991. It was replaced in 1998 by this striking contemporary structure, which incorporates a main building with a tent-like roof designed to resemble a tabernacle, as well as twin square towers topped by metallic sculptures, one hung with nine bells.

Rurikō-ji

瑠璃光寺 • Kōzan-kōen • Temple 24hr • Free • Exhibition hall Daily 9am–5pm • ¥200 • 083 924 9139

The charming Rurikō-ji temple complex stands in the foothills 1km north of Kame-yama-kōen, roughly half an hour’s walk from Yamaguchi Station. Its beautifully preserved five-storey pagoda, designated one of the top three in the country, is made from Japanese cypress and picturesquely sited next to an ornamental pond. A small exhibition hall beside the temple holds a diverting collection of model pagodas, photographs of the other 53 pagodas scattered around Japan, and strange masks.

Kōzan-kōen

香山公園 • Kōzan-chō • 24hr • Free

With its peaceful and atmospheric graveyard, the park of Kōzan-kōen, alongside Rurikō-ji, is a traditional Japanese place of worship. It’s also the last resting place of the daimyō Mōri Takachika and his family. Takachika was a key figure in planning the overthrow of the Tokugawa government in 1867, and the park holds a couple of old wooden houses where he secretly met fellow plotters.

Sesshū-tei

雪舟庭 • 2001 Miyano-shimo • Garden and temple Daily: April–Sept 8am–4.30pm; Oct–March 8am–4pm • ¥300 • 083 922 2272 • 10min walk north of Orimoto, the closest bus stop

The enchanting Sesshū-tei garden at the Jōei-ji temple (常榮寺) was created by the priest and master-painter Sesshū, who was born in Okayama-ken in 1420 and studied the arts in China. He settled in Yamaguchi towards the end of the fifteenth century, and was asked by the daimyō Ōuchi Masahiro to create a traditional garden for the grounds of his mother’s summerhouse. Sesshū’s Zen-inspired rock and moss design remains intact behind the temple, and, if you’re fortunate enough not to coincide with a tour group, you’ll be able to sit in quiet contemplation of the garden’s simple beauty, looking for the volcano-shaped rock that symbolizes Mount Fuji. The surrounding forest and lily pond add brilliant splashes of colour, particularly in autumn, when the maple trees flame red and gold.

Yuda Onsen

湯田温泉

The spa resort of Yuda Onsen, one train stop or a short bus ride southwest of Yamaguchi, can be readily spotted by its cluster of large and not particularly attractive hotels. A cute legend about a white fox curing its injured leg in the natural spring water explains the origins of both the onsen and the town’s mascot, immortalized by an 8m-tall cartoon-like fox statue beside the station.

Onsen-no-Mori

温泉の森 • 4-7-17 Yuda Onsen • Daily 10am–midnight • ¥1000

The resort’s main public bath, Onsen-no-Mori, stands just north of the large central crossroads in its commercial district, a straightforward ten-minute walk northwest of the station. It’s a modern spa complex holding several jacuzzi baths, plus saunas and a rotemburo.

Kamefuku Hotel

湯田温泉かめ福ホテル • 4-5 Yudaonsen-dōri • Daily 11.30am–8pm • ¥2200 • kamefuku.com

The Kamefuku Hotel, roughly 300m east of Onsen-no-Mori via the central crossroads, also holds good spa facilities, with individual turtle-shaped baths outside, and some “quirky” decorative features in the indoor section.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YAMAGUCHI AND AROUND

By plane Yamaguchi Ube Airport ( www.yamaguchiube-airport.jp), 35km southwest near the coastal city of Ube, is served only by flights from Tokyo’s Haneda airport (10 daily; 1hr 35min), though plans for expansion have long been mooted. Buses run from the airport to Shin-Yamaguchi Station (9 daily; 40min) and Yamaguchi Station (6 daily; 45min); Kusae station, on the JR line, is also just outside the airport.

By train Yamaguchi is on the JR Yamaguchi line, which connects the closest Shinkansen station, 13km southwest at Shin-Yamaguchi (新山口), with the north-coast town of Masuda.

Destinations Masuda (8 daily; 1hr 5min–2hr); Shin-Yamaguchi (every 20min; 22min); Tsuwano (8 daily; 50min–1hr 20min); Yuda Onsen (every 20min; 3min).

By bus All buses stop in front of Yamaguchi Station.

Destinations Akiyoshi-dai (19 daily; 55min); Hagi (12 daily; 1hr 20min); Shin-Yamaguchi (6 daily; 40min).

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information The tourist office in Yamaguchi Station has English maps and leaflets (daily 9am–6pm; 083 933 0088, yamaguchi-city.jp). There’s also an information counter at Shin-Yamaguchi Station.

By bike There are plenty of local buses, but the easiest way to get around is to rent a bicycle from the Fukutake shop opposite the station (¥300/2hr, ¥700/day; 083 922 0915).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

CITY CENTRE

Matsudaya 松田屋ホテル 3-6-7 Yudaonsen-dōri 083 922 0125, matsudayahotel.co.jp. Cocooned by high walls, this historic 300-year-old ryokan, 1km north of Yuda Onsen Station on the main road through the resort, ranks among the very finest accommodation options in the west of Chūgoku. Ignore the modern high-rise extension, and opt for one of the elegant, sprawling tatami rooms, plus tasty meals and a peaceful, traditional garden. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥35,000

Sunroute International サンルート国際ホテル 1-1 Nakagawara-chō 083 923 3610, sunroute.jp. Business-oriented chain hotel in a handy central location, a 15min walk north of Yamaguchi Station at the crossroads near Kame-yama-kōen. The spiffy rooms are smartly decorated and have decent amenities. ¥10,600

Taiyō-dō 太陽堂 2-3 Komeya-chō 083 922 0897. Surprisingly large, good-value ryokan, entered from the east side of the Komeya-chō shopping arcade. Tatami rooms with shared bathrooms, plus a small central garden. ¥7000

YUDA ONSEN

Green Rich グリーンリッチホテル 4-7-11 Yuda Onsen 083 923 6000. Modern hotel just north of the central crossroads in Yuda Onsen, offering spacious and comfortable rooms with good amenities, and copious Japanese breakfast for ¥550. There’s also cut-price (¥450) admission to Onsen-no-Mori next door. ¥9300

EATING MAP

Most of the restaurants in Yamaguchi are clustered along Ekimae-dōri and the Komeya-chō arcade, while a few cafés dot the riverside beyond the arcade. Many shops sell the local speciality, uirō, a glutinous sweet made from pounded rice, said to have been a favourite of the ruling Ōuchi clan six centuries ago.

CITY CENTRE

Hondaya Kaikoan 本多屋 懐古庵 1-4-5 Eki-dōri 083 925 1600, kaikoan.com. Primarily a confectionery shop, this bright, roomy store, across the road from Yamaguchi Station, makes a lovely calm setting to unwind over fresh green tea and cakes; it’s ¥700 for a matcha-mochi set. Thurs–Tues 9am–6pm.

Wasabi 和さび 1-3-2 Eki-dōri 083 921 5636. Cheap and cheerful sushi stop near Yamaguchi Station, with decent cuts of fish starting at ¥280. The menu’s in Japanese only; there’s a sushi reader at the back of this book. Thurs–Tues 11am–2pm & 5–10pm.

Xavier Campana サビエル・カンパーナ 5-2 Kameyama-chō 083 923 6222. This mouthwatering bakery and restaurant serves a wide range of breads, cakes, salads and various European meals, including German-style dishes, fondue and pasta; it’s ¥1580 for a lunchtime all-you-can-eat “Viking”. The bakery, downstairs, also sells take-away snacks like udon cake (¥200). Daily 7.30am–7pm.

YUDA ONSEN

Sakanaya Hidezo 魚屋ひでぞう 1-1-22 Aoi 083 920 0380. Friendly little restaurant at the main crossroads in Yuda Onsen, serving good-value sushi and sashimi plates, made with local seafood and costing around ¥1500, as well as succulent grilled chicken for under ¥1000. Daily 5.30–9.30pm.

Akiyoshi-dō

秋芳洞 • Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥1200 • 083 762 0304, karusuto.com

The vast caverns and rock-strewn tablelands of the Akiyoshi-dai plateau occupy a remote area roughly 30km northwest of Yamaguchi and the same distance southwest of Hagi on the northern coast. The main attraction of this bleak landscape is the largest limestone cave in Japan, Akiyoshi-dō. In total it stretches around 10km underground, only a tenth or so of which is open to the public. Its main entrance is five minutes’ walk from Akiyoshi-dō bus station, along a pedestrianized street packed with gift shops.

A raised walkway through a copse of lofty, moss-covered pine trees provides an atmospheric introduction to the gaping cavern mouth. Allow around an hour to follow the route inside, though you may find that the booming amplified voices of competing tour-group leaders, combined with unimaginative lighting, detract from the overall impact. It took more than 300,000 years of steady erosion and dripping to create the rock walls and formations, which have been given names like “Big Mushroom” and “Straw-Wrapped Persimmon”.

From the bowels of the earth, an elevator whisks you up to the alternative cave entrance Yano-ana, a short walk from Akiyoshi-dai, Japan’s largest karst plateau. A lookout point commands an impressive view of rolling hills, while various hiking trails enable you to explore the surrounding 130 square kilometres.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION AKIYOSHI-DŌ

By bus Regular buses run from nearby towns. JR Rail Passes cover the JR bus service from Yamaguchi.

Destinations Higashi-Hagi (2 daily; 1hr 10min; ¥1800); Shimonoseki (8 daily; 1hr 50min; ¥1730); Shin-Yamaguchi (7–9 daily; 43min; ¥1170); Yamaguchi (4–6 daily; 1hr; ¥1210).

Tourist information There’s an information counter inside the bus centre (daily 9am–6pm; 083 762 1620).

Shimonoseki and around

下関

The port of SHIMONOSEKI stands at the southern tip of Honshū, at the head of the narrow Kanmon Channel, which separates Honshū from Kyūshū, and is also known as the Straits of Shimonoseki. These waters played a major role in Japanese history, as the site of the twelfth-century battle of Dannoura, and over a thousand ships each day continue to sail through one of Asia’s busiest maritime crossroads. Shimonoseki these days is thriving, thanks in part to its daily ferry link with Busan in South Korea, and its waterfront now holds a state-of-the-art aquarium as well as the colourful ancient shrine of Akama-jingū.

Shimonoseki is also notorious as the home port of Japan’s whaling fleet. By no coincidence, Japan’s Prime Minister Shinzō Abe, a vocal supporter of whaling, represents the city in the House of Representatives. Various vessels – including the world’s only whaling factory ship, the 8145-tonne Nisshin Maru – sail from Shimonoseki to Antarctica each winter, returning with the carcasses of minke whales. Although the whales were supposedly slaughtered for research purposes only, whale meat was continually sold at Shimonoseki’s fish market, and served in many local restaurants; in 2019, Japan withdrew from the International Whaling Commission, and then resumed officially commercial whaling for the first time in thirty years.

SAMURAI CRABS OF SHIMONOSEKI

The naval battle of Dannoura, fought in the Straits of Shimonoseki in April 1185, was the decisive confrontation of the Genpei War between the Taira (also known as the Heike) and Minamoto (or Genji) clans. The war had broken out five years earlier, when Taira Kiyomori, the villain of the epic Tale of Heike, declared his infant grandson Antoku to be the 81st Emperor of Japan. Since then, the Minamoto, who felt they had a stronger claim to the imperial throne, had pushed the Taira ever further west.

Skilled sailors, the Taira made their desperate final stand in the waters off Shimonoseki. The tide, however, turned against them, and so too did some of their allies. Perceiving the battle to be lost, Antoku’s grandmother clasped the 8-year-old emperor to her breast and leaped into the sea, with the immortal words “there is another capital beneath the waves”. Many of the court followed suit, and certain imperial regalia was lost as well, including by some accounts the kusanagi-no-tsurugi, or “grass-cutting sword”, though that’s also said to be at the Atsuta shrine in Nagoya. The leader of the victorious clan, Minamoto Yoritomo, celebrated by declaring himself Shogun, and thus established the shogunate, which ruled Japan for the next seven hundred years.

Local fishermen, meanwhile, believed the battle site was haunted, and claimed to see the faces of defeated Heike warriors staring from the shells of crabs caught off Shimonoseki. So-called heikegani crabs do indeed bear an eerie resemblance to angry samurai; prime specimens are displayed (and sold) at the Akama-jingū shrine. Scientist Carl Sagan, on the TV series Cosmos, famously cited the phenomenon as an example of human-aided evolution, arguing that centuries of throwing “samurai crabs” back into the sea had resulted in such crabs breeding in ever greater numbers.

Akama-jingū

赤間神宮 • 4-1 Amidaiji-chō • 24hr • Free; museum ¥100 suggested donation • 083 231 4138

Painted in a magnificent palette of vermilion, gold and pale-green, the hillside Akama-jingū shrine stands just above the coast road 2.5km east of Shimonoseki Station. Dedicated to the 8-year-old emperor Antoku, who drowned during the battle of Dannoura, this was built as a Buddhist temple to appease the souls of the dead Taira warriors. It was originally known as Amida-ji, and was renamed Akama-jingū when it became a shrine in the Meiji period, after Shintō and Buddhism separated.

Look back through the Chinese-style arched gate at the temple entrance, and it frames a view of the straits where the battle was fought. Antoku’s small mausoleum is near the foot of the stairs, while the main shrine, which encloses a small pool of limpid water, is directly ahead. Tucked away to the left, beyond a small museum of armour and scrolls, a graveyard holds fourteen ancient tombs of notable Taira warriors, along with a small statue of the blind and deaf priest, Hōichi Miminashi – the “earless Hōichi” immortalized in one of the Irish writer Lafcadio Hearn’s most famous ghost stories.

Karato

唐戸

The twenty-first century has seen a transformation of Shimonoseki’s waterfront Karato district. While a handful of handsome brick and stone buildings still survive along the main road – among them the former British Consulate, now a teahouse – the docks and warehouses nearer the sea have largely been swept away. An appealing pedestrian promenade now runs along the water’s edge. The busy fish market is still there, and nearby a double-decker London bus advertises an open-air amusement park equipped with a giant Ferris wheel. The centrepiece of this redevelopment project, though, is the enormous Shimonoseki Marine Science Museum, a huge hit with Japanese tourists.

Karato Fish Market

唐戸市場 • Daily 5am–3pm • 083 231 0001, karatoichiba.com

Teeming Karato Fish Market is a cavernous place, and an integral part of Shimonoseki’s economy. The market starts each day supplying bulk orders to wholesalers, then turns its attentions to selling sashimi platters from 10am onwards. It’s now complemented by the large Kanmon Wharf, a two-storey shopping centre that’s much more geared towards meeting the needs of visitors, with gift stores downstairs and some great restaurants on its upper level.

Shimonoseki Marine Science Museum

市立しものせき水族館海響館, Shiritsu Shimonoseki Suizokukan Kaikyōkan • 6-1 Arukapōto • Daily 9.30am–5.30pm • ¥2000 • 083 228 1100, kaikyokan.com

Despite the name, the enormous Shimonoseki Marine Science Museum is much more of an aquarium than it is a museum. Although it holds some remarkable displays, many visitors consider its live dolphin and seal shows sufficient reason to boycott the place altogether.

If you do choose to enter, highlights include an extraordinary tank designed to replicate the swirling waters of the Kanmon Channel outside, which you can walk right through via a glass-roofed tunnel; an indoor/outdoor penguin exhibit; some colossal fish from the Amazon River; and what’s said to the world’s largest collection of puffer fish. There’s also a complete skeleton of a blue whale, donated by that other bastion of whaling, Norway.

Kaikyō-yume Tower

海峡ゆめタワー • 3-3-1 Buzenda-chō • Daily 9.30am–9.30pm • ¥600, or ¥300 on presentation of a non-Japanese passport • 083 231 5600, yumetower.jp

The Kaikyō-yume Tower, a 153m-high observation tower, made of glass and resembling a giant golf tee with a ball resting on top, soars ten minutes’ walk east of Shimonoseki Station. The tower is at its most impressive at night, when the interior glows green and points of light dot its spherical observation deck, which as well as offering tremendous views holds a couple of restaurants.

SENTEISAI MATSURI

The extraordinary Senteisai Matsuri festival is staged in the courtyard of Akama-jingū on May 3 and 4 each year. Preceded by a procession through the streets of Shimonoseki, it commemorates the legend that, from 1186 onwards, the surviving women of the Taira court would mark the anniversary of Emperor Antoku’s death by making a ceremonial pilgrimage to his shrine. According to some accounts, they were forced to turn to prostitution after the defeat of their clan, and came here to purify themselves. The participants’ costumes are breathtaking; in particular, it takes months of training to learn to walk in their utterly impractical clogs

Hino-yama

火の山 • Ropeway Late March to Nov daily 10am–5pm • One-way ¥300, round-trip ¥500 • 083 231 1838 • Served by hourly buses from Shimonoseki Station • Tunnel Daily 6am–10pm • Free

Starting alongside the Kanmon Bridge, a kilometre-long pedestrian tunnel makes it possible to walk under the straits to Moji, on Kyūshū. Alternatively, a number of trails, plus a ropeway (ie, cable-car) lead uphill from the bridge to the 268m summit of Hino-yama. Especially dramatic as sunset approaches, the view from the top takes in the whole of the Kanmon Straits, as well as the islands to the west of Shimonoseki.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE SHIMONOSEKI AND AROUND

By train Shimonoseki station is beside the port at the west end of town and is only served by local trains on the JR San’yō line. The nearest Shinkansen station is Shin-Shimonoseki, 9km north and two stops away on the San’yō line; it’s a contender for ugliest and most boring Shinkansen station in the country.

Destinations (from Shimonoseki station): Chōfu (every 20min; 14min); Shin-Shimonoseki (every 20min; 8min); Shin-Yamaguchi (every 20min; 1hr 10min).

Destinations (from Shin-Shimonoseki station): Fukuoka (Hakata station; every 30min; 27min); Hiroshima (hourly; 1hr 15min); Shin-Yamaguchi (2–4 hourly; 19min–1hr).

By bus Long-distance buses stop in front of Shimonoseki Station.

Destinations Akiyoshi-dō (8 daily; 1hr 50min); Osaka (1 daily; 10hr); Tokyo (1 daily; 15hr 30min).

By ferry Although the fastest route to Kyūshū is by train or road across Kanmon suspension bridge, traditionalists can still make the 5min ferry hop between Karato Pier, 1.5km east of Shimonoseki Station, and Moji on Kyūshū’s northwest tip (every 20min; ¥400; 083 222 1488, kanmon-kisen.co.jp). Ferries to and from Busan in Korea (daily; 12hr) use the Shimonoseki Port International Terminal, just south of Shimonoseki Station.

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information There are tourist offices at Shimonoseki Station (daily 9am–6pm; 083 232 8383, www.city.shimonoseki.lg.jp), and beside the Shinkansen exit in Shin-Shimonoseki Station (daily 9am–6pm; 083 256 3422).

By bus Shimonoseki stretches for several kilometres east along the waterfront from the station, so local buses can be useful. Buses from platforms 1 and 2 outside the station call at Akama-jingū and Hino-yama en route to Chōfu (¥390). A one-day bus pass costs ¥720.

By bike Rental bikes, costing around ¥500/day, are available at Shimonoseki Station, and at the youth hostel.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Grand グランドホテル 31-2 Nabe-chō 083 231 5000, sgh.co.jp. A comfortable upmarket hotel, commanding a prime seafront location beside Karato Pier, with Western-style rooms and a couple of restaurants – one French, one Japanese. ¥12,000

Hino-yama Youth Hostel 火の山ユースホステル 7-1 Mimosusogawa-chō 083 222 3753, e-yh.net/Shimonoseki. Fine hostel, overlooking the Kanmon Bridge almost 5km east of the station, a 2min walk downhill from the Hino-yama ropeway. Accommodation is in bunk-bed dorms or private twins, and the friendly English-speaking manager is a reasonable cook, preparing breakfast for ¥540, lunch for ¥650 and dinner for ¥1200. From Shimonoseki Station, catch a bus either to the ropeway, or to Mimosuso-gawa, a 10min walk away at the base of Hino-yama. Note there’s a 9.30pm curfew. Dorms ¥3500, rooms ¥8000

Kaikyō View 海峡ビュー 3-58 Mimosusogawa-chō 083 229 0117, kv-shimonoseki.com. From its vantage point on Hino-yama, this low-rise concrete block enjoys fantastic views across the Kanmon Channel. There’s a choice of spacious tatami rooms (not all en-suite) or Western-style suites. Rates include two meals. ¥23,000

EATING MAP

The major emphasis in Shimonoseki is on seafood, with good restaurants in the Sea Mall near the station and the Kanmon Wharf mall by the port, and lots of fugu specialists in the old streets. To avoid inadvertently eating whale meat, look out for クジラ肉 (kujira niku) on menus. Thanks to the ferry link with Busan, there are also several Korean restaurants, especially yakiniku (barbecue) places, in and around the “Green Mall”, a series of covered side-streets just north of the station.

Sushi Yukan すし遊館 Kanmon Wharf, Karato 083 228 1722, kamonwharf.com. This superb conveyor-belt sushi place, with sea views from the second floor of Kanmon Wharf, is much better than the equivalent operation on the second floor of the fish market nearby. Typical plates of squid or mackerel cost around ¥230, while pricier handmade rolls and mixed platters are prepared on request. Daily 11am–9.30pm.

Tsukasa つか佐 4-6 Akama-chō, Karato 083 231 4129, tsukasa-shimonoseki.com. Excellent traditional fish restaurant, set back amid the tangle of old streets north of the port, where a team of motherly waitresses serves hearty set lunches at weekends for ¥1950. Otherwise kaiseki dinner menus start at ¥5400; be warned, though, that the “Three Major Special” option includes whale as well as fugu. Tsukasa is hard to find, incidentally; if you give up, settle for one of the many izakaya you’ll pass en route. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 5.30–10pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–3pm & 5.30–10pm.

Yabure Kabure やぶれかぶれ 2-2-5 Buzenda-chō 083 234 3711, yaburekabure.jp. The large plastic fugu hanging outside this place, on the shopping parade east of the station, tells you what to expect. All four of its ¥3240 set lunches focus on fugu – one comes with porridge – while dinner menus, featuring every imaginable variation on the theme, start at ¥5400. Thurs–Tues 11am–10pm.

Yakiniku Yasumori 焼肉やすもり 2-1-13 Takezaki-chō 083 222 6542, y-yasumori.com. A fine yakiniku restaurant. Order plates of raw meat and vegetables to sizzle on a tabletop cooker (from ¥1250, though smaller lunch sets go for ¥800). The menu also features Korean staples such as bibimbap (rice and vegetables in a stone bowl), reimen (the Japanese word for soba-like Korean cold noodles) and sundubu (spicy tofu broth). While you’re paying, check out the photos of Shinzō Abe, who dined here a couple of times. Fri–Wed 11am–midnight.

Chōfu

長府

It’s well worth making the short excursion from Shimonoseki to neighbouring CHŌFU, an old castle town of the Mōri family. One of the joys of Chōfu is its relative lack of tourist development; as you wander round its authentic enclave of samurai houses and streets, sleepy temples and lovely garden, it’s easy to feel that you have slipped back several centuries.

THE FERRY TO SOUTH KOREA

The 12-hour Kampu Ferry service to Busan in South Korea ( kampuferry.co.jp) leaves daily at 7.45pm from the Shimonoseki Port International Terminal, five minutes’ walk from Shimonoseki Station. The ticket booking office is on the second floor of the terminal building (daily 9am–6pm; 083 224 3000); the cheapest one-way, second-class ticket costs ¥9000 for the tatami resting areas, or ¥12,500 for a bed in a cabin, plus a fuel surcharge (¥610 at the time of writing) and ¥1000 departure tax. There’s a twenty percent discount for students, and a ten percent discount on a return ticket, though it’s still cheaper to buy another one-way ticket in Busan, where the vessel leaves daily at 9pm.

As one of the cheapest routes in and out of Japan, the ferry is often used by foreigners (often working illegally) who need to renew their tourist visas. For this reason, the immigration officials at Shimonoseki have a reputation for being tough on new arrivals. Note that if you need a visa for South Korea, you must arrange it before arriving in Shimonoseki; the nearest consulate is in Hiroshima.

FUGU

Shimonoseki is famous for its fugu, the potentially deadly blowfish or globefish, which provides inspiration for many local sculptures and souvenirs of spiky, balloon-shaped fish. It is known in Shimonoseki as fuku, homonymous with the character for fortune and wealth, in order to attract good luck and happiness. Around half Japan’s entire national catch (3000 tonnes a year) passes through Haedomari, the main market for fugu, at the tip of the island of Hiko-shima, 3km west of Shimonoseki Station.

Chomping on the translucent slivers of the fish, which are practically tasteless, you may wonder what all the fuss is about. However, it’s the presence of tetrodotoxin – a poison more lethal than potassium cyanide – in the fugu’s ovaries, liver and a few other internal organs, that make this culinary adventure both dangerous and appealing. Fugu chefs train for up to seven years before they can obtain a government licence to prepare the fish. Even so, a small number of diners do die, the most famous fatality being kabuki actor Bandō Mitsugorō – a national treasure – who dropped dead after a globefish banquet in Kyoto in 1975; in 2018, the missile alert system kicked in to warn residents of Gamagori, a town near Nagoya, after the liver was accidentally left in five packs of supermarket fugu.

Chōfu-teien

長府庭園 • 8-11 Kuromo • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥200 • 083 246 4120

The elegant garden Chōfu-teien, at the south end of Chōfu and just over 4km northeast of the Kanmon bridge, makes a civilized introduction to the town. Laid out during the Taishō era for the ruler of a Mori clan, it holds several teahouses dotted around an ornamental pond and babbling river.

The castle district

Kōzan-ji 1-2-3 Chōfukawabata • Daily 9.30am–4.30pm • Free • Chōfu Museum 1-2-5 Chōfukawabata • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • ¥200 • 083 245 0555

Chōfu’s original castle district begins a short walk north of the garden. Head inland at the next turning, and you’ll come to a compact cluster of old samurai houses, shielded by wooden gates and crumbling earthen walls, topped with glazed tiles, with the roads bordered by narrow water channels. Further up the hill, in a leafy glade approached by a broad flight of stone steps, is the Mōri family temple, Kōzan-ji (功山寺). Dating from the fourteenth century, it’s the oldest Zen temple in the country. Alongside, the small Chōfu Museum (長府博物館) holds beautiful scrolls decorated with calligraphy and intriguing old maps.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE CHŌFU

By train Frequent trains from Shimonoseki run to Chōfu’s train station, at the north end of town 4km from the samurai district (every 20min; 14min).

By bus Buses to Chōfu (every 15min; 25min; ¥390) run from outside Shimonoseki Station; buy a ¥720 one-day pass if you’re making the return trip. For Chōfu-teien, get off at Shiritsu Bijutsukan-mae (市立美術館前); for the samurai district, head uphill from the Jōka-machi (城下町) stop.

EATING

Shō 祥 2-1-6 Chōfukawabata 083 245 0080. Delightful café-cum-shop in a century-old kimono emporium, where the gracious hosts serve tea and coffee with cakes for ¥500. The delicious chocolate cake comes on indigo china plates and is decorated with a gold maple leaf. They also sell set lunches for around ¥1200, plus kimono, pottery and colourful knick-knacks. A large red-paper umbrella, just downhill from Kōzan-ji, marks the entrance. Daily 9am–6pm.

Hagi

萩

The unspoiled historic town of HAGI, in a spectacular setting on Honshū’s northern shores 85km northeast of Shimonoseki, dates back to 1604, when warlord Mōri Terumoto built his castle at the tip of an island between the Hashimoto and Matsumoto rivers. Follow the waterfront route here from Shimonoseki, along the sparsely populated San’in coast, and you’ll encounter a marvellously bleak and rugged shoreline, where the savage Sea of Japan has eroded the rocks into jagged shapes.

Hagi is a delightful place to spend a little time, with a similarly relaxed, friendly atmosphere to other towns in Yamaguchi prefecture. Much of its charm lies in the potential for meandering strolls or bike rides along its attractive plaster-walled streets. Although the castle is long ruined, the atmospheric graveyards of the Mōri daimyō, the layouts of the samurai and merchants’ quarters – Horiuchi (堀内) and Jōka-machi (城下町) – and the temple district of Tera-machi (tera means “temple”) remain, with several significant buildings intact.

Hagi is also renowned for its pottery, Hagi-yaki – only surpassed, according to connoisseurs, by Kyoto’s raku-yaki; you can barely move around town without coming across a shop selling the pastel-glazed wares.

The one drawback is that while Hagi has the feel of a small town, its attractions are very spread out. All three train stations lie across the rivers from the town centre, half an hour’s walk from the samurai district or castle area. That said, with a rental bike, you can easily take in the most important sights in a day and still have time to crash out on the fine beach beside the castle.

Shizuki-kōen

指月公園 • Daily: March 8.30am–6pm; April–Oct 8am–6.30pm; Nov–Feb 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥210, including entry to Mōri soldiers’ residence; tea at teahouse ¥500 • 083 825 1826

The dramatic wooded headland at Hagi’s western tip is dominated by a 143m-high hill, Shizuki-yama. Down below, on its town-facing side, a public park, Shizuki-kōen, holds the broad moat and sloping stone walls of Hagi-jō (萩城), all that remains of the castle destroyed when Mōri Takachika shifted court to Yamaguchi in 1874. In addition to six hundred resplendent cherry trees, its former grounds are home to the rustic Hananoe teahouse, the atmospheric Shizuki-yama shrine, and the Hagi-jō Kiln, which contains a great shop.

YOSHIDA SHŌIN

The charismatic Yoshida Shōin was born into a Hagi samurai family in 1830. When the industrialized world came knocking at Japan’s door in 1853, in the insistent form of Commodore Perry, Yoshida believed that the only appropriate response for his self-isolated, military-ruled country was to ditch the Tokugawa Shogunate, reinstate the emperor and move swiftly to emulate the ways of the West. To this end, he attempted, together with a fellow samurai, to leave Japan in 1854 on one of Perry’s “black ships”. However, he was handed over to the authorities, who imprisoned him in Edo (Tokyo) before banishing him back to Hagi.

Once at home, Yoshida didn’t let up in his revolutionary campaign to “revere the emperor, expel the barbarians”. From 1857, he was kept under house arrest in the Shōka Sonjuku (now within the shrine grounds of Shōin-jinja), where he taught many young disciples, including the future Meiji-era prime minister Itō Hirobumi. Eventually, Yoshida became too big a thorn in the shogunate’s side and he was executed in 1860, aged 29, for plotting to assassinate an official.

Five years later, samurai and peasants joined forces in Hagi to bring down the local Tokugawa government. This, and similar revolts in western Japan, led to Yoshida’s aim being achieved in 1868 – the restoration of the emperor to power.

Immediately east of the castle, the town beach, Kikugahama (菊ヶ浜), is officially only open for swimming between mid-July and mid-August. At other times, you’ll have to watch out for jellyfish. Alternatively, a hiking trail leads to the top of the hill in around twenty minutes, while less energetic visitors may prefer to relax beside the quiet cove peppered with modern sculptures on the park’s western side.

A long wood-and-plaster tenement building south of Shizuki-kōen contains the Mōri residences, where soldiers of the clan once lived. You can’t go inside, but from the path outside you can peer into the various rooms and imagine daily life two centuries ago.

Horiuchi

堀内

High- and low-ranking samurai, along with rich merchants, once lived in Hagi’s picturesque Horiuchi quarter, where the narrow lanes are lined by whitewashed buildings decorated with distinctive black-and-white lattice plasterwork. In season, you’ll notice the natsu mikan (summer orange) trees heavily laden with fruit behind the high stone and mud walls; these were planted in 1876 as a way for the newly redundant samurai to earn money.

Kikuya-ke Jūtaku

菊屋家住宅 • 1-1 Gofuku • Daily 8.30am–5.15pm • ¥600 • 083 825 8282

The most interesting of the various houses in Horiuchi that are open to the public, the Kikuya-ke Jūtaku, was built in 1606 for a wealthy merchant family, and is one of the oldest such houses in the country. It’s a large complex, so be sure to explore its every nook and cranny, including the former shops as well as the museum towards the back, which holds some intriguing scrolls and maps. The crowning glory, though, is the unexpectedly sizeable formal garden, which you can admire from the main tatami guest room.

Takasugi Shinsaku Kyūtaku

高杉晋作旧宅 • 2-9-3 Minami Furuhagi-machi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥100 • 083 822 3078

The walled compound known as Takasugi Shinsaku Kyūtaku was the birthplace in 1839 of Takasugi Shinsaku, a leading figure in the nineteenth-century fight to restore the emperor to power. Photos and calligraphy tell the story of a man who, like his mentor, Yoshida Shōin, died tragically young, albeit of tuberculosis rather than execution, a year before the Meiji Restoration in 1867.

Hagi Uragami Museum

萩浦上記念館, Hagi Uragami Kinen-kan • 586-1 Hiyako • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥300 • 083 824 2400, www.hum.pref.yamaguchi.lg.jp

Housed in a huge modern building just across the waterways from the oldest parts of town, the Hagi Uragami Museum centres on a collection of several thousand ukiyo-e woodblock prints, including works by Hokusai and Hiroshige. These exhibits are complemented by displays covering the tools and processes employed in ukiyo-e printmaking, and galleries devoted to pottery from Korea and China as well as more contemporary local ceramics.

Across the rivers

The remainder of Hagi’s sights lie across the two rivers which make an island of the town centre; the bulk of them are clustered around Shōin-jinja, which is accessible from Higashi-Hagi train station, though you’re still likely to spend quite a bit of time getting from A to B.

Daishō-in

大照院 • 4132 Oazatsubaki Oumi • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥200 • 083 822 2124

Set at the foot of a wooded hill just above the south bank of the Hashimoto-gawa, 2km west of Hagi Station, the Daishō-in temple was built after the death of Mōri Hidenari, the first lord of the Hagi branch of the Mōri clan. A rickety gate at its entrance leads to a lantern-filled graveyard, similar to that at Tōkō-ji, where you’ll find the corresponding tombs of all the even-numbered generations of Mōri lords. Hidenari himself also lies here, along with eight samurai who committed seppuku (ritual suicide) on his death.

Shōin-jinja

松陰神社 • 1537 Chintō • Temple Daily 8am–5pm • Free • Yoshida Shōin History Museum (吉田松陰歴史館) Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • Residence Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 083 822 4643

Hagi’s largest shrine – Shōin-jinja, dedicated to the nineteenth-century scholar and revolutionary figure Yoshida Shōin – stands 1km southeast of Higashi-Hagi Station, on the mountain side of the Matsumoto-gawa. Within its grounds are the Shōka Sonjuku (松下村塾), the small academy where Yoshida lived and taught during his final years; the Yoshida Shōin History Museum, illustrating various scenes from his life; and the residence where he was held under house arrest following his attempt to leave Japan in 1854.

Tōkō-ji

東光寺 • 1647 Chintō • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥300 • 083 826 1052, toukouji.net

Following the riverside cycle path uphill from the Shōin-jinja shrine brings you to a family temple of the Mōri clan, Tōkō-ji, which was founded in 1691. There’s a Chinese flavour to its many handsome buildings and gates. Look out for the giant wooden carp gong that hangs in the courtyard, as you walk behind the main hall towards its atmospheric graveyard, packed with neat rows of more than five hundred moss-covered stone lanterns. Here you’ll find the tombs of five Mōri lords, all odd-numbered generations, save the first lord buried with the even-numbered generations in nearby Daishō-in. During the Obon (Aug 15), the lanterns are lit to send off the souls of the dead.

Continue uphill behind the temple and you’ll come to Tanjōchi (誕生地), the birthplace of Yoshida Shōin, marked by a bronze statue of the samurai revolutionary and one of his followers. Take in the view of the town before heading back down, past the small thatched home of Itō Hirobumi (伊藤博文旧宅), another Yoshida disciple who later became prime minister and drafted the Meiji constitution.

Yoshiga Taibi Kinen-kan

吉賀大眉記念館 • 425-1 Chintō • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500, pottery-making ¥2200, with advance reservation • 083 826 5180, taibi-hagi.jp

Yoshiga Taibi Kinen-kan, 1.3km north of Higashi-Hagi Station along the coastal route Highway 191, ranks among Hagi’s most respected pottery kilns. The attached museum displaying an outstanding collection of Hagi-yaki. If you book ahead you can make your own pottery, which will be fired and sent to you for an extra fee after a couple of months. Unlike some other kilns, they’re happy to mail pottery abroad.

Kasa-yama

笠山

North of Hagi Station, the coast road passes through several succesive fishing villages, where squid hang drying on lines like wet underwear. The narrow promontory around 6km along was formed by a small volcano, now extinct and known as Kasa-yama. Down at sea level, beside a small shrine and set back from the Myōjin-ike (明神池), a saltwater pond teeming with fish, is an interesting natural phenomenon: the Kazeana, a shaded glade cooled by cold air rushing from cracks in the lava. Take the road that winds up to the summit, and you can enjoy panoramic views along the coast, and inspect the 30m crater, one of the tiniest in the world.

Alamy

TOTTORI

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE HAGI

By plane Iwami Airport ( 085 624 0010, hagiiwami.jp), 60km east along the coast outside Masuda, is served only by flights from Tokyo’s Haneda (2 daily; 1hr 30min) and Osaka’s Itami airports (1 daily; 1hr); a connecting bus (1hr 20min; ¥2070) runs to Hagi bus station.

By train Hagi has three train stations, spaced around its periphery, with services from all three stations, all of which are connected to Masuda (5 daily; around 1hr 20min). Be careful: the most useful is not Hagi but Higashi-Hagi (東萩駅), immediately northeast of the centre. Tamae (玉江駅), two stops west of Higashi-Hagi, is more convenient if you’re staying near Hagi-jō, or plan a quick visit to the castle area, while Hagi lies in between the two. All are on the San'in line. Note that if you’re travelling to Hagi from Shimonoseki, the scenic route along the coast is much slower than the cross-country JR Mine line, which heads inland from Asa, 40km northeast of Shimonoseki on the JR San’yō and Shinkansen lines.

By bus Long-distance buses ( bochobus.co.jp) stop at the bus station in the town centre, near the Tamachi shopping arcade, a short walk east of Jōkamachi.

Destinations Akiyoshi-dai (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Kyoto (1 daily; 13hr); Osaka (1 daily; 12hr); Shin-Yamaguchi (12 daily; 1hr 10min); Tokyo (1 daily; 14hr 30min); Tsuwano (5 daily; 1hr 45min).

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information There are helpful tourist information booths at Higashi-Hagi (daily: March–Nov 9am–5.45pm, Dec–Feb 9am–5pm; 083 825 3145, hagishi.com) and Hagi (same hours; 083 825 1750) stations.

By bus Two buses – nishi mawari (西回り; west) and higashi mawari (東回り; east) – loop around the entire town and its attractions (every 30min, daily 7am–6pm; ¥100 per ride).

By bike Several shops at Higashi-Hagi Station offer bike rental from ¥200/hr, ¥1000/day.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Hagi Honjin 萩本陣 385-8 Chintō 083 822 5252, hagihonjin.co.jp. Though somewhat out of the way, perched on a low hill beyond Shōin-jinja 1.6km southeast of Higashi-Hagi Station, this features fabulous rotemburo baths, a monorail up to a viewpoint over the city, beautiful tatami rooms and exquisite meals. A great place to get away from it all. Prices include half-board. ¥22,000

Hagi Kanko 萩観光ホテル 1189-541 Chintō 083 825 0211, hagikan.com. Lovely ryokan, perched on the next headland north of Hagi, 1km below the summit of Kasayama. The spacious tatami rooms have tremendous views across to the town and towards misty islands scattered beyond, and the onsen has indoor and outdoor pools. You can book a room only, but there’s nowhere else to eat nearby. Call ahead for the free shuttle service to and from Higashi-Hagi Station, 5km south. Rates include two meals. ¥19,500

Hagi Royal Intelligent Hotel 萩ロイヤルインテリジェントホテル 3000-5 Chintō 083 821 4589, hrih.jp. This business hotel may look dated (despite the name, which sounds a bit sci-fi), but it’s really pretty good, and has the huge advantage of being right next to Higashi-Hagi Station. As well as an onsen with rotemburo, it offers a large art gallery and fitness centre. Rates include breakfast. ¥8100

Hostel Hagi Time ホステルはぎタイム 20 Kawara-machi 083 821 7286, hagitime-en.jimdo.com. Clean, modern and very welcoming hostel in an unexpected white clapboard house, on the edge of the historic Horiuchi district at the west end of the central shopping arcade. Rental bikes available for ¥500/day. Dorms ¥2600, rooms ¥6000

Tomoe 常茂恵 Hijiwara 083 822 0150, tomoehagi.jp. Wonderful ryokan, a short walk from Higashi-Hagi Station, where guests enjoy Japanese hospitality and cuisine, presided over by Keiko, a charming local who speaks good English. The entire place exudes a cool Zen minimalism, with the 25 extremely well-equipped suites overlooking raked-gravel gardens. ¥44,400

EATING MAP

Hagi is strangely short of restaurants, but you’ll find a number of cheap noodle bars and fish restaurants around the central Tamachi shopping arcade and the main cross street, Route 262. The local speciality is shirasu (whitebait); in spring, you’ll see fishermen on the Matsumoto-gawa sifting the water with giant nets hung from their narrow boats.

Don-don どんどん 377 Hijiwara 083 822 7537. Bustling, inexpensive noodle joint near the Hagi-bashi across the Matsumoto-gawa. Bowls of udon noodles go from ¥460 (there’s a handy picture menu), though pay a little more and you can have it served with taki-kome gohan (vegetable rice) and pickles. Daily 9am–9pm.

Hagi Shinkai 萩心海 370-71 Hijiwara 083 826 1221, hagishinkai.com. You can’t fail to spot this high-class seafood restaurant, topped by a lighthouse and standing just across the river from Higashi-Hagi Station. Expect to pay around ¥2500 for a meal of mixed sashimi or squid; if you’re looking for a treat, they serve a special fugu (blowfish) set menu for ¥12,960 from Oct–March, and switch to harame (flounder; ¥8640) in summer. Daily 11am–2pm & 5–9pm.

Kimono Style Café キモノスタイルカフェ 2-39 Gofuku-machi, Jōka-machi 083 821 7000, kimono-raison-d-etre.com. Café, souvenir shop and kimono experience all in one, in a house near Kikuya-ke Jūtaku. You can simply admire the mini-garden and enjoy a ¥700 cake-and-coffee or mocha set, served by waitresses in kimono – simple snacks like soup or soba noodles are also available – or dress up in traditional style, with a “kimono rental experience” from ¥2990. Daily 10am–6pm.

SHOPPING MAP

Hagi-jō Kiln Inside Hagi-jō castle 083 822 5226. One of the best places in which to buy Hagi’s famous ceramics is in the castle itself – and it’s probably the most atmospheric too. The wares here are nothing short of exquisite. Daily 8am–5pm.

Tsuwano

津和野

The beautiful old castle town of TSUWANO stretches along the narrow valley of the Tsuwano-gawa, just over 50km east of Hagi and around 35km inland from the coast at Masuda. To either side, the soaring hills are thickly covered in trees that turn glorious colours when autumn sets in; the magnificent Taikodani Inari-jinja shrine pokes from the woods to the west, beneath the ruined castle of Tsuwano-jō, while the extinct, 908m-high Aono-yama volcano looms high above town to the east, surrounded at dawn by swirling mists.

Like many another small Japanese town, Tsuwano touts itself as a “Little Kyoto”. For once, the nickname is entirely appropriate: somehow, despite the many tourists, an air of courtly affluence still pervades its historic Tono-machi quarter, where the former samurai houses now hold shops, galleries, cafés and restaurants. What’s more, in such a tiny place – home to fewer than ten thousand residents – a five-minute walk can take you out into open countryside; once the day-trippers have gone, Tsuwano lets out its breath and turns delightfully sleepy and peaceful.

Various annual festivals merit a special trip to Tsuwano. Between July 20 and July 27, the Gion Matsuri at the Yasaka-jinja (八坂神社; 625 Gionmachi) sees the ancient Sagi-Mai (Heron Dance) performed by men dressed as the white birds, complete with flapping wings and long-necked hats. It’s also worth braving the crowds on the second Sunday in April, to watch the Yabusame Horseback Archery Competition at Washibara Hachimangū shrine (鷲原八幡宮; 6322 Washibara).

Tono-machi

殿町

Tsuwano’s prosperity, born of peace and enlightened governance by local daimyō, is evident from the handsome buildings that fill the venerable Tono-machi neighbourhood, a few minutes’ walk from the station. Cradled in a curve of the Tsuwano-gawa, this district was home to many samurai families, whose houses still retain their cross-hatched black-and-white plaster walls. As you stroll the semi-pedestrianized main street, look out for the three sake breweries, the perfectly preserved old pharmacy, and the many shops that sell traditional sweets, including genji-maki, a soft sponge filled with sweet red-bean paste. Most remarkable of all are the slender little canals that parallel the street on both sides – they’re filled with live and very colourful carp, which were originally bred as emergency food supplies in case of famine.

Morijuku Museum

杜塾美術館, Morijuku Bijutsukan • 542 Oazamori-mura • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 085 672 3200

Across the river just south of Tono-machi, in a restored farmhouse fronted by raked-gravel gardens is the Morijuku Museum, a smart, modern gallery that exhibits works by local contemporary artists, as well as a small collection of etchings by Goya. Upstairs, the attendant will show you the pinhole camera in the shōji screen, capturing an image of the garden outside.

Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum

森鴎外記念館, Mori Ōgai Kinen-kan • 238 Machida • Museum Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥600 • 085 672 3210 • Mori Ōgai Kyūtaku Daily 9am–5pm • ¥100

The modern Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum, towards the southern end of Tsuwano, displays the personal effects of Mori Ōgai (1862–1922), a famed Meiji-era novelist, translator, poet and surgeon. His preserved wood-and-mustard-plaster home next door, Mori Ōgai Kyūtaku (森鴎外旧宅), can be visited separately; you can access both on lovely riverside paths from the town centre.

Tsuwano-jō

津和野城 • Chairlift Daily: March–Nov 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb hours vary • ¥450 return

In a commanding hilltop location on the west side of the valley, the castle of Tsuwano-jō was built in 1295 by Lord Yoshimi Yoriyuki, as protection against potential Mongol invaders. The wooden parts of the structure were burned and dismantled at the start of the Meiji era, but its stone walls still stand surprisingly strong, guarding a grassy, levelled-off plateau above the thickly wooded slopes, from which the views are superb.

It takes around half an hour to hike up to the castle along a steep trail that starts a short way beyond the Taikodani Inari-jinja shrine. An old-fashioned (and somewhat hair-raising, since there’s nothing to stop you falling off) hop-on hop-off chairlift also makes the climb to a point an easy ten-minute walk from the ruins. Make sure you get back in time for the last ride down; you really wouldn’t want to be stuck up there after dark.

Taikodani Inari-jinja

太鼓谷稲成神社 • 409 Ushiroda • 24hr • Free • 085 672 0219

From the west bank of the Tsuwano-gano River, an extraordinary and quite dazzling procession of over a thousand bright red torii, each crammed so close to the next that they form a “tunnel” through the trees, adorns a stairway that zigzags up the hillside to reach Taikodani Inari-jinja after a fifteen-minute climb.

This is one of the five largest Inari shrines in Japan, dedicated to a Shintō deity connected with fertility, agricultural bounty and foxes – the vivid vermilion colour of the torii is closely associated with Inari, and so too are the matching male-and-female pairs of fox statues, kitsune, which you may see receiving loving caresses from devotees. All in all it’s a magnificent spot, with its main eighteenth-century hall resplendent in gold and red, and presiding over a central patio where all the surrounding shrines repay further exploration; if you’re in Tsuwano for the night, stroll by the river underneath for a magical look at the lights leading up to the shrine.

Otometōge Maria Seidō

乙女峠マリア聖堂 • 717-3 Ushiroda • 24hr • Free

A pleasant woodland hike leads through the hills immediately west of Tsuwano Station. Head southwest and cross the train tracks at the first opportunity, then double back and continue to the car park, from where a footpath leads up to the cosy chapel of Otometōge Maria Seidō, nestling in a leafy glade. In 1865, the Tokugawa shogunate transported some 150 Christians from Nagasaki to Tsuwano; 36 were eventually put to death for their beliefs before the new Meiji government bowed to international pressure, lifting the ban on the religion in 1874. This quaint wooden structure was built to commemorate the martyrs in 1951, and is the scene of the Otometōge festival on May 3.

Kakuōzan Yōmei-ji

覚皇山永明寺 • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥300 • 085 672 0137

Inside the charming temple of Kakuōzan Yōmei-ji, 200m south through the forest from the Maria Seidō chapel, stone steps lead up to an elegant collection of thatched wooden buildings, used by generations of Tsuwano lords since 1420. Inside, look out for the sumptuous screen paintings that decorate some of the tatami rooms, and take a moment to sit and admire the verdant traditional garden.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TSUWANO

By train Tsuwano Station, at the northwestern edge of the town centre, is on the scenic cross-country JR Yamaguchi line, which runs from the nearest Shinkansen stop, Shin-Yamaguchi on the south coast, via Yamaguchi (also served by more frequent, slower services), to Masuda on the north coast. To get to or from Hagi, you must change at Masuda; some trains from Tsuwano, however, continue east along the coast beyond Masuda to Matsue.

Destinations Masuda (10 daily; 40min); Matsue (2 daily; 2hr 40min); Shin-Yamaguchi (3 daily; 1hr); Yamaguchi (12 daily; 1hr 10min).

By steam train On weekends and some holidays, JR run steam-train day-trips to Tsuwano. The SL Yamaguchi-gō leaves Shin-Yamaguchi at 10.50am and allows passengers a couple of hours in Tsuwano before setting off back to Shin-Yamaguchi at 3.45pm (late March to late Nov, Sat & Sun only; one-way ¥1660; 078 341 7903, c571.jp).

By bus Direct buses from Hagi arrive at the train station (5 daily; 1hr 45min; ¥2190; bochobus.co.jp), as do an assortment of other services.

INFORMATION AND GETTING AROUND

Tourist information The tourist office is just outside the train station, off to the right in a separate building (daily 9am–5pm; 085 672 1771, tsuwano-kanko.net).

By bike Outlets offering rental bikes include Kamai Shoten, in the parade of shops opposite the station (¥500/2hr, ¥800/day).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Tsuwano is a wonderful and relatively affordable place to spend a night in a traditional ryokan or minshuku, though there’s no wi-fi available at any of the following (if you’re in need, there’s a hot-spot opposite Konomi bar).

Hoshi Ryokan 星旅館 53-6 Ushiroda 085 672 0136. Slightly ramshackle but charming and friendly ryokan, close to the station, which calls to mind the weathered home of an elderly aunt. Insulation is not the best, so if you’re here in winter be sure the heater works. Add on ¥1250 per person per meal. ¥10,000

Noren Yado Meigetsu のれん宿明月 665 Ushiroda 085 672 0685. This charming ryokan is great value, especially considering the sheer quality (and quantity!) of its food, with kaiseki dinners featuring local ingredients like seasonal mountain vegetables and carp. The spacious tatami rooms are arrayed around a small traditional garden, and there are plenty of polished wood fittings plus a small private onsen. Rates include two meals. ¥19,500

Wakasagi-no-Yado 若さぎの宿 93-6 Morimura 085 672 1146. This homely, somewhat kitsch minshuku has an English-speaking owner and offers good tatami rooms with TV and a/c. Rates include breakfast and dinner, but you can also pay ¥4500 per person without meals. ¥16,200

EATING MAP

Although several shokudō and noodle shops are clustered near the station and around the Tono-machi area, very few restaurants in Tsuwano stay open in the evening, when most overnight visitors eat where they sleep (the Lawson stays open 24hr). Don’t miss uzume-meshi, the local dish of rice in a broth with shredded green mountain vegetables, pieces of tofu and mushrooms.

Kureha 紅葉 201 Ushiroda 085 672 1006. Cute little coffee house on the main street, with tatami and Western seating, English menu and English-speaking staff. You can pick up coffee and a cake (such as yummy cheesecake with tofu, or apricot tart) for ¥700, while breakfast toast is ¥480 and lunches such as beef curry cost ¥1000–1200. Try to avoid the noontime rush, though. Tues–Sun 9am–6pm.

Minoya みのや 75-11 Ushiroda 085 672 1531. Thatched-roof, teahouse-style restaurant, a short walk south of the station and festooned with a giant red paper lantern. Simple bowls of soba or udon noodles go from ¥400; on a hot day, you may well be tempted by their home-made sumomo (plum), ume (another type of plum) or shiso (perilla leaf) juices (all ¥400). Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm.

Yūki 遊亀 271-4 Ushiroda 085 672 0162. This renowned restaurant has a palpable sense of history, with tatami booths, pottery and porcelain on the walls and a carp-filled stream running right through the dining room – some of the fish end up on the plate, as sashimi or in the miso soup. Try the ¥2000 Tsuwano teishoku, a set meal of local dishes. Reservations recommended. Fri–Wed 11am–3pm.

DRINKING MAP

There aren’t many options in town unless you want to get into Japanese “snack bar” culture – there are quite a few of these hostess bars around town, hinting that many domestic visitors are not just in secluded Tsuwano for the clean air.

Konomi 木の実 369-4 Ushiroda 085 672 0280. This quirky spot is of the few places in town in which you can get a late-evening meal, such as curry rice or a toasted sandwich, but it’s perhaps of more import for its booze, including a surprisingly wide selection of international beers. Daily 6pm–midnight.

Lawson ローソン 65-28 Ushiroda. Yes, it’s a convenience store (and the only one in town), but it’s open round the clock, and has a decent selection of Tsuwano-made sake. Daily 24hr.

Izumo and around

The region around Izumo is among the longest settled areas in Japan, with a written history dating back to the seventh-century Izumo-no-Kuni Fudoki (The Topography of Izumo). There’s plenty to see, including the magnificent shrine of Izumo Taisha – holiday home of the Shintō pantheon of deities, and the reason Lafcadio Hearn dubbed Matsue the “chief city of the province of the gods” – and the stunning gardens of the Adachi Museum of Art.

Izumo Taisha

出雲大社 • 195 Kizuki-higashi • Daily 6am–6pm • Free • 085 353 3100, www.izumooyashiro.or.jp

IZUMO TAISHA FESTIVALS

Apart from the usual Shintō festival days, Izumo Taisha’s most important festivals are:

Imperial Grand Festival (May 14–16): The welcome mat is rolled out for an envoy from the imperial family.

Kamiari-sai (One week between Oct and Nov): Celebration for the annual gathering of some eight million Shintō gods. During the festival, the gods are carried into the Honden, where they hold a conference to discuss, among other things, wedding matches between Japanese people.

The sacred enclave of Izumo Taisha, a Shintō shrine second only in importance to the one at Ise, spreads across a low eminence in the coastal foothills at the edge of the town of Izumo, 40km west of Matsue. At once grand and graceful, the shrine – which you may also see called by its official name, Izumo Ōyashiro – is said in legend to have been built by Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess. The current main building, which dates from 1744, stands 24m tall, which makes it Japan’s tallest wooden structure, topping Nara’s Tōdai-ji, home of the great statue of Buddha. Three colossal pillars (unearthed in 2000) appear to confirm the belief that it was originally twice that size, raised 48m high and accessed by a vast, gently sloping staircase.

All eight million Shintō deities still visit Izumo Taisha each November, for their annual get-together. In this region, the tenth month of the lunar calendar is traditionally known as the “month with gods”, while in all other parts of Japan it’s known as the “month without gods”. Since the shrine is dedicated to Okuninushi-no-mikoto, the God of Happy Marriage, many couples visit in the hope of living happily ever after; visitors to the shrine clap their hands four times, rather than the usual two, to summon the deity.

The shrine

At the top of the commercialized street that leads north from the little train station of Izumo Taisha-mae is a large concrete torii, which marks the southern limit of the park-like grounds. Set off along the path, and after 250m you’ll come to a wooden torii at the start of the Seki-no-Baba, an avenue of gnarled pines that leads up to the shrine itself, at the foot of Yakumo-yama and entered via a final bronze torii. The branches of the trees on all sides, to which visitors tie omikuji (fortune-telling) papers for good luck, are so heavily laden they seem coated with snow.

Straight ahead stands the Oracle Hall, in front of which hangs a giant shimenawa, the traditional twist of straw rope. Legend has it that good fortune awaits those who can successfully toss a coin that lodges in the cut ends of the ropes. Inside the hall, Shintō ceremonies take place all day, with accompanying drumming and flute playing.

The inner shrine, or Honden (本殿), immediately beyond – recognizable by the projecting rafters that shoot from its roof – is closed to the general public. Instead, you’ll have to stand outside its Eight-Legged East Gate, decorated with beautiful wooden carvings, and peer through to the inner courtyard. Even pilgrims are not allowed anywhere near the central Holy of Holies hall, buried deep within – only the head priest can enter.

Be sure to follow the footpath around the back of the enclosure, away from the crowds. Several little shed-like shrines nestle into the forest as it starts to climb up the hillside, and you’re likely to encounter priests going about their duties – as well as lots of little rabbit statues.

The large modern hall near the west exit of Izumo Taisha hosts more daily ceremonies, and is also used for the sacred kagura dances on festival days. Here too visitors fling coins into the shimenawa that hangs in front, hoping they will stick and bring them luck.

Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo

島根県立古代出雲歴史博物館, Shimanekenritsu Kodai Izumo Rekishi Hakubutsukan • 99-4 Kizuki-higashi • Daily: March–Oct 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb 9am–5pm; closed 3rd Tues of month • ¥610 • 085 353 8600, www.izm.ed.jp

In a large modern building 500m southeast of the inner shrine, clearly signposted through the grounds, the superb Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo tells the story of Izumo Taisha in compelling detail. Artefacts on display include 39 beautiful two-thousand-year-old brass bells, assorted clay figurines and woodblock prints, and all sorts of maps and scrolls depicting the growth of the shrine. There’s also a nice little café upstairs.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION IZUMO TAISHA

By plane Two daily buses (35min; ¥850) connect the shrine with Izumo Airport ( izumo-airport.co.jp), 22km east on the way to Matsue.

By train The rather gorgeous little Art Deco station of Izumo Taisha-mae, a 5min walk south of the shrine, is served by trains on the Ichibata line from Matsue Shinji-ko Onsen Station, though you almost always have to change at Kawato, four stops east of Izumo Taisha (total 1hr; ¥1020). JR trains between Masuda and Matsue stop at Izumo-shi Station, 9km southeast, from where you can either catch a direct bus to the shrine (25min; ¥470), or change trains onto the Ichibata line, and then change once again at Kawato (22min; ¥490).

By bus The Izumo Taisha bus station, served by buses to and from Izumo-shi Station and Hinomisaki, is a minute’s walk west of the shrine grounds.

By bike You can rent a bike at the station, but it’s only worth it if you plan to visit Hinomisaki, 10km northwest, as well.

Tourist information There’s a tourist office at Izumo-shi Station (daily 8.30am–7.30pm; 085 353 2298, izumo-kankou.gr.jp), and you can also pick up English leaflets in Izumo Taisha-mae Station.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

With Matsue so close, there’s no pressing reason to stay overnight in Izumo Taisha, though if need be you can grab a bite at any number of restaurants around the bus station near the shrine.

Arakiya 荒木屋 409-2 Kizuki-higashi 085 353 2352, bit.ly/arakiya. Welcoming traditional restaurant, beyond the main throng of tourist canteens 400m west of the bus station, which makes a good place to try the local speciality, warigo soba (¥780), cold buckwheat noodles seasoned with seaweed flakes, served in three-layer dishes, over which you pour dashi (stock); a single layer of noodles, also served with a cup of hot soba-water soup, costs just ¥260. Thurs–Tues 11am–5pm.

Hinode-kan 日の出館 776 Taisha-chō, Kizuki-nishi 085 353 3311. Set in pleasant gardens a couple of minutes’ walk up from the train station towards the shrine, this simple Japanese-style inn offers air-conditioned rooms, not all en suite, plus a public bath. Rates include breakfast and dinner, but you can forego the latter for a 20 percent discount. ¥22,000

Hinomisaki-jinja

日御碕神社 • 455 Hinomisaki • Shrine Daily 8am–5pm • Free • Lighthouse Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥150 • 20min by bus from Izumo Taisha bus station (¥540), or 30min on a rental bike

The scenic cape of Hinomisaki (日御碕), 9km northwest of Izumo Taisho, holds a quieter shrine complex, Hinomisaki-jinja. Built in 1644 under the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, it’s been fully restored and painted bright orange. When the weather’s good, you can climb the steep spiral staircase to the top of the 44m-tall white stone lighthouse in the complex, built in 1903, to get a splendid view out to the nearby islands. There are several bathing beaches around the cape, while the rocky cliffs close to the lighthouse are good for exploring.

Matsue and around

松江

The very charming prefectural capital of Shimane-ken, MATSUE, straddles a thin strip of land that separates the Shinji-ko and Nakaumi lagoons, around 16km inland from the San’in coast. Threaded through by canals and rivers, and centring on the intact 400-year-old castle of Matsue-jō – still encircled by a tranquil moat – Matsue has a soothing, faintly Venetian atmosphere. Its downtown core was left relatively unscathed by World War II, so walking through its main commercial districts you feel as though you could be in the 1930s. Going back a little further, it’s still possible to catch glimpses of the old Japan that so enchanted author Lafcadio Hearn a century ago, such as fishermen casting their nets in Shinji-ko lake, or prodding its depths with poles, searching out shellfish.

Besides the castle, Matsue’s finest attractions include the handsome samurai district of Shiomi Nawate, which holds Hearn’s former home; the Matsue Historical Museum; and the lakefront Shimane Art Museum, south of the Ōhashi-gawa River which divides the city in two. While you could just about see them all in half a day, Matsue is quite spread out, and you’ll probably enjoy it more if you take the time to amble from place to place, lingering beside the waterways and meandering around the various temples scattered near the river’s south bank.

Matsue-jō

松江城 • 1-5 Tono-machi • Castle grounds Daily: April–Sept 7am–7.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5pm • Free • Donjon Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5pm • ¥560, foreign visitors ¥280 • 085 221 4030 • English-speaking guides available at weekends, and on weekdays if booked through tourist information office • Bus from Matsue Station to Kenchō-mae (the castle grounds are straight ahead), or a 30min walk from Matsue station

Still very much the focal point of Matsue, just as it was when the daimyō Horio Yoshiharu ordered its construction in 1611, the five-storey donjon of Matsue-jō stands brooding atop the hill of Oshiro-yama. Even though, compared to the donjon of Himeji-jō, it looks somewhat squashed, this is, in fact, the second largest of the twelve remaining original castle towers scattered around Japan. Extensively renovated during the 1950s, its sinister aspect is enhanced by the black-painted wood decorating the walls.

Leave your shoes at the entrance to the donjon, and climb the slippery wooden stairs in your socks to reach the fifth-floor Tengu (“Long-Nosed Goblin”) room. Had there been any battles – which there weren’t – the lords would have commanded their armies from this superb vantage point, with its views sweeping across the city towards the lake and sea. The lower floors hold some good historical exhibits, including the wooden shachi (mythical dolphins) that once topped the roof; huge ancient arrows; scale models of the city during different eras; and, best of all, fearsome samurai helmets, personalized with waves and antlers.

The grounds surrounding the castle, circumscribed by its wide inner moat, have been turned into a pleasant park, Jōzan-kōen (城山公園). Assorted footpaths undulate over and around the wooded slopes, making it a great spot for a picnic or a stroll, and there’s also an Inari shrine at the northern end, Jōzan Inari-jinja (城山稲成神社).

Matsue History Museum

松江郷土館, Matsue Kyōdo-kan • Tono-machi 279 • Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5pm; closed third Thurs of month • ¥510 • 085 232 1607, matsu-reki.jp

A large, clearly signposted modern building, immediately across the moat east of the castle and designed to resemble a samurai home, holds the Matsue History Museum, which until recently was housed in the elegant whitewashed mansion outside the castle gate. Its extensively updated displays trace the story of Matsue from the building of the castle – which, as two talismans that were unearthed in 2012 confirm, was 1611 – via the city that Lafcadio Hearn knew, up to the present day. Contemporary Matsue is represented by a master confectionery maker, whom can you watch preparing sweets.

The same ticket also gives admission to the Horan-enya Memorial Hall next door, devoted to the city’s huge boat festival, a Shintō ceremony celebrated every ten years (next due in 2029).

Shiomi Nawate

塩見繩手

The tranquil street that runs beside the moat along the northern flank of the castle park leads you to the Shiomi Nawate neighbourhood. Several former samurai residences here, still protected behind high walls capped with grey tiles, have been converted into museums and restaurants.

Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum

小泉八雲記念館, Koizumi Yakumo Kinen-kan • 322-4 Okudani-chō • Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5pm • ¥400, foreign visitors ¥200 • 085 221 2147, www.hearn-museum-matsue.jp

Curated by Hearn’s great-grandson, Bon Koizumi, the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum provides an excellent introduction to the life and works of the revered writer. Exhibits spread across two floors, with plenty of English captions, and include Hearn’s favourite writing desk and chair, specially designed to help him make the best use of his one good eye.

LAFCADIO HEARN

“There is some charm unutterable in the morning air, cool with the coolness of Japanese spring and wind-waves from the snowy cone of Fuji …” Lafcadio Hearn, My First Day in the Orient

The journalist Lafcadio Hearn was enchanted by Japan, and of all expat writers is by far the most respected by the Japanese. Celebrated by the people of Matsue as an adopted son, his books, including Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan and Kwaidan, are considered classics.

The offspring of a passionate but doomed liaison between an Anglo-Irish army surgeon and a Greek girl, and named after the Greek island of Lefkada on which he was born on June 27, 1850, Hearn grew up in Dublin, a contemporary of Bram Stoker and Oscar Wilde. A schoolyard accident in 1866 left him permanently blind in his left eye, and in 1869, young and penniless, he decided to chance his fortune in the United States. Over the course of the next fourteen years, Hearn worked as a reporter and writer in Cincinnati, New Orleans and the West Indian island of Martinique (where he penned his first novel, Chita), with a brief marriage to an African-American girl along the way.

Commissioned by Harper’s Monthly to write about Japan, Hearn arrived in Yokohama on April 4, 1890. By the end of the day, he had decided to stay, get a teaching job and write a book. The teaching post brought Hearn to Matsue, where he met and married Koizumi Setsu, the daughter of an impoverished samurai family.

Hearn would happily have stayed in Matsue, but the freezing winter weather made him ill, and in 1891 they moved south to Kumamoto, in Kyūshū, closer to Koizumi’s relatives. The couple had four children, and in 1896 he adopted the name Koizumi Yakumo (Eight Clouds) and secured Japanese nationality. By the turn of the century, Hearn’s novels and articles had become a great success; he had started teaching at Tokyo’s prestigious Waseda University, and was invited to give a series of lectures at the University of London and in the United States. On September 30, 1904, however, at the age of 54, Hearn suffered a series of heart attacks and died. His gravestone in Zoshigaya cemetery, near Ikebukuro in Tokyo, proclaims him a “man of faith, similar to the undefiled flower blooming like eight rising clouds who dwells in the mansion of right enlightenment”.

Hearn’s books stand as paeans to the beauty and mystery of old Japan, something he believed worth recording, as it seemed to be fast disappearing in the nonstop modernization of the early Meiji years.

Lafcadio Hearn’s Former Residence

小泉八雲旧居, Koizumi Yakumo Kyūkyo • 315 Kitahori-chō • Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5pm • ¥350, foreign visitors ¥150 • 085 223 0714

Alongside the writer’s eponymous museum, Lafcadio Hearn’s Former Residence is the small samurai house where he lived between May and November 1891. During that time, he started work on two of his best-known books, Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan and the ghost story collection Kwaidan. As you sit in the calm of the tatami rooms, looking out over its exquisite little garden and reading the English leaflet that contains extracts from Hearn’s essay “In a Japanese Garden”, you can see how little has changed.

Tanabe Art Museum

田部美術館, Tanabe Bijutsukan • 310-5 Kitahori-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥620 • 085 226 2211, www.tanabe-museum.or.jp

A high wall shields the contemporary building of the Tanabe Art Museum, next door to Lafcadio Hearn’s old house. Established in 1964 by the late prefectural governor Tanabe Chōemon XXIII, who was also a respected artist with a particular interest in the aesthetics of the tea ceremony, the museum contains the Tanabe family’s refined collection, centred around pottery tea bowls and utensils. In the pleasant, breezy café that overlooks the garden, you can have matcha tea and cake for ¥410.

Buke-yashiki

武家屋敷 • 305 Kitahori-chō • Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct–March till 5pm • ¥300, foreign visitors ¥150 • 085 222 2243

Matsue’s largest surviving samurai house, the Buke-yashiki, was built in 1730 as home to the Shiomi family, high-ranking retainers to the ruling Matsudaira clan. Visits to the attractive complex consist of wandering around the exterior, peering into tatami and wood rooms that offer an appealing glimpse of eighteenth-century samurai life.

Meimei-an teahouse

明々庵 • 278 Kitahori-chō • Daily: April–Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct–March 8.30am–5pm • ¥410, foreign visitors ¥200; tea ceremony ¥410 • 085 221 9863, www.meimeian.jp

Notable for the precise Zen beauty of the raked gravel and artfully positioned stones that surround it, the Meimei-an teahouse stands a short walk up the hill behind Shiomi Nawate. Originally designed by the daimyō Matsudaira Fumai to exact tea-ceremony principles, the tiny cottage has creamy beige plaster walls that hardly look capable of holding up its heavily thatched roof. In 1966, to celebrate its 150th anniversary, Meimei-an was restored and moved to this spot, beside an existing samurai mansion and enjoying a fine prospect of the castle. You can’t enter the teahouse itself, but you can admire it – with tea and cake, for an additional fee – from the veranda of the adjoining mansion.

Karakoro Art Studio

カラコロ工房, Karakoro Kōbō • 43 Tono-machi • Daily: complex 9.30am–6.30pm, hours of individual businesses vary • Free • 085 220 7000, www.karakoro-kobo.com

A stately former bank building across from the Kyobashi canal now holds the Karakoro Art Studio, a slightly misleading name for a complex that includes several cafés and restaurants as well as a small gallery exhibiting local glass art, kimono and fabric, and several craft shops selling jewellery, clothing and stained glass. Head upstairs to find the most interesting shops, while the central courtyard is a nice spot to relax over a green tea ice cream.

Shimane Art Museum

島根県立美術館, Shimane Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 1-5 Sodeshi-chō • Mon & Wed–Sun: March–Sept 10am until 30min after sunset; Oct–Feb 10am–6.30pm • Access to building and lake free; museum ¥300, foreign visitors ¥150; with special exhibition ¥1150, foreign visitors ¥575 • 085 255 4700, www.shimane-art-museum.jp

Strangely enough, the art itself is almost an afterthought at the Shimane Art Museum, which occupies a long, low contemporary structure a 1.2km walk southwest of Matsue Station. Instead it’s the museum’s dramatic location, facing the full sweep of the lake, that lures in the locals, who come to admire the sunset while strolling the broad waterfront promenade outside. The permanent collection on show inside, displayed in five upstairs galleries, ranges through some magnificent old painted scrolls and local crafts, and usually but not invariably includes some classic ukiyo-e prints, while changing temporary exhibitions cover Western as well as Japanese art.

Yakumotatsu Fudoki-no-Oka

八雲立つ風土記の丘 • 456 Oba-chō • Park 24hr • Free • Museum Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥200 • 085 223 2485, yakumotatu-fudokinooka.jp • Take #21 or #22 bus from Matsue Station towards Oba/Yakumo, and get off at Oba Shako

Amid the paddy fields on the southern fringes of Matsue, 6km out from the city centre, the site known as Yakumotatsu Fudoki-no-Oka preserves keyhole-shaped burial mounds (kofun) left by the region’s earliest-known inhabitants. The museum displays a small assortment of archeological finds, including impressive pottery horses and some first- and second-century bronze daggers and bells.

Izumo Kanbe-no-Sato

出雲かんべの里 • 085 228 0040, kanbenosato.com • Demonstrations ¥200

As well as pleasant forest and nature walks, the surrounding park holds a couple of buildings promoting local culture, known as the Izumo Kanbe-no-Sato. For a small fee, you can watch woodworkers, basket-makers, weavers, potters and a specialist in temari, the art of making colourful thread-decorated balls.

Kamosu-jinja

神魂神社 • 563 Oba-chō • 24hr • Free • 085 221 6379 • Take #21 or #22 bus from Matsue Station towards Oba/Yakumo and get off at Oba Shako, or take the bus for Kanbe-no-Sato and get off at the last stop

The handsome shrine of Kamosu-jinja stands 1km west of Yakumotatsu Fudoki-no-Oka, and 5.5km south of Matsue Station. Dedicated to the Shintō mother deity Izanami, it’s set in a glade of soaring pines that’s reached via stone steps lined with cherry trees. Raised on stilts, the main bare-wood structure dates from 1346 and is said to be the oldest remaining example of Taisha-zukuri or “Grand shrine style” left in Japan. The site itself, though, is even older, and preceded the more famous Izumo Taisha shrine to the west, with which it remains associated.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MATSUE AND AROUND

By plane Connecting buses run from Izumo Airport ( izumo-airport.co.jp), 25km west, to Matsue Station (30min; ¥1030). If you arrive at Yonago Airport ( yonago-air.com), 25km east, you can either catch a shuttle bus to Matsue Station (45min; ¥990), or catch a train to Yonago Station, and change there for Matsue (1hr–1hr 30min total; ¥760).

Izumo destinations Fukuoka (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Nagoya (2 daily; 1hr); Oki islands (1 daily; 35min); Osaka (4 daily; 55min); Tokyo Haneda (5 daily; 1hr 15min).

Yonago destinations Tokyo Haneda (8 daily; 1hr 10min).

By train JR trains arrive at Matsue Station, 450m south of the Ōhashi-gawa River and 2km southeast of the castle. The nearest Shinkansen stop, Okayama, is 180km away on the south coast and connected by cross-country local trains, while JR also run an overnight sleeper train from Tokyo. The private and totally separate Matsue Shinji-ko Onsen Station, across the river 1.2km southwest of the castle (and complete with public hot-spring footbath outside), is the terminus for Ichibata trains from Izumo Taisha.

Destinations Izumo Taisha (hourly; 1hr); Okayama (hourly; 2hr 30min); Shin-Yamaguchi (2 daily; 3hr 45min); Tottori (5 daily; 1hr 30min); Tokyo (1 daily; 11hr 20min); Tsuwano (2 daily; 2hr 40min).

By bus Most long-distance buses arrive beside Matsue Station, while the rest go to Matsue Shinji-ko Onsen Station; for details, visit chugoku-jrbus.co.jp or ichibata.co.jp.

Destinations Hiroshima (hourly; 3hr); Kyoto (4 daily; 5hr); Okayama (7 daily; 3hr); Nagoya (1 daily; 8hr); Osaka (8 daily; 4hr 30min); Tokyo (1 daily; 12hr).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Local bus routes radiate out from Matsue Station – check which bus stop you need at the tourist office alongside – and include frequent connections to Matsue Shinji-ko Onsen Station. The Lakeside Line, a red trolley bus, makes a complicated anticlockwise circuit around the city, taking in the castle, the samurai neighbourhood as well as both stations (every 20min; full circuit takes 50min; ¥200 per trip or ¥500 all-day pass).

By bike Cycling is a good way to explore Matsue from top to bottom. Rental bikes are available at both stations, including from Eki Rent-a-Car at Matsue Station (daily 8am–7pm; ¥500/day; 085 223 8800).

KYŌDO-RYŌRI IN MATSUE

Gourmets flock to Matsue for its Kyōdo-ryōri, seven types of dishes using fish and seafood from Shinji-ko. Best sampled in winter when all the fish are available and tasting their freshest, these are: amasagi, smelt either cooked as tempura or marinated in teriyaki sauce; koi, carp baked in a rich, sweet sauce; moroge-ebi, steamed prawns; shijimi, small shellfish usually served in miso soup; shirauo, whitebait eaten raw as sashimi or cooked as tempura; suzuki, bass wrapped in paper and steam-baked over hot coals; and unagi, grilled freshwater eel. To sample the full seven courses, make an advance reservation with one of the top ryokan, such as Minamikan, and be ready to part with at least ¥10,000.

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist information Helpful staff at the tourist office outside the north exit of Matsue Station (daily 9am–6pm; 085 221 4034, visit-matsue.com) can advise you on local sights and transport connections.

Boat tours An ideal way to appreciate Matsue’s watery charms is to take a Horikawa Boat Trip, which takes 50min to complete a 3.7km circuit around the castle moat and canals. Passengers can get on and off at any of three points: across from the Karakoro Art Studio; near the main castle entrance; and northwest of the castle near the Shiomi Nawate neighbourhood. An all-day pass costs ¥1500, discounted to ¥1200 for foreigners (departures every 15–20min; daily: March–June & Sept to mid-Oct 9am–5pm; July & Aug 9am–6pm; mid-Oct to Feb 9am–4pm 085 227 0417, www.matsue-horikawameguri.jp).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Matsue’s accommodation options broadly divide between the usual cluster of business hotels around Matsue Station, and more upmarket options along the lakeshore south of Matsue Shinji-ko Onsen Station.

Dormy Inn Express ドーミーインEXPRESS松江 498-1 Asahi-machi 085 259 5489, dormyinn-expressmatsue.hotel-rn.com. Chain hotel, just a 5min walk from Matsue Station, offering good rates for small but clean modern rooms, plus free laundry and free noodles in the lobby at night. ¥11,000

Minamikan 皆実館 14 Suetsugu-Hon-machi 085 221 5131, www.minami-g.co.jp/minamikan. Matsue’s top ryokan, facing the lake from the heart of the city, occupies a modern complex but has a distinctly traditional feel, from the courteous service to the neatly clipped pines in the gravel garden. Huge suites of tatami rooms in varying styles, plus the very finest local cuisine. Rates include two meals. ¥45,200

Nōtsu Ryokan 野津旅館 555 Isemiya-chō 085 221 1525. Smart, well turned out ryokan on the banks of the Ōhashi-gawa with rooms overlooking the river, a rooftop rotemburo and friendly service. The cheapest rates are for shared-bath tatami rooms with no meals, but the food is excellent, so it’s worth looking for an all-in deal. ¥9000

Shikkui-no-Yado Tenjin 旅館寺津屋漆喰の宿天神 132 Tenjin-machi 085 261 1330. A short walk west of Matsue Station and set in a nineteenth-century merchant house, this is the best of the hostel-like operations to have proliferated in recent years. An enormous amount of effort has gone into sprucing up all rooms; if you’re travelling solo, single occupancy of private rooms only costs a little more than the dorms. Dorms ¥3200, twins ¥7500

EATING MAP

Matsue doesn’t have quite the range of restaurants you might expect, but there are some good places around, especially in the old streets between the Ōhashi-gawa and Kyobashi canal. The arcaded main street north of Matsue Station echoes to a vintage jazz soundtrack after dark, and feels as though it can have hardly changed in a hundred years, but the bars in the Isemiya district hereabouts tend to be seedy.

Café Courant d’Air カフェ クーラン デ エール 484-13 Asahi-machi 085 227 8577. This sophisticated café, right outside the station, has subdued lighting, classical music and classy decor, and offers thick slices of creamy sponge and strawberry shortcake (from ¥400) and espresso coffees (cappuccino ¥700). Mon–Sat 11am–11pm.

Isoryōri Yamaoka 磯料理 やまおか 186 Tera-machi 085 225 9029. Friendly little local restaurant, 700m northwest of Matsue Station, just off the Tera-machi arcade, with counter seating downstairs and more formal private dining beyond. Sizeable set dinners, featuring meat as well as seafood, start at ¥3240. Mon–Sat 5–11pm.

Kawa-kyō 川京 65 Suetsugu-Hon-machi 085 222 1312. Everything is perfect at this tiny central izakaya, from the charming mother-and-daughter owners who prepare the consistently wonderful food to the sake-fuelled good cheer of your half-dozen fellow diners, crammed chopstick-to-chopstick along the counter. While serving all “Seven Delicacies from Lake Shiji”, they’re renowned for their broiled, basted eel, costing ¥1900 with rice and miso. Mixed sashimi or a bowl of clams will cost around ¥1000, and be sure to try the paper-baked bass, too, or indeed whatever they happen to have on offer. Reserve ahead to be sure of squeezing in. Mon–Sat 6–10.30pm.

Naniwa なにわ 21 Suetsugu-Hon-machi 085 221 2835, honten.naniwa-i.com. Popular, very classy lakefront restaurant, serving beautiful kaiseki meals and more modest “ladies” set dinners, with the cheapest option being an eel-and-rice set for ¥1940. It’s also one of the best places to try Kyōdo ryōri, with multi-course meals costing from ¥5400 to well over ¥10,000. Daily 11am–9pm.

Yakumo-an 八雲庵 308 Kitabori-chō, Shiomi Nawate 085 222 2400, yakumoan.jp. Popular, picturesque lunch-only restaurant in a former samurai residence across the castle moat, with a central garden, teahouse and carp-filled pond. The speciality here is good-value soba and udon noodles, including warigo soba (cold seaweed-seasoned buckwheat noodles, served in three-layer dishes, over which you pour stock), with nothing costing over ¥1400. Daily 10am–3.30pm.

Adachi Museum of Art

足立美術館, Adachi Bijutsukan • 320 Furukawa-chō, 20km southeast of Matsue and 9km southwest of the nearest village, Yasugi • Daily: April–Sept 9am–5.30pm; Oct–March 9am–5pm • ¥2300, foreign visitors ¥1150 • 085 428 7111, www.adachi-museum.or.jp

Thanks to its extraordinary garden, consistently ranked as the finest in all Japan, the Adachi Museum of Art is something no visitor to western Honshū should miss. In truth, its collection of Japanese art is more forgettable, but it’s still worth making the effort to reach this remote rural spot. Most people come as a day-trip from Matsue, but you can also simply stop off as you travel along the San’in coast.

The gardens

The founder of the museum, Adachi Zenkō, was an enthusiastic gardener, and his passion for the art form shows through in the six separate gardens that he created. All are meticulously crafted, with not a blossom, leaf or stone out of place, and no outsider could even dream of actually setting foot on the pristine raked gravel. Instead, you can only admire the perfection, at its most sublime in autumn, from a distance. Visitors proceed through the museum building along a set route, enjoying views of the Moss Garden, the Dry Landscape Garden, the Kikaku Waterfall, the Garden of Juryū-an, the Pond Garden and the White Gravel and Pine Garden from open-sided corridors or through spotless plate-glass walls. The experience culminates with a succession of so-called “living Japanese paintings”, in which you sit in a tatami room and look out through a window that’s precisely placed to frame a landscape and make it resemble a painted scroll.

Two traditional teahouses serve matcha and sweets from ¥1500. Juryū-an is a copy of a teahouse in Kyoto’s former Imperial Palace, Katsura Rikyū, and looks over a peaceful moss-covered garden; in the smaller Juraku-an, bowls of green tea are made with water boiled in a kettle of pure gold, said to aid longevity. The two coffee shops in the museum are less atmospheric but cheaper, and the views just as fine.

The galleries

The museum’s galleries, which also spread into a newer annexe, display Japanese artworks dating from 1870 to the present day. These include the largest collection of paintings by Yokoyama Taikan, whose delicate ink drawings and deep colour screens had a huge influence on modern Japanese art. There’s also a section on kitsch art from children’s books, and a ceramics hall holding works by Kawai Kanjirō – a local potter who participated actively in the mingei (folk art) movement begun by Yanagi Sōetsu – and Kitaōji Rosanjin, a potter and cook, whose pieces set out to complement and enhance the food served on them.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ADACHI MUSEUM OF ART

By train The JR station at Yasugi (安来市) is on the San’in line, and holds luggage lockers plus a useful tourist information office (daily 9am–6pm; 085 922 6317). It’s served by frequent trains between Matsue Station (18min; ¥410) and Yonago (8min; ¥200). Free shuttle buses, not timed to coincide with specific trains, make the 20min run between the station and the museum (17 daily). When you enter the museum, be sure to pick up a free ticket for the trip back to the station, as seats are limited; you have to choose an exact time, but you can swap for another one if necessary.

Mount Daisen

大山

East of Matsue, the coastal rail and road routes cross into the neighbouring prefecture of Tottori-ken, and pass through the uninteresting industrial city of Yonago (米子). The terminus for trains from Okayama on the JR Hakubi line, Yonago is also the gateway for Mount Daisen, which at 1711m is the highest mountain in the Chūgoku region, and home to beautiful beech forests and ancient temples. Daisen has the largest ski slopes in western Japan and sees heavy snowfall from November to April; it’s also known for the Daisen Ice and Snow Festival, which takes place over three days at the end of January, with fireworks lighting up the night sky and an amazing display of ice sculptures. The main hub for accommodation is the village of Daisen-ji (大山寺), which offers access to the ski slopes in winter and to hiking trails in summer.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MOUNT DAISEN

By bus Buses depart from stop 4 outside Yonago Station for Daisen-ji (5 daily; 50min; ¥750).

Tourist information A couple of minutes’ walk east of the bus stop, the tourist information booth (daily 8.30am–5pm; 085 952 2502, bit.ly/daisen-ji) stocks local maps and can help with accommodation.

Kurayoshi and around

倉吉

Set just inland from the coast, 60km east of Yonago and 50km east of Tottori, the small town of KURAYOSHI is the jumping-off point for the hot-spring resort of Misasa and the temple hike up to Nageire-dō on Mount Mitoku. In its own right, Kurayoshi holds some pleasant architecture and is a decent place to spend the night. It also attracts touring devotees of the hugely popular manga and anime series Detective Conan, known in English as Case Closed. The eponymous schoolboy detective comes from the coastal town of Hokuei, 10km northwest of Kurayoshi, and all sorts of tours, attractions and facilities in the prefecture now bear his name, including local trains, rail passes, and even Tottori’s airport.

Akagawara

赤瓦

If you have an hour or two to spare in Kurayoshi, head for the picturesque Akagawara neighbourhood, 4km southwest of the station (follow signs for Shirokabe-dozō-gun, 白壁土蔵群). Several of the refurbished Edo- and Meiji-era black-and-white storehouses that stand next to the shallow Tama-gawa here now hold souvenir and craft shops. Look out for beautiful Kurayoshi-gasuri items, made from locally woven, indigo-dyed cloth.

Misasa and around

三朝 • Buses from platform 3 at Kurayoshi Station (19 daily; 24min; ¥470); get off at Daigaku Byoin-mae stop

The hot-spring resort of Misasa stretches beside the Misasa-gawa, 10km southeast of Kurayoshi. Public onsen and hot-water footbaths punctuate its streets and alleyways, and there’s even a free rotemburo (open 24hr) in the river itself. Bamboo screens partially surround the pools, but onlookers from the adjacent bridge have a bird’s-eye view of proceedings, so this is one communal bathing experience that’s not for the shrinking violet.

The narrow street that runs parallel to the river’s south bank is dotted with interesting little craft shops and galleries, and there’s an appealing shrine tucked away amid the trees a few blocks further back, not far west of the town’s original hot springs.

Nageire-dō

投入堂 • 1010 Mitoku • April–Dec 8am–5pm • ¥400 • 085 843 2666, mitokusan.jp • Bus from Misasa (15min; ¥390)

An 8km bus ride beyond Misasa will bring you to Mount Mitoku (三徳山), home to the legendary shrine of Nageire-dō, which belongs to the Sanbutsu-ji (山佛寺) temple. The rugged path up, which is equipped with chains in places to help you scramble over massive boulders, starts from the main temple complex, across the road from the bus stop. It takes an hour’s climbing to reach Nageire-dō, during which you’ll pass a belfry and several smaller temple buildings, including Monju-dō (文殊堂) and Jizō-dō (地蔵堂), similarly perched on a precipice and offering spectacular views.

Nageire-dō itself, nestling under an overhanging rock and balanced precariously on stilts that grip the cliff face below, is an incredible feat of engineering, No one knows quite how it was built; legend has it that it was thrown into place by an ascetic priest named Ennogyoja. Certainly Sanbutsu-ji has been a centre for Buddhism since the eighth century, and Nageire-dō is thought to date back to the eleventh or twelfth.

On your way down, try the local speciality of sansai-ryōri, mountain vegetables and tofu, at one of the restaurants at the foot of the main temple complex, near the bus stop.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KURAYOSHI AND AROUND

By train Kurayoshi Station is on the JR San’in line; buses run from here to Misasa.

Destinations Matsue (hourly; 1hr); Tottori (every 30min; 30min).

Tourist information There’s an information booth outside Kurayoshi Station, to the left beyond the bus stands (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm; 085 824 5024), and another at 2568 Uo-machi in the Akagawara district (daily 8.30am–5pm; 085 822 1200), which has a few free bikes to lend visitors.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Misasa is a particularly picturesque place to spend the night, and you’ll come across yukata-clad visitors wandering through the streets, from inn to rotemburo or bar and back again.

KURAYOSHI AND AROUND

Bokoro 望湖楼 4-25 Hawai Onsen, Yurihama-chō 085 835 2221, bokoro.com. This wonderful ryokan, on the western shores of Lake Togo, 6km northeast of Kurayoshi Station, holds large and very comfortable Japanese- and Western-style rooms, but the real reason to come is for the fresh seafood dinners – crab is a local speciality – and the public baths, set out on a raised structure in the middle of the lake and offering 360-degree views. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥25,000

Modern モダン 1075-52 Taish-machi 085 824 6885. Now, this is a weird find. The name is intentionally ironic, since even outside the entrance you’ll see retro seating and tiling; inside there are NES games to play, old movie posters, and usually a few hipster types. They serve suitably old-school food – the curry rice is most reliable (¥750), though there’s even an odd ramen – but most are here for a cola float or some French toast. Daily 11am–10pm.

MISASA

Kiya Ryokan 木屋旅館 895 Miyasa 085 843 0521, misasa.co.jp. This friendly old ryokan, on the river’s south bank (you can spot its mint-green roofs from the bus stop) holds ravishing public spaces as well as spacious, en-suite tatami rooms and three onsen, two private and one communal. Rates include two excellent meals, served in private rooms, and shuttle service to and from Kurayoshi. ¥31,320

Tottori

鳥取

The provincial capital of TOTTORI, 120km east of Matsue, is famous in Japan for having the country’s only substantial sand dunes, which belong to the San’in Coast National Park. Most visitors come to spend some time in the dunes and snap photographs of the resident camels, but the coastline around here is blessed with fetching beaches and headlands, bedecked with pretty flora and interesting geological formations.

Tottori sand dunes

鳥取砂丘, Tottori Sakyū • Chairlift daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥200 • 085 722 2111, tottorisakyu.com • Buses leave from bus platform 4 next to Tottori Station (¥320; 20min)

Designated a national monument, and the haunting setting for the existentially alarming 1960s novel and film Woman in the Dunes, the Tottori sand dunes are 7km north of the city centre, outside the satellite community of Hamasaka. Although they only cover a total area of around thirty square kilometres – and that’s been dwindling for many years, despite attempts to shore them up by dumping sand into the sea nearby – once you’re in the enclave they do feel quite magically exotic. The appeal is even augmented by the presence of camels, imported so visitors can unleash their inner Lawrence of Arabia.

Buses from the city centre can take you either to Sakyū Kaikan, right beside the dunes, or to the Sakyū Centre (砂丘センター), which overlooks them from a hill but is essentially just a souvenir and food stop for the many tour buses. A chairlift runs between the centre and the edge of the dunes, but you can just as easily walk between the two.

The Uradome coastline

浦富海岸, Uradome Kaigan

The Uradome coastline covers the 15km between the edge of the Tottori sand dunes and the eastern edge of the prefecture, which, together with the dunes, forms part of the San’in Coast National Park. Its shore is fringed with strangely shaped rocks and islands jutting out of the water, some topped with pine trees, and many sculpted with wave-carved tunnels, caves and openings. You get stunning views from the clifftop paths along much of the pine-covered coastline looking out over the blue-green Sea of Japan, and if you follow one of the steep paths down through the trees to the shore, you’ll find numerous sandy bays and bathing beaches.

With a car, you can drive along the coast from the sand dunes on Route 178, stopping at the various parking places en route. If you’re using public transport, take a bus bound for Iwai-onsen (岩井温泉) and get off at Uradome-kaigan-guchi (浦富海岸口). Otherwise, sightseeing cruises are a great way to enjoy the scenery.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TOTTORI

By plane Tottori Airport ( 085 728 1150), 10km northwest of the city, was revamped in 2018, in anticipation of an increase in visitors, and half-jokingly renamed Tottori Sand Dunes Conan Airport, in honour of the manga detective (of whom there are now plenty of statues). However, as yet no additions have been made to the flights to and from Tokyo Haneda (5 daily; 1hr 15min), which have connecting buses to and from town (20min; ¥460).

By train Tottori Station is on the coastal San’in line, and is also served by direct JR trains to and from Himeji on the south coast, the nearest Shinkansen station.

Destinations Himeji (8 daily; 1hr 30min); Matsue (5 daily; 1hr 30min); Osaka (5 daily; 2hr 30min); Yonago (8 daily; 1hr 40min).

By bus Long-distance buses stop next to the train station.

Destinations Hiroshima (5 daily; 4hr 50min); Kyoto (3 daily; 4hr); Osaka (13 daily; 3hr 30min); Tokyo (daily; 10hr 30min).

Tourist information The local information booth is by the north exit of Tottori Station (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 085 726 7218, tottori-tour.jp).

TOURS

Sightseeing boats The Uradome Coast Excursion Boat operates 40min sightseeing tours from Iwami, 16km northeast of Tottori (daily, every 30min except in bad weather, March–Nov 9.10am–4.10pm; ¥1400; 085 773 1212, yourun1000.com). To reach the port, take a bus (40min; ¥620) bound for Iwai-onsen (岩井温泉) from platform 4 outside Tottori Station, and get off at Shimameguri Yuronsen-noriba (島巡り 湯論戦-のりば).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

There are plenty of good-value places to eat in the shopping arcades that run north of Tottori Station, and also a handful of restaurants out at the sand dunes.

New Ōtani ホテルニューオータニ 2-153 Ima-machi 085 723 1111, newotani-tottori.jp. This upscale business chain next to the Daimaru department store has elegant standard and luxury contemporary rooms. Rates include breakfast. ¥22,450

Green Hotel Morris グリーンホテルモーリス 1-107 Ima-machi 085 722 2331, hotel-morris.co.jp/tottori. Set behind the Daimaru department store, across from the station, this good-value business hotel has a swanky lobby that leads to only slightly less swanky rooms, many of which look onto an alleyway. The economy doubles have slightly smaller beds but are otherwise the same as the pricier versions. A Western-style breakfast costs ¥550. ¥11,500

< Back to Western Honshū

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NAMETOKO GORGE

Shikoku

Takamatsu and around

Kotohira

Naoshima and the Art Islands of the Seto Inland Sea

Tokushima

Around Tokushima

Kōchi and around

Western Kōchi-ken

Uwajima and around

North of Uwajima

Matsuyama and around

Shikoku

With beautiful scenery, a laidback atmosphere, friendly people and several notable sights, it is perhaps surprising that Shikoku, Japan’s fourth main island, is the least visited by international tourists. This tranquil place, nestling in the crook between Honshū and Kyūshū, offers elements of traditional Japan that are often hard to find elsewhere, making it an excellent destination for travellers wanting a more authentic experience. The remarkable 88-temple pilgrimage, historic castles and gardens and unique arts and crafts are some of Shikoku’s attractions – but equally appealing are the rural pace of life, little-visited villages and idyllic surrounding islands.

According to legend, Shikoku was the second island (after Awaji-shima) born to Izanagi and Izanami, the gods who are considered to be Japan’s parents. Its ancient name was Iyo-no-futana, and it was divided into four main provinces: Awa (now Tokushima-ken), Iyo (Ehime-ken), Sanuki (Kagawa-ken) and Tosa (Kōchi-ken). These epithets are still used today when referring to the different prefectures’ cuisines and traditional arts. Apart from being the scene of a decisive battle between the Taira and Minamoto clans in the twelfth century, Shikoku has had a relatively peaceful history, due in part to its isolation from the rest of Japan. The physical separation ended with the opening of the Seto Ōhashi in 1988, a series of six bridges that leapfrog the islands of the Seto-nakai (Seto Inland Sea), carrying both trains and cars. It has since been joined by the Akashi Kaikyō Ōhashi suspension bridge – connecting Shikoku to Honshū via Awaji-shima, the island to the east of Tokushima – and the Nishi Seto Expressway, better known as the Shimanami Kaidō, running along ten bridges spanning nine islands on Shikoku’s northern coast.

Most of Shikoku’s population of just over four million lives in one of the island’s four prefectural capitals: Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kōchi and Matsuyama. The island is split by a vast mountain range that runs from Tsurugi-san in the east to Ishizuchi-san, Shikoku’s tallest peak, in the west. The northern coast, facing the Inland Sea, is heavily developed, in contrast to the predominantly rural south, where the unimpeded kuroshio (black current) of the Pacific Ocean has carved a rugged coastline of sheer cliffs and oversized boulders. The climate across the island is generally mild, although the coasts can be lashed by typhoons, and the mountains see snow in the winter.

You should set aside at least a week to get around all of Shikoku’s four prefectures. If you only have a day or two, head straight for Matsuyama’s splendid castle and the hot springs at nearby Dōgo, or pay a visit to the landscaped gardens of Ritsurin-kōen in Takamatsu, before hopping on a ferry over to the idyllic, contemporary art-filled islands of the Inland Sea. With more time, you could explore the lovely island of Shōdoshima, the whirlpools at Naruto, the coastal village of Hiwasa (where turtles come ashore to lay their eggs each summer), or the surfing spots of Kaifu and Shishikui. Shikoku’s southern coast and its dramatically rocky capes Ashizuri and Muroto, and the Shimanto-gawa, one of Japan’s most beautiful rivers, also shouldn’t be missed.

Despite Shikoku’s laidback vibe, the popularity of the island’s 88-temple pilgrimage means that, even in the countryside, you’re unlikely to be stuck for somewhere to stay.

GETTING AROUND SHIKOKU

By train Getting around by train is easy enough, but will require planning and coordination. JR Shikoku runs daily express trains, though the local train services are not as frequent as on the mainland. There are also five small, private railway companies. The All Shikoku Rail Pass ( shikoku-railwaytrip.com/railpass) allows travel on JR and the private lines for three days (from ¥9000), four days (¥10,000), five days (¥11,000) or seven days (¥13,000). Many Shikoku railway stations are now free wi-fi hotspots.

iStock

AWA ODORI FESTIVAL, TOKUSHIMA

Highlights

88-temple pilgrimage Follow in the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi on the Shikoku pilgrimage, the longest and most famous in all of Japan, or opt for one of the shorter routes.

Ritsurin-kōen Enjoy a peaceful bowl of matcha tea in the elegant teahouse of Takamatsu’s beautifully landscaped garden, a century in the making.

Art Islands of the Seto Inland Sea Exciting contemporary art and architecture combine with friendly fishing villages on the islands of Naoshima, Teshima, Inujima and Shōdoshima in the Inland Sea.

Awa Odori Over a million revellers let their hair down at Tokushima’s annual summer dance festival, when the city’s streets sway with dancers in colourful cotton kimono.

Nametoko Gorge Explore the forest-fringed tracks of Nametoko for pristine waterfalls, wildlife spotting and outstanding natural beauty.

Matsuyama This easy-going castle city boasts good nightlife, an important literary history, a famous hot-spring resort and a very unusual temple.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

By car Renting a car will give you more flexibility than public transport and really is the best option if you want to get to the villages of the Iya Valley or explore western Kōchi-ken and the Shimanto-gawa area. Major car rental companies such as Nippon Rent-A-Car ( nrgroup-global.com/en) all have offices in Shikoku’s main cities.

Takamatsu and around

Even before the Seto Ōhashi connected Shikoku’s rail network with Honshū, the port of TAKAMATSU (高松), capital of Kagawa-ken, was a major gateway into the island. Warlord Chikamasa Ikoma built his castle here in 1588, but the city and surrounding area’s history go back a long way before that. Most notably, the priest and mystic Kōbō Daishi was born in this prefecture, the banished Emperor Sutoku was murdered here in 1164 and, 21 years later, the Taira and Minamoto clans clashed at nearby Yashima. Ikoma’s castle was virtually destroyed in air raids during World War II, along with most of the city.

Today, Takamatsu is a sprawling yet attractive cosmopolitan city with close to 420,000 inhabitants, and is peppered with covered shopping arcades and chic boutiques. Next to Takamatsu Station, you can’t miss the thirty-storey Takamatsu Symbol Tower, which is the city’s tallest building and anchors the Sunport complex of offices, shops, convention halls and ferry piers. Northwest of here, the red-glass lighthouse at the end of the Tamamo breakwater is a good place to aim for if you’re out for a seaside stroll or want to join local runners for a jog. Further east is the trendy Kitahama Alley (北浜アリー), a small area of brick warehouses and old buildings that have been converted into appealing cafés and boutiques. As 21st-century as all this is, the city’s star attraction remains Ritsurin-kōen, one of Japan’s most classical, spacious and beautifully designed gardens. They are easily accessible on a day-trip from Honshū, but it’s well worth staying longer so you can also explore Shikoku Mura – the open-air museum of traditional houses at Yashima – or Kotohira-gū, the ancient shrine an hour’s train ride west of the city. Takamatsu is also a gateway to two of the most appealing islands in the Inland Sea: Shōdoshima, a mini-Shikoku with its own temple circuit and scenic attractions; and delightful Naoshima, a must for contemporary art and architecture fans with several outstanding galleries designed by Andō Tadao.

THE SHIKOKU PILGRIMAGE

Wherever you are in Shikoku, you’ll seldom be far from its famous pilgrimage, established by disciples of the Buddhist saint Kōbō Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism. It takes over two months to walk the 1400km between the 88 temples on the prescribed route, and plenty of pilgrims, known as henro-san, still complete the journey this way – though far more now go by bicycle, motorbike, car, train or on bus tours. The number of temples represents the 88 evils that, according to Shingon Buddhism, bedevil human life.

HENRO-SAN

Henro-san are easy to spot, since they usually dress in traditional short, white cotton coats with coloured shoulder bands and broad-rimmed straw hats, and often clutch rosaries, brass bells and long wooden staffs. Many of the 150,000 annual pilgrims are past retirement age, but younger Japanese and even foreign visitors are increasingly experiencing this religious journey.

The expression “Daishi and I go together” is usually written on pilgrims’ robes and hats, and this is thought to act as a symbolic link with the pilgrimage’s founder and the Buddhist values that he represents. Many of the other accessories also have spiritual meaning and historical significance, such as the staff – believed to be the embodiment of Kōbō Daishi. These items can be purchased at the first temple, Ryōzen-ji, and also at a number of shops in Tokushima.

THE ROUTE

The present-day headquarters of the Shingon sect is Kōya-san, in Wakayama-ken on the mainland, and it is tradition to visit here at the start of the pilgrimage before travelling to Shikoku. Once you’re on the island, there are a number of ways to do the pilgrimage, but the conventional route starts at Ryōzen-ji, near Naruto in Tokushima-ken. From there, pilgrims typically follow a circular route that winds its way clockwise around the island, stopping at all the temples en route to the 88th, Ōkubo-ji, in Kagawa-ken. This approach, known as jun-uchi, has the practical advantage of making the route a bit easier to navigate, as the markers are set up for pilgrims travelling this way. It’s also quite common to go in reverse order (called gyaku-uchi) and begin at Temple 88.

Many temples allow pilgrims to stay for free (or for around ¥4000 per person with meals). It’s a lucrative business: you’ll see lots of pilgrims dropping coins beside the thousands of Buddhas along the way, and they fork out again at the temples, where an official stamp costs around ¥300.

SHORTER COURSES

There’s no obligation to attempt the entire 1400km pilgrimage; it’s very common for both Japanese and overseas tourists to only complete sections of the journey, or try a few one-day walks to the major temples.

A popular one-day route is from Chikurin-ji (No. 31) to Sekkei-ji (No. 33), passing Godai-san and the beach at Katsurahama on the way; this 13.2km course is convenient if you’re staying in Kōchi. An easier option is the 7.7km walk from Dainichi-ji (No. 13) to Ido-ji (No. 17), which can be done as a day-trip from Tokushima and takes you through quiet residential areas and rice fields.

WEBSITES AND BOOKS

Check out wwwtb.mlit.go.jp/shikoku/88navi/en for more information on the trail, which offers everything from detailed route maps to information on travel times; also worth checking out is Naoyuki Matsushita’s henro88map.com/pdf/Henro-ENG.pdf. Several books in English describe the 88-temple hike – here are a few of the best ones:

Paul Barach Fighting Monks and Burning Mountains: Misadventures on a Buddhist Pilgrimage. A funny and reflective account of Barach’s unusual experiences while making the journey.

Amy Chavez Running the Shikoku Pilgrimage: 900 Miles to Enlightenment. A book by Japan Times columnist Chavez who ran the route (almost a marathon a day) and recounts the experience with humour and humility.

Lisa Dempster Neon Pilgrim. This first-hand account of a young, unemployed Australian woman’s pilgrimage is both honest and inspiring.

Miyazaki Tateki Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide. This guide, currently in its fourth edition, is an excellent choice. It has maps, accommodation and other information essential for a pilgrimage, whether you go on foot or use transport.

Ritsurin-kōen

栗林公園 • Chūō-dōri • Daily, opening hours vary but usually summer 5.30am–7pm and winter 7am–5pm; check website for details • ¥410, audio guide ¥200, boat rides on Nanko (daily 9am–5pm) ¥610 • 087 833 7411, my-kagawa.jp/en/ritsurin • The East Gate is the garden’s main entrance, but JR trains stop at least every hour at Ritsurin-kōen Kita-guchi (栗林公園北口), near the North Gate; at both entrances, you can buy tickets and pick up a free English map

Takamatsu’s one must-see sight, Ritsurin-kōen, is 2.5km south down Chūō-dōri from the JR station. The formal garden, Japan’s largest at 750,000 square metres, lies at the foot of Shiun-zan. Its construction began in the early seventeenth century and took several feudal lords over a hundred years to complete. The gardens were designed to present magnificent vistas throughout the seasons, from an arched red bridge amid a snowy landscape in winter, to ponds full of purple and white irises in early summer.

From the East Gate main entrance, you can either follow a route through the Nantei, South Garden, to the left (takes around an hour), or the Hokutei, North Garden, to the right (takes around 40min). It’s possible to enter or exit the garden at the North Gate, but the route from the East Gate makes for a more pleasant meander.

Nantei

南庭 • Kikugetsu-tei teahouse (掬月亭) Daily 9am–4pm • Free; sencha or matcha ¥500/¥700 • Higurashi-tei teahouse (日暮亭) Sat & Sun 9am–4.30pm • Free; matcha ¥500

The more stylized of the two gardens, Nantei has paths around three lakes, dotted with islands with carefully pruned pine trees. The highlight here is a visit to the delightful Kikugetsu-tei (or “Scooping the Moon”) teahouse overlooking Nanko, the South Lake; the experience is all the better if you stop in for a cup of sencha or matcha. Dating from around 1640 and named after a Tang-dynasty Chinese poem, the teahouse exudes tranquillity, with its screens pulled back to reveal perfect garden vistas. Viewed from across the lake, it’s just as impressive, swaddled in trees that cast a shimmering reflection over the water. The Nantei also has the less elaborate but more secluded Higurashi-tei teahouse, set in a shady grove, where you can also enjoy a cup of matcha.

Hokutei

北庭

Hokutei has a more natural appearance than the South Garden and is based around two ponds – Fuyosho-ike, dotted with lotus flowers, and Gunochi-ike, where feudal lords once hunted ducks and which now blooms with irises in June. Keep an eye out for Tsurukame-matsu, just to the left of the main park building, a black pine tree shaped like a crane spreading its wings and stood atop a turtle; it’s considered to be the most beautiful of the 29,190 trees in the gardens. Behind this is a line of pines called the Byōbu-matsu, after the folding-screen painting (byōbu) they are supposed to resemble.

Sanuki Folkcraft Museum

讃岐民芸館 • Sanuki Mingeikan • Wed–Sun 8.30am–5pm • Free

After you’ve viewed the gardens, head towards the East Gate, where you’ll find the Sanuki Folkcraft Museum displaying beautiful examples of local basketwork, ceramics (known as rihei-yaki), furniture and huge, brightly painted banners and kites. Though some of the pieces are over a hundred years old, the designs are surprisingly modern. Also of interest are some pieces by twentieth-century Japanese-American architect and furniture designer George Nakashima.

Takamatsu-jō

高松城 • Ferry-dōri • Daily sunrise to sunset • ¥200 • 087 851 1521, takamatsujyo.com

A couple of minutes’ walk east of the JR station is Tamamo-kōen (玉藻公園), a small but pleasant park that contains the ruins of the city’s castle, Takamatsu-jō. Four hundred years ago, the stronghold was one of the three major Japanese fortresses protected by sea, with three rings of moats surrounding the central keep. Like many of Japan’s castles, Takamatsu-jō was decommissioned in 1869 following the Meiji Restoration; all that remains today are a couple of turrets, parts of the moat, and grounds that are only a ninth of their original size. Still, the castle grounds host a fantastic display of blossom on the cherry trees in spring, and there are great views out across the Inland Sea. At the park’s east end, you can also look around the very traditional Hiunkaku, a sprawling wooden mansion surrounded by stunted pines. Rebuilt in 1917, it’s now used as a public event space.

Kagawa Museum

香川県立ミュージアム, Kagawa Kenritsu Myújimu • Ferry-dōri • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥410 • 087 822 0247, www.pref.kagawa.lg.jp/kmuseum/foreign

Immediately east of Tamamo-kōen is the Kagawa Museum, combining displays of historical information and fine art in a modern building located on the old castle grounds. Head to the third floor to see the main exhibition, which has lots of high-tech displays as well as some impressive relics and life-sized replicas of local landmarks, such as the 7m-tall copper lantern from Marogame. There is also a special section relating to Kōbō Daishi, with some amazing giant mandala paintings and ancient statues. On the ground floor, you can try on a multilayered kimono or a kabuto, a samurai warrior’s armour, and have your photo taken.

Takamatsu City Museum of Art

高松市美術館, Takamatsu-shi Bijutsukan • 10-4 Ashiyamachi • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm • ¥200 • 087 823 1711, www.city.takamatsu.kagawa.jp/museum/takamatsu

Just off Chūō-dōri is the modern Takamatsu City Museum of Art. The small but impressive permanent collection includes a large variety of Sanuki lacquerware, as well as a superb display of Western and Japanese contemporary art. The Western art collection is almost entirely made up of works by major artists such as Pablo Picasso, Jasper Johns, Andy Warhol, David Hockney and Henri Matisse, making the entrance ticket a real bargain. There’s also a library where you’re free to browse art books and videos – some in English – and the spacious entrance hall is used for dance and music performances.

Shōtengai

East of Chūō-dōri are Takamatsu’s main commercial and entertainment districts, which are connected by covered shōtengai (shopping arcades). This is a lively area to wander around, both day and night, with a seemingly endless array of shops and restaurants. The longest shōtengai – comprised of the Marugame-machi, Minami Shin-machi and Tamachi arcades – stretches for 2.7km and is said to be the longest in Japan. Running parallel is Lion-dōri, which leads from Katahara-machi arcade into the Tokiwa Shin-machi and then Tokiwa-gai arcades.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TAKAMATSU

By plane Takamatsu Airport ( 087 814 3355, takamatsu-airport.com) lies 16km south of the city, 45min away by bus (¥780) or a 35min taxi ride (¥4700).

Destinations Hong Kong (4 weekly; 3hr 45min); Naha (daily; 2hr 5min); Seoul (6 weekly; 1hr 40min); Shanghai (5 weekly; 2hr 15min); Taipei (10 weekly; 2hr 45min); Tokyo Haneda (13 daily; 1hr 15min); Tokyo Narita (3 daily; 1hr 25min).

By train Takamatsu Station (Kagawa) and Takamatsu Chikkō Station (for the Kotoden Line to Kotohira or Yashima) are at the northern (seaside) end of the central thoroughfare, Chūō-dōri, and a 10min walk from the heart of the city.

Destinations Kōchi (hourly; 2hr 15min); Kotohira (every 15min; 1hr); Matsuyama (hourly; 2hr 30min); Okayama (every 30min; 1hr); Tokushima (hourly; 1hr 10min).

By bus Long-distance and most local buses pull in near to the JR train station, at the northern end of Chūō-dōri.

Destinations Kōbe (every 30min; 2hr 50min); Kōchi (11 daily; 2hr 5min); Matsuyama (11 daily; 2hr 40min); Osaka (Namba; every 20min; 3hr 20min); Tokyo (daily; 10hr 15min).

By ferry Ferries from Kōbe (¥1990 one-way, ¥3790 return; ferry.co.jp) dock a 10min bus ride from the city centre at Takamatsu-East; a free shuttle bus transports passengers to JR Takamatsu Station. Ferry connections with Shōdoshima, Naoshima and Uno are at the Sunport ferry terminal, a short walk east of the train station.

Destinations Kōbe (4 daily; 3hr 30min); Naoshima (hydrofoil: 5 daily; 30min; & ferry: 5 daily; 50min); Shōdoshima (hydrofoil: 16 daily; 35min; & ferry: 25 daily; 1hr); Teshima (3–5 daily; 35min).

GETTING AROUND

Laid out on a grid, Takamatsu is an easy city to walk or cycle around. Otherwise, you’ll find that trains and buses are perfectly user-friendly, and good for getting to sights outside the city.

By train As well as JR, Takamatsu has the Kotoden network whose trains run to Yashima or Kotohira. Kawara-machi Station (瓦町), where the Kotoden’s three main lines intersect, is beside the Kawaramachi FLAG department store at the end of the Tokiwa Shin-machi arcade, while Kotoden Takamatsu Chikkō Station (高松築港) is next to Tamamo-kōen, a few minutes’ walk from JR Takamatsu Station. If you’re heading from Takamatsu Chikkō Station to Yashima, you’ll need to change at Kawaramachi.

By bus Buses for Ritsurin-kōen and Yashima run from the stops outside Kotoden Takamatsu Chikkō Station at the top of Chūō-dōri.

By bike You can rent bikes from the cavernous rent-a-cycle offices and parking lot beneath JR Takamatsu Station. At ¥100 for six hours or ¥200 for a full day, this is an absolute steal and the best way to see the city. You need to register first, but it’s a very quick and simple process; the paperwork can be done in English. Make sure to park your bicycle in designated areas otherwise it could be impounded and incur a ¥1500 retrieval fee.

By car Eki Rent-a-Car ( 087 821 1341, ekiren.co.jp) has an office at Takamatsu JR Station, and Toyota Rent-a-Car ( 087 851 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp) has an office a 2min walk to the south.

INFORMATION

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist office (daily 9am–8pm; 087 826 0170) with friendly English-speaking staff on the first floor of the train station.

I-PAL The Kagawa International Exchange Centre, better known as I-PAL (Tues–Sun 9am–6pm; 087 837 5908, i-pal.or.jp), is a convenient facility with a library of foreign-language books, magazines and newspapers and free computer terminals with internet access (30min). Here, you can pick up the free information sheet Takamatsu Information Board (TIA), which carries details of what’s on in town. I-PAL is at the northwest corner of Chūō-kōen, 750m south of Takamatsu Station.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Takamatsu has many business hotels, with plenty near the station – the better ones are listed below. More upmarket options can be found around Chūō-dōri.

Guesthouse Chottoco-Ma ちょっとこま 3-7-5 Ogimachi 090 6548 8735, chottoco-ma.com. Small, tidy guesthouse with friendly and helpful owners, this is one of the very few budget options in Takamatsu. It’s near Shōwachō Station, just one stop by train from JR Takamatsu Station. All facilities are shared. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥6000

JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu JRホテルクレメント高松 1-1 Hamanochō 087 811 1111, jrclement.co.jp. With great Inland Sea views, spacious rooms and plenty of top-notch facilities including six restaurants and bars, this remains the city’s swankiest hotel, right next to JR Takamatsu Station. From May to August, they also open the beer garden on the fifth floor. Breakfast included in the price. ¥28,725

Hotel Kawaroku ホテル川六エルステージ 1-2 Hyakken-machi 087 821 5666, kawaroku.co.jp/english. Centrally located business hotel that has been designed to appeal to female visitors, with on-site spa facilities and a women-only floor. The excellent tatami rooms are the same price as the standard Western-style ones; all are clean and functional. Breakfast and laptop rentals are available for an additional charge, and there’s also a couple of large public baths. ¥8400

Takamatsu Tōkyū Rei Hotel 高松東急REIホテル 9-9 Hyogo-machi 087 821 0109, tokyuhotelsjapan.com/takamatsu-r. It’s nothing fancy, but the rooms at this well-placed chain hotel are modern, very reasonably priced and have a good range of facilities. There are non-smoking floors. ¥15,300

EATING MAP

Takamatsu has a wide range of restaurants and cafés, many conveniently concentrated around the central arcade district, just off Chūō-dōri. Like Shikoku’s other seaside cities, this is a great place to sample fresh and delicious seafood. The other local speciality is sanuki udon, thick white noodles usually served with a separate flask of stock and a variety of condiments.

Gowariyasu 吾割安 6-3 Fukudamachi 087 851 5030. This atmospheric izakaya, decorated with old film posters, record covers and other memorabilia, offers a wide range of tasty, inexpensive dishes such as yakitori (from ¥140), ramen noodle soup (¥680) and gyōza dumplings (¥420). Daily 6pm–1am, Fri & Sat till 3am.

Merikenya めりけんや 6-20 Nishinomaru-chō 087 811 6358, merikenya.com. Located just opposite the plaza in front of the JR station, this branch of the Merikenya chain (one of three in Takamatsu) has high-quality udon noodles – hence the long queues at lunchtime. Meat-topped niku-bukkake noodles and mountain vegetable yama-bukkake noodles start at ¥400 for the smallest size. Daily 7am–8pm.

Okageya おかげや 1F Tamura Bldg, 1-12-1 Kawara-machi 087 862 6004. Specializing in fish and country-style cuisine, Okageya serves gourmet-standard dishes at very reasonable prices. A beautifully presented sashimi platter for two is ¥2400, and there are many tasty side dishes to choose from, such as mountain potato tempura (¥430), grilled ika (¥570) and tofu salad (¥520). You can opt for counter or private tatami-room seating. Mon–Fri 11.30am–1pm & 5pm–midnight, Sat 5pm–midnight.

Ramjham ラムジャム Minami Bldg, 2-3 Tamachi 087 834 8505. Friendly, Indian-run place serving thirty different kinds of Indian and Nepali curries (from ¥750), tandoori-cooked meats (from ¥600) and biryanis (from ¥400). If you really want to indulge, there’s an all-you-can-eat-and-drink deal for ¥4000. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm & 5–10pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm.

SHIGI China Kitchen シギチャイナキッチン 2-1-28 Kawara-machi 087 802 5788. It’s easy to spot this dining bar with its distinctive sign. Shigi, the friendly chef, cooks a wide variety of Chinese-style dishes using local seasonal ingredients. The mabo-dōfu (tofu in spicy sauce; ¥750), and fish and vegetable itame stir-fries (from ¥600) are highly recommended. Tues–Sun 6pm–1am.

Szechwan Restaurant Chin スーツアンレストラン陳 29F Maritime Plaza, 2-1 Sunport 087 811 0477, sisen.jp/takamatsu. This is the most appealing and certainly the most welcoming of Sunport’s top-of-the-tower trio of upmarket restaurants. The Chinese cuisine is authentically spicy, the decor is chic and the views are spectacular. The menu is mostly seasonal courses, but you can also order dishes such as and sauteed lobster with chilli sauce (¥3750). Expect to pay around ¥8000 for dinner and from ¥1300 for the much smaller lunch course. Daily 11.30am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Tenkatsu 天勝 7-8 Hyogo-machi 087 821 5380, tenkatsuhonten.jp. The interior of this reputable fish restaurant is dominated by a central sunken tank, around which you can sit, either at the jet-black counter bar or in tatami booths. Kimono-clad waitresses will bring you your pick of the fish, in sushi (from ¥1080), as part of a sushi platter (¥1620) or in elaborate set-course meals such as kaiseki courses (from ¥5400). Mon–Fri 11am–1.30pm & 4–9.30pm, Sat & Sun 11am–8.30pm.

Udon Ichiba うどん市場 2-8 Hyogo-machi 087 823 0388, udon-ichiba.jp. This popular sanuki udon restaurant is a great place to fill up if you’re on a budget – it’s just ¥330 for a large bowl of the simplified kake-udon, which comes without toppings. If you’re hungrier, there are more filling shabu-shabu and bukkake dishes (from ¥870 for a large portion). Honetsuki-dori (chicken on the bone) served with a spicy dipping sauce is popular as a side dish (¥880). Daily 10am–9pm, Sun till 8pm.

Umie ウミエ Kitahama Alley, 3-2 Kitahama-chō 087 811 7455, umie.info. Relax over great coffee (from ¥600) or tasty meals like hearty beef stew (¥1200), bagels (¥300) and pizza (¥1000) at this trendy joint, decorated with retro furniture and stacks of art books, magazines and LP records. Sometimes, there are live-music events here, and within the same complex there’s also a gift and stationery shop, a gallery and a secondhand furniture store. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 11am–11pm, Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am–9pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Takamatsu has a large nightlife scene for a provincial city. There is a surprisingly good range of bars to explore in the lanes off the central shōtengai (shopping arcades).

Amazon アマゾン 3F One-Foot Bldg, 4-21 Kajiya-machi 087 851 4560. Lively international bar playing 80s and 90s pop and rock, with dancing and retro video games. The owner speaks fluent English and will mix any cocktail you desire (from ¥500). Shots are ¥300 each, and there’s a variety of bar snacks such as pizza and hot dogs to nibble on. Closed first Mon of the month. Daily 8pm–5am.

Bar & Flair Recommend レコメンド 2F Kobabacho Nobunaga Bldg, 8-52 Furubaba-chō 087 823 3757. Takamatsu seems an unlikely place to find an Asia-Pacific Flair champion bartender, but Komoda-san’s nightly performances are not to be missed – expect flames and plenty of liquid nitrogen. This bar has low lighting, plush sofas and smart counter seating, attracting a nattily dressed local crowd. Prices range from ¥850 for a standard mix, and from ¥1000 for a tropical cocktail. Daily 7pm–5am.

King’s Yawd キングスヤード 1-2-2 Tokiwa-chō 087 837 2660, blog.livedoor.jp/kingsyawd. This laidback Jamaican bar has a friendly atmosphere and is presided over by the dreadlocked Satoko-san, who knows how to whip up a tasty plate of ackee and saltfish (¥1250); set-menu courses from ¥1700. Drinks are reasonably priced (beer ¥500), and cocktails (¥600) are poured generously. There are regular DJ, hip-hop and reggae events. Mon–Sat 6pm–3am.

Ruff House ラッフハウス B1F Oka Bldg, 2-3 Tamachi 087 835 9550, barruffhouse.com. This relaxed basement bar makes an intimate setting for nightly musical performances by young and upcoming local musicians. The schedule is eclectic – anything from Okinawan shamisen banjo to punk acoustic guitar – and the audience is enthusiastic. Arrive early to get a seat. Daily 7pm–midnight.

SHOPPING MAP

Sanuki lacquerware and papier-mâché dolls are the main local crafts in Takamatsu. The gift shops in Ritsurin-kōen and the Kagawa Museum, as well as the shops in the shōtengai, are good places to hunt for souvenirs.

Mingei Fukuda 民芸福田 9-7 Hyakken-machi 087 821 3237, mingei-fukuda.com. A fine emporium of locally produced folk crafts, pottery, glassware and paper goods. Look out for their beautiful hand-painted paper fans with designs by Keisuke Serizawa (¥4500). Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.

Miyawaki 宮脇書店 4-8 Marugame-chō 087 851 3733, www.miyawakishoten.com. This bookstore chain has a small selection of English-language, mass-market paperbacks and books about Japan on the sixth floor. Daily 9am–10pm.

Shikoku Shop 88 四国ショップ88 1F Maritime Plaza 087 822 0459, shikokushop88.com. This shop sells different types of well-known food and crafts produced in all of Shikoku’s prefectures. It’s a great place to pick up packaged sanuki udon noodles (from ¥325) or senbei rice crackers (¥600). Daily 10am–9pm.

DIRECTORY

Hospital Kagawa Kenritsu Chūō Byōin (Kagawa Prefectural Central Hospital) is at 1-2-1 Asahi-machi ( 087 811 3333).

Internet There are free terminals at I-PAL and free wi-fi spots at Kagawa Plaza (in the Takamatsu Symbol Tower), Ritsurin-kōen and the Kagawa Museum.

Police The main police station is at 2-30 Nishinai-chō ( 087 811 0110)..

Post office The main post office (daily 9am–7pm, Sat till 5pm, Sun till 12.30pm) is at the north end of the Marugame arcade, opposite the Mitsukoshi department store.

Yashima

屋島

Literally meaning “rooftop island” (which thousands of years ago it was), the YASHIMA plateau lies 6km east of Takamatsu’s city centre. It was at Yashima that, in 1185, the Taira and Minamoto clans famously battled to determine who ruled Japan. A small detachment of Minamoto forces surprised the Taira by attacking from the land side of the peninsula – the Taira had expected the attack to come from the sea. Within a month, the Taira were defeated at the Battle of Dannoura and forced to flee to the mountainous hinterland of Shikoku.

Buses run to the top of the 293m-high volcanic lava plateau, or you can spend an hour hiking up a steep, winding path starting to the west of the decommissioned cable-car. Once at the top, you might be a little disappointed, as on the southern ridge of the plateau is a car park. However, the expansive views out over the Inland Sea and the stone workshops of Mure make the trek worthwhile.

Yashima-ji

屋島寺 • Temple Daily, dawn to dusk • Free • Treasure House Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 087 841 9418

Supposedly founded in 754 by the Chinese monk Ganjin, Yashima-ji temple is number 84 on the Shikoku pilgrimage. Look out for the racy granite carvings of tanuki, a type of Japanese racoon dog, next to the temple’s main hall, and elephants carved into the eaves of the smaller halls near the front gate. Yashima-ji’s Treasure House is worth popping into for its collection of screens, pottery and mixed bag of relics from the battle between the Taira and Minamoto. There’s also a traditional garden near the front gate, with the distinctly unbloody “Pond of Blood”, believed to be the spot where the Minamoto soldiers cleansed their swords after the Battle of Yashima.

Shikoku Mura

四国村 • 91 Yashima Naka-machi • Daily: April–Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–March 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥1000 including Shikoku Mura Gallery • 087 843 3111, www.shikokumura.or.jp • A 5min walk north of Kotoden Yashima Station

At the base of the Yashima plateau is the outdoor museum of Shikoku Mura. More than thirty traditional buildings from across the island and Inland Sea were relocated here in an imaginatively landscaped park. The route around the grounds, which takes about an hour, starts with a small replica of the Iya Valley’s Kazura-bashi, a bridge made of vines and bamboo that crosses a pond to an impressive thatched-roof kabuki theatre from Shōdoshima. Plays are occasionally performed here – check with the tourist information office in Takamatsu. Look out also for the circular Sato Shime Goya (Sugarcane Press Hut) with a conical roof. Each of the houses has an excellent English explanation of its history.

Shikoku Mura Gallery

四国村ギャラリー • 91 Yashima Nakamachi • Daily: April–Oct 8.30am–5pm; Nov–March 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥1000 including Shikoku Mura • 087 843 3111, www.shikokumura.or.jp

Near the top of Shikoku Mura is the Andō Tadao-designed Shikoku Mura Gallery. Inside the polished concrete building is a single long gallery featuring original paintings by the likes of Marc Chagall and Pablo Picasso, and sculptures by Auguste Rodin, as well as regularly changing themed exhibitions of contemporary art.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YASHIMA

By train From Takamatsu JR, trains run at least every hour to Yashima Station (15min), from where it’s a 15min walk north to the base of the plateau. More convenient is the Kotoden line from Takamatsu Chikkō Station (every 20min; 20min; ¥330; change at Kotoden Kawara-machi Station), as Kotoden Yashima Station is only a 5min walk from Shikoku Mura.

By bus Between 9am and 5pm, a shuttle bus runs every hour from outside both the JR and Kotoden stations to the top of the plateau (10min; ¥100).

EATING

Ikkaku 一鶴 220-1 Yashima Naka-machi 087 844 3711. A short walk east of Kotoden Yashima Station, this cavernous beer hall-style restaurant specializes in honetsukidori, local chicken cuisine (from ¥475). Mon–Fri 11am–2pm & 5–10pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm.

Waraya わら家 91 Yashima Naka-machi 087 843 3115. This branch of a famous udon chain is beside the entrance to Shikoku Mura, in a building with a thatched roof and water wheel. You can sit and slurp a variety of delicious udon dishes (from ¥470); they also serve plates of assorted tempura (from ¥620). Admission to Shikoku Mura gives you a ¥100 discount coupon here. Daily 10am–7pm, Sat & Sun from 9am.

Mure

A few kilometres east of Yashima, the streets of Mure resound to the clack of hammers on granite and are lined with fantastic stone sculptures and designs – everything from traditional lanterns to pot-bellied Buddhas and long-necked giraffes. It was in this long-established stonemasons’ town that the celebrated American-Japanese sculptor Isamu Noguchi created a traditional-style home and sculpture studio during the latter part of his life.

ISAMU NOGUCHI

Born in Los Angeles in 1904 to an Irish-American mother and a Japanese father, renowned artist and architect Isamu Noguchi spent part of his childhood in Japan before returning to the States, aged 13. In his late 20s, he settled in New York, where his main studio (also now a museum) can be found. It was here that he began to establish his reputation through his iconic designs for paper lanterns and furniture, as well as high-profile commissions for sculptures and landscape works around the world. Noguchi travelled widely prior to World War II, studying art in Paris, Kyoto and Beijing. He returned to Japan after the war, creating numerous site-specific pieces such as the two bridges in the Hiroshima Peace Park (1952) and the lobby of the Sōgestu Kaikan in Tokyo (1977). Noguchi had many love affairs with famous twentieth-century women such as French writer Anaïs Nin and Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, and he was married to Chinese-born Japanese actress Ōtaka Yoshiko for five years. In 1988, the year of his death, he completed his design for Moerenuma Park in Sapporo. Apart from the work at his studio in Mure, near Takamatsu, another of Noguchi’s sculptures, Time and Space, stands at Takamatsu Airport.

Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum Japan

イサムノグチ庭園美術館, Isamu Noguchi Teien Bijutsukan • 3519 Mure-chō • Tues, Thurs & Sat 10am, 1pm & 3pm • ¥2200; book two weeks in advance by email • 087 870 1500, isamunoguchi.or.jp • Take the Kotoden train from either Takamatsu or Yashima Station, alight at Yakuri Station (八栗駅), and then walk 20min northeast

Although you must make an appointment and the entrance fee is more expensive than most museums, a visit to the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum Japan is highly recommended. The lovely traditional house Noguchi lived in, filled with his signature paper lanterns, the inspiring stone sculpture gardens and his large studio (where you can still see all his tools) have been left exactly as they were when he died. You can see more than 150 of Noguchi’s sculptures, some only partly finished, including the signature pieces Energy Void, a 3.6m-tall work that looks more like a giant rubber tube than solid black granite, and the two-coloured stone ring Sun at Midnight. Exactly an hour is granted to wander the studio and grounds, soaking up the singular atmosphere. No photography is allowed, but there are some excellent books in English for sale at the reception area.

Kotohira

琴平

Approximately 30km southwest of Takamatsu, KOTOHIRA is home to the ancient shrine Kotohira-gū, popularly called Kompira-san. Along with the Grand Shrines of Ise and Izumo Taisha, Kotohira is one of the major Shintō pilgrimage sites, attracting some four million visitors a year. Despite the crowds, it is still one of Shikoku’s highlights. The town itself is pleasantly located, straddling the Kanakura-gawa at the foot of the mountain Zozu-san, so-called because it is said to resemble an elephant’s head (zozu). Kotohira can easily be visited on a day-trip from Takamatsu, one hour away by train, or en route to Kōchi or the mountainous interior. However, it has a number of enjoyable attractions as well as a traditional atmosphere, making it a worthwhile overnight stay.

Kotohira-gū

金刀比羅宮 • 892-1 Kotohira-chō • Daily: April–Sept 6am–6pm; Oct–March 6am–5pm • Free • 087 775 2121, www.konpira.or.jp

Kotohira’s star attraction, Kotohira-gū (also known as Kompira-san) is a venerable shrine, dating back to at least the tenth century. The mainly wooden hillside complex can only be accessed via a long staircase ascent – it’s a total of 1368 steps to reach the Oku-sha inner shrine at the top. You’ll see many people huffing and puffing on the slopes, and some even hire traditional kago (palanquins) to carry them to the top. Depending on weather and crowd conditions, it will take about an hour to make your climb at a leisurely pace.

Kompira-san is one of only two places in Japan where you can see the ancient sport of kemari performed. Deemed an Intangible Cultural Property, this ninth-century forerunner of football is played by the shrine’s monks on May 5, July 7 and in late December.

The museums

Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥800 each

The Kompira-san shrine grounds begin at the Ō-mon (大門), a stone gateway just beyond which you’ll pass the Gonin Byakushō (五人百姓) – five red-painted stalls shaded by large white umbrellas. The souvenir sellers here stand in for the five farmers who were once allowed to hawk their wares in the shrine precincts. Further along to the right of the main walkway, lined with stone lanterns, are three small museums housing different collections of the shrine’s artistic treasures: the Hōmotsukan (宝物館), the Gakugei Sankō-kan (学芸参考館) and the Takahashi Yuichi-kan (高橋由一館). Only the latter, displaying the striking paintings of the nineteenth-century artist Takahashi Yuichi, is really worth the entrance fee.

Omote Shoin

表書院 • Daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥800

Before climbing to the shrine’s next stage, look left of the steps to see a giant gold ship’s propeller, a gift from a local shipbuilder. To the right is the entrance to the serene reception hall Omote Shoin, built in 1659. Delicate screen paintings and decorated door panels by the celebrated artist Maruyama Okyo (1733–95) are classified as Important Cultural Assets; they’re so precious you have to peer through glass into the dim interiors to see them.

Asahi-no-Yashiro and the Hon-gū

朝日の社 • 本宮

Returning to the main ascent, the next major building you reach after the Omote Shoin is the grand Asahi-no-Yashiro, the Rising Sun Shrine. Dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, it is decorated with intricate woodcarvings of flora and fauna, and topped with a green copper roof. Two flights of steep steps lead from here to the thatch-roofed Hon-gū, the main shrine, built in 1879 and the centre of Kompira-san’s daily activities. Priests and their acolytes in traditional robes rustle by along a raised wooden corridor linking the shrine buildings.

KOMPIRA’S BUDDHIST CONNECTION

Kompira-san, the unofficial but more commonly used name for Kotohira-gū, comes from the nickname for Omono-nushi-no-Mikoto, the spiritual guardian of seafarers. Kompira was originally Kumbhira, the Hindu crocodile god of the River Ganges, and was imported as a deity from India well before the ninth century, when Kōbō Daishi chose the shrine as the spot for one of his Buddhist temples. For a thousand years Kompira-san served as both a Buddhist and Shintō holy place and was so popular that those who could not afford to make the pilgrimage themselves either dispatched their pet dogs, with pouches of coins as a gift to the gods, or tossed barrels of rice and money into the sea, in the hope that they would be picked up by sailors who would take the offering to Kompira-san on their behalf.

When the Meiji Restoration began, Shintō took precedence, and the Buddhas were removed from the shrine, along with Kompira, who was seen as too closely associated with the rival religion. While there are no representations of Kompira at the shrine today, an open-air gallery decorated with pictures and models of ships (see opposite) serves as a reminder of the shrine’s original purpose, and the Chinese architectural style of some of the buildings hints at the former Buddhist connection.

Oku-sha

奥社

Many visitors stop at Hon-gū, but the hardy, and truly faithful, trudge on up the last 583 steps to the Oku-sha, following a path to the left of the main shrine. When you reach this inner shrine, located almost at the top of Zozu-san, look up at the rocks on the left to see two rather cartoonish stone carvings of the demon Tengu.

Ema-dō

絵馬堂

From the main shrine area, head to the wooden platforms for magnificent views of the surrounding countryside – on a clear day, you can see as far as the Inland Sea. To the left of the main shrine is the open-air Ema-dō gallery, which displays votive plaques, paintings and models of ships. These are from sailors who hope to be granted good favour on the seas. The offerings extend to one from Japan’s first cosmonaut, a TV journalist who was a paying passenger on a Russian Soyuz launch in 1990.

Kinryō Sake Museum

金陵の郷, Kinryō no Sato • 623 Kotohira-chō • Daily 9am–3.30pm, Sat & Sun till 5.30pm • Free • 087 773 4133, nishino-kinryo.co.jp/en

The Kinryō Sake Museum, at the start of the main approach to Kompira-san, is also well worth a visit. There has been a sake brewery on this spot since 1616, and the buildings arranged around a large courtyard have changed little over the centuries. Inside, the well-presented exhibition runs step by step through the sake-making process, using life-size displays and recordings of traditional brewers’ songs. At the end of the displays there’s an informative video in English that you can enjoy while sampling Kinryō’s high-quality sake.

Kanamaru-za

金丸座 • 817-10 Kotohira-chō • Daily 9am–5pm; plays April only • ¥500 • 087 773 3846, konpirakabuki.jp

On the hill to the left of the lower shrine steps of Kompira-san is Kanamaru-za. This performance hall, built in 1835, is said to be the oldest-surviving kabuki theatre in Japan and was fully restored when it was moved to this location from the centre of Kotohira in 1975. Plays are only performed here one month of the year, but the theatre itself merits a visit, especially for its impressive wooden-beamed and lantern-lit auditorium, with intriguing trapdoors and tunnels, and access to the actors’ dressing rooms.

Nakano Udon School

中野うどん学校, Nakano Udon Gakkō • 720 Kotohira-chō • Daily 9am–3pm; classes 1hr–1hr 20min • ¥1760; reservations are required in advance • 087 775 0001, nakanoya.net

Kagawa Prefecture is full of udon noodle restaurants, but there aren’t so many places where you can actually learn how to make them. On the second floor of a hundred-year-old udon noodle shop, on the left side of the shrine approach, is the Nakano Udon School, which will teach you these special skills. The class is a fun experience, and though the teachers don’t speak much English, they are welcoming and the demonstrations are easy to follow. You can eat your noodles on site, or take them home.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KOTOHIRA

By train JR Kotohira Station is a 10min walk northeast of the town centre. Left of the exit are coin lockers (24hr; ¥300–700). If you’ve travelled by Kotoden train from Takamatsu, you’ll arrive at the smaller Kotoden Kotohira Station, closer to the town centre on the banks of the Kanakura-gawa.

Tourist information The tourist information office (daily 10am–6pm; 087 775 3500) is in the shopping arcade opposite Nakano Udon School.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Places to stay in Kotohira are always in high demand, and prices can rise substantially at weekends and during public holidays. The town is famed for its top-notch ryokan; unless mentioned, rates include breakfast and dinner, usually of high quality.

Kōbaitei 紅梅亭 556-1 Kotohira-chō 087 775 1111, koubaitei.jp/en. Charming ryokan with lovely public areas including a tea lounge, traditional garden, small swimming pool and public onsen bath. There’s a choice of tatami and Western-style rooms. ¥46,500

Kotobuki Ryokan ことぶき旅館 245-5 Kotohira-chō 087 773 3872, kotobukiryokan@hotmail.co.jp. The best deal in Kotohira, this small and attractive ryokan is run by a friendly couple and has a quaint traditional interior. Rooms and bathing facilities are spotless, and it’s conveniently located by the river and shopping arcade. ¥14,835

Kotohira Riverside Hotel 琴平リバーサイドホテル 246-1 Kotohira-chō 087 775 1880, www.hananoyu.co.jp/river. This small, Western-style hotel, located on the west bank of the Kanakura-gawa, is a good mid-range option, with modern rooms that are clean and fairly spacious. Breakfast only. ¥12,100

Mi Casa Su Casa Guesthouse ゲストハウス ミカサスカサ 1230-1 Konzoji-chō 087 763 1353, micasasucasa.jp. This small, budget guesthouse is two stops east from JR Kotohira Station and right next to Konzoji Station. Rooms are simple but very clean, and there’s also a shared kitchen area. The friendly English-speaking owner is on hand to give travel advice. Room only. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥7000

Sakura-no-Shō 桜の抄 977-1 Kotohira-chō 087 775 3218, sakuranosho.jp. At the foot of the steps leading up to Kompira-san, this large modern ryokan has comfortable Japanese- and Western-style rooms as well as some nice public baths. If you fancy a splurge, it’s also worth visiting for the beautifully presented mix of traditional and contemporary Japanese dishes at its main restaurant, Ikiri (いきり), a large, sleek affair with an open kitchen at its centre and romantic views out over the illuminated Ō-mon at night. ¥35,200

EATING MAP

Henkotsu-ya へんこつ屋 240-2 Shin-machi Kotohira-chō 0877 75 2343. This traditional shop is worth stopping at for a refreshing cup of matcha and some manju (baked rice flour cakes with sweet bean filling; set ¥660) after climbing Kompira-san. The unusual tearoom, decorated with calligraphy, is at the end of a narrow hallway stacked with samurai armour and other antiques. Daily 9am–5.30pm.

Kamitsubaki 神椿 892-1 Kotohira-chō 087 773 0202, kamitsubaki.com. Located in the Kompira-san grounds, this elegant restaurant and café has a tranquil atmosphere and pleasant views. The restaurant serves pricey Western-style courses – expect to pay ¥2800 for lunch and from ¥6000 for dinner. The café, with a beautifully tiled feature wall, serves food such as sandwiches (¥950), as well as tea and coffee. Restaurant daily 11.30am–2pm & 6–9pm; café daily 9am–4.30pm.

Kompira Udon 金比羅うどん 810-3 Kotohira-chō 087 773 5785, konpira.co.jp. Large, bustling restaurant close to the Kompira-san steps, serving all types of delicious sanuki udon. A bowl topped with tempura is ¥700, while sets with noodles, tempura, rice and a tofu side dish are good value at ¥880. Daily 8am–5pm.

New Green ニューグリーン 722-1 Kotohira-chō 087 773 3451, new-green.sakura.ne.jp. If you’re looking for somewhere to eat after 5pm, this friendly café at the shrine end of the shopping arcade is a cheap and cheerful choice. It serves Japanese and Western food including pasta (¥720) and curry (¥750). English menu available. 8.30am–8.30pm, closed Thurs.

Naoshima and the Art Islands of the Seto Inland Sea

The islands of the Seto Inland Sea, between Shikoku and the main island of Honshū, are some of the most scenic and friendly places in Japan. For centuries, they were at the crossroads of maritime transportation, including piracy, which enabled them to develop their own unique culture and ecological lifestyle. In Japan’s rapid economic growth period, despite the islands collectively becoming Japan’s first national park, natural resources were exploited and illegal industrial waste dumping was rampant, destroying forests and polluting the waters. After the collapse of the “bubble” economy in the late 1980s, the islands suffered from depopulation and neglect.

Since then, the cultural foundation of publishing company Benesse has been a major force for revitalizing these island communities through ambitious art and architectural projects and sustainable tourism. The main focus was originally Naoshima, but there are currently eleven other Inland Sea islands being developed as art sites and attracting thousands of visitors for the Setouchi Triennale, an international art festival featuring exciting contemporary artworks.

The islands described here can be visited in a loop from either Naoshima or Shōdoshima on day-trips, as both are easily accessed from Takamatsu or Okayama. Note that nearly all the museums and art sites on the islands are closed on Mondays, or Tuesdays if a public holiday falls on the Monday.

Naoshima

直島

The dynamic hub for Benesse’s ongoing “community revitalization through art” project, idyllic NAOSHIMA, 13km north of Takamatsu, is now home to six stunning Andō Tadao-designed galleries as well as several large-scale installations and outdoor sculptures from major international and Japanese talent. In Miyanoura (宮浦), the island’s ferry port and main town, there is an amazing public bathhouse, while around southern Gotanji are sheltered beaches with glorious Inland Sea views – all of which combined make Naoshima a blissful escape.

Benesse House Museum

ベネッセハウスミュジアム • Gotanji • Daily 8am–8pm • ¥1050 • 087 892 3233, benesse-artsite.jp/en

Overlooking the Inland Sea, the contemporary art gallery Benesse House Museum, 2km southeast of Miyanoura, is home to some stunning art including works by Bruce Nauman, Jasper Johns, Andy Warhol, David Hockney and Frank Stella. Scattered around the museum are seventeen outdoor sculptural works ranging from Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkin to Cai Guo-Qiang’s witty and practical Cultural Melting Bath, an open-air jacuzzi surrounded by jagged limestone rocks. Guests of Benesse House can use the jacuzzi (closed at time of writing but usually Wed, Fri & Sun 4–5pm, closed Dec–Feb; ¥1030).

SETOUCHI TRIENNALE INTERNATIONAL ART FESTIVAL

The attractive islands of the Inland Sea serve as the exhibition spaces for the Setouchi Triennale (瀬戸内国 際芸術祭, Setouchi Kokusai Geijutsusa; setouchi-artfest.jp/en), a contemporary art festival held every three years. Japanese and international artists are invited to exhibit their works on the eleven participating islands, and many collaborate with the local community to produce fantastic sculptures, installations and audiovisual works. Local people are enthusiastic about the festival, and there are pop-up restaurants and cafés near the art sites. First held in 2010, the 2013 festival exhibited more than 150 pieces. Visiting the islands to see the festival sites is relatively easy thanks to the well-organized ferry services, and detailed information is available in English at many festival locations. The next Triennale will be expected in 2022.

Chichū Art Museum

地中美術館, Chichū Bijutsukan • 3449-1 Naoshima • March–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Oct–Feb 10am–4pm • ¥2100 • 087 892 3755, benesse-artsite.jp/en

The serene hilltop Chichū Art Museum is a naturally lit gallery, housing five of Claude Monet’s Water Lilies series of paintings. The artworks are the climax of a wonderful winding tour through towering corridors of polished concrete spaces dedicated to a dazzling installation by Walter de Maria and three signature “playing with light” pieces by James Turrell. The museum’s lovely café offers a spectacular panorama of the Inland Sea. On the approach to the museum, the picturesque (and free) Chichū Garden has been planted with flowers and plants similar to those cultivated by Monet in his famous garden in Giverny.

Lee Ufan Museum

李禹煥美術館, Li Ūfan Bijutsukan • 1390 Azakuraura • March–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm; Oct–Feb 10am–4.30pm • ¥1050 • 087 892 3754, benesse-artsite.jp/en

Situated between the Benesse House Museum and the Chichū Art Museum is the Lee Ufan Museum. This minimalist, three-room gallery and courtyard garden, also designed by Andō Tadao, showcases the work of renowned Korean artist Lee Ufan, a major force in the contemporary Japanese art movement of the 1970s. At the entrance to the gallery is a pole sculpture by Lee, and as you go through the angular corridors of the museum you’ll pass several of his works, culminating in the hushed atmosphere of the final room where you must take your shoes off before entering.

Art House Project

家プロジェクト, Ie Purojekuto • Honmura • Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm (Minamidera till 4.15pm; Kinza Thurs–Sun 10.30am–1pm & 2.30–4.30pm, Oct–Feb till 4pm) • Multi-entry ticket ¥1050 (six sites, not including Kinza) or ¥420 per site (Kinza ¥520; advance booking essential); tickets and information are available from Honmura Lounge and Archive (Tues–Sun 10am–4.30pm), around the corner from the Nokyo-mae bus stop • 087 892 3233, benesse-artsite.jp/en

The charming fishing village of Honmura (本村), located midway down Naoshima’s east coast, is the base for the Art House Project, in which five old wooden houses, a temple and a shrine have been transformed into artworks.

Kadoya (角屋), an art house close to two hundred years old, is the forum for a trio of works by Miyajima Tatsuo, including the beguiling light-and-water installation Sea of Time ’98. On the small hill to the east stands the Edo-era shrine Go-ō-jinja (護王神社), which was renovated to include a stone chamber and a glass staircase. Minamidera (南寺) is a collaboration between Andō Tadao and American artist James Turrell: Andō designed the stark building that stands on the site of a long-since-demolished temple, and incorporates the charred wooden walls that are typical of the village. As you enter, you’ll be plunged into darkness (staff are on hand to assist) and Turrell’s artwork will be revealed after some fumbling around.

A former dental clinic now houses the scrapbook-style Haisha (はいしゃ) by Shinrō Ōtake, which includes a partial life-sized copy of the Statue of Liberty. Beautiful waterfall paintings by Hiroshi Senju decorate Ishibashi (石橋), while Gokaisho (碁会所) displays amazingly realistic wooden sculptures of camellias by Yoshihiro Suda in tatami rooms. You must book in advance to visit Kinza (きんざ), where Rei Naito’s collections of small wood, glass and stone objects slowly reveal themselves out of the darkness.

Andō Museum

安藤ミュージアム • 736-2 Naoshima • Tues–Sun 10am–4pm • ¥520 • 087 892 3754, benesse-artsite.jp/en

Opened in 2013 in Honmura, the latest addition to Naoshima’s art sites is the Andō Museum, a tribute to renowned Japanese architect Andō Tadao, who was key in revitalizing the island. The museum was designed by Andō himself and displays models of projects and other works that have connected the artist to the island. However, it is the construction and design of the building, using his signature materials of concrete, glass, steel and wood, which really showcases Andō’s talent. From the outside, the museum looks deceptively like a typical Honmura house, but the completely new concrete interior uses natural light and the hundred-year-old house’s original wooden beams to great effect. It’s a wonderful example of creating something modern in a traditional space.

Naoshima Bath “I♥湯”

直島銭湯「I湯」, Naoshima Sentō “I yu” • 2252-2 Naoshima • Tues–Sun 1–9pm • ¥660; ofuro sets ¥1380 • 087 892 2626, benesse-artsite.jp/en

Shinrō Ōtake collaborated with design studio Graf on the incredible sentō Naoshima Bath “I♥湯”, 150m or so from Miyanoura’s sleek SANAA-designed Naoshima ferry terminal. As with Haisha (see above), there’s a wealth of detail both inside and out of this public bath (even “I♥湯” is a pun on the Japanese word yu, meaning hot water). You can expect to see recycled ceramic tile mosaics, pop-art paintings and photo collages, videos, erotica, and a small elephant statue perched on the divide between the male and female baths. The reception area sells special “I♥湯” ofuro sets, which include towels, soap and shampoo.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NAOSHIMA

By ferry Regular boats sail to Miyanoura from Takamatsu (high-speed passenger boats 30min, ¥1220; ferries 50min, ¥520) and from Uno on Honshū (15–20min; ¥300), which is 1hr by train from Okayama. Timetables are regularly updated on the Benesse website ( benesse-artsite.jp/en/access). There are less-frequent boats to Honmura as well, but it’s much easier and more convenient to depart from Miyanoura.

Tourist information The information desk in the ferry terminal (daily 8.30am–6pm; 087 892 2299) has an excellent English map and guide to the island.

GETTING AROUND

By bus There’s a regular minibus (¥100) that runs between Miyanoura and Tsutsuji-so via Honmura (the timetable is available on the Benesse website; benesse-artsite.jp/en/access); in Tsutsuji-so, you can transfer onto a free shuttle bus (every 15–30min) for the Benesse House, Lee Ufan and Chichū Art museums.

By bike Cycle rental is available from Café Ougiya in the ferry terminal (¥330/day, e-bikes ¥1100/day) and from the TVC bike shop opposite the terminal (¥500/day, e-bikes ¥1500/day). Some of the guesthouses also rent out bicycles.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

During Japanese holidays and the Setouchi Triennale, accommodation is almost impossible to find on Naoshima. Even outside of these periods, the island is a very popular destination. Book well in advance if you can – note that some places will charge higher rates on arrival if you don’t.

Benesse House ベネッセハウス Gotanji 087 892 3223, benesse-artsite.jp/en/stay/benessehouse. This is a fine hotel offering comfortable, spacious rooms in four separate blocks: one in the museum, one in the adjoining Oval and two within the hotel’s newer complex, Park and Beach. The latter is closer to the water and has a Scandinavian feel, as well as a library and a guest lounge. Although this hotel is on the pricey side, you’ll get the opportunity to see artworks created by world-famous artists that aren’t on display to the general public. ¥32,670

Cin.na.mon シナモン Miyanoura 087 840 8133, www.cin-na-mon.jp. This old wooden house has three basic tatami bedrooms that are starting to show their age a bit (all share a bathroom), though it’s conveniently located for the trendy downstairs café-bar (daily 11am–3pm & 5–10pm), that’s decorated with a collection of colourful plastic models of characters from Star Wars, Dragon Ball and the like (curry dishes from ¥700). Rates include breakfast, and bicycle rental is also available. ¥8000

Dormitory in Kowloon ドミトリーin九龍 Miyanoura 090 7974 2424, domi-kowloon.com. This friendly, simple hostel is one of the cheapest places to stay on Naoshima and is a solid choice. It’s just steps from the ferry terminal, with clean and comfortable rooms, self-catering facilities and a communal lounge area. Dorms ¥3240

Kuraya くらや Honmura 087 892 2253, kuraya-naoshima.net. Set in a traditional but somewhat unkempt Naoshima house with a central courtyard, this unconventional B&B is run by an English-speaking artist who keeps a large number of cats on the premises. Kuraya is also a gallery, and it’s possible to stay in the exhibition space. Breakfast (including a vegetarian option) is available for an additional ¥500. ¥9000

Little Plum リトルプラム Miyanoura 087 892 3751, littleplum.net. Set behind the Naoshima Bath, this cute hostel and café-bar (Tues–Sat 6–9pm) is made out of shipping containers, offering four comfortable bunk beds in each of the crates and a shared bathroom between them all. Bicycle rental is also available. Dorms ¥3000

Mrs. Maroulla’s House マローラおばさんの家 Miyanoura 090 7979 3025, yado-sevenbeach.com. This gaudy self-catering cottage is a riot of colour both inside and out – no other house on Naoshima is painted hot pink. It’s comfortably furnished, the kitchen area and shower room have all the mod cons, and although it’s set up for two people (in a sofa bed), the place can sleep up to five guests. ¥15,500

Alamy

CHIIORI

Tsutsujisō つつじ荘 Gotanji 087 892 2838, tsutsujiso.com. You can choose between cottages with tatami floors, caravans or “pao” (spacious Mongolian circular tents with four beds, table and chairs) at this great seaside-facing camp. There’s a small café (daily 11am–2.30pm; open Sat, Sun & public holidays in winter) selling drinks and snacks, and the BBQ cooking area and shower rooms have been nicely upgraded. Yurts ¥7700, trailers ¥8800, cottages ¥9680

EATING MAP

Garden Café ガーデンカフェ Honmura 087 892 3301. You can look out over Honmura port at this popular restaurant, which is based in a renovated folk house and offers bike rental. The seafood curry (¥820) is delicious and served with a side salad, while the fresh orange juice and apple cake are also particularly good. Tues–Sun 11.30am–5pm.

Henkotsu-en へんこつ苑 Miyanoura 087 840 8266. Just a minute from the port on foot, this stylish seafood and BBQ restaurant offers excellent kaiseki-style bentō lunch sets for ¥1550. There is also a counter bar where you can enjoy a glass of wine or a cocktail while watching the ocean. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–10pm.

Mai Mai マイマイ Honmura 090 8286 7039. Operating out of a garage with courtyard seating, this burger café sells the popular Naoshima Burger (¥640), with deep-fried yellowtail fish and homemade tartare sauce. Wash it down with a fresh juice or draught beer. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm.

Umi no Hoshi 海の星 Benesse Park, Gotanji 087 892 3223, benesse-artsite.jp/en. Offering wonderful Inland Sea views, the Umi no Hoshi restaurant serves superb French cuisine featuring fresh local produce. The breakfast buffet is ¥2662, while the elegant dinner courses are ¥9680 or ¥13,310 (individual mains from ¥6050). Daily 7.30–9.30am & 6–9pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

SARU Café & Bar カフェ＆バーSARU Miyanoura 080 3697 9940. From the outside, SARU looks a bit like a shed, but inside it’s been renovated into an arty drinking spot. It’s probably the only real watering hole on the entire island, and you shouldn’t miss sampling one of the series of original Naoshima craft beers, named “The Tale of Naoshima”. It’s quite a cosy place, so it can get lively at times. Daily (except Thurs) 6pm–midnight.

Inujima

犬島

The tiny island of INUJIMA is home to the dramatic Inujima Seirensho Art Museum and the ongoing Inujima Art House Project. These two sites are another excellent example of how the history, traditional architecture and natural environment of the Inland Sea have been skilfully combined with contemporary art. Currently, the island has a population of around fifty, and it’s likely you’ll meet at least half the residents as you wander around the sites. In total, it’s probably worth setting aside two or three hours to visit the island.

Inujima Seirensho Art Museum

犬島精錬所美術館, Inujima Seirensho Bijutsukan • 327-4 Inujima • Museum 9am–4.30pm: March–Nov Mon & Wed–Sun; Dec–Feb Mon & Fri–Sun • ¥2100 (combined ticket with Inujima Art House Project and Inujima Life Garden) • 086 947 1112, benesse-artsite.jp/en

The industrial-looking Inujima Seirensho Art Museum has been built into the ruins of a copper refinery constructed in 1909. Using local granite and waste products from the smelting process, architect Sambuichi Hiroshi has transformed the previously abandoned structures and smokestacks into a fantastic eco-building and art space, with solar power and geothermal cooling creating a naturally air-conditioned environment. The museum displays the work of Yanagi Yukinori, who has used parts of the dismantled home of controversial writer Mishima Yukio to explore the contradictions of Japanese modernization.

Inujima Art House Project

犬島家プロジェクト, Inujima Ie Purojekuto • Inujima • 9am–4.30pm: March–Nov Mon & Wed–Sun; Dec–Feb Mon & Fri–Sun • ¥2100 (combined ticket with Seirensho Art Museum and Inujima Life Garden) • 086 947 1112, benesse-artsite.jp/en

The vibrant Inujima Art House Project opened in 2010. Given that Inujima is quite small, the project has taken over the entire village and local residents live among the five Art House galleries and other installation spaces. Of note is Kojin Haruka’s Contact Lens – which shows distortions of the surrounding environment through different lenses – and Asai Yusuke's Listen to the Voices of Yesterday Like the Voices of Ancient Times, an installation built on the site of a former stonecutter’s house with stone pillars and painted tribal motifs.

Inujima Life Garden

シーサイド犬島ギャラリー, Shīsaido Inujima Gyararī • Inujima • 9am–4.30pm: March–Nov Mon & Wed–Sun; Dec–Feb Mon & Fri–Sun • ¥2100 (combined ticket with Seirensho Art Museum and Inujima Art House Project) • 086 947 1112, benesse-artsite.jp/en

The most recent of the three Benesse-run sites on the island, the Inujima Life Garden is an eco-conscious botanical garden, focused around an abandoned greenhouse. A collaboration between the architect Kazuyo Sejima and landscape designers Akaruiheya, it’s a work in progress, but the main features are a flower garden, herb garden, vegetable garden and orchard.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND INUJIMA

By ferry Ferries sail to Inujima port from Miyanoura (3 daily; ¥1880; 55min) and Teshima (3 daily; ¥1250; 25min). There’s also a ferry to Inujima from Hoden port in Okayama (7–8 daily; ¥300; 10min). Timetables are regularly updated on the Benesse website ( benesse-artsite.jp/en/access).

On foot There’s no public transport once you’re on the island, so you’ll need to walk between the sights.

INFORMATION

Tourist information The Inujima Ticket Center (9am–5pm: March–Nov Mon & Wed–Sun; Dec–Feb Mon & Fri–Sun; 086 947 1112, benesse-artsite.jp/en) is on your left as you exit the port. You can buy museum and ferry tickets here, as well as pick up a map to the sites. There’s also a small café (daily 9am–4.30pm) and coin lockers.

Teshima

豊島

The lush island of TESHIMA is home to prosperous fishing and dairy-farming industries. Amid this verdant environment are numerous enchanting art sites – all of which you can see in a single day-trip – located between the island’s two ports, Ieura and Karato. Out of all of them, make sure you don’t pass up seeing Teshima Art Museum and Teshima Yokoo House.

Teshima Art Museum

豊島美術館, Teshima Bijutsukan • 607 Karato • March–Oct 10am–4.30pm, closed Tues; Nov–Feb Mon & Fri–Sun 10am–3.30pm • ¥1570 • 087 968 3555, benesse-artsite.jp/en

The splendid Teshima Art Museum, a collaboration between architect Nishizawa Ryūe and artist Naito Rei, is a concrete shell open to the elements on the edge of a rice terrace. From the outside, the museum looks something like a UFO, and once inside you’ll feel even more like you’ve entered another world. You must take your shoes off to enter the hushed interior space, where small springs of water spontaneously erupt from the floor and then travel around, fascinating visitors who lie all over to observe them. It’s recommended that you spend at least thirty minutes sitting here, observing the mobile puddles of water and listening to the wind whistling through the roof openings. The museum’s café (same hours as museum) is a smaller version of the museum, with a white-carpeted lounge and glass roof.

Teshima Yokoo House

豊島横尾館, Teshima Yokookan • 2359 Ieura • March–Oct 10am–4.30pm, closed Tues; Nov–Feb Mon & Fri–Sun 10am–3.30pm • ¥510 • 087 968 3555, benesse-artsite.jp/en

Compared to the serenity of the Teshima Art Museum, the Teshima Yokoo House is an abrupt shock of pop-culture collage. Exploring the themes of life and death, the house is a collaboration between architect Nagayama Yuko and artist Yokoo Tadanori, whose works are exhibited throughout. Yokoo’s style is eccentric and provocative: a carp pond flows under the perspex floors of the main house; 900 postcards of waterfalls are displayed on the walls of a 14m-high tower; and the amazing “outhouse” installations are definitely worth a look, whether nature calls or not.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TESHIMA

By ferry Ferries sail to Ieura port from Miyanoura (3 daily; 20min; ¥630), Inujima (3 daily; 25min; ¥1250), Uno (8 daily; 40min; ¥780) and Tonosho (7 daily; 35min; ¥780), as well as to Karato port from Uno (6 daily; 40min; ¥1050) and Tonosho (7 daily; 30min; ¥490). Timetables are regularly updated on the Benesse website ( benesse-artsite.jp/en/access).

Tourist information The desk in the ferry terminal (Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm; 087 968 3135) has an English map and guide to the island.

GETTING AROUND

By bus A shuttle bus (7 daily; ¥200) runs between the ports at Ieura port and Karato, stopping at some art sites and the Teshima Art Museum along the way.

By bike The best way to get around is by bicycle, and you can rent e-bikes from both Ieura and Karato ports (¥1000/4hr). The rental shops will also mind your luggage for a small fee (from ¥300).

Shōdoshima

小豆島

It may not have quite the same idyllic appeal as its smaller Inland Sea neighbours like Naoshima and Teshima, but thanks to its splendid natural scenery and a collection of worthwhile sights, Shōdoshima should still be high on any list of places to visit in Shikoku. The mountainous, forested island styles itself as a Mediterranean retreat, and has a whitewashed windmill and mock-Grecian ruins strategically placed amid its terraced olive groves. But local culture also gets a look-in, since Shōdoshima – which translates as “island of small beans” – promotes its own version of Shikoku’s 88-temple pilgrimage and its connection with the classic Japanese book and film Nijūshi-no-Hitomi (Twenty-Four Eyes). This tear-jerking tale of a teacher and her twelve young charges, set on Shōdoshima between the 1920s and 1950s, was written by local author Tsuboi Sakae. In recent years, Shōdoshima has become part of the Setouchi Triennale International Art Festival, and there are now several interesting art installations on the island.

Though most of the main sights can be covered in a day, it’s a bit of a rush if you don’t have your own transport – in this case, it’s better to spend at least one night on the island.

Meiro no Machi

迷路のまち

The town of Tonoshō was originally built during the Edo period in a complicated maze (meiro) pattern to protect the inhabitants from pirate attack; it was believed that pirates wouldn’t enter if they couldn’t retreat quickly. The labyrinth of narrow streets, some less than 2m wide, is known as Meiro no Machi. Having survived the centuries, the area has an intriguing atmosphere and is worth a wander. There are a considerable number of Taishō and Shōwa-era houses in the streets, some of which have started to be used for the Setouchi Triennale International Art Festival. Check the festival information office for details of the latest exhibitions.

Olive-kōen

オリーブ公園 • Park & museum daily 8.30am–5pm • Free; onsen ¥720 • 087 982 2200, olive-pk.jp

Along the main Highway 436 heading east from Tonoshō and around the south of Shōdoshima lies Olive-kōen, a pleasant but touristy hillside park of olive groves and fake Grecian ruins where, among other things, you can buy green-olive chocolate or take an onsen bath followed by a moisturizing session with olive-oil creams. There’s also an interesting small museum in the park that explains the history of olive growing on the island, plus a couple of themed activities linked to its setting for the Studio Ghibli film Kiki’s Delivery Service.

Nijūshi no Hitomi Eigamura

二十四の瞳映画村 • Tanoura • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥880 (including entry to the old school in Tanoura) • 087 982 2455, 24hitomi.or.jp/en

Just a little further along the southern coast of Shōdoshima than Olive-kōen is Nijūshi no Hitomi Eigamura, a mini-theme park dedicated to the 1954 film Twenty-Four Eyes. This fake village, which was used in the 1980s remake, has some charming old buildings. If you’re not familiar with the film, you can watch it on site. Also in the park you’ll find a museum dedicated to the prolific author Tsuboi Sakae, best known for the novel on which the film was based, and the very stylish Café Shinema Kurabu, which is a good place for lunch and part of a display devoted to classic Japanese films of the 1950s and 1960s. Just before reaching Eigamura, as you come along the road from Sakate, is the rustic fishing village of Tanoura (田の浦), where the original schoolhouse that served as an inspiration for the book is also open to visitors (daily 9am–5pm; ¥240).

Yamaroku

ヤマロク醤油, Yamaroku shōyu • 1607 Yasuda-ko • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 087 982 0666, yama-roku.net

Scattered around the southeastern part of Shōdoshima, between Eigamura and the youth hostel, you’ll find several soy sauce factories, the most worthwhile of which is Yamaroku. Here, each batch of the local sauce is fermented for two years in hundred-year-old, 2m-high wooden barrels, and carefully watched over by a fifth-generation soy master. The staff don’t speak much English, but are happy to show you around and let you climb up and peer into the pungent, bacteria-coated barrels. They also have a small souvenir shop where you can sample their different sauces.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHŌDOSHIMA

By boat and ferry Shōdoshima is best reached with ferries from Takamatsu (roughly hourly; 1hr; ¥700) or with the high-speed boats (roughly every 40min; 35min; ¥1190) that depart daily for several ports on the island; the most convenient landing point is Tonoshō, on the west coast. If you’re coming from Honshū, there are also ferries from Himeji (to Fukuda; roughly every 2hr; 1hr 40min; ¥1550), Hinase (Obe; 5 daily; 1hr; ¥1030), Okayama (Tonoshō; roughly hourly; 1hr 10min; ¥1050) and Uno (Tonoshō; 3 daily; 1hr 30min; ¥1260), as well as high-speed boats from Uno to Tonoshō (3 daily; 1h; ¥1260). If you intend to stay at the youth hostel, take a ferry from Takamatsu to Kusakabe (5 daily; 1hr; ¥700).

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist information desk (daily 9am–5pm; 087 962 0649) inside Tonoshō’s ferry terminal, but if you’re coming from Takamatsu, you can easily pick up information on the island from the tourist information centre there.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Buses for main sights around the island depart from the terminal next to the Tonoshō port building (fares range from ¥150 to ¥300). Note that the frequency of the bus services changes seasonally, and some routes around the island don’t operate in Jan, Feb or June; check with the tourist information desk before setting off.

By bike Rental bicycles are available at both Tonoshō port, with Asahiya (from ¥500; daily 10am–5.30pm; 087 962 0162), and from the youth hostel (¥200/day). For scooters, try Ishii Rent-a-Bike on Olive-dōri ( 087 962 1866).

By car Based at the port, ORIX ( 087 962 4669) is worth checking out if you’d like to rent a car.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Tonoshō offers plenty of business and tourist hotels that charge around ¥8000 per person, including two meals. Shōdoshima doesn’t have many good places to eat, so it’s best to plan on having dinner and breakfast at your hotel.

Business Minshuku Maruse ビジネス民宿マルセ 5165-293 Tonoshōchō-kō 087 962 2385, new-port.biz. This is a small, clean minshuku with Japanese- and Western-style rooms and a coin laundry for guests. A Japanese-style breakfast is an extra ¥600, and dinner can be arranged in advance (from ¥1100). ¥8400

Celeste Shodōshima チェレステ小豆島 1462 Teshima-kō 087 962 5015. This is a smart hotel with spacious, well-appointed Japanese-style rooms with excellent views of the bay and “Angel Road”, a slinky sandbar linking three tiny islands. Rates include meals in the hotel’s Italian restaurant, and there’s also an in-house art gallery and rooftop jacuzzi. ¥38,500

New Port ニューポート 5165-237 Tonoshōchō-kō 087 962 4620, new-port.biz. This is a friendly business hotel run by the same management as Business Minshuku Maruse. You’ll find Japanese- and Western-style rooms with private bathrooms and TVs. Dinner can be arranged in advance. A simple breakfast is included in the price. ¥7780

Shōdoshima International Hotel 小豆島国際ホテル 24-67 Tonoshōchō-kō 087 962 2111, shodoshima-kh.jp. This big resort-style hotel is set in a beautiful location on the south side of Tonoshō, next to “Angel Road”. Rooms are quite luxurious, and if you aren’t lucky enough to get your own outdoor onsen bath, you can always use the hotel’s own spa. ¥33,500

Shōdoshima Olive Youth Hostel 小豆島オーリブユースホステル 1072 Nishimura 087 982 6161, jyh.gr.jp/shoudo. Just a 10min walk west of Kusakabe port, this hostel has clean dorms and private tatami rooms for two. The friendly, English-speaking manager whips up a good teishoku dinner (set meal including a main dish, rice, miso soup and pickles; ¥1100), and a filling breakfast for ¥660. Dorms ¥3630

Tokushima

徳島

Built on the delta of the Yoshino-gawa – Shikoku’s longest river – and bisected by the Shinmachi-gawa, TOKUSHIMA, the capital of Tokushima-ken, is known across Japan for its fantastic summer dance festival, the Awa Odori, which is attended every year by over a million people. If you’re not among them, then don’t worry, as Tokushima does its best to provide a flavour of the Awa Odori experience year-round at the Awa Odori Kaikan, at the foot of Mount Bizan, a parkland area providing sweeping views of the city.

Home to the first temple of the Shikoku pilgrimage, Tokushima has a long history of welcoming visitors, and you’ll find it a noticeably friendly and relaxed place, as well as a good base from which to explore the rest of the prefecture. The city’s sights are all within easy walking distance of the train station.

Bizan

眉山 • Ropeway Daily: April–Oct 9am–9pm; Nov–March 9am–5.30pm • One-way ¥620, return ¥1030 • The entrance to the ropeway station is on the fifth floor of the Awa Odori Kaikan

On a clear day, it’s worth ascending 280m-high Bizan for the panoramic views, and it’s not too difficult a hike if you want to save on the ropeway fee or fancy the exercise; a route starts from the temple to the left of the kaikan (hall) at the end of Shinmachi-bashi-dōri. At the summit, there’s an observatory with telescopes and an outdoor observation deck; a park with a stupa, called Tokushima Pagoda in memory of the Japanese soldiers who served in Myanmar (Burma) during World War II; and Kenzan-jinja, a small and unremarkable shrine dedicated to the kami (gods) of the mountain. Of more interest is Mayuhana-kyo (“eyebrow mirror”), a 6m-high kaleidoscopic monument of light and colour made up of 4100 LED lights, which can be viewed daily from sunset to 10.30pm.

Awa Odori Kaikan

阿波踊り会館 • 2-20 Shinmachi-bashi-dōri, Higashi Yamate • Complex Daily 9am–9pm • Free • Museum Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 Awa Odori Hall Performances daily 11am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm & 8pm • Day dance performance ¥800; evening dance performance ¥1000; combined ticket for day dance performance, museum and ropeway ¥1830; combined ticket for just museum and day dance performance ¥1000 • 088 611 1611, awaodori-kaikan.jp/en

Five minutes’ walk south of the river, at the base of Bizan, is the Awa Odori Kaikan. The complex is dedicated to the city’s famous dance and houses a good souvenir shop on the ground floor, a ropeway on the fifth floor that goes to the top of Bizan (see above), a museum dedicated to the history of the dance on the third floor, and the Awa Odori Hall, where there are five live dance performances daily. The daytime performances are explanatory and highly interactive – don’t be surprised if you end up on stage – while the evening performances showcase Tokushima’s most distinguished dance troupes.

Zuigan-ji

瑞巌寺 • 3-18 Higashi Yamate-chō • Daily 8am–5pm • Free, garden ¥300 • 088 652 5968

Walk south around the base of Bizan and you’ll come to the delightful Buddhist temple Zuigan-ji. Built in the Momoyama style, Zuigan-ji dates from 1614 and has an elegant traditional garden with carp-filled pools, a waterfall, and rock paths across mossy lawns leading up to a picturesque red pagoda. Look out for one of the lamps in the garden – it had the image of the Virgin Mary engraved on it during the Edo period, when Christianity was forbidden in Japan.

Awa Jūrōbē Yashiki

阿波十郎兵衛屋敷 • 184 Miyajima Motoura, Kawauchi-chō, 4km north of Tokushima Station • Daily 9.30am–5pm; July & Aug till 6pm; performances 11am & 2pm • ¥410 • 088 665 2202, joruri.info/jurobe • A 25min bus journey from stop number 7 at the bus terminal

THE DANCING FOOLS

Every year in mid-August, many Japanese return to their family homes for Obon (Festival of the Dead), which is as much a celebration as a remembrance of the deceased. Towns all over the country hold bon dances, but none can compare to Tokushima’s Awa Odori – the “Great Dance of Awa” – a four-day festival that runs every year from August 12 to 15. Over a million spectators come to watch the eighty-thousand participants, dressed in colourful yukata (summer kimono) and half-moon-shaped straw hats, who parade through the city, waving their hands and tapping their feet to an incessant two-beat rhythm, played on taiko drums, flutes and shamisen (traditional stringed instruments). With plenty of street parties and sideshows, this is as close as Japan gets to Rio’s Carnival, and there’s plenty of fun to be had mingling with the dancers, who famously chant, “The dancing fool and the watching fool are equally foolish. So why not dance?”

If you plan to attend the festival, book accommodation well in advance or arrange to stay in one of the nearby towns and travel in for the dances, which start at 6pm and finish at 10.30pm (though street parties continue well into the night). To take part as a dancer, contact the Tokushima International Association or Tokushima Prefecture International Exchange Association, who organize dance groups on one of the festival nights.

Traditional Japanese puppetry, bunraku, is a highly skilled performance art that takes years of training to master, and it’s one of Tokushima’s enduring traditions. At the historic premises of the Jūrōbē family, Awa Jūrōbē Yashiki, you can immerse yourself in the world of ningyō jōruri, as it’s called locally. This former samurai residence, with an enclosed garden and display room of beautifully made antique puppets, was once the home of the tragic figure Jūrōbē, who was immortalized in Keisei Awa no Naruto, the epic eighteenth-century play by Chikamatsu. The theatre has been completely rebuilt in the traditional manner, and you can see part of the play performed here, usually the classic scene where Jūrōbē’s wife, Oyumi, turns away their daughter Otsuru as a stranger. Live performances are held regularly, and a video of the play is also shown inside a large tatami hall. The theatre staff are welcoming, and there’s a helpful English pamphlet.

Tokushima Chūō-kōen

徳島中央公園 • Senshūkaku-teien 千秋閣庭園 Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥50 • Tokushima Castle Museum 徳島城博物館 Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥300 • 088 656 2525 • A 5min walk east of the JR station

The attractive park of Tokushima Chūō-kōen lies on the site of daimyō Hachisuka Iemasa’s fortress. From 1586, Hachisuka’s clan lived in the castle for 280 years, creating the town that is now Tokushima. All that remains of the castle, which was destroyed in 1896, are a few stone walls, part of the moat and the Senshūkaku-teien, a beautiful formal garden. Beside the garden is the small Tokushima Castle Museum, with informative, modern displays explaining the history of the Hachisuka clan and a large model that gives a good idea of what the fortress and its surrounding compound once looked like.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOKUSHIMA

By plane Tokushima’s domestic airport ( 088 699 2831, tokushima-airport.co.jp/english) lies 12km north of the city centre; there are buses from here to the JR train station (30min; ¥450).

Destinations Fukuoka (2 daily; 1hr 10min–1hr 20min); Tokyo (11 daily; 1hr 15min).

By train Trains pull in at JR Tokushima Station, next to the Clement Plaza shopping centre, at the head of Shinmachi-bashi-dōri, the main thoroughfare.

Destinations Awa Ikeda (8 daily; 1hr 15min); Kaifu (3 daily; 2hr 10min); Naruto (15 daily; 40min); Takamatsu (19 daily; 1hr 5min).

By bus Long-distance buses come and go from the bus station in front of the JR train station.

Destinations Awaji-shima (4 daily; 45min); Kansai International Airport (9 daily; 2hr 45min); Matsuyama (7 daily; 3hr 20min); Osaka (every 30min; 2hr 45min); Takamatsu (12 daily; 1hr 35min); Tokyo (daily; 9hr 30min).

By ferry Ferries run by Ocean Tokyu ( otf.co.jp) and Nankai ( nankai-ferry.co.jp) arrive at Tokushima port, 3km east of the centre.

Destinations Kita-Kyūshū/Kokura (daily; 15hr); Tokyo (daily; 17hr 50min); Wakayama (8 daily; 2hr 15min).

By car Eki Rent-a-Car ( 088 622 1014, ekiren.co.jp) and Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 088 655 0919, nrgroup-global.com) both have offices at JR Tokushima Station.

INFORMATION

Tourist information Although there’s a tourist information booth outside Clement Plaza, it’s better to go to Tokushima Prefecture International Exchange Association (TOPIA) on the plaza’s sixth floor (daily 10am–6pm; 088 656 3303, topia.ne.jp/english), as the English-speaking staff are more helpful. There’s also a small library of English books and magazines there, as well as free wi-fi and computer terminals with internet access. The Tokushima International Association (Mon–Fri 10am–5.30pm; 088 622 6066, tia81.com), one block beyond the city hall to the east of the JR station, has similar services. For longer-term visitors, both facilities offer Japanese classes.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Tokushima has a decent range of accommodation, most of it of a high standard and conveniently located around the JR station. Book well in advance if you plan to visit during the Awa Odori in August. If you’re having problems finding somewhere to stay, pop into TOPIA (see above), as the staff can make enquiries for you.

The Agnes アグネスホテル徳島 1-28 Terashima Honchō Nishi 088 626 2222, agneshotel.jp/en. West of the JR station, this hip monochrome hotel has decent-sized, well-equipped rooms and a trendy patisserie on the ground floor. The in-house café is open from breakfast until late evening serving sandwiches, pasta and other Western-style food. There’s also a coin laundry. ¥14,000

APA Hotel Tokushima Ekimaeアパホテル徳島駅前 2-21 Ichibanchō 088 655 5005, apahotel.com/en. You’ll find tiny but clean rooms at this convenient and modern business hotel. Rates are lower for online bookings and eco-plans (room cleaning every second day). Breakfast is extra (¥880), but there are non-smoking rooms. ¥7100

Hotel Clement ホテルクルメント徳島 1-61 Terashima Honchō Nishi 088 656 3111, jrhotelgroup.com. Upmarket hotel next to the station with spacious, tastefully furnished rooms and polite, friendly staff. There’s an eighteenth-floor bar and Japanese restaurant with a fabulous view of Bizan, as well as an in-house spa. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥24,000

The Grand Palace ザ・グランドパレス 1-60-1 Terashima Honchō Nishi 088 626 1111, gphotel.jp/english. Going for the shiny-and-sleek black look in a big way, this boutiquish hotel offers larger than average rooms, with very comfortable beds, as well as an excellent breakfast buffet. The staff don’t speak much English, but they do make an effort to ensure your stay is enjoyable. ¥12,000

Sakura-sō さくら荘 1-25-1 Terashima Honchō Higashi 088 652 9575. Don’t be put off by the drab exterior – this minshuku is the best budget choice in Tokushima and is conveniently located a few blocks east of the station. It has simple but clean and spacious tatami rooms, with shared bathing facilities. The friendly owner speaks a little English and is very welcoming. ¥6600

Sunroute Tokushima サンルート徳島 1-5-1 Moto-machi 088 653 8111, sunroute-tokushima.com. The reception for this slick, modern hotel is on the third floor of the Meiten-gai block, directly opposite Tokushima Station. The comfortable rooms are decorated in monochrome hues and each comes equipped with its own computer. There’s also free access to the rooftop onsen bath, jacuzzi and sauna. ¥12,400

EATING MAP

Domannaka どまん中 1-47 Terashima Honchō Nishi 088 623 3293, wa-domannaka.jp/en. This stylish izakaya serves delicious local fish, chicken and vegetarian cuisine (English menu available). There are grilled dishes such as yakitori (from ¥160) and robata-yaki (from ¥400), as well as sashimi platters (from ¥1650) and nabe hotpots – the hearty chicken and dumpling nabe for two (¥1500) is especially tasty. Mon–Thurs 11.30am–2pm & 5–10pm, Fri & Sat 5–10pm.

HYŌTANJIMA BOAT CRUISE

Central Tokushima city is encircled by two rivers, the Shinmachi-gawa and the Suketo-gawa, in the shape of a hyōtan, or gourd. A relaxing thirty-minute Hyōtanjima Boat Cruise (ひょうたん島クルーズ; July & Aug daily 11am–7.40pm, Sept–June daily 11am–3.40pm; every 40min, or every 15min from 9am to 10pm during the Awa Odori festival; ¥200; 088 621 5232) takes in all fifteen bridges that connect this urban island, called Hyōtanjima, to the rest of the city, and some of which are decorated with sculptures and art related to Awa Odori. The cruises leave from the boathouse in front of the Shinmachi-gawa Riverside Park (新町川公園), at the northern end of the Ryōgoku-bashi (両国橋).

Ikko 一鴻 2F Acty Annex 088 623 2311, i-kko.com. Ikko is the place to go to fully sample all the different ways Tokushima’s famous Awa-Odori brand of chicken can be cooked. Specializing in honetsuki-dori (chicken on the bone) cuisine, you can enjoy superbly grilled chicken breasts (¥550) or chicken sashimi (¥650) with a fresh salad of locally grown vegetables (¥540). Wash it all down with a draught beer or locally brewed sudachi-shu, which is a kind of citrus vodka. Daily 5–midnight.

Men-O 麺王 1F Asahi Bldg, Toshima-chō 088 623 4116, 7-men.com. Arrive here early to sample Tokushima ramen, because the queues are often out the door and along the street. This local ramen style is distinguished by noodles in a salty-sweet pork-belly soup and topped with roast pork and a raw egg. Regular bowls are ¥480 – you can buy a ticket from the vending machine at the entrance. Daily 11am–midnight.

Miraku 味楽 2F Ken Ban Bldg, 1-20 Tomita-chō 088 655 1530, miraku.jp. At this up-market BBQ restaurant, a range of meat dishes are grilled at your table using charcoal, including the local Awa pork that’s known for being sweet and juicy (from ¥450). Nabe dishes are also worth trying, and the pork shabu-shabu (¥2700) comes highly recommended. Draught beer, shōchū and plum wine are all on the varied drinks list. Daily 5–10pm.

Ufotable Café ユーフォーテーブルカフェ 1-13 Higashi Senba-chō 088 655 8805. Produced by animation studio Ufotable, this theme café is a popular hangout among Tokushima’s anime fans, and there are original drawings from the studio’s artists on the walls. The regular menu includes dishes such as Thai curry and pork donburi (¥870), though there are also special menus made up for regular events inspired by anime titles and characters. Tues–Fri 11.30am–9pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–11pm.

Uoroman 魚貝のビストロUOROMAN 2-15 Ichiban-chō 088 623 3917, tokushimaekimae-uoroman.owst.jp. Just a stone’s throw from the station, this spacious, two-storey Italian seafood restaurant brings in the crowds. There’s a good mix of pizzas, pastas (try the snow crab pasta; ¥890) and seafood dishes, including the signature dish, a plate of raw uni (sea urchin) wrapped in succulent strips of hon-maguro (¥390 each). Daily 5pm–1am.

Wada-no-Ya 和田の屋 5-3 Otakiyama 088 652 8414, wadanoya.com/en. This is a delightful teahouse at the foot of Bizan with a view onto a rock garden. Matcha and Tokushima’s signature yaki-mochi (small, lightly toasted patties of pounded rice and red beans) cost ¥670. There are also small branches in the Clement Plaza and the Awa Odori Kaikan. Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm.

DRINKING MAP

Tokushima has no shortage of bars, with the densest concentration in Akitamachi, the city’s lively entertainment area. Rooftop beer gardens open during the summer at several hotels, including the Hotel Clement.

Bar Domino どみの 1-33 Akitamachi 088 655 6556. This sophisticated and intimate mood-lit cocktail and whisky bar is located in a 50-year-old traditional house with a modern interior. Cocktails are priced from ¥800, whisky shots from ¥1000, and the snack menu includes pizza (¥1000) and buckwheat salad (¥800). You can opt for counter or table seating. Daily 7pm–5am.

DIRECTORY

Hospital Tokushima Prefectural Central Hospital (Kenritsu Chūō Byōin) is at 1-10-3 Kuramoto-chō 088 631 7151.

Police The main police station is close to Kachidoki-bashi 088 622 3101..

Post office The Central Post Office is just south of the JR station at 1-2 Yaoya-machi (daily 9am–7pm, Sat till 5pm, Sun till 12.30pm).

Around Tokushima

North of Tokushima are the whirlpools of Naruto, and to the south there are popular surf beaches, the pretty coastal village of Hiwasa (where turtles lay their eggs on the beach each summer) and the jagged cape at Muroto, across the border in Kōchi-ken. Inland, the best place to head is the spectacular Iya Valley, where you’ll find the river gorge at Ōboke.

Naruto Whirlpools

鳴門 • Cruise boats Daily 9am–4.20pm (every 30–40min; around 25–30min) • ¥1800 (¥2800 for first-class cabin), ¥2400 in glass-bottomed boat • 088 687 0101, uzusio.com/en • Uzu-no-Michi walkway 渦の道 Daily: March–Sept 9am–5.30pm; Oct–Feb 9am–4.30pm; Golden Week & summer holidays 8am–6.30pm • ¥510 • uzunomichi.jp/lang_en • Take the regular direct bus from Clement Plaza (around 1hr 20min; ¥690)

SURFING AROUND HIWASA

Big waves and warm currents from the Pacific make the southern part of Tokushima prefecture one of the best places for surfing in western Japan. The popular surfing spot of Kaifu (海部), 26km south of Hiwasa, is where the JR train line ends and is replaced with the private Asa Kaigan railway. To continue south, you’ll nearly always have to change trains here – simply cross over to the opposite platform. There’s a ¥270 extra charge to travel the remaining two stops – the first is Shishikui (宍喰), Tokushima’s top surf beach, where there’s a good range of accommodation and surf shops that rent out boards (from ¥2000 per day). The end of the line is Kannoura (甲浦), a sleepy village with another popular surfing beach, Ikumi (生見), located just over the border in Kōchi prefecture. If you’re travelling from further afield, an express bus also departs from Osaka (Nankai Namba Station) directly for Shishikui (4–5hr ¥5200 one-way, ¥9100 return), which can be boarded at Tokushima and other locations along the route.

The town of NARUTO, around 13km north of Tokushima, is famous for the whirlpools that form nearby as the tides change and water is forced through the narrow straits between Shikoku and Awajishima. This is one of Tokushima’s most heavily hyped attractions, but it’s not a reliable phenomenon. The whirlpools are at their most dramatic on days of the full and new moon; to avoid a wasted journey, check first on the tidal schedule with tourist information in Tokushima or the timetables on the Uzusio website ( uzusio.com/en/siomi).

One way to see the whirlpools up close is to hop on a tourist cruise boat from Kameura-ko. There are two options for viewing the whirlpools on foot: you can traverse the Uzu-no-Michi, a walkway under Naruto’s bridge that puts you 45m directly above the maelstrom, or go for the cheaper alternative – a bird’s-eye view from Naruto-kōen, the park on Oge Island just to the north of Naruto town.

Hiwasa

日和佐

Picturesque HIWASA, 55km south of Tokushima, is worth a visit for its intriguing temple, castle, quaint harbour and pretty beach. Facing the Pacific Ocean, the coast around town offers some of the best surfing spots in Japan, and attracts wave-seekers all year round. From November to February, it’s also a well-known spot for watching the sun rise as it emerges from across the ocean.

Yakuō-ji

薬王寺 • 285-1 Okugawachiji-mae • 088 477 0023, yakuouji.net

Yakuō-ji, the 23rd temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage, is on the hillside as you pull into Hiwasa train station. It’s particularly popular as a temple, as it’s claimed to have powers to ward off bad luck. Climbing the steps to the main temple, you won’t fail to notice lots of ¥1 coins on the ground: some pilgrims place a coin on each step for luck as they head up. At the top of the steps is the main temple area, where the buildings date from 815 and there’s a striking statue of a goddess carrying a basket of fish and flanked by lotus blooms. Off to the right is a more recently built single-storey pagoda. There’s a good view of Hiwasa’s harbour from the platform, but the highlight here is the descent into the pagoda’s darkened basement, where you can fumble your way around a pitch-black circular corridor to a central gallery containing Brueghel-like painted depictions of all the tortures of hell. In a second gallery is a creepy scroll showing the steady decay of a beautiful, but dead, young woman.

Hiwasa-jō

日和佐城 • 445-1 Hiwasaura • Daily 9am–4pm • Free • 088 477 1111

About 1km south of Hiwasa harbour, the reconstructed castle Hiwasa-jō sits atop Shiroyama and has impressive views of the town and coastline. Aside from that, there’s not a lot to see on display, but the grounds are very pleasant during March and April, when the cherry blossoms are in bloom.

Sea Turtle Museum

うみがめ博物館カレッタ, Umigame Hakubutsukan Karetta • 374-4 Hiwasaura • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥610 • 088 477 1110, caretta-hiwasa.com

Turtles lay their eggs between May and August at Ōhama beach (大浜), north of the harbour. During this time, the beach is roped off and spectators must watch the action from a distance. For a closer look, make your way to the Sea Turtle Museum beside the beach. The displays here are mainly in Japanese, but they depict step-by-step photos of turtles laying their eggs. You can also see some turtles swimming in indoor and outdoor pools. In mid-July, there’s a turtle festival involving ceremonies on Ōhama beach, as well as some events at the museum.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION HIWASA

By train Limited express (1hr; ¥2840) and local trains (1hr 35min; ¥1110) link Hiwasa to Tokushima daily.

Tourist information There’s a left-luggage service (¥200/bag) at the small tourist information office at the Hiwasa station (daily 10am–3pm; 088 477 0768), where you can also pick up an English map of the town. There is also a tourist information desk (daily 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun from 8am; 088 477 2121) in the Michi-no-eki rest stop on the other side of the station, which also has a free wi-fi spot.

GETTING AROUND

By bike Renting a bicycle for the day is a good idea, as the town’s sights are quite spread out. The tourist information desk at the Michi-no-eki rest stop rents bicycles for ¥500 per day, though they have to be returned by 5pm.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Business Hotel Cairns ビジネスホテルケアンズ 75-16 Okugawauchi Benzaiten 088 477 1211, hotel-cairns.net. This no-frills business hotel is conveniently located right across from the station – particularly useful if you arrive in Hiwasa late in the day. It’s clean and friendly, but facilities are minimal. All rooms have futons on tatami platforms. There are also a couple of rooms (sharing a kitchen and a bathroom) in the annex. (¥5000). ¥8500

Hiwasaya ひわさ屋 122 Okugawauchi Teramae 088 477 3528. This popular restaurant is a good lunch spot and serves a variety of chicken dishes. The tasty oyakodon (“parent-and-child bowl”), a helping of rice topped with soy-sauce-flavoured chicken and egg (¥1050), is highly recommended. 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm, closed Wed.

Murakami むらかみ 68-1 Okugawauchi Benzaiten 088 477 0083. Murakami serves locally fished aori-ika (reef squid). The super-fresh sashimi on rice aori-ika-don sets, with soup and pickles, are great value at ¥1550. 11.30am–9pm, closed Tues.

Umigamesō うみがめ荘 370 Hiwasaura 088 477 1166, umigamesou.com. This large minshuku is close to the Sea Turtle Museum and beach, with tatami-style rooms. Guests can use the large outdoor public bath, which has stunning sea views. If you want to eat dinner or breakfast here (not included in the room price), you must reserve these in advance. ¥7000

White Lighthouse ホテル白い燈台 455 Hiwasaura 088 477 1170, shiroitodai.jp. Situated on the edge of a rocky cliff, this is the most scenic place to stay in Hiwasa. Choose from Western- or (pricier) Japanese-style rooms, all with gorgeous ocean views. Rates include breakfast; the half-board option also features a beautifully presented seafood dinner. ¥12,400

Muroto Misaki

室戸岬

From Kannoura, buses continue south to the black-sand beaches and rugged cape of MUROTO MISAKI, an important stop on Shikoku’s pilgrimage route. On the way, look out for Meotoiwa (夫婦岩) – two huge rocky outcrops between which a ceremonial rope has been strung, creating a natural shrine. Virtually at the cape, a towering white statue of Kōbō Daishi commemorates the spot where the priest gained enlightenment when he had a vision of the Buddhist deity Kokūzō in a nearby cavern.

Apart from bathing in deep-sea water at Searest Muroto, there’s not much else to do at Muroto Misaki other than take in the spectacular views and follow a series of paths along the shore and up the mountainside to the rustic temple.

SeaRest Muroto

シレストむろと • 3795-1 Muroto Misaki-chō • Daily except every second & fourth Wed 10am–9pm • ¥1300 • 088 22 6610, searest.jp

In recent years, Muroto Misaki has attracted pilgrims of a different ilk to those hiking the henro trail. Here, unusual currents off the cape push mineral-rich seawater from as deep as 1000m closer to the surface. Near the Kōbō Daishi statue, this deep-sea water is pumped into SeaRest Muroto, a state-of-the-art bathing complex where you can choose to be pummelled by high-pressure water jets, relax in a spa bath or follow a workout video on a pool-side touch-controlled screen.

Hotsumisaki-ji

最御崎寺 • 4058-1 Muroto Misaki-chō • 24hr • Free

Pilgrims pay their respects at the Kōbō Daishi statue before tackling the steep climb up to the glade of lush vegetation swaddling Hotsumisaki-ji. The appealingly shabby Buddhist temple, known locally as Higashi-dera (East Temple), is the 24th on the pilgrimage circuit.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MUROTO MISAKI

By train and bus Most trains run to Nahari all the way from Kōchi, though the Kōchi-to-Gomen stretch is on the JR lines. From Nahari, you can take a local bus, which runs hourly, to get to the cape (1hr; ¥1200). With an early start from Tokushima, it’s also possible to visit the cape and make it all the way to Kōchi in a day (and vice versa), but you should allow two days if you plan to linger at any point along the route. Coming from Tokushima, you’ll have to take a bus (55min; ¥1470) from Kannoura Station, where the Asa Kaigan line ends (every 2hr; 2hr 35min, via Kaifu).

Tourist information The Muroto Geopark Information Centre (daily 9am–5pm; 088 722 5161, www.muroto-geo.jp/en) has maps in English and will be able to assist if you’re stuck for somewhere to stay.

ACCOMMODATION

Hoshino Resort Utoco Auberge & Spa 星野リゾートウトコオーベルジュ＆スパ 6969-1 Muroto Misaki-chō 057 007 3022. This hotel and spa resort, next door to SeaRest Muroto, is housed in a series of striking circular buildings. English-speaking staff glide around in white coats, administering high-end beauty treatments designed by the renowned Japanese cosmetics artist Shu Uemura (packages from ¥14,500). The attached hotel has 17 chic rooms, all with unimpeded views of the Pacific. You can dine on local seafood at the hotel’s classy Italian Auberge restaurant. ¥34,000

Hotsumisaki-ji Youth Hostel 最御崎寺ユースホステル 4058-1 Muroto Misaka-chō 088 23 0024. Just behind Hotsumisaki-ji, this friendly temple-lodging facility offers spacious, clean tatami and Western rooms with separate bathrooms. The food here is excellent, and guests are served a hearty breakfast and dinner (you must order your meals when you book). ¥7500

Ōboke Gorge and Iya Valley

大歩危 • 祖谷

Inland from Tokushima, Highway 192 shadows the JR Tokushima line for around 70km to the railway junction at Awa Ikeda (阿波池田), which is also easily reached from Kotohira. From Awa Ikeda, the road and railway enter the spectacular Ōboke Gorge, created by the sparkling Yoshino-gawa. The vertiginous mountains here and around the adjacent Iya Valley can be coated in snow during the winter – a stark contrast, considering the palms of Kōchi sway in the sunshine around an hour’s drive south.

It was this sense of remoteness from the rest of the island that made the gorge an ideal bolt hole for the Taira clan in 1185, following their defeat at Yashima. Here, the warriors traded their swords for farm implements and built distinctive thatch-roofed cottages on the steep mountainsides. Decades of ugly construction projects and depopulation have since disrupted this traditional lifestyle, but there is a growing awareness of the importance of conserving Iya’s cultural heritage. Deep in the mountainous heart of Shikoku, the valley continues to retain a special atmosphere, and is often referred to as the Tibet of Japan.

Chiiori

篪庵 • 209 Tsurui Higashi Iya • Day visit (noon–2pm) by appointment only • ¥500 • 088 388 5290, chiiori.org

High up in the Iya Valley, in the village of Tsurui (釣井), is a beautifully restored 300-year-old thatched cottage called Chiiori, meaning the “house of the flute”. The story of how American writer Alex Kerr saved Chiiori from the elements and spent decades restoring it is an unforgettable part of his award-winning book, Lost Japan. The cottage retains the traditional features seen in Iya architecture, such as wooden floors and an irori sunken hearth, and has been decorated using traditional Japanese crafts and design. A modern kitchen and bathroom have also been recently installed, and the overall result is exceptional.

As part of Kerr’s vision to revive rural areas through sustainable tourism based on cultural heritage, it’s possible to stay at Chiiori. Getting away from the noise, clutter and pollution of contemporary urban life in such an idyllic retreat, where you can enjoy broad views out across the misty valleys, is a memorable experience. The Chiiori Trust is also helping to restore other thatched cottages in the area, and eight of these are now available to visitors for short-term stays in the pretty hillside village of Ochiai (see tougenkyo-iya.jp for details).

Roadside Station Ōboke

道の駅大歩危, Michi no Eki Ōbake Ishi no Hakubutsukan • 1553-1 Kamimyo Yamashiro-chō • Daily 9am–4.40pm; Dec– Feb closed Tues • ¥500 • 088 384 1489, yamashiro-info.jp/lapis

To learn more about the area’s geology and mythology, pop into the Roadside Station across the river and about 1km north of Ōboke Station. Inside, there’s a rock museum featuring a model of the gorge and all manner of stones, including a meteorite from Mars and various glittering gems, as well as the so-called Yōkai House, a colourful exhibition of yōkai, the legendary goblin-like monsters that are said to roam these parts. The roadside station also doubles as a tourist information centre, and you can pick up pamphlets in English.

RIDING ŌBOKE’S RAPIDS

With thrilling rapids and spectacular rocky scenery, a boat trip (daily 9am–4.30pm; 30min; ¥1200) down the Yoshino-gawa is the best way to view the Ōboke Gorge. Boats leave from the Mannaka restaurant ( 088 384 1211, manaka.co.jp), a five-minute walk past the Roadside Station Ōboke.

More exciting rafting and canyoning trips on the Yoshino-gawa are offered between March and October by the Australian-run Happy Raft ( 088 775 0500, en.happyraft.com) further upriver near Tosa Iwahara Station; half-day trips start at ¥5000, while full-day ones start at ¥9000.

Iya no Kazura-bashi

祖谷のかずら橋 • 162-2 Zentoku Nishi Iya • Daily 7am–9.30pm • ¥550

At Nishi Iya (西祖谷), Iya no Kazura-bashi is one of only three bridges left in the area dating from Taira times, when bridges were made out of shirakuchi (mountain vines) and bamboo so they could easily be cut down to block an enemy. The Taira would have a tougher time chopping down the Kazura-bashi today, since it’s been strengthened with carefully concealed steel cables.

Just like other attractive tourist spots in Japan, the developments surrounding this vine bridge – such as the large concrete car park lurching over the ravine and the rows of tourist shops – detract a little from the natural beauty of the area, and there are often hordes of tourists lining up to cross. It’s also now possible to visit at night, thanks to the recent addition of coloured lights (7–9.30pm). If you’re looking for a less touristy alternative, visit Oku-Iya Nijū Kazura-bashi.

Nagoro

なごろ

The last village in the Iya Valley, Nagoro, around 30km further on from Nishi Iya, is representative of many rural areas in Japan, decimated by economic migration and with just a handful of aging inhabitants. Since 2003, though, local resident Tsukimi Ayano has been single-handedly repopulating the village – with hundreds of life-sized dolls. Now known across Japan as Kakashi no Sato, or the Scarecrow Village, Nagoro is home to around 270 stuffed citizens, who outnumber local residents ten to one and can be seen waiting at the bus stop, tending their gardens, shopping in the local store or studying at desks in the village school, which closed down years ago. You’re free to wander around, and into the public buildings (there’s also a gym full of scarecrows) during normal working hours.

Oku-Iya Nijū Kazura-bashi

奥祖谷二重かずら橋 • 620 Yamason Higashi Iya • April–Nov daily 7am–5pm • ¥550

A few kilometres east of Nagoro is the picturesque Oku-Iya Nijū Kazura-bashi, a pair of vine bridges also known as the “Fufu-bashi” (“husband and wife bridges”). The bridges tend to sway as you cross them, so it can be a little unnerving if there are many others crossing at the same time. There’s also a man-powered three-seater wooden yaen (rope cart), which is another traditional form of transportation in the area and an entertaining way to cross the river.

Tsurugi-san

剣山 • Ropeway daily 9am–4.45pm; closed Dec to late April • ¥1030 one-way, ¥1860 return • 088 362 2772

At 1955m, Tsurugi-san is Shikoku’s second-highest mountain and is worth visiting for its enchanting forest paths and pure mountain springs. As it’s a sacred site, it was off-limits to women up until the early twentieth century. You can time your visit to coincide with the festival held at the summit each July, but visitors more often come to Tsurugi-san on a day hike; it’s a four-hour round trip starting at Minokoshi (見ノ越), from where there’s a ropeway that’ll lead you most of the way up.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ŌBOKE GORGE AND IYA VALLEY

By train Regular express trains from Okayama (1hr 30min), Takamatsu (1hr), Tokushima (1hr 10min) and Kōchi (1hr 10min) stop at Awa Ikeda, with most Okayama and Kōchi trains also stopping at Ōboke. Several local trains also ply the route through the Iya Valley between Awa Ikeda and Ōboke daily (20min), but they are infrequent.

Tourist information The Miyoshi City Tourist Information Centre is beside Awa Ikeda Station (daily 9am–6pm; 088 376 0877), while the Roadside Station Ōboke (daily 9am–4.40pm, Dec–Feb closed Tues; 088 384 1489, yamashiro-info.jp/lapis) also doubles as a tourist information centre for the area.

GETTING AROUND

By car and bike To get to Chiiori and many of the area’s other attractions, you’re best off using either a car or bicycle – but keep in mind that pedalling up and down the valleys is tough work, if you opt for the latter. It’s possible to rent a car for as little as ¥5000 for 3hr from the Mannaka restaurant ( 088 384 1211, mannaka.co.jp). With your own transport, you’ll have the choice of taking the quieter Route 32 through the Iya Valley.

By taxi Without your own transport, your best bet is getting around by taxi (Iyakei Taxi; 088 387 2017).

By bus The Shikoku Transit Information Bureau ( 088 372 1231, yonkoh.co.jp) runs “Bonnet Bus” tours from the end of March to the end of November, starting and finishing in Awa Ikeda and taking in most of the area’s sights for ¥7800 (includes lunch and site admission). Occasional buses also run from Awa Ikeda Station (4 daily) and Ōboke Station (7 daily) to the main sights in the Iya Valley.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

With its rustic onsen and river-rafting possibilities, the Iya Valley is a popular tourist spot that offers a good range of accommodation in beautiful natural settings.

Awa Ikeda Youth Hostel 阿波池田ユースホステル 3798 Nishiyama Sako, Ikeda-chō 088 372 5277, awaikeda-yh.com. Part of a temple, this hostel is in a spectacular location on the side of the mountain overlooking the town. The manager will pick you up at the station if you call ahead. Accommodation is in high-standard tatami rooms, which share a bathroom between them. There’s also a cosy communal lounge with a TV, and meals (breakfast ¥550, dinner ¥1100) are excellent. Dorms ¥3960

Chiiori 篪庵 209 Tsuirui, Higashi Iya 088 388 5290, chiiori.org. A rare chance to stay in an exquisitely restored traditional mountain lodge, Chiiori can sleep up to ten guests on futons; the price per head increases for smaller groups. The Chiiori Trust can help organize some meals, but you’ll mostly have to self-cater. If you don’t have your own transport, you’ll need to organize a taxi from Ōboke Station, as there’s no shuttle service for guests. ¥38,500

Iya Bijin 祖谷美人 9-3 Zentoku, Nishi Iya 088 387 2009, iyabijin.jp. Housed in a modern building with traditional style, this ryokan and restaurant enjoys a lovely setting overlooking the river gorge. The luxurious tatami rooms are spacious and elegantly decorated, and the more expensive rooms have their own onsen baths. Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥39,800

Iya Onsen ホテル祖谷温泉 Old Route 32, between the Iya-guchi and Nishi Iya junctions 088 375 2311, iyaonsen.co.jp. One of the most stylish ryokan in Shikoku, Iya Onsen is located up in the mountains and offers spectacular panoramic views of the gorge. It’s highly recommended for its excellent food (included in the rates) and luxurious, traditional rooms, which feature beautiful riverside vistas. ¥39,900

Kazuraya かずらや 78 Kanjo, Nishi Iya 088 387 2831, www.ctm.ne.jp/~kazuraya. This smart ryokan-style hotel is close to the Iya no Kazura-bashi vine bridge. Rooms are tatami-style and have wonderful valley views, and the hotel’s indoor and outdoor onsen bathing areas are nicely situated and very clean. Rates include delicious country-style meals. ¥26,000

Ku Nel Asob 空音遊 442 Enoki, Nishi Iya 080 6282 3612, k-n-a.com/eng.htm. Three kilometres’ walk south of JR Ōboke Station (call and someone will come and pick you up), this excellent, eco-friendly guesthouse, also known as K & A, offers large tatami rooms in a hundred-year-old house by the river. There’s no shower, but the friendly owners will take you to the local onsen, free of charge. Tasty macrobiotic, vegetarian or vegan dinners are available, with guests eating communally, like a big family. ¥20,000

EATING MAP

Several tourist restaurants around the Iya no Kazura-bashi serve yakisakana – fish roasted on sticks over hot coals. Set meals start at around ¥1000.

Iya Bijin 祖谷美人 9-3 Zentoku, Nishi Iya 088 387 2009, iyabijin.jp. This ryokan restaurant serves Iya soba noodles and has both indoor and outdoor seating with stunning views of the river below. The noodles are made using locally grown buckwheat and mountain spring water, which gives them a rich flavour. Make sure you order a bowl of the Genpei soba with beef and egg (¥1350), or the Sansai (mountain vegetable) soba (¥920). Daily 8am–5pm.

Nishiri にし利ラーメン 1468-1 Nishi Yamashiro-chō 0905 272 1052, west-west.com/nishiri. Located in the RiverStation West-West complex, this friendly ramen restaurant and café is a great place to stop for a snack. Bowls of Tokushima ramen start at around ¥720, while tasty gyōza dumplings are just ¥310 per plate. They also serve a small range of fresh juices, including sudachi citrus juice. Daily 11am–5pm.

Kōchi and around

高知

Sun-kissed KŌCHI lies dead in the centre of Shikoku’s arch-shaped southern prefecture of the same name. With its palm-lined avenues, network of rivers, enjoyable shopping arcades and gently trundling trams, it’s a pleasant town to explore. The area’s old name of Tosa is still used today, particularly when referring to the local cuisine. It wasn’t until 1603, when ruling daimyō Yamauchi Kazutoyo named his castle Kōchiyama (now Kōchi-jō), that the city adopted its present name.

The magnificent castle remains Kōchi’s highlight; to see the other places of interest, you’ll generally need to journey away from the city centre. The most immediately rewarding trip is to Godai-san-kōen, a beautiful mountain-top park overlooking the city, and the nearby Chikurin-ji, which is the 31st temple on Shikoku's famous pilgrimage circuit. South of the city lies Katsurahama, with its idyllic but slightly over-hyped beach, and the Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum that’s dedicated to a local hero of the Meiji Restoration. In the right season, Kōchi can also be a good base for whale-watching tours. The huge weekly Sunday Market (5am–4pm) on Kōchi’s Otesuji-dōri is worth attending, as it sees farmers from all over the prefecture bringing their produce to town, while the colourful Yosakoi Matsuri (Aug 9–12 each year) welcomes fourteen thousand dancers for a vibrant parade along the city’s streets.

Kōchi-jō

高知城 • 1-2-1 Marunouchi • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥420 to enter the donjon • 088 824 5701, kochipark.jp/kochijyo

Follow the covered Obiya-machi shopping arcade west of Harimaya-bashi to reach the hilltop Kōchi-jō. The feudal lord Yamauchi Kazutoyo began construction in 1601, but what you see today dates mainly from 1748, when reconstruction of the donjon turrets and gates was completed following a major fire just over twenty years earlier.

The main approach is through the Ōte-mon, an impressive gateway flanked by high stone walls at the end of Otesuji-dōri. In the anti-feudal fervour that heralded the beginning of the Meiji era, almost all the castle’s buildings were demolished, leaving the steeply sloping walls surrounding empty courtyards. The exception was the three-storey donjon, within the inner citadel (honmaru). To the left of the entrance, there’s an exhibition of old samurai armour and a scroll from 1852 showing the English alphabet, written by John Mung. In the main building, look out for a beautifully painted palanquin before you ascend to take in the superb view from the top storey.

SAKAMOTO RYŌMA

You’d have to be extremely pre-occupied to miss the scowling features of Kōchi’s favourite son, Sakamoto Ryōma, on posters and other memorabilia around the area. Born in 1835 to a mixed samurai and farming family, Sakamoto directly challenged the rigid class structure of the Shogunate years by leaving the city to start a trading company in Nagasaki (samurai never normally dirtied their hands in business). In his travels around Japan, he gathered support for his pro-Imperial views, eventually forcing the shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, to agree to give supreme power back to the emperor. But one month later, on December 10, 1867, Sakamoto was assassinated in Kyoto. Although he was just 33 at the time, his writings included an enlightened plan for a new political system for Japan, aspects of which were later embraced by the Meiji government.

To the west of the castle is adjacent Josei-kōen, which is popular with local families and has an attractive, well-manicured pond area with a couple of interesting metal sculptures. The park is bordered by the Enokuchi-gawa on its western side and is a busy spot for riverside cherry blossom-viewing parties in spring.

Kōchi Prefectural Museum of Art

高知県立美術館, Kōchi Kenritsu Bijutsukan • 353-2 Takasu • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥360 • 088 866 8000, moak.jp/en • 15min tram journey east of Harimaya-bashi – ask to get off at Kenritsu Bijutsukan-dōri

A stylish building set in landscaped grounds, Kōchi Prefectural Museum of Art is home to an impressive collection of modern art, including a gallery of lithographs, paintings by Marc Chagall and Paul Klee, and a theatre with a specially designed stage for nō plays. Films and other performances are occasionally held here, too.

Yokoyama Ryūichi Memorial Manga Museum

横山隆一記念まんが館, Yokoyama Ryūichi Kinen Manga-Kan • 2-1 Kutanda • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • ¥410 • 088 883 5029, bunkaplaza.or.jp/mangakan

The Kōchi Cultural Plaza is home to the Yokoyama Ryūichi Memorial Manga Museum. Though Tezuka Osamu is credited with revolutionizing the world of manga after World War II, it was Yokoyama (1909–2001), a native of Kōchi, who paved the way for Tezuka’s success by founding the Shinmanga-ha Shudan manga group in Tokyo in 1932. It was the members of this group who brought a freshness and vitality to the previously staid world of Japanese animation. The museum is full of examples of Yokoyama’s work, including his signature creation “Eternal Boy” Fuku-chan, a comic strip that clocked up a record 5534 serializations before bowing out in 1971. There’s also an exact replica of one of his ateliers, as well as a mock-up of the quirky bar he used to have in his house.

Yosakoi Information Exchange Center

よさこい情報交流館, Yosakoi Jōhō Kōryūkan • 1-10-1 Harimaya-machi • 10am–6pm, closed Wed • Free • 088 880 4351, honke-yosakoi.jp

Kōchi’s famous dance festival Yosakoi Matsuri, held in early August, might not be as historical as Tokushima’s Awa Odori, but it’s just as colourful. Yosakoi, a highly energetic and fast-paced dance form, developed in Kōchi during the postwar era, combining traditional dance moves with modern music, and the first festival was held in the city in 1964. At the Yosakoi Information Exchange Center you can learn more about the history of Yosakoi through the colourful displays of costumes and the use of naruko, the small wooden clappers held by each dancer. There’s also a theatre where you can watch dance teams from previous festivals, and a dance studio where you can learn the steps from an instructional video.

Godai-san-kōen

五台山公園 • Daily sunrise–sunset • Free • The MY-Yu bus from Kōchi Station stops at Godai-san Observatory; local buses also run daily from Harimaya-bashi to Aoyogi-bashi Higashi-zume (around 20min), from where it’s a 30min walk uphill

Perched 2km south of the city centre on the mountaintop overlooking Kōchi’s harbour is Godai-san-kōen, famous for its beautiful cherry blossoms and azaleas. The park is a pleasant place to stroll around or take a picnic lunch, and there’s an observatory with a rooftop deck with excellent views across the city.

Chikurin-ji

竹林寺 • 3577 Godai-san • Temple Daily 8am–5pm • Free • Treasure Hall Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥400 • 088 882 3085, chikurinji.com • The MY-Yu bus from Kōchi Station stops opposite the temple

Alongside Godai-san-kōen lie the equally pleasant grounds of the Chikurin-ji. This temple (the 31st on the pilgrimage circuit) was founded in 724, so it’s among the oldest temples in the prefecture – its atmospheric main building, decorated with intricate carvings of animals, dates from the Muromachi period. The pagoda, built in the 1970s, is said to contain a bone of the Buddha from Bodh Gaya in India, but there’s no way of seeing this for yourself since the tower is closed to the public. The Treasure Hall, to the right of the temple’s main entrance gate, is worth a visit for its traditional gardens, overlooked by an Edo-era villa, and small collection of Tantric statues and Buddhas.

Makino Botanical Garden

牧野植物園, Makino Shokubutsuen • 4200-6 Godai-san • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥720 • 088 882 2601, makino.or.jp • The MY-Yu bus from Kōchi Station stops outside the garden’s front gate

Opposite Chikurin-ji temple sits the large Makino Botanical Garden, a pleasant parkland that has lovely views out to the coast. It was dedicated to celebrated local botanist Dr Makino Tomitarō, who died in 1957 aged 95. The large greenhouse and fossil gallery, easily spotted since it has a giant model of a Tyrannosaurus rex outside, are blots on an otherwise peaceful landscape. The rather more tasteful Makino Museum of Plants and People is designed to harmonize with the environment.

Katsurahama

桂浜 • 13km south of Kōchi • Frequent buses head to Katsurahama from Kōchi’s Harimaya-bashi (¥690; 35min); the My-Yu bus runs directly from Kōchi Station

Katsurahama is famous for two things: its beach and the Tosa fighting dogs that compete in mock sumo tournaments. The crescent-shaped beach, though capped off at one end with a picturesque clifftop shrine, is rather pebbly, and swimming isn’t allowed because of strong currents. You should give the vicious canine bouts a wide berth, too. The main reason to come here is to learn more about Kōchi’s hero, Sakamoto Ryōma.

Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum

高知県立坂本龍馬記念館, Kōchi Kenritsu Sakamoto Ryōma Kinenkan • 830 Urado-shiroyama • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥490 • 088 841 0001, ryoma-kinenkan.jp

The architecturally stunning building that houses the Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum is on the headland above Katsurahama beach. Dedicated to local hero Sakamoto, the building uses bold colours and a radical freestanding design for the main exhibition halls. Inside, there are state-of-the-art displays using touchscreens, as well as artefacts like the blood-spotted screen from the room in which Sakamoto was assassinated in Kyoto; a good English pamphlet helps guide you through the exhibition spaces. If the weather is good, you can walk out onto the top of the building for spectacular views of the Pacific. Down on the beach, there’s a large statue of Sakamoto gazing out over the ocean.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KŌCHI

By plane Kōchi Ryoma Airport ( 088 863 2906, kochiap.co.jp/en) is a 40min drive east of the city; a bus (¥720) runs at least hourly from the airport to Kōchi Station, while a taxi into the city will cost around ¥4500.

Destinations Fukuoka (2 daily; 1hr 10min); Kansai (8 daily; 45min); Nagoya (3 daily; 1hr 5min); Osaka Itami (6 daily; 45min); Tokyo Haneda (10 daily; 1hr 15min); Tokyo Narita (daily; 1hr 45min).

By train All trains arrive at Kōchi Station, at the top of Harimaya-bashi-dōri around 500m north of the city centre.

Destinations Awa Ikeda (14 daily; 1hr 10min); Kotohira (hourly; 1hr 30min); Nakamura (10 daily; 1hr 40min); Okayama (hourly; 2hr 25min); Takamatsu (hourly; 2hr 15min).

By bus Most buses arrive at and depart from just outside Kōchi Station.

Destinations Matsuyama (5 daily; 2hr 35min); Okayama (9 daily; 2hr 25min); Osaka (14 daily; 5hr 25min); Takamatsu (13 daily; 2hr 10min); Tokyo (daily; 11hr 40min).

Tourist information Just outside the south exit of Kōchi Station, in a swanky wooden building called the Tosa Terrace, you’ll find Kōchi’s excellent tourist information centre (daily 9am–5pm; 088 826 3337). Also helpful is the Kōchi International Association (KIA), close to the castle on the second floor of the Marunouchi Biru (4-1-37 Honmachi; Mon–Sat 8.30am–5.15pm; 088 875 0022, kochi-kia.or.jp), which also has a small library of English books and magazines.

GETTING AROUND

While central Kōchi is easily negotiated on foot, the distances between the major sights make catching a tram or bus a sensible option.

By tram The tram terminus is immediately outside the south exit of Kōchi Station. The system consists of two lines, with one running north to south from the station to the port, crossing the east to west tracks at Harimaya-bashi. To travel within the city it costs a flat ¥200, paid to the driver upon leaving the tram; you’ll need to ask for a transfer ticket (norikae-ken) when you switch lines at Harimaya-bashi. A one-day ticket covering the central city area costs ¥500; an ¥1000 ticket gives you access to everywhere on both lines.

By bus The My-Yu tourist bus leaves from Kōchi Station and takes a circular route to Katsurahama and Godai-san. A one-day pass costs ¥1000, a two-day pass is ¥1,600, and a Godai-san one-day pass is ¥600. These can be purchased from the tourist information office at Tosa Terrace and are half-price for overseas tourists (you’ll have to show your passport). My-Yu tickets also entitle you to free tram rides within the city centre.

By bike Bicycles are available for ¥500/day from OK Parking (OKパーキング; daily 8am–9pm; 088 871 4689), 100m east of the Sunday Market site along Otesuji-dōri.

By car Try Nippon Rent-A Car, at Kōchi Station ( 088 821 0919, nrgroup-global.com/en).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

You’ll find the usual cluster of business hotels close to the train station. More convenient for the shopping and entertainment districts are the hotels between Dencha-dōri and the city’s principal river, Kagami-gawa.

Jyoseikan 城西館 2-5-34 Kamimachi 088 875 0111, jyoseikan.co.jp. This elegant ryokan may be housed in a modern building, but it has a long history and offers top-grade, spacious tatami rooms with service fit for an emperor – which is probably why he stays here when he visits town. Its public bath is open to non-guests (noon–4pm; ¥1000). They also run night “ozashiki-asobi” tours, taking in traditional entertainment and popular night food stands. Rates include breakfast and a kaiseki dinner. ¥38,500

Katsuo Guest House かつおゲストハウス 4-7-28 Hijimacho 070 5352 1167, katuo-gh.com/en. Run by an energetic mother-and-daughter team, this friendly guesthouse has comfortable rooms (with futons) decorated creatively with different themes – the “Katsuo Room” is dedicated to the local bonito fish. There’s a shared kitchen and lounge area for guests. Dorms ¥2800, doubles ¥7600

Kōchi Youth Hostel 高知ユースホステル 4-5 Higashi-machi 088 823 0858, kyh-sakenokuni.com. This is one of Shikoku’s best youth hostels, based in a rustic building with lots of character. The friendly English-speaking manager used to work in a sake brewery, and offers sake-tasting courses after dinner each evening (¥500). You can stay in single rooms or dorms, and the nearest train station is Engyōji, two stops west of Kōchi Station, then a 5min walk. A simple breakfast costs ¥450. Dorms ¥2800, singles ¥3200

Kokumin Shukusha Katsurahama-so 桂浜荘国民宿舎 830-25 Urato Shiroyama 088 841 2201, katsurahama.jp. Located 13km south of central Kōchi, this modern hotel has spectacular views across the beach from its clifftop location and good-value, high-standard tatami rooms. ¥19,800

Los Inn Kōchi ロスイン高知 2-4-8 Kitahonmachi 088 884 1110, losinn.club. Close to the station, this friendly place has kitsch decor (a mixture of reproduction antiques, heavy leather sofas and 1970s-style chandeliers), an English-speaking manager and comfortable Western- and Japanese-style rooms. Guests may use bicycles for free. ¥8700

Sansuien 三翠園 1-3-35 Takajō-machi 088 822 0131, sansuien.co.jp. Don’t judge this ryokan by its modern exterior; it has a refined interior, and the attached traditional gardens and buildings beside the Kagami-gawa are reminiscent of old Japan. Some slightly cheaper Western-style rooms are also available. The onsen bath complex is also open to non-residents (daily 10am–4pm; ¥900). Rates include breakfast and dinner. ¥22,000

EATING MAP

The best area for eating in Kōchi is around the Obiya-machi arcade, although on Wednesdays you might find several places are closed. The warm weather and convivial atmosphere mean locals tend to favour the many cheap yatai (street stalls) around town, serving oden, ramen, gyōza and beer – check out the area beside the Enokuchi-gawa, near the Bowl Jumbo Centre. If you want to splash out, try sawachi-ryōri, Kōchi’s most refined style of cuisine, which features lots of fresh seafood like the famous local tuna, katsuo.

5019 Premium Factory 1-10-21 Obiya-machi 088 872 5019, 5019-premium.site. This laidback café and wine bar is a great spot to grab lunch or a late-night snack. Try the monster Ryōma Burgers – grilled katsuo patties with Kōchi vegetable salad (from ¥800). Glasses of wine start at ¥500. Daily 11am–2am, Fri & Sat till 3am, Sun till 1am.

Café de Libre 3F Kōchi Cultural Plaza, 2-1 Kutanda 088 882 7750. In the same building as the Yokoyama Ryūichi Memorial Manga Museum, this stylish and spacious café serves a good range of light meals, such as pasta and quiche, for around ¥1000, as well as some very tasty desserts and cakes. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm.

Habotan 葉牡丹 2-21 Komachi 088 872 1330, habotan.jp. This cheerful izakaya serves good local food, such as tataki-moriawase platters (¥1080) and “stamina” tofu (¥287). This is probably the only izakaya in Shikoku that opens for lunch – tuna rice bowls are ¥648 and grilled chicken lunch sets go for ¥771. 11am–11pm, closed Wed.

Hirome Ichiba ひろめ市場 2-3-1 Obiya-machi 088 822 5287. At the end of the Obiya-machi arcade, this lively indoor market has over sixty stalls selling a range of Japanese food, as well as Indian and Chinese specialities and even toasted sandwiches. You’ll eat well for under ¥1000, and the cheap beer and lively atmosphere mean you may even make a lot of new friends. Local food items and other sundries can also be purchased as souvenirs here. Daily 9am–11pm, Sun from 7am.

Issyun 一旬 8-1 Koshiro-chō 088 824 2030, issyun.jp. Appealing contemporary izakaya with a long counter bar and discreet nooks. It specializes in sake from around Shikoku as well as local beers and nicely presented seasonal food. Katsuo tuna dishes start at ¥1050, and lunchtime set meals are good value, from ¥850. Mon–Fri noon–3 & 5–11pm, Sat & Sun noon–4pm & 5pm–midnight.

Tokugetsuro 得月楼 1-17-3 Minami Harimaya-chō 088 882 0101, tokugetsu.co.jp. This traditional restaurant with kimono-clad waitresses and tatami rooms is the place to sample a sawachi-ryōri meal (lunch from ¥6600, dinner ¥8800). The lunch bentō (from ¥2750) are a more affordable option. Bookings essential. Daily 11am–2pm & 5–10pm.

Tsukasa つかさ 1-2-15 Harimaya-chō 088 873 4351. This sushi restaurant is an excellent place to sample the local favourite, katsuo no tataki – seared bonito tuna (¥1300), served with salt or ponzu vinegar dipping sauce. There are lots of salmon dishes on the menu, including croquettes (¥650), and the bowls of mixed sashimi are big enough for four people to share (¥2000). Mon–Sat 11.30am–10pm, Sun 11am–9.30pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

As the largest city on Shikoku’s southern coast, Kōchi attracts many people looking for a night on the town, so it’s not short of bars and has a lively atmosphere, especially at weekends. The city’s famous drinking street is Yanagi-machi, which runs parallel to the Obiya-machi arcade. During the summer, Kōchi’s many yatai and rooftop beer gardens are the ideal places to relax with a cold brew.

Irish Pub Amontillado 1-1-17 Obiya-machi 088 875 0599, facebook.com/IrishpubAmo. Owner Shimai-san’s fascinating tale of how this Irish bar ended up with a Spanish name trundles on for at least a couple of pints of Guinness or Kilkenny. There’s also decent fish ‘n’ chips and Irish stew (both ¥820), as well as occasional live music. Happy Hour runs from 5–8pm. Daily 5pm–1am, Fri & Sat till 2am, Sun till midnight.

K’s Bar 1-2-16 Obiyamachi 088 872 8070, k-s-bar.com. This stylish bar is a relaxed place to nurture a beer or a sake or two deep into the small hours, in one of the cosy booths or at the mahogany counter. They also stock a large range of Japanese whiskies. Daily 8.07pm–4am.

Love Jamaican B1 1-9-1 Obiya-machi 090 8973 4736. If you feel like dancing, this hip-hop and reggae bar is the place to mix it up with the locals. The door charge is usually ¥2000. Daily 9pm–late.

SHOPPING MAP

Kōchi is well known as a centre for handmade paper products, and the local variety is known as tosa washi.

Papier パピエ 2-8-11 Harimaya-chō 088 880 9185. Papier has a lovely selection of wrapping papers, cards and stationery goods. You can also buy metres of plain or dyed paper. 10am–6pm, closed Tues.

Tencosu てんこす 1-11-40 Obiya-machi 088 855 5411. This huge vendor of Kōchi crafts is a great place to pick up souvenirs. Prices are reasonable, and there’s a good range of cute tenugui hand towels and rustic local pottery. Daily 9am–9pm.

DIRECTORY

Hospital The Red Cross Hospital ( 088 822 1201) is behind Kōchi Station.

Internet There are free computer terminals with internet access at the Kōchi International Association and the Kōchi Tourist Information Center in Tosa Terrace, which is also a wi-fi hotspot. Most of the Obiya-machi and Harimaya-bashi shopping street area is also a free wi-fi zone, but a limit of up to four 15min sessions applies per day.

Laundry There are coin-operated machines outside the Tosa Bekkan.

Police The main police station is opposite Kōchi Station..

Post office The post office is just to the west of Kōchi Station (daily 9am–7pm, Sat till 5pm, Sun till12.30pm).

Western Kōchi-ken

Some of Shikoku’s best scenery is in western Kōchi-ken. Inland, you can raft or kayak down the beautiful Shimanto-gawa, while along the indented coast, carved by the savage Pacific Ocean, there are several fishing communities, including Kuroshio (黒潮), from where you can take whale-watching tours. The rocky cape at Ashizuri Misaki, 180km southwest of Kōchi with its twisting scenic roads, temple and lush foliage, is well worth the journey.

Shimanto-gawa and around

四万十川

Often claimed to be the last free-flowing river in Japan, the Shimanto-gawa actually has one small dam along its 196km length, though this doesn’t detract from its beauty, winding as it does through green countryside and past pine-clad slopes and terraced rice fields. This is the place to head for tranquil boating, cycling, fishing and canoeing. The river can be accessed from either Ekawasaki (江川崎) at the top end or Nakamura (中村) to the south.

Nakamura

中村

Nakamura, formally called Shimanto-shi, is larger than Ekawasaki and is the better-positioned option for those planning to travel south to Ashizuri Misaki after spending time on the river. In addition to all the usual river-related leisure activities, the small town also has a few historical sites worth seeing, including a number of shrines and ancient graves.

WHALE-WATCHING TOURS

It’s said that the whaling industry in Kōchi dates from 1591, when the local daimyō Chōsokabe Motochika gifted the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi in Osaka a whale and in return received eight hundred bags of rice. Japan and whales have, in recent times, become a controversial combination, but along Kōchi-ken’s coast few are complaining, as whale-watching tours are replacing the old way of making a living. The best time to see whales is May and August, though the season runs from spring through to autumn. Nothing’s guaranteed, but with a good skipper you can expect to see Bryde’s whales and false killer whales, as well as schools of white-sided and Risso’s dolphins.

TOURS

Ōgata Whale Watching 3573-5 Ukibuchi, Kuroshio-chō 088 043 1058, nitarikujira.com. Tours (Mon–Fri 10am, Sat & Sun 8am, 10am & noon) typically last 4hr and cost around ¥6000 per person in small boats holding eight to ten people.

SHIMANTO-GAWA CANOE TOURS

The best way to enjoy the beautiful Shimanto-gawa is to paddle along its gentle waters. There are a number of boat cruises, including in the traditional white-sailed Senba boats, which take large groups up and down the river. However, joining a canoe tour is both fun and relaxing, and the young Japanese guides are very enthusiastic and helpful for beginners. Depending on weather conditions, tours usually run from April until November. Both half-day (¥6000) and full-day (¥9000) courses are available, and all equipment is provided. For more details, see Canoe House ( canoekan.com) or Kawarakko ( kawarakko.com).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHIMANTO-GAWA

By train Ekawasaki Station is on JR’s plodding Yodo Line ( jr-shikoku.co.jp/yodo3bros), which runs from Kubokawa (窪川) on the bay side of Kōchi-ken to Uwajima. The trains that traverse the scenic route are tourist attractions in their own right. Nakamura Station is on the Tosa Kuroshio Line, which runs southwest from Kubokawa and terminates in Sukumo.

By bus There are a few buses (Mon–Sat) from Nakamura to Kuchiyanai, a stop-off point on the river roughly halfway to Ekawasaki.

By bike Cycling is also a good way to see the Shimanto-gawa, and numerous cycling tracks follow the river’s banks. Bikes are available to rent from various outlets, including the tourist office, for around ¥1000 for 5hr or ¥1500 for 24hr.

Tourist information The Shimanto City Tourist Information Centre is a 5min walk south of the JR station (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 088 034 1555). The English-speaking staff are very helpful, and there’s free wi-fi and a good selection of maps and pamphlets in English.

ACCOMMODATION

Nakamura Daiichi Hotel 中村第一ホテル 5-15 Ekimae-chō, Shimanto-shi 088 034 7211, park18.wakwak.com/~nd-h. Conveniently located right in front of Nakamura Station, this no-frills business hotel has clean and functional Western-style rooms. There’s an attractive Japanese restaurant on the second floor that serves decent meals, and the hotel staff are polite and helpful. ¥11,000

Hotel Seira Shimanto ホテル星羅四万十 1100 Nishi-Tosamochii, Shimanto-shi 088 052 2225, seirashimanto.com. The views from this elegant modern hotel, located on a hill in Ekawasaki overlooking the Shimanto-gawa, are superb. The hotel’s relaxing hot-spring spa also has great vistas, and the Japanese- and Western-style rooms are tastefully decorated. The in-house restaurant serves sweetfish and shrimp from the river, and breakfast and dinner are included in the rates. ¥20,400

Ashizuri Misaki

足摺岬

The tourist trail has beaten a steady path to ASHIZURI MISAKI, a small, friendly village spread thinly around the cape that makes up Shikoku’s most southerly point. Pilgrims have long been coming here to pay their respects at picturesque Kongōfuku-ji (金剛福寺), the 38th temple on the sacred circuit. Dedicated to the Buddhist deity Kannon, who symbolizes infinite compassion, the temple has a two-storey pagoda and is situated amid a palm grove at the eastern end of the village. Ashizuri’s white-painted lighthouse stands atop 80m-high cliffs, while at shore level there’s a natural rock arch, crowned by a small shrine. Also look out for the stern-looking bronze statue of John Mung at the cape, which is a popular photo spot with local tourists. All these sights are within easy walking distance of each other, along clifftop pathways that burst with crimson camellia blossoms each February.

JOHN MUNG

In the normal course of life, Nakahama Manjirō, born in 1827 into a poor family living near Ashizuri Misaki, would have lived and died a fisherman. However, his fortunes changed when he was marooned on an uninhabited volcanic island some 580km south of Tokyo, along with four shipmates. After nearly five months, they were saved by a landing party from a passing US whaling ship, who had come to the island in search of fresh water.

John Mung, as he was nicknamed, ended up serving with the American crew for four years, before returning with the captain, William Whitfield, to his home in Bedford, Massachusetts. This was the first known case of a Japanese person ever visiting the continental United States, as it was during Japan’s sakoku period, when it was a capital offence to leave the country – or return from abroad. A bright student, Mung mastered English, mathematics, surveying and navigation, and undertook journeys to Africa, Australia and around Southeast Asia. After profiting from the California Gold Rush of 1849, Mung returned to Japan in 1851, where he soon found himself serving as an advisor to the feudal lord of Tosa. Two years later, Mung was summoned to Tokyo to assist with the drawing up of international trade treaties, and in 1860 he returned to the US as part of a national delegation.

Before his death in 1898 he taught at the Kaisei School for Western Learning in Tokyo (later to become part of the prestigious Tokyo University), sharing the knowledge he had accumulated during a period when Japan was still living in self-imposed isolation from the rest of the world.

John Mung Museum

ジョン万次郎資料館, John Manjirō Shiryōkan • 303 Yoro, Tosa Shimizu (18km from Ashizuri) • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥440 • 088 082 3155, johnmung.info • Buses bound for Nakamura or Ashizuri stop at Tosa Shimizu

Nakahama Manjirō, also known as John Mung, was a local lad who travelled the world and pioneered relations between Japan and the USA in the early years of the Meiji Restoration. The interesting John Mung Museum, relocated from Ashizuri Misaki to the nearby town of Tosa Shimizu, includes some of Mung’s personal possessions, including a re-creation of his study and some fascinating displays on the whaling industry he was once part of.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ASHIZURI MISAKI

By train and bus To reach the cape by public transport, take a train to Nakamura (中村), then transfer to a bus (9 daily; 1hr 40min; ¥1900) directly outside the station. The journey becomes progressively more spectacular the closer to the cape you get, as the driver whips the bus around the narrow, cliff-hugging road. The buses all go to Kongōfuku-ji, but most accommodation is closer to Ashizuri’s tiny bus station.

By car In your own car, you can opt for the less hair-raising but equally scenic Skyline Road, which runs down the middle of the peninsula to the cape.

Tourist information There’s a tourist information centre near the John Mung statue, which can provide general advice and help you with finding accommodation.

Services The Ashizuri Misaki post office has an ATM (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–noon).

THE YODO LINE BROTHERS

The three trains traversing the Yodo Line, namely the Shiman Torocco, Kaiyodo Hobby Train and Tetsudo Hobby Train, are affectionately known to railway enthusiasts as the Yodo Line Brothers ( jr-shikoku.co.jp/yodo3bros). The Shiman Torocco, which was the brainchild of noted industrial designer Mitooka Eiji, is of particular interest, as you can ride part of the line in an open-air carriage (torokko ressha) during August and on most weekends from March to November – a rarity in Japan, and an opportunity to better view and photograph the natural scenery en route. The Kaiyodo and Tetsudo hobby trains, which operate year-round, both have novel themes: the former was inspired by the animal figurines of its namesake Kaiyodo Co., and the latter is modelled on the first generation of Shinkansen (bullet trains).

JAPANESE-STYLE BULLFIGHTING

The best time to visit Uwajima is for one of its bloodless bullfights, or tōgyū, the bovine equivalent of sumo wrestling. Some accounts date the sport back four hundred years, while others pinpoint the origins to an event in the nineteenth century, when a Dutch captain made a gift of bulls to the town after local fishermen came to his ship’s aid during a typhoon. The bulls, weighing in at up to a tonne and treated like pampered pets by their owners, lock horns and push each other to the floor or out of the tournament ring. The fights are held five afternoons per year (January 2, the first Sunday in April, July 24, August 14 and the fourth Sunday in October; details at www.tougyu.com) at the Tōgyū-jō Bullring, a white-walled arena in the hills a twenty-minute walk east of the JR train station, above the city. Get there an hour early to soak up the atmosphere and watch the bulls being paraded around the ring. The bouts are very good-natured and the enthusiastic crowd is welcoming and friendly. Tickets cost ¥3000 (¥2500 if purchased in advance) and can be bought on the day at the arena.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Above the souvenir shops opposite Kongōfuku-ji, there are a few shokudō (cafeterias) serving lunch as well as hot drinks. In the evening, it’s advisable to arrange dinner with your accommodation, as night-time dining options in the area are very limited.

Ashizuri Kokusai Hotel 足摺国際ホテル 662 Ashizuri Misaki 088 088 0201, ashizuri.co.jp. This fairly standard-looking hotel has fabulous ocean views and plenty of facilities, such as a spa, karaoke room and coin laundry, and the Japanese-style rooms are clean and spacious. The food (two meals a day are included in the rates) is excellent, as it focuses on local Ashizuri seafood, and you can enjoy a soak in the rotemburo (outdoor bath) after dinner while gazing out to sea. ¥19,800

Ashizuri Thermae 足摺テルメ 1433-3 Higashihata Ashizuri Misaki 088 088 0301, terume.com. This large hotel and spa resort complex offers Western- and Japanese-style rooms of a good standard, and also has a stylish French restaurant. The hotel has a number of terraces and observation decks designed to help you enjoy the panoramic views of the Pacific. ¥19,300

Ashizuri Youth Hostel あしずりユースホステル 1351-3 Ashizuri Misaki 088 088 0324. This basic but friendly and relaxed hostel is next to a small shrine, and it’s the best budget option for the area. Accommodation is in small, clean tatami dorms, and meals are available if you reserve in advance (breakfast ¥650, dinner ¥1080). Dorms ¥4430

Uwajima and around

宇和島

From Sukumo, Route 56 leads to the coast, where the cliff-side road, passing though small fishing communities, provides unforgettable views of the deep-blue sea, carpeted with nets held up by a crisscross system of buoys. Pearls are cultivated here, and at the port of UWAJIMA, 67km north of Sukumo, there are plenty of shops selling them. The town’s main sights – which include a castle and a fertility shrine – can be seen easily in half a day, though it’s worth staying a night and using Uwajima as a base from which to explore the small country town of Uwa-chō to the north.

Taga-jinja

多賀神社 • 1340 Fujie • Sex museum daily 8am–5pm • ¥800 • 089 522 3444 • A 10min walk north of the JR station, across the Suka-gawa

Uwajima’s most provocative attraction, the fertility shrine Taga-jinja, is set back from the Suka-gawa in a small compound packed with various statues, most of which are stone or log phalluses. The attached sex museum, spread over three floors of a bland modern building, contains wall-to-wall erotica, with display cases packed to bursting point with all manner of sexual objects, literature and art.

On the ground floor is a collection of Japanese fertility symbols and figurines dating back centuries, including an ivory netsuke collection. The first floor holds similar objects from around the world, including displays devoted to Tibet, India, Europe and elsewhere; some of these exhibits are claimed to be the best part of two thousand years old. On the top floor is a large selection of Japanese erotic books and prints (shunga) dating all the way back to the Edo and Meiji periods.

Uwajima-jō

宇和島城 • 1 Marunouchi • Daily 9am–5pm; Oct–March till 4pm • ¥200 • 089 522 2832 • A 15min walk south of the JR station; there are two routes up to the donjon, either from the north through the gate of the Kōri samurai family, tucked back from the main road behind the post office, or from the Noboritachi-mon on the south side of the castle hill

One of just twelve remaining original castles in Japan, Uwajima-jō sits atop the hillside park that rises west of Route 56. The steep and somewhat gruelling walk up Shiro-yama to reach the castle is worth the trouble, as you’ll climb beautiful moss-covered steps amid the surrounding forest. The compact, three-storey donjon may be authentic, and certainly gives a fine view of the surrounding city and port, but there’s little other reason to pay the entrance charge because there’s hardly anything to see on display inside.

WAREI TAISAI

The major festival of Warei Taisai, held at Warei-jinja, to the east of Taga-jinja, from the evening of July 22 to July 24, involves huge models of devilish bulls (ushi-oni) and ornate portable shrines being paraded in the streets – the aim being to dispel evil. The bulls, like giant pantomime horses, eventually do battle in the river, while at the shrine there’s much banging of taiko, lots of bonfires and a fireworks finale.

Tensha-en

天赦園 Tensha-kōen • 9-9 Goten-machi • Daily 8.30am–5pm; July–March till 4.30pm • ¥500 • 089 522 0056

A short walk south of the castle park is the small formal garden of Tensha-en. Dating from 1866, the pretty garden is laid out in circular style with a feature made of a wisteria trellis over a pond. Nearby, you can also explore the narrow residential streets immediately southeast of the centre. Here shrines, temples and graveyards are huddled on the slopes leading up to the Mori no Yado Uwajima Youth Hostel. Even if you’re not staying at the hostel, the hill is worth climbing for the sweeping views of the town.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION UWAJIMA

By train Uwajima Station is the terminus for both the JR Yodo Line running from Kubokawa and the JR Yosan Line from Matsuyama.

Destinations Kubokawa (6 daily; 2hr 15min); Matsuyama (hourly; 1hr 25min).

By bus Buses to and from Sukumo stop in front of Uwajima Station as well as at the main bus centre at the foot of the castle hill on Route 56.

Destinations Matsuyama (hourly; 2hr 20min); Sukumo (10 daily; 2hr).

Tourist information Inside the JR station is a small tourist information booth (daily 9am–5.30pm). The Uwajima Sightseeing Information Centre at Kisaya Hiroba, near the port, is staffed with English-speakers and has English maps and pamphlets for the area (daily 9am–5.30pm; 089 522 3934).

Services You can change money at Iyo Bank just off the Gintengai, and there’s an ATM at the main post office near Kōri-mon. Out of hours, the convenience store next to the Uwajima Oriental Hotel has a 24-hour ATM.

GETTING AROUND

By bike Renting a bike to get around is a good idea; the information booth at the station can help arrange bicycle rental (¥100/hr).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Kiya Ryokan 木屋旅館 2-8-2 Oute-Honmachi 089 522 0101, kiyaryokan.com/en. The chance to spend the night in the stylishly restored Meiji-era Kiya Ryokan is reason alone to stay in Uwajima. More of a boutique hotel than a traditional ryokan, you’ll have the place to yourself, and the staff only appear at breakfast time. There are three gorgeous guest rooms, sleeping up to eight in total between them, as well as a library, a living room and a small garden. ¥32,400

Kokusai Hotel 国際ホテル 4-1 Nishiki-machi 089 525 0111, uwajima-kokusaihotel.jp. Close to the station, this standard hotel is friendly but starting to show its age. There are large, well-appointed Japanese rooms, as well as some darker Western-style rooms with outlandish 1970s decor. ¥12,500

Mori no Yado Uwajima Youth Hostel 森の宿宇和島ユースホステル 166-11 Daichō-ji 089 522 7177, uwajimayh.iku4.com. The building’s a bit dreary, but the views on the way up the hill and the friendly reception from the young, English-speaking couple who run the place make this a worthwhile spot to stay. There’s table tennis, a treehouse and free bike rental. The hostel is at the top of a steep hill, a 20min walk south of the JR station. If you’re carrying heavy luggage, it’s best to take a taxi there (around ¥900) or ask the manager to pick you up. Dorms ¥3600

Tsukigase 月ヶ瀬 1-5-20 Miyuki-machi 089 522 4788. This old-fashioned ryokan next to the Suka-gawa is a little quirky, but the rooms are spacious and well kept, and there’s a fine attached fish restaurant, Tsukigase as well as a rooftop communal bath. Rates (substantially cheaper on weekdays) include two meals. ¥24,000

Uwajima Oriental Hotel 宇和島オリエンタルホテル 6-10 Tsurushima-chō 089 523 2828, oriental-web.co.jp/uwajima. This stylish business hotel, a few minutes’ walk from the station, has comfortable rooms and budget rates. At check-in, you’ll be offered the luxury of a pillow menu. There’s a decent restaurant, and they also offer e-bike rental (3hr). ¥15,200

EATING MAP

Not surprisingly for a port, Uwajima offers ample opportunity to eat fresh fish – two popular dishes are tai-meshi (sea bream sashimi on top of hot rice) and iyo satsuma (strips of fish mixed with a white miso sauce and eaten with rice). For cheaper lunch options and cafés, try Uwajima Gintengai shopping arcade.

Gokan カフェ五感 2-4-6 Chūō-chō 089 5287 459. Located just off the town’s main shopping arcade, this trendy izakaya is very popular with the locals. It has an eclectic menu of Italian-influenced food, but with some unusual Japanese touches. The nama-hamu (raw ham) pizza (¥1100) is very tasty, and their original tomato nabe (¥870), which uses tomato soup stock and herb sausages, is a unique take on the classic Japanese dish. Mon–Sat 5pm–1am.

Hozumi-tei ほづみ亭 2-3-8 Shin-machi 050 3464 9477. An appealingly rustic fish restaurant with tables and tatami seating areas overlooking a stream. There’s a good variety of local seafood dishes such as fried shrimp (¥850) and squid (¥650). Mon–Sat 11am–2pm & 5–10.10pm.

Kadoya Eki-mae かどや駅前 8-1 Nishiki-machi 089 522 1543, kadoya-taimeshi.com. With reasonable prices and friendly service, this is one of the best places in town offering seafood dishes, including taimeshi and jakoten-yaki (deep-fried crab), with various set menus from around ¥1500. There’s also a useful picture menu. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11am–2.30pm & 5–9pm, Thurs 5–9pm.

Tsukigase 月ヶ瀬 1-5-6 Miyuki-machi 089 522 4788. Bamboo grows in the centre of this restaurant specializing in fugu (in winter) and tempura. Set lunches start from as low as ¥790, while their satsuma-jiru meal is ¥1500. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–10.30pm.

Wabisuke 和日輔 1-2-6 Ebisu-chō 089 524 0028. This large restaurant near the castle combines traditional decor with a friendly welcome, and has a range of set meals including sashimi sets, soba, udon and kamameshi (a kind of pilaf). Lunches are available from ¥1200. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm & 5–10pm, Sun 11am–3pm & 5–9.30pm.

Nametoko Gorge

滑床渓谷, Nametoko Keikoku

Unlike the better-known and well-trodden Iya Valley in Tokushima, Nametoko Gorge really is Shikoku’s secret mountain paradise. Driving from Matsumaru Station (the jumping-off point for the gorge), the road becomes increasingly narrow and winding as you head deeper into the valley, and the surroundings begin to take on the otherworldly quality characteristic of Nametoko. Pressing on along the forest-fringed tracks, you’ll eventually come across the Shimanto-gawa below, with its gigantic boulders and crystal-clear water. Look out for the vast carpets of moss covering every surface – which even stretch onto the road in places.

Wildlife is plentiful in the area, so it’s not uncommon to see wild deer, boar and monkeys. There are also numerous walking tracks and paths on both sides of the river, so it’s relatively easy to explore the area on foot and discover a number of excellent sights, such as the Yukiwa no Taki. The thirty-minute walk to this waterfall from Mannen-bashi is well worth it, as the pristine water cascading down the 80m-high slab of granite makes for an impressive sight – it’s considered one of the best waterfalls in Japan. The gorge is also a popular place for canyoning in the warmer months, and in autumn it’s one of the top kōyō (autumn leaf-viewing) spots in Shikoku.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NAMETOKO GORGE

By train The closest station to Nametoko Gorge is Matsumaru on the JR Yodo Line, though it’s too far to walk from there and onward transport should be arranged.

Destinations Kubokawa (6 daily; 1hr 30min); Uwajima (8 daily; 45min).

By taxi There are no local buses to Nametoko, so you will need to take a taxi from Matsumaru Station (30min; ¥4100) if you don’t have your own transport. However, the Mori no Kuni Hotel will pick you up from the station for free if you call ahead.

Tourist information The Poppo Onsen next to Matsumaru Station (daily 10am–9.30pm) also doubles as a visitor centre and has wi-fi.

Activities Forest Canyoning ( 089 549 6663, nametoko.net) run canyoning courses along the Shimanto-gawa between April and October, starting at ¥7000 for a half-day trip.

ACCOMMODATION

There is only one option in the actual valley, but it’s also possible to stay in nearby Matsuno and take a day-trip to the gorge. There’s an attractive riverside campsite located near the main road on the approach to the hotel, but facilities there are very limited.

Mori no Kuni Hotel 森の国ホテル Meguro, Matsuno-chō 089 5430 331. Perfectly located in the heart of Nametoko Gorge, surrounded by all the natural beauty one could want, this charming hotel is reminiscent of a Swiss mountain chalet with its cute white facade and triangular red roof. It was closed for refurbishment at the time of writing, but when reopened expect the rooms to be as spacious and comfortable as before, and the communal lounge-bar with hearth and open fire just as welcoming. The hotel grounds are extensive, with a bridge and numerous paths leading into the surrounding forest or down to the river. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rates. ¥29,000

North of Uwajima

Between Uwajima and Matsuyama are three appealing small towns: Uwa-chō, Ōzu and Uchiko. They are interesting places to explore, mainly for their preserved streetscapes that evoke Japan’s Edo and Meiji periods. All three can easily be visited in a day via train.

Uwa-chō

宇和町

Less than 20km north of Uwajima, the small country town of UWA-CHŌ, with its lovely traditional townscape and excellent museum, makes a very pleasant half-day trip from Uwajima. Large tour groups don’t stop here, so there are few crowds.

Museum of Ehime History and Culture

愛媛県歴史文化博物館, Ehime-ken Rekishi Bunka Hakubutsukan • 4-1-2 Uno-machi • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥520, English audio guide ¥200 • 089 462 6222, i-rekihaku.jp • The museum can be reached by an infrequent bus (¥150) from the stop about a 5min walk south of the JR Uno-machi Station, along Route 56; the walk up the hill to the museum takes around 20min

Uwa-chō’s highlight is the outstanding Museum of Ehime History and Culture. Inside this ultra-modern building there are spectacular and informative displays, which include full-sized replicas of buildings, including a Yayoi-era (330 BC–300 AD) hut, a street of Meiji-era shops and a small wooden temple. The folklore exhibit in the centre of the museum includes examples of the fabulous portable shrines, costumes and other decorations used in local festivals, such as Uwajima’s Warei Taisai. There’s also an interesting display on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The audio guide in English is essential, as all displays are in Japanese. The museum’s café is a good place to have lunch.

Kaimei School

開明学校, Kaimei Gakkō • 3-110 Uno-machi • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥500 (also includes entry to the Uwa Folkcraft Museum) • 089 462 4292 • The museum is a 5min walk northeast of Uno-machi Station

Uwa-chō’s street of well-preserved, white-walled houses is known as Naka-chō, features several buildings dating from the Edo period, most of which have been very well maintained. Along here is the Kaimei School, which is a lovely example of a Meiji-period school and one of the oldest remaining of its kind in western Japan. Founded in 1882, the architectural style is considered to be Western-influenced. Inside, there’s a fascinating collection of antique textbooks and educational posters.

Uwa Folkcraft Museum

宇和町民具館, Uwa-chō Mingu-kan • 3-106 Uno-machi • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥200 (or ¥500 combined ticket with Kaimei School) • 089 362 1334 • The museum is a 5min walk northeast of Uno-machi Station

Alamy

SANUKI UDON

Opposite the old schoolhouse is the Uwa Folkcraft Museum, which has well-organized seasonal exhibitions containing a wide range of interesting items that were once in daily use in the town. You can expect to see bamboo swords and deer costumes used in local festivals, as well as old record players and dioramas depicting life during the Edo period.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION UWA-CHŌ

By train Limited express trains run from Uwajima to Uno-machi Station (卯之町) in Uwa-chō (hourly; 20min).

Tourist information You can pick up a simple map and guide to the town’s sites in English from the Uwa Folkcraft Museum.

Ōzu

大洲

Further north along the Yosan Line from Uwa-chō, the train hits the coast at Yawatahama (八幡浜) before turning inland to reach ŌZU on the banks of the Hiji-kawa. Although the town’s billing as a mini-Kyoto is certainly exaggerated, Ōzu is still a charming and attractive place, with paved streets and well-preserved Edo- and Meiji-era houses. From June 1 to September 20, the river is the location for ukai, a unique summer activity involving fishing with cormorants, which you can watch for a fee (¥3000). For bookings, call Ōzu tourist office (see below).

Ōzu-jō

大洲城 • 903 Ōzu • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥550, or ¥880 with entry to Garyū Sansō • 089 324 1146, ozucastle.jp

The picturesque Ōzu-jō is in a commanding position overlooking the town and river. Destroyed in 1888, the four-storey donjon of this fortress was rebuilt in 2004 to its original sixteenth-century specifications. The grounds are a riot of pink in cherry-blossom season, and locals flock here for picnics, day and night.

Garyū Sansō

臥龍山荘 • 411-2 Ōzu • Villa Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥550, or ¥880 with entry to Ōzu-jō • Teahouse April–July Sept & Oct Sun 9.15am–3.30pm • ¥400 • 089 324 3759, garyusanso.jp

Along the river from Ōzu-jō, on the other side of town, is the Garyū Sansō, a beautiful example of a traditional villa built in the sukiya kenchiku architectural style with a triangular, thatched roof. Exquisitely detailed woodcarvings and fixtures inside are matched by a lovely moss-and-stone garden outside, leading to a teahouse and a separate moon-viewing platform overlooking the river.

Ōzu Akarenga-kan

おおず赤煉瓦館 • 60 Ōzu • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 089 324 1281

Worth a look before leaving the town is the gallery, gift shop and café in the Ōzu Akarenga-kan, a handsome red-brick complex dating from 1901 and once used as a bank. The architectural style is significant because it combines Western-style brickwork with a Japanese-style tiled roof. Inside, the high ceilings and large windows contrast markedly with the traditional Japanese interiors.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ŌZU

By train Ōzu is 40min by express train from either Uwajima or Mastuyama. The town’s train station, Iyo Ōzu (伊予大洲), is around 2km north of the Hiji-kawa and the castle.

By ferry At Yawatahama (八幡浜), there are ferries ( uwajimaunyu.co.jp/english) to Beppu (6 daily; 2hr 50min) and Usuki in Kyūshū (7 daily; 2hr 25min).

Tourist information There’s a tourist information centre (daily 9am–6.30pm; 089 357 9161) in Iyo Ōzu Station. You can pick up an excellent local guide and map in English from here, as well as rent bicycles (¥400/2hr).

Uchiko

内子

A trip to Ōzu can easily be combined with a visit to the appealing small town of UCHIKO, about 15km northeast. Uchiko was once an important centre for the production of Japanese wax (moku-rō), made from the crushed berries of the sumac tree. The wax is still used in candles, polishes, crayons, cosmetics, food and even computer disks. The wealth generated by the industry has left Uchiko with many fine houses preserved in the town’s picturesque Yōkaichi (八日市) district, where craftsmen can still be seen making candles by hand. Recently, Uchiko has become a popular destination for both domestic and international visitors, mainly due to its handsome streetscapes that are reminiscent of old Japan.

Uchiko-za

内子座 • 2102 Uchiko • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥400 (or ¥900 combined ticket for all museums in town) • 089 344 2840

The best place to start your tour of Uchiko – which is easily explored on foot – is at the handsomely restored kabuki theatre Uchiko-za, which lies around 500m northeast of the train station. Performances are held once or twice a week at the theatre, which was built in 1916 to celebrate the accession of the Emperor Taishō; during the day, you can wander around the auditorium and stage.

Museum of Commercial and Domestic Life

商いと暮らし博物館, Akinai-to-Kurashi Hakubutsukan • 1938 Uchiko • Daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥200 (or ¥900 combined ticket for all museums in town) • 089 344 5220

The Museum of Commercial and Domestic Life is set in a charming converted merchant’s house, and has mechanical wax dummies that help show the daily life of a shopkeeper during the Taishō era (1912–26). The mannequins, electronically activated to start speaking (in Japanese), include a moaning pharmacist in the upstairs storeroom. Make sure to pick up an English pamphlet at the door.

Takahashi Residence

高橋邸, Takahashi-bei • 2403 Uchiko • Daily (except Tues) 9am–4.30pm • Free • 089 344 2354

If you’re heading northwest uphill into the Yōkaichi district, take a detour towards the Oda-gawa to admire the venerable Takahashi Residence, the birthplace of Takahashi Ryūtarō, a politician and founder of the Asahi Beer company. The elegant, two-storey building has castle-like stone walls as well as a lovely garden, which you can admire from the café inside.

Ōmura and Hon-Haga Residences

大村家, Ōmura-ke • 本芳我家, Hon-Haga-ke • South end of Yōkaichi historical district • Free • Both residences can only be viewed from outside, but part of the garden of the Hon-Haga Residence can be entered (daily 9am–4.30pm)

The two most picturesque buildings in town are the Ōmura Residence, the Edo-era home of a dye-house merchant, and the neighbouring Hon-Haga Residence, home of the primary family behind Uchiko’s wax industry. The Hon-Haga Residence is more elaborate than the other houses in the district, with ornate gables, a facade decorated with intricate plaster sculptures, and a small, attractive garden.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION UCHIKO

By train Uchiko is 10min by express train north along the Yosan Line from Ōzu and is served by fast trains from Matsuyama (25min) and Uwajima (1hr).

By bus Several buses run daily from Matsuyama (1hr), Ōzu (20min) and Uwajima (50min), stopping 200m to the east of Yōkaichi.

Tourist information There’s a tourist information centre next to the train station (daily 9am–5pm; 089 343 1450) with English maps and pamphlets. The Uchiko Visitor Centre (9am–5.30pm, Oct–March till 4.30pm, closed Thurs; 089 344 3790, we-love-uchiko.jp) is staffed by English speakers and has more detailed information on the town.

GETTING AROUND

By bike Bicycle rental is available at the tourist centre next to the train station (¥500/3hr or ¥700/day).

By bus The Chagamaru Retro Bus shuttles back and forth from the station to the north end of Yōkaichi, passing all the sights on the way (Fri–Sun; ¥370 per trip).

Matsuyama and around

松山

Historic MATSUYAMA is Shikoku’s largest city – with a population of over 500,000 – and has a fascinating cultural heritage. Despite its size, Matsuyama is a convivial, friendly place that’s easy to get around, thanks to a tram network that bestows an old-fashioned grace to a city that also proudly promotes its literary connections. Most points of interest are centred on the impressive castle, Matsuyama-jō, and the popular hot-spring suburb of Dōgo, 2km east of the centre, which is home to one of Japan’s most magnificent bathhouses.

Local warlords from the Kono clan built a fortress in Dōgo in the fourteenth century, while Matsuyama was created in 1602 by daimyō Katō Yoshiaki when he built his castle on Katsu-yama. In 1635, the Matsudaira clan took charge of the castle and ruled the area until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Rebuilt following the drubbing it received during World War II, this largely modern city is now the capital of Ehime-ken and has expanded to encompass the once separately administered Dōgo.

You can see Matsuyama’s main sights in a day, but it’s better to give yourself an extra day or two to savour the relaxed mood induced by Dōgo’s onsen. The city is also a good base for day-trips to Uchiko, Ōzu and Uwajima.

Matsuyama-jō

松山城 • 1 Marunochi • Daily 9am–4.30pm; Jan & Dec till 4pm; Aug till 5pm • ¥520; ropeway and chairlift ¥270 each way, ¥520 return • 089 921 4873, matsuyamajo.jp

The 132m-high Katsu-yama dominates the centre of Matsuyama, and on its summit stands the city’s prime attraction, Matsuyama-jō. Warlord Katō Yoshiaki began building his fortress in 1602, but by the time it was finished, 26 years later, he had moved to Aizu in Tōhoku. As with many of the Japanese castles that are hailed as “original”, this one has gone through several incarnations throughout its lengthy lifetime. The main five-storey donjon was destroyed by lightning on New Year’s Day in 1784 and rebuilt two storeys shorter in 1820 – the three lesser donjons are all modern-day reconstructions. Despite this, the castle is one of Japan’s more impressive fortresses, and its location certainly provides commanding views right across the city and the shimmering Seto Inland Sea.

MASAOKA SHIKI

Matsuyama heavily promotes its Japanese literary connections, and one of the most prominent is with the poet Masaoka Shiki, a rather tragic figure who died at 35 from tuberculosis. He took his pen name, Shiki, from that of a bird, which – according to legend – coughs blood as it sings. His life story can be traced at the Shiki Kinen Museum in Dōgo and there are two houses connected with the poet preserved as tourist attractions in Matsuyama itself, including the villa he shared for a short period with Sōseki Natsume, one of Japan’s most famous authors, whose novel Botchan draws on his experiences as a young teacher working in Matsuyama in 1895.

Masaoka made his reputation by encouraging reforms to the then hidebound traditional poetic form haiku, which comprises just three lines of five, seven and five syllables and has a subject matter traditionally connected with the seasons. Famously criticizing the master of the genre, Bashō, Masaoka advocated that poets be allowed to use whatever words they wanted for haiku, on any subject matter, while striving to be more reflective of real life. Encapsulating his approach is one of his most famous poems: “Kaki kueba kane-ga narunari Hōryū-ji” (“I was eating a persimmon. Then, the bell of Hōryū-ji temple echoed far and wide”).

Masaoka is also one of the principal characters in Saka no Ue no Kumo (Clouds Over the Hill) by Shiba Ryōtarō, a bestseller about Japan’s destruction of the Baltic fleet during the Russo-Japanese War, and Japan’s modernization. Saka no Ue no Kumo was filmed as an NHK TV drama series, and has been translated into English. The novel and its heroes are celebrated at the modern Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum.

You can get up to the castle using the ropeway or rickety chairlift on the eastern flank of the hill. There are also several steep walking routes – the main one starts just beside the ropeway, at the steps up to Shinonome-jinja (東雲神社), also on Katsuyama’s east side. This picturesque shrine is famous for its Takigi festival, held every April, when nō plays are performed by the light of flaming torches. Other routes run up the western side of the hill, and can be combined with a visit to the Ninomaru Shiseki Teien.

Whichever route you take, you’ll end up at the Tonashi-mon gateway to the castle, through which you emerge onto a long plateau surrounded by walls and turrets and planted with blossom trees. Inside the main donjon, climb up to the top floor for the view and, on the way back down, pass through the museum, which has displays of calligraphy, old maps, samurai armour and some gorgeously painted screens.

Ninomaru Shiseki Teien

二之丸史跡庭園 • 5 Marunouchi • Daily 9am–5pm; Jan & Dec till 4.30pm; Aug till 5.30pm • ¥200 • 089 921 2000

On the western side of the castle slope of Matsuyama-jō are the tranquil gardens of the Ninomaru Shiseki Teien. The gardens, which look a bit like a giant geometry puzzle, are built on the site of the Ninomaru, the outer citadel of the castle. The pools and pathways at the front represent the floor plan of the former structure, which succumbed to fire in 1872. To the rear, as the grounds climb Katsu-yama, the design becomes more fluid, and there are rockeries, a waterfall and two teahouses, one of which serves tea and wagashi (a sweet cake) for ¥300.

Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum

坂の上の雲ミュージアム • 3-20 Ichiban-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • ¥400; English audio guide ¥100 • 089 915 2600, www.sakanouenokumomuseum.jp

At the base of the southern side of the castle hill is the modern Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum, devoted to the famous novel by Shiba Ryōtarō. The museum is housed in a highly contemporary polished concrete-and-glass building designed by Andō Tadao. The displays, which focus on many fascinating aspects of the Meiji period and Shiba’s novel, are all in Japanese. Thankfully, there is a superb audio guide in English, which takes you through the museum’s exhibition rooms, making this well worth a visit.

Bansui-sō

萬翠荘 • 3-3-7 Ichiban-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • Ground floor free, first floor ¥300 • 089 921 3711, bansuisou.org

The Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum contrasts nicely with the striking French-style villa, Bansui-sō, a little further up Katsu-yama. Built in 1922 for Count Sadakoto Hisamatsu, a descendant of the lord of the Iyo-Matsuyama Domain, the villa hosts art exhibitions and concerts on the ground floor and the so-called Haiku Hall of Fame on the first floor. It’s the exterior of the building that’s most impressive, though, particularly the juxtaposition of trees pruned like poodles and the wild palms in the forecourt.

Shiki-dō

子規堂 • 16-3 Suehiro-machi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥50 • 089 945 0400

South of the Iyo Tetsudō rail line is the Shiki-dō, an evocative re-creation of the poet Masaoka Shiki’s childhood home, sandwiched between his family’s local temple, Shoju-ji, and the cemetery, where he has a memorial. Inside the tiny one-storey house are some of his personal effects, his writing desk and examples of his calligraphy. It’s rather dusty in places but, thanks to the photographs and other memorabilia, it’s easy to imagine something of the life of the nineteenth-century poet.

Raikō-ji

来迎寺 • 1-525 Miyuki • Daily dawn–dusk • Free • Raiko-ji is a 15min walk northeast of the Takasago-chō tram stop

In the Yamagoe district are a number of temples whose purpose it was to defend the area immediately to the north of the castle. The most worthy of a visit is Raikō-ji, originally located in Dōgo but reconstructed in its present location in the eighteenth century.

Russian Cemetery

ロシア人の墓地, Roshia-jin no Bochi • 1 Goko • Daily dawn–dusk

Beside Raikō-ji, up a steep incline, is Matsuyama’s Russian Cemetery. Some six thousand Russian prisoners were interned at the POW camp here during the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–5. The prisoners – being something of a novelty and having little chance of escaping back to Russia – were allowed a fair amount of freedom. Ninety-eight prisoners died from natural causes during their imprisonment, and their graves are still kept immaculate, with fresh flowers regularly placed in front of each of the crosses. An impressive commemorative bust of a fierce-looking, bearded Russian officer stands watch at the entrance to the cemetery.

Dōgo

道後 • 25min by tram from JR Matsuyama Station

Like many other places in Matsuyama, DŌGO onsen has a literary history, and a reputation for high-quality hot-spring water. Like many other onsen towns in Japan, it has a seedy side, as well as an abundance of somewhat tacky souvenir shops. However, Dōgo’s bathtime delights more than make up for this. Once you’ve sampled the onsen, there are also a couple of interesting museums to explore, along with the appealing Isaniwa-jinja and over-the-top Ishite-ji.

Dōgo Onsen Honkan

道後温泉本館 • 5-6 Dōgo Yuno-machi • Kami-no-yu bath (神の湯) Daily 6am–10.30pm (9pm for lounge) • ¥420 (bath only); ¥840 (bath & 2nd-floor lounge) • Tama-no-yu bath (霊の湯) Daily 6am–9.30pm • ¥1250 (bath & 2nd-floor lounge) • Private room Daily 6am–8.40pm • ¥1550 (Tama-no-yu bath & 3rd-floor tatami room) • Yūshinden (又新殿) Daily 6am–9pm • ¥260; the extra fee is waived if you’ve opted for one of the Tama-no-yu bath courses • 089 932 1126, dogo.jp/en

The cheapest way to soak at Dōgo Onsen Honkan is to use the rather raucous Kami-no-yu, or “Hot Water of the Gods”, a section with two identical baths, decorated with porcelain heron mosaics, on each side of the changing rooms. At the time of writing, the rest of the building, including the other baths, lounges and rooms mentioned below, was undergoing conservation repair works. When these are complete, for an extra fee you will be able to relax afterwards in the second-floor public room, where you’ll be served green tea and rice crackers, and you also get to borrow a cotton yukata robe. The next level up is the Tama-no-yu or “Hot Water of the Spirits”, a more exclusive and luxurious bath at the back of the complex. There’s a view of a small garden from the changing room, and, once the baths are back in use again, you’ll be able to relax afterwards in a separate section on the second floor. The first-class experience recommended by the title character of Natsume Sōseki’s novel Botchan entitles you to a private room on the third floor, where you’ll be offered green tea and three-coloured dango (sweet rice-dough balls on a stick) after your dip.

Once the renovation project is finished, even if you opt for the no-frills bath, the staff will allow you to explore the rest of the building. On the second floor, look out for a display of tea-ceremony items and old calligraphy scrolls to the side of the large tatami resting-room with carved wooden verandas. On the third floor, the corner room is believed to have been used by Sōseki and has a small exhibition (all in Japanese) of items related to Botchan and its creator.

You’ll need to return to the second floor to gain entrance to the Yūshinden, which has been empty since 1950 (it was only ever used ten times), but the imperial apartments, with their silver- and gilt-coated screens and ornamental gardens, have been preserved. Following restoration works, you’ll be guided around by one of the no-nonsense female attendants who’ll explain, in Japanese, how the rooms were specially constructed to foil any would-be assassins.

Asuka-no-yu

道後温泉別館 飛鳥乃湯泉 • 19-22 Dōgo Yuno-machi • Baths Daily 6am–10.30pm (9pm for lounge) • ¥610 (bath only); ¥1280 (bath & 2nd-floor lounge) • Private Room Daily 6am–9pm • ¥1690 • 089 932 1126, dogo.jp/en/asuka

For the chance to take a dip in an open-air bath, you can visit the Asakua-no-yu, an annex of the Dōgo Onsen Honkan, which was built in 2017 in the architectural style of the Asuka period (538–710 AD) and blends local craftwork with modern art. There are indoor baths here as well as several private rooms, one of which is a replica of the Yūshinden in Dōgo Onsen Honkan, in which you can bathe wearing a traditional yūcho robe.

Tsubaki-no-yu

椿の湯 • 19-22 Dōgo Yuno-machi • Daily 6.30am–10.30pm • ¥400 • 089 935 6586

DŌGO ONSEN’S CULTURAL HERITAGE

“If you went jōtō (first class), for only 8 sen they lent you a bathrobe, an attendant washed you, and a girl served you tea in one of those elegant, shallow cups that they use in the tea ceremony. I always went jōtō”.

Botchan by Sōseki Natsume, 1906

It may no longer be so cheap, nor do the attendants scrub your back, but a bath at the grand Dōgo Onsen Honkan is still a treat, as Sōseki lovingly described in his classic novel, set in Matsuyama in the early twentieth century. This is purportedly the oldest hot-spring resort in Japan, and is mentioned in the 1300-year-old history book the Nihon Shoki. According to legend, a white heron dipped its injured leg into the hot water gushing out of the rocks here and found that it had healing properties. By the sixth century, the onsen’s fame reached the ears of Prince Shotoku, and his royal patronage cemented its reputation. By the seventeenth century, the local daimyō Matsudaira Sadayuki had segregated the baths into those for monks and samurai, and those for lower-class merchants and craftsmen. He also introduced women-only baths and created facilities for animals to soak away their ills (the animal baths were only closed in 1966).

The present architectural extravaganza was built in 1894, and the heron, which has become the symbol of the baths, is commemorated in a statue atop the three-storey building’s ornate roof. Inside, there are two types of bath, plus the Yūshinden, a special bath built in 1899 for the Imperial family, but now drained of water.

A minute’s walk along the arcade from the Dōgo Onsen Honkan is the separate modern bathhouse Tsubaki-no-yu, meaning “Hot Water of Camellia”. The granite bath here is much larger than those at the Honkan and uses water from the same hot-spring source. You won’t find so many tourists here – rather, elderly locals who take their bathing seriously.

Shiki Kinen Museum

子規記念博物館, Shiki Kinen Hakubutsukan • 1-30 Dōgo-kōen • Tues–Sun 9am–5.30pm; Nov–April till 4.30pm • ¥400, English audio guide ¥100 • 089 931 5566, sikihaku.lesp.co.jp • Contact in advance to organize English-language tour

In the eastern corner of Dōgo-kōen is the Shiki Kinen Museum, which houses some rather dry displays telling the life story of Masaoka Shiki and setting his literature in its cultural context. The displays have English translations, and it’s also possible to book an English-language tour that provides more insight into Shiki’s life. The park itself is also worth visiting for its attractive river vista lined with cherry trees, as well as its historical significance – it is the former site of Yuzuki-jō castle and contains a number of historical monuments.

Giyaman Glass Museum

瓶泥舎びいどろぎやまんガラス美術館, Bindeisha Biidoro Giyaman Garasu Bijutsukan • 7-21 Dōgo Midoridai • Mon & Thurs–Sun 10am–4.30pm • ¥1100 • 089 922 3771, bindeisha.co.jp • All visits are by reservation only; contact the museum in advance

Near the Sen Guesthouse and housed in a private home away from the bustle of downtown Dōgo is the charming Giyaman Glass Museum. There are exquisite Edo-, Meiji- and Taishō-period pieces of glass from the owner’s private collection, and the designs and colours are surprisingly modern. It’s remarkable that so many fragile objects, such as a set of small glass plates made in 1788, have survived more than two hundred years of earthquakes and war. Don’t be put off by the museum manager escorting you through the exhibition rooms – it’s because of the fragile nature of the objects on display.

Ishite-ji

石手寺 • 2-29-21 Ishite • Temple Daily 24hr • Free • Museum Daily 8am–5pm • ¥200 • Walk for 15min east of the Dōgo tram terminus along the main road, or hop on the #8 or #52 bus (¥160) to Oku Dōgo, which will drop you outside the temple gate • 089 977 0870

Eight of the 88 temples on Shikoku’s sacred circuit are in Matsuyama, but the most famous – and without a doubt the most unusual – is the 51st, Ishite-ji. Unlike the pilgrimage’s other 87 temples, Ishite-ji has used its accumulated wealth to branch out into surreal forms of religious expression. Tucked away behind the main temple buildings are dimly lit tunnels lined with hundreds of Buddhas and other icons. Condensation drips heavily from the tunnel ceiling if it’s been raining, adding to the slightly foreboding atmosphere. Further on, in the tunnel that heads upwards, flashing fairy and strobe lights (activated as you approach) alongside the piped sound of a monk wailing mantras create the impression that you’ve stumbled into an esoteric rave.

The main tunnel emerges from behind a rock on the hill above the temple, close to the crumbling entrance to a park containing more bizarre statues, at the centre of which is a squat, golden-domed 3D mandala. Enter this dimly lit, circular hall and you’ll be confronted by a two-hundred-strong congregation of wooden jizō, between 1m and 3m high, carved with Buddhist sexual symbols and arranged in tiered circles. Oddly, while the main temple is usually heaving with pilgrims, very few bother to head up to the park, making it a nice place to relax for a few minutes and take in your unusual surroundings. Climbing up the slope from the mandala will lead to a large graveyard and, on the summit of the adjoining hill, the looming 160m-tall statue of Buddhist saint Kōbō Daishi, founder of Shikoku’s pilgrim trail.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MATSUYAMA

By plane Matsuyama’s airport ( 089 972 5600, matsuyama-airport.co.jp) lies 6km west of the centre; bus #52 from here takes about 15min to reach JR Matsuyama Station (¥320), and there’s also a more comfortable limousine bus to JR Matsuyama Station (¥470), Matsuyama-shi Station (20min; ¥560), which continues on to Dōgo (40min; ¥620). A taxi from the airport to the centre of town costs around ¥2600.

Destinations Chubu (3 daily; 1hr); Fukuoka (4 daily; 50min); Itami (12 daily; 50min); Kagoshima (daily; 1hr); Kansai (daily; 55min); Naha (daily; 1hr 40min); Sapporo (daily; 2hr 10min); Tokyo Haneda (12 daily; 1hr 20min); Tokyo Narita (1–3 daily; 1hr 30min).

By train Trains pull in at the JR Matsuyama Station, just west of the city centre, from where it’s roughly a 10min walk to the castle.

Destinations Okayama (hourly; 2hr 45min); Takamatsu (hourly; 2hr 25min); Uwajima (hourly; 1hr 25min).

By bus Buses pull in beside Matsuyama-shi Station.

Destinations Kōbe (11 daily; 4hr 50min); Kōchi (5 daily; 2hr 35min); Kyoto (2 daily; 5hr 30min–7hr); Nagoya (daily; 10hr 30min); Okayama (6 daily; 3hr 20min); Osaka (15 daily; 5hr 30min–7hr); Takamatsu (11 daily; 2hr 40min); Tokyo (2 daily; 12hr); Tokushima (7 daily; 3hr 20min).

By ferry and hydrofoil Setonaikai Kisen ( setonaikaikisen.co.jp), Matsuyama Kokura ( matsuyama-kokuraferry.co.jp) and Hoyo ( boyoferry.co.jp) run ferries from several ports in western Honshū and Kyūshū to Takahama, around 10km north of Matsuyama. The terminus of the Iyo Tetsu train line (Takahama Station) is within walking distance of the port; it’s a 20min journey (¥410) from here into Matsuyama-shi Station. For ferries to Beppu and Oita, you’ll need to take a train (45min by limited express) to Yawatahama.

Destinations Hiroshima (hydrofoil: 12 daily; 1hr 10min; ferry: 10 daily; 2hr 40min); Kita-kyushu (daily; 7hr); Yanai (10–13 daily; 2hr 25min).

GETTING AROUND

By tram Matsuyama’s city centre is easily covered on foot, but to travel between here and Dōgo you’ll most likely need to use the tram network. There are five tram routes: two loop lines and three other routes, with trams #3 and #5 running through the city centre at Ichiban-chō, past the castle and ending at the delightfully old-fashioned Dōgo terminal. Fares are a flat ¥160 and must be paid to the driver on leaving the tram. A one-day ticket, offering unlimited travel on the trams and bought on board, can be good value at ¥700. A couple of special tram services are pulled by the Botchan Ressha, designed like the steam trains that ran through the city during the Meiji era; a single trip on these costs ¥800, or an extra ¥300 for one-day ticket holders.

By bus The regular buses from the station are most useful for reaching further-flung areas of the city, such as the airport and Oku Dōgo (for Ishite-ji).

By car There are several car-rental offices near JR Matsuyama Station, including Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 089 933 4066, nrgroup-global.com/en).

By bike Apart from the castle hill, Matsuyama is reasonably flat, so it’s a good city to cycle around. Bicycles can be rented from the cycle port in front of the station, the castle or Dōgo Station (¥300/day).

INFORMATION

MATSUYAMA

EPIC A couple of minutes’ walk from the Minami-machi tram stop, the Ehime Prefecture International Centre (Mon–Sat 8.30am–5pm; 089 917 5678, epic.or.jp) has a small library of English-language books, free wi-fi and bicycle rental, and can arrange goodwill guides to show you around the city. It also hosts classes on Japanese traditional arts.

Matsuyama International Centre Located on the ground floor of COMS, at 6-4-20 Sanbanchō, the Matsuyama International Centre (Tues–Sun 9am–5.30pm; 089 943 2025) is a more central option for free volunteer guides.

DŌGO

Dōgo Tourist Information Office Across the road from the Dōgo tram terminus, the Dōgo tourist information office (daily 8am–9pm, Oct–March till 8pm; 089 921 3708) can provide English maps and leaflets, as well as bicycle rental (¥300/day).

ACCOMMODATION MAP AND THIS MAP

With its baths and great range of accommodation, the most pleasant place to stay in Matsuyama is Dōgo. If you want to be based more centrally, you’ll find plenty of cheap business hotels around the JR station as well as in the city centre.

MATSUYAMA

Abis Inn アビスイン 2-3-3 Katsuyamachō 089 998 6000, abis.ne.jp/dogo/index.html. This standard business hotel is well positioned at the end of Ichiban-chō. Rooms are well maintained, and singles (¥5180) are good value. Rates include a light breakfast. ¥7980

ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel Matsuyama ANAクラウンプラザホテル松山 3-2-1 Ichiban-chō 089 933 5511, anahotelmatsuyama.com. This smart hotel in the city centre, now under the Crown Plaza umbrella, has a range of stylish rooms, several restaurants and a shopping arcade. Rates for the less flash rooms in the annex are substantially cheaper. ¥10,800

Check Inn Matsuyama チェックイン松山 2-7-3 Sanbanchō 089 998 7000, checkin.co.jp/matsuyama. Emerald-green leather sofas, a Rococo-style grandfather clock and chandeliers in the lobby, plus even more chandeliers in the rooms, give this comfortable, well-priced business hotel in the centre of the city more than a touch of elegance. The rooftop onsen baths are also a plus. Breakfast costs ¥800 extra. ¥7510

International Hotel Matsuyama 国際ホテル松山 1-13 Ichiban-chō 089 932 5111, kokusai-h.jp. Good-value mid-range hotel near the castle and shopping district, with comfortably furnished rooms and some striking interior design in its public areas and restaurants. The retro-to-the-max top-floor Chinese restaurant has to be seen to be believed. ¥12,400

HOTEL MYSTAYS Matsuyama ホテルJALシティ松山 1-10-10 Ōtemachi 089 913 2580, mystays.com. This hotel is surprisingly good value for the price and location. Rooms are super-clean, comfortable and well appointed, and some have castle views. Staff are helpful and attentive, and there’s both an Italian and Japanese restaurant in house. ¥10,400

DŌGO

Hotel Dōgo Yaya 道後ややホテル 6-1 Dōgo Tako-chō 089 907 1181, yayahotel.jp. Elegant hotel decorated in a modern style with tatami and wood. Rooms are chic and comfortable. The in-house buffet restaurant serves up healthy vegetable and seafood dishes. Rates include breakfast. ¥12,750

Dōgo Yumekura 道後夢蔵 4-5 Yugetsu-chō 089 931 1180, yume-kura.jp. This fancy ryokan is just behind the Honkan. The rooms are modern and luxurious with their own wooden bathtubs and deluxe amenities. The food is beautifully presented kaiseki-ryori, served in your room. ¥32,000

Yamatoya Honten 大和屋本店 20-8 Dōgo Yunomachi 089 935 8880, yamatoyahonten.com. Hotels with their own nō stage are few and far between, but not only does the Yamatoya Honten have one, it also stages two short nightly performances. The tatami rooms are well up to deluxe standard, but there are also more modest, slightly dated Western-style single rooms. Finish the evening with a dip in the basement rotemburo. ¥18,200

EATING MAP AND THIS MAP

As befits a big city, Matsuyama has a wide range of restaurants and cafés. Local specialities include the sponge roly-poly cake called taruto (タルト), inspired by a Portuguese confection introduced to Japan 350 years ago through the port of Nagasaki; the three-coloured rice dumplings on sticks called Botchan dango, after the character’s favourite sweet; and goshiki sōmen, thin noodles made in five colours.

MATSUYAMA

Café Marinecco カフェマリネコ 3-1-3 Ōkaidō 089 935 5896. This is a convivial café-cum-wine bar with stylish wooden interiors and menus handwritten on chalkboards. It has a good selection of dishes such as pasta (from ¥700) and pizza (¥1000), while the outdoor tables are the perfect place for watching the world go by with a pint of Guinness or Kilkenny. Daily 5pm–2am.

Charlie’s Vegetable チャーリーズ・ベジタブル 2-3-16 Ōkaidō 089 915 6110, charlies-vegetable.com. This stylish restaurant is entirely devoted to vegetarian cuisine. The first floor is the buffet area, where you can choose from a huge array of fresh salads, soups, curries and even vegetable desserts. Table seating is upstairs. Lunch from ¥1250 and dinner from ¥1750. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–10pm.

Everest Food エベレスト・フード 2-2-7 Ōkaidō 089 945 7577. This is a popular Indian and Nepali restaurant serving twenty different types of curry (from ¥600), plus tandoori mixed grills (¥1600), alongside Indian and Nepali beers. The generous set meals (¥1580 for one curry main, ¥1850 for two) include all-you-can-eat naan breads. Daily 11am–10.30pm.

Fujikomaikeru 不二子マイケル 2-4-9 Niban-chō 089 943 0600. Wildly popular izakaya with counter seating and small tatami booths. The menu is mostly fish and seafood dishes – kamameshi no dashi kake (¥450), a rice and fish stew cooked in an iron pot, is highly recommended. Daily 5pm–1am, Fri & Sat till 3am.

Kawasemi 川瀬見 2-5-6 Niban-chō 089 933 9697, kawasemi.ecnet.jp. The portions in this stylish kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) restaurant are small, but your taste buds will be subtly challenged. Look for the word “club” in English on the mauve sign and go up to the second floor. You can get a six- (lunch) or seven- (dinner) course meal from ¥1500/7500. Daily noon–2pm & 5–10pm.

Kiyomaru 清まる 4-6 Hanazono-chō 089 948 9588, facebook.com/tonkatsupafe. Tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants are a dime a dozen in Japan, but Kiyomaru has reinvented the old classic by creating a range of tonkatsu desserts. The restaurant’s “abnormal menu” lists bizarre hybrids, such as sweet chocolate katsu with spicy mayonnaise and custard cheese katsu (¥670 small; ¥1100 large), but its signature dish is the tonkatsu parfait (¥880) where pork cutlets are served with green tea ice cream and fresh fruit. Oh, and they have regular tonkatsu-teishoku sets for those who just want to eat something normal. Daily 11am–9pm, Thurs from 9am.

Kyoudoryourigo Shiki 郷土料理 五志喜 本店 3-5-4 Sanban-chō 089 933 3838. This is a great place to sample somen, the five-coloured noodles, especially if you can afford to push the boat out for the sea bream somen (¥2200). In front of the restaurant is a shop where you can buy the noodles, packed as souvenir sets, for around ¥320. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–11pm.

Provence Dining プロヴァンス ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel Matsuyama, 3-2-1 Ichiban-chō 089 933 5511, anahotelmatsuyama.com. The best thing about the ANA’s top-floor restaurant is its grandstand view of Katsu-yama hill and the Bansui-sō villa, which is especially romantic when the buildings are lit up at night. The lunch buffet (¥2200) offers a selection of Mediterranean dishes. For dinner, steak courses start at ¥3100. Daily 6.30am–10am, 11.30am–2.30pm & 5.30–10pm.

Sova Sova ソバソバ 3-2-35 Ōkaidō 089 945 5252. Chic little café in an old shop, serving a range of simple dishes such as cold soba and tempura for under ¥1000. 11am–5pm, closed Wed.

DŌGO

Cha-Raku 茶楽 5-13 Yugetsu-chō 089 921 5388, yamadayamanju.jp/charaku. This elegant, modern tearoom serves a variety of traditional teas and their signature manju (baked rice flour cakes with sweet bean filling). A matcha and manju set is ¥900. Daily 10am–7pm.

Daikokuya 大黒屋 8-21 Dōgo Tako-chō 089 925 5005, daikokuya-udon.co.jp. A homely restaurant serving a couple of dozen tasty udon dishes (from ¥420), along with kamameshi, rice dishes cooked in a traditional iron pot (from ¥820). Reasonably priced set meals start at ¥1700. Daily 11am–9.30pm, closed first & third Wed of the month.

Dōgo no Machiya 道後の町家カフェ 14-26 Yunomachi 089 986 8886, dogonomachiya.com. Burger (¥540) and sandwich (¥460) café in a traditional house (split into smoking and non-smoking areas) with a lovely garden at the rear. Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–9pm, closed third Wed of the month.

Nikitatsu-an にきたつ庵 3-18 Dōgo Kitamachi 089 924 6617. This sake brewery and restaurant serves imaginative modern Japanese cooking alongside superb sake and beers; lunches start at ¥1510, dinners at ¥3240, and make sure you try the refreshing Dōgo Orange Ale, made using fruit from Ehime. There’s also an outdoor deck for balmy nights. Tues–Sun 11am–9.30pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP AND THIS MAP

The tight grid of streets between Niban-chō and Sanban-chō in Matsuyama heaves with bars and, in the summer, beer gardens appear on the roofs of several hotels, including the ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel Matsuyama.

MATSUYAMA

Flankey Kobayashi フランキー小林 2-3-10 Ichiban-chō. Drinks are a bargain at this lively standing bar popular with an international crowd, with draft beers and sake starting at ¥300 and ¥400 respectively. There’s also dirt-cheap but fairly decent food available, such as pasta and curry (from ¥300). Daily 5pm–3am.

Underground Café アンダーグラウンド・カフェ 3-3-6 Ōkaidō 089 998 7710. Down a side street on the way to the castle ropeway (look out for the large Union Jack flag hanging outside), this retro-chic café-bar has a very laidback vibe. The food is reasonable and there are occasional club events. Closed second and fourth Wed of every month. Daily 6pm–4am, Mon till 2am.

DŌGO

Wani to Sai Circus Bar ワニとサイ 1-39 Yunomachi 080 3319 2765, facebook.com/wanitosai. Quirky “artspace” bar and café run by a musician and puppeteer, serving Ehime sake (¥600) and red-hot Orochon ramen (¥800). It’s located up near the steps to Isaniwa-jinja. Mon, Tues & Thurs 7pm–2am, Wed noon–midnight, Fri–Sun noon–4pm & 7pm–2am.

ENTERTAINMENT

Cinema Lunatic シネマルナティック 2F Matsugeki Bldg 089 933 9240, bit.ly/cinemalunatic. This cinema shows independent foreign films.

Matsuyama Shimin Kaikan 松山市民会館 Horinouchi 089 931 8181, cul-spo.or.jp/mcph. Theatre, dance and orchestral performances are held at this venue, located in the southwest corner of Shiroyama-kōen, near the castle.

Prefectural Cultural Centre 県民文化会館 2-5-1 Dōgo-machi 089 923 5111, ecf.or.jp/himegin_hall. Orchestral and other music performances are held at this venue.

SHOPPING MAP

Local products that make good souvenirs include iyo-kasuri, an indigo-dyed cloth; hime temari, colourful thread-covered balls that bring good luck; and Tobe-yaki, patterned pottery distinguished by its robust feel and simple blue-and-white glaze. Check out Ōkaidō and Gintengai arcades for souvenir shops.

Ishibashi 石橋 3-3-4 Ōkaidō 089 931 0708. A cornucopia of interesting gifts and souvenirs, lots of it locally produced. Art and craft objects on sale here include paintings, ceramics and calligraphy. Daily 10am–6pm.

Tobe-yaki Kankō Centre 砥部町芸創作館 82 Gohonmatsu, Tobe 089 962 6145, www.town.tobe.ehime.jp/site/sousakukan. The centre of the local pottery industry is Tobe, 13km from Matsuyama. Take a #18 or #19 bus here from Matsuyama-shi Station (45min; ¥600) to visit the Tobe-yaki Kankō Centre, where you can watch pottery being made and make or decorate some pieces yourself (from ¥300). 9am–4pm, closed Thurs.

DIRECTORY

Hospital Ehime Prefectural Central Hospital, Ehime Kenritsu Chūō Byōin ( 089 947 1111), is in Kasuga-machi, south of Matsuyama-shi Station.

Police The main police station is at 2-13-2 Katsuyama-chō ( 089 941 0111)..

Post office Matsuyama’s main post office is at 3-5-2 Sanban-chō (daily 9am–7pm, Sat till 5pm, Sun till 12.30pm). There’s also a branch in Dōgo (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm), to the west of the shopping arcade. Both have ATMs that accept credit cards.

< Back to Shikoku

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BEPPU

Kyūshū

Fukuoka

Dazaifu

Arita

Takeo

Nagasaki

Shimabara Hantō

Kumamoto

Aso and the central highlands

Beppu and around

Miyazaki and around

Kirishima National Park

Kagoshima and around

Ibusuki and around

Chiran

Yakushima

Kyūshū

The spectacular array of natural attractions on Kyūshū makes this, Japan’s third-largest island, a feasible holiday destination on its own, providing a thrilling alternative to the regular Kantō and Kansai circuits. Here visitors can find themselves hiking the rim of the world’s largest caldera, taking a lonesome onsen dip in the forest, surfing Japan’s gnarliest waves, tracking down moss-coated cedar trees that predate Christianity or being showered with ash from a live volcano. It’s perfectly possible to just scoot round the main cities in a week, but you’ll need more like two to do the region justice, allowing time for the splendid mountainous interior and a boat trip out to Yakushima.

Closer to Korea than Tokyo, Kyūshū has long had close links with the Asian mainland, and its chief city, Fukuoka, is an important regional hub. An energetic city on the island’s heavily developed north coast, Fukuoka is worth a stop for its museums, modern architecture and vibrant nightlife. If you’ve only got a couple of days on Kyūshū, however, Nagasaki represents the best all-round destination. Though its prime draw is the A-Bomb museum and related sights, the city also has a picturesque harbour setting, a laidback, cosmopolitan air and a smattering of temples and historical museums. From here it’s a short hop east to Kumamoto, famous for its castle and landscaped garden, and the spluttering, smouldering caldera of Aso-san. This is great hiking country, while hot-spring enthusiasts will also be in their element – from Kurokawa Onsen’s delightful rotemburo to the bawdy pleasures of Beppu on the east coast. The mountain village of Takachiho requires a fair detour, but it’s worth it to see traditional dance performances depicting the antics of Japan’s ancient gods. The island’s southern districts contain more on the same theme – volcanoes, onsen and magnificent scenery. Highlights include Sakurajima, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, which looms over the city of Kagoshima, while the lush island of Yakushima, 60km off the southern tip of Kyūshū, sports towering, thousand-year-old cedar trees.

Brief history

The ancient chronicles state that Emperor Jimmu, Japan’s legendary first emperor, set out from southern Kyūshū to found the Japanese nation in 660 BC. Though the records are open to dispute, there’s evidence of human habitation on Kyūshū from before the tenth century BC, and by the beginning of the Yayoi period (300 BC–300 AD) the small kingdom of Na (as it was then known) was trading with China and Korea. Local merchants brought rice-farming and bronze-making techniques back to Japan, while in the twelfth century monks introduced Zen Buddhism to northern Kyūshū. Less welcome visitors arrived in 1274 and 1281 during the Mongol invasions under Kublai Khan. The first ended in a narrow escape when the Mongols withdrew, and the shogun ordered a protective wall to be built around Hakata Bay. By 1281 the Japanese were far better prepared, but their real saviour was a typhoon, subsequently dubbed kami kaze, or “wind of the gods”, which whipped up out of nowhere and scattered the Mongol fleet on the eve of their massed assault.

Three hundred years later, in 1543, the first Europeans to reach Japan pitched up on the island of Tanegashima, off southern Kyūshū. Finding an eager market for their guns among the local daimyō, the Portuguese sailors returned a few years later, bringing with them missionaries, among them the Jesuit priest Francis Xavier. Within fifty years the Catholic Church, now also represented by Spanish Franciscans and Dominicans, was claiming some 600,000 Christian converts. The centre of activity was Nagasaki, where Chinese, Dutch and British merchants swelled the throng. In the early 1600s, however, the government grew increasingly wary of the Europeans in general and Christians in particular. By fits and starts successive shoguns stamped down on the religion and restricted the movement of all foreigners, until eventually only two small communities of Dutch and Chinese merchants were left in Nagasaki.

Alamy

TAKACHIHO GORGE

Highlights

Fukuoka Slurp a bowl of ramen noodles at one of the open-air yatai stalls along the Tenjin River.

Arita Admire and shop for gorgeous porcelain, amazing feats of clay with a 400-year history.

Aso-san The peaks of this active volcano offer superb views across the largest caldera in the world.

Takachiho Go boating through a gorge on the emerald-green Gokase-gawa, then watch the gods cavort at a kagura performance in this beguiling mountain village.

Beppu Relaxing hot-spring resort where you can take a sand-bath or hike up to a couple of hidden onsen in the western hills.

Usuki Contemplate Japan’s finest stonecarved Buddhas, sitting serenely in their wooded valley for more than seven hundred years.

Yakushima Go hiking in the rainiest place in Japan, through lush green forests up to the ancient Yaku-sugi cedars, some of the oldest trees in the world.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

This period of isolation lasted until the mid-1850s, when Nagasaki and Kagoshima in particular found themselves at the forefront of the modernizing revolution that swept Japan after the Meiji Restoration. Indeed, it was the armies of the Satsuma and Chōshū clans, both from Kyūshū, which helped restore the emperor to the throne, and many members of the new government hailed from the island. In 1877, however, Kagoshima’s Saigō Takamori led a revolt against the Meiji government in what became known as the Satsuma Rebellion. Saigō’s army was routed, but he’s still something of a local hero in Kyūshū.

GETTING AROUND KYŪSHŪ

By train Fukuoka’s Hakata Station handles Shinkansen through-trains from Osaka to Kumamoto and Kagoshima, as well as firing its own trains out on the island line south. From Hakata, other JR Kyūshū trains fan out to all the major towns; the vehicles are a cut above Japan’s already sky-high standards. Frustratingly, the company’s English-language website ( www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english) gives timetables only for the major lines, and even then only for the main stations; to plug the gaps, head to hyperdia.com. JR Kyūshū offers its own three- and five-day rail passes (¥15,000 and ¥18,000) for travelling round the whole island, or just the north (including Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Aso, Yufuin and Beppu; ¥8500/10,000 for three/five days) or south (¥7000 for three days); none of these passes are valid on the very fastest of JR Kyūshū’s Shinkansen services, the Mizuho.

KYŪSHŪ’S TRAINS

Everyone knows that Japanese trains are among the best in the world – in Kyūshū, they go that little bit further. JR Kyūshū, the local division of Japan Rail, has won several international awards for the design of its trains, and some of them count as tourist sights in themselves. The bad news is that you’ll have to pay extra for a ticket on the more interesting services; the good news is that they’re all (bar the very fastest of the shinkansen) included on the island- and nation-wide rail passes. Such refinement has also come at a price: you may notice, on your way around the island, that some of the tracks are a little bumpy, the result of investment being directed to the trains themselves.

Kyūshū Shinkansen Completed in 2011, the Fukuoka–Kagoshima route is one of Japan’s newest high-speed lines. Though slower than many mainland trains, with a top speed of 260km/hr, they have had much attention lavished on their carriages – check out the stylish seat design, and the rope curtains on the way to the bathrooms.

Yufuin-no-mori A green beast reflecting the colour of the mountains it passes through on its Fukuoka-to-Yufuin route (continuing to Beppu once a day), this features cabin-like relaxation rooms whose large windows allow you to enjoy superb views over a coffee (seat reservations required).

Kamome and Sonic Heading from Fukuoka to Nagasaki and Ōita respectively, these passenger trains come with wonderfully comfy seating. If riding the Kamome, check out the backlit ink-brush paintings in between carriages – the only time you’ll ever want to take a picture of a train’s toilet area.

Huis ten Bosch Linking the eponymous sight to Fukuoka, this train’s carriages have been designed to an appropriately European template.

Aso Boy! Rather like a rolling amusement park, this train features a toy box and wooden ball pool, space-age white seating in the family car and a cartoon-meets-hotel-lobby lounge car. The Kumamoto–Aso tracks are currently under long-term repair, so Aso Boy pops up on various other lines around the island (seat reservations required).

Ibusuki-no-tamatebako If you’re heading from Kagoshima to Ibusuki, adjust your schedule to ride this train, which features ocean-facing seats and a pine-lined interior (seat reservations required).

By bus In the central uplands and southern Kyūshū, you’ll need to supplement the trains with local buses. If you’re on a whistle-stop tour, you might want to consider one of the SunQ bus passes ( www.sunqpass.jp/english), which offer unlimited travel on most highway buses and local services throughout Kyūshū (¥11,000/14,000 for three/four consecutive days) or just the north/south (¥9000/8000 for three consecutive days). Not all bus companies are covered, however, nor are some of the fastest express services between cities. For English-language timetables on the main lines, go to atbus-de.com.

By car For exploring the more remote areas, car rental is an excellent option; there are outlets in almost every town and in all the main tourist areas.

Fukuoka

福岡

The country’s sixth-largest city, FUKUOKA (“Happy Hills”) is one of the most likeable places in Japan – indeed, despite the fact that it’s not exactly a household name abroad, it regularly pops up on global best-places-to-live lists. While it boasts few actual sights, there’s a certain Kyūshū-style joie de vivre here, best exemplified at the umpteen rustic street-side yatai, where locals slurp happily away on their ramen while knocking back beer, sake or whatever takes their fancy. Until recently, the city was an industrial nonentity, notable only for its transport connections to Korea and the rest of the island, but its renaissance has been remarkable. Visit today and you’ll find a squeaky-clean metropolis that makes for a great introduction to Kyūshū, or indeed Japan as a whole; as such, it deserves a day or two of any traveller’s time.

Highlights include a couple of excellent museums and ranks of eye-catching modern architecture, notably the shopping and leisure complex of Canal City. As with any self-respecting Japanese city of this size, Fukuoka maintains a lively entertainment district, in this case crammed onto the tiny river island of Nakasu, though it’s safer on the wallet to head for the less glitzy bars and restaurants of Tenjin, the city’s main downtown area. Further west is Ōhori-kōen, where you’ll find the ruins of Fukuoka castle, as well as an art museum with an important collection of twentieth-century works; and Momochi, home to the iconic Fukuoka Tower.

An excellent, easy day-trip can be made south of Fukuoka to the ancient town of Dazaifu, once the seat of government for all of southern Japan, but now a pleasant backwater with a fine collection of temples and shrines and a fascinating museum.

Hakata

博多

Even today the old cultural and economic divide between the original castle town, Fukuoka, on the west bank of the river and the former merchants’ quarter of Hakata on the east bank can be traced, albeit faintly, in the city’s streets. Much of Hakata consists of dull office blocks, with plenty of shopping opportunities in the malls above and the arcades below the JR station, but the district is also home to the city’s oldest shrine and its most rumbustious festival. You’ll also still find the occasional wooden building, narrow lane or aged wall, while some of the unique Hakata culture is showcased in its well-presented folk museum. Not surprisingly, many craft industries originated in this area, while geisha still work the traditional entertainment district of Nakasu (though these days they’re vastly outnumbered by the area’s working girls). Hakata is also home to one of Fukuoka’s most famous landmarks, the futuristic Canal City complex.

Kushida-jinja

櫛田神社 • 1-41 Kamikawabata-machi • Museum daily 10am–5pm • ¥300

At the south end of Kamikawabata-dōri, a covered shopping arcade, a left turn under a torii brings you to the back entrance of Hakata’s principal shrine, Kushida-jinja, built in 1587 but originally founded in 757. This is the home of Hakata’s annual Gion Yamakasa festival (July 1–15), which climaxes on the 15th in a 5km-long dawn race finishing at Kushida-jinja, in which seven teams manhandle one-tonne portable shrines (yamakasa) through the streets while spectators douse them with water; they use replicas of the 10m-tall portable shrine you’ll see between the torii and the main temple building. Like Kyoto’s Gion festival, the Yamakasa harks back to the Kamakura period (1185–1333 AD) when Buddhist priests sprinkled sacred water to drive away summer epidemics. There’s a small museum of shrine treasures in the grounds – it’s not of great interest, but it does stock English-language leaflets about Kushida-jinja and the festival.

Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan

博多町家ふるさと館 • 6-10 Reisen-machi • Daily 10am–6pm • ¥200 • 092 281 7761, hakatamachiya.com

Just east of Kushida-jinja, you’ll see the traditional whitewashed walls and grey roofs of Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan, a folk museum which evokes the Hakata of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Its centrepiece is a restored wooden shophouse (machiya) from the mid-Meiji era, but be sure also to catch the twenty-minute video on the Gion Yamakasa festival.

Some of the crafts for which Fukuoka is renowned can be seen in the museum (and bought in the shop): the most famous are Hakata ningyō, hand-painted, unglazed clay dolls fashioned as samurai, kabuki actors, or demure, kimono-clad women; champon, long-stemmed, glass toys with a bowl at the end which make a clicking sound when you blow into them; and Hakata ori, slightly rough silk fabric traditionally used for obi (sashes worn with kimono), but now made into ties, wallets and bags.

Fukuoka Asian Art Museum

福岡アジア美術館, Fukuoka Ajia Bijutsukan • 7F 3-1 Shimokawabata-machi • 10am–8pm; closed Wed • ¥200 • 092 263 1100, faam.city.fukuoka.lg.jp

Located on the seventh floor of the ritzy Hakata Riverain shopping complex, near the Naka-gawa, the Fukuoka Asian Art Museum boasts a modest but interesting collection of contemporary art from Asia, as well as temporary exhibitions. You can occasionally see artists at work in the upstairs studio.

Nakasu

中洲

West of Kushida-jinja, Nakasu is an entertainment district built on a sandbank in the middle of the Naka-gawa. Its size is deceptive – despite being a mere 1.5km long by 250m wide, this space somehow manages to squeeze in around two thousand restaurants and bars. Though most atmospheric at night, when hundreds of working girls clamour for custom and almost as many yatai set up shop along the riverbanks, the district can still make for an interesting wander during daylight.

Canal City

1-2 Sumiyoshi • canalcity.co.jp

The weird and wonderful multicoloured blocks of Canal City, a showpiece urban renewal project inaugurated in 1996, lie near Nakasu’s southernmost point on the east bank of the river. Apart from two large hotels, a major theatre and a thirteen-screen cinema with seating for nearly 2600, the complex also houses shopping arcades and a host of bars and restaurants. The liveliest part, however, is the interior court, where the salmon-pink and turquoise buildings wrap round the “canal”, which erupts every half-hour during the day with five-storey-high jets of water, augmented by special light and animation shows on the hour in the evening.

Tenjin

天神

West of the Naka-gawa, the city’s downtown area, Tenjin, has upmarket boutiques, galleries, department stores and “fashion buildings”, as well as plenty of bars, restaurants and yatai, but little in the way of sights.

ACROS Fukuoka

1-1 Tenjin • Step garden Daily: March, April, Sept & Oct 9am–6pm; May–Aug 9am–6.30pm; Nov–Feb 9am–5pm • Free • Rooftop observation deck Sat & Sun 10am–4pm • Free • Crafts gallery Daily 10am–6pm • Free

The unusual ACROS Fukuoka building, meaning “Asian CrossRoads Over the Sea”, was completed in 1995 as a cultural centre. Its terraced south side forms a “step garden”, facing Tenjin Central Park and leading up to a rooftop observation deck, while inside there is a symphony hall, an information centre, an interesting prefectural crafts exhibition space, shops and restaurants.

Ōhori-kōen

大濠公園 • Swan-boats ¥1100 for 30min; pedalloes from ¥600

In 1601, the Kuroda lords built their castle on a low hill sitting among coastal marshes to the west of the Naka-gawa. Today, just a few old stone walls and ruined watchtowers remain, but the castle grounds have been landscaped to form Ōhori-kōen, a large public park. It’s most easily accessible from the subway; exit 3 of Ōhori-kōen Station brings you up beside a large lake spanned by a pleasing necklace of islets and bridges.

Fukuoka Art Museum

福岡市美術館, Fukuoka-shi Bijutsukan • 1-6 Ōhorikōen • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm, until 8pm on Fri & Sat July–Oct • ¥200 • 092 714 6051, fukuoka-art-museum.jp

Ōhori-kōen’s foremost attraction is the Fukuoka Art Museum, situated in its southeast corner. Its three ground-floor rooms contain a hotchpotch of early Japanese and Asian art, including the Kuroda family treasures and several eye-catching statues of Buddhism’s twelve guardian generals (Jūni Jinshō), each crowned with his associated zodiacal beast. Upstairs you leap a few centuries to the likes of Dalí, Miró and Chagall in a great retrospective of twentieth-century Western art, displayed alongside contemporary Japanese works.

Momochi

モモチ

To the west of central Fukuoka, the Momochi district has only recently been reclaimed from the sea, and handed over to ambitious city planners. A fair proportion of international visitors to the area are English teachers on visa runs from Korea, while locals swing by for baseball games at the Fukuoka Dome and retail therapy at the district’s several outlet malls. However, it’s worth heading this way for a zip up the Fukuoka Tower or a visit to the excellent Fukuoka City Museum.

Fukuoka Tower

福岡タワー • 2-3-26 Momochihama • Observation deck daily 9.30am–11pm • ¥800 • www.fukuokatower.co.jp • 15min walk from Nishijin subway station, or bus #306 from Hakata or #302 from Tenjin (bus stop on Watanabe-dōri, south of Nanotsu-dōri)

Momochi’s most striking building by far is the 234m-high, pencil-thin Fukuoka Tower, which has become one of the city’s most famous icons. Primarily a communications tower, its first section is an empty shell coated with 8000 sheets of mirror glass, while the top third bristles with radio transmitters. In between, at 123m, the architects slipped in an observation deck to capitalize on the spectacular views of Fukuoka and Hakata Bay; a 2019 refurbishment added a café-bar and “entertainment level” on the floors below.

Fukuoka City Museum

福岡市博物館, Fukuoka-shi Hakubatsukan • 3-1-1 Momochihama • Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm • ¥200 • 092 845 5011, museum.city.fukuoka.jp

Five minutes’ walk south of the Fukuoka Tower is the excellent Fukuoka City Museum which occupies an imposing, late-1980s structure of mirrored glass and grey stone. The museum’s most famous exhibit is the two-centimetre-square Kin-in gold seal, ornamented with a dumpy, coiled snake. According to its inscription, the seal was presented by China’s Han emperor to the King of Na in 57 AD – it was only rediscovered in 1784 in a grave on an island in Hakata Bay.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE FUKUOKA

By plane So close to the city centre that you could walk into town in half an hour, Fukuoka Airport (domestic terminal 092 621 6059, international 092 483 7007, fukuoka-airport.jp) is handily located only two subway stops east of Hakata and five from Tenjin; the subway station is located in the domestic terminal, which is linked to the international terminal by shuttle bus (10–15min; free). There are also Nishitetsu buses every 20min direct to Hakata Station (15min; ¥260) and Tenjin’s Nishitetsu-Fukuoka Station (30min; ¥310) from the international terminal. International flights arrive from all over East and Southeast Asia, as well as from Helsinki (with Finnair). And yes, the airport’s code really is “FUK”.

Destinations Kagoshima (1 daily; 50min); Kansai International (5 daily; 1hr 10min); Miyazaki (13 daily; 45min); Nagoya (1–2 hourly; 1hr 10min); Naha (1–2 hourly; 1hr 40min); Niigata (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Osaka (Itami; 9 daily; 1hr 10min); Sapporo (5 daily; 2hr 10min); Sendai (7 daily; 1hr 40min); Tokyo (2–4 hourly; 1hr 30min); Yakushima (1 daily; 1hr).

By train Don’t go looking for a Fukuoka Station; the vast majority of trains to the city arrive at Hakata, a fairly central station whose somewhat confusing name dates from the time before the two neighbouring towns of Fukuoka and Hakata merged. Hakata Station is where the Tōkaidō and Kyūshū Shinkansen meet; further west, across the Naka-gawa in Tenjin, Nishitetsu-Fukuoka Station serves Dazaifu.

Hakata Station destinations Arita (1–2 hourly; 1hr 25min); Beppu (1–3 hourly; 2hr–3hr 20min); Hiroshima (every 15min; 1hr 10min–1hr 50min); Huis ten Bosch (hourly; 1hr 45min); Kagoshima (every 30min; 1hr 20min–2hr 30min); Kumamoto (every 30min; 40min–1hr 20min); Kyoto (every 30min; 2hr 50min); Miyazaki (hourly, usually with a change in Ōita; 5hr 45min); Nagasaki (every 30min–1hr; 2hr); Osaka (every 15–20min; 2hr 35min); Takeo (hourly; 1hr 10min); and Tokyo (every 30min; 5hr–5hr 20min).

Nishitetsu-Fukuoka Station destinations Dazaifu (3–4 hourly, usually with a change at Nishitetsu-Futsukaichi; 30min).

By bus Most long-distance buses call at the Tenjin Bus Terminal in the Nishitetsu-Fukuoka Station, before terminating at the Hakata Bus Terminal (aka Fukuoka Kōtsu Centre), immediately northwest of Hakata Station.

Destinations Beppu (roughly hourly; 2hr 30min); Dazaifu (2–4 hourly; 45min); Kagoshima (every 30min–1hr; 4hr 30min); Kumamoto (every 10–20min; 2hr 20min); Kyoto (1 daily; 10hr 30min); Miyazaki (every 20min–1hr; 4hr 30min); Nagasaki (every 20–30min; 2hr 30min); Osaka (2 daily; 9hr 20min–10hr 40min).

By ferry Fukuoka is connected by ferry and hydrofoil to Busan, Korea’s second-largest city. Most travel on one of Beetle’s hydrofoils (2 daily; 3hr; 092 281 2315, jrbeetle.co.jp), which cost ¥14,000/22,000 one-way/return, sometimes with a discount if booked in advance. Some find the journey uncomfortable – it’s a little like sitting on a washing machine for a few hours – but a more leisurely trip can be enjoyed on the daily Camellia Line ferry ( 092 262 2323, www.camellia-line.co.jp), which costs from ¥9000 one-way. The ferry heads to Busan by day (departing 12.30pm; 5hr 30min), then back to Fukuoka overnight (embarkation closes 8pm, disembarkation starts 7.30am). From the ferry terminals, take a Nishitetsu city bus for the 10min ride to either Tenjin (¥190) or Hakata Station (¥230).

GETTING AROUND

By subway The easiest way of getting around Fukuoka is on its fast and efficient subway system; most places of interest fall within walking distance of a station. Trains run from 5.30am to midnight, and the minimum fare is ¥200. Note that some subway services switch lines mid-route, and others are actually JR trains running into and out of the station. If you expect to make several journeys, it’s worth buying a one-day subway card (¥620), which also gets you small discounts at several museums; those on tourist visas can also get two-day passes for ¥720, though these are only available at the airport and Tenjin and Hakata stations.

By bus For those places not within immediate striking distance of the subway, such as the Hawks Town area, you’ll need to use Nishitetsu city buses, most of which funnel through the Hakata Station–Tenjin corridor. The “Tourist City Pass” (¥820) is a one-day tourist-only card covering both city buses and the subway. Look out for the handy “100-yen bus” – where you pay a flat fare of ¥100 – which loops round from Hakata Station in both clockwise and anti-clockwise directions, via Nishitetsu-Fukuoka Station, Nakasu and Canal City.

Car rental Eki Rent-a-Car has offices in Hakata Station ( 092 431 5152) and at the airport’s international terminal ( 092 281 2374).

INFORMATION

Information offices Fukuoka has a good sprinkling of information offices with English-speaking staff. There are desks in both airport terminals, but the main tourist office (daily 8am–9pm; 092 431 3003) is located on Hakata Station’s central concourse. In Tenjin, there’s an office on the ground floor of the Mitsukoshi store (daily 10am–6.30pm; 092 751 6904), in the same complex as the Nishitetsu-Fukuoka Station. Just north of here on Meiji-dōri, the attractive Kyūshū Tourist Information Centre (daily 9am–7pm; 092 731 7711, welcomekyushu.com) covers the whole island and offers a plethora of helpful services, including a currency exchange machine, and luggage storage and delivery. There’s also a cultural and tourist information centre at ACROS Fukuoka (daily 10am–6pm, volunteer interpreters available 11am–5pm; 092 725 9100).

Listings and map The free monthly magazine, Fukuoka Now ( fukuoka-now.com), is worth a look for local events; it also produces a useful, free city map. Both magazine and map are available at tourist information offices and at various hotels, shops and restaurants.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Fukuoka has several modern, world-class hotels and a good selection of business hotels scattered around the city centre. The standard of budget accommodation has also improved recently; it’s mostly located around Hakata Station.

&And Hostel アンドホステル 10-5 Kamikawabata-machi 092 273 0770, andhostel.jp. Trendy by name, trendy by nature, this claims to be the first “smart” hostel in Japan, weaving the “internet of things” into its affairs in every possible way. This may sound a little much, but in reality it’s a pretty chilled place to stay, and the on-site café-bar is worth poking your head into too. Dorms ¥3000, doubles ¥9500

Hotel Active! Hakata ヒテルアクティブ！博多 3-20-16 Hakata-eki-mae 092 452 0001, hotel-active.com. Good-value option between Nakasu and the train station. They’ve got the basics right and a lot more besides – witness the hot-drink vending machines by the lift on every floor, stylishly decorated corridors, coin laundry with free detergent, and the excellent buffet breakfasts. Rooms are small, but that’s a given at this price level. ¥10,800

Dukes Hotel Hakata ヂュークスホテル博多 2-3-9 Hakata-eki-mae 092 472 1800, dukes-hotel.com. A lobby heavy with the scent of flowers sets a suitable tone for this elegant, British-styled business hotel, whose lovingly decorated rooms are excellent value for the price and location. ¥10,500

Grand Hyatt グランドハイアット Canal City 092 282 1234, fukuoka.grand.hyatt.com. Landmark luxury hotel, offering a lively piano bar in the plunging atrium and large, beautifully designed rooms in a modern Japanese style, with elegant lighting, contemporary artworks and acres of light wood. Consider upgrading to a Club room (about ¥10,000/night extra) to score breakfast, afternoon tea and evening cocktails in the Grand Club lounge, which is set in a tranquil rooftop garden, as well as free access to the lap pool, gym and onsen (otherwise ¥2000/person/day for standard guests). ¥22,000

Hana Hostel 福岡花宿 4-213 Kamikawabata-machi 092 282 5353, fukuoka.hanahostel.com. One of the best hostels on the island, with cheery staff and a fantastically central location, just off Kamikawabata shopping arcade. The curtained-off dorm beds are surprisingly large, and the many private rooms (with bunks or futons) are well appointed. There’s also a roof terrace, kitchen, coin laundry, free luggage storage and rental bicycles. On Sat nights it costs ¥300/person extra. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥6200

Kashima Honkan 鹿島本館 3-11 Reisen-machi 092 291 0746, kashima-co@mx7.tiki.ne.jp. The first building in Fukuoka to be designated an important cultural property, this homely, hundred-year-old ryokan is located on a pleasant backstreet, just round the corner from Gion subway station. The 27 tatami rooms are elegant, with antique screens and wall hangings, though none is en suite. English is spoken. Breakfast is available for an extra fee. ¥9000

Nishitetsu Hotel Croom 西鉄ホテルクルーム 1-17-6 Hakata-eki-mae 092 413 5454, nnr-h.com. At this conveniently-located business hotel (almost literally a stone’s throw from Hakata station), the compact, sound-proofed rooms offer a good dose of contemporary style. There’s an indoor onsen on site – highly attractive, like all the common areas here. ¥19,000

YATAI

Forget the sights – this is Fukuoka. Come evening, steam billows out from more than one hundred mobile street-kitchens; known as yatai, each cocoons a fascinating little world of its own. Customers push their way through a thin drape of plastic sheets to find a garrulous clutch of locals, crammed onto narrow benches and filling up on scrumptious food – pork-based tonkotsu ramen has long been the meal of choice (¥700 or so), though these days yakimentaiko (grilled, slightly spiced roe; ¥900) is a highly popular yatai snack. Whatever you eat, wash it down with beer or a few flasks of sake, and you’ll more than likely make a few new friends. Mobile in nature, no yatai has a fixed location, but this being Japan they rarely venture too far from their original mark, and you’ll usually find them open from around 7pm to 3am, often closing on Sunday. The greatest concentrations of yatai are around the intersection of Tenjin Nishi-dōri and Shōwa-dōri, and at the south end of Nakasu along the southwest bank, but you’ll bump into them on pavements all over the centre; Fukuoka Now’s free map marks locations. These are some of the most enjoyable places to eat in all Japan, and the focus on merry-making means that any noisy yatai is worth a go, but some certainly stand out from the crowd – try Chez Remy or Mamichan.

Sunroute Hakata 4-10 Hakata-eki-chūōgai 092 434 1311, sunroute.jp. Just a 2min walk from Hakata Station, this good-value, twelve-storey business hotel offers small but comfortable and well-designed bedrooms and helpful staff; it occupies a narrow plot, so most rooms are set back from the main road. ¥8880

EATING MAP

Not surprisingly for such a cosmopolitan city, Fukuoka boasts a range of international cuisines. For a cheap meal, however, try some of the city’s characteristic yatai kitchens, many of which serve the pork-based Hakata ramen that the city is known for. Tenjin is a good bet for traditional restaurants, particularly the Daimyō district, immediately west of Tenjin Nishi-dōri, which is packed with little bars and funky designer boutiques. Fukuoka’s most notorious speciality food is fugu, the poisonous blowfish eaten only in winter (Nov–March); though you’ll find fugu throughout Japan, the best is said to come from the waters off northern Kyūshū.

Aux Bacchanales オーバカナル 1-4-1 Chūō 092 762 7373. A French-style bar-café-brasserie with red leather booths, brass rails and windows looking out onto a covered arcade to the east of Nishitetsu Fukuoka Station. Despite the charming decor and the dickie-bow-wearing waiters, prices aren’t all that high – coffees cost from ¥300, while petits plats such as croque madame start at around ¥800. Cheese and scrumptious cakes are also on the menu. Daily 10am–9.30pm.

Chez Rémy レミさんち 4-9 Watanabe-dōri 092 986 2117. One of Fukuoka’s more unusual yatai, selling French cuisine, rather than ramen – try a pumpkin gnocchi gratin (¥600) with some wine, or fuse French tastes with more typical yatai ones with a mentaiko bechamel toast (¥500). Daily 10am–9pm.

Chikae 稚加榮 2-2-17 Daimyō 092 721 4624. Famous, fifty-year-old fish restaurant where you sit at a counter overlooking the open fish tanks, or at tables to the side. Kimono-clad staff bustle about bearing platters laden with ultra-fresh sashimi and sushi, adding to the spectacle. It’s a good place to try the local speciality karashi mentaiko (marinated spicy fish eggs), as well as fugu. Sashimi platters start at ¥2500, and sushi at ¥2800, while weekend lunch sets are a bargain ¥1500. Mon–Fri 5–9pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–9pm.

Curry Honpo 伽哩本舗 6-135 Kamikawabata-machi 092 262 0010. Now this is a little treat, quite different from the regular curry rice places found across Japan, thanks to one little menu addition – you can choose to have yours baked, which (like this needs to be said) tastes particularly good with the cheese varieties. You’ll pay around ¥1000. Tues–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat & Sun 11am–8pm.

Fujiyoshi 藤よし 9-6 Nishi-nakasu 092 761 5692. Warm, lively izakaya, set in a distinctive half-timbered building. Yakitori’s the thing here, with chicken skewers for ¥150, accompanied by asparagus in summer or ginkgo nuts in winter, but the big plates of deep-fried chicken (kara-age) are excellent, too. Mon–Sat 4–10.30pm.

Hakata Issou 博多一双 3-1-6 Hakataeki-higashi 092 472 7739. In a workaday neighbourhood just east of Hakata station, this is your best bet for “neo-Hakata ramen”, a relatively new style made with an odd, frothy, slightly gritty-tasting soup. Bowls from ¥650. Daily 11am–midnight.

Hakata Rāmen Zen 博多ラーメン膳 1-10-30 Tenjin 092 714 1565. Serving some of the best noodles in town, at some of the cheapest prices. Bowls start at ¥320, and it’s no surprise that long queues – locals, not tourists – develop at mealtimes; the garlicky ninnikukoku option is most popluar. Daily 11am–midnight.

Mamichan まみちゃん 2-4-8 Daimyō 090 1921 0389. One of the best yatai in town, with amiable staff, an English-language menu, fair prices, and – most importantly – a great selection of ramen and beer snacks. Try their mentai-tamago (a sort of roe omelette; ¥700) for an unusual treat. Mon–Sat 6pm–1.30am.

Royal Garden Café ロイヤルガーデンカフェ 1-3 Ōhori-kōen 092 406 4271. Decent-looking café-bakery, though with one big trump card to play – it overlooks Ōhori Park’s delightful lake. Mon–Fri 11am–8.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am–8.30pm.

Sushi Kosaka 鮨香坂 3-9-3 Hakata-eki-higashi 092 481 2887. Superb sushi bar that’s well worth seeking out, 5min walk southeast of Hakata Station. Design is minimalist, all blonde wood and polished concrete, and there are just seven counter seats. Evening prices are stratospheric, but ¥3240 for a lunchtime set of ten nigiri sushi pieces, including excellent fatty tuna, pickled mackerel and gari (pickled ginger), represents very good value. Tues–Sun noon–2pm & 5–10pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Fukuoka’s famous Nakasu nightlife district is crammed full of clubs, restaurants and bars, as well as a whole clutch of seedier establishments aimed at Japanese businessmen. It’s a great area to wander round, but most places are extortionately expensive and only take customers by recommendation, if they accept foreigners at all. A happier hunting ground lies around Tenjin’s main crossroads, particularly Oyafukō-dōri and the streets immediately to the east, which are packed with bars and clubs; roughly translated, Oyafukō-dōri means “street of disobedient children”, originally referring to a local school but nowadays more applicable to groups of drunken college kids who gather here at weekends under the blind eye of the kōban (neighbourhood police) on the corner. Lastly, any yatai worth its salt serves booze, and they’re certainly the city’s most characterful and atmospheric drinking spots.

Bomes Indee 4-5-3 Nakasu 092 282 7326. Something different in the seedy Nakasu area – a small vinyl bar whose music (primarily reggae, ska and funk) you’ll hear pulsing down the road; there’s often a mic floating around too. They’ve the regular selection of drinks, and a ¥500 cover charge. Daily 8pm–6am.

Happy Cock 9F, 2-1-51 Daimyō 092 734 2686, happycock.club. It’s elbow room only at weekends in this large, laidback bar just off Tenjin Nishi-dōri. DJs, party nights and nomihōdai (all-you-can-drink deals, typically ¥3000 for men, ¥2000 for women) pull a younger crowd. Wed, Thurs & Sun 10pm–5am, Fri & Sat 9pm–5am.

Morris’ Red Fox モーリスレッドフォックス 7F, 2-1-4 Daimyō 092 771 4774. The first of a chain of Morris bars across the city, this British-style pub has red leather banquettes and big-screen sports, but the real draw, at least on summer evenings, is the large, lofty balcony. Well-kept beers on tap (from ¥750/pint) include Guinness, Hoegaarden and Japanese craft brews, to wash down fish’n’chips, shepherd’s pie and the like. Mon–Thurs 5pm–1am, Fri & Sat 5pm–3am, Sun 5pm–midnight.

Off Broadway 2F, 1-8-40 Maizuru 092 724 5383. Imagine a processed chunk of New York – fries, burgers and buffalo wings on the menu, and a sophisticated, multinational clientele, who find themselves serenaded by live jazz and Latin music on Fri and DJs every night. Mon–Thurs & Sun 7pm–3am, Fri & Sat 7.30pm–5am.

Voodoo Lounge 4F, 1-8-38 Tenjin 092 732 4662, voodoolounge.jp. Boogie the night away or chill out in this lively bar that’s recently moved to Oyafukō-dōri. Stages an eclectic programme of DJs, live bands and other events. Entry charges and opening times vary.

ENTERTAINMENT

To find out what’s on, consult Fukuoka Now or ask at any of the tourist offices; tickets are available through the Kyūshū Tourist Information Centre.

Hakata-za 博多座/ 2-1 Shimokawabata-machi 092 263 5555, hakataza.co.jp. As well as musicals such as Les Miserables, this large theatre next to Hakata Riverain Mall stages regular kabuki performances, especially in June and Nov; it’s best to book in advance and, when you arrive, ask for an English-language leaflet to guide you through proceedings.

United Cinemas 4F Canal City 092 291 0730, unitedcinemas.jp. Film fans should check the current week’s showings at United Cinema’s thirteen-screen multiplex, where English-language films are shown with Japanese subtitles (¥1800 all day Sat and before 8pm Sun–Fri, ¥1200 after 8pm Sun–Fri). Also houses an IMAX cinema and a restaurant-cinema.

DIRECTORY

Consulates Australia, 7F, 1-6-8 Tenjin 092 734 5055, japan.embassy.gov.au; China, 1-3-3 Jigyohama 092 713 1121; South Korea, 1-1-3 Jigyohama 092 771 0461; US, 2-5-26 Ōhori 092 751 9331, fukuoka.usconsulate.gov.

FUKUOKA FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

Hakata celebrates a whole host of festivals, of which the biggest are the Gion Yamakasa and the Hakata Dontaku, now held during Golden Week (May 3 & 4). In feudal times, Hakata townspeople were permitted across the river once a year to convey New Year greetings to their lord. Today’s festival centres on a parade along Meiji-dōri to the old castle.

On a similarly traditional theme, the sumo circus comes to town each November for Japan’s last basho of the season, held over fifteen days at the Fukuoka Kokusai Centre (15min walk northwest of Gofuku-machi or Nakasu Kawabata subway stations). The Kokusai Centre is smaller than the main Tokyo sumo stadium, which means that the cheap seats are a bit closer to the action and the atmosphere is livelier, especially when local favourites are wrestling. Book tickets in advance on sumo.pia.jp/en or buy the cheapest unreserved seats on the door on the day of competition (from 8am) and save some money for seasonal roast chestnuts, the snack of choice at the Fukuoka basho.

A much newer festival is the Isla de Salsa ( tiempo.jp), a celebration of Latin music held mid-August on Nokono-shima, a ten-minute ferry ride from Fukuoka.

Emergencies The main police station is at 7-7 Higashikoen, Hakata-ku ( 092 641 4141). Emergency numbers are listed in Basics.

Hospitals and clinics The largest general hospital with English-speaking staff is Kyūshū Medical Centre, 1-8-1 Jigyohama ( 092 852 0700), near Hawks Town. Also on the west side of town, there’s the International Clinic Tojin-machi, two blocks east of Tojin-machi subway station on Meiji-dōri ( 092 717 1000, internationalclinic.org), run by a Dutch general practitioner.

Immigration For visa renewals, contact Fukuoka Regional Immigration Bureau, in the airport’s domestic terminal ( 092 626 5151, immi-moj.go.jp).

Dazaifu

太宰府

Only 15km southeast of Fukuoka, DAZAIFU only just breaks free of the urban sprawl, but manages to retain a definite country air. The town is very much on Kyūshū’s tourist map, thanks to the important Kyūshū National Museum. The crowd of art lovers and historians gets a boost in late February and March, when plum blossoms signal both the start of spring and the onset of the exam season, and anxious students descend on Tenman-gū, Japan’s foremost shrine dedicated to the god of learning. Thankfully, the nearby temples and other historical relics remain surprisingly peaceful. Everything is within easy walking distance of the station, making it possible to cover the main sights in a day.

Brief history

Dazaifu rose to prominence in the late seventh century, when the emperor established a regional seat of government and military headquarters (known as the Dazaifu) here, responsible for defence, trade and diplomatic ties, particularly with China and Korea. For more than five hundred years successive governor generals ruled Kyūshū from Dazaifu, protected by a series of ditches, embankments and hilltop fortresses, until political circumstances changed in the twelfth century and the town gradually fell into decline.

Tenman-gū

天満宮 • 4-7-1 Saifu • Shrine Daily 6/6.30am–6.30/7.30pm • Free • Kanko Historical Museum Mon & Thurs–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥200 • Dazaifu Tenmangu Museum Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • ¥400 • dazaifutenmangu.or.jp

iStock

SEKI BUTSU, USUKI

THE STORY OF TENJIN

Tenjin is the divine name of Sugawara-no-Michizane, a brilliant scholar of the Heian period, who died in Dazaifu in 903 AD. By all accounts, Michizane was a precocious youngster – composing waka poems at five years old and Chinese poetry by the age of eleven – and went on to become a popular governor of Shikoku before rising to the second-highest position at court as “Minister of the Right”. Not surprisingly, he found no favour with his powerful superior, Fujiwara Tokihira, who persuaded the emperor to banish Michizane. So, in 901 Michizane, accompanied by his son, daughter and a retainer, travelled south to take up a “post” as deputy governor of Dazaifu. He was kept under armed guard until he died in despair – though still loyal to the emperor – two years later. Soon after, a succession of national disasters was attributed to Michizane’s restless spirit, so in 905 Tenman-gū was founded to pray for his repose. This was the first of an estimated 12,000 shrines dedicated to Tenjin in Japan.

From the train station, it’s a short walk east up pedestrianized Tenjin-sama-dōri, which is lined with torii, to Dazaifu’s main historical sight, Tenman-gū. This tenth-century shrine was built over the grave of Tenjin, the guardian deity of scholars, also known as Sugawara-no-Michizane, and is dedicated to him.

The approach to Tenman-gū lies over an allegorical stone bridge, Taiko-bashi; its first, steep arch represents the past, the present is flat, while the final, gentler hump indicates difficulties yet to come. While negotiating the bridge, take a close look at the second of the two little shrines on the right, which was constructed in 1458 for the three gods of the sea – its intricate, Chinese-style roof shelters some particularly fine carving. Beyond, a two-storey gate leads into a courtyard dominated by the main worship hall, built in 1591 but resplendent in red and gold lacquer under its manicured thatch. A twisted plum tree stands immediately to the right (east) of the hall. Known as the “flying plum tree”, it’s said to be over a thousand years old and, according to legend, originally grew in Michizane’s Kyoto garden. On the eve of his departure he wrote a farewell poem to the tree, but that night it upped roots and “flew” ahead of him to Dazaifu.

To the left and behind the worship hall, a modern building houses the small Kanko Historical Museum, detailing the life of Michizane through a series of tableaux. You can see a few older portraits, alongside a poem supposedly written by Michizane and other historical items, in the Dazaifu Tenmangū Museum, set back to your left as you leave the main cloisters.

Kyūshū National Museum

九州国立博物館, Kyūshū Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan • 4-7-2 Ishizaka • 9.30am–5pm; closed Mon • ¥430 • kyuhaku.com

A path beside the Dazaifu Tenmangū Museum leads towards a neighbouring hill, the ascent made easy on a covered escalator which eventually emerges beside the magnificent, wave-shaped building. This is home to the Kyūshū National Museum, Japan’s fourth national museum (after Tokyo, Kyoto and Nara). It focuses on the nation’s history of trade with other Asian countries and illustrates the profound impact these interactions had on local art and culture. It’s fascinating to see Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Egyptian ceramics side by side, and to compare Japanese Buddhist statues, musical instruments and lacquerware with those from neighbouring countries.

The permanent exhibition hall, on the fourth floor, is beautifully laid out, loosely divided by era into five spaces, covering prehistoric times to the Edo period. Look out here for the graceful folds of the golden robe of a tenth-century Buddha from nearby Kanzeon-ji; hand grenades from a Mongol ship wrecked at the Battle of Takashima in 1281; and a nineteenth-century textile swatch book that allowed the merchants of Nagasaki to choose which fabrics they wanted the Dutch to import from India for them. Running off the main hall, small auxiliary galleries pursue fascinating cross-cultural themes, such as “the ideal image of Asian people”, which features Greco-Roman-style Buddha images from Gandhara in Pakistan. There’s plenty of English labelling throughout, but it’s still worthwhile picking up a free audio guide at the desk before going in.

Kōmyōzen-ji

光明禅寺 • 2-16-1 Saifu • Hours irregular • ¥200 donation

From Tenman-gū, it’s about a 100m walk south to the small, serene Zen temple of Kōmyōzen-ji, which was dedicated in the mid-thirteenth century to Tenjin – Michizane’s deified spirit is said to have flown to China to study Zen Buddhism. Popular for its rhododendrons in early summer and its autumn foliage, the temple is an appealing collection of simple, wooden buildings whose tatami rooms contain Buddha figures or works of art. There’s usually no one around, but you’re welcome to explore – take your shoes off and follow the polished wooden corridors round to the rear, where there’s a contemplative garden made up of a gravel sea swirling round moss-covered headlands and jutting rocks, caught against a wooded hillside. The stones in the garden at the front of the temple are arranged in the character for “light”, referring to the halo of the Buddha.

Kanzeon-ji

観世音寺 • 1-1 Kanzeonji

Dazaifu’s other major sights lie about twenty minutes’ walk – or a short bicycle ride – west of the station; to avoid the main road, head west from the station to pick up a riverside path and then follow signs pointing you along a quiet lane (maps from the tourist office show the route). Take a left down a footpath just before a set of old foundation stones lying in the grass and the route brings you to the back of Kanzeon-ji. Founded in 746 AD by Emperor Tenji in honour of his mother, Empress Saimei, at one time Kanzeon-ji was the largest temple in all Kyūshū and even rated a mention in the great eleventh-century novel The Tale of Genji. Only some Buddhist statues and the bronze bell, the oldest in Japan, remain from the original temple, while the present buildings – unadorned and nicely faded – date from the seventeenth century.

Treasure house

Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500

Kanzeon-ji’s main hall holds a graceful standing Buddha, but you’ll find its most magnificent statues in the modern treasure house, to the right as you face the hall. The immediate impression is of the sheer power of the huge wooden figures, of which even the newest is at least 750 years old. The oldest is Tobatsu-Bishamonten (fittingly the god of treasure, with a flaming halo), standing second in line, which was sculpted from a single block of camphor wood in the eighth century. An informative English brochure provides further details, starting with the jizō figure facing you as you come up the stairs and working clockwise from there.

Kaidan-in

戒壇院 • 5-7-10 Kanzeonji

A short walk west of the Kanzeon-ji treasure house is the two-tiered roof of Kaidan-in, built in the late eighth century for the ordination of Buddhist priests and originally part of Kanzeon-ji. This is one of only three such ordination halls in Japan – the other two being at Tōdai-ji in Nara and Yakushi-ji in Tochigi Prefecture – and again the statuary is of interest, in this case an eleven-headed Kannon from the Heian period, dressed in fading gold.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION DAZAIFU

By train The easiest way of getting to Dazaifu is by train from Fukuoka’s Nishitetsu Station in Tenjin (3–4 hourly; 30min; ¥400), with a brief change usually necessary at Nishitetsu-Futsukaichi Station. This is not to be confused with JR Futsukaichi Station, which is a 10–15min walk away, and not a bad choice if you have a JR Pass, or are coming from the Hakata area (every 10min; 18–29min; ¥280).

Tourist information There’s a helpful tourist office outside Dazaifu Station (daily 9am–5pm; 092 925 1880, dazaifu.org), with local maps and brochures in English.

Bike rental At the train station you can rent a bicycle (¥500/day) or electric bike (¥800/day) to visit the western sights.

EATING

Dazaifu’s most famous foodstuff, sold at over thirty shops along Tenjin-sama-dōri, is umegaemochi, a delicious pounded rice cake filled with sweet bean paste and decorated with a plum-flower motif, in honour of Tenjin. In a sign of how popular Dazaifu has become, the busiest place to eat or drink in town is the Starbucks, which is actually worth a look for its intriguing design.

Coffee Kazamidori 珈琲風見鶏 3-1-23 Saifu 092 928 8685. Just around the corner from the station, and set in what was once a ryokan, this broodingly dark café is a charming place for coffee. Feel free to wind up one of the cute music boxes. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6.30pm.

Ume-no-hana 梅の花 4-4-41 Saifu 092 928 7787, umenohana.co.jp. This restaurant in the lanes east of Kōmyōzen-ji is by far the best in Dazaifu, famed for its melt-in-the-mouth tofu creations, such as steamed dumplings and sweet almond puddings. Served in tatami rooms overlooking a pretty garden, set meals will set you back ¥3000–5200, though lunch sets are a relative bargain at ¥1620. Reservations are a good idea. Daily 11am–3.30pm & 4.30–9pm.

Yasutake やす武 2-7-16 Saifu 092 922 5079. This little place is popular for its inexpensive, handmade soba dishes (try the satisfyingly viscous yamakake variety; ¥1000), as well as its umegaemochi. It’s on the right-hand side of Tenjin-sama-dōri, just beyond the first torii. Daily: café 10am–6pm; takeaway mochi 9am–7pm.

Arita

有田

One of Japan’s leading pottery towns, ARITA has been producing typically sparse, elegant porcelain for four centuries. The excellent Kyūshū Ceramic Museum is the place to start your explorations, but the main historic kilns each have their own museum and store. Dozens of other galleries and workshops dot the town, so there’s plenty of opportunity to shop and, in some places, watch the potters at work. In early May and late November, the town holds big fairs to sell ceramics at discount prices.

Bicycles are a good way of getting around Arita, which spreads east–west along a narrow valley for several kilometres. The western half is Arita proper, with the main JR station, while to the east, the more historic Kami-Arita (Upper Arita, aka Uchiyama, “Inner Mountain”) has its own station for local trains. The town supports several nice guesthouses, but if you’re after a full-service ryokan, you could happily base yourself in Takeo, fifteen minutes away by train.

Kyūshū Ceramic Museum

九州陶磁文化館, Kyūshū Tōji Bunkakan • South side of Highway 35, the main east–west through road, about 1km south of Arita Station • Tues– Sun 9am–5pm • Free • 0955 43 3681, saga-museum.jp/ceramic

The lovely, modern Kyūshū Ceramic Museum, with plenty of English labelling, covers not only Arita ware (arita-yaki), but other Kyūshū styles such as Karatsu ware, a simple pottery that’s popular for tea ceremonies, as well as contemporary ceramics. Downstairs, don’t miss the Shibata Collection, which chronologically traces the development of Arita ware in the Edo period through both objets d’art and functional pieces.

“WHITE GOLD” – THE PORCELAIN OF ARITA

In 1616, according to tradition, high-quality kaolin (soft white clay) was discovered at Izumiyama, in the hills north of Arita, by a potter who’d been captured by Toyotomi Hideyoshi during his ill-fated campaigns against Korea in the 1590s. For the first time in Japan, it became possible to make white, strong, semi-translucent porcelain, rather than earthenware. Initially, only underglaze blue on a white background was produced, but further enhancements fusing Chinese techniques with Japanese aesthetics were made over the following decades.

In the 1640s and 1650s, Kakiemon – still one of Arita’s leading kilns – successfully fired porcelain with multicoloured overglaze painting for the first time, and developed its own distinctive underglaze, nigoshide: thin, matt and milky-white, it gives a warm tone to backgrounds, but is very difficult to fire, with only a forty percent success rate. Out of these innovations, Kakiemon established an emblematic style: naturalistic, painterly plant and animal designs in bold, asymmetric compositions, using translucent blue, green and – notably – orange-red (made from oxidized iron, to a recipe that’s still secret), set against large, undecorated areas of white.

EXPANSION AND DECLINE

During the upheavals in China that followed the collapse of the Ming dynasty in 1644, Arita was able to corner the export market. Porcelain was shipped from the local port, Imari (hence it’s sometimes known as “Imari ware”), to the Dutch enclave at Nagasaki, and then to Europe and the Middle East, reaching a peak in the 1660s when the Dutch East India Company exported over 25,000 pieces. Pottery was so valuable around this time that a method of repairing damaged pieces using gold – kintsugi – was developed. In the 1690s, Kakiemon ware found its way to William and Mary’s palace at Hampton Court, outside London, where it’s still on display.

As China recovered, however, its kilns were able to churn out “Chinese Imari” for a third of the price of the real thing, and in the eighteenth century further competition came from imitators in Europe such as Meissen and Chelsea. Kakiemon and many other kilns in Arita joined the race downmarket, turning out cheap and cheerful pottery to try to compete with the Chinese, but in 1757 the Dutch placed their last order with Arita, for just three hundred pieces.

In the mid-twentieth century, Western academic interest brought about a revival. In Kakiemon’s case, luck played a large part: family secrets were usually passed on by word of mouth, but around 1700, the head of the family, knowing that he was dying, had written a confidential handbook for his one-year-old son. This was dug out and used to reinvent the original techniques such as nigoshide that had been discontinued.

OKAWACHIYAMA AND THE NABESHIMA CLAN

Meanwhile, the major part of Arita’s domestic production in the Edo period was reserved for tribute payments: every year, the local Nabeshima lords had to give extravagant quantities of the highest-quality artworks to the shogun. To safeguard production, the Nabeshimas forcibly relocated thirty of Arita’s best potters to Okawachiyama, a remote village on the other side of Mt Kurokami, with only one road in and out. The potters were elevated to the rank of samurai, given swords even, but they were not allowed to leave. With no commercial pressures, Okawachiyama could develop the most sophisticated techniques to produce exquisite and varied works. After the Meiji Restoration of 1867, however, the Nabeshima clan kiln was closed down, though small-scale porcelain-making continues at Okawachiyama to this day.

Kakiemon

柿右衛門 • South off Highway 35, about 2km southwest of Arita Station • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 0955 43 2267, kakiemon.co.jp

One of Arita’s two most important kilns, Kakiemon is set in a lovely complex of thatched houses with a museum and a shop (best considered as a gallery, considering the stratospheric prices). The current master potter and head of the family, designated Kakiemon XV, was mentored by Kakiemon XIII – to better preserve the family secrets, knowledge is passed from grandfather to grandson. He’s introduced a freer, more dynamic style than his father, the technically brilliant Kakiemon XIV, who was made a National Living Treasure. Examples of both men’s work can be seen in the small but well-chosen museum, alongside very early polychromatic pieces by Kakiemon I.

Gen-emon

源石衛門 • About 2km northwest of Arita Station • Daily 8am–5pm (workshops closed Sat & Sun) • Free • 0955 42 4164, gen-emon.co.jp

Set in venerable buildings around a lovely garden, Gen-emon is a relative newcomer to the Arita porcelain scene, having started in 1753. Perhaps less burdened by the weight of history, the kiln now collaborates with outside designers and specializes in bright contemporary porcelain, at accessible prices. Visitors are allowed to walk around the atmospheric wooden workshops and kiln at the back of the compound, to watch men and women forming the clay, painting and underglazing (though the overglaze painting is off-limits). Traditionally, men would paint with the smaller brushes, made of weasel hair, while women wielded the big brushes, which are now made with hair from virgin female deer, though in times past the hair of well-nourished Kyoto ladies was used. Ask in the shop to visit the museum of Edo-period porcelain, which contains some fascinating early nineteenth-century blue and white plates: downstairs, one shows Dejima and a Dutch ship on fire; upstairs, several are decorated with primitive maps of Japan.

Imaemon

今石衛門 • Kami-Arita main street • Museum 9.30am–4.30pm; closed Mon • ¥300, or ¥500 if they put the best china out for special occasions • Shop Daily 8am–5pm; closed first Sun of the month • 0955 42 3101, imaemon.co.jp

Kakiemon’s big rival, Imaemon started out in the seventeenth century as the Nabeshima lord’s favourite painter of multicoloured overglaze, but took on the whole production process after the Meiji Restoration. The kiln maintains the highest technical capabilities, turning out intricate shapes and designs, sometimes using several different glazing techniques on the same piece, for customers that include the imperial household. The current master, Imaemon XIV, who favours geometrical snowflake patterns, is a National Living Treasure, as was his father, the innovative Imaemon XIII, who invented a method of blowing blue and grey underglaze paint through a straw to give a softer texture. The two-storey museum contains some gorgeous pieces dating back to the seventeenth century, with the newer work upstairs. It’s also well worth having a gander at their shop two doors away, where you’re as likely to be stunned by the prices as the designs. Occupying the early nineteenth-century painting workshop, it’s the oldest building in town, crowned by a gruesome devil to ward off evil.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ARITA

By train Arita is on the JR line from Fukuoka’s Hakata Station (1–2 hourly; 1hr 25min), via Takeo, to Sasebo and Huis ten Bosch. There are no direct trains to Isahaya and Nagasaki, but it’s an easy change at Haiki.

Information The tourist office is just in front of the station on the right (daily 9am–5pm; 0955 43 2121, arita.jp). Saga Prefecture has a useful English-language call centre for tourists ( 0952 20 1601), or for a personal guided tour, contact Iori Hisashi.

GETTING AROUND

By bicycle You can rent bikes (¥500/day) and electric bikes (¥1000/day) at Arita Station.

By bus Ask at the tourist office about Arita’s complicated community bus routes (all passing the station), which take in most of the sights several times a day; a single journey costs ¥200, a day pass ¥500.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Arita Terrace 有田テラス About 2km west of Arita Station on Highway 35 0995 42 4275; also a branch at Arita Sato Plaza. Arita’s nationally famous dish is the bentō sold at the station, hearty beef curry and rice with cheese, served in a handmade porcelain bowl that you get to keep. Here you can enjoy the curry (from ¥1800) in a charming café and porcelain gallery that’s handy for Kakiemon. It also serves home-made bread, delicious desserts and good coffee. Daily 11am–5pm, sometimes closed Wed; Arita Sato Plaza branch Wed–Sun noon–4pm.

HUIS TEN BOSCH: A DUTCH HOUSE IN THE JAPANESE WOODS

Opened in 1992 at a cost of ¥250 billion, the resort town of HUIS TEN BOSCH (“House in the Woods”; ハウステンボス; english.huistenbosch.co.jp) is a meticulously engineered replica of an old Dutch port, featuring a faithful re-creation of the royal palace in The Hague after which the town is named. Part theme park, part serious experiment in urban living, it owes its existence to the drive and vision of Kamichika Yoshikuni, a local entrepreneur who was so impressed with Dutch land reclamation and environmental management that he persuaded his financiers it could work in Japan as a commercial venture. While the result may seem quaintly old world, it’s equipped with the latest technology to manage its sophisticated heating systems, wave control, desalination, water recycling and security. All the pipes, cables and wires are hidden underground, and it’s designed to be as environmentally benign as possible. Unfortunately, Huis ten Bosch went bankrupt in 2003 with debts of ¥220 billion, but was rescued in 2010 by the HIS travel agency.

The town is divided into an exclusive residential district, Wassenaar, and public areas where you’ll find a raft of museums and attractions (daily 9am–10pm, though hours may change for special events; 1-day passport ¥7000), plus dozens of souvenir shops, numerous restaurants and hotels, including the world’s first robot hotel. There’s a wealth of themed rides and shows on site, including Horizon Adventure Plus, which re-creates a real-life Dutch flood with 800 tonnes of water cascading into the theatre. In the harbour zone lies a full-size replica of the first Dutch ship to reach Japan, De Liefde, which landed on the east coast of Kyūshū near Usuki in 1600.

The easiest way to get to the resort is on JR’s special Huis ten Bosch Express direct from Fukuoka’s Hakata Station (hourly; 1hr 55min; ¥3880), via Takeo and Arita, or on the Seaside Liner from Nagasaki (hourly; 1hr 30min; ¥2290). For those in a hurry, high-speed boats zip across Ōmura Bay direct to Huis ten Bosch from Nagasaki Airport (5 daily; 50min; ¥1960).

Iori Hisashi 庵久 5min walk from Kami-Arita Station 0955 43 2764 or 090 4274 9744, hisasih.com. Elegant homestay in a machiya (merchant’s house) built in 1900. Guests stay in a lovely tatami room with a cedar vaulted ceiling, antique porcelain and a seating area overlooking the small formal garden (private toilet, shared bathroom). The owner is a master potter and offers all kinds of pottery and antiques appraisal courses (with interpreter). Excellent lunches and dinners provided on request; breakfast included. ¥17,000

Keramiek ケラミック Kami-Arita main street, near Imaemon 080 3998 0477. Friendly, Dutch-owned guesthouse with very comfortable Western- and Japanese-style rooms and shared bathrooms. No meals available. ¥8000

Yasuna 保名 On Arita’s main street about 10min walk west of the station 0955 42 2783, yasuna.net. Gorgeous restaurant decorated with antique porcelain and furniture, serving very good kaiseki dinners (from ¥3000) that use plenty of seafood and local, seasonal produce such as wild mushrooms in autumn. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–9pm.

SHOPPING

Arita Sato Plaza 有田陶磁の里プラザ About 1.5km northwest of Arita Station arita.gr.jp. Sometimes labelled the Wholesale Ceramics Plaza, this is the best place to buy local porcelain. About twenty shops sell everything from tableware and gifts to top-dollar art pieces, at wholesale prices. Most shops daily 9am–5pm.

Takeo

武雄

Squeezed into a narrow valley, TAKEO is a pleasant onsen resort with several appealing ryokan and makes a good base for visiting Arita, just fifteen minutes away by train. The public bathing facilities are a ten-minute walk northwest of the station, behind a red-lacquered two-storey rōmon tower gate. First on the left through the gate is Moto-yu (元湯; daily 6.30am–midnight; ¥400), built in 1876 and the most traditional of the baths.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE

By train There are direct trains to Takeo from Fukuoka’s Hakata Station (hourly; 2hr; ¥1650); it’s faster and pricier to go on the Huis ten Bosch trains (hourly; 1hr 10min; ¥3100). Connections to Arita, a little further down the line, are frequent (1–2 hourly; 15min; ¥280).

ACCOMMODATION

Mifuneyama Kankō 御船山観光 4100 Takeo-chō 0954 23 3131, mifuneyama.co.jp. The best value in the area is to be had at this delightful place, 5min by car from the station (pick-ups offered) and set in lovely parkland at the foot of Mt Mifune. The tatami rooms have been designed with the attention to detail you’d expect at a higher-class venue, and there are several gorgeous onsen to choose from, among which the hillside-backed outdoor ones are best. As well as the half-board price quoted here, room-only and B&B deals are available. ¥19,000

Toyokan 東洋館 7408 Takeo-chō 0954 22 2191, takeo-toyokan.jp. Large ryokan in front of the rōmon, with several onsen and elegant Japanese-style rooms; those on the second floor enjoy views of the gate and the mountains, while the Sasana annexe room has its own lovely tea room and a cypress-wood bath. Seasonal kaiseki dinners are served on handmade pottery; B&B rates are also available. ¥28,000

Nagasaki

長崎

Gathered in the tucks and crevices of steep hills rising from a long, narrow harbour, and spreading its tentacles along several tributary valleys, NAGASAKI is one of Japan’s more picturesque cities, and one of the most popular with international visitors. This appeal is furthered by an easy-going attitude and an unusually cosmopolitan culture, resulting from over two centuries of contact with foreigners when the rest of Japan was all but closed to the world.

However, it does have to be said that “dark tourism” is Nagasaki’s biggest draw. The city would probably have remained little more than a bustling harbour town had a chance break in the clouds on August 9, 1945, not seared it into the world’s consciousness – within minutes, it became the target of the world’s second atomic bomb. It’s the A-Bomb hypocentre and nearby museum, as harrowing as that in Hiroshima, that brings most people to Nagasaki, yet the city has much else to offer. Communities of Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and British have all left their mark here, building colourful Chinese temples, Catholic churches and an array of European-style houses gathered in Glover Garden, as well as influencing the local cuisine and festivals. The tightly controlled Dutch enclave of Dejima, which was Japan’s only link with Europe for two hundred years, has been impressively reconstructed, while the Museum of History and Culture further fleshes out Nagasaki’s multicultural past and the stylish Art Museum evinces the city’s long-standing connections with Spain. Despite efforts to stamp out another European import, the Catholic faith, Nagasaki remains Japan’s centre of Christianity, claiming one-sixth of the country’s believers.

It’s possible to cover the city’s three main areas – the hypocentre in the northern suburb of Urakami; Dejima and the nearby Art Museum; and the area around Glover Garden – in a long day, capped off by a twilight ropeway ride up to the top of Inasa-yama, on the northwest side of the harbour. However, Nagasaki deserves at least one extra night’s stopover to explore its backstreets, soak up some atmosphere and sample a few of the city’s culinary treats.

Brief history

Portuguese traders first sailed into Nagasaki in 1570, establishing a trading post and Jesuit mission in what was then a small fishing village of just 1500 inhabitants. For a brief period, Christianity was a major influence here: several local daimyō were converted and the town earned the nickname “Little Rome”. However, in the late sixteenth century Toyotomi Hideyoshi, fearing the missionaries would be followed by military intervention, started to move against the Church. Though the persecutions – which provided the subject for Martin Scorsese’s 2016 film Silence, adapted from Endō Shūsaku 1966 novel – came in fits and starts, one of the more dramatic events occurred in Nagasaki in 1597 when Hideyoshi ordered the crucifixion of 26 Christians.

After 1616 the new shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada, gradually took control of all dealings with foreigners, and by the late 1630s only Chinese and Portuguese merchants continued to trade out of Nagasaki. The latter, however, were expelled in 1639 following a Christian-led rebellion in nearby Shimabara. Two years later, their place was filled by Dutch merchants who had endeared themselves to the shogun by sending a warship against the rebels. For the next two hundred years this tiny Dutch group, who were confined to the artificial island of Dejima, and the much larger Chinese community in the city provided Japan’s main access to the outside world (there were also trading links with Korea, through the large offshore island of Tsushima). Dutch imports such as coffee, chocolate, billiards and badminton were introduced to Japan via Dejima.

Eventually, the restrictions began to ease, especially after the early eighteenth century, when technical books were allowed into Nagasaki, making the city once again Japan’s main conduit for Western learning, known as rangaku (from oranda gaku, “Dutch knowledge”). Nevertheless, it wasn’t until 1858 that five ports, including Nagasaki, opened for general trade. America, Britain and other nations established diplomatic missions as Nagasaki’s foreign community mushroomed and its economy boomed. New inventions flooded in: the printing press, brick-making and modern shipbuilding techniques all made their Japanese debut in Nagasaki. Then came high-scale industrial development and, of course, the events of 1945.

Urakami and around

浦上

Almost all visitors to Nagasaki end up spending time in Urakami. Today, the district’s prosperous residential streets make it hard to imagine the scenes of utter devastation left by the atomic explosion on August 9, 1945, though there are a number of sights here pertaining to that catastrophic event; you’ll need at least half a day to do this area justice.

Atomic Bomb Museum

長崎原爆資料館, Nagasaki Genbaku Shiryōkan • 7-8 Hirano-machi • Museum Daily: May–Aug 8.30am–6.30pm; Sept–April 8.30am–5.30pm • ¥200 • Peace Memorial Hall Same hours • Free • 095 844 1231, city.nagasaki.lg.jp

Located in the northerly suburb of Urakami, Nagasaki’s much-vaunted Atomic Bomb Museum is entered via a symbolic, spiralling descent. Views of prewar Nagasaki then lead abruptly into a darkened room full of twisted iron girders, blackened masonry and videos constantly scrolling through horrific photos of the dead and dying. It’s strong stuff, occasionally too much for some, but the most moving exhibits are always those single fragments of an individual life – a charred lunchbox, a twisted pair of glasses or the chilling shadow of a man etched on wooden planks.

The purpose of the museum isn’t merely to shock, and the displays are packed with information, much of it in English, tracing the history of atomic weapons, the effects of the bomb and the heroic efforts of ill-equipped emergency teams who had little idea what they were facing. There’s a fascinating video library of interviews with survivors, including some of the foreigners present in Nagasaki at the time; figures vary, but probably more than 12,000 non-nationals were killed in the blast, mostly Korean forced labour working in the Mitsubishi shipyards, as well as Dutch, Australian and British prisoners of war. The museum then broadens out to examine the whole issue of nuclear weapons and ends with a depressing video about the arms race and test ban treaties.

Just outside the museum, in Hypocentre Park, an austere black pillar marks the precise spot where the bomb exploded 500m above the ground, while the Peace Memorial Hall, right by the museum, is another place for quiet reflection: its centrepiece is a remembrance hall where the names of victims are recorded in 141 volumes.

NAGASAKI ORIENTATION

Nagasaki’s principal sights are widely spread, starting in the north in the district of Urakami, home of the Peace Park and the gruelling but informative Atomic Bomb Museum. From Urakami, it’s a tram ride down to Nagasaki Station and a gentle stroll along the slopes of Nishizaka from the 26 Martyrs’ Memorial, via an informative history museum, to its most imposing shrine, Suwa-jinja. Nagasaki’s Chinatown takes up much of the city centre, which also features a row of quiet temples, the former Dutch enclave of Dejima and, by night, the bars and clubs of Shianbashi. Down in the far south, several European houses have been preserved on the former hilltop concession, now known as Glover Garden, overlooking Nagasaki’s magnificent harbour and a colourful Confucian shrine.

The Peace Park

平和公園, Heiwa Kōen

A few hundred metres north of the Atomic Bomb Museum, a long flight of steps leads up into the Peace Park, as popular with young kids skateboarding among the donated plaques and memorials as it is with anti-nuclear lobbyists trawling for signatures. The park is watched over by sculptor Kitamura Seibō’s muscular Peace Statue, unveiled in 1955: the figure’s right hand points skyward at the threat of nuclear destruction, while its left hand is extended to hold back the forces of evil.

Urakami Cathedral

浦上天主堂, Urakami Tenshudō • 1-79 Moto-machi • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Free

From Peace Park you can see the twin red-brick towers of Urakami Cathedral, dominating a small rise 400m to the east. The present building is a postwar replica of the original, which was completed in 1925 and destroyed when the atomic bomb exploded only 500m away. The blast left scorch marks on the statues now preserved at the top of the steps, and tore off huge chunks of masonry, including a section of the bell tower which still rests on the bank under the north wall. Inside the south door, a chapel is dedicated to the “Bombed Mary”, from whose charred face stare sightless eyes.

Inasa-yama

稲佐山 • Ropeway Daily 9am–10pm; closed first 10 days of Dec • Every 20min • ¥720 one-way, ¥1230 return • 095 861 3640, nagasaki-ropeway.jp • Bus #3 or #4 from Nagasaki train station to Ropeway-mae bus stop, or tram to Takaramachi and a walk across the river; entrance is up some steps in the grounds of a shrine

Nagasaki is not short of good viewpoints, but none can compare with the spectacular night-time panorama from Inasa-yama, a 333m-high hill to the west of the city. A ropeway, or cable-car, whisks you up there in just five minutes. From the top, you get stunning views of the contorted local coastline, as well as the confetti of nearby islands and islets.

Nishizaka

西坂

Just east of the train station, the hilly Nishizaka area provides a real counterpoint to Urakami, featuring some fantastic hillside Zen temples and an excellent museum. Below Suwa-jinja, the Nakashima-gawa flows west towards central Nagasaki under a succession of stone bridges linked by a riverside walk that’s particularly pleasant after dark; the most noteworthy bridge here is the double-arched, much-photographed Megane-bashi, aptly named “Spectacles Bridge”, which is Japan’s oldest stone bridge, dating from 1634.

26 Martyrs’ Memorial

日本二十六聖人記念館, Nihon Nijūroku Seijin Kinenkan • 7-8 Nishizaka-machi • Museum daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 26martyrs.com

In 1597, six foreign missionaries and twenty Japanese converts were the unlucky victims of the shogunate’s growing unease at the power of the Church. They were marched from Kyoto and Osaka to Nagasaki, where they were crucified on February 2 as a warning to others. The group was canonized in 1862, and a century later the 26 Martyrs’ Memorial was erected on the site to commemorate Japan’s first Christian martyrs, comprising a bizarre, mosaic-clad church, an outdoor memorial shrine and a small museum telling the history of the martyrs and of Christianity in Japan. A surprising amount survives, including tissue-thin prayer books hidden in bamboo and statues of the Virgin Mary disguised as the goddess Kannon. One document records the bounties offered to informers: 500 silver pieces per priest, down to 100 for a lowly catechist.

AUGUST 9, 1945

In the early twentieth century, Nagasaki became an important naval base with huge munitions factories that supplied Japan’s wars in China and the rest of Asia, making it an obvious target for America’s second atomic bomb in 1945. Even so, it was only poor visibility at Kokura, near Kita-Kyūshū, that forced the bomber, critically short of fuel, south to Nagasaki. The weather was bad there too, but as the B-29 bomber Bock’s Car flew down the Urakami-gawa at 11am on August 9, a crack in the cloud revealed a sports stadium just north of the factories and shipyards. A few moments later “Fat Boy” exploded. It’s estimated that over 70,000 people died in the first few seconds; 75,000 were injured and nearly forty percent of the city’s houses were destroyed by the blast and its raging fires. By 1950, radiation exposure and other after-effects had increased the death toll to 140,000. Horrific though these figures are, they would have been higher had the valley walls not contained much of the blast; a spur of hills shielded southern Nagasaki from the worst of the damage. An American naval officer visiting the city a few weeks later described his awe at the “deadness, the absolute essence of death in the sense of finality without resurrection. It’s everywhere and nothing has escaped its touch.” But the city, at least, did rise again; like fellow bomb-victim Hiroshima, it’s now a centre for anti-nuclear protest, and hosts many ardent campaigns for world peace.

Fukusai-ji

福済寺 • 2-56 Chikugo-machi • Daily 7am–5pm • Free

The original Zen temple, Fukusai-ji, was founded in 1628, destroyed in 1945 by the bomb, then replaced with a quirky, turtle-shaped building, topped by an 18m-tall, aluminium-alloy statue of the goddess Kannon and a circle of supplicating infants. Inside the temple, a 25m-long Foucault’s pendulum represents a perpetual prayer for peace, oscillating over the remains of 16,500 Japanese war dead buried underneath. For the best views of the goddess, head up the hill to the graveyard behind the temple; with high-rise buildings stretching towards the ocean, it brings to mind Rio’s Christ the Redeemer, and makes for a particularly beautiful view at sunset.

Shōfuku-ji

聖福寺 • 3-77 Tamazono-machi • Daily 24hr • Free

Showing its age somewhat, the Zen temple Shōfuku-ji, which originally dates from the early seventeenth century, was rebuilt in 1715 and survived the bomb. Inside the imposing gateway you’ll find an attractive collection of aged wooden buildings surrounded by rustling bamboo stands and shady trees. Its main attributes are some detailed carving on the gates and unusual decorative features such as the red balustrade around the worship hall.

Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture

長崎歴史文化博物館, Nagasaki Rekishi Bunka Hakubutsukan • 1-1-1 Tateyama • Daily: April–Nov 8.30am–7pm; Dec–March 8.30am–6pm • ¥600 • 095 818 8366, nmhc.jp

The engaging Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture focuses on the city’s role as a conduit for cultural exchange. It’s set in a pretty building in a large, grassy compound that’s worth visiting even if you don’t fancy seeing the exhibits. Inside, there are plenty of original materials, including an exquisite seventeenth-century folding screen depicting British and Dutch ships in Nagasaki harbour, and the first Japanese–English dictionary compiled by Dutch interpreters in 1814. Alongside scale models and videos, there’s a room devoted to local crafts, some showing distinctly foreign influences, and you exit through a reconstruction of the Nagasaki Magistrate’s office.

Suwa-jinja

諏訪神社 • 18-15 Kaminishiyama-machi • 24hr • Free; fortune papers ¥200

Accessed via a challenging flight of steep steps, Suwa-jinja is Nagasaki’s major shrine. It was founded in 1625 when the shogunate was promoting Shintoism in opposition to the Christian Church. Its main hall, rebuilt in 1869, is fresh and simple, but for most foreigners its greatest attraction is the English-language fortune papers on sale beside the collecting box. The grounds are scattered with unusual subsidiary shrines, notably two koma-inu (guardian lions) known as the stop lions, where people vowing to give up unwanted habits fasten paper strings around the front legs, like plaster casts; you’ll find them just around the corner from the main hall.

Chinatown and around

新地中華街, Shinchi Chūka-gai

Much of central Nagasaki is taken up by an elaborate-looking Chinatown.

From the seventeenth to the nineteenth centuries, Nagasaki’s Chinese community – like the Dutch on Dejima, now the wider area’s prime attraction – was restricted to a designated patch surrounded by high walls; only men were permitted to live there, but at certain times its population rose above a thousand, including Vietnamese-Chinese and Thai-Chinese traders. Today, four elaborate gates signpost Chinatown’s colourful grid of six blocks packed with shops and restaurants.

Dejima

出島 • Daily: mid-July to early Oct 8am–7pm; early Oct to mid-July 8am–6pm • ¥510 • nagasakidejima.jp • Dejima tram stop for west entrance, Tsuki-machi tram stop for east entrance

Immediately northwest of Chinatown, the old Dutch enclave of Dejima, which provided Japan’s only access to the Western world for over two hundred years, has been ambitiously re-created, to outstanding effect. Built in 1636 as a tiny artificial island, Dejima was intended to house Portuguese traders, but in 1639, a year after the end of the Shimabara Rebellion, they were expelled from Japan for evangelizing and smuggling. In stepped the enterprising Dutch, who were prepared to transfer their trading post from nearby Hirado to this virtual prison in 1641 and to pay the equivalent, in today’s terms, of ¥100 million rent each year for the privilege. As vividly evoked in David Mitchell’s novel The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet, only about a dozen men employed by the Dutch East India Company (the VOC) were permitted to live on Dejima under strict rules, visited from the mainland only by civil servants and prostitutes.

KUNCHI MATSURI

Each autumn, Suwa-jinja hosts the famous Kunchi Matsuri (Oct 7–9). This festival is believed to have originated in 1633 when two geisha performing a nō dance attracted huge crowds during celebrations to mark the ninth day of the ninth lunar month. Gradually, European and Chinese elements were incorporated – this was one of the few occasions when Dutch merchants were allowed to leave Dejima – and the jollities now consist of dragon dances and heavy floats, some fashioned as Chinese and Dutch ships, being spun round outside the shrine.

The site

The island was swallowed up in later land reclamations, but the buildings have now been lovingly replicated exactly as they were in the 1820s, and in the exact positions suggested by excavations. (The 1820s were chosen partly because at that time the Dutch made a highly accurate scale model – now in the possession of the University of Leiden – of this most peculiar outpost, right down to the wallpaper, to satisfy the curiosity of people back home in the Netherlands.) It’s best to start at the west gate, where the Chief Factor’s Residence is the ghetto’s grandest edifice, a strange fusion of Dutch style and Japanese craftsmanship, covered in green ship’s paint on the outside and chrysanthemum wallpaper inside – for which local artisans were obliged to use small sheets of fusuma paper printed with woodblocks. The tatami-matted dining room is laid out for a lavish meal to celebrate the winter solstice (like all other displays of Christianity, Christmas was banned). The fascinating exhibition, most of which is translated into English, continues in the nearby, hi-tech Clerk’s Quarters, where you’ll learn that striped fabric – so commonly used for kimono today – was introduced to Japan by the VOC from India. Every day, Japanese officials used to cross the only, heavily guarded bridge from the mainland (currently under reconstruction) to keep an eye on the Dutch from the Town Elder’s Room, a purely Japanese building right opposite the main gate.

Note that ticket-holders can access a decent on-site restaurant, the Nairai Club, which makes a good lunch spot.

Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum

長崎県美術館, Nagasaki-ken Bijutsukan • 2-1 Dejima-machi • Daily 10am–8pm; closed second & fourth Mon of month • ¥400 • 095 833 2110, www.nagasaki-museum.jp

A couple of minutes’ walk southwest of Dejima, the modern Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum occupies a splendidly airy building on the waterfront. Designed by Kengo Kuma, it has great views of the port from its roof terrace and a lovely café. The museum is particularly strong on Spanish art, including works by Picasso, Dalí and Miró, and Meiji-era art from Nagasaki, though only part of the collection is on show at any one time.

MADAME BUTTERFLY

Puccini’s opera, written in the early twentieth century, tells the story of an American lieutenant stationed in Nagasaki who marries a Japanese woman known as Madame Butterfly. Whereas she has given up her religion and earned the wrath of her family to enter the marriage, Lt. Pinkerton treats the marriage far less seriously, and is soon posted back to the US. Unknown to Pinkerton, Butterfly has given birth to their son and is waiting faithfully for his return when he arrives back in Nagasaki three years later. Butterfly pretties up her house and prepares to present her child to the proud father. Pinkerton, meanwhile, has remarried in America and brings his new wife to meet the unsuspecting Butterfly. When he offers to adopt the child, poor Butterfly agrees and tells him to come back later. She then embraces her son and falls on her father’s sword.

The opera was adapted from a play by David Belasco, though some attribute it to a book by Frenchman Pierre Loti who wrote Madame Chrysanthème after spending a month in Nagasaki in 1885 with a young Japanese woman called Kane. Whatever its origin, the opera was not well received at its debut and Puccini was forced to rewrite Pinkerton and his American wife in a more sympathetic light. Efforts to trace the real Pinkerton have led to a William B. Franklin, but there are many contenders; it was common practice in the late nineteenth century for Western males stationed in Japan to “marry” a geisha in order to secure their companion’s faithfulness and reduce the spread of venereal disease. In return, they provided accommodation plus some remuneration. As soon as the posting ended, however, the agreement was considered null and void on both sides.

THOMAS GLOVER

Scotsman Thomas Glover arrived in Nagasaki from Shanghai in 1859, aged just 21, and became involved in various enterprises, including arms dealing. In the mid-1860s, rebels seeking to overthrow the shogun approached Glover for his assistance. Not only did he supply them with weapons, he also furthered their revolutionary cause by smuggling some of them abroad to study, including Ito Hirobumi, who eventually served as prime minister in the new Meiji government. For this, and his subsequent work in modernizing Japanese industry, Glover was awarded the Second Class Order of the Rising Sun – a rare honour – shortly before his death in Tokyo, aged 73.

Glover built the bungalow now known as Glover House in 1863, where he lived with his wife Tsuru, a former geisha, and his son from an earlier liaison, Tomisaburō. After his father’s death, Tomisaburō was a valued member of both the Japanese and foreign business communities, but as Japan slid towards war in the mid-1930s his companies were closed and he came under suspicion as a potential spy. Forced to move out of Glover House, with its bird’s-eye view of the harbour, and kept under virtual house arrest, he committed suicide two weeks after the atomic bomb flashed above Nagasaki.

Sōfuku-ji

崇福寺 • 7-5 Kajiya-machi • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥300

Near the southern end of Teramachi-dōri, which is lined with temples on one side and neighbourhood shops on the other, you’ll see signs pointing left to Sōfuku-ji. This is Nagasaki’s most important Chinese Zen temple, founded in 1629 by Fujian immigrants and containing a monumental red gate among other rare examples of Ming-period Chinese architecture.

South of the centre

Perhaps the most charming Nagasaki neighbourhoods are those just south of the centre – a short hop by tram (Ishibashi station is your best bet), though also a pleasant walk over the rise from Chinatown. You’ll often find the area thronging with tourists, most of whom are here to see wonderful Glover Garden, and the historic cathedral sitting beneath it.

Ōura Cathedral

大浦天主堂, Ōura Tenshudō • 5-3 Minamiyamate-machi • Daily 8am–4pm • ¥1000

From the seafront, a parade of souvenir shops races up to Ōura Cathedral, Japan’s oldest extant Christian place of worship. A pretty little white structure housing exhibits in English on the history of Christianity in Japan, it was built by French missionaries in 1864 to serve Nagasaki’s growing foreign community. A few months later Father Petitjean was astonished to find outside his door a few brave members of Nagasaki’s “hidden Christians” who had secretly kept the faith for more than two centuries.

Glover Garden

グラバー園, Gurabā-en • 8-1 Minamiyamate-machi • Daily: mid-July to early Oct & around Golden Week (late April/early May) 8am–9.30pm; rest of year 8am–6pm • ¥610 • 095 822 8223, glover-garden.jp • Free lift (AKA the “Sky Road”) from Ishibashi tram stop, then a free lift up to garden entrance

Despite the crowds, and day-round piped music, pretty Glover Garden is well worth a visit. As well as offering some of Nagasaki’s best views, it features seven late nineteenth-century, European-style buildings, each typically colonial with wide verandas, louvred shutters and high-ceilinged, spacious rooms. The houses also contain odds and ends of furniture and evocative photos of the pioneering inhabitants they once housed.

The best approach is to take the “Sky Road” up to the garden’s upper entrance and work down. From here, the first building you’ll come across is Walker House, a modest bungalow built in the 1870s for the British-born captain of a Japanese passenger ship after he helped provide transport for government troops in the Satsuma Rebellion. On retiring from the sea in 1898 he joined Thomas Glover, the bluff’s most colourful and illustrious resident, in setting up Japan’s first soft drinks company, which produced a popular line in “Banzai Lemonade” and “Banzai Cider” and eventually became Kirin Brewery. Glover’s house, the oldest Western-style building in Japan, is worth a look around, as are those formerly belonging to Frederick Ringer, founder of the Nagasaki Press, and tea merchant William Alt.

BATTLESHIP ISLAND

Jutting out of the sea about 20km southwest off Nagasaki lies the city’s most fascinating attraction, and one that may well be familiar as it was re-created for a menacing scene in the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall. Properly known as Hashima, it’s more commonly referred to as Gunkan-jima, or “Battleship Island”; this may sound like a board game or pirate film, but the reality is far more interesting.

Gunkan-jima was once one of Japan’s most important sources of coal, and from 1890 to 1974 it was inhabited by hundreds of miners and their families, with a population of over 5000 at its high point around 1960; slag from the mine was used to enlarge the island from a small, steep-sided rock. This dense concentration of people gave Japan a sneak preview of what it has become today – Gunkan-jima boasted the country’s first ever high-rise concrete buildings (complete with rooftop farms), which together with the island’s high sea walls make it appear from a distance like some huge and rather monstrous ship, hence the name. For a time it functioned quite well, with just enough schools, shops and housing – plus a cinema and pachinko hall – to keep its tiny population satisfied. However, development in mainland Japan soon raced ahead, giving this brave attempt at urban utopia a relatively improverished appearance. Its fate was sealed when the domestic coal industry collapsed in the mid-1970s; the island was abandoned and left to decay.

Gunkan-jima only opened to tourists in 2009, and it is now possible to visit on short trips. Interest has ballooned since the place inspired the scene from Skyfall – if you look anything like Daniel Craig or Javier Bardem (in other words, male and white), you may well become photo-fodder for local tourists. Once on the island, you’ll be taking plenty of pictures yourself, as it’s unique, and quite spectacular – with a little imagination, you’ll discern echoes of Cappadocian caves, Pompeii or (suitably, given its proximity to Nagasaki) a nuclear disaster.

Five companies run tours, including Gunkanjima Cruise, who offer an English audio guide for the whole trip, as well as online booking ( gunkanjima-cruise.jp); otherwise, your accommodation or the tourist office should be able to book you a place. It’s wise to book at least a couple of days ahead (the most popular dates sometimes sell out two months in advance), and note that in bad weather it may not be possible to land on the island or trips can be cancelled altogether. Tours cost from ¥4500–5000 and last around 3hr, including a short guided tour on the island itself, where you’re restricted to a 200m-long walkway (there’s no access to the buildings, which have been left to the elements for over forty years).

The exit from Glover Garden takes you through the Museum of Traditional Performing Arts (same ticket), which displays the beautifully fashioned floats and other paraphernalia used during the Kunchi festivities.

The Dutch Slopes

オランダ坂, Oranda-Saka • Museum Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥1000

On the opposite bluff to Glover Garden, and divided from it by a small stream, is a prettified hillside district known as the Dutch Slopes. Though it’s only a short walk from Glover Garden and the cathedral, few visitors bother to venture into this area, which is centred on the Higashi-yamate (東山手) clutch of blue, wooden Western-style buildings that have been preserved on roads still paved with their original flagstones. The first group of period wooden houses on the left consists of two neat rows: the lower row houses a photography museum displaying fascinating early photos of Nagasaki.

Kōshi-byō

孔子廟 • 10-36 Oura-machi • Daily 8.30am–5.30pm • ¥600

Walking along the Dutch slopes you can’t miss the bright yellow roofs of Kōshi-byō, nestling at the foot of the hill within its stout, red-brick wall. Interestingly, the land beneath this Confucian shrine, completed in 1893, belongs to China and is administered by the embassy in Tokyo. Its present pristine state is due to an extensive 1980s rebuild using materials imported from China, from the glazed roof tiles to the glittering white marble flagstones and the statues of Confucius’s 72 disciples that fill the courtyard.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NAGASAKI

By plane Nagasaki Airport ( 095 752 5555, nagasaki-airport.jp) occupies an artificial island in Ōmura Bay, 40km from town. It is served by three bus routes to the city, all of which pass Nagasaki Station (45min–1hr 10min; ¥1000), as well as by buses to Shimabara ferry terminal (1hr 50min; ¥1800) via Isahaya Station. It receives a few international flights from neighbouring Asian countries, including regular services from Seoul and Shanghai.

Destinations Kōbe (2–4 daily; 1hr); Nagoya (2–3 daily; 1hr 10min); Naha (1 daily; 1hr 35min); Osaka (Itami & Kansai; 8 daily; 1hr 5min); and Tokyo (Haneda; 1–2 hourly; 1hr 30min).

By train The train station is roughly 1km north of the main downtown area.

Destinations Fukuoka’s Hakata Station (1–2 hourly; 2hr); Huis ten Bosch (hourly; 1hr 30min); Isahaya (1–2 hourly; 25min).

By bus Most long-distance buses either stop outside the train station, or pull into Ken-ei bus station on the opposite side of the road.

Destinations Beppu (5 daily; 3hr 30min); Fukuoka (every 20–30min; 2hr 30min); Kumamoto (8 daily; 3hr 20min); Unzen (3–4 daily; 1hr 45min).

GETTING AROUND

By tram Given its elongated shape, Nagasaki’s sights are all fairly spread out. However, it’s one of the easier cities for getting around, thanks mainly to its cheap and easy tram system. There are five numbered lines, each identified and colour-coded on the front. Transfers on the same fare are allowed only at Tsuki-machi stop (ask for a transfer ticket, norikae-kippu). There’s a flat fare of ¥130 which you feed into the driver’s box on exit, or you can buy a one-day pass (¥500) at the tourist information centre and hotels. Some of these trolley cars are museum pieces which were snapped up when other Japanese cities were merrily ripping up their tramlines – the oldest dates from 1911.

By bus City buses are more complicated than trams, but the only time you’re likely to need them is to get to the Inasa-yama Ropeway.

Tours You can take night-time bus-tours of the city (daily 8.30pm, also 6pm Sept–April; ¥1500), which pick up from several central hotels; ask at the tourist information office for details

Car rental Nissan Rent-a-Car has an office near the station ( 095 825 1988) and at the airport ( 095 754 1688).

INFORMATION

Tourist information You can pick up city maps and pamphlets at the information office (daily 8am–8pm; travel.at-nagasaki.jp) inside the train station. There’s also an English-language call centre for the city ( 095 825 5175; daily 8am–8pm), and a good website run by Nagasaki Prefecture ( visit-nagasaki.com).

Hospital Harbour Medical Centre, 6-39 Shinchi-machi ( 095 822 3251), is an emergency hospital on the western edge of Chinatown.

Police 6-13 Okeya-machi ( 095 822 0110)..

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Nagasaki offers a broad range of rooms, widely dispersed around the city. Some hotels and hostels, including most of those listed below, can issue discount cards valid at many of Nagasaki’s sights.

Hostel Akari ホステルあかり 2-2 Kojiya-machi 095 801 7900, nagasaki-hostel.com. Home to pretty much every backpacker who swings through, and rightly so – dorms and en-suite private rooms alike are cosy places to bunk down, there’s a cool common room to relax in, and the riverside location is very pleasant. In addition, the knowledgeable, super-friendly staff are able – and, more importantly, willing – to advise on all things Nagasaki. Dorms ¥2700, doubles ¥6800

Belleview ベルビュー 1-20 Edo-machi 095 826 5030, hotel-belleview.com. Non-smoking, eco-friendly business hotel in a central location, with helpful and efficient service plus a restaurant and coin laundry. Computer available for guests. ¥10,280

NAGASAKI’S MULTINATIONAL CUISINE

Nagasaki’s most famous culinary speciality is shippoku, its own multicultural version of kaiseki-ryōri, in which various European, Chinese and Japanese dishes are served simultaneously in the Chinese style at a lacquered round table, to be shared between diners. It’s not cheap, starting at around ¥4000 per head; for the best shippoku you need to reserve the day before, although most of the big hotels also offer a less formal version.

Nagasaki’s other home-grown dishes include the cheap and cheerful champon, in which morsels of seafood, meat and vegetables are served with a dollop of thick noodles in a salty, milky soup; fusing Japanese ingredients and Chinese cooking techniques, it was invented in 1899 to comfort homesick Chinese students. Sara udon, an import from Hong Kong and southern China, blends similar ingredients into a thicker sauce on a pile of crispy noodle strands. One bizarre local dish is Toruko rice, an unwieldy fusion of spaghetti, rice, salad, breaded pork cutlet and curry sauce, all co-existing on the same plate; the first component of its name means “Turkish”, possibly due an old, erroneous presumption that Turkish folk, being exotic, eat curry.

If you’ve still got room for dessert, pick up some Castella (kasutera), a brick-like sponge cake which arrived with the Portuguese in the sixteenth century and is now sold all over town.

Cuore クオーレ長崎駅前 7-3 Daikoku-machi 095 818 9000, hotel-cuore.com. Spruce, eco-friendly, sound-proofed business hotel opposite the station, where the top floor is women-only. Everything you could possibly need, including trouser press and tea-making equipment, is squeezed into the smallest space imaginable in the single rooms (from ¥5900); double and twins are slightly more spacious. Coin laundry and computer available for guests. ¥7400

Garden Terrace ガーデンテラス 1-20 Akizuki-machi 095 864 7777, gt-nagasaki.jp. Imagine a giant Rubik’s Cube made of pine, and you’re halfway to visualizing award-winning architect Kengo Kuma’s stunning modern hotel. Sitting halfway up a mountain on the other side of the bay, its various suites are decked out with angular furniture, and each provides a wonderful city view – in some cases, even from the bathtub. The infinity-edge summertime pool shares the view, and there’s a private onsen. Breakfast included. ¥44,000

Hotel Nagasaki ホテル長崎 2-26 Takara-machi 095 821 1111, landowner.jp/english/nagasaki; Takara-machi tram stop. Two tram stops or a 10min walk north of the station, this welcoming luxury hotel (affiliated to Best Western) overlooks the train lines and the harbour. Above its opulent lobby, there’s a huge variety of spacious, sound-proofed accommodation, including Japanese-style rooms and a women-only floor. Discounts for advance bookings. ¥21,000

Nagasaki Kagamiya 長崎かゞみや 1-12-9 Hongouchi 095 895 8250, n-kagamiya.com; 5min walk from Hotarujaya tram stop, 6 stops east of the station on tram #3. Charming hostel offering dorms with bunk beds (female) or futons (male) and Japanese-style private rooms, as well as a computer and fridge in the cosy common area (no kitchen). The friendly, clued-up owners rent out beautiful antique kimono by the day. Free toast and coffee for breakfast. Dorms ¥2300, twins ¥5400

New Nagasaki 14-5 Daikoku-machi 095 826 8000, newnaga.com. Central Nagasaki’s top hotel, conveniently placed just outside the station, has all the trimmings: grand marble lobby, shopping arcade, several restaurants (Japanese, Chinese and Western), “cake boutique” and bar. The rooms are mostly Western-style, some boasting harbour views. Discounts for advance bookings. ¥27,000

Route 5-14 Nishizaki-machi 095 895 8965, nagasaki-route.com. Newer branch of Hostel Akari near the station, overlooking the 26 Martyrs’ Memorial church, and offering smart, individual cabin-like capsules, each with a small locker, light and power socket. The accommodation and a small kitchen are on the second floor, above a cool café and a bike rental outlet. Dorms ¥3900

EATING MAP

Chikyūkan 地球館 6-25 Higashi-yamate 095 822 7966. A fun little place in the delightful, late nineteenth-century wooden buildings on the Dutch Slopes, set up to promote international exchange. On normal days it’s a simple café serving English apple cake (¥300) and the like; at weekend lunchtimes, they dole out meals from a different country each week – over 70 nationalities so far – usually cooked by international students from the city universities. 10am–5pm; closed Tues & Wed.

Coffee Antique 南蛮茶屋 1-1 Higashifurukawa-machi 095 823 9084. The charming alleys east of “Spectacles Bridge” boast a few cute cafés, but this is the pick of the bunch, decked out with honey and brown tones – and yes, there are a few antiques lying around. Coffee and tea from ¥420. Daily 2–10pm.

Hamakatsu 浜勝 1-14 Kajiya-chō. Popular restaurant on Teramachi-dōri specializing in juicy tonkatsu (pork cutlets). Though it looks smart, with its gold signboard and iron lantern, prices are reasonable (¥1100–1700), with lunch sets starting as low as ¥700. Daily 10.30am–11pm.

Kagetsu 花月 2-1 Maruyama-machi 095 822 0191, ryoutei-kagetsu.co.jp. Set in a lovely, 375-year-old wooden building, a former geisha house that blends elements of Japanese, Chinese and Western design, with an exquisite traditional garden, this is the best spot in town for shippoku. Prices range from ¥8000–15,000; booking is essential and you need at least two people to order the full shippoku. Noon–3pm & 6–10pm; closed one day a week, usually Tues.

Kouzanrou 江山楼 12-2 Shinchi-machi 095 824 5000. Chinatown is packed with tempting restaurants, but this Fukien establishment is recommended for its reasonably priced champon and sara udon (both ¥860), as well as more mainstream Chinese dishes. Try to nab a table by the window. Daily 11am–8.30pm.

Mantoku 万徳 2-2 Dōza-machi 095 826 2600. More low-key in feel than many of Chinatown’s restaurants – arranged like an izakaya, and serving extremely tasty food. Most are here for the tantanmen (noodles with sasame paste) or mabo tofu (both ¥860, and both very spicy); also have a think about sampling their hand-made gyōza (¥450), served with interesting fillings including cheese and squid. Mon–Sat 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9.30pm.

Shikairou 四海樓 4F 4-5 Matsugae-machi 095 822 1296, shikairou.com. Perhaps the most popular place in town for sara udon or champon (both ¥1080) – it’s overpriced and over-touristy (especially when there’s a cruise ship in town), but with such winning views of the bay, who cares? Daily 11am–10pm.

Shippoku Hamakatsu 卓袱浜勝 6-50 Kajiya-chō 095 826 8321, sippoku.jp. Here’s where to head for a good-value shippoku meals – at lunchtimes, you can try a mini version for ¥3900, or the real thing from ¥5900; it’s best to reserve, and for a full shippoku they require a minimum of two people. Daily 11am–10pm.

Tsuruchan ツル茶ん 2-4-7 Aburaya-machi 095 824 2679. This claims to be the restaurant where Toruko rice, Nagasaki’s own piece of culinary Dadaism, was invented in 1925: whether this should invoke pride or shame is anyone’s guess. The “regular” variety of this irregular dish goes for ¥1280, and the place doubles as a decent, atmospheric little café. Daily 9am–10pm.

Yossō 吉宗 8-9 Hamano-machi 095 821 0001, yossou.co.jp. Famous 150-year-old restaurant specializing in chawan-mushi, a steamed egg custard laced with shrimp, shiitake mushroom, bamboo shoots and other goodies. You’ll pay around ¥750 for a basic bowl, or ¥1350 with rice and pickles; a teishoku will set you back ¥2400, and there’s also sushi and braised pork on the menu. Tinkling shamisen music sets the tone. Daily 11am–8pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Nagasaki’s entertainment area, Shianbashi (思案橋), has its own tram stop to the south of the Hamano-machi arcades. The name translates as “bridge of contemplation”, referring to men loitering on the bridge, deliberating whether or not to cross over into this former geisha district. The area is now packed with bars, clubs, pachinko parlours, izakaya and “soaplands” (seedy massage parlours), where nothing really gets going until 10pm and ends at dawn.

Bar IWI バーイウィ 1-9 Motoshikkui-machi. Run by a Kiwi and fittingly painted all black, this small, lively bar keeps its prices low (most drinks ¥500, apart from a few craft beers) to pull in the punters, who spill out onto the pavements of Harusame-dōri. Mon–Sat 8pm–3am.

Local ローカル 7-8 Dōza-machi 095 823 0022. This bright, friendly bar on a prominent corner just south of Kankō-dōri tram stop is standing only downstairs, but has a few picnic tables on the floor above. The imported beers on draught are good – try a four-brew sampler (¥900) – and there are plenty of mostly American craft beers in bottles. Daily 5pm–2am.

NAGASAKI FESTIVALS

Chinese New Year is celebrated in Chinatown with a Lantern Festival, dragon dances and acrobatic displays (late Jan to mid-Feb). Dragon-boat races, here called Peiron, were introduced by the Chinese in 1655 and still take place in Nagasaki harbour every summer (June–July). The last evening of Obon (Aug 15) is celebrated with a “spirit-boat” procession, when recently bereaved families lead lantern-lit floats down to the harbour. The biggest bash of the year occurs at the Kunchi Matsuri held in early Oct at Suwa-jinja.

Shimabara Hantō

East of Nagasaki, the Shimabara Hantō bulges out into the Ariake Sea, tethered to mainland Kyūshū by a neck of land just 5km wide. The peninsula owes its existence to the past volcanic fury of Unzen-dake, which still grumbles away, pumping out sulphurous steam, and occasionally spewing lava down its eastern flanks. Buddhist monks first came to the mountain in the eighth century, followed more than a millennium later by Europeans from nearby Nagasaki, attracted by the cool, upland summers. Even today, Unzen, a small onsen resort surrounded by pine trees and billowing clouds of steam, draws holiday-makers to its hot springs, malodorous “hells” and scenic hiking trails. One of the most popular outings is to the lava dome of Fugen-dake, which roared back into life in 1990 after two centuries of inactivity, and now smoulders menacingly above the old castle town of Shimabara – this was protected from the worst of the eruption by an older lava block, but still suffered considerable damage to its southern suburbs. Previously, Shimabara was famous largely for its association with a Christian-led rebellion in the seventeenth century when 37,000 peasants and their families were massacred. Both towns can be covered on a long day’s journey between Nagasaki and Kumamoto, but if time allows, Unzen makes a relaxing overnight stop.

GETTING AROUND SHIMABARA HANTŌ

Travel passes Shimatetsu passes for transport on the peninsula (¥2000/3000 for one/two days) cover the private train between Isahaya and Shimabara and buses from Isahaya and Shimabara to Unzen, as well as local buses in Shimabara.

Unzen

雲仙

Little more than a village, the lofty resort of UNZEN sits contentedly on a plateau of the same name. Its name means “fairyland among the clouds”, perhaps inspired by the pure mountain air and colourful flourishes of vegetation – azaleas in late spring, fiery-red leaves in the autumn and rime ice on the trees in winter. Competing for attention against this sumptuous backdrop are the town’s onsen, renowned for their silky-smooth, sulphur-rich water that’s good for the skin, and the spitting, scalding jigoku (地獄), whose name translates as “hells”. Unzen consists largely of resort hotels and souvenir shops strung out along the main road, but fortunately there’s plenty of space around and a variety of walking trails leads off into the surrounding national park. The best hikes explore the peaks of Unzen-dake; from the top of Fugen-dake you’re rewarded with splendid views of the Ariake Sea and, if you’re lucky, Aso-san’s steaming cauldron.

Brief history

A Shingon Buddhist priest is credited with “founding” Unzen when he built a temple here in 701 AD; the area developed into a popular retreat where up to a thousand monks could contemplate the 84,000 tortures awaiting wrongdoers in the afterlife as they gazed at Unzen’s bubbling mud pools. The first commercial onsen bath was opened in 1653, and two hundred years later Europeans arriving from Nagasaki, Hong Kong, Shanghai and east Russia prompted the development of a full-blown resort, complete with mock-Tudor hotels, dance halls and Japan’s first public golf course, laid out in 1913. The volcanic vents are less active nowadays but still emit evil, sulphurous streams and waft steam over a landscape of bilious-coloured clay. Only the hardiest of acid-tolerant plants can survive, and local hoteliers have added to the satanic scene by laying a mess of rusting, hissing pipes to feed water to their onsen baths.

UNZEN’S ONSEN

The nicest of Unzen’s public baths is the old-style Kojigoku Onsen (小地獄温泉; daily 9am–9pm; ¥420; seiunso.jp/kojigoku.html), which occupies two octagonal wooden buildings roughly ten minutes’ walk south of town; take the left turn just past the Fukuda-ya hotel. More central is Shin-yu (新湯; 9am–11pm, closed Wed; ¥100), a small but traditional bathhouse founded in 1878, overlooking a car park at the southern entrance to the jigoku. In addition, most hotels also open their baths to non-residents during the day, for a fee.

The jigoku

The jigoku provide an interesting hour’s diversion, particularly the more active eastern area. The paths are well signposted, with lots of maps and information along the way, and there’s also a descriptive English-language brochure available free at the information centre (see opposite). Daikyōkan Jigoku, the highest and most active “hell”, takes its name (“great shout”) from the shrill noise produced as it emits hydrogen sulphide steam at 120°C. The noise is likened to the cries of souls descending to hell, but could well be the howls of the 33 Christian martyrs commemorated on a nearby monument, who were scalded to death here around 1630 by the Shimabara lords. Another unhappy end is remembered at Oito Jigoku, which, according to legend, broke out the day a local adulteress, Oito, was executed for murdering her husband. The tiny, bursting bubbles of Suzume Jigoku, on the other hand, supposedly resemble the twittering of sparrows. Over in the western section, the main point of interest is Manmyō-ji temple, beside the Shimatetsu bus station. Founded nearly 1300 years ago, the temple is now home to a large gilded Shaka Buddha sporting a natty blue hairdo.

Fugen-dake

普賢岳 • Ropeway daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥630 one-way • Shared taxis (3 daily; 20min; ¥430 each way) from Unzen visitor centre to Nita Pass; taxis wait 1hr at the pass (enough time to take the Ropeway up and back but no more), and it’s possible to buy a one-way taxi ticket up to the pass for ¥430, then explore the mountain in your own time and walk back down to Unzen

While Unzen-dake is the name of the whole volcanic mass, Fugen-dake (1359m) refers to its central peak. Fugen-dake erupted for the first time in two hundred years in November 1990, reaching a crescendo in June 1991 when the dome collapsed, creating a newer cone, Heisei Shinzan (1483m), on its east side and sending an avalanche of mud and rocks through Shimabara town. Forty-three people were killed and nearly two thousand homes destroyed. There have been some minor rumbles since, but the eruption officially ended in 1996 and for now Fugen-dake just steams away gently.

A ropeway takes visitors up from Nita Pass to an observation platform to the southwest of Fugen-dake; cars run every twenty minutes, though not in bad weather or if the volcano is misbehaving. From the top station, you can walk up Fugen-dake in about an hour, or you could add on ninety minutes to two hours for a new loop trail that skirts within 400m of the top of Heisei Shinzan, for closer views of the new peak. For a satisfying day walk (5–6hr round trip from Unzen), you could climb the trails up to Nita Pass then take a much bigger loop that includes Fugen-dake and the slopes of Heisei Shinzan, before descending from Nita Pass the same way that you came up.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION UNZEN

By bus Direct buses leave from Nagasaki’s Ken-ei bus station (3–4 daily; 1hr 45min; ¥1800), or JR Pass holders can take the train to Isahaya Station (諫早; 1–2 hourly; 25min) and transfer to a Shimatetsu bus to Unzen (13 daily; 1hr 20min; ¥1350). Both of these services, as well as the Shimatetsu buses for the onward journey to Shimabara (12 daily; 50min; ¥830), stop at the station on the main road in the centre of Unzen.

Tourist information The Mt Unzen Visitor Centre at the south end of the main street (9am–5pm, closed Thurs; 0957 73 3636, unzenvc.com) provides maps and information about walks in the area, as well as exhibitions about the national park’s birds and plants. For general information about accommodation and transport, head next door to the Unzen Tourism Association Information Centre (daily 9am–5pm; 0957 73 3434, unzen.org).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Fukuda-ya 福田屋 South end of town, near the start of the Nagasaki road 0957 73 2151, fukudaya.co.jp. A modern hotel with good-sized rooms and a choice of rotemburo (open to non-residents noon–9pm; ¥1000). Even if you’re not staying, try the hotel restaurant’s Hayashi rice, a tasty dish of beef hash with rice that was invented in the nineteenth century for Western visitors from China. Restaurant daily 11am–2.30pm. Half-board ¥23,600

Tsudoi 集 On the main square next to the bus station 0957 60 4225, unzen-tsudoi.jp. Friendly, helpful hostel above a stylish café-bar, where there’s a small kitchen area for guests. The two attractive dorms (mixed and women-only) feature capsule-like bunk beds and smart, well-equipped bathrooms. Guests get free tickets to the Yunosato Onsen, a nearby public bathhouse. Dorms ¥3600

Unzen Miyazaki Ryokan 雲仙宮崎旅館 Just off the south end of the main street 0957 73 3331, miyazaki-ryokan.co.jp. Excellent traditional ryokan with immaculate standards of service and three lovely rotemburo (for men, women and families). Superb kaiseki dinners – seasonal and featuring plenty of local seafood – are served in the guest rooms, which overlook the eastern jigoku and the wooded hills behind; indeed, the hotel has its own jigoku in its pretty, formal garden. Free daily shuttle bus from Nagasaki and Isahaya stations. ¥40,000

Shimabara

島原

With its superb castle and the brooding, volcanic backdrop of Fugen-dake, the small port town of SHIMABARA makes for a pleasingly relaxed stay, or a day-trip from Nagasaki, Kumamoto or Unzen. Its quiet streets, which are lined with spring-fed streams, run parallel to the coast for more than 2km from the southerly Shimabara-kō ferry terminal to the main centre, Ōte, just below the castle. Following the ructions of the Shimabara Rebellion, the place was decimated when Unzen-dake erupted in 1792. An estimated 15,000 people died in the disaster, mostly from huge tsunamis that swept the Ariake Sea. The volcano then lay dormant until Fugen-dake burst into life again in 1990 and cut a swathe through the town’s southern reaches. To the outsider, there’s little visible evidence of the devastation wreaked by the mud flows, beyond some heavy-duty retaining walls aimed at channelling any future flows directly down to the sea.

Shimabara-jō

島原城 • Daily 9am–5.30pm • Grounds free; museum ¥540 • 0957 62 4766, shimabarajou.com

Completed in 1625, Shimabara-jō castle took seven years to build – it was partly the taxes and hard labour demanded for its construction that provoked the Shimabara Rebellion. The reconstructed turrets contain a museum, spread among three buildings – most interesting is the main keep, which features local history exhibits, including relics of clandestine Christian worship, and an awesome observation deck on the fifth floor. The modern building on the west side shows a short film about Fugen-dake, while fans of Nagasaki’s Peace Statue will be interested in the Kitamura Seibō Memorial Museum located in the southeast turret. Kitamura, a local sculptor who died in 1987, specialized in powerful bronzes, the best of them gripped by a restless, pent-up energy.

Bukeyashiki

武家屋敷 • Houses daily 9am–5.30pm • Free • 0957 63 1087

A few remnants of the old castle-town still exist. Five minutes’ walk northwest of the castle, Bukeyashiki is a pretty little unpaved street of samurai houses, which runs north–south for 400m around a stream, flanked by trees and the original Cyclopean stone walls. You can wander round the gardens and peek inside three of the grander, thatched houses towards the street’s northern end.

THE SHIMABARA REBELLION

In 1637, exorbitant taxes and the oppressive cruelty of two local daimyō sparked off a large-scale peasant revolt in the Shimabara area, though the underlying motive was anger at the Christian persecutions taking place at the time. Many of the rebels were Christian, including their leader, a 16-year-old boy known as Amakusa Shirō, who was supposedly able to perform miracles. His motley army of 37,000, which included women and children, eventually sought refuge in abandoned Hara castle, roughly 30km south of Shimabara town. For three months they held off far-superior government forces, but even Shirō couldn’t save them when Hara was stormed in April 1638 and, so it’s said, all 37,000 were massacred. Rightly or wrongly, Portuguese missionaries were implicated in the rebellion, and soon afterwards all foreigners were banished from Japan as the country closed its doors.

Shimabara Yūsuikan

しまばら湧水館 • 800m southeast of the castle entrance • Daily 8.30am–6pm • Kanzarashi making ¥300 • 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm • 0957 63 1111

The welcoming Shimabara Yūsuikan, a hundred-year-old summer house, is decorated with lovely carved screens of red hemlock wood and set in a pretty garden. You can have a go at making the local speciality kanzarashi, riceflour dumplings soaked in a light syrup with spring water.

Shimeisō

四明荘 • Just south of Shimabara Yusuikan on the same side of the road • Daily 9am–6pm • Free • 0957 63 1121

Shimeisō is a restored “water villa”, open-sided and set on stilts above a spring-water pond filled with carp. Relax over a free cup of green tea, enjoying the lovely garden of miniature trees, rocks and moss.

Mount Unzen Disaster Memorial Hall

雲仙岳災害記念館, Unzen-dake Saigai Kinenkan • Highway 251, 5km south of central Shimabara • Daily 9am–6pm, last entry 5pm • ¥1000 (¥800 with discount coupon from tourist office) • 0957 65 5555, www.udmh.or.jp • Shimatetsu bus from Ōte (via Shimabara-kō ferry terminal) to Arena-iriguchi stop (1–3 hourly; 15min)

At the foot of the 1991 lava flow, the Mount Unzen Disaster Memorial Hall (aka Gamadasu Dome) contains a moderately interesting museum commemorating the eruption. There’s an English audio guide to the exhibits, of which the most accessible are videos of the disaster and a technologically impressive but ultimately rather tacky Great Eruption Theatre which places you in the middle of the pyroclastic flows.

Suffer House Preservation Park

土石流被災家屋保存公園, Dosekiryū Hisai Kaoku Hozon Kōen • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 0957 72 7222, mizunashi-honjin.co.jp • Take Shimatetsu bus (covered by the one-day pass) south from Ōte via Shimabara-kō ferry terminal, and get off at Arena-iriguchi stop (1–3 hourly; 15min)

A solemn memorial to the dead from 1991, the Suffer House Preservation Park is a small area of half-buried houses. The houses are preserved beneath two plastic domes, about ten minutes’ walk across the river from the Memorial Hall (see above); don’t go expecting Pompeii, but the area is certainly worth the effort to get to.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SHIMABARA

By train From Isahaya Station (諫早), which is connected to Nagasaki by JR services (1–2 hourly; 25min), trains on the private Shimatetsu line run east to Shimabara (1–2 hourly; 1hr–1hr 15min; ¥1430). They stop at the main Shimabara Station, a couple of minutes’ walk east of Ōte, and then continue three more stops to Shimabara-Gaikō Station, just inland of the ferry port.

By bus Buses from Unzen (12 daily; 45min; ¥750) call at Shimabara-kō before proceeding into town, where they either terminate at the Shimatetsu bus station or stop a little further on in Ōte.

By ferry High-speed and regular ferries sail from Kumamoto-kō (熊本港): Kumamoto Ferry ( 096 311 4100, kumamotoferry.co.jp) runs the high-speed ferries (6–7 daily; 30min; ¥1000), while Kyūsho Ferry ( 096 329 6111, kyusho-ferry.co.jp) operates the regular service (10 daily; 1hr; ¥780). From Shimabara-kō, buses run to the central Shimabara Station (2–4 hourly; 10min; ¥170).

Tourist information The main tourist office (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 0957 62 3986, shimabaraonsen.com) is inside the Shimabara-kō port building. It provides good English-language maps and brochures, and rents out bikes for ¥150/hr and electric bicycles for ¥300/hr (also available at Shimabara Station). There’s also a tourist office in the centre near Shimabara Yūsuikan (daily 9am–6pm; 0957 64 2450).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Aoi Rihatsu-kan 青い理髪館 888-2 Ueno-machi 0957 64 6057. Eighty-year-old café immediately east of the castle (look out for the blue clapboard building) in an old barber shop. They serve a limited range of set lunches on weekdays and delightful home-baked cakes and cookies. Mon 10.30am–5pm, Tues–Sun 10.30am–6pm; closed one day a week (day varies).

Himematsu-ya 姫松屋 1-1208-3 Jonai, opposite Shimabara-jō entrance 0957 63 7272. Popular restaurant serving Shimabara’s speciality food, guzōni – a delicious clam broth packed with rice cakes, fish, pork, lotus root, tofu and egg – at ¥980 for a regular portion or ¥1180 for large. It also offers a choice of well-priced sets and mainstream Japanese dishes. Daily 11am–7pm.

Inohara 猪原金物店 9-12 Ueno-machi 0957 62 3117, inohara.jp. At the back of this traditional, 140-year-old ironmonger’s, there’s a delightful patio by a small pond, where you can tuck into handmade somen (thin wheatflour noodles; from ¥680), delicious tonkatsu curry sets (¥1200), cakes, desserts (including kanzarashi) and coffee. Also hosts theatre, storytelling and art events. 11am–6pm; closed Wed.

Nampuro ホテル南風楼 On the seashore near Shimatetsu Honsha-mae, one station from Shimabara 0957 62 5111, nampuro.com. This sprawling, welcoming hotel offers great views of the Ariake Sea, notably from its outdoor and indoor rooftop onsen. Smart rooms come in all shapes and sizes, both Western- and Japanese-style, some with their own outdoor or semi-outdoor onsen. Free bicycles for guests. ¥19,000

Shimabara Mizuyashiki しまばら水屋敷 513 Yorozu-machi, in the shopping arcade southeast of the castle 0957 62 8555. One of several Meiji-era houses in the area, this place serves drinks and snacks – and somen noodles in summer – above a delightful garden and spring-fed pond. Daily 11am–5pm.

Shimabara Station Hotel 島原ステーションホテル 930 Imagawa-machi 0120 711 163. “Adequate” sums up this business hotel, which is nothing special bar the complimentary soft drinks on offer, but with prices that are at least within reach of budget travellers (although you’ll usually pay ¥1000 more for a double, versus a twin). ¥6500

Kumamoto

熊本

A fair proportion of travellers to Kyūshū find themselves in KUMAMOTO at some point. Not only is the city handily located between Fukuoka in the north and Kagoshima down south, but it also lies within striking distance of Aso to the east and Shimabara and Unzen to the west; it’s possible to pop by and tick off the main sights in between (or on a day-trip from) any of these places, but the city itself is attractive and rewards an overnight stay. Chief among its sights is the fearsome, fairy-tale castle dominating the town centre, though for a little while it will only be possible to admire this at a distance: in April 2016, Kumamoto suffered a magnitude-7 earthquake, which killed around fifty people, injured three thousand and severely damaged the fortress. Restoration is ongoing, and there’s little evidence of the quake’s effects elsewhere in the city, where sights include the excellent Prefectural Traditional Crafts Centre and Suizenji-jōjuen, one of Japan’s most highly rated gardens, in the eastern suburbs. Wars and development have meant that little else of particular note survives, though you’ve got to admire a city which invented the endearingly offbeat “Kobori-style” swimming, which “involves the art of swimming in a standing posture attired in armour and helmet”.

Brief history

Kumamoto owes its existence to the Katō clan, who were given the fiefdom in the late sixteenth century in return for supporting Tokugawa Ieyasu during his rise to power. Katō Kiyomasa, first of the feudal lords, not only built a magnificent fortress but is also remembered for his public works, such as flood control and land reclamation. However, political intrigue resulted in the Katō being ousted in 1632 in favour of the Hosokawa clan, who had previously held Kokura. Thirteen generations of Hosokawa lords ruled Kumamoto for more than two centuries, during which time the city thrived as Kyūshū’s major government stronghold, until feudal holdings were abolished in 1871. Six years later, the final drama of the Meiji Restoration was played out here when Saigō Takamori’s rebel army was defeated by government troops, but not before destroying much of Kumamoto’s previously impregnable castle.

Kumamoto-jō

熊本城 • Keep Daily 9am – 5pm • ¥210

Completed in 1607 after only seven years’ work, Kumamoto-jō is Japan’s third-largest castle (after Osaka and Nagoya) and one of its most formidable. It was, however, powerless to resist the April 2016 earthquake, which brought down roofs, outbuildings and even parts of the outer wall. Complete reconstruction will take decades, but at the time of writing, the city was gearing up to re-establish public access to the main keep. In addition, it remains worth walking up through the park on the castle’s west flank to appreciate its architecture as well as the power of the earthquake.

Kumamoto-jō was designed by lord Katō Kiyomasa, a brilliant military architect who combined superb fortifications with exquisitely graceful flourishes – as Alan Booth observed in The Roads to Sata, the main keep seems like “a fragile bird poised for flight”. At its peak, the castle had an outer perimeter of 13km and over 5km of inner wall built in what’s called musha-gaeshi style, meaning that no invading warrior could scale their smooth, gently concave surfaces. In case of prolonged attack, 120 wells were sunk, while camphor and ginkgo trees provided firewood and edible nuts. These defences were severely tested during the 1877 Satsuma Rebellion, when Saigō Takamori’s army besieged Kumamoto-jō for fifty days. Government reinforcements eventually relieved the garrison, soon after trouncing the rebels. Though the castle held, most of its surrounding buildings were burnt to the ground and left in ruins until 1960, when the complex was magnificently restored.

The best approach to the castle is from its south side, which brings you up into the grassy expanse of Ninomaru and the main, west, gate into the inner citadel. Inside to the left, Uto Yagura was the only turret to survive the 1877 battle, while straight on, a high-sided defile leads to the imposing central keep, which hosts an excellent historical museum about the castle and the Hosokawa lords. Immediately south of the keep stands the resplendent Go-ten Ōhiroma, the main reception hall, while in the northwest corner of the castle grounds is Kyū-Hosokawa Gyōbutei, an immaculately restored and unusually large high-ranking samurai residence set in traditional gardens. It is one of the few buildings of its kind remaining in Japan; it was severely damaged in the earthquake, so currently has to be admired from outside.

Prefectural Traditional Crafts Centre

熊本県伝統工芸館, Kumamoto-ken Dentō Kōgeikan • 3-35 Chibajo-machi • 9am–5pm; closed Mon • Kumamoto craft display ¥210 • 096 324 4930

Opposite the castle’s northeastern gate (Akazu-no-mon), the Prefectural Traditional Crafts Centre hosts free exhibitions promoting local artists and an excellent display of Kumamoto crafts on the second floor, many of which are for sale in the ground-floor shop. The most famous traditional craft is Higo zogan, a painstaking method of inlaying gold and silver in a metal base. Developed in the seventeenth century for ornamenting sword hilts, it’s now used for jewellery, decorative boxes and the like. Look out among the toys for a little red-faced fellow with a black hat, the ghost Obake-no-kinta – try pulling the string. There are also often intriguing exhibitions in a nearby annexe building.

Suizenji-jōjuen

水前寺成趣園 • 8-1 Suizenji-kōen • Daily: March–Oct 7.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb 8.30am–5pm • ¥400; tea ¥550 outside, ¥650 in ceremony room • 096 383 0074, www.suizenji.or.jp • Suizenji-kōen tram stop, then 200m walk north

It pays to visit Suizenji-jōjuen early, before crowds arrive. In any case, the garden is at its best with an early-morning mist over the crystal-clear, spring-fed lake, its surface broken by jumping minnows or the darting beak of a heron. Plump, multicoloured carp laze under willow-pattern bridges, while staff sweep the gravel paths or snip back an errant pine tuft. Considered to be one of Japan’s most beautiful stroll-gardens, Suizenji-jōjuen was created over eighty years, starting in 1632, by three successive Hosokawa lords. The temple from which the garden took its name is long gone, but the immaculate, undulating landscape has survived, dotted with artfully placed rocks, shrubs, miniature pines and plum trees. The design supposedly mimics scenes on the road between Tokyo and Kyoto, known as the “53 stations of the Tōkaidō” – the ones you’re most likely to recognize are Fuji and Lake Biwa. Considering Suizenji-jōjuen’s prestige, it’s surprising to find the garden cluttered with souvenir stalls; many of the items on sale feature Kumamon, the cartoon black bear seen all over the city.

On the northern side of the complex is the Izumi shrine, dedicated to the Hosokawa lords, while a four-hundred-year-old teahouse overlooks the lake from its west bank. Here you can drink a cup of green tea on the benches outside or in the tea ceremony room, while admiring one of the best views of the garden; the price includes an izayoi, a white, moon-shaped cake made using egg white.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KUMAMOTO

By plane From Kumamoto Airport ( 096 232 2810, kmj-ab.co.jp/eng), roughly 15km east, limousine buses shuttle into town (approx 1hr; ¥700–800), stopping at Shimo-dōri and the Kumamoto Kōtsū Centre before ending up at the train station. There are also free buses to Higo-Ozu Station on the railway line between Kumamoto and Aso.

Destinations Nagoya (6 daily; 1hr 15min); Naha (1 daily; 1hr 30min); Osaka (Itami; 10 daily; 1hr 5min); Tokyo (1–2 hourly; 1hr 35min).

By train The main train station lies some 2km south of the city centre.

Destinations Fukuoka (every 30min; 40min–1hr 20min); Kagoshima (every 30min; 40min–1hr 15min); Osaka (1–2 hourly; 3hr–3hr 45min).

By bus Kumamoto Kōtsū Centre (熊本交通センター) is the city’s central bus station, and most long-distance buses terminate here, though a few continue through to the train station; in addition, most buses from the ferry port, Kumamoto-kō, stop at the train station first.

Destinations Aso (9 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr); Beppu (1 daily; 4hr 40min); Fukuoka (every 10–20min; 2hr 20min); Kagoshima (4 daily; 3hr 20min); Miyazaki (1 hourly; 3hr); Nagasaki (8 daily; 3hr 20min); and Takachiho (2 daily; 3hr 30min).

By ferry Kumamoto Ferry ( 096 311 4100, kumamotoferry.co.jp) operates high-speed ferries from Kumamoto-kō (熊本港) to Shimabara (6–7 daily; 30min; ¥1000), while Kyūsho Ferry ( 096 329 6111, kyusho-ferry.co.jp) runs a regular service to Shimabara (10 daily; 1hr; ¥780). To get to the port, take a bus from the Kumamoto Kōtsū Centre via Kumamoto Station (9 daily; 35min; ¥550).

GETTING AROUND

By tram Getting around central Kumamoto is fairly straightforward thanks to the tram system, which covers most sights. Trams run every 5–10min from 6.30am–11pm, with a flat fare of ¥170. There are just two lines (A and B), both of which run from the eastern suburbs through the city centre before splitting near the Kumamoto Kōtsū Centre. Line A then heads off south to Kumamoto Station, while Line B loops north round the castle. You can change from one line to another at Karashima-chō, where the lines split; ask for a transfer ticket (norikae-kippu) to avoid paying twice.

Transport passes If you’re moving about a lot, you can buy a one-day pass (ichi-nichi jōshaken; ¥500 for trams, or ¥900 for trams and buses, including the bus to the port), which also entitles you to discounted tickets to various sights.

Car rental Toyota Rent-a-Car has branches near Kumamoto Station ( 096 311 0100) and at the airport ( 096 232 0100).

INFORMATION

Tourist information Kumamoto’s helpful tourist information service (daily 9am–5.30pm; 096 322 5060, manyou-kumamoto.jp for the city, kumanago.jp for the prefecture) can be found at Jōsaien, a visitor complex of crafts shops and restaurants on the southwest side of the castle. There are also branches at the station (daily 8.30am–7pm) and airport (daily 6.30am–9.30pm).

Hospital Kumamoto National Hospital ( 096 353 6501) is immediately south of Ninomaru Park.

Police The Kumamoto Prefectural Police Headquarters is at 6-18-1 Suizenji ( 096 381 0110).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Castle ホテルキャッスル 4-2 Jyōtō-machi 096 326 3311, www.hotel-castle.co.jp. One of the few places in Kumamoto boasting views of the city’s most famous sight – despite this, and the high quality of the rooms and service, it’s not that expensive. Repair to the top-floor restaurant bar for evening drinks and wonderful castle vistas. ¥15,000

Nakashimaya 中島屋 2-11-6 Shin-machi 096 202 2020, nakashimaya.ikidane.com. A wonderful female-only hostel: friendly, decorated with traditional flourishes, comfy futons on tatami mats, free computer access, rooftop deck, coin laundry... and you can try your hand at dyeing your own shoes or T-shirts. Dorms ¥2800, singles ¥3300, twins ¥5900

KUMAMOTO FESTIVALS

Kumamoto’s main events are the Hinokuni Festival (mid-Aug), celebrated with folk dances, a city-centre parade and fireworks; and the Fujisaki Hachiman-gū autumn festival (5 days in mid-Sept), on the final morning of which around sixty colourfully decorated horses and twenty thousand people in historical garb parade through the streets.

Sunroute ホテルサンルート熊本 1-7-18 Shimotori 096 322 2211, sunroute-kumamoto.jp. Stylish, welcoming and very central hotel with a free espresso machine in the lobby and a wide choice of rooms: especially recommended are the spacious Japanese-style twins (¥16,000), with a retro feel, stylish modern shōji and enough room for two extra people to sleep on the tatami mats (¥3000 each). Very good rates for singles, too (¥7000). ¥12,000

Tōkyu REI 東急REIホテル 7-25 Shinshigai 096 322 0109, tokyuhotels.co.jp. The best place in town at this price range – central enough, with rooms that are larger and more attractive than the competition. There’s a fast food restaurant connected to the lobby. ¥7500

EATING MAP

Local speciality foods include horsemeat sashimi (basashi) eaten with lots of garlic, and karashi renkon, which consists of lotus-root slices stuffed with a mustard and bean paste, dipped in batter and deep-fried.

And Coffee Roasters Kaminoura-dōri 096 273 6178, andcoffeeroasters.com. Earnest, pared-down, third-generation coffee house that stretches to a few tables upstairs and a few cakes. The espresso (¥350), filtered and cold-brew coffees are excellent, and by doubling the price you can try coffee made with their specially selected beans. Daily 8am–8pm.

Katsuretsutei 勝烈亭 2-5 Hagiwara-machi 096 334 5451. One can’t have a run-down of Kumamoto restaurants without mentioning this attractive, bustling place, which has found national fame for its katsu (breaded cutlets). Their weekday lunch sets are wonderful value at under ¥1000; of an evening or weekend, you can figure on around ¥1700 for more or less the same thing. Daily 11.30am–9pm.

Shiromiyagura 城見櫓 1-10 Hanabata-chō 096 356 1146. One of the few Kumamoto restaurants with castle views, which are especially good from the uppermost of its four levels. Kaiseki dinners – including local specialities such as karashi renkon, horsemeat and free-range chicken – start from ¥5000, though it’s a lot cheaper at lunchtime (from ¥2200). The entrance is a little hard to spot, but the building stands out: it’s by the river, topped with a tiled gable roof that’s designed to imitate the castle opposite. Daily 11.30am–1.30pm & 5.30–9pm.

Tortacos トルタコス 73 Rempei-chō 096 221 5716. You may have to hunt around a little to find this Mexican restaurant, which has become highly popular of late with clued-up expats and locals. There are plenty of the usual tacos and burritos (including veggie options) from ¥330–1000, plus more interesting dishes such as huevos rancheros, and Okinawan taco-rice (both ¥980). Round things off with a tequila, or one of their surprisingly lenghty range of Mexican beers. Sun–Tues 6–10pm, Fri & Sat 6–11pm.

Yokobachi ヨコバチ 11-40 Kamitorōri-chō 096 351 4581. Enjoy karashi renkon or Higo beef, the local wagyu, at this bustling izakaya on Kaminoura-dōri, where the tatami-mat rooms overlook a pretty Japanese garden. Set meals start at ¥2500, and you can add on ¥1500 for all-you-can-drink in 90min. Mon–Sat 5–11.30pm, Sun 5–11pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

Bar Sanctuary 4-16 Tetori-hon-machi. Kumamoto’s one-stop party venue, with a dance club that attracts top local and national DJs, a bar, a darts room and open karaoke. Entry prices vary by gender, and whether you get there before midnight or not – men pay ¥800/1500 before/after (with two free drinks), and ladies ¥300/500 (with one free drink). Mon–Thurs & Sun 8pm–4am, Fri & Sat 8pm–5am.

Aso and the central highlands

Central Kyūshū is dominated by sparsely populated, grassy highlands, in places rising to substantial peaks, which offer some of the island’s most magnificent scenery and best walking country. These mountains are relics of ancient volcanic upheavals and explosions of such incredible force that they collapsed one gigantic volcano to create the Aso caldera, the world’s largest crater. Today the floor of the caldera is a patchwork of fields like many tatami mats, and the surrounding uplands form a popular summer playground, but the steaming crater of Aso-san at its centre provides a potent reminder that the volcano is still very much alive.

All this subterranean activity naturally means a wealth of hot springs to wallow in, mostly within the caldera itself, although there are a few gems hidden deep in the highlands. One is the picturesque village of Kurokawa Onsen, squeezed in a narrow gorge on the Senomoto plateau, which makes a great overnight stop on the road to Beppu. The village lies a few kilometres off the Yamanami Highway, the main route between Aso and Beppu, providing a spectacular mountain ride through the Aso-Kujū National Park. In the opposite direction, another dramatic road climbs over the crater wall and heads southeast to Takachiho. Perched above an attractive gorge of angular basalt columns, this is where the mythical Sun Goddess Amaterasu hid, according to legends about the birth of the Japanese nation. A riverside cave and its neighbouring shrine make an easy excursion, but a more compelling reason to stop here is to catch a night-time performance of the story told through traditional folk dances.

The Aso Caldera

The ancient crater of Aso Caldera, measuring 18km from east to west, 24km north to south and over 120km in circumference, was formed about 100,000 years ago when a vast volcano collapsed. As the rock cooled, a lake formed, but the eruptions continued, pushing up five smaller cones, today known collectively as Aso-san. Eventually the lake drained and the area became inhabited; local people attribute their fortune to the god Takeiwatatsu-no-mikoto, grandson of Emperor Jimmu, who kicked a gap in the western wall – the same gap the train uses – to give them rice land. Now some 70,000 people live within the crater, working the rich volcanic soils, while cattle and horses graze the higher meadows in summer. ASO TOWN (阿蘇市) is a grandiose name for a scattered group of villages located within the massive caldera on the north side of Aso-san, including a tourist area around Aso Station, which represents the centre of local life.

Aso-san

阿蘇山 • Bus from Aso Station to Aso Volcano Museum (hourly 9am–3pm; 30min; ¥570)

The five peaks of Aso-san line up across the caldera. At the eastern end of the chain lies the distinctively craggy Neko-dake (1433m), while the next peak west is Taka-dake (1592m), the highest of the five summits, and its volcanic offshoot Naka-dake (1506m). West of here lie Eboshi-dake (1337m) and Kijima-dake (1321m).

Naka-dake has been active again since 2014, including forceful eruptions in 2016 and 2019; in between times, the bad luck continued when the Kumamoto Earthquake damaged several roads in the area: at the time of writing, there’s limited access to Aso-san, and the only road up the mountain currently passable is the one due south from Aso Town. It’s still possible to drive or take the bus up as far as the Aso Volcano Museum, which is itself missable, though you’ll be rewarded with great views, especially from the two lookout points above the museum: smoke rising to the east from the unearthly grey crater of Naka-dake; to the west, Kumamoto and Unzen-dake, beyond the gap in the caldera wall at Tateno; and to the north, the awesome expanse of the caldera’s rim, with the perfect cone of Komezuka, the “hill of rice”, below in the foreground – its dimpled top is said to have been created when Takeiwatatsu-no-mikoto scooped up a handful of rice to feed his starving people.

You’re also free to walk on the hyperbolically named Kusasenri (“Thousand-Mile Meadow”), a grassy bowl on the south side of the Aso Volcano Museum speckled with shallow crater lakes, though the satisfying ninety-minute circuit of Kusasenri that takes in the crumpled peak of Eboshi-dake is off-limits at the moment.

Aso tourist office can give advice about the current volcano alert level and how it affects access, though it’s tricky to get good information in English online (try aso.ne.jp/~volcano, or kyusanko.co.jp/aso/lang_en).

Kijima-dake

杵島岳

If alert levels return to normal, you’ll once more be able to climb up grassy Kijima-dake (1321m), which rises behind the Aso Volcano Museum. The paved path from the far northeast corner of the car park takes you on an easy thirty-minute climb, for views over the caldera, Kusasenri and Naka-dake, and then down into Kijima-dake’s extinct crater. From here, you can descend via a ski slope to join a path alongside the road to Naka-dake; the whole walk should take under ninety minutes.

Naka-dake and Taka-dake

中岳 • 高岳 • Bus from Aso Station to Naka-dake (hourly 9am–3pm; 45min; ¥650)

In normal times, buses from Aso Station terminate at the foot of Naka-dake in a scruffy area of souvenir shops and restaurants, while for cars, a toll road continues to the top. You can walk up in twenty minutes, though pre-2016, most took the ropeway running from the bus terminus up to the crater; at the time of writing, even the replacement bus service had been cancelled. If you do manage to make it up, you’ll see the forbidding sight of multicoloured rocks and glimpses of a seething grey lake through turbulent, sulphurous clouds of steam. Most activity takes place in a 100m-deep crater at the northern end, and this area is always strictly off-limits. If the summit is open, however, you can normally approach the crater lip and then walk south beside barren, dormant craters and across the lava fields.

Alamy

YOKAGURA PERFORMANCE, TAKACHIHO

THE YAMANAMI HIGHWAY

From Aso, the Yamanami Highway (Highway 11) heads north over the Kujū mountains to Beppu. The road breaches the caldera wall at Ichinomiya, from where the classic profile of Aso-san’s five peaks supposedly conjures up a sleeping Buddha with head to the east and Naka-dake’s steaming vent at his navel, although it’s a little more convincing from Daikambō lookout further west. North of here, and a little west of the highway, Kurokawa Onsen offers a choice of rotemburo along a picturesque valley. The highway then climbs again through the Kujū range, which for some reason receives far less attention than Aso-san or Ebino Kōgen, although it offers good hiking and the Kyūshū mainland’s highest peaks. The tallest, Kujū-san (1787m), is no longer active, but even here wisps of steam mark vents high on the north slopes. More spa towns lie strung along the route from here, and then start again at Yufuin before the road makes its final descent into Beppu.

While the Yamanami Highway is best avoided during peak holiday periods, for the most part it’s fairly traffic free. A daily bus plies the whole route between Kumamoto and Beppu, stopping at Aso, Kurokawa Onsen, Yufuin and a few other places en route.

Also keep your fingers crossed that the fantastic hiking trail reopens from the top of the ropeway round the crater’s rim; it leads to the summit of Naka-dake, and then down to Sensuikyō, a valley famous for its azaleas in May, in about two hours. Sensuikyō is also reachable on a ninety-minute uphill trot from Miyaji Station (宮地駅), two stops east of Aso.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION ASO TOWN

By train The Kumamoto Earthquake of 2016 brought down a major rail bridge west of Tateno, and services between Kumamoto and Aso (normally hourly; 1hr) will be suspended for a considerable period of time. Services to Aso from Oita are still running, including a direct train from Beppu (1 daily; 2hr).

By bus Aso bus station is to the right as you exit the train station.

Destinations Beppu (1 daily; 3hr); Kumamoto (usually via Kumamoto Airport; 9 daily; 1hr 45min–2hr); Kurokawa Onsen (2 daily; 1hr); Yufuin (2 daily; 2hr 15min).

By car Toyota have a car rental office just east of the train station ( 096 735 5511).

Tourist information On the east side of the train station, the Michi-no-eki visitor centre contains a well-organized tourist office (daily 9am–6pm; 096 735 5077, asocity-kanko.jp), where you’ll find a wealth of information on local transport and accommodation, including a useful sketch map of Aso Town’s restaurants and other facilities.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Aso Base Backpackers 阿蘇ベースバックパッカーズ 1498 Kurokawa 0967 34 0408, aso-backpackers.com. A short walk south of the train station, this sociable, squeaky-clean, pine-lined venue is a great place, its comfy beds augmented by a pleasing, lodge-style atmosphere. Closed in winter (months vary). Dorms ¥2800, twins ¥6000

Shukubō Aso 宿坊あそ 1076 Kurokawa 0967 34 0194. By far the fanciest place to stay in Aso Town itself, this minshuku in a wonderful old cedarwood farmhouse has beautiful, traditional rooms with toilets and washbasins, and shared lava-stone onsen. Good dinners feature vegetables and rice from their own organic farm, and the English-speaking owner will collect you from the station. ¥22,222

Sozankyo 蘇山郷 Opposite the post office in Uchinomaki Onsen, 6km northwest of Aso Station 0967 32 0515, sozankyo.jp. Outstanding hospitality is offered at this ryokan which has 22 spacious, graceful rooms. Guests can also bathe in the indoor onsen or the two private, semi-outdoor baths, one of which is an old sake barrel. Rates include exceptional breakfasts and excellent, creative dinners, which might include local beef, duck and rice from the volcanic fields. B&B rates are also available, and there’s free cycle hire. ¥26,000

EATING MAP

Botchūtei 坊中亭 Aso train station. Surprisingly good restaurant inside the train station. The fantastically warming dango-jiru stew costs ¥1350 for a set, or try the huge tonkatsu curry rice (¥1000). Generally daily 10am–5pm.

Kurokawa Onsen

黒川温泉

One of the most popular upmarket hot-spring resorts in Japan, KUROKAWA ONSEN is made up of twenty-odd ryokan, which lie higgledy-piggledy at the bottom of a steep-sided, tree-filled valley scoured into the Senomoto Kōgen plateau (瀬の本高原) by the gushing Tanoharu River, some 6km west of the Yamanami Highway. The village is completely devoted to hot-spring bathing and most of its buildings are at least traditional in design, if not genuinely old, while yukata-clad figures wandering between the boutiques and cafés on the narrow alleys add to its slightly quaint atmosphere. Kurokawa is particularly famous for its rotemburo: there are 24 different locations in total, offering rocky pools of all shapes and sizes. Out of the main tourist season, when the crowds have gone, it’s well worth making the effort to get here, and Kurokawa makes an excellent overnight stop, if you don’t mind paying a little extra for accommodation.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION KUROKAWA ONSEN

By bus Buses stop on Route 442, just south across the river from the centre of town.

Destinations Aso (2 daily; 1hr); Beppu (1 daily; 2hr 25min); Fukuoka (via Fukuoka Airport; 4 daily; 3hr); Kumamoto (2 daily; 2hr 30min); Yufuin (2 daily; 1hr 30min).

Tourist information The tourist office (daily 9am–6pm; 0967 44 0076, kurokawaonsen.or.jp) is beside a car park in the centre of town, on the north side of the river, and produces a map of local walking trails. Electric bicycles can be rented from the adjacent building (¥500 for 2hr).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Aso Kujū-kōgen Youth Hostel 阿蘇くじゅう高原ユースホステル 6332 Senomoto 0967 44 0157, asokujuuyh.sakura.ne.jp. The closest acceptable budget accommodation lies 5km east, near the Yamanami Highway; buses bound for Kurokawa stop at the end of the drive. Meals are available and staff can provide good hiking information, though the place is slightly overpriced for what it is. Dorms ¥3000, doubles ¥7600

Okyaku-ya Ryokan 御客屋旅館 6546 Manganji 0967 44 0454. Founded in 1722, this ryokan occupies a lovely wooden building right in the centre of things, and (trinket shop aside) maintains a pleasant Edo-era atmosphere. All rooms have river views and the on-site baths are nothing short of spectacular. ¥26,000

Warokuya わろく屋 6600-1 Manganji 0967 44 0283. Amiable, cosy restaurant just down the bank from the tourist office by a river bridge. The emphasis is on quirky curry dishes (¥1300 for a medley of three curries): spicy horsemeat curry is the “no.1 favourite” but the yakikare (baked with mozzarella) is more likely to be palatable. The chocolate cakes are rather tempting, too. 10am–6pm, though it’s sometimes closed by 4pm; closed Thurs.

Yamabiko Ryokan やまびこ旅館 6704 Manganji 0967 44 0311, yamabiko-ryokan.com. The place for a splurge, this grand riverside ryokan with outdoor rotemburo is set in spacious grounds on the west side of the centre. The meals are simply delectable. ¥34,000

Takachiho

高千穂

KUROKAWA’S BATHS

All the baths in town are attached to ryokan and you can buy tickets at the reception of each individual ryokan (from ¥500). Alternatively, get a pass allowing entry to any three ryokan (¥1300, valid for 6 months) from the ryokan or the tourist office. The tourist office can also provide a good English map showing the location of all the public rotemburo, with a key indicating whether they’re mixed or segregated.

If you only have time for one, try the central Okyaku-ya Ryokan for all-round atmosphere, or Yamabiko Ryokan (see below) for its unusually large rotemburo set among the trees; the latter also offers meals-plus-onsen packages from ¥5000/person. Alternatively, Yumotosō (湯本荘) has a gorgeous little rotemburo, with a bath made from a sake barrel. A few kilometres out of central Kurokawa, the riverside baths at Yamamizuki (山みず木) or Hozantei (帆山亭), set in wooded hills away from the crowds, are also worth a visit; Yamamizuki offers a regular shuttle bus from town.

MYTHS AND DANCE IN TAKACHIHO

Takachiho’s famous traditional dances have their roots in local legend. The story goes that the Storm God, Susano-ō, once destroyed the rice fields of his sister, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu, and desecrated her sacred palace. Understandably offended by these actions, Amaterasu hid in a cave and plunged the world into darkness. The other gods tried to entice her out with prayers and chants, but nothing worked until, finally, a goddess named Ama-no-uzume broke into a provocative dance. The general merriment was too much for Amaterasu, who peeped out to see the fun, at which point the god of power, Tajikarao, hauled away the rock blocking the cave entrance – one of the climactic scenes of the dance-drama – and brought light back to the world. Takachiho locals also claim that nearby mountain Takachiho-no-mine – not the mountain of Ebino Kōgen – is where Amaterasu’s grandson, Ninigi-no-mikoto, descended to earth with his mirror, sword and jewel to become Japan’s first emperor.

A visit to Takachiho is not complete without viewing a sample of this rustic, masked dance-drama, accompanied by flute and drum, at the Kagura-den. In one hour you see three or four extracts from the full cycle, typically including the story of Amaterasu and her cave, and ending with an explicit rendition of the birth of the Japanese nation in which the two “gods” leave the stage to cavort with members of the audience – to the great delight of all concerned. The performers are drawn from a pool of around 550 local residents, aged from 5 to 80 years, who also dance in the annual Yokagura festival (mid-Nov to mid-Feb, usually weekends). In a combination of harvest thanksgiving and spring festival, 24 troupes perform all 33 dances in sequence in private homes and village halls, lasting through the night and into the next day. You can sign up for one of these all-nighters at the tourist office; food is provided but you’re expected to bring a donation of two large bottles of sake.

The small town of TAKACHIHO lies on the border between Kumamoto and Miyazaki prefectures, where the Gokase-gawa has sliced a narrow channel through layers of ancient lava. In winter, when night temperatures fall below freezing, local villagers perform time-honoured Yokagura dances in the old farmhouses, bringing back to life the gods and goddesses who once inhabited these mountains. The main reason for visiting Takachiho is to see a few excerpts from this dance-cycle, but combine that with Takachiho gorge, a pretty spot whose strange rock formations are woven into local myths, plus a dramatic journey from whichever direction you arrive, and Takachiho becomes somewhere to include on any Kyūshū tour.

Takachiho sits on the north bank of the Gokase-gawa, grouped around the central Hon-machi crossroads. Both the gorge and Takachiho-jinja, where nightly Yokagura dances are held, are on the southwest edge of town, within easy walking distance, while its other main sight, a mildly interesting riverside cave, lies a short drive or bus ride to the east. It’s possible to cover both areas in a day, see a Yokagura performance in the evening and travel on the next morning.

Takachiho’s shops are full of sweet-potato shōchū and other local produce, alongside kagura dolls and masks, which are carved from camphor-wood, making unusual souvenirs.

Takachiho-jinja

高千穂神社 • Yokagura dances at 8pm • ¥700

The road southwest to the gorge first passes Takachiho-jinja – founded in the second century AD – at the top of mossy steps roughly 800m from the Hon-machi crossing. It’s a simple wooden building, engulfed in ancient cryptomeria trees and mainly of interest for a high-relief carving of the guardian deity dispatching a demon; to find the carving, facing the shrine, walk round to the right of the building. The wooden Kagura-den next door is where the nightly Yokagura dances are held.

Takachiho gorge

高千穂峡, Takachiho-kyō • Rowing boat rental daily 8.30am–4.30pm • ¥2000 for 30min; 3 people per boat

Beyond Takachiho-jinja, turn left after the Takachiho Hotel, then corkscrew down for about 1km on a series of hairpin bends, and you’ll emerge at Mihashi Bridge at the south end of Takachiho gorge. At its narrowest point the gorge is just 3m wide and plunges 100m between cliffs of basalt columns, which in one place fan out like a giant cockleshell. If you want to see what the gorge looks like from below you can rent rowing boats at Mihashi Bridge – it’s particularly impressive when viewed from the emerald-green river. Otherwise, follow the path along the east bank, which takes you along the gorge’s most scenic stretch, passing lovely Manai Waterfall. Six hundred metres later you come out at the old stone Shinbashi Bridge. Before tackling the climb back into Takachiho, you might want to stop off at Araragi-no-chaya restaurant.

Amano Iwato-jinja

天岩戸神社 • Buses leave Takachiho’s central station every 90min or so (fewer on Sat & Sun; 15min; ¥300)

Head east of Takachiho along the Iwato-gawa and after 8km you’ll reach Amano Iwato-jinja, in an attractive setting among venerable cedars. The shrine buildings are closed to the public, but from behind the shrine it’s just possible to make out Amaterasu’s cave on the river’s far bank. Unfortunately, you can’t reach it, but a second cave, Amano Yasugawara, on the same side of the river as the shrine, is more accessible: it was into this cave that Amaterasu’s fellow gods crammed – all eight million of them – while they were deciding their strategy. The cave, with its diminutive shrine beneath a sacred rope, is about a fifteen-minute walk east, down some steps and beside the river.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TAKACHIHO

Takachiho is only accessible by bus or private transport; the bus station lies about 100m south of the central Hon-machi crossroads.

By bus from Kumamoto and Aso There are direct services from Kumamoto, via the airport (2 daily; 3hr 30min, or 2hr 40min from the airport). From Aso Town, you would normally take a private Minami-Aso line train from Tateno (立野), three stops west of Aso on the JR line, round the caldera’s south side as far as Takamori (高森), then a thrice-daily bus to Takachiho. However, the lines remain partially suspended following the Kumamoto Earthquake; in the meantime, you’ll need to catch a bus from Aso to Kumamoto Airport (7 daily; 1hr), then hook up with services from there.

By bus from Nobeoka and Miyazaki In the opposite direction, Miyazaki Kōtsū buses track the Gokase valley up from Nobeoka on the east coast (延岡; roughly hourly; 1hr 20min). Nobeoka lies on the JR train line between Beppu and Miyazaki and receives regular buses from Miyazaki (every 30min; 1hr 10min–1hr 30min); at weekends, there’s a daily bus all the way from Miyazaki to Takachiho in 3hr. The latter journey costs ¥2500, but tourists can buy a one-day bus pass for Miyazaki Prefecture (including Takachiho) for ¥1500.

INFORMATION

Tourist information The tourist office is opposite the bus station (daily 8.30am–5.30pm; 0982 72 3031, takachiho-kanko.info; English-speaking helpline on 090 4723 0471). It rents out electric bicycles (¥300/hr, ¥1500/day).

ATM There’s an international ATM at the post office, buried in the backstreets to the northeast of the Hon-machi crossing, and more at the town’s convenience stores.

ACCOMMODATION

B&B Ukigumo B＆B浮き雲 983-7 Mitai 0982 82 2703, takachiho-ukigumo.com. A medium-budget treat, this is a B&B with ryokan-like sensibilities – think tatami floors and sliding doors. It’s worth splashing out ¥400 per head extra for breakfast. ¥9000

Pineapple Donkey Hostel パイナップルドンキホステル 812-1 Mitai 0982 72 3765. This newly opened hostel has already supplanted the previous laboured offerings as the best budget choice in town. The owner is a worldly backpacker type who often ends up picking guests up at the station; the dorm is quite traditional in style, and guests have to supply their own toiletries and towels (though these are available to rent or buy). Dorms ¥1700

Hotel Takachiho ホテル高千穂 1037-4 Mitai 0982 72 3255. On a promontory overlooking the gorge, just beyond Takachiho-jinja, this grand hotel is a good option if you want to sleep in a bed. It has spick-and-span Western-style en-suite rooms (Japanese-style rooms also available), with views of the gorge from the west side of the hotel. If you phone ahead they’ll collect you from the bus station. The price includes meals. ¥23,000

EATING AND DRINKING

Araragi-no-chaya あららぎ乃茶屋 1245 Oshikata. Friendly restaurant- souvenir shop beside Shinbashi Bridge, with outdoor tables overlooking Takachiho gorge; stop here for a light meal or a taste of the local speciality, kappo sake – sake heated in a pipe of fresh green bamboo. Daily 8.30am–5pm.

Nagomi 和 Gamadase Ichiba, 5min walk southwest down the main street from Hon-machi crossroads, on the left 0982 73 1109, takachiho.ja-miyazaki.jp. Part of an agricultural co-operative market, this restaurant is stylishly lit to show off the local black-cow beef at its best. A Takachiho steak set dinner costs ¥2600; portions are smaller but cheaper at lunchtime. Look out for the statues of two prize-winning, now-deceased cattle outside. Daily 11am–2pm & 5–8.30pm.

Ten-an 天庵 1180-25 Mitai 0982 72 3023. Charming noodle joint done out in lovely wood from floor to ceiling, serving excellent home-made soba made with stoneground buckwheat flour (from ¥870). To find it, walk southwest from the Hon-machi junction, straight over the next set of lights (the Shiroyama crossing), take the first right and it’s on the right. Daily 11am–3pm.

Tentsukuten てんつくてん 805 Mitai 0982 72 3858. This popular, cosy izakaya is hidden behind a plain wooden facade festooned with paper lanterns and fairy lights, just south round the corner from the bus station. You can sample some of Takachiho’s well-rated shōchū, and eat well. 5.30pm–midnight; closed Sun.

Beppu and around

別府

Walking around the relaxed, coastal city of BEPPU, it is at times tempting to think that the place was built atop the den of some giant dragon – spirals of steam billow skywards from a thousand holes, lending certain streets a magical, otherworldly air. However, this is no myth or fairy tale, simply one of the world’s most geothermically active regions. Over one hundred million litres of near-boiling water gush out of more than three thousand springs each day, harnessed for use by local homes and swimming pools, for heating and medicinal purposes, or to fill the dozens of public and private baths that make this one of Japan’s most popular onsen resorts. The place is unashamedly commercial in nature, yet despite receiving over ten million visitors per year, it manages to feel like a town in decline – largely built during the domestic tourism boom of the 1970s, it seems half-forgotten by modern Japan. Still, the humble, throwback air that this creates enhances the city’s pleasure, and it’s easy to escape from the crowds.

There’s not a lot more to do in Beppu than soak in a tub. The next most popular activity is to go to look at the jigoku, which spew out steaming, sulphurous mud and form simmering lakes in lurid hues; they’re named after the Japanese word for the Buddhist notion of hell. Beppu’s jigoku are located in two main clusters: seven in the northern district of Kannawa – these are of the most interest – and two in Shibaseki Onsen, 3km further north. If you’re feeling adventurous, however, you’d do better to head for a clutch of secret onsen hiding away in the western hills. Beppu is also one of only two places in Japan where you can take a real, ocean-side sand bath, or suna-yu. Alternatively, you can visit the lovely Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre or ride the ropeway to the top of Tsurumi-dake for superb views over Beppu Bay and inland to the Kujū mountains.

The Beppu region is famed for its bamboo handicrafts, which you’ll find in the station malls and department stores on Ekimae-dōri. Another popular souvenir, which is on sale all over town, is yu-no-hana, natural bath salts to create that instant hot-spring feel back home.

Takegawara Onsen

竹瓦温泉 • 16-23 Moto-machi • Bath Daily 6.30am–10.30pm • ¥100 • Sand bath Daily 8am–10.30pm • ¥1030 • 0977 23 1585

Takegawara Onsen is a grand old Meiji-era edifice in the backstreets south of Ekimae-dōri. Its ordinary bath is hot and nicely traditional, but try the sand bath first. After rinsing in hot water, you lie face up on a bed of coarse, black sand while an attendant gently piles sand on to you – a heavy, warm cocoon (around 42°C) that comes up to your neck. Then just relax as the heat soaks in for the recommended ten minutes, before another rinse and then a soak in the hot tub.

Beppu Beach Sand Bath

別府海浜砂湯, Beppu Kaihei Sunaba • On Shoningahama beach, near Beppu Daigaku Station • Daily: March–Oct 8.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb 9am–5pm • ¥1030 • From central Beppu, take bus #20 to Betsudai-mae stop or #26 to Rokushoen stop (20min; ¥240 • 0977 66 5737

On a fine day, the seaside location of Beppu Beach Sand Bath may seem preferable to Takegawara, but it’s slightly marred by the busy main road behind and a concrete breakwater that dominates the view. The end result after a bath here, however, is still an overall sense of wellbeing. You’ll need a swimsuit, but they provide yukata to wear in the “bath”.

Global Tower

グローバルタワー • Fujimi-dōri • Daily: March–Nov 9am–9pm; Dec–Feb 9am–7pm • ¥300 • 0977 26 7111

About twenty minutes’ walk northwest of the station, just beyond Beppu Park, stands the pencil-thin Global Tower, which serves as both viewing platform and a landmark for B-Con Plaza, Beppu’s lavish convention centre and concert hall. The 100m-high, open observation deck provides giddying views, but if you’ve got time you’ll get a better all-round panorama from the western hills.

Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre

竹細工伝統産業会館, Takezaiku Dentō Sangyō Kaikan • 8-3 Higashisōen, 3km northwest of Beppu Station • Tues–Sun 8.30am–5pm • ¥300 • 0977 23 1072 • Bus #25 from the station’s east exit to Takezaiku Densankan-mae

The art of weaving bamboo flourished in the Edo period in Beppu – where bamboo can grow up to 20m tall – to make souvenirs for tourists, who came to take the waters here. The Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre, a neat little museum with a few choice pieces for sale, showcases a varied collection, from hats and kitchen utensils to jars and bags, some of them by Living National Treasures. There’s some labelling in English, but the beautiful craftworks speak for themselves, especially the modernist lights and geometric objets d’art.

Kannawa Onsen

鉄輪温泉

The charming area of Kannawa Onsen is the focal point of many visitors to Beppu, who mostly come here to see the jigoku. Only those recommended below are really worth it – any more and you’ll tire of the tacky commercialism, loudspeakers and tour groups. If you visit any of the district’s public baths, it’s a good idea to bring a towel, though you can always buy one on the spot for a couple of hundred yen.

Umi Jigoku

海地獄 • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥400 • Bus #5, #24 or #41 from Beppu Station to Umijigoku-mae stop (18–24min; ¥330–370)

The most attractive of Beppu’s jigoku is Umi Jigoku, set in a bowl of hills among well-tended gardens. Its main feature is a sea-blue pool – 120m deep and, at 90°C, hot enough to cook eggs – set off by a bright-red humped bridge and torii swathed in clouds of roaring steam. Walking around the manicured grounds, you’ll also find a small, onsen steam-fed greenhouse, and a delightful footbath.

Oniishi-Bōzu Jigoku

鬼石坊主地獄 • Daily 8am–5pm • ¥400 • Bus #5, #24 or #41 from Beppu Station to Umijigoku-mae stop (18–24min; ¥330–370)

An easy walk from Umi Jigoku, the speciality of Oniishi-Bōzu Jigoku is mud – boiling, smelly, steaming, hiccuping pools of it. Indeed, the place takes its name from the belief that the largest mud bubbles look like the bald pate of a Buddhist monk, a bōzu – and, in fact, the resemblance is quite uncanny.

Hyōtan Onsen

ひょうたん温泉 • Daily 9am–1am; sand bath closes midnight • ¥750, ¥550 after 6pm; ¥330 extra for the sand bath • 0977 66 0527, hyotan-onsen.com • Bus #5, #24 or #41 to Kannawa Bus Terminal (16–22min; ¥340)

Hyōtan Onsen is a modern bath complex at the bottom of the hill, offering a rotemburo, sauna, a range of indoor pools and a sand bath. Should you feel peckish, you can even buy jigoku mushi to snack on.

BEPPU’S HIDDEN ONSEN

If you’re looking for something less commercial than the Beppu onsen, a few “hidden” baths can be found in the tranquil forests of the western hills – they are not exactly holes in the ground, but close enough. However, they are pretty isolated, and women in particular should think twice about going alone. Nabeyama-no-yu has officially been off-limits since a grisly murder took place there in 2010.

If you want to make the journey, the first step is to get to Myoban (明礬), an onsen area accessible from Beppu Station on buses #5, #24 and #41 (25–30min; ¥360–430), all of which pass Kannawa Bus Terminal and Umijigoku-mae. From here directions are a little tough; it’s best to arm yourself with a rough map from the tourist office. A twenty-minute walk on a road heading up and left from Myoban bus stop will bring you to a fork. Take a left, and follow the road around for twenty minutes to Hebin-yu (へびん湯), a valley-based cascade of pools attended by a ramshackle hut. Turning right instead at the aforementioned fork, then scrambling up a rock path at the second gate, will bring you to Nabeyama-no-yu (鍋山の湯), a pair of onsen sitting in a forest-like setting. The first is a black-water pool, the second filled with clay that you can use for a free mud bath. Beppu is visible below, yet all one can hear are the sounds of nature – there isn’t even a place to put your clothes. To hit the third spring, Tsuru-no-yu (鶴の湯), you’ll have to get off the bus just before it passes under the highway, and head up the dirt track alongside a graveyard for thirty to forty minutes. Not easy – but it’s Beppu at its purest.

Shibaseki Onsen

柴石温泉 • Both jigoku daily 8am–5pm • ¥400 • Bus #16 from Kannawa Bus Terminal (6min; ¥190); bus #26 from Beppu Station (30min; ¥390) via Beppu Beach Sand Bath

There are two jigoku in Shibaseki Onsen, a five-minute bus ride north of Kannawa. Chi-no-ike Jigoku (血の池地獄), “Blood Pond”, is the better of the two, a huge bubbling pool whose vermilion fringes result from a high iron-oxide content. Fifty metres down the road, Tatsumaki Jigoku (龍巻地獄) consists of an unimpressive geyser that spouts around 5m into the air roughly every half-hour; it used to reach 50m until a stone block was placed over it for safety.

Tsurumi-dake

鶴見岳 • 6km west of Beppu Station • Ropeway daily 9am–5pm, closes 4.30pm mid-Nov to mid-March • ¥1000 one-way, ¥1600 return • beppu-ropeway.co.jp • Buses #34, #36 or #37 from Beppu Station drop you at the ropeway’s lower terminus (1–2 hourly; 30min; ¥420)

There are spectacular views from the summit of Tsurumi-dake (1375m) – it’s even possible to see Shikoku in the distance on a clear day. Though it’s perfectly climbable, the majority of visitors use the ropeway instead to get to the top. Buses here from Beppu continue to Yufuin, meaning that you could combine the two into a long day-trip.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE BEPPU

By plane Beppu is served by Ōita airport ( 0978 67 1174, oita-airport.jp), 40km away on the north side of the bay; frequent airport buses run south to Ōita city, stopping at Kitahama, Beppu’s central seafront district, on the way (40min; ¥1500), and a few terminate at Beppu Station.

Destinations Nagoya (2 daily; 1hr); Osaka (Itami; 7 daily; 55min); Tokyo (17 daily; 1hr 30min).

By train Beppu’s main station is conveniently located right in the centre of town. From Fukuoka, three trains a day take the slower, more scenic route over the mountains via Yufuin and Ōita, though you can get to Beppu more quickly along the coast. This is also the fastest route from Kumamoto, since the Aso line is currently suspended, following the 2016 earthquake.

BEPPU’S CULINARY SPECIALITIES

Beppu’s speciality foods include the local wagyu, Bungo beef, as well as fugu (blowfish) and karei (flounder), which are traditionally winter dishes, though they’re often available year-round. Far cheaper are the piping-hot dango-jiru, a cheap, filling soup which comes with thick white noodles, assorted vegetables and chunks of either chicken or pork; toriten, a local chicken tempura; and reimen, buckwheat noodles in a cold soup. You might also like to try jigoku mushi, a name given to a whole assortment of comestibles (vegetables and eggs are most prominent) slow-cooked in steam from Beppu’s hells; you’ll find it on sale at stalls and supermarkets in the Kannawa area, where it also often features in ryokan meals.

Destinations Aso (1 daily; 2hr); Fukuoka (1–3 hourly; 2hr–3hr 20min); Miyazaki (usually with a change at Ōita; roughly hourly; 3hr 50min); Usuki (usually with a change at Ōita; 1–3 hourly; 30min–1hr 15min); Yufuin (3 daily; 1hr).

By bus Long-distance buses mostly stop at the Kamenoi bus station, in Kitahama, although some services terminate at Beppu train station.

Destinations Aso (1 daily; 3hr); Fukuoka (roughly hourly; 2hr 30min); Hiroshima (1 daily; 6hr); Kumamoto (1 daily; 4hr 40min); Nagasaki (5 daily; 3hr 40min); Yufuin (1–2 hourly; 1hr).

By ferry Ferries from Honshū and Shikoku dock a couple of kilometres north of the centre at the International Tourist Port. To reach the port from Beppu train station, take bus #20 or #26 and get off at Kansai Kisen-mae.

Destinations Osaka (1 daily; 12hr; from ¥12,300) with Ferry Sunflower ( 0977 22 2181, ferry-sunflower.co.jp); Yawatahama on Shikoku (6 daily; 2hr 50min; ¥3300) with Uwajima Unyu Ferry ( 0977 21 2364, uwajimaunyu.co.jp).

GETTING AROUND

By bus Local buses are the best way of getting around Beppu. Fortunately, they’re not too complicated and there’s a fair amount of information in English for the major routes. Most routes start at Beppu Station, but could leave from either the west or east sides – ask to make sure you’re waiting in the right place.

Bus passes It may be worth buying a one-day “Mini Free Pass” (¥900) or “Wide Free Pass” (¥1600), available at the station information desk or the Kamenoi bus station in Kitahama. Both passes include all buses within the city centre, which covers the jigoku, sand baths and even the ropeway, while the “Wide” pass covers buses to Yufuin too (otherwise ¥900 each way). They also entitle you to a ten percent discount on entry to the main sights, including the jigoku pass.

Car rental Eki Rent-a-Car ( 0977 24 4428) and many others have offices near Beppu Station.

Tours Both information offices will be able to get you onto the town’s sightseeing tours (¥5600/2800 for a full/half day).

INFORMATION

Tourist information The town’s main tourist office (daily 8.30am–5pm; 0977 21 6220) lies just inside the central east exit of Beppu Station and has maps, brochures and information on local bus routes. Even better is the new Tourists Hub (daily 9am–6pm; 0977 75 8716), located just a few paces away outside the east exit; there are always English-speakers on hand here, and they also offer left-luggage facilities and bike hire.

Services Beppu Medical Centre ( 0977 67 1111) is in north Beppu’s Kamegawa district, inland from Kamegawa Station. The main police station ( 0977 21 2131) is a 5min walk west of the station (left at the second traffic lights).

ACCOMMODATION MAP AND THIS MAP

The most convenient place to look for accommodation is around Beppu Station, where you’ll find a clutch of business hotels, a couple of appealing ryokan and some good-value budget options. Though less central, the Kannawa area offers a few atmospheric alternatives buried among its old streets. Prices tend to go up at weekends, when it’s advisable to book ahead.

AROUND THE STATION

Beppu Guest House 1-12 Ekimae-chō 080 4642 9044, beppu-e.cloud-line.com. Comfortable hostel just a stone’s throw from the station, with Western- and Japanese-style dorms and spacious common areas, including a well-equipped kitchen, computers and washing machine. Bicycles for rent. Dorms ¥2500, twins ¥5600

Beppu Station Hotel 別府ステーションホテル 12-8 Ekimae-chō 0977 24 5252, station-hotels.com. Rooms here are pretty sharp for a business hotel, and as the name suggests, it’s right next to the station. The cheapest singles (¥4000) are a little tight, but regular singles, twins and triples are a decent size. There’s also an onsen bath. ¥7400

Bokai 望海 3-8-7 Kitahama 0977 22 1241, bokai.jp. Excellent ryokan facing the beach. Bedrooms are all en suite and extremely comfortable (there’s a choice of tatami or Western styles), with views of Beppu Bay, which are shared by the lovely indoor and outdoor onsen on the rooftop. Exquisite dinners are served in your room. ¥26,000

Minshuku Kokage 国際民宿こかげ 8-9 Ekimae-chō 0977 23 1753, ww6.tiki.ne.jp/~kokage. Dating back to the 1940s, this popular cheapie has a choice of tatami or Western rooms, mostly en suite using hot-spring water, and a stone onsen downstairs. Free breakfast of coffee and toast included. ¥7650

Yamada Bessō 山田別荘 3-2-18 Kitahama 0977 24 2121, yamadabessou.jp. Welcoming, family-run ryokan inaugurated way back in 1930; the nicely faded wooden building is set in gardens a couple of blocks north of Ekimae-dōri. Cheaper rooms have no en-suite facilities, but the onsen and gorgeous outdoor rotemburo more than compensate; non-guests can use these facilities for just ¥500 (daily 11am–3pm). Meals are available on request, though prices almost double if you go for the full dinner-and-breakfast deal; they also go up by ¥2000 per room on Saturdays. Room only ¥13,000

KANNAWA

Kannawa-en 神和苑 6-kumi Miyuki 0977 66 2111, kannawaen.jp. This beautiful old ryokan boasts lovely tatami rooms (some in individual buildings, all with their own wooden hot-spring bath), picturesque rotemburo and a classic, hillside garden featuring waterfall-fed ponds, a nō theatre and a thatched teahouse. Rates include Japanese or Western breakfast and seasonal kaiseki or teppanyaki dinner. ¥36,720

Shinki-ya しんき屋 2-kumi Furimoto 0977 66 0962, shinkiya.com. Five minutes’ walk downhill from the bus terminal, tucked up a small lane on the right, this little ryokan has been beautifully renovated with seven gleaming tatami rooms (most with washbasin and toilet), a kitchen and washing machines for guests’ use; bathe in the hinoki onsen baths or rotemburo. Meals are offered on request (for much higher rates), including home-steamed jigoku mushi. Room-only ¥8900

EATING MAP AND THIS MAP

Beppu has a pleasing range of speciality foods to look out for. When it comes to finding a restaurant, you’re best off in the downtown area, while ramen joints are everywhere you look.

AROUND THE STATION

Basara House バサラハウス 3-2-2 Kita-hama 070 2304 5195. The best café in town – not exactly a seismic achievement in Beppu, but what the hey. Although a relatively new option, the building is (and still looks) old: it functioned as a brothel back in the 1920s, and some of the decor from intervening decades has been left in situ. Their coffee is basic, but they serve excellent chai (¥400), and also light meals, notably including vegan options such as a tasty bean curry (¥800). Daily 11am–3pm.

Kogetsu 湖月 In a narrow alley east of the covered arcade, just off Ekimae-dōri 0977 21 8062. Homely mom-and-pop shop with just seven counter seats that’s nationally famous for its gyōza (¥650 for a big plate), washed down with Kirin beer. Look out for the window display of lucky cat figurines – and the queue. 2–9pm; closed Tues.

Misonoya 味噌乃家 YouMe Town, 382-7 Kusunoki-machi 0977 80 1278. Beppu has noodle restaurants aplenty – it’s such a pity that the best one, the Beppu outpost of an Ōita-based chain now expanding across Kyūshū – is located inside a naff shopping mall. Some of the bowls (from ¥680) are quite wonderfully satisfying. Daily 11am–10pm.

Shin-zushi 新鮨し 2F 8-15 Ekimae-chō 0977 25 0005. Sushi fans should head to this pristine, second-floor restaurant, where nigiri sushi starts at ¥400 for two pieces, and there’s a good choice of sushi, sashimi and tempura set dishes from ¥2400. Daily 5.30pm–1.30am.

Toyotsune とよ常 2-12-24 Kitahama 0977 22 3274, toyotsune.com. Bungo beef and toriten (and fugu, in season) are on the menu at this presentable restaurant, as well as less exotic dishes including well-priced tempura or sashimi sets (from ¥860); there’s a good range of local shōchū, too. Also has a branch near the station. Daily 11am–9pm.

KANNAWA

Amamichaya 甘味茶屋 1-4 Jissō-ji 0977 67 6024. Just down the hill from Kannawa Onsen, this large but homely restaurant is the place to head for dango-jiru, Beppu’s tasty local noodle soup. This itself costs from ¥600, though for a little more you can have it as part of a set. Also selectable from the picture menu are goodies such as toriten (fried chicken; ¥390) and green-tea soba (¥720). Daily 10am–8.30pm.

DRINKING MAP

Robata Jin ろばた仁 1-15-7 Kitahama 0977 21 1768. Lively robatayaki and pub at the east end of Ekimae-dōri, with plenty of cheap local shōchū and an English menu listing a good range of fish, vegetable and tofu dishes, as well as yakitori skewers (¥330 for three). Daily 5–10.30pm.

Yufuin

湯布院

The small resort town of YUFUIN sits in a mountain-surrounded hollow just 25km inland from Beppu – perfect day-trip distance, meaning that hordes of tourists converge here at weekends and holiday times. However, Yufuin has made great efforts to protect its original character, and if you stay overnight, you’ll better appreciate its charming, thatched-roof-lined alleyways.

Head roughly northeast from the station towards the biggest mountain, Yufu-dake (pick up a map from the tourist office), and after twenty or so minutes’ walking you’ll be by a beautiful little lake, Kinrin-ko (金燐湖), surrounded by trees, cafés and boutiques. On the north bank of the lake, you’ll find the tiny Shitan-yu (下ん湯), a mixed-gender onsen with rustic thatched roofing.

There are few other sights as such, though Yufuin boasts a number of picturesque temples, as well as the opportunity to climb Yufu-dake, the double-headed volcano that rears up above town. Yufuin–Beppu buses stop after about 6km at a car park by the trailhead, leaving a steep but straightforward walk to the 1584m-high summit; allow about four hours return.

Yufuogō Saigakukan Onsen

柚富の郷彩岳館 • About 1.5km southeast of the station on Route 11 • Daily 11am–4pm • Public baths ¥620/person; private bath ¥2100 for 50min • 0977 44 5000, saigakukan.co.jp

Yufuin’s appeal for many visitors centres around tripping from one onsen to the next, though they are frustratingly rather spread out. Less than 2km from the station, the delightful onsen at the Yufuogō Saigakukan ryokan is definitely worth the effort. Men’s and women’s rock-lined rotemburo, as well as the outdoor sections of the two private baths, all enjoy the best views of Yufu-dake in town, and there’s a gorgeous relaxation lounge set around a traditional sunken fireplace, looking out onto a small, elegant garden. Good-value lunches at their fine restaurant are also available, as well as lunch-and-onsen packages (from ¥2700 for a dip and wagyu steak on rice).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION YUFUIN

By train The special Yufuin-no-mori service comes over the mountains from Fukuoka’s Hakata Station three times a day, though there are “regular” trains too, as well as direct services from Beppu (from which you can also change at Ōita).

Destinations Beppu (3 daily; 1hr); Fukuoka (6 daily; 2hr 15min).

By bus The bus station is a stone’s throw away from the train station, along the main street on the left.

Destinations Aso (2 daily; 2hr 15min); Beppu (1–2 hourly; 1hr); Fukuoka (via Fukuoka Airport; roughly hourly; 2hr 20min); Kumamoto (2 daily; 4hr 15min); Kurokawa Onsen (2 daily; 1hr 15min).

Tourist information There’s a very helpful booth in the station (daily 9am–5pm; 0977 84 2446); the booth opposite rents out bikes (¥300/hr) and electric bikes (¥600/hr).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Cafe la Ruche カフェラロシュ 1592-1 Kawakami 0977 28 8500. It’s hard to beat the stunning setting at this gallery café, with outdoor tables right next to the north bank of Kinrin Lake. Very good espresso coffees start at under ¥500, and they serve a range of snacks and small meals. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 7.30am–5pm.

Country Road Youth Hostel カントリーロードユースホステル 2.5km northeast of the station 0977 84 3734, countryroadyh.com. The town’s budget choice, a superb place with its own onsen and a rarefied location on a hillside overlooking town – try to arrange pick-up in advance. Dinner and breakfast available. Dorms ¥3800, doubles ¥8600

Hidamari 陽だまり 2914-1 Kawakami, about 100m east of the station 0977 84 2270. At this agricultural co-operative, the cheap, functional but friendly café serves very tasty dango-jiru (¥540), tempura and beef and burdock croquettes, while the shop does good-value bentō to take away. Daily: café 11am–3pm; shop 8.30am–5pm.

Izumi 泉 1599-1 Kawakami 0977 85 2283. Just west of Cafe la Ruche and also overlooking the lake, this beautiful venue is the best place in the area for a meal. It sells tasty handmade soba, including cold seiro soba (around ¥1300) – you can even watch the noodles being pounded and whacked out in an open area at the front of the restaurant. Daily 11am–5pm.

Makiba-no-ie 牧場の家 About 500m southeast of the station 0977 84 2138, ryosoumakibanoie.com. This ryokan is the most atmospheric option in town, with Japanese-style thatched-roof cottages set around a charming rotemburo. Their meals are fantastic. ¥40,000

Yufuogō Saigakukan 柚富の郷彩岳館 About 1.5km southeast of the station on Route 11 0977 44 5000, saigakukan.co.jp. Traditional but well used to catering to foreigners, this delightful rural ryokan is decorated throughout with hundreds of watercolour and oil landscapes. The lovely onsen (see above; public and private baths free to guests) shares fine views of Yufu-dake’s twin peaks with the restaurant, where excellent kaiseki cuisine, including local ingredients such as sweet chestnuts and Bungo wagyu beef, is served. Free pick-ups from the station, and bicycles available for rent. ¥29,000

Usuki

臼杵

The small and attractive castle town of USUKI, some 40km to the south of Beppu, offers a reminder of the spiritual side of life, and makes a pleasant stop on the coastal route to or from Miyazaki. Between the twelfth and fourteenth centuries, in a little valley around 5km southwest of town, skilled craftsmen sculpted some sixty Buddha statues in the soft lava tuff. The weather has taken its toll since then, but restoration work has saved several of these serene statues, which continue their vigil unperturbed.

Seki Butsu

石仏 • Daily: April–Sept 6am–7pm; Oct–March 6am–6pm • ¥530 • Bus from Usuki Station (7 daily; 20min; ¥310); 30min by bicycle (available from station, free); or about ¥2000 by taxi

The stone Buddhas, or Seki Butsu, are grouped around the sides of a narrow north–south valley and divided into four clusters, of which the first and last are the most interesting. Following the path anticlockwise, you’ll reach the Hoki Second Cluster first of all; it’s dominated by a 3m-tall figure of Amitabha Buddha and his two attendants, each individually expressed. The path then takes you round via the Hoki First Cluster – comprising over twenty statues – and the rather worn Sannōsan trinity of Buddhas, to the Furuzono Cluster. Here, the central Dainichi Nyorai is considered one of Japan’s finest stone-carved Buddhas. While the lower body has partly rotted away, the Buddha’s face, picked out with faded pigment, is still sublime.

The old town

After you’ve walked round the stone Buddhas, which won’t take much over thirty minutes, it’s worth taking a quick stroll through the old centre of Usuki on the way back to the station; if you’re travelling by bus, ask to get off at the Hirasōzu stop on the west side of town. From here, a stone-paved street leads northeast between high mossy walls and past temples and samurai houses. You’ll eventually come out on a traditional shopping street, where the local speciality, fugu, is much in evidence, either for sale dried in shops or on restaurant menus. Where you come to the big red torii on the far east side of town, turn right and you’ll be back at the station.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION USUKI

By train You’ll usually need to make a quick change at Ōita if you’re coming from Beppu.

Destinations Beppu (1–3 hourly; 30min–1hr 15min); Miyazaki (hourly; 3hr); Nobeoka (hourly; 1hr 30min).

Tourist information Staff at the station hand out basic sketch maps, but for anything more complicated, you’ll need to walk into the centre of town (around 10min) to the tourist office (daily 9am–6pm; 0972 63 1715) on the main shopping street.

Miyazaki and around

宮崎

There’s a relaxed, summery feel to the breezy city of MIYAZAKI, with its palm trees, flower-lined streets and the longest sunshine hours in Japan. It’s best used as a base for exploring the Nichinan coast to the south, which is particularly appealing to the surfers who head here in droves in warmer months. Sights in the city itself, however, won’t appear on anyone’s bucket list, though they’re sufficiently interesting to fill a half-day. Heiwadai-kōen is a hilltop park with a delightful collection of clay haniwa figurines – replicas of statues found in ancient burial mounds – while the grounds of nearby Miyazaki-jingū, the city’s foremost shrine, contain a good municipal museum.

South of Miyazaki, the hills close in as road and railway follow the coast down to Aoshima, a small island surrounded by peculiar rock formations; further along the coast, Udo-jingū’s main shrine nestles in a sacred cave. As you head down the Nichinan coast to Cape Toi, famed for its wild horses, there are more sandy coves and picturesque islands, as well as the castle remains and old samurai houses of Obi, a small, attractive town lying 6km inland. If you’re planning to do any travelling in this area by bus (even if it’s just from Aburatsu to Udo-jingū and back), you should arm yourself with a day pass from Miyazaki tourist office.

Heiwadai-kōen

平和台公園 • 24hr • Free • Bus #8 from Miyazaki Station, east exit (30min; ¥320)

Low hills rise to the north of Miyazaki, where the rather Stalinist “Tower of Peace” dominates a large public park, Heiwadai-kōen. Behind the tower you’ll find the Haniwa Garden, where dozens of clay statues of houses, animals and people populate a mossy wood. Look out for the charming warriors with elaborate uniforms and the pop-eyed, open-mouthed dancers. These are copies of the haniwa figures discovered in fourth-century burial mounds at nearby Saitobaru; it’s believed the statues were used to “protect” aristocratic tombs.

Miyazaki Prefectural Museum of Nature and History

宮崎県総合博物館, Miyazaki-ken Sōgō Hakubutsukan • 2-4-4 Jingū • 9am–5pm; closed Tues • Free • 0985 24 2071

Around 1km southeast of Heiwadai-kōen, and close to Miyazaki-jingū Station, the Miyazaki Prefectural Museum of Nature and History is worth visiting for its displays of local folklore. The same complex includes an archeological centre, where you can watch people patiently glueing together pottery shards, and the Minka-en, a collection of four thatched farmhouses from around the area. Don’t miss the two traditional stone baths; the water was heated by lighting a fire underneath, like giant cauldrons.

Miyazaki-jingū

宮崎神宮 • 2-4-1 Jingū • 24hr • Free

Just south across the park from the nature and history museum lies Miyazaki-jingū, dedicated to Japan’s first emperor, Jimmu Tennō. An unusually large shrine at the end of an imposing avenue, the sanctuary itself is typically understated, though if you’re lucky you’ll catch a festive ceremony, or at least spot some of the colourful, semi-wild chickens scurrying round the raked-gravel compound.

Prefectural Art Museum

宮崎県立美術館, Miyazaki Kenritsu Bijutsukan • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Free • 0985 20 3792

Five minutes’ walk west of Miyazaki-jingū is the aptly named Culture Park, a complex of public buildings, including a theatre, a library and a concert hall that contains Japan’s largest pipe organ. It is also home to the monumental Prefectural Art Museum, which has a collection of twentieth-century Japanese and Western painting that includes works by Picasso, Klee and Magritte.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION MIYAZAKI

By plane The airport ( 0985 51 5114, miyazaki-airport.co.jp) is 5km south of the city centre and connected to Miyazaki Station by train (1–3 hourly; 10min; ¥350).

Destinations Fukuoka (14 daily; 45min); Nagoya (3 daily; 1hr 10min); Naha (1 daily; 1hr 25min); Osaka (12 daily; 1hr); Tokyo (1–2 hourly; 1hr 30min).

By train If you’re coming to Miyazaki from Beppu or Fukuoka, you’ll usually have to make a quick change at Ōita.

Destinations Aoshima (roughly hourly; 30min); Beppu (roughly hourly; 3hr 50min); Fukuoka (hourly; 5hr 45min); Kagoshima (10 daily; 2hr–2hr 10min); Nobeoka (roughly hourly; 1hr); Obi (roughly hourly; 1hr 10min); Usuki (hourly; 3hr).

By bus Long-distance buses stop outside Miyazaki Station’s west exit. Tourists can buy a one-day bus pass (¥1500) at the train station tourist office, which covers all Miyazaki Kōtsū services within the prefecture, as far afield as Obi and Takachiho.

Destinations Aoshima (1–3 hourly; 45min); Fukuoka (1–2 hourly; 4hr); Kagoshima (7 daily; 2hr 40min); Kumamoto (1 hourly; 3hr); Obi (10 daily; 2hr); Udo-jingū (8 daily; 1hr 30min).

By ferry Ferries from Kōbe (1 daily; 13hr 30min; from ¥11,500; 0985 29 5566, www.miyazakicarferry.com) dock at Miyazaki Port Ferry Terminal, east of the city centre; buses to Miyazaki Station (15–20min; ¥270) wait outside the terminal buildings.

GETTING AROUND AND INFORMATION

By bus Nearly all local buses stop at Miyazaki Station and most also call at stops around the city’s central crossroads, Depāto-mae; the minimum fare is ¥160. The Miyazaki Kōtsū one-day pass for the tourist office includes city buses. At weekends, the “One-Coin” one-day pass (¥500) covers city buses.

By bike Bikes can be rented outside Miyazaki Station’s west exit (¥500/day).

Car rental Nippon Rent-a-Car has outlets at the station ( 0985 25 0919) and the airport ( 0985 56 5007).

Tourist information The main tourist office is inside Miyazaki Station (daily 9am–6pm; 0985 22 6469, miyazaki-city.tourism.or.jp), and there’s a desk at the airport (daily 7am–9pm; 0985 51 5114).

Services The Prefectural Hospital ( 0985 24 4181) is on Takachiho-dōri, west of the central crossroads. The Prefectural Police Headquarters is on Kencho Kusunamiki-dōri ( 0985 31 0110).

SURFIN’ MIYAZAKI

To scores of adventurous young Japanese, Miyazaki prefecture is inextricably linked to surfing. These are Japan’s best and warmest waters, and though few foreigners get in on the action, this makes a trip here all the more appealing. The peak season runs from August to October, when most weekends will have a surfing event of some description.

There’s decent surfing in the waters immediately west of Aoshima – protected by the island, these smaller swells are perfect for beginners. Nagisa Store ( 0985 65 1070, nagisastore.com), between Kodomonokuni Station and Grand Hotel Qingdao, rents boards (¥4000/day), body-board and fin sets (¥3000) and wetsuits (from ¥2000). A little further towards Miyazaki is Kisaki-hama (木崎浜), a decent beach popular with surfers, and a ten-minute walk from Undōkōen Station. Equipment here can be rented at Blast Surf World (boards from ¥4000/day, wetsuits ¥3000; 0985 58 2038), located between the beach and station.

Experienced surfers with their own equipment should head to the reefs and reef breaks south of Aoshima, though these can be hard to get to without a local friend. Far to the north of Miyazaki, there are similarly ferocious waters surrounding Hyūga (日向), just south of Nobeoka.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

APA Hotel APAホテル 3-4-4 Tachibanadōri-higashi 0985 20 5500, apahotel.com. South of Miyazaki’s central crossroads, this smart business hotel features English-style facilities, and boasts a few twin and double rooms (cheaper rooms lack windows). Buffet breakfast (an extra ¥1000) is served at the grandly named Café London. ¥9600

Green Rich グリーンリチホテル 1-5-8 Kawara-machi 0985 26 7411, gr-miyazaki.com. This excellent-value business hotel is near the river, and has smart, spick-and-span rooms that are relatively spacious for the price. ¥6700

Guesthouse Heiwa ホテルゲストハウス平和 1041-4 Oaza 0985 48 1880, ghouse-heiwa.webnode.jp. Cheap hostel with Japanese- and Western-style dorms, located some way north of the centre, though this makes it pretty convenient for Miyazaki-jingū and its surrounding sights. Free bicycles, washing machine and computer for guest use, though service standards are often a little below the mark. Meals available if ordered in advance. Dorms ¥2280

Sheraton Grande シェラトングランドオーシャンリゾート On the coast about 5km north of central Miyazaki 0985 21 1133, starwoodhotels.com; buses run roughly hourly from the station. Housed in a 43-storey skyscraper (its top floor devoted to a wedding chapel) in a huge, seaside country club complex, Seagaia, this is Miyazaki’s top hotel. Bedrooms are very spacious and luxurious – try to bag one with an ocean view – and facilities include tennis courts and several pools. ¥16,200

EATING MAP

Miyazaki specialities include beef, wild boar, ayu (sweet fish), shiitake mushrooms from the mountains, clams, flying fish and citrus fruits. There’s also good local sushi – retasu-maki – containing shrimp, lettuce and mayonnaise; chicken Namban – deep-fried, succulent chicken morsels with tartar sauce; and, in summer, hiyajiru, an aromatic soup of fish, tofu, cucumber and sesame, served ice-cold and then poured over hot rice. A popular local snack is cheese manju, consisting of a small, sweet almond butter-cake bun filled with melt-in-the-mouth cream cheese.

Gunkei ぐんけい 8-12 Chūō-dōri 0985 28 4365, gunkei.jp. Tender jidori free-range chicken (raised on their own farm), seared over coals and brought sizzling to the table is the order of the day in this great restaurant, decorated in traditional rustic style. There’s no English menu, but ask for the jidori set (¥2820) and you won’t be disappointed. Reservations strongly recommended. There’s another branch in Kiten Plaza, outside Miyazaki Station’s west exit (daily 5–11pm). Daily 5–11.30pm.

Ogura おぐら 3-4-24 Tachibanadōri-higashi 0985 27 7333. A diner-style restaurant offering good, cheap food, which has hardly changed since they invented chicken Namban (¥1010) here in 1968. They also serve burgers, fried pork cutlets, curry rice and other comfort food in generous portions. It’s a little way down an alley – look for the red-and-white awning. 11am–2.30pm & 5–8pm; closed Tues.

Okashi-no-Hidaka お菓子の日高 2-7-25 Tachibanadōri-nishi 0985 25 5300. This shop is the best place to sample Miyazaki’s delectable cheese manju. While you’re at it, try their Nanjya-kora Daifuku – a chilled package of soft white rice-flour, filled with red-bean paste, a strawberry, a chestnut and cream cheese; it’s absolutely divine. There’s another branch in the train station complex. Daily 9.30am–9pm.

Suginoko 杉の子 2-1-4 Tachibanadōri-nishi 0985 22 5798. One of the city’s most famous restaurants, at the southern end of Tachibana-dōri (entrance on the side street), serving delicious, good-value local cooking in elegant, rustic-chic surroundings. Offerings range from lunchtime curry sets (¥1000), through charcoal-grilled chicken and hiyajiru (¥2200) to seasonal kaiseki sets (¥4000). Reservations recommended, especially at lunchtime. Mon–Sat 11.30am–1.30pm & 5–9.30pm.

DRINKING MAP

The Bar ザバー 3F, 3-7-15 Tachibanadōri-higashi 0985 71 0423, thebarmiyazaki.info. Popular expat drinking hole, and a good base from which to organize further drinking. As well as laying on pool, Wii games and big-screen sports, the owner is also an expert source of advice regarding the region’s surf-spots. Tues–Sun 7pm–3am or later.

Aoshima

青島

Fourteen kilometres south of Miyazaki, the tiny island of AOSHIMA, just 1.5km in circumference, is little more than a heap of sand capped by a dense forest of betel palms and other subtropical plants. The island lies a five-minute walk across a causeway from the neighbouring town, also known as Aoshima. The island is at its best at low tide when you can explore the rock pools trapped on the surrounding “devil’s washboard” shelf of rocks, scored into deep grooves as if by a giant’s comb. After that, the only other thing to do is walk round the island – it takes all of fifteen minutes – and drop in at its small attractive shrine, Aoshima-jinja. It also bears the moniker of ‘Cat Island’; as this name entails, tiny Aoshima is home to a large number of the feline creatures – over one hundred of them, in fact.

Aoshima-jinja

青島神社

Swathed in vegetation, Aoshima-jinja is dedicated to Yamasachi Hiko, a god of mountain products. Each year he’s honoured with a couple of lively festivals: on the last weekend in July portable shrines are paraded round the island on boats and then manhandled back to Aoshima, while mid-January sees men rushing semi-naked into the sea. Come warmer weather, countless souls do likewise, though armed with surfboards – Aoshima is a prime base for the surfing fraternity.

Aoshima Subtropical Botanic Garden

宮交ボタニックガーデン青島 • Daily 8.30am–5pm • Free • mppf.or.jp/aoshima

Aoshima doesn’t really have many other sights worth stopping for, though the Aoshima Subtropical Botanic Garden, located beside the causeway, is worth a quick browse while you’re waiting for onward transport. Best known for its palm trees and bougainvillaea, it’s a popular strolling spot.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE AOSHIMA

By train You can take the JR Nichinan Line train from Miyazaki Station (roughly hourly; 30min; ¥370) to Aoshima Station, from where it’s an 800m walk east to the island; the map outside the station will point the way.

By bus Buses depart from Miyazaki Station’s west exit (1–3 hourly; 45min), with a stop at Depāto-mae, and drop you beside the west entrance to the botanical garden.

ACCOMMODATION

Aoshima Guesthouse Hooju 青島ゲストハウス風樹 0801 902 1691, hoojuaoshima.web.fc2.com. Worthy, sociable hostel on the mainland side of the island, just a few minutes’ walk from the causeway. Dorms are either tatami in style or bunk-bedded, rather pretty, and perfectly comfortable. Dorms ¥2500, twins ¥6000

Udo-jingū

鵜戸神宮 • Free; five undama ¥100 • The shrine is only accessible by road; buses run from Miyazaki (8 daily; 1hr 30min) via Aoshima (40min), and continue to Obi (40min); or take a train to Aburatsu Station (accessible from Miyazaki, Aoshima and Obi), then a bus (20min)

Eighteen kilometres south of Aoshima, a cleft in the rock hides one of this area’s most famous sights, Udo-jingū. The main shrine fills the mouth of a large, low cave halfway down the cliff face, its striking, vermilion torii and arched bridges vivid against the dark rock. According to legend, Udo-jingū was founded in the first century BC and marks the spot where Emperor Jimmu’s father was born. The rounded boulders in front of the cave are said to represent his mother’s breasts – expectant women come here to pray for an easy birth and newlyweds for a happy marriage. It’s also supposed to be lucky if you land a small clay pebble (undama) in the hollow in the top of the nearest “breast”; women throw with their right hand, men with their left.

Obi

飫肥

An old castle town 45km south of Miyazaki, OBI is a pristine little place with a number of samurai houses and a fine collection of traditional whitewashed warehouses, many of them immaculately restored, clustered under the castle walls. Obi’s heyday was under the Itō family, who were granted the fiefdom in 1588 and then spent much of their time feuding with the neighbouring Shimazu clan of Kagoshima. Only the walls of their once formidable castle remain, though the main gate and lord’s residence have been rebuilt in the original style. Central Obi lies in a loop of the Sakatani-gawa, with its historic core concentrated north of the main east–west highway.

Obi-jō

飫肥城 • Daily 9.30am–4.30pm • Ruins free; sights ¥200 each, or ¥610 for entry to all of them

In the old centre, you’ll find a few streets of samurai houses and carp streams, as well as the castle, Obi-jō, on the low hill behind. Walk north up Ōte-mon-dōri to enter the castle via its great southern gate and follow the path round to the right to find a white-walled history museum, which has a small but impressive collection of Itō family heirlooms.

Matsu-no-maru

松の丸

On the hill heading up from the main entrance stands the Matsu-no-maru, an exact replica of the rambling Edo-period buildings where the lords once lived, including the reception rooms, women’s quarters, tea-ceremony room and a lovely “cooling-off” tower, where the lord could catch the summer breezes after his steam bath.

Yoshōkan

豫章館

The rest of the castle grounds are now just grass and trees, but on the way out take a quick look at Obi’s largest samurai house, the Yoshōkan, immediately west of Ōte-mon gate. When the Meiji reforms abolished feudal holdings in the late nineteenth century, the Itō family moved to this more modest villa, which had previously belonged to their chief retainer. Though you can’t go in, the house is a lovely, airy building surrounded by a spacious garden that was designed with the backdrop of Mt Atago as “borrowed scenery”.

Komura Memorial Hall

小村記念館, Komura Kinentan

On the opposite side of Ōte-mon-dōri from the Yoshōkan, the Komura Memorial Hall commemorates a famous Meiji-era diplomat who was born in Obi in 1855. He’s best remembered for his part in concluding the 1905 peace treaty following the Russo-Japanese War; most of the museum’s material, much of it in English, revolves around this period.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OBI

By train The quickest way to reach Obi is by train from Miyazaki (roughly hourly; 1hr 10min; ¥940) via Aoshima. Obi Station lies on the east side of town, about a 15min walk across the river from the castle – staff at the ticket office can provide a sketch map. Electric bicycles can be rented outside the station (¥500/day).

By bus Buses from Miyazaki (10 daily; 2hr), Aoshima (10 daily; 1hr 30min) and Udo-jingū (10 daily; 40min) stop on the main road, a 5min walk south of the castle.

EATING

Obi-ten Chaya おび天茶屋 4-2-15 Obi 0987 25 1918. A nicely rustic restaurant in a garden immediately south of the Komura Memorial Hall. They sell good-value obi-ten teishoku (a local speciality of minced flying fish mixed with tofu, miso and sugar, rolled into a leaf shape and deep-fried), including rice, soup and pickles, for ¥950. Daily 9am–4pm.

Kirishima National Park

On the border between Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures, Kirishima National Park is known as the “Volcano Museum” because of its diverse array of more than twenty volcanic mountains, encompassing ten crater lakes and numerous hot springs. The traditional approach is from the park’s southern gateway, Kirishima-jingū, stopping first at a truly delightful shrine, shrouded by cryptomeria trees. This also provides the approach to the park’s easternmost and most significant peak, Takachiho-no-mine, which according to legend is where Ninigi-no-mikoto, grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu and legendary founder of the Japanese imperial line, descended to earth. However, the park’s main centre is the amenity zone of Ebino Kōgen, a cluster of shops, a hotel and a campsite on the plateau of the same name, from where it’s a short scramble up the highest peak, Karakuni-dake (1700m). The peaks are linked by a skein of hiking trails – it’s worth scaling at least one of them for superb views over jagged craters filled with perfectly round, cobalt-blue lakes and Sakurajima puffing angrily on the southern horizon.

Kirishima-jingū

霧島神宮

The village of KIRISHIMA-JINGŪ, built on the southern slopes of Takachiho-no-mine, provides the usual introduction to the national park, and makes a good base. It’s named after the beautiful shrine at its top end, set above an appealing village square that’s partly enveloped in cedar woods.

Kirishima Tengu-kan

霧島天狗館 • Daily, irregular hours • ¥250 • 0995 64 8880

The first sight of any interest in Kirishima-jingū village is Kirishima Tengu-kan at the top of the central square – look for the building sprouting long-nosed, goblin-like creatures. These are tengu, supernatural mountain spirits that often appear in folk tales, nō plays and, more recently, manga and video games. Inside, some 1600 masks are on display, including a monster over 2m in length carved from local camphor wood.

Kirishima-jingū

霧島神宮 • 24hr • Free

A short walk from Kirishima Tengu-kan – head over a red-lacquer bridge, beneath the bright vermilion torii and up a steep flight of steps – is the shrine of Kirishima-jingū. A surprisingly imposing complex, it’s dedicated to Ninigi-no-mikoto and his fellow gods who first set foot in Kirishima at the dawn of Japan’s creation. Said to have been founded in the sixth century AD, the shrine was moved here piece by piece in the fifteenth century from Takachiho-gawara, to avoid being engulfed in a lava flow. It provides some fine views over Kagoshima Bay.

Takachiho-gawara and Takachiho-no-mine

高千穂峰 • 高千穂河原 • Visitors’ Centre daily 9am–5pm • 0995 57 2505, www4.synapse.ne.jp/visitor

The summit of Takachiho-no-mine (1574m) is a good three-hour walk to the northeast of Kirishima-jingū, but rewards the effort with some fantastic views over the bay of Kagoshima. With your own transport you can at least halve the walking time by driving 7km up the road to Takachiho-gawara. It’s then a steady climb on a well-marked path, passing the former site of the Kirishima-jingū and, in May and June, stands of flowering Kyūshū azalea, ending in a short scramble on scree to the crater rim – where a replica of Ninigi’s sacred spear points skywards. Before setting off from Takachiho-gawara, you might want to take a brief look at the displays in the visitors’ centre, which is also surrounded by several nature trails (30min–1hr 40min), where you might encounter wild boar and deer.

Ebino Kōgen

えびの高原

At 1200m above sea level, the views from EBINO KŌGEN are stunning. Temperatures on the plateau rarely exceed 20°C in summer and dip well below freezing in winter, when the peaks boast a dusting of snow and hoarfrost and the tennis courts morph into ice-skating rinks. This is the best time to appreciate the local onsen – Kirishima is Japan’s highest hot-spring resort – while spring and autumn provide perfect hiking weather. Despite the natural beauty, the epicentre of Ebino Kōgen consists of a large, bleak car park, surrounded by several cafés and restaurants, souvenir shops and a visitors’ centre.

Karakuni-dake and around

韓国岳

If it’s a clear day, the hike up to Karakuni-dake from Ebino Kōgen is worth tackling: the volcano’s crater is nearly a kilometre in diameter and has commanding views of Sakurajima and inside the (active!) crater of Shinmoe-dake. It’s not a difficult climb, though you’ll want good footwear on the loose stones. From the rim of Karakuni-dake, it’s best to head southwest to Ōnami-no-ike (大波の池), Japan’s largest crater lake, and then back to Ebino Kōgen by a different trail – allow about three and a half hours for the circuit, or five hours if you decide to walk all the way around the rim of Ōnami-no-ike.

The classic walk from Karakuni-dake (5–6hr) is south along Kirishima’s magnificent volcanic peaks – Shishiko-dake (獅子戸岳; 1428m), Shinmoe-dake (新燃岳; 1421m) and Naka-dake (中岳; 1345m) – to Takachiho-gawara. However, in January 2011 Shinmoe-dake sprang back to life in spectacular fashion, sending 24 million tonnes of ash and pumice into the air, and the trail has been closed ever since; 2019 saw Shinmoe-dake reduced to alert level one (the lowest level), so it’s worth enquiring to see whether the trails have been reopened.

Hiking the Ebino plateau

There are also more gentle ambles across the Ebino plateau. The most rewarding is a 4km walk starting from behind the visitor centre, where you can use the free hot-spring footbath to ease your aching feet. The walk wends through forests of Japanese red pine and maple, and past three beautiful, cobalt-blue crater lakes. If you are here in May or June, head south from the visitor centre to where thirty thousand wild azaleas give the hillsides a dusty-pink tinge.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND KIRISHIMA NATIONAL PARK

By train If you don’t have your own transport, the best way to reach the national park is by train to Kirishima-jingū Station, in the valley 7km to the south of Kirishima-jingū village.

Destinations from Kirishima-jingū Station Kagoshima (10 daily; 40–50min); Miyazaki (10 daily; 1hr 20min).

By bus Buses from the station (7–10 daily; 15min; ¥250) coincide with train arrivals, and will drop you in the village, before heading on to Maruo Onsen (30min total from station; ¥480). From Maruo there are buses up to Ebino Kōgen (2–3 daily; 1hr; ¥740), via the Takachiho-gawara visitors centre (which makes for a scenic detour). Note that on weekends between March and Nov, there are daily buses direct to Ebino Kōgen from Miyazaki (2hr 30min; ¥2570 one-way, or ¥1800 return with a day-pass, if you’re going back the same day).

By sightseeing bus A daily sightseeing bus – a “designer” affair with sideways-facing seats – does a tour up to the shrine on a rather convoluted route; it’s only really worth taking from its beginning in Kokubu (on the JR line; departs 9am), or a bit further along in Kumamoto Airport (departs 10am). Prices start at ¥1100.

INFORMATION

KIRISHIMA-JINGŪ

Tourist information There’s a small tourist office (daily 9am–5pm; 0995 57 1588, kirishimakankou.com) beside the big torii at the south end of the main square, where you can rent bicycles (¥1000 for 4hr).

Services The main square has convenience stores and a post office.

EBINO KŌGEN

Tourist information It’s well worth having a look at the informative displays in the Ebino Eco Museum Centre (daily 9am–5pm; 0984 33 3002) on the north side of the car park, which also provides detailed trekking maps. While you’re here, take a look at the 3-D model of the area – it’s handy for getting the lie of the land.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

KIRISHIMA-JINGŪ AND AROUND

Sakura Sakura Onsen さくらさくら温泉 3km west of Kirishima-jingū, on the bus route from Kirishima-jingū Station and Kirishima-jingū village to Maruo 0995 57 1227, sakura-sakura.jp. This simple hotel offers Japanese-, Western-style and hybrid rooms, as well as log cabins, each with its own mud bath. It has several rotemburo, but its speciality is volcanic mud – especially popular with young women for its skin-softening effects. The stunning baths are open to non-residents (daily 10.30am–8pm; ¥700). Free pick-ups for guests from Kirishima-jingū Station. Half-board per person ¥9400

Tozan-guchi Onsen 登山口温泉 2459-83 Kirishimataguchi 0995 57 0127 or 0995 57 1188. Spruce little minshuku tucked just off the square – take the road heading east from the roundabout. It has a rooftop rotemburo and also doubles as a youth hostel (¥3780/person, without meals), with accommodation in shared tatami rooms. Half-board per person ¥7000

EBINO KŌGEN

Ebino-Kōgen Campground えびの高原キャンプ村 0984 33 0800. This campsite has an onsen, tents and cheap wooden cabins by a stream among the pine forests; rates include blankets and heating. Open April–Oct and over New Year (when it’s absolutely freezing). Per person ¥1650

Ebino-kōgen-sō えびの高原荘 0984 33 0161, ebinokogenso.com. A couple of minutes’ walk west of the central car park, this hotel offers comfortable Western and Japanese rooms with mountain views and a decent restaurant (full-board rates available). Non-residents can also use the smart rotemburo here (daily 11.30am–8pm; ¥520). Call ahead for a pick-up from Kirishima-jingū Station. ¥11,000

Kirishima Hotel 霧島ホテル 0984 78 2121, kirishima-hotel.jp. Though claiming to be a “historic hotel”, nobody’s here for old-school charm, but the decidedly modern onsen facilities – the “garden bath” almost comes across like an Oriental water park, and though a little tacky, it’s quite an eye-opener. The rooms are almost disappointingly pleasant by comparison, and the on-site restaurants are quite superb. ¥23,000

Kagoshima and around

鹿児島

KAGOSHIMA’s most obvious and compelling attraction is the smouldering cone of Sakurajima, one of the most active volcanoes on earth. On the other side of the bay from the city – just fifteen minutes away by ferry – it frequently billows an enormous cloud of ash into the southern Kyūshū sky. Local weather forecasts show which direction the plume is heading; if it’s coming your way, ash will get in your eyes, hair and teeth, while cars end up covered in a sheet of dust. Aside from the volcano, Kagoshima contains a few sights of its own which justify at least a day’s exploration. Highlight among them is Sengan-en, a fascinating seventeenth-century villa and formal garden with a grandstand view of Sakurajima.

Brief history

Originally known as Satsuma, the Kagoshima region was ruled by the powerful Shimazu clan for nearly seven centuries until the Meiji reforms put an end to such fiefdoms in 1871. The area has a long tradition of overseas contact and it was here that Japan’s first Christian missionary, the Spanish-born Jesuit Francis Xavier, arrived in 1549. Welcomed by the Shimazu lords – who were primarily interested in trade and acquiring new technologies – he spent ten months working in Kagoshima, where he found the poorer classes particularly receptive to Christian teachings. After just a few months Xavier declared “it seems to me that we shall never find among heathens another race to equal the Japanese”.

Soon after, Japan was closed to foreigners and remained so for the next two hundred years, although Satsuma was permitted to trade with China through their joint vassal state Ryūkyū (present-day Okinawa). As central control crumbled in the mid-nineteenth century, however, the far-sighted Shimazu Nariakira began introducing Western technology, such as spinning machines, the printing press and weapons manufacture, and it was Kagoshima that saw Japan’s first gas light, steamships, electric lights, photographs and Morse code transmission. However, not all relations were cordial. In 1862 an Englishman was decapitated in Yokohama by a Shimazu retainer for crossing the road in front of the daimyō’s procession. When the Shimazu refused to punish the loyal samurai or pay compensation, seven British warships bombarded Kagoshima Bay in 1863. Fortunately there was little loss of life and the Shimazu were so impressed by this show of force that three years later they dispatched nineteen “young pioneers” to study in London – many of these young men went on to assist the new Meiji government in its mission to modernize Japan. Easily Kagoshima’s most famous son, however, is Saigō Takamori.

Terukuni-jinja

照国神社 • 19-35 Terukuni-chō • 24hr • Free

SAIGŌ TAKAMORI AND THE SATSUMA REBELLION

Born in Satsuma in 1827, Saigō Takamori made his name as one of the leading figures in the Meiji Restoration. Though aware of the need for Japan to modernize, he grew increasingly alarmed at the loss of traditional values and eventually left the government to set up a military academy in Kagoshima. He soon became a focus for opposition forces – mainly disaffected samurai but also peasants protesting at punitive taxes. Things came to a head in January 1877 when Saigō led an army of forty thousand against the government stronghold in Kumamoto, in what came to be known as the Satsuma Rebellion. After besieging the castle for nearly two months, the rebels were forced to withdraw before the sixty-thousand-strong Imperial Army. They retreated to Kagoshima where they were gradually pinned down on Shiroyama. On September 24, the imperial forces closed in and Saigō, severely wounded, asked one of his comrades to kill him. His courage, idealism and heroic death earned Saigō enormous popular support – so much so that he was officially pardoned by imperial decree in 1891.

There are a few interesting sights in the area around Chūō Park, including the delightful Terukuni-jinja. The greenery and mossy tree trunks surrounding this shrine enable it to blend seamlessly into Shiroyama, the mountain rearing up behind the complex. The main hall, however, is somewhat disappointing – its surrounding buildings and statues are of more interest. The first statue you’ll come to is of Shimazu Nariakira, to whom the shrine is dedicated; somewhat bafflingly, they’ve given him a prime position overlooking the car park. His half-brother Hisamitsu, just to the east, is in a far nicer spot, surrounded by a pond-like stream; a former government advisor and minister, he led an excursion to Edo with a thousand retainers in 1862. Just to the south, by the car park, is Hisamitsu’s son Tadayoshi (also a son-in-law of Nariakira), who was instrumental in improving Japan’s relations with the UK.

City Art Museum

鹿児島市立美術館, Kagoshima Shiritsu Bijutsukan • 4-36 Shiroyama-chō • Tues–Sun 9.30am–6pm • ¥300 • 099 224 3400

Housed in a spacious modern building, the City Art Museum boasts a good collection of Impressionist and twentieth-century Western art, including works by Monet, Picasso and Warhol, as well as highly rated local artists such as Kuroda Seiki and Fujishima Takeji. Outside the museum, and facing south across Chūō Park, is a bronze statue of the close-cropped, portly Saigō Takamori, portraying him as an uncompromising military leader. Behind him are carp-filled moats and some bullet-pocked walls, remains of the castle, Tsurumaru-jō, that was destroyed in the 1877 Satsuma Rebellion.

Reimeikan

黎明館 • 7-2 Shiroyama-chō • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • ¥310 • 099 222 5100

North of the City Art Museum, an arched stone bridge from the former castle leads up to the Reimeikan museum, which provides a good introduction to local history and culture. Apart from a delightful mock-up of Tenmonkan arcade as it would have looked in the 1930s, the most interesting displays cover local festivals and the southern islands’ distinct traditions, showing the influence of Melanesian culture from the islands of the West Pacific.

Shiroyama

城山

Behind the Reimeikan museum, a path leads up through impressive stands of mature, subtropical trees to the top of Shiroyama hill. The twenty-minute climb is worth it for superb views over Kagoshima and the smouldering cone of Sakurajima.

City Aquarium

かごしま水族館, Kagoshima Suizokukan • 3-1 Honkoshin-machi • Daily 9.30am–6pm • ¥1500 • 099 226 2233, ioworld.jp

A fifteen-minute walk southeast from the Reimeikan museum, the City Aquarium sits on a man-made island in the harbour. Thanks to the warm Kuroshio Current sweeping across from the East China Sea, the waters around Kagoshima’s southern islands are rich in temperate and subtropical aquatic life, a broad range of which is on show in this well-designed installation, from Sakurajima’s unique tube worm to colourful sea anemones.

Museum of the Meiji Restoration

維新ふるさと館, Ishin Furusato-kan • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 • Sound and light show roughly hourly 9.15am–4.30pm • 099 239 7700, ishinfurusatokan.info

The engaging Museum of the Meiji Restoration sits beside the tranquil Kōtsuki-gawa. No expense has been spared to re-create the “golden age” of Kagoshima, when Saigō Takamori and other local luminaries were instrumental in returning power to the emperor and then spearheading the Meiji reforms. The highlight is a 25-minute sound and light show in which robots – including a wild-eyed Saigō – re-enact scenes from the restoration. The show takes place in the basement theatre, which also hosts a less compelling show about the “young pioneers” who studied in London. Upstairs, don’t miss the original version of the Japanese national anthem, recorded by the Satsuma Military Band in 1870, composed two years earlier by Irish bandmaster, John William Fenton.

Sengan-en

仙巌園 • Gardens, villa & Shōko Shūseikan Daily 8.30am–5.30pm • Gardens & Shoko Shuseikan ¥1000, or ¥1300 including entry to the villa • 099 247 1551, senganen.jp • Glass factory Tues–Sun 9am–noon & 1–5pm • Free • satsumakiriko.co.jp • City View tourist bus, or regular bus from Kagoshima Chūō Station or Tenmonkan (every 30min; 15–20min; ¥190)

When their base at Tsurumaru-jō was destroyed during the 1877 Satsuma Rebellion, the Shimazu lords set up residence in their garden-villa Iso Tei-en, now known as Sengan-en, which they had built in 1658. Now run by the 32nd and 33rd generations of Shimazu, Sengan-en, 3km east of the city centre, makes for a compelling visit of several hours. As well as the gardens, house and Shōko Shūseikan history museum, there’s also a glass-cutting factory where you can watch the artisans at work, a fine restaurant and a busy programme of events, including horseback archery, and chrysanthemum and iris festivals.

The gardens

The lovely formal gardens feature shapely ornamental rocks and rustic shrines. Though they’re now separated from the shoreline by a road and a rail line, you can still appreciate the panorama of Kinko Bay and Sakurajima that was designed to act as “borrowed scenery”: the bay taking the place of the pond that all feudal lords’ gardens were meant to have, the volcano instead of an artificial hill. At the east end of the grounds, the 200-year-old kyokusui garden is a lawn with a stream running through the middle, where poetry composition parties are still held, under the cherry and plum blossoms of April – sitting on the banks of the stream, each contestant must come up with a poem before a floating sake cup reaches them from upstream. Nearby, behind the villa, a stepped path leads up through lush, mossy woods to a viewpoint with spectacular vistas of Sakurajima and the city (20–30min walk each way).

The villa

You can tour the warren-like wooden villa either with an English-speaking guide or with an excellent handout in English. On the way you’ll pass beautiful cedarwood fusuma, painted with cherry blossoms and peonies, while kids can have fun looking for the eleven different varieties of kugi kakushi – decorative covers for nail heads in the shape of bats, giant Sakurajima radishes and the like. Round off the tour with a traditional Shimazu family sweet and a cup of green tea, while admiring the magnolia tree, pond and rocks of the beautiful inner garden.

Shōko Shūseikan and the glass factory

Just outside the main gardens entrance, Shuseikan was the first Western-style factory in Japan, constructed by Shimazu Nariakira in the 1850s. Part of it is now the Shōko Shūseikan, an engaging museum that celebrates the history of the Shimazu family, not least their modernizing zeal of the nineteenth century. Highlights include lovely palanquins and early examples of coloured glassware, Satsuma Kiriko. Shimazu Nariakira imported colouring techniques from China and blowing and cutting techniques from Venice via Tokyo to create this style of glass, with its gentle gradation between the coloured and transparent layers. Next door to Shōko Shūseikan, you’re free to go into the glass factory to watch the artisans blowing, layering and cutting.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KAGOSHIMA

By plane Kagoshima Airport ( koj-ab.co.jp), served by flights to Seoul, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Taipei as well as domestic routes, is located some 30km north of the city, near the Kirishima National Park. Buses leave the airport every ten or twenty minutes for Kagoshima Chūō Station and central Kagoshima’s Tenmonkan crossroads (about 1hr; ¥1250), some continuing to the ports.

Destinations Fukuoka (1 daily; 50min); Nagoya (9 daily; 1hr 25min); Naha (2 daily; 1hr 35min); Osaka (1–2 hourly; 1hr 10min); Tokyo (1–2 hourly; 1hr 35min); Yakushima (5 daily; 40min).

By train The Shinkansen line connects Kagoshima Chūō Station with Kumamoto, Hakata and Osaka; local trains use the same station (and sometimes Kagoshima Station, east of the city centre).

Destinations Fukuoka (every 30min; 1hr 20min–2hr 30min); Ibusuki (1–2 hourly; 50min–1hr 20min); Kirishima-jingū (10 daily; 40–50min); Kumamoto (every 30min; 40min–1hr 15min); Miyazaki (10 daily; 2hr–2hr 15min); Osaka (1–2 hourly; 3hr 50min–4hr 30min).

By bus Most bus services to Kagoshima stop at Kagoshima Chūō Station or the central Tenmonkan crossroads, or both; some continue to the terminal for Yakushima hydrofoils.

Destinations Chiran (9–10 daily; 1hr 20min); Fukuoka (every 30min–1hr; 4hr 30min); Kumamoto (4 daily; 3hr 20min); and Miyazaki (7 daily; 2hr 40min).

By ferry A Line ( 099 226 4141, aline-ferry.com) and Marix Line ( 099 225 1551, marixline.com) ferries sail to Naha, Okinawa from the Amami-Okinawa Ferry Terminal to the southeast of the city centre (4–6 weekly; 25hr; from ¥14,500); “Port Liner” buses leave Kagoshima Chūō Station’s east gate to coincide with departures. Ferries to Yakushima (1 daily; 4hr; ¥5000) depart from the more central Minami-Futō (South Pier; next to Dolphin Port shopping mall), while jetfoils to Ibusuki (1–2 daily; 40min; ¥2500) and Yakushima (6–7 daily; 1hr 50min–2hr 45min; ¥9200/16,600 one-way/return; www.tykousoku.jp) use the adjacent terminal; buses run to the jetfoil terminal from Kagoshima Chūō Station’s east gate via Tenmonkan (every 15min; 10min), or you can catch a City View bus to Dolphin Port.

GETTING AROUND

By tram Moving around central Kagoshima is simplified by a highly efficient two-line tram system. Both lines head westward from Kagoshima Station to Tenmonkan before splitting at Takamibaba, with the more useful Line #2 continuing to Kagoshima Chūō Station and beyond. There’s a flat fare of ¥170, which you pay on exit; trams run roughly every eight minutes from 6.30am–10.30pm.

By bus The local bus system is rather complicated, with services run by five different companies. However, City View tourist buses (easily recognizable, for they have dorsal fins) run a loop around the main sights from Kagoshima Chūō Station’s east gate, including Shiroyama and the aquarium (individual tickets ¥190; every 30min; 1hr).

Transport passes There’s a ¥600 one-day pass for trams and most city buses, including the City View tourist buses. Alternatively, the Welcome Cute pass (¥1000/day or ¥1500 for 2 days) covers all of the above plus the ferry to Sakurajima (including the Yorimichi Cruise) and the Sakurajima Island View Bus (though not the Sakurajima Regular Sightseeing Bus).

Car rental Budget has offices near Kagoshima Chūō Station ( 099 250 0543) and at the airport ( 099 558 3543).

INFORMATION

Tourist office Helpful tourist offices with lots of useful publications and maps in English can be found at Kagoshima Chūō Station (daily 8am–8pm; 099 253 2500, www.kagoshima-yokanavi.jp) and the downtown Prefectural Visitors Bureau on Asahi-dōri (daily 8.30am–5.15pm; 099 223 5771, kagoshima-kankou.com).

Hospital The most central hospital with English-speaking staff is the Kagoshima City Hospital ( 099 230 7000), 1km south of Kagoshima-chūō Station near Shiritsu Byōin-mae tram stop (line #2).

Police Kagoshima-chūō Police Station, 17-26 Shinyashiki-chō 099 222 0110.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Gasthof ホテルガストフ 7-1 Chūō-chō 099 252 1401, gasthof.jp. Remodelled in an eclectic mix of foreign styles, this hotel near the station is excellent value. The attention to detail is admirable – think bathrooms lined with pearlescent tiling, chunky beds and tartan frills. ¥9200

Green Guesthouse グリーンゲストハウス 5-7 Sumiyoshi-chō 099 802 4301, green-guesthouse.com. Excellent hostel with Japanese- and Western-style dorms, an easy 10min walk from Izuro-dōri tram stop and just a hop and a skip from the ferry terminals – great if you’ve got an early morning departure. There’s a lovely little bar downstairs, a rooftop terrace, rental bicycles and a computer for guests. For a mere ¥500 above the regular dorm price, you can sleep in a capsule-like private cabin. Dorms ¥1900, twins ¥5600

Nakahara Bessō 中原別荘 15-19 Higashi-Sengoku-chō 099 225 2800, nakahara-bessou.co.jp. Nicely decorated onsen hotel in the city centre overlooking Chūō Park. The spacious, en-suite Japanese-style rooms are the best value, and, though the rates quoted below are for room-only, the meals are highly recommended. Excellent rates for singles (¥5400). ¥13,000

KAGOSHIMA SHŌCHŪ

Kagoshima prefecture is Japan’s biggest producer and consumer of shōchū and the Japanese are in near-unanimous agreement that Kagoshima’s shōchū is the best in the land. There are more than 800 local varieties available, and these are usually made from imo (sweet potato) rather than rice, which makes for a heavier flavour and a higher alcohol content – 25 percent, rather than the national norm of 20 percent. As is the case elsewhere, one can have the hooch served straight, with soda, heated, mixed with hot water, or on the rocks. Like wine, each variety has its own specific taste – below are a few top picks to get you started. A good place to try local shōchū is in the city’s pleasantly sleazy nightlife district, in the lanes either side of the Sennichi arcade, south of Izuro-dōri; alternatively, buy it in the Kagoshima Brand Shop at the Prefectural Visitors Bureau.

Kaidō 海童 Served in a distinctive red bottle, this is perhaps the best low- to mid-range choice, and has a clean, crisp taste that works best on the rocks.

Kojika 小鹿 Cheap but high-quality option, whose slightly dry taste is magnified when served heated.

Kuro Kirishima 黒霧島 Okay, so this one’s actually from just across the border in Miyazaki (almost as renowned for shōchū as Kagoshima), but it’s worth mentioning – now ubiquitous across the land, it’s a tasty number that makes for an easy introduction to imo shōchū.

Maō 魔王 Running Mori Izō a close second for quality, this slightly sweet variety is a favourite with Kagoshima connoisseurs.

Mori Izō 森伊蔵 The king of local shōchū, this high-roller favourite can cost over ¥70,000 per bottle in a Tokyo izakaya, but is usually available here for a fraction of the price. Have it neat, or with hot water.

Nofū 野風 A rarity in Kagoshima shōchū terms, in that it’s made from corn rather than sweet potato. Though, being 35 percent alcohol by volume, you may not notice.

Shiranami 白波 The most famed variety in Kagoshima city itself, this is available in over a dozen different grades, including the somewhat hazardous 37 percent-alcohol Genshū variety.

Nakazono Ryokan 中薗旅館 1-18 Yasui-chō 099 226 5125, nakazonoryokan.wix.com/nakazonoryokan. There’s always service with a smile at this homely minshuku, tucked behind a temple opposite Kagoshima City Hall. The tatami rooms are clean and large enough, though facilities are mostly shared. Room-only ¥8400

Shiroyama 城山観光ホテル Shiroyama hill 099 224 2200, shiroyama-g.co.jp. Landmark hotel set among fountains and fairy lights on the hill, with very high standards of service. Many of the luxurious, Western-style rooms and the open-air onsen enjoy great views over the city to Sakurajima. Free, regular shuttle bus to the station and Tenmonkan; reductions on rate sometimes available. ¥25,000

Sun Royal サンロイヤルホテル 1-8-10 Yojiro 099 253 2020, sunroyal.co.jp. This luxury hotel is in a slightly inconvenient location southeast of the centre, but the meals are excellent (especially the breakfast buffet – extra cost), there’s a scenic top-floor onsen and all rooms are exceedingly comfortable; ask for one with a Sakurajima view. Very good rates for singles (¥11,290). ¥20,200

Tokyu REI 東急REIホテル 5-1 Chūō -chō 099 256 0109, tokyuhotels.co.jp. A short walk from the Shinkansen, this is very good value, with the soothing atmosphere of the lobby continuing on to the rooms. You won’t regret shelling out a little extra for breakfast – served with a view of the river, and featuring tasty local specialities. ¥7900

EATING MAP

Central Kagoshima is chock-full of restaurants, with the classiest establishments in a tight, semi-pedestrianized area west of Tenmonkan-dōri. Its most popular speciality foods are satsuma-age, a deep-fried, slightly sweet patty of minced fish and sake, eaten with wasabi and soy sauce, and steaks of succulent kurobuta pork. The prettiest local dish is kibinago sashimi, in which slices of a silvery, sardine-like fish are arranged in an eye-catching flower head. Keihan mixes shredded chicken with carrot, egg, mushroom and spring onions over a bowl of rice in a hot, tasty broth, while sake-zushi consists of sushi with a drop of sake. For snacks, there’s satsuma-imo ice cream (made with sweet potato) and jambo mochi – rice cakes smothered in sweet sauce and impaled on a pair of bamboo skewers.

Aji-no Nana-chōme 味の七丁目 7-38 Nishisengoku-chō 099 224 6711. A true local’s place, with no English-language sign outside, or menu inside. Most are here for the tasty dumplings made with kurobuta (black pig) meat; they cost ¥500/550 boiled/fried, though paying around double will get you them as part of a hearty set meal. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–8pm.

Bluelight ブルーライト 16-9 Chūō-chō 099 285 2300, kurokatutei.net. Here since the summer of ’73, this kissaten (old-school café) wouldn’t look out of place in Tokyo’s Ginza neighbourhood: brown-and-amber colour scheme, smoke wafting around, jazzy music, a functional payphone (kids, ask your parents), and not a flat white in sight. Coffee from ¥400. Sun–Thurs 9am–11.30pm, Fri & Sat 9am–3am.

Kagomma Furusato Food Village かごっまふるさと屋台村 6-4 Chūō-chō kagoshima-gourmet.jp. This fairly new outdoor food court has been a real hit since opening for tourists and locals alike. You’ll have no fewer than 25 stalls to choose from, most serving tasty local specialities; lunch deals are often a steal, and it’s also a great place to try Kagoshima’s shōchū. Daily noon–2pm & 5pm–midnight.

Kurokatsu-tei 黒かつ亭 16-9 Chūō-chō 099 285 2300, kurokatutei.ne. If you like your katsu (breaded cutlet), don’t miss this cheery restaurant, which has taken the colour aspect of the black-pig pork meat it uses, and run with it – the clapboard exterior is black, the volcano dust effect on the floor is black, and most of the menu is too. For lunch, katsu will cost ¥770–1080, and a dinner teishoku will set you back ¥960. Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–8pm.

Sake Sake さけ咲 1-10 Chūō-chō 099 214 5885, wako-21.jp. This lively, cradle-to-grave operation near the station specializes in black, free-range Kurosatsuma chickens bred on its own farm – so fresh that they can be served as sashimi (not actually raw, but cooked very rare). The grilled chicken with mayonnaise and suzu (citrus) sauce (¥1200) is excellent, and the kurobuta teppanyaki, served on a plate of lava from Sakurajima, is also very tasty and sweet. Mon–Thurs & Sun 5pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 5pm–1am.

Satsuma-aji さつま路 6-29 Higashi-Sengoku-chō 099 226 0525, satumaji.co.jp. Elegantly rustic restaurant in the heart of Kagoshima’s trendiest area, serving fairly pricey but top-quality local food. Lunch sets start at ¥1600, or try their famous kurobuta shabu-shabu (¥2200; feeds two). Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9pm.

DRINKING MAP

Big Ben ビッグベン Gourmet-dōri 099 226 4470, bigben1001.com. From the name, and the Union Jack outside, you’d expect a British-style pub, but in reality it’s a regular-looking Japanese bar. Nevertheless, it’s a hit with local expats, and also popular with locals (in part due to its imported booze) – all in all, it’s a great place to meet people and the city’s best venue for watching international sports. Find it on Gourmet-dōri, a narrow lane of restaurants and cafés, in the basement. Mon–Thurs & Sun 5.30pm–1/2am, Fri & Sat 5.30pm–4am.

Sasakura 酒々蔵 9-17 Yamanokuchi-chō 099 224 1356. There are over 500 different types of Kagoshima shōchū (¥350–1000) available in this traditionally styled izakaya, and good, inexpensive food to soak it up with, though you’ll have to pay a ¥600 cover charge if you’re here for anything more than a couple of drinks. Mon–Sat 6.30pm–2.30am, Sun 6.30pm–1.30am.

Soul Master ソールマスター 18-3 Higashisengoku-chō 099 248 8200. Cool upstairs bar that also works as a café. Most drinks are ¥500–800; the soundtrack’s wall-to-wall soul, and the walls are wall-to-wall soul-music sleeves. Daily noon–2.30pm & 6pm–2am.

Sakurajima

桜島

Kagoshima’s most stirring sight is the volcanic cone of SAKURAJIMA, which grumbles away just 4km from the city centre, often pouring a column of dense black ash into the air. This is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and hiking its peak has been prohibited since 1955 – adventurous sorts should note that security cameras have been installed around the mountain. A single road (40km) circles Sakurajima at sea level, past a couple of observation points, lava fields and onsen baths – the island’s smouldering cone provides tangible proof of just how their waters have been heated. Kagoshima’s Welcome Cute pass can be used for getting to and around the island.

EXPLOSIVE ISLAND

Major eruptions of Sakurajima have been recorded from the early eighth century, but the most violent in living memory was that of 1914, during which enough lava spilled down the southeast slopes to fill the 400m-wide channel that previously separated Sakurajima from the mainland. Volcanic activity has increased since 1955, with thousands of small explosions occurring every year, and scientists now predict another major eruption within the next few decades. During periods of high activity, the likely direction of the ash cloud forms part of the weather forecasts on TV – it usually heads northeast during colder months, and west (towards Kagoshima city centre) in the summer, when you may find yourself crunching granules of dust that were, just a few hours beforehand, several hundred metres below the surface of the earth, and considerably hotter. Sakurajima’s prime viewing point is its eastern coast at night-time – if you’re in luck, you may well see the faraway glow of molten lava.

Rainbow Sakurajima Onsen

レインボー桜島温泉 • 1722-16 Yokoyama-chō • Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–10pm, Wed 1–10pm • ¥390 • 099 226 2233, ioworld.jp

The Rainbow Sakurajima Onsen sits inside the eponymous hotel, an easy walk from the ferry. The big onsen baths here provide lovely views of Kinko Bay, though sadly none of the puffing mountain behind; if you don’t feel like baring all, try the free footbaths outside, in a newly manicured area.

Yunohira Observatory

East of the island’s ferry terminal, a tortuous route heads up the volcano’s west flank to the Yunohira Observatory (373m). This is the closest you can get to the deeply creviced summit, which in fact comprises three cones, from the highest, northerly Kita-dake (1117m), to Minami-dake (1040m), the most active, in the south. Weather permitting, you’ll also be treated to sweeping views of Kagoshima Bay.

The rest of the island

Heading along the island’s south coast, Sakurajima’s brooding presence becomes more apparent as you start to see the lava fields around the Arimura Observatory, barren since the devastating explosion of 1914. A little further on, past the narrow isthmus, look out on the left for the torii of Kurokami-jinja, buried in 1914. It was originally 3m tall, but now just the top crossbars protrude from a bed of ash and pumice. Along the north coast, the slopes get gentler and you’ll see plenty of crops growing in the fertile volcanic soils, which produce not only the world’s largest radishes – up to 40kg in weight and over 1m in diameter – but also its smallest mandarins, measuring a mere 3cm across.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SAKURAJIMA

By ferry Ferries from Kagoshima (1–4 hourly; 15min; ¥160) dock at a small pier on Sakurajima’s west coast. The service operates 24 hours a day, and you pay at the Sakurajima end; vessels have little noodle bars on board, and you’ve just enough time for a bowl if you order quickly. If you fancy spending longer on the water, take the special daily sailing at 11.05am (the Yorimichi Cruise; ¥500, pay at the Kagoshima pier), which cruises around the bay for 50min, passing lava islands produced by the 1914 eruption, on its voyage from Kagoshima to Sakurajima. In Kagoshima, the pier is east of the city centre near the aquarium; it’s a stop on both City View bus routes or a 5min walk from Suizokukan-guchi tram stop.

Tourist information The visitor centre (daily 9am–5pm; 099 293 2443, sakurajima-kinkowan-geo.jp/en) is an easy 10min walk from the Sakurajima ferry terminal, around the south side of the harbour just beyond the Rainbow Sakurajima hotel. Fronted by a bayside park with free hot-spring footbaths, it has English-speaking staff and exhibits and audiovisuals about the volcano.

GETTING AROUND

Sakurajima Regular Sightseeing Bus Most people get around using the Sakurajima Regular Sightseeing Bus, which loops up to Yunohira Observatory before doing a complete circuit of Sakurajima. It departs twice daily from Kagoshima Chūō Station (East Exit, bus stop E-8; 8.55am & 1.40pm; 3hr 40min; ¥2300 including return ferry tickets); you can also pick it up from Sakurajima ferry terminal (9.40am & 2.30pm; 2hr 10min; ¥1800).

Sakurajima Island View Bus Alternatively, once on the island, you can also use the Sakurajima Island View Bus, which just does the shorter loop up to the Yunohira Observatory and back (8 daily; 1hr, including stops at Yunohira and two other lookout points; ¥120–440, or ¥500 for a day pass, which also gets you ¥80 discount at the Rainbow Sakurajima onsen).

By car and bike The island is much too large to walk, but Sakurajima Rent-a-Car ( 099 293 2162) rents cars (¥4800 for 2hr, then ¥1000/hr) and bicycles (¥300/hr) just outside the ferry terminal. Note that if you’re cycling, it’s best to go clockwise around the island (around 4hr), as you will usually be on the outside of the road and thus more visible to cars. If you’re only planning a short ride, you’ll find the north coast far nicer than the south, where most of the traffic pours through on the way to the ferries.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Rainbow Sakurajima レインボー桜島 1722-16 Yokoyama-chō 099 293 2323, rainbow-sakurajima-com. This modern hotel on the seafront, less than a 10min walk south round the harbour from the ferry terminal, makes a good base for exploring the island. It offers a mix of Japanese and Western (twin-bedded) rooms and a big onsen bath. Sharing these bay views, its restaurant is a good lunch option for day-trippers: lunch sets go from ¥1000, and include quirky treats like the “magma” curry, shaped like a volcano. Restaurant daily 11.30am–2pm. ¥10,000

Ibusuki and around

指宿

Japan’s third-largest hot-spring resort by volume of water, the small town of IBUSUKI is a low-key, relaxed place, where onsen-goers clank around in their wooden sandals, wearing the different coloured yukata of competing ryokan. The town’s main attributes are an attractive setting on a sweeping bay and a sand bath where you can be buried up to the neck in hot sand – a more enjoyable experience than it sounds. Ibusuki’s main north–south avenue is palm-tree-lined Hibiscus-dōri, while Chūō-dōri, which counts as Ibusuki’s prime shopping street, leads from the JR station to meet Hibiscus-dōri and the sea at the bay’s midpoint.

Surigahama

摺ヶ浜 • Sand bath Mon–Fri 8.30am–noon & 1–9pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–9pm • ¥1080, including sand bath, onsen and yukata rental; ¥200 to borrow a bath towel • 0993 23 3900, sa-raku.sakura.ne.jp

Ten minutes’ walk south of Chūō-dōri brings you to the southern stretch of beach known as Surigahama, where a clutch of shops and restaurants gathers around the famous sand bath (suna-mushi). Like much of Japan’s coast, the beach is protected by concrete breakwaters, but a few stretches of black volcanic sand remain, from which wisps of scalding steam mark the presence of hot springs.

Taking a sand bath is the done thing in Ibusuki, and is best at low tide when you can be buried on the beach itself, leaving just a row of heads visible beneath snazzy sunshades; at high tide a raised bed beside the sea wall is used. You can buy tickets (and a small souvenir towel to wrap round your head) and change into a yukata in the modern Saraku (砂楽) bathhouse immediately behind the beach. You then troop down to the beach and lie down. At over 50°C, the sand temperature is much hotter than at Beppu, and most people find it difficult to last the recommended ten minutes. All sorts of claims are made as to the sand bath’s medical benefits, but if nothing else it leaves you feeling wonderfully invigorated, especially if you finish off with an onsen back at Saraku.

Satsuma Denshōkan

薩摩伝承館 • In Ryokan Ibusuki Hakusuikan, about 3km north of the station • Daily 8.30am–7pm • ¥1500 (including English audio guide) • 0993 23 0211, satsuma-denshokan.com • Buses roughly hourly to Gatayama stop

A gorgeous double-roofed building in a Nara/Heian style, surrounded by a rippling pond, Satsuma Denshōkan stands in the grounds of a luxury ryokan and was built eight years ago for the owners’ art and history collections. The ground floor showcases Kinrande, elaborate, multicoloured stoneware decorated with high-relief gold, which was produced around Kagoshima and became very popular in the West in the late nineteenth century. It all looks rather gaudy for modern tastes, and you’ll probably find the first-floor displays of more restrained, early Satsuma ware and beautiful imperial Chinese ceramics more appealing.

Kaimon-dake

開聞岳 • From Ibusuki Station take the JR line to Kaimon Station (8 daily; 35min; ¥370)

Though rather small at 922m, the triangular peak of Kaimon-dake is known locally as “Satsuma Fuji”. The volcano last erupted some 15,000 years ago and some of it is now a nature park inhabited by wild Tokara ponies. The classic route up Kaimon-dake is from Kaimon Station, the start of a 5km-long path which spirals round the cone. It takes about two hours each way and the effort is rewarded with views south to the islands of Yakushima and Tanegashima, and north beyond Sakurajima to Kirishima.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION IBUSUKI

By train The easiest and quickest way to reach Ibusuki is on the JR line from Kagoshima Chūō (1–2 hourly; 50min–1hr 20min; ¥1000), which features special Ibusuki-no-tamatebako trains three times a day; book at least a day or two ahead, and sit on the east side of the train for sea views. Ibusuki Station is on the west side of town.

By bus Buses stop on the road outside the station, and the Kagoshima Kōtsū bus office is across the road.

By jetfoil It’s also possible to arrive by jetfoil from Kagoshima (1 daily; 40min; ¥2600; www.tykousoku.jp), which offers views across Kinko Bay if you manage to reserve a window seat. The jetfoil heads on to Yakushima (1hr 15min; ¥7400).

Tourist information There’s a tourist information desk inside the train station (daily 9am–6pm; 0993 22 4114), which rents out electric bikes (¥500/2hr).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Sennari-sō 千成荘 5-10-9 Yunohana 0993 22 3379. Good-value place 200m north of the sand bath on Hibiscus-dōri, with a home-like atmosphere, friendly staff and small but sparkling en-suite tatami rooms. Dinner and breakfast available. ¥9200

Syusuien 秀水園 South end of Hibiscus-dōri 0993 22 6789, syusuien.co.jp. Excellent, very traditional ryokan with immaculate service and spacious, en-suite tatami rooms, decorated throughout with beautiful objets d’art. The public and private onsen are lovely, and the restaurant, where the private rooms are designed like a lane of cottages, serves truly superb kaiseki meals (open to non-guests; from ¥5000; reservations advised). Restaurant Mon–Fri 6–8pm, Sat & Sun 11am–1pm & 6–8pm. ¥40,000

Tamaya Youth Hostel 圭屋ユースホステル 5-27-8 Yunohana 0993 22 3553, jyh.or.jp. Acceptable place to stay opposite the sand bath, about a 15min walk from the station, with Japanese- and Western-style dorms, dinner and breakfast available and a computer for guest use. Dorms ¥3325

EATING MAP

Aoba 青葉 1-2-11 Minato 0993 22 3356. Conveniently located on the main road just north of the station, this restaurant serves a broad range of inexpensive dishes, including kurobuta-katsu (black-pork cutlet; ¥1420), and local eel on rice (¥2800). 11am–3pm & 5.30–10pm; closed Wed.

Paddle パドル 1-6-3 Minato 0993 24 4175. Nice izakaya-style venue that’s just about the only non-seedy place to drink in town. They also do cheap pizzas, pastas and curries (¥700–900). Mon–Sat 11.30am–2pm & 6pm–midnight.

Chiran

知覧

A small town lying in a broad valley, CHIRAN owes its fortune to the Shimazu lords of Kagoshima. In the eighteenth century, the Shimazu’s chief retainers, the Sata family, were permitted to build a semi-fortified village, and a number of their handsome samurai houses survive today. Two hundred years later, an airfield on the outskirts of Chiran became a base for kamikaze suicide bombers during World War II, now commemorated by a museum on site. The road to it from the town centre is lined with stone lanterns, one for each pilot.

The samurai houses

武家屋敷, Buke Yashiki • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500 • 0993 58 7878

On the east side of the town centre, several samurai houses – known as buke yashiki – are scattered along an attractive lane that runs for 700m parallel to and south of the main road towards Kagoshima, behind ancient stone walls topped by neatly clipped hedges. Since many of the houses are still occupied, you can’t see inside, but the main interest lies in their small but intricate gardens, some said to be the work of designers brought from Kyoto. Seven gardens, indicated by signs in English, are open to the public. Though each is different in its composition, they mostly use rock groupings and shrubs to represent a classic scene of mountains, valleys and waterfalls taken from Chinese landscape painting. In the best of them, such as the gardens of Hirayama Katsumi and Hirayama Ryōichi, the design also incorporates the hills behind as “borrowed scenery”. Look out, too, for defensive features such as solid, screened entry gates and latrines beside the front gate – apparently, this was so that the occupant could eavesdrop on passers-by.

Hotaru-kan

ホタル館 • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥400

The main road runs roughly east–west through Chiran town centre: just after it crosses the river for the first time, five minutes’ walk from the samurai houses, you’ll find Hotaru-kan, a moving museum that commemorates the young kamikaze pilots. During the war this old wooden house was a restaurant, run by a motherly figure called Torihama Tome, who saw hundreds of young pilots pass through on their way to certain death. Many left personal possessions and messages for their families with Tome-san, some of which are now on display, alongside deeply moving pictures, letters and personal effects. Unfortunately, there are no English-language translations.

Special Attack Peace Hall

特攻平和会館, Tokko Heiwa Kaikan • 2km southwest of the town centre on the main road towards Makurazaki • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥500, or ¥600 including Museum Chiran; audio guide ¥100 • 0993 83 2525, www.chiran-tokkou.jp

The Special Attack Peace Hall (aka Chiran Peace Museum) marks the site of a military airfield that was established in 1941. Three years later Chiran was chosen as the main base for the “Special Attack Forces”, known in the west as kamikaze pilots. During the battle of Okinawa, 1036 pilots died; before leaving, they were given a last cigarette, a drink of sake and a blessing, after which they donned their “rising sun” headband and set off on the lonely, one-way mission with enough fuel to last for two hours. It seems that many never reached their target: the toll was 56 American ships sunk, 107 crippled and 300 seriously damaged.

The hall, which was established in 1975, is essentially a memorial to the pilots’ undoubted courage and makes little mention of the wider context or moral argument. That aside, the photos, farewell letters and the pilots’ often childish mascots are tragic mementoes of the young lives wasted. Several pilots’ letters reveal that, though they knew the war was lost, they were still willing to make the ultimate sacrifice – you’ll see many older Japanese people walking round in tears and it’s hard not to be moved, despite the chilling overtones. Since very little is translated into English, make sure you pick up an audio guide at the ticket desk.

Museum Chiran

ミュージアム知覧, Myūjiamu Chiran • 2km southwest of the town centre on the main road towards Makurazaki • 9am–5pm; closed Wed • ¥300, or ¥600 including the Special Attack Peace Hall (see opposite) • 0993 83 4433

Beside the Peace Hall, you can visit the more cheerful Museum Chiran. Concentrating on local history and culture, its exhibits are beautifully displayed, with the most interesting showing the strong influence of Okinawan culture on Kagoshima’s festivals and crafts.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION CHIRAN

By bus Bus services to Chiran from Kagoshima run more or less hourly (1hr 20min), stopping at the samurai houses a few minutes before Hotaru-kan (Nakagori-machi stop), and the Peace Hall a few minutes after; the last bus back to Kagoshima is usually around 6.30pm. Buses from the sand baths and the station in Ibusuki serve the same stops in the opposite direction (5 daily; 1hr 10min).

Tourist information In the expansive car parks in front of the Peace Hall, you’ll find the town’s information office (daily 9am–4pm; 0993 83 1120), where you can pick up handy maps and bus timetables.

EATING

Taki-an 高城庵 East end of the samurai houses street 0993 83 3186. In this lovely, thatched former samurai house, you can sit on the tatami mats and admire the rock and moss garden. Their speciality is soba and udon (from ¥660), or try the sweet jambo-mochi (pounded rice on bamboo skewers). Daily 10.30am–2.30pm.

Yakushima

屋久島

Craggy mountain peaks; wave after wave of dripping rainforest; towering cedar trees which predate the Roman Empire; and the all-pervasive scent of moss and flowers – if this all sounds a little like the setting for an anime, rather than real-life Japan, you’d be half-right: Miyazaki Hayao was said to have taken his inspiration from Yakushima’s lush forests when creating Princess Mononoke. Logging companies worked the forests until the early 1970s, but now much of the island is protected within the Yakushima National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Climbing steeply from the sea some 60km off Cape Sata, Yakushima encompasses the eight highest mountains in Kyūshū, centred on 1935m-high Miyanoura-dake. It’s one of the rainiest places in Japan, with an average annual rainfall of at least 4m on the coast and a staggering 8–10m in its mountainous interior. All this creates an astonishing vertical distribution of vegetation, ranging from subtropical at the coast to subarctic on the peaks, where the Yakushima gentian numbers among the island’s 94 endemic plant species.

Yakushima’s population of around 13,000 is confined to the coast, concentrated in the two main towns of Miyanoura and Anbō. An increasingly popular tourist destination, Yakushima now boasts a number of swish resort hotels in addition to simpler accommodation. Most people, however, come to hike and camp among the peaks, where the Yaku-sugi (Japanese cedars more than a thousand years old) are found. For the less adventurous, Shiratani Unsuikyō and Yaku-sugi Land forest reserves contain a few more accessible trees and can be reached by public bus. Otherwise, there are a couple of good local museums, seaside onsen on the south coast, and several beaches, two of which – Isso and Nakama – offer decent snorkelling. Lastly, if you’re in luck, you may get to see rocket launches from the nearby island of Tanegashima, the centre of the Japanese space agency.

There are no dry months here, but the best time to visit is May, when the rhododendrons are at their best, or during the autumn months of October and November. June sees by far the highest rainfall, followed by a steamy July and August. Winter brings snow to the peaks, although sea-level temperatures hover around 15°C.

Miyanoura

宮之浦

While first impressions of MIYANOURA, Yakushima’s main town, aren’t very favourable, the place soon grows on visitors, and it’s a delight to walk around the port and simply appreciate the calm atmosphere.

Yakushima Environmental and Cultural Village Centre

屋久島環境文化村センター, Yakushima Kankyō Bunkamura Sentā • Daily 9am–5pm; closed third Tues of month (not Aug) & second half of Feb • Film hourly; 25min • ¥520 • 0997 42 2900, yakushima.or.jp

The informative Yakushima Environmental and Cultural Village Centre is set in a modern white building, just two minutes’ walk up from the ferry pier. The exhibits are arranged in a spiral, proceeding from the ocean up through village life and the cedar forests to the mountain tops. Allow time to see the film, projected onto a huge screen, which takes you on a fabulous helicopter ride over the island.

Shiratani Unsuikyō

白谷雲水峡 • 24hr • ¥300 • Bus from Miyanoura port (4 daily; 35min)

Dank, mossy and mysterious, the forest reserve of Shiratani Unsuikyō, 12km south of Miyanoura, offers an easy opportunity to encounter Yaku-sugi (Japanese cedars). Two looped trails (1–3hr) and an in-and-out route (4hr; the first part of the longer trail to Jōmon-sugi) lead through old-growth forests of laurel. Along the way the trails pass crashing waterfalls and a dozen of the ancient cedars, some of which have whole epiphytic rowan trees growing on them, producing a spectacular display in autumn.

Inland from Anbō

From Miyanoura, the main road leads southeast past the airport to the rather scruffy town of Anbō (安房). Here, you turn inland for a wonderful forty-minute ride into the mountains, corkscrewing up into a lost world wreathed in drifting cloud banks. Every so often there are glimpses of plunging, tree-filled valleys, the lush greens accentuated by cascading, ice-white torrents.

Yaku-sugi Museum

屋久杉自然館, Yaku-sugi Shizen-kan • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥600 • 0977 46 3113, yakusugi-museum.com • Bus from Anbō (2 daily; 5min)

Some 2km outside Anbō on the road up to the interior, the well-designed Yaku-sugi Museum is full of fascinating displays about the ancient cedar trees, revealing that they’re so resistant to decay and insects because of their high resin content. There’s also a stump and cross section of a 1660-year-old tree and a virtual reconstruction of Wilson’s Stump as it might have looked today if it hadn’t been felled.

Yaku-sugi Land

屋久杉ランド • 24hr • ¥300 • Bus from Anbō (2 daily; 40min to Yaku-sugi Land, 1hr to Kigen-sugi)

At around 1000m above sea level, a wooden resthouse marks the entrance to YAKU-SUGI LAND, a forest reserve that contains four looped walking trails varying in length from 800m (around 30min) to 3km (around 2hr 30min). The three shortest and most popular walks wind along an attractive river valley that is home to several thousand-year-old cedar trees, their gnarled roots clinging to the rock, as well as clumps of rhododendron, and macaques and deer. For those with the time and energy, the longest course is by far the most interesting, taking you deeper and higher into the forest past another four Yaku-sugi, of which the oldest is the 2600-year-old Hahako-sugi (“Mother-and-child Cedar”).

Near the terminus of the bus route, 6km up the paved road from Yaku-sugi Land stands Kigen-sugi, a grand old lady of 3000 years with 21 kinds of epiphyte living on her, including rhododendron and rowan.

Jōmon-sugi

縄文杉 • Bus to Arakawa Dam from Yaku-sugi Museum (March–Nov 4–8 daily; 35min); or bus to Shiratani Unsuikyō from Miyanoura port (4 daily; 35min)

The trees in Yaku-sugi Land are mere saplings compared with the great Jōmon-sugi, whose mossy, tattered trunk, 16.4m in circumference, looks more like rock face than living tissue. The tree is at least 2300 years old, though some estimates go back 7200 years, which would make it pre-date Ancient Egypt – since its centre has rotted away it’s impossible to tell exactly. Growing 1300m up in the forest and five hours’ hike from the nearest road, the tree was only discovered in 1968, an event which sparked moves to protect the forests and create the tourist industry that now accounts for over half the island’s economy.

Jōmon-sugi stands on the north face of Miyanoura-dake (宮之浦岳), 2km west of Wilson’s Stump, the remnant of a 2000-year-old Yaku-sugi named after an early twentieth-century English botanist. The tree was felled by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1586 to build a giant Buddha temple in Kyoto, and now shelters a spring and a shrine in its massive hollow interior.

There are two trailheads for the walk to Jōmon-sugi via Wilson’s Stump, both accessible by bus: the Arakawa Dam; and the more distant Shiratani Unsuikyō.

Onoaida and the south-coast onsen

Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen 平内海中温泉 • Low tide only • ¥100 • Yudomari Onsen 湯泊温泉 • 24hr, closed Tues morning for cleaning • ¥100 • Bus from Miyanoura via Anbō (roughly hourly; 1hr 20min)

On Yakushima’s southern coast, the area around the tiny town of Onoaida (尾之間) is surrounded by orchards of tropical fruits, such as mango, papaya, lychee and orange, while bright sprays of bougainvillea and bird-of-paradise flowers decorate the villages. A few kilometres west of Onoaida, Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen makes the perfect place to kick back with the locals in a hot rock pool overlooking the sea. You just have to get the timing right – the pool is only uncovered for an hour or two either side of low tide – though most locals and the tourist offices will be able to tell you the times each day. If the tide doesn’t agree with your own schedule, head 500m west along the coast to the slightly less scenic, lukewarm rock pool of Yudomari Onsen.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE YAKUSHIMA

By plane Yakushima’s tiny airport ( 099 742 1200), roughly midway between Miyanoura and Anbō, is served by all buses between the two towns.

Destinations Fukuoka (1 daily; 1hr); Kagoshima (5 daily; 40min); Osaka (Itami; 1 daily; 1hr 35min).

By hydrofoil Toppy “jetfoils” run between Kagoshima and Yakushima (6–7 daily; 1hr 50min–2hr 45min; ¥9200/16,600 one-way/return; www.tykousoku.jp); you can buy tickets from a travel agent or at their offices in Kagoshima ( 099 226 0128), Miyanoura ( 099 742 2003) or Anbō ( 099 746 3399). Some of these services also stop at Tanegashima or Ibusuki en route; most of them dock at Miyanoura, but one or two use Anbō port. You’re not allowed to leave your seat during the voyage, so arrive early for your departure if you’d like to bag a window seat. Bear in mind that hydrofoils stop running in bad weather.

By ferry The Yakushima 2 departs daily from Kagoshima (4hr; ¥5000); buy tickets at the terminal.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Yakushima’s road system consists of one quiet highway circumnavigating the island, plus a few spurs running up into the mountains. Buses depart roughly hourly from outside the Toppy terminal on Miyanoura ferry pier for Anbō (40min; ¥810) and the Iwasaki Hotel in Onoaida (1hr; ¥1270). There are also buses from Miyanoura and Anbō up into the mountains. If you’re planning to get around by bus, it’s well worth getting hold of a bus pass (¥2000/3000/4000 for one/three/four days; not valid for the Arakawa Dam bus).

By car The biggest rental company, Toyota, has branches at Miyanoura port ( 099 742 2000) and the airport ( 099 743 5180), and operates a taxi service. Make sure you keep the tank topped up since there are no petrol stations on west Yakushima between Hirauchi and Nagata; many of those on the rest of the island close in the evening and on Sundays.

By bicycle You can rent bikes (¥1000/day) at the Yakushima Kankō Center (屋久島観光センター), on the main road opposite the Miyanoura ferry terminal; and at You Shop in Anbō ( youshop-nangoku.jimdo.com). In summer, the latter opens a shop in Miyanoura and allows one-way rentals.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information The most useful tourist office is in the Yakushima Environmental and Cultural Village Centre in Miyanoura (daily 9am–5pm; 099 742 1019). You can pick up bus timetables, maps and brochures here and they can book accommodation. There are also offices at Anbō port (daily 9am–6pm; 099 746 2333) and the airport (daily 9am–6pm; 099 749 4010). The website Yakumonkey ( yakumonkey.com) has good, up-to-date information.

Services Half a dozen post offices on the island, including in Miyanoura and Anbō, have international ATMs. The Yakushima Kankō Centre, on the main road opposite the entrance to Miyanoura ferry pier, offers a left-luggage service (¥300/bag/day).

Dive and hiking equipment There are a number of dive and hiking shops on the island that rent gear; enquire at the Miyanoura tourist office for details.

Adventure tours The Yakushima Nature Activity Centre ( 099 742 0944, ynac.com), on the main drag in Miyanoura, offers guided hiking, mountain biking, canyoning, kayaking, snorkelling and scuba diving.

ACCOMMODATION

Yakushima has a fair range of accommodation, but you still need to plan well ahead during holiday periods. Note that those hiking the interior can make use of unstaffed mountain huts, basic shelters without electricity or cooking facilities; ask at one of the island’s tourist offices for advice.

MIYANOURA

Yakushima Youth Hostel 屋久島ユースホステル 099 749 1316, yakushima-yh.net. Conveniently located just a 10min walk round the harbour from the ferry pier, this has simple but pleasing rooms, a seaside terrace, and a computer, washing machine and mini-kitchen for guest use. Dorms ¥3600

Yakusugi-sō 屋久杉荘 099 742 0023, yakusugisou.com. On the east bank of the river south of the main bridge, this gorgeous minshuku has well-appointed tatami rooms, which range from cosy to absolutely huge, most sharing bathrooms. Free pick-up from the port, and breakfast and dinner included. ¥15,000

Yaman-kami 山ん神 099 742 0618, www5.synapse.ne.jp/yamankami. One of the cheapest minshuku in the area, and it’s quite lovely – built in a sort of chalet style, its tatami rooms are simple and have shared facilities, but are perfectly comfortable. It’s on the west side of the river, backing up against the hillside; free pick-ups from the port. Room-only per person ¥3000

ANBŌ

Minshuku Shiho 民宿志保 099 746 3288. The best cheap option in the area – a white bungalow shaded by palm trees, it’s the first building you come to on the road up from the pier, and provides spick-and-span, no-frills tatami rooms. No evening meals served. Breakfast included. ¥11,000

Sankara 8km south of Anbō 099 747 3488, sankarahotel-spa.com. At this appealing boutique hotel, the rooms have been designed in keeping with Yakushima’s natural vibe, and all have balconies with a sea view. The attached spa is rather heavenly, while the main on-site restaurant serves local ingredients in a distinctively French style. Half-board per person ¥31,000

ONOAIDA

Iwasaki いわさきホテル 099 747 3888, iwasakihotels.com. Luxury hotel in expansive grounds on a hill overlooking Onoaida, with an onsen and a four-storey replica Yaku-sugi in the atrium. The Japanese- and Western-style rooms are very spacious and comfortable, with French windows and balconies to make the most of the views. The very good, top-floor restaurant is open to non-residents (two-course lunch ¥1130, kaiseki dinner from ¥6000 or à la carte). Restaurant daily noon–2pm & 6–9pm. ¥25,000

EATING AND DRINKING

MIYANOURA

Issou Coffee 一湊珈琲 By the port 050 5435 1627, issou-coffee.com. “Rediscover your favourite latte, the Yakushima way”, as this portside roastery café puts it. Their main focus is the shipping, sometimes internationally, of quality beans (imported from East Africa to Japan, hauled all the way to Yakushima, roasted, then exported... what a world), but it’s a great place to scratch your caffeine itch in the morning. Coffee from ¥500. Fri–Tues 11.30am–5.30pm.

Naminohana 波の華 5min walk south of Miyanoura’s main bridge on the Shiratani Unsuikyō road, 50m beyond A Coop on the right 099 742 3955, nami-no-hana.com. This is where the locals come to eat: don’t expect an English-language menu, or speedy service; do expect an exceedingly cheery atmosphere in the evenings, and delicious meals of kurobuta shabu-shabu (¥1500) and flying fish (tobi-uo), the local speciality (¥1000 for a set) – the latter dish lands on your table with its wings still on, like a little fried angel. Tues–Sun 11am–2pm & 6–9pm, or when the last customer leaves.

ANBŌ

Rengaya れんが屋 On the road down to the harbour 099 746 3439. This pleasantly rustic venue specializes in venison but offers a varied menu, including yakiniku (meat barbecued at your table) and tonkatsu (pork cutlets), with set meals from around ¥1500. Daily 11am–2pm & 6–10pm.

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OKINAWA’S SEALIFE

Okinawa

Okinawa-Hontō

Kerama Islands

Miyako Islands

Yaeyama Islands

Okinawa

Mention Okinawa to a mainland Japanese and you’ll likely receive a wistful sigh in return. Perpetually warm weather, clear seas bursting with fish, fantastic food, gentle people, unspoiled beaches and jungles... the list could go on. More than one hundred subtropical islands, collectively known as the Ryūkyū Shotō, stretch over 700km of ocean from Kyūshū southwest to Yonaguni-jima, within sight of Taiwan on a clear day, and provide one of Japan’s favourite getaways. Getting here may be a little costly, but Okinawa’s lush vegetation, vision-of-paradise beaches and superb coral reefs can charm even the most jaded traveller – if you’ve had your fill of shrines and temples and want to check out some of Japan’s best beaches and dive sites, or simply fancy a spot of winter sun, then Okinawa is well worth a visit.

The largest island in the group, Okinawa-Hontō, usually referred to simply as Okinawa, is the region’s transport hub and home to its prefectural capital, Naha. It’s also the most heavily populated and developed of the Ryūkyū chain, thanks largely to the controversial presence of American military bases. Okinawa-Hontō boasts a number of historical sights, many of them associated with the Battle of Okinawa at the end of the Pacific War. But the island has more to offer than just battlegrounds, particularly in its northern region, where the old way of life still survives among the isolated villages.

To see the best of Japan’s most distinctive prefecture, you’ll have to hop on a plane or ferry and explore the dozens of outer islands away from Okinawa-Hontō, many of them uninhabited. One of the most accessible places to head for is Zamami-jima, part of the Kerama Islands and just a short ferry ride west of Naha, which offers great beaches and diving and has recently become a centre for whale-watching. For a real sense of escape, however, you need to go further south, to Miyako-jima and the Yaeyama Islands. The latter grouping includes mountainous Ishigaki-jima; Taketomi-jima, a tiny place with almost no traffic and a languid, end-of-the-line feel; and nearby Iriomote-jima, often described as Japan’s last wilderness. On most of these islands, it’s the scenery and watersports that provide the main attractions, but Iriomote has the added distinction of its unique wildlife population (including the elusive Iriomote lynx) and lush, almost tropical, rainforest.

RYŪKYŪ CULTURE

On Okinawa’s outer islands, you’ll find evidence of the much-vaunted Ryūkyū culture, borne of contact with Taiwan and China, as well as the rest of Japan. The most obvious expressions of this culture are found in the islands’ cuisine and in a vibrant use of colour and bold tropical patterns, while the Chinese influence is clearly visible in the region’s architecture, traditional dress and the martial art of karate – the Ryūkyū warriors’ preferred mode of protection. Ancient religious beliefs are kept alive by shamen (called yuta) and, in central Okinawa-Hontō, there are sumo bouts between bulls. There’s also a Ryūkyū dialect, with dozens of variations between the different islands, unique musical instruments, and a distinctive musical style that has reached an international audience through bands such as Nēnēs, Diamantes and Champloose.

If you’re lucky, you’ll stumble upon local festivals, such as tug-of-war contests or dragon-boat races, while the biggest annual event is the Eisā festival (on the fifteenth day of the seventh lunar month, usually late August or early September), when everyone downs tools and dances to the incessant rhythms of drums, flutes and the three-stringed sanshin.

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PEACE MEMORIAL PARK

Highlights

Diving From the soft corals and tropical fish around the Kerama Islands to the enigmatic rocks near Yonaguni-jima, Okinawa offers a wealth of outstanding diving experiences.

Peace Memorial Park Located on the island’s southeast coast, the Peace Memorial Park includes various monuments, a cemetery and a 12m-high Buddha statue.

Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium Get to grips with Okinawa’s diverse sea life without the need to don diving gear at one of the world’s most spectacular aquariums.

Zamami-jima Just a short ferry ride from Naha, this island has some of Japan’s finest beaches and offers the chance to spot whales or snorkel with turtles.

Taketomi-jima Wave goodbye to the daytrippers and watch the stars come out on this tiny, beach-fringed island.

Iriomote-jima Take advantage of the great kayaking and trekking opportunities on this adventure paradise, or kick back on the remote, yet serenely beautiful, beach near Funauki.

HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP

With its subtropical climate, Okinawa stays warm throughout the year. Average annual temperatures are around 23°C, with a winter average of 17°C and a minimum of 10°C. Winter (or what passes for it) stretches between December and February, while the hot, humid summer can start as early as April, and continues into September. Temperatures at this time hover around 34°C, and the sun can be pretty intense, though the sea breezes help. The best time to visit is in spring or autumn (roughly March to early May and late September to December). The rainy season lasts from early May to early June, while typhoons can be a problem in July and August, and occasionally all the way into October.

Brief history

In the fifteenth century, the islands that now make up Okinawa were united for the first time into the Ryūkyū kingdom, governed from Shuri-jō in present-day Naha. This period is seen as the golden era of Ryūkyū culture. Trade with China, the rest of Japan and other Southeast Asian countries flourished, while the traditionally non-militarized kingdom maintained its independence by paying tribute to China. But then, in 1609, the Shimazu clan of Kagoshima (southern Kyūshū) invaded. The Ryūkyū kings became vassals to the Shimazu, who imposed punitive taxes and ruled with an iron hand for the next two hundred years, using the islands as a gateway for trade with China when such contact was theoretically outlawed by the Tokugawa Shogunate. When the Japanese feudal system was abolished in the 1870s, the islands were simply annexed to the mainland as Okinawa Prefecture. Against much local opposition, the Meiji government established a military base and tried to eradicate local culture by forcing people to speak Japanese and swear allegiance to the emperor, forbidding schools to teach Ryūkyū history.

Battle of Okinawa

By the early twentieth century, Okinawa had been fairly successfully absorbed into Japan and became a key pawn in Japan’s last line of defence during the Pacific War. Following the battle of Iwō-jima in March 1945, the American fleet advanced on Okinawa and, after an extensive preliminary bombardment, referred to locally as a “typhoon of steel”, the Americans invaded on April 1, 1945. It took nearly three months of bitter fighting before General Ushijima, the Japanese commander, committed suicide and the island surrendered. The Battle of Okinawa left over 20,000 American troops dead (plus over 50,000 injured) and up to 150,000 on the Japanese side, nearly half of whom were local civilians.

WILDLIFE IN OKINAWA

Besides Hokkaidō, Okinawa contains Japan’s largest areas of unspoiled natural environment and its greatest biodiversity. Much of this wealth of wildlife is underwater, spawned by the warm Kuroshio Current that sweeps up the east coast and allows coral reefs to flourish. But there are a number of endemic species on land, too, including turtles, a crested eagle and the noguchigera (Pryer’s woodpecker), in addition to Iriomote’s wildcat, the yamaneko. A less welcome local resident is the highly venomous habu snake. It measures around 2m in length, is dark green with a yellow head, and usually lurks in dense vegetation or on roadsides; it rarely ventures into urban areas. As long as you’re careful – especially during spring and autumn, when the snakes are more active – you should have no problems; if you are bitten, make for the nearest hospital, where they should have antivenin.

American occupation

It’s estimated that one third of the population of Okinawa died in the war, many in mass suicides that preceded the surrender, and others from disease and starvation. But the islanders’ subsequent anger has been directed at the Japanese government rather than America. Most people feel Okinawa was sacrificed to save the mainland – this was the only major battle fought on Japanese soil – and that they were misled to believe they were luring the American fleet into a trap. Compounding this was the behaviour of Japanese troops, who are accused of denying locals shelter and medical treatment, and ultimately of abandoning them to the Americans.

By comparison, the American invaders were a welcome relief, despite the islanders’ worst fears. They brought in much-needed food supplies – Spam was an instant hit, and a precursor of the processed luncheon meat found in pork champurū – and gradually helped restore the local economy. This wasn’t wholly altruistic, of course, since Okinawa was ideally placed for monitoring events in Southeast Asia. As the 1950s Korean War merged into the Vietnam War, so the American bases became a permanent feature of the Okinawa landscape.

Japanese sovereignty

Okinawa remained under American jurisdiction until 1972, when local protests led to the restoration of Japanese sovereignty. Since then, the two governments have colluded to maintain an American military presence on the island despite growing opposition, which reached a peak when three American servicemen were found guilty of raping a twelve-year-old schoolgirl in 1995; a similar incident took place in 2008, while 2016 saw demonstrations following the alleged murder of an Okinawan woman by an American military contractor.

Okinawa has, in recent times, borne witness to some curious political shifts. Shimajiri Aiko came to power in the 2007 local elections, winning with a focus on the local economy rather than military issues. However, the latter came to the fore in national elections two years down the line, when Hatoyama Yukio was elected prime minister on a pledge to remove, rather than relocate, the Futenma air base – his failure to do so saw him step down in disgrace less than a year later. In 2016, Iha Yōichi replaced Shimajiri as Okinawa’s representative in the national Upper House, after running on an anti-American military ticket, while 2018 saw Denny Tamaki appointed Governor of Okinawa – although the latter was born to a US Marine father, and became the first Amerasian member of the Japanese House of Representatives, he is also strongly aligned against the American military presence.

DIVING IN OKINAWA

With scores of dive sites around Okinawa-Hontō – and many more around the outer islands – one of the best reasons for visiting Okinawa is to go diving. There are plenty of dive shops, but only a few with English-speaking instructors. PADI courses are available on Okinawa-Hontō from Natural Blue and the American-run Reef Encounters ( reefencounters.org). Once you have your certificate, the islands are yours for the taking. Prices vary, but equipment rental is generally ¥3000–5000, first dives are ¥8000–11,000, and second dives are usually a couple of thousand more. To rent equipment, you should know the metric readings of your height, weight and shoe size.

DIVE SITES

There are great diving opportunities every way you turn on the islands, but the following sites are particularly notable.

Zamami-jima Expect fantastic hard corals, more reef fish than you could count in a week and plenty of turtles.

Miyako-jima There are over fifty dive spots to choose from, though cave dives are particularly popular.

Ishigaki-jima As well as rare blue coral reefs off Shiraho-no-umi, you can expect to swim with barracuda, butterfly fish, redfin fusiliers, spadefish and manta rays.

Iriomote-jima There’s easily accessible coral in the waters surrounding this enchanting island.

Yonaguni-jima For the ultimate dive experience, head way out here to see sea turtles and hammerhead sharks, and to explore the enigmatic rocks that some claim are the remains of a sunken civilization.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OKINAWA

By plane The vast majority of visitors arrive by plane. Most come from the Japanese mainland, though there are international flights to Naha. Domestic airlines operate between Naha and most major Japanese cities; Naha acts as a hub for the rest of the islands, though there are direct services from the mainland to Ishigaki and Miyako. While flying can be expensive, overseas visitors can take advantage of the air passes offered by Japan Airlines (JAL) and All Nippon (ANA). In addition, budget carriers fly to the islands, including Jetstar, Peach, Solaseed and Skymark; Peach also fly directly to Ishigaki from Osaka and Tokyo.

By ferry The most pleasant way to get to Okinawa is by ferry: there are sailings to Naha from Tokyo, Osaka and Kōbe, as well as several cities on Kyūshū.

GETTING AROUND

By plane These days, getting around between the island groups is almost entirely done by plane. Using Naha as the main hub, inter-island flights are operated by Japan Transocean Air, Ryūkyū Air Commuter and ANA Wings, with connections to all major islands.

By ferry There are services from Naha to the Kerama islands, though you’ll have to fly to head south to Miyako-jima or the Yaeyama Islands. The Yaeyamas themselves are well connected by ferry services.

By bus Okinawa-Hontō has a fairly decent bus network; most smaller islands have bus services, though they can be very sparse indeed.

By car The lack of a strong bus network on the smaller islands is a good reason to rent a car: Okinawa is among the most pleasant places to drive in Japan.

Okinawa-Hontō

沖縄本島

Once the centre of the Ryūkyū kingdom, Okinawa-Hontō, or Okinawa Main Island, is a strangely ambivalent place. Locals are proud of their Ryūkyū heritage, but to some extent the island still feels like occupied territory, especially in central Okinawa-Hontō where the American bases have become a bizarre tourist attraction for mainland Japanese.

Fascinating though all this is, it doesn’t make Okinawa-Hontō the most obvious holiday destination. But if you’re drawn by the more appealing outer islands, chances are you’ll spend some time here waiting for plane or ferry connections. Okinawa-Hontō’s capital city (and the former Ryūkyū capital) is Naha, whose prime attraction is Shuri-jō, its reconstructed, World Heritage-listed castle. There are also some interesting market streets and a pottery village to explore, and you might want to take advantage of the banks here – not to mention the excellent bars and restaurants – before heading off.

Southern Okinawa-Hontō saw the worst of the fighting in 1945, and the scrubby hills are littered with war memorials, particularly around Mabuni Hill where the final battles took place. North of Naha, the island’s central district has little to recommend it, but beyond Kadena the buildings start to thin out. Here you’ll find one of the better “Ryūkyū culture villages”, Ryūkyū-mura, and the island’s best beaches. The largest settlement in northern Okinawa-Hontō, Nago is also an appealing town for visiting the stunning Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium and exploring the scenic coastline and mountainous tip of the island, culminating in the dramatic cape of Hedo Misaki.

EAT YOUR WAY TO 100: OKINAWAN CUISINE

The Japanese have famously long average lifespans – the current life expectancy is just under 85 years, while 350 people in every million live to 100 years of age. These are both world-ranking toppers, yet in Okinawa those stats go through the roof; the tiny village of Ōgimi, on the northeast of the main island, is often said to be the oldest place on earth, since it boasts over a dozen centenarians. Such figures are put down to the fact that Okinawa has particularly low incidences of heart disease, cancer and other maladies, and this in turn is attributed to the diet of the islanders – even more fish, tofu, grains, veggies and soy products than mainland Japan, with a fraction of the meat, sugar or dairy goods. Visiting Okinawa might just add a few weeks to your life; what follows are a few recommended culinary specialities to look out for on your way around.

Gōya champurū A stir-fry featuring egg, pork and slices of gōya (bitter melon), this is the most famous Okinawan dish, and when done right it’s extremely tasty. Variants include fū champurū, which is made with tofu instead of gōya.

Shimahata It almost seems a crime to eat such a beautiful fish – this local one’s a big fella with gorgeous red and yellow stripes. Other sea goodies to look out for (then gobble) are irabucha, a blue parrotfish; gurukun, a small fish usually served fried; and yakōgai, a giant turban shell.

Sōki soba The local favourite, featuring yellow wheat noodles, spring onions and bonito flakes in a clear soup, with hunks of pork rib – still on the bone, they’ll give your chopstick skills a thorough examination. The quality of the pork varies substantially; in some places it’s mostly fat and gristle, while in better venues (such as those listed throughout this chapter) the meat is lean and tender. Variants include Okinawa soba and Yaeyama soba.

Sukugarasu Tiny pieces of tofu topped with a salted minnow. Often served with awamori, it should be eaten in one bite.

Taco rice OK, so this one’s not so healthy. It would be, if made with the other tako (octopus); instead, what we have here is a bed of rice topped with taco ingredients: minced meat, cheese, veggies, tomato salsa and a little spice. Unsurprisingly, it tastes great.

Umi budō Sold in Naha’s market areas as “green caviar”, this is actually a strange sort of seaweed, made up of poppable bubbles that do, indeed, resemble sturgeons’ eggs. Yummy stuff, it’s often served with local sashimi.

Awamori Also worth a mention is Okinawa’s own variant on sake; it’s anywhere from 30–50 percent alcohol, though even the “weak” stuff can give you a banging headache. Orion is the local beer of choice.

GETTING AROUND OKINAWA-HONTŌ

By car Long and thin, Okinawa-Hontō measures just 135km from top to toe, so you can drive the whole length in a matter of hours. The best way to get around is to rent your own car or motorbike, particularly if you want to explore the northern hills.

By bus Buses head around the island from Naha, but travelling in this way will likely involve a lot of waiting for connections (see individual accounts for details).

Tours An easier alternative to bus travel or car rental is to join one of the organized bus tours out of Naha, which pack a lot into a short time at a reasonable price. The Hip Hop buses operated by Jumbo Tours ( 098 917 5575, jumbotours.co.jp) are a good, foreigner-friendly choice with English-language commentary (which notably doesn’t run non-stop, unlike most of the Japanese-oriented tours). They run four separate full-day tours from Naha (¥5500–6000), all bookable online.

Naha

那覇

The Okinawan capital of NAHA should, in fairness, be a place to get things done and be on one’s way. This is the only large city in a region of Japan that leans heavily on nature – despite being capital of the Ryūkyū kingdom for over four hundred years, wartime destruction and rampant commercialization have colluded to ensure that there’s precious little to see bar bland residential blocks. Despite this, and the near-constant stream of Japanese holidaymakers, Naha somehow makes a great place to kick back. A fair proportion of the locals you meet will be mainland Japanese, here to trade in a hefty chunk of their salary for a relaxed lifestyle. Foreign travellers often end up staying far longer than they planned – the weather’s great, the food’s terrific, beaches and bars are never far away, and busting a gut to get somewhere else just wouldn’t be in the Okinawan spirit of things.

There are, of course, a few things you shouldn’t miss while you’re here. The beautifully reconstructed Shuri-jō, the old Ryūkyū kings’ castle, constitutes the city’s major sight and is well worth visiting; the Tsuboya district, a pleasing area of little workshops and dusty galleries that is famous for its pottery kilns, is fun for a wander; and there’s Naminoue beach, a short curl of sand that would boast grand sea views were it not for the roads firing across the waves a few dozen metres offshore. Domestic tourists make a beeline for Kokusai-dōri, the city’s main thoroughfare.

Shuri-jō and around

Perched on a hill 3km northeast of central Naha, Shuri-jō served as the royal residence of the Ryūkyū kings from the early fifteenth century until 1879. Elaborate ceremonies took place in the castle’s opulent throne room, on occasion attended by envoys from China and, later, from Kyūshū. Very little of the original remains, but the present buildings, painstakingly restored in the early 1990s, are certainly worth seeing for their distinctive blend of Chinese and Japanese architecture.

Shuri-jō

首里城 • 1-2 Shurikinjo-chō • Bus #1 from Kokusai-dōri or #17 from Naha Bus Terminal (every 15–20min; 30min), or a 10min walk from Shuri monorail station

The site of Shuri-jō was where the king, surrounded by gilded dragons writhing against lustrous red and black lacquer, would review his troops or watch ceremonies from in the courtyard below. Sadly, an accidental fire devastated the site in October 2019 and severely damaged and destroyed entire sections; at the time of writing, a restoration plan was set to be drafted by 2022, so it’s best to check local sources for updates.

Shuri-jō Park

首里城公園

A quiet place featuring a stone-walled pond and ancient trees, Shuri-jō Park lies across the road from the Shuri-jō exit. The pond’s pretty island pavilion once belonged to Engaku-ji, and was built in 1492 as the local headquarters of the Rinzai sect; it was said to have been the most impressive structure in the kingdom. Nowadays, only a few shell-pocked walls remain of the original temple, east of the pond.

Okinawa Prefectural Museum

沖縄県立博物館, Okinawa Kenritsu Hakubutsukan • 3-1-1 Omoromachi • Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am–6pm; Fri & Sat 9am–8pm • ¥530; art museum ¥400; extra for special exhibitions • 10min walk from Omoromachi monorail station • 098 941 8200, museums.pref.okinawa.jp

Sitting on the route between Shuri-jō and central Naha, the splendid Okinawa Prefectural Museum is worth seeing on your way to or from the castle. Designed to make visitors feel that they’re stepping onto an island, and partly open-air in nature, this modern venue provides a good overview of local history, nature and culture; a separate wing focuses on local art and puts on diverting exhibitions several times a year.

Kokusai-dōri and around

国際通り

The busiest place in town is Kokusai-dōri, effectively the city’s main road, even though few locals choose to hang out here; nearly 2km long, it’s lined with a strange mix of tourist restaurants, souvenir stalls and army-surplus outlets selling American military leftovers. The market area to the south is charmingly ramshackle; within its several covered arcades you’ll find some great souvenirs, as well as one of Japan’s best fish markets.

Naha Traditional Craft Center

那覇市伝統工芸館, Naha-shi Dentoū Kōgeikan • 3-2-10 Makishi • Daily 10am–8pm • ¥310; craft classes ¥1540–3100 • 098 868 7866, kogeikan.jp

If you’re interested in local crafts, drop by the Naha Traditional Craft Center on the second floor of the Tembusu building off Kokusai-dōri, near Mitsukoshi. The entrance fee will get you into a small gallery with prime examples of fabrics, ceramics, glass and lacquerware, but more interestingly (and without paying the entrance fee) you can watch artisans fashion these objects in the adjoining workshops and studios. You can try your hand at weaving, bingata dyeing, glass-blowing, pottery and lacquerware, and there’s also a well-stocked gift shop.

Naha Market and Dai-ichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba

那覇市場, Naha Ichiba • 第一牧志公設市場, Dai-ichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba • Daily 9am–8pm, closed fourth Sun of every month

Just south of Kokusai-dōri, the various covered arcades that make up Naha Market are great places for a wander – 1960s architecture, cheap fruit and occasionally hilarious Okinawan novelty T-shirts are all on the agenda. Among the souvenir stalls and discount outlets, these covered streets host a number of lively markets, of which the best is Ichiba’s food market, Dai-ichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba. The ground-floor stalls are piled high with sweet-smelling tropical fruits, every conceivable part of pig and ice-packed arrays of multicoloured fish and mysterious, spiny crabs. You’ll see fishmongers deftly slicing sashimi, some of it destined for the food stalls upstairs.

Tsuboya

壺屋

The pottery district of Tsuboya is a compact area that’s been the centre of local ceramics production since 1682, when the government gathered a number of workshops together – ten are still in operation today. Traditionally, the potters here produced large jars for storing the local liquor (awamori) and miso paste, but nowadays they concentrate on smaller items for the tourist market, typically half-moon-shaped sake flasks and snarling shiisā lions.

Tsuboya Pottery Museum

壺屋焼物博物館, Tsuboya Yakimono Hakubutsukan • 1-9-32 Tsuboya • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • ¥350; top-floor art exhibits free • 098 862 3761

To get an overview of the area’s history, drop into the Tsuboya Pottery Museum, which is less than a hundred metres from the end of Naha Market’s arcades. It’s a decent enough place, though the exhibitions of earthenware can feel a little repetitive. If you exit through the back door, you’ll see the remains of an ancient kiln.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE NAHA

By plane Naha Airport (那覇空港) occupies a promontory some 3km southwest of the city centre. One terminal handles flights from mainland Japan and to Okinawa’s outer islands, while the adjacent building is for overseas flights. From the airport, you can either take a taxi (around ¥1500) or the monorail (¥300) for the short journey into central Naha, or one of several frequent local buses departing from outside the terminal buildings (¥230).

Destinations Fukuoka (1–3 hourly; 1hr 40min); Hiroshima (1 daily; 1hr 40min); Ishigaki (1–3 hourly; 1hr); Kagoshima (2 daily; 1hr 15min); Kōbe (7 daily; 1hr 50min); Kumamoto (1 daily; 1hr 35min); Kumejima (7 daily; 35min); Matsuyama (1 daily; 1hr 35min); Miyako (1–2 hourly; 45min); Miyazaki (1 daily; 1hr 35min); Nagasaki (1 daily; 1hr 35min); Nagoya (15 daily; 2hr); Osaka (1–3 hourly; 1hr 50min); Okayama (1 daily; 1hr 50min); Sapporo (1 daily; 3hr 35min); Sendai (1 daily; 2hr 45min); Takamatsu (1 daily; 1hr 50min); Tokyo (1–4 hourly; 2hr 30min); Yonaguni (1 daily; 1hr 15min).

By bus Services run around the island from Naha Bus Terminal (那覇バスターミナル), just east of the Asahibashi monorail stop. This is also where most of the local bus tours start.

By ferry The ferry port, Naha Shin-kō (那覇新港), lies 2km north of the city centre. Most ferries from mainland Japan dock here, while slow boats from Kagoshima pull in further south at the old Naha Port Terminal (那覇埠頭). Naha Shin-kō is on the #101 bus route (1–3 hourly; 25min; ¥230), while Naha Port is more conveniently located about a 15min walk from the bus terminal. Marix Line ( 098 868 9098, marixline.com) and A-Line Ferry ( 098 861 1886, www.aline-ferry.com) have slow boats from Kagoshima (from ¥14,500); the latter also has sailings from Kansai, alternating between Osaka and Kōbe (from ¥19,000). From the Tomari Port, on the west side of the city centre, there are sailings to Zamami-jima and other islands due west; you’ll have a choice of fast (at least 2 daily; 55min; ¥3140) or slow services (10am daily; 2hr; ¥2120), though note that bad weather can see everyone lumped onto the latter.

Destinations Kagoshima (2 daily; 25hr); Kumejima (2 daily; 3hr 30min); Osaka/Kōbe (2–3 monthly; 41hr); Zamami-jima (3 daily; 55min–2hr).

GETTING AROUND

By monorail The smart monorail (daily 6am–11.30pm; single-station hops ¥150, otherwise ¥230–330; yui-rail.co.jp) is a useful way to get around, linking Naha Airport with Shuri, 13km away. You can buy tickets from the machines by the gates.

By bus There are plenty of local buses, though services can be confusing and traffic often gridlocks at peak times. There’s a flat fare of ¥230 within the city, but on other buses you’ll need to take a numbered ticket on entry and pay when you disembark.

By car Nippon Rent-a-Car ( 098 868 4554, nipponrentacar.co.jp) and Toyota ( 098 857 0100, rent.toyota.co.jp) are among the agencies with representatives in both the airport and the city centre. If you want to take a taxi, Okitō Kōtsū ( 098 946 5654) has English-speaking drivers, and you can arrange sightseeing taxi tours with English-speaking driver-guides through Okinawa-ken Kojin Taxi 098 868 1145.

By bike and motorbike You can rent motorbikes and scooters at Helmet Shop SEA (3-15-50 Makishi; 098 864 5116, rental.sakihama.co.jp), west of Kokusai-dōri, from ¥1700 for 3hr; most hostels and some hotels also rent bikes out, though the prices vary.

INFORMATION

Tourist information Naha’s tourist information service has desks in both the domestic (daily 9am–9pm; 098 857 6884) and international (daily 10.30am–7.30pm; 098 859 0742) terminals at the airport. Both have English-speaking staff, plentiful maps and brochures, and can help with hotel reservations. In downtown Naha, there’s an office on Okiei-dōri (daily 8.30am–8pm; 098 862 1442).

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Naha has a good range of accommodation, especially for backpackers – there are more than a dozen hostels charging around ¥1500 for a dorm bed, making this the cheapest backpacker city in Japan. Rooms are hard to come by in the peak holiday seasons – Golden Week, August and New Year – when rates may rise by up to forty percent. Don’t assume, however, that Naha is the only place on Okinawa-Hontō with accommodation, as there are some great alternatives around the island.

Estinate エスティネートホテル 2-3-11 Matsuyama 098 943 4900, estinate.com. Formerly a run-of-the-mill business hotel, this is now delightful boutique-style accommodation. The lobby is a grand place for breakfast in the morning, coffee in the afternoon, or a drink at night (with occasional live music to boot); rooms are a little less showy, but highly comfortable affairs. ¥10,500

Guest House Base Okinawa ゲストハウス BASE OKINAWA 1-17-5 Wakasa 090 1385 9044. Your mother may have warned you about places like this, but the grungy atmosphere of this hostel suits Naha to a tee. Rooms are adequate, and you’ll be so close to Nami-no-ue beach that you won’t even have to don your flip-flops. Dorms ¥1500, singles ¥3000, doubles ¥5000

Hyatt Regency ハイアットリージェンシー 3-6-20 Makishi 098 866 8888, naha.regency.hyatt.com. With an excellent location between teeming Kokusai-dōri and the relaxed Tsuboya pottery district, this is top dog in town, with luxuriant rooms, thick carpets and a pool-with-a-view that’s a great place to be come sundown. ¥18,000

NaHaNa ナハナホテル 2-1-5 Kume 098 866 0787, nahana-hotel.jp. An appealingly retro exterior – replete with a ledge that may have been envisioned as a hover-car parking space – conceals surprisingly swish rooms, each mixing modern design with Okinawan motifs. Guests get special rates at the attached spa. ¥14,000

Roco Inn ロコイン 1-27-11 Matsuyama 098 869 6511, rocoinn-okinawa.jp. Good, cheap option within walking distance of the beach, the Zamami ferries and the city centre. Both the staff service and the buffet breakfasts (¥800) are a cut above what you’d expect at this price range, while the rooms themselves are comfortable (if slightly garish) affairs. ¥7200

Sankyo Business Hotel サンキョウビジネスホテル 2-16-9 Makashi 098 867 5041. If all you need is a private room near the city centre, this is your place, with single rooms (¥2700) cheaper than some dorm beds on the mainland. The location can’t be sniffed at, the (admittedly small) rooms are kept clean, and... that’s your lot. ¥4200

Sora House 空ハウス 2-24-15 Kumoji 098 861 9939. This is the best of the city’s backpacker joints, with a mix of capsule and regular dorms as well as comfy private rooms. The only real downside is that there are too few showers for guest use. Dorms ¥1800, doubles ¥5600

EATING MAP

Naha undoubtedly has Okinawa-Hontō’s widest choice of restaurants, with everything from international cuisine to delectable local dishes. One Naha speciality is tundā-bun: banquets once enjoyed by Ryūkyū kings, and today generally served with an accompanying show.

Dai-ichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba 第一公設牧志市場 Matsuo 2-10-1. An absolute must for seafood fans, this is not one restaurant but several tiny ones, all set together atop the city’s biggest and best fish market. All the Okinawan staple dishes are here, but it would be a crime not to go for the fish – choose from the menu, or for added fun pick your own sea creature from downstairs and pay an extra ¥500 to have it cooked for you. Alternatively, for ¥500 you can sit among the market stalls with a tray of ultra-fresh sashimi – you can’t really lose here. Daily 10am–9pm.

Danbo 暖暮 2-16-10 Makishi 098 863 8331. No list of Naha restaurants is complete without a mention of this ramen spot, which is part of a chain whose noodles were once voted the best in Japan. It’s still living off those former glories, as the staff are surly and most customers are visitors from other Asian countries, but hey – it’s still good ramen. A bowl of rekka-ramen, their house speciality, will set you back ¥750. Daily 11am–2am.

Fēnukama 南窯 Tsuboya 1-9-29 098 861 6404. This is Naha’s best café, and a handy excuse to pop over to the Tsuboya pottery district; it is, in fact, backed by the ruins of a kiln built more than 300 years ago, as seen from a couple of the outdoor tables. Inside or out, the coffee’s great (¥500); take it with a chinbin, a sort of local crepe (¥250). Daily 10am–7pm.

Inaka 田舎 Matsuo 2-9-5. This hard-to-find market den dates from just after Okinawa’s handover to Japan; unfortunately, tax rises meant that prices for their tasty sōki soba recently increased for the first time since 1976 (Japan’s stagnant economy makes such miracles possible), but at ¥390 for a bowl it’s still the cheapest in the whole prefecture. If you’re still in the retro mood, climb your way up any neighbouring staircase to savour some throwback architecture. Daily 10am–7pm.

Nuchigafu 命果報 1-28-3 Tsuboya 098 861 2852. An excellent, traditionally styled hideaway in which to sample the myriad of flavours Okinawa has to throw at you. Set meals are the way here, with lunch options (11am–2pm) costing ¥1200–1800 and dinner banquets ¥5000 and up (from 5pm; reservation only). In between those times, you can try a curious “Okinawan afternoon tea” (from ¥1800). Tues–Sun 11am–10pm.

Yūnangi ゆうなんぎい 3-3-3 Kumoji. Country-style restaurant, offering a warm welcome and serving Okinawan cuisine, including soba bowls (from ¥520), champurū and various pork dishes. Set meals go from around ¥1300, with free rice refills, though annoyingly there are no prices on the foreigner-friendly picture menu. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 5.30–10.30pm.

DRINKING MAP

As you’d expect, with plenty of off-duty GIs and footloose young Japanese tourists and locals, Naha’s entertainment scene is far from dull. Following orders from above, the grunts are only allowed into certain bars.

Adachiya 足立屋 2-20-9 Matsuo 098 869 8040. Tucked into the market, this izakaya is a fun spot where customers are – rarely for the area – mainly locals. Drinks are super cheap, with beer from ¥300 and awamori for ¥200, and there’s plenty of Japanese pub-grub on offer, from yakitori sticks to hamaguri (sake-steamed clams). The only pity is that it closes so early. Daily 6am–10pm.

Borrachos ボラチョス 1-3-31 Makishi 098 943 4488. There’s a one-drink minimum per person at this bar-restaurant, offering all manner of mojitos and margaritas, as well as Mexican beer. Tuck into tasty food such as taco rice (¥1000) or “Mexican” soba (¥850). The atmosphere is as relaxed as Naha gets, and it seems that the owners only employ male staff with copious facial hair. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Dojo Bar 道場バー 2-16-10 Makishi 098 911 3601, dojobarnaha.com. Naha makes surprisingly little play of its status as the birthplace of karate, so this English-owned bar makes a nice change – paraphernalia pertaining to martial fisticuffs is dotted all over the place, and you’ll often find a fair few black-belts among the customers. If you’re interested in studying karate yourself, staff here will do their best to help grease the wheels, possibly over an English ale (from ¥500) or their selection of awamori. Daily 7pm–2am, Sat & Sun till 3am.

Kokusai Street Food Village 国際通り屋台村 3-11-17 Makishi. A relatively recent addition to town is this “village” of tiny bars and restaurants. The food’s almost uniformly crap and overpriced, so it’s best to use the place for snacks and drinking; find a spare seat somewhere nice, order an awamori, and you’re set. Daily 11am–2am.

ENTERTAINMENT

Naha is a good place in which to catch performances of traditional Ryūkyū court dance; some performances are served with tundā-bun banquets.

Sakurazaka Theatre 桜坂劇場 3-6-10 Makishi, Kokusai-dōri 098 860 9555, sakura-zaka.com. This isn’t what you’d expect in a high-density tourist area – a charming old cinema screening a mix of arthouse films, as well as “acceptable” mainstream ones.

Yotsu-take 四つ竹 2-22-1 Kume 098 866 3333, yotsutake.co.jp. The best of Naha’s umpteen dinner-and-dance venues. As well as watching a local court dance (40min), you can also get a tundā-bun – a set meal of beautifully presented royal hors d’oeuvre. Entry is ¥1620, or from ¥6500 including a meal. Shows daily 6.30pm & 8.30pm.

DIRECTORY

Hospitals and medical care Naha City Hospital, 2-31-1 Furujima ( 098 884 5111), is located next to the castle. If you need an English-speaking doctor, your best bet is the Adventist Medical Centre, 4-11-1 Kohagura, on Route 29 northeast of Naha ( 098 946 2833).

Immigration office To renew your visa, apply to the Naha Immigration Office, 1-15-15 Hikawa ( 098 832 4185), southeast of Kokusai-dōri on Route 221.

Police 1-2-9 Izumizaki ( 098 836 0110).

Southern Okinawa-Hontō

During the long-drawn-out Battle of Okinawa, it was the area south of Naha that saw the worst fighting and received the heaviest bombardment. Not only were the Underground Naval Headquarters dug deep into the hills here, but the region’s many limestone caves also provided shelter for hundreds of Japanese troops and local civilians, many of whom committed suicide rather than be taken prisoner. One of these caves has been preserved as a memorial to the young Himeyuri nurses who died there, and the area is dotted with peace parks and prayer halls. It’s not completely devoted to war sights, however. Okinawa World, over on the southeastern coast, combines 890m of extraordinary stalactite-filled caves with a tourist village dedicated to Ryūkyū culture, and there’s also the lovely islet of Komaka-jima, which is a great spot for snorkelling.

Underground Naval Headquarters

旧海軍司令部壕, Kyū Kaigun Shireibu Gō • 236 Tomigusuku • Daily 8.30am–5pm • ¥440 • Bus #33, #46 or #101 from central Naha to Tomigusuku-jō Shi-kōen-mae stop (1–2 hourly; 25min; ¥250), then a 10min walk

For centuries, the castle of Tomigusuku-jō has stood on the low hills looking north over Naha. During the Pacific War, the spot was chosen for the headquarters of the Japanese navy, but, instead of using the old fortifications, they tunnelled 20m down into the soft limestone. The complex, consisting of Rear Admiral Ōta’s command room and various operations rooms, is now preserved as the Underground Naval Headquarters. Inside, there are a few photos of the 1945 battle, but little else to see beyond holes gouged in the plaster walls; the cavities are said to be where Ōta and 175 of his men killed themselves with hand grenades on June 13 as the Americans closed in. Beside the tunnel entrance, there’s a small museum and a monument to the four thousand Japanese troops who died in this area.

OKINAWAN SOUVENIRS

Those in search of local crafts will find beautiful bingata textiles the most appealing. Originally reserved for court ladies, bingata fabrics are hand-dyed with natural pigments from hibiscus flowers and various vegetables, in simple but striking patterns. Also worth searching out are the fine jōfu cloths of Miyako-jima and the Yaeyama Islands, once gifted in tribute to the local monarchs. Ceramics are thought to have been introduced to the region from Spain and Portugal in the fifteenth century, but Ryūkyū potters concentrated on roof tiles and fairly rustic utensils. Nowadays, they churn out thousands of sake flasks and shiisā, the ferocious lion figures that glare down at you from every rooftop – there are plenty for sale around Naha’s Tsuboya district. The exquisite local lacquerware has a long history in the islands, too, having been introduced over five hundred years ago from China, but the glassware you’ll find is much more recent: it’s said production took off in the postwar years when Okinawans set about recycling the drinks bottles of the occupying US forces. Lastly, there’s plenty of cheap food and clothing in the covered arcades off Kokusai-dōri: hunt down some Okinawan patterned underpants, Puma T-shirts with the panther replaced by a smiling shiisā, and all manner of other pleasing tat.

Himeyuri-no-tō

ひめゆりの塔 • 671-1 Ihara • Museum daily 9am–5.30pm • ¥310 • himeyuri.or.jp • Bus #34 or #89 from Naha to Itoman (1–2 hourly; 30min; ¥580), then #82, #107 or #108 (15min; ¥350)

Heading south down the coast from the Underground Naval Headquarters, Highway 331 passes through Itoman town (糸満) and then cuts inland across the peninsula to Himeyuri-no-tō, a deeply moving war memorial dedicated to more than two hundred schoolgirls and their teachers who committed suicide here in a shallow cave.

The nearby museum describes how the high-school students, like many others on Okinawa, were conscripted as trainee nurses by the Japanese army in the spring of 1945. As the fighting became more desperate, the girls were sent to a field hospital, gradually retreating south from cave to cave, and were then abandoned altogether as the Japanese army disintegrated. Terrified that they would be raped and tortured by the Americans, the women and girls killed themselves rather than be captured.

Peace Memorial Park

平和祈念公園, Heiwakinen-kōen • 444 Mabuni, Itoman • Daily 9am–5.30pm (winter till 5pm) • ¥450 • 098 997 2765, sp.heiwa-irei-okinawa.jp • Bus #82 from Itoman (9 daily; 30min; ¥470)

The final battle for Okinawa took place on Mabuni Hill (摩文仁の丘), on the island’s southeast coast. The site is now occupied by a cemetery and park containing monuments (the “Cornerstone of Peace”) to the more than 200,000 troops – both Japanese and American – and civilians who died on the islands during the war. A white tower crowns the Peace Memorial Hall, which contains a 12m-high lacquered Buddha.

Okinawa Prefecture Peace Memorial Museum

沖縄県立平和記念資料館, Okinawa Kenritsu Heiwa Kinen Shiryōkan • 614-1 Mabuni, Itoman • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300 • peace-museum.pref.okinawa.jp • Bus #82 from Itoman (9 daily; 30min; ¥470)

You’ll learn plenty (though not the full story) about the Battle of Okinawa if you visit the Okinawa Prefecture Peace Memorial Museum, very close to the Peace Memorial Hall, which has full English translations throughout. This interesting museum, planned under the anti-establishment regime of Governor Ōta but completed by the more conservative Governor Inamine, doesn’t shirk the uncomfortable fact that Japanese soldiers ruthlessly killed Okinawan civilians. Generally, however, the whole build-up to the war is treated in the usual euphemistic way, and the exhibition ends on an upbeat note with displays on the postwar history of Okinawa to the present day.

Okinawa World

おきなわワールド • 1336 Tamagusuku • Daily 9am–6pm; Eisā dances 10.30am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm & 4pm; snake shows 11am, noon, 2pm, 3.30pm & 4.30pm • Day pass ¥1650; village and cave ¥1240; Habu Park ¥620; craft workshops additional ¥100–200 • 098 949 7421 • Bus #83 or #54 from Naha (8 daily; 1hr; ¥580), or #82 from Itoman (9 daily; 30min; ¥320)

Okinawa World is a quirky “village” showcasing local crafts and culture, including bingata dyeing, awamori brewing and Eisā dance performances. It’s built across an 890m-long cave with an impressive array of rock formations along an underground river, but the most popular attraction is the Habu Park, where you can learn about the Okinawan venomous snake and pose for the cameras with a python wrapped around your shoulders. You can also try your hand at the various local crafts.

THE AMERICAN QUESTION

Twenty percent of Okinawa-Hontō and a small number of outer islands are covered by American military bases, employing 27,000 American military personnel. This in itself has fuelled local anger, but what rankles most is that Okinawa makes up less than one percent of the Japanese landmass, yet contains 75 percent of the country’s American bases. The issue is, however, far from black and white for the islanders, since the bases provide thousands of jobs and contribute vast sums to the local economy – rather important, given that Okinawa remains the poorest of Japan’s prefectures. In addition, many younger Okinawans relish the peculiar hybrid cultural atmosphere that the large number of foreigners brings to the islands.

Recent political manoeuvrings have been largely focused on Futenma, a large US Marine Corps air base just northeast of Naha. Nakaima Hirokazu was elected governor of Okinawa in 2006 on an anti-base ticket, but in 2014 he flip-flopped and approved certain elements of the plans. Although he was ousted from office later in the year, work on the Futenma site started in 2015, but partially thanks to fierce criticism from celebrities such as filmmakers Miyazaki Hayao and Oliver Stone, everything still remained in the balance at the time of writing. Regardless of what happens with Futenma, the American issue is likely to rumble on for some time.

Komaka-jima

コマカ島 • Bus #38 to Chinen from Naha; speedboats run 9am–5pm from the Chinen Kaiyō Leisure Centre (知念海洋レジャーセンター) in Chinen (知念村) to the island (every 30min; ¥2800 return)

If you just want to chill out, head to tiny Komaka-jima, 3km east of the Chinen Peninsula. An uninhabited islet surrounded by golden sands and a coral reef, it’s an ideal snorkelling spot; alternatively, it’s pleasant to simply muck around on a pristine, tourist-free beach. Plenty choose to camp here overnight, though be sure to bring all your own supplies if you plan to stay.

Central Okinawa-Hontō

North of Naha, traffic on Highway 58 crawls up the coast of central Okinawa-Hontō between a strip of McDonald’s, Shakey’s Pizza and used car lots on one side, and neat rows of artillery on the other. This is army country, with huge tracts of land occupied by the American military. Camps and bases extend along the coast as far north as the Maeda peninsula, where beach resorts take over. You can avoid the coastal strip by taking the expressway or Highway 330 up the island’s less crowded centre past Okinawa City – this is the best way to reach the north of the island quickly. A bizarre mix of American and Japanese life, Okinawa City is the region’s main urban centre, but there’s little reason to stop. A short way south, though difficult to get to, Nakamura-ke is one of the few genuinely old buildings still standing on Okinawa-Hontō, while the nearby ruins of Nakagusuku-jō offer commanding views. On the district’s northern fringes lies Ryūkyū-mura, a quieter, more interesting culture village than Okinawa World.

Nakamura-ke

中村家 • 106 Ogusuku • Daily 9.30am–5.30pm • ¥500, including tea • nakamura-ke.net • Bus #27, #80 or #127 from Naha to Okinawa City (Futenma junction), then bus #59 (hourly; 15min; ¥200) to the Nakamura-ke turn-off

A little north of Futenma air base, a road cuts east through the hills to Kitanakagusuku village (北中城) where, in the early fifteenth century, Nakamura Gashi served as a teacher to a local lord, Gosamaru. In the early eighteenth century, one of Gashi’s descendants was appointed village leader and started building his family’s large, beautifully solid residence, Nakamura-ke. Protected by limestone walls, a thick belt of trees and a growling shiisā perched on the red-tile roof, the house is typical of a wealthy landowner.

Nakagusuku-jō

中城城跡 • 503 Kitanakagusuku • Daily 8.30am–5pm (May–Sept till 6pm) • ¥400 • 098 935 5719, nakagusuku-jo.jp

A five-minute walk west of Nakamura-ke, limestone cliffs merge into the crumbling walls of Nakagusuku-jō, designated a World Heritage Site in 2000. These impressive fortifications, consisting of six citadels on a spectacular promontory, were originally built in the early fifteenth century by Lord Gosamaru. However, they weren’t enough to withstand his rival, Lord Amawari, who ransacked the castle in 1458 and then abandoned the site. Nowadays you can walk through the grassy, tree-filled park and scramble among the ruins to admire the views clear across the island.

Ryūkyū-mura

琉球村 • 1130 Yamada • Daily 8.30am–5.30pm • ¥1200 • ryukyumura.co.jp • Bus #120 or #20 from Naha (every 15–20min; 1hr 20min; ¥1050)

Over on the west coast, Ryūkyū-mura preserves several old Okinawa farmhouses brought from all over the islands and reassembled here to showcase the remnants of Ryūkyū culture. Though some will find it too touristy, the village provides a hint of what Okinawa was like before the war. In addition to performances of Eisā dances and traditional music, you can see people weaving, dyeing textiles and milling sugar cane for molasses.

ACCOMMODATION CENTRAL OKINAWA-HONTŌ, SEE MAP

Maeda Misaki Divers House 真栄田岬ダイバーズハウス 357 Yamada, Onna village 098 965 6459. A 15min walk northwest of Ryūkyū-mura, this is a great place to stay, particularly if you’ve come to Okinawa to dive. The building – an old youth hostel – is a bit run-down, but it’s in a quiet location and offers walks along the cliffs and down to the white, sweeping curve of Moon Beach. Accommodation is in bunk beds, and they do good meals. The nearest bus stop is Kuraha, on bus route #120, from where the hostel is a 10min walk northwest. Dorms ¥2000

ACTIVITIES

Diving and cycling Natural Blue ( natural-blue.net) run diving trips, starting from ¥9500 for an introductory dive, including all equipment, and snorkelling excursions to the nearby Blue Cave (¥4000). Two-day PADI courses are ¥60,000, accommodation included (min two people). They also rent out bikes for ¥1500 per day.

Northern Okinawa-Hontō

North of Okinawa-Hontō’s pinched waist, the scenery begins to improve as classy resort hotels line the western beaches. Bleached-white, coral-fringed Moon Beach merges into Tiger Beach, after which there’s the rocky, wild Onna promontory before you rejoin the sands at Manza and up through Imbu Beach. Beyond this strip, northern Okinawa-Hontō’s only major settlement, Nago, sits at the base of the knobbly Motobu peninsula. A generally quiet, workaday place, there’s not a lot to see in Nago, but the small city makes a good base for exploring the region’s mountainous north and visiting the impressive Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium at the far western tip of the peninsula. The district boasts the island’s most attractive scenery, particularly around Hedo Misaki, the northern cape, and on through sleepy Oku village down the rugged northeast coast. It’s possible to travel up the west coast by slow local bus, but after Oku you’re on your own.

Nago and around

名護

Apart from weekends, when off-duty soldiers come up from the bases, NAGO sees few foreigners. If the proposed relocation of the Futenma base goes ahead, all this will change, but for the moment Nago is a slow-moving, fairly pleasant city – more a large town – that’s best known for its huge banyan tree and a spectacular display of spring cherry blossoms. Its other draws consist of a marginally interesting local museum and nearby Nago Castle Hill; nothing remains of the castle, but it does boast lovely views over Nago bay.

Busena Resort Underwater Observatory

ブセナ海中公園, Busena Kaichī Kōen • 1808 Kise • Daily 9am–6pm • ¥1000

Some 10km southeast of Nago, at the tip of the promontory occupied by the Busena Terrace resort, there’s an Underwater Observatory owned and operated by the hotel. It’s a good way to see some of the area’s marine life if you’re not going diving; though not a patch on Ocean Expo Park, it’s markedly less busy and the location is almost as spectacular.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION NAGO

By bus Arriving by bus (including the #111 from Naha), most services stop near Nago’s central crossing before terminating at the bus terminal on the main highway to the west of town. However, some stop on the seafront, notably the Express Bus from Naha Airport’s bus terminal (hourly; 2hr; ¥2000), which ends up outside Nago’s Lego-block City Hall, roughly 500m west of the central crossroads.

Tourist information You’ll find the tourist information office (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm; 098 053 7755) in Nago City Hall (1-1-1 Minato), which has English-language maps and pamphlets on the area.

Services The Ryūkyū Bank, just north of the central junction, can exchange dollar and sterling cash, and there’s a small post office with an ATM a couple of blocks to the west.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Busena Terrace ブセナテラスリゾート 1808 Kise 098 051 1333, terrace.co.jp. Some way south of Nago, and still proudly displaying evidence of hosting the G8 Summit in 2000, this resort has simple but tastefully designed rooms, charming staff and impressive facilities, including six restaurants, an enormous landscaped pool and a pleasant beach. If you want to see what’s going on under the waves, you can visit its Underwater Observatory. ¥44,000

Kise Beach Palace 喜瀬ビーチパレス 115-2 Kise 098 052 5151, kise-beachpalace.jp. There’s some seriously good value on offer at this beachside hotel – curiously, the ocean-view rooms are often cheaper than those looking at the relatively boring mountains, but they’re all comfy and pretty sizeable. The outdoor pool, open during warmer months, rounds things off nicely. ¥7500

Ocean Expo Park

海洋博公園, Kaiyō Haku-kōen • 424 Ishikawa • Daily 8am–7.30pm • General entry free; Oceanic Culture Museum ¥190; Tropical Dream Centre ¥760; electric bus day ticket ¥200, one ride ¥100 • oki-park.jp • Bus #111 from Naha to Nago (2hr), then #65, #66 or #70 (1hr)

Sitting on the northwestern tip of the hilly, mushroom-shaped Motobu peninsula, the Ocean Expo Park is up there with Okinawa’s most famous attractions. The majority of visitors race to the fantastic, world-famous aquarium (see below) and head straight back to Naha, but the sprawling park boasts umpteen other attractions to help you make the most of the long trip here (and it is a long trip). These include dolphin shows, an ocean nursery, a manatee tank (if you haven’t come across these creatures before, be prepared for some strange sights) and a good beach at the north end. Other minor highlights include an Oceanic Culture Museum (closed for renovations at the time of writing), which contains a vast collection of boats and artefacts from Southeast Asia and the South Pacific; and the Tropical Dream Centre, containing two thousand types of orchids and flowers. All of the above are connected by electric bus.

Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium

沖縄美ら海水族館, Okinawa Churaumi Suizokukan • Daily: Oct–Feb 8.30am–6.30pm; March–Sept 8.30am–8pm • ¥1850, or ¥1290 after 4pm • churaumi.okinawa/en

The highlight of the park is the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, a spectacular facility showcasing the marine life of the Kuroshio Current. The main tank holds 7500 tonnes of water and is home to several whale sharks, the largest fish in the world; there are plenty of manta ray here too, and the aquarium is justly proud of the fact that four have been born here. When the place opened in 2002, the glass panel at the front was the largest in the world at a whopping 22.5m in length. Though this has since been surpassed by one in Dubai, the cinema-scope view will still hold you entranced. Most explanations are in English, and there’s an informative section on sharks that dispels many myths about these extraordinary creatures.

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KERAMA ISLANDS

ACCOMMODATION OCEAN EXPO PARK, SEE MAP

Centurion Resort Churaumi センチュリオンリゾート沖縄美ら海 938 Ishikawa 098 048 3631, www.centurion-hotel.com. This swanky hotel is ideally located for the aquarium, which is right next door. The decor in the rooms is a bit cheesy, but all of them have a sea view and there’s a fantastic on-site pool to splash around in. ¥16,000

Hiji Ōtaki

比地大滝 • Daily sunrise–3.30pm • Trail ¥200

North of Nago, Highway 58 hugs the mountainside as the cliffs rise higher, and the only settlements are a few weather-beaten villages in sheltered coves. At the village of Kunigami (国頭), head inland along the road that follows the river to reach the start of the walk to Hiji Ōtaki, a picturesque 26m-high waterfall. About halfway along the 1.5km-long trail, you’ll cross a 17m suspension bridge with lovely views across the river; further up and at the falls themselves there are excellent swimming spots.

ACCOMMODATION HIJI ŌTAKI, SEE MAP

Hiji Ōtaki Campsite 比地大滝キャンプ 781-1 Kunigami 098 041 3636. This is a rather beautiful campsite at the beginning of the Hiji Ōtaki walking trail. It has good washing and cooking facilities, plus a small restaurant-shop; it’s possible to rent tents if you haven’t brought your own. ¥2000 per site

Hedo-misaki

辺戸岬 • Bus #67 from Nago to Hentona (辺土名; 1–2 hourly; 1hr; ¥1050), then the special “Oku” bus to Hedo-misaki-iriguchi (4 daily; 30min; ¥550) and a 20min walk

From Kunigami, it’s another 20km to Okinawa-Hontō’s northern cape. The unsightly restaurant block and cigarette butts aside, this is a good spot to stretch your legs and wander over the headland’s dimpled limestone rocks while the waves pound the cliffs below. On clear days, you can see northerly Yoron-tō, the first island in Kagoshima prefecture, and lumpy Iheya-jima to the west, over a churning sea where the currents sweeping around Okinawa collide.

Tanagāgumui and Kesaji mangrove forest

タナガーグムイ • 慶佐次マングローブ

Route 70 snakes its way along the east coast, through forests and pineapple groves with the occasional sea view, and makes for a pleasant drive. There are few sights here, but one place to aim for is Tanagāgumui, a gorgeous swimming hole and small waterfall in a glade reached by a perilous scramble down a 200m clay slope. There are ropes strung down the drop to help, but you still need to be sure-footed.

Further south, just beyond Taira Bay, is the Kesaji mangrove forest, where a boardwalk runs alongside the river. This is a good spot to arrange a kayak trip – ask at the tourist offices in Naha.

Kerama Islands

慶良間諸島, Kerama Shotō

The KERAMA ISLANDS are the closest group to Naha, lying some 30km offshore. A knot of 22 islands – though just four are inhabited – and numerous patches of sand and coral, the Keramas offer some of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in Okinawa and superb diving among the offshore reefs. In 2014, much of the area was designated a national park. The main island, Zamami-jima, is a sleepy place home to just hundreds, yet has recently become popular with international tourists thanks to the recent boom in wintertime whale-watching, as well as the demise of ferries heading from Naha to Miyako and the Yaeyamas – many are now choosing the Keramas over costly flights south. You’ll be able to fly or take a ferry from Naha to Kume-jima, an equally sleepy island on which small-scale tourism has taken off in recent years.

WHALE-WATCHING

From late January through to April, Zamami is Okinawa’s main centre for whale-watching. The Whale-Watching Association ( 098 896 4141) arranges boat trips from Zamami port every day at 9am and in the afternoon, depending on the weather (2hr 30min; ¥5000). Reservations are essential, and you should bring rain gear as you’ll be out on the open sea. With a good pair of binoculars, you can even spot humpbacks spouting and cavorting off Zamami’s northern coast. There’s a special whale observatory about 3.5km northwest of Zamami village, which is one of several lookout points scattered around the cliffs and on the island’s highest peak, Takatsuki-yama.

Zamami-jima

座間味島

A whale statue greets ferries pulling in to Zamami-jima’s harbour, behind which lies the tiny village of ZAMAMI (座間味村), the only settlement of any size on the island, with seven hundred inhabitants out of a total population of one thousand. They speak their own dialect and maintain a fierce rivalry with the people of much larger Tokashiki-jima, a couple of kilometres away to the east. A fine place to get away from it all, Zamami-jima has spectacular beaches, both on the island itself or a short boat ride away. You can dive year-round, but the best time to visit is in autumn, when most of the beach bums have gone but the whale-watchers are yet to appear; the water stays warm enough for swimming and snorkelling well into December.

The beaches

Roughly 1.4km southeast of the village, over a small hill, Furuzamami beach (古座間味浜) boasts excellent coral and shoals of multicoloured fish. You can rent snorkels (¥500 each for goggles and fins) at the small shop, and there’s also a restaurant and showers.

A similar distance west of Zamami village is Ama beach (阿真浜). The drop-off is quite some way out, making this beach more family-friendly than Furuzamami; when the tide’s in, lucky snorkellers may be able to see sea turtles hunting for food (equipment is available from a couple of easy-to-spot places in Ama town).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ZAMAMI-JIMA

By ferry The islands are served by ferry from Naha’s Tomari Port. The high-speed Queen Zamami departs twice daily for Zamami-jima (50min–1hr 15min; ¥3140 one-way, ¥5970 return; 098 868 4567); it’s best to reserve tickets at least a day ahead of time. Alternatively, there’s the slower Ferry Zamami (2hr 15min; ¥2120 one-way, ¥4030 return; 098 868 4567), which leaves Naha at 10am and returns at 2pm; tickets almost never sell out. In bad weather, which is quite often, everyone gets bundled onto the slow services; cancellations, when they do take place, are announced daily at 8am (boomed over the village by incredibly loud speakers), or you can simply ask at your accommodation.

GETTING AROUND

By ferry In summer (June to mid-Sept) there are a few local services from Zamami to the uninhabited islets of Gahi-jima and Agenashiku-jima, just to the south; at these times they cost ¥1500 return, but out of season you’ll have to charter your own boat. There are also year-round passenger services from Zamami to Aka-jima (4 daily; ¥300 each way).

By car Zamami Rent-a-Car (daily 9am–6pm; 098 987 3250) operate from the sandy lanes on the village’s eastern edge, but the island’s so small that it’s hard to justify the expense.

DOGS AND DOLPHINS

Zamami-jima has sourced much of its fame from the animal kingdom. The millions of fish enjoyed by divers (and diners at local restaurants) are an obvious draw, but dogs and whales have also made their mark. Historically, whaling was an important part of the local economy, but in the 1960s the whales disappeared and the industry died. Then, towards the end of the last century, the humpbacks started coming back to their winter breeding grounds – which the locals have been quick to exploit, though this time for tourism rather than hunting. In addition, Japanese associate the Keramas with the cutesy 1988 film I Want to See Marilyn. Based on a true story, it tells of a romance between two dogs on neighbouring islands: Shiro on Aka-jima, and Marilyn some 3km away on Zamami-jima. They met when Shiro travelled to Zamami in his owner’s boat, but the passion was such that he started swimming over every day to rendezvous with Marilyn on Zamami’s Ama beach – or so the story goes. You’ll pass a statue of Marilyn on your way from Zamami town to Ama beach.

By bike There are plenty of places from which to rent a bike, but the cheapest spot (¥300 for 2hr; ¥1500/day) is on the road up to Joy Joy. The main rental depot is in the very centre of Zamami, just along from the supermarket; they rent bikes (¥500/hr, ¥2000/day) and mopeds (¥1500/hr, ¥4500/day).

On foot If all you want to do is see the beaches (there’s little else on offer), they’re both accessible in under half an hour from Zamami town – in fact, you can quite easily traverse the whole island by foot, though there are some hilly bits.

By bus A little service trundles along to both beaches (¥300), leaving infrequently from the port throughout the day, often with nobody on board.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information As you come off the ferry, you’ll hit the tourist information office (daily 9am–5pm; 098 987 2277). Be sure to pick up an English map of the island; it features all places to sleep and eat in town. There’s also good information online ( zamamienglishguide.com).

Diving There are dozens of operations around Zamami, but Joy Joy ( 098 987 2445, keramajoyjoy.com) is recommended for its knowledgeable service. Prices tend to be the same across the village; count on ¥3000 for a simple snorkelling trip, plus ¥1000 for equipment rental, or ¥5500 for a scuba dive including equipment and transfers.

Kayaking The Kerama Kayak Centre ( 098 868 4677), just around the corner from Zamamia Guesthouse, offers kayaking excursions around the Zamami area.

Boat trips Operators around Zamami offer banana boat (¥1500) or glass-bottomed-boat rides (¥2000).

ACCOMMODATION

Zamami has a reasonable selection of family-run minshuku with a few simple Japanese- and Western-style rooms. It’s wise to book ahead at any time of year, and note that you may be able to score a significantly cheaper deal if you book without full board.

Ama Beach Campsite 阿真ビーチキャンプ 098 987 3259. A 20min walk west along the coast, this campsite offers several camping pitches. You can rent tents (¥500) and other equipment such as sleeping bags and BBQ sets, and there’s a ¥500-per-person fee for use of the facilities. Camping ¥2000

Okinawa Resort 沖縄リゾート 415 Zamami 098 987 2736. This is possibly the friendliest place in the village, presided over by a delightful local couple who’ll be more than willing to assist with diving trips. Rooms are good value, and they also have comfy chalet-style accommodation. ¥8500

Shirahama Islands Resort シラハマアイランズリゾート 32 Zamami 098 987 3111, zamami-shirahama.com. On the road out to Furuzamami, this is Zamami’s biggest, smartest hotel. You’ll chop a fair bit from the rates stipulated here if you go without meals, which are decent but not quite worth the extra fee. ¥20,000

Zamamia Guesthouse 座間味アゲストハウス 126 Zamami 098 987 3626, zamamia-guesthouse.com. This new, foreign-owned option is a boon for backpackers, with decent dorms (including a female-only one) and good-value private rooms too. The lobby doubles as a burger restaurant, and makes a good place to hang out over a beer. Dorms ¥3000, twins ¥7000

EATING AND DRINKING

Small though it may be, Zamami does have a couple of half-decent places to eat, as well as a well-stocked supermarket (daily 7am–10pm). An attached shack sells yakitori in the evenings, and it’s the done thing to grab a few sticks and a beer, then enjoy them on the harbour wall. Note that opening times can vary; those listed here should not be taken as gospel.

Amulet Zamami アミュレット座間味 153 Zamami 098 987 2861, amulet.tokyo. This operation is surprisingly attractive for somewhere so far-flung – no real surprise, since it’s the sister outlet of an izakaya in Tokyo’s Shibuya district. It’s a great place to head for a drink in the evening (it’s usually the last place to shut), preferably over some fried kushiyaki sticks. Daily 6pm–1am.

Cha Villa チャーヴィラ 90 Zamami 098 987 3737. This guesthouse is the only place in town serving coffee throughout the day; enjoy it out in the garden with a nice slab of cheesecake (¥850 all in). Daily 9am–6pm.

La Toquée ラトゥーク 225 Zamami 098 987 3558. A smart place to eat local staples like taco rice and Okinawa soba. If you’re feeling more adventurous, you can also dig into plates of seared tuna with bonito flakes (¥720); in addition, they have a good range of beer and spirits. Mon & Wed–Sun 6pm–midnight.

Marumiya まるみや 432-2 Zamami 098 987 3166. At the back end of town, this is the most popular place with locals themselves, and it can get packed at mealtimes. They do ¥800 lunch specials, typically focusing on Japanese staples or Okinawan specialities. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–2pm & 6–11pm.

Zamamia Guesthouse 座間味アゲストハウス 126 Zamami 098 987 3626, zamamia-guesthouse.com. For something a little different, head to this hostel for a hearty burger (from ¥750); some of the selection on offer have Okinawan-style fillings. Drinks available too. Daily 11.30am–2.30pm & 6–9pm.

Kume-jima

久米島

Although it lacks the diver-friendly appeal of Zamami, Kume-jima has been luring in more and more travellers of late. It’s a pastoral, defiantly sleepy place, whose visitors usually hunker down around Eef beach (イーフビーチ), a pretty stretch of sand on the east of the island. However, the most famous beach by far isn’t on the island at all – quite visible from the plane as you’re arriving is Hate-no-hama, a highly photogenic sand bar.

Hate-no-hama

はての浜 • 2–3 boat tours daily (times dependent upon tides) • From ¥3500

This is what most visitors to Kume-jima are actually after – Hate-no-hama, a 7km-long sand bar, sitting in splendid isolation to the east of the island. Boat tours run from the wonderfully named Tomari Fisharina, north of Eef beach; several hotels run their own tours too, but you’ll be paying almost double for the same thing. Once there, the choices are simple – take a few selfies, lie down and catch some rays, or go for a snorkel – you’ll most likely end up doing all three.

Bade Haus

バーデハウス • Free shuttle buses from Eef beach (5 daily), though you can easily walk it • Daily 10am–9pm • Pool ¥2000, spa and sauna ¥1000, all three ¥2500 • Swimwear required

You’ll find a couple of points of interest on the south coast of O-jima, a small island north of Eef beach (and connected to Kume-jima by bridge). Most notable are the Bade Haus baths, set in an almost European-style facility; some of the waters used here have been pumped from 612m beneath the ocean. Separating said ocean from the baths is an interesting rock formation; if you’re there at the right time, you may get to slide your tootsies into fish-filled pools of sea water.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND KUME-JIMA

By plane Unlike Zamami, Kume-jima is well served by flights from Naha (7 daily; 35min). Buses are scheduled to meet the planes (¥390 to Eef beach), but since they double up as local island services, they won’t wait for delayed landings – try not to get the last flight of the day from Naha, unless you want to risk a whopping taxi fee.

By ferry There are two daily services (3hr 30min; ¥3390) linking Naha’s Tomari Port with Kanegusuku, on the south side of Kume-jima, and served by the same buses.

By bike and moped There are the usual car rental booths at the airport, but independent travellers usually head to the various operators around Eef Beach renting out bikes (¥500/hr; ¥2000/day) and mopeds (¥1500/hr; ¥4500/day).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Although there’s simple accommodation across the island, the vast majority of visitors stay around Eef beach, which also has a few places to eat and drink – and, importantly, a 24hr convenience store.

Eef Beach Hotel イーフビーチホテル 548 Janado 098 985 7111, courthotels.co.jp. De facto choice for most of the island’s visitors, this large hotel is looking a little dated, but it’s right by the beach, and has a couple of pools to swim in, as well as cute public baths out in the annexe. They might even offer you a discount for your stay. ¥18,500

Seaside House Dugong シーサイドハウスジュゴン 548-16 Janado 098 985 7631. The most affordable place in the Eef beach area is this simple, ten-room minshuku – nothing to write home about, but the owners are friendly sorts, and the beach is super close. ¥7500

Shima Monkey 島の猿 160-56 Higa 098 985 8585. A surprisingly sleek izakaya, considering the far-flung location. The menu includes juicy steak (¥1200), taco rice, bar snacks, and offers plenty to drink to wash it all down with. Tues–Sun 6–11pm.

Miyako Islands

宮古列島, Miyako Rettō

One has to feel sorry for the MIYAKO ISLANDS. Centred around Miyako-jima, the main island of the chain, this small cluster boasts some of the best beaches, but they’re graced by few international visitors. Long overshadowed by Zamami-jima and the Yaeyama group, their appeal took another knock in 2008 with the closure of ferry services to Naha and Ishigaki, making Miyako a pricey add-on to an Okinawan tour.

Miyako-jima

宮古島

The flat, triangular-shaped island of Miyako-jima is roughly 35km from tip to tip – its most immediately notable aspect is field after field of sugar cane. Though essentially devoid of sights, it remains a favourite with mainland Japanese, some of whom stay for weeks or months on end, chalking off beach after beach and dive after dive. Hirara, the main town, lies on the island’s northwest coast, from where roads fan out through the fields.

Hirara

平良

Although officially part of Miyakojima City, everyone still refers to the island’s main town as Hirara. Small though it may be, this is actually one of the largest Okinawan conurbations outside the mainland; a modest selection of places to eat and drink means that it makes an excellent base while you’re on the island. Hirara has its own beach, Painagama (パイナガマ浜), immediately south of the harbour, but there are much better ones around the island.

Miyako Traditional Arts and Crafts Centre

宮古伝統工芸品研究センター, Miyako Dentō Kōgeihin Kenkyū Sentā • 3 Nishizato • Mon–Sat 9am–6pm • Free

It won’t take long to tick off Hirara’s paltry collection of sights before scooting off to the beaches, and few bother. Most appealing is the newly refurbished Miyako Traditional Arts and Crafts Centre, where you can watch women weaving the delicate Miyako-jōfu fabric.

Sunayama beach

砂山浜, Sunayama-hama • 4km north of Hirara, accessed via a steep, winding path through trees and over a large sand dune

Within walking distance of Hirara (just about) and tucked into the northwestern stretch of the island is Sunayama beach. Some consider it the best beach of the lot – when you first catch sight of the place, it looks nothing short of heavenly. It’s a good spot to come for sunset, which can often be viewed through a natural stone arch.

Ikema-jima

池間島 • Boat tours 50min • ¥2000

At the far north of Miyako-jima, a bridge connects the island with tiny Ikema-jima. Ikema has a lazy fishing port and more deserted beaches and good coral reefs, including the extensive Yaebishi reef, which is exposed annually during the low spring tides. You can take a glass-bottomed boat tour out there, too. The best reason for detouring here, though, is the Raza Cosmica Tourist Home.

Boragawa beach

保良川浜

Reached by a steep, winding road from Route 390, Boragawa beach is a good spot for snorkelling and kayaking, and equipment for both is available from the attractive beachside complex that includes a refreshment hut and a fresh-water swimming pool.

Higashi Henna-zaki

東平安名崎 • Lighthouse daily 9am–4.30pm • ¥150

At the very eastern point of the island lies beautiful Higashi Henna-zaki, a 2km-long peninsula renowned for its wild flowers and panoramic views. Head out to the lighthouse at the very tip, where you can climb to the top and check out the views.

Just north of the cape are the quiet beaches at Yoshino (吉野) and Aragusuku (新城), both excellent snorkelling spots with corals and a plethora of tropical fish.

Mae beach

前浜, Mae-hama

On the southwestern corner of the island, and just 10km south of Hirara, Mae beach is a long and remarkably pristine strip of soft white sand – it’s often hailed as Japan’s best beach, though some feel that it’s not even the best on Miyako. Naturally, a prime chunk of it has been requisitioned by the swanky Miyako-jima Tōkyū Resort.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MIYAKO-JIMA

By plane Most flights to Miyako-jima come from Naha, though there are also a few direct services from the mainland. From Miyako Airport, there are few bus connections into the main town of Hirara (3–4 daily; ¥280), meaning that you’ll most likely have to get a taxi (¥1500), as it’s too far to walk – it’s actually fairly close to town, but the terminal is on the “wrong” side of the runway. However, if you arrange motorbike or scooter rental at the airport, the agents will ferry you to your hotel in Hirara for free first, before you pick up your chosen mode of transport. Also note that Jetstar have now started flying from Tokyo and Osaka to Shimoji-shima, an island now connected to Miyako-jima by bridge; other airlines may follow suit in due course.

Destinations Ishigaki (2 daily; 30min); Naha (1–2 hourly; 45min); Osaka (2 daily; 1hr 55min); Tokyo (2 daily; 2hr 35min).

GETTING AROUND

By bus You’d be unwise to rely upon Miyako’s sparse bus network for getting around. Other than the airport services, the only buses worth considering are those heading across the bridge to Irabu-jima, which depart from the old ferry terminal.

By rented vehicle The airport has car-rental stands aplenty, and given the paucity of public transport this is by far the best way of getting to the beaches. Hotels and hostels will be able to give you details about the various scooter rental places dotted around Hirara.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Information There’s a helpful information desk in the airport (daily 9am–5.30pm; 098 072 0899).

Money ATMs accepting foreign cards can be found at Hirara’s various convenience stores; if that doesn’t work, head to the post office (Mon–Sat 8.45am–7pm, Sun 9am–5pm).

Diving Most hotels will be able to hook you up with a dive operator, though by far the best for English-speakers is Penguin Divers ( 090 8231 7161, diving-penguin.com) in central Hirara.

ACCOMMODATION MAP AND THIS MAP

HIRARA

Locus ホテルローカス 338-40 Shimozato 098 079 0240, okinawa-uds.co.jp. A short walk from the town centre, and right by the seafront, this new, boutique-y option is the best place to stay in Hirara. Rooms aren’t huge, but they’re very easy on the eye, and all face out over the sea; a dip in the tiny pool will come as quite a treat, as will breakfast or a meal in the trendy lobby. ¥18,000

Fu-ya 風家 109-7 Shimozato 098 075 4343. Run by a delightful couple who don’t seem too concerned about turning a profit – they’ll pick up from the airport for ¥500, and let you in on their family dinner for the same price. Rooms are simple but fine; the dorms are usually only bookable as a unit, though do ask about taking single beds. Also note that there’s an 11pm curfew. Dorms ¥1700, doubles ¥5000

Rising Sun ホテルライジングサン 1063 Hirara-azakugai 098 079 0500, hotel-risingsun.com. A little south of central Hirara, this mid-ranger has attained popularity with its switched-on staff, large rooms and relaxed atmosphere. ¥11,000

AROUND THE ISLAND

Pension Ntsunaka ペンション道半 363-1 Gusukube 098 077 2577, ntsunaka.com. So what if this place is in the middle of nowhere? For many, that’s precisely the reason to visit Miyako. An air of calm pervades this traditionally styled home, whose owner is an extremely affable chap. Shared facilities only. ¥7800

Raza Cosmica Tourist Home ラサコスミカツーリストホーム 309-1 Hiraramaezato 098 075 2020, www.raza-cosmica.com. There’s a vaguely hippy feel to this delightful South Asian-themed adobe pension, a small, five-room affair perched above a secluded beach on Ikema-jima. Rates include an organic vegetarian breakfast, and snorkelling equipment and bikes are available. ¥14,000

Tōkyū Resort 東急リゾート 914 Shimoji 098 076 2109, miyakojima.tokyuhotels.com. Top-class resort sitting on pretty Maehama beach, accessible by a free shuttle bus from the airport. Watersports enthusiasts won’t be disappointed by the range of activities on offer. ¥35,000

EATING MAP

Chūzan 中山 1-10 Nishizato 098 073 1959. Authentic izakaya whose menu is a sort of roll-call of Okinawan staples (like the various types of champuru, all ¥580) added to the regular snack-bar offerings, including fried sticks, sushi and a nice selection of booze. The clientele is often a potent mix of locals, fishermen and domestic tourists. Daily 4pm–midnight.

K’s Pit 517 Shimozato 090 1821 1098. Though a little marooned on the outskirts of Hirara (and, admittedly, nowhere near the beach), this fun little burger joint (¥500–800 each; fries extra) has nailed the diner vibe, with a friendly owner, non-stop surf rock on the sound system, and beer and cheap cocktails. Wed–Mon 11.30am–9pm.

DRINKING MAP

Deiriguchi でいりぐち 224 Nishizato 098 072 8017. This is a large, friendly bar that wouldn’t look out of place in Tokyo. Arranged in booths and around the bar under a lattice of wood, customers enjoy myriad brands of awamori, as well as good local izakaya grub. Daily 5.30pm–midnight (except Tues).

Gōya 郷家 570-2 Nishizato 098 074 2358. Friendly izakaya and minyō house further east along Nishizato-dōri. Be warned – you may well end up dancing your way around the venue with the rest of the clientele, after the sanshin comes out at around 7.30pm. Daily 5.30pm–midnight (except Thurs).

Irabu-jima

伊良部島

Just west of Miyako-jima, and connected to it by bridge since 2015, little Irabu-jima is worth at least a day trip, particularly if you’re getting around by bicycle – the roads are quiet, and if you can pump your legs hard enough, you’ll see how charmingly bucolic the island’s raised central section is. Many visitors are lured here by the tantalizing images of Sarahama, the main village, whose ramshackle houses cascade downhill towards the sea.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE IRABU-JIMA

By bus There are buses from the port in Hirara (8 daily; ¥280), though these follow a convoluted route once on Irabu-jima itself; it’s best to ask at your accommodation if you’re aiming for somewhere specific.

By bike and car Irabu-jima is far easier to explore if you’ve rented your own car or bike in Miyako; you can get there in half an hour from Hirara, even by bicycle.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Soraniwa ソラニワ 721-1 Irabu 098 074 5200, soraniwa.org. For both sleeping and eating, this is best place on the island, with comfy rooms set above an excellent little restaurant serving an odd – but good – mix of Okinawan and Thai specialities: try the taco rice, or tuna, basil and egg on rice (both around ¥1000), or just pop in for a coffee or lemon-water on your way around Irabu-jima. Restaurant Thurs–Tues 11.30am–5pm. ¥18,000

Yaeyama Islands

八重山諸島, Yaeyama Shotō

Star-sand beaches to stroll along, waterfalls tumbling down emerald mountains, and not a soldier in sight … it’s no wonder even Okinawans go misty-eyed when talking about the YAEYAMA ISLANDS. Japan fizzles out at this far-flung spray of semi-tropical islets, 430km south of Okinawa-Hontō and almost 3000km from Hokkaidō, and those lucky enough to visit are in for quite a finale.

You’ll have to arrive by plane; most flights arrive at Ishigaki-jima, the most populous Yaeyama island by far. Travellers tend to base themselves here, but while Ishigaki has its charms, you’d be mad to come this far and not go that little bit further – a fifteen-minute ferry ride will take you to tiny Taketomi-jima, which is essentially a freeze-frame of traditional Ryūkyū life, while a little further away is Iriomote-jima, almost entirely cloaked with jungle and about as wild as Japan gets. Even more remote are Hateruma-jima, to the south, and Yonaguni-jima, stuck out on its own between Ishigaki and Taiwan.

Ishigaki-jima

石垣島

Yaeyama life revolves around Ishigaki-jima, the islands’ main transport hub and population centre. Most travellers base themselves here, making use of the excellent accommodation and dining options to be found in Ishigaki, the only Yaeyama settlement large enough to warrant description as a town. The rest of the island is a predominantly rural and mountainous landscape, fringed with rocky peninsulas, stunning beaches and easily accessible reefs, while its interior is scored with the gorgeous walls of hand-stacked stone which gave Ishigaki its name. Though the main town is nice enough, it may make you wonder why you came so far to enjoy yet more urban Japan; consider basing yourself up north in beautiful Kabira Bay instead.

Ishigaki

石垣

ISHIGAKI is quite a nice little town; there are plenty of cool restaurants in the tight lattice of streets north of the bus and ferry terminals, as well as most of the mod cons of mainland Japan. However, apart from hosting the Yaeyamas’ best range of tourist facilities, there’s not too much to actually see – after your umpteenth walk through the covered arcades, or along the scruffy portside, you might start to feel a tiny bit bored.

Considering the island’s irregular bus connections, it’s perhaps best used as a first or last base if you’ve a late flight in or early one out.

Yaeyama Museum

八重山博物館, Yaeyama Hakubutsukan • 4-1 Tonoshiro • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥200

The small Yaeyama Museum lies five minutes’ walk inland from Ishigaki harbour, and contains a moderately interesting collection of local artefacts, including a pile of traditional canoes, shaggy shiisā masks used in local festivals and a rather gruesome scroll depicting the tortures of hell.

Miyara Dunchi

宮良殿内 • 178 Okawa • Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm • ¥200

Just north of Ishigaki town centre is Miyara Dunchi, which was built in 1819 and modelled on a traditional samurai residence; it’s surrounded by a coral rock garden, designated a National Scenic Beauty. As the family still lives there, you can’t enter the house itself but only look into the rooms that open onto the traditional garden.

Tōrin-ji

桃林寺 • 285 Ishigaki • Daily 9am–5pm • Free

On Ishigaki’s northwestern outskirts is Tōrin-ji, an attractive Zen temple founded in 1614. Meditation is still practised here, though you’ll be lucky to see it. Interestingly, the temple’s two Deva king statues (called niōzo) are now worshipped as the island’s protectors.

Fusaki Kannon-dō

冨崎観音堂 • Fusaki • 24hr • Free

Around 2km northwest along the coast from Ishigaki town centre is the temple of Fusaki Kannon-dō, which was built in 1701. It boasts good views of Taketomi and Iriomote from its hillside perch, though the paths around the temple are arrestingly beautiful too – shrouded by trees, some are lined with pretty stone lanterns.

Kabira Bay and around

川平湾, Kabira-wan • Boat rides Daily 9am–5pm • ¥1000

Locals and tourist literature will urge you to head straight to KABIRA BAY, home of cultured black pearls and gorgeous emerald waters. Though it feels a bit commercial, it’s still worth battling through the omiyage stands for the superb views of the pearl farms and surrounding islands; with the place near-silent after the tourist hordes are tucked up back in Ishigaki town, it’s almost up there with the best places to stay on the island. Swimming is prohibited due to the pearl farms, but (somewhat hypocritically) you can head out on a glass-bottom boat. North of the bay is Sukuji beach (底地浜), one of the nicest on Ishigaki.

Ugan-zaki Lighthouse

御神崎灯台, Uganzaki Tōdai

On the very northwestern tip of the island is the picturesque Ugan-zaki Lighthouse, which commands an impressive view back across the island. Pack a picnic and enjoy it in peace here or at one of the secluded beaches nearby, which are scattered with giant shells; the sunsets are also often spectacular.

Yonehara beach and around

米原浜, Yonehara-hama

Ishigaki’s most rewarding beach experience by far lies some 5km east of Kabira at YONEHARA (米原). Here you can wade out across a broad expanse of dead coral (make sure to wear foot protection) to the very edge of the reef, which drops off to the sea floor and is full of tropical fish. Be wary of jellyfish here, which can pack a potentially fatal sting. Snorkelling gear can be rented from shops on the main road, and there’s a good campsite, too.

Yoneko Yaki Kōbō

米子焼工房 • Daily 9am–6pm • Free

If padding around the Yonehara beach area, you’ll surely come across the giant, colourfully painted shiisā statues outside Yoneko Yaki Kōbō, a cottage industry factory and shop churning out the traditional Okinawan guardians.

Omoto-dake

於茂登岳

Behind Yonehara, Ishigaki’s mountainous interior holds several options for trekking, including the hike up Omoto-dake; not far north of Yonehara is the turn-off to a grove of Yaeyama palms from where a trail runs up the slopes of the mountain to an observation platform.

Tamatori-zaki Observation Platform

玉取崎展望台, Tamatori-zaki Tembōdai • Infrequent buses #5 and #6 head up the east coast from Ishigaki bus terminal; they stop at the foot of the hill at the Tamatori stop, before heading on to Hirakubo-zaki

On the eastern side of the island, the views from the Tamatori-zaki Observation Platform are splendid, and the landscaped grounds burst with crimson hibiscus blooms; naturally, it’s a favourite stop for tour buses. Further north is Hirakubo-zaki (平久保岬), a cape which marks the end of the line on Ishigaki-jima, punctuated by a dazzling white lighthouse overlooking the tiny island, Daichi Hanare-jima; it’s only really worth the trek if you’ve got your own wheels.

Shiraho-no-umi

白保の海

One of Ishigaki’s main attractions lies off the southeast shore – Shiraho-no-umi, a patch of reef containing some rare corals. The village of Shiraho (白保) has several minshuku where you can stay and arrange snorkelling boat trips at high tide.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ISHIGAKI-JIMA

By plane Ishigaki’s sparkling little airport handles daily flights from Tokyo and a handful of other mainland cities. These include budget services (Peach fly from Osaka and Tokyo, and Solaseed from Naha) and international flights to Hong Kong and Taiwan; those to Taipei can work out very handy if you’re continuing on from Japan. Buses from the airport to Ishigaki run every 20min or so (40min; ¥540); it’s usually worth buying one of the island passes.

Destinations Fukuoka (1 daily; 2hr); Kōbe (daily; 2hr 15min); Osaka (3 daily; 2hr 15min); Miyako (2 daily; 30min); Nagoya (1 daily; 2hr 30min); Naha (1–2 hourly; 1hr); Tokyo (5 daily; 3hr); Yonaguni (3 daily; 30min).

By ferry The ferry terminal serving Taketomi-jima and Iriomote-jima is in the thick of things, across the road from the bus terminal; a smaller wharf serving Yonaguni-jima is a 10min walk around the dock. Rarely for Japan, services sometimes leave ahead of schedule – it’s best to be on board 15min ahead of your scheduled departure.

Destinations Ōhara, Iriomote-jima (every 30min; 45min); Taketomi-jima (2–3 hourly; 15min); Uehara, Iriomote-jima (hourly; 50min); Yonaguni-jima (2 weekly; 4hr 30min).

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Tourist information There’s a small information booth at the airport, though more useful are the staff at Hirata Tourism (daily 7.30am–6pm; 098 082 6711, hirata-group.co.jp), located in the main ferry terminal.

Money The Family Mart near the ferry terminal has an ATM; if that fails, try the island’s main post office (12 Okawa; daily 9am–7pm).

Diving and snorkelling There are dozens of dive operators itching to get visitors underwater; recommended are Sea Friends ( 098 082 0863, sea-friends.net) in Ishigaki and Umicoza ( 098 088 2434, umicoza.com) in Kabira. Equipment can be rented out from the shops on the main road by Yonehara beach for ¥1000, and you can book various diving tours from the tourist office (¥7500–9000); some head out to see manta rays or sea turtles.

GETTING AROUND

By bus If you’re planning on getting around the island by bus, it’s worth investing in one of the two Free Passes, available from the driver: a one-day pass costs ¥1000, and a five-day one is ¥2000; both cover all of the island’s buses, but services are not all that regular. You could also try one of the guided bus tours (¥3200–4600; Japanese only), which visit all the island’s main sights, departing from the bus terminal daily at 9am.

By car Car rental is easy to organize at the airport, or prior to arrival. Keep in mind that most of the island’s petrol stations are closed on Sundays, except for those in Ishigaki; make sure you fill up before setting off around the island.

ACCOMMODATION MAP AND THIS MAP

ISHIGAKI

Emerald Isle ホテルエメラルドアイル 7-14 Misaki 098 082 2111, isle.okinawa. A great place whose quirky design lies somewhere on the spectrum between business and boutique. On one side, rooms are small and have all necessary mod cons; on the other, everything from the lobby up has been complemented with artistic flourishes. ¥11,500

Emix Hostel えみっくすホステル 117 Tonoshiro 098 082 5236, emix-ishigaki.com. The best of several hostels in the town centre, with relatively spacious dorms, piping-hot water in the showers, fun hosts, a paddling pool on the roof (closed in winter), and a great location in the covered arcade. Their private rooms are very good value (the single room goes for ¥2500), and rates drop through the winter. Dorms ¥1500, doubles ¥5000

KABIRA BAY

Club Med Kabira クラブメッドカビラ 1 Ishizaki 098 084 4600, clubmed.com. A good resort option, with all the creature comforts one might expect – all staff speak English or French and there are excellent facilities, including a trapeze artist on hand to teach you the ropes. Note that most guests book their rooms here as part of a tour; otherwise, rates are even higher. ¥30,000

Iriwa 島宿イリワ 599 Kabira 098 088 2563, iriwa.org. The best hostel in the Yaeyamas. The welcoming Korean-Japanese couple running the place are great sources of local information, while the accommodation – from the dorms to the private cabins – is clean and comfy. It’s hard to find by yourself, so call to be picked up from the nearby Kabira Rotari bus stop, or ask the tourist office to let the owners know which bus you’re taking. Dorms ¥2500, doubles ¥7600

Jōya 上や 920-1 Kabira 098 088 2717, jo-ya.jp. Just a short walk from the bay, this ryokan has been lovingly redesigned with a mix of traditional and modern aesthetics. The shared lounge encourages guests to mingle, as does the table outside – something akin to a converted boat. ¥12,000

SHIRAHO

Minshuku Maezato 民宿まえざと 68 Shiraho 098 086 8065. The best minshuku option in the area, with amiable owners who are adept at organizing snorkelling trips. It’s next to the post office; if you’re coming here by bus, get off at the Shōgaku-mae stop. Rates include two meals. ¥9500

YONEHARA BEACH

Yonehara Campsite 米原キャンプ場 446-1 Fukai. Simple campsite with basic toilet facilities, located in the copse of trees beside the beach. Open April–Dec. ¥1500

EATING MAP AND THIS MAP

For self-catering and local colour, check out the market in the covered arcade in Ishigaki, just north of the central Shiyakusho-dōri. Also worth mentioning are the bars and restaurants filling the new, partially open-air Ishigaki Village dining complex, which was by far the busiest place in town at the time of writing.

ISHIGAKI

A&W 245 Ōkawa 098 083 1234. Many places in Ishigaki offer much the same rundown of Okinawan food, so it may come as a relief to have some good, old-fashioned Western staples. Those from outside North America may not recognize the chain, which started life as a root-beer brand and gained popularity in Okinawa as part of the military legacy. You can get free refills of the good stuff (one, in theory; infinite, in practice), so you might as well go for a small cup (¥170), as well as grub like burgers or chilli cheese curly fries (¥420). Daily 11am–10.30pm.

Amurita-no Niwa あむりたの庭 282 Ōkawa amuritanoniwa.com. This smart yet laidback venue serves local dishes with a contemporary twist –the most delectable example is Yaeyama soba in green curry soup (¥900), though their vegan specials are certainly worth a mention. It’s also good for coffee, soy-milk chai or an evening drink – they’ll prove that the galaxy of Okinawan beer extends far beyond Orion. Note that it can close unpredictably, as the friendly young hosts take breaks and holidays when they feel like it. Daily 11am–3pm & 5–9pm.

Vagabundo バガブンド 188 Ōkawa 098 083 9278, vagabundo.jp. The best taco-rice (¥800) in the Yaeyamas, and possibly Okinawa too, available in pork, beef and veggie varieties, but only from noon–5pm (and not at all on Sun). At other times, you’ll have to stick to the regular Mexican dishes, which include plenty of vegan options. Mon 6pm–midnight, Tues–Sat noon–midnight.

Yaeyama Style 八重山スタイル 209 Ōkawa 098 083 5142. Inside the covered arcades you’ll find this excellent ramen spot, where the chef whips up the regular noodles, Okinawan variants, and a few of his own creations – one a salt ramen made with local lemons, and another an almost pasta-like dish with Okinawan ingredients and a dipping stock. You’ll pay less than ¥1000. Daily noon–8.15pm.

KABIRA BAY

Jimbei じんべい 906 Kabira 098 084 4819. Seafood-focused izakaya which fills up most nights with a mix of locals and tourists. Sushi sets go from ¥1600 (or ¥270 for individual plates), but consider their extraordinarily hearty sōki-don, a twist on Okinawa’s sōki-soba, in which pork-rib hunks are served on rice instead of noodles – it’s an absolute winner. Mon–Fri noon–2pm & 6–10pm, Sat 6–10pm.

Umaru うーまる 900 Kabira 098 088 2841. Small, simple joint whose okonomiyaki, for whatever reason, hits the spot every single time; prices are reasonable, starting at ¥650. It’s just uphill from the Kabira bus stop, on the right-hand side of the road. Fri–Wed 5.30–10pm.

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE MAP

ISHIGAKI

Cherry チェリー 8-10 Misaki-chō 098 087 0872. On the ground floor of the Ishigaki Village complex, this little venue sells grilled stick-snacks such as yakitori (¥140) and bacon-wrapped veggies or eggs (¥200). Yummy though these are, even more notable are the drinks on offer, which include a curated selection of highly rare cup sake – every single one’s a winner – and several varieties of shōchū from Kyūshū island (all from ¥500). Daily 3pm–midnight.

Usagiya うさぎや 1-1 Ishigaki 098 088 5014. Every night’s music night at this fun izakaya – performances of traditional sanshin music get going at 7pm (also 9pm in season; ¥520 extra music charge), and songbook menus mean that, if you can read katakana, you can join in the singalong. The food’s great, with a mix of local dishes and izakaya staples; it’s best washed down with some three-year-old awamori. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Taketomi-jima

竹富島

Just before six o’clock each evening, the tiny island of Taketomi-jima undergoes a profound, magical transformation. This is the time of the last ferry back to Ishigaki-jima – after that, you’re marooned, but there are few better places to be stuck. Just over 1km wide and home to fewer than three hundred people, the island’s population swells during the day with folk eager to see its traditional houses, ride on buffalo-drawn carts and search lovely sandy beaches for the famous minuscule star-shaped shells. When the day-trippers are safely back in Ishigaki, those who have chosen to stay on will have Taketomi almost to themselves – it’s possible to walk its dirt paths at night for hours on end without seeing a single soul.

A great way to get around the island is by pedalling your way over the dusty paths and roads on a bike, which is also a good way to see the local butterflies.

Taketomi

竹富

There’s only one village on Taketomi – also called TAKETOMI – and it’s a beauty. Practically all of its houses are built in traditional bungalow style with low-slung terracotta-tiled roofs, crowned with bug-eyed shiisā. Surrounding them are rocky walls, draped with hibiscus and bougainvillea: these are the ishigaki that gave a certain neighbouring island its name, yet these days they’re far more prevalent on Taketomi. There aren’t too many traditional sights here bar a small museum, but there’s a lovely ocean scene around the pier on the west side of the village – this is the best spot from which to view sunset, or sit taking in the constellations at night with a can of Orion beer, and if you’re in luck you’ll spot some glow-worms.

Kihōin Shūshūkan

喜宝院蒐集館 • 108 Taketomi • Daily 9am–5pm • ¥300

Apart from soaking up the atmosphere, the main thing to see in Taketomi village is the Kihōin Shūshūkan, a small museum with an attached gift shop. There are over two thousand items on display here, including old cigarette packets, rusting samurai swords, an ornate shrine and expressive festival masks.

Beaches

The star-sand beaches, Kondoi (コンドイ浜) and Hoshizuna (星砂浜), also known as Kaiji (カイジ浜), are a short pedal south of Taketomi, also on the west side of the island. Swimming is only possible at the former; at low tide you’ll have to wade a long way out. The best snorkelling spot is at Misashi (ミサシ), on the northern coast, where three rocky islets and their surrounding reefs provide a home to a multitude of colourful sea life.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION TAKETOMI-JIMA

By ferry Ferries from Ishigaki (¥690 one-way; 15min) run regularly (daily 7.30am–5.30pm). There are two major companies serving this route; you’ll save a full ¥50 by purchasing a return ticket (enough for a can of coffee, if there are two of you). If you’ve booked accommodation anywhere but the hostel and given advance warning of your arrival time, you’ll be met at the terminal and taken to your room. Otherwise, it’s a 10min walk from the ferry terminal to Taketomi village.

Tourist information There’s a small information booth inside the ferry terminal, but more interesting is the adjacent visitor centre (ゆがふ館; daily 8am–5pm; free; taketomijima.jp), which has displays and short films about the island’s unique lifestyle. You can equip yourself with a map from the ferry terminal, or just ask around if you can’t find your way – these are some of the friendliest locals in Japan.

Money There’s an ATM at the post office (Mon–Fri 8.45am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–5pm), though it’s a good idea to bring all necessary cash with you.

GETTING AROUND

By bike There are plenty of places in town to rent bicycles, with prices starting at ¥300/hr. Touts for the larger operations meet the ferries, and if you agree to rent a bike from them, they’ll give you a free ride into town; they’ll also take you back to the ferry at intervals on a pre-arranged schedule.

By suigyūsha Another way to get around is on buffalo-driven carts known as suigyūsha (¥1200 per person for 30min), while being serenaded by sanshin-plucking locals. It has to be said that these days they’re commonly not locals at all, but young mainlanders on a gap year. Local or not, the experience is fun but rather cheesy, and as with rickshaws and other similar forms of transport, it’s hard not to feel like a bit of a plum once you actually get moving.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Taketomi has some great accommodation options, almost all of which are in the village. Rates include breakfast and dinner unless otherwise mentioned.

Hoshinoya 新田荘 347 Taketomi 098 085 2201, painusima.com. The most luxurious accommodation on the Yaeyamas, augmenting island style and five-star sensibilities. The villas are absolutely huge, and have been designed along traditional lines; even the pool fails to come across as showy, and seems to blend into the island, while the meals are nothing short of wonderful. ¥65,000

Je t’aime ジュテーム 321-1 Taketomi 098 085 2555, taketomi-jetaime.jp. A little bit of Thailand transported to the Yaeyamas, this rickety little hostel has bunk beds in a scruffy dorm and geckos patrolling the walls. Non-smokers may not like the common room very much, since the chain-smoking owners make it reek all day as they sit around watching TV and playing video games. No meals served. Dorms ¥3200

Nitta-sō 新田荘 347 Taketomi 098 085 2201. A good budget option for solo travellers (it’s ¥5800 per head, plus ¥2000 for meals), with a range of modest tatami rooms and friendly staff. Note that the a/c is coin-operated, and at ¥100 for 30min it can work out to be quite costly; the fans are free, though in summer it can be sweltering. ¥11,600

Nohara-sō のはら荘 280 Taketomi 098 085 2252. A fantastic place to stay, with a very laidback atmosphere, excellent food and free snorkelling gear. Come sundown, a bottle of awamori is likely to appear, while the three-stringed sanshin comes out and an Okinawan singsong begins. ¥11,000

EATING MAP

The village offers a few eating options, but things can wind down early. A mini-market by the post office sells snacks and booze until 8pm, but don’t take any of the times listed here too seriously.

Chirorin Mura ちろりん村 653 Taketomi 098 085 2007. The name of this out-of-the-way “island café” has been stylised into a vaguely South Asian-style script, which hints at the slight hippy sensibilities of the young owners. It’s a great place to kick back over juice (including a tasty mix of shīkuwāsā, an Okinawan citrus and soda; ¥800), or their range of smoothie cocktails and awamori. Daily 10am–midnight.

Haaya Café ハーヤカフェー 379 Taketomi 098 085 2253. This café-restaurant-bar is the island’s most urbane place to eat or drink. The coffee’s good, the food’s fine (including veggie curry; ¥850), and the atmosphere is a sort of modern South Sea style. It’s also a good place for a drink – juices include bitter gōya juice (¥500), and they’ve plenty of awamori (¥500) and habu-snake liquor (¥600) among their range of alcoholic drinks. Daily 10am–5pm & 7–10pm.

Kanifu かにふ 494 Taketomi 098 085 2311. Gōya champurū (¥850), cutlets, curry-rice and local shrimp are the stars of the show at this excellent, barn-like restaurant. The desserts are usually worth a look, too. Daily 11am–4pm & 6–9pm.

Shidamē しだめー館 361 Taketomi 098 085 2239. Relaxed spot with outdoor seating and a modest range of Okinawan staples – try the taco-rice or sōki soba (both ¥800), or the maguroage keishoku (featuring fried, breaded tuna balls; ¥700). A whole clutch of Japanese B-list celebrities have eaten here and left their signatures – look out for the giant palm-print of Hakuhō, the most successful sumo wrestler in history. Daily noon–3pm & 6–8pm.

Iriomote-jima

西表島

Brooding darkly some 20km west of Ishigaki, Iriomote-jima is an extraordinarily wild place for Japan. Rising sharply out of the ocean, some ninety percent of its mountainous interior is covered with dense subtropical rainforest, much of which is protected as the Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park. Yaeyama rumour would have it that Iriomote often – or even perpetually – plays host to disaffected Japanese, living rough in the jungle. A more substantiated inhabitant, though equally elusive, is one of the world’s rarest species, the yamaneko, or Iriomote lynx, a nocturnal animal that looks something like a scruffy house cat. The island and its surrounding waters are also home to a splendid array of flora and coral reefs rich with tropical fish. There are plenty of opportunities for snorkelling, diving, kayaking and hiking through the rainforest; at night-time, it can be quite exciting to take a walk on the empty main road, admiring the stars overhead, and listening to the distant crash of waves.

Although it’s Okinawa’s second-largest island, fewer than two thousand people live here, most of them along barely developed strips on the north and south coasts. Ferries from Ishigaki sail to two ports on the island: Ōhara (大原) in the south and Uehara in the north. The latter is the best place to head for, since it’s closer to Iriomote’s main scenic attractions and offers the widest range of accommodation, but neither is particularly visually appealing. With more time on your hands, consider heading way out west to end-of-the-line Shirahama (白浜), or even further on by ferry to remote Funauki (船浮), which cannot be reached by road – with a real frontier feel and a truly glorious beach nearby, this is one of the most characterful towns in Japan. It’s certainly worth staying at least one night on Iriomote, though it’s best to opt for an accommodation deal that includes two meals (or at least breakfast) unless you’re staying in one of the two main towns, since eating options are thin on the ground.

Uehara

上原

It’s hard to believe that UEHARA is Iriomote’s main settlement – it’s home to mere hundreds of people, and you can traverse every single road in well under an hour. It’s not terribly interesting or very attractive, but this is the main centre of affairs; if you want to kayak, hike or go diving, it’s best to bite the bullet and use Uehara as a base. If you find yourself staying here and craving a little adventure, wander up any of the side streets heading uphill away from the main road. All eventually head to a charmingly bucolic plateau, full of farmyard sights and smells; if the moon’s fat and the sky clear, head up at night to drink in some truly haunting beauty (and perhaps a little awamori).

Urauchi-gawa and the waterfalls

浦内川 • Jungle cruise 7 daily 9.30am–3.30pm; 1hr • ¥1800 • Waterfall trip & hike 6 daily 9.30am–2pm; 3hr • ¥1800 • Waterfall & kayak tour Daily 9.30am; 6hr • ¥8400 • Kayak tour Daily 10am & 1.30pm; 2hr • ¥4000 • Waterfalls & jungle trek Daily 10.30am; 5hr • ¥7000 • Night tour Daily 7pm; 2hr • ¥5000 • 098 085 6154, urauchigawa.com • Boat and kayaking tours can be arranged at the Urauchi-gawa centre (daily 8am–5pm) • Island bus to Urauchi-gawa stop

The vast majority of visitors to Iriomote-jima come only for the day, heading straight to the Urauchi-gawa, a broad, almost Amazon-like river reachable by island bus. Here, they hop on one of various boat tours operated by the local visitor centre; the most popular terminate at a trail heading up to two scenic waterfalls: Kampirē-no-taki (カンピレーの滝) and Mariudo-no-taki (マリウドの滝). The touristy nature of this excursion is undeniable (almost anyone can easily negotiate the gentle 1.5km “trek” through the rainforest up to the falls), yet it’s still enjoyable, and there are several more adventurous options. The truly hardy may wish to consider the 15km hike across the island from the head of the Kampirē falls to the Nakama-gawa (仲間川), Iriomote’s second-largest waterway, and Ōhara – you’ll need local advice and a guide before tackling this. It’s also possible to paddle back from the falls in a kayak, which is a great way to view the rainforest at close quarters.

Pinaisāra-no-taki

ピナイサーラの滝

SNORKELLING AND DIVING OFF IRIOMOTE

Iriomote is a divers’ paradise; the Manta Way, between the island’s eastern coast and Kohama-jima, is particularly famous for its shoals of manta rays, which you’re most likely to see between April and June. The youth hostels and all minshuku can put you in touch with the island’s several dive operations. Snorkelling is particularly good at Hoshizuna Beach (星砂の浜), around 4km northwest of Funaura, where you’ll also find a campsite (¥300 per person), a decent restaurant and snorkelling gear for rent – unsurprisingly, it’s quite popular. If you’re looking to escape the crowds, head to Funauki (船浮), reachable by ferry from Shirahama, at the far west end of the coastal road; the beach here, a short trek through the jungle, is one of the most beautiful in all of Japan and great for snorkelling, though for actual diving you’ll have to get on a boat tour.

Operators in town can organize kayaking trips and treks up to Pinaisāra-no-taki, the tallest waterfall in Okinawa; the youth hostel can also provide details of hiking trails from Funaura (船浦), but even if you don’t get too close, you can clearly see the cascade from the Kaichūdōro bridge that spans the bay immediately south of Funaura. At low tide, you may well find yourself dragging your kayak across the shallows to the Hinai-gawa before paddling to the start of the trek. This will give you a chance to inspect the mangrove forests closely and see armies of purple soldier crabs scuttling across the sandbanks. On the climb to the head of the falls, keep a lookout for snakes and be prepared for leeches, especially in the wet season. At the foot of the trail, you’ll also pass many of the distinctive sakishima suōnoki trees.

Shirahama

白浜

The road that snakes most of the way around Iriomote hits its western terminus in Shirahama; there is no lovelier, more relaxed place on the full 53km stretch than this. While there are no sights here as such, it won’t take long to spot the monument to a geographical nicety: it’s placed on the 123°45’6.789” line of longitude (the eagle-eyed will have seen another one on the way in from Uehara).

Funauki

船浮 • Ferries from Shirahama 5 daily; 20min • ¥950 return

An even more pleasant and chilled out place than Shirahama lies not far away: Funauki, a tiny village that's only reachable by ferry. The town’s own focal points are a curry restaurant and a hilariously oversized school; at the time of writing, the latter boasted a fully stocked gymnasium, a whole orchestra’s worth of musical equipment, seven staff, one principal... and, at the time of writing, no students. Pop by to say hello, and you’ll make everyone’s day. The real draw here, however, is Ida beach (イダの浜), a stretch of pristine sand reachable after a fifteen-minute walk along a jungle path; this is one of the most splendid beaches in all Japan, with one distant lighthouse the only blot on an almost entirely natural horizon. In fact, the only annoyance is that the most convenient ferry back to Shirahama misses the last island bus by ten minutes – truly ridiculous.

Yubu-jima

由布島 • ¥600 for island access, ¥1720 if using buffalo cart (every 30min) • yubujima.com/english

If schedules oblige you to use the Ōhara ferry terminal (which is quite often the case), and if you’ve got your own wheels, you may care to stop by quirky little Yubu-jima on the way between here and Uehara. The islet lies just offshore, and for much of the day it’s basically possible to walk across with suitable footwear. A more enjoyable means of access – and useful if you don’t have a pair of wellies with you – are the buffalo that trudge through the mud, carting wagons behind them. Once on the island, walking paths allow you to see butterflies, warthogs and flowers aplenty, as well as part-submerged mangrove forests on the land-facing side.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE IRIOMOTE-JIMA

By ferry Yaeyama Kankō and Anei Kankō both run regular high-speed ferries from Ishigaki to Uehara (50min; ¥2360 one-way, ¥4510 return) and Ōhara (40min; ¥1800 one-way, ¥3440 return). Inclement conditions (or a lack of demand) may force ferries to use Ōhara – check with your accommodation when you’re on your way back to Ishigaki.

GETTING AROUND

By bus Iriomote’s only main road runs along the coast from Ōhara via Funaura and Uehara to Shirahama in the west; all of these villages are linked by just four daily public buses. It’s usually best to buy a pass, which will pay for itself if you take even one lengthy journey; a one-day pass costs ¥1030, and a three-day one ¥1540.

By car and bike To really explore the island, you’ll need to rent a bike or car; if your accommodation can’t help, they’ll be able to point the way to the nearest rental spot. There are several in both Ōhara and Uehara.

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES

Services The island’s few post offices (in the two main towns and just north of Shirahama) are usually able to accept international cards; that said, it’s advisable to arrive with enough cash to cover your stay.

Diving Reef Encounters, on Okinawa-Hontō, organizes excellent trips to this distant island. There are plenty of operators in the immediate environs of the Uehara ferry terminal, though none speak English; the curry restaurant in Funauki also rents out snorkelling equipment if you’re hitting the beach way out that way.

Kayaking You’ll find a variety of places around the Uehara ferry terminal that rent out kayaks or arrange tours.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

UEHARA

Coconut Village ココナッツビレッジ 397-1 Uehara 098 085 6045. On the northwestern outskirts of Uehara, this modern beachside complex has small tatami and Western-style rooms (with very low beds), a restaurant and a fresh-water pool. ¥13,000

Irumote-sō Youth Hostel いるもて荘ユースホステル 870-95 Uehara 098 085 6255. This is a great budget place with a hilltop location that makes it a little hard to walk to – no matter, since the friendly owners will pick you up from Uehara. Serves excellent meals, has bikes and scooters for rent, and organizes a daily drop-off at the Urauchi-gawa and Hoshizuna beach. The dorms are far too expensive – just pay a little extra for a private room. Dorms ¥4000, doubles ¥4500 per person

Kanpira-sō カンピラ荘 545 Uehara 098 085 6508, kanpira.com. Only a minute on foot from Uehara ferry terminal (turn right at the main road and you’re already there), this is a lovely place with cosy, good-value rooms, both en-suite and otherwise. Little English is spoken, but they have a wealth of pamphlets, schedules and the like. ¥6000

WESTERN IRIOMOTE

Funauki-sō ふなうき荘 By the port, Funauki 098 085 6161. This basic minshuku is nothing special, but there’s only one other choice in Funauki, and that’s the same price but worse. There’s a little izakaya just around the corner, and a real edge-of-the-world atmosphere. ¥12,000

Nirakanai ホテルニラカナイ 2-2 Uehara 098 085 7111, nirakanai-iriomotejima.jp. The fanciest place on the island, this is a little slice of secluded paradise with snazzy, wood-floored rooms separated from the beach by nothing more than a swimming pool. It’s a bit distant from everything, so you’ll most likely have to rent a car if you want to eat or drink elsewhere, but they’ve free shuttle buses to Uehara port. ¥20,000

EATING MAP

As with any small Okinawan island, don’t take the stipulated restaurant opening times too seriously. There aren’t too many eating options in Uehara; those who are not getting fed at their accommodation should note that there’s also a small supermarket opposite the ferry terminal (daily 8am–8pm).

UEHARA

Densā デンサー 558 Uehara 098 085 6453. On Uehara’s main “drag”, though a bit hard to spot, this small eatery is often the only place serving food in the middle of the day. A decent range of Okinawan staples is on offer, including Yaeyama soba (¥500) and pork on rice (¥600). Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11.30am–7pm.

Laugh la Garden ラフラガーデン 550-1 Uehara 098 085 7088. On the other side of the main road from the ferry terminal, this second-floor venue is Uehara’s most reliable restaurant by far (despite the odd name and opening hours). The gōya champurū set meal (¥800) is big and tasty, as is the oden. Lastly, it’s a nice drinking hole, too; there’s plenty of awamori (from ¥400), as well as more regular Japanese tipples. Mon, Tues & Sat–Sun 6.30pm–midnight.

FUNAUKI

Bū-no-ie ぶーの家 2462 Iriomote 090 6868 7184. For a Funauki restaurant run by an elderly couple, this has its marketing cap on straight – you’ll see signs all the way from Shirahama ferry terminal, and it’s also the only place in town renting out snorkelling equipment. The charming lady serves curry (¥800 with chicken, ¥900 with mountain boar hunted by her husband) and coffee (¥200 extra) in a garden-like outdoor area. Daily 9am–5pm.

UNDERWATER YONAGUNI

Much more interesting than anything on Yonaguni’s tiny landmass is what lies on the seabed beneath. In 1986, local divers came across what looked like a giant rock-carved staircase, or possibly part of a pyramid, 80m long, 50m wide and 20m high. Researchers have flocked to what have been described as the underwater ruins (海底遺跡) ever since. Some claim the rocks are part of the legendary ancient civilization of Mu, an Asian Atlantis. The weather dictates whether diving is possible here – when the wind’s blowing from the south, it’s too dangerous. Another diving highlight here is the sight of schools of hammerhead sharks, particularly in the winter months.

To organize a diving trip, your best bet is Marine Club Sou-Wes ( 098 087 2311, yonaguni.jp), connected to hotel Irifune, whose owner actually discovered the ruins; a single dive will set you back around ¥13,000, including equipment rental, while snorkelling trips are closer to ¥5000. For kayaking, try your luck at Guesthouse Adan (ゲストハウス阿檀; 186-1 Yonaguni; 098 087 2947).

Yonaguni-jima

与那国島

Some 127km west of Ishigaki and 2000km from Tokyo, Yonaguni-jima is the farthest west you can go and still be in Japan; on a clear day, you can see Taiwan 111km away from Yonaguni’s highest point, Mount Urabu. It’s just 11km long, so it won’t take you long to tour this predominantly rural but hilly island. SONAI (祖納) on the north coast is the main community; ferries dock in its port, and the airport is a couple of kilometres west. A circuit of the island shouldn’t take you more than half a day, although you’d be mad to pass up the chance to linger at some of the most deserted beaches in the Yaeyamas. Heading west from Sonai past the tiny port of Kubura (久部良) and out to Irizaki (西崎), you’ll find a simple monument marking Japan’s westernmost point, atop sheer cliffs.

Intriguing rock formations can be found above water on Yonaguni’s east coast. Gunkan-iwa (軍艦岩) is said to resemble a battleship, although it actually looks more like a submarine rising to the surface. There’s little debate over what the Tachigami-iwa (立神岩) outcrop resembles – it’s worshipped by locals as a symbol of virility. On the nearby hillsides, wild Yonaguni horses roam.

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND YONAGUNI-JIMA

By plane Yonaguni is accessible with flights from Ishigaki (2 daily; 30min) and Naha (2 daily; 1hr). The planes are tiny and propeller-driven.

By ferry Twice-weekly ferries run from Ishigaki (4hr; ¥3860) to Kubura port, on the west side of the island.

By bike and car The best way to get around is with a rented bike or car – the latter is best arranged at the airport, while for bikes try asking at Fiesta.

ACCOMMODATION MAP

Sonai has a handful of hotels, though not many places to eat – few places are open for more than a couple of hours a day.

Fiesta ホステルフィエスタ 1080 Yonaguni 098 087 2339. Occasionally lively hostel, with dorm “beds” (futons on the floor) and a few private rooms, plus cooking facilities and free coffee. Dorms ¥2000, doubles ¥4500

Irifune ホテル入船 59-6 Yonaguni 098 087 2311. This is the classiest place in town, though that’s not saying much – the rooms are overpriced, for sure. However, staff run glass-bottom boat tours, diving and fishing trips. ¥12,000

EATING MAP

Onna Shūcho 女酋長 5-2 Yonaguni 098 087 3282. Yonaguni’s best izakaya by a long way, a sometimes rowdy affair lassoing together the area’s locals, divers and visitors. Try their delectable gōya tempura, a snip at ¥500. Thurs–Tues 6pm–midnight.

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MAKURA BRIDGE OVER THE SUMIDA RIVER BY HOKUSAI

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Glossary

History

Archeological evidence shows that humans settled in Japan more than 30,000 years ago; most probably migrants from mainland Asia as well as Polynesians who moved north along the east Asian coast. Living mainly by hunting, fishing and gathering, with some cultivation of plants, they spread through the Japanese archipelago. The Jōmon culture began about 10,000–15,000 years ago; in this age, the Japanese began to live in fixed communities composed of large wooden structures. The pottery they made was decorated with a rope pattern (jōmon). By about 1000 BC, these communities showed increasingly developed social structures and cultural practices.

The impetus for the change from a hunting, fishing and gathering culture to one based on agriculture was the arrival of large numbers of Korean immigrants to Japan, who brought with them the technologies for growing rice in irrigated fields and for making bronze implements. This process had begun at least by 400 BC, initiating what is called the Yayoi period, which was characterized by highly developed communities and lasted until about 300 AD. As the Yayoi communities developed socially and economically, class divisions appeared, and some families became rulers of small “countries”. Chinese records indicate that Japan was composed of more than a hundred of these local states, which were often at war with each other.

The Kofun (Tomb) period and the arrival of Buddhism

As the ruling families of the Yayoi era became more powerful and wealthy, they began to build large burial mounds (kofun) for their deceased leaders. This took place from the fourth to the seventh centuries AD, in what is known as the Kofun, or Tomb, period. These mounds, numbering in the thousands, can be found throughout Japan. The largest, attributed to the ruler Nintoku, was built in the mid-fifth century and is one of the three largest tombs in the world. In this period, many technologies were brought from Korea that improved upon existing methods, including new techniques for irrigating rice fields, making ceramics, metalworking, weaving and writing. At the same time, political organization spread throughout Japan, fuelling the increasing power of ruling families.

THE MAJOR HISTORICAL PERIODS

Jōmon | 10,000–300 BC
Yayoi | 300 BC–300 AD
Kofun | 300–710
Nara | 710–794
Heian | 794–1185
Kamakura | 1185–1333
Muromachi | 1333–1573
(or Ashikaga)
Azuchi-Momoyama | 1573–1600
Edo (or Tokugawa) | 1600–1868
Meiji | 1868–1912
Taishō | 1912–1926
Shōwa | 1926–1989
Heisei | 1989–2019
Reiwa | 2019–present day

During the Tomb period, the numerous small local kingdoms gradually merged into one nation under the rule of the Yamato court, in central Japan. To consolidate their power, the Yamato rulers made use of Chinese political ideas, such as court rituals and Confucian philosophy. The introduction of Buddhism in around 550 provided another opportunity for the imperial family to strengthen its position. Prince Shōtoku, regent during the reign of Empress Suiko, emphasized both Confucian and Buddhist principles for governance in his Seventeen-article Constitution of 604, and he is traditionally associated with the founding of the Buddhist temples Hōryū-ji near Nara and Shitennō-ji in Osaka.

However, the ruling family was still weak and had been dominated by the Soga clan since the mid-sixth century. The Soga’s power came to an end with the Taika (“great change”) coup d’état in 645, followed by the Taika Reforms, which decreed that all agricultural land was state property and all persons were subject to the imperial government. Emperor Tenmu was the key figure in establishing the power of the imperial family and the building of a strong central government. Having obtained real power through his victory in the succession dispute known as the Jinshin War (672), he staffed his government with imperial relatives and brought other clan chieftains into the government at lower ranks. The concept of a divine emperor, descended from the gods, was established at this time. Tenmu put Amaterasu (the Sun Goddess), the ancestral deity of the imperial clan, ahead of all other ancestral deities.

The first permanent capital city, Fujiwara-kyō, was established in 694, with a layout similar to the Chinese capital city of Chang’an. Further, a number of penal and administrative codes were promulgated at this time, attempting to establish a government on the Chinese model, headed by the emperor and administered by a vast bureaucracy.

Cultural awakening in the Nara period

The city of Nara, originally named Heijō-kyō, was established in 710 as the capital city. It, too, was laid out in a checkerboard pattern on the model of Chang’an, and was built on a grand scale, a hint of which can be seen in the recent reconstructions of the Nara imperial palace. The government continued to issue Chinese-style law codes, expand the bureaucracy and attempt to establish control over the provinces. Emperor Shōmu sought to use the increasing popularity of Buddhism as an additional means of enhancing imperial power. He ordered the construction of the Great Buddha (daibutsu) statue depicting the cosmic Buddha Rushana (Vairocana), who presides over the universe; Shōmu sought to establish a parallel between Rushana’s rule over the universe and the emperor’s rule over the officials and the people.

The Nara period saw a tremendous flowering of the arts, remains of which can be seen in the city today. In addition to great works of sculpture, painting and architecture, important literary works were produced. Japan’s oldest surviving historical documents were transcribed in these years – the Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon-shoki (Chronicles of Japan) – establishing the legitimacy of the imperial rulers through divine descent. Nara was the eastern terminus of the Silk Road trade route, and many objects from as far as Persia – now deposited in the Shōsō-in, the imperial repository at Tōdai-ji – reached Japan this way. Finally, numerous advances in administrative procedures such as taxation and census-taking helped to establish the imperial government in Nara as the government of all Japan.

Beneath the surface, however, imperial rule was far from stable. The Fujiwara family, descendants of a clan that aided the imperial family to escape from the control of the Soga clan in the Taika coup of 645, increasingly exerted control over the imperial family by marrying their daughters to princes, such as in the case of Emperor Shōmu, whose mother and wife were both Fujiwara women. There were even two armed rebellions against the imperial government led by members of the Fujiwara family. Struggles both within the imperial family itself and against the Fujiwara caused several temporary relocations of the capital during this period; finally, under Emperor Kammu, a new capital city was built at Nagaoka-kyō (near present-day Kyoto), and the government resided there from 784 until 794.

The Heian Period and the rise of the samurai

In 794, the imperial palace moved once again, and a new capital was established at Heian-kyō (Kyoto). This move served to strengthen Emperor Kammu’s branch of the imperial family, weakening the other noble families at court because of the heavy cost of the move, and bringing the Buddhist clergy under stricter control. Again, the capital was laid out on the Chinese model in a checkerboard pattern, evidence of which remains to this day. The Heian Shrine, a modern replica on a smaller scale, gives some idea of the Chinese style of the original Great Hall of State. In contrast to the many relocations of the capital in the past, Kyoto was to remain the imperial capital of Japan for more than a thousand years, until 1869.

For much of the Heian period, the imperial court was dominated by the Fujiwara family, who continued their strategy of “marriage politics.” Fujiwara Michinaga, whose villa in Uji became Byōdō-in, represented the high point of Fujiwara dominance, with four of his daughters married to emperors. However, the daughters of his son Yorimichi did not produce male heirs, so when Go-Sanjō ascended the throne in 1068, he was the first emperor in almost two centuries whose mother was not a Fujiwara. This competition between the imperial family and the Fujiwara continued throughout the Heian period, complicated by the increasing influence of the great Buddhist temples and the rising power of warrior families. These elite groups gradually usurped powers of taxation and administration, so that aspects of government began to be privatized, beginning with land. Noblemen sent as governors to the provinces formed ties with powerful local families and gradually established control over land that they treated as their private property and for which they paid no taxes. The great temples and shrines also held land that was tax exempt; the income from it was used to support religious activities. Finally, even the imperial family came to hold land privately. By the end of the Heian period, almost half of the land in the country was no longer public land.

The privatization of government functions was also reflected in the rise of the notorious military class of the samurai. Chinese-style conscription, established in the mid-seventh century, proved both unnecessary and ineffective, and led the government gradually to rely on private military professionals, composed of provincial elites as well as aristocrats of lower rank: two of the leading warrior families, the Taira (Heike) and Minamoto (Genji), were descendants of emperors. Despite this, while the central government itself gradually lost political power as administrative and military functions were privatized, the imperial family and the aristocrats surrounding them continued to hold symbolic and sacerdotal authority. Just as the Fujiwara clan ruled by dominating the imperial family rather than replacing it, so too would the succeeding military governments rule in the emperor’s name.

The struggle between the Taira and the Minamoto brought the Heian period to an end. Taking part in a succession dispute within the imperial family, these two clans fought each other in the late 1150s; the Taira, led by Taira Kiyomori, emerged the victors. Kiyomori sought to consolidate his power by adopting the same methods that the existing elite had used, taking high court posts and using “marriage politics” to become grandfather to an infant emperor.

In the meantime, Minamoto Yoritomo, who had been sent into exile in eastern Japan, spent several years building a strong military force from his headquarters at Kamakura, and in a civil war lasting from 1180 to 1185, the Minamoto defeated the Taira. The tragic figure in this story is Minamoto Yoshitsune, Yoritomo’s half brother. His skill in battle did much to enable the Minamoto victory; however, jealous of Yoshitsune’s popularity and suspicious of his loyalty, Yoritomo sent soldiers out to kill him. On the run for several years, Yoshitsune was eventually betrayed and forced to commit suicide; his head was sent, preserved in sake, to his brother.

The Kamakura period and invasions by the Mongols

The Kamakura bakufu (shogunate) was founded by Minamoto Yoritomo in 1185. It was legitimized by the imperial court, specifically by his appointment as shogun in 1192. However, it remained separate from the imperial establishment in Kyoto not only by maintaining headquarters in Kamakura, but by creating a highly developed civil administration and code of government.

After Yoritomo’s death, the bakufu was dominated by the Hōjō clan, the family of the late shogun’s wife Masako, who by all accounts was one of the dominant personalities of this era. The Hōjō served as regents to the actual shogun, who were often aristocrats brought from Kyoto. Although the Kamakura bakufu increased its power over Kyoto to some extent, thirteenth-century Japan was basically a “dual polity” in which the imperial government in Kyoto ruled Japan in tandem with the military government in Kamakura.

The thirteenth century was marked by two great events: Japan was invaded twice by forces of the Mongol Empire, first in 1274 and again in 1281. The Japanese managed to fight off the Mongols, with the aid of typhoons (“divine winds”, or kamikaze), from Hakata Bay in northern Kyūshū, where the foreigners landed. Remains of the stone wall constructed around Hakata Bay after the first invasion as defensive fortifications can be seen to this day. Despite this victory, the invasions were a heavy blow to the bakufu. The basic relationship between the shogun and his vassals was the granting of land in return for service. Many vassals had been mobilized, at great expense to themselves, but after the defeat of the Mongols, there was no land available for distribution as rewards for service. This added to the economic hardships many vassals were already undergoing; the situation was ripe for revolt.

The Muromachi (or Ashikaga) period and a century of warfare

The insurgency was led by Emperor Go-Daigo and aided by Ashikaga Takeuji (1305–58), head of an eastern warrior family that had become disaffected with the Kamakura bakufu and its Hōjō leaders. Kamakura was taken in 1333, and for the next three years Go-Daigo attempted to re-establish direct rule by the imperial family. However, by favouring court nobles and officials rather than the warriors who had supported him, he alienated Takeuji, who drove him from Kyoto in 1336 and threw his support behind a rival claimant to the throne, Kōmyō. Go-Daigo fled to the mountains of Yoshino, where he set up court at Yoshimizu Shrine. Until the end of the fourteenth century, two lines of the imperial family each claimed legitimacy. This occasioned much warfare, although the military tactics of the time relied on small groups of mounted archers, so the number of combatants was relatively small.

The Ashikaga (or Muromachi) bakufu began officially in 1338 when Takeuji was appointed shogun; he was the first of fifteen Ashikaga shogun who headed the bakufu, until it was destroyed in 1573. The bakufu headquarters was in Kyoto, which suggests how closely they were dependent on the imperial court for legitimacy. In fact, the Ashikaga shoguns’ control over the military families in the provinces was quite weak.

The early Ashikaga shoguns are justly famous for their love of the arts. The nō theatre developed under their patronage; Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji temples were originally their villas. They also established a network of Zen temples throughout Japan, in an unsuccessful attempt to use Buddhism to strengthen their political power.

This Muromachi period saw a number of important changes in Japanese society: military force gradually replaced the imperial court and bakufu as the ultimate authority in settling disputes; the population grew; the economy developed significantly and became increasingly based on capital; international trade, both official and private, expanded significantly; and farmers became more economically powerful vis-à-vis their rulers. The shogunate itself relied less on income from land holdings and more from taxes on the commerce that flourished in Kyoto.

The beginning of the end for the Ashikaga bakufu was the Ōnin War (1467–77), which had its roots in succession disputes among the Ashikaga leadership. During this drawn-out struggle, much of Kyoto was destroyed. Many of the participants were troops led by provincial governors, who fought on one side or the other to secure recognition from the shogun to legitimize their authority in the provinces. But while they were engaged in this struggle at the centre, the very provinces the governors were trying to protect were being taken over by local warriors. Other governors remained in the provinces to consolidate their control by military force without much concern for court or bakufu appointments. This ushered in the century of warfare, the Warring States period from roughly the end of the Ōnin War until the unification of Japan in the late sixteenth century.

The “states” of this era were areas of land under the control of warlords called “daimyō” who held this land by virtue of their military strength, although they often sought prestige and legitimacy by seeking appointment by the shogun as provincial governor or even imperial court titles. Daimyō established formal governments and legal systems, tried various means to expand agricultural production, took control of local resources (such as metals) and stimulated the local economy by encouraging trade. Where they were successful, towns grew up around their castles. These ruling warlords were able to improve their military strength by creating large armies of foot soldiers equipped initially with pikes, and, after the Portuguese brought powerful new weapons to Japan in the 1540s, subsequently with firearms.

“State” instability caused constant war between them; in many cases the domains were nothing more than a coalition of alliances, not actual territory, so the daimyō’s rule lasted only for as long as he could keep his vassals satisfied by grants of new land. To gain this land, the daimyō had to be perpetually engaged in warfare; this required more vassals, who in turn required more land as rewards, which led to a vicious circle from which most daimyō were unable to escape.

Reunification (Azuchi-Momoyama period)

The end of the Warring States period of political uncertainty and relentless warfare came in the late sixteenth century. First, Oda Nobunaga managed through military tactical skill and sheer ruthlessness to dominate first his local area to the east of Kyoto, and then to enter the capital at the head of fifty thousand troops in 1568. He established relationships with the bakufu and the court, and set about gaining control of central Japan. In 1573, he drove the last Ashikaga shogun out of Kyoto, thus bringing the bakufu of the Muromachi period to an end. He continued to expand and strengthen his hold over central and a portion of eastern Japan until he met his death by the treachery of a vassal in 1582.

Shortly afterwards, another Oda vassal, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, avenged Nobunaga’s death, took over as leader of Nobunaga’s forces and, by military might and skilful diplomacy, managed to bring all of Japan under his control by 1590. Hideyoshi sought legitimacy by supporting the imperial family and being rewarded with court rank. The political system he established, together with his social and economic policies, set the stage for the next two centuries. Politically, Hideyoshi dominated the central government, but most of Japan was ruled by local daimyō who served as Hideyoshi’s vassals, and in turn were confirmed as the rulers of their domains. Farmers were tied to their land by means of land surveys, and their weapons confiscated. The local samurai in turn were cut off from their local bases of power and forced to move to the daimyō’s castle town. Hideyoshi’s economic policies included freeing production and trade by abolishing guilds, minting coins, standardizing weights and measures and taking control of international trade.

When he died in 1598, Hideyoshi’s heir, Hideyori, was still a child, allowing Tokugawa Ieyasu, Hideyoshi’s most powerful vassal, to take control. After defeating the Toyotomi forces at the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Ieyasu asserted his authority over the other daimyō and was appointed shogun by the emperor in 1603. This began the Tokugawa (or Edo) bakufu, headquartered at Edo Castle, the present-day site of the Imperial Palace in Tokyo.

THE WAY OF THE WARRIOR

The origins of the samurai, Japan’s warrior caste, go back to the ninth century, when the feudal lords began to maintain regular forces. Gradually, they evolved into an elite group of hereditary warriors, their lives governed by an unwritten code of behaviour and unquestioning loyalty that came to be known as bushidō, the way of the warrior.

According to bushidō, the samurai and his family were expected to die willingly to protect the life and honour of their feudal lord. If they failed in this duty, or were about to be taken prisoner on a battlefield, then suicide was the only fitting response. The traditional method of ritual suicide was disembowelment with a sword or dagger (seppuku), though in later years an accomplice would stand by to cut off the victim’s head. The samurai creed reached full bloom in the early Tokugawa era when class distinctions were officially delineated. The samurai were deemed “the masters of the four classes” – above farmers, artisans and merchants – and they alone were permitted to carry swords. They even had the right to kill any member of the lower orders for disrespectful behaviour, real or imagined.

During the more peaceful seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, many samurai found themselves out of work as their lords were dispossessed and fiefdoms redistributed. Many became rōnin, or masterless samurai, whose lives were romanticized in such films as The Seven Samurai.

Tokugawa shogunate (Edo period)

The basis for Tokugawa rule was the overwhelming military strength of the Tokugawa and their allies over the other daimyō. As liege lord, the shogun commanded the obedience of the 260 to 280 daimyō, who owed their loyalty to him in return for being confirmed in their domains. As shogun, the Tokugawa drew on the authority and legitimacy of the imperial court. Further, the bakufu held vast territories throughout Japan under its direct control; these included not only agricultural land but also important cities such as Kyoto and Osaka, as well as ports, mines and markets. The daimyō were required to reside part of the year in Edo, thus forcing them into expensive, time-consuming journeys, and to surrender family hostages who lived in Edo permanently. The expense of these journeys, combined with the cost of maintaining a household in Edo, could cost the daimyō as much as one-half of their annual revenues. Further, a network of inspectors and spies was set up, and any significant rebuilding of local castles had to be reported.

Despite this successful control of the ruling elite, the Tokugawa bakufu never established a unified, centralized government. Its revenues came from its own lands; the daimyō domains were not taxed. Likewise, administrative and legal functions were not unified; each daimyō domain had its own administration and laws. This system of “centralized feudalism” lasted for more than 250 years, interrupted by only one major rebellion, at Shimabara in 1637–38, and numerous small-scale riots by farmers.

It is often said that Tokugawa Japan was isolated from the rest of the world, but in fact the bakufu maintained trading relations with several Asian countries, as well as the Dutch. Embassies from Korea and the Netherlands visited the shogun in Edo regularly, enhancing the government’s prestige. Fearful of subversion, the shogunate outlawed Christianity, expelled the Portuguese merchants and missionaries and confined the Dutch traders to Deshima (Dejima) in Nagasaki in 1641. International trade declined from the late seventeenth century, as Japan mined less silver but produced more silk. Conversely, the demand for European scientific knowledge brought by the Dutch grew stronger.

Tokugawa society was dominated by the samurai class, whose main function was to serve as administrators in the bakufu and domain governments. In this way, the samurai were transformed from warriors into bureaucrats, and their study of the martial arts became more philosophical than practical. There were more samurai than administrative posts, however, so many were reduced to poverty.

A main characteristic of Tokugawa Japan was that it was a highly urbanized society, with more than thirty cities of over 25,000 residents; Edo itself was perhaps the largest city in the world in the eighteenth century with a population of one million. Most of these cities were castle towns, such as Himeji, Matsumoto, and Matsue. The daimyō lived in the castle, which was surrounded by the houses of their samurai retainers, and of the merchants and artisans who supplied their needs. The requirement that all daimyō travel regularly to Edo led to the construction of a nationwide network of highways, stimulated commerce in both Edo and the domains, and the creation of a national culture, including the kabuki and bunraku theatres and ukiyo-e prints.

The arrival of the Black Ships

British survey vessels and Russian envoys visited Japan in the early nineteenth century, but the greatest pressure came from the US, whose trading and whaling routes passed to the south of the country. In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry of the US Navy arrived with a small fleet of “black ships”, demanding that Japan open at least some ports to foreigners. Japan’s ruling elite was thrown into turmoil. The shogunate was already fearful of foreign incursions following the British defeat of China in the Opium Wars. However, when the emperor demanded that the foreigners be rebuffed, it quickly became clear that Japan’s military was not up to the task.

There followed a decade of jockeying for power among different factions, and for influence by the foreign envoys. The first of these was the American Townsend Harris, who managed to extract concessions in the form of the pioneering Treaty of Commerce and Navigation in 1858. This was followed by a flurry of similar agreements with other Western countries, which opened the treaty ports of Yokohama, Hakodate, Nagasaki and, later, Kōbe and Osaka to trade, forbade the Japanese to impose protective tariffs and allowed foreigners the right of residence and certain judicial rights in the enclaves.

Opponents of such shameful appeasement by the shogunate took up the slogan sonnō jōi (Revere the emperor! Expel the barbarians!). Other, less reactionary, factions could see that Japan was in no state to do this, and their only hope of remaining independent was to learn from the more powerful nations. Eventually, the great western domains – Satsuma, Chōshū, Tosa and Hizen, previously rivals – combined forces under the banner of the emperor to exact revenge against the Tokugawa, whom they had seen as usurpers of the throne’s authority ever since the Battle of Sekigahara, two hundred and fifty years previously.

Evidence of the shift in power came in 1863, when Emperor Kōmei ordered the fourteenth shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, to Kyoto to explain his conciliatory actions; it was the first visit by a shogun to the imperial capital since 1634. To add to the humiliation, Iemochi could only muster a mere three thousand retainers, compared with the three hundred thousand who had accompanied the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, to Kyoto on that earlier occasion.

In 1867, the fifteenth and final shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, formally applied to the emperor to have imperial power restored. The shogunate was terminated, and in December of the same year, the Imperial Restoration was formally proclaimed, and the 15-year-old Mutsuhito acceded to the throne, ushering in a period dubbed Meiji, or “enlightened rule.” In 1869, the young emperor moved his court from Kyoto to Edo, and renamed it Tokyo (Eastern Capital).

Modernization and colonization in the Meiji period

The reign of Emperor Meiji, as Mutsuhito was posthumously known, saw vast changes in Japan. A policy of modernization, termed fukoku kyōhei (“enrich the country, strengthen the military”), was adopted. Railways were built, compulsory education and military service introduced, the solar calendar adopted, and the daimyō domains and the class system abolished. Such rapid changes created resistance, and in 1877, Saigō Takamori, a hero of the restoration, led an army of forty thousand in the Satsuma Rebellion, named after the area of Kyūshū in which it erupted. His defeat demonstrated that an army of farmers trained as soldiers could overcome samurai.

In the 1880s, even more changes were imposed by the ruling oligarchy of Meiji Restoration leaders, who imported several thousand foreign advisers for assistance. Japan adopted a Western-style constitution in 1889, drawn up by Itō Hirobumi (1841–1909), who had spent time in Europe studying constitutions. The Meiji Constitution created a weak parliament (the Diet), the lower house of which less than two percent of the population were entitled to vote for. In effect, a small group of leaders known as the Meiji “oligarchs” dominated the government, a situation reinforced by the Imperial Rescript on Education in 1890, which enshrined almost as law loyalty to the emperor, family and state. Shintō, which emphasized emperor-worship, became the state religion, while Buddhism, associated too closely with the previous order, was disestablished. Japan’s rulers also began to copy the West’s territorial ambitions. The island of Hokkaidō, previously left pretty much to the native Ainu, was actively colonized, partly to ward off a takeover by Russia. In 1894, territorial spats with an ailing China developed into the Sino-Japanese War over the Chinese tributary state of Korea. The fighting lasted less than a year, with a treaty being signed in Shimonoseki in 1895 that granted Korea independence, and indemnities, economic concessions and territory to Japan, including Taiwan, then called Formosa.

This unexpected victory brought Japan into conflict with Russia, which had its eye on China’s Liaodong peninsula for a naval base at Port Arthur. After cordial relations with Britain were cemented in the 1902 Anglo-Japanese Alliance, Japan declared war on Russia in 1904 and destroyed the Russian fleet in 1905. The land battles of the Russo-Japanese War were less decisive, but in a US-mediated treaty in 1905, Russia was forced to make some territorial concessions to Japan. In 1909, the assassination of Itō Hirobumi, the newly appointed “resident general” of Korea, provided Japan with an excuse to fully annexe the country the following year. Thus, by the beginning of the twentieth century, Japan had not only “modernized” its government and society but had become a colonial power as well.

The Taishō period

The sudden death of Emperor Meiji in 1912 ushered in the relatively brief Taishō (Great Righteousness) era. This period saw much political ferment and numerous popular protests, including the nationwide Rice Riots of 1918. This period is called the age of “Taishō Democracy” because of the rise of political parties and the growing prominence of elected politicians. Universal male suffrage became law in 1925.

During World War I, Japan allied itself with Britain. Despite gaining more territory in Asia after the war and being one of the “Big Five” at the Paris Peace Conference and a founding member of the League of Nations in 1920, Japan was frustrated by Australia, Britain and the US in its attempts to get a declaration of racial equality inserted as part of the Charter of the League. This snub, however, didn’t preclude continued friendly relations between Japan and the West. In 1921, Crown Prince Hirohito was a guest of King George V at Buckingham Palace, while the following year the Prince of Wales spent a month touring Japan.

Levelling Yokohama and much of Tokyo, and leaving over a hundred thousand dead or missing, the 1923 Great Kantō Earthquake was a significant blow, but the country was quickly back on its feet and celebrating the enthronement of Emperor Hirohito in 1926, who chose the name Shōwa (Enlightened Peace) for his reign.

The slide to war

Economic and political turmoil in the early 1930s provided the military with the opportunity it needed to seize full control. In 1931, the Manchurian Incident saw army officers cook up an excuse for attacking and occupying the Manchurian region of northern China. Japan installed P’u Yi, the last emperor of China’s Qing dynasty, as the head of their puppet state, Manchukuo, and responded to Western condemnation of its actions by withdrawing from the League of Nations in 1933.

At home, the military increased its grip on power in the wake of assassinations in 1932 of both the prime minister and the former finance minister, and a confused, short-lived coup by 1400 dissident army officers in February 1936. Rapid industrialization also laid the foundations for some of the most famous Japanese firms of the twentieth century, including the automobile makers Mazda, Toyota and Nissan, and the electronics giant Matsushita.

In 1936, Japan joined Nazi Germany (and later Fascist Italy) in the Anti-Comintern Pact, and the following year launched a full-scale invasion of China. From December 1937, the infamous Rape of Nanking took place over a six-week period, with appalling atrocities committed by the Japanese military. As World War II began in Europe, Japan initially held off attacking Allied colonies in the Far East, but when France and the Netherlands fell to Germany, Japan’s qualms disappeared. Sanctions were imposed by Britain and the US as Japan’s army moved into Indo-China, threatening Malaya and the East Indies.

The Pacific War

On December 7, 1941, the Japanese launched a surprise attack on the US naval base at Hawaii’s Pearl Harbor, starting the Pacific War. In rapid succession, the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaya and Burma fell to Japanese forces. However, the tide was stemmed in New Guinea and, in June 1942, the US Navy won a decisive victory at the Battle of Midway by sinking four Japanese aircraft carriers. Although Japan had launched its campaign to secure a “Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere” in which it would free its neighbours from colonization and help them develop like the West, the brutal, racist, and exploitative reality of Japanese occupation meant there was no support from these potential Southeast Asian allies. Nor was there a likelihood of military cooperation between Japan and Germany, who eyed each other suspiciously, despite their pact.

By 1944, with the US capture of the Pacific island of Saipan, Japan was heading for defeat. The country was now within range of US heavy bombers, but there was a determination to fight to the bitter end, as exemplified by suicidal “kamikaze” pilots and the defending forces on the islands of Iwo-jima and Okinawa who fought to the last man. In March 1945, Tokyo was in ashes, and a hundred thousand were dead following three days of fire bombings. The government insisted that the emperor system remain inviolate when they put down arms, but no such assurances were offered in July 1945 when the Allies called for Japan’s unconditional surrender in the Potsdam Declaration. Japan failed to respond, providing the Allies with the excuse they needed to drop an atomic bomb on Hiroshima on August 6. Two days later, the USSR declared war on Japan, and the next day, August 9, the second A-bomb exploded over Nagasaki.

With millions homeless and starving, and the country brought to its knees, it was a breathtaking understatement for Emperor Hirohito to broadcast, on August 15, 1945, that the war had “developed not necessarily to Japan’s advantage”. For his subjects, gathered at wireless sets around the country, the realization of defeat was tempered by their amazement at hearing, for the first time, the voice of a living god.

The American occupation

Never having been occupied by a foreign power, Japan little knew what to expect from the arrival of the “American Shogun” General Douglas MacArthur, designated the Supreme Commander for the Allied Powers (SCAP). Some five hundred soldiers committed suicide, but for the rest of the population the occupation was a welcome relief from the privations of war and an opportunity to start again. MacArthur wasted no time in instituting political and social reform. The country was demilitarized, the bureaucracy purged of military supporters, and war crimes trials were held, resulting in seven hangings, including that of the ex-prime minister, Tōjō Hideki. The emperor, whose support for the new regime was seen as crucial, was spared, although he had to publicly renounce his divinity to become a symbolic head of state.

In 1946, the Americans took a week to draft a new constitution, which proclaimed that sovereignty resided in the Japanese people, and contained the unique provision renouncing war and “the threat or use of force as a means of settling international disputes”. Land and education reforms followed.

The peace treaty, signed in San Francisco on September 8, 1951, resolved all issues with the Allies, except that the USSR refused to sign. The outbreak of the Korean War in 1950 gave a much-needed boost to Japan’s economy, as the country became an important supplier to the US forces.

The occupation officially ended on April 28, 1952, but with the Korean War continuing and the Treaty of Mutual Cooperation and Security guaranteeing the US the right to maintain bases on Japanese soil, a strong American presence remained. The island of Okinawa was returned to Japan in 1972, but a large American military presence remains there to this day.

The 1960s economic miracle

In 1955, the Democratic and the (conservative) Liberal parties joined forces to form the Liberal Democratic Party (LDP), a coalition of factions that governed Japan uninterruptedly for close to the next forty years, creating stable political conditions for an incredible economic recovery. The term “Japan, Inc.” was coined to show the close cooperation that developed among government, bureaucracy and business.

In 1959, Crown Prince Akihito married Shōda Michiko, a commoner he had met while playing tennis at the summer resort of Karuizawa. In 1964, Japan joined the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), inaugurated the high-speed bullet train, or shinkansen, and hosted the Summer Olympic Games.

During the 1960s, Japanese exports grew twice as fast as world trade, while Japan protected its home markets by subjecting imports to quotas, a mass of regulations, or outright bans. Yet rapid industrialization physically scarred the country, and pollution wrecked lives. In 1971, Tokyo’s metropolitan government officially declared that the capital’s residents breathed polluted air, drank contaminated water, and were “subjected to noise levels that strain the nerves.”

By the 1970s, the ingrained corruption festering at the heart of Japanese politics was also becoming clear. The conservative LDP had continued to hold power mainly by entering into cosy financial relationships with supporters in industry and commerce. Prime Minister Tanaka Kakuei, a self-made politician from Niigata, had already attracted criticism for pushing through the needless construction of a shinkansen line to his home town, when his abuse of party funds in the Upper House elections of July 1974 caused fellow LDP grandees to quit the Cabinet in protest. Tanaka rode the scandal out, but couldn’t survive the bribery charges, brought in February 1976, in connection with the purchase of aircraft from America’s Lockheed Corporation.

The bubble economy

As the economy continued to grow in the 1980s, Japan’s huge balance of payments surplus and restrictive trade practices set it at odds with the international community, and particularly the US. The tense situation wasn’t eased as cash-rich Japanese companies snapped up American firms and assets, such as the Rockefeller Center in New York, and the trade surplus with the US totalled over $30 billion. This overseas spending spree was made possible by what would later be known as the bubble economy – a period when low interest rates fuelled booming land prices and a runaway stock market. The Tokyo Stock Exchange became the largest in the world, and by late 1987 the market value of Japan’s land area came to almost three times that of the United States. Weak opposition parties and a continually rising standard of living across the country allowed the LDP to hold on to power, despite factional infighting within the party.

The Heisei period

When Emperor Hirohito died in January 1989, it wasn’t just the Shōwa period coming to an end: the overheated bubble economy had also reached bursting point. The new Heisei (Accomplished Peace) period started, and Emperor Akihito took the throne in November 1990. In 1993, Crown Prince Naruhito married Owada Masako, a high-flying career diplomat. In the same year, a successful no-confidence motion led to a hasty general election, with the result that the overall balance of power passed to a coalition of opposition parties, who formed the first non-LDP government in 38 years. The following year, the LDP was forced to form a coalition government with their rivals, the Japan Socialist Party. Finally, after a series of party realignments, the LDP managed to regain control with the assistance of coalition partners. In the meantime, the collapse of the bubble in both the stock market and real estate led to a period of economic stagnation and deflation lasting more than a decade.

The government earned much ignominy for its botched response to the massive Great Hanshin Earthquake of January 1995, which devastated Kōbe. Offers of foreign help were initially rebuffed, and the local yakuza (criminal gangs) further shamed the government by organizing food supplies to the thousands of homeless. The nation’s self-confidence took a further battering two months later when members of a religious cult, Aum Shinrikyō, killed twelve people and poisoned a further 5500 in a nerve gas attack on the Tokyo subway.

In 1996, the LDP returned to full power, under the leadership of former tough-talking trade negotiator Hashimoto Ryūtarō, but economic woes continued. The official announcement of recession in June 1998, coupled with the plummeting value of the yen and rising unemployment, saw the LDP take a drubbing in the July 1998 upper-house elections. Hashimoto resigned and was replaced by the genial but lacklustre Obuchi Keizō. A major nuclear accident in September caused pause for thought, but no cancellation of Japan’s increased reliance on this form of energy.

LDP defeated

Much hope for positive change was placed on reform-minded Koizumi Jun’ichirō, who became prime minister in April 2001. Exports began to recover in 2003, and the stock market headed for heights last seen in the 1980s, helping Koizumi win two general elections for the LDP. However, when he stepped down as prime minister in 2006, Koizumi’s reputation as a maverick reformer was undermined by the fact that he had ultimately been unable to push through many structural changes to Japan’s system of government and economy. He’d also angered pacifists at home by deploying Self-Defense Force troops in Iraq and – much to the ire of China and South Korea – continuing to visit Tokyo’s controversial Yasukuni shrine that honours the nation’s war dead.

Koizumi’s successors didn’t fare much better, and as Japan’s economy was battered by the global financial crisis of 2008, voters signalled that they had finally had their fill of the LDP. After a nearly unbroken run of 54 years in power, the party lost almost two-thirds of its seats in the Diet’s lower house in the general election of 2009. The LDP was replaced by the Democratic Party of Japan (DPJ), with Hatoyama Yukio as prime minister. The euphoria over this major political change quickly evaporated in 2010 when a series of events dented national pride. The national airline JAL declared bankruptcy, and Toyota was forced to recall millions of its cars from around the world in the light of possible product faults. In the political arena, too, the DPJ fumbled, and following more of the usual funding scandals and the breaking of a campaign promise to close a military base on the island of Okinawa, Hatoyama was forced to resign. His replacement, Kan Naoto – Japan’s fifth prime minister in three years – saw his party lose badly in the upper-house elections in July 2010. Voters had been turned off by Kan’s call for a sales tax hike to help deal with the nation’s public debt, estimated to be twice the size of Japan’s US$5 trillion economy. Kan raised the ire of right-wingers a month later, when his government issued an apology to Korea on the centenary of Japan’s annexation of their country and, along with his Cabinet, refrained from visiting Yasukuni shrine.

Tōhoku earthquake

On March 11, 2011 a magnitude nine earthquake ripped up from the seabed, its epicentre 70km east of Tōhoku’s Oshika Peninsula. The subsequent destruction wrought by one of the most powerful seismic events ever to hit Japan, and the ensuing tsunami that smashed into the coast, left the country reeling under the weight of over 15,883 confirmed deaths, 6150 injured and 2651 missing people. Entire towns were swept away, and millions more households were left without electricity and water. Wrecked highways, railways and airports hampered the immediate relief efforts, while the damaged Fukushima nuclear plant, 200km north of Tokyo, appeared to be heading for meltdown, necessitating the government to call a nuclear emergency and evacuate 140,000 people living within 20km of the facility.

At a televised news conference three days after the quake, Prime Minister Kan acknowledged the crisis as “the toughest and the most difficult” for Japan since the end of World War II, and called on the country’s stunned but typically stoical and quietly heroic population to pull together and jointly shoulder the necessary sacrifices. On top of the financial toll, estimated to be in the range of ¥25 trillion (US$300 billion), there was the immediate effect of the need to assist some 300,000 refugees and a steep decline in electricity generation, leading to rolling blackouts throughout 2011. Reflecting the anxious mood of the population, the prime minister adopted an anti-nuclear stance, closing down the ageing Hamaoka nuclear power plant, 200km southwest of Tokyo, and saying he would freeze plans to build new reactors. However, facing mounting public dissatisfaction at his government’s handling of the crisis, he was forced to resign, and at the end of August 2011 was replaced by Noda Yoshihiko, the country’s sixth prime minister in five years.

Recent developments

In the lower-house election held in December 2012, the LDP made a strong comeback, and the party’s head, Abe Shinzō, became prime minister for the second time (having previously held office in 2006–7). He carried out measures to stimulate the economy and led his party to another victory in the upper-house election in July 2013. Later in September, the International Olympic Committee chose Tokyo as the site of the 2020 Olympic Games, which was a cause for national celebrations. However, the preparations have been mired in controversy with accusations of bribery and overspending, and allegations that funds allocated for rebuilding in the devastated Tōhoku region have been diverted to the construction of Olympic facilities in Tokyo.

JAPANESE–KOREAN RELATIONS

For centuries, Japan has had close links with Korea, and a significant number of Japan’s ruling class – including the imperial family – are of Korean heritage. Despite this, relations between the two countries have frequently been far from neighbourly. Toyotomi Hideyoshi led two unsuccessful invasions of the peninsula in the late sixteenth century, and in 1910 Japan annexed Korea. Japan’s harsh colonial rule has impacted on relations with its neighbour ever since.

The successful co-hosting of the 2002 World Cup and a Japanese taste for South Korea’s soap operas, pop music and spicy food have helped mend relations with its near neighbour. There have also been several official apologies for Japan’s colonial rule of the peninsula. In 2015, the Abe government negotiated an agreement and reparations regarding the “comfort women” issue and pledged 1 billion yen to the care of surviving Korean sex slaves. However, in early 2017 the agreement seemed in jeopardy after the erection of commemorative “comfort women” statues in South Korea and overseas, at which the Japanese government has protested.

Relations with North Korea remain decidedly frosty. In 2002, after decades of denials, North Korea came clean about how it had abducted thirteen Japanese citizens in the 1970s and 1980s and forced them to train North Korean spies in Japanese language and culture. North Korea’s nuclear weapons ambitions don’t help either, especially as the rogue state keeps launching test missiles in Japan’s direction.

In 2015, Abe and the ruling party rammed through new security legislation in the Diet amending Japan’s “peace” constitution and allow for the Self-Defense Forces to be more active on overseas missions. This sparked some of the largest political protests seen in post-war Japan. The new laws were enacted in 2016, angering China and South Korea, and bringing about claims that Abe’s agenda is to remilitarize Japan. Meanwhile, the government has also followed through with attempts to restart many of the nation’s ageing nuclear power plants – beginning with the Sendai nuclear power plant in Kyūshū in 2015, less than 150km away from the epicentre of the powerful 2016 Kumamoto earthquake. The latter half of 2016 saw some unexpected political developments – the citizens of Tokyo elected their first female governor, Koike Yuriko, an Arabic-speaking former TV announcer, and the main opposition Democratic Party of Japan elected Murata Renho as their first female leader. Even more significantly, Emperor Akihito expressed his wish to retire due to ill health despite the fact that abdication is not constitutionally possible. A government committee was convened to find out how to allow his request so that his son, Naruhito, could ascend the Chrysanthemum Throne; the process was finally completed in 2019, starting off the Reiwa era.

As the new imperial era gets underway, Japan still faces many of the same problems, most pertinently the stagnant economy, an ageing population and the ongoing clean-up of the Fukushima nuclear plant – plus, of course, the case of China, Japan’s huge neighbour, growing ever richer, and increasingly militaristic.

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Religion

Japan’s indigenous religion is Shintō, and all Japanese belong to it by default. About half the population are also practising Buddhists and around one million are Christian. Combining religions may seem odd, but a mixture of philosophy, politics and a bit of creative interpretation has, over time, enabled this to happen.

It has helped that Shintō does not possess one all-powerful deity, sacred scriptures or a particular philosophy or moral code. Followers live their lives according to the way or mind of the kami (gods), who favour harmony and cooperation. In this way, Shintō tolerates its worshippers following other religions, and it’s a fairly easy step to combine Shintō’s nature worship with the worship of an almighty deity, such as that of Christianity, or with the philosophical moral code of Buddhism.

Religious festivals are common, and many Shintō customs are still manifest in everyday Japanese life, from marriage ceremonies to purifying building plots and new cars. Nevertheless, few Japanese today are aware of anything other than the basic tenets of either Shintō or Buddhism, and many would not consider themselves “religious” as such.

Shintō

Shintō, or “the way of the gods”, only received its name in the sixth century to distinguish it from the newly arrived Buddhism. Gods are felt to be present in natural phenomena – mountains, for example, or trees, waterfalls, strangely shaped rocks and even in sounds. But Shintō is more than just a nature-worshipping faith; it is an amalgam of attitudes, ideas and ways of doing things that, over two thousand years, has become an integral part of what it is to be Japanese.

Shintō shrines

Shintō shrines are called jinja (kami-dwelling), although you will also see the suffixes -jingū and -gū. These terms, and the torii, are the easiest ways to distinguish between Shintō shrines and Buddhist temples. The shrine provides a dwelling for the kami, who are felt to be present in the surrounding nature, and it is also a place to serve and worship them. Though there are many styles of shrine architecture, they are traditionally built from unpainted cypress wood with a grass-thatch roof. The best examples of such traditional architecture are the Grand Shrine of Ise, Izumo Taisha (near Matsue) and Tokyo’s Meiji-jingū. Later designs show Chinese or Korean influences, such as the use of red and white paint or other ornamentation.

The torii marks the gateway between the secular and the spiritual world. Traditionally, these were plain and simple wooden constructions consisting of two upright pillars and two crossbeams. Gradually, various styles, such as the distinctive red paint, evolved on the same basic design until there were over twenty different types of torii. Nowadays, they are also made of stone, metal and concrete, in which case they tend to remain unpainted.

Inside the compound, you often find pairs of human or animal statues on the approach to the shrine building: austere dignitaries in ancient court costume laden with weapons are the traditional Japanese guardians, though you’ll also find lion-dogs (koma-inu), or large, ferocious-looking Niō, the wooden guardians that usually guard the gates of Buddhist temples. Others may be animal-messengers of the kami, such as the fox-messenger of Inari, the deity of good harvests.

Somewhere in the compound, you’ll often see a sacred tree, denoted by a twisted straw rope, shimenawa, sporting zigzags of white paper tied around it. In the past, these trees were believed to be the special abode of some kami. Now they’re just an expression of divine consciousness which, like other aspects of the surrounding nature, helps to bring people’s minds out of the mundane world and enter into that of the kami.

STATE SHINTŌ

Throughout most of Japanese history, Shintō did not play a particularly important role in state politics. This all changed, however, after the Meiji Restoration of 1868, when Shintō was declared the national faith, largely to re-establish the cult of the emperor. Most Buddhist elements were removed from Shintō shrines and destroyed, and Buddhism was suppressed. State Shintō ushered in a period of extreme nationalism that lasted from around 1890 to 1945. During this period, Japan’s mythological origins were taught as historical fact and people were encouraged to believe that all Japanese were descended from the imperial line. At the same time, the traditional values of bushidō were promoted as desirable personal qualities. After World War II, Emperor Hirohito was forced to renounce his divinity, becoming a merely titular head of state, and the State branch of Shintō was abolished, returning freedom of religion to Japan.

Finally, you come to the shrine building itself. At the entrance, there’s a slotted box for donations and a rope with a bell or gong at the top. Some say the bell is rung as a purification rite to ward off evil spirits, others that it’s to attract the kami’s attention. You’ll also notice another shimenawa delineating the kami’s sacred dwelling place. Inside each shrine, there’s an inner chamber containing the shintai (divine body). This is a sacred object which symbolizes the presence of the kami and is kept under lock and key – if ever seen, it loses its religious power.

A large shrine will also comprise many other buildings, such as subordinate shrines, an oratory, ablution pavilion, offering hall, shrine office and shop, priests’ living quarters, treasure house and sometimes even a platform for sacred dances, a nō drama stage or a sumo arena. In some cases, there will be no shrine building as such, but simply a torii and a straw rope around a tree or rock to indicate a kami’s dwelling place.

Visiting a shrine

When visiting a shrine, try to fulfil at least three of the four elements of worship. Of these, purification is perhaps the most important, as it indicates respect for the kami. At the ablution pavilion (a water trough near the entrance), ladle some water over your fingertips and then pour a little into your cupped hand and rinse your mouth with it; afterwards, spit the water out into the gutter below. Now purified, proceed to the shrine itself and the offering. This normally consists of throwing a coin in the box – a five- or fifty-yen coin (the ones with holes in the middle) is considered luckiest – though a special service warrants a larger sum wrapped in formal paper. Depending on the occasion, food, drink, material goods or even sacred dances (kagura, performed by female shrine attendants) or sumo contests are offered to the kami.

The third element is prayer. Pull the rope to ring the bell, step back, bow twice and clap twice. Pray quietly, then bow again. The final element of worship is the sacred feast, which usually only follows a special service or a festival. It sometimes takes the form of consuming the food or drink offered to the kami – once the kami’s had its symbolic share.

At the shrine shop you can buy charms (omamori) against all manner of ills, fortune papers (omikuji), which people then twist round tree branches to make them come true, and wooden votive tablets (ema) – write your wishes on the tablet and tie it up alongside the others.

All shrines have at least one annual festival, during which the kami is symbolically transferred from the inner chamber to an ornate palanquin or portable shrine, called a mikoshi. This is its temporary home while young men hurtle around the local area with it so that the kami can bless the homes of the faithful. The passion with which they run, turning it this way and that, jostling it up and down shouting “wasshoi, wasshoi”, has to be seen to be believed, especially in rural towns where festivals are usually conducted with more gusto. All this frantic action is said to make the kami happy, and it is highly contagious: long after the palanquin has returned to the shrine the merriment continues with the help of copious amounts of alcohol.

Buddhism

Buddhism, which originated in India, was introduced to Japan from China and Korea in the mid-sixth century. As with many things, Japan adapted this import to suit its own culture and values. The Buddha was accepted as a kami and, over the years, certain religious aspects were dropped or played down, for example celibacy and the emphasis on private contemplation.

But Buddhism did not travel alone to Japan; it brought with it Chinese culture. Over the next two centuries, monks, artists and scholars went to China to study religion, art, music, literature and politics, all of which brought great advances to Japanese culture. As a result, Buddhism became embroiled in the political struggles of the Nara and Heian eras, when weak emperors used Buddhist and Chinese culture to enhance their own power and level of sophistication and to reduce the influence of their Shintōist rivals. Buddhist temples were often built next to Shintō shrines, and statues and regalia placed on Shintō altars to help raise the kami to the level of the Buddha. Eventually, some kami became the guardians of temples, while the Buddha was regarded as the prime spiritual being.

Up until the end of the twelfth century, Japanese Buddhism was largely restricted to a small, generally aristocratic minority. However, at this time the dominant sect, Tendai, split into various new sects, notably Jōdo, Jōdo Shinshū, Nichiren and Zen Buddhism. The first two – simple forms of the faith – enabled Buddhism to evolve from a religion of the elite to one which also appealed to the population en masse. The Nichiren sect had a more scholastic approach, while Zen’s concern for ritual, form and practice attracted the samurai classes and had a great influence on Japan’s traditional arts. Almost all contemporary Japanese Buddhism developed from these sects, which are still very much in existence today.

Buddhist temples and worship

As with Shintō shrines, Buddhist temples (called -tera, -dera or -ji) come in many different styles, depending on the sect and the date they were built, but the foremost architectural influences are Chinese and Korean. The temple’s main hall (the kon-dō or hon-dō) is where you will find the principal image of the Buddha, and a table for offerings. Sometimes the entry gate (San-mon) is as imposing as the temple itself, consisting of a two-storey wooden structure with perhaps a pair of brightly coloured, fearsome guardians called Niō, or Kongō Rikishi. Despite their looks, Niō are actually quite good-natured – except to evil spirits.

KNOW YOUR FOLK GODS

Adding spice to the Japanese religious pot is a legion of folk gods, guardians and demons. The ones to have on your side are the Seven Lucky Gods (Shichi Fuku-jin), often seen sailing in a boat on New Year greetings cards to wish good fortune for the coming year. Of these, the best-loved are Ebisu, the god of prosperity, identified by his fishing rod and sea bream; Daikoku, the god of wealth, who carries a treasure-sack over one shoulder and a lucky hammer; the squat Fukurokuju, god of longevity, marked by a bald, egg-shaped head; while the jovial god of happiness, Hotei, sports a generous belly and a beaming smile.

Characters to avoid, on the other hand, are the oni, a general term for demons and ogres, though oni aren’t always bad. Tengu are mischievous mountain goblins with red faces and very long noses, while kappa are a bit like small trolls and live under bridges. If anything goes missing while you’re hiking, you can probably blame one of these, as they both like to steal things. If it’s your liver that’s missing, however, it will definitely be a kappa; he likes to extract them from people’s bodies through the anus, so watch out.

SŌKA GAKKAI

Several new religions appeared in Japan during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, many of them offshoots of Shintō or Nichiren Buddhism. The most successful has been Sōka Gakkai (Value Creation Society), founded in 1930 by schoolteacher Makiguchi Tsunesaburō, who emphasized the importance of educational philosophy alongside the day-to-day benefits of religion. With its proselytizing mission and broad appeal to people of all ages and classes, Sōka Gakkai International ( sgi.org) now claims around twelve million members. The movement also endorses the political party New Kōmeitō ( www.komei.or.jp).

Some temples also have a pagoda in their compound – they are Chinese versions of stupas, the Indian structures built to enshrine a relic of the Buddha, and were once the main focus of Buddhist worship. Depending on the temple’s size, you might also see other buildings such as a study hall (kō-dō), scripture or treasure houses and living quarters. Zen temples are also famous for their stunningly beautiful rock and landscape gardens, which are designed to aid meditation. The most important occasion in Japan’s Buddhist calendar is Obon, in mid-August, when spirits return to earth and families traditionally gather to welcome them back to the ancestral home. Ohigan, which falls on the spring and autumn equinoxes (usually March 21 and Sept 23), is again a time to visit ancestors’ graves. But probably the biggest celebration is Shōgatsu (New Year), though it’s as much a Shintō event as a Buddhist one.

Christianity

Though churches can be found even in small rural towns, Christians represent less than one percent of Japan’s population. The religion arrived in Japan with the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier in 1549. Initially, the local daimyō were eager to convert, largely in order to acquire firearms and other advanced European technologies, while the poor were attracted to the message of equality and social programmes which helped raise their standard of living.

The port of Nagasaki soon became a centre of Jesuit missionary activity, from where Catholicism spread rapidly throughout Kyūshū. Converts were tolerated, but by the late sixteenth century the authorities considered that the Christian merchants’ increasing stranglehold on trade, coupled with a growing influence in secular affairs, was beginning to pose a threat. Persecution began in 1587. Suspected Christians were forced to trample on pictures of Christ or the Virgin Mary to prove their innocence. If they refused, they were tortured, burnt at the stake or thrown into boiling sulphur; over three thousand Japanese converts were martyred between 1597 and 1660.

Following the Battle of Shimabara of 1637, Christianity was forbidden in Japan up until the late nineteenth century. Amazingly, the religion endured, and when foreign missionaries again appeared in Nagasaki in the mid-1860s, they were astonished to discover some twenty thousand “hidden Christians”. Since then, around 250 Japanese martyrs have either been recognized as saints or beatified by the Catholic Church, including Nagasaki’s 26 martyrs.

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Japanese arts

One of the joys of visiting Japan is experiencing the ordinary ways in which the Japanese aesthetic enters into everyday life. The presentation of food, a window display or the simplest flower arrangement can convey, beyond the walls of any museum or gallery, the essential nature of Japanese art.

Periods of aristocratic rule, military supremacy and merchant wealth have all left their mark on Japanese arts, building on a rich legacy of religious art, folk traditions and the assimilated cultural influences of China and Korea. More recently, the West became a model for artists seeking to join the ranks of the avant-garde. Today, Japanese artists both draw on traditional sources and take their place among international trends.

Spanning the centuries is a love of nature, respect for the highest standards of craftsmanship and the potential for finding beauty in the simplest of things. These qualities pervade the visual arts of Japan but are also reflected in aspects of the performing arts, where the actor’s craft, costume and make-up combine with the stage setting to unique dramatic effect. The official designation of valued objects and individuals as National Treasures and Living National Treasures acknowledges the extent to which the arts and artists of Japan are revered.

The religious influence

Shintō and Buddhism, Japan’s two core religions, have both made vital contributions to its arts. Shintō’s influence is extremely subtle, but apparent in the Japanese love of simplicity, understatement and a deep affinity with the natural environment. The plain wooden surfaces of Shintō shrines, for example, together with their human scale, are reflected in a native approach to architecture in which buildings strive to be in harmony with their surroundings (for more about Shintō shrines).

Some of Japan’s earliest Buddhist sculptures can be found at Hōryū-ji, near Nara, and take their inspiration from Chinese and Korean sculpture of an earlier period. The temple’s bronze Shaka (the Historical Buddha) Triad by Tori Bushii, a Korean–Chinese immigrant, dates back to 623 and reflects the stiff frontal poses, archaic smiles and waterfall drapery patterns of fourth-century Chinese sculpture. At the same time, Hōryū-ji’s standing wooden Kudara Kannon, depicting the most compassionate of the bodhisattvas, is delicately and sensitively carved to emphasize its spirituality.

During the early years of Buddhism in Japan and the periods of closest contact with China (the seventh to tenth centuries), Japanese styles of Buddhist art mimicked those current in China or from its recent past. However, a gradual process of assimilation took place in both painting and sculpture until the Kamakura period, when the adaptation of a distinctly Japanese model can be observed in Buddhist art.

The Heian period

In 898, the Japanese stopped sending embassies to the Chinese T’ang court, ending centuries of close relations with China. Gradually, the cloistered and leisured lifestyle of the Heian-period (794–1185) aristocracy spawned a uniquely Japanese cultural identity.

Court life in Heian Japan revolved around worldly pleasures and aesthetic pastimes, and the period is renowned for its artistic and cultural innovation. Kana, or the phonetic syllabary, was developed and employed in the composition of one of Japan’s greatest literary masterpieces, The Tale of Genji, or Genji Monogatari. Lady Murasaki’s portrayal of the Heian-court nobility eloquently described the artistic pursuits which dominated their daily life – poetry competitions, the arts of painting, calligraphy and gardening and the elaborate rituals of court dress.

THE WAY OF THE FLOWER

Ikebana, or the art of flower arranging, has its roots in ancient Shintō rituals and Buddhist practice. The original emphasis was on creating flower displays that imitated their natural state. This gradually evolved into using just three leading sprays to represent heaven, earth and humankind, which are arranged to express the harmonious balance of these elements, with the use of empty space being as crucial as the sprays themselves. The container, setting and season influence the choice of materials, which can range from bare branches and withered leaves to fruits, moss and grass.

The art of ikebana reached its peak in the sixteenth century, largely on the coat tails of the tea ceremony in which the only decoration in the room is an ikebana display or hanging scroll. As it became more widely practised, several distinct styles evolved, broadly divided into the self-explanatory shōka (living flowers), the formal rikka (standing flowers), moribana (heaped flowers), and the more naturalistic nage-ire (thrown in). Each of these is further subdivided into different schools, dominated nowadays by Ikenobō ( ikenobo.jp), Ohara ( ohararyu.or.jp) and Sōgetsu ( sogetsu.or.jp). To find out more, contact Ikebana International ( ikebanahq.org), an umbrella organization with branches in sixty countries.

A new painting format, the emaki (“picture scroll”), also evolved during the Heian period. Emaki depicted romances, legends and historical tales, of which the most famous is an illustrated edition of The Tale of Genji, published around 1130. The painting technique used, known as Yamato-e, employs flat blocks of colour with a strong linear focus and a unique boldness of style. The decorative arts reached a similarly high level of sophistication. Inlaid lacquerware, using the maki-e technique (sprinkling the surface with gold or silver powder) and finely crafted bronze mirrors, employed surface designs to equally dramatic effect.

The lavishness of Heian taste is reflected in Buddhist painting and sculpture of this period. New sects of Buddhism gave rise to the diagrammatic mandalas, schematic depictions of the Buddhist universe, while religious sculpture became more graceful and sensual, with gilded, delicately featured deities marking the transition to an aristocratic form of Buddhist art.

Samurai culture

The establishment of the Kamakura Shogunate in 1185 generated an alternative artistic taste more in keeping with the simplicity, discipline and rigour of the military lifestyle. This new realism made itself felt in the portrait painting and picture scrolls of the Kamakura era (1185–1333), most graphically in the Handbook on Hungry Ghosts, now in Tokyo’s National Museum. Highly individualized portraits of military figures and Zen masters became popular. Kamakura sculpture similarly combined a high degree of realism with a dynamic energy. The two giant guardian figures at Nara’s Tōdai-ji, fashioned by the sculptors Unkei and Kaikei in 1203, are outstanding examples of this vigorous new style.

However, samurai culture had a more direct impact on the development of the decorative arts. By the Edo period (1600–1868), Edo and Osaka had become leading centres of sword-making, where swordsmiths were noted for their skill in forging and for the meticulousness of finish which they applied to the blades. Through the peaceful years of the Edo era, however, sword fittings gradually came to be more decorative than functional.

PICTURES OF THE FLOATING WORLD

During the Edo era, the lively entertainment districts of Edo, Osaka and Kyoto, with their brothels, teahouses and kabuki theatres, provided inspiration for artists. This new genre of painting, ukiyo-e, or “pictures of the floating world”, devoted itself to the hedonistic pastimes of the new rich. By the early eighteenth century, ukiyo-e were most commonly produced as hand-coloured woodblock prints which became more sophisticated in their subtle use of line and colour as mass-printing techniques developed.

Late eighteenth-century artists such as Harunobu, Utamaro and Sharaku portrayed famous beauties of the day and kabuki actors in dramatic poses. Explicitly erotic prints known as shunga (spring pictures) were also big sellers, as were humorous scenes of daily life (manga), the forerunners of today’s comics. Hokusai (1760–1849), perhaps the most internationally famous ukiyo-e artist, was originally known for his manga, but went on to create one of the most enduring images of Japan, The Great Wave, as part of his series Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji. Followed by the equally popular Fifty-Three Stages of the Tōkaidō, by Hiroshige (1797–1858), these later landscape pictures were instantly popular at a time when travel was both difficult and restricted.

The arts of Zen

With the spread of Zen Buddhism in the thirteenth century, Japanese arts acquired a new focus. Meditation is at the centre of Zen practice and many Zen art forms can be seen as vehicles for inward reflection or as visualizations of the sudden and spontaneous nature of enlightenment.

Monochromatic ink painting, known as suiboku-ga or sumi-e, portrayed meditative landscapes and other subjects in a variety of formats including screens, hanging scrolls and hand-scrolls, with a free and expressive style of brushwork that was both speedily and skilfully rendered. Haboku, or “flung-ink” landscapes, took this technique to its logical extreme by building up (barely) recognizable imagery from the arbitrary patterns formed by wet ink splashed onto highly absorbent paper. Sesshū (1420–1506), a Zen priest, was Japan’s foremost practitioner of this technique.

Zen calligraphy similarly can be so expressively rendered as to be almost unreadable except to the practised eye. One of the most striking examples, by the monk Ryōkan Daigu (1757–1831), is a hanging scroll with the intertwined symbols for heaven and earth. These qualities of abstraction and suggestion were also applied to the design of Zen gardens, while meditation techniques spawned the highly ritualized and almost mesmeric tea ceremony.

The Momoyama and Edo periods

Japanese art was most opulent during the Momoyama period (1573–1600). The scale of feudal architecture created a new demand for decorative screen paintings, which were placed on walls, sliding doors (fusuma) and folding screens (byōbu). From the late sixteenth century, the Kyoto-based Kanō School of artists came to dominate official taste. Subjects were mainly drawn from nature and from history and legend, while the extensive use of gold leaf added a shimmering brightness to the dark interior spaces of the great Momoyama castles, palaces and temples. Kanō Eitoku and his grandson, Kanō Tan’yū, were the school’s most famous exponents, and their works can still be seen in Kyoto’s Daitoku-ji and Nijō-jō.

During the Edo period (1600–1868), the arts flourished under the patronage of a newly wealthy merchant class. Artists such as Tawaraya Sōtatsu and Ogata Kōrin stand out for reviving aspects of the Yamato-e tradition and injecting new decorative life into Japanese painting. Sōtatsu’s famous golden screen paintings based on The Tale of Genji dramatically adapt the subject matter and style of Heian-era emaki to this larger format. Kōrin’s most noted works include the “Irises” screens at Tokyo’s Nezu Museum.

The decorative arts reached new heights of elegance and craftsmanship. Varieties of Imari- and Kutani-ware porcelain were made in large quantities for domestic consumption and later for export. Inlaid lacquerware was executed in bold and simple designs. Hon’ami Kōetsu was a leading lacquer artist of the period, as well as a celebrated painter and calligrapher. One of Kōetsu’s most famous lacquer works, an inkstone box in the Tokyo National Museum, reflects these combined talents, with its inlaid-lead bridge and silver calligraphy forming integral parts of the overall design.

Western influences

The period of modernization and westernization which followed the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1867 transformed the face of Japanese visual arts. The opening of the treaty ports furnished a new subject matter for woodblock print artists who produced marvellous portraits of Westerners in Yokohama and other ports. The opening of the first railway, the first spinning factory and many other advances were also recorded for posterity.

In the early years of the Meiji period (1868–1912), traditional Japanese and Chinese styles of painting were rejected in favour of Western styles and techniques. Artists such as Kuroda Seiki and Fujishima Takeji studied in Paris and returned to become leaders of Western-style painting (Yō-ga) in Japan. Realism, Impressionism and other Western art movements were directly transplanted to the Tokyo art scene. More conservative painters, such as Yokoyama Taikan, worked to establish Nihon-ga, a modern style of Japanese painting, drawing on a mixture of Chinese, Japanese and Western techniques.

Western influence on the arts expanded greatly in the Taishō period (1912–26) with sculpture, as well as painting, closely following current trends. In the postwar period, Japanese artists looked again to Europe and America but more selectively took their inspiration from a range of avant-garde developments in the West.

Contemporary visual art

Visual art in Japan today blends Japanese and international currents, which at best interact to create innovative new styles. A prime example of such vigorous cross-fertilization is the development of manga as a sophisticated, internationally popular art form in which sources of tradition can no longer be identified purely with the East or the West.

MINGEI: THE FOLK CRAFT TRADITION

Japanese folk crafts, mingei, delight in the simplicity and utilitarian aspects of ordinary everyday objects. Mingei really is “people’s art”, the works of craftsmen from all regions of Japan that are revered for their natural and unpretentious qualities.

While Japanese folk crafts flourished during the Edo period, the mass production techniques of the machine age led to a fall in the quality of textiles, ceramics, lacquer and other craft forms. The art critic and philosopher Yanagi Sōetsu (1889–1961) worked from the 1920s to stem this tide and to preserve the craft products of the pre-industrial age. Yanagi established the Mingei-kan, or Japan Folk Crafts Museum, in Tokyo in 1936. But the revival of the mingei tradition also celebrated works by living artist-craftsmen, as well as regional differences in style and technique. The potters Hamada Shōji, Kawai Kanjirō and the Englishman BernardLeach were most famously associated with the mingei movement, as was the woodblock artist, Munakata Shikō, and the textile designer Serizawa Kiesuke.

A wide range of traditional handicrafts, including pottery, lacquerware, wood, bamboo and handmade paper products, is still being produced today all over Japan. Yūzen-style kimono dyeing and kumihimo braid craft are associated with Kyoto; shuri weaving techniques with Okinawa; Hakata ningyō, or earthenware dolls, with Fukuoka; and Kumano brushes with Hiroshima.

The international success of artists such as Nara Yoshitomo, Murakami Takashi and Yayoi Kusama has shaped the world’s perception of Japanese contemporary art in recent years. Talented artists who have also cemented their reputations in recent years include Chiho Aoshima, a Superflat protege known for her fantastical urban landscapes (and, less interestingly, figures); Chiharu Shiota, a performance/installation artist who represented Japan at the 2015 Venice Biennale and then wowed Berlin Art Week the next year; Makoto Aida, who welds together manga, painting, video, sculpture, photography and more; Jun Inoue, a street artist who brings elements of ancient calligraphy to his graffiti; and Tabaimo, who created interesting video installations reflecting modern life, but has more recently focused on ghostly creations using a printing technique called monotyping. Notable art collectives include the occasionally controversial Chim Pom, led in a way by the aforementioned Makoto Aida; and the youthful teamLAB, a savvy business operation who were behind the creation of Tokyo’s phenomenally successful Mori Digital Art Museum.

Manga

The word manga (meaning “whimsical pictures”) is attributed to the great nineteenth-century artist Hokusai. Today, it covers comics, graphic novels, cartoon strips and even creations such as the character Hello Kitty. Japan’s love of images is ingrained in the culture; ukiyo-e, woodblock prints, many of which depict lively scenes of daily life and imaginative renditions of fables and fantasy, were as popular two centuries ago as manga is today. Indeed, Hokusai’s erotic painting The Dream of the Fisherman’s Wife (1824), which depicts a naked woman being pleasured by a couple of rather randy octopuses, could be straight out of contemporary pornographic manga (hentai).

International reception of the medium can be clouded by the graphic sexual imagery and violence seen in some manga, compounded by the misconception that the subject matter is exclusively limited to sci-fi and fantasy. In reality, manga covers an enormous range of stories, from cooking to politics, and has many genres – for example, manga-shi (magazines) aimed at young people are split into shōjo (girls), shōnen (boys) and seinen (youth) categories.

Performing arts

The traditional theatre arts of nō (sometimes written Noh in English), bunraku, kabuki and buyō evolved in the context of broader cultural developments during different periods of Japan’s history. The plays of each art form often draw on similar plots, but their presentation couldn’t be more different.

Nō

The oldest – and most difficult to appreciate – type of Japanese theatre is nō. This form of masked drama has its roots in sacred Shintō dances, but was formalized six hundred years ago under the patronage of the Ashikaga shoguns and the aesthetic influence of Zen. The bare wooden stage with its painted backdrop of an ancient pine tree, the actors’ stylized robes and the fixed expressions of the finely crafted masks create an atmosphere that is both understated and refined. The dramatic contrasts of stillness and sudden rushes of movement, and of periods of silence punctuated by sound, conjure up the essence of the Zen aesthetic.

The actor’s skill lies in transcending the conventions of archaic language, mask and formalized costume to convey the dramatic tensions inherent in the play. Dance elements and musical effects aid directly in this process and draw on the folk entertainment tradition from which nō is derived.

THE TEZUKA EFFECT

Many of anime and manga’s stylistic traits – exaggerated facial features, episodic storytelling and the cinematic quality of presentation – are credited to the seminal manga artist Tezuka Osamu (1928–89), creator of Astro Boy, or Tetsuwan Atomu, as he’s known in Japan. Astro is a boy robot, with rockets for feet and a memory bank of human experiences, who forever ponders his relationship to humans; such philosophical character traits and dark, complex themes are a prominent feature throughout the genre. Tezuka is credited with jump-starting anime in the 1960s, when he turned his comic Astro Boy into a TV series. The flat, two-dimensional look of anime, which is still common today, was a result of the need to keep production budgets low, using fewer images per second.

The comic kyōgen interludes in a nō programme provide light relief. As in the main drama, kyōgen performers are all male and assume a variety of roles, some of which are completely independent of the nō play, while others comment on the development of the main story. The language used is colloquial (though of sixteenth-century origin) and, compared with the esoteric poetry of nō, far more accessible to a contemporary audience.

Kabuki

Colourful, exuberant and full of larger-than-life characters, kabuki is a highly stylized theatrical form which delights in flamboyant gestures and elaborate costumes, make-up and staging effects. While the language may still be incomprehensible to foreigners, the plots themselves deal with easily understood, often tragic themes of love and betrayal, commonly taken from famous historical episodes.

Kabuki originated in the early 1600s as rather risqué dances performed by all-female troupes. The shogun eventually banned women from taking part, because of kabuki’s association with prostitution, but their replacement – young men – were also available to customers as prostitutes. In the end, kabuki actors were predominantly older men, some of whom specialize in performing female roles (onnagata). Kabuki developed as a more serious form of theatre in the late sixteenth century when it was cultivated chiefly by the merchant class. It gave theatrical expression to the vitality of city life and to the class tensions between samurai, merchants and peasants that inform the plots of so many plays. To learn more about kabuki, go to kabuki21.com and kabukiweb.net.

Bunraku

Japan’s puppet theatre, bunraku, developed out of the jōruri storytelling tradition, in which travelling minstrels recited popular tales of famous heroes and legends, accompanied by the biwa (Japanese lute) or shamisen (three-stringed guitar). Adapted to the stage in the early seventeenth century, bunraku made use of stylized puppets, one-half to one-third the size of humans, to enact the various roles. The great Osaka playwright Chikamatsu Monzaemon (1653–1724), often referred to as “the Shakespeare of Japan”, is responsible for around one hundred bunraku plays, many of which are still performed today.

Puppets are worked by three operators, while a chanter, using a varied vocal range, tells the story to the accompaniment of shamisen music. The main puppeteer is in full view of the audience and uses his left hand to manipulate the face and head, with his right controlling the puppet’s right arm. One assistant operates the left arm while another moves the puppet’s legs. The skill of the puppeteers – the result of lengthy apprenticeships – contributes to the high degree of realism in the performance, and the stylized movements can result in great drama. Indeed, kabuki actors employ some puppet-like gestures from bunraku to enhance and enliven their own acting techniques. To learn more about bunraku, go to bunraku.or.jp.

ONLINE RESOURCES FOR THE ARTS

KIE (Kateigaho International Edition) int.kateigaho.com. This biannual magazine covers the range of Japanese arts and culture.

The Performing Arts Network performingarts.jp. Presents the broad range of Japanese performing arts, with a focus on groups and artists active on the international scene.

Tokyo Art Beat tokyoartbeat.com. Excellent bilingual resource listing exhibitions and events in the Tokyo area.

Buyō

Classical Japanese dance is known as buyō, and elements of this art form intersect with other traditional performing arts traditions such as nō and kabuki. Buyō originates from the folk and ritual dances of ancient Japan. It developed into a refined form of dance, to be performed on stage, around the time that kabuki began to flourish in the seventeenth century. Today, there are over two hundred schools of buyō. Dancers usually wear kimono, and as a result their graceful movements are slow and restricted. The geisha of Kyoto continue the Kamigata style of buyō, which they perform throughout the year.

Contemporary theatre and dance

Contemporary Japanese theatre and dance ranges from the all-female musical revues of Takarazuka and serious drama, to the abstract and improvisational dance form of butō (or butoh), which draws on the traditions of kabuki and nō as well as contemporary American dancers such as Martha Graham. Though it remains a marginal art form in Japan, butō’s haunting beauty and eccentric expression has found greater appreciation in Europe and America.

In the 1970s, Hideki Noda became one of the most prominent figures in Japanese contemporary theatre and has since been involved in projects ranging from new kabuki writing and working with his theatre group, Noda Map ( nodamap.com), to forays into opera. Members of the Setagaya Public Theatre have also collaborated with foreign producers on international productions such as a stage adaptation of Haruki Murakami’s collection of short stories, The Elephant Vanishes.

There are hundreds of other theatre groups throughout Japan creating original works. One of the most acclaimed and active both locally and abroad is chelftisch ( chelfitsch.net), the project of Okada Toshiki. The work of auteur/director Tanino Kurō, a specialist in the theatre of the absurd, is also worth looking out for.

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Music

The arrival of eighty Korean musicians in 453 AD and the introduction of Buddhism in the mid-sixth century are key early events in the history of Japanese music. Gagaku (court orchestral music) and religious music survive from this period, and Buddhist chanting, shōmyō, can still be heard in temples today.

Similar to a chamber orchestra, gagaku ensembles include as many as twenty instruments, with flutes, oboes, zithers, lutes, gongs and drums. Gagaku is now played only as bugaku (dance music) or kangen (instrumental music), typically at the imperial court and at larger Shintō shrines and Buddhist temples. Unlike Western classical music, themes aren’t stated and repeated. Instead, the rhythms are based on breathing and the result is a form that sounds sometimes discordant, sometimes meditative.

Distinctive musical styles also developed for the principal theatrical arts: nō, bunraku and kabuki. The sparse music of nō features solo singers, small choruses and an instrumental ensemble of fue (bamboo flute), two hourglass drums and a barrel drum. The shamisen (three-string lute) was added to the flute and drums for bunraku, leading to a more lively and popular musical style.

In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, during Japan’s period of isolation from the outside world, instruments like the koto (a kind of zither) continued to develop a repertoire, as did the shakuhachi bamboo flute. The nagauta shamisen style for kabuki theatre also developed at this time, as did the sankyoku, the typical instrumental ensemble of the age – koto, shamisen, shakuhachi and kokyū (a bowed fiddle).

Min'yō (regional folk music)

Each region of Japan has its own style of min’yō (folk music), the most famous being the instrumental shamisen style from Tsugaru in Tōhoku. Kinoshita Shin’ichi has earned the nickname “the man with the divine hands” for his pioneering Tsugaru shamisen playing, which marries the traditional northern shamisen style of fast plucking with jazz and rock. Kinoshita played a major part in the shin-min’yō (new min’yō) wave led by singer Ito Takio, well known for his passionate singing style and willingness to experiment. Since the millennium, Tsugaru shamisen has been experiencing a boom in popularity, helped by stand-out performers Agatsuma Hiromitsu ( agatsuma.tv) and the Yoshida Brothers.

Traditional drumming from Sado-ga-shima has now become famous internationally. Za Ondekoza ( ondekoza.com), the original group of drummers, and its offshoot, Kodō ( kodo.or.jp), are capable of playing very powerful, theatrical gigs using traditional Japanese drums only (from the big daiko to small hand-drums).

At Japan’s northern extremity is the island of Hokkaidō, home to the indigenous Ainu. Their traditional music and instruments, including the skinny string instrument the tonkori and the mukkuri (“Jew’s harp”), have been taken up by Oki Kano (AKA Oki), an Ainu–Japanese musician. Together with his Oki Dub Ainu Band ( tonkori.com), Oki has released several toe-tapping and soulful albums and has played at international music festivals including WOMAD in the UK.

Enka

Described as Nihonjin no kokoro, “the soul of the Japanese”, enka (from enzetsu, “public speech”, and ka, “a song”) are songs about lost love, homesickness or simply drowning the sorrows of a broken heart with sake. Over one hundred years old, and still enormously popular, enka originally was a form of political dissent, disseminated by song sheets. However, in the early twentieth century it became the first style to truly synthesize Western scales and Japanese modes. Shimpei Nakayama and Koga Masao were the trailblazing composers. Koga’s first hit in 1931, Kage Wo Shitaite (Longing For Your Memory), remains a much-loved classic.

BEAUTIFUL SKYLARK

A musical icon, Misora Hibari (“beautiful skylark”) was the undisputed queen of enka. Born Kazue Katō, she made her debut as a singer in 1946, at the tender age of 9, and became an instant hit for her ability to memorize long poems and mimic adult singers. Her powerful, sobbing kobushi vocal technique created a highly charged atmosphere, but she was also talented enough to cover jazz, min’yō, Latin, chanson and torch songs in the thousand recordings and 166 films she made before her untimely death in 1989, aged 52. See misorahibari.com for more information on this Japanese musical legend.

It’s difficult to escape enka. Television specials pump it out, and you’ll hear it in restaurants and bars. And, of course, it received a major boost with the invention of karaoke, which helped to spread the genre’s popularity both with younger Japanese and foreigners.

The classic image is of enka queen Misora Hibari decked out in a kimono, tears streaming down her face as she sobs through Koga’s Kanashii Sake (Sad Sake), with typically understated backing and single-line guitar. Miyako Harumi is also famed for her growling attack and the song Sayonara. Many enka stars have long careers, and veterans like Kitajima Saburō are still going strong today, as are Mori Shin’ichi, Yashiro Aki, Kobayashi Sachiko, Tendo Yoshimi and Itsuki Hiroshi. More recent stars are Hikawa Kiyoshi, known as the prince of enka, and Pittsburgh native Jero, aka Jerome Charles White Jr, whose hip-hop attire gives a contemporary spin to the genre.

Rock and pop classics

By the late 1960s, musicians were starting to create Japanese-language rock. Seminal band Happy End were pioneers. Led by composer Hosono Haruomi (later a founding member of Yellow Magic Orchestra) and lyricist Matsumoto Takashi, the band meshed folk-rock with Japanese lyrics about love and politics. Their song Kaze Wo Atsumete featured on the soundtrack for the film Lost in Translation.

Okinawan musician Kina Shōkichi and his band, named after the traditional Okinawan stir-fry, Champloose ( champloose.co.jp), gained acclaim in the 1970s, particularly with his song Haisai Oji-san (Hey, Man), which became so famous that it is used today as a drill song for high-school baseball games. Southern All Stars ( southernallstars.jp), whose way of singing Japanese as if it were English helped them to become Japan’s biggest-selling band in the late 1980s, were another influential group; they’re still going strong today.

Yellow Magic Orchestra, formed in 1978 by Hosono Haruomi, Sakamoto Ryūchi and Takahashi Yukihiro, were heavily influenced by German technopop band Kraftwerk. Having gone their own ways in the mid-1980s – Sakamoto, in particular, developed a highly successful international career, both as a soloist and as an Oscar-winning film-score composer – the trio reformed in 2007 and still play together today, having become active in the anti-nuclear movement in Japan.

The roots boom

The growing popularity of world music has had a significant effect in Japan. Reggae, for example, was considered “underground” for years, but is now part of the mainstream, as is ska, following the success of the Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra ( tokyoska.net). Latin music has also had a big effect, propelling salsa band Orquesta de la Luz ( laluz.jp) to the top of the Billboard Latin chart in the early 1990s.

The Boom, led by Miyazawa Kazufumi, helped to spawn the Okinawan music boom in 1993 with their single Shima Uta (Island Songs). In the mid-1990s, they experimented with Brazilian music, opening up a new generation’s ears to the South American melodies. In 2006, Miyazawa formed a new band, Ganga Zumba, with Brazilians Marcos Suzano and Fernando Moura, again playing a mix of Brazilian- and Latin-inspired pop.

The most significant development of the 1980s, however, was the rise of roots-influenced bands and singers such as Shang Shang Typhoon ( shangshang.jp), Rinken Band, Nenes and Daiku Tetsuhiro. Inspiration came from both within Japan (Okinawan and local popular culture) and outside (world music).

Foremost among the 1990s wave of bands plundering global music styles was Soul Flower Union (SFU), a seven-member outfit from Osaka led by Nakagawa Takashi. SFU also have an appealing alter ego, Soul Flower Mononoke Summit (SFMU), where the band blends acoustic guitars, Okinawan and chindon (street) music, which advertises products or shops, with drums and various brass instruments. Recent work has included gigs with the respected Irish musician and producer Donal Lunny, who is married to SFU member Itami Hideko.

THE SOUND OF THE DEEP, DEEP SOUTH

Music has been integral to Okinawa’s culture and social life for centuries; it’s said that peasants carried their musical instruments into the rice fields, ready for a jam session after work. The folk tradition is very much alive: in some villages, umui (religious songs) are still sung at festivals to honour ancestors; work songs that reflect communal agriculture techniques can still be heard; and various kinds of group and circle dances, some performed exclusively by women, can be found in the smaller islands.

Popular entertainment is known by the general term zo odori (common dance), though everyone calls these songs shima uta (island songs). The best-known style, one no wedding would be complete without, is called katcharsee. Set to lively rhythms laid down by the sanshin, which plays both melody and rhythm, and various drums, the dance is performed with the upper body motionless and the lower body swaying sensuously, accompanied by graceful hand movements that echo similar dances in Thailand and Indonesia.

The Asian connection can be clearly seen in the history of the sanshin. This three-stringed lute began life in China as the long-necked sanxian and was introduced to Okinawa around 1392. Local materials were quickly exhausted, so that Thai snakeskin was used for the soundbox and Filipino hardwood for the shorter neck of the altered instrument, which became known as the sanshin. Once introduced to mainland Japan, the sanshin became bigger, produced a harder sound and was renamed the shamisen, one of the quintessential Japanese instruments.

A more recent influence on Okinawan music has come via the US military presence. Local musicians started to copy American pop styles in the 1950s, sometimes mixing in folk music. One major star whose music developed in this way was Kina Shōkichi who formed the band Champloose while still at high school, thus opening the way for a new generation of Okinawan rockers, including ex-band members Nagama Takao, famous for his fast-action sanshin playing, and Hirayasu Takashi.

Another legendary Okinawan musician is Sadao China, who records his own solo min’yō, as well as reggae-rock with an Okinawan flavour. As a producer, China brought the all-female group Nenes to international fame; the original four band members have since played with Ry Cooder and Michael Nyman among others. China has a club, Shima Uta Live House, in Naha, which is one of the best places in the islands to see Okinawan roots music. A good blog to find out more on the Okinawan music scene is powerofokinawa.wordpress.com.

JAPAN’S IDOLS

In the Japanese entertainment industry, singers, models and media personalities are referred to as idols. They are overwhelmingly manufactured, whether they be solo or group acts, and controlled by powerful management companies. More important than any recognizable talent is the ability to attract loyal fans who are willing to buy their CDs, DVDs, calendars and other associated merchandise. Maintaining a devoted fan base is key to survival, to the extent that many idols must sign contracts barring them from romantic relationships, so as not to offend their fans and thereby destroy the illusion of intimacy. In 2016, a Japanese court ruled that this condition was a human rights violation.

J-pop

Although Korean pop (K-pop) now shifts a larger number of units across Asia and beyond, Japanese teenagers and young adults – and a substantial number of adherents abroad – remain addicted to J-pop (Japanese pop). Despite its purportedly youthful appeal, some of the biggest stars have been around for decades: Hamasaki Ayumi, commonly known as Ayu, has long been known as the “Empress of J-pop”, even though she’s now in her forties and deaf in one ear; while SMAP, formed in 1991, were Japan’s longest-running “boy band” when they retired at the end of 2016. SMAP member Kimura Takuya remains a huge star, his career continuing with major roles in film and TV dramas, as well as lucrative advertising contracts for a wide range of products.

Super idol groups such as AKB48 ( www.akb48.co.jp), a singing and dancing ensemble with 134 girl members (at the last count) and their own theatre, plus love-balladeers Arashi ( www.j-storm.co.jp), a group of five young men, are incredibly popular both at home and abroad and have active fan groups. Another J-pop sensation is Kyary Pamyu Pamyu ( kyary.asobisystem.com), a singer who has emerged from the Harajuku kawaii fashion scene. Her child-like, super-sweet pop songs – such as Pon Pon Pon and Fashion Monster – have also found an enthusiastic international audience, and she regularly tours in Europe, the Asia-Pacific and North America. Heavy-metal idol group Babymetal ( babymetal.com), consisting of three teenage girls in identical gothic Lolita-style outfits, have had huge success both domestically and internationally, performing at Wembley Arena in 2016.

Other contemporary sounds

Hip hop and rap have been enthusiastically adopted by musicians and spin-masters such as DJ Krush (aka Ishi Hideaki); the trio m-flo ( m-flo.com), whose members collaborated with Kanye West and the Beastie Boys; and rap rock band Dragon Ash ( dragonash.co.jp). Techno DJ Ken Ishii has found an audience outside Japan, too. Many of these artists have been around for quite some time, but more recent superstars with a chance of doing likewise include grime artist Pakin ( facebook.com/pakinorsma), and rapper Yuki Chiba (also known as KOHH; kohh.tokyo), whose lyrics are somewhat edgier than the fake-‘hood approach taken by many Japanese artists, stemming from a genuinely troubled childhood (both of his parents were drug addicts, and one of them committed suicide).

Indie bands and singers have a strong local following, with certain post-rock acts particularly influential abroad (though, unfortunately, not quite as popular with domestic audiences). The main players in the scene were Boredoms, who started as a noise-rock band in 1986, but morphed into more progressive sounds over the decades, and churned out hyper-creative side-acts such as all-female band OOIOO. Also worth mentioning is psychedelic rock guru Kawabata Makoto, frontman of Acid Mothers Temple ( acidmothers.com). Some of their tracks run over an hour in length and he became a star around whom half the scene’s bands and artists orbited (including Afrirampo, who toured with Sonic Youth and played with Yoko Ono).

More appealing to goths, glam-rock and cyberpunk fans are the so-called Visual kei bands such as Dir En Grey, X Japan and Luna Sea.

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The environment

In the words of one of Japan’s leading environmental activists, Yamashita Hirofumi, “Japan’s postwar development has had a disastrous impact on the natural environment.” In the wake of the March 2011 nuclear accident, this statement is truer than ever. There is now increased public debate over Japan’s future energy use, and much concern over the damage which nuclear radiation has caused both humans and the environment. This has gone hand in hand with a growing awareness of the need to safeguard spectacular areas of unspoilt natural beauty that remain, and to ensure that neither the government nor big business can exploit these areas. Japan also stands guilty of over-packaging products and wasteful use of disposable chopsticks, but at the same time, levels of recycling of items such as plastic, paper and metal cans are admirably high.

Fauna and flora

Generally speaking, the fauna and flora of the Japanese archipelago can be divided into three categories: the Southeast Asiatic tropical zone, the Korean and Chinese temperate zone and the Siberian subarctic zone.

The Southeast Asiatic tropical zone extends from Taiwan up into the Ryūkyū island chain (Okinawa). Wildlife typically associated with this zone includes the fruit bat, crested serpent eagle, variable lizard and butterflies of the Danaidae family. Animals that belong to the Korean and Chinese temperate zone inhabit the deciduous forests of Honshū, Shikoku and Kyūshū, the most common of which are the raccoon dog, sika deer and mandarin duck. If you’re lucky, you’ll see the rarer yellow marten, badger and flying squirrel, while in the seas around central Honshū you may also spot sea lions and fur seals. The Siberian subarctic zone covers the coniferous forests of Hokkaidō, inhabited by the brown bear, rabbit-like pika, hazel grouse, common lizard, arctic hare and nine-spined stickleback, among other species.

In addition, the archipelago contains a number of endemic species such as the Japanese macaque, Japanese dormouse, copper pheasant, giant salamander, Pryer’s woodpecker and Amami spiny mouse, all of which are now relatively rare. Japan is also home to a number of “living fossils”, animals whose characteristics differ from more developed species, such as the critically endangered Amami rabbit and Iriomote wild cat (both native to the Ryūkyū Islands), the frilled shark and the horseshoe crab of Sagami Bay, off Kamakura.

You don’t need to get off the beaten track to encounter wildlife in Japan. In urban areas raccoon dogs (tanuki) come out at night to forage for food. These dogs are an integral part of Japanese folklore and are believed to have supernatural powers and cause all sorts of mischief; they are always depicted as big-bellied, with huge testicles and a bottle of sake. Foxes, too, are widespread and were believed to possess people – fox (or inari) shrines are found across the country.

Monkeys are also common in some areas, such as Wakinosawa and Shiga Kōgen, while wild boar occasionally make an appearance in outer urban areas, though fortunately these forbidding-looking creatures avoid human contact and are generally heard but not seen. Kites, cranes, herons, cormorants and migratory seagulls can often be seen around lakes and rivers, while the steamy summer brings an onslaught of insects, none more so than the cicada (semi), whose singing provides a constant background thrum.

LAST CHANCE TO SEE...

According to the Mammal Society of Japan ( mammalogy.jp), over half of the country’s endangered animals are close to extinction. Examples include the Iriomote lynx, endemic to Iriomote-jima, of which probably fewer than a hundred remain, the short-tailed albatross and the Japanese river otter, both of which were once thought to be extinct.

Conservation efforts come in the form of breeding and feeding programmes, habitat improvement and research projects. In an example of Russo–Japanese cooperation, researchers from both countries attached transmitters to fourteen sea eagles and tracked them by satellite to discover their migratory routes and feeding grounds. Unfortunately, however, many such conservation programmes fall far short of their goals, largely due to an ineffective government system.

One programme that has been successful has been that to protect the red-crowned or Japanese crane (tanchō in Japanese). This magnificent, tall-standing bird, highly celebrated in Japan for its grace and beauty and as a symbol of longevity, has benefited from volunteer-based feeding programmes and other conservation measures in its home territory of eastern Hokkaidō.

You also have a very decent chance of seeing snakes in Japan; thankfully, few local species are venomous, though notable exceptions are the various types of habu snake (a type of pit viper) found around Okinawa.

Marine life

Japan’s seas and rivers contain roughly three thousand species of fish. The waters around the Ryūkyū Islands are home to subtropical anemone fish, parrot fish, wrass and spiny lobster as well as numerous species of shark, turtle and whale. The ocean south of Shikoku and Honshū teems with life, from loggerhead turtles and butterfly fish to dugongs and porpoises, while the colder waters around Hokkaidō bring with them some of the larger whale species – humpback, grey and blue whale – from the Bering Sea and north Pacific.

Ocean currents play a crucial role in this diversity. Warm water flowing round Taiwan and up through the Ryūkyū island chain splits into two on reaching the island of Kyūshū. The branch flowing north into the Sea of Japan, between Japan and China, is known as the Tsushima-shio, while the Kuro-shio or “Black current” follows the more easterly route. Bearing down from the north, hitting Hokkaidō’s northern and eastern shores, comes the cold, nutrient-rich Oya-shio or Kuril current. Where it meets the Kuro-shio off northeastern Honshū, abundant plankton and the mingling of cold- and warm-water species create one of the richest fishing grounds in the entire world.

Forests

Forests of beech, silver fir, broad-leaved evergreens and mangroves once carpeted Japan. However, development during the postwar economic boom – in particular, the massive increase in construction and the rampant building of golf courses – led to the decimation of many of these natural forests. While nearly 67 percent of Japan is still forested, about half of this comprises commercial plantations of quick-growing Japanese cedar and cypress. Not only do these contain a fraction of the biodiversity found in natural forests, but when cheaper timber flooded in from Southeast Asia, Canada and South America in the 1970s and local demand slumped, a large proportion of Japan’s domestic plantations were left unused and untended.

THE NATIONAL PARKS

In the early twentieth century, the growing popularity of recreational activities such as mountaineering provided the spur for the creation of Japan’s national parks (kokuritsu-kōen), the first of which were created in 1934 and are now under the control of the Ministry of Environment ( www.env.go.jp). There are 34 national parks, covering around 5.6 percent of Japan’s land mass, and 57 quasi-national parks (kokutei-kōen; 3.6 percent), which between them receive over 900 million visitors each year. In addition, prefectural natural parks cover a further 5.2 percent of Japan. While for the most part national parks are thought of in terms of recreation, their establishment has been a lifesaver for ecological preservation. Below are details of some of the most important.

Aso-Kujū National Park, Kyūshū. Includes the world’s largest volcano crater (over 90km in circumference), part of which is still active.

Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park, Honshū. Only three hours west of Tokyo, this is a haven for city dwellers. Its forested hills, gorges and valleys give rise to the Tama River that flows through Tokyo.

Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park, Okinawa. Features lush, virgin jungle, cascading waterfalls, mangroves, white beaches and Japan’s largest coral reef, with spectacular underwater life. The dense jungle, which has served to resist human encroachment, is home to the rare Iriomote wild cat.

Shiretoko National Park, Hokkaidō. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, and utterly wild; it’s home to brown bears, Blakiston’s fish-owls and Steller’s sea eagles.

As a result, Japan has come precariously close to losing some of its most spectacular areas of natural forest. The old-growth beech forests – stands of ancient trees, but not necessarily untouched virgin forest – of the Shirakami Mountains in northwest Honshū, for example, came under direct threat in the 1980s from a government proposal to build a logging road right through them. Citizens’ groups, together with the Nature Conservation Society of Japan (NCSJ), mounted a huge campaign to demonstrate the forest’s immeasurable ecological and national value. The government reconsidered the plan and the forest is now designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Environmental issues

Japan is forging ahead with measures to improve its environmental performance. The gradual shift from heavy to hi-tech industry has led to apparently cleaner rivers and air; anecdotal evidence points to an increase in birdlife and statistics show that Mount Fuji is visible more often these days from Tokyo. However, although there have been successes down the years, there remains a litany of environmental issues blotting Japan’s ecological scorecard.

Waste and recycling

In 2009, Japan’s Ministry of Environment announced plans to reduce the country’s total waste from a staggering 52 million tonnes a year (as measured in 2007), and to raise the waste recycling rate from 20 to 25 percent. By 2016, total waste had reduced to under 44 million tonnes per year, with the reduction in waste generation achieved through raising awareness and promoting a charging system for waste disposal services. Unfortunately, the fact that people have since had to pay for the disposal of large items resulted in a substantial amount of illegal dumping in the countryside. However, the Home Appliance Law, in effect since 2001, has resulted in healthy recycling rates – around ninety percent for white goods such as washing and drying machines, and air conditioners. Despite such moves, working out exactly what to do with all the waste still remains a logistical nightmare. Burning it releases poisonous dioxins, while using garbage for land reclamation and landfill has also resulted in significant contamination in some areas.

Nuclear power

With hardly any natural resources of its own, Japan has long been reliant on fossil fuel imports to meet its energy needs. Government tax incentives and subsidies supporting the use of solar power mean that Japan is now a world leader in photovoltaic production. It is also beginning to develop wind power, biomass and other renewable energies.

However, the main area of investment has been in nuclear power. Up until March 11, 2011 the country was meeting around a third of its electricity needs from 55 nuclear reactors, with a plan to increase this to sixty percent by 2050. The Tōhoku earthquake and the ongoing crisis at the Fukushima 1 nuclear power plant confirmed the worst fears environmentalists and the public had about this strategy. The electricity companies conducted stress tests on all remaining nuclear power plants to evaluate their safety margins. The Fukushima plant is still undergoing delicate and dangerous shutdown operations, but there have been a number of worrying accidents during the clean-up operation, including the discovery that huge amounts of contaminated water have been leaking into the ocean.

Polls show that the majority of Japanese people are anti-nuclear and distrust government information on radiation, with more than fifty percent wanting nuclear power plants scrapped or the number of them reduced. There have been calls from politicians, civil society groups and former prime ministers for a new energy policy with less reliance on nuclear power and more development of renewable energy. However, current Prime Minister Abe and his government have included nuclear power in their basic energy policy, arguing that it is still important for “energy security”. They intend to restart more reactors once safety aspects have been confirmed. In 2015, the Sendai nuclear power plant in Kagoshima Prefecture, in Kyūshū, was restarted despite citizen protests. In 2016, the Takahama nuclear power plant in Fukui Prefecture went online, as did one unit of the Ikata nuclear power plant in Shikoku; the government announced plans for more restarts, and the all-new Ōma plant, in Aomori, is due to start operations in 2021.

In the meantime, there remains the question of what to do with the growing stockpiles of nuclear waste, environmental contamination caused by radiation and Japan’s increased carbon dioxide emissions from restarting coal power plants in order to meet energy needs.

Pollution

The Minamata tragedy of the 1950s, in which a Kyūshū community suffered the devastating effects of organic mercury poisoning, was a landmark case that brought to public attention the hazards of industrial pollution. Half a century later, chemical pollution – from agriculture and domestic use, as well as the industrial sector – remains a serious problem; one of the issues raised in the Oscar-winning documentary The Cove is about the off-the-scale toxicity levels of some types of seafood.

Citizens’ movements have been active in tackling issues related to air pollution from factories, power plants and national highways, helping victims to win important lawsuits or reach out-of-court settlements against local authorities and industrial corporations. In November 2000, for example, the Nagoya District Court ordered the state and ten enterprises to pay a total of nearly 300 million yen in compensation to pollution victims and ordered that emissions along a stretch of national highway should be substantially reduced. The government subsequently imposed stricter emission limits and is gradually replacing its own transport fleets with “green” vehicles as well as working towards phasing out diesel buses and trucks in general.

A related issue is the widespread habit of drivers to keep their engines running – for the air-conditioning or heating – even when parked or in long traffic queues. You’ll often see taxis parked up, for example, engine running and the driver sound asleep inside. Despite a number of public awareness campaigns, the message is slow getting across and, though some prefectures have even introduced “anti-idling” laws, there is little enforcement.

NUCLEAR RADIATION IN JAPAN

Apart from the exclusion zone surrounding the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan has been declared safe for both citizens and visitors. However, many environmental and human rights groups still have major concerns about the levels and extent of the radioactive contamination from the nuclear accident. Agriculture and fishing industries were affected by the disaster. Although the government is still conducting checks on food and water, citizen groups are also conducting their own monitoring activities all over Japan. Below are some resources for checking the latest radiation levels.

Citizens’ Nuclear Information Center ( cnic.jp) Information gathered by a network of citizens, scientists and activists.

Nuclear Regulation Authority ( radioactivity.nsr.go.jp) Government website with monitoring information of environmental radioactivity levels.

Safecast ( blog.safecast.org) Citizen group that collects radiation measurements from all over Japan and aims to strengthen the global information network.

Whaling

The Japanese have traditionally caught whales for oil and meat, and the country continues to catch hundreds of these mammals every year, despite an international ban, exploiting a loophole which allows a quota for “scientific research”. Japan argues that the research provides essential data on populations, feeding habits and distribution to allow the mammals to be properly monitored. Indeed, the government now claims that populations of minke, humpback and some other whale species have recovered sufficiently to support managed commercial whaling. In 2005, the national whaling fleet began hunting endangered fin whale for the first time and the following year added the vulnerable humpback to its quota, which now stands at a total of nearly 1300 whales a year.

All the major political parties support whaling, and it is often presented as a matter of national pride to preserve Japanese cultural identity in the face of Western, particularly American, imperialism. Opponents of whaling, on the other hand, accuse Japan of buying the votes of developing countries in order to overturn the 1986 ban imposed by the International Whaling Commission (IWC).

Ironically, less than thirty percent of the Japanese public are in favour of whaling; some surveys put the figure as low as ten percent. Consumption of whale meat, or kujira, has declined markedly since 1986, and the only way the government can now get rid of the meat its scientific fleet brings home is to sell it at highly subsidized prices. Even then, as revealed by Morikawa Jun in his book Whaling in Japan: Power, Politics and Diplomacy, a third of this meat remains unsold.

Japan’s continued whaling has been an international public relations disaster. In recent years, the environmental rights organization Sea Shepherd Conservation Society ( seashepherd.org) has disrupted Japanese whaling with violent clashes in the Southern Ocean, which has been documented in the Animal Planet series Whale Wars. In 2014, Australia won a case against Japan in the International Court of Justice, which ruled that Japanese research whaling in the Southern Ocean must stop because it was not being carried out for legitimate scientific research. However, Japan ignored the ruling and resumed whaling, ostensibly for “research” (though meat was still seen in supermarkets) in 2016; in 2019, Japan withdrew from the IWC entirely, and the sanctioned commercial whaling was resumed.

Scientists have also voiced concerns over the high levels of toxins found in dolphin and whale meat available in Japanese stores. At the same time, interest in whale-watching has been on the increase, and it is becoming abundantly clear that there’s also money to be made from whales through tourism – perhaps more than from killing them. For more information on whaling, see the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society website ( uk.whales.org).

Overfishing

To offset problems caused by overfishing, the Japanese fishing fleet has been cut in recent years and increasingly strict quotas are being imposed. This has not, however, stopped the import of fish into Japan from developing countries which, for their own economic reasons, are less concerned about protecting fish stocks.

Of particular concern is the bluefin tuna (hon-maguro), which is prized for sashimi and sushi, particularly the toro (the fatty belly meat). It’s estimated that Japan consumes around eighty percent of the world’s total bluefin tuna catch. At the same time, bluefin populations are decreasing at an alarming rate in the face of increasing demand worldwide – the present global population is just 2.6 percent of its historical high. Conservationists argue that curbing Japanese consumption is a key to preventing total collapse, but Japan has regularly exceeded its quotas of southern bluefin (which inhabit the southern hemisphere), with the Commission for the Conservation of Southern Bluefin Tuna ( ccsbt.org) saying that the even the figures given are probably much higher if you also include fish caught by other countries over and above their quotas and sold in Japan.

At the consumer’s end, the rocketing price of bluefin tuna should put the brakes on consumption. Conservation bodies have started to mount awareness campaigns, encouraging people to opt for yellowfin tuna and other environmentally sustainable species instead.

Sustainable forestry

Japan has long been the world’s largest consumer of tropical timber, and the activities of Japanese paper and timber companies in the old-growth and primary forests (those subjected to only minimal human disturbance) of neighbouring countries is a huge concern for environmentalists worldwide. Much of the timber is now imported in the form of plywood, which is used in the construction industry to make moulds for pouring concrete and incinerated after it’s been used a couple of times. Since the early 1990s, rainforest protection groups in Japan and abroad have campaigned relentlessly to persuade construction companies and local authorities to reduce their use of tropical wood. There have been some successes, but activists note that the exploitation of developing countries continues.

Excessive packaging and disposable wooden chopsticks (waribashi) are other incredibly wasteful uses of resources. While “my chopsticks” awareness drives are having some impact in getting people to carry their own chopsticks with them, Japan still gets through a staggering 24 billion waribashi per year (almost 200 pairs per person), annually accounting for over 400,000 cubic metres of timber.

The role of Japanese companies in the Australian woodchip industry has also caused much criticism, both at home and abroad. One such company operates a wood-chipping mill that is fed by old-growth eucalyptus trees at a rate of several football fields a day under a twenty-year licence granted by the Australian government. Various Australian environmental groups, including Chipstop ( chipstop.savetheforests.org.au) and The Wilderness Society ( wilderness.org.au), have joined forces with the Japan Tropical Forest Action Network (JATAN; jatan.org) to petition the Australian government and the Japanese paper industry to use woodchips from sustainable sources instead. Again, the campaign seems to be paying off: due to public pressure, Japanese companies are increasingly sourcing woodchips from sustainable forests.

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Film

Japan got its first taste of cinema at Kōbe’s Shinko Club in 1896 – and since then, as in many other creative endeavours, the country has excelled at making films, producing many internationally recognized directors including Kurosawa Akira, Ozu Yasujirō, Itami Jūzō, Kitano Takeshi and Miyazaki Hayao.

Pre-World War II

From the advent of cinema in Japan, theatrical embellishments were considered a vital part of the experience; one theatre had a mock-up of a valley in front of the screen, complete with fish-filled ponds, rocks and fan-generated breeze, to increase the sense of realism. Additionally, the story and dialogue were acted out to the audience by a benshi (narrator). Thus when “talkies” arrived in Japan they were less of a sensation, because sound had long been part of the film experience.

The 1930s were the boom years for early Japanese cinema, with some five hundred features being churned out a year, second only in production to the United States. One of the era’s top directors, though he didn’t gain international recognition until the mid-1950s, was Mizoguchi Kenji (1898–1956). His initial speciality was melodramas based in Meiji-period Japan, but he is best known in the West for his later lyrical medieval samurai dramas, such as Ugetsu Monogatari (1954). During the 1920s and 1930s, however, Mizoguchi also turned his hand to detective, expressionist, war, ghost and comedy films. As Japan fell deeper into the ugliness of nationalism and war, Mizoguchi embraced traditional concepts of stylized beauty in films such as 1939’s The Story of the Last Chrysanthemums (Zangiku Monogatari). Also honing his reputation during the pre-World War II period was director Ozu Yasujirō, whose Tokyo Story from 1954 is a classic.

The 1950s and 1960s

World War II and its immediate aftermath put the dampers on Japan’s cinematic ambitions, but in 1950, the local industry produced Kurosawa Akira’s brilliant Rashōmon, which subsequently won a Golden Lion at the following year’s Venice Film Festival and an honorary Oscar. A string of Kurosawa-directed classics followed, including The Seven Samurai (Schichinin no Samurai 1954), Throne of Blood (Kumonosu-jō; 1957) based on Macbeth; Yōjimbō (1961); and Ran (1985).

The 1950s also saw the birth of one of Japan’s best-known cinema icons, Godzilla – or Gojira as he was known on initial release in 1954. Despite the monster being killed off in the grand finale, the film’s success led to an American release, with added footage, in 1956, under the title Godzilla, King of the Monsters. Over the next four decades, in 28 movies, Godzilla survived to do battle with, among others, King Kong, giant shrimps, cockroaches, moths and a smog monster.

Highly romanticized, violent yakuza flicks were also popular in the 1960s. These ninkyō eiga (chivalry films) often played like modern-day samurai sagas, the tough, fair yakuza being driven by a code of loyalty or honour. One of the major actors to emerge from these films is Takakura Ken, who has since starred in Western films including Ridley Scott’s Black Rain. Try to check out the cult classics Branded to Kill (Koroshi no Rakuin) and Tokyo Drifter (Tokyo Nagaremono) by maverick director Suzuki Seijun, whose visual style and nihilistic cool was an inspiration to Kitano Takeshi and Quentin Tarantino among others.

The 1970s and 1980s

In 1976, In the Realm of the Senses by rebel film-maker Ōshima Nagisa created an international stir with its explicit sex scenes and violent content. Ōshima fought against Japan’s censors, who demanded cuts, but ultimately lost. This was all the more galling for the director, whose film gathered critical plaudits abroad, but remained unseen in its full version at home, because at the same time major Japanese studios were making money from increasingly violent films and soft-core porn, called roman poruno.

By the late 1970s, Japanese cinema was in the doldrums. Entrance fees at the cinema were the highest in the world (they’re still relatively expensive), leaving the public less willing to sample offbeat local films when they could see sure-fire Hollywood hits instead. Ōshima turned in the prisoner-of-war drama Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence in 1983 and the decidedly quirky Max Mon Amour (1986), in which Charlotte Rampling takes a chimp as a lover, before retiring from directing to build his reputation as a TV pundit. Instead of investing money at home, Japanese companies, like Sony, went on a spending spree in Hollywood, buying up major American studios and film rights, thus securing access to lucrative video releases.

Flying the flag for the local industry was Itami Jūzō, an actor who turned director with the mildly satirical The Funeral in 1984. His follow-up, Tampopo (1986), a comedy set against the background of Japan’s gourmet boom, was an international hit, as was his A Taxing Woman (Marusa no Onna) in 1988. The female star of Itami’s films, which poke gentle fun at Japanese behaviour and society, was his wife, the comic actress Miyamoto Nobuko.

Anime

Japanese animation is known as anime, and it encompasses movies, television series and straight-to-video releases. It was developed from the early twentieth century and is considered to have a distinctive style, particularly in regards to its aesthetics and production. Around sixty percent of anime is based on previously published manga, while others, like Pokémon, are inspired by video games. Anime has been a staple of Japanese TV since the 1960s, with some series such as Astro Boy becoming popular overseas. However, it was the critical international success of Ōtomo Katsuhiro’s feature-length film Akira and the rise of Studio Ghibli, purveyors of some of the most successful anime of all time, including Howl’s Moving Castle and the Oscar-winning Spirited Away, that has ignited the current global interest in all things anime.

The 1990s and 2000s

Itami Jūzō’s 1992 satire The Gentle Art of Japanese Extortion (Minbō-no-Onna), which sent up the yakuza, led to the director suffering a knife attack by mob thugs. Undaunted, he recovered and went on to direct more challenging comedies, such as Daibyōnin (1993), about the way cancer is treated in Japanese hospitals, and Sūpā-no-Onna (1995), which revealed the shady practices of supermarkets. Itami committed suicide in 1997, prior to the publication of an exposé of his love life in a scandal magazine, leaving the field clear for Kitano Takeshi to emerge as Japan’s new cinema darling.

Kurosawa Akira, referred to respectfully as “Sensei” (teacher) by all in the industry, received an Honorary Award at the Oscars in 1990, the same year as he teamed up with George Lucas and Steven Spielberg to make the semi-autobiographical Yume (Dreams). His anti-war film Rhapsody in August (Hachigatsu-no-Kyōshikyoku; 1991), however, attracted criticism abroad for its somewhat one-sided treatment of the subject. Kurosawa’s final film before his death, in 1998, was the low-key drama Mādadayo (1993) about an elderly academic.

TORA-SAN

Although hardly known outside of Japan, the country’s most beloved – and financially successful – series of films are those featuring Tora-san, or Kuruma Torajirō, a loveable itinerant peddler from Tokyo’s Shitamachi. The series began with Otoko wa Tsurai yo (It’s Tough Being a Man) in 1969, and the lead character was played by Atsumi Kiyoshi in 48 films up until the actor’s death in 1996. The format of the films is invariably the same, with Tora-san chasing after his latest love, or “Madonna”, in various scenic areas of Japan, before returning to his exasperated family.

Meanwhile, the prolific Kurosawa Kiyoshi had begun to make waves with quirky genre pictures, such as The Excitement of the Do-Re-Mi-Fa Girls (1985), The Serpent Path (1998) and its sequel Eyes of the Spider (1998). Tsukamoto Shin’ya had an art-house hit with the sci-fi horror film Tetsuo about a man turning into a machine, a story inspired by the acclaimed anime Akira. A much bigger hit, with both local and international audiences, was Shall We Dance?, a charming comedy-drama about ballroom dancing, which swept up all thirteen of Japan’s Academy Awards in 1996.

Master of the gleeful splatterfest is the prolific Miike Takashi, who has jumped around from the stylized gangster violence of Ichi the Killer to the sci-fi action of his Dead or Alive trilogy, via the musical horror comedy of The Happiness of the Katakuris. In 2009 his Yatterman, based on a popular cartoon series from the 1970s, was a local hit. After Miike’s gory Shield of Straw (2013) flopped (though it was nominated for the Palme d’Or award at Cannes), he filmed an historical biopic about a Japanese doctor in war-torn Kenya called The Lion Standing in the Wind (2015).

Reinterpreting the horror genre, Nakata Hideo’s Ring (1998) and paranormal chiller Dark Water (2002) were both remade in English in Hollywood before Nakata himself went west in 2005 to direct his English-language debut The Ring Two, a new sequel to the Hollywood version of Ring. Fans will want to compare it to Nakata’s original – and different – Japanese sequel Ring 2 (1999).

A decade into the new millennium, the film industry seemed to be thriving. In his 80s, Suzuki Seijun made a wonderful and surprising comeback in 2006 with the fairy-tale musical Princess Racoon. In 2007, The Mourning Forest scooped up the Grand Prix at Cannes for director Kawase Naomi, a decade after her debut film Moe no Suzaku had scored a prize at the same festival. Also scoring at Cannes and other awards ceremonies was Kurosawa Kiyoshi’s satirical drama Tokyo Sonata. And, in 2009, Takita Yōjirō’s Departures took top honours as best foreign-language film at the Oscars.

The 2010s

After the March 2011 earthquake and tsunami, there were fewer major successes for Japanese films, both at home and abroad. In 2012, a considerable number of films released were based on manga and even video games. In 2013, Kore’eda Hirokazu’s family drama Like Father, Like Son won the Prix du Jury at Cannes, making it the first Japanese film to win an award since Kawase’s film in 2007, and showing that some film-makers who debuted and were successful in the 1990s are still prominent. Younger, more aspirational directors have recently failed to live up to expectations – Fukada Koji’s dark family drama Harmonium won a Prix du Certain Regard at Cannes in 2016, and he was hailed as a major new talent, but little has been heard from him since. Kawase scored another Palme d’Or nomination in 2017 with romantic drama Radiance, but audiences were less enthralled; the following year, Hirokazu Kore’eda scooped the gong with Shoplifters, a drama about poverty which was also nominated as Best Foreign Language Film at the Oscars and Golden Globes. However, the obstacles for Japan’s cinema industry are certainly not a lack of creativity or drive. Many film-makers are becoming increasingly vocal about the lack of government support for the feature film industry, compared to countries such as France or South Korea, and emphasize the cultural value of supporting a viable film production environment.

FILM RECOMMENDATIONS

JAPANESE CLASSICS

Black Rain (Imamura Shōhei; 1989). Not to be confused with the US yakuza flick, this serious drama traces the strains put on family life in a country village after the atomic bomb is dropped on Hiroshima.

Godzilla, King of the Monsters (Honda Ishirō & Terry O Morse; 1956). Originally released two years earlier in Japan as Gojira, the film about a giant mutant lizard, born after a US hydrogen bomb test in the Bikini Atoll, was such a hit that previously cut scenes were added for the American market. Raymond Burr plays the journalist telling in flashback the event that led to Godzilla running amok in Tokyo.

In the Realm of the Senses (Ai no Koriida; Ōshima Nagisa; 1976). Based on the true story of servant girl Sada Abe and her intensely violent sexual relationship with her master Kichi – who ends up dead and minus his penis.

Kagemusha (Kurosawa Akira; 1980). Nominated for an Academy Award and co-winner of the Grand Prix at Cannes, Kurosawa showed he was still on form with this sweeping historical epic in which a poor criminal is recruited to impersonate a powerful warlord who has inconveniently died mid-campaign.

Ran (Kurosawa Akira; 1985). This much-lauded, loose adaptation of King Lear is a real epic, with thousands of extras and giant battle scenes. The daughters become sons, although the Regan and Goneril characters survive in the form of the gleefully vengeful wives Lady Kaede and Lady Sue.

Rashōmon (Kurosawa Akira; 1950). The film that established Kurosawa’s reputation in the West. A notorious bandit, the wife he perhaps rapes, the man he perhaps murders and the woodcutter who perhaps witnesses the events each tell their different story of what happened in the woods. Fascinatingly open-ended narrative and a memorable performance by Mifune Toshirō as the restless bandit make this a must-see film.

ANIME ON THE BIG SCREEN

In 1958, Toei produced Japan’s first full-length, full-colour animated feature Hakujaden (released as Tale of the White Panda in the US) and went on to make a series of increasingly sophisticated films, culminating in Little Norse Prince (Taiyō no Ōji Horusu no Daibōken) in 1968. This was the directorial debut of Takahata Isao who, in 1985, teamed up with Miyazaki Hayao to form Studio Ghibli ( ghibli.jp), the most successful of Japanese animation companies.

During the 1960s, TV anime came to the fore with Tezuka Osamu’s Tetsuwan Atomu series, more popularly known as Astro Boy, a success both at home and abroad. Tezuka’s Kimba the White Lion and Tatsuo Yoshida’s Mach Go Go Go (Speed Racer in the US) were other hit TV series from this era, while in the 1970s it was space-based adventures, such as Space Battleship Yamato (Star Blazers) and Kagaku Ninja tai Gatchaman (Battle of the Planets), that had kids glued to the gogglebox.

By the 1980s, ambitious artists were pushing the boundaries of the genre into cinema-scale works with higher production values such as Ōtomo Katsuhiro’s dark sci-fi fantasy Akira. Miyazaki Hayao was also making his name, initially with his ecological man vs nature fantasy adventure Nausicaä of the Valley of Wind (1984), then with Studio Ghibli smashes such as My Neighbour Totoro, Princess Mononoke and the Oscar-winning Spirited Away. In 2013, Miyazaki announced his retirement. His last feature-length film, The Wind Rises, is based on the story of the man who designed the Zero fighter planes in World War II, and attracted controversy due to its anti-war message.

Among other cinema anime directors to watch out for are: Kon Satoshi, whose films include the Hitchcockian psychological drama Perfect Blue (1997), Tokyo Godfathers, and Paprika (2006), a visually splendid tale about the search for a stolen device that allows physical access to people’s dreams; Oshii Mamoru, who has the seminal Ghost in the Shell and The Sky Crawlers (2008) to his credit; and Hosoda Mamoru, whose The Girl Who Leapt Through Time (Toki o Kakeru Shōjo; 2006) and Summer Wars (2009) have both garnered rave reviews. For an in-depth look at the medium, read The Rough Guide to Anime.

More recently, Shinkai Makoto, the director of 2013’s excellent The Garden of Words and 2016 mega-hit Your Name, has been touted as “The New Miyazaki”, though 2019 follow-up Weathering With You received mixed reviews.

BEAT TAKESHI

Comedian, actor, director, writer, painter and video-game designer – is there anything that Kitano Takeshi can’t do? Known locally as Beat Takeshi after his old comedy double act, the Two Beats, Kitano – who was born in Tokyo in 1947 – first came to international attention for his role as a brutal camp sergeant in Ōshima’s Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence. His directorial debut Violent Cop (1989) saw him star as a police officer in the Dirty Harry mould. His next film, Boiling Point (3-4 x 10 Gatsu), was an equally bloody outing, but it was his more reflective and comic Sonatine, about a gang war in sunny Okinawa, that had foreign critics hailing him as Japan’s Quentin Tarantino.

Kitano survived a near-fatal motorbike accident in 1994, and triumphed with Hanabi, which scooped up a Golden Lion at the Venice Festival in 1997. In 2003, he directed the popular Zatoichi, playing the blind swordsman of the title with bleached-blonde hair. Kitano has won acclaim with yakuza film Outrage (2010) and its sequels, Outrage Beyond (2012) and Outrage Coda (2017), as well as a dark comedy in the same genre, Ryuzo and the Seven Henchmen (2015). More recently, he appeared in the live action remake of Ghost in the Shell (2017).

The Seven Samurai (Shichinin no Samurai; Kurosawa Akira; 1954). A small village in sixteenth-century Japan is fed up with being raided each year by bandits, so it hires a band of samurai warriors for protection. Kurosawa’s entertaining period drama was later remade in Hollywood as The Magnificent Seven.

Tokyo Story (Tōkyō Monogatari; Ozu Yasujirō; 1954). An elderly couple travel to Tokyo to visit their children and grandchildren. The only person who has any time for them is Noriko, the widow of their son who was killed in the war. On their return, the mother falls ill and dies. Ozu’s themes of loneliness and the breakdown of tradition are grim, but his simple approach and the sincerity of the acting make the film a genuine classic.

Twenty-Four Eyes (Nijūshi no Hitomi; Kinoshita Keisuke; 1954). This four-hankie weepy is one of Japan’s most-loved films. Events leading up to, during and after World War II are seen through the eyes of a first-grade female teacher (a luminous performance by Takanime Hideko), on the island of Shōdo-shima. The twelve cute children in Ōishi-san’s class make up the 24 eyes.

When a Woman Ascends the Stairs (Onna ga Kaidan o Agaru Toki; Naruse Mikio; 1960). Naruse ranks alongside Kurosawa and Ozu as one of Japan’s great film directors. This film, about an ageing hostess in a Ginza bar, is from the latter end of his career and has a splendid central performance by Takamine Hideko.

Yōjimbō (Kurosawa Akira; 1961). Mifune Toshirō stars in one of Kurosawa’s best-known samurai sagas as a rōnin who arrives in a dusty town, is greeted by a dog carrying a human hand and discovers he’s walked in on a bloody feud.

ITAMI JŪZŌ AND KITANO TAKESHI

The Funeral (Osōshiki; Itami Jūzō; 1984). Itami’s directorial debut is a wry comedy about a grieving family bumbling their way through the obscure conventions of a proper Japanese funeral. The young couple learn the “rules” by watching a video, and the Buddhist priest turns up in a white Rolls-Royce.

Hanabi (Kitano Takeshi; 1997). Venice Festival winner with Kitano directing himself as a detective pushed to breaking point by a stakeout that goes wrong, a seriously ill wife and outstanding loans to the yakuza. Kitano also painted the artwork that appears in the film.

Sonatine (Kitano Takeshi; 1993). One of Kitano’s most accomplished films. He plays a tired gangster, hightailing it to the sunny isles of Okinawa and getting mixed up in mob feuds, before it all turns nasty on the beach.

Tampopo (Itami Jūzō; 1985). Tampopo, the proprietress of a noodle bar, is taught how to prepare the perfect ramen, in this comedy about Japan’s gourmet boom. From the old woman squishing fruit in a supermarket to the gangster and his moll passing a raw egg sexily between their mouths, this is a film packed with memorable scenes.

Zatoichi (Kitano Takeshi; 2003). A classic of Japanese TV remade with an assured, modern touch by Kitano, who also stars as the eponymous hero, a blind master swordsman with whom you really don’t want to tangle. The film’s finale has the cast doing a tap-dancing number in geta (wooden sandals).

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE CINEMA

Campaign (Senkyo; Sōda Kazuhiro; 2007) and Campaign 2 (Senkyo 2; Sōda Kazuhiro; 2013). Fly-on-the-wall-style documentary following Yamauchi-san, a novice LDP candidate on the campaign trail during the Kawasaki municipal elections. The follow-up catches him as an independent candidate standing in local elections less than a month after the 2011 disaster; he was the only candidate mentioning the nuclear issue. Both films are a brilliant insight on Japanese politics and society.

Departures (Okuribito; Takita Yōjirō; 2008). Oscar-winning drama about an out-of-work cellist who winds up working at a funeral parlour in his home town in Yamagata prefecture. Because of the nature of this taboo profession, he at first keeps his new job secret from his family and friends.

Fake (Mori Tatsuya; 2016). Follows disgraced “modern-day Japanese Beethoven” after he is exposed for not being deaf and unable to read music. An intriguing exploration of celebrity and public apology.

From Ashes to Honey (Kamanaka Hitomi; 2010). Third in a trilogy on anti-nuclear activism in Japan. Kamanaka follows the residents of Iwaijima, in the Inland Sea, as they try to stop the construction of a nuclear power plant.

Harmonium (Fuchi ni Tatsu; Fukada Koji; 2016). Suspenseful and devastating drama starring Asano Tadamobu as an ex-con who manipulates and finally destroys a family. The harmonium of the title refers to the church-going wife, her non-harmonious marriage and her daughter’s reluctance to learn to play the harmonium.

Ichi the Killer (Miike Takashi; 2001). Stand by for graphic depictions of bodies sliced in half in this yakuza tale, set in Tokyo’s Kabukichō, as told by the enfant terrible of Japanese cinema. Not for the squeamish.

Like Someone in Love (Abbas Kiarostami; 2013). A great piece from the famed Iranian director, detailing the life of a young woman selling her body to pay her way through university.

The Long Excuse (Nagai Iiwake: Nishikawa Miwa; 2016). Exploring themes of bereavement and empathy, Nishikawa’s clever and darkly comedic film (based on her novel) is about a popular writer whose wife dies in an accident, and his inability to mourn her death appropriately.

The Mourning Forest (Mogari no Mori; Kawase Naomi; 2007). This Cannes film festival prize-winner is a moving tale of a caretaker at a retirement home and one of the residents, both struggling with bereavement, who make a road trip into the forests around Nara.

Nobody Knows (Kore’eda Hirokazu; 2004). Tragic story of four children trying to survive after being abandoned by their mother. Wonderful performance by the child actors, which earned Yagira Yaya a best actor award at Cannes in 2004.

Nuclear Nation (Funahashi Atsushi; 2012). Documenting a year in the life of nuclear refugees, this film shows the anger and struggles of an entire town in Fukushima who were displaced after the 2011 disasters.

Osaka Story (Ōsaka Monogatari; Nakata Toichi; 1994). Nakata Toichi ticks off many difficult contemporary issues in this documentary, which follows the homecoming of a gay, Korean–Japanese film student to his Osaka-based family. His staunchly Korean father expects him to take over the business and get married, but the son has other ideas.

Shoplifters (Manbiki Kazoku; Kore’eda Hirokazu; 2018). A Palme d’Or winner, telling the tale of an impoverished “family” that relies on shoplifting in order to survive; a commercial, as well as critical, success.

Ring (Nakata Hideo; 1998). Remade in Hollywood, this is the original and far superior spine-chiller about a videotape that kills everyone who sees it exactly one week after viewing.

Shall We Dance? (Suo Masayuki; 1996). At turns touching and hilarious, Shall We Dance? features Yakusho Kōji playing a quietly frustrated middle-aged salaryman whose spark returns when he takes up ballroom dancing, though he must keep it secret from his family and work colleagues to avoid social stigma.

Tokyo Sonata (Kurosawa Kiyoshi; 2008). When a father decides not to tell his family he’s lost his job as a salaryman it has all kinds of repercussions. A bleak, satirical drama reflective of contemporary Japanese society.

ESSENTIAL ANIME

Akira (Ōtomo Katsuhiro; 1988). Dynamic action sequences drive forward this nihilistic sci-fi fantasy, set in a newly rebuilt Neo-Tokyo during the run-up to the fictional 2019 Olympics (funny, they’d have got the date spot on if they’d looked at the Olympic schedule properly).

The Garden of Words (Makoto Shinkai; 2013). Exquisitely presented anime, mostly set in Shinjuku Gyoen, telling the story of a school-skipping teen’s fateful encounter with an older lady.

Ghost in the Shell (Kokaku Kidōtai; Oshii Mamoru’s; 1995). A sophisticated sci-fi thriller that’s director Mamoru Oshii’s finest work, together with its sequel Innocence and the fascinating TV series it spawned.

In This Corner of the World (Kono Sekai no Katasumi ni; Katabuchi Sunao; 2016). Set in World War II Hiroshima, this award-winning anime is the story of a feisty young woman and her experiences before and after the atomic bombing. The emphasis here is less on victimhood and more on the injustices and deprivations of war.

My Neighbour Totoro (Tonari no Totoro; Miyazaki Hayao; 1988). Charming kids’ fable set in 1950s Japan about two little girls with a sick mother who make friends with the mythical creatures of the forest, including the giant cuddly character of the title.

Only Yesterday (Omohide Poroporo; Takahata Isao; 1988). Beautifully realized film about a woman, on a life-changing vacation in the countryside, recalling the childhood episodes that shaped her personality.

Princess Mononoke (Mononoke Hime; Miyazaki Hayao; 1997). Exciting period drama set in medieval Japan has an ecological message about saving the earth’s resources.

Spirited Away (Sen to Chihiro no Kamikaskushi; Miyazaki Hayao; 2001). Oscar-winning Japanese Alice in Wonderland-style adventure. When her parents take a wrong turn into a mysteriously deserted theme park, Chihiro finds she has to negotiate her way around the strange creatures she meets at a huge bathhouse before finding a way home.

Tokyo Godfathers (Kon Satoshi; 2003). This heart-warming Christmas fairy tale of redemption for three tramps and the baby they discover in the trash is pure anime magic.

Your Name (Kimi no Na wa; Shinkai Makoto; 2016). Record-breaking box-office hit from the up-and-coming Shinkai Makoto (touted as Miyazaki Hayao’s successor) about two high-school students who switch bodies and genders overnight. The usual comedic incidents ensue, but it’s also a touching time-travelling love story.

FOREIGN FILMS FEATURING JAPAN

Black Rain (Ridley Scott; 1989). Gruff Michael Douglas and younger sidekick Andy Garcia team up with stoic Osaka policeman, played by Takakura Ken, to deal with the yakuza.

The Great Happiness Space (Jake Clennell; 2006). This riveting documentary on an Osaka host club has brutally honest interviews with the male hosts and their female customers.

The Last Samurai (Edward Zwick; 2003). Tom Cruise, Billy Connolly and some of Japan’s top acting talent star in this tale of a US Civil War vet who comes to train the Emperor Meiji’s troops in modern warfare, but finds much to learn himself in the samurai code of honour.

Letters from Iwo-jima (Clint Eastwood; 2006). Experience the bloody battle for the island of Iwo-jima at the end of World War II from the point of view of two Japanese soldiers played by Watanabe Ken and Ninomiya Kazunari.

Lost in Translation (Sofia Coppola; 2003). Memorable performances from Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson in this stylish comedy-drama set in and around Shinjuku’s Park Hyatt hotel. Brilliantly captures the urban experience for foreigners in Tokyo.

Memoirs of a Geisha (Rob Marshall; 2005). Epic-scale film which gallops through Arthur Golden’s bestselling tale of the trials and tribulations of apprentice geisha Sayuri, played here by Chinese actor Zhang Ziyi, wearing uncommonly blue contact lenses. Gong Li chews up the scenery as her arch-rival, and Watanabe Ken, Hollywood’s pin-up Japanese actor de jour, also puts in an appearance as Sayuri’s saviour, the Chairman.

Ramen Girl (Robert Allen Ackerman; 2009). One of Brittany Murphy’s last films, in which she does a charming job of learning to cook ramen at a neighbourhood Tokyo restaurant with no Japanese language skills. Heavily references the classic Tampopo.

Shugendo Now (Jean-Marc Abela; 2010). Poetic documentary on modern mountain ascetics in Japan as they perform shamanistic rituals and Tantric Buddhism. Shows the extraordinary contrast between urban life and ancient spirituality in Japan.

You Only Live Twice (Lewis Gilbert; 1967). A retro look at Tokyo as Sean Connery, in his fifth outing as Bond-san, grapples with arch-enemy Blofeld and sundry Japanese villains. Cool gadgets include a mini-helicopter in a suitcase (with rocket launchers, of course).

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Books

The one thing the world is not short of is books about Japan; the following selection includes ones that provide a deeper understanding of what is lazily assumed to be one of the world’s most enigmatic countries. As throughout this Guide, for Japanese names we have given the family name first. This may not always be the order in which it is printed on the English translation.

USEFUL CONTACTS

The following publishers specialize in English-language books on Japan, as well as translations of Japanese works: Kodansha ( www.kodanshausa.com); Tuttle ( tuttlepublishing.com); Stonebridge Press ( stonebridge.com); and Vertical ( vertical-inc.com), which publishes not only great manga titles but also a series of fiction and non-fiction titles by lesser-known (outside of Japan) talents.

HISTORY

Ian Buruma Inventing Japan. Focusing on the period 1853 to 1964, during which Japan went from a feudal, isolated state to a powerhouse of the modern world economy. Buruma’s The Wages of Guilt also skilfully explains how and why Germany and Japan have come to terms so differently with their roles in World War II.

John Dougill In Search of Japan’s Hidden Christians. Part historical narrative, part travelogue, the fascinating and largely unknown history of Japan’s hidden Christians is told in an engaging way. The in-depth research reveals some surprising stories of survival and belief.

John Dower Embracing Defeat. Accessible look by a Pulitzer prizewinner at the impact of the American occupation on Japan. First-person accounts and snappy writing bring the book alive.

Andrew Gordon A Modern History of Japan: From Tokugawa Times to the Present. An excellent overview of two centuries of history covering modernization and militarism, as well as the postwar economic “miracle”.

John Hersey Hiroshima. Classic account of the devastation and suffering wrought by the first A-bomb to be used in war.

John Man Ninja: 1000 Years of the Shadow Warrior. An investigation into the world of ninja, the “shadow warriors” or assassins with stealth and spy skills. Man traces their origins to China, while dispelling pop culture stereotypes and revealing how their legendary tactics were utilized during World War II.

Giles Milton Samurai William. Will Adams was one of a handful of shipwrecked sailors who arrived in Japan in 1600 and went on to become adviser to the shogun and the only foreigner ever to be made a samurai. Milton tells the tale with gusto.

Richard Lloyd Parry Ghosts of the Tsunami. The most interesting account of the 2011 earthquake, the tsunami that soon followed, and the horrific aftermath – a thorough yet intimate account of a truly epic tragedy.

BUSINESS, ECONOMICS AND POLITICS

Alex Kerr Dogs and Demons. A scathing and thought-provoking attack on Japan’s economic, environmental and social policies of the past decades, by someone who first came to Japan as a child in the 1960s and has been fascinated by it ever since. Also worth reading is his earlier book Lost Japan.

Laura J Kriska Accidental Office Lady. Kriska’s account of her two years working in Japan as a trainee for Honda in the late 1980s is particularly good for its perspective on gender in Japanese corporate life.

Niall Murtagh The Blue-eyed Salaryman. Anyone who has ever worked for a Japanese company will find much to identify with in this honest, witty account by an Irish computer programmer, who became a salaryman for Mitsubishi.

Karel Van Wolferen The Enigma of Japanese Power. A weighty, thought-provoking tome, but one worth wading through. This is the standard text on the triad of Japan’s bureaucracy, politicians and business.

TRADITIONAL ARTS, ARCHITECTURE AND GARDENS

Liza Dalby Geisha. In the 1970s, anthropologist Dalby immersed herself in the fast-dissolving life of the geisha. This is the fascinating account of her experience and those of her teachers and fellow pupils. Kimono, her history of that most Japanese of garments, is also worth reading.

Itoh Teiji The Gardens of Japan. Splendid photos of all Japan’s great historical gardens, including many not generally open to the public, as well as contemporary examples.

Alex Kerr and Kathy Arlyn Sokol Another Kyoto. The intricate heritage of Kyoto’s architectural and artistic traditions, with fascinating anecdotes and illustrated examples.

Matsui Kesako Kabuki, a Mirror of Japan. A fascinating look at ten of the most renowned and popular kabuki plays, and how they relate to larger patterns of cultural development in Japan since the late seventeenth century.

Joan Stanley-Baker Japanese Art. Highly readable introduction to the broad range of Japan’s artistic traditions (though excluding theatre and music), tracing their development from prehistoric to modern times.

CULTURE AND SOCIETY

Jake Adelstein Tokyo Vice. With forensic thoroughness and gallows humour, Adelstein documents his unsentimental education in crime reporting for the Yomiuri Shimbun, Japan’s top-selling newspaper. A television version of the book is in development.

Anne Allison Precarious Japan. A sobering look at modern Japanese society immediately before and after the 2011 disaster. Anthropologist Allison provides some fascinating insights into the many social ills which plague daily life and the stories of those who are effecting change.

Ruth Benedict The Chrysanthemum and the Sword. This classic study of the hierarchical order of Japanese society, first published in 1946, remains relevant (and controversial) for its conclusions on the psychology of a nation that had just suffered defeat in World War II.

Lucy Birmingham and David McNeill Strong in the Rain. Tokyo-based journalists ponder their experiences in the aftermath of the 2011 disaster and closely follow the lives of six survivors who showed great courage and determination. A moving and well-written account.

Ian Buruma A Japanese Mirror and The Missionary and the Libertine. The first book is an intelligent, erudite examination of Japan’s popular culture, while The Missionary and the Libertine collects together a range of essays on everthing from Pearl Harbor to the film director Ōshima Nagisa.

Veronica Chambers Kickboxing Geishas. Based on interviews with a broad cross section of women, from Hokkaidō DJs to top executives, Chambers argues that modern Japanese women are not the submissive characters so often portrayed in the media, but in fact a strong force for change. A sympathetic and insightful book.

Edward Fowler San’ya Blues. Fowler’s experiences living and working among the casual labourers of Tokyo’s San’ya district make fascinating reading. He reveals the dark underbelly of Japan’s economic miracle and blows apart a few myths and misconceptions on the way.

Paul Murphy True Crime Japan. Journalist Murphy smashes some stereotypes about Japanese people in his account of the chilling, farcical and extraordinary stories of the thieves, rascals, killers and dopeheads he witnessed in the Kafkaesque but functional Japanese justice system.

Roger Pulvers If There Were No Japan. Arriving in Japan in 1967 unable to speak the language, Pulvers has since published dozens of books, as well as written and directed many plays, in Japanese. This memoir includes frank analysis of modern Japan, as well as reminiscences on friendships with some of Japan’s most creative people.

Saga Junichi Confessions of a Yakuza. This life story of a former yakuza boss, beautifully retold by a doctor whose clinic he just happened to walk into, gives a rare insight into a secret world. Saga also wrote the award-winning Memories of Silk and Straw, a collection of reminiscences about village life in premodern Japan.

Tendo Shoko Yakuza Moon. The daughter of a yakuza, Tendo lived her teens in a blur of violence, sex and drugs. By age 15, she was in a detention centre and then gradually pulled her life together to write this searing account of life in the underclass of Japanese society.

POP CULTURE

Abby Denson Cool Japan Guide. Written by a comic book writer, this is a good purchase for those travelling to Japan with kids in tow – something for them to read on the plane and get them (even more) excited.

Patrick Galbraith The Otoku Encyclopedia. This is the insider’s guide to otaku (geek or nerd) culture in Japan. It looks at the history of fandom of manga and anime and the associated cultural practices of maid cafés and cosplay.

Hector Garcia A Geek in Japan. A good read for newbie Japanophiles itching to learn more about manga, anime or the eponymous otaku (geek or nerd); it also includes information about Zen, tea ceremonies and the like, even though they’re a bit of a mismatch given the aim at a younger crowd, though the newest revision (published 2019) at least makes sure that the rest is up-to-date.

Roland Kelts Japanamerica. Highly accessible, personalized account of how Japanese pop culture – and in particular manga and anime – has become such a huge success in the US. Kelts, half Japanese, half American and living in both countries, makes many intelligent observations and digs up some fascinating tales.

Frederik L. Schodt Dreamland Japan: Writings on Modern Manga. A series of entertaining and informative essays on the art of Japanese comic books, profiling the top publications, artists, animated films and English-language manga.

Ban Toshio The Tezuka Osamu Story: A Life in Manga and Anime. Fittingly, the life story of the “God of Manga” and pioneer of anime is told here in graphic form by one of Tezuka’s closest friends and collaborators.

FOOD AND DRINK

John Gauntner Sake Confidential. This is a fun basic guide to expanding your knowledge and developing a more sophisticated understanding of sake. Gauntner unpacks the secrets of Japan’s favourite tipple with the intention of making it more accessible and more enjoyable.

Brian MacDuckston Ramen at Home. Now here’s a challenge: this readable book may allow you to prove to yourself that good ramen doesn’t only exist in restaurants. Good luck!

Nancy Singleton Hachisu Japanese Farm Food. Recipes and life experiences from an American expat living in an 80-year-old farmhouse in rural Japan. Beautiful photography and healthy food.

Kurihara Harumi Harumi’s Japanese Cooking. An easy-to-follow guide from Japan’s Martha Stewart, with a down-to-earth approach to preparing typical dishes that Japanese eat at home.

Jane Lawson Zenbu Zen. The author spends a year in Kyoto soaking up the seasons and the food culture. Sumptuous photos, recipes and observations on life in the ancient capital.

Mark Robinson Izakaya: The Japanese Pub Cookbook. A beautifully illustrated celebration of some of the author’s favourite Tokyo-based izakaya, with over sixty recipes for their rustic food.

Dominic Roskrow Whisky Japan. Japanese whisky is gaining an ever-better international reputation (one won the Whisky Bible’s prestigious annual award in 2013), and this handy guide will help you sort your Nikka Yoichi from your Yamazaki Single Malts.

Shinzo Satomi Sushi Chef Sukiyabashi Jiro. The titular restaurant rocketed to fame after being featured in 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, culminating in a 2014 visit by Barack Obama. In this short book, star chef Ono Jiro talks about sushi, rather than dreaming of it, and his insights are quite absorbing.

Robb Satterwhite What’s What in Japanese Restaurants. Written by a Tokyo-based epicure, this handy guide covers all the types of Japanese food and drink you’re likely to encounter, and the menus annotated with Japanese characters are particularly useful.

TRAVEL WRITING

Isabella Bird Unbeaten Tracks in Japan. After a brief stop in Meiji-era Tokyo, intrepid Victorian adventurer Bird is determined to reach parts of Japan unexplored, as yet, by tourists. She heads north to Hokkaidō, taking the time to make acute, vivid observations along the way.

Alan Booth The Roads to Sata and Looking for the Lost. Two classics by one of the most insightful and entertaining modern writers on Japan, whose talents were tragically cut short by his death in 1993. The first book sees Booth, an avid long-distance walker, hike (with the aid of many a beer) from the far north of Hokkaidō to the southern tip of Kyūshū, while Looking for the Lost, a trio of walking tales, is by turns hilarious and heartbreakingly poignant.

Will Ferguson Hokkaido Highway Blues. Humorist Ferguson decides to hitch from one end of Japan to the other, with the aim of travelling with the Japanese, not among them. He succeeds (despite everyone telling him – even those who stop to pick him up – that Japanese never stop for hitch-hikers), and in the process turns out a great book of travel writing about the country. Funny and ultimately moving.

Pico Iyer The Lady and the Monk. Devoted to a year Iyer spent studying Zen Buddhism and dallying with a married woman in Kyoto, who subsequently became his life partner. It’s a rose-tinted, dreamy view of Japan, which he has since followed up, in a more realistic way, with his excellent and thought-provoking The Global Soul.

JAPAN THROUGH AN AMERICAN’S EYES

Donald Richie wrote intelligently about Japanese culture since he first arrived in the country in 1947 to work as a typist for the US occupying forces, until his death in 2013. Richie is best known as a scholar of Japanese cinema, but among his forty-odd books it’s his essay collections – Public People, Private People; A Lateral View; Partial Views – that set a standard to which other expat commentators can only aspire. Public People is a series of sketches of famous and unknown Japanese, including profiles of novelist Mishima Yukio and the actor Mifune Toshirō. In A Lateral View and Partial Views, Richie tackles Tokyo style, avant-garde theatre, pachinko, the Japanese kiss and the Zen rock garden at Kyoto’s Ryōan-ji, among many other things.

His subtle, elegiac travelogue The Inland Sea, first published in 1971, captures the timeless beauty of the island-studded waterway and is a must read. In Tokyo, Richie captures the essence of the city he lived in for more than fifty years. Naturally, he also served as editor on Lafcadio Hearn’s Japan, which includes sections from the classic Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, among Hearn’s other works. For an overview of the immense Richie oeuvre, dip into The Donald Richie Reader: 50 Years of Writing on Japan or his Japan Journals 1947–2004.

Karin Muller Japanland. Documentary film-maker and travel writer Muller heads to Japan in search of wa – the Japanese concept of harmony. The interesting cast of characters she meets in the year she spends there – part of the time living just south of Tokyo, the other travelling, including to Kyoto, Shikoku and northern Honshū – is what makes this book rise above similar efforts.

GUIDES AND REFERENCE BOOKS

John Dougill and Joseph Cali Shinto Shrines: A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan’s Ancient Religion. An interesting introduction to the history and philosophy of Japan’s native religion. This detailed and practical guide profiles more than sixty major Shintō shrines, many of which are World Heritage Sites.

Ed Readicker-Henderson The Traveler’s Guide to Japanese Pilgrimages. A practical guide to Japan’s top three pilgrim routes: Hiei-zan (near Kyoto); the 33 Kannon of Saigoku (a broad sweep from the Kii peninsula to Lake Biwa); and following the steps of Kōbō Daishi round Shikoku’s 88 temples.

Marc Treib and Ron Herman A Guide to the Gardens of Kyoto. Handy, pocket-sized guide to more than fifty of the city’s gardens, with concise historical details and step-by-step descriptions of each garden, revised in 2019.

CLASSIC LITERATURE

Kawabata Yasunari Snow Country, The Izu Dancer and other titles. Japan’s first Nobel prizewinner for fiction writes intense tales of passion – usually about a sophisticated urban man falling for a simple country girl.

Murasaki Shikibu The Tale of Genji. Claimed as the world’s first novel, this lyrical epic about the lives and loves of a nobleman was spun by a lady of the Heian court around 1000 AD.

Sōseki Natsume Botchan, Kokoro and I am a Cat. In his comic novel Botchan, Sōseki draws on his own experiences as an English teacher in early twentieth-century Matsuyama. The three volumes of I am a Cat see the humorist adopting a wry feline point of view on the world. Kokoro – about an ageing sensei (teacher) trying to come to terms with the modern era – is considered his best book.

Sei Shōnagon The Pillow Book. Fascinating insight into the daily life and artful thoughts of a tenth-century noblewoman.

Tanizaki Jun’ichirō Some Prefer Nettles and The Makioka Sisters. One of the great stylists of Japanese prose, Tanizaki’s finest book is often considered to be Some Prefer Nettles, about a romantic liaison between a Japanese man and a Eurasian woman. However, there’s an epic sweep to The Makioka Sisters, which documents the decline of a wealthy merchant family in Osaka.

CONTEMPORARY FICTION

Kawakami Hiromi Manazuru. A haunting, almost surreal story where the main character tries to forget her loss by visiting places where her memories are the strongest, notably the seaside town of Manazuru. Strange Weather in Tokyo is also worth seeking out.

Mishima Yukio After the Banquet, Confessions of Mask, Forbidden Colours and The Sea of Fertility. Novelist Mishima sealed his notoriety by committing ritual suicide after leading a failed military coup in 1970. He left behind a highly respectable, if at times melodramatic, body of literature, including some of Japan’s finest postwar novels.

Murakami Ryū Almost Transparent Blue, Sixty-nine and Coin Locker Babies. Murakami burst onto Japan’s literary scene in the mid-1980s with Almost Transparent Blue, a tale of student life mixing reality and fantasy. Sixty-nine is his semi-autobiographical account of a 17-year-old stirred by rebellion. Coin Locker Babies is his most ambitious work – a revenger’s tragedy about the lives of two boys dumped in adjacent coin lockers as babies.

Kirino Natsuo Out. Four women working in a bentō factory just outside Tokyo discover that committing murder is both easier and much more complicated than they could ever have imagined, in this dark, superior thriller that mines a very dark seam of Japan’s underbelly. Follow-up books are Grotesque, about the deaths of two Tokyo prostitutes, and Real World, a grim thriller about alienated Japanese teenagers.

Ōe Kenzaburō Nip the Buds. Winner of Japan’s second Nobel prize for literature in 1994. Nip the Buds, his first full-length novel, published in 1958, is a tale of lost innocence concerning fifteen schoolboys evacuated in wartime to a remote mountain village and left to fend for themselves when a threatening plague frightens away the villagers. Shiba Ryōtarō Clouds Above The Hill. This best-selling epic novel of the modernization of Japan and the Russo-Japanese War has only recently been translated into English. The four-volume set is enthralling reading and shows the hope and vision of the Meiji reformers.

Tsujihara Noboru Jasmine. Nicely written adventure and suspense novel which explores the relationships between a Japanese man and a Chinese woman, linking the Tiananmen Massacre of 1989 to the 1995 Kōbe earthquake and the touchy issue of Sino–Japanese relations.

Yu Miri Tokyo Ueno Station. Excellent novel from the pen of an inventive Korean-Japanese writer, telling the story of a homeless man who haunts Ueno Park after his death at the adjacent metro station.

HARUKI MURAKAMI

One of Japan’s most entertaining and translated contemporary writers, Haruki Murakami has been hailed as a postwar successor to the great novelists Mishima, Kawabata and Tanizaki, and talked of as a future Nobel laureate.

Many of Murakami’s books are set in Tokyo, drawing on his time studying at Waseda University in the early 1970s and running a jazz bar, a place that became a haunt for literary types and, no doubt, provided inspiration for his jazz-bar-running hero in the bittersweet novella South of the Border, West of the Sun. A good introduction to Murakami is Norwegian Wood, a book in two volumes about the tender coming-of-age love story of two students, which has sold over five million copies.

Considered among his best works are The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle, a hefty yet dazzling cocktail of mystery, war reportage and philosophy, and the surreal Kafka on the Shore, a murder story in which cats talk to people and fish rain from the sky. His 2011 mega-opus is 1Q84, a complex tale of cults and assassins set in 1984 that unravels over more than 1000 pages.

For a wonderful insight into what makes this publicity-shy author tick, read his brief memoir about running marathons and writing, What I Talk About When I Talk About Running.

JAPAN IN FOREIGN FICTION

Ellis Avery The Teahouse Fire. Set in the tea ceremony world of Kyoto in the late nineteenth century, this elegantly written novel is told through the eyes of a young American woman who is orphaned and then adopted by a family of tea masters. A fascinating portrait of women’s lives and the political upheavals of Meiji Japan.

Alan Brown Audrey Hepburn’s Neck. Beneath this rib-tickling, acutely observed tale of a young guy from the sticks adrift in big-city Tokyo, Brown weaves several important themes, including the continuing impact of World War II and the confused relationships between the Japanese and gaijin.

William Gibson Idoru. Love in the age of the computer chip. Cyberpunk novelist Gibson’s sci-fi vision of Tokyo’s hi-tech future – a world of non-intrusive DNA checks at airports and computerized pop icons (the idoru of the title) – rings disturbingly true.

Arthur Golden Memoirs of a Geisha. Rags to riches potboiler following the progress of Chiyo from her humble beginnings in a Japanese fishing village through training as a geisha in Kyoto to moving to New York.

Barry Lancet Japantown. Thriller set in San Francisco and Tokyo that follows an antique-dealer as he sets out to solve the murder of a Japanese family. Lots of detailed cultural references and interesting plot twists make this a fun and informative read.

David Mitchell Ghostwritten, number9dream and The Thousand Autumns of Jacob De Zoet. Mitchell lived in Japan for several years, a fact that is reflected in three of his novels. Ghostwritten is a dazzling collection of interlocked short stories, a couple of which are based in Japan. number9dream conjures up a postmodern Japan of computer hackers, video games, gangsters and violence. His latest, The Thousand Autumns of Jacob De Zoet, is a fascinating historical novel focusing on life on Nagasaki’s island enclave of Dejima – the only place Europeans were allowed to live in Japan during the Tokugawa era.

David Peace Tokyo Year Zero and Occupied City. The first two instalments in Peace’s crime trilogy set in Tokyo immediately after the end of World War II. Never an easy read, Peace’s novels nonetheless impress some with their attention to detail, complex plots and compelling characters.

< Back to Context

Japanese

Picking up a few words of Japanese is not difficult. Pronunciation is simple and standard and there are few exceptions to the straightforward grammar rules. With a just a little effort, you should be able to read the words spelled out in hiragana and katakana, Japanese phonetic characters, even if you can’t understand them. And any time spent learning Japanese will be amply rewarded by delighted locals, who’ll always politely comment on your fine linguistic ability.

That said, it does take a very great effort to master Japanese. The primary stumbling block is the thousands of kanji characters (Chinese ideograms) that need to be memorized, most of which have at least two pronunciations, depending on the sentence and their combination with other characters. Also tricky are the language’s multiple levels of politeness, married with different sets of words used by men and women, as well as different dialects involving whole new vocabularies.

Japanese characters

Japanese is written in a combination of three systems. To be able to read a newspaper, you’ll need to know around two thousand kanji – even more difficult than it sounds, since what each one means varies with its context.

The easier writing systems to pick up are the phonetic syllabaries, hiragana and katakana. Both have 46 regular characters and can be learned within a couple of weeks. Hiragana is used for Japanese words, while katakana, with the squarer characters, is used mainly for “loan words” borrowed from other languages (especially English) and technical names. Rōmaji, the roman script used to spell out Japanese words, is also used in advertisements and magazines.

The first five letters in hiragana and katakana (a, i, u, e, o) are the vowel sounds. The remainder are a combination of a consonant and a vowel (eg ka, ki, ku, ke, ko), with the exception of n, the only consonant that exists on its own. While hiragana provides an exact phonetic reading of all Japanese words, katakana does not do the same for foreign loan words. Often words are abbreviated, hence television becomes terebi and sexual harassment sekuhara. Sometimes, they become almost unrecognizable, as with kakuteru (cocktail).

Traditionally, Japanese is written in vertical columns and read right to left. However, the Western way of writing from left to right, horizontally from top to bottom is increasingly common. In the media and on signs you’ll see a mixture of the two ways of writing.

Grammar

In Japanese, verbs do not change according to the person or number, so that ikimasu can mean “I go”, “he/she/it goes”, or “we/they go”. Pronouns are usually omitted, since it’s generally clear from the context who or what the speaker is referring to. There are no definite articles, and nouns stay the same whether they refer to singular or plural words.

Compared to English grammar, Japanese sentences are structured back to front. An English-speaker would say “I am going to Tokyo” which in Japanese would translate directly as “Tokyo to going”. Placing the sound “ka” at the end of a phrase indicates a question, hence Tokyo e ikimasu-ka means “Are you going to Tokyo?” There are also levels of politeness to contend with, which alter the way the verb is conjugated, and sometimes change the word entirely. Stick to the polite -masu form of verbs which we use in this chapter and you should be fine.

Japanese: A Rough Guide Phrasebook includes essential phrases and expressions and a dictionary section and menu reader. The phonetic translations in the phrasebook are rendered slightly differently from the standard way rōmaji is written in this book, as an aid to pronunciation.

Pronunciation

Japanese words in this book have been transliterated into the standard Hepburn system of romanization, called rōmaji. Pronunciation is as follows:

a as in cat
i as in macaroni, or ee
u as in put, or oo
e as in bed; e is always pronounced, even at the end of a word
o as in not
ae as in the two separate sounds, ah-eh
ai as in Thai
ei as in weight
ie as in two separate sounds, ee-eh
ue as in two separate sounds, oo-eh
g, a hard sound as in girl
s as in mass (never z)

y as in yet

A bar (macron) over a vowel or “ii” means that the vowel sound is twice as long as a vowel without a bar. Only where words are well known in English, such as Tokyo, Kyoto, judo and shogun, have we not used a bar to indicate long vowel sounds. Sometimes, vowel sounds are shortened or softened; for example, the verb desu sounds more like des when pronounced, and sukiyaki like skiyaki. Some syllables are also softened or hardened by the addition of a small ° or ” above the character; for example, ka (か) becomes ga (が) and ba (ば) becomes pa (ぱ). Likewise a smaller-case ya, yu or yo following a character alters its sound, such as kya (きゃ) and kyu (きゅ). All syllables are evenly stressed and pronounced in full. For example, Nagano is Na-ga-no, not Na-GA-no.

Wherever there’s a double consonant (eg tetsudatte), pause for a moment before saying it. It’s somewhat like a glottal stop, and, as always, the best way to learn it is to listen out for it. When you see “tch” (eg matcha), pronounce it as ch as in chair.

USEFUL WORDS AND PHRASES

BASICS
yes hai はい
no iie/chigaimasu いいえ／違います
ok daijōbu/ōkē 大丈夫／オーケー
please (offering something) dōzo どうぞ
please (asking for something) onegai shimasu

お願いします

Excuse me sumimasen/shitsurei shimasu すみません／失礼します

I’m sorry gomen nasai/sumimasen ごめんなさい／

すみません

Thanks (informal) dōmo どうも

Thank you arigatō ありがとう

Thank you very much dōmo arigatō gozaimasu

どうもありがとうございます

What? nani? ない／何

When? itsu? いつ

Where? doko? どこ

JAPANESE SCRIPT IN THE GUIDE

To help you find your way around, in the Guide we’ve included Japanese script for all places covered, as well as sights, hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars and shops where there is no prominent English sign. Where the English name for a point of interest is very different from its Japanese name, we’ve also provided the rōmaji, so you can pronounce the Japanese.

Who? dare? だれ
this kore これ
that sore それ
that (over there) are あれ

How many? ikutsu? いくつ

How much? ikura? いくら

I don’t want/need (x) Watashi wa (x) ga hoshii desu

私は(x)が欲しいです

I don’t want (x) Watashi wa (x) ga irimasen

私は(x)がいりません

Is it possible…? …koto ga dekimasu ka

。。。ことができますか

It is not possible …koto ga dekimasen

。。。ことができません

Is it…? …desu ka 。。。ですか

Can you please help me? Tetsudatte kuremasen ka

手伝ってくれませんか

I don’t speak Japanese Nihongo ga hanasemasen

日本語は話せません

I don’t read Japanese Nihongo ga yomemasen

日本語は読めません

Can you speak English? Eigo ga dekimasu ka

英語ができますか

Is there someone who can interpret? Tsūyaku wa imasu ka 通訳はいますか

Could you please speak more slowly? Motto yukkuri hanashite kuremasen ka

もっとゆっくり話してくれませんか

Please say that again Mō ichido yutte kuremasen ka

もう一度言ってくれませんか

I understand/I see Wakarimasu/Naruhodo

わかります／なるほど

I don’t understand Wakarimasen 分かりません

What does this mean? Kore wa dō iyu imi desu ka

これはどういう意味ですか

How do you say (x) in Japanese? Nihongo de (x) o nan-to iimasu ka 日本語で(x)を何と言いますか

What’s this called? Kore wa nan-to iimasu ka

これは何と言いますか

How do you pronounce this character? Kono kanji wa nan-to yomimasu ka この漢字は何と読みますか

Please write in English/Japanese Eigo/Nihongo de kaite kudasai 英語／日本語で書いてください

PERSONAL PRONOUNS

I watashi 私

I (familiar, men only) boku/ore 僕/俺
you anata あなた
you (familiar) kimi 君
he kare 彼
she kanojo 彼女
we watashi-tachi 私たち
you (plural) anata-tachi あなたたち
they (male/female) karera/kanojo-tachi 彼ら／彼女たち
they (objects) sorera それら

GREETINGS AND BASIC COURTESIES

Hello/Good day Konnichiwa 今日は

Good morning Ohayō gozaimasu おはようございます

Good evening Konbanwa 今晩は

Good night (when leaving) Osaki ni お先に

Good night (when going to bed) Oyasuminasai

おやすみなさい

How are you? O-genki desu ka お元気ですか

I’m fine (informal) Genki desu 元気です

I’m fine, thanks Okagesama de おかげさまで

How do you do/Nice to meet you Hajimemashite

はじめまして

Don’t mention it/You’re welcome Dō itashimashite

どういたしまして

I’m sorry Gomen nasai ごめんなさい

Just a minute please Chotto matte kudasai

ちょっと待ってください

Goodbye Sayonara/sayōnara さよなら/さようなら

Goodbye (informal) Dewa mata/Jā ne

では又／じゃあね

CHITCHAT

What’s your name? Shitsurei desu ga o-namae wa

失礼ですがお名前は

My name is (x) Watashi no namae wa (x) desu

私の名前は(x)です

Where are you from? O-kuni wa doko desu ka

お国はどこですか

Britain Eikoku/Igirisu 英国／イギリス

Ireland Airurando アイルランド

America Amerika アメリカ

Australia Ōsutoraria オーストラリア

Canada Kanada カナダ

France Furansu フランス

Germany Doitsu ドイツ

New Zealand Nyū Jiirando ニュージーランド

Japan Nihon 日本

Outside Japan Gaikoku 外国

How old are you? O-ikutsu desu ka おいくつですか

I am (age) (age) sai desu (age) 才です/ (age)歳です

Are you married? Kekkon shite imasu ka

結婚していますか

I am married/not married Kekkon shite imasu/imasen 結婚しています／いません

Do you like…? …suki desu ka 。。。好きですか

I do like …suki desu 。。。好きです

I don’t like …suki dewa arimasen

。。。好きではありません

What’s your job? O-shigoto wa nan desu ka

お仕事は何ですか

I’m a student Gakusei desu 学生です

I’m a teacher Sensei desu 先生です

KATAKANA AND HIRAGANA

Katakana and hiragana are two phonetic syllabaries represented by the characters shown below. Katakana, the characters in the first table, are generally used for writing foreign “loan words”. The characters in the bottom table, hiragana, are generally used for Japanese words, in combination with, or as substitutes for, kanji.

KATAKANA

a ア | i イ | u ウ | e エ | o オ
ka カ | ki キ | ku ク | ke ケ | ko コ
sa サ | shi シ | su ス | se セ | so ソ
ta タ | chi チ | tsu ツ | te テ | to ト
na ナ | ni ニ | nu ヌ | ne ネ | no ノ
ha ハ | hi ヒ | fu フ | he ヘ | ho ホ
ma マ | mi ミ | mu ム | me メ | mo モ
ya ヤ | | yu ユ | | yo ヨ
ra ラ | ri リ | ru ル | re レ | ro ロ
wa ワ | | | | wo ヲ
n ン | | | |

HIRAGANA

a あ | i い | u う | e え | o お
ka か | ki き | ku く | ke け | ko こ
sa さ | shi し | su す | se せ | so そ
ta た | chi ち | tsu つ | te て | to と
na な | ni に | nu ぬ | ne ね | no の
ha は | hi ひ | fu ふ | he へ | ho ほ
ma ま | mi み | mu む | me め | mo も
ya や | | yu ゆ | | yo よ
ra ら | ri り | ru る | re れ | ro ろ
wa わ | | | | wo を

I work for a company Kaisha-in desu 会社員です

I’m a tourist Kankō kyaku desu 観光客です

Really? Hontō/Hontō ni 本当/本当に

That’s a shame Zannen desu 残念です

It can’t be helped (formal/informal) Shikata ga nai/shō ga nai 仕方がない／しょうがない

NUMBERS

There are special ways of counting different things in Japanese. The most common first translation is used when counting time and quantities and measurements, with added qualifiers such as minutes (pun/fun) or yen (en). The second translations are sometimes used for counting objects. From ten, there is only one set of numbers. For zero, four and seven, alternatives to the first translation are used in some circumstances.

zero zero/rei ない／何 ない／何
one ichi hitotsu 一 ひとつ
two ni futatsu 二 ふたつ
three san mittsu 三 みっつ
four yon/shi yottsu 四 よっつ
five go itsutsu 五 いつつ
six roku muttsu 六 むっつ
seven shichi/nana nanatsu 七 ななつ
eight hachi yattsu 八 やっつ
nine kyū kokonotsu 九 ここのつ
ten jū tō 十 とう
eleven jū-ichi 十一
twelve jū-ni 十二
twenty ni-jū 二十
twenty-one ni-jū-ichi 二十一
thirty san-jū 三十
one hundred hyaku 百
two hundred ni-hyaku 二百
thousand sen 千
ten thousand ichi-man 一万
one hundred thousand jū-man 十万
one million hyaku-man 百万
one hundred million ichi-oku 一億

TIME AND DATES
now ima 今
today kyō 今日
morning asa 朝
evening yūgata 夕方
night yoru/ban 夜/晩
tomorrow ashita 明日
the day after tomorrow asatte あさって
yesterday kinō 昨日
week shū 週
month gatsu/tsuki/getsu 月
year nen/toshi 年

Monday Getsuyōbi 月曜日

Tuesday Kayōbi 火曜日

Wednesday Suiyōbi 水曜日

Thursday Mokuyōbi 木曜日

Friday Kin’yōbi 金曜日

Saturday Doyōbi 土曜日

Sunday Nichiyōbi 日曜日

What time is it? Ima nan-ji desu ka 今何時ですか

It’s 10 o’clock Jū-ji desu 十時です

...10.20 Jū-ji ni-juppun 十時二十分

...10.30 Jū-ji han 十時半

...10.50 Jū-ichi-ji juppun mae 十一時十分前

AM gozen 午前

PM gogo 午後

January Ichigatsu 一月

February Nigatsu 二月

March Sangatsu 三月

April Shigatsu 四月

May Gogatsu 五月

June Rokugatsu 六月

July Shichigatsu 七月

August Hachigatsu 八月

September Kugatsu 九月

October Jūgatsu 十月

November Jūichigatsu 十一月

December Jūnigatsu 十二月

1st (day) tsuitachi 一日

2nd (day) futsuka 二日

3rd (day) mikka 三日

4th (day) yokka 四日

5th (day) itsuka 五日

6th (day) muika 六日

7th (day) nanoka 七日

8th (day) yōka 八日

9th (day) kokonoka 九日

10th (day) tōka 十日

11th (day) jū-ichi-nichi 十一日

12th (day) jū-ni-nichi 十二日

20th (day) hatsuka 二十日

21st (day) ni-jū-ichi nichi 二十一日

30th (day) san-jū-nichi 三十日

GETTING AROUND
aeroplane hikōki 飛行機
airport kūkō 空港
bus basu バス
long-distance bus chōkyori basu 長距離バス
bus stop basu tei バス停
train densha 電車
station eki 駅
subway chikatetsu 地下鉄
ferry ferii フェリー
left-luggage office azukarijo 預かり所
coin locker koin rokkā コインロッカー
ticket office kippu uriba 切符売り場
ticket kippu 切符
one-way kata-michi 片道
return ōfuku 往復
non-smoking seat kin’en seki 禁煙席
window seat mado-gawa no seki 窓側の席
platform hōmu/purattofōmu ホーム/プラットフォーム
bicycle jitensha 自転車
taxi takushii タクシー
map chizu 地図

Where is (x)? (x) wa doko desu ka (x)はどこですか
straight ahead massugu まっすぐ
in front of mae 前
right migi 右
left hidari 左
north kita 北
south minami 南
east higashi 東
west nishi 西
entrance iriguchi 入口
exit deguchi/-guchi 出口／−口
highway kaidō 街道
street tōri/dōri/michi 通り／道

PLACES
temple otera/-dera/-ji/-in お寺／−寺／−院
shrine jinja/jingū/-gū/-taisha 神社／神宮／−宮／

−大社
castle shiro/-jō 城
park kōen 公園
river kawa/gawa 川
bridge hashi/-bashi 橋
museum hakubutsukan 博物館
art museum bijutsukan 美術館
garden niwa/teien/-en 庭／庭園／−園
island shima/-jima/-tō 島
slope saka/-zaka 坂
hill oka 丘
mountain yama/-san/-take 山／岳
hot spring spa onsen 温泉
lake -ko 湖
bay -wan 湾
peninsula hantō 半島
cape misaki/saki 岬
sea umi/kai/nada 海／灘
gorge kyō 峡
plateau kōgen 高原
prefecture -ken/-fu 県／府
ward -ku 区
shop mise/-ten/-ya 店／屋

ACCOMMODATION
hotel hoteru ホテル
traditional-style inn ryokan 旅館
guesthouse minshuku 民宿
youth hostel yūsu hosuteru ユースホステル
single room shinguru rūmu シングルルーム
double room daburu rūmu ダブルルーム
twin room tsuin rūmu ツインルーム
dormitory kyōdō/ōbeya 共同／大部屋

Japanese-style room washitsu 和室

Western-style room yōshitsu 洋室

Western-style bed beddo ベッド
bath o-furo お風呂

Do you have any vacancies? Kūshitsu wa arimasu ka 空室はありますか

I’d like to make a reservation Yoyaku o shitai no desu ga 予約をしたいのですが

I have a reservation Yoyaku shimashita 予約しました

I don’t have a reservation Yoyaku shimasen deshita

予約しませんでした

How much is it per person? Hitori ikura desu ka

一人いくらですか

Does that include meals? Shokuji wa tsuite imasu ka 食事はついていますか

I would like to stay one night/two nights Hitoban/futaban tomaritai no desu ga

一晩／二晩泊まりたいのです/が

I would like to see the room Heya o misete kudasaimasen ka 部屋を見せてくださいませんか
key kagi 鍵
passport pasupōto パスポート

SHOPPING, MONEY AND BANKS
shop mise/-ten/-ya 店／屋

How much is it? Kore wa ikura desu ka

これはいくらですか

It’s too expensive Taka-sugimasu 高すぎます

Is there anything cheaper? Mō sukoshi yasui mono wa arimasu ka もう少し安いものはありますか

Do you accept credit cards? Kurejitto kādo ga tsukaemasu ka クレジットカードが使えますか

I’m just looking Miru dake desu 見るだけです
gift/souvenir omiyage お土産
foreign exchange ryogae 両替
bank ginkō 銀行

INTERNET, POST AND TELEPHONES
internet intānetto インターネット
post office yūbinkyoku 郵便局
envelope fūtō 封筒
letter tegami 手紙
postcard hagaki/ehagaki 葉書/絵葉書
stamp kitte 切手
airmail kōkūbin 航空便
telephone denwa 電話
international telephone call kokusai-denwa 国際電話
reverse charge/collect call korekuto-kōru

コレクトコール
mobile phone keitai-denwa/keitai 携帯電話/携帯
fax fakkusu ファックス
telephone card terefon kādo テレフォンカード

I would like to call (place) (place) e denwa o kaketai no desu (place) へ電話をかけたいのです

I would like to send a fax to (place) (place) e fakkusu shitai no desu (place) へファックスしたいのです

HEALTH
hospital byōin 病院
pharmacy yakkyoku 薬局
medicine kusuri 薬
doctor isha/o-isha-san 医者/お医者さん
dentist haisha 歯医者
diarrhoea geri 下痢
fever netsu 熱
food poisoning shoku chūdoku 食中毒

I’m ill byōki desu 病気です

I’ve got a cold/flu kaze o hikimashita 風邪を引きました

I’m allergic to (x) (x) arerugii desu (x) アレルギーです
antibiotics kōsei busshitsu 抗生物質
antiseptic shōdoku 消毒

FOOD AND DRINK

PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
bar nomiya 飲み屋
standing-only bar tachinomiya 立ち飲み屋
café/coffee shop kissaten 喫茶店
cafeteria shokudō 食堂
pub pabu パブ
pub-style restaurant izakaya 居酒屋
restaurant resutoran レストラン
restaurant specializing in robatayaki charcoal-grilled foods 炉端焼
street food stall yatai 屋台

ORDERING
breakfast asa-gohan 朝ご飯
lunch hiru-gohan 昼ご飯
dinner ban-gohan/yūshoku 晩ご飯/夕食
boxed meal bentō 弁当
chopsticks hashi はし
fork fōku フォーク
knife naifu ナイフ
spoon supūn スプーン
set meal teishoku 定食
daily special set meal higawari-teishoku 日替り定食
menu menyū メニュー

Do you have an English menu? eigo no menyū ga arimasu ka 英語のメニューがありますか

How much is that? ikura desu ka いくらですか

I would like (a)… (a) …o onegai shimasu

(a)をお願いします

May I have the bill? okanjō o onegai shimasu

お勘定をお願いします

STAPLE FOODS
oil abura 油
butter batā バター
rice gohan ご飯
pepper koshō こしょう
fermented soybean paste miso 味噌
garlic ninniku にんにく
dried seaweed nori のり
bread pan パン
sugar satō 砂糖
salt shio 塩
soy sauce shōyu しょうゆ
egg tamago 卵
bean curd tofu tōfu 豆腐

FISH AND SEAFOOD DISHES
horse mackerel aji あじ
abalone awabi あわび
sweet fish ayu あゆ
yellowtail buri ぶり
sushi topped with fish, chirashi-zushi egg and vegetables ちらし寿司
prawn ebi えび
blowfish fugu ふぐ
squid ika いか
lobster ise-ebi 伊勢海老
shellfish kai 貝
oyster kaki かき
crab kani かに
tuna maguro まぐろ
sushi rolled in crisp seaweed maki-zushi まき寿司
bite-size portion of sushi nigiri-zushi rice with topping にぎり寿司
herring nishin にしん
fish sakana 魚
raw fish sashimi さしみ
sushi sushi 寿司
sea bream tai たい
octopus tako たこ/タコ
cod tara たら
eel unagi うなぎ
sea urchin uni うに

FRUIT
banana banana バナナ
grapes budō ぶどう
grapefruit gurēpufurūtsu グレープフルーツ
strawberry ichigo いちご
persimmon kaki 柿
fruit kudamono 果物
melon meron メロン
tangerine mikan みかん
peach momo 桃
pear nashi なし
orange orenji オレンジ
pineapple painappuru パイナップル
lemon remon レモン
apple ringo りんご
watermelon suika すいか

Japanese plum ume うめ

VEGETABLES
radish daikon 大根
cauliflower karifurawā カリフラワー
mushroom kinoko きのこ
sweetcorn kōn コーン
beans mame 豆
beansprouts moyashi もやし
aubergine nasu なす
leek negi ねぎ
carrot ninjin にんじん
green pepper piiman ピーマン
potato poteto/jagaimo ポテト、じゃがいも
salad sarada サラダ
onion tamanegi たまねぎ
tomato tomato トマト
green horseradish wasabi わさび
vegetables yasai 野菜

MEAT AND MEAT DISHES
pork butaniku 豚肉
beef gyūniku 牛肉
skewers of food dipped in kushiage breadcrumbs and deep-fried 串揚げ
stew including meat (or seafood), nabe vegetables and noodles 鍋
meat niku 肉
lamb ramu ラム
thin beef slices cooked in broth shabu-shabu

しゃぶしゃぶ
thin beef slices braised in a sauce sukiyaki

すきやき
breaded, deep-fried slice of pork tonkatsu

とんかつ
chicken toriniku 鶏肉
grilled meat yakiniku 焼肉
chicken, grilled on skewers yakitori 焼き鳥

VEGETARIAN AND NOODLE DISHES

Chinese-style dumplings gyōza ぎょうざ
soba in a hot soup kake-soba かけそば
stewed chunks of vegetables oden and fish on skewers おでん

Chinese-style noodles rāmen ラーメン

Buddhist-style vegetarian cuisine shōjin-ryōri

精進料理
thin buckwheat noodles soba そば
thick wheat noodles udon うどん
fried noodles yakisoba/yakiudon 焼そば／焼うどん
cold soba served with zaru-soba/mori-soba a dipping sauce ざるそば／もりそば

OTHER DISHES
fried rice chāhan チャーハン

Chinese food Chūka-/Chūgoku-ryōri 中華／中国料理
rice topped with fish, donburi meat or vegetable

どんぶり

French food Furansu-ryōri フランス料理

Italian food Itaria-ryōri イタリア料理

Japanese haute cuisine kaiseki-ryōri 懐石料理

Korean food Kankoku-ryōri 韓国料理
curry served with rice karē raisu カレーライス
pounded rice cakes mochi もち

“no-nationality” food mukokuseki-ryōri 無国籍料理
fermented soybeans nattō 納豆
savoury pancakes okonomiyaki お好み焼き
rice triangles wrapped in onigiri crisp seaweed

おにぎり

Thai food Tai-ryōri タイ料理
octopus in balls of batter takoyaki たこ焼き
lightly battered seafood tempura and vegetables 天ぷら
meat, vegetable and fish cooked teriyaki in soy sauce and sweet sake 照り焼き

Japanese-style food washoku 和食

Western-style food yōshoku 洋食

DRINKS
beer biiru ビール
fruit juice jūsu ジュース
black tea kōcha 紅茶
coffee kōhii コーヒー
powdered green tea matcha 抹茶
milk miruku ミルク
water mizu 水
whisky and water mizu-wari 水割り
sake (rice wine) sake/nihon-shu 酒／日本酒
green tea sencha 煎茶
distilled liquor shōchū 焼酎
whisky uisukii ウイスキー

Oolong tea ūron-cha ウーロン茶
wine wain ワイン

< Back to Context

Glossary
aikido A form of self-defence recognized as a sport.

ANA All Nippon Airways.

anime Japanese animation.

banzai Traditional cheer, meaning “10,000 years”.

basho Sumo tournament.

benten or benzai-ten One of the most popular folk-goddesses, usually associated with water.

bentō Lunch box of rice, fish, vegetables and pickles.

bodhisattva or bosatsu A Buddhist intermediary who has forsaken nirvana to work for the salvation of all humanity.

bunraku Traditional puppet theatre.

Butō or Butoh Highly expressive contemporary performance art.

cha-no-yu, chadō or sadō The tea ceremony. Ritual tea drinking raised to an art form.

-chō or -machi Subdivision of a city, smaller than a -ku.

-chōme Area of the city consisting of a few blocks.

daimyō Feudal lords.

Dainichi Nyorai or Rushana Butsu The Cosmic Buddha in whom all Buddhas are unified.

-dake Mountain peak, usually volcanic.

DPJ Democratic Party of Japan.

Edo Pre-1868 name for Tokyo.

ema Small wooden boards found at shrines, on which people write their wishes or thanks.

fusuma Paper-covered sliding doors, more substantial than shōji, used to separate rooms or for cupboards.

futon Padded quilt used for bedding.

gagaku Traditional Japanese music used for court ceremonies and religious rites.

gaikokujin or gaijin Foreigner.

geisha Traditional female entertainer accomplished in the arts.

genkan Foyer or entrance hall of a house, ryokan and so forth, for changing from outdoor shoes into slippers.

genki Lively and/or healthy, friendly.

geta Traditional wooden sandals.

haiku Seventeen-syllable verse form, arranged in three lines of five, seven and five syllables.

hanami “Flower-viewing”; most commonly associated with spring outings to admire the cherry blossom.

hashi Chopsticks.

-hashi or -bashi Bridge.

hiragana Phonetic script used for writing Japanese in combination with kanji.

ijinkan Western-style brick and clapboard houses.

ikebana Traditional art of flower arranging.

Inari Shintō god of harvests, often represented by his fox-messenger.

JAL Japan Airlines.

-ji Buddhist temple.

jigoku The word for Buddhist “hell”, also applied to volcanic mud pools and steam vents.

-jinja or -jingū Shintō shrine.

Jizō Buddhist protector of children, travellers and the dead.

JNTO Japan National Tourist Organization.

-jō Castle.

JR Japan Railways.

kabuki Popular theatre of the Edo period.

kami Shintō deities residing in trees, rocks and other natural phenomena.

Kamikaze The “Divine Wind” which saved Japan from the Mongol invaders. During World War II the name was applied to Japan’s suicide bombers.

kanji Japanese script derived from Chinese characters.

Kannon Buddhist goddess of mercy. A bodhisattva who appears in many different forms.

katakana Phonetic script used mainly for writing foreign words in Japanese.

-kawa or -gawa River.

-ken Prefecture. The principal administrative region, similar to a state or county.

kendo Japan’s oldest martial art, using wooden staves, with its roots in samurai training exercises.

kimono Literally “clothes”, though usually referring to women’s traditional dress.

-ko Lake.

kōban Neighbourhood police box.

kōen or gyoen Public park.

kōgen Plateau, or highlands.

konbini Convenience store.

-ku Principal administrative division of the city, usually translated as “ward”.

kura Traditional storehouse built with thick mud walls as protection against fire, for keeping produce and family treasures.

kyōgen Short, satirical plays, providing comic interludes in nō drama.

LDP Liberal Democratic Party.

-machi Town or area of a city.

maiko Apprentice geisha.

manga Japanese comics.

matcha Powdered green tea used in the tea ceremony.

matsuri Festival.

Meiji Period named after Emperor Meiji (1868–1912), meaning “enlightened rule”.

Meiji Restoration End of the Tokugawa Shogunate, when power was fully restored to the emperor.

mikoshi Portable shrine used in festivals.

minshuku Family-run lodgings which are cheaper than ryokan.

mon Gate, usually to a castle, temple or palace.

mura Village.

netsuke Small, intricately carved toggles for fastening the cords of cloth bags.

ningyō Japanese doll.

nō Highly stylized dance-drama, using masks and elaborate costumes.

noren Split curtain hanging in shop and restaurant doorways to indicate they’re open.

notemburo Outdoor hot-spring pool, usually in natural surroundings.

obi Wide sash worn with kimono.

odori Traditional dances performed in the streets during the summer Obon festival.

onsen Hot spring, generally developed for bathing.

pachinko Vertical pinball machines.

pond-garden Classic form of garden design focused around a pond.

rōmaji System of transliterating Japanese words using the roman alphabet.

rōnin Masterless samurai.

rotemburo Outdoor hot-spring pool, often in the grounds of a ryokan.

ryokan Traditional Japanese inn.

salarymen Office workers who keep Japan’s companies and ministries ticking over.

samurai Warrior class who were retainers of the daimyō.

SDF (Self-Defence Forces) Japan’s army, navy and airforce.

sensei Teacher.

sentō Neighbourhood public bath.

seppuku Ritual suicide by disembowelment, also referred to as harakiri.

Shaka Nyorai The Historical Buddha, Sakyamuni.

shamisen Traditional, three-stringed instrument played with a plectrum.

-shima or -jima Island.

Shinkansen Bullet train.

Shintō Japan’s indigenous animist religion.

Shitamachi Old working-class districts of east Tokyo.

shogun Japan’s military rulers before 1868, nominally subordinate to the emperor.

shōji Paper-covered sliding screens used to divide rooms or cover windows.

shōjin ryōri Buddhist cuisine
shukubō Temple lodgings.

sumi-e Ink paintings, traditionally using black ink.

sumo A form of heavyweight wrestling which evolved from ancient Shintō divination rites.

taiko Drums.

tatami Rice-straw matting, the traditional covering for floors.

tokonoma Alcove in a room where flowers or a scroll are displayed.

torii Gate to a Shintō shrine.

ukiyo-e Colourful woodblock prints.

waka Thirty-one-syllable poem, arranged in five lines of five, seven, five, seven and seven syllables.

washi Traditional handmade paper.

Yakushi Nyorai The Buddha in charge of physical and spiritual healing.

yakuza Professional criminal gangs, somewhat akin to the Mafia.

yamabushi Ascetic mountain priests.

yokozuna Champion sumo wrestler.

yukata Cotton kimono usually worn in summer, and after a bath.

< Back to Context

Small print

Small print

About the authors

Map symbols

A ROUGH GUIDE TO ROUGH GUIDES

Published in 1982, the first Rough Guide – to Greece – was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, had been travelling in Greece the previous summer and couldn’t find the right guidebook. With a small group of friends he wrote his own guide, combining a contemporary, journalistic style with a thoroughly practical approach to travellers’ needs.

The immediate success of the book spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. And, in addition to impecunious backpackers, Rough Guides soon acquired a much broader readership that relished the guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach and value-for-money ethos. These days, Rough Guides include recommendations from budget to luxury and cover more than 120 destinations around the globe, from Amsterdam to Zanzibar, all regularly updated by our team of roaming writers.

Browse all our latest guides, read inspirational features and book your trip at roughguides.com.

Rough Guide credits

Editor: Aimee White

Cartography: Carte

Managing editor: Rachel Lawrence

Picture editor: Aude Vauconsant

Cover photo research: Aude Vauconsant

Senior DTP coordinator: Dan May

Head of DTP and Pre-Press: Rebeka Davies

Layout: Ruth Bradley

Publishing information

Eighth edition 2020

Distribution

UK, Ireland and Europe

Apa Publications (UK) Ltd; sales@roughguides.com

United States and Canada

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Help us update

We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that this edition of The Rough Guide to Japan is accurate and up-to-date. However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better.

Please send your comments with the subject line “Rough Guide Japan Update” to mail@uk.roughguides.com. We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails.

Acknowledgements

Rebecca Hallett: Thanks are due to more people than I could possibly remember, but I’ll try… Thanks to Gaby Roberts at Air France/KLM; Valentina Taddeo at JAL; Matt Joslin at the JNTO; Mayumi Tanaka at Kyoto Tourism; Masaya Kusube, Makoto Yamazaki and the dogs at Picchio; Hiroe Shintaku from Karuizawa Tourism; Sarah Coggins, Phoebe Mead and colleagues at Theobald Fox, who did so much to help us; Nao Yamamoto, Terue Willoughby and Arata Ohkubo from Sado; Lizzie Cooper and colleagues at Travel PR, who really went above and beyond; Matt Bola and all the other wonderful folks at Hachinohe Tourism (including honorary employee Karyn); Sophie Morgan at Black Diamond; Mika White of Chapter White; Nishant Annu in Kesennuma; the lovely family (especially Nina, Hana and Lucky) at Yamabiko Farm; Andy Coombs and Zoe Vincent in Fukushima; Eriko Kojima at UDS; Akiko Yamahara and colleagues in Gifu; and everyone else who made this ambitious research trip possible. Aimee, thank you so much for the commission, and putting up with my raging perfectionism! To Satoko and family, Mayu and Mon-chan, Miharu, Phil, Dom, Satoko Utsugi and the other friends we met and made on the way – thank you, you kept us just this side of sane (somehow). And the biggest thanks of all must go to Jonny; I hope you enjoyed learning that Japan has four seasons. Here’s to many more adventures (after a long rest).

Martin Zatko would like to thank all those who assisted him during his trip around Japan (or were simply able to hang out and be great), including Keisuke Yamamoto and the Freshroom team, super-cool Swiss housemates Miri and Milos, Takako and the team at the Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau, Arisa and the team at the Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau, James Mundy and the InsideJapan crew, Ched for the part-time gig as a whisky and sashimi delivery driver, Tomomi for the shisha sessions in Naha, Soyeon for the trip down memory lane in ever-convenient Nakameguro, the kombini dotted around Senkawa for providing alcohol and snacks around the clock, and various seas and oceans for providing all the fish.

Reader’s update

Thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write in with comments and suggestions (and apologies if we’ve inadvertently omitted or misspelt anyone’s name):

Cara Coffyn; Ross Cook; Saori Coster; Marjon van der Does; Gary Foggo; Eva Gunnarsson; Terence Jagger

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Keith Drew A regular traveller to the Far East, Keith Drew is a former Managing Editor at Rough Guides, where his remit included much of Asia. He now runs the family-travel website lijoma.com, creating inspirational itineraries and providing expert advice on the practicalities of travelling with children.

Rebecca Hallett ( rebeccahallett.com) is a UK-based travel writer and editor, who most often writes about Japan. Having studied Japanese at university, lived in Kyoto and wandered around from Hokkaido to Kyushu, she now focuses on helping people explore the less-travelled parts of the country. She worked on the Kyoto & Nara, Central Honshu and Northern Honshu chapters of this guidebook.

Olivia Lee ( olivia-lee.co.uk) is a British freelance writer, currently based in Singapore. She spent two years living in a rural village in southern Japan, with monkeys and wild boar for neighbours. She has driven across the country from Kyushu to Hokkaido in a campervan, and has returned multiple times since – especially to Hokkaido, which she worked on for this edition of the guide.

Martin Zatko has been in a state of almost continuous motion since 2002, wending his way through 140-odd countries to date, and writing or contributing to almost fifty Rough Guides, including various editions of Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan, Vietnam, Myanmar, India, Turkey, Greece, Morocco and Fiji. Japan keeps drawing him back, and he one day hopes to hitch-hike across the whole country (again).

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Table of Contents

Title

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

Things not to miss

Tailor-made trips

BASICS

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Travel essentials

THE GUIDE

1 Tokyo

2 Around Tokyo

3 Northern Honshū

4 Hokkaidō

5 Central Honshū

6 Kyoto and Nara

7 Kansai

8 Western Honshū

9 Shikoku

10 Kyūshū

11 Okinawa

CONTEXTS

History

Religion

Japanese arts

Music

The environment

Film

Books

Japanese

Glossary

SMALL PRINT