Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei
Author: Winnie Tan
Date: 0101-01-01 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Lonely Planet's Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the region has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Trek through the rainforest to see flying lizards, eat fresh fish with coconut spice atmarkets; all with your trusted travel companion. Inside Lonely Planet's Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei Travel Guide: Lonely Planet's Top Picks - a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them Itineraries help you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs a
Publisher: Lonely Planet

Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Journey Begins Here

Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

National Parks

Beaches & Islands

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

THE GUIDE

Kuala Lumpur

Bukit Bintang & KLCC

Bukit Nanas, Chinatown & Around

Lake Gardens, Bangsar & Around

Beyond the City Centre

Beyond Kuala Lumpur

Places We Love to Stay

Perak & Cameron Highlands

Ipoh

Taiping

Pangkor

Kuala Kangsar

Gerik

Cameron Highlands

Places We Love to Stay

Penang

George Town

Batu Ferringhi & Teluk Bahang

Balik Pulau & the Southern Coast

Seberang Perai

Places We Love to Stay

Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis

Langkawi

Alor Setar

Perlis

Places We Love to Stay

Melaka

Melaka City

Beyond Melaka City

Places We Love to Stay

Johor & Tioman Island

Johor Bahru

Tioman Island

Mersing & the Coast

Places We Love to Stay

Pahang & the Interior

Kuala Lipis

Taman Negara & Jerantut

Kuantan

Places We Love to Stay

Peninsular Malaysia’s Northeast

Kota Bharu

The Perhentian Islands

Kuala Terengganu

Places We Love to Stay

Sabah

Kota Kinabalu

Kinabalu Park

Sandakan & Sepilok

Sungai Kinabatangan

Semporna & the Archipelago

Places We Love to Stay

Sarawak

Kuching

Batang Rajang

Miri

Gunung Mulu National Park

Kelabit Highlands

Places We Love to Stay

Brunei Darussalam

Bandar Seri Begawan

Beyond Bandar Seri Begawan

Places We Love to Stay

Singapore

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

Little India & Kampong Glam

Orchard Road

Holland Village, Botanic Gardens & Dempsey Hill

Eastern Singapore

Northern & Central Singapore

West & Southwest Singapore

Sentosa

Places We Love to Stay

TOOLKIT

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Tropical Tastes

Local Specialities

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Wildlife Wonders

How to Explore the Markets

Nuts & Bolts

Language

STORYBOOK

A History of Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei in 15 Places

Malaysian Popular Music

The High-Speed Railway Saga

Kopitiam Culture

Singapore’s Street Art Scene

This Book

MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & BRUNEI

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Petaling St, Kuala Lumpur | Derekteo/shutterstock ©

As a kid growing up in Malaysia, I thought this side of the world was unremarkable. Kuala Lumpur’s (KL’s) cityscape didn’t hold a candle to the neon-lit Tokyo streets, and I’d trade the beaches and sweltering tropical heat for snow in Nagano. After a decade in Japan, I returned home. All of a sudden, the forests looked greener, the seas bluer and the cities more exciting. The natural sights have always been here, but what I took for granted before was the region’s character and its people – friendly, laid-back and inviting. Through eating the delicious food, exploring the cities and towns, and meeting people to makan (eat) with across the straits and the South China Sea, I rediscover the beauty that was here all along. I can’t wait for you to see it, too.

Winnie Tan

@weeniemon

Winnie is a freelance writer based in KL, and has also contributed to the Lonely Planet Tokyo and Japan guides. She wrote the Kuala Lumpur chapter.

My favourite experience is walking around Petaling St in search of food, tea, and, on weekends, cocktails.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei

Lillian Tveit/shutterstock ©

Sabah is a captivating destination for those interested in Borneo, particularly its wildlife. It’s also very accessible: domestic flights, car hire, buses and taxis are user-friendly, and English is widely spoken. For me, the primary attractions are the tropical rainforests and coral reefs and the myriad colourful creatures that dwell and thrive there.

Lindsay Fegent-Brown

@lindsayfegentbrown

Lindsay is a travel writer, particularly focusing on travel in the Subcontinent, Asia and the Pacific. He wrote the Sabah chapter.

M Stocker/shutterstock ©

Even though I’ve lived here for 15 years, I truly got to know Penang’s hidden corners during the COVID-19 lockdowns. After losing my parents to the virus in Italy, I kept sane with exercise and soothing nature, taking to the hills. Penang Hill is a gateway to the island’s greenest backbone, granting hours of adventurous trekking across different terrain, from durian and flower orchards to million-year-old jungles.

Marco Ferrarese
penang-insider.com

Author and freelance journalist based in Malaysia. This is Marco’s first LP book. He wrote the Penang, Langkawi, Johor and Pahang chapters.

monticello/shutterstock ©

‘Good things come in small packages’ could’ve been coined to describe Singapore – it’s a place I love discovering again and again. The city sometimes feels like it’s hurtling into tomorrow with its futuristic architecture and high-speed efficiency, but just steps off the main drag you’ll discover bustling markets, smoky temples and heritage streets. Then there’s the food: there’s nothing like a perfectly grilled satay and ice-cold Tiger beer.

Ria de Jong

@ria_in_transit

Ria is a travel writer, based in Southeast Asia for 14 years. She wrote the SIngapore chapter.

rijaalfa/shutterstock ©

I love travelling solo, but you really need to visit Melaka with friends so you can eat your way through this tasty city. So much good food, so little stomach space when you’re just one! Whether it’s biting into unctuous balls of chicken rice or slurping up the slippery green noodles of an ice-cold cendol, I only regret not being able to try everything on the menu.

Jaclynn Seah
theoccasionaltraveller.com

A travel writer from Singapore and occasional traveller perpetually juggling work and wanderlust. Jaclynn wrote the Melaka chapter.

Magic Orb Studio/shutterstock ©

A charming and serene town in Perak, Lenggong deserves a closer look. I wish more people knew about the hidden caves where prehistoric stone tools were found and the village that offers boat rides to the picturesque lotus garden on Chenderoh Lake. Worthy of the drive, there’s also the Belum-Temenggor rainforest where hiking to Sungai Kooi waterfall and a visit to an indigenous village await.

Cheng Sim
chengsim.com

A Malaysian travel writer who enjoys nature adventures and playing suitcase Tetris. Cheng wrote the Perak & Cameron Highlands chapter, and Beyond KL.

Syahrin Abdul Aziz/shutterstock ©

Most people are just passing through on their way out to the islands, but Kuala Terengganu rewards those willing to take the time to explore this underrated city. There are teeming markets and a food scene full of Terengganu specialities, plus a mix of wild, quasi-futuristic architecture, as well as hidden vestiges of riverside kampung (village) life from the old days.

Regis St Louis

@regisstlouis

The author of more than 100 travel guides, Regis has spent half a lifetime exploring remote corners of the globe. He wrote the Peninsular Malaysia’s Northeast chapter.

Salparadis/shutterstock ©

No matter how many caves you may have previously visited, I can guarantee that the ones in Gunung Mulu National Park will take your breath way. On an epic scale, these awe-inspiring limestone caverns are among the largest in the world. Crafted by the forces of nature over millions of years, the caves sport incredible rock formations. Plus there’s the thrill of watching some two million bats emerge at dusk from the dark recesses of Deer Cave to hunt for food.

Simon Richmond

@simonrichmond

Writer and photographer Simon has travelled widely across the region and is the author of Lonely Planet’s Eat Malaysia & Singapore. He wrote the Sarawak and Brunei Darussalam chapters.

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Stand in the shadows of well-preserved buildings of the past and you can sense just how deep the roots of heritage are here. From grand specimens of Moorish architecture of the British colonial era, to the beautiful mansions of wealthy Chinese and Peranakan traders of an era older still – these structures are remnants of a rich and storied past, and the key to understanding how history has shaped the region today.

Blue Mansion | Yang Zhen Siang/shutterstock ©

The Colonial Era

Singapore and Malaysia fell under British colonial rule in 1819 and 1824 respectively. Brunei, on the other hand, was considered a protectorate.

Delpixel/shutterstock ©

The Architect

A few of Malaysia’s most recognisable heritage buildings are in a style that represents both Western and Eastern influences, and can be attributed to British architect AB Hubback.

Khoroshunova Olga/shutterstock ©

The Peranakan

When traders of yore sailed to port towns like Melaka and Singapore, they fell in love – the families that formed are known as Peranakan.

BEST HISTORICAL EXPERIENCES

See Malaysia’s most iconic colonial-era structures, like the 1 Sultan Abdul Samad Building, in the heart of Kuala Lumpur (KL).

Admire the magnificent facade of the National Gallery Singapore and other remnants of British colonial architecture at Singapore’s 2 Padang.

Take a peek inside the beautifully preserved 3 Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum in Melaka, modelled after a wealthy Peranakan abode.

Spend a night at the illustrious 4 Blue Mansion in Penang, once owned by Chinese tycoon Cheong Fatt Tze in the 1800s.

Walk around Ipoh and take in the grand heritage buildings like the white 5 Ipoh KTM Railway Station, which was formerly a hospital.

RELICS & TREASURES

See what else lies under the surface of the region’s rich culture and history when you visit its many museums, and spend the afternoon getting to know the region inside and out. Let your footsteps resound as you pad through old corridors and domed halls, and take your time to wander – there are time-worn artefacts, gilded swords, beaded costumes, treasures from across the Islamic world, and so much more waiting to be discovered.

Statue, Asian Civilisations Museum | tristan tan/shutterstock ©

Interesting Architecture

The architecture of the region’s museums is as varied and interesting as the relics and artefacts housed within them – some are attractions in their own right.

Richie Chan/shutterstock ©

Rainy Day Activities

Air-conditioned and usually quiet, museums here are great for when you want a day’s break from the searing heat or torrential rains typical of the region.

r.nagy/shutterstock ©

Explore With a Guide

Get a crash course on history with your museum trip by joining volunteer-led guided tours, available at select museums across the region.

BEST MUSEUM EXPERIENCES

Discover glittering treasures from across the region, from sculptures to recovered items from a shipwreck at Singapore’s 1 Asian Civilisations Museum.

Take a crash course in the history of Malaysia on a guided tour through Kuala Lumpur’s 2 National Museum.

Bask in the magnificence of Islamic art and treasures at 3 Balai Khazanah Islam Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah in Brunei.

Walk the halls of Melaka’s historic Stadthuys building as you learn of the state’s storied past at the 4 History & Ethnography Museum.

Take your time soaking up all of East Malaysia’s vibrant cultures at the sprawling 5 Borneo Cultures Museum in Kuching.

STREET FOOD

Charcoal smoke wafts down the street, a satay vendor fanning the flames as skewers are expertly turned over the embers. A few paces down, a wok clangs loudly over a roaring fire that licks its underside – it’s scenes like this that seem to imbue food here with soul, and few can beat the simple, soulful pleasures of street food. Walk the region’s markets, duck into hawker stalls, sample everything that tickles your fancy – a wonderful culinary journey awaits.

Chicken wings, Jalan Alor | Nalidsa/shutterstock ©

The Pasar

The pasar pagi (morning market) is primarily for meat and produce, while the pasar malam (night market) is where to go for all kinds of good food.

Cash is King

Card and e-payment options may sometimes be available, but many vendors still only take cash – and will count change with impressive speed and accuracy.

BEST STREET FOOD EXPERIENCES

Have a late-night fill of durian, Ramly burgers and chicken wings at renowned KL food street, 1 Jalan Alor.

Taste modern interpretations of hawker food at hawker stalls in 2 Singapore.

Try satay, fritters and all the delicacies Johor has to offer at Glutton Street in 3 Muar.

Savour the pungent, mouthwatering flavours of East Malaysia at Sabah’s lively 4 Kota Kinabalu Night Market.

Eat fragrant char kway teow (stir-fried rice noodles) like a local on the street at Chulia Street Hawker Food in 5 Penang.

ABOVE THE TREES

The rainforest canopy may mostly be inhabited by birds, but you don’t need to be one to see what’s above the treetops of the region’s vast forests. If you aren’t afraid of heights (and don’t mind a little swaying in the wind), a walk high above the forest floor on a canopy walkway is a quintessential experience here – so much so that you’ll even find them just along the outskirts of big cities. Don’t forget to lace up those shoes!

Record Lengths

Though not as high as other similar canopy walks, the Sungai Sedim Tree Top Walk in Kedah, at 925m long, is among the world’s longest.

Abdul Razak Latif/shutterstock ©

Forest Inhabitants

Up in the canopy is often the best place to spot groups of macaques and tropical birds, often active in the earlier part of the day.

Weranut/shutterstock ©

Weather Matters

Keep an eye on the weather forecast (and grey clouds) before planning a trip out – canopy walks close when it rains for your safety.

BEST CANOPY WALK EXPERIENCES

Spot hornbills and macaques from 25m above the forest floor at Sarawak’s 1 Mulu Canopy Skywalk.

Be rewarded with stunning views after a climb atop the 40m-high canopy walk at Brunei’s 2 Ulu Temburong National Park.

Catch city and nature views in equal measure on the forest skywalk at 3 Kepong Botanic Gardens near KL.

Get right in the heart of Sabah’s forests on the canopy walkway, suspended 40m above the jungle floor of the 4 Poring Hot Springs.

See the vast rainforest unfold below as you stand atop the 530m-long canopy walkway at Pahang’s 5 Taman Negara.

CITY SIGHTS

Welcome to some of the world’s most beautiful cities – where glittering skyscrapers weave gorgeous nighttime cityscapes, and green, otherworldly architecture hints at a metropolis of the future. See grand examples of iconic, world-class architecture (or have a view from the top), and explore all the cities’ nooks and crannies – there’s plenty of life and excitement to be found. Despite the bustling nature of these cities, there’s still a chilled, laid-back atmosphere that puts you at ease.

Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur | Shaun.Pillai/shutterstock ©

Better for the Environment

Singapore’s exceedingly well-connected public transport system helps limit carbon emissions, while Kuala Lumpur’s efforts include the electric Go KL City Bus.

Kaizen Digital/shutterstock ©

The Peaceful City

Brunei’s capital is more laid-back and subdued than its counterparts, where grand monuments and riverfront views replace more ostentatious, modern displays.

Amin Kassim/shutterstock ©

Night Owls

Shops in KL and Singapore commonly have long business hours, typically closing at 10pm on weekdays and even later on weekends.

BEST CITY EXPERIENCES

Marvel at Singapore’s futuristic cityscape, best personified by the ethereal 1 Gardens by the Bay.

Look up at the giant 2 Petronas Towers, or glance down at the city of Kuala Lumpur below from its pinnacle.

Take a stroll through Brunei’s laid-back capital, 3 Bandar Seri Begawan, and admire the grand monuments and riverfront views.

Catch a (free!) nighttime spectacle of gushing fountains and projections at Singapore’s iconic 4 Marina Bay Sands.

Go to consumer heaven and shop for everything you might desire at Kuala Lumpur’s premier shopping street, 5 Bukit Bintang.

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

Feel the outside world disappear as you trek into the rainforests and swamps – here, hornbills swoop from the skies and orangutans roam. The real treasures of Peninsular Malaysia and Borneo are the verdant jungles and the precious flora and fauna that inhabit them. Also within these regions are sanctuaries for endangered species – and it’s only when you take a walk on the wild side that you get a rare look at these wondrous creatures.

Turtles, Sandakan | Kjersti Joergensen/shutterstock ©

Man of the Forest

With their human-like limbs and movements, it’s easy to see how the orangutan got its name – a combination of the Malay words orang (human) and hutan (forest).

Thommy TFH/shutterstock ©

Wildlife Sanctuaries

In and around Sandakan and Sepilok is where you’ll find a number of sanctuaries for wildlife, including orangutans, sun bears and proboscis monkeys.

Sabrina Herrmann/shutterstock ©

The Hornbills

While the rhinoceros hornbill is the most recognisable – and Malaysia’s national bird – there are 10 species that can be spotted in the region.

BEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES

Encounter the orangutan at the renowned free-roaming reserve, 1 Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in Sabah.

Quietly witness sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs, and their precious offspring making their way to sea at Sandakan’s 2 Turtle Islands Park.

Get your binoculars ready to spot migratory birds that stop at 3 Tanjung Tuan Recreational Forest, on the edge of Seremban.

Sail quietly through the mangrove forest at Terengganu’s 4 Penarik Firefly Sanctuary, illuminated by thousands of fireflies.

Catch a rare glimpse of nocturnal wildlife on a trip through the Night Safari, inside Singapore’s 5 Mandai Wildlife Reserve.

A NIGHT OUT

Whether your idea of nighttime fun is sipping hibiscus-infused cocktails at a trendy speakeasy, watching a football match on the curb by the pub, or letting loose to some thumping club beats, the region has you covered. Big cities like Singapore and Kuala Lumpur are the liveliest, with rooftop bars and clubs that are hard to beat – though don’t miss the cool, laid-back vibe of quieter towns like Penang or Kota Kinabalu either.

Nightlife, Kuala Lumpur | All Is Amazing/shutterstock ©

Dry Country

While you’ll find alcohol throughout Singapore and Malaysia, it’s banned in Brunei due to the country’s strict Islamic laws and large-majority Muslim population.

Post-Party Grub

Bars and clubs may close at 2am to 3am, but that doesn’t mean the night has to end – there’s still food to be found in the city at 24-hour eateries like the mamak (Indian Muslim) stalls or trusty fast-food chains.

BEST NIGHTLIFE EXPERIENCES

Share a beer tower out by the street or go bar-hopping in Kuala Lumpur’s nightlife district, 1 Changkat Bukit Bintang.

Get a taste of Sabah’s laid-back nightlife with a drink at a bar by the breezy 2 KK Waterfront.

Dine and clink glasses by 3 Clarke Quay where entertainment and bars abound, then party away at Singapore’s slickest clubs.

Trade booze for teh tarik (pulled milk tea) and experience a different type of nightlife at mamak stalls in 4 Kuala Lumpur.

Saunter into a speakeasy and sip on local flavour-infused cocktails on a night out in 5 George Town, in Penang.

FOR KIDS

Between all the theme parks, zoos and thrilling activities you’ll find here, there’s a whole catalogue of activities to keep the little ones going. As you hop from the bustling cities to chill island destinations, find opportunities to fill the young explorers with a sense of wonder and thrill. Zip line through rainforests, slip and slide at water parks, or hop on hair-raising rides – the choice is yours!

Ticket Deals

Tickets are often discounted when you buy ahead online. Also look at booking websites like klook.com for the best deals on passes to multiple attractions.

cherry-hai/shutterstock ©

Urban Jungle Activities

Not a fan of theme parks? Options are aplenty in the cities – go indoor rock climbing, trampolining, check out interactive exhibitions, or let the kids run wild at city playgrounds.

helloitsme_sr/shutterstock ©

Travelling With Infants

City malls will typically have nursing and changing rooms, but they can be hard to come by elsewhere, especially in more rural areas.

BEST EXPERIENCES FOR KIDS

Hop on adrenaline-pumping rides, water slides and much more at 1 Sentosa Island in Singapore.

Climb the treetops, get acquainted with crocs, or whizz down water slides at Langkawi’s theme parks, such as 2 Dream Forest Langkawi.

Cool off from the city heat at Kuala Lumpur’s 3 Sunway Lagoon, an all-in-one amusement, wildlife and water park.

Spend the day zipping on roller-coasters and firing lasers at Johor’s 4 Legoland – where everything is awesome.

Escape the tropical heat at 5 Genting Highlands, where a world of entertainment (for kids and adults) awaits beyond Kuala Lumpur.

TEMPLES, MOSQUES & MORE

Stand under the domed ceiling of grand mosques, soak in the colour and atmosphere of Hindu temples, and breathe in the scent of incense wafting from Chinese temple halls – across Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei are must-see religious sites that tell a story of the region’s rich local culture and history.

Keeping Covered

Many Muslim Malaysian and Bruneian women wear headscarves called a tudong. Female, non-Muslim visitors to mosques must also cover up with the provided headscarves.

Julian Bohorquez/shutterstock ©

Buddhist or Taoist?

Buddhist and Taoist temples can be indistinguishable at first glance. Only Buddha and other Bodhisattvas are enshrined in Buddhist temples, while Taoist temples house many other deities.

Elena Odareeva/shutterstock ©

Holy Day

Schedule mosque visits on days other than Friday, as it is a major day of worship for Muslims and access to non-Muslim visitors may be limited.

BEST RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCES

Stand in the shadow of the giant Lord Muruga statue at 1 Batu Caves, then enter the limestone caves and seek the Hindu temples within.

Admire Brunei’s opulent 2 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, with its gold leaf-covered dome and towering minaret.

Explore the grand vista of Penang’s 3 Kek Lok Si, a sprawling Buddhist temple complex that is among Southeast Asia’s largest.

Watch worshippers pay respects to the goddess Mazu at one of Singapore’s oldest Taoist temples, 4 Thian Hock Keng.

Marvel at the size and beauty of 5 Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah, just outside KL and topped with a blue and white dome.

CREATIVE & COLOURFUL

It’s hard to beat the awesome beauty of the region’s sandy beaches and verdant forests, but there’s more inspiration to be found in the urban areas, too. Check out dynamic street murals, watch the making of beautiful woven textiles, and maybe try your hand at some crafts yourself – here are experiences to fill your trip with colour.

Traditional songket weaving | Aisyaqilumaranas/shutterstock ©

Pop-Up Markets

Listen to live music, shop for handmade art directly from local artists and more at pop-up markets like George Town’s Hin Pop-Up Market.

The Luxurious Textile

Songket is a luxurious traditional cloth intricately handwoven with colour and silver or gold thread – and the making of it is as mesmerising as the fabric itself.

BEST ARTSY EXPERIENCES

Check out independent art exhibits or join a crafting workshop at Kuala Lumpur’s hip, artsy venues like 1 Zhongshan Building.

Watch local women weave traditional textiles like songket and Sarawakian ikat at the 2 Tun Jugah Museum & Gallery.

Take unabashed selfies in front of the street art in 3 George Town – a draw for foreigners and locals alike.

Discover the vibrant street art of 4 Kota Kinabalu as you walk the city – many murals feature local wildlife.

Peek into the lives of Singapore’s 5 Chinatown inhabitants of yesteryear through painted murals in the area.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Essential Peninsula

Allow: 7 days Distance: 950km

See the colourful landscape of Peninsular Malaysia in a week. Have your camera ready because this itinerary takes you through modern city sights, heritage towns, beaches and the highlands for a perfect taster of what the rest of the country has to offer.

Batu Caves | Andrey_Vasiliskov/shutterstock ©

1 KUALA LUMPUR 2 DAYS

Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur is your point of entry. Spend a day soaking in the city sights – iconic skyscrapers like the Petronas Towers, and fine examples of colonial-era architecture – fuelling up in between with signature local dishes. For cultural experiences, visit the centuries-old temples of Petaling St, or the National Museum for a comprehensive history of the country.

f11photo/shutterstock ©

2 SELANGOR 1 DAY

Head outside the city to Selangor for a breath of fresh air at Kepong Botanic Gardens, or with prior booking, a trek at the Forest Research Institute. A short car ride from here takes you to one of the most important Hindu religious sites in the country, Batu Caves. Climb the colourful staircase and enter the limestone caves to find Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Muruga.

Cik Ieta/shutterstock ©

3 MELAKA 1 DAY

Hop on a coach for a day trip south to Melaka, a historical city that was once a booming trading hub. See all the cultural sights at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, from old forts to Dutch colonial-era structures, historical churches and old shophouses. Don’t leave without trying traditional Peranakan cooking, or if you’re really hungry, eating your way down Jonker St.

Sun_Shine/shutterstock ©

4 IPOH 1 DAY

Make your way north to Perak, a state where the history of tin mining runs deep. Stop at the city of Ipoh and take in the old-town vibes and monuments from the city’s colonial past. You’ll also want a cup of white coffee, a local speciality.

Detour: Wind your way up to Genting Highlands for a day of entertainment – theme parks for the kids, and the casino for adults.

Wright Out There/shutterstock ©

5 PULAU PANGKOR 1 DAY

Hop on a ferry and get some sun, sand and sea on the island of Pulau Pangkor off the coast of Perak. Jet ski, snorkel and swim to your heart’s content, or sign up for an island-hopping tour and discover lesser-known bays and coves by boat. Also make sure to check out some of the island’s historical and religious sites, including an old Dutch fort, temples and mosques.

Marc Venema/shutterstock ©

6 CAMERON HIGHLANDS 1 DAY

Drive towards Cameron Highlands and watch palms and towns fall away, to be replaced by rolling green hills. Drop by the tea plantations for a fresh cup of hot tea, then go strawberry picking at local farms. See what else grows and thrives in the colder climate as you visit gardens and browse local farmers markets.

LunarVogel/shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Gems of the Northern Peninsula

Allow: 8 days Distance: 750km

Pristine beaches, cerulean waters and exhilarating dives are just a fraction of what’s in store in the northern half of the Malay Peninsula. Explore the waters of Selat Melaka and the South China Sea, but also leave room for quiet exploration of some of the region’s most interesting towns.

1 GEORGE TOWN 2 DAYS

Start your trip to Penang with a bang at atmospheric George Town, where you’ll find street art, heritage architecture, old temples and some of the nation’s tastiest food. Be sure to make time in the evening to hop around the speakeasies. On day two, head up to Penang Hill for some fresh air, followed by a trip to the sprawling temple complex of Kek Lok Si.

Mark Hall/shutterstock ©

2 LANGKAWI 1 DAY

A short flight away are the white sandy beaches and swaying palm trees of Langkawi, coupled with family-friendly attractions. Head to Panorama Langkawi and hop on a cable car up to Gunung Machinchang to admire the breathtaking views, then hobble across a 100m-high bridge. Spend the rest of the day on the sands of Pantai Cenang, followed by evening drinks by the beach.

Izuddin Helmi/shutterstock ©

3 KEDAH 1 DAY

In Kedah, spend a day walking about the town of Alor Setar, dipping into artsy cafes in between exploring the Malay and Chinese quarters by the river. Take time to admire the architecture, from Moorish-style mosques to traditional Malay-style structures.

Detour: 10km from town and surrounded by paddy fields is an impressive museum, Muzium Padi, dedicated to the growing of rice, Kedah’s primary industry. 2 hours

Mohd Nasri Bin Mohd Zain/shutterstock ©

4 KOTA BHARU 1 DAY

Immerse yourself in Malay culture in Kota Bharu. Start with the town plaza and then explore the buildings and monuments nearby, some of which are excellent museums. The cultural centre, Gelanggang Seni, highlights traditional crafts like kite making, top-spinning and a Malay martial art called silat.

Detour: Tour some Thai temples at Tumpat, a half-hour drive from Kota Bharu. 3 hours

imrankadir/shutterstock ©

5 PERHENTIAN ISLANDS 2 DAYS

Escape to paradise by boat from Kuala Besut to the Perhentian Islands, where pristine beaches, sparkling waters and hiking trails through verdant hills await. In the clear waters, beginners can snorkel to beautiful coral reefs, and experienced divers can plunge into the depths and swim with diverse marine life, perhaps even diving to shipwrecks.

Ye Choh Wah/shutterstock ©

6 KUALA TERENGGANU 1 DAY

Return to the surface for air and spend a laid-back day in Kuala Terengganu, strolling through one of the country’s most interesting Chinatowns, and stuffing yourself with noodles and other delicious treats. Then wind down with a leisurely stroll along the riverfront, and by admiring art and architecture at museums.

wong yu liang/shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Southern Charms

Allow: 8 days Distance: 745km

Begin your trip with some urban exploration in one of the world’s most beautiful cities, then get in touch with nature as you dip your toes in clear waters, get acquainted with wildlife and make the worthwhile trek into forests as old as time.

Diwali Festival, Little India, Singapore | Wirestock Creators/shutterstock ©

1 SINGAPORE 3 DAYS

You’ll want plenty of time to see and experience everything in compact Singapore – don’t miss headliners like Gardens by the Bay and heritage quarters like Chinatown and Little India, but also take your time exploring the city’s green spaces on foot. Meanwhile, Mandai Wildlife Reserve and Singapore Botanic Gardens offer a taste of nature.

Inspired By Maps/shutterstock ©

2 DESARU 1 DAY

Leave the city behind as you hop on a ferry to a relaxing resort holiday by the lovely Desaru Coast. Here, you can have an idyllic tropical vacation by the beach – soaking up the sun rays, take the kids to the Adventure Waterpark, or have an adventure upriver on a boat ride through the mangrove forests.

Komeng1969/shutterstock ©

3 ENDAU-ROMPIN NATIONAL PARK 2 DAYS

Head to Kahang, then hop in a 4WD for a two-hour drive to Kampung Peta, your gateway to primordial Endau-Rompin National Park. Trek through lush forests to thundering waterfalls and clear pools.

Detour: Stop by the city of Johor Bahru. See heritage sights and old temples, and fuel up on good food. 3 hours

Fhaizal Mazlan/shutterstock ©

4 KUANTAN & JERANTUT 2 DAYS

Rest and relax at the low-key city of Kuantan, dipping into museums and markets for a glimpse of local art and crafts, or head up to Kuantan Tower 188 for a sweeping view of the city and its estuary. Stop next at Jerantut, and board a longboat or minivan to another adventure in the wilderness of Taman Negara, one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

Oscar Espinosa/shutterstock ©

Marina Bay, Singapore | Boule/shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Best of Borneo

Allow: 12 days Distance: 1500km

You’ll conquer mountain peaks, enter some of the world’s most magnificent caves, lock eyes with an orangutan, witness the unbeatable nature of Borneo, swim in azure seas, and even squeeze in some urban sights and delicious food along the way on this trip through Sabah and Sarawak.

Kuching | Herrieynaha/shutterstock ©

1 KUCHING 2 DAYS

There’s so much to soak in culturally at Sarawak’s vibrant capital city, Kuching. Dotted around are old temples, lively markets and statues of cats (kucing, the Malay word for cat, is pronounced the same as Kuching) that make for exciting urban exploration. The excellent Borneo Cultures Museum, which showcases Sarawak’s natural world and diverse cultures, is a must-see.

Abdul Razak Latif/shutterstock ©

2 GUNUNG MULU NATIONAL PARK 3 DAYS

At Gunung Mulu, venture deep into the caverns of majestic Deer Cave – the world’s largest cave passage that’s accessible to the public – and home to two to three million bats. Other unforgettable experiences include sailing to the Wind and Clearwater caves on a longboat, experiencing total darkness at Langang Cave and going on a night walk.

slyellow/shutterstock ©

3 KOTA KINABALU 2 DAYS

Fly in to Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu, and explore the city’s museums, mosques and cultural villages by day, and sample the diverse culinary offerings by night. For a jaunt along the beach, hop on a boat bound for the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, where corals and marine life are plentiful, and crystal-clear waters are made for snorkelling.

Affendy Soeto/shutterstock ©

4 KINABALU PARK 2 DAYS

If you’re up for the challenge, climb Borneo’s highest peak, Mt Kinabalu – and for the truly daring, descend via the rungs and bridges of the via ferrata. Otherwise, there are hiking trails around the park headquarters, some of which make for beginner-friendly walks. You’ll be able to spot some of the region’s flora and fauna along the trails – or at the nearby Botanical Garden.

Rodrigo Lourezini/shutterstock ©

5 SEPILOK 2 DAYS

If your idea of a Borneo trip isn’t complete without wildlife, then head back to Kota Kinabalu to hop on a short flight to Sepilok for orangutan and sun bear sanctuaries. Here, sightings of the elusive orangutan are guaranteed, and you’ll see rehabilitating sun bears before they get released back into the wild. Stop at the Rainforest Discovery Centre in the evening for a night walk.

Chui Wui Jing/shutterstock ©

6 BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN 2 DAYS

Return to Kota Kinabalu, then fly into the slow-paced capital of Brunei, Bandar Seri Begawan. See the city’s opulent buildings and monuments as you explore on foot, and while away the afternoon in some excellent museums and mosques. For a change of scenery, hop on a water taxi to Kampong Ayer, a complex of 30 villages on stilts.

Adwo/shutterstock ©

WHEN TO GO

Relatively temperate weather and fewer domestic tourists make March to November the best time to visit.

It’s difficult to get a sense of the seasons when the region’s year-round tropical climate is punctuated only by torrential rains and sweltering heat (some months more so than others). However, a myriad of cultural festivals divide the year into celebratory periods that locals sync their rhythms to. The beginning of the year is marked by Chinese New Year and the school holidays. January and February are peak season for locals who flock to Peninsular Malaysia’s west-coast beaches and their hometowns. It peaks again at Malay new year, Hari Raya Puasa. Although it’s busy, the festive atmosphere makes a trip worthwhile. If you’re planning to go to the beach, plan carefully around monsoon periods.

Peak Season Price Hikes

Prices for resorts and chalets skyrocket during peak beach season and school holidays. City accommodation is best booked in advance if visiting near festive seasons and major events, like the Formula 1 Grand Prix, though prices will likely still be inflated.

Bishan Park, Singapore | Ray’s Images/shutterstock ©

I LIVE HERE

JOGGING

Zhiming Chen is a Singapore-based game developer and running enthusiast. @zhimingc_

Singapore’s year-long hot and humid weather does little to deter the keen runner – the city is made for exploration on two feet, and a jog is my favourite way to take in the views. At any time of year, as long as the skies are clear, I go for a jog at the park connectors: wide, paved roads that run between Singapore’s pockets of green. Sometimes I’ll do the Marina Bay waterfront loop in the evening and watch the sunset over the beautiful cityscape.

TORRENTIAL RAINS

Don’t be surprised if it starts pouring within minutes of the sky turning grey – thunderstorms and heavy rain occur throughout the year, but are more frequent from April to May, and October to November. Seek shelter and wait it out.

HOT DAYS, COOLER NIGHTS

Weather in the region is nearly always hot and humid during the day, and the humidity can sometimes linger into the night. Once in a while, evenings will bring cool breezes to towns and cities, creating the ideal setting for nighttime activities outdoors.

Festive Celebrations

Thaipusam One of the largest Hindu festivals takes place in front of Batu Caves and Indian temples across the region, with floats and worshippers with ritual body piercings drawing dizzying crowds. Jan/Feb

Chinese New Year The largest event of the year for the region’s Chinese diaspora involving firecrackers, lion dances and a lot of merriment. Expect a sea of red, from temples to shopping malls. Jan/Feb

Gawai Dayak The indigenous peoples of Sarawak don beautiful traditional garb and celebrate the end of the harvest season with rituals and food. Jun

Hari Raya Puasa After a month of fasting during Ramadan, the Malay new year festivities come into full swing, with family visitations and open houses where guests are invited to feast on rendang (a fragrant, slow-cooked meat stew) and other goodies. Mar (2025, 2026)

The Fun Festivals

Rainforest World Music Festival Local and international acts gather at Sarawak Cultural Village north of Kuching for this three-day music extravaganza, celebrating sounds and instruments from across the world. Jun

Zouk Out Big-name DJs have festival-goers dancing until dawn on the sands of Siloso Beach at Singapore’s largest dance-music festival. Presented by one of the city’s hottest clubs, Zouk. Dec

Formula 1 Grand Prix Marina Bay transforms into a street circuit for Formula 1 cars to much traffic and fanfare. Secure accommodation months in advance, or prepare to pay a premium. Sep

George Town Festival A yearly arts event held in historic George Town, when the city transforms into an arts venue. George Town’s most famous street-art pieces are a product of the festival. Jul

I LIVE HERE

YEAR-ROUND

Ronnie Teo is a newspaper editor based in Kuching, Sarawak. @mrronnieteo

Borneo has two ‘seasons’ – monsoon season and drier days, but outdoor activities are year-round. I love hitting the forest trails around Kuching when I need a break from the city, and spotting wildlife like insects, frogs, monkeys and hornbills, and the occasional bearded pig. The trails are diverse and accessible. Be cautious during monsoon season as heavy rainfall makes the trails slippery.

Tree frog, Kubah National Park | Mila Supinskaya Glashchenko/shutterstock ©

MONSOON SEASONS

The southwest monsoon hits the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia from late May to September with heavy rains. From November to March, strong winds and pelting rain arrive with the northeast monsoon to Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast and Borneo – to the west of Sarawak and east of Sabah.

Weather through the Year

JANUARY

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 12–18

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 11–17

MARCH

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 11–16

APRIL

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 11–16

MAY

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 13–18

JUNE

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 12–17

JULY

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 12–17

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 12–17

SEPTEMBER

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 12–17

OCTOBER

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 15–20

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 17–22

DECEMBER

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 15–20

GET PREPARED FOR MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & BRUNEI

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.

Dr David Sing/shutterstock ©

Clothes

Light, airy clothing Clothing that wicks away sweat or comfy natural fabrics are best for both city and rural exploration in the tropical heat.

Umbrella Stash one in your bag to protect you against the harsh sunshine and unpredictable rainstorms.

Trousers Some religious sites require visitors to cover up before entering. Headscarves will be provided for women at mosques.

Hiking boots Good to have if you’re serious about hitting the trails.

Beach coverup Swimwear is reserved for the beach and the pool. If going into public areas, make sure you’re dressed more modestly.

Jacket Highland areas get cold at night, but a hoodie or a jacket will be enough to keep you warm.

Shoes Have a comfortable pair for walking around cities. Clubs also require guests to wear covered shoes.

Manners

Pointing with your index finger can sometimes be considered rude, especially if it’s at a person. Use your thumb instead.

Do not offer pork to Muslims, and refrain from mentioning pork, too.

Dress more modestly in areas outside the city as they tend to be more conservative.

Public displays of affection are generally frowned upon in Malaysia and Brunei.

READ

The Gift of Rain (Tan Twan Eng; 2007) Themes of loyalty and allegiance in a novel set in 1939 Penang just before the Japanese occupation of Malaya.

Crazy Rich Asians (Kevin Kwan; 2013) A satirical novel about the lifestyles of Singapore’s rich and famous, with a movie adaptation.

Land Below the Wind (Agnes Newton Keith; 1939) A look at pre-WWII Borneo through the eyes of the author of this memoir.

Devil of a State (1961; Anthony Burgess) This novel set in a fictional state was inspired by the time the author spent living in Brunei Darussalam.

Words

Many in the region speak English, though grammar and syntax may sound different to what you’re used to, and you’ll find suffixes thrown in for seemingly no apparent reason. Mandarin, Malay, Tamil and other words may work themselves into English sentences.

Can The same as in English, only sometimes used as an affirmative – instead of ‘yes’, a local may answer ‘can’, and ‘cannot’ for ‘no’.

-lah A suffix attached to the end of phrases to add emphasis, though it means nothing on its own. ‘Can-lah’ is equivalent to ‘absolutely’.

Makan Malay word meaning ‘to eat’.

Minum To drink.

Terima kasih ‘Thank you’ in Malay.

Jom ‘Let’s go’.

Nasi Malay for rice.

Mee Malay for noodles.

Berapa ‘How much?’

Shiok Slang for ‘awesome’ or ‘enjoyable’ commonly used in Malaysia and Singapore. Pronounced ‘she-oak’ or ‘she-ok’.

Abang Malay for ‘brother’; sometimes used affectionately in place of ‘Sir’ or ‘Mr’. Sometimes shortened to ‘bang’.

Boleh ‘Can’, or ‘yes’, in Malay.

Tak boleh ‘Cannot’.

Ada Malay for ‘to have’. (‘Ada nasi?’ Is there rice?)

Tak Ada Malay for ‘not to have’. ‘Tak ada nasi’ means ‘There isn’t any rice’. Locals may also say ‘don’t have’.

Got Sometimes used in place of ‘there’s’, as in ‘There got restaurant’ (There’s a restaurant over there).

Tolong ‘Help!’

Or not? General tag for questions. ‘Eat already or not?’ (Have you eaten yet?)

WATCH

VCG/getty images ©

Abang Adik (Jin Ong; 2023) An undocumented man and his younger brother navigate life in poverty in Kuala Lumpur.

Our Grandfather Story A Singapore-based YouTube channel sharing thought-provoking stories from people across Southeast Asia.

The Little Nyonya (2008) TV drama series; the multi-generational story of a Peranakan family of Melaka and Singapore.

Ola Bola (Chiu Keng Guan; 2016) Set in the 1980s, a Malaysian football team strives to make it to the Olympics. Inspired by real events.

LISTEN

Zee Avi (Zee Avi; 2009) Debut album of one of Malaysia’s most popular female artists, full of soothing, happy, acoustic tones.

The Moment (Stephanie Sun; 2003) An early album full of soft hits by Singapore’s most well-known Mando-pop artist and icon.

BFM (bfm.my) Discover great podcasts produced by this independent Malaysian radio station on business and current affairs.

Slower Life (Dru Chen; 2023) A collection of poppy melodies mixed with some chill electronic beats by a young up-and-coming Singaporean artist.

TRIP PLANNER

NATIONAL PARKS

Setting foot on some of the world’s oldest rainforests and caves is guaranteed to be an unforgettable experience for the nature-loving explorer. More than 20 national and state parks are spread across the Malay Peninsula and Borneo, all with their own draws. Visiting them does require a little extra prep and planning, however – here’s how.

Kuala Tahan, Taman Negara | Matyas Rehak/shutterstock ©

TAMAN NEGARA

Peninsular Malaysia’s largest park, encompassing around 4300 sq km of virgin rainforest. The peninsula’s highest peak, Gunung Tahan, is here. Experiences include hiking, boat trips and spending a night in a cave.

KINABALU PARK

Mt Kinabalu, Borneo’s highest mountain, rests majestically here at Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides summiting Sabah’s icon, you’ll find gentle hiking trails and diverse species of flora that thrive in the cooler climate of the 754-sq-km national park.

GUNUNG MULU

The highlight of this Sarawak national park is the looming Deer Cave where millions of bats dwell – though the park is really a cave explorer’s dream, with several other spectacular caverns to discover.

BAKO NATIONAL PARK

Forests and mangroves give way to beaches and dramatic rock faces and sea stacks at this 27-sq-km peninsula of Sarawak that’s home to wildlife like proboscis monkeys.

GETTING PERMITS & A GUIDE

Bear in mind that you’ll be venturing into important protected areas and more often than not, you’ll be required to have a guide with you as well as the necessary permits. This is especially true if you’re looking to engage in activities like trekking, caving and mountain climbing.

Making arrangements with the park itself, a tour operator, or your accommodation is often the easiest way to secure the necessary documents. Book well in advance, especially for popular destinations, and during peak periods.

If visiting national parks in Borneo, prior research and preparation is crucial – Brunei’s Ulu Temburong National Park is only accessible if you are entering as part of an organised tour group, and parks in Sabah and Sarawak can have stringent visitor regulations.

When contracting the services of an independent guide, ensure they are licensed as there’s a chance entry may be denied if they lack the necessary certification.

If you weren’t able to secure a guide, some areas within the national parks, like Taman Negara, are still accessible for day trips. Guides are mandatory for any overnight excursions.

JUNGLE SURVIVAL KIT

A guide to make sure you hike safely and responsibly.

Leech socks are essential – make sure you have a pair before your flight.

Rubber shoes A pair with cleats locals call ‘adidas kampung’ to help get you through muddy trails.

Water filter or purification agents for longer trips out.

Sunscreen and insect repellent so you don’t burn or sting.

Waterproof pouches and sacks to keep your gear dry.

Synthetic, fast-drying clothing for the most (relative) comfort.

Be reasonably fit if attempting longer, more challenging treks.

Kinabalu Park | Zack Zulkarnain/shutterstock ©

WHEN TO GO

Summertime in the northern hemisphere is when national parks here get busy, around July or August. Booking accommodation and tours months in advance may be necessary. Regional holidays like Chinese New Year (around January to February) can also bring more travellers.

Taman Negara

The park remains open but is quiet during Peninsular Malaysia’s wet season, between November and January. March to June is considered a good time to go. Though you’re still likely to encounter rain, most park activities remain unaffected unless there’s flooding.

Kinabalu Park

March to September are considered dry months, and this is when most choose to attempt summiting Mt Kinabalu. October to January trips are still possible, although there is a higher chance of heavy rain and therefore summit closure.

Gunung Mulu National Park

Peak travel season is July to September – these are the driest months and coincide with summer holidays. Rain reduces your chances of seeing the bats swarm out of their cave, but do little to affect other caving activities.

Bako National Park

The best time to visit is during Borneo’s drier months, between April and September, when the weather is more likely to be pleasant. The park is open year-round and still has visitors even when it is raining.

TRIP PLANNER

BEACHES & ISLANDS

Look no further – the ultimate destination for the ideal tropical beach vacation is here, scattered across the coasts and islands of Malaysia, Singapore and Borneo. Long having been strategic locations for traders in history, the region’s coastlines and isles are now world-class resorts and diving spots that continue to attract travellers from across the globe.

Pulau Pangkor | Jaione Ugarte Graciantepa/Shutterstock ©

PENINSULAR MALAYSIA

On Peninsular Malaysia’s west coast are a few beaches and islands frequented by city-dwelling locals that make for a quick holiday getaway or alternative for when the monsoon season hits the east coast. Port Dickson is closest to Kuala Lumpur and has some resorts and beaches, but if diving, snorkelling and other watersports are what you’re looking for, Pulau Pangkor is your next best bet for beaches near the city.

On the northern tip of Penang Island is the tourist-heavy and resort-lined beach of Batu Ferringhi, and even further north is Langkawi, an archipelago of 99 isles where you can live out your best resort-island fantasies.

The beaches and islands on the east coast are widely regarded as some of the most beautiful in the country, with Terengganu’s Pulau Perhentian and Johor’s Pulau Tioman the superstars, with pristine beaches and clear waters made for snorkelling and diving. Cherating draws a surfer crowd, and Johor’s Desaru Coast is yet another resort town popular with vacationing Singaporeans. The monsoon hits the east coast between November to March, with the worst of it usually towards the end of the year.

SINGAPORE

Though Singapore doesn’t have as many watersports as its northern neighbour, Sentosa island is packed with family-friendly entertainment such as theme parks and shows, fun-filled beaches and some nature trails.

BORNEO

Along the eastern coast of Sabah is the Semporna Archipelago, one of the best diving destinations in the world. Also within reach are the beautiful islands of Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai. A quick trip from Sabah’s capital of Kota Kinabalu is Tunku Abdul Rahman (TAR) National Park, a collection of islands floating in turquoise waters where travellers can enjoy a quick bout of watersports or snorkelling. In Sarawak, the Santubong Peninsula has resorts and sandy getaways 40 minutes away from the capital, Kuching. Diving adventures also await in Brunei, including WWII shipwrecks off the coast of Muara. Tutong has a long, picturesque beach perfect for, well, long walks on the beach.

WHEN TO GO

Strong winds and rain brought by the monsoon to the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia make diving near impossible from November to March.

On the west coast, a good time to visit is between the end of the year and April.

The southwest monsoon arrives in late May and lasts until September, but it’s a little tamer than its northeastern counterpart. In Borneo, the monsoons are more reserved and diving is possible year-round.

In April, Semporna is host to the Regatta Lepa, a festival marking the annual return of the Bajau Laut sea nomads.

Pulau Mataking | Claudio Soldi/Shutterstock ©

BEFORE YOU GO

Top Tips

• Whenever possible, book in advance. This includes boats, ferries and diving tours, especially in places like Pulau Sipadan where entry is capped to 120 divers per day. Resorts can also fill with local tourists during regional holidays such as Chinese New Year and Hari Raya Puasa.

• If you don’t have an activity pre-booked, you may end up getting overcharged by boat and watersports operators. The best solution is to have something arranged for you by your accommodation, but it’s possible to try and bargain for a lower price.

• Make sure you have enough cash with you before heading to the islands. ATMs can be scarce and credit cards may not be widely accepted.

Diving

• Malaysia is an excellent diving destination for beginners and seasoned divers alike, with a good variety of diving schools and facilities you can access for a reasonable price. You can rent equipment easily and most places offer the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) certification.

• Leisure dives including equipment rental cost from RM100 to RM300 for multiple dives, while PADI open-water courses and certifications run from RM1000 to RM1200.

THE FOOD SCENE

Multicultural Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei are entire nations of foodies, boasting not just the best, but the largest variety of dishes in Southeast Asia.

Street vendor, Kota Kinabalu | Alen thien/shutterstock ©

To locals of the region, food is a matter of national pride. Malaysians and Singaporeans may argue at length about which dish originated where, or have the even more contentious ‘which country does it better’ discussion; but what all this means for the traveller is that no matter where you go, good food always follows. Cuisine here is just as much spicy curries perfumed with the sweet richness of coconut milk, as it is hearty stews concocted with a secret potpourri of herbs.

At the table, the influence of the region’s multicultural background is clear to see – and taste. Malay cooking and confectioneries bring the heat and sweetness, Indian curries and flatbreads are layered in flavour, and Chinese cooking has the smokiness of wok hei (literally ‘wok energy’) and a hearty umami. And there are all the flavours in between, from Peranakan cooking, to local spins on staples that make every dish a culinary journey.

Hawker Food

The best place to really get to know the flavour of the region is at the humble hawker stall. Quick, tasty, cheap and unpretentious, they’re the lifeblood for many locals – because when food is truly delicious, there’s no need for any bells and whistles. Dishes are served on plastic plates, and the bent metal utensils that come with them do nothing to diminish the flavour of the food.

Hawker-stall staples often include noodles of all kinds: stir-fried rice noodles such as char kway teow; egg noodles tossed in lard and soy sauce like wantan mee; or chewy dough noodles made on the spot like pan mee. These are just some of what’s in their little kitchens. Also on parade are mixed rice, yong tau foo (vegetables and tofu stuffed with fish and meat paste) and much, much more.

‘Makan’ Culture

In Malay, makan is a verb that means ‘to eat’, and it’s a word so deeply ingrained into local culture that it’s often one of the first words you will learn upon arrival. ‘Let’s go makan’ is a common daily utterance, because locals really do take their food seriously. Any time is a good time to makan – three meals a day and snacks in between, plus supper? No problem. Ask a local what’s good to eat, and they’ll likely have plenty of recommendations. There’s no strict adherence as to what counts as a meal for certain times of the day either – breakfast can be rice, noodles, or bak kut teh (pork stew), just as supper can be roti (flatbread) and teh tarik (pulled tea).

Eating Out

Dining the local way is an experience in itself, and each culture has its own common practices. At Malay and Indian establishments, some diners eat with their hands. You’re more than welcome to try it yourself – just always use your right hand. Casual Chinese restaurants will bring teacups in a plastic dish of hot water so diners can ‘wash’ the crockery and utensils before their meal. In Malaysia and Brunei where the majority of the population is Muslim, Chinese restaurants and a handful of Western establishments serve pork, and bacon is often beef instead.

Teh tarik, Kuala Lumpur | shahphoto/shutterstock ©

FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Pineapples and rice in Bario | Abang Faizul/shutterstock ©

Singapore Food Festival (July) The city state’s largest food event celebrates the diverse flavours of Singapore, from traditional dishes to the newest trends.

Big Food Festival (October) The best of Malay street food, desserts and more draws crowds to Malaysia’s smallest and oft-overlooked state of Perlis.

BandarKu Ceria Brunei Sample food and drink from stalls set up every Sunday morning in central Bandar Seri Begawan.

Bario Food & Cultural Festival (@bariofoodfestival; July) The Kelabit Highlands, famous for rice and pineapples, is host to this popular food festival offering a taste of local indigenous delicacies.

Tamu Besar (October) Two hours from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah’s largest market is a real fanfare featuring traditional performances and lots of food.

Local Specialities

Festival Food

Yee Sang A sort of a salad comprising assorted vegetables, crackers and slices of seafood with a drizzle of sweet sauce. A must-have at Chinese New Year reunion dinners – everyone at the table tosses the salad with chopsticks while saying festive wishes.

Ketupat Uncooked rice is wrapped beautifully in woven palm leaves, expanding into a rice cake as it cooks. A Hari Raya (Malay new year) staple, and often featured as a festive decoration.

Muruku A mixture of flour and spices that is fried and shaped into coils and spirals of flavourful perfection.

Dare to Try

Ambuyat A Brunei speciality of a thick goo made from the powdered pith of a sago tree, mixed with water and served with sauces that add flavour.

Sea cucumber Wobbly, gelatinous sea cucumber is considered a delicacy in Chinese cuisine and often cooked in a thick, flavourful abalone sauce.

Fish-head curry Exactly as its name suggests, a red-snapper fish head swims in a fragrant curry with assorted vegetables.

Otak otak Despite its name – otak means brains in Malay – this is a spicy mixture of fish paste, herbs and aromatics wrapped in a leaf and traditionally grilled over charcoal.

Ambuyat | Nur Luna/shutterstock ©

MEALS OF A LIFETIME

Dewakan Kuala Lumpur’s top-rated restaurant wows with dishes incorporating local flavours and sustainably sourced produce.

Chulia Street Hawker Food Have your pick of the best Penang dishes, including char kway teow, along this food street.

KK Night Market A mesmerising selection of fresh seafood cooked before your eyes and enjoyed in a communal, market atmosphere.

Jumbo Seafood Dishing up Singapore’s iconic sweet and spicy chilli crab.

Alter Ego The chefs are very creative at this fusion restaurant in the trendy dining district of Kiulap in Bandar Seri Bbegawan.

THE YEAR IN FOOD

CHINESE NEW YEAR

(Jan/Feb) Cookies, bakkwa (sweet pork jerky) and mandarin oranges fill the shelves as the perfect finger food for house visits. Restaurants serve yee sang and poon choi, a casserole-type dish filled with seafood delicacies.

Evgeny Ermakov/shutterstock ©

RAMADAN

(varies, Feb–Mar 2025) Local Muslims observe Ramadan with a month of daytime fasting, followed by feasting and getting goodies at the Ramadan bazaars – markets lined with Malay food and treats.

Thamkc/shutterstock ©

MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL

(Sep/Oct) Mooncakes in elaborate packaging occupy supermarket shelves. Apart from the traditional confectioneries, jelly and dessert variants can be spotted too – and perhaps also durian-flavoured ones.

gowithstock/shutterstock ©

DEEPAVALI

(Oct/Nov) All the flavours and spices of the different varieties of muruku, plus sweet laddoo (balls of sugar and flour), and all the curries and biryani you can stomach.

StockImageFactory.com/shutterstock ©

Yee sang, a traditional Chinese New Year dish | ThamKC/shutterstock ©

Best Dishes

NASI LEMAK

Rice steamed with coconut milk, served with meat, peanuts, anchovies and sambal.

ROTI CANAI

A flatbread dipped in dhal (lentil curry) ; also called prata in Singapore.

BAK KUT TEH

Stew of pork and herbs. Malaysia’s broth is dark, while Singapore’s is light.

CHILLI CRAB

Fresh crab cooked in a tomato and chilli sauce. Sometimes served with fried buns for dipping.

SATAY

Meat skewers barbecued over charcoal; served with rice cakes and peanut sauce.

KAYA TOAST

Sliced bread with a serving of butter and coconut jam (kaya) sandwiched in between.

KULH

Colourful traditional cakes and confectioneries often flavoured with pandan or coconut.

HOKKIEN MEE

Thick noodles stir-fried in sauce and lard. Malaysia’s version is dark, Singapore’s is light.

THE OUTDOORS

Whether it’s conquering peaks, plunging into ocean depths, plumbing dark caverns, or getting in touch with wildlife, there’s something here for you.

Tea plantation, Cameron Highlands | lookmal.com/shutterstock ©

Outdoor adventurers are in luck – Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei have a diverse array of outdoor activities in store, from the mountains to the sea, and even urban areas, too. Peninsular Malaysia’s lush forests, highlands, beaches and islands offer endless opportunities to hike, snorkel and dive, while Borneo’s untouched forests and pristine islands are primed for world-class ecotourism. In urban areas like Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, well-manicured gardens and excellent wildlife reserves add welcome nature to the cityscape.

Forests

In large swathes of the central Malay Peninsula and Borneo are rainforests almost as old as time. In west and east Malaysia, 27 national state parks make up the country’s protected forest reserves; the most well-known being the sprawling Taman Negara. First established by the British in 1938, the park stretches across Pahang’s borders and into Kelantan and Terengganu.

Across the South China Sea, orangutans and proboscis monkeys swing from trees, and rafflesia bloom on the jungle floors of Sabah and Sarawak. With the entire region of Borneo teeming with flora and fauna, even with weeks here you would never see it all. Still, short ventures are no less rewarding, particularly in the wildlife reserves and sanctuaries of Sepilok and Semenggoh. In Brunei, nature-lovers can see a portion of the well-preserved primary rainforest of Ulu Temburong National Park.

FAMILY ADVENTURES

Watch orangutans feeding at Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in the rainforests of Sabah.

Climb atop the bionic-looking Supertree, or admire flora at the Flower Dome and Cloud Dome at Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay.

Hop on a banana boat into the waters of Pulau Pangkor off the coast of Perak, or build sandcastles on the sandy, white beaches.

Pick all the strawberries you can eat at the berry farms in the temperate mountains of Cameron Highlands.

Climb and abseil across a thrilling rope course against the backdrop of lush greenery at Skytrex Adventure Langkawi.

Go on a river cruise through mangrove swamps, spotting mudskippers and other wildlife at Desaru Coast.

Mountains & Caves

At 4095m, Mt Kinabalu in Borneo is undoubtedly the star of the show. The journey up Malaysia’s highest peak takes you from a humid, tropical landscape up to cold, craggy cliffs – an irresistible climb for seasoned and budding climbers alike. In Peninsular Malaysia, Gunung Tahan – the highest here – rises 2187m above the ground within Taman Negara, though plenty of scenic hikes are dotted across the region’s mainland and islands.

A different world awaits inside Malaysia’s caves. In the darkness of the caverns of Borneo’s Gunung Mulu National Park, the daring will encounter bats by the millions, and swiftlets that make their nests. Meanwhile, on the west side of Malaysia, Perak’s Gua Tempurung beckons cave explorers, and the temples within Batu Caves invite all to step into the limestone.

Pulau Sipadan | Aleksandr Sadkov/shutterstock ©

Seas

Between the east and west coasts of Peninsular Malaysia and the seas of Borneo, diving and snorkelling is available year-round if you plan well. Peninsular Malaysia’s northeast has the most beautiful beaches and waters on the west coast; and in Borneo, the crystal-clear waters north of Sabah just might trick you into thinking you’re in paradise.

The Perhentian Islands are best for diving and snorkelling in Peninsular Malaysia, as are nearby Pulau Redang and the smaller islands in the vicinity. Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, a convenient ferry ride away from Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, is perfect for a quick trip to Borneo’s cerulean seas, but those in search of the ultimate dive should head to Pulau Sipadan, Semporna, or Pulau Mantanani, where the waters are as clear as they get.

More Outdoor Escapades

WILDLIFE SPOTTING

Row slowly along the river on a quiet trip through the mangrove forests in Kuala Selangor, with fireflies gently illuminating your way.

WHITEWATER RAFTING

Get wet and wild on a whitewater-rafting adventure down the tumultuous rapids of Selangor river at Kuala Kubu Bharu.

RIVER CRUISE

Spot proboscis monkeys, macaques, monitor lizards and more on a river cruise down Sabah’s Kinabatangan River.

BIRD-WATCHING

Spot the majestic hornbill and other entrancing bird species at Sarawak’s Piasau Nature Reserve.

URBAN PARKS

Admire beautiful rare orchids, ginger and themed gardens at the sprawling Singapore Botanic Gardens.

HIKING

Trek through Bukit Merah to find the unusual red-trunked trees with peeling barks unique to the area.

SURFING

Surf’s up when the monsoon approaches Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast – Cherating is where everyone goes to hit the waves.

ACTION AREAS

Where to find Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei’s best outdoor activities.

MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & BRUNEI

THE GUIDE

Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area, where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

City Mosque, Kota Kinabalu | Yusnizam Yusof/shutterstock ©

Kuala Lumpur

WHERE HISTORY AND MODERNITY MEET

From a humble settlement to buzzing multicultural metropolis, Kuala Lumpur is a sight to behold and city waiting to be experienced.

Kuala Lumpur skyline from KL Forest Eco Reserve | Zuhairi Ahmad/shutterstock ©

One can only imagine what Kuala Lumpur – meaning ‘muddy confluence’ – looked like when it first got its name. Beginning as a humble tin-mining settlement where the Klang and Gombak rivers converge, any trace of a tropical jungle landscape has since been replaced with monolithic skyscrapers, manicured parks, sprawling shopping malls and bustling streets.

Charlie Waradee/shutterstock ©

Meanwhile, the landmarks in the city only grow newer and shinier. Kuala Lumpur has two brand new megastructures, the Merdeka 118 and the Exchange 106 that now surpass the iconic Petronas Towers in height. Even so, none take the lustre away from the city’s older icons. Nineteenth-century buildings like the red-and-white-brick Sultan Abdul Samad Buildin, and the grand Masjid Jamek mosque remain in the city as beautiful examples of Moorish architecture, and a remnant of Malaysia’s past under British colonial rule.

Just as Kuala Lumpur’s cityscape is a mishmash of distinct styles and influences, so is the community that calls the city home. Three ethnic groups, Malay, Chinese and Indian, make up Kuala Lumpur’s main demographic, and this cultural diversity can be seen and experienced just about everywhere in the city – from grand mosques and century-old temples to historical quarters like Chinatown and Little India. But if you ask a local, they’ll likely tell you that the nicest way to experience KL’s rich cultural diversity is through food. Much like Penang, a trip to KL is not complete without sampling a slew of local dishes. Start your morning with a fragrant nasi lemak, or chow down on some greasy Hokkien mee for supper; there’s always food to be found in all corners of the city, and on food streets like Jln Alor, until the wee hours of the morning.

Beyond the city centre is where you’ll see the more laid-back side of KL – swap the sightseeing for cafe-hopping and trade late-night beers at the club for a teh tarik (pulled milk tea) in the cool night breeze. Like a good nasi kandar (mixed rice) spread, the city is a smorgasbord of experiences to pick and choose from, so stop by and load up your plate.

THE MAIN AREAS

BUKIT BINTANG & KLCC

KL’s main business and entertainment hub.

BUKIT NANAS & CHINATOWN

Centre for culture and heritage.

LAKE GARDENS, BANGSAR & AROUND

Green spaces, museums and cool suburbs.

BEYOND THE CITY CENTRE

Family-friendly parks and hip hangouts.

Find Your Way

Kuala Lumpur is a relatively small city, compact in some places and sparse in others. It’s possible to explore the city centre on foot or via public transport, but other areas are best accessed by car.

Plan Your Days

Spend the day within or near each neighbourhood to avoid having to deal with potential traffic and long travel times. Luckily, all are packed with things to see and do.

Kuala Lumpur skyline | Patrick Foto/shutterstock ©

Day 1

Morning

• Start your trip by getting a bird’s-eye view of KL from the top of the iconic Petronas Towers, followed by a stroll at KLCC Park.

Afternoon

• Make your way on foot via a link bridge to shopping haven Bukit Bintang. Get a selection of the best local cuisine all in one place at Lot 10 Hutong, then spend the hot afternoon weaving in and out of shopping malls.

Evening

• Down happy-hour pints at nightlife district Changkat Bukit Bintang, then walk to nearby Jalan Alor for some durian, street food and more local cooking.

Day 2

Morning

• Get some blood pumping with a gentle hike through Taman Eko Rimba, at the end of which you’ll arrive at the base of Menara KL. Head up to the open-air deck and see KL’s iconic skyscrapers in their full glory.

Afternoon

• Hop on a rideshare and head west towards the Sultan Abdul Samad Building. Get a taste of Kuala Lumpur’s history as you check out the other colonial-era buildings in the area before making a last stop at Central Market.

Evening

• Walk to Petaling St and take your dinner pick of trendy restaurants or tried-and-true local flavours, then clink glasses to a good evening at PS150.

Day 3

Morning

• Have a morning walk at the sprawling Perdana Botanical Garden and take in the green city views; then go meet some avian friends at KL Bird Park.

Afternoon

• Learn about Malaysia’s history at the National Museum, or see wondrous works of Islamic art and architecture at the Islamic Arts Museum; both within walking distance of the botanical gardens.

Evening

• Hitch a ride to Bangsar and get a dinner of banana leaf at Sri Nirwana Maju, or one of the hip bars and restaurants at APW. Finally, end your evening with cocktails at Coley.

YOU’LL ALSO WANT TO…

Do what the locals do and discover what lies beyond the major sights.

TRY NYONYA COOKING

Put an apron on and make some Peranakan food when you take a class at Sarang Cookery.

Ariyani Tedjo/shutterstock ©

REST & RELAX

Go to Hammam Spa or a massage parlour and get scrubbed and kneaded until all your worries melt away.

Microgen/shutterstock ©

VISIT MOSQUES & TEMPLES

Step into the grand National Mosque, or breathe in the smell of incense at Sin Sze Si Ya Temple.

Piotr Kloska/shutterstock ©

SEE WHERE THE YOUTHS HANG OUT

Catch an event at REXKL, browse records at Zhongshan Building, or cafe-hop around the city.

gracethang2/shutterstock ©

VISIT INDEPENDENT GALLERIES

Catch art exhibitions at Ilham Gallery, or independent creative projects and more at GMBB.

Uskarp/shutterstock ©

SMITH PEWTER

See how pewter is made, then hammer out a souvenir yourself at the Royal Selangor Visitor Centre.

Soong Kim Huei/shutterstock ©

CHILL IN THE SUBURBS

Join a crafting workshop at Me.Reka and spend an evening in laid-back neighbourhood bars.

Maron_Studio/Shutterstock ©

Bukit Bintang & KLCC

THE BUSTLING CENTRE OF KUALA LUMPUR

A bustling metropolis, vibrant culture and skyscrapers that point up to the heavens all conjure an image of Kuala Lumpur in your mind, and this neighbourhood is what encapsulates it all. At its heart is Malaysia’s national icon and what put the country on the world map – the 451.9m-tall Petronas Towers, now surrounded by new buildings that grow ever taller. The neighbourhood’s buildings work in harmony to create a cityscape that practically glitters at nightfall, and one can hardly grow sick of the view. Look around you and in just about every direction there are shopping malls, pubs, fancy restaurants and other urban excitements to discover. Bukit Bintang is simultaneously a shopper’s haven, a foodie’s dream and a partying night owl’s dig; and taking it all in, it’s clear that Kuala Lumpur’s past life as a muddy confluence is long forgotten. In its place is a city that shows no trace of having been a humble mining settlement.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Jalan Alor

2  Pavilion Kuala Lumpur

SIGHTS

3  Bukit Bintang City Centre

4  Exchange 106

5  GMBB

6  Thai Odyssey

7  Tun Razak Exchange

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

8  Sarang Cookery

SLEEPING

9  Anggun Boutique Hotel

10  KLoé Hotel

11  Kuala Lumpur Journal

12  Mov Hotel

13  Wolo Bukit Bintang

EATING

14  8Haus

15  Fat Brother Satay Lok-Lok

16  Hai Kah Lang

17  Lot 10 Hutong

18  Mongolia BBQ

19  New World Thai Food

20  Oversea Restaurant

21  Palillos Yakitori Bar

22  Restoran Win Heng Seng

23  Sai Woo

24  Wong Ah Wah

25  Yu Yi Bak Kut Teh

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

26  Ampersand Cafe

27  Bean Brothers BB

28  Old Shanghai

29  Pahit

30  Pisco Bar

31  Rabbit Hole

32  TREC

33  TWG Tea

34  V88 Starhill

35  VCR

ENTERTAINMENT

36  Berjaya Times Square Theme Park

37  Kuala Lumpur Pub Crawl

SHOPPING

38  Berjaya Times Square

39  Exchange TRX

40  Lot 10

41  Plaza Low Yat

42  Seibu

43  Starhill

44  Sungei Wang Plaza

TRANSPORT

45  KL Hop-On Hop-Off

TOP TIP

Even seasoned drivers can get intimidated by traffic this side of town, and things can get very congested. If travelling by car within the neighbourhood, do so in the later hours of the morning and afternoon to avoid getting caught in hour-long traffic jams.

Bukit Bintang | Matyas Rehak/shutterstock ©

Nonstop Shopping

Every mall imaginable

In Kuala Lumpur, spending weekends at the shopping mall is almost a national pastime. You’ll find one in nearly every neighbourhood in the Klang Valley, but the shopaholic’s heaven is none other than Bukit Bintang – an area occupied with malls where anyone is bound to find exactly what they’re looking for – whether that’s duty-free luxury, or bargain tech accessories.

One of the most popular malls in the area is Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, a large complex housing plenty of international fashion houses plus midrange options, too. Come festive season, the mall draws in shoppers by the hoard with their elaborate displays and decorations. But if you’re in the market for exclusive luxury items, head across the road to the Starhill. It’s usually much less populated compared to other malls in the area, creating the perfect atmosphere to browse at your leisure. Just down the road, Lot 10 is among Bukit Bintang’s older shopping malls, though it’s now popular with a younger crowd who go to experience Japanese culture and food at renowned Japanese department stores like Isetan and Don Don Donki. On the basement floor here is Lot 10 Hutong, a food court that has some of KL’s most famous restaurants under one roof – including superstars like Petaling St Hokkien mee stall, Kim Lian Kee.

Shoppers looking for a bargain on fashion and souvenirs can find all that and more at Sungei Wang Plaza, just across the road from Lot 10 via a pedestrian bridge. The touristy KL Hop On Hop Off Bus – if that’s your thing – also departs from the bus stop directly in front of the building. Berjaya Times Square has plenty of small, budget boutiques, plus an indoor theme park good for spending an hour or two in if travelling with children. For all things tech, take a peek inside Plaza Low Yat, a mall specialising in IT goods and repair stores.

BUKIT BINTANG CITY CENTRE

Bukit Bintang City Centre (BBCC) is the newest development in this area of Kuala Lumpur. There is (unsurprisingly) already a mall here: LaLaport. When completed, the area will eventually include residences, hotels, offices and transit hubs. The development project sits atop the grounds of the former Pudu Prison, originally built by the British in the late 19th century. The entire prison complex was demolished in 2012 to make way for development, with only part of the main gate now remaining. Prior to its demolition, adorning the prison’s exterior wall was a mural that stretched along its entire perimeter. Painted by former inmate Khong Yen Chong while serving his sentence, the mural depicted Malaysia’s vibrant tropical landscape.

Pubs, Clubs & Endless Pints

Nighttime at Changkat Bukit Bintang

Before there were Petaling St speakeasies, trendy neighbourhood bars and high-end clubs of 21st-century Kuala Lumpur, there was Changkat Bukit Bintang – Kuala Lumpur’s original nightlife district. Occupying a stretch of colonial-era shophouses are an interesting mishmash of bars, clubs and restaurants that together create a vibrant district that draws in locals, expats and tourists alike with promises of a fun night with plenty of variety, and a down-to-earth atmosphere.

Changkat Bukit Bintang, often shortened simply as ‘Changkat’, begins as a street that runs perpendicular to hawker-food-haven Jln Alor. Take a walk down here and you’ll spot pubs, sports bars, shisha parlours and themed restaurants; though there’s more to be discovered if you loop around the adjacent blocks. At Changkat, the vibe is often cool, casual and welcoming – few places have dress codes, and if you prefer to sip your drinks out in the tropical breeze over an air-conditioned bar, drop by on a clear night and snag one of the many bar tables that spill out onto the pavement. The eclectic selection of bars and pubs here means everyone is bound to find something that appeals to them; but if you’re looking for variety and some new friends too, Kuala Lumpur Pub Crawl (@klpubcrawlofficial) is an active group holding gatherings every Thursday and Saturday night where a RM130 joining fee gets you four drinks and entry to three bars.

A well-known tourist hot spot, there may be days when Changkat’s clientele seem more foreign than local. Friday and Saturday night (or when there’s a major football game) is when you’ll see more locals milling about.

DRINKING IN KL: CHANGKAT BUKIT BINTANG HOT SPOTS

Palillos Yakitori Bar Spanish- and Japanese-inspired grilled skewers and inventive cocktails in a trendy, casual setting. Book in advance.

Rabbit Hole Sip coffee or cocktails poured from the tap at this stylish cafe and bar. The neutral, minimalist interior features a pool!

Old Shanghai This popular 1920s Chinese-style restaurant in Changkat has an extensive food and cocktail menu you’ll definitely want to try.

Pisco Bar A wide open terrace, delicious food and live music events make this longstanding bar a favourite hangout for locals and expats alike.

TOP SIGHT

Kuala Lumpur City Centre

You can’t miss it – Kuala Lumpur’s most iconic structures, the Petronas Towers, are right here. The towers, along with the surrounding area – an upscale mall, a sprawling park, luxury hotels, a convention centre, an aquarium and other skyscrapers – are collectively known as Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), a symbol of Malaysia’s economic growth and modernisation.

f11photo/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for Petronas Towers ticket prices and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

Petronas Twin Towers

Twin Towers Observation Deck

Suria KLCC

Aquaria

Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra

Petrosains

KLCC Park

Petronas Twin Towers

Though long dethroned as the tallest buildings in the world – even KL’s two newest mega-structures, the Exchange 106 and Merdeka 118, now eclipse the twin towers in height – this pair of glittering architectural marvels remain the city’s most iconic landmark. Designed by architect César Pelli and officially opened in 1999, the 451.9m-tall Petronas Towers represented then-Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad’s ambitious vision of the country’s future – one of rapid economic growth and prosperity. Guests can peek inside the towers on group tours that go up to the glass connecting bridge and to the top of the building via high-speed elevator. On the uniquely shaped 86th-floor observation deck, you’ll catch a rare look at the pinnacle of the adjacent twin tower up close, and the bustling KL metropolis below. There are two tour slots every hour from 10am to 8pm; buy tickets in advance. Also at the base of the towers is the Petronas Philharmonic Hall, where the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly (mpo.com.my).

Suria KLCC

A luxury mall at the foot of the Petronas Towers, Suria KLCC buzzes with tourist activity at any time, but garners just as much local traffic – the mall’s simply a crowd-pleaser. Shoppers will have a blast browsing the international brands and department stores, and foodies will find ample local and international dining options – some with terrace seating that look out onto the well-manicured KLCC Park. If travelling with children, an afternoon at Petrosains will keep the kids entertained for a few hours. The interactive science and discovery centre with a focus on technology and the energy industry is jam-packed with all kinds of buttons, levers, and even robots and tablets that will have your child mashing, pulling and scribbling to their heart’s content.

KLCC Park

Swap KL’s near-constant air-con for fresh air at this 50-acre park next to Suria KLCC, a welcome patch of urban greenery with water features that keep temperatures cooler in the sometimes sweltering climate. The park’s paved tracks and well-manicured green are a perfect setting for an evening walk. For the best experience, start before dusk and loop around the park, arriving back at the mall entrance in time to see the beautifully lit Petronas Towers glowing amid other skyscrapers, plus a colourful water-fountain show at 8pm, 9pm and 10pm daily. Children will enjoy the playground and wading pool.

Aquaria KLCC

Sitting underneath the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Aquaria KLCC looks unassuming from the outside, but inside is a world of marine life from Malaysia’s tropical waters and beyond (plus otters!). You’ll see everything from colourful guppies to piranhas and other exotic river fish; but the highlight is the moving 90m tunnel that puts you right in the midst of the ocean, up close and personal with sharks, stingrays and other scurrying fish. Aquaria KLCC is popular with local families and young adults, so buying tickets online is recommended.

PETRONAS TOWERS PHOTOS

The best place to snap photos of the Petronas Towers (for free!) is the plaza in front of the buildings, where they look the most impressive. It gets crowded with tourists and vendors trying to peddle their wares, however. Alternatively, go to KLCC Park for a wider perspective – there’s no fear of crowds here, and the view is beautiful in the evening, when the lights come on.

TOP TIPS

• KLCC is crowded on weekends and public holidays. It’s best to buy tickets online in advance as queues aren’t always well-organised, especially during busy periods.

• Avoid traffic and travel between KLCC and Bukit Bintang on foot via the covered link bridge, just beyond Aquaria KLCC. The 10-minute walk takes you to Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.

• Traffic can get caught in a standstill, especially at evening rush hour (5pm to 8pm). Head to your next destination on foot or via public transport – the closest station is the KLCC LRT Station, inside Avenue K mall.

LATE NIGHT MUNCHIES

Got a hankering for some greasy, salty street grub after a night of booze and dancing? You won’t have to look far. Enter the lok-lok truck – vehicles decked out with their own boilers, fryers, and a whole lot of meat and vegetable skewers to choose from. Alternatively, keep an eye out for the quintessential Malaysian late-night guilty pleasure – a street-stall burger. These are often called Ramly burgers, for the homegrown brand of burger patties used in these sandwiches. And if you’re craving more variety still, take a short walk down to Jln Alor, where restaurants are serving chicken wings, tom yum, seafood and more until the early hours of the morning.

Spicy, Pungent, Fried

Sampling street food at Jalan Alor

Practically any time is a good time to eat in Kuala Lumpur, but nighttime is when the food scene truly comes alive. To experience it all, there’s no better place than at Jalan Alor. Within a 10-minute walk from the glitziest malls of Bukit Bintang, and a stone’s throw from nightlife hub Changkat Bukit Bintang, its clientele can range from casual foodies in cargo shorts to dolled-up partiers looking for a late-night fix.

Hawkers begin setting up at about 5pm and the parade of culinary delights continues until the wee hours of the morning, only ending at around 4am. Before you even get to Jln Alor, you’ll probably already smell it – the wafting scent of durian, fried chicken, cakes and more permeate the air, along with the unmistakeable odour of the whirring generators that keep the stalls powered. Take at least a trip down the entire stretch to see what all your options are – and there are a lot – before settling on a few things you might want to sample. Don’t miss the pungent durian when it’s in season, typically from June to September, and again in November and December. Another street food item popular with locals is lok-lok, assorted skewers that are boiled or fried and served with a variety of dipping sauces.

If you’re hungry for some dinner, behind the stalls are plenty of restaurants offering everything from spicy Thai food and fried rice, to fresh prawns sautéed in creamy salted egg. A must-try here is the fragrant, salty chicken wings at Jln Alor’s legendary Wong Ah Wah. You can eat in at a different restaurant nearby and still order the chicken wings – just tell them where you’ll be sitting, and they’ll deliver some savoury goodness right to you.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: JALAN ALOR ALL-STARS

Fat Brother Satay Lok-lok $ Lok-lok stall with lots of seafood and assorted skewers, served grilled, fried, or boiled with a side of sweet peanut-satay sauce.

Sai Woo $ Popular restaurant serving delicious local Chinese fare, from fragrant fried rice to lala clams tossed in a spicy soy-based sauce called kam heong.

New World Thai Food $ No-frills Thai restaurant where you can fill up on sour and spicy tom yum and other authentic dishes, across the road from Wong Ah Wah.

Mongolia BBQ $ Drop by if you love skewers and chicken wings. They’re served fresh off the grill and coated in mouth-watering spices. Around the corner from Jln Alor.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Aquaria KLCC

2  KLCC Park

3  Petronas Towers

SIGHTS

4  Ilham

5  Petrosains: The Discovery Centre

SLEEPING

6  Bed KLCC

7  RuMa

EATING

8  Blackbyrd

9  Dewakan

10  Fuego

11  Nobu Kuala Lumpur

12  Sabayon at EQ

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

13  Heli Lounge Bar

14  Marini’s on 57

15  Pitt Club

16  Skybar

17  Pitt Club

SHOPPING

See 4  Ilham Gift Shop

18  Isetan

19  Suria KLCC

The Brand New Exchange

Kuala Lumpur’s towering new CBD

Rising above the Petronas Twin Towers and surrounded by even more glassy skyscrapers and LEDs is Kuala Lumpur’s newest business hub and burgeoning hot spot, Tun Razak Exchange (TRX). The 70-acre development is the city’s new central business and finance district, with offices, hotels, residences, green spaces and in true KL fashion – a shopping mall. A 15-minute walk from Bukit Bintang will get you here; just head in the direction of the Exchange 106. The obelisk-like building with a crown on top is now the city’s second-tallest building, behind Merdeka 118.

The Exchange 106 houses private offices and isn’t open for public access, though the Exchange TRX, a premium shopping mall located at the base of the tower, is worth the trip. Only opening its doors at the end of 2023, the brand new mall exudes glitz and glamour, and is where you’ll find everything from international luxury fashion brands to imported produce at Japanese department store, Seibu. If shopping isn’t really your thing, come here on a cool night and hang out at the plaza in front of the mall, where you’ll also get a cool view of the illuminated skyscrapers that surround it. Alternatively, head up to the beautiful rooftop park in the evening for a stroll. The family-friendly park gives adults plenty of space to breathe and relax, while little ones will enjoy climbing and sliding around the different play areas.

JALAN ALOR TOP TIPS

Buying local fruit

If sampling local fruit, don’t stop at the first stall you see. Prices at stalls further down the street may have lower prices.

Panhandlers

Tourists will often be approached by panhandlers when eating at restaurants here. Give money at your own discretion.

Carry cash

Though some stores have card and e-payment options, it’s still best to carry cash just in case.

Peddlers

Sellers peddling trinkets and flowers abound, though give them a firm ‘no’ and they’ll usually walk away without a fuss.

When to Go

Jln Alor is liveliest between 7pm and 10pm.

KL from the Top

Wine and dine above the city

With glittering icons like the Petronas Towers among some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers, Kuala Lumpur’s impressive skyline is also one of the world’s most beautiful. Opportunities to pause and enjoy the view (beyond the usual observation decks of course) are aplenty in the city, ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to casual open-air bars.

For special occasions and a night to remember, pick from one of the city’s many fine-dining restaurants and spend the evening wining and dining high above the ground. Many of these are as fancy as you might expect – like Nobu Kuala Lumpur at the Four Seasons Hotel, or Thirty8 at the Grand Hyatt. But if ultra-fancy isn’t your thing, Troika Sky Dining has a few slightly more casual restaurant options to choose from, and you’ll still get an equally great view.

Looking for a cool place for post-dinner cocktails instead? Kuala Lumpur has you covered, too – simply head on up to the city’s numerous rooftop bars and clubs. For the most unique and toe-curling experience, try Heli Lounge Bar – a helipad by day, and entirely open-air bar-slash-dance-floor by night.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: LOCAL JALAN IMBI FAVOURITES

Yu Yi Bak Kut Teh $ Light bak kut teh pork stew packed with herbal flavour located just across the road from TRX.

Oversea Restaurant $$ The honey-glazed char siew pork at this longstanding Cantonese restaurant along Jln Imbi is to die for.

Restoran Win Heng Seng $ Corner-lot hawker centre along Jln Imbi with plenty of delicious lunch and dinner options. Try the Hokkien mee at night.

Hai Kah Lang $ Casual restaurant near TRX serving noodle soup packed with oodles of fresh seafood. Expect a queue during lunch hours.

KL from Heli Lounge Bar | Vladimir Zhoga/shutterstock ©

THE EVENING CONTINUES

Wrapped up an evening at the Exchange TRX but don’t want the night to end? Head over to TREC, an entertainment complex occupied exclusively by bars, clubs, live-music venues and supper spots that open until late, welcoming all of KL’s night owls and party-goers with thumping music and ice-cold beers. TREC tends to attract a younger crowd compared to nearby Changkat Bukit Bintang, with more of the establishments here being loud, neon-lit bars rather than pubs. Dress code at clubs is smart casual, so wear long pants and covered shoes. For the latest goings-on, visit @treckualalumpur on Instagram.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: ROOFTOP BARS

Shhhbuuuleee Drink highballs and get delicious tapas to share at this casual, modern izakaya hidden on the rooftop of REXKL.

Marini’s on 57 Ritzy bar offering an unbeatable close-up view of the Petronas Towers. There’s also a whisky and cigar lounge. Smart dress code.

Sky Bar Cool bar and party space inside Traders Hotel featuring a pool (though not for dipping) and a view of the Petronas Towers.

Mantra Though a little further out from the city, this modern bar features outdoor balcony space on which to sip drinks and get a panoramic view of KL.

Ilham Tower | Paco Como/shutterstock ©

Contemporary Art in the City

Visiting Ilham Gallery

A five-minute walk from the hulking Petronas Towers, the geometric Ilham Tower is an impressive building in its own right. While its cool dark facade lends it a rather intimidating look, venture inside and you’ll find yourself in one of the city’s best contemporary-art galleries. And the cherry on top? It’s free. On display here within the Ilham collection is a long roster of contemporary Malaysian artists and a few from the Southeast Asian region, whose works range from sculptures to batik paintings. The temporary exhibitions here are worth seeing, too – often centred around thought-provoking works of art from professional artists and amateurs, curated to spark conversations. Past exhibitions have included Projek 555, which offered a peek into the lives of average Malaysians during the COVID-19 pandemic lockdowns, documented in the form of visual diaries sent in by project participants.

Spend an hour or two taking in all that Ilham Gallery has to offer, then head to the 5th floor and visit the excellent gift shop and cafe. Be sure to browse the books, zines, postcards, handmade items and more on display here, sourced from artists and artisans from across the country. On your way out of the building, stop and admire the glossy sculptures on display, including one by Chinese artist and activist, Ai WeiWei.

RESTAURANTS WITH A VIEW

Dewakan

Ranked one of Asia’s best restaurants, with two well-earned Michelin stars. Fine Malaysian cooking featuring locally and sustainably sourced ingredients.

Sabayon at EQ

French restaurant on the top floor of EQ hotel. Cool modern vibe and spectacular Petronas Towers views.

Fuego

Sip mojitos and savour ceviche at this chic Troika Sky Dining restaurant. The balcony gives diners unblemished views of the KL skyline.

Entier French Dining

It’s fine dining, but you won’t find tiny dishes here – only good, substantial French cuisine made to share. It’s not downtown KL, but there’s a great view nonetheless.

Blackbyrd

Delicious food, drinks and a nice city view without the splurge. The menu has local dishes and Western fare.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: CITY CAFES

Ampersand Cafe Minimalist cafe inside Lot 10 serving coffee, mocktails and scrumptious pastries for when you need to fuel up.

V88 Starhill Sit on the balcony for a great view of Bukit Bintang, and watch the world go by between bites of yakitori and other Japanese-inspired dishes.

TWG Tea Singapore’s famous tea brand has a store inside the fancy Pavilion mall. Choose from its never-ending menu of tea.

Bean Brothers BB Espresso, but experimental. Large windows that look out onto the street make it perfect for people-watching.

Bukit Nanas, Chinatown & Around

WHERE HERITAGE SHINES

Menara KL sits atop Bukit Nanas like a needle, while Merdeka 118 casts its shadow upon bustling Petaling St; but sitting quietly under Southeast Asia’s tallest buildings are remnants of KL’s rich history. When Malaysia came under British colonial rule in the 19th century, this part of the city was the centre of colonial administration, a role that shaped much of its infrastructure and urban layout. Petaling St was where many Chinese labourers settled during the tin rush, and retains a distinct, retro Chinatown vibe today, though certain gentrified portions of the neighbourhood now draw a more youthful crowd. Kuala Lumpur’s most iconic old buildings are here, too – grand, brick structures done up in a fusion of Western and Eastern styles characteristic of colonial-era architecture. All this combined with the city’s ultra-high-rises give KL its two distinct faces – one of the past, and another of the future.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Masjid Jamek Sultan Abdul Sama

2  Menara KL

3  Merdeka Square

SIGHTS

4  Godown

5  KL Forest Eco Park

6  National Textile Museum

7  Royal Selangor Club

8  Sultan Abdul Samad Building

EATING

9  Sangeetha Veg Restaurant

10  Soong Kee Beef Noodles & Low Yau Kee Porridge

11  Yut Kee

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12  Light Capture Cafe

TOP TIP

Though you might have to pay close attention to oncoming traffic (pedestrian crossing lights are sometimes in a dubious state of function), much of this area is walkable. Haggling is not only allowed at Petaling St, but sometimes even expected – never pay the asking price without at least attempting to lower it first.

The Historical Chinese Quarters

What to see and eat in Chinatown

Flanked by two red arches on either end, Petaling St (or Chinatown, or Chee Cheong Kai as some ethnic Chinese locals would call it) is a cacophony of sights and smells. Here, the aroma (or stench, depending on who you ask) of durian wafts from corners of the street, mixed with the smoky scent of roasting chestnuts, while vendors along the roughly 1km-long street peddle everything from budget fashions to colourful tobacco products. In the 1800s when Malaya (now Peninsular Malaysia) became a centre for tin mining, this area of Kuala Lumpur was where many Cantonese and Hakka immigrants settled when they arrived in the country from China in pursuit of fortune. It was also where an important figure in the development of Kuala Lumpur, Yap Ah Loy, owned a tapioca mill – Chee Cheong Kai translates from Cantonese to ‘starch factory street’. Modern-day Petaling St, however, is best known for two things: bargaining for goods at already-low prices, and some of the best food in the city.

And when it comes to food, the keyword here is simplicity. Locals come here for comfort food – classic flavours derived from time-tested recipes that hark back decades, even centuries. At the intersection of Petaling St and Jln Hang Lekir is one such place: Kim Lian Kee has been serving one of KL’s most beloved dishes, Hokkien mee, since 1927. Here, thick noodles are fried in lard and dark soy sauce over a charcoal fire, and the result is a fragrant, savoury dish punctuated with a delightful crunch from the crispy pork lard mixed in. Other shops and stalls that enjoy somewhat of a legendary status in this part of Chinatown include Lai Foong Lala Noodles, whose lala (clam) noodles earned the shop a spot in the Michelin Guide; and Sze Ngan Chye, a pushcart that’s been a Petaling St mainstay for over 70 years, famous for salted roast duck served with a seriously potent, savoury sauce. The latter can be hard to spot as there isn’t a shop sign – just plastic sheets with three Chinese characters: 四眼仔.

Along the entire stretch of Petaling St, vendors and their cheap wares will clamour for your attention; but, to see the version of Chinatown from decades past, one only needs to look up, or behind the stalls. Many of the buildings that rise above the usual hubbub still carry signboards from when they were first established, likely in the ’60s and ’70s or earlier, spelling out pawn shops, old watch shops, salons, budget hotels, Chinese medicine halls and more, often in three languages – Malay, English and Chinese. Though the stalls that occupy the forefront tend to render these rather dilapidated structures in the background as inaccessible and often overlooked, these remnants of old Chinatown are what give the area a retro quality that grows increasingly rare as the city continues to modernise.

Certain corners of Petaling St outside the main market stretch have been attracting a more youthful crowd. At the centre of all this is the ultra-Instagrammable Kwai Chai Hong, a small alleyway near Pasar Seni MRT Station with a wheelchair-accessible ramp and walls adorned with murals that depict what life might’ve been like in 1960s Chinatown, complete with classic Chinese music piped through hidden speakers. Peek into any of the doors here, and inside are trendy bars and cafes that would be right up any young adult’s alley. Also occupying the buildings in the vicinity are some of Chinatown’s oldest restaurants, which similarly received a hip new facelift to keep with the times. It’s impossible to miss the bright yellow Bunn Choon Restaurant, which has been serving its delectable dim sum and flaky Chinese pastries (don’t leave without buying a few egg tarts) for over a century – since 1893. Next door is Hainanese kopitiam (coffee shop) Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam, where lines still form bright and early in the morning now as in the past, all for a classic breakfast of kaya toast and cham, a sweet and rich blend of coffee and tea.

WHY I LOVE PETALING STREET

Winnie Tan, writer

When my parents would recount stories of their youth, many of these tales would be anchored here in Chinatown. They were the experts on where to find the best asam laksa, where to get the best film photographs taken, or unwanted facial moles removed. I have childhood memories of going to Chinese medicine halls with my mother and peering into glass jars filled with dried ginseng and other gnarled roots, and afterwards being rewarded with bargain toys and clothes for managing to sit still. New developments have vastly changed the landscape of the old Chinatown my parents told of, but there are remnants of it everywhere still – ones that I keep coming back to rediscover.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: PETALING STREET EATS

Soong Kee Beef Noodles & Low Yau Kee Porridge $ KL’s best beef noodles and porridge in one place. Come hungry and get a bowl of each.

Kafei Dian $ Hainanese kopitiam housed in a former post office, built in 1911 in a combination of Malay and Tudor-style architecture.

Madras Lane Hawkers $ Malaysian-Chinese favourites like chee cheong fun (steamed rice roll) and yong tau fu (tofu and veg with fish or meat paste).

Mee Tarik Restoran $ Popular Muslim-friendly Chinese restaurant. Spicy hand-pulled noodles and tongue-numbing Sichuan dishes.

Recreational Spaces

Arts, crafts and youth culture

Why rebuild when you can repurpose? That seems to the underlying theme of KL’s hippest art venues and youth hangouts. As the city continued its steady development over the past several years, previously forgotten old warehouses, cinemas and shophouses saw themselves converted into independent art galleries, event spaces and cafes – and attracting a new, youthful crowd in the process.

Visiting REXKL near Petaling St, you’ll see the same chipped mosaic-tiled steps leading up to the complex as when the building served as a cinema in the 1970s – with the original signs by the stairwells directing movie-goers to their seats still intact. When the hall is open for events (see @hellorexkl for the latest goings-on), the sloped, former cinema hall becomes an exhibition space (or dance floor). The Godown (@thegodownkl), on Jln Ampang, is another arts venue in a century-old warehouse, offering space for independent artists to exhibit their work, conduct craft workshops, perform and connect. South of the Petaling St area, the Zhongshan Building (@thezhongshanbuilding) is a complex of small studios, cafes and other cosy nooks that you can spend an afternoon in. News on the latest events and happenings for any of these venues can be found on Instagram, as one might expect from places frequented by 20- to 30-somethings.

GMBB (@gmbb.kl) is a mall doubling as a creative space – artists can rent out lots within the building to showcase their work, sell secondhand books, paint and create. Works on display here can range from amateur to professional; standouts include Fusion Wayang Kulit, which reimagines pop-culture characters like Darth Vader as traditional wayang kulit leather shadow puppets; Gallery Gerimis, a space dedicated to sharing Orang Asli (indigenous peoples) narratives; and Masters of Disguise, a nature photography exhibition of bugs and other fauna in camouflage.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Central Market

2  Petaling Street Market

3  Sri Mahamariamman Temple

SIGHTS

4  Guan Di Temple

5  Kwai Chai Hong

6  REXKL

7  Sin Sze Si Ya Temple

SLEEPING

8  Else Kuala Lumpur

9  Lantern Hotel

10  Mingle Hostel

11  Tian Jing Hotel

12  Yu Hotel

EATING

13  Bunn Choon

14  Chō Chǎ Foodstore

15  Da Bao Restobar

16  Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam

17  Hungry Tapir

18  Kafei Dian

19  Kim Lian Kee

20  LaGula

21  Lai Foong Lala Noodles

22  Madras Lane Hawkers

23  Mee Tarik Restoran

24  Merchant’s Lane

25  Petaling Street Apek’s Apam

26  Shhhbuuuleee

27  Sze Ngan Chye

28  Voilà

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

29  Attic Bar

30  Ching Ching by Pandan Republic

31  Concubine

See 34  Jao Tim

32  Leaf & Co Cafe

33  Niko Neko Matcha 2.0

34  Overseas Chinese Tea Atelier

See 15  Penrose

See 24  PS150

35  ShuangXi

36  Small Shifting Space

SHOPPING

37  Earth Heir

38  Kanoe

TRANSPORT

39  Pasar Seni MRT

RIVER OF LIFE

Established in 2011, the River of Life project aims to transform KL’s waterfronts, particularly those surrounding the Klang River, into clean, accessible areas for the community. Efforts included cleaning up the river, widening pathways for pedestrians and cyclists, and beautifying the area – the fruit of which can be seen as you travel on foot between KL’s heritage buildings. As you walk between Central Market and the National Textile Museum, stop at Masjid Jamek Lookout Point, where the Klang River forks. Here, the Mughal and Moorish-style architecture of Masjid Jamek Sultan Abdul Samad, one of Malaysia’s oldest mosques, can be seen alongside buildings with their facades covered entirely in colourful art. The area is lit up in spectacular blue in the evening, accompanied by jetting fountains and mist.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: CLUBS & MUSIC

Pitt Club The hottest club in Kuala Lumpur right now, with local and international DJs bringing the party. Dress codes apply.

Jao Tim Live your 1920s fantasy at this art-deco bar that doubles as a jazz and music club, with acts brought to you by some of KL’s best musicians.

Attic Bar Rooftop bar that’s the whole package. Cool vibes, amazing cocktails and fun music to dance to late into the night.

Concubine Get great food, cocktails and music at this retro-meets-neon bar at Petaling St’s Kwai Chai Hong.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: VEGANS & VEGETARIANS

Hungry Tapir $$ Pastas, burgers and more are reimagined with local flavours at this hip vegan joint near Kwai Chai Hong.

Voilà $ Chinese restaurant with an extensive menu that includes meat-free local dishes like tofu satay.

LaGula $$ Instagram-worthy cafe known for its breakfast menu, plus lots of cakes and pastries. By the folks behind the Hungry Tapir.

Sangeetha Veg Restaurant $ Popular Indian restaurant featuring a full vegetarian menu, plus all kinds of curries and flat breads.

Kuala Lumpur Past & Present

KL’s iconic heritage buildings

Kuala Lumpur’s skyscrapers may climb ever higher, but also here in the city are historical buildings with some of the world’s most interesting architecture – brick buildings with shapely domes, arches and more that tell a story of the country’s past.

Spend an afternoon getting acquainted with Kuala Lumpur’s past, beginning your journey at Central Market. An art-deco-style structure now painted in a cool shade of pastel blue, this is the best place in the city to check out local arts and crafts, buy souvenirs, or simply take in Kuala Lumpur’s multicultural nature at a glance. First established in 1888 by Capitan Yap Ah Loy as a wet market, the building has undergone several changes and expansions, with the design we see now dating to the 1930s; though the entire complex was very nearly demolished in the 1980s before successful petitions put a halt to it.

A five-minute walk from here across the Klang River is the National Textile Museum, an alternating red-and-white-striped Mughal-style building constructed in 1905. Though the building first served as railway offices, the now-museum has Malaysia’s colourful costumes and textiles on display, including batik, songket (hand-woven pieces of silk and gold thread), and the processes involved in creating these beautiful pieces.

Directly next to the museum is the Sultan Abdul Samad Building. With its clock tower, copper domes, and facade done in red and white brick, it’s perhaps one of Kuala Lumpur’s most iconic heritage buildings. The building served as government offices for the British colonial administration in the 19th century. It was later renamed after the ruling sultan of Selangor state at the time when construction began.

The well-manicured field across the road from here is Merdeka Square, or Independence Square. Also renamed after Malaya (now Malaysia) gained independence from the British in 1957 – the historic declaration of which was announced here on the field as the Malayan flag replaced the Union Jack on the flagpole. Prior to the country’s independence, the field was where sporting events would be held for members of the Selangor Club (now Royal Selangor Club), where expatriates and officials at the time would frequently gather. The headquarters, a Tudor-style building that can be seen from the square, was constructed in 1910 and designed by English architect AB Hubback – whose work includes many of Kuala Lumpur’s iconic heritage buildings – including both the National Textile Museum and the Sultan Abdul Samad Building.

BEST LOCAL BUSINESSES

Ana Tomy

Stationery shop selling custom notebooks and journals, with sleeves featuring artwork from both local and international artists.

Inkaa

A handmade batik workshop with a mission to uplift marginalised communities and limit environmental impact – from providing equitable pay to only using natural dyes.

Re{me}dy

Natural personal-care shop creating sustainable, small-batch products. Also stocks other local sustainable brands.

Kanoe

Not your typical batik. Pieces come in trendy, fashion-forward designs, with cloth remnants being made into cute accessories and coasters.

Earth Heir

Locally sourced and produced items made in close collaboration with artisans that go towards supporting marginalised communities.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: HIP RESTAURANTS

8Haus $ Nasi lemak is served with a slice of pork roulade here, with crispy skin. Menu includes local and Western favourites with a slight twist.

Chō Chǎ Foodstore $$ Beyond the doors of a seemingly abandoned hotel; elevated local fare prepared with locally sourced ingredients.

Da Bao Restobar $$ Lots of handmade bao buns, including one with a whole soft-shell crab sandwiched between buns.

Small Shifting Space (SSS) $$ Intimate restaurant and wine bar in an old shophouse with natural wines, delicate cocktails and good food.

ECLECTIC ROJAK

Rojak – a dish serving as an accurate representation of Malaysia’s fusion of culture and flavours – comes in different varieties. The original mix of sour and tangy fruit in a dark, spicy, caramel-like dressing is a Malay and Indonesian dish, though the local Chinese rojak vendor might sprinkle crispy, fried-dough sheets and tofu puffs in for some added texture. Then there’s Indian rojak – also called pasembur or mamak rojak – that’s a mix of soft dough fritters, grated and fried coconut, cucumber, prawn fritters, and other crunchy and crispy ingredients covered in a sweet, slightly spicy peanut sauce. It got its start from Malaysia’s many mamak (Indian-Muslim) stalls, though it’s often also sold from food trucks.

Flavour in Fusion

Nyonya cooking and more

Malaysian flavour is sort of a rojak of everything – as mixed and varied culturally as the dish; a jumble of fruit, vegetables and nuts tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce whose name literally means an eclectic mix. The melting pot of KL is where you’ll find many instances of unique Malaysian flavour combinations without having to go far.

Perhaps the most well-known instance of food born from the fusion of two cultures is Peranakan (also called Nyonya) cuisine, which traces its origin to the 14th century in the state of Melaka. It’s worth making a trip down to the southern state for the real deal, but for a taste of it in the city, stop by Sarang Cookery. This restaurant and cooking studio sits within an old, refurbished house along Jln Galloway, bringing irresistible Nyonya flavours (and a heaping serving of passion) to the table. Drop in to try its nasi ulam, a classic Peranakan dish of rice with an array of finely chopped herbs, or flavourful ayam pongteh, a stir-fried chicken dish packed with shallots and flavoured with fermented bean paste. But if you have half a day to spare, owner Li Li will give you a crash course on Peranakan culture and local herbs, and you’ll learn how to make a full-course Peranakan meal in the process. Reservations are required to eat in, while cooking classes are available Tuesday to Sunday – drop them a text to sign up (vegan and vegetarian menu available).

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: CAFES & TEAROOMS

Overseas Chinese Tea Atelier Sample Chinese tea at this modern tearoom in Chinatown, expertly brewed and served before you.

Niko Neko Matcha 2.0 Modern, minimalist cafe in Chinatown doling out flavourful matcha lattes that local youths can’t seem to get enough of.

Ching Ching by Pandan Republic Cafe near Kwai Chai Hong serving Nyonya cakes and pandan-infused goodies – like pandan soft serve.

Yut Kee Restaurant A traditional Hainanese cafe near Menara KL. Famous for its roast pork (weekends only) and deep-fried pork chop.

VCR Chill out with a coffee and avocado toast at this cosy cafe with upstairs seating on Jln Galloway, where brunch is served until 3.30pm.

Merchant’s Lane Laid-back cafe with Petaling St flair. Upstairs from a stationery shop – there’s no signage, so look for the bright green door.

Light Capture Cafe The overgrown, grungy exterior is easy to spot. Inside is an open space with an industrial vibe with plenty of sunlight.

Leaf & Co Cafe Satisfy your sweet tooth with the tasty cakes at this cafe in a large old shophouse in one of the busier areas of Chinatown.

National Textile Museum | TK Kurikawa/shutterstock ©

BEST MALAYSIAN DISHES

Kam Heong Crab

Crab tossed in fragrant Chinese, Malay and Indian sauces and spices. A must-try at Chinese seafood restaurants.

Bak Kut Teh

Malaysians and Singaporeans will argue about bak kut teh – the Malaysian version is a rich, dark pork stew flavoured with potent herbs and spices like star anise.

Kuih

Traditional Malay and Nyonya cakes, often made with rice flour (and sometimes sticky rice). Bright, colourful and usually flavoured with pandan, coconut and bean pastes.

Banana Leaf

Popular Malaysian Indian dish of assorted vegetables, fritters and rice served atop banana leaf, with a splash of curry or dhal.

Satay

Marinated chicken or beef skewers barbecued over charcoal. Served with peanut sauce, onion, cucumbers and ketupat (packed rice cakes).

COLOURFUL CHINATOWN

This walking tour will show you the most vibrant facets of Petaling St. Beginning at 1 Pasar Seni MRT (Gate A), head north up Jln Tun H S Lee to visit KL’s oldest Hindu Temple, 2 Sri Mahamariamman. Turn back and walk south down Jln Panggong and stop by a cafe or kopitiam (coffee shop) for a meal and coffee. Alternatively, continue around the block and you’ll arrive at 3 Bunn Choon Restaurant, famous for its dim sum and flaky egg tarts. The building’s 2nd-floor facade is a re-creation of Madras, an old Petaling St cinema built by Hong Kong film company Shaw Brothers before it burned down in the 1970s. Tucked behind the building is artsy 4 Kwai Chai Hong, which, in addition to its murals, holds art installations from time to time. In the evening, the doors open to hip bars. Exit and head north up the alley and turn right. Continue until you reach a junction – you’ll see the large Chinese-style arch that marks the entrance to 5 Petaling Street Market. Make your way through the covered market, picking up a local snack or beverage like an apam (sweet nut-filled pancake-like pastry) from 6 Petaling Street Apek’s Apam, located near an intersection with Jln Hang Lekir. Turn left here, then proceed further until you come to another intersection. Turn left, and the bright-red 7 Guan Di Temple, which was established in 1888, sits on your left. KL’s oldest Taoist temple, 8 Sin Sze Si Ya, built by Yap Ah Loy in 1864 is further north. End the tour by heading east, then down Jln Sultan to reach 9 REXKL, a cool event space and youth hangout converted from the shell of another old Chinatown cinema, REX.

Nature & Cityscapes

Views from Bukit Nanas

If you can’t decide whether to get a bird’s-eye view of the Kuala Lumpur skyline or go bird-spotting, you can do both at Bukit Nanas – an enclave smack dab in the middle of the city that’s home to KL Forest Eco Park, a forest reserve that’s one of Malaysia’s oldest (gazetted in 1906), and Menara Kuala Lumpur, a spindle-like telecommunications tower and one of the city’s earliest skyscrapers.

A rewarding way to experience both is to hike up from the KL Forest Eco Park entrance at the foot of the hill (E3 Entrance), traversing above the treetops via the canopy walkway (called titian silara on maps and signposts) until you reach the base of Menara Kuala Lumpur. The roughly 30-minute, paved hike is easy enough for beginners and older children, and you’ll also spot birds and swinging macaques along the way. Admission for non-Malaysians is RM40 (RM5 for children aged six to 12). To get the most bang for your buck, keep going when you reach the exit near the tower base and explore the woods a little more before doubling back, as you won’t be issued a ticket or receipt for re-entry.

Visitors have two ticket options to choose from when going up Menara Kuala Lumpur (also known colloquially as KL Tower) – head up the indoor observation deck at 276m for RM49, or the open-air Sky Deck at 300m, which includes photo opportunities at the glass-bottomed Sky Box for RM99 (RM29 and RM52 respectively for children). The latter may be closed on days with bad weather, but the unblemished, panoramic views of the entire city you’ll get can be well worth the price. It’s also here where you’ll get the best views of KL’s biggest icons: the Petronas Twin Towers and Merdeka 118. If forgoing the hike, the best time to visit is at night, when the city’s skyline practically glitters with all the lights coming off the skyscrapers. It’s also a popular time for locals, too, so buy tickets online in advance or avoid weekends to get ahead of the crowd.

MERDEKA 118

Standing at 678.9m tall with 118 floors and a distinct horn-like spire, Merdeka 118 is currently the world’s second-tallest building, behind Dubai’s Burj Khalifa. The RM5 billion mega project took approximately seven years to build and is near completion at time of writing – with opening slated for 2024. When fully complete, the tower will feature Southeast Asia’s highest observation deck, a seven-storey mall, a Park Hyatt hotel, premium offices, and other recreational and entertainment facilities. The name Merdeka, which means ‘independence’ in Malay, along with the silhouette of the building, is meant to evoke the iconic moment in 1957 when Malaysia’s first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, declared the country’s independence from British colonial rule.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: BARS & SPEAKEASIES

PS150 Behind the facade of an old-school toy shop is this secret den of exposed brick interiors and neon. Cocktails draw inspiration from Southeast Asian flavours.

Pahit At this quiet bar occupying an old building from the 1920s, gin takes centre stage. Gin of all kinds, plus an array of expertly crafted gin-based cocktails to choose from.

Shuangxi An unmarked black door is your entrance to this bohemian bar, where patrons sit cross-legged on the floor, surrounded by retro knick-knacks and movie posters.

Penrose Inside a shophouse near Petaling St’s arches is this dark, modern bar that exudes sophistication. Here, classic cocktails are elevated into works of art.

Lake Gardens, Bangsar & Around

SPRAWLING PARKS AND URBAN LIFESTYLES

This neighbourhood begins at the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park – Kuala Lumpur’s largest green space, first established by British colonial powers in the 19th century. The park now provides city-dwellers (and many species of native fauna) respite from the city’s concrete jungle and is a cultural centre housing two of the city’s major museums. It’s also in this neighbourhood where you’ll witness the most important places of worship for some of the city’s multicultural citizens. Here, the scent of joss sticks waft from Buddhist temple altars, and ornate patterned tiles gleam as worshippers filter through mosque doors. Head just slightly out from the city centre, and you’ll experience the more laid-back pace of KL’s upscale suburbs and yuppie haven, Bangsar and Mont Kiara, where a typical day involves hopping from one trendy cafe to another, then chilling out at lively bars and hookah lounges at night.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Thean Hou Temple

SIGHTS

2  APW

3  Hammam Spa

SLEEPING

4  Alila Bangsar

5  Amari Kuala Lumpur

6  Sekeping Tenggiri

EATING

7  Breakfast Thieves

See 4  Entier French Dining

8  Jaslyn Cakes

9  Kaiju

10  Lisette’s Cafe & Bakery

11  Marmalade

12  Nasi Kandar Pelita

13  Original Penang Kayu Nasi Kandar

14  Sri Nirwana Maju

15  Three Guys Cafe

16  Uncle Rahmat

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

17  Bilique Bangsar

18  Coley

See 16  Hani Eatery

19  Juliet Wine Bar

20  JUS Restobar

21  Mantra Bar KL

22  Pulp Coffee

23  Starbucks Bangsar Village II

24  Unwined

SHOPPING

25  Bangsar Village I

26  Bangsar Village II

27  Gardens Mall

28  Lilin+Co

29  Mid Valley Megamall

30  Nala Designs

31  Pakka Publishing

32  Pestle & Mortar

33  Whimsigirl

TRANSPORT

34  KL Sentral Station

TOP TIP

Though somewhat well-connected by public transport, the neighbourhood beyond Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park is not very pedestrian-friendly. Bangsar’s Jln Telawi area is the only place where exploration on foot is possible, so the best way to move between areas is to hire a Grab, even if only for short distances.

MALAYSIA’S KING & PALACE

Sitting atop a hill in the otherwise quiet neighbourhood of Sri Hartamas is Istana Negara, or National Palace. The sprawling complex and grounds, topped with large yellow domes, is where the head of state, the Yang di-Pertuan Agong lives. Nine out of the 13 states of Malaysia are headed by monarchs, called Sultans, who take turns being the head of state. Visitors are not allowed beyond the main gates of the palace.

Bangsar Cafe Hop

Brunch, bakes and coffee

Looking for a caffeine fix? Copy younger locals and head to Bangsar to spend an afternoon hopping from one cafe to the next. A neighbourhood known for cool restaurants and hangouts, Bangsar is perfect when you just want to relax with good food, coffee and maybe some dessert.

If you love brunch, start at Breakfast Thieves, where everything is delicious. The inventive menu includes elevated versions of brunch classics like eggs Benedict and French toast, but for local flair, try dishes like Admiral Cheng-ho, an aglio e olio topped with kam heong clams, or its version of chicken and char siu rice, comically dubbed ‘bastardised rice’.

Breakfast Thieves, and a collection of the neighbourhood’s hottest restaurants are located at A Place Where (APW), a hip complex of restaurants and shops converted from underused spaces of a still-functional printing factory.

You’ll see printing presses and other paraphernalia scattered around the compound. After brunch, head to Pulp for a coffee – the cafe is also the perfect setting for work on-the-go or reading a good book.

For afternoon tea and dessert, Plump is a lovely cafe serving decadent cakes, tucked away in a row of shop lots on Jln Bangkung and away from Bangsar’s usual hustle and bustle. It’s a popular spot that can get crowded on weekends, but offerings like the moist Ugly Cake packed with salted chocolate and pecans, or pistachio cake topped with fresh berries, make it worth the wait. There’s no shop sign – find the pinkish stairwell next to Opus Bistro and head one floor up.

Those who like their coffee (and opened-face sandwiches) with a bit of fresh air will enjoy the airy outdoor seating area at Kopenhagen Coffee Kapas, a Nordic-style cafe located within the compound of an upscale condominium. And if you’re looking for coffee and tea with a twist, Hani Eatery opposite the Bangsar Village I shopping centre has a creative list of drink concoctions, plus an array of coffee beans to choose your brew from.

TOP SIGHT

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park

At 70 hectares, Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park, also known as Lake Gardens (another remnant of British colonial-era rule), is the largest park in the city. Beyond its impressive size, the park encompasses beautifully landscaped gardens, and attractions such as a bird park and butterfly park, all while serving as habitat to hundreds of species of flora and fauna.

Air Elegant/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for discounted tickets to KL Bird Park.

DON’T MISS

Perdana Botanical Garden

KL Bird Park

KL Butterfly Park

Sunken Garden

Bamboo Playhouse

National Monument

Perdana Botanical Garden

At the centre of the heritage park is the sprawling grounds of Perdana Botanical Garden, a calm, green oasis in the bustling city. First developed in the 1880s by the British, it was called Lake Gardens – a name some locals still use today. Usually quiet and offering plenty of space, the park is a tropical refuge from KL’s concrete jungle where visitors can spot Malaysia’s diverse species of flora and fauna. Come early in the morning for some fresh air before temperatures begin to soar and take your time wending your way around the lake and taking in the city views. Be sure to stop by the beautiful Sunken Garden, a round pavilion centred around a star-shaped fountain. Weekends are usually when you’ll see locals jogging around the lake or picnicking on the park’s well-manicured lawns. Meanwhile, little adventurers will love scaling up and down one of the park’s few large playgrounds, like the treehouse-like Bamboo Playhouse, which is a cool bit of architecture in itself.

Black-naped oriole | Alizada Studios/shutterstock ©

Kuala Lumpur Bird Park

Walk among preening peacocks and watch tropical birds swoop around their natural habitat at this large free-flight bird park within the grounds of the heritage park. As some of the birds are free to roam, you might find yourself right in front of ibises and other large birds almost immediately upon entering, making for a unique experience and cool photo opportunities. Allow up to two hours if you’re keen to see all the birds (and some monkeys), as inhabiting the park’s four zones there are some 200 species of colourful avians. These include parrots, flamingos, eagles and the rhinoceros hornbills native to Borneo – though the latter two live in cages.

Kuala Lumpur Butterfly Park

While not as large as the neighbouring bird park, this enclosed garden area offers a rare opportunity to get up close and personal with Malaysia’s many species of eye-catching butterflies, from elegant birdwings to dainty Jezebels. The number of butterflies you might spot can vary, though insect enthusiasts will still find the park worthwhile, as also on display are shining beetles and creepy crawlies of impressive size, plus lots of weird and wonderful specimens of local insects.

National Monument

Sitting atop a stately plaza surrounded by fountains, the National Monument, also known as Tugu Negara, overlooks KL’s skyline. The 1966 bronze sculpture by American sculptor Felix de Weldon features fallen and wounded soldiers, some wielding weapons, and one holding the Malaysian flag. The monument commemorates those who lost their lives during Malaysia’s struggle for freedom during the WWII Japanese occupation and Malayan Emergency 1948–60. It was severely damaged in 1975 in a suspected bombing by communists and restored in 1977.

THE CARCOSA

Tucked in the park’s fringes, Carcosa Seri Negara is a once-stately colonial-era house commissioned as a residence for Sir Frank Swettenham, Malaya’s first Resident-General, from the 1890s. It has fallen into disrepair and is off-limits to visitors, though you can see its facade on the film Crazy Rich Asians, portrayed on-screen as the Young mansion.

TOP TIPS

• It’s best to go in the morning, when it’s still relatively cool. Attractions like the bird park open at 9am.

• Bring insect repellent to ward off ruthless tropical mosquitoes.

• Most of the park and its attractions are wheelchair-accessible with well-paved paths, though assistance may be required.

• Make your way to other attractions on foot. The National Museum is accessible via a tunnel, and the Islamic Arts Museum is walking distance from the bird park.

• If taking a Grab, set your drop-off point to the bird park or any of the nearby museums for easiest access.

CULINARY EXPLORATION

Local chef Joel Foong shares his tips to discovering the best restaurants in the area. @joelfoong

Cafes and restaurants that look good on Instagram are just that – they’re great for photographs, but don’t always expect good food. Some restaurants may look old or rough around the edges, but don’t be afraid to give them a try if you’re looking for tasty food and an authentic experience. Sometimes the age is testament to quality of the food. Many great restaurants in town aren’t immediately visible from the street or may have no obvious signage. Try venturing upstairs (in safe areas, like Bangsar) and you might find some nice surprises.

Lepak at the Mamak

The chill nightlife

It’s past 10pm and you’re not quite ready to retire to your room. Perhaps it’s supper you’re after, or a drink, or someplace to spend the last hours of the day. In other words, you’re looking to lepak – a Malay word that means to loiter aimlessly – and by local definition, to relax and hang out with friends after hours.

Replace the thumping music and cocktails of bars and clubs with a fresh mug of teh tarik (pulled tea), friendly chatter and the occasional rousing football match, and you have all the elements needed for a great lepak session. Just head to the mamak stall (or mamak, for short) and you’ll find all that and more. On weekend nights, locals from all walks of life flock to these brightly illuminated, sometimes 24-hour eateries – like Nasi Kandar Pelita. On the menu – typically a single, hulking board filled with text mounted somewhere in the restaurant – are roti canai (flatbread), mee goreng (fried noodles), Milo and seemingly 50 other things.

To lepak at the mamak is to sit down with your group of friends for casual catch-ups or share a hookah out in the cool night air – and when it’s football season, watch the match go in full swing. Here’s the perfect spot for night owls who don’t fancy loud music and don’t need alcohol to have a good time. The winning combination of cheap food, laid-back atmosphere and an open-air setting makes it a good post-drink hangout too.

Hookah, more often referred to here as shisha, is another quintessential lepak activity, and a popular youth pastime for late evenings. Some mamak stalls offer it, but if you’re looking for a fancier setting, shisha lounges can often be found open past midnight, with some such as Bilique Bangsar doubling as bars, too.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: BANGSAR BARS

Coley One of Asia’s best bars, in a quiet section of Bangsar. Come here for amazing, inventive cocktails and a relaxed atmosphere.

Juliet Wine Bar Great wine, scrumptious food and a cosy setting. Look for the discreet door off to the side of the wine-red building.

JUS Resto Bar Where the food is top-notch and the vibes casual. Perfect for an afternoon date with a few cocktails and plates to share.

Unwined A friendly atmosphere perfect for sharing a bottle of wine with friends – pick one from the extensive selection of natural wines.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia

2  Lake Gardens – Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park

SIGHTS

3  KL Bird Park

4  KL Butterfly Park

5  National Monument

6  National Mosque

7  National Museum

8  Perdana Botanical Garden

SLEEPING

9  Carcosa Seri Negara

10  Majestic Hotel

Urban Living in the Suburbs

Laid-back fun in Mont Kiara and Sri Hartamas

Just outside the bustling centre of KL are the city’s cosmopolitan neighbourhoods, Mont Kiara and Sri Hartamas. Known for high-rise luxury condominiums, malls and trendy cafes, this stomping ground for expats and well-heeled locals is where you’ll see a more chic, laid-back side of KL for when you want fresh air away from the main hubbub.

Visit during the day and you’ll find plenty of cafes for a fancy cup of coffee and a delightful pastry. Locals will also point you towards the two neighbourhoods if you’re looking for some of the city’s best Japanese and Korean restaurants. Home to a portion of KL’s sizeable Korean and Japanese community, the numerous barbecue and ramen shops are as authentic as they come. Down beer and soju while you enjoy samgyeopsal (Korean barbecued pork) hot off the grill, or wash sticks of yakitori (Japanese chicken skewers) down with ice-cold highballs and see how multifaceted and vibrant KL can be.

The fun continues after dinner, with many bars and bistros to choose from with a casual, friendly vibe and good cocktails. Hot spots include Kokomo, a smallish bar that’s shaking up inventive cocktails incorporating unique local flavours, like the jackfruit-infused Jack O’Fashioned (reserve in advance). And if you like a good pint, strong cocktails and a cool breeze, go to Souled Out for happy-hour deals and fruit-infused mojitos on the terrace.

For something sweet, you’ll find several dessert options – such as the Ice Cream Bar, which has an array of boozy ice creams that don’t hold back on the booze.

If you’re only going to check out one place, go to Publika. Though it’s a shopping mall at its core, the complex is distinctly more artsy and less commercial compared with its KL counterparts. In adjacent complexes connected to the main mall building are izakaya (Japanese-style bars), mamak stalls, and other restaurants and bistros of all ranges, plus bars and live-music venues like the Bee and Simply Jazz.

Meanwhile, inside the mall is community and event space Me.Reka, offering workshops, co-working facilities, design studios and more to local creatives. See @mereka.community on Instagram for latest events and workshops.

MAMAK STAPLES

Roti Tisu

A sweet sheet of roti stretched ultra-thin (like tissue) and fashioned into an almost comically large cone. A decadent late-night dessert, great for sharing.

Milo Dinosaur

Milo on steroids. A chocolate-malt drink served ice-cold, topped with undissolved Milo powder, just in case there wasn’t enough Milo.

Roti Bom

Sweet flatbread flavoured with margarine, sugar and condensed milk. Thick, rich and as its name suggests – the bomb.

Maggi Goreng

Like mee goreng, but with Maggi instant noodles. Packed with sodium and MSG, but sure to hit the spot on a late night.

Pasembur

A mishmash of fried prawn fritters, shredded cucumber and jicama, and other delicious, textured ingredients drenched in a slightly spicy peanut sauce.

SIGHTS

1  Istana Negara

2  Me.Reka Makerspace

See 3  Urban Retreat Onsen Spa

3  Uroot

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

4  Bee

See 4  Simply Jazz

EATING

See 3  Crust

See 9  Fin

5  HoGoon Camp

6  Ice Cream Bar

See 3  Kanbe Ramen

7  Orito

8  Ra-Ft Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

9  Big Boss

10  Kokomo

11  Kopenhagen Coffee Mont Kiara

12  Shisha Lounge

13  Souled Out

SHOPPING

14  Publika

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: LATE-NIGHT LEPAK SPOTS

Original Penang Kayu Nasi Kandar $ Popular nasi kandar (rice with assorted curries and side dishes) chain. Its Bangsar branch is open 24 hours.

Uncle Rahmat $ Laid-back and casual mamak stall with tables out on the street at night, great for shisha. Opposite Bangsar Village I shopping mall.

Shisha Lounge $$ Restaurant and shisha lounge with indoor and outdoor seating. Food is Middle Eastern fare, with naan and kebabs.

Big Boss $$ Sink into a cushy couch or smoke shisha out on the terrace at this chic restaurant in Publika, with a decent selection on the menu.

ROADSIDE SHRINES

Walk or drive around Kuala Lumpur and chances are you’ve seen a little red shrine often housing a single idol of a male deity. This is Na Tuk Gong, or Datuk Gong – the result of an interesting fusion of religious beliefs of Chinese immigrants to Malaysia in the 19th century, and that of the local Malays. The Chinese immigrants worshipped Tu Di Gong, a deity who looks over residents of a particular locale, while the Malays venerated a Datuk Keramat, who is often an important leader in the community. It is believed that Chinese immigrants looking for a deity similar to Tu Di Gong in their new home adapted the Datuk Keramat figure to their worship, thus creating Datuk Gong.

Domes, Incense & Deities

Kuala Lumpur’s mosques and temples

Hop from a grand Chinese Buddhist temple bedecked with lanterns to a Hindu temple with colourful sculptures of deities stacked high towards the sky, then marvel at the intricate patterns and arched ceilings of mosques – Kuala Lumpur’s religious sites are as varied and interesting as the city’s multicultural population. Spend a few hours in this neighbourhood and you’ll see some of Kuala Lumpur’s major sites of worship for three of the country’s main religions: Islam, Buddhism and Hinduism.

Begin your trip in the morning at Masjid Negara, or the National Mosque – the site of worship for followers of Malaysia’s main religion, Islam. Located near the Perdana Botanical Garden, the mosque, which was completed after Independence in 1965, has a unique umbrella-shaped roof done up in blue and green tiles in place of the dome typical of mosques – a feature that allows the structure to accommodate up to 15,000 worshippers. Meanwhile, the 73m-high minaret resembles a closed umbrella. Non-Muslim visitors are allowed inside this important place of worship outside of prayer hours. Dress appropriately with long, covered clothing, though robes will be provided to those who might require them.

Southwards in Brickfields – KL’s little India – is one of the most important sites of worship for local Hindus: Sri Kandaswamy Temple. Built by the Ceylon Tamil community in 1902, the temple is modelled after the Nallur Kanthaswamy Temple in Sri Lanka. Now over a century old, the temple is perhaps grander and more colourful than before – adorning its facade, walls and ceilings are vibrant paintings and sculptures of Hindu deities that command attention. The temple also remains a hub for important Hindu festivals and celebrations. Surasamharam, a ritual performance re-creating battles between the deity Muruga and benevolent demons (asuras) is held here, usually between late October and early November.

Later in the afternoon, head further south to Thean Hou Temple, a grand Buddhist temple decked out in hundreds of lanterns. See the dragon-topped temple roofs and other Buddhist sculptures – including that of the main deity enshrined here, the Goddess Thean Hou. Thean Hou Temple serves as the venue for Chinese and Buddhist religious celebrations such as the Spring Festival and Wesak Day but is also an important venue for the local Chinese diaspora, many of whom come here to get legally married.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: BEST IN BRICKFIELDS & BANGSAR

Sri Nirwana Maju $ Make a stop here for its delicious banana-leaf rice, soaked in fragrant curries alongside assorted sides.

De.Wan 1958 $$$ The best of Malay cuisine, brought to you by local celebrity Chef Wan. Try the appetiser platter and get mains to share.

Farm Foodcraft $$ Farm-themed restaurant bringing the freshest menu, with seasonal ingredients sourced from its own urban farm.

Kaiju $$ Hip restaurant serving a taste-bud-tickling fusion of Thai and Japanese cuisine – think tom yum ramen, or unagi rice-paper spring rolls.

MUSEUM INSIDER

Gain further insight into the history of Malaysia by joining a guided tour through the National Museum. These one-hour volunteer-led tours are available in English at 10am every Monday to Saturday, and multiple languages on select days of the week (see muziumnegara.gov.my for details). Tours begin at the museum lobby and no prior reservations are required. At the Islamic Arts Museum, guided tours are available only to groups upon request, though visitors can still join in on the events, educational activities and workshops that are hosted regularly. If you snag a spot in one of their workshops, you’ll get to experience Islamic art firsthand – these range from papermaking, to calligraphy and bakhoor (incense), with kid-friendly workshops available, too. Registration is required for workshops and fees may apply.

Perdana Botanical Garden | Smarta/shutterstock ©

Gilded Swords & Islamic Treasures

Exploring Kuala Lumpur’s best museums

Within walking distance of the Perdana Botanical Garden are two excellent museums – the iconic slope-roofed National Museum and the elegant Islamic Arts Museum, whose architecture is a work of art in itself. There’s a lot to take in at either institution – planning to see both on the same day may require you to begin your day early in order to make the most of your visit.

For a comprehensive look into Malaysia’s rich history, take your time wandering the halls of the main building at the National Museum. Here, the entire history of the country is laid out in chronological order, from prehistory and progressing through the Malay kingdoms, the colonial era and to Malaysia today. See everything from primitive prehistoric tools to gilded, asymmetrical keris daggers and intricate ceremonial dresses, then head outside to the museum’s compound for the outdoor exhibits. Highlights include old steam locomotives that were in use from the 1920s during the colonial era, and Istana Satu – a building on stilts first erected by the then-Sultan of the state of Terengganu in 1884.

Also within the grounds of the National Museum is the Orang Asli Crafts Museum, showcasing the tools, weapons and traditional crafts of Malaysia’s indigenous peoples (Orang Asli). While modest in size, the museum allows visitors a rare peek into the lives and culture of Malaysia’s indigenous groups and makes for a quick but worthwhile extension to your visit. Don’t miss the wonderful wooden sculptures and carved Mah Meri masks on display.

Meanwhile, the Islamic Arts Museum – the largest of its kind in the region – is filled with beautiful treasures and artefacts from the Islamic world, from Southeast Asia to West Africa. Housed within the museum’s 12 galleries are ceramics, jewellery, manuscripts and more, plus scale models of Islamic buildings from across the globe. Also gaze up at the beautiful, intricate domes that make up part of the building’s interior architecture, and step into the Damascus Room, a faithful re-creation of a 19th-century residential reception chamber.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: HIP MONT KIARA CAFES

Orito The the main draw is the display case, filled with flaky Danish pastries and doughnuts that ooze with cream.

Kopenhagen Coffee Mont Kiara Pretend you’re not in Southeast Asia and take a fika break at this minimalist, Nordic-inspired cafe.

Jaslyn Cakes Sit on the terrace and watch the world go by with a cold cup of coffee and the most decadent desserts – like the sticky-date pudding.

Ra-Ft Cafe Have eggs Benedict, bagels and coffee at this classic, unpretentious cafe, where any time is breakfast time.

BEST LOCAL SHOPS

Whimsigirl

Neutral tones and soft fabrics make this homegrown brand a comfy girl’s dream. Check out its adorable baju kurung (traditional Malay two-piece dress), too.

Pakka Publishing

An independent publishing house focused on Malaysian writing in English, plus local topics including history, customs and more.

Nala Designs

Cute, traditional-inspired patterns and splashes of colour define this brand’s distinct style. Everything from qipao to tote bags in fun fabrics.

Lilin+Co

Soy wax candles hand-poured in the capital. Affordable, and they come in all kinds of fun, fragrant combinations.

Pestle & Mortar

KL’s homegrown streetwear brand started online, but now has a brick and mortar store in Bangsar.

Get Scrubbed & Pampered

The city’s best spa treatments

One of the best things to do in KL is to get thoroughly pampered. Unknot tense shoulder muscles with a deep-tissue Thai massage, or get your tired feet rubbed with a good reflexology session – just drop into the many spas in the city and you’ll be soothed and relaxed in no time.

For the most memorable experience, go to Hammam Spa. Inspired by Turkish bathhouses, guests get treated in beautiful surroundings, with warm lighting, gushing fountains and vibrant mosaic tiles that evoke Morocco. Lay on a heated slab and have all your worries (and old skin) scrubbed away with the hammam and gommage (scrub) treatment, or pick from a variety of spa packages.

Uroot (a play on urut, the Malay word for massage) is a small, but excellent spa offering full-body or just upper-body and foot massages. Try the signature Urutan Malaysia, which combines various massage techniques from across the country’s diverse cultural and ethnic backgrounds. Meanwhile, Urban Retreat Onsen Spa brings a slice of Japan to KL with its hot-spring baths.

Other well-known spa chains such as Thai Odyssey or Bali Ayu are also safe bets for some quick relaxation. Walk-ins are sometimes welcome but call in advance to book a slot for a hassle-free experience.

DRINKING IN KUALA LUMPUR: BANGSAR CAFES

Starbucks Bangsar Village II This outlet is a signing store – customers sign or write their orders out to the deaf or hard-of-hearing partners.

Marmalade Get healthy bowls, brunch and cake at this kid-friendly cafe in Bangsar Village I, fitted with a play area for the little ones.

Lisette’s Cafe & Bakery Pck from a mouthwatering array of cakes and pastries or come hungry and try the vegetarian buffet every Tuesday.

Three Guys Cafe Coffee shop for book lovers. Roomy surroundings and large tables make the perfect reading setting. Just pick a book.

MASSAGE BASICS

A cheat sheet to help you find what you’re looking for in a massage.

Thai massage

Performed fully clothed, with hard pressure applied to the body and assisted stretching afterwards. An intense process that effectively unknots muscles.

Balinese massage

Uses essential oils and gentle, kneading movements to promote blood circulation and relaxation. A great option for when you just want to unwind.

Malaysian massage

Involves a mixed bag of techniques, including kneading, stretching and head massages with essential oils for a well-rounded session of relaxation.

Reflexology massage

Focuses on the many pressure points in the foot and can be a quick pick-me-up, but beware – it can also get quite painful.

Dress Well, Eat Well

Live the Bangsar lifestyle

One of KL’s more upmarket areas, Bangsar is where you’ll find another major crop of shopping malls, each carrying their share of luxury and everyday fashions, with a sprinkle of local designer brands mixed in. Shoppers looking to check out homegrown brands and designs should start at Bangsar Village II, located right at the heart of the bustling Jln Telawi complex of shop lots. You can try on a qipao (Chinese traditional dress) of batik cloth, look at antique chests and knick-knacks, or pick up sustainable items at select store, Unplug. Connected via a link bridge is Bangsar Village I, where you’ll find food options and everyday shops.

Closest to the Bangsar MRT is Bangsar Shopping Centre, which has a good number of local fashions and home furnishings, though the main draw is perhaps its selection of great restaurants such as Malay-Indo restaurant Dancing Fish, or Cantonese restaurant the Ming Room. There are a number of lively bars here in the evening, too, like WIP and Luca.

Save an entire day for Mid Valley Megamall and the Gardens Mall, if you’re into hardcore shopping. Both are right next to each other, with Mid Valley Megamall having a slew of midrange shops (plus an exhibition centre and cinema), while the Gardens is reserved for more high-end international brands and Japanese department store, Isetan. Dining options are aplenty, with an entire underground complex hosting over a hundred restaurants and kiosks between the two malls, and that’s not counting the cafes and other restaurants upstairs.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: MONT KIARA BEST PICKS

Crust $$ Wood-fired pizzas that are crisp on the outside, with just the right amount of fluff and chew on the inside. Fitted with a kid’s play area – perfect for family dinners.

HoGoon Camp $$ Eat good food (and exceptional pancakes) and watch the sun set over KL from the outdoor seating of this casual Korean restaurant.

Kanbe Ramen $ The thickest tsukemen (Japanese dipping noodles) in KL, and possibly in existence. Hearty, porky and fragrant. Expect long lines.

Fin $ Laid-back cafe in Publika serving good coffee and healthy, delicious salads and poké bowls that are perfect lunch pick-me-ups.

Beyond the City Centre

REMNANTS OF INDUSTRY

Hop in a car and beyond the inner-city circle, and the skyscrapers begin to fall away. In place of large concrete buildings are humble everyday dwellings, dated shophouses, and up-and-coming suburban neighbourhoods that represent an even more down-to-earth version of KL, all with histories of their own. Some areas, like Kepong, trace their origins back to Chinese immigrant settlements around the country’s abundant tin mines in the 19th century. Besides great local Chinese cooking, you’ll find a happening township where suburban KLites flock for weekend rest and recreation, pets in tow. Others, like Sentul, served as industrial hubs in the colonial era. Here, the shells of old brick warehouses and metal shacks remain, but new developments breathe life into the neighbourhood, transforming the abandoned structures into a hub for performing arts, food and fresh experiences.

SIGHTS

1  Desa Park City

2  Sentul Depot

EATING

3  Calle Taco

4  Ipoh Road Yong Tow Foo

See 11  Jibby by the Park

5  Kedai Kopi Mee Bon

6  Lieong Kee Bae Good Teh

See 11  Onde Onde

7  Sze Ngan Chye Restaurant

8  TasteBud

See 3  Tiffin at the Yard

ENTERTAINMENT

9  Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre

SHOPPING

10  Plaza Arkadia

11  The Waterfront

Desa Park City | Fadzrul Nazief/shutterstock ©

TOP TIP

A number of areas in Kuala Lumpur aren’t yet well-connected via public transport – including the neighbourhoods here. Some areas may be traffic-heavy and unsafe to walk, so the best way to get around is to hire a Grab. Though things may get a little congested, weekends are when these neighbourhoods are liveliest.

Dog Spotting at Desa Park City

Parks, pooches and maybe pints

Furry pals of all shapes and sizes come out to play at Kuala Lumpur’s most pet-friendly neighbourhood, Desa Park City. While largely an upscale residential area, at the centre of it all is the park and shop complex, the Waterfront, where dog owners can be seen circling the human-made lake with their pooches on a leash at any given time, but especially on weekends. Also here are bars, restaurants and cafes with outdoor, pet-friendly seating overlooking the park, which is especially nice in the evenings when temperatures start to cool. While here, check out the bazaars that happen every so often. Items on sale often feature outfits for pets and dog toys. The best time to visit is during the day and in the evening on weekdays when it’s less crowded, and seats at cafes and restaurants are easy to snag.

At night, head to Plaza Arkadia, a lively complex with ample drinking and dining options located in the same neighbourhood. Sichuan cuisine and spicy, numbing hotpot is a staple here, along with casual bars.

Malaysia’s Pewter Factory

Discover pewter smithing

Riding on Malaysia’s booming tin industry in the 19th century is the production of pewter, a malleable alloy that was used to create everything from household items to currency. Founded in 1885, what first began as a humble shophouse going by the name of Malayan Pewter Works eventually became Royal Selangor, now the world’s largest pewter manufacturer. The Royal Selangor Visitor Centre, the brand factory and headquarters, is located in the fringes of the city centre where it proudly keeps the history and practice of pewter smithing alive.

The complex is a factory, museum, workshop and gift shop rolled into one; where old photographs, historical pewter-related artefacts and even the product assembly line are laid out for all to see. To get the most out of your visit, join the free guided tour (booking required), which moves from the small museum to a live artisan demonstration before ending (predictably) at the gift shop. You’ll get a crash course on the founding and history of the company, the nitty-gritty of pewter, and see products being made in real-time in an experience suitable for all, including family with children. Don’t miss the fascinating animal-shaped pewter pieces that were once used as currency between the 15th and 18th century, and the century-old teapot crafted by Royal Selangor’s original founder, Yong Koon. All sections of the building are equipped with wheelchair-friendly ramps, and free shuttle buses to the visitor centre from major hotels in the city are available.

If you prefer a souvenir with a more personal touch over picking something up from the gift shop, try your hand at one of the workshops here. Older children will enjoy the School of Hard Knocks, a quick workshop that will have you hammer a pewter dish into shape with a mallet and other traditional tools. Across the hall, the Foundry lets you create your own designs out of shining, molten pewter, though the workshop is only open to teens 15 and up.

TIN IN MALAYA

Pewter is made up of about 92% to 97% tin – a metal that shaped much of Malaysia’s history and economic development over the 19th and 20th centuries. The mining of tin was initially an industry largely undertaken by Chinese immigrants and led to the immigration of many Chinese labourers to Peninsular Malaysia. By the early 1900s, the country’s output of tin accounted for more than half of global production. However, the introduction of new mining technologies eventually saw a portion of the industry shift to the control of the British. Though the industry has experienced dips and increases over the decades, tin now makes up less than 1% of the country’s export earnings.

Dinner & Drama

Fun at Sentul Depot

The Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre (KLPAC) is a 120-year-old brick and wooden-shuttered former railway warehouse, about 9km from the city centre, in a comfortable nook surrounded by quiet greenery. Since its establishment in 2005, KLPAC has been an important space for Malaysian performing arts, giving local troupes and productions a platform to express themselves and cultivating young talent through performing-arts programs. Performances here are diverse – ranging from classical orchestras to traditional Malay dance, Chinese-language plays and stand-up comedy (see what’s on at klpac.org).

Even if no shows are on, there’s still a reason to make the trip down to the area. The building that KLPAC occupies is just one of several in a complex of old railway warehouses first built by the Federated Malay States Railway in 1905 and was known at the time as the Central Railway Workshops. It was later renamed ‘Sentul Depot’ and subsequently abandoned in the 2000s, falling into a state of disrepair before being picked up by a private development firm and restored. Most of the building now serves as event spaces for rent, but you can see a portion of the complex when you visit Tiffin at the Yard. A hip food court with a rotating selection of vendors selling everything from tacos to nasi lemak, Tiffin brings fresh, new culinary experiences in a unique setting that local youths just can’t seem to get enough of. Also held regularly here are bazaars, workshops and thrift markets – latest updates can be found at @tiffineats on Instagram.

EATING IN KUALA LUMPUR: RESTAURANTS IN SENTUL & AROUND

Calle Taco $$ Tacos like you’ve never had before, served at Tiffin at the Yard. Satay chicken, duck pong teh and other local-inspired flavours.

TasteBud $ No-frills, casual Indian restaurant near Sentul station serving delicious curries, naan and biryani, plus vegetarian options.

Ipoh Road Yong Tow Foo $ Longstanding shop famous for its yong tau foo – vegetables and tofu stuffed with fish and meat paste – a must-try.

Kedai Kopi Mee Bon $ Try freshly steamed dim sum and bao, made in-house at this classic kopitiam on Ipoh Rd. Try the big bao and loh mai kai.

HISTORY OF SENTUL DEPOT

In its 1900s heyday, Sentul Depot was an important engineering workshop for the Federated Malay States Railway. Here, over 5000 employees serviced locomotives that connected nearly every state in Peninsular Malaysia, and at its height, it even built train parts for India’s railway system. As the tail end of WWII approached, Allied Forces bombed the workshop and though attempts to revive the area were made, the complex never returned to its former glory. When Malaysia gained independence from the British, the Federated Malay States Railway became Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTMB), which remains in operation today, and the former workshops became a depot for decommissioned locomotives before they eventually fell out of use.

EATING IN KEPONG: OUR PICKS

Jibby by the Park $$ Stylish restaurant overlooking the park at Desa Park City. Its menu has everything from burgers and pizzas to local favourites.

Lieong Kee Bae Good Teh $ The fragrant bak kut teh served with ample broth is a local breakfast favourite. Get the stew with pork ribs and tendons.

Onde Onde $ Drop in after lunch for some local and Nyonya staple desserts like shaved ice with cendol, and assorted kueh (traditional cakes and sweets).

Sze Ngan Chye Restaurant $ Duck served here is exactly the same as that sold from the original Sze Ngan Chye pushcart in Petaling St, but here you get to dine in.

Sentul Depot | Andrew Jin Shing Chan/shutterstock ©

Beyond Kuala Lumpur

Meet the neighbours: hit the road to explore Selangor’s stunning sights and Negeri Sembilan’s Minangkabau architecture.

Selangor and Negeri Sembilan, an easy reach from KL, make a fantastic sequel to your capital-city getaway. With cultural sights and scenic attractions awaiting in Selangor, begin with lively Little India in Klang and the gold-painted Lord Muruga statue at Batu Caves. The stunning domes of Masjid Salahuddin in Shah Alam and Putra Mosque in Putrajaya are worth seeing, and don’t forget the vast paddy fields of Sekinchan. Get an adrenaline rush whitewater rafting in Kuala Kubu Bharu or cross the forest skywalk at the Forest Research Institute Malaysia. Traffic jams are the reality of city life in Malaysia, but everything mellows in Negeri Sembilan. With Minangkabau architecture to admire and hiking trails to explore, it’s worth spending a day or two here.

GETTING AROUND

Kuala Lumpur is a good jumping-off point to Selangor. If you’re visiting the major towns and neighbourhoods, it’s possible to opt out of driving and use the KTM Komuter, LRT trains and Rapid KL buses. The ride-sharing service is also reliable. If you’re heading to Negeri Sembilan, take the intercity bus from Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) and stop in Seremban. From there, explore Seremban by using the ride-sharing service or renting a vehicle to explore out-of-town attractions like Sri Menanti.

Petaling Jaya & Shah AlamTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 25 MINS

Hit the theme parks

Petaling Jaya, also known as PJ, is home to some of Malaysia’s most popular theme parks. Sunway Lagoon is a water park, amusement park and wildlife park rolled into one. Besides braving the roller-coaster and a 360-degree rotating pirate ship, screams of excitement can be heard from its most popular attraction, Vuvuzela, the world’s largest vortex ride. If you prefer indoor theme parks, Escape Petaling Jaya provides much-needed shade from the rain and humidity. Most of its attractions are Malaysian-themed, and there’s nothing quite like the experience of climbing up a faux coconut tree or a heritage-themed tower in a shopping mall. Jump Street Asia is more of a kid-friendly indoor trampoline park. Situated in a converted warehouse, there’s a large bouncy castle, a dodgeball court for the big kids and a striped Velcro section that makes you stick like a fly on the wall.

Window shopping at the mall

Ask a local and they’ll say shopping malls in Petaling Jaya are great for two reasons: seasonal sales and air-con. So it’s no surprise that there are over 20 malls in PJ to choose from. Escape the humidity at Sunway Pyramid, fronted by a giant lion statue and styled after the Egyptian Revival. The mall’s main highlight is Sunway Pyramid Ice, an indoor ice-skating rink that operates year-round. Paradigm Mall has six levels of stores and restaurants, providing a one-stop shopping experience for urban families. It also doubles as a transport hub to KL International Airport. Tropicana Gardens Mall is conveniently connected to Surian MRT station and the younger crowd flocks to the trendy bookstore and coffee shops on weekends. In contrast to the aforementioned malls, 1 Utama is undeniably larger. It’s packed with homegrown and international brands, and locating a store or restaurant is so tricky that some shoppers resort to Google Maps or the mall’s app to find their way.

NAMED AFTER A KING

A city in Selangor, Shah Alam was formerly named Sungai Renggam, and is a thriving agricultural area known for rubber and oil-palm plantations. The agricultural industry generated so much wealth that it contributed to the development of Sungai Renggam township in 1963. This subsequently elevated Sungai Renggam as the first planned city in Malaysia after the country’s Independence in 1957. Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah renamed the city Shah Alam, after his late father Sultan Hisamuddin Alam Shah. Sultan Salahuddin was the Sultan of Selangor at that time and the same person who commissioned the construction of Malaysia’s largest mosque, the Blue Mosque. After Kuala Lumpur received Federal Territory status in 1978, Shah Alam became the state capital of Selangor.

Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah | structuresxx/shutterstock ©

Malaysia’s Blue Mosque

If you’re travelling from KL, drive along the Federal Hwy and through the Kota Darul Ehsan ceremonial arch to reach the famous Blue Mosque in Shah Alam. Designed with Middle Eastern and traditional Malay elements, Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah is the country’s largest mosque and Southeast Asia’s second largest after Istiqlal Mosque in Jakarta – it can fit up to 24,000 worshippers. Surrounded by four 142m-tall minarets and a massive blue and white dome, the mosque was named after the late Sultan of Selangor who commissioned its construction from 1983 to 1987. The main prayer hall, decorated with four crystal chandeliers and an antique clock gifted by the Sultan himself, is reserved for male worshippers, while female worshippers pray at the upper gallery. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to view the main prayer hall from the outside but are not allowed to enter. Visitors must be modestly dressed and women must wear a headscarf.

Explore the night markets

With bright lights and bustling atmosphere, the main streets of Shah Alam come alive with the pasar malam (night market). Just like hawker centres, venturing into the night market is a good way to sample every street food you can find. Every Saturday evening, Pasar Malam Seksyen 19 Shah Alam (Seksyen 19 Shah Alam Night Market) occupies Jln Lading 19/E. With food vendors stirring large woks and heating their grills, it’s exciting to watch them in action. Ayam percik (marinated chicken on skewers), curry noodles and apam balik (turnover pancake filled with sweet corn and peanuts) are some of the things you can find, but go for night-market favourites: satay and roti John. Pasar Malam Setia Alam (Setia Alam Night Market) also opens Saturday evenings and it’s one of Malaysia’s longest night markets, a 2.4km stretch along Jln Setia Prima A. It’s heavily dotted with Malay and Chinese food stalls, and you can get similar night-market favourites on top of nasi kerabu (blue-coloured rice served with fried fish or chicken, herbs, vegetables, salted egg and crackers), murtabak (roti filled with mutton, chicken or vegetables) and char kway teow (broad noodles, clams and eggs fried in chilli and black-bean sauce). The average night-market food price is from RM1 (skewers) to RM10 (rice or noodle dishes).

A FAMOUS HERBAL SOUP

A local favourite in Klang, bak kut teh is a Chinese pork-rib dish simmered in fragrant herbal broth. Meaning ‘meat-bone tea’ in Hokkien, the origin of the dish can be traced back to Fujian, China. It was brought over by the early Chinese migrants who popularised the dish in Port Klang. Bak kut teh is typically served in a claypot or small bowl. The pork ribs are simmered for hours in a broth made of aromatic herbs and spices like star anise, garlic, cinnamon and white pepper, resulting in flavourful and tender meat that falls off the bone. Upon request, you can add tofu puffs, mushrooms, or lettuce, too. Best enjoyed for breakfast or lunch.

KlangTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 35 MINS

A heritage guided walk

It’s fun to explore Klang on your own, but you can learn so much from the Royal Klang Heritage Walk, a free guided walk by the Klang Municipal Council and Tourism Selangor. Every Saturday, a local guide meets the curious in front of Galeri Diraja Sultan Abdul Aziz, a four-minute walk from Klang KTM station. In 2½ hours, the guide takes you on a 3km loop around the main Klang area covering 11 attractions including Royal Klang Club, Church of Our Lady of Lourdes, Masjid India Muslim Tengku Kelana (Tengku Kelana Indian Muslim Mosque) and Sri Nagara Thandayuthapani Temple. The tour begins at 9.15am and ends at 12.30pm (registration begins at 9am). Wear comfortable shoes or sandals.

Shopping in Klang’s Little India

Little India Klang, a six-minute walk from Klang KTM station, is a vibrant kaleidoscope of colours and flavours. Situated along Jln Tengku Kelana, lively Bollywood film tunes energise the streets and add life to stores selling flower garlands, glistening gold jewellery, aromatic spices as well as high-quality silks and saris. Your visit would be incomplete without enjoying delicious North Indian or South Indian cuisine including lip-smacking curries and fragrant biryani. Treat yourself to Indian sweets like gulab jamun, kaju apple, or motichoor ladu.

EATING IN KLANG: OUR PICKS

Weng Heong Bah Kut Teh Restaurant $ Richly flavoured and aromatic bak kut teh broth. Expect a long queue during lunch hours, but service is swift.

Teluk Pulai Bak Kut Teh $ Savour well-balanced bak kut teh flavours and tender meat slices. Visit the restaurant during off-peak hours to avoid the queue.

Chola Kitchen Restaurant $ A clean eatery with a bustling ambience. Enjoy a hearty meal of chicken or mutton biryani with masala tea.

India Gate Restaurant $ Come here for delicious food with good service. Go for North Indian special thali, garlic-cheese naan, or banana-leaf rice.

A DAY WITH THE NATIVES

Native Discovery (discovernative.org) is a Malaysian social enterprise that partners with the indigenous communities in Peninsular Malaysia to create sustainable community-led tourism. The idea came about in 2018 when founder Daniel Teoh met Faizul, a Temuan native, during a volunteer project. After receiving support from Faizul and his community, Native Discovery kicked off with its first indigenous tour to Kampung Serendah, a village settlement of the Temuan community. The tour includes a hike to Bukit Beruang (Beruang Hill), a refreshing dip in Sungai Serendah and a traditional Temuan meal. All tours are led by Orang Asli (the indigenous people) partners, and provide a rare opportunity for participants to forge meaningful connections with the first people of Peninsular Malaysia.

Port KlangTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 45 MINS

Meet the Mah Meri

Pulau Carey is the home of the Mah Meri people, a subgroup of the Senoi indigenous community in Peninsular Malaysia. Most of them live quietly along the coast of Sungai Pelek to Pulau Carey, and the Mah Meri Cultural Village is a living museum that unfolds the customs, traditions and artisanal handicrafts that the tribe is known for.

You can join a one-hour guided tour (RM25 per person) where a Mah Meri guide imparts stories and knowledge about the tribe. Begin at Rumah Moyang, a small hut where offerings are laid out and special prayers are performed for the spirits. Just around the corner, see replicas of the traditional treehouses before heading to the main gallery to see the tribal headdress, weapons and handicrafts. Known as the Masked Men of Malaysia, the Mah Meri are excellent mask crafters and have great wood-carving skills. So it’s no surprise to see their craftsmanship displayed around the cultural village.

The tour ends with a leaf origami weaving session and a chance to try out the traditional Mah Meri costumes made from nipah leaves and terap bark. The village is open for group visits (by appointment) on weekdays and regular walk-ins on weekends. Packages and rates are available at mmcv.org.my.

Coastal charm of Pulau Ketam

Experience serene coastal life in Pulau Ketam, a fishing village off the coast of Port Klang. From Pulau Ketam Ferry, opposite Port Klang KTM station, choose one of the main ferry operators. Each has varying ticket prices and durations: Alibaba Pulau Ketam Cruises (35 minutes), PKF Feri Pulau Ketam (35 minutes), or Superman Speed Boat (20 minutes). Most operators also stop at Sungai Lima village but you should get off at Pulau Ketam.

Pulau Ketam means ‘crab island’ in Malay, and you will spot tiny mud crabs along the shores. Seafood restaurants abound on the island. Most restaurants have similar menus, such as chilli crab, butter prawns and steamed fish, so you can’t go wrong with your choice. You can cycle around the island. Bicycle (RM5 per day) and electric-bike (RM20 per hour) rentals are available. There are no cars and motorbikes on the island, so cycle leisurely along the narrow road but be careful when passing through crowded areas. The island is surrounded by rainbow-hued houses on stilts, coffee shops and hidden street-art lanes, which are great spots for a holiday snapshot.

Pulau Ketam | Nicholas Toh/shutterstock ©

PutrajayaTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 40 MINS

The pink mosque of Putrajaya

There are only three pink mosques in the world, and the Putra Mosque is one of them. Completed in 1999, the mosque is designed with Arab-Islamic architectural elements and made beautiful with rose-tinted granite that gives off its iconic desert pink shade. The stunning 36m main dome is the first thing you see when you admire from afar. Look closely and you’ll spot eight smaller domes surrounding it. The five-tier minaret represents the Five Pillars of Islam and draws inspiration from the Sheikh Umar Suhrawardi Mosque in Baghdad. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to explore the mosque’s courtyard and peek into the main prayer hall (from a small corner) outside prayer times. This is a rare opportunity since non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the main prayer hall during prayer times. Before entering the mosque, make sure you’re modestly dressed (women need to wear a headscarf). Otherwise, you can borrow a long-sleeved hooded robe from the entrance for free. The mosque is next to Perdana Putra, the Malaysian Prime Minister’s office complex.

THE WORLD’S LARGEST ROUNDABOUT

Persiaran Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah, also known as the Putrajaya Roundabout, is the largest roundabout in the world. Spanning 3.4km in circumference, it was completed in 1999 and named after Malaysia’s 11th Head of State (who also commissioned the Blue Mosque in Shah Alam). It has 15 entry and exit points, and visitors can enter inside the roundabout to admire the architecture of Istana Melawati (the country’s second national palace), stroll around Taman Putra Perdana (a public park), or spend a few nights in Pulse Grande Hotel, which is interestingly dubbed as a ‘hotel in a park and a park in a hotel’. The roundabout is accessible from Taman Botani Putrajaya, Perdana Putra and Putra Mosque.

Unforgettable cruise around Putrajaya Lake

Cruise Tasik Putrajaya is one of the best ways to soak up the sights of Malaysia’s administrative capital. To circle around Putrajaya’s human-made lake, Tasik Putrajaya (Putrajaya Lake), choose between a small traditional boat called Perahu Dondang Sayang (fits six people) or the air-conditioned Sightseeing Day Cruise (ideal for large groups). Perahu Dondang Sayang covers a short route around the lake where you can spot Seri Perdana Bridge, Putra Mosque and Perdana Putra. You can view more attractions from the Sightseeing Day Cruise including Istana Darul Ehsan, Seri Wawasan Bridge and Masjid Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin.

PUTRAJAYA DRIVING TOUR

To explore Putrajaya’s stunning architectural landmarks, hit the road and drive across 1 Seri Saujana Bridge. Known as the city’s main bridge, it uses dual engineering techniques, arches and buffer cables that give off a stunning futuristic design. Turn left to admire the three large domes of 2 Mahkamah Persekutuan Malaysia (the Federal Court of Malaysia). It was formerly located in Kuala Lumpur’s Sultan Abdul Samad building before moving to Putrajaya. A short drive away is 3 Masjid Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin, also known as the Iron Mosque because it was constructed using 6000 tons of iron. It is uniquely designed with German and Chinese art and is interestingly equipped with ultrasonic technology to prevent birds from entering the mosque.

Next, drive past the sailing-ship-like 4 Seri Wawasan Bridge to reach 5 Putra Mosque that is famous for its massive pink dome and a view that overlooks Tasik Putrajaya (Putrajaya Lake). Combining Arab-Islamic architecture and Muslim Persian–inspired artisanship, this mosque was completed in 1999 and can host up to 15,000 worshippers. Right around the corner is 6 Perdana Putra, the main office complex of Malaysia’s Prime Minister that is designed with a juxtaposition of Malay, Islamic and European influences. The soft green dome on the main building was inspired by Masjid Zahir (Zahir Mosque) in Alor Setar, Kedah. Wrap up your driving tour with a visit to 7 Moroccan Pavilion Putrajaya, a Moorish-style structure that mirrors the unique characteristics of the imperial cities in Morocco. Admire the geometric carvings and Arabic calligraphy that adorn the interior of the pavilion.

Kayaking adventures in Putrajaya

Kelab Tasik Putrajaya (kelabtasikputrajaya.com.my) or Putrajaya Lake Club offers single or double kayak rentals around Tasik Putrajaya from RM15 to RM20 per hour. It also provides Canadian canoes (RM20 per hour) that can fit up to three people and a rowing boat for one person (RM22 per hour). Life jackets and rowers are provided.

Batu CavesTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 20 MINS

Stairway to the Temple Cave

One of Malaysia’s most photographed sites, Batu Caves is 13km north of KL. Chances are, you’ve seen a postcard of the gold-painted Lord Muruga statue (42.7m) that was unveiled during the Thaipusam celebration in January 2016. This religious site began as a Hindu shrine when K Thamboosamy Pillai, the founder of Sri Mahamariamman Temple in KL placed a statue of Lord Muruga in the cavern in 1890. Today, visitors far and wide climb the 272 rainbow-coloured steps for a chance to visit the temple. At the top of the stairs, admire the colourful Temple Cave, also known as Cathedral Cave. Then, walk deeper into the chamber and climb more steps to the upper cavern to see the temple of Sri Valli Deivanai, Muruga’s wife. Muruga, son of Shiva, and the Hindu god of war, is widely worshipped in Hindu Tamil communities. Dark Cave, a conservation site next to the Temple Cave, is closed indefinitely.

The Indian Epic of Ramayana

Turn left at Batu Caves’ rainbow staircase and walk towards the green 15m-tall statue of Hanuman, Ramayana’s divine companion, to reach the Sri Ramayana Cave. In this limestone cave that weaves the Indian epic of Ramayana through psychedelic dioramas, the peaceful ambience provides a much-needed respite from the more popular Temple Cave. Inside you can’t miss the giant statue of Kumbhakarna, brother of Ravana and a deep sleeper (note the attempts to wake him with arrows and cymbals). Climb the stairs to a shrine featuring a naturally occurring Suyambu Lingam, a 25m-tall stalagmite that is a symbol of Shiva. There’s also a small Lord Ganesha statue that’s shaped over time from limestone and water droplets.

THAIPUSAM IN MALAYSIA

Generally falling in January or February, Thaipusam is a widely celebrated Tamil Hindu festival in Malaysia. Celebrating the first full moon of the Tamil month of Thai, this festival honours Lord Muruga, the destroyer of evil. The country’s grandest celebration is held in Batu Caves, Selangor. This two-day festival begins with a chariot procession carrying statues of Lord Muruga from Sri Mahamariamman Temple in Kuala Lumpur to Batu Caves. During the procession, devotees carry a stunningly decorated kavadi (a ceremonial piece symbolising ‘burden’) on their shoulders while performing the Kavadi Attam dance. You can also see other devotees lifting a pot of cow’s milk over their heads as an offering. Once the procession is complete, the chariot journeys back from Batu Caves to Sri Mahamariamman Temple.

Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM)TIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 25 MINS

Morning strolls in the garden

Kepong Botanic Gardens, 18km from KL, feels like a gift for locals who wish for more green spaces in the city. It’s a good spot for a relaxing jog and morning stroll. Managed by FRIM, this park doubles as an ex-situ conservation place for Malaysian plants. Check out its collection of fruit trees, pitcher plants and limestone plants.

WHEELCHAIR-FRIENDLY NATURE TRAIL

Several nature trails in Kepong Botanic Gardens are open to the public, and Denai Razak (Razak Walk) is one of them. Named after the second prime minister of Malaysia, Tun Abdul Razak, this human-made forest trail is the country’s first wheelchair-friendly trail. Opened in 2008, the smooth cemented trail of Denai Razak measures about 400m in length, and no guide is required to explore it.

Kepong Botanic Gardens is located in FRIM, a forest research institute founded in 1926, so you can expect to see a rich diversity of under-story plants that flourish in low-light conditions. Some of these include wild gingers, ferns and orchids.

Entry to Kepong Botanic Gardens is free for people with disabilities.

Forest Skywalk | Ynettet/shutterstock ©

A walk above the trees

Follow the signage to Forest Skywalk within Kepong Botanic Gardens. At this towering aluminium structure built with steel tubes and guy wire, the layout is shaped like a floating rectangle, and it takes about 30 to 40 minutes to complete. This canopy walkway has 11 towers and eight bridges with different heights (18m to 39m) and you can pay RM5 more to climb up the 50m tower (for visitors above 13 years only). Walking amid the treetops also means you have access to a panoramic city view. If you’re lucky, spot long-tailed macaques and black giant squirrels in the trees.

Between June and September, get a bird’s-eye view of the fruiting durian trees in the orchard next to the skywalk. Kids under seven are not allowed to enter the Forest Skywalk. If it rains, you can reschedule your visit to another day.

Nature guide for trekkers

It’s always more rewarding to explore FRIM in the company of a nature guide. Join the FRIM Guided Forest Walk (RM150 for a group of 10) where a professional nature guide takes you through Keruing and Salleh trails. Depending on your fitness, it takes about one to two hours to complete. You will get to see the uniqueness of Crown Shyness, a puzzle-like formation in the sky where the crown of the kapur tree doesn’t touch the leaves of a tree of the same species due to its sensitive and ‘shy’ shoots. The result is a photogenic snapshot of the forest canopy from the ground up.

Trekkers undaunted by insects should book a night walk (RM250 for a group of 20). A guide takes you through the Engkabang trail for insights into the forest’s nocturnal wildlife. If you’re fortunate enough, spot frogs, flying lemur and nocturnal birds in the dark. FRIM Main Campus is a seven-minute drive from Kepong Botanic Gardens.

SekinchanTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR 20 MINS

The fishing village of Bagan

The history of Sekinchan begins in Bagan fishing village, inhabited by Teochew fishers in the 1920s. Visit the village for an insight into Sekinchan’s thriving fishing industry, one of its main economic activities. As early as 4am, the hustle and bustle of the boats heading to Selat Melaka (Strait of Melaka) adds a lively atmosphere to the calm Sekinchan. When the boats return after a long day (around 5pm), the ambience mellows and it’s a good time to take photos of large boats anchored along the river. All the action shifts to the seafood markets like Men in Fish Sekinchan, Hai Seng Huat Fishery and Hong King Mooi Fishery, where locals get the freshest supplies of fish, prawns and crabs at a good price.

Bagan is along the river, next to Pantai Redang (not to be confused with Pulau Redang in Terengganu).

Wander Around the paddy fields

Known as the rice bowl of Selangor, the vast paddy cultivation area (4700 acres) promises a scenic drive as you enter Sekinchan. To learn more about the paddy plantation process and methods, visit the Paddy Gallery where you can see massive machinery at its Rice Mill Factory. Each ticket comes with a free block of fragrant pearl rice to take home. To explore the paddy fields, bicycle rentals are available at AMG Bicycle Renting (RM10 per hour). The best time to visit Sekinchan is when the fields turn golden yellow (mid-May and mid-November). The rice paddies are usually harvested twice a year in June and December.

Savour crispy kuih kapit from Ah Ma House

Ah Ma House, meaning Grandma’s House in Hokkien, is a small bakery famous for making traditional kuih kapit (crispy egg waffles) from scratch. The egg batter is made with simple ingredients: ground rice, coconut milk, eggs and sugar. It is then poured and clasped in small metal plates before being heated over charcoal. This crepe-like dessert is prepared daily, so you’re guaranteed a fresh batch. Steeped in nostalgia, Ah Ma House is decorated with antiques, old typewriters and classic furniture. Step inside and find a local selection of snacks, biscuits, candies and local coffee.

WISHING TREE AT PANTAI REDANG

Before reaching Pantai Redang, make a stop at the scarlet-painted Datuk Kong (Na Tuk Kong) temple facing the beach. The temple is said to have been around for nearly a century, and you’ll find Taoist worshippers placing offerings or joss sticks at the altar seeking protection from the guardian deity. Next to the temple is a massive banyan tree, known as the Sekinchan Wishing Tree. For a small donation, you can get a piece of red streamer from the temple, write your wish on the streamer and throw it up into the tree as high as you can. Worshippers believe that the higher it lands on the tree, the higher the chances of your wish coming true.

Kuala SelangorTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR

Visit the historical lLandmarks at Bukit Malawati

It’s a 15-minute walk through landscaped parklands to the top of Bukit Malawati (Malawati Hill), but you can take the tourist train (RM5) from the entrance to save time. A former administrative and military fort, all that remains today are sections of walls and cannons. There is also an old well that was once filled with water poisoned by deadly saps and bamboo shoots and used to torture traitors. At the summit, visit Altingsburg Lighthouse (dating from 1907) once used to signal ships passing through Selat Melaka.

Across the street from the lighthouse is Baitul Hilal, a latticed building built for the sighting of the new moon. Depending on the month, the new moon signals the beginning of Ramadan (start of Muslim fasting month), Syawal (the end of the fasting month) and Hari Raya Haji.

Around the corner is Muzium Sejarah Daerah Kuala Selangor, a small museum where you can learn about Kuala Selangor’s early settlement, fishing culture and trading history. It’s a good half-hour diversion and there are some interesting displays of traditional weapons and Malay cannons.

THE MONKEYS OF BUKIT MALAWATI

When you reach the top of Bukit Malawati, spot a tribe of monkeys hanging out in front of Muzium Sejarah Daerah Kuala Selangor. This tribe consists of silvered leaf monkeys (ashen grey) and long-tailed macaques (brown). The silvered leaf monkey is gentle and cheeky. However, it may climb up your shoulders or approach in small groups in an attempt to snatch food from your hands. If you’re lucky, you can spot newborn babies with bright orange fur clinging to their mothers. Visitors should stay away from long-tailed macaques, which are more mischievous and aggressive than the rest. There are a few food vendors nearby selling carrots and long beans. This spot is within walking distance of the Altingsburg Lighthouse and Baitul Hilal.

Kuala Kubu Bharu | AzleenRamli/shutterstock ©

Spot the twinkling fireflies in Kampung Kuantan

There are two main places for viewing fireflies around Kuala Selangor. Kampung Kuantan Firefly Park provides Malay-style wooden boats (leaving on demand) to take up to four people for a 45-minute river trip to the ‘show trees’ and their dazzling displays, rather reminiscent of a light-spangled Christmas tree. Bring insect repellent. It’s most easily reached with your own vehicle.

Sky Mirror Fireflies Tour also takes visitors on a traditional sampan (boat) to the mangrove trees along Sungai Selangor. It’s a two-minute drive from Bukit Malawati, so it’s easier to get to than Kampung Kuantan.

Walking on water at Sky Mirror

There’s a mysterious sandbank called Sasaran Beach that emerges during the first and 15th day of the lunar month, between the new moon and the full moon. When the tide recedes, visitors can walk on a thin layer of water on the sandbank to admire the mirror-like reflection of the sky. To access the massive sandbank in the middle of Selat Melaka, take a boat with Sky Mirror. Once you arrive, you have 1½ to two hours to explore the sandbank and capture yourself jumping or walking on a natural reflection of the sky. Since this activity is tide-dependent, check the website (skymirrormalaysia.org) for the schedule. It’s updated monthly. Sky Mirror also offers a package tour which includes a fireflies visit.

Kuala Kubu BharuTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR

Whitewater rafting in Sungai Selangor

The fun part about Kuala Kubu Bharu is navigating the tumultuous rapids of Sungai Selangor (Selangor River) and whitewater rafting is the way to do it. Raftasia Sport was founded by Kamal, a Jakun native from Endau Rompin, Pahang, with a passion for whitewater rafting. Together with other guides from the Temuan and Semai tribes, his company takes adrenaline seekers on a two-hour rafting adventure starting from the Selangor dam and ending at Sungai Selangor.

Xventure Mind has highly skilled oarsmen trained in river safety, so you’re in good hands. Leaving from Selangor dam, the journey starts slow before the rapid picks up and sends you on an adrenaline-pumping adventure along Sungai Selangor.

PieRose Swiftwater also offers whitewater rafting packages. Opened in 2006 by a husband-and-wife team, their local guides are mostly members of the indigenous community. The package includes rafting equipment, experienced guides, on-river snacks and lunch.

Paragliding to new heights

If you want to view Kuala Kubu Bharu from a different perspective, KKB Paragliding Park is the place to be. It’s a five- to 10-minute tandem paragliding experience where you soar in the sky amid the mountain ranges and lush greenery while strapped to a professional paraglider. The park records all paragliding experiences on a GoPro, so you can relive the memory on land. This is a weather-dependent activity, so flights may get cancelled. If that happens, you can reschedule to another day. Bring sunglasses and wear sunblock. Maximum weight is 120kg per person.

SELANGOR CIVIL WAR

During Sultan Muhammad Shah’s reign as the Sultan of Selangor from 1827 to 1857, he initially designated the Klang region to his son, Raja Sulaiman. Later on, the plan changed and he bestowed it on his son-in-law, Raja Abdullah, instead. The resentment led to the power struggle between opposing factions led by Raja Abdullah and Raja Mahadi, the son of Raja Sulaiman. The Selangor Civil War, also known as the Klang War, took place from 1867 to 1873. During this tumultuous period, Raja Mahadi built a fort (kubu) along the Selangor River, which contributed to the town name Kuala Kubu. The war ended when Raja Abdullah, with the help of Tengku Kudin (the Kedah prince), captured Kuala Selangor in 1873. Raja Mahadi retreated to Johor and later died in Singapore in 1882.

Genting HighlandsTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR

Theme park in the highlands

What Genting SkyWorlds Theme Park has that other theme parks don’t is the subtropical highland climate. Instead of braving the queue in humidity, this one needs a light sweater. If you’re taking the Awana Skyway cable car, chances are you’ll see a bird’s-eye view of the massive theme park. Divided into seven sections, the outdoor theme park has 26 rides. Avoid long queues by downloading the Genting SkyWorlds app. Use the VQ (virtual queue) feature to reserve time slots. That way, you won’t miss the Night at the Museum 3D ride, Mad Ramp Peak roller-coaster and the Invasion of the Planet of the Apes ride. This theme park also has a rainy-day guarantee. If it rains, Genting Highlands also has an indoor theme park called Skytropolis Indoor Theme Park with over 40 rides to enjoy.

Genting Highlands is technically in Pahang, but it’s accessible from KL (46km north). Most buses depart from KLIA, KL Sentral and other major bus terminals in KL and then stop at Awana Bus Terminal. From there, take the Awana Skyway cable car to Genting Highlands. Buy tickets from easybook.com or busonlineticket.com.

A visit to the Caves Temple

Bookended by the golf course and Genting Highlands, is a Buddhist temple that sits on a forested cliff. The brainchild of Genting Group founder, the late Tan Sri Lim Goh Tong, the temple was completed in 1994. It was named after Chin Swee Crag in Fujian, China, where the rocky slopes, lush greenery and flowing streams reminded him of his birthplace. There’s a nine-storey pagoda with a monumental lotus-seated Buddha and Kuan Yin statue, but it’s the Journey to Enlightenment pathway – 10 gory dioramas of punishments in hell – that will be seared into your brain. Don’t bring the kids.

GAMBLING LAWS

Malaysia has strict gambling laws and prohibits specific forms of gambling such as sports betting and online gambling. The Common Gaming Houses Act of 1953 criminalises most gambling activities, reflecting the country’s conservative stance on the issue. However, a few forms of gambling are permitted such as licensed sweepstakes, horse racing in turf clubs and licensed casinos. Today, Resorts World Genting is Malaysia’s only land-based casino area with licences from the Betting Control Unit under the Ministry of Finance. The casinos mainly consist of classic table games and slot machines. Since Malaysia is a Muslim-majority country, gambling is prohibited under Islamic law. Therefore, the casino is only open to non-Muslim visitors above 21 years of age.

SerembanTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR

Explore the Cultural Arts Complex

The Cultural Arts Complex, a 10-minute drive from Seremban KTM station, consists of Muzium Negeri Sembilan (the main building), Istana Ampang Tinggi and Rumah Tradisi Negeri Sembilan.

Muzium Negeri Sembilan has two floors and is designed with Minangkabau-style roofs resembling buffalo horns. Explore the ground floor to learn more about the history, customs and traditions of Negeri Sembilan. Take the staircase to the upper floor to discover the practices of adat pepatih, a customary law where lineage and inheritance are traced through the matrilineal line. The museum also displays information about the traditional food, costumes, dance and music in Negeri Sembilan, but it’s mostly in Malay.

Turn right at the museum entrance to find Istana Ampang Tinggi, a traditional palace that was originally built in the paddy fields of Kampung Ampang Tinggi in Kuala Pilah. To conserve its structure, it was dismantled and rebuilt in Seremban in 1953 and again in the Cultural Arts Complex in 1980. Next to the palace is Rumah Tradisi Negeri Sembilan, a traditional Malay home that was built without a single piece of metal nail or wooden peg.

EATING IN KUALA KUBU BHARU: OUR PICKS

Kedai Makanan Lee $ A charming family-run coffee shop that serves traditional curry noodles, mee goreng and good local coffees.

Yogi Cafe Kuala Kubu Bharu $ A cafe that serves standard local and Western favourites, from nasi lemak to chicken chop. Kids menu available.

Sun Sun Nam Cheong $ An old-school Chinese restaurant with favourites like char kuey teow, bihun hailam, roti bakar, fried rice and kong fu mee.

98 Seafood Restaurant $ Perfect for large groups, this Chinese restaurant is best known for its pork knuckle, crab porridge and steamed fish. Long queues.

Chin Swee Caves Temple | cktravels.com/shutterstock ©

Visit the royal gallery

Step into Galeri Diraja Tuanku Ja’afar, a royal gallery that honours the former Yang Di-Pertuan Besar (the Grand Ruler) of Negeri Sembilan, Tuanku Ja’afar. The ground floor showcases his passions, spanning from golf and cricket to painting. The upper floor chronicles his early childhood years during the Japanese advancement. The main highlight is on the highest floor where you can admire a replica of the grand throne room in Istana Besar Sri Menanti, as well as portraits of Tuanku Ja’afar with various world leaders.

NEGERI SEMBILAN’S MUST TRIES

Salai daging masak lemak

Popular in Malay restaurants, salai daging (smoked meat) is cooked in spicy coconut broth (masak lemak).

Rendang minang

Originating from the Minangkabau community in Indonesia’s West Sumatra, this beef stew is slow-cooked with spices and coconut milk. Best eaten with steamed rice.

Seremban siew pow

A crispy and flaky pastry bun that’s stuffed with pork filling, vegetables, or chicken curry.

Kuih sopang

This traditional steamed cake is made from glutinous rice flour, coconut milk and bananas. It also has grated coconut filling.

Sambal gesek

Best enjoyed with steamed rice, this fragrant and spicy condiment consists of anchovies that are stir-fried with chilli and onions.

Sri MenantiTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR 20 MINS

Admire the Minangkabau architecture

Muzium Diraja Istana Lama Sri Menanti, a 30-minute drive from Seremban, is a sight to behold. Completed in 1908, this impressive black hardwood palace was a temporary replacement for an even older palace that was razed by British soldiers during the Bukit Putus War. Admire the ornate upper-roof structure that was assembled using a traditional method known as lipatan gunting (folding scissors) technique.

The palace has four floors complete with long galleries and a unique gabled tower. Instead of metal nails, the palace was constructed using wooden pegs to hold everything in place. It’s elevated on 99 pillars, many of them carved with foliated designs, with each post said to represent one of the legendary 99 luak (clan) warriors of Negeri Sembilan. Climb to the top floor for views over the gardens.

Inside the palace is the royal throne, the young king’s hall, the king and queen’s bedchambers, and a large dining room. Spot the Takhta Rencana, a royal carriage used in official ceremonies including the royal coronation, handmade by skilled craftspeople.

The royal family of Negeri Sembilan resided in Istana Lama until 1931 before moving to the new Istana Besar, a two-minute drive away.

EATING IN SEREMBAN: OUR PICKS

Hayyan Huda Opah’s Kitchen $ A Malay eatery serving authentic Negeri Sembilan cuisine. Try the spicy masak lemak cili api and asam pedas.

Min Kok Restaurant $$ A spacious Chinese restaurant serving steamed pork dumpling, steamed bean-curd roll and deep-fried yams.

Restoran Seremban Seafood Village $$ Ideal for large groups. Famous for its signature baked crab in flavours like dried curry and butter cream.

Haji Shariff’s Cendol $ A local’s favourite since it first opened in the 1930s; try a bowl of its refreshingly sweet cendol (a traditional iced dessert).

THE PERPATIH CUSTOM

During the Melaka Sultanate period in the 1500s, there was a migration of Minangkabau community from Indonesia’s West Sumatra to Negeri Sembilan. One of their most significant contributions is the adat perpatih (perpatih custom), a matrilineal customary law that was founded by Datuk Perpatih Nan Sebatang in the early 17th century. In this system, the lineage and inheritance are traced through the female line. Since women hold a central role in family and community affairs, property and titles are passed down from mother to daughter. In the spirit of unity, the community also gathers to make decisions or resolve disputes together to reach a consensus agreeable to all. Today, adat perpatih is still practised in Negeri Sembilan and some parts of Melaka.

Pantai Tanjung Biru | Limlim/shutterstock ©

Visit the new royal palace

Just a short drive from Istana Lama, Istana Besar is the impressive modern white palace of the Yang di-Pertuan Besar (head of state) of Negeri Sembilan. Built in the 1930s, the palace is not open to the public. You can spot the palace by taking the right-hand exit from the main roundabout as you drive west along Sri Menanti’s main road. More than likely, you won’t get further than a decorative – and firmly shut – gate.

For a rare glimpse of the palace grounds, Istana Besar holds an annual open house in celebration of Hari Raya Aidilfitri where the public is invited to join the festivity with the head of state. Otherwise, you can view a replica of the royal throne room and a layout of the palace grounds at Galeri Diraja Tuanku Ja’afar in Seremban.

Port DicksonTIME FROM KUALA LUMPUR: 1 HR 20 MINS

Hiking in Tanjung Tuan

Tanjung Tuan Recreational Forest, a 25-minute drive from Port Dickson, has two hiking trails that lead to picturesque sea views. The first trail leads to Bukit Batu Putih and the second takes visitors to Tanjung Tuan Lighthouse.

From the entrance of Taman Eco-Rimba Tanjung Tuan, follow the signs to Bukit Batu Putih. The trail begins along the paved pedestrian-only road and into forested trails. Stick to the marked trails (small red-white caution tapes or arrows on the trees) unless you’re a trained survivalist. To reach the summit of Bukit Batu Putih, find a rope and climb up onto the white rocky boulders for a spectacular view of Selat Melaka.

Make your way back to the paved road and locate the signs to Tanjung Tuan Lighthouse, also known as Cape Rachado Lighthouse, Malaysia’s oldest. In 1606, the seats around the cape blazed with a naval battle between the Portuguese and Dutch armadas; the Portuguese outgunned the Dutch but were later forced to capitulate. The lighthouse, a 20-minute uphill hike from the park entrance, isn’t open to the public, but you can walk around it for another viewing point of the great sea views. On a clear day you can see Sumatra, 38km away across the strait.

Bird-watching in Tanjung Tuan

Tanjung Tuan Recreational Forest is a popular spot for bird-watching. Thousands of migratory birds from the southern to the northern hemisphere make a stop at this forest reserve. Come between September and March when the winter migration of birds flocks Tanjung Tuan. Bring your binoculars to spot the oriental honey-buzzard and black baza. Bird-watchers can also join Raptor Watch Festival, an annual event in March. Activities include bird-watching, raptor counting, nature walks and mangrove-tree planting.

Relaxing beach vibes

Pantai Tanjung Biru (Blue Lagoon) is one of the more tranquil and cleaner beaches in Port Dickson. Fringed by swaying trees and soft sands, it’s a famous spot to relax and enjoy the sun. If you want to do more than just swimming, there are kayaking and banana-boat rides available here. Parking is limited and the beach is packed on weekends. It’s an easy reach from Tanjung Tuan Recreational Forest, but about a 25-minute drive from the main town area.

Pantai Teluk Kemang is livelier on weekends with more food and drink stalls on deck. Hit the nearby street markets where you can get floats, toys and T-shirts. Similar to other beaches, there are jet skis and banana-boat rides to enjoy. You can rent a tent with tables and chairs for RM30 per day. It’s a 20-minute drive from the main town area.

THE TALE OF TANJUNG

Port Dickson was formerly known as Tanjung, one of the most prominent seaports along Selat Melaka (Strait of Melaka). In the 19th century, Sir John Frederick Dickson, a British colonial administrator of the Straits Settlements, saw the potential to turn Tanjung into a thriving seaport due to its strategic location on the trading route between India and China. When the port opened, it became a meeting point for merchants to trade spices, tea and silk. To increase the trading of goods from sea to land, a railway track was constructed between Tanjung and Sungai Ujong (now Seremban) in 1891. The success of the seaport eventually led to Tanjung being renamed Port Dickson.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Bukit Bintang & KLCC

Bed KLCC $ Located right near KLCC, this chic capsule provides a comfy bed to sleep in and a comfortable lounge to stretch your legs.

Anggun Boutique Hotel $$ Traditional-style boutique hotel in a building that used to be a colonial-era home for a wealthy Chinese merchant.

KLoé Hotel $$ Artsy hotel with beautiful, modern interiors and tasteful suites themed around art, reading, cooking and more.

Kuala Lumpur Journal $$ Stay in the heart of Bukit Bintang at this modern boutique hotel with a rooftop pool. Plenty of malls and restaurants within walking distance.

Wolo $$ One of Bukit Bintang’s most convenient hotels, directly across the road from the Lot 10 shopping centre. Chic, modern rooms.

Mov Hotel $$ Stylish and modern rooms near the nightlife district of Changkat Bukit Bintang where there’s plenty to eat and drink.

RuMa $$$ A luxury hotel that feels like a tranquil resort in the city; near the Petronas Towers. The spa here is among Kuala Lumpur’s best.

Bukit Nanas, Chinatown & Around

Lantern Hotel $ Rooms here are kept clean and minimalist, but the cool common areas and terrace overlooking Petaling St more than make up for it.

Mingle Hostel $ While facilities are bare-bones, the experience of staying in an old Chinatown building from the 1920s definitely makes up for it.

Yu Hotel $ Simple, clean and minimally furnished rooms above a tea shop. Near some of Chinatown’s best bars and restaurants.

Chow Kit $$ Beautiful rooms done in a modern, classic style. Hotel common areas evoke a Kuala Lumpur of decades past.

Tian Jing Hotel $$ A modern boutique hotel with a classic Chinese flair, occupying renovated colonial-era shophouses in the thick of Chinatown.

Else Kuala Lumpur $$$ Housed within the Lee Rubber building – a Kuala Lumpur icon – is this sanctuary in a bustling part of the city. Think lots of neutral tones.

Lake Gardens, Bangsar & Around

Alila Bangsar $$ Sleek, inviting rooms also open up to sweeping views of the city. Don’t leave without dining at French restaurant Entier, on the 41st floor.

Sekeping Tenggiri $$ A stay at this quiet, exposed-brick house with a lovely tree-shrouded courtyard is an experience in itself. For more privacy, try Sekeping Backlane.

Amari Kuala Lumpur $$ Comfortable beds and spacious rooms near public transport and the huge Mid Valley Megamall, where dining options abound.

Majestic Hotel $$$ A colonial structure built in 1932, it was one of the grandest hotels of its time and remains a timeless luxury hotel today.

Petaling Jaya

Le Méridien Petaling Jaya $$$ A stylish hotel with large rooms and close proximity to Paradigm Mall.

Sunway Resort Hotel $$$ A stunning five-star hotel with direct access to Sunway Pyramid Mall and Sunway Lagoon theme park.

Seremban

Royale Chulan Seremban $$ A cosy and comfortable accommodation with a view of Taiping Lake Gardens.

Klana Resort Seremban $$ A city hotel with spacious rooms, large family suites and a lagoon-shaped swimming pool.

Tanjung Tuan Lighthouse | LimLim/shutterstock ©

Perak & Cameron Highlands

HERITAGE TOWNS & MOUNTAIN RANGES

Step into Malaysia’s fourth-largest state to wander around historical towns, limestone cave temples and serene tea plantations.

Royal Belum State Park | muhd fuad abd rahim/shutterstock ©

There’s a rich tin-mining history to dig into once you arrive in Perak. Meaning ‘silver’ in Malay, the name is a nod to the wealth of silver tin ore deposits uncovered during the tin rush in the 1820s. The abundance of silver contributed to Perak’s economic development and subsequently the establishment of Malaysia’s first museum, railway station and other landmarks. Today, you can experience Perak amid a landscape of laid-back towns, colonial architecture and limestone hills.

Magic Orb Studio/shutterstock ©

Begin your journey in Ipoh brimming with local street food and heritage landmarks. Then, make your way to Taiping to explore the historic town and the nearby coastal village. For a relaxing getaway, board a ferry to Pulau Pangkor for a sunny weekend of island-hopping, banana-boat rides and snorkelling. Once you’ve had your fill of the sun, hit the road to the royal town of Kuala Kangsar for a glimpse of the regal palaces from the past and present. If you’re feeling adventurous, look north to Gerik to explore the archaeological sites in Lenggong or trek through the Belum-Temenggor rainforest.

To escape the humidity, Perak is a convenient jumping-off point to the Cameron Highlands (technically in Pahang). Admiring the rolling tea plantations is a must-do, as is enjoying a morning hike through a mossy forest, shopping in the night market and picking fresh strawberries for the ride home.

THE MAIN AREAS

IPOH

Heritage town, trendy cafes, street food.

TAIPING

Laid-back town and fishing village.

PANGKOR

Island-hopping and snorkelling holidays.

KUALA KANGSAR

Royal palaces and river cruises.

GERIK

Archaeological sites and pristine rainforest.

CAMERON HIGHLANDS

Tea plantations and strawberry picking.

Find Your Way

As the fourth-largest state in Malaysia, Perak is 20,976 sq km – almost 90 times the size of Kuala Lumpur – enough to fit serene towns, mountain ranges and a millennia-old rainforest.

Plan Your Time

Strolling around town and historic buildings is great, but spend some time visiting the limestone cave temples, seeking island relaxation and immersing in nature.

Temenggor Lake | Abdul Razak Latif/shutterstock ©

Three Days to Explore

When in Perak, make your way to the bustling Ipoh Old Town for local food, hidden shopping lanes and street art. The next day, continue to Taiping to visit Malaysia’s first landmarks and drive to the nearby coastal village, or take the bus to Lumut Jetty and catch the ferry to Pangkor Island for a fun day of snorkelling and island-hopping.

A Weeklong Jaunt

From Ipoh, plan a trip to Kuala Kangsar to visit the royal palace and enjoy a boat cruise along Sungai Perak. The next day, take the bus to Lenggong and stay overnight to explore the archaeological caves and Malaysia’s Mini Amazon. Travel north from Lenggong and stay stay overnight in the Belum-Temenggor rainforest.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

JANUARY TO MARCH

Plan a vacation in Pulau Pangkor, avoiding the island’s year-end wet season.

APRIL TO JUNE

Go on a scenic road trip to Cameron Highlands before heavier rains set in.

JULY TO SEPTEMBER

Bird-watch in Belum-Temenggor rainforest or visit the caves in Lenggong.

OCTOBER TO DECEMBER

Take a city break in Ipoh, Taiping, or Kuala Kangsar, but be prepared for the wet season.

Pulau Banding | Abdul Razak Latif/shutterstock ©

Ipoh

COLONIAL LANDMARKS | STREET ART | CAVE TEMPLES

Take a drive along the North–South Expressway to Ipoh and you’ll discover a charming city sprawled with pre-war shophouses, delicious street food and a bustling atmosphere. Situated along Sungai Kinta (Kinta River), Perak’s capital city has a rich history of tin mining as well as empire building by the Chinese clans, evident throughout the area’s heritage museums. Walking around town is the best way to admire the colonial buildings and discover hidden street art. Don’t be deterred by the long queues at local coffee shops – the Ipoh white coffee is a must-try. While all these experiences are enough to make you fall for Ipoh, take the time to explore Gopeng, a nearby town that’s surrounded by towering limestone karsts with stunning cave temples that are worth visiting. For the adventurous, Gua Tempurung is a 400-million-year-old limestone cave with a long underground river that’s famous among thrill-seekers.

SIGHTS

1  A Paper Plane

2  An Old Uncle Drinking Coffee

3  Birch Memorial Clock Tower

4  Evolution

5  Han Chin Pet Soo

6  Ho Yan Hor Museum

7  Ipoh High Court

8  Ipoh War Memorial

9  Kapitan Chung Thye Phin Building

10  Masjid Sultan Idris Shah II

11  Town Hall

12  Train Station

SLEEPING

13  Abby by the River

14  Sarang Paloh Heritage Stay

15  Sekeping Kong Heng

EATING

16  Kedai Kopi Sin Yoon Loong

17  Kedai Makanan Nam Heong

SHOPPING

18  Concubine Lane

19  Kong Heng Square Artisan Market

SIGHTS

1  HOGA Gaharu Tea Valley

2  Kellie’s Castle

3  Qing Xin Ling Leisure and Cultural Village

4  Sungai Kampar

5  Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge No. 5

6  Tasik Cermin

7  Tasik Cermin 2

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

8  Gua Tempurung

9  Kek Look Tong

10  Perak Tong

11  Riverbug Perak White Water Rafting

12  Sam Poh Tong

EATING

13  Restoran New Holly Wood

GETTING AROUND

Walking around Ipoh is doable because the town is compact with plenty of sidewalks. Parking may be difficult to during weekends and public holidays – save yourself the headache by using the ride-hailing app Grab. Taxis are available around tourist spots, shopping malls and at the train station. Check whether they use a fare metre – if not, negotiate the fare before agreeing to the ride. You can also catch the public buses called myBAS that depart from Medan Kidd Bus Station and run at a 20- to 30-minute interval. Find the full bus schedule at the Perak Transit website.

Wander Heritage Museums

Immerse yourself in stories from Ipoh’s past

Visit the local museums to learn more about Ipoh’s early beginnings. Join the guided tour at Han Chin Pet Soo, a small museum that charts the history of the Hakka Miners’ Club, a clubhouse founded by Towkay Leong Fee in 1893. Book the tour in advance at ipohworld.org. Then walk over to Ho Yan Hor Museum, a Chinese herbal tea museum that chronicles the founder Dr Ho Kai Cheong’s journey of building this brand since the 1940s. Free tea tasting is available at the end of your visit, so sample the herbal concoction that is said to provide relief and natural healing.

TOP TIP

Ipoh has a large Chinese population, so expect shops and restaurants to be closed during Chinese New Year and other Chinese celebrations. Check publicholidays.com.my to see if your trip coincides with a local celebration.

Ipoh’s Street Arts

Admire Ipoh’s decorative murals

In 2014, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic transformed Ipoh’s weathered walls into a series of captivating artworks. Starting from Ipoh Tourist Information Center, spot the larger-than-life mural of An Old Uncle Drinking Coffee that encapsulates the locals’ love for Ipoh white coffee. Then walk towards the end of a row of shophouses along Jln Tun Sambanthan to find a mural of A Paper Plane. In the intersection of Jln Panglima and Jln Bijeh Timah, next to Ho Yan Hor Museum, there’s a massive (but almost faded) mural called Evolution, which portrays Perak’s tin-mining dredge from the late 1800s.

IPOH COFFEE

What makes Ipoh’s white coffee different is the roasting technique: it’s primarily made using arabica beans that are slow roasted with margarine at low temperature. Enjoy it sweetened with condensed milk to balance the bitterness from the roasted beans. The best place to try it is from the coffee shops along Jln Bandar Timah. Try the multigenerational Kedai Kopi Sin Yoon Loong or Kedai Makanan Nam Heong.

Bring Out Your Wallets

Shop Ipoh’s hidden shopping lanes

There are two shopping lanes you can visit in Ipoh. Start at Kong Heng Artisan Market, which sells artisanal handicrafts, ranging from ceramics and jewellery to clothing and handbags. The indoor market is located in Kong Heng Square, a heritage building that’s also home to a quaint bookstore, a boutique hotel and trendy cafes. Opposite the square, Concubine Lane is a shopping spot named after its infamous past as a meeting place between Chinese tycoons and their mistresses during the old tin-mining days. Expect a similar variety of accessories and clothing as well as local desserts like ice cream puffs or tanghulu (candied fruits on skewers). Most shops open on weekends.

Scenic Foothills & Cave Temples

Visit the limestone cave temples

There are only a handful of cave temples in Malaysia, and a few of them are located within a short drive from Ipoh. Sitting serenely on the foothill of Gunung Rapat (Rapat Mountain), visit Sam Poh Tong, one of Ipoh’s oldest cave temples, discovered in 1912 and fronted by a grand entrance pavilion.Follow the path through the main chamber to a stunning scarlet-tiered pavilion squeezed into a narrow, rocky cleft. Centred by a beautiful koi pond, visit the picturesque ornamental garden adorned with miniature shrines and Buddha statues.

Kek Look Tong is a neighbouring temple within 10 minutes’ driving distance. Meaning ‘Cave of Great Happiness’, the main cavern has three Taoist deities and the path continues towards the back where you’ll find a Chinese Buddha of Future Happiness accompanied by three bodhisattvas. Beyond the main chambers, there’s a beautiful garden by a large lake that was once a mining site. They also have paddle boat rentals for two people (RM12 for 30 minutes) or four people (RM20 for 30 minutes).

If you have time for one more temple, Perak Tong is located in the foothills of Gunung Tunggal and features mesmerising murals and panoramic views. The first staircase leads to a majestic seated 12m-tall Buddha in the main chamber. Some of the surrounding murals were painted as recently as the 1990s. Follow the narrow staircase up and outside – after 450 steep steps, you’ll reach expansive views across Ipoh and its hilly beyond.

Village of History & Culture

Stroll through a recreational village

Just a 12-minute drive from Ipoh, Qing Xin Ling Leisure & Cultural Village makes a splendid stop after your visit to the cave temples. Located at the foothills of Gunung Rapat, this family-friendly attraction is sprawled with traditional houses as well as vintage treasures like a hand-drawn trishaw, an old food cart and an antique car. Together, these dwellings and artefacts replicate a traditional Chinese village. Don’t miss the mirror-like reflection of the surrounding limestone hills that shines from the lake in the middle of the village. Explore on foot or use the bicycles and four-seater rickshaws for free. There’s a massive Banyan tree near the lake where you can buy a red ribbon to write a wish on and throw onto the tree, as high as you can. The higher on the tree that it lands, the sooner your wish will come true – or so they say.

KINTA VALLEY’S GEOLOGICAL HERITAGE

Kinta Valley, also known as Lembah Kinta, was one of the world’s major tin producers between 1876 and 1950. Limestone quarrying was the early economic contributor in Perak before tin ore deposits were discovered in the quarries. Tin mining eventually became a revenue-generating industry for Perak, which led to the migration of Chinese settlers who came to work as miners. The economic boom also contributed to the development of nearby towns like Ipoh, Gopeng, Kampar and Batu Gajah. Gunung Rapat, an easy reach from Ipoh, is one of the more prominent limestone hills in Kinta Valley. With the highest peak measuring at 318m, this is also home to stunning cave temples like Sam Poh Tong and Kek Look Tong.

WHERE TO EAT IN IPOH

Restoran New Holly Wood $ This Chinese coffee shop serves prawn chee cheong fun, roti bakar telur goyang and dim sum.

Nasi Ganja Ipoh $ This Malay eatery has delicious nasi kandar paired with fried chicken and addictively good curry.

Sin Hup Kee Restaurant $$ Steamed grouper, fried kailan and Portuguese freshwater prawns are favourites at this Chinese restaurant.

Yum Yum Restaurant $ Peranakan and Malaysian cuisine including pandan chicken, fish-head curry, stir-fried kangkong and laksa.

IPOH HERITAGE WALKING TOUR

Start at 1 Ipoh KTM Railway Station, an Anglo-Asian architectural landmark that first opened in 1917. It was originally used as a hospital before turning into a train station that still connects to other major stations in Peninsular Malaysia today.

Cross the street to see the cube-shaped 2 Ipoh War Memorial, which was constructed to remember those who perished during WWII. Walk towards your left to admire the 3 Ipoh High Court. Completed in 1928, this colonial building was designed by British government architect Arthur Benison Hubbuck, who also designed the Ipoh KTM Railway Station and the next attraction you’re about to visit, the 4 Ipoh Town Hall and Old Post Office. The town hall is closed, but it’s still worthy of admiration from the gates. Completed in 1916 after a series of delays during WWI, this building is a fine example of the Edwardian baroque architectural style. Behind the town hall is 5 Birch Memorial Clock Tower, completed in 1909 to commemorate James WW Birch, the first British Resident of Perak. Right across the street from the tower is 6 Masjid Sultan Idris Shah II, named after the sultan who officiated the mosque in 1978. Non-Muslims must dress modestly (women need to wear a headscarf) to enter.

End your walk at 7 Kapitan Chung Thye Phin Building, a Victorian-Palladian architectural landmark completed in 1905. It was named after the successful tin miner, who was also Malaya’s last Kapitan Cina (the representative of the Chinese enclave).

Wet & Wild

Gopeng’s whitewater rafting adventures

Gopeng makes a great launching pad for outdoor adventures including whitewater rafting. Depending on the tour operators, your thirst for adventure may lead you to the wild rapids of Sungai Kampar (Kampar River) or Slim River. The tour begins with a safety briefing and a crash course on various paddling strokes from a certified instructor. With the lush jungle as your audience, sway and swerve to the rhythm of the rapids before paddling gently to the calmest part of the river. For packages, contact RiverBug Perak or check out klook.com to compare rates from different tour operators.

Into the Caves

Plumbing the million-year-old depths

Exploring Gua Tempurung is a top reason to visit Gopeng, a 35-minute drive from Ipoh. Meaning ‘Coconut Cave’ in Malay, it is named after its dome-like interior. At a height of 578m and almost 1.9km in length, it’s the largest limestone cave complex in Peninsular Malaysia. If you prefer to explore at a leisurely pace, opt for the self-guided tours: ‘Golden Flowstone’ (40 minutes) or ‘Top of the World’ (one hour) take you up and down the tall metal staircases between hulking stalactites and stalagmites. Some parts are slippery and it’s best to wear footwear with good grip. Experienced spelunkers can join the guided two-hour ‘Short River Adventure’ or the four-hour ‘Grand Tour’. Your guide will take you beyond the standard paths where you will climb, crawl and walk through the underground rivers. Since the guided tours require participants to squeeze through narrow cave passages, skip this one if you’re claustrophobic. There are no buses to Gua Tempurung and ride-sharing vehicles are limited in Gopeng, so it’s best to rent a car in Ipoh.

Gaze at the Mirror Lake

Boating past limestone karsts

Tasik Cermin (Mirror Lake), a 20-minute drive from Ipoh, is in the foothills of Gunung Rapat. Enveloped by stunning limestone karsts, walk through a 90m-long limestone tunnel to reach a hidden lake best known for its mirror-like reflections. The gravel pathways are unpaved, so wear proper footwear. Come in the morning when the waters are calm and crowds are smaller to capture a stunning snapshot of the limestone karsts. Early birds can also beat the crowd and enjoy a 20-minute boat ride around the lake, minus the long waiting time. If it’s too crowded for your liking, Tasik Cermin 2, a five-minute walk from the first lake, is your next best option. The 20-minute boat ride glides through a 120m-long water tunnel before unveiling a view of the surrounding limestone hills.

WHY I LOVE GUA TEMPURUNG

Cheng Sim, writer

As a nature lover, visiting Gua Tempurung was one of my most memorable experiences in Perak. The moment I stepped into the cave chamber, my eyes widened at the large expanse within. The tour I joined led us through five different platforms. The most fascinating was the Golden Flowstone, a small cave chamber that was once occupied by Malayan communist insurgents and served as a shelter and storage cache for food and weapons. Another platform that stood out was the Wind Tunnel. I remember the cool breeze that gusted through the narrow tunnel passage, providing much needed relief after the exertion of climbing up and down all the stairs!

MORE CAVING ADVENTURES

Sarawak is home to Niah and Mulu Caves, both impressive limestone caves to visit in East Malaysia.

TIN-MINING TECHNIQUES

During Perak’s tin-mining boom in the 1800s, ores were extracted using different methods. Malay miners used the lampan (ground sluicing) technique where ditches were cut from the river, so the tin ores could be scooped out using running water. Chinese miners then introduced water wheels with wooden trays to sift ores from the soil. As the mining industry thrived, the tin dredges were introduced in 1913. Akin to a massive floating factory, each dredge cost a fortune to build. There were 123 dredges recorded in Malaysia in the 1940s and 60 dredges were located in Perak alone. To visit the country’s last tin dredge, head over to Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge No 5 (TT5) situated in Batu Gajah, a 35-minute drive from Ipoh.

Tasik Cermin | tanpanamanoob/shutterstock ©

A Cup of Tea

Gaharu Tea Valley’s famous plantations

A miniature and less chilly version of Cameron Highlands, the HOGA Gaharu Tea Valley is a 35-minute drive from Ipoh. The tea valley grows gaharu (agarwood) for premium-priced, caffeine-free teas. It’s a touristy area that emphasises the healing powers of gaharu and its role in Middle Eastern and Chinese cultures. There are attractions such as the Lovers’ Tree, intertwining centuries-old Merbau and Banyan trees and Hugging Park where embracing any of the painted agarwood trees is said to bring good luck. There’s also a viewing platform with a cafe serving teas and snacks. Getting from one attraction to another is convenient with a shuttle bus that runs every 15 minutes within HOGA. It’s easy to reach HOGA from Ipoh, but it’s tricky to find a taxi or ride-sharing vehicle to take you back to the city. It’s best to self-drive or to arrange a taxi to wait for you.

An Abandoned Castle

Walk Kellie’s Castle’s haunted corridors

Kellie’s Castle gives off a different vibe compared to the other attractions you’ve visited in the city. Built in 1910, this castle was commissioned by wealthy Scottish rubber plantation owner William Kellie Smith, whose sudden death left it abandoned. Featuring both Mughal-Moorish and Indo Gothic–Greco Roman architectural elements, artisans and labourers were sourced from India to build what would have been, if finished, one of the most magnificent residences in Malaysia. It has been restored to a reasonable condition, with a main hall furnished in early 20th-century style. Walk down the passageway to Kellie’s wine cellar where some speculate an underground tunnel served as an escape route to a Hindu temple 460m away. As curious as you may be, the tunnel has been closed off since 2003 for safety reasons. Climb the steps and take in views from the upper floors (note the secret passageway) and watch for ghosts, rumoured to haunt the corridors. Private transport is needed to visit the castle, an easy 20km drive south of Ipoh (parking RM2).

Taiping

LAID-BACK TOWN | COASTAL VILLAGE | RICH HISTORY

Taiping has much to offer with an abundance of history, nature and charm. The main town is home to many landmarks that represent ‘firsts’ for Malaysia, from the Taiping railway station to the Perak Museum. Take the chance to visit the Antong Coffee Factory, the country’s oldest coffee mill, for a taste of traditional local coffee, or enjoy a relaxing stroll around the gardens of Taman Tasik Taiping. For outdoor adventures, hop on the ATV and blaze through the off-road trek at the foothill of Bukit Larut, also known as Maxwell Hill. Once you’ve explored the town of Taiping, take a short drive to the coastal village of Kuala Sepetang where you can spot large fishing boats passing through the Perak river, or take a cruise to the mangrove forest and Kuala Sangga, a nearby Chinese settlement village. If you have time, visit the Bukit Merah Orang Utan Island, a conservation facility that houses endangered orangutans rescued from Borneo and Sumatra.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Muzium Perak

SIGHTS

2  All Saints Church

3  Taman Tasik Taipin

SLEEPING

4  Novotel Taiping

EATING

5  Larut Matang Hawker Center

SHOPPING

6  Antong Coffee Factory

TRANSPORT

7  Stesen KTM Taiping

GETTING AROUND

Taiping town is fairly walkable but most attractions require a short drive. It’s best to drive your own vehicle, especially if you’re journeying to Bukit Larut or Kuala Sepetang. You can rent a vehicle from agencies such as TRex and Ayra. The rates start from RM140 to RM160 per day. The second option is to utilise the ride-sharing service that is available around town. Alternatively, hop on the electric vehicle (EV) buses that operate daily and depart at 9am, 11.30am and 3pm from Taiping Zoo and Night Safari.

The Town of Firsts

Take in Taiping’s heritage landmarks

Taiping, Perak’s second-largest town, is steeped in history, so it’s no surprise that this has been the scene of many firsts. Begin your journey at Taiping railway station, Malaysia’s first railway line opened in 1885, and connects Taiping to Kuala Sepetang. Then, stop by Antong Coffee Factory, Malaysia’s oldest coffee mill, to catch a glimpse of the traditional coffee-making factory. Shelter from the midday sun at the Muzium Perak, the first museum in the country, with exhibits about natural history, state history and Malaysian customs. Step inside the Gothic-inspired All Saints Church, one of the country’s oldest Anglican churches, to see original stained-glass windows, a pipe organ (a rarity in Malaysia), carved pews and brass plaques commemorating benefactors and parishioners past. Spend your evening at Taman Tasik Taiping (Taiping Lake Garden), a scenic public park that was once a tin-mining site in the 1800s. Surrounded by century-old Rain Trees, this park owes its lush greenery to Taiping’s annual rainfall (thought to be the highest in Peninsular Malaysia). Next, drive past Taiping War Cemetery’s green spaces to see row upon row of headstones for the British, Australian and Indian troops killed during WWII. Complete the drive with a plate of mee goreng (fried noodles) and fresh popiah spring rolls from Larut Matang Hawker Center.

TOP TIP

Rainy afternoons are a norm in Taiping, where the average annual rainfall is almost twice that of Peninsular Malaysia. Always bring an umbrella, just in case.

Off-Road Adventure

Explore Bukit Larut’s forested trails

At the foothills of Bukit Larut, also known as Maxwell Hill, hop on an ATV and drive through the jungle and small streams. Opt for the Offroad Track A (45 minutes to an hour through the nature trail) or Offroad Track B (a one- or two-hour nature ride with a break at Burmese Pool). The adventure begins with a training session before your guide leads you through the paths and corners of the forest reserve. Expect steep inclines and mud as you navigate the trails. Washrooms are available to change and clean up.

LEGEND OF LARUT

Legend has it that the first miner in Perak was an elephant. When Malay chief Che Long Jaafar travelled from Lubok Merbau to Bukit Gantang, he brought his pet elephant, Larut. Larut went missing in the jungle, and when finally found it had silver smudges on its legs. Searching for the source of the smudges, Long Jaafar found tin ores in Kelian Pauh. He sought out experts in Penang and hired Chinese miners, and following the success of his tin-mining business, he decided to name the district after his elephant.

A Quaint Coastal Village

Fishing and mangroves in Kuala Sepetang

Just a 25-minute drive from Taiping, Kuala Sepetang is a fishing village located in a coastal mangrove area. Surrounded by wooden and modern houses, Sungai Sepetang cuts through the village where big fishing boats cruise through the murky waters. Port Weld Scenic Bridge is a great viewing point to see boats large and small gliding through Sungai Reba (Reba River). From the bridge, take a short walk to Kuala Sepetang Port Weld Eco for river cruises to the mangrove forest complete with fish-farm visits and eagle-feeding (RM25 per person, minimum of six people required). Pay an extra RM25 to visit Kuala Sangga, a remote Chinese settlement village off Kuala Sepetang, or add an extra activity of evening firefly-spotting.

Visit the Man of the Jungle

Walk on the orangutans’ island

Since 2000, the Bukit Merah Orang Utan Island Foundation has welcomed visitors to the off-site conservation facility that houses endangered orangutans rescued from Borneo and Sumatra. Meaning ‘man of the jungle’ in Malay, the orangutans sit on a 35-acre island in the middle of Bukit Merah lake where visitors take a 10-minute boat ride to the sanctuary.

After stepping off the boat, follow the guide through the 150m steel-fence tunnel to meet the furry residents, which resembles the concept of a reverse zoo where humans are in cages and orangutans roam free. The guide enchants visitors with fun facts about the rescued orangutans and a visit to the isolation unit where baby orangutans are kept before being released into the wild. On a good day, you’re likely to meet four or five orangutans swinging from tree to tree, enjoying a cool dip in the lake, or feasting on local fruits. The 37-year-old BJ, the alpha of the troop, is the island’s biggest and oldest orangutan, whose presence can be heard from a mile away thanks to his loud, resonating call.

Ticket and souvenir sales fund the operations and animal welfare, so every visit to the facility matters. Do note that this sanctuary can close for days or weeks when the lake’s water level recedes. When this happens, boat trips to the island are cancelled. Contact them in advance or monitor their social media page for updates. It’s a 35-minute drive from Taiping.

MALAYSIA’S FIRST RAILWAY

Kuala Sepetang was once named Port Weld after Sir Frederick Aloysius Weld, the Governor of the Straits Settlements who proposed the development of the roads and facilities in Taiping. These developments include the construction of the Taiping–Port Weld Railway Line, Malaysia’s first railway line, completed in 1885. If you’re wandering Kuala Sepetang on foot, you will chance upon an old Port Weld railway station signboard on your way to Port Weld Scenic Bridge. Today, many fisher folks reside in Kuala Sepetang, and it’s no surprise to find many seafood restaurants in the area. This place is also a gateway to Kuala Sangga, another remote fishing village that’s accessible through a boat ride.

Pangkor

ISLAND LIFE | WATERSPORTS | COLONIAL HISTORY

Pulau Pangkor (Pangkor Island) is Perak’s answer for a relaxing getaway. Whether you’re taking the short ferry ride from Lumut Jetty or Marina Island Jetty Complex, taking your mind off things is easy here as the swaying trees, lapping waves and pristine sandy beaches lull you into deep relaxation. Besides snorkelling, jet skiing and island-hopping, Pangkor has a colonial fortress that’s steeped in history and worth visiting. The remnants of Kota Belanda (Dutch Fort), which was built in 1670, still stand the test of time. The island also has many places of worship, representing the harmonious blend of culture and faiths that uniquely characterises the Malacca Straits. If you have time, visit the century-old Fu Lin Kong Temple, the floating mosque of Masjid Al-Badr and the seafront Sri Pathira Kaliamman Temple for a glimpse of its architectural splendour. It’s definitely an island you won’t want to miss.

SIGHTS

1  Fu Lin Kong

2  Masjid Al-Badr

3  Pantai Pasir Bogak

4  Pantai Teluk Nipah

5  Sri Pathira Kaliamman Temple

SLEEPING

6  AVI Pangkor Beach Resort

7  Pangkor Laut Resort

8  Pangkor Sandy Beach Resort

EATING

9  Daddy’s Cafe

10  Laksa Mak Unggai

See 11  Restoran Malar Curry House

See 11  Wang Wang Seafood Restaurant

SHOPPING

11  CK Duty Free

12  Coco Valley Duty Free Pangkor

13  Eng Seng Pangkor Food Industry & Trading

14  Hai Seng Hin Fish Factory

See 15  Pangkor Special Corner Duty Free

15  Pangkor Sun Duty Free

See 12  SP Duty Free Pangkor

GETTING AROUND

To reach Pulau Pangkor, take the ferry from Lumut Pangkor Ferry Jetty or Marina Island Jetty Complex. Since there are no ferry services that transport vehicles to the island, park your vehicles at the jetty and rent a car (RM90 per day) or motorcycle (RM40 per day) to get around. The pink public taxis are widely available throughout the island from Pangkor ferry terminal to hotels and tourist attractions. If you’re planning to get a public taxi for a half or full day, the average rate is RM80-RM100 for the first 2 hours and RM30 for each additional hour.

Splashes in the Sun

Snorkelling, banana boats and kayaking

There are plenty of watersport activities available in Pulau Pangkor. Head over to Pantai Pasir Bogak (Pasir Bogak Beach), 2.5km from the Pangkor Ferry Jetty, for a dose of fun. Banana-boat rides, jet skiing and kayaking are some of the things you can do here. Besides being an ideal place to catch the sunset, don’t be surprised to see hornbills foraging in the trees when you’re here. Pantai Teluk Nipah (Teluk Nipah Beach), 6.2km from the jetty, is famous for crystal-clear water and soft sands. You can find watersport operators along the beach and offering various snorkelling, banana-boat and jet-skiing packages. Spot tiny corals and sand crabs when you walk along the beach. You can also check out the nearby duty-free shops to find affordable chocolates and souvenirs.

TOP TIP

The busiest season in Pangkor is between September and November with rainfall cooling off temperatures from the hottest months (June to August). The weather in Pangkor is tropical year-round with short spurts of rain.

One Island to Another

Island-hopping around Pangkor

For the ultimate sunbathing experience, there’s nothing like a good island-hopping adventure. Whether you’re departing from Pantai Pasir Bogak or Pantai Teluk Nipah, head over to any tour operator to sign up for an island excursion. The speedboat usually passes by Nipah Bay, Monkey Bay, Coral Bay and Man Bay, as well as Mentagor Island and Coral Island. Some tours also combine island-hopping with a snorkelling trip to Pulau Giam (Giam Island) and coral-fish feeding. Depending on the packages, island-hopping can take anything from one to three hours.

Temples & Cultural Richness

Visit seafront places of worship

There are many unique places of worship to visit in Pangkor for a glimpse of the island’s cultural diversity. The century-old Fu Lin Kong Temple is a tranquil Taoist sanctuary built in the Chinese settlement of Sungai Pinang Besar. Walk up to the main temple for a picturesque view of the seafront village. Besides the stunningly ornate architecture and lush gardens, spot the staircase lined with the Great Wall of China miniature.

From the temple, take a 10-minute drive to Masjid Al-Badr, the floating mosque in Pangkor. Completed in 2016, it is also known as Masjid Seribu Selawat, the mosque of 1000 Islamic prayers, after the carvings of 1000 prayers around the beautifully decorated walls. Non-Muslim visitors are allowed to enter the mosque outside of prayer times and must be modestly dressed.

Seafront Hindu temples are rare in Malaysia, so seize the opportunity to visit Sri Pathira Kaliamman Temple, also known as Kali Amman Temple. Reopened in 2019, this temple honours the Hindu goddess of Kali Amman. Visit the temple during the Tamil month of Masi, between February and March, when devotees gather for the Masi Magam procession.

FISH SATAY

Ikan satay (fish satay) is one of the most popular snacks in Pulau Pangkor. It is traditionally made from thinly sliced fish, which is seasoned and sundried for hours then threaded onto skewers. Since the production of ikan satay is weather dependent, local factories are gradually replacing the sun-drying technique with dehydrators, which absorb the sauce before oven drying. Depending on the seasonality, factories use yellow goatfish, red snapper, or underused species to create this savoury and crispy snack. If you’re planning to try ikan satay, get it from Hai Seng Hin Fish Factory or Eng Seng Pangkor Food Industry & Trading. Both factories are located along Sungai Pinang Kecil and the average price is RM10 per packet.

WHERE TO EAT IN PANGKOR

Daddy’s Cafe $ Humble beachfront eatery with standard local and Western fares. Catch the sunset and spot hornbills while you’re here.

Wang Wang Seafood Restaurant $ Ideal for large groups, this Chinese restaurant is famous for salted egg-yolk squid and butter cream prawns.

Restoran Malar Curry House $ It’ll take awhile to get your orders, but this Chinese-Muslim restaurant serves tasty buttermilk garlic prawns and seafood fried rice.

Laksa Mak Unggai $ Malay eatery serving different variations of laksa. Their laksa kuah lemak is a must-try.

Beach, Pangkor | inigolai-Photography/shutterstock ©

A Piece of Colonial History

Explore the remnants of the Dutch Fort

A trip to Pulau Pangkor would be incomplete without delving into its historical treasures such as Kota Belanda (Dutch Fort) in the island’s south. Erected in 1670, the Dutch East India Company built the fortress to stash supplies of tin ores as an attempt to monopolise the tin trade in the region. What remains of this stronghold are the three main walls decorated with small, circular windows. The roof was not part of the restoration work done by the Museum Department as the original design is unknown.

DUTY-FREE SHOPS IN PANGKOR

CK Duty Free

Get an array of imported chocolates, fragrances and kitchenware at affordable prices.

Coco Valley Duty Free Pangkor

Fronted by massive signage; the chocolates, children’s toys and homewares are slightly cheaper than other duty-free shops.

SP Duty Free Pangkor

Browse a variety of fragrances as gifts or souvenirs. A decent shopping detour after a short drive from Pasir Bogak Beach.

Pangkor Sun Duty Free

A smaller selection of imported chocolates, fragrances and kitchenware. Ideal for last-minute purchases as it’s close to Pangkor Jetty.

Pangkor Special Corner Duty-Free

Aside from the usual sweet snacks, get local fish and cuttlefish-flavoured snacks as souvenirs.

Kuala Kangsar

ECO-TOURISM | ARCHAEOLOGY | RAINFOREST

Kuala Kangsar is known as the royal town of Perak for many reasons. When you’re exploring Bukit Chandan, two palaces represent the city’s past and present. Visit Istana Kenangan, a traditional Malay palace built in 1926. Then, take a short drive to Istana Iskandariah, the official residence of the Sultan of Perak, which is designed with modern Indo-Saracenic architecture with elements from West Asia. To experience the relaxing side of Kuala Kangsar, hop on a boat cruise along the Perak river, which is also the second longest river in Malaysia. From the boat, you can catch a glimpse of the palaces as well as the majestic Masjid Ubudiah, which is famous for its massive golden dome and Moorish design. If you’re looking for more historic landmarks, visit the century-old Victoria Bridge, known as one of Malaysia’s oldest and once used to transport tin ores during the mining boom in Perak.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah

SIGHTS

2  Istana Iskandariah

3  Masjid Ubudiah

4  Muzium Diraja Kuala Kangsar

SLEEPING

5  Hotel Casuarina @ Kuala Kangsar

6  Safar House & Cabin

7  Sayong Resort Kuala Kangsar

EATING

8  Arena Food Court

9  Teratak Warisan Kampung

SHOPPING

10  Labu Sayong Kraf Hanis

11  Win Kraf Labu Sayong

TRANSPORT

12  Jeti Dataran Sungai Perak Indah

GETTING AROUND

The best way to get around Kuala Kangsar is to drive your own vehicle. Agencies include Amo car rental and Halim car rental. The second option is getting a taxi or ride-sharing vehicle; the latter only operate within a 7km radius of the Kuala Kangsar railway station. If you’re visiting attractions beyond the town centre (like Victoria Bridge), ask the driver to wait for you. There are no local buses that operate around Kuala Kangsar, but there are intercity buses that travel between Ipoh and Kuala Kangsar.

Admire Kuala Kangsar’s Regal Significance

Royal palaces from past and present

To experience this royal town through the decades, start at Muzium Diraja Kuala Kangsar (the Royal Museum of Kuala Kangsar) for a glimpse of the past. This museum is housed in a traditional Malay palace, formerly known as Istana Kenangan, which was built by Malay craftsman Haji Suffian and his sons Zainal Abidin and Ismail in 1926. Take a moment to admire the architectural touches, from walls made of woven wickerwork to intricate traditional carvings. This building is also shaped like a sword’s scabbard, calling to mind the ceremonial regalia of the Perak royal family. While the museum is open to the public, the interior is largely empty with minimal information on display. Besides admiring the architecture, exploring the space gives you a rough idea about the size and locations of the throne room, main audience hall, chambers and sitting rooms. Completed in 1931, it became the temporary residence of Sultan Iskandar Shah, the 30th Sultan of Perak, before the royal family moved to Istana Iskandariah upon its completion in 1933. Closes on Monday.

Istana Iskandariah, a five-minute drive from Istana Kenangan, is the official residence of the Sultan of Perak. Sitting at the top of Bukit Chandan overlooking Sungai Perak, the Perak’s royal line goes way back to 1528. Visitors are not allowed to enter the palace grounds, but you can admire the Islamic Indo-Saracenic architecture, complete with elements of West Asian style, from the gates.

Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, a two-minute drive from Istana Iskandariah, is a stunning museum where you can learn about the life of the late Sultan Azlan Shah as well as the customs and traditions of the royal family of Perak. The museum is temporarily closed for conservation work and is set to reopen in 2025.

TOP TIP

If you visit the mosque, dress modestly as a sign of respect. Wear long sleeves and long pants or skirt. Women should wear a headscarf. Non-Muslim visitors may be restricted from entering the main prayer hall, so ask before entering certain areas.

THE KERIS MAKER

Crafting the keris – a traditional asymmetrical dagger – is one of the last surviving traditional trades in Malaysia, and craftspeople like Abdul Mazin Bin Abdul Jamil (Pak Mazin) keep it alive. Pak Mazin who runs his shop, Abdul Mazin Keris in Bukit Chandan, picked up the trade from his grandfather in the 1960s and made his first keris at the age of 12. The keris is mainly made from iron and requires repetitive hammering and folding after the metal is heated in the furnace. It is then plated with sulphur and polished with lime juice. Today, the keris is used as a revered ceremonial regalia and family heirloom. You can also find them in museums across Malaysia.

Breathtaking Moorish Architecture

Admire Masjid Ubudiah’s golden dome

In 1911, Masjid Diraja Ubudiah was built when Sultan Idris Murshidul Adzam Shah, the 28th Sultan of Perak, was recuperating from an illness in Port Dickson. Upon his recovery, he returned to Kuala Kangsar and instructed Colonial Huxley of the Public Works Department in Kuala Lumpur to prepare a design for the mosque. Anthony Benson Hubback, the same British government architect who built the Ipoh railway station and Town Hall, was appointed for the job. The Moorish-style mosque is crowned with a large golden dome and surrounded by four white minarets. It is open to non-worshippers outside of prayer times all week except Fridays. Visitors are advised to be modestly dressed (shorts and miniskirts are not allowed) and women must wear a headscarf.

Relaxing on the River

Enjoy the serene Sungai Perak

Stretching 400km in length, Sungai Perak, also known as the ‘River of Life’, is the second-longest river in Peninsular Malaysia after Sungai Pahang. Take a 15-minute boat ride from Jeti Dataran Sungai Perak Indah to view notable attractions along the river. The boatman will first turn to the west side of the river so you can catch a glimpse of Masjid Diraja Ubudiah and Istana Iskandariah, then back to the east where the boat cruises gently beneath the bridge while passing small towns along the riverbank. There’s no fixed departure schedule and the small motorboat usually departs when it is filled with enough passengers.

LABU SAYONG

Kuala Kangsar is known for producing labu sayong, a traditional water pitcher made from clay. Beautifully carved with Malay-style motifs, this pitcher is named after the Sayong village where the pottery-making tradition originated. Drinking water is traditionally stored in this gourd-shaped pitcher to keep it cool. It takes six hours to complete a labu sayong, which goes through several processes such as moulding, cleaning and decorating before firing at high temperatures. You can buy one from Win Kraf Labu Sayong on Jln Kampung or Labu Sayong Kraf Hanis in Kampung Sayong Lembah. A traditional labu sayong is usually priced between RM15 and RM25, depending on the size as well as the quality and intricacy of the artisanship.

WHERE TO EAT IN KUALA KANGSAR

Teratak Warisan Kampung $ Restaurant serving a wide variety of traditional Malay dishes like grilled fish, ulam and ayam goreng berempah.

Arena Food Court $ A short walk from the Perak river, this massive hawker centre houses numerous stalls serving local and Western cuisines.

Rumah Makan Rendang Tok Yo’ep $ Malay restaurant serving delicious rendang daging – beef stew with coconut milk. Best eaten with basmati rice.

Warung Telaga Kota Lama Kiri $ Malay eatery famous for its laksa telur sarang (spicy soup with nest-shaped omelette) and ais kacang (ice dessert).

Gerik

UNESCO ARCHAEOLOGY | RAINFOREST | TRADITIONAL VILLAGES

A road trip to Gerik, 50km north of Kuala Kangsar, promises a unique experience for adventure seekers, whether you’re travelling to the archaeological wonders of Lenggong or the millennia-old Belum-Temenggor rainforest. Lenggong’s contribution to the archaeological world is worthy of its UNESCO World Heritage Site inscription. Southeast Asia’s most complete human skeleton, prehistoric stone tools and pottery fragments were discovered in Lenggong. Besides that, it’s also home to a ‘Mini Amazon’ accessible through a boat ride from Kampung Beng. The Royal Belum State Park in the north of Bankjaran Titiwangsa is recognised for its conservation of biodiversity, with an impressive range of flourishing flora and fauna. Of the 26 species of rafflesias, the world’s largest flower, you can find four in Belum. It makes a splendid nature destination, where visitors are free to hike to the waterfall or stumble upon a mouse deer at a salt lick in the middle of the rainforest.

SIGHTS

1  Galeri Arkeologi Lembah Lenggon

2  Kampung Beng

3  Royal Belum State Park

4  Sungai Kooi Waterfall

5  Sungai Papan Saltlick

6  Tasik Chenderoh

7  Tasik Raban

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

8  Gua Asar

See 8  Gua Kajang

SLEEPING

9  Belum Rainforest Resort

10  Lenggong 360 Guesthouse

11  Rumah Tiang 16

12  Sukasuka Lake Retreat

TRANSPORT

13  Pulau Banding Jetty

Royal Belum State Park | shaifulzamri/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

It’s best to drive yourself in Gerik, and it’s best to rent a vehicle from the nearest town, Kuala Kangsar. Altarnatively, you can take the Perak Transit Stage Bus from Terminal Bus Kuala Kangsar and head to Stesen Bus Lenggong (Route 99) to visit Lenggong or Stesen Bas Gerik (Route 99A) to reach Belum-Temenggor. The bus schedule is available on the Perak Transit website. Once you arrive in Lenggong or Gerik, arrange a private transfer with your homestay or resort. Ride-sharing service is limited in both places, but you can find taxis at bus stations. Negotiate your taxi fare before you depart.

TOP TIP

Remote areas in Gerik may have limited ATMs for cash withdrawals. It’s advisable to withdraw sufficient cash in the town area before heading to a remote location.

Archaeological Heritage

The hidden caves of Lenggong

Lenggong has 20 caves steeped in archaeological wonders, but only two at the foothills of Bukit Kepala Gajah are open to visitors. Gua Kajang, a limestone cave with a 35m-long tunnel, is a significant site where evidence of prehistoric human life such as pottery fragments and stone tools have been uncovered. Gua Asar, connected through a boardwalk from Gua Kajang, is replete with unique stalactites hanging from the ceiling and a giant tree that bends 45 degrees from the entrance to the sky.

Since both caves have limited information displays, hire a guide to make the most of your visit. Contact Rumah Tiang 16 homestay owner, Mr Nasir Jalaludin (+60193368807) who offers guided cave and cultural tours for his guests, or local guide Ms Noorhashimah Zainal Abidin (+60162518099) for visits to Kampong Gelok caves. Cave entrances are usually locked for public safety and visitors need permission from Lenggong district council to venture on their own.

The Mini Amazon

Cruise lakes and floating gardens

Kampung Beng is a scenic Malay village situated along Sungai Perak, a 20-minute drive from Lenggong town. This is the gateway to the area known as Malaysia’s ‘Mini Amazon’ by locals who draw comparisons to the remoteness of the Amazon river. Hop on a speedboat and cruise along the river until you reach the tree-covered Sadang canal connecting to the lakes Tasik Chenderoh and Tasik Raban. When the waters are calm, admire the reflections of the mountainous horizon before reaching the floating garden of Tasik Teratai (Lotus Lake) near Kampung Jenalik Hilir.

The best way to access the Mini Amazon is with a local boatman. Mr Bohoiiri Mohd Nizar (+60134786715) and Mr Roslan Abdul Rahman (+60195126404) offer a two-hour cruise from Kampung Beng. Lenggong 360 Guesthouse also offers excursions to Tasik Raban.

MALAYSIA’S FIRST ARCHAEOLOGIST

As a historian and Malaysia’s first archaeologist, Emeritus Professor Dr Siti Zuraina binti Abdul Majid has led some of the country’s most significant archaeological discoveries. In 1991, she and her team discovered Perak Man, Southeast Asia’s oldest and most complete human skeleton, as well as the 74,000-year-old Paleolithic stone tool site in Kota Tampan. Her book, The Perak Man and Other Prehistoric Skeletons of Malaysia is a must-read for anyone interested in the discovery of human skeletons from local excavation sites. Professor Zuraina also obtained the UNESCO inscriptions for Melaka and George Town as the historic cities of Selat Melaka in 2008, and for Lenggong Valley as a World Heritage Site in 2012.

The Man from Perak’s Past

Southeast Asia’s oldest human skeleton

Southeast Asia’s oldest and most complete human skeleton – 11,000 years old – was discovered at Gua Gunung Runtuh in 1991. The Perak Man’s cave is today only open for researchers, but visitors can view a replica of the skeletal remains and other artefacts at Galeri Arkeologi Lembah Lenggong.

Chasing Waterfalls

Hike to Sungai Kooi Waterfall

A visit to Royal Belum State Park isn’t complete without a hiking adventure to Sungai Kooi waterfall, the largest in the Belum-Temenggor rainforest. Since a guide is needed to enter the state park, the arrangement is usually made through the resort or a tour operator.

The journey begins with a scenic boat ride across Temenggor Lake to the hike’s starting point. Wear proper footwear for this moderately challenging trail amid massive boulders, thick undergrowth and flowing rivers. You’ll know when the 52m waterfall is near by the roaring cascade through the dense rainforest. Enjoy the cool mists from the waterfall and a refreshing dip in the natural pool.

BELUM-TEMENGGOR FUN FACTS

Belum-Temenggor is one of the most significant rainforests in Malaysia. Older than the Amazon and Congo, the 130-million-year-old Belum-Temenggor consists of the Royal Belum State Park (close to the Thai border to the north) and Lower Belum on the south, which is mainly occupied by the Temenggor Lake. Spanning 2900 sq km, this vast area is said to be four times the size of Singapore. To access the park, you need a nature guide and permit, but these are taken care of when you sign up for a nature experience through the resort and houseboats. Home to the endangered Malaysian tiger, Asian elephants and the Malayan sun bear, Belum-Temenggor was shortlisted as a candidate UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019.

Jahai fisher | Md Aziman/shutterstock ©

Salt of Life

Meet the wildlife of Sungai Papan

The Sungai Papan Saltlick is one of the main areas where the wildlife of Royal Belum State Park can be seen, as the animals come to lick the natural dry mineral deposits for nutrients. You can reach the spot by taking a boat to the Sungai Papan jetty and crossing the 100m wooden suspension bridge to begin another moderately challenging hike.

Watch your step as you navigate through climbing vines and slippery paths. Be aware that leeches are plentiful when the forest floors are moist, but the guide can pluck leaves of senduduk bulu shrub, a natural remedy to stop the bleeding from leech bites. At the salt lick, you may encounter insects, deer and even Asian elephants. Although the sightings of Malayan tigers are rare, stay close to your guide as tigers hunt for prey around the salt lick area.

The First People

Visit the indigenous people of Jahai

Living in traditional wooden huts along the Sungai Kejar’s banks, the Jahai tribe is a Malaysian indigenous group that can be visited in a two-hour boat trip from Pulau Banding jetty. Before you explore the village, your guide will meet the tribal chief as a form of respect. Visitors are welcome to bring gifts such as cooking ingredients or sweets for the kids. While visiting the Jahai people you’ll get to know their customs and traditions, and you might even learn how to use a blowpipe, their primary hunting instrument. This visit is usually arranged through resorts or houseboats, as there are no scheduled boat rides to the village.

Cameron Highlands

HIGHLAND CLIMATE | TEA PLANTATIONS | ROAD TRIPS

The Cameron Highlands may be located in Pahang, but travellers heading to Perak can take advantage of the proximity to the highland retreat, which is about a 2½-hour drive from Ipoh. You know you’ve arrived when there’s a gradual shift to cooler temperatures, and the scenery transforms into seas of greenery. Visiting the tea plantations is the perfect starting point for your road trip, and you can enjoy the rolling landscape with hot teas and freshly baked scones. Strawberry picking is another popular activity in the highlands and the local farms are flourishing with red and white strawberries. If you’re pressed for time, these tasty treats are also available in local markets, alongside other fresh fruit and veg. The Highlands is also a good spot for adventure-seekers, who will enjoy morning jaunts exploring the Mossy Forest and the watchtower’s picturesque views of Highlands’ landscape amid the clouds.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  BOH Sungai Palas Tea Centre

SIGHTS

2  Big Red Strawberry Farm

3  Cameron Valley Tea House 1

4  Cameron Valley Tea House 2

5  Mossy Forest

6  Raaju’s Hill Strawberry Farm

7  Time Tunnel Strawberry Farm

8  Tringkap Bee Farm

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

9  Thrill Adventures Travel & Tours

SLEEPING

10  Avillion Cameron Highlands

11  Century Pines Resort

12  Jim Thompson Cottage

13  Smokehouse Hotel

14  Strawberry Park Resort

SHOPPING

15  Pasar Malam Cameron Highlands

GETTING AROUND

The best way to get around Cameron Highlands is to self-drive because of the long distances between attractions. There are only a handful of car rental agencies in the highlands, so it’s best to rent a vehicle from the major towns like Ipoh and depart from there. Some tour agencies provide day tours to the Cameron Highlands from Perak or Kuala Lumpur. There are no local buses that operate around the Highlands, there’s very little coverage from ride-sharing apps, and taxis are known to charge exorbitant fees (negotiate your fares well, if you must).

Sipping a Highlands Brew

The Highlands’ famous teahouses

After driving past acres of tea plantations blanketing the Cameron Highlands slopes, pull a stop at the local tea houses serving freshly brewed teas straight from the plantations. The highland is manned by two tea brands: BOH and Cameron Valley, each backed with colonial stories as early as the 1950s.

BOH Sungai Palas Tea Centre is a glasshouse with a popular viewing deck that overlooks the lush tea plantation. The cafe serves standard tea selections as well as desserts and cakes. You can also join a free visit to the tea factory to learn more about the tea processing methods. Closed on Mondays.

Cameron Valley has three imaginatively named teahouses: Cameron Valley Tea House 1 and Cameron Valley Tea House 2 in Tanah Rata, and Cameron Valley Tea House 3 in Kuala Terla. Tea House 2 is the most spacious and offers a variety of tea selections that go well with strawberry scones and cheesecakes. You can walk into the surrounding tea plantation for RM4 (free for kids) or take a buggy ride for RM15.

Both tea brands have gift shops to buy unique teas flavoured with aromas like hibiscus or Cameron Valley durian.

TOP TIP

The Cameron Highlands is a popular family destination: expect massive traffic congestion on weekends and public holidays. If you can, go on weekdays instead.

Red Rubies

Pick fresh strawberries from a local farm

Vast and verdant, the Cameron Highlands is replete with strawberry farms where visitors can stop to pick their own. In Brinchang, Time Tunnel Strawberry Farm charges RM30 for 500g of berries plucked by your own hands. A short drive will lead you to Raaju’s Hill Strawberry Farm, a spacious alternative that charges RM40 for 500g of berries, or Big Red Strawberry Farm which charges RM60 for 1kg of berries. The Tringkap Bee Farm also has a small farm that grows white Japanese strawberries (RM25 for 100g), which taste almost pear-like. If berry picking sounds like hard work, strawberries are widely sold in the local market. Strawberry picking is an especially popular activity during school holidays. Expect some farms to close temporarily and reopen once more strawberries are available for picking.

Monkey cups, Mossy Forest | pendakisolo/shutterstock ©

THE INDIGENOUS HIGHLANDERS

There are 19 Orang Asli (indigenous) groups in Peninsular Malaysia. One of them, the Semai tribe, lives in the mountainous and forested areas of the Cameron Highlands. They are one of the tribes belonging to the Senoi, the largest indigenous ethnic group that also includes other tribes like the Mah Meri, Jah Hut, Semaq Beri and Cheq Wong. The Semai are known for their deep knowledge of traditional medicine and often source remedies from the surrounding jungle. They also cultivate crops for their livelihood and you might find them selling fruits and vegetables in the local markets around the Cameron Highlands. Besides Pahang, the Semai community also resides in the forested area of Perak.

The Cloud Forest

A walk through mist and moss

Mossy Forest, a dense area of tangled, moss-choked woods near Brinchang, is the most atmospheric nature destination in the Highlands. The best time to explore the mossy forest along the 200m jungle boardwalk is in the morning. The boardwalk snakes from the forest entrance through the verdant trees and rolling mists. Continue walking until you see a watchtower which you can climb to admire views of the lush valleys. Take care not to step on the moss to allow it to thrive.

Some tours like Thrill Adventures Travel & Tours bring hikers to adventurous trails that run deeper into the forest and towards the peak of Mount Irau, 2110m above sea level. The trail takes three to four hours each way, navigating through rock slopes, muddy terrains and large overgrown roots. Hikers also need to climb up and down steel ladders, so proper footwear is recommended. A climbing permit is also required, and the information from the Pahang Forestry Department is mostly available in Malay – it’s best to join a tour so the permits are sorted out for you.

THE DISAPPEARANCE OF JIM THOMPSON

In March 1967, American businessman Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared from his afternoon walk down Jln Kamunting in the Cameron Highlands. He was a prominent tycoon in Thailand’s silk industry in the 1950s, and his disappearance prompted a large-scale search that lasted for 11 days. The authorities found no clues and the Thai court declared him dead in absentia in 1974. Some say he was murdered or got lost and died in the forest. Today, the vacation home he rented on Jln Kamunting before his disappearance has been converted into a hotel known as Jim Thompson Cottage. In Thailand, the Jim Thompson silk business continues to thrive, and his former residence in Bangkok is now a museum.

Pasar Malam Cameron Highlands | Eyjan/shutterstock ©

A Lively Night Market

Shop for midnight snacks

Every Friday and Saturday evenings (4pm to 10pm), Pasar Malam Cameron Highlands, also known as the Golden Hills Night Market, occupies the streets of Jln Sungai Ruil. Locals brave the weekend crowd to sate their appetites with steamed sweet potatoes, grilled lamb, chicken wings, nasi tomato, satay and more. You can also find fresh produce, souvenirs and toys in the market.

Refreshing Cascade

Soak your feet in a waterfall

Lata Iskandar is a small, picturesque waterfall 20km south of Ringlet that makes a thoroughly refreshing stop if you’re driving up to the Cameron Highlands. This cascade tumbling over granite boulders is popular with paddling families and picnickers. Banana, durian and snack stalls abound nearby.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Ipoh

Sekeping Kong Heng $ Refurbished neoclassical hotel within walking distance from Ipoh old town. The building used to be a hostel for theatre performers in the 1950s.

Abby by the River $ This branch of the budget chain Abby is a reasonable choice, with cramped dorms and colourful but rather musty private rooms with bathrooms and TVs.

M Boutique Ipoh $$ An urban eclectic boutique hotel with English cottage–themed rooms. It also has a self-service gym and laundry.

Sarang Paloh Heritage Stay $$ Strategically located in Ipoh old town, this hotel has several room types that are ideal for couples and families.

Ipoh Bali Hotel $$$ A well-decorated boutique hotel with Bali-themed rooms. Treat yourself to a relaxing massage or reflexology at their in-house spa.

Taiping

Reserve The Cozytainer $ Industrial-style hotel with shipping containers turned into comfortable rooms. Light sleepers should know that the rooms are not soundproof.

Hotel Grand Baron $ Cosy hotel near Taiping Lake Gardens and Taiping Zoo. Each room has a private balcony that overlooks the lush greenery.

Novotel Taiping $$ Modern city hotel with large swimming pool and affordable parking. Easy access to Taiping Mall and one of the very few hotels with business facilities.

Pangkor

AVI Pangkor Beach Resort $$ Island-themed resort within walking distance of the sandy Pasir Bogak beach. Each room has modern amenities and a private balcony.

Pangkor Sandy Beach Resort $$ Midrange resort with easy access to the beach. Ideal for travellers who enjoy snorkelling, windsurfing, jet skiing and sailing.

Pangkor Laut Resort $$$ Luxury beach resort famous for its stylish villas on stilts. Specially crafted experiences include sunset cruises, island excursions and spa sessions.

Kuala Kangsar

Safar House & Cabin $ No-frills container-style homestay with basic amenities and clean communal areas.

Sayong Resort Kuala Kangsar $ Budget hotel that is situated by the banks of the Perak River and within a five-minute walk from the night market.

Hotel Casuarina @ Kuala Kangsar $$ An English-inspired hotel with a view of the Perak River. Spacious rooms equipped with modern amenities.

Gerik

Sukasuka Lake Retreat $ Charming homestay run by friendly hosts. Guests are welcome to enjoy rounds of kayaking, boating and fishing in Tasik Chenderoh.

Rumah Tiang 16 $$ Traditional Malay homestay offering specially curated stays with guided tours, authentic kampung meals and UNESCO site visits.

Belum Rainforest Resort $$$ Top-rated nature resort in the Belum-Temenggor rainforest. Activities include bamboo rafting, kayaking, leisure fishing and rafflesia spotting.

Cameron Highlands

Century Pines Resort $$ A midrange highland hotel with spacious and clean rooms. It has a lounge, fitness centre, spa and in-house cafe.

Avillion Cameron Highlands $$ A modern hotel with well-designed service suites ideal for families and large groups. Within a short drive from the famous tea plantations.

Strawberry Park Resort $$ Each room has a private balcony where you can admire the mountain ranges. Families can book a stay in the Fresno Family Suite with an adorable tepee.

Smokehouse Hotel $$$ English Tudor–style building within easy access to Brinchang Night Market. The in-house restaurant, Ye Olde Smokehouse, has been running since 1937.

Penang

TEMPLES, CULTURE, FOOD, FESTIVALS & HIDDEN NATURE

An island state that feels like a city, with an intoxicating mix of century-old culture, cutting-edge modernity, incredible festivals and top-notch creativity

Food vendor, George Town | Abdul Razak Latif/Shutterstock ©

It’s hard to find a place that mixes, shakes and processes Eastern cultures into a more intoxicating ancient-meets-modern vibe than Penang. The state is split both geographically and administratively into two separate chunks: 293-sq-km Pulau Pinang (Penang Island), floating in Selat Melaka (Strait of Melaka), and Seberang Perai, a squarish 760-sq-km slice of mainland Peninsular Malaysia. Everyone starts on the first and primarily focuses on cosmopolitan George Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008 – an exceptional place where prayers go up in the sky in three main languages and several dialects, gods are polyglots (and often polymaths), and trishaws still pedal past time-worn shophouses. The marks of its colonial past (Penang became the first British settlement in Southeast Asia in 1786) are all over the place, yet increasingly contend space with the skyscrapers, malls and reclaimed coastal areas that have come as the inevitable dark side of development.

Peter Loud/Shutterstock ©

But remember that Penang is an island, not a (George) town. If one can pull away, the state is dotted with palm-fringed beaches and fishing villages, a large swath of mountainous jungle (a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2021) and hills peppered with farms growing nutmeg and durian. On the other side of the two Penang bridges (among the longest in Asia), Seberang Perai, the ugly duckling of local tourism, has offbeat attractions to impress the few travellers who dare explore.

THE MAIN AREAS

GEORGE TOWN

Time-worn clanhouses, street food and art.

BATU FERRINGHI & TELUK BAHANG

Laid-back resorts and coastal hikes.

BALIK PULAU & SOUTHERN COAST

Traditional villages, beaches and paddies.

SEBERANG PERAI

Offbeat towns, great food, beautiful nature.

Find Your Way

Penang is split between an island, Pulau Pinang, and a strip of land on the peninsula, Seberang Perai. The first is mainly hilly and densely populated, while the latter is flatter and more sedate. Two bridges and a ferry service connect them.

Plan Your Time

As it takes about an hour to reach Penang’s furthest corners from George Town, use it as a base to hop between temples, malls, sky bars, beaches and jungles.

Kek Lok Si | Pelikh Alexey/Shutterstock ©

Pressed for Time

Make the best of a day in George Town, with an afternoon visit to Kek Lok Si temple, sunset by the Clan Jetties and dinner in town. Devote the second day (half of it if taking the funicular) to Penang Hill, the Botanical Gardens and the Buddhist temples of Pulau Tikus. Finally, rent wheels and explore Balik Pulau.

A Weeklong Stay

Spend two days in George Town for clanhouses, coffee, street art, Buddhist temples and a hike to Penang Hill. End with Batu Ferringhi. Cross the bridge for breakfast and a market tour in Bukit Mertajam. Check out the Minor Basilica of St Anne and Cherok Tok Kun. Spend the remaining time exploring Balik Pulau and the Southern Coast.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

JANUARY TO FEBRUARY

Hindu festival Thaipusam is held; shortly after, the Hokkien New Year fires up the city.

JULY

World Heritage Site Day (7 July) celebrates George Town’s inscription. The George Town Festival follows.

SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER

Penang’s Hungry Ghost Festival celebrations, followed by nine days of the Nine Emperor Gods’ Festival.

NOVEMBER TO DECEMBER

The George Town Literary Festival and Butterworth Fringe Festival bring arts and culture.

George Town

PICTURESQUE HERITAGE TOWN | ARTS & CULTURE | FESTIVALS

The smoke of joss sticks wafts from the altars of a Chinese temple while a loudspeaker crackles a background of Islamic prayer from a tall minaret, and Hindu devotees prepare rows of flower garlands to honour their gods. All around the UNESCO World Heritage Zone, well-preserved colonial architecture rubs corners with the breezy five-foot ways fronting Sino-Portuguese shophouses. To top it off, add some of the best food in Southeast Asia and a rising skyline of shimmering skyscrapers that challenge that precious heritage, shooting for a chance to carve the future. You can’t be anywhere else but the irresistible urban cocktail that is George Town, Penang’s (and possibly northern Malaysia’s) most cosmopolitan city. This movie-set-like mix of Chinese temples in Little India, mosques in Chinatown and Western-style shopping complexes gleaming high above British Raj–era architecture will reward those who set out to explore.

GETTING AROUND

George Town is compact and a pleasure to walk. Don’t rent a car and if you have one park it somewhere safe, as Penang has a severe traffic issue. Long gridlocks are a problem at rush hour. Grab is widely available, but they can’t fly over kilometre-long jams. If you can navigate busy lanes and drivers who only respect their right of way, renting a scooter on Lr Chulia is the most time-effective way to move around the city. The Rapid Penang bus system is also increasingly reliable.

Heritage Stays in Bygone Mansions

Experience the homes of former millionaires

The tycoons of George Town past built their opulent mansions directly in town to show their wealth and control their businesses, and you can start the George Town heritage experience by spending at least one night in one of these homes converted to boutique hotels. The regal Blue Mansion, built by Hakka merchant-trader Cheong Fatt Tze for his seventh wife, dates back to the 1800s, and its blue hue comes from an indigo-based limewash. If you can’t afford to stay, take a guided tour (daily at 11am and 2pm) or self-guided audio tour in English, or dine under hanging lanterns at the annexed Indigo Restaurant. The series of boutique hotels curated by architect Chris Ong are also beyond atmospheric and include the stunning Seven Terraces, renovated from a row of seven shophouses; Muntri Mews, once a cattle stable; and the sumptuous Jawi Peranakan Mansion on Jln Hutton, housed in a building mixing British colonial elements and Mughal-era Islamic motifs. East Indies Mansion was the former residence of Koh Lay Huan (a founding father of Penang who predates even the controversial Francis Light) and offers painstakingly restored accommodation in the heart of Little India.

TOP TIP

George Town gets busiest with domestic tourists on weekends and public holidays. Visit during weekdays when fewer visitors mean more opportunities for street photography and easier interaction with locals.

Go on a Food Safari

Eat until you drop

Praised as one of the best places to eat in Asia, Penang’s food is rich and varied thanks to the island’s multiethnic history. With Malay, Indian and Chinese culinary cultures blending with former British colonial and Eurasian tastes, plus a smattering of cuisines imported by today’s migrant workers from Indonesia, South Asia and Myanmar, the island truly offers a complex food experience. But it all starts at the street level: eating in Penang is an informal affair, and the best food here is not necessarily found in upmarket restaurants – even though the island has attractive fine dining options at a fraction of Western prices.

Penang street food is generally safe to eat, and the suggestion is to follow your nose and instinct and try what looks inviting. If you can tolerate motorbikes and cars zipping next to your table, the busy Chulia Street Hawker Food at the end of Jln Carnarvon, right on the doorstep of most tourist accommodations, is an easy place to start. For more sedate surroundings, the Jetty Food Court, a covered hawker centre along Pengkalan Weld, offers a good range of local and Western food in a quiet ambience. Stalwart Red Garden Food Paradise in Lr Leith is tourist-friendly and has grilled seafood. For the authentic local experience, leave George Town and venture to untouristed Jelutong, where Jln Perak and Jln Trengganu pack numerous hawker choices, among which Medan Selera Taman Free School is highly recommended. If you love what you eat, cooking classes with locals like laksa expert Nazlina Hussin (nazlinaspicestation.com) and Cooking With Chef Samuel (cookingwithchefsamuel.com) start with wet market tours and ingredient shopping, and are great fun to spend half a day getting your hands dirty with the basics of the science that is Penang food.

BEST HAWKER CENTRES IN GEORGE TOWN

Lebuh Kimberley Food Night Market

The central section of this lane comes alive on evenings with corner kopitiam and street carts spilling onto the kerb.

New Lane Hawker Centre

Evening option tucked next to the Sunway Hotel, where hawker carts laden with Chinese dishes ply their trade.

New World Park Food City

Lunch and dinner at this large, covered food court with dozens of modernised stalls lined on the sides of a vast central dining area.

Cecil Street Market Hawker Centre

Authentic market stalls serving breakfast and lunch, famous for noodle dishes muar chee, char kway teow and curry mee.

Presgrave Street Corner

Locals flock to the famous Hokkien mee vendor and open-air hawkers serving everything from rice dishes to fritters and desserts.

Pinang Peranakan Mansion | Fotos593/Shutterstock ©

Have a Taste of Peranakan Culture

Step into the Peranakan Mansion

The mint-green, pompous Pinang Peranakan Mansion is one of George Town’s best-renovated historical buildings and an important place to gain insight into the life of the Peranakans, or Baba-Nyonya, browsing the collection of more than 1000 original artefacts amassed by Baba property developer, collector and restaurateur Peter Soon.

Originating in Southeast Asia’s main Straits Sea settlements like Penang, Melaka and Singapore, the Peranakan are the result of the intermarrying of Malaya’s first Chinese settlers with local Malay women, with added cultural traits and quirks inherited from the ways of the British colonisers – when in the mansion, observe how European furnishings such as Scottish cast iron works mix with Stoke-On-Trent ceramic floor tiles decorated with traditional Chinese elements.

The adjacent ancestral hall and Chung Keng Kwi Temple honour the Hakka Chinese migrant who built this house in the 1890s. Admission to all is included with the ticket price, which also grants access to invaluable 45-minute free tours in English or Mandarin (the first at 10am and the last at 3.30pm) to grasp the subtleties of the Peranakan lifestyle.

THE LAST TRISHAWS

Introduced to Penang around 1935, the trishaws (lang-chhia or beca in Hokkien and Malay) that still dot the streets of George Town are disappearing fast. They rely on tourists, and COVID-19 and a slow return of tourism were challenging, so to give them business is absolute gold. Choo Yew Choon makes the last trishaws in George Town from 19 Jln Pintal Tali. But the future is uncertain for this traditional craft.

SIGHTS

1  Church of the Assumption

2  City Hall

3  Esplanade Sea Wall

4  Fort Cornwallis

5  High Court

6  House of Yeap Chor Ee

7  Padang Kota Lama

8  Penang Diocesan Museum

9  Queen Victoria Memorial Clock Tower

10  Town Hall

SLEEPING

11  The 80s Guesthouse

12  Ren i Tang

13  Seven Terraces

EATING

14  Kebaya Dining Room

15  Vegan Falafel

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

16  Antarabangsa Enterprise

17  Foxhole 24

ENTERTAINMENT

18  Soundmaker Studio

Explore a Penang Clanhouse

Learn about Chinese immigrant history

Penang received most of its Chinese population between the mid-1800s and mid-1900s when the kongsi (clanhouse) constituted a safe haven for the new migrants arriving in their new tropical home. The Kongsi gave a sense of security, acting as an ‘embassy’ and providing lodging and employment. The sceptical Brits preferred to call these clans ‘secret societies’ – greed for power set them against each other during the Penang Riots of 1867, when the Hai San and Ghee Hin kongsi clashed, marking the latter’s decline.

Today, Penang conserves one of the highest concentrations of kongsi outside China. Khoo Kongsi is the grandest, with intricate carvings depicting scenes from Chinese epics all over its roof, pillars and inner walls. Also, note two statues of colonial-era Indian Sikh guardians posing before the main staircase. Renovation works ended in 2015, and spectacular Cheah Kongsi is now fronted by a grassy lawn along Lr Pantai, even though the official entrance (with ticket) is on Lr Armenian. Hokkien kongsi Lim Kongsi was set up in 1860 and known as Kew Long Tong (Hall of Nine Dragons). It’s the only Penang clanhouse honouring a female patron deity. The Han Jiang Ancestral Temple in Lr Chulia belongs to the Penang Teochew Association, dates back to 1870, and is sheltered by two tall doors featuring stunning drawings of Divine Door Guardians. The large hall inside displays the clan’s history and culture.

ROOFTOP VIEWS IN GEORGE TOWN

The TOP at KOMTAR

Stand at 248.7m on one of Asia’s tallest skywalks, watching George Town lie below like a miniature city amid dwarfing hills.

Gravity Rooftop Bar

Perched on the 24th floor of G Hotel Kelawai, Gravity faces Penang Hill on one side and the coast on the other.

Three-Sixty Revolving Restaurant & Sky Bar

The top of Bayview Hotel boasts unobstructed views over George Town’s coastline and a restaurant that may make you dizzy.

Sphere Rooftop Bar

Dark city views at this space-themed, luminescent, moon-blue neon-lit rooftop bar on top of Chulia Mansion Hotel.

DSRT Sky Room

This 31-storey high bar atop the Wembley Hotel has an indoor lounge and outdoor terrace offering ace city views.

Walk on the Water

Visit the clan jetties

When the British colonisers decided to demand high land tax, groups of Chinese migrants refused to pay and built their homes on stilts. Life (and plumbing) still depends on Penang’s strong tides. The largest is Chew Jetty, consisting of 75 elevated houses, some Chinese temples and way too many tourist facilities, all linked by elevated boardwalks above the sea. It’s a great place for photographers to shoot the docked fishing boats at the golden hour, but it gets heavily trafficked at all other times. Next to it is Tan Jetty, a much longer and skinnier wooden walkway with perfect views of the sea and George Town’s skyline. It closes before 9pm, as locals set a curfew against noisy visitors. Further to the southwest are even less touristy jetties, namely Lee Jetty, New Jetty and Yeoh Jetty.

EATING IN GEORGE TOWN: OUR PERANAKAN FOOD PICKS

Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery $$ One of only two Penang owners of a Michelin star serves authentic Nyonya dishes.

Bibik’s Kitchen Nyonya Cuisine $$ Nyonya cuisine that’s moderately less spicy than elsewhere. An excellent introduction to Peranakan flavours.

Jawi House $$ Try the Karim family’s Punjabi-Jawi Peranakan spin on secret family recipes spruced up with spices from a local herb garden.

Kebaya Dining Room $$$ Every detail is perfect at this Peranakan-themed fine-dining sala curated by heritage architect Chris Ong.

Tan Jetty | Only Fabrizio/Shutterstock ©

Explore Multifaceted Little India

Gold, sarees and dosa

Thumping with Bollywood beats and flavoured with scents of nutmeg, clove and turmeric, Penang’s Little India occupies a large chunk of George Town’s UNESCO Heritage Core, bordering the Esplanade on one side and Lr Pantai on the other. It’s one of the most traditional districts. On the corner between Lr Chulia and Lg King is the Sri Arulmigu Sri Maha Mariamman temple; built in 1833, it is the oldest Hindu shrine in Penang, its divinity-studded gopuram (tower) a focal point for the local Indian community, which flocks to this area also to shop, hunt for spices and eat.

Along Lr Pasar, or Market Street, are some of George Town’s oldest goldsmiths, and that’s also where you’ll find small shops selling all sorts of tourist tat. Try to look around and catch the hidden details: Little India is one of the last places to see trishaw peddlers selling loaves of Benggali bread in Penang. On the corner of Lr King and Lr Chulia is septuagenarian Haja Mohiddin of Osm Mohd Shariff, an artisan making Muslim skullcaps in a shop that has been operating for over 80 years. The nearby Nagore Dargha Sheriff shrine, built in the early 1800s and dedicated to 13th-century Indian saint Syed Shahul Hamid, also celebrates Penang’s South Indian Muslim legacy – called ‘chuliers’ by the British colonisers, they gave the name to today’s tourist artery Lr Chulia.

SPEAKEASY BARS IN GEORGE TOWN

George Town is the Malaysian city with the highest hidden bar concentration. It all started with Magazine 63, which opened in the mid-2010s and is still strong thanks to its China-Dynasty concept, a mezzanine stage for DJs and creative cocktails served in old porcelain jars. Today, Manchu Bar follows suit – a secret door behind a curtain hides a killer Qing Dinasty–themed setup whose real perk is drinking to live Chinese Opera performances. Backdoor Bodega, opened in 2016 behind The Swagger clothing shop on Jln Gurdwara, deviates from retro decor and serves local twists (think pandan and nutmeg) on popular cocktails they don’t sell – you buy cocktail-shaped pins that ‘earn you one’.

DRINKING IN GEORGE TOWN: OUR PICKS

Antarabangsa Enterprise Sit on a plastic stool among locals, enjoying this down-and-dirty George Town street drinking den.

Good Friends Club Mingle with an artsy crowd and sip localised cocktails like ‘Lao Hao Peng,’ made with nutmeg tincture.

Farquhar’s Bar Classy colonial-chic ambience and mean cocktails inside the historical Eastern & Oriental Hotel’s heritage wing.

Foxhole 24 Rebranded from former Mish Mash but still delivering the best whisky, malts and cigar selection in the centre of Lr Muntri.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Khoo Kongsi

2  Pinang Peranakan Mansion

SIGHTS

3  Art Lane

4  Boy on Motorbike Mural

5  Central Fire Station

6  Cheah Kongsi

7  Chew Jetty

8  Han Jiang Ancestral Temple

9  Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple

10  India House

11  Lee Jetty

12  Lg Soo Hong

13  Lim Kongsi

14  Lr Armenian

15  Nagore Dargha Sheriff shrine

16  Osm Mohd Shariff

17  Sri Maha Mariamman Temple

18  Sun Yat Sen Museum

19  Tan Jetty

20  Two Kids on a Bicycle Mural

21  Wonder Food Museum

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

22  The Canteen at Chinahouse

SLEEPING

23  East Indies Mansion

24  Sim City Stay

EATING

25  Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery

26  Chin’s Cusine

27  ChinaHouse

28  Chulia Street Hawker Food

29  Jawi House

30  SUPE Vegan

31  The Jetty Food Court

32  Woodlands

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

33  Antarabangsa Enterprise

34  Mugshot Cafe

35  Narrow Marrow

ENTERTAINMENT

36  Blue Room@Hikayat

37  Jetty35

EATING IN GEORGE TOWN: VEGAN & VEGETARIAN

Woodlands $ Little India’s institution for scrumptious vegetarian food and some vegan options. Food worth the notoriously not excellent service.

Vegan Falafel $ This successful street cart now occupies its own shop in central Lr Chulia, frying up falafel and vegan rolls till the wee hours.

Pinxin Vegan Cuisine $$ Among the first to launch the vegan cafe trend in town, serving vegan renditions of Malaysian staples and veggie burgers.

SUPE Vegan $$ George Town branch of this vegan Japanese restaurant specialising in vegan sushi, hand rolls, tempura, fried rice and noodles.

Chase Street Art Trails

A walk on George Town’s colourful side

The streets of George Town’s UNESCO Heritage Core are peppered with murals old and new, a real craze since 2012 when George Town’s street art exploded after the George Town Festival commissioned Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic to do a series of public paintings in the city centre. Combining with objects such as bicycles, motorcycles and architectural features, they went viral. His Two Kids on a Bicycle in Lr Armenian is now a mandatory selfie spot on George Town’s tourist trail, with long lines and a cafe beside it. Regardless, Lr Armenian is a good place to start chasing murals, especially by following the hanging umbrellas into Lr Soo Hong, which has many.

Frankly, street art pieces around George Town are all tame on the content – Penang’s state government and heritage bodies keep a watchful eye and screen artists’ ideas, which must reflect a ‘Penang theme’ before being granted permission. The local street art trend goes back to 2010 when Penang’s state government commissioned the Kuala Lumpur–based studio Sculpture At Work to do a series of 56 three-dimensional steel art cartoon caricatures to mark street corners across town and detail their historical value and cultural aspects. The Marking of George Town leaflet, downloadable from Penang Global Tourism website (mypenang.gov.my), is an excellent map for finding most. of these. In 2014, the Urban Xchange project brought several international artists to town, who started a more extensive mural coverage in other areas outside of town, such as Lr Nagore and parts of Balik Pulau town in the island’s southwest. A place to check out today is Art Lane on 127 Lr Pantai: this gallery, crafted from two vacant pre-WWII shophouses, offers artists a piece of wall – and more freedom to deviate from heritage-inspired concepts and leave their mark in George Town. ChinaHouse, a few doors down, manages it.

BEST PLACES FOR MUSIC & CULTURE

Soundmaker Studio

Erratic hours and programming at this underground live club running alternative, punk, metal and hip-hop shows (and sub-genres).

Ruas Record Store

Penang’s only cafe-cum-punk-rock record store has a live music hall upstairs.

The Canteen at Chinahouse

Solid spot for more sedate songwriters, cover bands and the occasional blues wails.

Blue Room@Hikayat

Writers and artists appear at this multifunction in George Town’s best curated bookshop, which also runs world cinema nights.

Jetty35

Industrial-chic cultural space on the eastern end of Lr Chulia hosts weekend handicraft market and occasional art and music events.

EATING IN GEORGE TOWN: FINE DINING

Maple Palace $$ Chinese restaurant surprises with quality Sichuanese and Cantonese cuisine, and a homey dining experience.

Chin’s Cuisine $$ Affordable menus mixing mainland and diaspora Chinese dishes, from Qing Dynasty cabbage to aromatic crispy duck.

Orinea by Farquhar Mansion $$$ Modern French meets Malaysian fine dining with stunning views from the Sunrise Gurney condominium. Reservations essential.

Au Jardin $$$ Michelin-starred Franco-Asian cuisine with only 18 seats and using fresh produce sourced directly from local urban farmers.

BEST MUSEUMS IN GEORGE TOWN

Sun Yat Sen Museum

The legacy of the Chinese Nationalist who established the Republic of China lives on in this exquisite Peranakan shophouse.

Wonder Food Museum

A deep dive into the history of Penang’s famous foods and dishes, with larger-than-life models to replenish your Instagram.

Penang Diocesan Museum

Set next to the Church of the Assumption, it chronicles the history of early missionaries in Penang and displays their memorabilia.

House of Yeap Chor Ee

Learn the history of Chinese migrants to Penang through the life of Yeap Chor Ee, a 20th-century captain of industry.

Get Over-Caffeinated

Bask in hip cafe culture

Since long-term Malaysian resident Narelle McMurtrie opened ChinaHouse on Lr Pantai in 2012, it’s reasonably accurate to say that you’ll find more cafes than temples on any of George Town’s streets. McMurtrie’s original concept, a block-wide amalgamation of shophouses packed with a variety of dining, drinking and shopping options (from bakery cafe Kopi C to elegant restaurant BTB, live-music pub the Canteen and a rotating art gallery upstairs) spearheaded a cafe-mania that has inspired locals to write PhD dissertations on the topic and produced, if not duplicated, over 50 other cafes that play around the cookie-cutter formula of industrial-chic surroundings, imported gourmet coffee, eclectic bakery, cakes and Western-focused menus ranging from French patisserie to Italian pasta and nothing that’s remotely ‘George Town’.

Explosive Creativity

Revel in Penang’s creative hangouts

Penang’s burgeoning art scene is constantly in flux, with hangouts always opening and closing. The Hin Bus Depot is the most reliable spot for the past decade. Born in 2013 during the early years of George Town’s street art inception, the former bus parking lot morphed into a proper permanent art space with various eating and dining options (including Michelin-starred Franco-Asian fine dining restaurant Au Jardin.

Exhibits are open daily until 6pm, but the place comes together on weekends for the Hin Pop-Up Market, when stalls laden with creative local arts and crafts spill over the covered outdoor area and relaxing garden setting.

At the back near the car park, steel artist Low Chee Peng (visit his The Last Tree oxidised steel sculpture in Lr Armenian) runs themed exhibits at O Sculpture Studio, which is next to COEX@ Kilang Besi. Upholstered from a rundown iron factory, the centrepiece of this collaborative arts space is Ruang Kongsi, a community library, social activity and artist exhibition space where, among others, the Ombak Potehi group practises their traditional Hokkien glove puppetry.

DRINKING IN GEORGE TOWN: OUR COFFEE PICKS

Mugshot Cafe Lr Chulia’s central and cosy spot to grab morning coffee and croissants under a charming five-foot way.

Narrow Marrow Members of the local art community mix with the young and elegant. Mean toddy (coconut-palm-sap wine) mojitos.

Frank Laurent Coffee Roasters Get good imported brews and appropriately crafted cuppas at this trendy coffee roastery in a mall outside town.

Kafka Coffee Worth the trek for the chic, spacious dining area, coffee and tea brews, and Mediterranean-inspired egg-and-bread breakfasts.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Blue Mansion

SIGHTS

2  Hin Bus Depot

3  Lr Nagore

4  O Sculpture Studio

5  Penang’s Last Trishaw Maker

6  The TOP at KOMTAR

SLEEPING

7  Campbell House

8  Eastern & Oriental Hotel

9  Hotel Penaga

10  Jawi Peranakan Mansion

11  Muntri Mews

12  Sleep Box

EATING

13  Au Jardin

14  Bibik’s Kitchen Nyonya Cuisine

15  Cecil Street Market Hawker Centre

16  Lebuh Kimberley Food Night Market

17  New Lane Hawker Centre

18  New World Park Food City

19  Pinxin Vegan Cuisine

20  Presgrave Street Corner Hawker Stalls

21  Red Garden Food Paradise

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

22  Backdoor Bodega

23  DSRT Sky Room

See 8  Farquhar’s Bar

24  Magazine 63

25  Manchu Bar

26  Sphere Rooftop Bar

27  Three-Sixty Revolving Restaurant & Sky Bar

ENTERTAINMENT

28  COEX@Kilang Besi

29  Ruas Record Store

SHOPPING

30  Campbell Street Market

31  Chowrasta Bazaar

32  Great Wall

33  Hin Pop-Up Market

INFORMATION

34  Penang State Forestry Department

FIVE CULTURES ON TWO FEET

Start at 1 Penang High Court, paying attention to the statue of James Richardson Logan, an advocate for non-white people during the colonial era. Proceed along Jln Tun Syed Sheh Barakhah to the waterfront. Keep the sea to your left. If it’s not flooded, move to the lower terrace of the 2 Esplanade Sea Wall, built in 2022 to help people ‘feel’ the island’s tides. Stop at grassy 3 Padang Kota Lama to admire adjacent Penang Municipal Town Hall and City Hall – a delight when lit at night. Continue along the new Esplanade Walkway to 4 Fort Cornwallis. The 5 Queen Victoria Memorial Clock Tower stands beside a futuristic steel rendition of a nutmeg fruit placed at the centre of the roundabout that leads to Lr Pantai, George Town’s business centre, where many finely preserved colonial buildings stand, including the 1941 6 India House. Take a right on Lr Gereja and pass the mint-coloured 7 Pinang Peranakan Mansion, just around the corner from bustling Little India’s Market St.

Shop, eat and people-watch on your way to Lr Chulia, where the 8 Central Fire Station, with its free museum, is worth a look. After checking out 9 Art Lane, turn right for more street art on Lr Ah Quee, passing Ernest Zacharevic’s popular 10 Boy on Motorbike mural. Cut to 11 Lr Armenian via Lg Soo Hong for more murals, and experience the city’s most gentrified lane as you honour the past at the beautiful 12 Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple and 13 Cheah Kongsi clanhouse. Dodge the queues as you pass Ernest Zacaharevic’s 14 Two Kids on a Bicycle Mural. End by the overwater stilt houses of 15 Chew Jetty – best visited at sunset.

Beyond George Town

Bow at the striking Buddhist temples of Air Hitam and Pulau Tikus before exploring Penang Hill, Malaysia’s first colonial hill station.

The districts of Air Hitam and Pulau Tikus on the outskirts of George Town offer a quick respite from the controlled chaos of the UNESCO Heritage Core. Founded in 1890 to give Penang’s Chinese, Siamese and Burmese communities a common place of worship, Kek Lok Si temple (‘Temple of Supreme Bliss’) is one of the largest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia. It lies majestically on Penang Hill’s flanks – not one, but a cluster of very hikeable interconnected peaks rising at the centre and cascading to the north-western side of the island. In the nearby leafy neighbourhood of Pulau Tikus, two other storied Buddhist temples face each other like the Thai and Burmese sides of a coin of devotion.

Air HitamTIME FROM GEORGE TOWN: 15 MINS

Visit the Temple of Supreme Bliss

Approaching the small market township of Air Hitam by road, it’s impossible not to see the towering turrets and curved orange roofs of Kek Lok Si. Perched on a side of Penang Hill, visiting this large, ever-evolving temple complex (it added its own hospital in 2023) means experiencing a serene world of devotion.

At the bottom, a wheelchair-accessible inclined chairlift takes visitors from the car park to the base of the 36.5m-tall statue of Goddess of Mercy Kuan Yin, one of the temple’s two centrepieces – the other being Ban Pho Thar, a beautiful pagoda on the right side of the structure that features three tiers of Thai, Burmese and Chinese architectural motifs signifying racial harmony.

The largest chamber is the Avalokiteshvara Hall, where three majestic, seated Bodhisattva await prayers, surrounded by hundreds of small niches laden with the seated Buddha figurines that devotees buy for merit and to support the temple’s maintenance costs. The best time to visit is during Chinese New Year: on the eve of the first day in the Lunar calendar, thousands of brightly coloured neon lights fire up the temple’s roofs and pavillions, and fireworks go up in the night.

GETTING AROUND

A Grab from town is the fastest and cheapest way to get to any of these sites. Rapid Penang buses 201, 203 and 204 also go from the Jetty terminal and KOMTAR stations to Kek Lok Si, while buses 101, 103, and 104 stop near the Thai and Burmese temples. Service 10 to the Botanical Gardens was interrupted at the time of research. It’s also a breeze to hop between these sites on a rental scooter.

Dhammikarama Burmese Temple | Ahxiong/Shutterstock ©

THE HAUNTED HOTEL ON THE HILL

One of Penang Hill’s main issues is the abandonment of its precious colonial buildings. One of the grandest is the Crag Hotel, built in 1895 by the Sarkies Brothers, the Iranian-Armenian architects who gave Southeast Asia four of its grandest hotels: the Strand in Yangon, the Raffles in Singapore, and the Eastern & Oriental and the Crag in Penang. The Crag has lain abandoned since 1977 and locals believe it’s haunted. It has featured as a location in the British historical drama Indian Summers (2015) and a Malaysian Tamil found-footage horror film, Prem Nath’s Irul: Ghost Hotel (2021). You can reach it on foot following the paved road after the Habitat’s entrance.

Pulau TikusTIME FROM GEORGE TOWN: 15 MINS

Two Faces of Buddhism

The pretty neighbourhood of Pulau Tikus is 2.5km to the northwest of central George Town and shelters two other important Buddhist temples in Lg Burma. The Dhammikarama Burmese Temple is Penang’s first Buddhist shrine and has had significant additions since it was built in 1803. It’s one of the few Burmese Buddhist temples outside Myanmar (formerly Burma). A series of panel paintings on the life of the Buddha leads to the main hall, where a striking giant standing Buddha statue gilded in gold awaits peacefully.

Right opposite is the Chaiya Mangalaram Thai Buddhist Temple, founded in 1830 for Penang’s Thai and Burmese population. It houses a 33m-long statue of the reclining Buddha, one of the world’s largest, which also serves as a columbarium for urns with ashes.

Monkeys & Trails at the Botanical Gardens

Only a 15-minute drive from George Town and right at the bottom of Penang Hill, Penang’s large Botanical Gardens extend across 242 hectares of protected areas that are a habitat for diverse Malaysian animals such as macaques, giant squirrels, endangered and bespectacled dusky leaf monkeys and many others.

Today, the park is a magnet for locals who come here to jog, walk and exercise. It was established in 1884 and named Waterfall Gardens after the 122m-high three-tiered falls sloshing down a side of the hill, a vital refilling source for ships that docked at port, which are off limits to visitors today.

You can walk the paved circular path around the gardens in about 45 minutes or strike on the 1.5km Curtis Trail named after Briton Charles Curtis, the gardens’ first curator, which ends at the Lily Pond – a hidden gully with a mini waterfall flowing into a pond populated by red carp and tortoises. A 4WD service runs from the Botanical Gardens car park to the top of Penang Hill, or you can walk. It’s best to hike up the stone staircase near the Herbarium, which rises steeply to a hikers rest point called Station 46, from where you can reach the very top of Penang Hill only using jungle paths.

Explore Penang Hill’s Bungalows & Hiking Trails

Soaring like a benign green goddess above Air Hitam and visible even from parts of George Town, Penang Hill (Bukit Bendera in Malay) is Malaysia’s first British colonial hill station. It was founded in 1788 by Francis Light to enjoy some respite from the heat of the plains. What most visitors experience of the hill today is the five-minute ride to the Top Station via the Penang Hill Funicular, one of the steepest in the world and a marvel of colonial engineering that turned 100 years old in 2023.

It leads to a bleak world of selfie platforms, souvenir-selling scrum and hawker stalls that a US newspaper voted the ‘Top tourist trap in Asia’ in 2023 to mixed local reactions. But this majestic cluster of hills has much more on offer, starting with about 50 colonial bungalows, many sadly abandoned, peppering the Top Station’s surroundings.

Nature park the Habitat is an easy option with a 1.6km guided walk through some of Penang Hill’s last virgin primary rainforest, Curtis Crest Treetop Walk (Penang’s highest viewing platform), zip lines and the 230m-long Langur Way Canopy Walk that skirts the treetops at 40m of height.

The Habitat Foundation’s research was also instrumental in earning Penang Hill a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve recognition in 2021. Straddling 12,481 hectares of marine and terrestrial ecosystems, it pretty much comprises the whole northwest of the island, from the Botanical Gardens to the beaches of Teluk Bahang. You can hike, mountain bike and trail-run this undiscovered green bounty: there are at least a dozen trails, all marked on GPS apps like AllTrails and Maps.me, which lack promotion by Penang state’s government.

EATING IN AIR HITAM: OUR PICKS

Air Hitam Laksa $ Penang’s most famous laksa stall risked closing for good during the COVID-19 pandemic, but it’s back in the market (only on weekends).

Air Hitam Duck Rice $ One of the most beloved stalls at the Air Hitam Night Market serves braised instead of roasted duck over soy-drenched rice.

Nasi Kandar Kampung Melayu $ Among the best nasi kandar shops in Penang; rice is soaked in gravy and topped with delicacies including a signature beef curry.

Sotong Curry Mee $ Now that the Lim sisters have retired, this stall in the town’s market is a good substitute for curry noodles with generous additions of squid.

BEST HIKES ON PENANG HILL

Penang Hill Heritage Trail

Popular, knee-grinding ascent via staircases and some jungle following the funicular railway to the top. At least a four-hour round trip.

Astro Rock

Simple 30-minute hike from Penang Municipal Park that follows the hill’s slopes to a beautiful viewpoint above Penang’s Turf Club.

Bukit Cendana

Reach the Rainbow Rock Viewpoint atop this 550m-high hill, rising midway to Penang Hill’s top.

Bukit Olivia

Hike on the eastern side of the Botanical Gardens to this 265m-high lesser peak in Penang Hill’s range.

Black Pipe Trail

Follow the water pipe from Moon Gate up a steep ridge laden with streams and loop back to the start.

EATING & DRINKING ON PENANG HILL: OUR PICKS

Cliff Cafe $ Two floors of hawker bonanza near the Top Station’s funicular entrance. The ais kacang, juices and fresh fruit are definitely refreshing.

Penang Hill Kacang Putih $ Locals love Mr Sakthivel and his humble pushcart on Penang Hill, peddling an Indian snack of chickpeas, corn, nuts and secret sauces.

David Brown’s $$ The swankiest restaurant on the hill has an old-fashioned British theme, fine dining and high tea on a beautiful terrace.

Kopi Hutan $$ A hit with Insta-snapping locals, the overpriced coffee here is served in big moka pots right in the middle of the jungles.

A WHOLE LOT OF PENANG HILL

Only moderately fit travellers armed with an offline GPS map should attempt this hike, which takes about five hours both ways. Start from the remains of the 1 Bat Cave Temple and proceed uphill past a dragon-shaped pillar to 2 Tat’s Stream Cascade. Stay on the paved path and climb for about 20 minutes until you find an uphill fork leading to a jungle trail. It’s another 20 minutes to a Shiva temple and, a few metres onwards, 3 Penang Hill Station 84, where there are toilets.

On the opposite side of the paved 4WD road up Penang Hill is what’s left of the 4 Moniot Trail, opened in 1825. Follow it until a right turn (marked ‘Penang Hill’), proceed up a steep slope and continue upwards until you reach 5 Viaduct Road. Wait to see the Penang Hill funicular train pass, then follow the staircases of By Path G and By Path A to 6 Penang Hill Upper Station. Have a coffee and ais kacang (iced dessert) at 7 Cliff Cafe and, if you have the energy, take a detour to the spooky 8 Crag Hotel. To descend, retrace your steps to the Viaduct Road and down to 9 Viaduct Station. A staircase joins Penang Hill’s Heritage Trail via a jungle path until 10 Claremont Station, where the path opens up on beautiful coastal views.

Look for the left turn marked by a boulder, and enjoy the views until 11 Da Shi Ye shrine, a few minutes’ walk from the 12 Golden Stupas of Penang Hill – an unexpected local taste of Myanmar. Reconnect with the main path, and a downward right path will take you through farms and orchards back to Tat’s Stream Cascade.

Batu Ferringhi & Teluk Bahang

BEACH RESORTS | FAMILY FUN | COASTAL JUNGLE

Once a chilled and remote hit on the overland Hippie Trail, Batu Ferringhi converted its stunning kilometre-long coastline into a resort playground for holidaying Malaysians – and to be frank, the beach is not the dreamy affair you see on the country’s east coast. Like on Penang’s other tidal mudflat coasts, the water is not as clear as you’d like, jellyfish are an issue, and the tourists are not always too savvy with their trash. There are, though, some idyllic spots from which to catch some of the island’s best purple-hazed sunsets, and a selection of more than decent restaurants catering to the expat population living up here. Further up the coast to the east is the cape of Teluk Bahang, a drowsy fisher’s village next to Penang National Park’s entrance, the country’s smallest, with a string of better beaches and hiking trails. Further inland, families can enjoy a motley collection of theme parks.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Tropical Spice Garden

SIGHTS

2  Batu Ferringhi Dam

3  Chin Farm Waterfall

4  Entopia by Penang Butterfly Farm

5  Escape

6  Miami Beach

7  Monkey Beach

8  Moonlight Bay

9  Muka Head Lighthouse

10  Pantai Keracut Meromictic Lake

11  Teluk Bahang Forest Reserve

12  Teluk Kampi

13  Turtle Beach

14  Turtle Conservation and Information Centre

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

15  Bukit Batu Ferringhi

16  Bukit Cempedak

17  Carla’s Peak

18  Freedom Hill

SLEEPING

19  Bayview Beach Resort

EATING

20  Belimbing Cafe

21  Jendela

22  Restoran Khaleel

23  Rubin Mardini

24  Sajidah Cafe

25  Sweet Home No.2 Teluk Bahang Seafood

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

26  Bora Bora

27  Frandy Beach Bar

GETTING AROUND

The road from George Town to Batu Ferringhi becomes a total gridlock on weekends, when it’s best avoided – unless you’re riding a motorbike. A Grab car should cost around RM30 from anywhere in or around George Town, but traffic suggestions apply as above. Rapid Penang Bus 101 runs between the Jetty terminal on Pengkalan Weld and Teluk Bahang, stopping at Batu Ferringhi en route. Both areas are walkable unless you plan to hit the theme parks.

Visit Malaysia’s Smallest National Park

Jungle, beaches and monkeys

Malaysia’s smallest national park straddles 25.6 sq km in the northwestern corner of Penang island. It’s a lovely, wild place to imagine how pristine the island could have been when the British disembarked here, but since 2022, a steep RM50 entry fee applies to foreign visitors. Many end up not going because, despite the price of the ticket, the park’s attractions remain in dire straits.

There’s a canopy walkway here, but it has not been operating for over 15 years and may as well be shut when you visit. Two badly maintained hiking trails snake through the rainforest to two wide beaches backed by tall coconut trees. On the northwestern side of the park is scythe-like Monkey Beach, a one-to-two-hour, 3.5km hike or a 10-minute boat trip from park headquarters. A few beach shacks serve food and drinks but beware of the sneaky monkeys preying on your belongings.

You can continue up the cape to Muka Head, where Penang’s historic and neglected lighthouse stands alone on a beautiful spot. On the park’s western side is Turtle Beach (Pantai Keracut), a wide and long cove reachable in two hours, where the small Turtle Conservation & Information Centre monitors the movements of the rare hatching turtles.

The beach also harbours one of only five meromictic lakes (where sea and fresh water flow together without mixing) found in Asia. Halfway to Turtle Beach you can turn off to Teluk Kampi, the park’s most secluded and beautiful beach. It takes about three hours one way from headquarters. Camping is possible, but you must pay for a permit and a guide.

TOP TIP

Athough most Batu Ferringhi resorts take up swaths of beach, any coast is public property in Malaysia; you don’t have to leave if an overzealous guard tells you otherwise. Look for seclusion at Moonlight Bay or Miami Beach before entering Batu Ferringhi proper.

PENANG’S INSPIRING SPOTS

Rebecca Duckett-Wilkinson, founder of Tropical Spice Garden and Batu Ferringhi-based artist, shares where she gets inspiration. @atravellingartistdiary

Local wet markets and creative displays of local produce give me amazing ideas for still life. In George Town, Chowrasta Bazaar is beautiful. Check Campell Street, Pulau Tikus markets, and Little India in the mornings, a hive of activity.

Wholesale sundry, produce and kitchen shops on Lr Victoria and Carnavon are hidden treasure troves. Great Wall, in particular, is stacked floor to ceiling with Pop Pop firecrackers, marbles, packs of cards and White Rabbit sweets. In Seberang Perai, I love Kepala Batas – shabby but chic – ‘70s-style vinyl decor bakery and sundry shops filled with tins of colourful biscuits and old painted chik blinds.

Be Entranced by Gardens

Spices and arts in nature

To take a deep dive into anything ‘spicy’, the Tropical Spice Garden is spread across 200 fragrant hectares and grows over 500 species. Audio guides help you explore the twisting paths, lily ponds and terraced gardens, learning about local spices and medicinal and poisonous plants independently. To see arts paired with nature, continue to Art & Garden by Fuan Wong, a glass artist’s open-air studio on part of his family’s durian orchard, where sculptures and installations mix with a collection of strange and incredible plants.

Theme Parks Galore

Something for the family

If kids-focused attractions are thin on the ground in George Town, Teluk Bahang has plenty. Entopia, formerly Penang Butterfly Farm, is a living garden vivarium with 15,000-odd free-flying butterflies, reptiles, creepy crawlies, and insects. The Cocoon has two floors of learning exhibits and indoor activities dedicated to insects and bugs. It’s a fun place to spend half a day with kids but is also quite educational for people of all ages. If your child is not the bookish type, then nearby Escape has not one, but two theme parks packed with nature-themed rope courses and a waterpark featuring a record-breaking 1111m-long water slide, among the longest in the world, that takes you snaking for minutes through the forest undergrowth.

EATING IN BATU FERRINGHI: OUR PICKS

Restoran Khaleel $ Trusted Indian Muslim joint dishing up dosa, roti and plates of nasi kandar for budget-savvy meals.

Rubin Mardini $$ Excellent Turkish and Middle Eastern–influenced food humbly and deliciously prepared by a migrant Turkish family.

Bora Bora $$ With two nearby locations, this long-standing beach bar is the place for a sundowner and sea salt in your meals.

Frandy Beach Bar $$ Beachside bar mixing Western and Oriental cuisines, grilled seafood, and a great spot to watch the sunset from the sand.

Entopia | Michael Tjung/Shutterstock ©

Catch Penang Hill by the Tail

Discover Taman Rimba’s hiking trails

Next to Entopia is Teluk Bahang Forest Reserve, or Taman Rimba, another 32-hectare park with thick and healthy canopies, picnic areas, a forestry museum, and many hiking trails. The most challenging is the ‘island traverse’, which climbs first to 750m-high Bukit Laksamana, the island’s second-highest peak, and then reaches the first, Penang Hill, through its densely forested backdoor. Any trek to Bukit Laksamana requires a permit from the Penang State Forestry Department office (tel 04-262 5272) located on the 34th floor of the KOMTAR tower in George Town, which can take up to a week.

BEST HIKES IN NORTHEASTERN PENANG

Chin Farm Waterfall & Batu Ferringhi Dam

Short stroll from across the Bayview Beach Resort to a sloshing waterfall with a fantastic rock landscape, and onto the dam.

Freedom Hill

Moderate ascent via a private garden and a set of stairs to a commanding viewpoint that takes in all the bay below.

Carla’s Peak

Continuing from Freedom Hill, this peak sheltered in the jungle has no views. but it rewards hikers with canopies and insect orchestras.

Bukit Batu Ferringhi & Bukit Cempedak

From Carla’s Peak, reconnect to Chin Farm by taking in 597m Bukit Batu Ferringhi and 518m Bukit Cempedak. Seven-hour loop.

Zi Zai Hill

Beautiful, challenging 1.5km jungle trek climbs steeply to the top of this 507m high hill, where a spooky cottage awaits.

EATING IN TELUK BAHANG: OUR PICKS

Belimbing Cafe $ Popular food court on the pitcher-plant roundabout, with an iconic roti jala (net-like crepe with curry) and other Malay delicacies.

Sajidah Cafe $ Very local atmosphere and freshly prepared roti canai you will remember throughout your travels.

Sweet Home No.2 Teluk Bahang Seafood $$ Home-style Chinese seafood dishes with rice near the national park’s gate for hearty post-hike lunches – closes at 5pm.

Jendela $$$ Fine Malaysian dining with very good beach and bay views at this upmarket restaurant set inside the Angsana hotel.

Balik Pulau & the Southern Coast

PADDY FIELDS | FISHER VILLAGES | DURIAN COUNTY

Beyond the namesake small town, offbeat Balik Pulau takes up one third of the whole island, spreading from the fisher’s village of Pulau Betong on the southwestern coast to the southern end of Penang National Park and the western side of Penang Hill. This largely flat area hides the villages of Sungai Pinang and Pantai Aceh, where life flows slower, traditional Malay and Chinese houses still sit next to large swaths of agricultural land, and paddy fields are as ubiquitous as durian orchards. There’s another powerful element at play here: the Straits Sea. It laps against Balik Pulau’s western coast for kilometres, looping around the offshore islet of Pulau Betong and swooping again onto the quiet, tourist-free seaside villages of the Southern Coast, an even lesser-known area where longboats and fisher folk exist by the moods of the tide, and the sticky fingers of Penang’s encroaching northern development have just started leaving their traces.

SIGHTS

1  Balik Pulau Paddy Fields

2  Hakka Dancing Girl

3  Holy Name of Jesus Catholic Church

4  Lily Flats Mural Art

5  Old Fisherman Mural

6  Pantai Esen

7  Pantai Pasir Panjang

8  Pulau Rimau

9  Rainbow Rock

10  Roti Man Mural

11  Rubber Tapper Mural

12  Silat Master Mural

13  Tua Pek Kong Shrine

ACTIVITIES

14  Countryside Stables

15  Invisible Hill (Bukit Teluk Tempoyak Kecil)

16  Paradox Hill (Bukit Teluk Tempoyak Besar)

17  Penang ATV Eco Tour Balik Pulau

18  Sea Mountain

SLEEPING

19  Audi Guesthouse

20  Fig Tree Hill Resort

21  Malihom

EATING

22  2F+ Coffee Roastery

23  LoveUU Teafarm

See 14  Nada Natural Farming

GETTING AROUND

To really explore Balik Pulau’s sites you need some time and some wheels. The closest place to rent the latter is Penang International Airport – George Town is 20km away. Both the city and airport are connected to Balik Pulau town by Rapid Penang Bus 403E, and once there, infrequent buses 403 and 404 continue to Pulau Betong and Pantai Aceh, the area’s southern and northernmost villages. Scenic road 6 also connects Balik Pulau to Teluk Bahang, cutting through hill scenery dotted with durian orchards and sublime views, and is the halfway point on the 76km long round island circuit – a popular cycling and motorbiking route.

Delightful Balik Pulau Town

Traditional life and street art

When Penangites say ‘Balik Pulau,’ they mean the small municipality of the same name set roughly at the centre of the Balik Pulau area. The Holy Name of Jesus Catholic Church, established in 1854 as a wooden building, is one of the main sights, along with the row of time-worn Chinese shophouses that dot the town’s main thoroughfare. In 2016, modernity brought mural art mainly by Russian artist Julia Volchkova. Her realistic portraits include an Old Fisherman, the Silat Master, the Hakka Dancing Girl and the largely faded Rubber Tapper. In July 2019, more street art arrived during the Balik Pulau Festival. The large Roti Man by local artist Abdul Rashid Abdul Raman is on the opposite side of the square from Volchkova’s Old Fisherman and celebrates Munyadi Letchumanan, who has peddled his trade here for over 30 years. There are larger murals on the walls of the Lily Flats on the northern end of Jln Bukit Penara. A 10-minute drive south of town is Pulau Betong, a fisher’s village facing an inhabited island of the same name that’s a good spot for fishing – local folks can organise boats – and about 5km further, the isolated Pantai Pasir Panjang, one of Penang’s finest and quietest beaches with zero development, beside a military camp.

TOP TIP

Penang’s main durian season runs from May to August. Avoid visiting Balik Pulau on weekends at this time, when local tourists flock here to eat durian, and the roads become busy traffic gridlocks.

Learn About the Local Fruit

Go where durian and nutmeg grow

No visit to Balik Pulau is complete without learning about its main crops, durian and nutmeg. The British East India Company introduced the latter from the Moluccas to Penang in the 18th century, and since then, it has thrived locally. The best place to see it (and buy some) is at the Ghee Hup Nutmeg Factory off the main Road 6 to Teluk Bahang. For durian, orchard Bao Sheng Durian Farm offers charming accommodations and ‘tasty’ buffet packages, including orchard tours.

Cycle in the Paddies

Local tours on your own steam

One of the best ways to see Balik Pulau is to take to the countryside on a bicycle past palm trees, Malay kampung (village) wooden houses and farmland. The largest is by far the Balik Pulau Paddy Fields of Kampung Terang – a rural heaven of meandering streams and flocks of white egrets. If you don’t have a bicycle, Audi Guesthouse (facebook.com/audiguesthouse) in Pulau Betong can rent or guide you around.

Swim, Hike & Ride at Pantai Esen

Offbeat southeastern shore

A beautiful, clear sand beach backed by coconut trees is a rarity in Penang, but the village of Permatang Damar Laut has Pantai Esen. Facing the hills of offshore Pulau Rimau is a hit with locals and largely off the radar of foreign visitors – quite ironic, as it is only ten minutes’ drive away from Penang Airport.

Swimming is possible, but be aware of jellyfish, a common threat on Penang’s beaches. The walk to the end of the coast passes via a giant fig tree with cascading roots and brings you to a Tua Pek Kong shrine. From here, two jungle treks lead across three contiguous hills (the peaks of Bukit Teluk Tempoyak Besar and Kecil) rechristened as Paradox Hill, Sea Mountain and Invisible Hill. Take the left path for the easiest 40 minutes’ ascent to the telecom tower on top of Paradox Hill, stopping at Rainbow Rock (a boulder hideously painted in bright colours) en route. Turning right from the temple, the second trek skirts the coast and then rises very steeply to Sea Mountain, where an entrancing cluster of abandoned WWII bunkers sits hemmed by jungle. It’s a short hike from there to the top of Paradox Hill, from where one can descend to the temple or continue to Invisible Hill. A GPS offline map is recommended because the trail is not well-marked.

BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES IN BALIK PULAU

Countryside Stables

From Arabian and Thai horses to polo ponies, guests can ride, feed hay to the animals and enjoy the lush surroundings.

Audi Dream Farm

Petting zoo and animal farm with goats, rabbits and birds set in quiet gardens best enjoyed on foot.

Saanen Dairy Goat Farm

Family-run sustainable goat farm with 100 animals, including deer, and tours to learn more about them.

Penang ATV Eco Tour Balik Pulau

Ride ATV in the paddies around Kampung Perlis under the guidance of a team of expert riders.

Tropical Fruit Farm

Take a tour of this 800m-high estate dotted with hundreds of diverse tropical fruits.

DRINKING IN BALIK PULAU: BEST CAFES

Nada Natural Farming $ Largely open-air cafe using sustainable farming produce to cook and brew kefir drinks. Good coffee. Only open weekends 3–9pm.

2F+ Coffee Roastery $$ Brewing perfect coffee for over a decade, with more branches in Relau and Sungai Tiram, Penang, and Bangkok, Thailand.

LoveUU Teafarm $$ From noon to 6pm on weekends, this flower and herbs tea farm turns into a beautiful paddy field cafe by the river.

Lake Cafe $$ Western cafe standards at a knockout location by a blue lake, with floating lily flowers and Instagram-ready hanging bird nests.

Seberang Perai

LOW-KEY TOWNS | ACCESSIBLE NATURE | TRADITIONAL CULTURE

Connected by two bridge links with Penang island, the mainland side of Penang state – an area 2.6 times bigger than the island and slightly larger than Singapore – is like a twilight zone for local tourism: everyone knows it’s there, but very few make an effort to leave the island and go check it out. Don’t make the same mistake: the old town of Bukit Mertajam (BM for locals) has rows of traditional Sino-Portuguese shophouses that still run the old trades that gentrification has driven out of George Town. It also sits under a hill and forest reserve, Cherok Tok Kun, where giant trees and many adventurous hiking trails await. Along the coast, offbeat Teluk Air Tawar and Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest are havens for migratory birds, while seafood and street art await in the village of Bukit Tambun or the car-free, palm-fringed offshore island of Pulau Aman.

SIGHTS

1  Biggest Tree of Penang

2  Bukit Berapit Thai Monastery

3  Bukit Mertajam Art Walk

4  Cherok Tok Kun Viewpoint Platform

5  Minor Basilica of St Anne

6  Pek Kong Cheng Temple

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

7  328 Rainbow Stairways

8  Cherok Tok Kun Nature Park

SLEEPING

9  Summit Hotel

EATING

10  Ali Nasi Kandar

11  BM Cup Rice

12  BM Yam Rice

13  Lau Pheng Yu Food Court

See 3  Molido Eatery & Gallery

Pulau Aman | Cloud_Yew/Shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

Seberang Perai’s sights are scattered, with few public transport options from the island. Penang Ferry runs boats for pedestrians and two-wheeler vehicles (RM2 each way, only payable via contactless card) between George Town’s Raja Tun Uda and Butterworth’s Sultan Abdul Halim ferry terminal, where Penang Sentral has buses to a few towns on the mainland. The infrequent but free Rapid Penang bus CT14 between KOMTAR and Bukit Mertajam’s Summit Hotel leaves you within walking distance of the old town. A car or scooter is necessary to go any further than that.

TOP TIP

Download and add credit to the Penang & Seberang Perai Smart Parking System app to park on the island, where hourly rates are halved to RM0.40.

Go Back in Time at Bukit Mertajam’s Old Town

Discover Penang’s heritage without UNESCO

Stepping into Bukit Mertajam’s old town is like stumbling into a mini George Town before tourism existed. The compact grid of lanes packs forlorn shophouses, a lively wet market and the newly rebuilt 130-year-old Pek Kong Cheng temple, one of the oldest Chinese shrines in Malaysia, whose original structure burned down in July 2019.

Nearby Bukit Mertajam Art Walk in Lg Ann Cheng has a photo gallery dedicated to the town’s most striking event, the annual Hungry Ghost Festival, and a few worthwhile cafes like Molido Eatery & Gallery. The alley sparkles up with a creative market from morning until early afternoon every first and third Sunday of the month. The whitewashed Minor Basilica of St Anne is 3km southwest of town. It was founded in 1846 and is one of Malaysia’s most important Roman Catholic churches. The annual festival of St. Anne, held for ten days around the church’s main celebration on the 26th of July, attracts over 100,000 pilgrims.

Go Wild at Bukit Mertajam Recreational Forest

Hiking and a monster tree

The 545m-high, dome-shaped peak of Cherok Tok Kun is mainland Penang’s tallest point and the main attraction in Bukit Mertajam Recreational Forest. It towers above the surrounding plains, visible even across the strait from Penang Island, and is home to some of Seberang Perai’s best hikes.

A quicker way to experience this reserve is the 20-minute hike from the car park to a marvel of nature: a century-old Mengkundor (Tetrameles nudiflora) tree with the largest buttress trunk in Penang state. At the base, the roots are twice the size of an average person.

Hiking to the two telecom towers on Tok Kun takes about an hour and passes a viewpoint platform with stunning views of the nearby Mengkuang Dam. More trails get you deeper into the reserve: consider reaching the summit via the more challenging jungle treks 150 and 500 or exploring the eastern side on trek 800.

BUKIT MERTAJAM’S GREAT GHOST BONFIRE

The seventh month of the Chinese Lunar Calendar (usually between August and September) marks the Hungry Ghost Festival (Yu Lan) when the doors of Hell open, and ghosts return to Earth to enjoy the human delights they have missed in the netherworld. The festival’s climax is the closing of Hell’s gates through the ritual burning of an effigy of the King of Hell, Tai Su Yeah, near the Pek Kong Cheng temple. Bukit Mertajam sets up the grandest bonfire in the country, handmaking an effigy about 8.5m tall and 5m wide – the biggest in Malaysia. Seeing it burn is both scary and exhilarating. The Yu Lan BM Festival Organisation has run this festival with great panache for over 130 years.

EATING IN BUKIT MERTAJAM: HERITAGE FOOD

Lau Pheng Yu Food Court $ For 80 years, this corner store hawker centre has served specialities like hor fun noodles with crab meat.

BM Yam Rice $ A family recipe for over 30 years, BM yam-flavoured rice turns brown with sauce. Served with pork meat and offal.

Ali Nasi Kandar $ Silky Indian Muslim nasi kandar, flavoured with curries and prime cuts of chicken, served at this same shop since 1948.

BM Cup Rice $ Stalwart street-side stall selling rice bowls garnished with black soy sauce and fresh duck meat for over 60 years.

Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest | Taufik Art/Shutterstock ©

BEST HIKES IN SEBERANG PERAI

Bukit Juru

Rising to a modest 202m height, it’s a pleasant, shaded hike to lovely views of Penang Island and Bukit Mertajam.

Bukit Panchor State Park

A state reserve of lowland dipterocarp forests with trickling streams, a bat cave and towering endangered trees.

Pulau Aman

Wander this island to see the first breadfruit tree ever planted in Malaysia and the 18th-century Golden Well.

Bukit Berapit Thai Monastery

Short, strenuous hike on the western slopes of Bukit Mertajam hill with perfect sunset views from the temple’s terrace.

328 Rainbow Stairways

Hike to a durian orchard with a landscaped garden filled with animal statues and great views.

Be a Part of the Great Bird Migration

Prepare your zoom lens

The coastline of Teluk Air Tawar, near the town of Penaga on the northwestern coast of Seberang Perai, is a crucial landing site for migratory waterbirds on the East Asian–Australasian Flyway – one of the world’s eight major migratory routes, connecting breeding grounds in northeast Asia, east Russia and North America with wintering grounds in Southeast Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

Although from October to March thousands of migratory birds, including critically endangered species, flock to these shores, Teluk Air Tawar is not recognised as a Ramsar site and is threatened by the rise of coastal fisheries. Visits start at Sungai Tembus Fishermen Jetty and can help put stress on gazetting and protecting these precious wetlands as soon as possible.

Contact the Penang branch of the Malaysian Nature Society (Kanda Kumar, WhatsApp 013 453 7992) for more details and information on organising a boat trip. For a more straightforward birding experience, the 11-hectare freshwater wetland Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest near Sungai Dua recorded about 150 species of birds in the park.

Food & Fun in Bukit Tambun

Food, art and a forgotten mansion

The main claim to fame of the small Chinese village of Bukit Tambun is fresh seafood by the Jawi River (go for New Ghee Seng or Jetty Seafood Restaurant), but this one-street town is also worth a look for its colourful street art – from scenes celebrating its past to Bruce Lee and Marilyn Monroe set next to popular characters from Toy Story and SpongeBob SquarePants. Right in the centre of Tambun is also the enormous and completely dishevelled (a tree grows through the roof) Heah Swee Lee’s Ancestral Mansion from the 19th century. The doors are open if you dare take a look inside.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

George Town

Sim City Stay $ Functional hostel along the sea promenade, with large windows and views over the Clan Jetties.

The 80s Guesthouse $ The childhood residence of plague fighting epidemiologist Dr Wu Lien Teh is now among the best guesthouses in Love Lane. Industrial-chic ambience and cosy shared lounge.

Sleep Box $ Minimal meets hobo-chic flashpacker rooms right in the centre of the action, with spick & span, yet shared, bathrooms.

Hotel Penaga $$ Peranakan tiles, shady city garden and old-meets-modern rooms at this heritage-style boutique hotel on a quiet corner of Jln Hutton.

Ren i Tang Heritage Inn $$$ Former Chinese medicine hall, painstakingly restored into a boutique hotel on a perfect vantage point in the centre of Little India.

Campbell House $$$ Malay-Italian owned heritage-inspired boutique hotel with chic rooms mixing old charms and modernity. Downstairs is the acclaimed Italian restaurant Il Bácaro.

Eastern & Oriental Hotel $$$ Even Orson Welles stayed at Penang’s oldest seafront hotel, now renovated and divided into a sumptuous heritage area and a more affordable modern wing.

Batu Ferringhi

Baba Guesthouse By the Sea $ Trusted, long-running budget digs within five minutes’ walk to the beach. The cheapest rooms share the bathroom.

Roomies Suites $$ Even though its 2nd-floor location in a semi-abandoned shopping complex doesn’t look like much, it’s a solid midrange option with spacious and stylish rooms.

Lost Paradise Resort $$$ Owning the beachfront at a busy spot, these cottages combine Balinese, Minangkabau and Moroccan architecture beautifully. The outdoor garden has a long, skinny swimming pool.

Lone Pine $$$ A boutique hotel fit for a five-star stay. This original bungalow from 1948 has intimate rooms sheltered by casuarina trees and an inviting swimming pool.

Hard Rock Hotel $$$ Mostly sea-facing rooms set around a lagoon-like swimming pool with several bars, all a few metres from the real beach.

Teluk Bahang

Hotel Sportfishing $ Good-value budget option set next to Penang National Park’s entrance, with simple yet well-appointed rooms and a seaside restaurant.

Angsana Teluk Bahang $$$ The bay’s most exclusive hotel has a killer seaside location, plentiful restaurants, a sea-facing free-form pool and delightful mini-apartments with balconies.

Balik Pulau & Southern Coast

Bao Sheng Durian Farm $$ Wake up and smell the durian at these swanky hilltop villas perched on the slope of an orchard.

Malihom $$$ Northern Thai wooden huts transplanted atop a lonely southern Penang hill covered in its own durian orchard. Expensive but very, very special.

Boulder Valley Glamping $$$ Glamping-concept campsite with luxurious tents set amid rocks and nature on Pantai Aceh’s backdoor.

Fig Tree Hill Resort $$$ Elegant wooden and thatch chalets set in an unbeatable forest location with wooden boardwalks, hanging lanterns and tree roots around a pool.

Seberang Perai

Summit Hotel $ Bukit Mertajam’s stalwart is within walking distance of the old town, with an outdoor pool and adequate rooms for the price.

Iconic Hotel $$$ Modern hotel between the Juru highway toll and Bukit Mertajam, with a tower of sleek rooms and a full-on entertainment district purposely built around it.

Vangohh Eminent $$$ Arty and sleek five-star hotel with a swimming pool, gym and spa, well located to explore the mainland. Townhouse just outside the city centre.

Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis

BEACHES, PADDY FIELDS & THAI-MALAY CULTURE

Welcome to Peninsular Malaysia’s rice bowl, where friendly towns steeped in history dot the coast, and limestone inselbergs rise inland like elephants wading through the paddy fields.

Masjid Zahir | Oscar Espinosa/shutterstock ©

All that travellers tend to know of Kedah and Perlis, Peninsular Malaysia’s two northwesternmost states bordering Thailand, is Langkawi – the poster boy duty-free island that steals the show. But just a look beyond Langkawi’s resort-studded beaches and the area’s more rural and conservative Malay character becomes apparent – loungers and sundowners give way to quaint ricefields where water buffaloes dunk their horns to drink, and people live by the rhythms of rice. It’s a similar affair on the mainland, with the difference that by sharing a long border with Thailand (which once owned these lands), the food (fiery and scrumptious) and traditions (mosques mixed with wats) jumble up even more. In Kedah’s capital Alor Setar, the old town by the river is split between Chinese and Malay parts, with traditional Sino-Portuguese shophouses sitting next to one of Malaysia’s most stunning mosques, with Thai temples and restaurants owning their space among them. Ricefields are everywhere outside town: if the tiny roads that crisscross them are barely navigable with a car, they are a godsend for keen cyclists and motorbike explorers. Right to the north is little brother Perlis, Malaysia’s smallest state, which can be driven across either vertically or diagonally in a mere 45 minutes – and yet packs so much, from unspoiled coastline to climbable limestone cliffs, a national park and kilometres of underground caves to crawl.

yusuf madi/shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

LANGKAWI

Beaches, island hopping and mesmerising nature.

ALOR SETAR

Chilled river town and Malay heritage.

PERLIS

A crucible of limestone and green hills.

Find Your Way

Tucked in the northwestern corner of Peninsular Malaysia, Kedah and Perlis share a long border with Thailand to the north and east, and make up a flat, agricultural hinterland with good public transport.

Plan Your Time

These compact states may be small but have a lot of offbeat delights to fill up your time: whether it’s a three-day taster or a weeklong exploration, you’ll still want to come back for more.

Pantai Cenang | Izuddin Helmi/shutterstock ©

A Three-Day Taster

Take a Langkawi-bound boat from Kuala Perlis, reserving a couple of hours for Kampung Warna Warni. Settle in Pantai Cenang and spend a night shopping and beach-bar-hopping. Devote day two to nature, kayaking at Kilim Karst Geoforest Park or island-hopping and a sunset cruise. Catch an early ferry to Kuala Kedah to spend the last day exploring Alor Setar.

A Northwestern Week

Spend three days exploring Kilim Karst Geoforest Park, taking the SkyCab and touring beaches on a rental scooter. Ferry back to Kuala Perlis and overnight in Wang Kelian, rising early for the cloud carpet and caving at Gua Kelam. Hop to Alor Setar and end by exploring Gunung Jerai and the archaeological mysteries of the Bujang Valley.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

JANUARY TO FEBRUARY

Royal Langkawi International Regatta in January. Le Tour De Langkawi in February.

MARCH TO MAY

Perlis hosts the Pesta Angin Timur (East Wind Festival) in March.

JUNE TO AUGUST

Perlis hosts the North Wall Bukit Keteri climbing competition in August.

SEPTEMBER TO NOVEMBER

Ironman Malaysia in Langkawi. Perlis hosts Big Food Festival and Retro Fest in October.

Langkawi

ISLAND HOPPING | BEACH LIFE | INCREDIBLE NATURE

The show stealer of Kedah’s tourism is Langkawi, an archipelago of 99 islands, all floating to the northeast of the state in deep emerald-green waters. It was ‘invented’ by Kedah-native Prime Minister Mahathir Mohammad, who made it one of Peninsular Malaysia’s few duty-free islands in 1987, attracting mass tourism with bargain deals and – like it or not – tax-free alcohol. All the tired tourist-brochure stereotypes like ‘sun-kissed’ and ‘paradise’ apply here, with the good news that the beaches still generally live up to the hype – but Langkawi also maintains its strong Malay agricultural character and conservative attitudes. Nature is the archipelago’s second calling card: declared a UNESCO Global Geopark since 2007, Langkawi was the first Malaysian destination to reopen in November 2021 after COVID-19 closures, pledging to reboot sustainably and with eco-tourism in mind. Its future depends on this delicate balance.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Kilim Karst Geoforest Park

2  Telaga Tujuh

SIGHTS

3  Beras Basah

4  Gunung Raya

5  Langkawi Sky Bridge

6  Pantai Kok

7  Pantai Pasir Hitam

8  Pantai Pasir Tengkorak

9  Pregnant Maiden Lake

10  Pulau Dangli

11  Pulau Kentut Kecil

12  Pulau Tuba

13  Tanjung Rhu

14  Teluk Datai

15  Teluk Yu (Shark’s Bay)

16  Temurun Waterfall

17  The Fjords

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

18  Air Hangat

19  Crocodile Adventureland

20  Dream Forest Langkawi

21  JungleWalla

22  Oriental Village

23  Sytrex Adventure Langkawi

24  Splash Out Waterpark

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

25  Cellar Bank

26  Smiling Buffalo

TRANSPORT

27  Dermaga Tanjung Lembung Port

28  Kuah Jetty

29  Langkawi SkyGlide

30  Panorama Langkawi

31  Teluk Baru Cruise Jetty

GETTING AROUND

Langkawi is served by one airport connected to Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Singapore and Johor Bahru. Ferries from Kuala Kedah or Kuala Perlis arrive at the jetty in Kuah’s town. Grab is widely available, but since the island has very little traffic, renting a scooter for the day (between RM25 and RM40) is an inexpensive option. Cars are only slightly more expensive, starting at RM50 per day. RoRo vehicle ferries also connect Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah to Langkawi’s Dermaga Tanjung Lembung port.

Soar to the Sky

Zip up Gunung Machinchang

One of Langkawi’s most popular attractions is Panorama Langkawi, a kid-friendly theme park set in the Oriental Village whose highlight is SkyCab, a wheelchair-accessible cable car that whisks visitors to the top of 708m-high Gunung Machinchang. The views over the jungle and 550-million-year-old rock formations are spectacular (especially in the glass-bottom gondolas), and they get even better when walking on the 100m-high Sky Bridge, touted as the longest free-span curved bridge in the world.

From the SkyCab’s Top Station it’s a 10-minute walk to the platform, which is accessible to all thanks to a quick SkyGlide cabin ride. The SkyCab is closed for maintenance once a month – check its website for details. Other attractions are a Formula One and 3D movie simulator and a 3D art museum.

TOP TIP

There are few daily Langkawi-bound departures from either Kuala Perlis or Kuala Kedah. Coming by ferry, it’s best to book tickets in advance at cuticutilangkawi.com rather than risk waiting for hours, or even a day, because boats are sold out.

Sky Bridge | Leonid Sorokin/shutterstock ©

LANGKAWI’S BEST BEACHES

Pantai Pasir Tengkorak

‘Sandy Skull Beach’ faces Thailand’s inhabited Ko Tarutao island. Boasts a wide crescent of sand and hiking paths.

Pantai Pasir Hitam

‘Black Sand Beach’ occupies the northern coast’s centre, with black speckles over a long, inviting stretch of sand.

Datai Bay

Belonging to the luxe Datai Resort, this 1.5km-long, 30m-wide, ochre-sand beach was voted among the world’s 10 best.

Tanjung Rhu

North of Air Hangat village, Langkawi’s northeasternmost cape is the best for quiet evenings watching deep-red sunsets.

Beras Basah

This islet in Langkawi’s southern seaboard is famous for its gin-clear waters and white sand.

Live the Sweet Beach Life

Explore famous and lesser-known coves

Visitors to Langkawi mostly come for the beach, and Pantai Cenang, the most developed cove in the southwest of the island, is where most base themselves. It’s popular, but it remains long, large and gorgeous, with white sand and green palms – it’s the crowded outcropping of buildings cutting the sand from the main strip that looks less appealing.

Cenang is Langkawi’s most fun-oriented beach, with plenty of watersports, parasailing and beach bars attracting a mixed crowd of backpackers, locals and families each night. A kilometre or so to the south and separated by a rocky headland is Pantai Tengah, practically a quieter extension of Cenang, but still the scene of a selection of nightlife spots such as the long-running Sunba Retro Bar.

Things get quieter on the northern coast, where beaches see a fraction of the south’s foot traffic: the string of beautiful coves directly to the north of the Machinchang massif include the stunning, yet private, Datai Bay annexed to the namesake resort, while others such as Teluk Yu (Shark’s Bay) are hives of fishing activity, with colourful boats moored on their shores. To the northeast is Tanjung Rhu, a long and delightfully low-key beach on Langkawi’s last cape that boasts the island’s best sunsets.

EATING IN PANTAI CENANG: OUR PICKS

Red Tomato $$ Long-running expat-run diner with the island’s best pizzas and breakfasts with homemade bread and your choice of eggs.

Yellow Cafe $$ Beach bar with laid-back lounge seating, Western food from steaks to grilled fish, and live music. Closed Mondays.

Smiling Buffalo $$ Great coffee, large breakfast platters, lunch and dinner options plus live blues music and a famous Sunday Brunch.

Orkid Ria $$ A stalwart of Chinese-style fresh seafood on Cenang is not cheap, but fish and shrimp are plucked straight from the tank.

Dark Woods & Green Water

Kayaking through mangrove forests

Straddling the northwestern coast of Langkawi, the Kilim Karst Geoforest Park is one of three protected areas making up the UNESCO-inscribed Langkawi Geopark, the first in Southeast Asia, founded in 2006. Kilim is the only place in Malaysia where 500-million-year-old coastal limestone karst formations coexist with mangrove ecosystems. The best way to visit is to join one of the half-day boating and kayaking tours offered by eco-conscious operators like Dev’s Adventure Tours and JungleWalla. They start at the Kilim Geoforest Park Jetty, north of Air Hangat village.

After a short boat ride to a floating platform with a restaurant and fish farm – the endpoint of the tour, where lunch is served – you’ll climb into a single or two-person kayak and explore small side canals to observe wildlife such as herons, mudskippers, fiddler crabs and monitor lizards up close. Sometimes, the mangrove roots close tightly around the kayak until there’s no more room to swing your paddles. Exiting the mangrove forest, you’ll return to the large sea channels to observe incredible rock formations from the bottom up and take a break from paddling to swim in this pristine nature.

Hop Between the Islands

Take an island-hopping tour

Many of Langkawi’s sights and stunning beaches are off the main island, and the easiest way to reach them is by joining one of the island-hopping tours that leave in the mornings from Pantai Cenang.

The most popular stop is Dayang Bunting Island, where the main attraction is the Pregnant Maiden Lake, a speckle of aquamarine water set amid soaring limestone cliffs. The place has been developed for tourism; it charges an entry fee and has a floating platform and cordoned areas for visitors to swim. Swimmers must rent a compulsory life jacket from the only shop on the platform.

Connected by a footbridge on the eastern side of Dayang Bunting is offbeat Pulau Tuba, a cluster of five islets that makes for a perfect alternative to staying on the more touristy main island. Other popular stops on the standard tour are white-sand Pulau Beras Basah, where many visitors swim, and a stop for eagle-watching. The boatmen attract the eagles by feeding them chicken skin they throw into the water, and this practice damages the ecological balance. It should be avoided – you can help make a difference by saying no.

An adventurous alternative to escape crowded boats is an (expensive) self-driven jet-ski island-hopping tour with Mega Water Sports (megawatersports.com). The longest lasts four hours and visits eight islands, including the rock formations named the Fjords and beautifully secluded Pulau Kentut Kecil.

NATURE TOURS

JungleWalla (junglewalla.com) founder and naturalist Irshad Mobarak suggests three offbeat activities.

Evening Mangrove Cruise

Avoid the maddening crowds from 5pm to 8pm, when unique plants and animals come out. As the night falls, hope for this killer combination: star-studded night sky, fireflies in the trees, and fluorescent plankton in the water.

Rainforest after Dark

Drive up Gunung Raya in the late afternoon searching for dusky langurs and hornbills, enjoying Langkawi’s sunset or misty forest before returning to the lowlands. Look for insects and the fabulous flying squirrels by the riverside.

Sea Kayaking & Waterfall Swimming

Depending on tides, explore the coastline by kayak, continue with a rainforest hike, and swim at a remote waterfall.

DRINKING IN LANGKAWI

Kalut Beach Bar A rare proper beach bar on Pantai Cenang has sunset cocktails and occasional fire shows.

Rockafellers Langkawi Popular Pantai Tengah bar, perfect for a night out and with a proper kitchen serving Indian and Western food.

Cellar Bank Kuah town has a premium whisky bar with esteemed visiting international bartenders and a mean tiramisu.

Ah Chong Beach Bar Driftwood tables and toes in the sand at rustic yet charming Pantai Cenang hangout with excellent cocktails.

Telaga Tujuh | Pavel Tvrdy/shutterstock ©

A NOVELIST’S SECRET ISLANDS

Author of bestselling The Accidental Malay Karina Robles Bahrin lives in Langkawi, runs La Pari-Pari boutique hotel and thinks the island’s best parts are actually not on it. @karinaroblesbahrin

My favourite part of living here is knowing that at any time, I have the luxury of taking a short boat ride out for a quiet swim or to lie on deserted beaches on uninhabited satellite islands.

Pulau Kentut Kecil is great for sunbathing and a picnic. Sometimes, groups of jet-ski tours may stop by, but you’ll be by yourself most of the time. And even though white-sand Pulau Beras Basah is popular, it has deserted coves away from its main tourist drop-off point. So easy to get away from the crowds.

Party at Sea til Sundown

Join a sunset cruise

Sunset cruises run from the jetty on Jln Teluk Baru by reliable operators such as Tropical Charters. The experience includes watching the sun dip into the ocean, trying the ‘saltwater jacuzzi’ (a net tied to the back of the yacht) and eating delicious barbecued fish. If you’d like a few mean drinks, these boats are also good places to do so on a budget, as a free flow of drinks is usually included in the price – and depending on whom you’re sharing the yacht with, a cruise can turn into a floating dance party. Day cruise options are also available. Family-friendly, nature-focused tours are available from Kilim jetty, including trips to Pulau Dangli to observe the evening’s flying-fox-bat exodus or sea kayaking with Dev’s Adventure Tours.

Explore the Rainforest

Waterfalls, peaks and wildlife

The best way to experience the jungle of Gunung Machinchang without braving the half-day hike to the top is by visiting Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells), a series of freshwater rock pools on top of a waterfall set inland from Pantai Kok. From the car park, it’s a 10-minute climb through the jungle to the wells, which offer swimming and brilliant views. Near Pantai Pasir Tengkorak is the sloshing 200m-high Temurun Waterfall, the island’s tallest, best seen after a rainy night. Gunung Raya, the island’s highest point at 881m, has a paved road to the top, from which views are spectacular at sunrise and sunset. To understand the wealth of fauna – especially the 267 species of birds living in it – JungleWalla and Wendy Nature Guide (WhatsApp 011 2323 6728) run bird-watching tours and jungle treks.

Parks for Kids of All Ages

Wet and wild in Langkawi

Langkawi packs several worthwhile kid-focused attractions, starting from the Cenang strip’s Underwater World, a full-scale aquarium featuring 500-plus species of fish as well as rockhopper penguins.

Nearby and free to access, Laman Padi is a rice museum surrounded by paddy fields where water buffaloes and ducks graze freely. Two kilometres east of the SkyBridge in Burau Bay is Skytrex Adventure Langkawi, an enthralling rope course, abseiling and zip-line park set on the flanks of Gunung Machinchang, which can be paired with a visit to the shows at Crocodile Adventureland, 6km to the northeast.

In Kuah, the Splash Out Waterpark has 12 rides including rafting inside a 40-degree parabolic bowl-shaped slide. One of the most recent attractions, Dream Forest Langkawi, is an impressive augmented-reality night walk on the foothills of Gunung Raya, Langkawi’s highest peak. A digital narrator digs into Langkawi’s rich folklore and retells its legends while the forest fires up with atmospheric light shows.

GETTING TO THAILAND BY BOAT

It’s quick and convenient to travel directly from Langkawi to southern Thailand by ferry. Destinations on the Thai side are the island of Koh Lipe and the coastal town of Satun – a launching point for other islands or a short two-hour drive to Hat Yai, where Thailand Railways connects with the rest of the country. Ferries to Koh Lipe are run by Tropical Charters, with one daily departure at 11am Malaysian time from the Kuah jetty terminal. Andaman Ferry Ventures runs daily departures at 9.30am Malaysian time to the Tammalang pier outside Satun, where immigration formalities are settled at the port. Both routes can get busy, so book tickets in advance at kohlipelgkferry.com and andamanferry.com.my.

Alor Setar

ISLAMIC ARCHITECTURE | RIVERSIDE OLD TOWN | PADDY FIELDS

Kedah’s capital doesn’t see many visitors besides those on their way to Kuala Kedah, a small town 11km away where ferries depart to Langkawi. But compact, friendly Alor Setar deserves some time – at least to admire Kedah’s most striking Islamic architecture and see how the hip gentrification seen in popular tourist spots like George Town, Ipoh and Kuala Lumpur has also influenced the capital of this largely rural state. Sitting on a bend of the Kedah River, Alor Setar is a delightful mix of old-school Chinese shophouses next to trendy cafes. Nearby, the palaces and mosque lining Medan Bandar (City Sq) showcase the dominant Malay Muslim character of the area. And as soon as the city thaws into the countryside, unending ricefields paint a cacophony of greens, yellows and water as far as the eye can see.

SIGHTS

1  Alor Setar Street Art

2  Balai Besar

3  Balai Nobat

4  Caffe Diem Lane

5  Clock Tower

6  Galeri Sultan Abdul Halim

7  Hoi Chee Tzee Tua Pek Kong temple

8  Jeti Pekan Cina

9  Kedah State Gallery

10  Lighthouse Cape Chali

11  Masjid Zahir

12  Medan Bandar (City Square)

13  Muzium Diraja Kedah

14  Pekan Cina

SLEEPING

15  38PC Boutique Hotel

16  Hostel Ah Wai Ah Zhi

17  The Jerai Hotel Alor Setar

EATING

18  Art Nature Gallery Cafe

19  Caffe Diem

20  Hai Kee Restaurant

21  Kedai Kopi Lor Sa

22  Mind Coffee Roastery

23  Parrot Espresso Cafe

SHOPPING

24  Pekan Rabu

GETTING AROUND

Alor Setar city centre is connected to the KTM West Coast railway line and served by both fast ETS and slower Komuter train services. Buses arrive at the Shahab Perdana terminal 4km north of the centre. Driving is not necessary unless visiting en route to somewhere else, as Grab and other ride-hailing apps work well to move between the centre and sights to the north of town. The Sultan Abdul Halim Airport is also set 11km north of town just off the Lebuhraya.

Artsy Old Town by the River

The heart of Alor Setar

Hugging a bend of the Kedah River, the old part of Alor Setar is divided between Pekan Cina (Chinatown) and Pekan Melayu, the old Malay part of town bisected by Lr Darul Aman, where buildings are painted deep blue. Take a walk on Jln Tunku Yakuub and follow the river until the Lighthouse Cape Chali (closed to visitors), beside which is a quiet viewpoint on the water and the old houses on the opposite bend.

On the junction with Jln Penjara Lama is Caffe Diem, which started the hip cafe culture in town. The nearby street-art-studded Jln Jeti Lama leads to Jeti Pekan Cina, built in 1940 to commute by boat on the Anak Bukit Sungai between Kampung Seberang Nyonya and the city centre.

Behind Caffe Diem is Caffe Diem Lane, a community arts space that features murals and hanging lighting metal covers by artist Lim Zhan Haw. On the northeastern corner of Jln Tunku Yakuub is the colourful Hoi Chee Tzee Tua Pek Kong temple. Established in 1862, it was renovated in 1968.

Continuing south along Jln Penjara Lama, more murals cover the walls until Alor Setar’s proper street-art alley, Lg Setar, where there’s a giant portrait of the longest-serving Malaysian Prime Minister, Mahathir Mohammad, who was born here in 1925. His ancestral home is a short walk away and is now conserved as Mahathir’s Birthplace Museum, a traditional Malay house containing family effects, photographs, and the politician’s old bicycle.

TOP TIP

When in town on a Wednesday, don’t miss Pekan Rabu market on Jln Tunku Ibrahim. it’s both a historical spot and a great occasion to hunt for bargains from traditional handicrafts to foods and clothing.

ALOR SETAR’S BEST MUSEUMS & HISTORICAL BUILDINGS

Balai Besa

Open-sided structure topped by Victorian iron lacework, used by Kedah’s sultan for royal and state ceremonies.

Balai Nobat

Three-storey octagonal tower containing royal percussion instruments from the 15th-century Melaka Sultanate. Closed to the public.

Big Clock Tower

Built in 1912 together with the Zahir Mosque, this colonial clocktower sitting opposite Medan Bandar blends Islamic and Hindu motifs.

Galeri Sultan Abdul Halim

The former High Court houses a museum of Abdul Halim Mu’adzam Shah, twice Malaysia’s head of state.

State Museum

Contains 10 permanent galleries on local history, culture and archaeological finds.

Take a Walk on Medan Bandar

Royal museums and dark-domed mosque

At the very centre of Alor Setar, the concrete Medan Bandar (City Square) collects some of the city’s best museums and buildings. On the western side is the Masjid Zahir, Kedah’s Moorish-style state mosque built in 1912 with five impressive black domes, facing the Muzium Diraja Kedah across the square. These original wooden structures served as the royal palace for the sultan and other family members and now display royal memorabilia. To the south of the square is the Kedah State Gallery, housed in the colonial high court building from 1912, which, at the time of research, was closed for upgrades.

DRINKING IN ALOR SETAR: BEST COFFEE SPOTS

Parrot Espresso Cafe Pekan Cina stalwart cafe with a backdoor verandah boasting views of Masjid Zahir reflected in the river.

Caffe Diem The town’s first Penang-style cafe, in a renovated shophouse. Serves smoothies, cakes and coffee.

Art Nature Gallery Cafe Art-inspired, plant-based and Muslim-friendly vegan cafe in the thick of the old town. Closed Wednesdays.

Mind Coffee Roastery Industrial-chic, arty renovated shophouse with a coffee roastery and exhibition spaces. Closed Wednesdays.

Menara Alor Setar | Nalidsa/shutterstock ©

THE ELEPHANT IN THE PADDIES

Next to the Muzium Padi and 10km from the city, the imposing 218m-high limestone outcrop Gunung Keriang rises alone in the middle of the ricefields. Locals call it ‘Elephant Mountain’ because a protrusion in the limestone resembles the head of the animal, but there are many legends surrounding the origins of this ‘mountain of the Divinity’ – the mixed Sanskrit/Javanese meaning of keriang, according to the colonial officer and scholar Sir William Edward Maxwell. Because culinary utensils were found in a cave, one of the beliefs is that Gunung Keriang was not a mountain, but a ship cursed by Sang Kelembai, a mythical Malay monster giantess who can turn things into stone.

Reach the Clouds

Ascend Alor Setar’s tallest tower

Dominating the city’s skyline, the futuristic, 165m-high Alor Setar Tower (Menara Alor Setar) is Malaysia’s third-tallest observation tower. A visit rewards acrophobics with different levels of suffering: an observation deck at 88m, a revolving restaurant at 94m, the Mega View banquet hall at 100m, and an open deck at 105m. Fearless observers can use two glass boxes for even better views. Two high-speed elevators whiz visitors from ground level to the top in less than a minute.

Know Everything about Rice

A visit to the Paddy Museum

Soaring 10km north of the city amid fields laden with its element, the Muzium Padi is dedicated to Kedah’s primary produce and built to resemble bundles of paddy stalks. The structure has three levels, but the scene stealer is on the top floor: a 360-degree mural of the surrounding landscape, including nearby elephant-shaped limestone massif Gunung Keriang, and vignettes of local life drawn by 60 North Korean artists who lived nearby for two years to research the artworks.

EATING IN ALOR SETAR: OUR PICKS

Nasi Lemak Ong $ Chinese-run shop selling Indian-style nasi campur (curried meat buffet), with choices of meats like lamb and chicken.

Kedai Kopi Lor San $ Run by the third-generation owner, serves Alor Setar’s signature stewed duck noodles and yong tau fu.

Hai Kee Restaurant $ Hainanese traditional home cooking, with thick curries still prepared over charcoal-fired stoves. Closed Thursdays.

Medina Thai Palace $$ Generous servings at this Thai-Malay restaurant specialising in seafood and sending customers away full and satisfied.

Beyond Alor Setar

Endless paddy fields cover Kedah’s hinterland, camouflaging its bounty of lakes, small towns and distinctive identity as the monotone place it’s definitely not.

The strip of land running between Kedah’s coast, the southern Thai provinces of Songkhla and Yala, and the southern reaches of Penang’s mainland rarely makes travellers’ itineraries. It may be because it’s hard to reach or because its distinct Thai and Islamic influences make it a bit of an enigma – but Alor Setar’s green and flat backyard, the veritable ‘rice bowl’ of Peninsular Malaysia, hides more than one thinks. Lakes, waterfalls, bulging limestone pinnacles, quiet villages and fiery food await those who can slow down, make the detour, and experience a more traditional side of Malaysia where Islamic Malay culture blends with both Thai Patani Muslim and Buddhist Thai identity, packing a mix that’s hardly available elsewhere in the country.

GETTING AROUND

With everything around Alor Setar reachable in under two hours, Kedah’s interior is small enough to be explored in a few days but lacks the transportation options found along the coast. The best way to explore is by renting a car, either in Alor Setar or Penang, and hopping between the sights at your own leisure. As it’s a flat, relatively car-free area, it can also be tackled on a motorbike and even slowly on a bicycle.

GurunTIME FROM ALOR SETAR: 1 HR

Conquer Gunung Jerai

Unlike other mountains in the area, 1217m-high Gunung Jerai, a beautiful multipeak inselberg near Kedah’s southern town of Sungai Petani, has stayed well under the radar, even though the views are spectacular and it’s possible to drive up. From the Forestry Museum at the base near Gurun it takes twenty minutes to scramble up the 13km-long, winding road to the top, where the Regency Jerai Hill Resort awaits guests and day visitors.

The forest around here is thick and well protected: a few hiking trails take to a series of swimming holes and waterfalls, and it’s also possible to attempt the ascent from the very base of the mountain – a half-day trek through leech-infested territory. With a car, don’t miss the sloshing two-tier Seri Perigi Waterfall (the highest in Kedah at more than 100m), which cascades from the northwestern side of the massif and is accessed from the village of Yan Kecil. It takes half an hour to hike from the base to the top.

Sungai Petani | syazniaizat/shutterstock ©

KEDAH’S ENDANGERED FOREST

Bordering the Thai province of Yala, the Ulu Muda Forest Reserve in the northeastern corner of Kedah is a crucial water catchment area for the Muda, Pedu and Ahning dams, whose rivers contribute as much as 96% of Kedah’s and 80% of Penang’s water supply. The area is also one of the last remaining habitats for the Asian elephant and ten different species of hornbills. Despite its undeniable importance, the Ulu Muda forest remains unprotected – deforestation and unsustainable logging activities, legal and not, threaten the quality of its water output. Earth Lodge Camp is a basic ecolodge and field research base to get to know this magical yet endangered forest.

Sungai PetaniTIME FROM ALOR SETAR: 1 HR

Don your archaeology hat in Lembah Bujang

Settlement in Kedah goes back to the late prehistoric period, and some of the archaeological sites in the area are located south of Gunung Jerai in an area christened as Lembah Bujang (Bujang Valley) in the 1970s.

Findings in the area date back to the second century CE and prove the existence of Hindu-Buddhist communities and a multicultural society that predates Islam and which archaeologists refer to as Kedah Tua (Old Kedah). This kingdom extended as far south as parts of Seberang Perai on Penang’s mainland.

There are three main sites where you can learn about this fascinating history. The Bujang Valley Archaeological Museum sits next to reconstructed ancient Hindu and Buddhist temples, the best preserved of which is Candi Bukit Batu Pahat. Two galleries offer displays in English explaining the history and the artifacts, especially Chinese pottery, which demonstrates the trade relations Old Kedah enjoyed as a wealthy, bead-producing trading centre.

It’s a 10-minute drive to the second site, Pengkalan Bujang, where there are more untouched remains of Buddhist and Hindu temple structures and a beautiful view of Gunung Jerai. Another 7km away is Sungai Batu Archaeological Site, a large area featuring the remains of the iron-smelting furnaces that made this area a commercial powerhouse between the second and 13th centuries CE.

BalingTIME FROM ALOR SETAR: 1¾ HR

Malaysian history and a bullhorn peak

Only 18km away from the Thai border, Baling is rarely visited by tourists but has been pivotal in Malaysia’s history. It was the entry point for Japanese invaders in WWII and, in 1956, hosted unsuccessful peace talks to end the Malayan Emergency. In 1974, thousands of students protested in Baling for peasant rights, and on 19 November 1985, the police and villagers clashed during the arrest and killing of Muslim preacher Ibrahim Mahmud.

Baling is also where the two ends of a twin limestone range soar like a bullhorn in the opposing peaks of Gunung Baling and Gunung Pulai. Of the two, 546m-high Gunung Baling is less technical and more accessible, with a jungle path that balds into bare rock terrain. From the top, a cerulean blue sky and carpet of rolling green hills blend on the horizon, where Penang island, floating 96km away, is visible. Contact Gunung Baling Park Office (04-470 1803) to book your slot. The other limestone, 620m-high Gunung Pulai, is a mighty slog up a quasi-vertical, rocky limestone mountain. Guides are compulsory: Gunung Baling park’s rangers recommend Solehan (WhatsApp 017-461 6972).

Those who brave the lofty peaks may wish to marinate afterwards in Ulu Legong Hot Springs, 20km northeast of town.

KulimTIME FROM ALOR SETAR: 1¾ HR

Walk on Malaysia’s longest canopy walkway

Closer to George Town than Alor Setar, the offbeat Kulim area rewards with quiet countryside, authentic Malay culture, and some of the Peninsula’s best whitewater rafting at Sedim River. It’s also got the 925m-long and 26m-high Sungai Sedim Tree Top Walk, one of the world’s longest rainforest canopy walkways. The Sedim Forest Reserve is where the 14.2km-long, two-day hiking trail to the commanding 1862m-high Gunung Bintang starts via the Lata Riau waterfall. Permits and a guide are necessary.

BEST WATERFALLS IN KEDAH’S INTERIOR

Junjong

Set 15km south of Kulim, these large, swimmable falls are set in a reserve with camping facilities.

Lata Bayu

A beautiful sloshing waterfall with a swimming pond set in a free-to-access eco-park 30km northwest of Baling.

Alur Naga Fall

Vertical waterfall in the jungle on the top of Gunung Jerai, easily reachable from the Jerai Hill Resort.

Puteri Mandi

A tall vertical fall at the base of Gunung Jerai, reachable via two-hour trek from the Titi Hayun forest. Guide and permit needed.

Lata Mengkuang

Swimming area along a stretch of the Chepir River, 12km east of Sik. Continue onward through jungle to the Lembu Emas Falls.

Perlis

LIMESTONE PINNACLES | CAVES | PADDY FIELDS

Perlis is Malaysia’s smallest and most overlooked state, nestled up against the Thai border, and travellers tend to only come here because it’s a transit point to Thailand or Langkawi. But the state is one of the country’s greenest and, with a little effort, makes for rewarding exploration – especially if your goal is to improve your Bahasa Malaysia. The nearby towns of Kangar, the state’s capital, and Arau, the royal capital, have upped their game and now offer street art and several top-notch cafes. But Perlis’ beauty lies in the splendour of its rural scenery, all towering limestone rock formations and never-ending paddy fields that make this land glow in all shades of yellow and green. It may be small, but Perlis packs a lot: waterways to paddle, plenty of campsites to enjoy nature and a small state park set in the mountains straddling the state’s northwestern corner.

SIGHTS

1  Al Hussain Mosque

2  Kampung Warna Warni Kuala Perlis

3  Kangar Street Art

4  Masjid Alwi

5  Muzium Kota Kayang

6  Timah Tasoh Lake

7  Tuanku Syed Putra bridge

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

8  Bukit Chabang

9  Bukit Chabang Mari

10  Eco-Park Bukit Ayer

11  Geopark Bukit Jernih

SLEEPING

12  Bukit Ayer Resort

13  Kangar Hotel

See 10  Nakawan Base Camp

14  T Hotel Kuala Perlis

15  The Putra Regency

16  The Zuley Heritage Hotel

EATING

17  Kak Su Laksa

See 13  Ngopi

18  Salvo Cafe

ENTERTAINMENT

19  Balbuk Haus

SHOPPING

20  Nat Pokok Getah

TRANSPORT

21  Kuala Perlis Ferry Terminal

GETTING AROUND

Perlis is accessible from most of Peninsular Malaysia’s west coast by train and has hourly KTM Komuter services to Penang. There are stations at Arau and Padang Besar, the latter being the end of the Malaysian railway line. MyBAS Perlis operates hourly departures from Kangar to Kuala Perlis, Kaki Bukit, Padang Besar and even Alor Setar in Kedah, but it’s best to have your own wheels to visit destinations that are not always served by the buses. With its largely traffic-free roads, Perlis is a beautiful part of Malaysia to cycle.

Stroll the Sedate Capital

Mosque and street art in Kangar

With its distinctive black, onion-shaped domes and whitewashed structure, Masjid Alwi – built during the British colonial period and officiated in 1933 by the King of Perlis – was the State Mosque until Arau got a new one in 1973. It’s only a five-minute walk from the city centre, where Kangar Street Art paints walls on Jln Kangar and nearby Jln Lencongan. The murals, some featuring interactive installations, depict scenes from Perlis culture and modern-day subjects and were produced by 30 talented artists for the National Level Arts Festival in 2016.

TOP TIP

If you are in Arau on Friday or Sunday, check out the Nat Pokok Getah, a morning flea market in a large rubber-tree plantation in Kampung Kubang Paya. It runs from 8am to 1pm and is a great place to try local food and buy clothes, antiques and plants.

Take a Tour Through History

From stone age to sultans

Located in a plot of land backed by limestone cliffs and caves, the small Muzium Kota Kayang is a worthwhile dive into Perlis’ history through exhibits including neolithic tools, ceramics and royal regalia – all with good English descriptions. The site also hosts a mausoleum dedicated to two 16th-century sultans of Kedah. Without a car, the best way to get here is by catching a Grab car from Kangar, which is 7km away.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES IN PERLIS

Raimy Azmi, heavy metal musician and outdoor enthusiast, suggests spots in his native state.

@rakapbesi

You’ll need a ranger from the State Forestry Department to explore the caves of Wang Burma near the Thai border. Seeing these stalagmites and stalactites is like entering an alien planet.

Eco-Park Bukit Ayer is one of the most popular swimming sites besides Sungai Bukit Jernih and Gua Kelam. You can stay at Bukit Ayer Resort or Nakawan Base Camp, which provide camping facilities. A glamping site is also under development.

Geopark Bukit Jernih is very popular today, with campsites to suit every budget and facility. Don’t forget to climb Bukit Jernih – it’s only about 200m above sea level, but the views are spectacular.

A Colourful Port

Get lost in Kuala Perlis

While for many it’s just a stop to catch a ferry to Langkawi, Kuala Perlis is certainly worthy of deeper exploration. The good stuff is all within walking distance from the jetty terminal.

To the west is the ‘floating’ Al Hussain Mosque, which appears just above the water when the high tides cover its stilts. It’s open to non-Muslim visitors and is an excellent point to see the sunset over nearby Langkawi island.

Ten minutes’ walk east of the ferry terminal is the tall Tuanku Syed Putra bridge, a perfect spot to observe and photograph fishing boats moored where the Perlis River meets the open sea. On the other shore is the quirky Kampung Warna Warni Seberang Ramai, a fishing village turned rainbow-coloured kampung. It was part of a restoration project initiated by the prince of Perlis in 2020, as part of which the residents painted their homes in bright colours to attract tourism.

Descend into Darkness

Spelunking at Gua Kelam

About 1km from the Chinese village of Kaki Bukit, this 370m-long cavern was carved by local miners during the tin-mining days. There are two interconnected caves, Gua Kelam 1 and 2. The first is an easy 400m hike over a boardwalk. It emerges on the other side at the Secret Garden, where swimming and camping are possible amid a stunning backdrop of limestone cliffs. The second cave, which requires a guide, is longer and more complex, including parts where one must wade an underground river. Contact the park’s guide Azim (WhatsApp 019-541 1105) for bookings and information. Recent renovation works added the Gua Kelam Gallery, with educational displays and 3D-augmented artworks.

Border Explorations at Wang Kelian

Views, forests and unique monkeys

Thirty minutes’ drive north of Kangar, the winding road that leaves the predominantly Chinese village of Kaki Bukit negotiates the Nakawan Range towards the Thai border at Wang Prachan. It goes through some of Perlis’ wildest, most remote scenery.

Stop first at Wang Kelian Viewpoint, a 304m-high platform with stunning open views over a large chunk of the state – the twin outcrops of Bukit Chabang and Timah Tasoh Lake are also well visible. If you come early in the morning, there’s a chance to see the awan karpet (cloud carpet) phenomenon blanketing the valley below.

Another 6km brings you to the gates of Taman Negeri Perlis, the state’s tiny protected forest area, which straddles 36km comprising the Nakawan Range of limestone hills and the Mata Ayer and Wang Mu Forest Reserves. This is the only area in the country inhabited by the large, red-faced stump-tailed macaques.

Another big draw is the park’s vast cave system, which requires a guide to explore. There are basic chalets and a dorm, but it’s better to stay in Kaki Bukit where you’ll find some restaurants.

Timah Tasoh Lake | Sazali/Shutterstock ©

TRAVELLING MONKEYS

During COVID-19 it was common to see the stump-tailed macaque, known locally as Beruk Kentoi, looking for its diet of fruits by the roadside in Wang Kelian. The monkeys have now retraced into the jungle, but they remain a local mystery, having been studied only a handful of times since the species migrated to Perlis State Park from bordering Thale Ban National Park, Southern Thailand, in the early 1990s. Scientists say the population increase in the new Malaysian habitat requires stepping up protection efforts. For more information, check out the documentary Wang Kelian – The Forgotten Valley, based on the work of Perlis Wildlife & Nature founder Syamil Abd Rahman, who has been documenting the primates since 2016.

Lake Deep, Limestone High

An offbeat detour

Often overlooked in the rush to the Thai border, the artificial Timah Tasoh Lake is a beautiful spot north of Kangar, hemmed in by rolling hills and limestone. Between October and March, about 140 species of migratory birds flock to this critical water catchment area. A watchtower on the southwestern shore helps you enjoy the views, or you can hop on a boat for a closer look over the water.

Some 5km north of the watchtower and jetty are the impressive twin limestone pinnacles of 390m high Bukit Chabang. Local tourists praise the ‘Switzerland vibes’ of the foothills, where Bukit Chabang Mari operates a goat-farm-cum-open-air cafe on a meadow with breathtaking sunsets. With a guide, you can hike to the top – a 90-minute slog up steep limestone to incredible views of the countryside and the lake.

Bukit Chabang | Mr Fadhli/shutterstock ©

GETTING TO THAILAND

The main border between Perlis and Thailand, open from 6am to 10pm, is the small town of Padang Besar, where buses from Kangar and trains arrive. If coming on the latter, immigration is dealt with on the platform – but note that there are only two daily connecting services to Hat Yai in Thailand at 9.55am and 4.40pm. Otherwise, motorcyclists shuttle travellers the 2km between border posts. There are frequent buses to Hat Yai on the Thai side, 60km away. If you are driving your vehicle, the remote border post between Wang Kelian and Wang Prachan, which is handy to reach Satun, sees little traffic and has friendly officers on both sides.

A Ricefield Art Scene

Perlis’ creatives at Balbuk Haus

Imagine talking art and sipping a coffee while you sit amid a paddy field, a huge limestone inselberg looming just a couple hundred metres from your chair, and the sound of a thousand happy frogs constantly breaking the silence. Deep in the paddy fields near the village of Chuping, 12km northeast of Kangar, Balbuk Haus is the brainchild of artist Arafat Hambalian. No mere cafe, it’s an eco-art-kampung dining experience. A central glass-panelled mini library is the centrepiece for socialising, and an occasional calendar of events – from woodcut art workshops to gigs in the ricefields – makes it an ideal spot to experience Perlis’ creativity.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Langkawi

Bed Attitude $ Hole up in the centre of Cenang and enjoy a social atmosphere with games and tours, well-maintained pods and twin rooms.

La Pari-Pari $$ Run by a novelist on a quaint spot off Pantai Tengah’s strip, these 12 immaculate rooms are next to a pool and Nyonya-noir restaurant fatCUPID.

Bon Ton Resort $$$ Eight grand and rustic Malaysian wooden stilt houses regrouped and restored around a grassy lawn and long pool, with artists in residence to spruce it up.

Frangipani $$$ Long-running Pantai Tengah resort that makes concrete efforts towards ecological conservation, even though rooms are slightly dated.

Kunang-Kunang Heritage Villas $$$ Eighteen villas that conjure old Malay spirits with their perfect balance of restoration and modern amenities and a pool set in a pond.

Tanjung Rhu Resort $$$ Dominating a jet-ski-free bay with well-appointed rooms and sweeping views. Two large pools and a saltwater lagoon are extra perks.

Ritz-Carlton Langkawi $$$ Private beach, luxe sea-fronting chalet and atmospheric rainforest ambience in a short distance from the SkyCab.

Datai $$$ Unique luxury experience at private Teluk Datai, with rooms and suites or rainforest and seafront villas up for grabs.

Alor Setar

Hostel Ah Wai Ah Zhi $ Once a goldsmith, now Pekan Cina’s retro-furnished hip hostel, with private rooms and a clever tents-only dorm concept. A range of local tours is available.

38PC Boutique Hotel $$ Only five rooms with chic balconies shaded by plants and tucked next to the murals on Caffe Diem Ln.

Fuller Hotel $$ Can’t go wrong at this central business hotel with ample parking space and well-appointed, bright rooms.

Jerai Hotel Alor Setar $$ Spacious and adequate rooms at this centrally located midrange hotel, with a big breakfast spread included.

Kulim

Fuller Hotel Kulim $ Like its Alor Setar’s sibling, it is a central and suitable business hotel option with clean albeit slightly small rooms.

Sedim Rainforest Resort $ Beautiful rainforest setting where wooden bungalows cluster around a common verandah and restaurant. It can also organise activities in and out of the water.

Kangar

Kangar Hotel $ Don’t judge this hotel from the KFC outlet on the ground floor, for rooms are clean, modern and right in the main town square.

The Putra Regency $$ Large rooms with good amenities, including fast internet, coffee and tea, in a quiet area just outside the centre. The swimming pool is a nice perk.

Kuala Perlis

T Hotel Kuala Perlis $ No-frills budget accommodation right in front of the Langkawi ferry terminal to spend a night near everything you need.

The Zuley Heritage Hotel $$ Large rooms and an airy hall make this central hotel a good choice between the bus terminal and the jetty.

Kaki Bukit/Gua Kelam

Gua Kelam Chalet $ Great setting below the limestone cliffs and tucked up a small alley in Kaki Bukit, with a garden and on-site parking.

Guest House Gua Kelam Perlis $ Choose between container-style and traditional rooms set within walking distance to the entrance of the Dark Cave.

Melaka

FROM COVETED COLONY TO MULTICULTURAL CENTRE

Explore the diverse cultures and rich history left behind in this former prime trading port.

Porta de Santiago | Eqroy/shutterstock ©

Melaka is a small town on the southwestern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, and its fortunes through the centuries have largely been dictated by those who coveted its strategic location. Founded by the adventurous Palembang Prince Parameswara, Melaka became the epicentre of the Melaka Sultanate and established itself as one of Southeast Asia’s greatest ports in the 15th century.

Leonid Andronov/shutterstock ©

Melaka’s success drew traders and explorers from all over the world, and many chose to make it their home. Some of the Chinese, Indians and Portuguese immigrants went on to marry locals, creating mixed groups such as the Peranakans, Chetti and Kristang, now integral to Melaka’s unique identity. The area also drew the interest of European colonial powers seeking to expand their territory. In the 400-plus years of colonisation – first by the Portuguese in 1511 and then the Dutch and finally the British, whose rule ended in 1957 – Melaka’s prominence ebbed and flowed but gradually declined as global attention shifted to nearby competing ports, such as Singapore.

But it was this slowdown that protected much of Melaka’s heritage architecture from the sledgehammer of rapid modernisation. Melaka City was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, regaining its lustre and drawing travellers eager to rediscover Melaka’s vibrant cultural mosaic through its museums, food and conserved buildings.

THE MAIN AREAS

MELAKA CITY

Diverse cultures and historic architecture.

BEYOND MELAKA CITY

Resorts, theme parks and scenic hikes.

Find Your Way

Most visitors arrive in Melaka, one of Malaysia’s smaller states, by bus or car. While some train services are available, it’s most convenient to get around areas outside of the old town by car.

Plan Your Time

Experiencing Melaka’s unique mix of cultures is a must, whether through the delectable food or admiring the historic architecture.

Christ Church and Dutch Square | Navintar/shutterstock ©

Pressed for Time

Stroll the historic centre of Melaka City. Admire the street art and architecture of Chinatown before crossing the river to Banda Hilir for Dutch Square and St Paul’s Hill. Take a cruise down the Melaka River as darkness falls and end your night savouring the best of Melaka’s street food at Jonker Walk Night Market.

Three Days to Explore

Two days allows you to explore Melaka City more thoroughly, with time to visit Villa Sentosa, Masjid Selat Melaka and the Portuguese Settlement, which require a short drive to get to. Spend the third day away from the bustling city centre and relax in the Melaka Botanical Garden and other tourist attractions of Ayer Keroh.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

FEBRUARY

The independence of the Federation of Malaya is marked on 20 February, a public holiday.

MAY

Dato Chachar is Melaka’s largest Hindu festival, a 10-day affair with traditional rituals, prayer and colourful deity processions.

JUNE

Festa San Pedro is a tribute to the patron saint of fishers on 29 June and showcases Kristang traditions and boat-building.

DECEMBER

It’s the rainy season, but you can still bask in the festive Christmas lights adorning the homes in the Portuguese Settlement.

Melaka City

HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE | DIVERSE CULTURES | FANTASTIC FOOD

Melaka City is one of few places where heritage from the intertwined European and Asian immigrant communities has been preserved, from the distinctive collection of red colonial buildings to its quaint ramshackle rows of shophouses. It’s one of Malaysia’s oldest port cities, and more than 500 years of trading and cultural exchange have resulted in an eclectic blend of languages, customs and practices. Chinese people chat in a smattering of English and Bahasa Malaysia with their Indian neighbours, while push-cart food stalls hawk their snacks in front of chic European-style cafes. Historic mosques and towering skyscrapers jostle for room along the banks of the winding Melaka River, the heart of the old maritime centre. While the city has inevitably become more commercialised with franchise chain shops and cheap souvenirs for the growing tourist crowd, Melaka’s narrow alleys still hold plenty of tasty treats and interesting nooks that make it worth deeper exploration.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum

2  Dutch Square

3  Stadthuys

SIGHTS

4  Cheng Ho Cultural Museum

5  Cheng Hoon Teng Temple

6  Christ Church

7  History & Ethnography Museum

8  Maritime Museum & Naval Museum

9  Masjid Kampung Hulu

10  Masjid Kampung Kling

11  Melaka Sultanate Palace Museum

12  Menara Taming Sari

13  Porta de Santiago

14  Portuguese Wall

15  Proclamation of Independence Memorial

16  Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple

17  St Paul’s Church

18  St Paul’s Hill

19  Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower

TOURS

20  Melaka River Cruise

SLEEPING

21  1825 Gallery Hotel

22  45 Lekiu

23  5 Heeren Museum Residence

24  Gingerflower Boutique Hotel

25  LEJU 21

26  Ringo’s Foyer

27  Rucksack Caratel

EATING

28  Asam Pedas Claypot Restoran Kota Laksamana

29  Baboon House

30  Chung Wah Chicken Rice Ball

31  Daily Fix Cafe

32  Jonker 88

33  Kappan House Restaurant

34  Pak Putra Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

35  Budi

36  Calanthe Art Cafe

37  Geographer Cafe

38  Old Merchant

39  Reggae on the River

40  Sin Hiap Hin

41  Tipsy Bridge

SHOPPING

42  Jonker Walk Night Market

GETTING AROUND

The sights around the heritage areas of Chinatown and Banda Hilir are easy to explore on foot or bicycle. Ride a colourful trishaw or take a river cruise to cover more ground.

Public Panorama Melaka buses get you around Melaka City and its surroundings for cheap, while taxis and cars from ride-hailing app Grab are cost-effective if you’re travelling in a group, but may not be as readily available outside tourist areas.

Driving lets you traverse Melaka easily, but avoid driving within the historical area where roads are narrow and parking is scarce.

Cruise Through History

Take a boat down the Melaka River

The Melaka River runs through the heart of Melaka City and was key in establishing Melaka as an important trading port. Trace these trade routes by hopping on a Melaka River Cruise at Jeti Quayside in Banda Hilir and enjoy a leisurely cruise past the eclectic mix of old shophouses and modern skyscrapers.

The cruise is a 45-minute return trip that takes you up the river to Jeti Taman Rempah and back. A daytime cruise is best for those looking to enjoy the murals and architectural details. Night cruises see more crowds as it is cooler and the bridges and buildings are lit up with colourful lights, creating a festive atmosphere.

The tickets can be used anytime on a particular date. Skip the long queues by buying tickets online or at the counter during off-peak times.

TOP TIP

Melaka City is more tranquil on weekdays, but not all attractions are open and you will miss out on the vibrant weekend-only night market. On weekends, make restaurant reservations to be guaranteed a table without having to queue.

Melaka River Cruise | Dreamarchitect/shutterstock ©

Melaka From Above

Panoramic views around the city

For travellers who enjoy a good bird’s-eye view, the 80m-tall Menara Taming Sari is a nice way to cap off an exploration of the landmarks of Banda Hilir. An enclosed air-conditioned cabin with outward-facing seats slowly rotates, offering spectacular 360-degree views of Melaka’s main sights and the Strait of Melaka.

The highest lookout point in Melaka is Shore Sky Tower, standing at 163m high with a glass deck and viewpoint on the 43rd floor. It’s just across the river from Villa Sentosa in Kampung Morten. The best time to visit is at sunset, after which you can enjoy an elevated dinner at Sky Deli Restaurant or Pampas Sky Dining, located in the same complex.

TRIPPY TRISHAWS

A pedal-powered trishaw ride around the historical area is a leisurely way to see the sights, but Melaka’s trishaws (beca) take this traditional transport to another level.

It’s pretty much impossible to miss these trishaws as they zip around the historic town centre with loud blaring music and carriages festooned with colourful ornaments or decked out in pop-culture icons from Spiderman to Hello Kitty. Whether you consider them a blight on the historical landscape or a kitschy must-do, these blinged-up trishaws have become a distinctive part of Melaka and can be found with LED lights blazing at the roundabout in front of Stadthuys or the Melaka River end of Jonker St.

EATING IN MELAKA CITY: OUR PICKS

Pak Putra Restaurant $ Pakistani food in an outdoor eatery that serves top-notch tandoori chicken, tasty naan and mango lassi.

Asam Pedas Claypot Restoran Kota Laksamana $ A local favourite for tangy asam pedas (sour and spicy fish stew) in a clay pot.

Restoran Ban Lee Xiang $ Renowned for its excellent satay celup, skewers dunked in a pot of savoury peanut sauce to cook at your table.

Kappan House Restaurant $ Homestyle Melakan food. Try the special fried mee hoon (vermicelli noodles) with ginger and rice wine.

Baboon House $$ Asian-inspired gourmet burgers and handcrafted drinks in a vintage shophouse covered in foliage.

Daily Fix Cafe $$ Perpetually crowded brunch spot known for its fluffy pandan pancakes and hand-roasted espresso.

Botanist Cafe $$ This popular vegetarian and vegan joint has an extensive menu of local and Western-style food.

Bulldog $$ Contemporary restaurant serving family-style Peranakan dishes with a modern twist and excellent service. Reservations are mandatory. 6-9pm Tue-Sun, noon-2.30pm Wed-Sun

TOP SIGHT

Chinatown

Perhaps Melaka City’s most interesting area, Chinatown has narrow shophouse-lined lanes chock-a-block with curio shops and hip cafes mixed in with a diverse selection of some of Malaysia’s oldest religious buildings. Jonker St might be perpetually packed with tourists, but taking a detour onto an adjacent lane can reveal unexpected finds, such as an art gallery or historical grave.

Hilman Kamaruzzaman/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Jalan Hang Jebat

Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum

Masjid Kampung Kling

Cheng Hoon Teng Temple

Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple

Cheng Ho Cultural Museum

Masjid Kampung Hulu

Jalan Hang Jebat

Formerly known as Jonker St, Jln Hang Jebat is the heart of Chinatown. It’s constantly thronged with visitors picking up souvenirs and sampling Melaka’s famous street food, such as cendol (shaved-ice dessert with green noodles, syrups, fruit and coconut milk) and chicken rice balls.

The road is pedestrianised on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, and pop-up stalls along the street transform it into the bustling Jonker Walk Night Market.

Religious Buildings on Harmony Street

The connecting streets of Tokong and Tukang Emas are home to three different houses of worship just steps away from one another, existing side by side in peace for centuries.

The 15th-century Cheng Hoon Teng Temple is Malaysia’s oldest Chinese temple, a Hokkien-style structure filled with ornate carvings and gilded decorations. Dedicated to Guanyin, the goddess of mercy, the multifaith temple remains a pillar of the Chinese community and serves the Buddhist, Taoist and Confucianist communities.

Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple was one of the country’s first Hindu temples, constructed in 1781. Built by the leader of the Chetti community who hailed from south India and intermarried with the local Malays, the temple is dedicated to the elephant god Ganesha or Venayagar. It’s one of the last surviving Chetti temples and can be visited outside of prayer time.

Originally completed in 1748, the Sumatran Kampung Kling Mosque is one of the best representations of multicultural Melakan architecture. Look out for its six-storey pagoda-style minaret, English and Portuguese glazed tiles, and Hindu and Chinese carvings on the pulpit. Dress modestly if you want to go inside.

Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum

The well-preserved interior of this traditional two-storey townhouse abode lets you imagine what life was like for the wealthy Peranakan family that lived here, from the elegant reception hall rooms up front to the airy kitchen and centre of the household in the back. Tickets come with a self-guided tour book in various languages that explains the artefacts on display.

Cheng Ho Cultural Museum

History lovers will appreciate the incredibly detailed exhibits telling the story of Chinese-Muslim seafarer Cheng Ho (Zheng He) who reinforced bilateral ties between China and the Melaka Sultanate during the Ming dynasty. The museum covers his maritime exploits around the world using dioramas and artefacts and is bigger than it looks from the outside, spanning three floors and the space of eight shophouse units.

Masjid Kampung Hulu

Commissioned by the Dutch in 1728, Masjid Kampung Hulu is Melaka’s oldest mosque and one of the oldest in all of Malaysia. It’s a fairly small mosque with a tiered roof influenced by Javanese and Sumatran architecture and home to a small graveyard with tombs of some notable Muslim scholars.

MELAKA’S MUST-EAT FOOD

Chinatown is a convenient spot to try Melaka’s iconic street food. At Chung Wah Chicken Rice Ball, succulent steamed chicken is eaten with bite-size rice balls. Calanthe Art Cafe has coffees from Malaysia’s 13 states but also does a mean bowl of laksa (rice noodles in a spicy coconut milk broth). Cool off with Jonker 88’s famous cendol.

TOP TIPS

• The narrow lanes offer little shelter. Bring an umbrella to protect yourself from the relentless sun or sudden downpours.

• Roads are blocked in the late afternoon in the lead-up to the Jonker Walk Night Market, so streets in and around the area can get jam-packed with cars and coaches.

• Chinatown is generally safe, but keep an eye out for pickpockets, particularly when squeezing through the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds at the Night Market.

• Staying at a hotel in Chinatown puts you within walking distance of the sights, but it can get noisy.

ON FOOT IN BANDA HILIR, MELAKA’S HISTORIC CENTRE

Start a journey through Melaka’s history at the iconic 1 Dutch Square, with its many red colonial-style buildings and the quaint 2 Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower. Pop into the Anglican 3 Christ Church to admire the architecture if a service isn’t happening and then spend a few hours perusing the collection at the 4 History and Ethnography Museum in the 5 Stadthuys, thought to be the oldest existing Dutch building in Southeast Asia.

Follow the main road west past the remains of the 6 Portuguese Wall until you reach a stairway that leads you on a short climb up 7 St Paul’s Hill and past the statue of St Francis Xavier, which has one remaining hand. Stroll through the ruins of 8 St Paul’s Church and its many tombstones before descending on the southern side towards the 9 Porta de Santiago gatehouse, the only remaining portion of the A’Famosa Dutch fortress.

With the hill behind you, turn left (north) to walk to the 10 Melaka Sultanate Palace Museum, a replica of the original palace and a beautiful example of traditional Malay architecture, where you can learn about the legends of Melaka’s early history. As you exit the palace museum, stop by the 11 Proclamation of Independence Memorial, which traces Malaysia’s route to independence in 1957. Circle back around the foot of St Paul’s Hill until you reach Jln Taman. As you head southwest down the road, you will see the 110m-tall 12 Menara Taming Sari rotating tower to your right (west), the perfect spot to enjoy panoramic views of the coastline as the sun sets.

Melaka’s Many Museums

Exhibits for a range of interests

You could spend all day museum-hopping in Banda Hilir. One of the city’s most-visited institutions is the History and Ethnography Museum in the Stadthuys, which details Melaka’s colonial period under the rule of the Portuguese, Dutch and British with bilingual panels and interactive displays that bring visitors on a chronological journey. Exhibits showcase the customs and culture of Melaka’s major communities.

The Stadthuys ticket also covers the Melaka Literature Museum and Education Museum, which are less interesting for a casual visitor but great if you have a specific interest in those niches.

The impressive Maritime Museum has a replica of the Portuguese ship Flor de la Mar along the Melaka River.

Housed inside the former Banda Hilir prison, the eerie Malaysia Prison Museum has informative displays and artefacts that belonged to former inmates.

The quirky Melaka Submarine Museum, a 15-minute drive west of the historical centre, contains a retired submarine, and you can squeeze through the narrow body to experience the life of a submariner. The small museum also has two fighter jets.

MELAKA’S COLOURFUL MURALS

The street art painted along the buildings that line the Melaka River and in Chinatown is an effort by the local authorities to brighten up the streets of Melaka.

The large-scale pieces are hard to miss, such as the colourful Kiehl’s wall, located at the end of Jln Tukang Besi, which was commissioned to raise the importance of heritage preservation and highlight different elements of Melaka’s culture and icons. Also impressive are the portraits of Malaysian women and the legendary hero Hang Tuah with his keris dagger along the Melaka River.

Look out for smaller works hidden in the alleyways, such as the wall art depicting Melakan daily life behind the houses of Jln Kampung Kuli.

A Living Museum

Experience traditional Malay life at Villa Sentosa

Going to Villa Sentosa feels like paying a visit to long-lost Melakan relatives, as you’re invited to enter a century-old Malay house in a kampung (village), potter around a lived-in space with old photographs and well-worn furniture, and spend your time chitchatting in the living room over a cup of tea. The house is free to enter (donate what you can), and the owner of the house has plenty of stories to tell about his life and the generations that came before him.

Villa Sentosa is about a 20-minute walk north of the historical centre along the Melaka River in Kampung Morten, a rare, preserved traditional Malay village in Melaka City where you can get a glimpse of the old kampung life amidst the forest of tall modern buildings that have sprung up around it.

DRINKING IN MELAKA CITY: OUR PICKS

Geographer Cafe Kick back with a pint and pub grub after a long day of walking and enjoy the live music in this laid-back pub.

Sin Hiap Hin Century-old bar in a former opium den that serves local Malaysian liquors.

Reggae on the River Cheap beer in a no-frills bar with an unbeatable location by the Melaka River.

Jetty by G Bar Sip beers above the water on the wooden jetty at the Portuguese Settlement.

Budi Cosy cocktail bar that spotlights unique Melakan flavours and ingredients in its drinks.

Tipsy Bridge Delicious cocktails in an easygoing laneway bar next to Kampung Jawa Bridge (aka the Ghost Bridge).

Old Merchant Contemporary speakeasy hidden in a former bank serving creative drinks with a local twist.

Alto Sky Lounge Drinks with panoramic coastal views on the Hatten Hotel’s 22nd floor. Smart-casual dress code.

MELAKA’S MIXED CULTURES

The intermarriage of Straits immigrants and local Melakans has resulted in several unique subcultures.

Chetti Melakan

Chetti Melakans are descendants of Tamil traders from southeast India who married local-born Chinese and Malays. They are mostly Hindus who settled in Kampung Chetti along Jln Gajah Berang.

Kristang

The early Portuguese explorers who found their way to Melaka in the 16th century and married the local women are known as the Kristang. They were mostly fishermen who lived along the coast in the Portuguese Settlement in Ujong Pasir.

Peranakan

Sometimes called the Baba-Nonya (the Peranakan words for ‘man’ and ‘woman’), this community stems from the intermarriage of Straits Chinese immigrants and Melakans.

Masjid Selat Melaka | Jasni/shutterstock ©

Floating Mosque

Sunset at Masjid Selat Melaka

With its stained-glass arch entryways, the golden-domed Masjid Selat Melaka (Malacca Straits Mosque) is especially beautiful at high tide when it looks like it’s floating on top of the sea. Completed in 2006, it’s best seen in the evening when the exterior is lit up.

Non-Muslims can enter outside of prayer time and must dress modestly. If needed, you can borrow appropriate clothing at the entrance. For the best sunset view, find your way to the small strip of beach facing the east entrance.

Located on the artificial Melaka Island, Masjid Selat Melaka is a 10-minute taxi ride away from the historical centre. There aren’t any other sightseeing spots nearby, so it’s best to arrange with your driver to wait to take you back if you don’t have your own wheels.

Seaside Seafood

Taste traditional Kristang cuisine

Home to the Kristang (descendants of Portuguese and Malay intermarriage), the Portuguese Settlement livens up in the evenings when the seafood restaurants by the shore open for business. The touts can get rather competitive – tell them where you’re headed so they leave you alone.

Check out J&J Corner (Stall 10) for Portuguese baked fish – fresh red snapper slathered in a tangy spicy gravy made from an heirloom family recipe – and the chicken ‘devil’s curry’ infused with candlenut and the ginger-like galangal. You can also try One Terraces Restaurant (Stall 1), known for its delectable burnt crab cooked in salt and pepper.

Don’t forget to snap a photo with the mini Christ the Redeemer statue that marks the entrance of the village.

Melaka by Bike

Take a cycling tour outside the city

Melaka is relatively flat and ideal to explore on two wheels. While you can easily hire a bike and cycle within the historical area, join one of the Melaka On Bike (melakaonbike.com) cycling tours that take you out of the city to explore a friendly kampung and the surrounding country to see an everyday side of Melaka.

Mountain bikes and helmets are provided. The basic short trips generally last about three hours and cover a distance of 15km to 20km. These can be accomplished by most leisure cyclists, while more avid cyclists can opt for one- to three-day cycling tours for a real workout.

HANGING OUT

Curious about the word ‘hang’ (pronounced ‘hung’) in Melaka’s place names? Hang isn’t a family name but an old Malay honorific given to high-ranking people during the Melaka Sultanate, and it often features in Melakan legends.

The story of warrior Hang Tuah and his death duel with buddy Hang Jebat is well documented in the Melaka Sultanate Palace Museum. Roads were named after them, along with their friends Hang Kasturi, Hang Lekir and Hang Lekiu.

Meanwhile, Hang Li Po is a mythical Chinese princess who supposedly married Melakan Sultan Mansur Shah in the 15th century. Physical proof is scant, but in Bukit China, Hang Li Poh’s Well, the oldest in Melaka, is named for her.

Beyond Melaka City

Melaka is more than the kitsch of Jonker St. Relaxing resorts, fun theme parks and scenic hikes await.

Melaka City has the best-preserved cultural and heritage spots, but venture out of the city and the crowds disperse, revealing green spaces and refreshing natural attractions, perfect for a day trip or two away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist centre.

Just half an hour’s drive away from the historical area, Ayer Keroh offers a variety of theme parks and tourist attractions for a quick, fuss-free weekend getaway. To the northwest, Alor Gajah has a handful of resorts for a relaxing retreat, where you can indulge in retail therapy or embrace the remote outdoors. Travellers willing to go off the beaten path should seek out the mystical island of Pulau Besar.

GETTING AROUND

It’s best to have your own transport when exploring outside of Melaka City. Panorama Melaka buses from Melaka Sentral serve some areas, but they run infrequently. Route 1B goes to Ayer Keroh and Alor Gajah, while Route 6A goes to Pulau Besar.

You need your own wheels for areas such as Ayer Keroh, where several attractions are within drivable distances, and remote places like Anjung Batu Jetty, where it’s difficult to get a taxi easily.

Alor GajahTIME FROM MELAKA CITY: 1 HR

Recreation time at A’Famosa Resort

Alor Gajah’s main attraction is the large, family-friendly A’Famosa Resort, which has an impressive set of recreation facilities that resort guests and day-tripping visitors can enjoy.

Activity options include a 27-hole golf course, a water park with slides and a lazy river, and outlet shopping at Freeport A’Famosa Outlet, home to more than 80 brands. The Safari Wonderland attraction is a mini wildlife park with walk-through areas where you can see animals. However, it also has animal shows and offers elephant rides. Mounting evidence suggests elephant rides are harmful to the animal, and animals used for shows may undergo brutal training to ‘learn’ how to perform for humans.

Ayer KerohTIME FROM MELAKA CITY: 30 MINS

Understand Malaysia through its houses

Malaysia Heritage Studios spotlights Malaysian culture and heritage using replicas of 13 traditional Malaysian houses – one for each state – highlighting their distinctive architectural features and layout.

What’s surprising are the themed selfie-friendly art installations and exhibitions in each house, such as a glowing rice field within a room or a pulsating light display featuring the national flag. Performances take place on the main stage throughout the day and showcase traditional Malay dances, songs, costumes and customs.

It’s a fun, immersive experience for the family, though tickets are pricier compared to other attractions and not all houses are open all the time.

Malaysia Heritage Studios | Cik Bak/shutterstock ©

Let loose at Melaka Botanical Garden

The sprawling, lush Melaka Botanical Garden is perfect for a picnic or a leisurely stroll. Hire a bike or buggy to explore its landscaped paths and forest trails. Some features, such as the statues of dinosaurs and reptiles, are a little rundown but make for fun photos. Mosquito repellent is a must. Keep away from the fearless macaques all around the forest.

If you’re up for some adventure, you can zip line across the forest canopy. Skytrex has three rope courses of varying levels of difficulty and length, with swinging ladder bridges, daring zip lines and even a thrilling tightrope bike ride up high. Don’t worry if you want to bail halfway through as there are built-in ‘chicken exits’ for those who need a breather.

OTHER VISIT-WORTHY SPOTS IN AYER KEROH

Melaka Butterfly & Reptile Sanctuary

Well-maintained animal sanctuary for up-close encounters with butterflies, insects, snakes and other critters.

Aborigines Museum

This small museum showcases the history and culture of Malaysia’s tribes.

Melaka Wonderland

Water park with thrilling slides and a wave pool for a family day out.

Zoo Melaka

Second-largest zoo in Malaysia, with more than 200 species of animals; it can also be visited at night.

Malacca Bee Gallery

The honey-making demos and bee breedings are a popular draw, along with the many honey samples and products available for purchase.

Otak otak vendor | Aisyaqilumaranas/shutterstock ©

THE MIGHTY MOUSE DEER OF MELAKA

The most popular theory of how Melaka got its name stems from the Malay Annals (Sejarah Melayu). While fleeing north from Temasek (an old name for Singapore), exiled Sumatran Prince Parameswara rested underneath a tree by a river. A white mouse deer appeared, and when cornered along the river bank by Parameswara’s hunting dogs, the mouse deer turned around and kicked a dog into the river.

Inspired by this oddly brave critter, Parameswara decided to found his new kingdom of Melaka along the river, naming them both for the pokok melaka tree he rested under. This legend is also reflected in Melaka’s official coat of arms, which features the Melaka tree flanked by two mouse deer.

Pulau BesarTIME FROM MELAKA CITY: 30 MINS + 15 MINS

Swim and hike a remote holy island

This small, placid island, 10km off the southeast coast of Melaka, sees mostly domestic tourists who head to the eastern shore to relax on the beach or camp. Once upon a time, infrastructure was built to welcome more visitors, but tourism has never truly taken off in Pulau Besar, partly because it’s considered a sacred place.

Tombs, such as that of Sultan Al Ariffin Syeikh Ismail, a distant relation of the Prophet Muhammad and associated with the early spread of Islam in Malaysia, lie next to the beaches. Dress modestly even if you plan to swim, which means women are advised to cover fully from neck to wrist and ankle, while men should wear board shorts that reach the knee. Don’t wear a bikini or Speedos here or you could get into serious trouble for ‘indecent acts’ – heed the many nearby signs reminding you of this, along with the ban on alcohol and gambling.

The island is mainly forest, and the remains of a golf course that sees no action but still seems to be trimmed regularly are in the centre. You can hike around the island in about two to three hours. It’s possible to walk through the abandoned European-style resort on the northwest corner of the island, which has slight apocalyptic vibes and still sees some occasional squatters.

To reach Pulau Besar, take a public ferry from Anjung Batu Jetty, located 30 minutes east of Melaka City’s historical centre by car. The public ferry runs at 8am, noon and 5pm and takes 15 minutes. Be sure to catch the 5.15pm return ferry if you don’t plan to stay overnight. You can also take Panorama bus 6A from Melaka Sentral Bus Station in the direction of Muar, but it runs only every two hours, making it less convenient. A private speedboat charter costs RM120 for up to eight people, ideal for groups or if you need more flexible timings.

MuarTIME FROM MELAKA CITY: 1 HR

History through street art

The trend of heritage-influenced street art has swept across Malaysian cities, and Muar Cultural Walk, a lane off Jln Bakri, is where its walls are coloured with history.

The Jom Ngopi mural celebrates the legacy of the local coffee shop Kopi 434, while other pieces depict local handicrafts and multicultural traditions, such as the Malay martial art of silat, the kuda kepang dance, the Chinese lion dance and aerobics, and Malay and Indian music and dance.

Street art also spills onto the walls of Maharani Mural Lane, where a roof of hanging umbrellas crisscrosses the upper section of Jln Maharani. A large mural remembers buses on a barge on the Muar River, the way locals travelled before the town had any bridges. Come in the early morning or in the evening to avoid the heat and get better light for photos.

Gorge on goodies at Glutton Street

From morning to night, Glutton Street is where woks sizzle and foodies flock for a proper taste of Muar. This 100m-long stretch of Jln Haji Abu is bookended by Jln Meriam to the north and Jln Ali to the south, and despite its size, it packs in a buffet of stir-fried, steamed, baked and fried delicacies.

Yong Kee Kopitiam dominates the northern corner and spills hawker carts on the kerb. Try stalwart Ah Kaw Satay’s juicy chicken and pork on sticks, served with delicious peanut sauce and rice cakes. To the south is Ah Choy Wan Tan Mee, whose ‘red’ wanton mee has a robust, sweet-spicy flavour. Don’t miss the thick and hearty egg noodles. On the opposite side of the road, Kedai Huat Dim Sum brings Hong Kong–style appetisers, duck and chicken rice to town.

Ending the walk south is Muar You Tiao, a favourite stall for Chinese fritters and snacks on the corner of Jln Ali. If you haven’t had enough, on the eastern corner, Kopitiam Kim Dan rustles up fried oysters and eggs, Chinese dumplings, and otak otak (ground spicy fish grilled in banana leaves).

NAMEWEE, MUAR’S GREAT OFFENDER

Controversial Malaysian-Chinese rapper and director Wee Meng Chee, better known as Namewee, hails from Muar. He came into the limelight in 2007 with the parodical song ‘I Love My Country, Negarakuku’, a wordplay between Malaysia’s national anthem and a slang term for ‘penis’.

The music video almost got him charged under the colonial-era Sedition Act, but that didn’t stop him. In 2021, his song ‘You Know Who Is My Father?’ offended thousands of Blackpink fans for a cheeky line hinting at Korea’s K-pop supergroup. The song garnered 4.5 million views and more than 68,000 YouTube comments in less than two weeks before it was taken down.

MORE MALAYSIAN STREET ART CITIES

Many Malaysian cities have jumped on the street art bandwagon to attract visitors. The trend started in 2012 in Penang’s UNESCO-inscribed George Town. Ipoh and Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown are other good places to look for murals.

HIKE GUNUNG LEDANG’S LAGENDA TRAIL

Like the tip of an imaginary triangle between Melaka and Muar, 1276m-high Gunung Ledang is Johor’s highest mountain, and the name ‘Lagenda’ hints at the myth of the fairy princess who challenged the lovelorn sultan of Melaka. You can bag the summit in about eight hours, setting off early with a guide from the park’s foothills near Sagil; call 06-963 1030 to arrange.

Follow a 1 700-step staircase. At the top, a proper jungle path starts climbing at a moderate incline. It’s easy going until the second checkpoint, 355m-high 2 Hentian Meranti. Stay on the western path to the summit when the road splits. The 2.5-hour diversion to the Kolam Gajah campsite, close to the Twin Waterfall, requires an overnight. The third checkpoint at 540m is a towering boulder called 3 Batu Orkid. The route is about to get hideously steeper: the 4 KFC checkpoint (no chicken involved; it stands for ‘Killing Fitness Centre’) has ropes and ladders to help you scramble along the semi-vertical incline. Take a breather at the next checkpoint, 5 Gua Kambing, and keep crawling over rocks and hanging ladders to 6 Batu Hampar, the most scenic part of the climb. The forest opens, and the first views of the valley below distract as hikers pull themselves up ropes hanging from the exposed boulder. The vegetation changes into a mossy tropical forest and becomes shrubby at Taman Bonsai. Checkpoint 7 is 7 Bukit Botak, a clearing at 1130m. Better views come soon, as large slabs of rocks split 8 Anjung Mahligai, the top of Ledang. Arrive early to dodge the rolling clouds and catch the views. On the other side of the peak, keep left and follow the easier loop back down.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Melaka City: Chinatown & Around

Gingerflower Boutique Hotel $ Quaint restored Peranakan townhouse with slightly small rooms but a great location. An exclusive suite for up to 10 guests is available for families.

Ringo’s Foyer $ Social hostel near Masjid Kampung Hulu known for its great atmosphere and daily tours and activities.

LEJU 21 $$ Refurbished two-room pre-war townhouse next to the bars and Kampung Jawa Bridge. Free parking.

45 Lekiu $$$ Gorgeously restored shophouse with two bedrooms with original brickwork and stylish modern interiors. Has a narrow pool.

5 Heeren Museum Residence $$$ Live the wealthy Baba-Nonya life in exquisitely refurbished Peranakan suites. Renowned for its top-notch service and good location.

Melaka City: Banda Hilir

Nest House $Cosy, ecofriendly guesthouse decorated with art by Australian creators. Find it down a lane off Jln Merdeka.

Rucksack Caratel $ Budget hotel with a fun design and a pool next to the Melaka Sultanate Palace Museum. Get a room with a view.

Rosa $$ Cool industrial chic design makes this boutique hotel a favourite among hipsters who don’t mind being a little further from the action.

Melaka City: Bukit China & Around

1825 Gallery Hotel $$ A former Chinese flour warehouse finds new life as a chic boutique hotel, with its original timber furnishings intact.

Pines Melaka $$ Enjoy sweeping views of the city in this modern hotel by the Melaka River. Cool off in a saltwater poolside suite.

Majestic Malacca $$$ Luxurious rooms with elegant furnishings, including a large clawfoot bath, in a restored 1920s Straits Settlement mansion overlooking Kampung Morten.

Ujong Pasir

Sunflower Hotel $ Clean, affordable rooms in a basic budget hotel with free parking outside the city centre.

Sojourn Guest House $ Spacious, modern rooms in a cosy hotel within walking distance of the Portuguese Settlement.

Ayer Keroh

AMES Hotel $$ Tasteful, comfortable rooms in a modern hotel with a lovely rooftop bar. Close to Ayer Keroh’s attractions but away from the bustle.

Bayou Lagoon Park Resort $$ Roomy apartments in a family-friendly resort connected to Bayou Lagoon Water Park.

Alor Gajah

Rubber Escape $$ Simple but spacious family rooms surrounded by a tranquil rubber plantation. Comes with a pool and barbecue facilities.

Orchard Wellness & Health Resort $$$ Luxurious hotel nestled amidst a lush fruit orchard. Wellness programmes include fitness classes, fruit picking and spa treatments.

Muar

Wood Boutique Hotel $ Large en-suite rooms set within a large compound, as if they were colourful cottage houses in a village.

RM Hotel $ Attractive hip hotel on the edge of town. The cheapest rooms have no windows but are well appointed, and there is a lift.

PPT Container Hotel $ Three floors of colourful container-style rooms guarded by Transformer robots are a stylish budget option on the fringes of the old town.

MUO Boutique Hotel $$ Swanky rooms in the town centre, with a ‘seafood shellout’ restaurant on the rooftop and a wooden furniture showroom in the lobby.

Johor & Tioman Island

POSTCARD-PERFECT BEACHES AND WILD NATURE

Peninsular Malaysia’s southernmost state remains offbeat, but its white-sand islands, the country’s second-largest national park and a booming capital city all scream for attention.

Pulau Marwar | yusuf madi/shutterstock ©

The third-largest state in Peninsular Malaysia and the country’s most populous is still a big unknown for travellers who only breeze through the capital, Johor Bahru, on their way to or from Singapore, just across the bay. But Johor Bahru’s historic temples, mosques and charming old town filled with modern cafes already prove that it’s worth taking your time. Look around and see palaces, landmarks and architecture mixing Islamic and Victorian motifs, a hint to the healthy relationship that the early Sultan Abu Bakar and his successor Ibrahim maintained with the British colonists from the second half of the 19th century until Malaysia’s independence in 1957.

Azaruddin Hajumat/shutterstock ©

Johor’s true forlorn beauty awaits out of the city and along the state’s 400km coastline that embraces both the Strait of Melaka and the South China Sea. The latter is where the turquoise-ringed islands of the Seribuat Archipelago float off the coast like white, sandy crumbs on the surface of a crystal-clear cocktail. Just to the north is a popular favourite, Tioman Island. Part of Pahang state, it’s primarily accessible by ferry from the quaint port of Mersing in northeastern Johor.

The resort-laden Desaru Coast in the state’s southeastern corner has long been a hit with Malaysian and Singaporean families. Still, it awaits more international guests, as do Johor’s mangrove-draped west coast and the languid rivers and jungle-clad hills rising at its centre.

THE MAIN AREAS

JOHOR BAHRU

Heritage past meets futuristic city.

TIOMAN ISLAND

Sand, surf and jungle hikes.

MERSING & THE COAST

Island hop to paradise.

ENDAU-ROMPIN NATIONAL PARK

Wild elephants and indigenous culture.

Find Your Way

Johor is Peninsular Malaysia’s southernmost tip, a largely flat and swampy plain surrounded by sea and broken up by a string of central hills. To the northeast, the Endau River runs through the protected jungles of Endau-Rompin National Park.

Plan Your Time

Most attractions are within two to three hours by car from Johor Bahru, so you can hop to different islands, beaches and jungles daily.

Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque | Hadi h/shutterstock ©

Short on Time

Spend a day in Johor Bahru taking in the temples, architecture and hip cafes of the Heritage District. The following day, hire a car and drive to Kukup Island National Park, not forgetting to stand on mainland Asia’s southernmost tip at Tanjung Piai National Park. Save the last day for the Desaru Coast and float down the Lebam River amongst the evening fireflies.

A Week Between Jungle & Sea

After a day in Johor Bahru, brave the two-hour 4WD ride to Kampung Peta and Endau-Rompin National Park. After a longboat ride and fording the river, camp in the jungle at Kuala Marong. Leave the park for Mersing, an hour away. Head to Tioman Island and a beach chalet.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

JANUARY

The wet season shuts off the islands and floods nature reserves. At Juara Beach surfers compete in the Tioman Surf Festival.

FEBRUARY & MARCH

Johor Bahru’s Chingay Parade is at the end of the Lunar New Year. Johor International Kite Festival is held in Pasir Gudang.

JULY

Little rain; it can be sweltering hot. The Bon Odori Festival brings Japanese culture to the outskirts of Johor Bahru.

SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER

Chinese communities celebrate the Nine Emperor Festival with devotees marching through most towns.

Johor Bahru

HISTORIC TEMPLES | TOP-NOTCH MUSEUMS | HIP OLD TOWN

Johor’s capital city (JB for short) sits at the southern tip of the state, right across the causeway bridge to Singapore. For years, JB was criticised as a dirty and chaotic border town, but these days, it has rebranded itself and offers a handful of fascinating museums, temples and mosques. Most sights pepper the charming lanes of the Heritage District, a blend of historic architecture, popular eateries and hip street art, all a few minutes’ walk to JB Sentral, the mall-like southern terminus of Peninsular Malaysia’s West Coast railway, connected to the immigration checkpoint with Singapore. It makes sense to base yourself here, as most hotels and points of interest are all within walking distance to the central and historical Jln Trus.

Beyond the old town, the city sprawls into a barrage of high rises, including the booming Danga Bay, symbolising JB’s continuous marathon to catch up with its futuristic southern neighbour.

SIGHTS

1  Arulmigu Rajamariamman Devasthanam

2  Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliamman

3  Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim

4  Chinese Heritage Museum

5  Gurdwara Sahib

6  Johor Bahru Old Chinese Temple

7  Royal Abu Bakar Museum

SLEEPING

8  Amari

9  Attrus B&B

10  Citrus Hotel

11  Hilton DoubleTree

12  Hotel CIQ

EATING

13  Hiap Joo Bakery & Biscuit Factory

See 16  Merah Kitchen & Bar

14  The Replacement

See 17  Restoran Muthu

15  Tong Guan Nyonya Kopitiam

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

16  Lucky Cat

SHOPPING

17  Pasar Karat

GETTING AROUND

Senai Airport is 32km northeast of the city centre. The main bus terminal to greater Malaysia is Larkin, 5km north of the Heritage District, while KTM Intercity trains connect the border checkpoint at JB Sentral with Kuala Lumpur. Slower diesel-powered trains chug to Wakaf Bharu in Kelantan. Walking around the compact Heritage District is easy, while the outlying sites are best reached using ride-hailing apps such as Grab.

Pay Homage at Johor Bahru’s Old Temples

Visit the city’s historic shrines

Tucked in the middle of the main thoroughfare of Jln Trus, Johor Bahru Old Chinese Temple is more than 130 years old. It was once the centre of JB’s Chinese immigrant community and used by five different ethnic groups to worship five different Chinese gods. Not much is left of the original masonry, but the inside hosts some rare antiques. Hundreds of devotees flock here in the first lunar month of every year when it becomes the epicentre of a large procession honouring the five deities featuring Chingay performances.

Not too far away on Lg 1 is Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliamman, a stunning Hindu temple dedicated to Kali, the goddess of change, power, time and destruction. The temple is entirely built from mirrors, glass and metal – all of the walls and vaulted roofs are adorned, including 300,000 Rudraksha beads imported from Nepal. First established in 1922 as a humble Indian shrine, the idea to cover it in glass came to Guru Bhagawan Sittar when, during a trip to Bangkok, Thailand, he came across a striking glass artwork at the entrance of a local Buddhist temple and had the idea to revamp Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliamman to its present dazzling grandeur. The shrine made it into the Malaysia Book of Records as the first glass temple in the country.

TOP TIP

If you are coming to Johor Bahru from Singapore, pick your dates wisely. On weekends and public holidays, travelling Singaporeans and Malaysian workers returning home can create long lines at immigration and traffic on the 1km Causeway. Check traffic forecasts on checkpoint.sg.

STREET ART POLICE

Many murals spruce up Jln Tan Hiok Nee and Jln Trus in Johor Bahru’s Heritage District. The artworks are inspired by culture, life and heritage in the city, from teh tarik (pulled milk tea) makers to Malay dancers.

Like elsewhere in Malaysia, artists cannot go too wild. In 2013 Johor Bahru’s authorities covered up a mural by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic, who was invited after a series of murals went viral in George Town, Penang. Painted on the two sides of a street corner, the mural depicted two Lego figures – a woman carrying a designer handbag and a robber wielding a knife – ‘celebrating’ the city’s famous theme park and high crime rate. Despite public outcry, the artwork was removed.

Explore the Heritage District

Old ways meet urban cool

The historic area between Jln Ibrahim and Jln Ungku Puan is what you’ll remember most of Johor Bahru. Start from Jln Trus, going past Gurdwara Sahib. Turn west uphill to Bukit Timbalan to have a peek at Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim, an imposing mix of Islamic and British colonial motifs completed in 1942 and used as a fortress by the Japanese in WWII.

Return to Jln Trus to admire the ornate carvings of the tall gopuram (tower) entranceway of the Arulmigu Rajamariamman Devasthanam Hindu temple and then lose yourself in the Heritage District proper past colourful old shophouses filled with barbers, Ayurvedic salons, Chinese eateries, sari shops, and side lanes spruced with modern street art and hip cafes.

In the district’s southwestern corner is the interesting Chinese Heritage Museum, with well-organised English language displays on the history of Chinese immigrants, from Cantonese carpenters to Hakka medicine traders, and the Hainanese who started the city’s coffee shop trend that survives to this day. Pasar Karat hosts a lively night market.

Browse the Galleries of the Royal Abu Bakar Museum

Check out the sultan’s collection

The main palace of the royal family of Johor, the stunning Istana Besar was built in Victorian style by Anglophile Sultan Abu Bakar in 1866. Inside, the Royal Abu Bakar Museum shows off a collection of more than 60,000 pieces displaying the family’s incredible wealth.

Set on 53 hectares of perfectly tended grounds, the museum is one of the finest galleries of its kind in the whole country. After being closed for renovations for years, it’s awaiting an imminent reopening to be officiated by the sultan himself. Even if it’s not open, it’s worth looking at the beautiful Anglo-Malay architecture of the Istana from the outside, featuring a Malay-styled dome and a blue roof of British influence contrasting above the white-washed facade.

DRINKING IN JOHOR BAHRU: OUR PICKS

Lucky Cat Enter from the vintage telephone booth at the back of Merah Kitchen Bar to pet cats, enjoy a silent disco, and drink a mean cocktail.

Whisky House Live bands and a serious collection of spirits to try a night out in JB’s suburbia.

Haairo Usagi A discreet door marked 75A on Jln Maju introduces this Japanese-style bar with a sleek ambience and classic cocktails.

Sky 26 Open-air rooftop bar on the 26th floor of the Holiday Villa hotel, with live bands and panoramic views of the city’s skyline.

Arulmigu Rajamariamman Devasthanam Hindu temple | Tang Yan Song/shutterstock ©

A Victorian-Inspired Mosque on a Hill

Visit Masjid Sultan Abu Bakar

Perched on a hill overlooking the causeway and surrounded by the peaceful Zahara Botanic Gardens, the Victorian-inspired Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque was built between 1892 and 1900 and is one of the most peculiar in the area. Only Muslim worshippers are allowed inside, but others can admire its fine exterior of whitewashed walls and a blue-tiled roof, and stroll the surrounding gardens.

GETTING TO SINGAPORE

While a 4km Rapid Transit System (RTS) Link connecting Johor Bahru’s Bukit Chagar station to Singapore’s Woodlands North station should be operating by December 2026, border-hopping buses and Shuttle Tebrau KTM trains travel from JB Sentral across the Causeway to Singapore’s Woodlands, Kranji MRT and Queen St.

Clear immigration at JB Sentral and board a bus (Causeway Link and Transtar Cross Border are recommended) right before the Causeway. Simply tap a contactless card to pay a discounted fare for your ride. You have to disembark with your luggage, clear Singapore immigration using automated gates and pay an additional fare to continue your journey into the city-state. The hardiest of travellers can also walk across the bridge.

EATING IN JOHOR BAHRU’S HERITAGE DISTRICT: OUR PICKS

Restoran Muthu $ Try a variety of Indian food, from banana-leaf rice to rice pancake dosa and roti canai (flaky, flat bread).

Hiap Joo Bakery & Biscuit Factory $ Buns and banana cakes baked by Chinese aunties working hard right beyond the doorstep.

Merah Kitchen & Bar $$ Accessed through the door of a vending machine, this cafe dishes up Asian fusion and Western dishes.

Tong Guan Nyonya Kopitiam $$ Peranakan mains and breakfast faves such as roti kahwin (coconut jam and butter toast) coffee and toast.

Beyond Johor Bahru

Get off the beaten track in Peninsular Malaysia’s southernmost tip, where deserted beaches, languid rivers and natural wonders await exploration.

Few stop in Johor Bahru, and even fewer make time for what lies around it. Leave the city in any direction, and busy skylines soon thaw into a mix of green hills, meandering waterways, small towns, and some of the peninsula’s less-explored coastline. Johor Bahru sits at the tip of a diamond of undiscovered wonders, hemmed to the east by the long quiet beaches of resort-laden Desaru Coast, to the west by the mangrove-draped mudflats of Kukup Island and Tanjung Piai National Park (mainland Asia’s southernmost point), and sheltered by the green hills of Gunung Pulai and Panti nature reserves to the north.

GETTING AROUND

Johor Bahru’s Larkin Terminal has direct buses to Legoland, Desaru’s Bandar Penawar Bus Station and Pontian, from where buses continue to Kukup, 20km south. The free Desaru Coast shuttle bus makes a beeline between Adventure Waterpark and the gate of each resort hourly, but the most time-effective way to explore is by hiring a car or using Grab from Johor Bahru. However, hailing a return ride with fewer vehicles in the countryside might prove difficult.

LegolandTIME FROM JOHOR BAHRU: 20 MINS

Succumb to the bricks of Legoland

Asia’s first Legoland is only 19km from Johor Bahru, and it’s the perfect theme park to entertain the kids for a couple of days. Legoland has more than 70 rides and attractions, plus a waterpark that can be visited separately or as part of a package.

The centrepiece is Miniland, where miniature Lego versions of regional landmarks, such as the Petronas Towers and Singapore’s Merlion, make quite an impression. Direct buses to Legoland depart from JB Sentral and Larkin Sentral bus terminals, or catch a Grab from JB’s city centre.

Gunung PulaiTIME FROM JOHOR BAHRU: 1 HR

A waterfall, plus birds and monkeys galore

The closest forest reserve to the city is the buzzing, thick jungle of 654m-high Gunung Pulai, which can be accessed without guides or permits from the Gunung Pulai 1 entrance near Kulai. The best time to come is in the early morning, when the forest fills with the calls of the resident white-handed gibbons and you have better chances to spot and photograph birds.

Take the sweaty walk up the tar road that reaches the peak in about an hour. A waterfall beckons hikers just 1km into the trek. Like other forests managed by the Johor Forestry Department, permits and a licensed mountain guide are required to enter the actual jungle trail, and both need a few days of advanced preparation and some degree of Malay fluency.

Legoland | Majestix b/shutterstock ©

KukupTIME FROM JOHOR BAHRU: 1 HR

Explore an isle of mangroves at Kukup Island National Park

Facing the diminutive port of Kukup, a getaway to Sumatra in Indonesia, the viridian-shell-shaped islet of Pulau Kukup is one of the world’s largest inhabited mangrove areas and features 27 species. It’s also a favourite resting spot for migratory birds and was declared a Ramsar site in 2003. It costs RM20 to visit and is closed on Thursdays.

The best time to visit is between October and March when the island is visited by redshanks, whimbrels and the large, bare-headed lesser adjutant stork.

Bumboats ferry visitors across the strait through floating fish farms from the small jetty hidden behind the row of shops to the south of Kukup International Ferry Terminal. A boardwalk leads onto the island through the mouth of the Ular River and onto an 18m-high observation tower, granting bird’s-eye views above this unique plant and water ecosystem inhabited by many species of mudskippers, crabs and lonely macaques.

TO INDONESIA BY BOAT

Smack in the centre of Kukup, Kukup International Ferry Terminal connects Johor with two ports on the island of Pulau Karimun in central Sumatra – Tanjung Balai Karimun and Selat Panjang – from where Indonesian boats continue to Pekanbaru via the Riau Archipelago.

The leading operator is BFerries (bferries.com), which runs five daily services from Kukup to Tanjung Balai Karimun and one to Selat Panjang, leaving at 3pm. The journey takes about one hour. Indonesian visas, valid for 30 days and extendable once for another month, are available on arrival at Tanjung Balai Karimun for US$35 or the equivalent in local currencies, or it can be pre-purchased online at molina.imigrasi.go.id.

Stand at the southernmost tip of mainland Asia

The Ramsar-designated site of Tanjung Piai National Park is among the most important wetlands in the world for migratory birds. It is draped with 29 different species of mangroves and is just 15km south of Kukup Island.

The best time to get up-close and personal with exemplars of the 51 different species that stop on this southernmost point of Peninsular Malaysia on their way to Australia and New Zealand is early morning before 9am. Expect to spot the Eurasian curlew, little heron, whimbrel, redshank, common sandpiper, egret and – with some luck – the rare black baza.

The other main reason people come to this national park is the cape’s fame as mainland Asia’s southernmost tip; an iron-rod globe sculpture marks the point. The main boardwalk, accessible by wheelchairs that are also available on-site, leads visitors above mangrove-studded mudflats to a viewpoint where you can see Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia’s Karimun Island.

TO SINGAPORE BY BOAT

Given its fame as a holiday spot for Singaporeans, the Desaru Coast is also a handy entry and exit point between Johor and the city-state.

Except for Tuesdays and Wednesdays, Batamfast (batamfast.com) runs daily trips between Singapore’s southwestern port of Tanah Merah and the Desaru Coast Ferry Terminal, a five-minute drive from most resorts. Departures leave Singapore at 8.30am and return from Desaru at 5.30 pm.

If you’re going to Singapore, pre-fill your Arrival Card (eservices.ica.gov.sg/sgarrivalcard) and remember that a ticket out of the country may be required to let you board the ferry. Upon arrival in Tanah Merah, most travellers can use automatic immigration gates without getting their passports stamped.

Panti Forest ReserveTIME FROM JOHOR BAHRU: 1 HR

Bird-watching under a tabletop mountain

The northeastern part of Panti Forest Reserve is a bird-watching haven, where patience and luck can help you spot rare species such as the Malaysian rail-babbler, the cinnamon-rumped trogon and the great argus. A gallery dedicated to the rare species found in the park is worth visiting.

Because travellers must apply for a permit (RM30) from Kota Tinggi’s Forestry Department at least three days before their visit, it’s easier to organise a bird-watching tour by contacting JungleWalla Desaru (junglewalladesaru.com) from the Desaru Coast. Knowledgeable, sharp-eyed, English-speaking guides run the tours along the reserve’s main Bunker Trail in 4WD vehicles.

Desaru CoastTIME FROM JOHOR BAHRU: 1 HR

Glide along the Lebam River

The Lebam, a tributary of the Johor River, snakes inland towards the Desaru Coast, and it’s a lovely spot to see local birds, crab-eating macaques, mudskippers and a healthy mangrove ecosystem.

JungleWalla Desaru organises trips ranging from leisurely two-hour boat explorations upriver to more challenging half-day kayaking outings, which also venture inside the tiny mangrove-draped side canals of the main river when the tide is high for closer encounters with local wildlife.

Bujang Firefly, a charming floating Malay restaurant near the JungleWalla Desaru Jetty, also organises lunches and dinners in floating boats and evening firefly-spotting cruises along the river banks. It’s best to go on moonless nights for more visibility of the glow.

Plant trees for a good cause

At first glance, you might see more sunloungers and swimming pools than forest in Desaru, but the coast still hides plenty of wildlife. Camera-trap footage has revealed the passage of tapir, wild cats and other small mammals, but they need more habitat to thrive.

Rewild Desaru is an initiative spearheaded by JungleWalla Desaru and partnering hotels focusing on the ecological restoration of the coast and promoting sustainability through tourism and tree-planting. Gardeners care for the trees you help plant, which provide a long-term home and food for insects, bees and birds.

Water slide bonanza

Kids and parents can have a whale of a time at the sprawling Adventure Waterpark, set on the Desaru Coast amidst the five-star resorts. Included in the park’s more than 20 wet and dry rides is a notable 30m-high water coaster – the first in the region – a swinging pirate ship and a 1.2-hectare wave pool that’s among the largest in the world.

Tioman Island

BEACHES | DIVING & SNORKELLING | COASTAL HIKES

Legend says that when a Chinese dragon princess stopped to rest on the way to her prince in Singapore, the island of Tioman was born, the biggest in a group of volcanic islands 50km off Johor’s northeastern coast.

Sparsely inhabited, Tioman is covered mainly by a 130-million-year-old virgin rainforest and sloshing waterfalls, and it holds a bounty of species, some of which are endemic. They can be found on the hiking trails that snake along the coast and across the canopies and peaks of the island’s densely forested interior.

On the shore, laid-back villages and resorts line beaches lapped by the ever-changing greens and turquoise of a sea where you can dive, snorkel, kayak, paddle and sail. Tekek village on Tioman’s east coast is where ferries from Mersing (in Johor) and Tanjung Gemok (in Pahang) arrive. At 20km long and 11km wide, Tioman Island is big enough to offer all travellers what they are looking for.

SIGHTS

1  Air Batang Beach

2  Ali’s Waterfall

3  Asah Waterfall

4  Genting Beach

5  Juara Beach

6  Monkey Bay

7  Monkey Beach

8  Mukut Beach

9  Panuba Beach

10  Paya Beach

11  Pulau Tomok

12  Tekek Beach

13  Teluk Genting

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

14  ABC to Salang Trail

15  Coral Island

See 27  Freedive Tioman

16  Gunung Kajang

17  Juara Turtle Project

18  Long Beach

19  Nenek Semukut Trail

20  Renggis Island

21  Soyak Island

SLEEPING

22  Aman Tioman Beach Resort

23  Bamboo Hill Chalets

24  Berjaya Tioman Resort

25  Nazri’s Place

26  Paya Debloc Village

27  Swiss Cottage Resort

28  X Rector Minsu

EATING

29  AF Cafe

See 27  Chinese Sarang Seafood

30  Kenyalang Smoke House Cafe

31  Sunset Corner

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

32  B&J Beach Bar

33  Paya Cafe Corner

34  Skybar

35  Sunset Bar

INFORMATION

36  Marine Park Information Centre

Tioman Island | Anna Selina/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

Daily ferries from the mainland serve Tioman’s main east coast beach settlements. Juara and Mukut have direct routes. A mix of paved roads and hiking paths connect the east coast from northernmost Salang to Genting, passing via Kampung Air Batang (called ABC), Tekek and Paya, but Naga Shuttle ferries (nagashuttle.com) are much faster. Rental motorbikes are helpful to move between ABC village and Berjaya Tioman Resort, but avoid the hazardous trans-island road to Juara Beach. Hike from Tekek or hire a 4WD taxi.

TOP TIP

When travelling from Mersing or Tanjung Gemok to Tioman, it’s best to book ferry tickets in advance at bluewater.my or cataferry.com (available from March to September only). On the island, most hotel operators can get return tickets and help change dates.

Snorkel at Coral Island

Island-hop to see the best marine life

Tioman’s best reefs surround Pulau Tulai, better known as Coral Island, an uninhabited island to the northwest of Tioman, ringed by transparent waters and the best-preserved corals in the archipelago. Renggis Island, across from Berjaya Tioman Resort, used to have beautiful staghorn corals until a mighty storm destroyed much of the reef in 2021.

Many operators run daily trips to Coral Island starting at 10am and returning by 4pm, and supply snorkelling gear. The standard itinerary has six stops, including Coral Island, Long Beach and Teluk Genting. They touch down at Salang for lunch before hopping to Soyak Island, where sightings of reef sharks and turtles are almost guaranteed.

Some boats also make a final stop at Monkey Bay. Shorter three- to four-hour trips start in the late afternoon for Renggis and Tomok islands, where there’s an opportunity to swim with the many reef sharks.

Plunge into the Deep Blue

Dive Tioman’s waters

The underwater world around Tioman Island, especially off its eastern side, offers some of the best and most accessible diving and snorkelling in Malaysia and is one of the few places to see dolphin pods. March to June is the best time to dive because there is no wind and the water is clean and calm.

Every beach has plenty of excellent dive centres, with the highest concentration on Paya, offering Open Water Diver (OWD) certification courses. For freediving, Freedive Tioman, based out of Tekek’s Swiss Cottage Resort, is an excellent place to start. Experienced divers shouldn’t miss HMS Repulse and HMS Prince of Wales, two challenging WWII-era wreck sites about 85km north of Tioman.

TOP DIVING & SNORKELLING SITES

Abect, local dive instructor and owner of Abect Aqua Dive Centre, names his favourite spots. @abectaquadivecentre

Renggis Island

The most popular for beginners and snorkellers as it’s easy, with clean water, many corals, and almost guaranteed chances to spot turtles and sharks.

Chebeh Island

This is where you can see the big stuff. In March and October, whale sharks pass by Chebeh as they migrate to and from Thailand. For experienced divers, the KM Sipadan wreck is a fantastic underwater playground at 30m. You can swim inside as you peek at large schools of yellow wrasse.

Coral Island

Nice for snorkellers. Coral Island’s Mini Maldives Bay has pure white sand and transparent water.

Get Away From it All

Hike to secluded Monkey Beach and Monkey Bay

An easy way to experience Tioman’s rainforest and end up on empty, sweeping bays is to hike from Kampung Air Batang (ABC) towards Salang and stop midway at Monkey Beach.

The trail starts next to Bamboo Hill Chalets, going up the headland to empty and secluded Panuba Beach. Continue for 1.8km along the coastal jungle trail that follows the grey electric pipes to tumble into Monkey Beach, an open crescent of ochre sand with rocks on the sides of the bay that make for an excellent snorkelling spot.

Another 1.6km up and over the headland is the larger, equally unspoiled Monkey Bay. It’s not as good as Monkey Beach for snorkelling, but bring a towel and some food, and have a picnic on the sand. From here, Salang is another 1.5km across the headland.

EATING IN TIOMAN ISLAND: OUR PICKS

AF Cafe $ Popular ABC beachfront cafe serving Malaysian and Western dishes, from nasi goreng (fried rice) to fish and chips.

Paya Cafe Corner $ Paya’s most chilled spot is right by the jetty, serving Malaysian mains and a wide selection of Ramly brgers.

Kenyalang Smoke House Cafe $$ This Borneo-inspired shack smokes roasted chicken in a garden by ABC’s northern stretch of beach.

Chinese Sarang Seafood $$ Tekek’s local Chinese joint for scrumptious Malaysian dishes and seafood fresh off a small barbecue pit.

WHEN TO VISIT

Susan Hills, Tioman Island resident for 30 years and owner of Bamboo Hill Chalets, breaks down the island’s seasons. @bamboohilltioman

In February and March, many resorts and dive shops are closed. April to June is the best time to visit – not yet high season but with great weather and high tides in the middle of the day.

In July and August, book accommodation in advance, even though stronger winds don’t make for the best weather. September and October are delightfully quieter, but the weather is unpredictable.

November to January is the low season. Rough seas mean a high risk of ferry cancellations, no snorkelling trips, and few open restaurants. But on Juara, large waves are perfect for the yearly surf festival.

Cool Down at a Waterfall

Swim at Asah and Ali

One of Tioman’s most prominent attractions and nature draws is the stunning Asah Waterfall on the southern coast, reachable by trekking for 2.3km from the village of Mukut. If you don’t want to stay here, visiting the falls as a half-day trip is possible by leaving any east coast beach on the first Naga Shuttle departing at about 8am and disembarking at Mukut to hike and enjoy the falls. Have lunch in Mukut and hop on the last northbound ferry in the early afternoon.

Sloshing midway between Tekek and Juara, Ali’s Waterfall is a perfect picnic spot on the island’s transversal 7km trekking route.

Climb the Dragon’s Horns

Chase legends to the top of Tioman’s twin peaks

Soaring like the horns of the legendary dragon princess who transformed into Tioman Island, the two twin limestone peaks of Nenek Semukut dominate the southern coast’s landscape behind Mukut village. It takes about three hours to reach one of the two 703m-high peaks via a 3km hiking trail with 10 well-marked checkpoints.

Checkpoint 4 is close to Batu Kapal, a large boulder that can be climbed using a set of iron ladders. Views start opening on the coast below from Checkpoint 8 and become breathtaking near the top. The pinnacle can be conquered only by expert climbers. Guides (RM80, including RM50 entry fee) are available in Mukut village.

Run for the Hills

Join Tioman’s racing competition

Sporty types take note: the Tioman Ultra is a trail-running event created by local enthusiasts to highlight the island’s bounty of forgotten backcountry routes. Suitable for trail runners of all levels, the Tioman Ultra offers 10km, 25km and 50km races that usually start from ABC toward Paya, climb to the peak of 1038m-high Gunung Kajang (Tioman’s highest mountain), descend to Paya, cross to Juara and return to ABC following the 11km Dragon Back Trail, a route not yet open to the public.

The event takes place in a different month each year. Check facebook.com/tiomanultra or contact Ben Hills, president of Kelab Gunung Pulau Tioman (WhatsApp 019-952 4392 or kgptioman@gmail.com).

DRINKING IN TIOMAN ISLAND: OUR PICKS

Sunset Corner Happening ABC evening spot spilling chairs on the sand and famous for its sundowners and beachside pizzas.

B&J Beach Bar Annexed to its namesake dive centre, this is a convivial bar to while away the night with a mixed crowd of locals and foreigners.

Sunset Bar The beach-facing part of Paya’s Aman Resort has a charming seaside deck with thumping dance beats and cold beers.

Skybar The rooftop bar of the Barat resort has sweeping views of Juara, pairing well with sunsets and cocktails.

Nenek Semukut | Abedauh/shutterstock ©

Volunteer to Help Sea Turtles

Engage in local marine conservation

To the south of the large Barat Tioman Beach Resort is the long-running Juara Turtle Project (juaraturtleproject.com), which offers volunteer conservation programs. Most of the work done here is monitoring and researching the sea turtle population that returns to Tioman’s beaches to lay eggs, beach clean-ups and a successful coral rehabilitation program on an artificial substrate. Volunteers pay to work here, helping fund the centre’s activities.

TIOMAN’S BEST BEACHES

Juara

The west coast’s only beach is long, wide and the most backpacker-friendly, with bars, fire shows and late-night entertainment.

Air Batang (ABC)

Nothing beats ABC’s quiet village atmosphere with plenty of restaurants and beachside bars.

Tekek

Busy village vibes, with the island’s only ATM and more restaurants and transport available than other beaches.

Paya

Packed with resorts and diving centres, Paya is where loud music and parties go on late into the night.

Genting

More sedate, with fewer resorts than other beaches, and focused on local tourists.

Mukut

A relatively undeveloped spot for climbing, with an upcoming resort development near Asah Waterfall.

Mersing & the Coast

BEACHES | SCUBA DIVING | ISLAND-HOPPING

Tioman gets the spotlight, but the rest of the Seribuat Archipelago, a constellation of 62 islands fanning off the east coast of Johor, are far less visited tropical speckles of tranquillity. Divers can prepare for a killer list of sites teeming with marine life, ranging from butterflyfish and parrotfish to barracuda, and some of the region’s most transparent waters. Keen snorkellers can also get in on the action, island-hopping and kicking their fins in gin-clear water.

It all starts in Mersing, the compact, thriving fishing town, where ferries head to Tioman and most of the archipelago’s other worthwhile islands. Banks, supermarkets, restaurants and shops are available in town at the best bang for your ringgit, but don’t treat Mersing just as a necessary pit stop before your island explorations. Enticing cuisine, long and empty beaches, and friendly folks may tempt you to look around longer.

SIGHTS

1  Pantai Air Papan

2  Pulau Mawar

3  Tanjung Penyabon

4  Teluk Buih Fishermen Jetty

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

5  Gunung Arong

6  Mersing Tourism Association

SLEEPING

7  Hotel Embassy

8  Myra Hotel

EATING

9  Calypso Cafe

10  Loke Tien Yuen

11  Restoran Syed Ali

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12  History 1984 Cafe & Bistro

GETTING AROUND

Mersing’s bus station connects to cities and towns all over Malaysia, and the town’s centre is so compact and walkable that you hardly ever need a car or a Grab. You can walk anywhere, and the jetty to Tioman is a five-minute walk from most accommodation in town. A vehicle or Grab comes in handy to visit islands such as Pulau Sibu, as boats depart from another jetty at Tanjung Leman, about 65km south of town, to reach far-flung beaches such as Pantai Air Papan, 15km to the north of Mersing town.

Sun, Propellers & Islands

Island-hop from Mersing

The best way to see a lot of the Seribuat Archipelago is to join one of the island-hopping tours organised by the Mersing Tourism Association. Its office is inside the Mersing Harbour Centre, where you pay for marine park fees and boat tickets. Tours leave at 8am and return at around 4pm, touching down on four islands: Harimau, Hujung, Tengah and Besar. Shorter tours go to Tengah, Hujung (where you have lunch) and Besar, returning to Mersing by 2pm.

TOP TIP

Mersing’s parking system uses hourly or daily paper coupons that are not always readily available from shops around town. Use the guarded parking lots by the ferry terminal, where attendants can always spare some coupons.

Archipelago Adventures

Revel at Pulau Sibu’s islands

This cluster of islands (Pulau Sibu Besar, Pulau Sibu Kukus, Pulau Sibu Tengah, Pulau Tengah and Pulau Sibu Hujung) has good diving and a wide choice of beachside resorts. Transportation is dependent on these resorts, which run their own scheduled ferry services from the remote Tanjung Leman Jetty about 65km south of town, from where it’s a 20-minute boat ride to the main islet, Pulau Sibu Besar.

Some 10km northeast of Pulau Sibu Besar is splendid Pulau Tinggi, an extinct volcano whose 600m-high cone soars above the jungle. Pulau Sibu’s resorts offer day trips with excellent snorkelling and a trek to a beautiful waterfall.

TOP SIGHT

Endau-Rompin National Park

The peninsula’s second-largest wilderness area (after the more developed Taman Negara) spills 870 sq km of waterfall-laden, 248-million-year-old rainforest across the Endau River marking the Johor-Pahang state border. As it’s more challenging to access, far fewer visitors come here than Taman Negara, making this reserve’s offbeat waterways, trails and rich indigenous culture a boon for adventure and wildlife encounters.

Upeh Guling Falls | Mardy838/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for information on Johor’s national parks.

DON’T MISS

Kampung Peta

Kuala Marong Circuit

Upeh Guling Falls

Buaya Sangkut Waterfall

Seri Mahkota Falls

Rompin Rainforest Lodge

Padang Tujuh

Park Entrances

After devastating floods hit much of the area at the beginning of 2023, the park has recovered, but much has changed. It now has two entrances: Endau-Rompin National Park Peta Entrance in the south and Rompin State Park in the north, across the Pahang state border and accessed by driving 30km inland from Kuala Rompin on a sealed road.

Kampung Peta

The only way to access Endau-Rompin National Park in Johor is from the Jakun Orang Asli village of Kampung Peta, which sits next to the park headquarters. A Rainforest Discovery Centre opened in 2024, and has exhibits on local nature and animals, while a Nature Education and Research Centre caters to researchers. Chalet accommodation is available. Entry permits cost RM20.

To get to the park, first stop in the small town of Kahang (which has a couple of simple budget hotels). Johor Parks Peta Office organises the two-hour 4WD drive (call 07-788 2812 or email tnjerpeta@gmail.com) to the entrance along an unpaved logging track, which should be sealed by 2025.

Kuala Marong Circuit

The Kuala Marong Circuit is perfect for those with only one day in Peta because the main park attractions of Upeh Guling Falls (which cascade into famed ‘stone bathtubs’) and Tasik Air Biru (a crystal-clear pool filled with Kelah fish) are only a 10-minute walk from the camp.

Boats take visitors to Kuala Jasin, from where it’s about a 4km trek to Kuala Marong. You’ll have to ford the Jasin River twice, so bring a swimsuit and rubber footwear, and prepare for high water levels.

Buaya Sangkut Waterfall

The spectacular Buaya Sangkut Waterfall is a challenging 10.7km hike from Kuala Jasin. It is best tackled by setting out early in the morning after an overnight at Kuala Marong’s campsite. Reaching the falls takes about eight hours round-trip.

After 1.6km upriver is Batu Hampar, a scenic small waterfall along the riverbank, and another 2.4km from here is Takah Kunyit, the first waterfall enclosed by boulders. It’s a pretty sight, but nothing compared to thundering Buaya Sangkut, 2.2km away across a steep hill. Allow at least 3.5 hours to return to Kuala Marong.

Rompin State Park

This park entrance across the state border in Pahang is dominated by the upmarket Rompin Rainforest Lodge, set next to an 80m-long suspended bridge and a 15m-high watchtower. You pick and pay for each activity on offer, from trekking to kayaking. The poster child is the stunning 50m-high Seri Mahkota Falls, about 2km of trekking from headquarters, or a five-minute drive back towards the park’s gate and descending via a boardwalk to the main pool.

The campsite of Jeram Panjang is a gentle 3.4km out-and-back jungle trek along the Kinching River following elephant tracks. The most impressive hike, however, is the 6km return trip to Padang Tujuh. You pull yourself up through dipterocarps until the vegetation suddenly changes to Johannes palms and soon explodes in a garden of impressive Livistona, the wide, multifeathered palm variety you picture dinosaurs walking past on their way to lunch. At the end of the ascent, a plateau of dry heath forest hosts all sizes of colourful pitcher plants and orchids.

ETIQUETTE

The Jakun people, one of Peninsular Malaysia’s 18 Orang Asli groups who traditionally settle in forests and along rivers, live in Endau-Rompin and the surrounding areas. Jakun people prefer to be referred to as Orang Ulu (meaning ‘people of the upstream’) because in Bahasa Malaysia, the word jakun has the derogatory meaning of ‘slave’ or ‘unsophisticated person’.

TOP TIPS

• Guides, available at park headquarters, are compulsory on all trails and are included in the cost of each excursion.

• Endau-Rompin is full of wildlife, which attracts aggressive leeches. Bring leech socks, especially for multiday treks.

• Locals use regular vehicles to drive to Kampung Peta in the dry season, but consider the risks of damaging a hire car before following them.

• Camping facilities at Kuala Marong are basic. Come with everything you need.

• If you are looking for a more effortless jungle experience, Rompin State Park in Pahang is best.

• From mid-November to mid-January, the park is affected by floods, and visiting is not recommended.

Divers, Pulau Aur | Fuad Abd Kadir/shutterstock ©

BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN MERSING

Pantai Air Papan

Wide beach 15km north of Mersing’s town centre, suitable for picnicking, walking and camping.

Gunung Arong

Forest reserve with a 1km hike to a viewing platform for stunning views of the coast. Mersing’s Forestry Department issues permits.

Pulau Mawar

An island you can walk to at low tide. The stunning rock arch, Heaven’s Gate, is a photographer’s dream.

Tanjung Penyabong

Northwest of Pulau Mawar, this stunning cape is hemmed by Pelandok, Aceh and Tengah islands, with campsites and homestays by the beach.

Teluk Buih Fishermen Jetty

Wide beach backed by coconut trees and mangroves where anglers fish and sun-lovers relax.

Set Foot on Far-Flung Paradise Islands

Disappear to Pulau Aur and Pemanggil

Pulau Aur is 65km from the mainland, surrounded by gin-clear water, stunning coral and a few wrecks off its coast. The smaller Pulau Dayang sits in sapphire waters to the north. Bluewater (bluewater.my) has a fast ferry that leaves on Fridays and returns on Sundays, taking about two hours each way.

About 50km east of Mersing, Pulau Pemanggil ticks all the boxes of a beautiful remote tropical paradise and has excellent diving.

EATING & DRINKING IN MERSING: OUR PICKS

Loke Tien Yuen $ Delicious pork and prawn dishes at Mersing’s oldest Chinese restaurant and still one of the busiest in town.

Restoran Syed Ali $ Power up before your ferry with roti, kopi or a hearty plate of nasi kandar at this central Indian Muslim restaurant.

Calypso Cafe $$ Pirate-themed corner cafe with quirky memorabilia (antique guns, weapons and shark teeth) from Johor’s Royal Palace.

History 1984 Cafe & Bistro Beer, wine and mocktails, best consumed on a veranda overlooking Mersing’s main intersection.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Johor Bahru

Attrus B&B $ Spick-and-span mixed single and double pod dorms in walking distance to JB Sentral and most sights.

Citrus Hotel $$ Boasting a perfect location next to JB Sentral and within walking distance to the Heritage District, this hotel has bright, functional rooms with green and orange accents.

Hotel CIQ $$ Super central in Jln Terus, this heritage-themed hotel has coloured shutters and well-appointed industrial-chic rooms, albeit some without windows.

The Replacement $$ Just three Nordic-inspired rooms with wooden furnishings and whitewashed walls at this hip cafe-turned-lodge in the heritage area.

Amari $$$ Sleek rooms are set in an apartment block tower filled with shops and food options across from Komtar JBCC mall and within walking distance of everything.

Hilton DoubleTree $$$ Can’t go wrong with the brand’s ample rooms and many restaurants. The perk is a 13th-floor pool and bar terrace for bird’s-eye city views.

Kukup

OYO East Mount Hotel $$ It might get a bit noisy as it’s next to the jetty, but the en-suite bedrooms are large, clean and central.

Tan Castle $$ The rooms and mini apartments at this sea-facing property are the best in Kukup’s Air Masin stilt village.

Desaru Coast

NY Tropical Backpackers $ Desaru’s only budget option is 10km from the beach but within walking distance to many food options and shops.

Anantara Desaru Coast $$$ Retro Malay style blends with modern chic touches at this resort, mixing contemporary seafront villas and blocks of large rooms with balconies overlooking the coast.

Tioman Island

Nazri’s Place $ On the southern end of the beach, this stalwart chalet operation has a range of options, from budget A-frame huts to air-conditioned cottages.

Bamboo Hill Chalets $$ Exquisite atmosphere at these cliff-hanging bungalows on the northern end of ABC beach. They’re popular for a reason and best booked in advance.

Swiss Cottage Resort $$ Sea-view chalets and bungalows in Tekek with elegant, creative furniture surrounded by a shaded garden.

Paya Debloc Village $$ This cluster of mustard-coloured wooden bungalows near Paya jetty attracts young divers and has a happening restaurant.

X Rector Minsu $$ Genting’s homey, colourful beachside resort is decorated with shells and coral and focuses on hosting advanced snorkellers and freedivers in its immaculate rooms.

Aman Tioman Beach Resort $$$ Large and modern Paya seafront resort with blocks of standard rooms at the front and large chalets in lush greenery at the back, plus a minimart, cafe and multiple restaurants.

Mersing

Myra Hotel $ An old dame refurbished better than most other harbourside accommodations, with en-suite or cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms; perfect for waiting for the next ferry.

Hotel Embassy $ Even if it doesn’t look like much from the outside, it remains one of the best options in town, with clean, renovated and spacious en-suite rooms.

Pahang & the Interior

CAVES, JUNGLES AND SLEEPY TOWNS

Welcome to Peninsular Malaysia’s largest remaining wilderness, where tigers and wild elephants battle for space amidst encroaching plantations, and frontier towns and surf breaks dot the coast.

Taman Negara | Don Mammoser/shutterstock ©

In remote Pahang and southern Kelantan states, the ghosts of colonial Malaya still linger in sleepy towns, and the leftovers of the once impenetrable jungle are within easy reach. Forget Kuala Lumpur’s space-age skyline and Penang’s heritage-themed boutique hotels: the main draw in this region is the primordial 130-million-year-old jungle of Taman Negara, 4343 sq km of raw, primary rainforest hooting, trumpeting and roaring with wildlife. Take time to venture deeper into this reserve, established by the British in 1938, and you might be surprised with once-in-a-lifetime animal encounters, though tigers are as rare as needles in a tropical haystack.

The road less travelled heads to the forests, caves and rivers of Kenong Rimba State Park, where fewer visitors mean greater chances to feel the dwarfing power of Malaysia’s dwindling nature. Tucked along the country’s central mountainous spine, the Titiwangsa range, dominated by 2187m-high Gunung Tahan (Mt Endurance), are remote towns like Gua Musang and Merapoh, surrounded by limestone rock formations filled with large caves. Further south, Kuala Lipis, Bentong and Raub boast well-conserved colonial buildings along murky, meandering rivers.

Magic Orb Studio/shutterstock ©

On the eastern coast, the state capital of Kuantan offers a respite of modernity and a jumping-off point to the mining town of Sungai Lembing, sloshing waterfalls, the noble palaces of riverside Pekan and the surfers’ haven of Cherating.

THE MAIN AREAS

KUALA LIPIS

Colonial heritage by the Jelai River.

JERANTUT & TAMAN NEGARA

Welcome to the jungle.

KUANTAN

Mosques, street art and beaches.

Find Your Way

The Titiwangsa Mountains blend into Taman Negara’s jungles, splitting the peninsula and spilling towns around its jigsaw peaks. Palm oil plantations flank the roads to the east coast, where the beaches see few travellers.

Plan Your Time

Taman Negara is a three-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur, but to scratch under the region’s surface, allow at least three days or multiple visits.

Red Hill | jefferyhamstock/shutterstock ©

Three-Day Jungle Taster

Have lunch in Jerantut and hike the Red Hill, looking for red peeling trees, before settling into a Kuala Tahan guesthouse. Join a night walk around the headquarters of Taman Negara and spend the next day exploring the park. Return to Jerantut by slow boat or van on the third morning and explore the marvellous Kota Gelanggi cave system.

Forest to Beaches in a Week

Devote three days to Taman Negara. Head to Jerantut and take the thrilling via ferrata at Paya Gunung Extreme Park. Zip to the coast and revel in the city beaches of Kuantan before moving to Sungai Lembing for a dip at the Rainbow Waterfall. End with surf lessons, smoothies and morning yoga by the sea at Cherating.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

JANUARY

Cherating exploits the last waves to host its annual Surf Festival as the monsoon season dwindles.

MARCH

Shoulder season picks up after the monsoon. Fewer tourists are around, and forest reserves are lush and green.

JUNE

Bird-watchers flock to Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race in June. The height of tourist season in Taman Negara.

DECEMBER

Bargain hunters attend the Pahang Vintage Festival in Kuantan. National parks close or reduce activities during the wet season.

Kuala Lipis

COLONIAL LEGACY | RAILWAY HISTORY | SLOW RIVER TOWN

At the confluence of the Lipis and Jelai Rivers, Kuala Lipis was carved out of the jungle in 1863 and developed into the old capital of Pahang between 1898 and 1955. It has changed little since colonial administrator and writer Sir Hugh Charles Clifford lived in the bungalow that’s still atop the town’s tallest hill, Bukit Residen.

Kuala Lipis’ heyday as a thriving outpost of British Malaya’s interior springs back to life when walking down Jln Besar, a central avenue flanked by early 20th-century Chinese shophouses. The Jelai River meanders below the old town, hemmed by viridian tree canopies where gibbons call out loudly in the morning. The new town across the bridge is less charming but brims with the panache and business of a crucial gateway to Peninsular Malaysia’s less developed interior.

Tourism may soon pick up because in November 2023, Kuala Lipis and surrounding areas became the country’s largest National Geopark.

SIGHTS

1  Gurdwara Sahib

2  Istana Hinggap

3  Klinik Pergigian Chan

4  Laman Seni

5  Medan Tangga

6  Muzium Warisan Lipis

7  Old State Mosque

8  Pahang Club

9  Thean Hou Temple

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

10  Appu’s Jungle Treks

11  Tuah Travel

SLEEPING

12  Residence Rest House

13  Star-Well Hotel

14  UDesign Hotel

EATING

15  Chong Ko Hakka Noodles

16  Jamil Pulut Rendang

17  No 28 Kedai Kopi How

18  Poon Brother Kuey Tiaw

19  Sen Bake House

INFORMATION

20  Post Office

TRANSPORT

21  Terminal Anggerik Bus Station

22  Train Station

GETTING AROUND

Kuala Lipis’ train station on Jln Besar is a major stop along the East Coast railway between Gemas and Kota Bharu.

The bus station (Terminal Anggerik) with services across the country is on the eastern side of the Jelai River, a 1km walk along a non-pedestrian-friendly area and across a bridge.

Ride-hailing app Grab (grab.com/my) is convenient for getting around town. If you’ve hired a car, parking coupon tickets, on sale from several shops on Jln Besar, must be displayed between 8am and 5pm except on Sundays and public holidays.

A Taste of Medan Tangga

Eat at the heart of the Old Town

At the centre of Jln Besar and opposite the Laman Seni, an unusual covered walkway, Medan Tangga (‘stairs’ in Malay), descends to the riverfront on Jln Jelai. It’s flanked by food shops and stalls that are best visited in the morning when residents flock here for breakfast.

At the west end, the famous Jamil Pulut Rendang specialises in Malay curries and slow-cooked beef with spices. No 28 Kedai Kopi How is good for coffee and noodles. The legendary Chong Ko Hakka Noodles is towards the corner with Jln Tan Sri Abdul Razak, which cuts the walkway in half, and sells out early in the morning. In the middle of Medan Tangga, Poon Brother Kuey Tiaw serves silky noodles, and at the eastern end is Sen Bake House for traditional Chinese breakfast fritters, such as the breadstick-like youtiao.

TOP TIP

Time your visit to spend the morning in town when the best food stalls are open, the air is cooler and Jln Besar is a hub of activity.

Ruins of the British Empire

Discover forlorn colonial buildings

Few Malaysian towns hold a wealth of atmospheric colonial buildings like Kuala Lipis. It’s quite a walk from Jln Besar to the top of Bukit Residen, the highest peak in town, but the bright red Residence Rest House (Rumah Rehat) is worth the slog. Built in 1922 to house the first English Resident, Sir Hugh Clifford, it has also functioned as an atmospheric hotel since 1983 but now lies semi-abandoned in a state of disrepair.

Another ‘living dead’ historical building is the black and white wooden Pahang Club founded in 1907. Once a grand clubhouse for colonial Brits, it sits creaking and rotting, long past its last call.

Dig into a Dark Political Legacy

Know the Razak at Muzium Warisan Lipis

Muzium Warisan Lipis is not only a perfect spot to explore a well-preserved Malay wooden cottage, it’s also where you can step into the birthplace of one of Malaysia’s most notorious politicians: the infamous prime minister Najib Razak, who was convicted of corruption in 2020 for his role in the 1Malaysia Development Berhad scandal, one of history’s largest money-laundering offences.

On the ground floor of this mustard-coloured wooden house with maroon shutters are vintage objects and memorabilia from the area, while Razak’s history is remembered upstairs in the exhibit dedicated to Lipis’ most noteworthy people. The board, however, is missing the incarceration update.

KUALA LIPIS’ HERITAGE ON FOOT

Start on Jln Besar outside the English cottage–looking 1 Post Office, one of the oldest in the country, open since 1910. Spot the curious milestone on the pavement that says ‘Kuala Lipis 0’, which marks the middle of town and is a leftover of the colonial past. Look at the boards at Information Square to learn about Kuala Lipis’ 2023 Geopark inscription and then proceed north under the five-foot walkway to 2 Klinik Pergigian Chan, whose waiting hall hosts a free photo gallery curated by resident dentist and keen travel photographer Dr Chan, a great source of information on what’s happening in town.

Walk a few metres more to the 3 Laman Seni, an art and shopping space covered in murals. Turn left (west) into Jln Stesen, passing under the giant mural celebrating Keretapi Tanah Melayu, and step onto the platform of the 4 Train Station, which has been operating since 1926. On Saturdays, this lane hosts Pasar Seni Laman Lipis, a vibrant vintage and art market.

Loop back to Jln Besar and walk north to the 5 Gurdwara Sahib, which has served the Sikh community since 1916, and then retrace your steps south to Jln Masjid Lama, named after the 6 Old State Mosque built on this bend of the Jelai River in 1888. Rainforest looms above murky water as you walk south along the breezy riverfront to 7 Thean Hou Temple, the town’s oldest Chinese shrine dating from 1898. Leave the Old Town by heading north on Jln Besar and using the pedestrian bridge over Jln Pekeliling. It’s an uphill slog to the black gable roof and whitewashed walls of 8 Istana Hinggap (Palace of Kuala Lipis), constructed in 1926.

Beyond Kuala Lipis

North and south of Kuala Lipis, Pahang’s western side flanks Taman Negara and drops caves, limestone hills and rivers around remote little towns.

The less-visited stars of western Pahang cluster around Kuala Lipis. To the north, the Central Spine Rd to southern Kelantan skirts some of the country’s most stunning scenery. The flanks of the Titiwangsa Mountains spill into bulging, rainforest-topped limestone hills that are best explored in Merapoh and Gua Musang.

Southwest towards Kuala Lumpur, the former gold-mining outpost of Raub has traded ore for spiky durians. Further south in the old tin-mining dame of Bentong (a hot spot of guerrilla fighting during the years of the 1948 Malayan Emergency), history meets thick local coffee and lip-smacking food. Between Raub and Bentong rises viridian Fraser’s Hill, Peninsular Malaysia’s most remote hill station and a bird-watcher’s paradise.

GETTING AROUND

Bentong and Raub are well connected by bus to Kuala Lumpur, and you can go from Bentong to Gua Musang in less than three hours. The Jungle Railway also stops at Merapoh and Gua Musang.

However, sights outside of these towns’ compact city centres are spread out and rarely connected by public transport. Relying on Grab isn’t wise as fewer drivers ply these routes, so the best way to explore is by driving. The four-lane Central Spine Rd is a breeze.

Kenong Rimba State ParkTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 20 MINS

Caves, camping and river exploration

Everyone goes to Taman Negara, but Kenong Rimba State Park, a lesser-known 120-sq-km nature reserve about 18km east of Kuala Lipis, sees too few visitors.

Guides are compulsory for entering both the park’s northern and southern parts, and they can arrange permits issued by the Kuala Lipis District Forest Office. Appu of Appu’s Jungle Treks has run one- to six-day jungle trips for years. For a relaxed jungle experience, Kenong Eco Camp, managed by Tuah Travel on the southern fringes of the park, has tents and simple chalets nestled on a bend of the Kenong River.

From the Tanjung Kiara jetty on the Pahang River, it’s a scenic 20-minute boat ride up the Kenong River, gliding past majestic tree canopies and protruding limestone rocks. The camp sits next to three caves (Gua Batu Tangga, Gua Batu Tangkup and Gua Batu Telahup) draped with cascading fig tree roots. A low hill, Gua Batu Tinggi, grants open views over the forest canopy. Kayaks await next to the Eco Camp jetty for closer inspection of the stunning river caves and rock formations.

EASY-ACCESS RAINFOREST

Visitors previously didn’t have much reason to visit Taman Negara’s western entrance, 7km inland from Merapoh, until the Sungai Relau Treetop Walk opened in 2023. This state-of-the-art installation rises within the Taman Negara Sungai Relau’s park entrance complex and comprises seven observation towers and 13 platforms, some of which are wheelchair accessible.

For travellers who don’t have time for a full-on jungle experience, the sounds of the forest from up here, along with views of tall dipterocarp trees, are a good alternative. The tallest tower, Menara Tahan, is 32m high and offers unparalleled views of the Tahan range on a clear day. It takes about an hour to complete one loop and soak up the views.

Cegar PerahTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 45 MINS

Bunk with the villagers in Tanum Valley

The village of Cegar Perah is the main hub of the Tanum Valley. From here, Tuah Travel organises tours that include a homestay in Sungai Temau, a grassroots village connected to a plantation under the Federal Land Consolidation and Rehabilitation Authority (FELCRA), which helps develop rural communities by creating jobs.

Highlights of the Tuah’s tours include a five- to six-hour kayak journey across a wild 12km section of the Tanum River, visits to a traditional perahu (wooden longboat) maker and the 20-minute trek to Gua Temalong, a small cave crossed by an underground stream that moulded it into a wavelike tunnel. The absolute best of Gua Temalong hangs out back. A wide fan of roots cascades from a fig tree perched high above the cave, creating an impenetrable, massive natural curtain.

MerapohTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 1HR

Caving bonanza

The small village of Merapoh is known all over Malaysia for its impressive caves, but it remains under travellers’ radars. About 500 hollows in the towering cluster of limestone massifs surround this one-horse town, but only 12 are open to tourism.

You can visit by yourself if you can find them. The caves are not marked on most navigation apps and are hidden behind vegetation on private farmland. The signage also needs upgrading. Merapoh Adventure is an established local tour operator. Expect to visit four caves in a full day of exploration. One of the most special but harder to access is Gua Hari Malaysia, which contains an underground river and takes at least half a day to swim through and explore.

Saving the critically endangered Malayan tiger

With fewer than 150 animals estimated in the wild, the Malayan tiger is on the brink of extinction. Poaching and habitat loss are big contributors, but snares set for other animals also kill them. You can help by joining a three-day/two-night CAT Walk (citizenactionfortigers.my/cwinfo) with the Malaysian Conservation Alliance for Tigers, which engages the indigenous community in reforestation and patrolling efforts.

This guided hike explores the Sungai Yu Ecological Corridor outside of Merapoh, one final natural passage between two of the country’s largest forests, Taman Negara and the Titiwangsa Mountains. Don’t expect to see tigers. Instead, hikers look for snares, traps and lures, which are dismantled, and signs of illegal forest clearing, which are reported to the authorities. Being in the forest is also a deterrent to poachers, illegal loggers and miners.

EATING IN GUA MUSANG: OUR PICKS

333 Mak Yee Pan Mee $ Traditional wooden home in the Chinese village that doubles as a hearty clay pot pan mee (board noodle) restaurant.

Irdina Nasi Kukus $ Malay restaurant serving nasi kukus ayam goreng (pandan-scented rice and fried chicken) and fish, meat and veg.

Roti Canai London $ This well-known roti and kopi (coffee) streetside joint deserves the trip to the outskirts of town.

Restoran Kak Zah $ Kelantanese Malay food; try nasi dagang (coconut-steamed rice and fish curry) or nasi kerabu, blue rice with fried fish.

Caves, Merapoh | Abdul Razak Latif/shutterstock ©

Gua MusangTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 1HR

Railway mementoes and street art

Gua Musang is located just across Pahang’s state border at the southern end of Kelantan and has long been one of the major settlements along Malaysia’s famed Jungle Railway. The Old Train Station, 1km from the KTM platform, is where the early settlement developed around the Jungle Railway, right under the huge limestone massif that gives the town its name. (Gua means ‘cave’, and musang is the common palm civet.) In 2020, artist Koo Yean Ni decorated the northern side of the original station with a cutesy train caricature honouring the heyday of Keretapi Malaysia (Malaysian Railways System).

Only 100m away in the old town, a perpendicular alley bisects circular Jln Pekan Lama in the middle, where two murals celebrate the Malay martial art of silat and scenes from past kampung (village) life.

BEST CAVES TO EXPLORE

Gua Jinjang Pelamin

Wedding Throne Cave is 500m long, with 30m-tall twin pillars and crystal-clear water flowing through it.

Gua Tahi Bintang

Shooting Stars Cave ends with a unique glittering rock wall that shines like a star-studded night sky.

Gua Sisik Naga

Dragon’s Scale Cave has a curved tunnel resembling a dragon’s skin.

Gua Seribu Cerita

Thousand Stories Cave is covered in carbon paintings etched by people who lived here 3000 to 500 years ago.

Bukit Gua Musang

Opens majestically after a tight passage and leads to the top of the limestone massif dominating the namesake town.

Disappear into the limestone

Hardy travellers should brave a climb and cave exploration of Bukit Gua Musang, the limestone massif looming above town like the forest-encrusted shell of a giant stone turtle.

Guides are not compulsory, but avoid the wet season between December and February when the jagged rocks are often slippery. Cross the Old Station’s rail track (trains pass through around 8am and 10am or late at night) and walk right (south) until you see a pole marked 321.5. Follow the path to the right (south) and skirt around the bottom of the hill, going past a small shack settlement. Pay attention to the left, where ropes and metal ladders indicate ascending the almost vertical rock face.

After the climb, follow the path left (north) for 10m until you reach a narrow fissure between two boulders – that’s the entrance. Squeeze into the first massive cave chamber and feel dwarfed by its honeycombed walls.

It should take about 15 minutes to get here from the train platform; allow at least an hour to explore.

Old Train Station, Gua Musang | Noor Radya Binti Md Radzi/shutterstock ©

WHY I LOVE GUA MUSANG

Marco Ferrarese, Lonely Planet writer

Since setting my sights on the jungle-encrusted limestone massif looming like a watchful monster above Gua Musang’s tiny train station a decade ago, I knew I had found a raw gem. I still think there’s no other place like it on the peninsula.

At first look, Gua Musang is just another steamy backwater town few travellers would consider visiting. But the communal fight to reclaim this crucial railway settlement from nature created a twilight zone where Kelantanese Malay and immigrant Chinese cultures coexist seamlessly. Less than 10km south is Kampung Pulai, an odd piece of southwestern China transferred to the Malay hinterland. It has karst rock scenery, a benevolent resident goddess and an irresistible meandering river.

PulaiTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 1HR

Meet a 400-year-old goddess

The centrepiece of the idyllic Hakka village of Pulai, set amidst limestone hills on a bend of the Galas River 8km south of Gua Musang, is the Shui Yue Gong Temple, dedicated to the goddess of mercy, Guanyin. The temple is at least 400 years old and contains a rare antique print of the goddess brought by early settlers from China. The temple fills with visitors from Southeast Asia and beyond on Guanyin’s birthday, on the 19th day of the second lunar calendar month.

A suspended bridge on the northwestern corner of the temple’s square connects to a footpath that cuts through rubber plantations to the base of limestone massif Princess Hill Cave. A statue of General Jiang Taigong fishes silently next to a red staircase that leads halfway up the hill, where a concrete statue of Guanyin fills the mouth of a tall cave. The shrine is open between 6.30am and 4pm, or ask the local folks to let you in.

Ulu DongTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 1HR

Join the bamboo artists

In the remote village of Ulu Dong, Malay artist Madi runs riverside Art Garden Madi, an eco-oriented farm stay, a sustainable vegetable garden and a freewheeling artist community focused on creating art with bamboo. Besides Workaway volunteers, Madi (WhatsApp 011-2353 7738) welcomes guests to experience kampung life, share knowledge and artistry, and participate in the community’s daily art and farming activities.

It’s within walking distance of Pulau Chekas Riverpools, a quaint riverside bathing and relaxation spot, and 1.7km to the impressive Lata Jarum Waterfall set in a recreational forest with cascades and a clean river.

BentongTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 1HR 30 MINS

Learn about a tin-mining powerhouse

Bentong Gallery offers a quick history lesson about the town and the Tong Shoon company that built it under the helm of founding father Loke Yew.

The panels (few in English) and memorabilia including old furniture, houseware and clothing from the past illustrate the town’s industrial beginnings, its rise as a prosperous tin-mining centre and its decline in the 1950s when Bentong’s hills became a main hideout for the Communist insurgents during the Malayan Emergency. The free-to-visit gallery, which has a cafe to help it break even, is housed in the original building of Loke Yew’s first shop.

RAUB: MALAYSIA’S DURIAN CAPITAL

Many foreigners flinch in disgust when they hear ‘durian’, but the alleged ‘king of fruits’ has replaced gold and rubber as the Raub district’s main income earner.

According to Agricultural Department of Malaysia statistics, Raub had nearly 98 sq km of durian farms in 2022, translating to 13% of Malaysia’s total farm coverage dedicated to the thorny crop. The local favourite in Raub is the yellow-pulped, slightly bitter Musang King, most of which is exported to China.

Differing from other districts in Pahang, which have two seasons, Raub’s only durian season falls between December and January, when dozens of stalls laden with the spiky balls pop up along the road to Bentong.

Eat at Chui Yin Rd

Among Bentong’s three main roads named after its founders, Chui Yin Rd is peppered with century-old buildings that cater to gluttons. Woks sizzle all day, sending up different aromas depending on the breakfast, lunch or dinner menu.

The stalls at Yuan Kie Kopitiam range from economy rice to fried noodles and yong tau fu (a Hakka dish of tofu filled with fish paste or minced meat). At night, a 40-year-old wonton noodle stall prepares house-made dumplings and silky, delicious noodles.

Ah Wan Porridge is a famous old Chinese porridge shop next to Tauhu Auntie Mok, Bentong’s leading tau foo fah (soybean pudding) maker. T.A.K. Ice Cream Corner adds a choice of thirst-quenching desserts like fresh cendol (shaved-ice dessert with green noodles, syrups, fruit and coconut milk) and ice kacang (a mix of ice, red beans, sweet corn and grass jelly) topped with ice cream. Thong Kee Kopitiam pioneered a blend of Hainan coffee and te,a and bakes its own croissants, roti bakar (toast with coconut jam and butter) and breakfast sets.

CLock tower, Bukit Fraser | Abdelrahman Hassanein/shutterstock ©

BEST HIKES IN FRASER’S HILL

Rompin Trail

A wide 500m walk that, in colonial times, led to the church at the Methodist Bungalow.

Hemmant Trail

A gentle 1km level path designed by architect Frank Hemmant in 1920 to overlook Fraser’s Hill’s golf course.

Bishop’s Trail

Heaven for bird-watchers, this challenging 1.5km trail is best avoided between December and February when the monsoon brings out blood-thirsty leeches.

Maxwell Trail

A 1.8km-long narrow and steep undulating path opened in 1919 to reach Whittington Bungalow.

Pine Tree Trail

Epic 5.5km (but nine-hour) trek through mossy forest. Requires a permit from Pahang’s Forestry Department (forestry.pahang.gov.my/e-ecopark).

Bukit FraserTIME FROM KUALA LIPIS: 2HR

Find a slice of colonial England in the tropics

Bukit Fraser, Malaysia’s most remote British hill station (there’s no public transportation to get here or even a petrol pump), is a trip back to a time of Tudor-style buildings and creaky inns. The temperature of Fraser’s Hill drops by a few degrees compared to the lowlands, thanks to its altitude between 1220m and 1524m. Mist often blankets the hill station’s seven densely forested hills, and residents sit by the fireplace on the wettest nights.

A vine-cloaked stone clock tower in the middle of the main square welcomes arrivals. For the full retro-British experience, eat at or at least check out Ye Olde Smokehouse, the hill’s original English cottage opened in 1924, where you can grab a pint at the colonial-styled bar or dig into a well-cooked pie or roast.

If that’s not authentic enough, the immaculate British-engineered Royal Fraser Hill’s Golf Club, the first in Malaysia, straddles the centre of the hill station. You can ride horses at the Paddock, paddle in Allan’s Water Lake or try your hand at archery. Bird-watchers should engage the services of Mr Durai (WhatsApp 013-983 1633), who studied the endemic birds on the trails of his native hill for 30 years.

Taman Negara & Jerantut

RAINFOREST | CAVES | ADVENTURE PLAYGROUND

Mosquito repellent? Check. Hiking poles? Check. Leech socks? Check. Welcome to Taman Negara, Peninsular Malaysia’s largest forest reserve, a spot high on the list of many travellers.

This immense green lung of primary rainforest, among the oldest in the world, straddles the best part of central and northeastern Pahang, southern Kelantan and western Terengganu, and it’s everything people imagine it to be: sweltering, mysterious, hooting and roaring. In terms of rainforest experiences in the peninsula, Taman Negara steals the show, but there’s no rush to get to its entry point, Kuala Tahan. Take it easy: this is a land of jaw-dropping geological importance, with more caves than you can visit, limestone pinnacles to conquer and opportunities to get on the stinky trails of the world’s largest flower. The region’s gateway, Jerantut, is a crucial stop along the Jungle Railway and a pleasant town from which to explore the park and its surroundings.

SIGHTS

1  Kenong Rimba State Park

2  Lata Berkoh

3  Lata Jarum Waterfall

4  Pulau Chekas Riverpools

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

5  Art Garden Madi

6  Bukit Merah

7  Bukit Teresek

8  Canopy Walkway

9  Gua Jinjang Pelamin

10  Gua Kota Gelanggi Cave Complex

11  Gua Sisik Naga

12  Gua Tahi Bintang

13  Gunung Tahan

14  Kuala Keniam

15  Kuala Trenggan

16  Lubok Simpon

See 29  Merapoh Adventure

17  Mt Benom

18  NKS Hotel & Travel

19  Paya Gunung Extreme Park

20  Sempadan-Jerangsang Trail

21  SOMSet Wildlife

22  Sungai Relau Treetop Walk

23  Sungai Rengat Trail

24  Sungai Yu Ecological Corridor

SLEEPING

25  Agosto Taman Negara Hostel

26  Hotel Darulmakmur

27  Jerantut Hill Resort

28  Kenong Eco Camp

29  Merapoh Adventure Guesthouse

30  Mutiara Taman Negara Resort

31  Yellow Guesthouse

EATING

32  Gypsy Garden

33  Kedai Makan Sayed Mohd Aziz

34  Wan Chai Kok Restaurant

35  ZG Corner

TRANSPORT

36  Tanjung Kiara Jetty

GETTING AROUND

Jerantut is a main stop on the KTM East Coast railway line, but if you are not coming from Johor Bahru or Kota Bharu (the two opposite ends of the line), it’s best to catch a direct bus from a city in the peninsula.

Kuala Lumpur is three hours away and serves the region from the Pekeliling Bus Terminal. Public transport only gets you as far as Jerantut’s centre. From there, minivans go to Taman Negara once or twice a day. To get to other sites, hiring a car or using Grab is your best bet.

Conquer the Red Hill

Find the peeling bark trees

Soaring above the palm oil plantations of Felda Padang Piol 24km out of Jerantut on the way to Kuala Tahan, 371m-high Bukit Merah (‘Red Hill’ in Malay) is a rewarding half-day side trip on the way to Taman Negara. The compact top features an unusual concentration of red peeling bark trees.

The start of this sweaty 1.9km uphill climb is marked with a large ‘Bukit Merah’ signboard on the western side of the main road to the park. Follow the yellow arrows through a palm oil plantation until a viewing platform with towering Bukit Merah letters, and take the jungle trail going uphill. Ladders help avoid the worst of the muddy incline until the path evens out, turning into bamboo forest, and soon enough, you’ll face the first clump of eerie-looking, red-hued trunks.

A guide is not compulsory, but bring plenty of water, avoid the hottest hour of the day and wear appropriate footwear.

TOP TIP

Avoid visiting during the wet season (November to mid-January) when Taman Negara and most attractions slow to a crawl or close down. Rains in recent years have flooded large areas, so it’s best to plan your jungle jaunts for other months.

TOP SIGHT

Taman Negara

Peninsular Malaysia’s largest national park opened in 1939 as King George V National Park and colours the centre of the country with 4343 sq km of thick green canopies, Mother Nature’s last shelter for tigers, elephants and other elusive wildlife. On the reserve’s flanks and inner waterways, the indigenous Batek people still inhabit the leftovers of their ancestral land.

Fhaizal Mazlan/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for the latest official Taman Negara news.

DON’T MISS

Kuala Tahan

Canopy Walkway

Bukit Teresek

Lata Berkoh

Kelah Sanctuary

Keniam Trail

Gunung Tahan

Arrival in Kuala Tahan

Don’t think that visiting Taman Negara is a wild jungle experience. The entry point, the village of Kuala Tahan, has plenty of accommodation and eating options but no ATMs or money-changing facilities, so take out all the cash you need in Jerantut.

There’s no longer a public bus to the park, and most travellers arrive either in a minivan or spend about three hours making the romantic, yet slow and hot journey by longboat from the Kuala Tembeling Jetty, which leaves at 1pm under scorching tropical weather. Either option is easily organised by NKS Hotel & Travel (taman-negara-nks.com) from Jerantut’s Jln Besar or Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.

The only accommodation option, the upscale Mutiara Taman Negara Resort, is inside the park’s perimeter. All other restaurants and guesthouses are across the Tembeling River in Kampung Kuala Tahan. Boats shuttle passengers between the two for RM1 per person until about 11pm to allow visitors to participate in the night walks organised by the park’s rangers.

Hiking Without a Guide

Most trails in Taman Negara require a guide, but you can visit a few on your own. On the Canopy Walkway (only partially accessible at the time of research), you can peek over the jungle from 45m. It closes for safety reasons when it’s raining or the canopy is wet.

Further along the same trail of mostly raised boardwalks is gentle Bukit Teresek (344m), a viewpoint 1.7km from park HQ. Return to Mutiara Taman Negara Resort or turn on a side trail to Lubok Simpon, a swimming area on Sungai Tahan. The loop can be completed in about three hours.

Lata Berkoh

Park headquarters can organise the popular boat trip to Lata Berkoh, a set of rushing rapids on Sungai Tahan. It’s no longer possible to trek there by yourself, and each boat includes one guide. Be careful when swimming, as the area is not always patrolled and the rapids become treacherous when river levels are high.

Boats usually also stop at the Kelah Sanctuary along the way, where guides attract its namesake endangered fish species with fish feed.

Keniam Trail

The easiest way to have a complete Taman Negara experience is the two-day/one-night Keniam Trail, which includes boat trips, trekking and overnighting in a cave. Travellers have seen elephants, porcupines and wildcats.

The standard tour that most operators offer starts with a visit to the Canopy Walkway, followed by an hour-long boat ride to Kuala Keniam, where groups start trekking for 10.8km past the Gua Daun Menari and Gua Luas caves. At Gua Kepayang, guides prepare a simple dinner over a campfire and give guests a sleeping bag and pad to spend the night inside the cave. Bring an inflatable pillow for added comfort.

The next morning after breakfast, it takes five hours to walk the 8.5km trail to Kuala Trenggan, where park rangers control your trash and fine those who haven’t packed everything they declared going into the park. The trip ends with another boat ride to a Batek Orang Asli village, where the indigenous people give blowpipe-shooting and fire-starting demonstrations.

HIKING TO GUNUNG TAHAN

The best Taman Negara experience is a real untamed adventure: transversing the park for 55km to reach 2187m-high Gunung Tahan, Peninsular Malaysia’s highest peak. You must carry all your food, camping gear and a medical kit.

A round trip from Kuala Tahan takes up to nine days, while a faster option descends the peak westwards to the Taman Negara Sungai Relau entrance near Merapoh, taking a week to complete.

TOP TIPS

• The inexpensive rubber shoes known locally as ‘Adidas kampung’ have the perfect grip to walk on the park’s muddy trails. Find them at most Mr DIY outlets and sundry shops.

• Bring mosquito repellent, a sunhat and leech socks, especially for multiday treks.

• If you want to see wildlife, spend more time and go deeper into the park. Big animals rarely roam near headquarters.

• Avoid visiting in August at the height of the European summer holidays when park headquarters and nearby trails swarm with noisy tourists.

Leonardo da Vinci in a Cave

Explore the Gua Kota Gelanggi complex

One of the region’s most important yet overlooked cave complexes is the sprawling Gua Kota Gelanggi, 30km east of Jerantut on the road to Maran. Only a few of the 11 hollows are open to the public, and hiring a knowledgeable guide at the entrance or in Jerantut is a good idea.

You’ll go through the jungle and the small passage of the Elephant’s Head Cave into the Portrait Cave where, unbelievably, one rock formation on the upper right section of the cave’s wall resembles the features of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa.

Six archaeological digs introduce the massive mouth of the Wind Cave. Inside, rocks resembling an elephant and two seated human figures give the name to the two inner chambers: Elephant and Wedding Cave (Gua Sanding). Between March and October, sunrays penetrate the massive cavity in the roof, casting impressive light beams on the floor.

Scramble to the Top of Paya Gunung

Hair-raising limestone climb

Picture this: clung to the rock face, you swing a leg trying to find a gap big enough for your toes to take hold. Dozens of metres below, vegetation and palm oil fields look like an endless miniature landscape.

Welcome to Paya Gunung Extreme Park, which – thanks to a motley crew of climbers – has a via ferrata route to the top of two adjoining limestone pinnacles. A full course (WhatsApp Khayyam at 019-983 9822) includes two trips to peaks A and B, abseiling from peak A, exploring the caves at the bottom of the massif, and lunch.

Marvel at Gunung Senyum

Swiss cheese of limestone

The Jengka Forest Reserve between Jerantut and Temerloh hides a bounty for keen spelunkers: Gunung Senyum, a prehistoric dwelling site from the Mesolithic Age. Nine caves pierce this limestone massif, all connected by footpaths and staircases, of which Gua Angin and Gua Terang Bulan, with a gaping hole in the ceiling, are the two largest.

Access Gunung Senyum’s caves (open from 8.30am to 4.30pm) by paying RM10 at the entrance. Campsite and chalet accommodation are available at the forest reserve.

Guides and permits are required to trek to Gunung Senyum’s peak (allow at least eight hours round-trip) and explore other eight caves within the adjacent Gunung Jebak Puyuh massif. Contact the Temerloh Forestry Office by calling 09-296 2755.

SUPERNATURAL JUNGLE ETIQUETTE

To Malaysians, entering the jungle is treading into a spiritual world governed by taboos and rituals. Malaysians believe it’s best never to call out your or your companions’ real names while hiking to avoid attracting the orang bunian, forest spirits that live in a parallel dimension where time flows more slowly. They are thought to be responsible for various disappearances in the jungle. For the same reason, if you need to relieve yourself in the wild, it’s good practice to ask for permission first.

Never say ‘tiger’ or ‘elephant’, or they may appear to hurt you. Instead, use ‘Maybank’ (the Malaysian bank with a tiger in its logo) and orang besar (big man).

MORE VIA FERRATA

Malaysia’s highest peak, Mt Kinabalu, is home to the world’s highest via ferrata, perched between 3400m and 3800m. Even though it makes the 394m-high Paya Gunung sound like child’s play, both take you to thrilling heights.

Rafflesia flower | Mohamad alias/shutterstock ©

SPOTTING RAFFLESIA IN HULU CHEKA

Headman of the Ulu Cheka subdistrict Khairul Akhma Yusof advises where to find the Rafflesia cantleyi.

The Benom Valley has three reputable rafflesia trails, each patrolled by a local guide who monitors the flowering of blossoms.

Sempadan-Jerangsang Trail

The shortest trek at only 10 minutes, guided by Samsuri Salamen (call 010-435 9520) of Kelab Amanah Khazanah Lembah Benom.

Sungai Rengat Trail

Probably the best place to see many buds in a small area. It’s reachable on foot within 30 minutes. Contact Hazri Hazmi (call 012-376 3508) of Persatuan Kembara Rekreasi Sungai Rengat Adventure.

Krau Trail

Also 30 minutes long and managed by Rahmat Swarno (WhatsApp 011-1495 9586), another member of AK Lembah Benom.

Stinky Flowers & Malaysian Bigfoot

Go off the grid in Hulu Cheka

Besides being known for its tasty durians, Hulu Cheka, a quiet kampung between Raub and Jerantut, is getting on the eco-tourism map thanks to community tourism activities focused on wildlife spotting and following another type of foul smell: Rafflesia cantleyi, nicknamed the ‘corpse flower’. It’s a different species from the Rafflesia arnoldii in Sumatra and Borneo, and it’s found deep in several jungle patches around this area.

SOMset Wildlife (facebook.com/somsetwildlife) was set up to promote conservation and prevent illegal logging in the area and has a 6m-high observation tower for bird-watching. Expect to see white-rumped shama, great argus pheasant and seven species of hornbills. Founder and nature guide Rafiz Azuan Ahmad (WhatsApp 019-335 1731) can also arrange tough four- to five-day treks to the summit of the 2107m-high Mt Benom looming above Hulu Cheka, which is reputed to be the home of Mawas, a Malaysian version of Bigfoot. Of course, sightings are not guaranteed.

EATING IN JERANTUT: OUR PICKS

Kedai Makan Sayed Mohd Aziz $ Perfect breakfast spot for some of the best roti canai (flaky, flat bread) and kopi (coffee) in the state.

Gypsy Garden $$ Long-established bohemian Jln Besar hangout and cafe with a creative, artsy outdoor setup, pizzas and comfort food.

Wan Chai Kok Restaurant $ This old-world wooden Chinese kopitiam rustles up rice dishes and has a handy English menu.

ZG Corner $ A great Malay nasi campur option (buffet of curried meats, fish and vegetables, served with rice) away from Jln Besar.

Kuantan

CAPITAL COOL | CITY BEACHES | ACCESSIBLE RAINFOREST

With beaches, great food and a lively centre on weekends, Pahang’s relaxed capital makes a cool base. Malaysia’s second-largest port sits on the gorgeous spot where the Kuantan River empties into the South China Sea, extending north and south to hug a long stretch of wind-swept coast. Relaxed, friendly Kuantan folks love camping and picnicking along this wealth of fine sand or are often found hiking the trails that crisscross the hills sheltering the bay.

In the city centre, an impressive mosque stands shoulder to shoulder with street art, open-air flea markets and a cheerful, youthful vibe. Opened in 2021, the Kuantan Tower 188, the second-highest viewing platform in the country, symbolises the city’s commitment to never give up on its long marathon to match the tourism developments of better-known cities along the west coast. It’s certainly time to give Kuantan’s city beaches, zesty food and chilled nightlife a go.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Museum of Contemporary Art

SIGHTS

2  Kuantan Art Street

3  Kuantan Tower 188

4  Masjid Sultan Ahmad Shah

5  Padang

SLEEPING

6  Hotel Sentral Kuantan

7  Mega View Hotel

EATING

See 6  Akob Patin House

8  Kula Cakes

See 3  NoriaKu

9  Restoran Khalsa Chapati House

SHOPPING

10  Pasor Dinda

GETTING AROUND

Kuantan’s compact city centre and efficient Rapid Kuantan bus system (myrapid.com.my/bus-train/rapid-kuantan) make it easy to get around the city and some satellite sights, such as Teluk Chempedak and Sungai Lembing, but Grab cars are also widely available.

It can be useful to hire a car to reach beaches out of town, but parking can be a nightmare on weekends and public holidays.

Explore the Padang

Grand mosque, museum and markets

Dive into the heart of the city at the Padang, overlooked by the east coast’s most impressive mosque, Masjid Sultan Ahmad Shah, which stands tall over the square’s eastern side. It’s most magical at night when its spires and turrets light up against the dark sky.

It’s a short walk to the whitewashed colonnade of the Museum of Contemporary Art. Five permanent exhibition halls focus on topics ranging from sounds and Malay ethnography to a gallery on the gambus, a short-necked lute originating in Yemen and popular in the Islamic world. Four other halls have temporary exhibits.

The museum closes on weekends, a counterintuitive choice, as the best time to explore the Padang is on Saturday night, when a lively street market spills stalls all over the square’s perimeter. Handicraft market Pasor Dinda is at the southern end of Kuantan Art Street, where talented women artisans sell cool jewellery and other handmade items.

TOP TIP

If you hire a car, download the PahangGo app (pahanggo.com/product.html) to pay for your parking via mobile phone and set automatic alarm reminders to extend the time.

KUANTAN’S STREET ART RENAISSANCE

Ever since Penang’s George Town grabbed the world’s attention with its murals, many other Malaysian cities have jumped on the bandwagon. Kuantan’s excellent collection of street art along Jln Taman (aka Kuantan Art Street) runs parallel to the south side of the Padang.

Check out more than 30 murals drawn by 13 Pahang artists between 26 and 52 years old. Among the most peculiar pieces on these walls are a large dragon etched vertically on the side of a building and a colourful portrait of legendary Malaysian singer-songwriter Sudirman Arshad (originally from Temerloh in Pahang). Other murals depict the indigenous people of Taman Negara in their jungle home and surfers braving the waves of Cherating Beach.

Take to the Sky at Kuantan Tower 188

Soak in the views and test your fears

Opened in 2021, the 188m-tall Kuantan Tower 188 is the second-highest viewing platform in the country after the 421m Kuala Lumpur Tower. It stands above Kuantan’s estuary, tempting visitors with grand views and vertigo-inducing thrills.

Two different tickets allow access to the upper, open-air 104m-tall Sky Deck or to the Observation Deck with floor-to-ceiling windows right below. The 360-degree views give a bird’s-eye perspective over the coast and Sungai Lembing’s foothills.

Adrenaline junkies without vertigo issues can brave the Sky Walk – a bowel-twisting rope course along the outer perimeter of the deck – or the Drop Zone, which sends you abseiling into thin air towards the river below.

Tuck Your Toes in the Sand at Teluk Chempedak

City beach for people-watching and coastal hikes

Teluk Chempedak, Kuantan’s most popular beach, hugs the easternmost cape of the Kuantan River estuary and has gentrified quite a bit in the past decade, with a barrage of Starbucks, Subway and McDonald’s outlets competing for visitors’ attention. For a quieter experience, come on a weekday or in the morning, take a walk on the beach and continue hiking north along the wooden boardwalk, skirting the coast until the smaller, beautiful cove of Pantai Teluk Tongkang, a completely different world of lonesome boulders.

South of the main Teluk Chempedak beach are more walking trails and the popular zoo and theme park Zoo Teruntum, whose main claim to fame is the Jurassic-themed Dinosaur Encounter park.

Trees, Monkeys & Beaches

Local-approved trails at Bukit Pelindung

Rising above Teluk Chempedak, green and healthy Bukit Pelindung is a popular local recreational hiking spot. A 1.3km-long tarred road climbs to 275m, where several telecommunication towers rise to the sky. But the fun way to go is entering the jungle trail that swerves right only a couple hundred metres from the start of the main paved road.

Walk up by keeping right at every junction to avoid returning to the concrete until you reach a midway rest point with some tables and chairs, called 690. From here, you can take a right turn following the 1380 sign and descend for about 1km until another fork in the road. The right-hand path continues 4km to Teluk Chempedak’s boardwalk. Bring a stick or elastic bands to fend off the particularly nasty endemic macaques. Otherwise, going left from 690, the trail reconnects to the tar road to the top, passing the actual starting point of the trail to Teluk Chempedak, a gazebo called Pondok Rehat 1.

Don’t come for the views; tall trees at the top mean you won’t see much.

BEST KUANTAN CITY BEACHES

Teluk Chempedak

Kuantan’s most popular beach is a wide bay with ample space and good facilities. It fills with locals on weekends.

Pantai Balok

Family-friendly beach with accommodation and campsites hugging the bay facing Balok village, 13km north of the city.

Pantai Pelindung

This large, wind-swept beach 6km north of town has unique rock formations and sees fewer visitors on weekdays.

Hujung Tanjung

The southern shore of the Kuantan River’s estuary harbours an offbeat end-of-the-road feel, with rustic wooden jetties and a mangrove backdrop.

Pantai Kempadang

Locals come this far south for great views stretching to Teluk Chempedak’s cape and good camping facilities.

WHERE TO EAT IN KUANTAN: OUR PICKS

Akob Patin House $ Kuantan institution for patin fish in a tempoyak (fermented durian sambal) sauce, or Malay meat and veg dishes.

Kula Cakes $ There’s always a queue for this corner shop famous for its signature mango cheesecakes and coffee.

NoriaKu $$ Enjoy sushi with panoramic views inside the observation deck of Kuantan Tower 188. You must purchase an entry ticket to dine.

Restoran Khalsa Chapati House $ A variety of filling fried rice, noodles, naan bread and chapati at budget prices.

Beyond Kuantan

Waterfalls, a cave temple, a surfing hot spot and sumptuous royal architecture: the larger Kuantan basin has many reasons to linger.

Kuantan’s surroundings are often overlooked, but they reward curious travellers with a wild variety of experiences.

A half-hour’s drive to the north is Kampung Cherating, the country’s longstanding surfer beach and the most popular spot along this otherwise empty coast that is a boon for adventurous travellers ready to explore authentic Malay culture. Northwest of Kuantan, the land curls into the cordon of hills surrounding Sungai Lembing, the region’s former tin-mining hub and starting point of several treks.

Going south towards Johor, make a beeline for the royal palaces of riverside Pekan, the seat of Pahang’s sultanate, exploring its regal museums and having a bite in a restaurant set inside an old train carriage.

GETTING AROUND

Rapid Kuantan and interstate buses connect all the major towns in the region, but a hire car comes in handy to maximise your time hopping between the sites. Some spots, such as Gua Charas, are out of the reach of city buses.

Sungai Lembing and Cherating are small and walkable, but the sights are more spread out around the Pekan River basin, where Grab is more useful and readily available.

CheratingTIME FROM KUANTAN: 20 MINS

Catch a wave and chill

Hugging a long bay with a sandy shelf that’s swimmable most of the year, the village of Cherating can be dead quiet outside the wet season. But when the monsoon comes in late October, reggae-style beachside shacks turn up the volume, and Malaysia’s surfer community comes to relax and enjoy waves reaching up to 2m. A point break rolls across the bay, and rides last 400m. The town has at least five surf schools, including Cherating Point Surf School, which opens between November and February.

You can also try kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, windsurfing and kitesurfing, with classes and equipment hire at most cafes in town.

EATING IN CHERATING: OUR PICKS

Loca Cafe $ Chilled-out vegetarian-friendly cafe for breakfast platters, juices, kombucha and tofu galore, attracting travellers and locals.

Nabill Cafe $ Streetside alfresco Malay ikan bakar (grilled fish) restaurant with rice and noodle staples; popular with locals and backpackers.

Ombok Surf Cafe $$ Cherating’s longstanding social hangout serves good machine-made coffee, light food and alternative beats.

Warung Faridah $ Great spot for a traditional breakfast, including spicy nasi dagang, lemang (a glutinous rice sweet) and nasi lemak.

Turtle, Cherating | Mailmuda/shutterstock ©

Shimmering trees and turtle trails

The mangrove-draped Sungai Cherating that empties into the bay is a haven for fireflies, Cherating’s second drawcard after the surf. Hafiz’s Cherating Activities runs boat tours every day except Monday from its jetty on the southern end of town. Boats glide on the river at dusk, approaching darkening mangroves as they light up intermittently like Christmas trees. Don’t put on mosquito repellent, or the fireflies won’t settle on you.

Also worth a visit is the small yet animal-friendly Turtle Sanctuary near the Club Med, with a few basins of baby and rehabilitating green turtles. It’s best to visit between April and September when observation tours follow returning turtles as they lay eggs on the beach, or you can join a hatchling release program.

PAHANG’S SHRINKING COAST

Serious erosion issues have been affecting Pahang’s 271km-long shoreline between the states of Terengganu and Johor. Most damage is related to the increasingly destructive powers of the monsoons.

In 2021, the phenomenon was particularly intense, resulting in sections of coasts, including the popular Cherating Beach and Teluk Chempedak in Kuantan, losing up to 4m of shoreline. Don’t be surprised to see ugly cinder blocks rising from the sand at these locations: it’s the only way some resorts can protect and maintain their precious sand. Authorities are looking for long-term solutions, but they are expensive: rehabilitation of a 1km stretch of coast costs about RM10 million (about US$2 million).

Sungai LembingTIME FROM KUANTAN: 45 MINS

Old mines and hilltop views

Walking along Sungai Lembing’s main and only central road today, it’s hard to imagine this quaint village’s glorious past as one of the country’s former tin-mining centres. Set on a bend of the Kenau River in a valley studded by hills 42km northwest of Kuantan, Sungai Lembing was founded in the early 1900s on the back of Malaya’s ‘gold rush’ for tin. As the industry declined after Malaysia’s independence, Sungai Lembing closed operations in 1987, pushing residents out and turning it into a ghost town. It still feels that way when browsing the row of beautiful wooden shophouses on a weekday.

The town’s most prominent landmark is a 120-year-old Big Tree that’s almost as old as the settlement itself. Sungai Lembing Museum, which is dedicated to the history of the town, sits on a hillock outside of the town centre. The exhibits are worth a look, but it all comes into real, dangerous perspective after a tour of the actual Sungai Lembing Tin Mines, though they were closed for maintenance at the time of research, with no announced reopening date.

Four hanging bridges connect the two sides of the Kenau River. Kolong Pahat Hanging Bridge, the oldest in town, is slung above the widest and deepest part of the river and leads to a cluster of old shophouses where you can try refreshing blue flower jelly tau foo fah.

The town is also famous for its stunning sunrise views of cotton-like awanano (carpet of clouds), blanketing the valley from the top of Bukit Panorama. On weekends, join the single-file line of hikers leaving Sungai Lembing’s main square as early as 5.30am to make the one-hour ascent to the peak, which still grants great views throughout the day. Or join the 4WD tours to Sunrise Hill and the stunning Rainbow Waterfall, where sunrays cast a rainbow across the bathing pool, best seen in October before the wet season starts.

You can visit Sungai Lembing’s Rainbow Waterfall only by hopping in a 4WD for the off-road one-hour drive to the checkpoint of Lubuk Beruk. The cost (RM60 per person) includes pickup from your hotel at about 5.30am or from the food court in the centre of town at 6am, as well as a visit to Sunset Hill, hot drinks and instant noodles, and a driver-guide. Patrick (WhatsApp 012-444 6424) is an English-speaking operator.

EATING IN SUNGAI LEMBING: OUR PICKS

Mountain Water Tau Fu Fah $ Watch the chefs hand-pull noodles and use the shophouse’s old kitchen to prepare delicious desserts.

Sungai Lembing Mining Restaurant $ Wholesome Chinese food prepared zi char (home-cooked style), plus beer.

Restoran Lai Seng $ One of the few Chinese restaurants with a Guanxi-style menu in Malaysia.

Seduh Kopi $$ Where the mining village raises the bar with an artsy ambience, espresso and crunchy waffles.

Gua Charas | Idzy Nazreen/shutterstock ©

WATERFALLS AROUND KUANTAN

Sungai Pandan

One of the largest multi-tiered falls in Peninsular Malaysia cascades from 250m over three levels, filling a large emerald-hued pool.

Rainbow Waterfall

A 4WD excursion from Sungai Lembing takes you to this skyscraper-high fall named after the rainbow that reflects above the rock pool between 9am and 10am.

Berkelah Falls

A 50m-high seven-tiered waterfall tucked in a forest park with campsites near Maran, reachable after trekking for about 5km.

Seri Mahkota

Taman Negeri Rompin’s almost vertical fall empties into a deep pool perfect for bathing. Get there from the roadside or trek from park headquarters.

Ja’ang Waterfall

This natural pool could fit four badminton courts. It’s a wild 4WD ride on a logging track and then a 1.5-hour trek to this idyllic campsite.

EATING IN PEKAN: OUR PICKS

Restoran Farouk Maju $ Mamak (Indian Muslim) joint with Indian snacks such as dosa, plus meals, including biryani rice dishes.

Kafe Gerabak Kopi $$ Malay-Western fusion dishes served inside a refurbished old train by the river near Museum Sultan Abu Bakar.

Murtabak Mengkasar $ Locals love the thick murtabak (meat- or veg-stuffed Indian pizza) drenched in red gravy and a side of curries.

Kedai Kopi Tien Lock $ Old-school Chinese kopitiam by the river serving tasty staple noodle and rice dishes for breakfast and lunch.

MORE TIN-MINING TOWNS

Sungai Lembing is Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast equivalent of the mining boomtowns in Perak state, such as Taiping, with its Lake Gardens and Maxwell Hill, and Ipoh, famous for its cave temples and food culture.

Buddhism and Hinduism in a cave

Rising in the middle of the plains near the small town of Panching, the Gua Charas stone massif is home to the Sivan Hindu temple. Sticking up like a green thumb amidst endless palm oil estates, this 355m-tall grand limestone is approximately 400 million years old and sacred to Hindus and Buddhists. After climbing the stairs leading to the enormous cave mouth, the scent of humidity and bat guano accompanies the descent to a hollow of mixed spirituality. In the centre of the chamber is the colourful gopuram (tower) of a Hindu shrine. A collection of many other Buddhist and Hindu deities peppers the walking path to the back of the cave, where an impressive 9m-long reclined Buddha lies. The cave is open longer during Hindu celebrations when devotees perform rituals.

PekanTIME FROM KUANTAN: 45 MINS

Riverside sultanate

It’s no wonder that the Pahang Sultanate chose Pekan as its charming seat, scenically situated at the mouth of the Pahang River. Many grand buildings, wide streets, pristine lawns and a large polo field rub elbows with noble palaces slowly decaying under the battering force of tropical sun and rain. The town has a magnificently restored mosque, the snow-white Sultan Abdullah Mosque, fronted by a speckle of water and dating from 1929. The forlorn Istana Leban Tunggal, unfortunately, had a different fate. Built in 1935, the wood and stone palace with unusual twin yellow cupolas shows some serious wear and tear.

The historic Royal Pahang Polo Club is next to Istana Abu Bakar, the inaccessible sultan’s palace whose imposing facade should be at least seen from the outside. The Museum Sultan Abu Bakar goes deep into the history of the Pahang royal family and displays weapons, Chinese porcelain and Arab ceramics unearthed on Pulau Tioman, and exhibits on the state’s wildlife. Attached to the museum is Kafe Belibis, a riverside cafe inspired by the old Malayan Railway. A stationary train carriage has been refurbished with dining tables where you can have a scenic cuppa or a meal.

Muzium Pulau Beram, a boat museum with a sculpture garden and ethnobotany health park, is under construction across the road. Check muziumpahang.com for updates.

THE END OF TASIK CHINI?

The story of Tasik Chini – Malaysia’s first UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and the second-largest natural freshwater lake in Peninsular Malaysia – is a sad example of putting business before precious natural heritage. The home of a mythical dragon god for the indigenous Jakun people, the lake was a hot spot for tourism, but after years of pollution from deforestation, mining and plantation activities in the surrounding area, most of the water lilies that covered it and attracted tourists disappeared.

The site has not lost its UNESCO title yet, although since COVID-19, the Lake Chini Resort looms empty on the shore, as dishevelled and lost as the chances for tourism to pick up again soon.

Sultan Abdullah Mosque | langitilham/shutterstock ©

ANCIENT CAPITAL

Pekan may look like a quiet backwater town today, but its royal palaces and architecture suggest an ancient and glorious lineage. This settlement on the mouth of the Pahang River is believed to have existed since the 5th century, when it was known as Inderapura, and served as the capital of the Old Pahang Kingdom, a historic Malay polity, which, at its height, covered much of the modern state of Pahang and the southern part of the peninsula. The Old Pahang Kingdom declined in the middle of the 15th century CE when it was brought under the influence of the rising Malacca Sultanate, of which it became a vassal Muslim sultanate.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Kuala Lipis

UDesign Hotel $ Well-appointed rooms, including large singles, within walking distance to the town’s main roundabout.

Star-Well Hotel $$ Business-oriented boutique hotel with the best rooms in town, set across the bridge and in front of the bus station.

Gua Musang, Merapoh & Pulai

Merapoh Adventure Guesthouse $ Merapoh’s main caving operator also offers the best accommodations in the village.

Welcome Inn GM $$ Large and clean rooms at this Chinese-run homey hotel that’s a bit removed from Gua Musang’s centre.

Raub

Hotel Seri Raub $ This old dame shows its age, but the en-suite rooms are large, clean and in the middle of town.

Hotel Jelai $ Tucked in a quiet back lane a two-minute walk from the main strip, Hotel Jelai has well-appointed rooms with wooden floors.

Bentong

Hotel Zamburger $ Owned by a former burger flipper, it has clean, modern rooms on the northern side of the old town.

Gibbon Retreat $$$ Camp or stay at a treetop chalet in the 78-hectare privately owned Rock Forest Reserve and bask in a rock pool by the river.

Bukit Fraser

Puncak Inn $ Central budget choice above the Information Centre; has a restaurant with excellent views.

Ye Olde Smokehouse $$$ Dive into Malaysia’s colonial past at this excellent English countryside home in the tropics opened in 1924.

Jerantut

Jerantut Hill Resort $ Two blocks of smart rooms perched on a hill 2km out of town, with an outdoor pool and waterslide.

Hotel Darulmakmur $$ Super central 78 rooms in four categories, with carpeted floors and colonial-style four-poster beds.

Kuala Tahan

Agosto Taman Negara Hostel $ Happening backpacker spot with solid wood bunks, capsule beds with lockers and a convivial atmosphere.

Yellow Guesthouse $ Friendly vibes and fan-cooled rooms with private balconies that open to the garden and a flower-studded outdoor seating area.

Kuantan

Hotel Sentral Kuantan $$ Attractive boutique hotel with chromed-out styling and deluxe rooms featuring floor-to-ceiling views of the river.

Mega View Hotel $$ Good-value, modern rooms at this perfectly located midrange hotel set on the riverwalk near Kuantan Tower 118.

Cherating

Villa de Fedelia $$ Homey chalets mix east coast Malay style and boutique chic, with lovely sea-facing verandas for stunning sunrises.

Royale Chulan Cherating Villas $$$ Few spots in town beat these villas set around a free-form pool by the cape on the beach’s northern end.

Sungai Lembing

T-Box Sungai Lembing $ Good budget option with a Japanese futon concept and pricier wooden cabins.

Time Capsule Retreat $$ Mix of glamping and flashpacker resort, with traditional hotel rooms and capsule pods surrounded by rainforest.

Pekan

Pekan Budget Hotel $ These fan-cooled rooms with flat-screen TVs make for a comfortable night in the centre of town.

Ancasa Royale $$ Sleek four-star hotel overlooking the river, with well-equipped rooms and an outdoor pool that compensate for its location on the far side of the bridge.

Peninsular Malaysia’s Northeast

TROPICAL ISLANDS, VIBRANT CITIES AND A JUNGLE-CLAD INTERIOR

Spend your days basking on the beach or snorkelling coral reefs, followed by eco-adventures from the Jungle Railway and cultural forays on photogenic city streets.

Perhentian Islands | haveseen/shutterstock ©

Paradise is an oft-bandied word when it comes to tropical islands but it’s hard to think of a better description for the collection of alluring escapes off Malaysia’s northeast coast. You’ll feel you’ve entered another world as you lay eyes on the white sands and azure waters of Pulau Perhentian, Pulau Redang or Pulau Kapas. Snorkellers and divers revel in these crystal-clear waters featuring colourful reefs teeming with marine life. There’s also hikes through island forests, passing inviting beaches, shimmering butterflies and perhaps curious macaques.

Hafizzuddin/shutterstock ©

Travellers prepared to explore beyond the island resorts will find a distinctive vibe in cities like Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu. These urban hubs have retained their Malay heritage and feature lively Chinatown districts, but are also developing rapidly and reinventing themselves. Nature lovers will want to spend time exploring the national parks protecting the remaining pockets of rainforest and best accessed along the famous jungle railway.

This expanse of Malaysia is a stronghold of Malay culture – with traditions like kite making, top spinning and batik painting still surviving despite the influx of modern development. Kelantan is one of Malaysia’s most conservative regions – the Islamic Party of Malaysia (PAS) has ruled the state since 1990 and has made ongoing attempts to introduce strict sharia laws that are continually overruled by the federal government. But despite the conservative political environment, the Kelantanese are very welcoming to visitors.

THE MAIN AREAS

KOTA BHARU

Culture and craftmakers.

PERHENTIAN ISLANDS

Beaches, snorkelling and hiking.

KUALA TERENGGANU

Malaysia’s most atmospheric Chinatown.

Find Your Way

Anchoring the northeast corner of Peninsular Malaysia, this region has a good mix of culturally vibrant (and food-loving) cities, forested adventures in the interior and some of the country’s most enticing islands. You can tick off the highlights in five days or spend two weeks delving deeper.

Plan Your Time

Prioritise the islands, but be sure to leave time for wandering less trammelled city lanes and eco-tourism adventures in the interior.

Long Beach, Perhentian Islands | Sondipon/shutterstock ©

Pressed for Time

Start in Kuala Besut and catch the boat straight out to the Perhentian Islands. Base yourself near Perhentian Village on Pulau Kecil, and walk the forest trails up to Long Beach for lunch and a swim. Afterwards, catch a boat over to Pulau Besar for some snorkelling and downtime on the supremely photogenic Teluk Keke.

Five Days to Travel Around

After visiting the islands, head to Kota Bharu. See the city highlights of Istana Jahar, Istana Batu and the small War Museum. Catch the train to Dabong for caving, hiking and tubing. End with Kuala Terengganu, where you can take in a river cruise, try fruits in the market and enjoy snacks and street art in Chinatown.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

MARCH TO MAY

Heavy rains dissipate, and resorts on the Perhentians and other islands reopen for the season. Visitor numbers remain low.

JUNE TO AUGUST

Rain-free skies and fairly calm seas. Expect crowds and higher prices during peak season.

SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER

Fewer island crowds and decent weather with occasional downpours.

NOVEMBER TO FEBRUARY

Steamy weather, frequent downpours. Most island resorts close. Mainland towns can receive flooding.

Kota Bharu

NORTHERN DELICACIES | CULTURAL TREASURES | HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE

The northernmost major city in Malaysia is also one of its most devoutly Muslim and it is deeply grounded in traditional Malay heritage. Kota Bharu has all the energy of a midsized city with the compact feel and friendly vibe of a small town. There are excellent markets and ample opportunities to taste superb local cuisine, and some fine bases for exploring the area with KB’s good mix of budget-friendly guesthouses and upscale business hotels. This is a logical overnight stop between Thailand and the resort islands of neighbouring Terengganu: Perhentian and Redang.

Kota Bharu is the gateway for exploring the culture and history of Kelantan. Various museums provide insight into the city’s complicated past, many traditional Malay villages and colourful Thai Buddhist temples are within day-tripping distance, and local crafts, cuisine and culture can be found while strolling in the city itself. For exploring the interior, the enticing jungle railway passes by Kota Bharu’s doorstep.

SIGHTS

1  Gelanggang Seni

2  Istana Batu

3  Istana Jahar

4  Kampung Kraftangan

5  Muzium Negeri Kelanta

6  Padang Merdeka

7  Streetart Gallery

8  War Museum

COURSES & TOURS

See 4  Zecsman Design

SLEEPING

9  Grand Riverview Hotel

10  Perdana Kota Bharu

EATING

See 10  Cafe Cerana

11  Daughter Bakes

12  Kedai Kopi Lama

13  Kedai Kopi White House

14  Medan Warisan Makan

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

15  Golden City

SHOPPING

16  Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah

INFORMATION

17  Kelantan Tourist Information Centre

TRANSPORT

18  Terminal Bas Kota Bharu

GETTING AROUND

Sultan Ismail Petra Airport is 10km outside Kota Bharu’s centre. Taxis cost around RM40 from the airport. All local and long-distance buses operate from the Terminal Bas Kota Bharu, about 2.5km south of the centre.

Trishaws are sometimes around Central Market. Prices are negotiable but start around RM6 and upwards for a short journey of up to 1km.

Avoid unlicensed cab drivers who will pester you around town, and take an official taxi. You can also book a Grab, which offer affordable, reliable transport.

Kota Bharu’s Key Cultural Centre

Top spinning, puppets and drumming

About 1.5km southeast of Padang Merdeka, the Gelanggang Seni plays a vital role in the city’s cultural life. The regular lineup includes gasing uri (top spinning), silat (a Malay martial art), kite making and drumming, along with shadow-puppet shows. The events are kid-friendly and all are free. In general, events happen on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, but check with the tourist information centre for the latest timetable.

TOP TIP

The welcoming Kelantan Tourist Information Centre, a few blocks south of the street art gallery, can advise on events around town.

KOTA BHARU’S KITE MAKERS

Kota Bharu’s most experienced guide, Roselan Hanafia has been leading one-of-a-kind tours for over 45 years (WhatsApp +60 12-909 6068).

Kite making is an old tradition, but it continues to be passed down so younger artists are keeping the craft alive. All the kites are handmade from bamboo and paper and typically feature floral motifs. Depending on the size it may take as long as a month to make one. There are two types: decorative and flying kites, which are much bigger. Every year in July, we have an international kite festival that draws kite fliers and makers from around the world – the best time to see these works in action.

Exploring Past & Present

Plazas and palace museums

A good place to start your exploring in Kota Bharu is near Padang Merdeka (Independence Field), a gated-off plaza (and former marketplace) that has witnessed a few major events over the years – including the declaration of Independence from Great Britain in 1957.

One of Kota Bharu’s most attractive traditional buildings, the strikingly geometric Istana Jahar with its five-sided entrance porch also houses Kota Bharu’s best museum. The collection here includes detailed descriptions of batik weaving, the elaborate ceremonies of coming-of-age circumcision, wedding nights and funerary rites.

Nearby, the pale-yellow Istana Batu, constructed in 1939, was once the crown prince’s palace. Now a museum, the colourfully painted furnished rooms give an intimate insight into royal life, with family photos and personal belongings scattered among the regal furnishings and displays.

Relics of the War

Kota Bharu’s harrowing WWII collection

Built in 1912 for the Mercantile Bank of India, the Bank Kerapu building was the first stone structure built in Kelantan. During WWII it was the HQ of the Kempai Tai, Japan’s feared secret police. Today it is better known as the War Museum, thanks to its focus on the Japanese invasion and occupation of Malaya and the 1948 Emergency. Exhibits mainly consist of old photography and vintage weaponry – including terrifying replicas of the atom bombs dropped on Japan.

Market Excitement

Kota Bharu’s buzzing epicentre

After taking in a touch of history, fast-forward to the present at one of the most colourful and active markets in Malaysia. Sprawling Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah is at its busiest first thing in the morning. Downstairs is the fresh produce section, while upstairs there are stalls selling spices, brassware and batik. Also on the first floor is a tasty array of food stalls that are a top spot for breakfast or lunch.

EATING IN KOTA BHARU: RESTAURANTS & FOOD MARKETS

Medan Warisan Makan $ Amazing variety at night market with Malay classics, chargrilled whole fish and deep-fried jackfruit.

Golden City $$ This pub-like spot is great for lager on draft, fish and chips and Muay Thai on the TV.

Samurai Yakini $$ The top option in town when it comes to steaming bowls of ramen and cook-your-own tender Wagyu beef.

Cafe Cerana $$$ Inside the Perdana Hotel, you’ll find the best buffet in town – a great place to eat a little of everything in one decadent feast.

Istana Jahar | GCS71/shutterstock ©

The Urban Canvas

Street art in hidden lanes

A short walk south of the market, make your way to an alley lined with street art. The colourful display of vibrant work covers several connecting lanes between Jln Ismail and Jln Dato Pati. There are depictions of smiling locals at work and play and idyllic jungle scenes, but the overwhelming majority of the murals graphically depict conflict and suffering in the Middle East.

Malay Culture on Display

The city’s state museum

Around the corner from the tourist information centre, the tiny Muzium Negeri Kelanta is the official state museum. The exhibits on Kelantan’s history and culture are interesting, and cover everything from shadow puppetry dance drama known as Mak Yong to folk singing and traditional Malay martial arts.

BEST TOURS & WORKSHOPS

Cooking

Roselan offers a memorable cooking workshop where you’ll learn how to make classic Malay dishes including an exquisite fish curry (WhatsApp 012-909 6068).

Kites

Roselan also offers one-of-a-kind tours to visit kite makers and learn about their craft, from creating the design to piecing and sewing together the bamboo and paper elements.

Batik Painting

Located inside Kampung Kraftangan, Zecsman Design teaches you batik painting in a tutored four-hour class.

Fireflies

Min House Camp offers a range of activities from its waterside location east of town, including guided kayaking trips to see fireflies.

EATING IN KOTA BHARU: CAFES & BREAKFAST SPOTS

Kedai Kopi Lama $ Follow the scent of fresh espresso to this vintage-looking spot with excellent coffees and other fare.

Kedai Kopi White House $ Near Istana Jahar, this old-school Chinese coffee shop serves tea, coffee and snacks. Mornings only.

Kopitiam Kita $ Kota Bharu’s most famous roti titab – toast with a runny egg and kaya (coconut jam) – and teh tarik (hot, sweet milky tea).

Daughter Bakes $ Berry-topped tarts, flaky croissants, decadent cinnamon rolls and other temptations in an inviting cafe setting.

Beyond Kota Bharu

See a different perspective of Kelantan with Thai-style temples, easy-to-reach beaches and a jungle railway leading to forests, waterfalls and caves.

Located to the north of Kota Bharu, the Tumpat district is Malaysia’s culturally diverse hinterland, neither wholly Malay nor Thai, with a dash of Chinese culture thrown in. Tumpat is a major agricultural area with picture-postcard villages fringed by a lush green sea of rice paddies. The big draw is the impressive array of Buddhist temples in the area. Southwest of Kota Bharu, the lush interior lures those seeking a heady dose of nature, with caves, waterfalls and forests setting the stage for a day of adventure near Dabong.

An even closer attraction to Kota Bharu is the shoreline. Although the beaches don’t quite compare to those magnificent island gems further south, Pantai Cinta Berahi makes for a quick seaside escape.

SIGHTS

1  Pantai Cahaya Bulan

2  Wat Kok Seraya

3  Wat Machimmaram

4  Wat Maisuwankiri

5  Wat Phothivihan

6  Wat Pikulthong

7  Wat Prachumthat Chanaram

SLEEPING

8  Min House Camp

9  Pasir Belanda

EATING

10  Kopitiam Kita

11  Samurai Yakini

TRANSPORT

12  Terminal Bas Kota Bharu

13  Wakaf Baharu Train Station

GETTING AROUND

The easiest way to visit the Thai temples of Tumpat is on an organised tour out of Kota Bharu (most guesthouses can easily arrange this), which typically includes stops at four or five temples. Alternatively, it is possible to go by a combination of public transport and long walks, though you’ll need a lot more time on your hands. For Dabong, riding the jungle railway is a big part of the appeal, with several trains daily departing from Wakaf Baharu, some 10km outside of Kota Bharu.

Tumpat TIME FROM KOTA BHARU: 30 MINS

Touring Thai temples

Bordering Thailand, the Thai influence of Tumpat is conspicuous with numerous colourful Thai temples rising above the trees. The journey begins some 16km west of Khota Bharu. This is where you’ll find one of the largest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia, Wat Phothivihan, with its 40m-long reclining Buddha statue. There are some smaller shrines within the grounds, as well as a canteen and a rest house for use by devotees, for a donation.

At Chabang Empat, if you turn north at the traffic light in front of the police station, after about 1km you will come to Wat Kok Seraya, which houses a modest standing female Buddha. While the temple’s architecture is Thai, the female Buddha has Chinese features, which is probably attributable to most Buddhists here being of Chinese origin.

Around 4km north of Chabang Empat near the village of Kampung Bukit Tanah is Wat Maisuwankiri. A richly decorated dragon boat surrounded by murky water constitutes the ‘floating temple’. Be prepared however for stray dogs in the area. Further north towards Tumpat is Wat Pikulthong, which houses an impressive gold mosaic standing Buddha.

Also worth a look is Wat Machimmaram with its magnificent 50m-high seated Buddha (more Chinese than Thai, allegedly the largest of its type in Asia). Just across the road from here is Wat Prachumthat Chanaram, a Thai temple and village complex dotted with colourful statues. They are located about 2km south of Tumpat.

Ride the jungle railway

For immersion in Kelantan’s wild interior, hop on the so-called jungle railway, which skirts past forested hills, across meandering rivers and through rolling countryside dotted with tiny villages and farm fields. Views of Peninsular Malaysia’s mountainous backbone and the odd monkey sighting from the train still evoke a feeling of tropical frontier adventure. You can start at Tumpat for the full experience, or save yourself some travel time by departing from the Wakaf Baharu, which is only 10km from Kota Bharu. The ride to Dabong generally takes about 3½ hours (2½ hours by pricier express trains).

KELANTAN DISHES

Nasi Kerabu

Rice tinted light blue from a flower, tossed with herbs and seasonings.

Roti Titab

Thick slices of toast topped with a runny egg and dabs of sweet, spreadable kaya (coconut jam).

Laksam

A twist on Malaysia’s best-known dish, laksam adds coconut to its fish-based broth.

Ayam Percik Kelantan

Chicken smothered in a thick, rich gravy made of lemongrass, coconut and tamarind.

DABONG’S WILD SIDE

Bob Bukhari is the founder and lead tour guide of Stong Outdoor Adventure @stongoutdoorsxventure

It’s easy to miss the hidden details of nature when you’re exploring the area. Slow down and you’re more likely to see two species of bats in the cave, trapdoor spiders and lantern-back grasshoppers (they have their own illumination source which glows at night). Come in the morning just after dawn for the best chance to see gibbons in the surrounding forest. Dusk is the best time to see frogmouths (a type of bird) flying into the cave with their catch to have a predator-free meal – though even if you don’t see them, you can still find the leftovers (snail shells).

Wat Machimmaram | MajestiX B/shutterstock ©

DabongTIME FROM KOTA BHARU: 3½ HRS

Base camp for jungle adventures

Lined with flowers, trees and a mixture of old- and new-style kampung (village) houses, the pretty jungle town of Dabong is an excellent launchpad for adventures. The town has restaurants, shops and guesthouses, and a lively Wednesday market.

Exploring Dabong’s caves

There are several caves in the limestone outcrops a few kilometres southeast of Dabong; Gua Ikan (Fish Cave) is the most accessible, but with artificial light it’s not as impressive as the caves across the road. You’ll hike up through forest for 10 minutes to reach the entrance of Gua Pagar. From there, it’s a scenic walk past classic features like stalactites, columns and curtains as well as well-signed seaweed fossils that attest to the region’s sea bottom location more than 150 million years ago. The path ultimately links to Gua Keris, named after the sword-like column near the entrance. Come early in the midmorning to see the so-called Godlight when you can stand beneath a dramatic ray of sunlight streaming through an opening overhead.

Trails and waterfalls

After a cave adventure, you can experience the region’s junglelike exterior on a visit to Gunung Stong State Park. Named for the 1422m-high Gunung Stong mountain, this 220 sq km park, only 15km from Dabong, features beautiful stepped waterfalls and offers some rewarding hikes. From the main entrance near the run-down Gunung Stong Resort, you can head out on one of two short hikes. Go left for the 700m-long trail up to the base of the stunning Stong Waterfall, which shimmers in stages down a rockface on its 303m journey – it’s considered the tallest in Southeast Asia. Crossing the Indiana Jones–style hanging bridge leads you on a steeper climb but without the waterfall views at the end. Keep an eye out, and an ear open, for siamang gibbons in the treetops above the resort.

Tubing the Kenorong

You can cap the day with a bit of waterside activity on the Kenorong River. You can cool off on a rafting or kayaking trip along a stretch of some 2.7km. But the easy currents are even better for a leisurely tubing ride. You’ll glide through verdant forests with rolling mountains off in the distance. Some sections are so shallow you may need to get out and drag the tube (depending on water levels). Others are deep enough for a refreshing swim along the way.

Visitors who want to experience it all can pack everything in on a long day trip from Kota Bharu, though for a more leisurely experience, spend the night in the area and spread out the activities over two days.

Make the most out of the experience by hiring a local guide (keep in mind that there aren’t any taxis in Dabong so a guide is fairly essential). The experienced and well-regarded Bukhari ‘Bob’ Mat is one of the best in the business. With good English skills and boundless enthusiasm for the area, Bob leads caving, hiking and rafting tours (contact him via WhatsApp: 19-979 1099).

Pantai Cinta Berahi TIME FROM KOTA BHARU: 30 MINS

Beachside escape

Kota Bharu’s main beach was once known as Pantai Cinta Berahi, or the Beach of Passionate Love. In keeping with Islamic sensibilities, it’s now known as Pantai Cahaya Bulan or Moonlight Beach. Most people call it ‘PCB’. Erosion events have seen the installation of a concrete breakwater, but PCB’s sandy sprawl is still worth considering for a seafood lunch. The road leading to PCB is quite pretty, especially by bicycle, and there are batik shops and workshops along the way.

HEADING TO THAILAND

The Thai border is at Rantau Panjang, around 40km west of Kota Bharu. Buses operated by MRD (Mutiara Rentas Desa) run every 30 to 90 minutes from 7am until 6pm. The journey takes about 1½ hours. These depart from a bus stop on Jln Padang Garong. Taxis shave the travel time to about 45 minutes. From Rantau Panjang you can walk across the border to Sungai Kolok, where you can arrange ongoing transport (several buses and daily trains to Bangkok), and minibuses to Hat Yai.

There’s another border crossing via ferry at Pengkalan Kubor, on the coast, reachable via MRD bus 27 from the same bus stop.

The Perhentian Islands

UNDERWATER EXPLORATION | TROPICAL BEACHES | FOREST WALKS

Imagine crystal-clear waters reflecting turquoise skies and perfect for diving and snorkelling, wildlife-rich jungles, and beaches with blindingly white sand. At night, beach bonfires and phosphorescence in the water illuminate the velvety black fabric of darkness, and myriad stars are mirrored above. The Perhentians offer all this and more.

Your biggest dilemma on the Perhentians may well be choosing the right beach as your base. There are two main islands, Kecil (‘Small’), popular with the younger backpacker crowd, and Besar (‘Large’), with higher standards of accommodation and a more relaxed ambience. Boats can take you out to five smaller islands for day trips.

Perhentian means ‘stopping point’ in Malay, a likely reference to its strategic location as a waypoint on historic trade routes between Thailand and Malaysia. These days the name could just as easily apply to travellers who end up spending far more time on these captivating islands than originally planned.

SIGHTS

1  Adam and Eve Beach

2  Coral Bay

3  Coral Gardens

4  Fishermen Village

5  Flora Bay

6  Long Beach

7  Main Beach

8  Pasir Tani

9  Shark Point

10  Teluk Dalam

11  Teluk Keke

12  Teluk Kerma

13  Teluk Pauh

14  Terumbu Tiga

15  Tuna Bay

16  Turtle Point

17  Wind Turbines

SLEEPING

18  Mimpi Perhentian

19  Perhentian Island Resort

EATING

20  Awatif Cafe

21  Medan Selera

22  Rosemary Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

23  Joe’s Perhentian

GETTING AROUND

To reach the islands, you’ll have to first get to Kuala Besu; from its jetty, speedboats head to the Perhentians roughly every two hours between 8am and 4pm. The boats will drop you off at any of the beaches. During low season, boats travel only twice a day, around 8am and 11am.

In the other direction, speedboats depart from the islands three times daily. Let your guesthouse owner know a day before you leave so they can arrange a pickup.

Snorkelling off Besar

DIY aquatic adventures

Both of the Perhentian Islands have some superb snorkelling sites among coral reefs, and you’ll also find some pristine reefs fringing the nearby uninhabited islands. There are also a few wreck dives when you want to branch out. Most guesthouses rent snorkelling gear and organise snorkelling trips.

If you’re just out for a DIY snorkelling adventure, you’ll find some prime spots within swimming distance of the shore. A good place to start is off the beach in Teluk Pauh, located on the west side of Besar. Here you’ll find shallow seagrass beds, where you might spy sea turtles that come to feed on the inviting vegetation. Just west of the seagrass beds is a coral reef that draws oversized green humphead parrotfish and lots of other colourful marine life. You’ll find the beach just a few steps from the luxury Perhentian Island Resort.

Another fine snorkelling spot on Besar lies off of Teluk Keke. Rocky outcroppings offshore rise above reefs that are home to flitting clownfish hiding among the sea anemones as well as damselfish, triggerfish and the occasional ray. You can get there by heading south on foot from Main Beach – it’s about a 10-minute walk from Abdul’s Chalets.

TOP TIP

Boat operators will encourage you to buy a return ticket when you’re heading out to the island, but keep in mind the ticket is only valid for that particular operator. For more flexibility, you’re better off buying one-way and purchasing your return out on the island.

Sugar Wreck | Cardinal illustration/shutterstock ©

ISLAND PRACTICALITIES

Conservation fee

The conservation fee (adult/child RM30/15) for entering the marine park around Pulau Perhentian is payable at the jetty in Kuala Besut.

Money

There are no banks or ATMs on the islands. If you run out of money, several resorts on both islands accept payment and offer cash advances on credit or bank cards linked with Visa and Mastercard with a surcharge of between 5% and 10%. There are even fewer places willing to exchange major international currencies for ringgit.

Communications

Free wi-fi is ubiquitous on both islands at accommodation and restaurants. Don’t expect it to be fast or available outside common areas. If you’re planning on using your own smartphone, Celcom has the best 3G local broadband coverage

Guided Snorkelling Trips

Boating to undersea wonders

Guided trips can take you to numerous other rewarding underwater spots. You can arrange these on both Kecil and Besar. On a half-day trip, you’ll typically visit three different snorkelling stops, while on a full-day tour, boat operators will also take you to three snorkelling spots along with a stop for lunch and some downtime on the beach. Destinations may change depending on weather and water conditions, but there are a few favourite places that feature heavily in many itineraries.

Shark Point is aptly named for the abundant blacktip reef sharks here. You might also spot turtles, barracuda, moray eels and giant clams. Turtle Point, north of Main Beach, likewise lives up to its moniker with a sandy bottom where you can spot grazing turtles.

On the southwest side of Besar, Coral Gardens is sometimes referred to as Fish Point or even Nemo Point. The water here is deeper but fairly calm, making it a fine spot for novice snorkellers. Here, the colourful fish are almost as abundant as the goggle-eyed tour groups. Coral is abundant, though it’s not particularly healthy.

EATING ON KECIL: OUR PICKS

Rosemary Restaurant $ Family-run spot on the island’s east side has an extensive menu of Malaysian and western fare.

Joe’s Perhentian $$ Steps from Long Beach, Joe’s channels the friendly island vibes with tropical cocktails plus nachos and other snacks.

Awatif Cafe $$ Perched on Long Beach you can enjoy good breakfast selections as well as ample lunch and dinner choices (vegetarian, too).

Medan Selera $ In Fishermen Village jutting out over the water, this row of simple warung serves Malaysian classics morning to night.

A Diver’s Wonderland

Dramatic underwater scenery

Scuba divers will have to make some tough decisions – there are just too many amazing sites to cram into a short trip. Of particular note is one of the islands’ most famous dive sites, Tukun Laut, which is sometimes called ‘temple of the sea’. It’s a pinnacle that’s packed with diverse marine life – from squid, rays and giant puffers to hidden bamboo sharks and large schools of snappers.

Terumbu Tiga, better known as the ‘Three Brothers’ or T3, is another exceptional and popular dive site consisting of three massive rock formations, near swim-throughs and small caverns. There’s plenty of diversity, including soft and hard corals, turtles, reef sharks, barracuda and pipefish.

Beyond these popular sites, operators also run day trips to Pulau Lang Tengah and Pulau Redang, where you can explore more aquatic wonders including Redang’s protected marine park. As elsewhere in the region, monsoon weather (November to March) rules out any diving off the islands with rough, turbid seas and most places shuttered for the season.

Wreck Diving

Sea life and photo ops

Pasir Tani, better known as the Vietnamese wreck, lies on a sandy bottom around 23m deep, and is intriguing for its nudibranchs, barracuda, leopard sharks, plus seahorses and other tiny creatures – including the occasional blue-ringed octopus. Currents can be rough depending on the day’s conditions.

Resting at depth of 18m, the larger Sugar Wreck (officially the MV Union Star 17) is a 90m cargo ship and the biggest wreck in the region. This ranks highly among divers as there’s an abundance of marine life, and plenty of great vantage points – all of which makes for some fun and memorable exploring and underwater photography.

HIKING SAFETY

Be prepared before setting out, and be sure to let someone know where you’re going and when you plan to be back. The paths can often be slippery, so make sure you’re wearing reliable footwear (not sandals). A walking stick will give peace of mind and can also help remove spiderwebs you may encounter along the way. Take plenty of water and snacks and prepare for obstacles en route (namely trees fallen across the path – more prevalent when visiting during the wet season). There’s also a bit of climbing and descending, and journey times can be slow, so leave ample time to get back before dark. Don’t forget insect repellent!

Hitting the Trail

Hikes through verdant forest

Rising above the white-sand beaches of both islands are lush hillsides where hikers can get their fix walking scenic trails and taking in panoramic views and a bit of wildlife. Best of all, after the hike you can cool off with a dip in those inviting cerulean waters.

On Kecil one of the best views over the island is atop Windmill Point towards the north end of the island. Get there by following a path that starts near the Mimpi resort on Long Beach. From there, it’s about 1km (allow about 25 minutes for the moderately uphill hike) to reach a pair of windmill turbines and the lookout over the rugged, wave-dashed northern shores. Don’t attempt to head down the abandoned stairs to the water as you risk serious injury. Instead, you can extend the walk a few kilometres by continuing north to Teluk Kerma, where you can enjoy a relaxing break on the seaside before making the return.

Another Kecil gem is the partly paved and signposted track over the hill between Long Beach and Coral Bay. It’s about 1km, though if you’re feeling ambitious, you can keep going and make a complete loop around the southern half of the island. Allow at least two hours to make the 8km journey, and be prepared for some scrambling and route-finding, as parts of the trail are overgrown.

On Besar, the best hiking outing brings you along the fairly well maintained loop that roughly follows the western shoreline from the Perhentian Island Resort past Tuna Bay, then turns eastward just before Teluk Keke. From here, it’s uphill going (around 80m elevation gain, but quite steep in sections), then a descent down to lovely Flora Bay. Keep following the shore before making a final climb inland to complete the loop at the Perhentian Island Resort.

HIGH & LOW SEASON TRAVEL

If you come during peak season (June to August), it’s wise to reserve ahead – and be prepared for substantially higher rates than mainland accommodation. During the wet season, only a handful of places remain open, and those that do often cut their prices in half. Travelling in the wet only attracts a few hardier travellers. Perhentian Village on Kecil is the best place to base with local restaurants and shops providing essential services. Other parts of Kecil and Besar feel quiet and abandoned. If you don’t mind the rain and lack of activities, you can reconnect with nature without the crowds.

Kecil’s Mesmerising Shores

Day on the beach

Even if you’re not a fan of spending the day on the palm-fringed seaside, it’s hard not to fall for the wave-kissed shorelines of the Perhentians. There’s ample variety from spacious strands ideal for long, meditative strolls to tiny, forested coves hidden away from the masses. And when you need a change of scenery, you can always hop onto a water taxi and zip to another locale.

Coral Bay has a lovely setting of calm clear waters and a few resorts well placed for sunset views. It’s perfect for those wanting to stay within easy walking distance of Long Beach’s party vibe without being in the midst of it. From Coral Beach you can also easily access several other sandy beaches heading south along the walking track that leads to Fishermen Village (aka Perhentian Village).

Well-known Long Beach is an attractive stretch of sand. It has umbrella-shaded lounges and the biggest party vibe of the Perhentians. Those looking for a natural paradise might find this to be a little overdeveloped. There can be crowds, and sadly petty crime (keep an eye on your belongings on the beach) as well as noise from the nightlife.

For a secluded getaway, make the trek to Adam and Eve Beach, which is about an hour’s walk through jungle from Long Beach (as a bonus you’ll pass Windmill Point along the way). Once there, you may feel as though you’ve stumbled up on the lost Garden of Eden – Malaysian-style.

Beach-Hopping in Besar

Swimming and sunning

Besar’s main beach stretches along the west coast of the island to the southern tip, interrupted by several rocky headlands – you can walk around them on short trails, or take a water taxi. The white sand here is almost as lovely as Long Beach on Kecil. Of special note is Teluk Keke, a lovely stretch of sand that ends near some huge boulders. It’s a peaceful photogenic spot, with some decent snorkelling offshore.

As a general rule the sand, swimming and snorkelling improve as you head north. A smaller, prettier beach taken up by Perhentian Island Resort is accessible via a footbridge on the northern end of Main Beach. It’s well worth the walk.

The big island’s ‘southern bite’, the circular bay of Teluk Dalam has a white-sand beach and accommodation in all budget ranges. There are good snorkelling spots on the bay’s western edge and a few simple beachfront restaurants. It’s easier to take a water taxi than to walk here.

Coral Bay | R.M. Nunes/shutterstock ©

ISLAND & BEACH HOPPING

While there are some trails around the islands, the easiest way to travel is by boat. Travelling the straight shot between Kecil’s Perhentian Village to Main Beach on Kesar costs RM10. Travelling between other parts of the islands can cost anywhere from RM15 to RM40, while a jaunt from one beach to another on the same island usually costs RM10 to RM20 on Kecil and slightly more on Kesar. There’s a minimum requirement of two passengers (so double the rate if you’re a solo passenger). Prices double after sunset. You’ll find water taxi service on all the main beaches, though if you’re heading to a less-travelled spot like Rawa Island, be sure to arrange a pickup time.

Kuala Terengganu

STRIKING ARCHITECTURE | CHINATOWN EXPLORING | REGIONAL CUISINE

The eponymous capital of Terengganu occupies a strategic perch overlooking the South China Sea and is flanked by the fertile estuary of Sungai Terengganu. The city is a microcosm of Malaysia’s economic history: fishing village strikes oil and gas offshore, bringing rapid growth. In just a few decades this once sleepy town saw big changes. Land reclamation and development of the waterfront has seen the creation of attractive parks and parades plus a modern harbour that has one of Asia’s biggest drawbridges.

Despite the rapid modernisation Kuala Terengganu retains plenty of charm. Here you’ll find one of eastern Peninsular Malaysia’s prettiest and most interesting Chinatowns, and old kampung-style stilt-houses can still be found just across the river. There’s also a thriving cottage weaving industry, seafood-heavy local cuisine and good transport links. All of these make it well worth spending a day or two in Kuala Terengganu in between trips out to the islands and inland to the jungles.

SIGHTS

1  Chinatown Gate

2  Duyong Marina

3  Ho Ann Kiong

4  Jambatan Angkat

5  Payang Memory Lane

6  Pulau Warisan

7  Riverfront

8  Tauke Wee Seng Hee Cultural Lane

9  Teck Soon Heritage House

10  Turtle Alley

11  Warisan Bridge

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

12  Ping Anchorage

EATING

13  Kafeteria Duyong Cafe

14  Kee Nguyen Heritage

DRINKING

15  Vinum Exchange

SHOPPING

16  Central Market

TRANSPORT

17  Terminal Bas MPKT Kuala Terengganu

GETTING AROUND

Sultan Mahmud Airport is 11km north of the city centre, and has regular flight services to/from both of Kuala Lumpur’s airports. On the eastern edge of the centre, the Terminal Bas MPKT Kuala Terengganu has regional and long-distance express buses. Taxis to any point in town cost a minimum of RM10. A taxi to the airport costs around RM40. You might also spot bicycle rickshaws; look for them around the Central Market. Prices are highly negotiable.

TOP TIP

Terengganu is a great place for foodies. Apart from the Central Market and food trucks near the drawbridge, Chinatown is loaded with temptations. Across the Warisan Bridge, rows of food stalls set up in the evening near the river on Pulau Warisan.

Crystal Mosque | IZZ HAZEL/shutterstock ©

Riverside Adventures

Waterfront strolls and boat tours

Kuala Terengganu’s riverfront makes a scenic spot for a promenade, and it’s a good place to enjoy snacks procured from the nearby Central Market. There are fine views from the river banks, but for a more immersive experience, hop on one of the tour boats that make a 50-minute circuit giving close-up views of the castle-like Jambatan Angkat bridge, the Duyong Marina and the Crystal Mosque, a glittering expanse of bronze-tinted domes and minarets best seen from the river. Boats depart every two hours from a dock over the arched bridge around 200m west of the Central Market.

EATING IN KUALA TERENGGANU

Vinum Exchange $$ Cafe, bar and restaurant, Vinum Exchange has a stylish interior with a good mix of western, Malay and Chinese fare.

Food Truck Drawbridge $ Across the bridge, dozens of food trucks offer a bountiful nightly spread of Malay and pan-Asian fare.

Kafeteria Duyong Cafe $$ Serves Kuala Terengganu’s best Thai fare, and the open-air setting is perfect for a leisurely meal.

Kee Nguyen Heritage $ Next to Payang Memory Ln, this friendly spot pours refreshing Vietnamese coffee. Try it with coconut milk.

EXPLORING CHINATOWN’S ART & ALLEYS

The city’s best place for an atmospheric stroll, Kampung Cina (Chinatown) is dotted with heritage buildings and hidden alleys full of intriguing street art, and there are plenty of tempting cafes and noodle shops along the way. Start off at the 1 Central Market, which anchors the northern edge of Chinatown. A short walk from the bustling stalls, you’ll find 2 Payang Memory Lane, an alley shaded with colourful umbrellas and lined with murals commemorating local Chinese community leaders and famous Malays. A few buildings down, you’ll pass 3 Tauke Wee Seng Hee Cultural Lane, which beckons you in with colourful street art. There’s also a bright red phone box, a display of old signboards from former Chinatown businesses and a wall painted with Chinese calligraphy – poems from the Han era dynasty. Continue along to reach 4 Teck Soon Heritage House. The handsomely painted shophouse originally belonged to the Teck Soon trading company. Further along, you’ll pass one of Chinatown’s most attractive temples, 5 Ho Ann Kiong. The riot of red and gold architecture and decor dates back to 1796, but has been rebuilt after fires over the years. Be sure to visit the ‘wishing tree’ behind the temple that is slowly engulfing an old building, and admire the wonderful stone carvings, both inside and outside the temple. From the temple, you’ll soon have a fine vantage point of the 6 Chinatown Gate, a grand monument topped with two gilded dragons. It’s worth stopping back in the evening, when you can see their glowing red eyes, and the illuminated globe held between them. After passing through the gate, head down 7 Turtle Alley, which pays homage to Kuala Terengganu’s endangered turtles with shimmering mosaics on the walls and walkway.

Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu | Aznan/shutterstock ©

Admiring Traditional Art & Architecture

See the Malaysia of yesteryear

Located around 6km west of the city centre, the Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu is a great place to take a deep dive into history. The highlight is the collection of traditional houses that front the museum’s spacious grounds. Inside, exhibits feature woodcarvings, textiles and one-of-a-kind works like the Jawi – traditional Malay text – inscription that dates the arrival of Islam to the nation.

Browsing Batiks & Planning Tours

Kuala Terengganu’s top agency

An elegant wooden facade fronts the entry to Ping Anchorage, which is equal parts craft shop, cafe and tour agency. They offer a wide array of tours around Terengganu, including day trips to Tasik Kenyir and Terrapuri Heritage Village in Penarik.

WHY I LOVE KUALA TERENGGANU

Regis St Louis, writer

Kuala Terengganu has these extraordinary architectural landmarks – like the soaring Jambatan Angkat (tower bridge) – that let you know you’ve arrived in a place unlike any other in Malaysia. There’s always the sense of discovery when exploring town. I love stumbling across hidden lanes emblazoned with street art or marvelling at the way the Crystal Mosque seems to glow in the afternoon light while viewing it from the river. Kuala Terengganu’s Chinatown is another alluring feature, with so many exquisite buildings to photograph (though some are in a sad state of neglect), and the atmospheric cafes, buzzing noodle joints and elegant dining rooms make for some rewarding dining along the way.

Beyond Kuala Terengganu

Coastal adventures: fishing villages, river trips and tropical islands set with picturesque beaches and lush, forested interiors

After taking in the sights and sounds of Terengganu’s capital city, head out for the small seaside villages to the north and south. These sleepy settlements are the gateway to a range of enchanting islands where you can explore nature’s beauty both above and below the waterline.

A short hop to the south, the fishing port of Marang gives easy access to the picturesque resort island of Kapas. Similarly named Merang is another key hub, with boats connecting you to coral-fringed Redang, one of the region’s most beautiful islands. Further north in Penarik, you can enjoy a bit of beach time coupled with riverside activities – including a boat trip to see synchronous fireflies lighting up the night.

GETTING AROUND

Local buses from Kuala Terengganu’s main bus station leave regularly to towns north and south. Travel time is about 90 minutes to Merang (north) and 30 minutes to Marang (south).

Boats from the Marang jetty make the 30-minute trip to Pulau Kapas several times a day. Many visitors to Pulau Padang and Pula Lang Tengah arrive on packages that include boat transfer from Merang. If coming independently, ferries run four times a day.

Pulau RedangTIME FROM KUALA TERENGGANU: 2 HRS

Lazing on Long Beach

Crystal-clear waters and idyllic beaches are the chief draws to one of the largest islands off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. You’ll find a wide range of seaside resorts on the island, where you can relax on the sands (or by the pool) and enjoy alfresco meals of fresh seafood. Most of the smaller resorts are built on a beautiful stretch of white-sand beach known as Pasir Panjang (Long Beach), on the east coast of the island. Taaras Beach is in the north of the island, near a village with local restaurants.

Snorkelling a majestic marine park

Apart from unwinding on beach, Redang is justly famed for its snorkelling and diving, and there are some 20 different sites of varying ability levels. The island lies within a protected marine park that’s part of the famed coral triangle, an area of rich biodiversity of undersea life. And, since many of the resorts here have their own dive centres, it’s easy to plan a day’s outing to more remote locations.

You can see colourful fish and the occasional blacktop shark off the middle of Long Beach, while south of there the long rocky cape of Tanjung Mak Cantik is another fine snorkelling spot with the chance to see Jenkins’ whiprays.

For even more variety, book a boat trip. East of Redang, Pulau Lima is the go-to spot for hard and soft corals, caves and grottoes and abundant marine life. This is particularly true on the north side of the island, with its diverse array of pelagics, including tuna, groupers, barracuda and black-tip reef sharks. There’s also the remote possibility of seeing whale sharks – the odds are highest in September when whale sharks are migrating through the area.

Taaras Beach | Eyes_in_the_Sky/shutterstock ©

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO REDANG

If you don’t want to make the trip by taxi to Merang, you take a boat straight to Redang from downtown Kuala Terengganu. These boats take longer (90 minutes) and there are fewer services, but it can sometimes be a more convenient option, particularly if you’re staying near the waterfront. Boats are operated by SFS (Sejahtera Ferry Service) and depart from Shahbandar Jetty, located about 1km northeast of Chinatown. They leave at 9am, 10.30am and 3pm, and return from Redang at 7am, 11am and 1pm. Whichever way they come, visitors must pay a small marine park entrance fee upon arrival.

Sea turtle conservation

Redang Island is a key nesting site for green sea turtles. At the small SEATRU lab located in the Taaras Beach & Spa Resort, visitors can learn all about the life cycle of this endangered creature, which covers nesting and hatching, as well as the many threats the turtles face. Opened in 2018, the lab is the first of its kind in Malaysia. Research assistants or the program’s marine biologist are sometimes on hand to answer questions.

SEATRU, incidentally, stands for ‘Sea Turtle Research Unit’ and is affiliated with the Universiti Malaysia Terengganu. If you are around during the hatching season (typically June to August), you can even witness hatchlings being released into the sea.

If you’d like to get more involved, SEATRU also accepts volunteers to take part in sea turtle conservation for eight-day commitments at its home base in Chagar Hutang, a well-established and protected nesting site in the north of the island. Get more info here: seatru.umt.edu.my.

Pulau Kapas | Izz Hazel/shutterstock ©

TRADITIONAL TERENGGANU DISHES

Bubu Lambut

Porridge cooked with paku (young fern) shoots. Can be served with sweet potatoes, dry prawns and myriad other toppings.

Nasi Dagang

White rice steamed in coconut milk and served with fish curry, shallots, lemongrass, pickled cucumber and carrots.

Sata

Fish cake made by mixing raw fish with grated coconut, vegetables and spices, wrapping in a banana leaf and grilling.

Keropok Lekkor

Fish-based Terengganu staple snack of fish paste and sago flour shaped into a sausage shape and deep-fried.

Nekbat

Often served at Ramadan, this pillowy dessert is made of rice flour and eggs, cooked in a mould then soaked in sugary water.

Pulau Lang Tengah TIME FROM KUALA TERENGGANU: 2 HRS

Getting off the beaten track

Tiny, idyllic Pulau Lang Tengah lies roughly halfway between Pulau Redang and Pulau Perhentian off the northeast coast of Peninsular Malaysia. With only a handful of resorts to choose from, this patch of paradise is much quieter and less developed than its better-known neighbouring islands. The diving and snorkelling are excellent here, with numerous pristine sites and a healthy fish and turtle population. There is much less physical damage to coral here than is evident at the more well-touristed islands. This lesser-known gem also features beautiful white-sand beaches, particularly on its western shore, crystal-clear waters and a lush, pristine jungle.

Similar to nearby Pulau Redang, almost everyone who comes here is on a package deal that includes boat transport, water activities and meals. Check the internet for discounted packages.

Pulau KapasTIME FROM KUALA TERENGGANU: 1 HR

Speedy island escape

Just 15 minutes by speedboat from the mainland, Pulau Kapas is the most accessible of the east coast resort islands and is the perfect place to chill out for a few days. Try to visit during the week, as this small island with beautiful beaches can become overrun with day trippers on holidays and long weekends. In the unlikely event that even Kapas seems too large, tiny Pulau Gemia (home to a single resort) lies just 800m off the north coast. Although there are a couple of midrange options, Pulau Kapas enjoys a budget-traveller vibe and has some of the cheapest island resorts in Malaysia with back-to-basics dorms and campgrounds. Most resorts can arrange snorkelling and diving trips.

Kapas is a snorkelling paradise, with the best coral to be found off the less accessible beaches on the northern end of the island and around tiny Pulau Gemia. The most impressive sites tend to be more remote and best reached on a boat trip. North of Gemia, a sunken WWII Japanese landing craft, now carpeted in coral, is a popular dive site.

PenarikTIME FROM KUALA TERENGGANU: 1 HR

An evening of firefly magic

With its windswept beach and population of fishers and farmers, the village of Penarik is a peaceful spot to experience a bit of coastal Malaysian culture. Just offshore, the islands of Perhentian, Lang Tengah and Redang appear tantalisingly close. But for something truly magical, stick around until the sun goes down and charter a boat to take you down the Penarik river for a journey through the Penarik Firefly Sanctuary. On certain nights, the darker the better, you’ll be treated to a most unusual sight: thousands of fireflies blinking in near-perfect synchronisation. This synchronised flashing pattern is unique to the area, and entomologists suspect it is associated with mating behaviour. The nighttime boat trip through the ghostly and ethereal mangrove forest is an unforgettable experience. Book an excursion ahead through Terrapuri Heritage Village.

Architectural time travels

It’s worth taking a tour of the Terrapuri Heritage Village’s manicured grounds, or better yet spending the night. Meaning ‘Land of Palaces’, Terrapuri is equal parts architectural heritage museum and resort. It features 29 classically furnished antique houses painstakingly restored and is laid out to resemble a 17th-century palace. The land on which Terrapuri sits is equally regal, flanked by the South China Sea (with stunning views of Pulau Perhentian, Lang Tengah and other islands) on one side, and the Setiu Wetland mangrove river on the other.

TERENGGANU THROUGH THE YEARS

Humans have been in the region for millennia. In fact, Malaysia’s oldest human skeleton was found in Terengganu. Discovered in a cavern near Lake Kenyir back in 2009, the remains were dubbed Bewah Man, though archaeologists later determined the bones in fact likely belonged to a teenage girl. A replica resides in the Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu. Terengganu was also one of the first regions in Malaysia to see development thanks to its position as a trading hub on ancient Chinese seafaring routes, and was the first Malay region to adopt Islam. The 14th-century Terengganu Inscription stone (on display in the same museum) contains writing in both Arabic and the language of Jawi.

MarangTIME FROM KUALA TERENGGANU: 30 MINS

Waterfront views and markets

Marang is a sizeable fishing village on the mouth of the Sungai Marang. As the departure point for ferries to Pulau Kapas, most people passing through spend little time exploring the town. Although it’s a little overdeveloped around the highway, down by the harbour the charms are more evident. Hundreds of colourful fishing boats bob in the clear waters or perch on the mudbanks if the tide is out. There is a colourful daily market behind the jetty, and a night market that also happens here on Sunday nights.

Houseboat, Tasik Kenyir | Shafawi Hamzah/shutterstock ©

WHEN TO VISIT FOR BOATING & FISHING

The lake’s water level varies considerably, peaking at the end of the rainy season in March or April and gradually decreasing until the start of the rainy season in November. When the water is high, the tops of submerged trees poke through the surface. When low, the lake is a series of canals through partially denuded jungle hills. The high water is far more beautiful, so it’s best to visit from March through June.

Fishing, by contrast, is generally best during the rainy season, from November through March. Some 300 species of fish inhabit the lake, including catfish, giant snakehead, Malaysian mahseer and jungle perch. Fishing permits are available at the park entrance.

Tasik Kenyir TIME FROM KUALA TERENGGANU: 1 HR

Touring lake, river and rainforest

The construction of Kenyir Dam in 1985 flooded some 2600 sq km of jungle, creating Southeast Asia’s largest artificial lake. Today Tasik Kenyir (Lake Kenyir) and its 340 islands constitute one of Terengganu’s most popular inland tourism destinations. Most people come here for boat tours, which take you on a short circuit past waterfalls and caves. Among these, a journey up Sungai Petuang, at the extreme northern end of the lake, is a highlight of a Kenyir visit. When the water level is high, it’s possible to travel several kilometres upriver into beautiful virgin jungle.

There are a number of less enticing attractions in the area – a children’s water park, and special islands dedicated to contrived displays of orchids and butterflies – all of which somewhat diminishes the natural beauty of the area.

Factor in poor public transport links and the fact that some attractions are only available to groups, and the area is best visited by independent travellers on a tour from Kuala Terengganu.

Despite the area’s increasing development, boating on the lake is still enjoyable, but it’s best to avoid weekends and public holidays when the serenity can often be ambushed. If you have a car, the main access point is the jetty at Pengkalan Gawi on the lake’s northern shore.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Kota Bharu

Min House Camp $ Located 8km southeast of the centre, this forested, riverside place has simple, tidy rooms and offers many activities, including kayaking.

Pasir Belanda $$ Stay in a traditional Malay-style chalet in a lush village-like setting some 4km from the centre of Kota Bharu.

Perdana Kota Bharu $$ You’ll find bold splashes of colour in this elegant business hotel with 272 rooms and ample amenities.

Grand Riverview Hotel $$ Spacious rooms with sweeping river views and access to a small pool in a well-located, full-service high-rise.

Dabong

Rose House Dabong $ A travellers’ favourite, the simple but charming Rose House Dabong is just a short stroll from the train station. Rose can also whip up delicious meals.

Dusun Dabong $ In a newer building 700m from the train station the four well-maintained rooms have hot water and private bathrooms, and meals are available.

The Perhentian Islands

Barat Perhentian $$ Modern resort at Main Beach’s northern end on Besar has lovely wooden chalets with verandahs. There’s good snorkelling close by.

Ombak Dive Resort $$ Ombak provides modern digs in small Bali-inspired rooms on Kecil’s Coral Bay. Good-value diving and snorkelling packages.

Coral View Island Resort $$ On Besar’s Main Beach, Coral View has options for all budgets, from fan-cooled bungalows to more lavish sea-view villas.

Abdul’s Chalets $$ The Besar stalwart has small bungalows with either garden or sea views. The best value is booking a room only (rather than packages).

Alunan Resort $$$ On Kecil’s remote southern coast, sleek designer pavilions cascade down a rocky, forested hillside to a compact cove. Also offers numerous excursions.

Mimpi Perhentian $$$ This three-storey resort on Kecil’s Long Beach has stylish rooms, a lift, a seawater swimming pool and a dive centre.

Perhentian Island Resort $$$ This semi-luxury option overlooks Besar’s best beach. There’s a huddle of attractive bungalows and plenty of activities (including tennis courts).

Kuala Terengganu

KT Chinatown Lodge $ Well-maintained rooms (the cheapest lack windows) in the heart of Chinatown run by Lorenz, an excellent source of information on the city.

Awi’s Yellow House $ A vision of Terengganu from yesteryear, Awi’s features rustic, wooden stilt-houses built over the tidal Sungai Terengganu.

Hotel Grand Continental $$ In a high-rise near the centre, the Grand Continental has spacious, comfortable rooms, some with harbour views.

Kampung Cina Hotel $$ Great Chinatown location and tidy minimalist rooms make the Kampung Cina a pleasant option.

Suite 18 Boutique Hotel $$ While not exactly boutique, Suite 18 has a certain style, with polished concrete and exposed bricks. There’s also a small courtyard.

Uptown Eco Hotel $$ Once past the garish pink exterior, you’ll find attractive rooms and a helpful owner, and it’s a short walk to Chinatown and the waterfront.

Pulau Kapas

Captain’s Longhouse $ Enjoy art-covered walls, dorm beds bedecked in colourful batik blankets and mosquito nets, and a front porch with hammocks.

Kapas Turtle Valley Beach Resort $$ Attractive bungalows above a white-sand beach that’s perfect for swimming and snorkelling. There’s an excellent on-site restaurant.

Penarik

Bayu Beach Penarek $$ Right on the beach, this place has simple but well-maintained bungalows, and swings and loungers for waterside relaxing.

Terrapuri Heritage Village $$$ Spend the night in an exquisite wooden Malay-style villa near the beach at this one-of-a-kind resort.

Sabah

YOUR PERFECT INTRODUCTION TO BORNEO

Borneo’s celebrated wildlife, postcard vistas, epicurean delights and cultural treasures are easily unpacked and experienced in Sabah, the island’s most compact and accessible state.

Kota Belud, with Mt Kinabalu | Sylvia sooyon/shutterstock ©

Crowning the world’s third largest island, Sabah occupies a relatively small portion of Borneo, yet what a punch it packs. Tropical waters teeming with marine biodiversity enfold coral-fringed islands; Mt Kinabalu soars 4095m into the clouds inspiring hikers; while lush tropical rainforests pulse with life: birdwing butterflies, graceful gibbons, beautiful birds and enigmatic orangutans.

Nature abounds here. Around 50% of Sabah remains forested, and getting from one of Sabah’s natural highlights to the next is easy and straightforward. With a little planning and help from one of Sabah’s excellent tour companies, even the most remote rainforest or tropical island getaway can be reached.

nelzajamal/shutterstock ©

Ethnically, Sabah is home to more than 30 indigenous groups, the largest of which is the Kadazan-Dusan. Prior to joining the Malaysian federation in 1963, the state was known as North Borneo, a former British protectorate, and after WWII, a Crown Colony. Hence English is commonly spoken here, making it traveller friendly.

Today, the ‘Land Below the Wind’ (so named because it lies south of the Southeast Asian typhoon zone) is a progressive, conservation-conscious corner of Borneo keen to welcome travellers. Whether it’s exploring the seafood and vibrancy of the night markets of Kota Kinabalu (often shortened to KK), watching baby orangutans at Sepilok, learning to dive on the Semporna Archipelago or surfing on the northern Tip of Borneo, Sabah will leave an everlasting impression.

THE MAIN AREAS

KOTA KINABALU

Cosmopolitan and culinary capital of Sabah.

KINABALU PARK

Majestic Mt Kinabalu beckons hikers.

SANDAKAN & SEPILOK

Orangutan, sun bear and turtle conservation.

SUNGAI KINABATANGAN

Wildlife cruising on Sabah’s longest river.

SEMPORNA & THE ARCHIPELAGO

Island-hopping, diving and snorkelling.

Find Your Way

Sabah is well serviced with intrastate transport. There are good air, road and sea options, and even a small rail service. It’s a compact state sharing land borders with Sarawak and Kalimantan (Indonesia).

Plan Your Time

Several of Sabah’s highlights can be experienced on day trips from Kota Kinabalu. Others require more time, expense and effort, such as the remote parks that abound with wildlife and the less-visited offshore islands.

Clownfish, Tunku Abdul Rahman Park | Josephine Julian/Shutterstock ©

One Week in Sabah

• Make the most of your time in Kota Kinabalu by soaking up the vibrant arts, exploring the hawker markets and, of course, feasting on the flavours of KK’s cosmopolitan dining scene.

• Sunseekers, divers and snorkellers can catch a fast ferry to the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park to spend a day or two enjoying the coral, warm waters and resort food.

• Those with a taste for adventure and boundless energy will head off to Kinabalu Park for a memorable, two- or three-day return hike to the summit. Those without a head for heights can enjoy the trails, hot springs and excellent bird-watching in the park’s lower reaches.

A Fortnight to Travel Around

• Ease into Sabah by spending a few days in and around Kota Kinabalu. Check out the underwater attractions surrounding the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, visit a cultural village or museum, and explore the street-food dining scenes of KK’s night markets.

• After a couple of days head to Kinabalu Park for hiking, cool mountain air and the chance to summit majestic Mt Kinabalu.

• For wildlife encounters, fly to Sandakan and Sepilok for the orangutan, sun bear, proboscis monkey and turtle sanctuaries. Continue to the Sungai Kinabatangan to spend a few days cruising the river observing the wildlife.

If You Have More Time

• From Kota Kinabalu, head north to explore the beaches and islands at the Tip of Borneo. South of Kota Kinabalu discover the WWII history of Pulau Labuan, ride the scenic Beaufort–Tenom train or go whitewater rafting in the Crocker Range.

• Check out Sandakan for colonial and WWII sights, Sepilok for orangutans, and add on a trip to Turtle Islands Park. After cruising the Sungai Kinabatangan, consider the lesser-visited wildlife reserves of Danum Valley, Deramakot, Tabin and Tawau Hills.

• Finally head to Semporna for island-hopping and diving at Mabul or Sipadan.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

April to August is the busiest tourist season. Diving visibility is best in July and August. January to April are the drier months and October and November the wettest.

FEBRUARY

Chinese New Year is celebrated with dragon dances and festivities in late January or early February. Book ahead for accommodation.

Yusnizam Yusof/shutterstock ©

APRIL

Bajau Laut sea nomads come to the mainland at Semporna for Regatta Lepa, with decorated boats and music.

Alen thien/shutterstock ©

MAY

Sabah Festival celebrates with art and culture programs. Across Sabah Pesta Kaamatan celebrates the rice harvest.

Yusnizam Yusof/shutterstock ©

JUNE

This busy time of year includes Kudat District’s Pesta Kelapa (Coconut Festival) and KK’s Sabah Dragon Boat Race.

Affendy Soeto/shutterstock ©

JULY

Ideal time for diving Sipadan and islands of the Semporna Archipelago. In Kuala Penyu Pesta Rumbia celebrates the sago plant.

Public_P/shutterstock ©

SEPTEMBER

Pulau Labuan celebrates the Borneo Arts Festival with live music and cultural events over three days.

Nokuro/shutterstock ©

OCTOBER

In Kota Belud, villagers gather for the Tamu Besar (Big Market) food and culture festival. Diwali is celebrated by Hindus.

Augustine Bin Jumat/shutterstock ©

Kota Kinabalu

BUSTLING MARKETS | CORAL-FRINGED ISLANDS | LIVELY NIGHTLIFE

A tangle of fishing boats jostles at the harbourfront unloading the catch, speedboats and ferries scurry across the harbour to the tantalising islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, while overhead jets shuttle tourists to and fro in quick succession. Welcome to Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu (KK). This may be a city on the move, with cranes protruding from building sites, but it also retains an old-world charm. Bustling street markets and open-air dining venues are as popular as ever in modern KK. Alongside swanky shopping malls and expensive condos these noisy, colourful bazaars are crammed with a cornucopia of fresh seafood and pungent tropical harvests.

Kota Kinabalu arose from the ashes of Jesselton, the original port city for North Borneo. It was razed by the Allies, not once but twice, to eject the occupying Japanese forces. Renamed Kota Kinabalu (after the mountain), the modern capital of Sabah is a vibrant, multicultural gateway to all of Sabah’s highlights.

SIGHTS

1  Islamic Civilisation Museum

2  Sabah State Museum

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

3  Amazing Borneo

4  Borneo Adventure

5  Downbelow Marine & Wildlife Adventures

6  North Borneo Cruises

SLEEPING

7  Toojou

EATING

8  Mother India

9  Restoran Sri Melaka

10  Sri Latha Curry House

11  Welcome Seafood Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12  Horizons Sky Bar & Cigar Lounge

13  KK Waterfront

14  Rooftop Bar & Grill

See 13  Shamrock Irish Bar

15  Stylo Rooftop Bar & Terrace

SHOPPING

16  Sabah Museum Gift Shop

INFORMATION

17  Sabah Parks

SIGHTS

1  Atkinson Clock Tower

2  Signal Hill Observatory

3  Vanishing Wall

4  Wisma Sabah

5  WoW (Wonders of Wilderness)

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

6  Adventure Alternative Borneo

7  Riverbug/Traverse Tours

8  Riverbug/Traverse Tours

SLEEPING

9  Hyatt Centric

10  Hyatt Regency Kota Kinabalu

11  Jesselton Cabin

12  Jesselton Hotel

13  Signel Poshtel

14  The Atkinson Place

EATING

15  Biru Biru

16  Chilli Vanilla

17  El Centro

18  Grazie Ristorante

19  Ho Ciak Kopitiam

20  Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee

21  Kedai Kopi Yee Fung

22  Mamasita

23  Todak Waterfront

24  Tong Hing Supermarket

25  Yu Kee Bah Kut Teh

26  Yuit Cheong

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

27  Cozy Bistro & Bar

28  Flips

29  October Coffee House

See 9  On23 Skybar

30  Rooftop @ Le Meridien

31  Sky Blu Bar

32  The Nook

SHOPPING

33  Borneo Shop

34  Handicraft Market

35  Night Market

36  Suria Sabah

37  The Art Attic

INFORMATION

38  Sabah Tourism Board

GETTING AROUND

Central KK, between the Jesselton Ferry Terminal and Wawasan Plaza, is walkable. The offshore islands are reached by speedboat from Jesselton Ferry Terminal, while attractions outside the city are reached via minibuses, taxis or rideshare vehicles. The last are the most convenient, clean and economic option. Download the Grab ride-hailing app to your phone – you still pay the driver in cash, but the amount is calculated before the trip and there are so many drivers around you shouldn’t have to wait more than a few minutes.

Markets & Street Food KK-Style

Hawker cuisine, barbecue and night markets

KK’s dining scene is arguably the best in Borneo and some of the most memorable food experiences can be had at the city’s markets and hawker stalls.

Down by the waterfront, on Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, the Night Market fires up from around 5pm when colourful fish, molluscs and crustaceans are laid out on beds of ice and the spruiking for customers begins. It’s authentic, bustling, aromatic and an unmissable immersion into the local food culture. At the southern end you will find stalls selling everything from belacan (fermented shrimp paste) and tropical fruits to snake beans. Billowing, eye-watering smoke heralds the spot where chicken is sliced and diced and slapped on the barbecue. Surrounding the mosque is the main hawker centre and smoky Filipino BBQ where you can dine inexpensively at plastic tables. Further north, past the large Pasar Besar (Central Market), Todak Waterfront is a smaller but no less alluring seafood hawker market where a surreptitious cold beer can usually be arranged.

On Friday and Saturday nights the southern end of Jln Gaya transforms into the Api Api Night Food Market. Here you’ll find local vendors grilling satay sticks and whipping up durian shakes and tropical fruit drinks until midnight.

Foods to try include hinava, a traditional Kadazan-Dusun dish of raw fish pickled with fresh lime juice, chilli padi (bird’s-eye chilli), sliced shallots and grated ginger; and roti canai, a flaky flatbread fried on a skillet that’s served with a curry from dawn till dusk at any Indian Muslim kedai kopi (coffee shop) around town.

TOP TIP

The compact city centre squeezes between the waterfront and low, forested hills to the east. Most of the restaurants, markets, accommodation and tourist services are located here.

TOURIST INFORMATION & ONWARD TRAVEL

KK is a hub to explore the rest of Sabah and these helpful venues can help with your onward journey.

Housed in the historic post office building on Jln Gaya, one of KK’s few remaining colonial buildings, Sabah Tourism Board (sabahtourism.com) has helpful staff and information and brochures on all of Sabah.

Sabah boasts numerous national parks – Kinabalu, Crocker Range and Tawau Hills on land, as well as six marine parks. Sabah Parks (sabahparks.org.my) has a centrally located office where you can learn about them, and is open Monday to Friday.

Don’t discount hotels and backpacker hostels, which often have informative travel desks or noticeboards and can help organise onward travel.

Island-Hopping in Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

Tour Sabah’s marine park islands

Although easily visible from the KK waterfront and just a short boat ride away from Jesselton Ferry Terminal, the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park (TARP) seem to inhabit a different world.

The five forested humps of Manukan, Gaya, Sapi, Mamutik and Sulug islands and the marine park surrounding them, make up Sabah’s most visited state park. On weekends they can get quite crowded and there’s a feeling of being shunted around to a schedule – if you really want to relax, stay overnight at one of the resorts and avoid the weekend.

Boat transport is well organised but is not a typical public ferry service as each boat is assigned to a particular company. When you arrive at Jesselton Ferry Terminal book a one-to-four-island trip at the nearest ticket window, then book whatever optional activities you fancy, from snorkelling to parasailing. You’ll be assigned to a tour company and expected to stick with them, life jacket and all, for the day.

With an area of about 15 sq km and rising to 300m, Pulau Gaya is by far the largest of KK’s offshore islands. Gaya is also the best island for hiking, with trails cutting through virtually undisturbed coastal dipterocarp forest. However, most visitors are here for scuba diving from the three dive resorts on the east side of the island. The bays on the eastern end are filled with overcrowded kampung air (water villages).

Pulau Sapi is separated from Gaya’s Padang Point by a 200m channel – the zipline between the two islands was closed at the time of writing. Sapi attracts loads of day-trippers to its pretty, patrolled beach. The turquoise waters between Pulau Sapi and Pulau Gaya are teeming with life and make for good snorkelling.

The second-largest island, Pulau Manukan, is roughly 20 hectares and covered in dense vegetation. It is popular with divers and snorkellers for its rich coral and abundant marine life. There’s a good beach with coral reefs off the southern and eastern shores. Squads of day-trippers march off the jetty here armed with receipts for various watersports bookings. There’s a resort and two beachfront restaurants here, as well as a small network of inland nature trails leading to viewpoints.

Pulau Mamutik is the smallest of the islands, a mere 300m end to end. A sandy beach runs up and down the east coast, there’s decent snorkelling and a short walking trail that ends on a cliff overlooking the water. Pulau Mamutik is less often frequented by day-tripper crowds, so if you’re here during the week, it will be mercifully quiet.

EATING IN: CHEAP EATS

Kedai Kopi Yee Fung $ Widely regarded as the best place in KK for authentic laksa; always busy, especially lunchtime.

Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee $ Below Ang’s Hotel; flaming woks of Cantonese: sweet-and-sour shrimp, oyster-sauce chicken wings etc.

Yu Kee Bah Kut Teh $ Specialises in bak kut teh pork noodle soup and Cantonese-style pork in many forms.

Sri Latha Curry House $ Particularly good for its veggie thalis and Malay-Indian curries spread on banana leaves.

Mari Mari Cultural Village | Eva Mont/shutterstock ©

A Quieter Getaway

Calmer dives and marine wildlife

The 8-hectare Pulau Sulug is the furthest from KK and the least visited of the islands. It only has one beach but the water is calm, clear and great for snorkelling. If you want a quiet getaway, Sulug is a decent choice, but you’ll have to charter a boat as the regular day-trip boats don’t stop here. Coming here with a diving company is ideal, as Sulug’s two main diving sites attract exciting pelagic life, such as turtles and barracuda.

ATKINSON CLOCK TOWER

The modest timepiece at the foot of Signal Hill is one of only two structures that survived the relentless Allied bombing of Jesselton in 1945 – the other being the post office that now houses the information centre. The clock tower is a square-based 15.7m-high wooden structure that was completed in 1905 and is dedicated to the first British district officer of the town, Francis George Atkinson, who died of malaria aged 28 in 1902. Originally it had an outlook to the sea and was once even used by sailors as a navigational aid, but decades of land reclamation and high-rise construction have left it well behind.

A Taste of Tradition

Indigenous cultural villages

You don’t have to go deep into the Sabah jungle to get an appreciation for indigenous culture and traditional village lifestyles of old, thanks to some made-for-tourists cultural villages.

Mari Mari Cultural Village is the best of these villages for its attention to detail and entertaining three-hour tours showcasing various traditional homes of Sabahan ethnic communities – the Bajau, Lundayeh, Murut, Rungus and Dusun – all built by the communities themselves. There are demonstrations on fire-starting, the Murut bamboo dance, rice wine, Tenom coffee and honey production and an insight into the mystical belief systems of each of these groups. A music and dance recital and buffet lunch rounds off the visit. The village is a 20- to 30-minute drive east of KK and transport to/from your hotel can be arranged when booking. Don’t be tempted to take a one-way taxi or Grab here as you might not get one back.

Monsopiad Cultural Village, 16km south of KK, is named after a legendary warrior and headhunter. The House of Skulls supposedly contains the ancient crania of Monsopiad’s unfortunate enemies, as well as artefacts illustrating native rituals from the time when the bobolian (priest) was the most important figure in the community. There are entertaining morning and afternoon tours.

Koisaan Cultural Village is the closest cultural village to KK, about 9km southeast, but the least organised as far as guided tours go. You can turn up here without prebooking and wander through the collection of 11 ethnic houses representing different regions of western Sabah. A display of indigenous dance and music also features.

EATING IN KOTA KINABALU: OUR PICKS

Restoran Sri Melaka $ Unassuming place regarded as one of KK’s best Nonya (Peranakan) restaurants, also with Malay dishes.

Yuit Cheong $ KK’s oldest kopitiam, renowned for its toast with kaya (coconut jam). At noon the satay stall kicks off by the entrance.

Welcome Seafood $$ Crowded tables and long queues show the popularity of this spread-out, super-sized seafood place.

Café on Fifty5 $ Inside the wonderful Tong Hing Supermarket with tasty breakfasts, bakery items and light meals.

History, Faith & Architecture

Museums and mosques

Sabah State Museum provides an excellent introduction to Sabah’s indigenous cultures, with displays focusing on the traditional attire, festivals, customs and crafts of the Dusun, Murut, Rungus, Bajau and other Sabah peoples, as well as a captivating display on the headhunting traditions of the Murut and other tribes. Upstairs are the centuries-old Chinese ceramics retrieved from the Jade Dragon wreck, c 1300 CE, in 2013. You’ll also find stone tools from the Mansuli Valley dating back 235,000 years. The adjoining outdoor Heritage Village has traditional tribal dwellings, including Kadazan bamboo houses. The Islamic Civilisation Museum, just north of the State Museum and with entry using the same ticket, has a collection of historical objects from all over the Islamic world. Closed Friday and Sunday.

One of KK’s more photogenic sights, the City Mosque (Masjid Bandaraya) is also known as the ‘floating mosque’ owing to its surrounding lagoon in which the mosque and minarets are perfectly reflected. Photographers should get here in the early morning or around sunset, when it’s illuminated. It’s about 5km east of Jesselton Ferry Terminal.

MAKAN: KK-STYLE

Cosmopolitan KK’s essential makan (food) experiences include the following.

Filipino Barbecue

The gathering of smoky stalls at the KK Night Market is the best place in town for char-grilled fresh seafood at unbeatable prices.

Hinava

Traditional Kadazan-Dusun dish of raw fish pickled with fresh lime juice, chilli padi, sliced shallots and grated ginger.

Roti Canai

Flat bread fried on a skillet and served with a curry from dawn till dusk at any Indian Muslim kedai kopi around town.

Sayur Manis

This bright-green jungle fern can be found at any Chinese restaurant. Best served fried with garlic, or with fermented shrimp paste.

Mangroves, Mud & Birds

Kota Kinabalu wetlands

With a 1.3km boardwalk through mangrove wetlands, a visitor centre and rich birdlife, the Kota Kinabalu Wetland Ramsar Site is an interesting nature park adjacent to the city centre.

Depending on the season and the tides, you may see scuttling fiddler and mangrove crabs, mudskippers, skinks, turtles, water monitors, vibrant kingfishers and a stunning variety of migratory birds. Don’t forget to slap on the insect repellent. The park is closed Mondays.

A visit here can easily be combined with the nearby City Mosque. To get here, hop on a taxi or Grab, or take a bus to Likas Sq from the bus stations in front of City Hall or Wawasan Plaza. Although it should be an easy walk along Jln Bukit Bendera from Signal Hill, the lack of sidewalks and speeding traffic make it a tricky exercise.

EATING IN KOTA KINABALU: INTERNATIONAL FOOD

Grazie Ristorante $$ Homemade pasta and bread, excellent pizzas, Italian coffee and vino, plus prepared meals.

Mother India $$ True Mughal-style, North Indian cuisine at its finest and most aromatic. Just beyond the main waterfront area.

Chilli Vanilla $$ Cosy fusion cafe serving Hungarian, European and Middle Eastern delights. Wine by the glass or bottle. Closed Monday.

Mamasita $$ Mexican staples, cold cerveza, attentive staff and occasional live music. Colourful murals extend to the outside seating.

Sabah State Railway train | Uwe Aranas/shutterstock ©

BEST SHOPPING IN KOTA KINABALU

Handicraft Market

Next to the Night Market, cheap souvenirs of textiles, jewellery and bamboo goods.

Borneo Shop

Specialises in Borneo wildlife, history and flora books, also postcards and souvenirs; in Wisma Merdeka mall.

The Art Attic

One-off jewellery, ceramics, handicrafts and textiles, mostly by local artists; on Jln Dewan.

Sabah Museum Gift Shop

Across from the Sabah State Museum and selling books on all things Borneo – field guides to wildlife, WWII history, indigenous culture etc.

Suria Sabah

Designer brands, a multiplex cinema, air-con restaurants – a temple to consumerism and hard not to like.

Riding the Borneo Rails

Sabah’s state railway

You don’t have to be a train enthusiast to enjoy a day riding the rails on Borneo’s only operating train line, completed in 1906. The Sabah State Railway is a 134km single track running from Tanjung Aru railway station (south of KK) to Tenom via Beaufort. The real highlight is the local train through the Crocker Range between Beaufort and Tenom).

Take the 7.45am commuter train from Tanjung Aru to Beaufort (two hours) then change for the rickety 1pm local train to Tenom (two to three hours), with open windows and hard seats, passing through the wonderfully scenic Padas Gorge. Get a window seat to watch the rushing whitewater of the Padas River and lush countryside. The train stops at several local stations; at Halogilat (in either direction) passengers get off to change trains in order to continue on the single line.

You can also take road transport from KK to Beaufort and just ride the local train, departing at 7.30am and 1pm. If you start early and catch the 7.30am train you could spend a couple of hours in Tenom then catch the 1pm afternoon train back to Beaufort.

Though closed at the time of research, do check to see if the North Borneo Railway, complete with vintage steam locomotive and tiffin lunch, is back up and running. It usually runs twice weekly between Tanjung Aru and Papar.

DRINKING IN KOTA KINABALU: BEST BARS

El Centro Casual vibe, retro tunes and an international menu but featuring Mexican. Inexpensive beer, wine and great cocktails.

Biru Biru Cocktails, snacks, burgers and Malaysian dishes featuring fragrant biru (blue) rice. Garden and indoor seating.

Tamu Bar Funky bar with live music and lively crowds of travellers atop the brightly painted Toojou Hotel, a flashpackers hostel.

Shamrock Irish Bar Waterfront terrace, classic rock, Guinness on tap. A wide range of eateries share the waterfront here.

Sunsets & Viewpoints

Savour a South China Sea sunset

With its west-facing waterfront, a much-celebrated evening experience in KK is to watch the sun sink into the South China Sea, cocktail and camera in hand.

Fashionable spots to gather include the Todak Waterfront (near the marlin sculpture) or over a beer on the boardwalk of the KK Waterfront.

Prime sunset viewing for families is from the beach at Tanjung Aru, about 5km south of the centre, where food stalls set up under tents and locals picnic on the sand. Just north of here is the Shangri-La resort where the Sunset Bar draws an appreciative crowd.

For something a bit swankier and more elevated, KK has numerous rooftop bars atop high-rise hotels with unparalleled views out to sea – some also have views back to Mt Kinabalu on a clear evening.

The most inexpensive viewpoint in town is from the platform on Signal Hill, reached via steps at the north end of Jln Dewan and best done in the morning.

BEST ROOFTOP VIEWS

Stylo Rooftop Bar & Terrace

Marriott Hotel rooftop bar with stunning sunset views of the islands, open from 4pm.

On23 Skybar

Rooftop pool, terrace and stylish bar all boasting a South China Sea panorama. Hyatt Centric Hotel.

Rooftop @ Le Meridien

Superb views across the streets and waterfront to the sea; open from 5pm.

Rooftop Bar & Grill

Fine dining and poolside bar with city views. Hilton Hotel.

Horizons Sky Bar & Cigar Lounge

Uninterrupted views from the roof of the Pacific Sutera Hotel.

Sky Blu Bar

Low-key rooftop bar with water views, pool and live music. Grandis Hotel.

The Artists Trail

A tour of KK street art

KK has a street-art scene that can be both subtle and surprising. A walk around the waterfront area will reveal eye-catching examples of community street art popping up on walls, staircases and bin shelters – some of it commissioned, some not.

The best place to start on the unofficial Art Trail is the facade of derelict warehouses opposite Jesselton Mall (Jln Haji Saman), dubbed the Vanishing Wall and created by 10 artists, exploring themes of Sabah wildlife and conservation (common themes in Sabah art).

Walk south past the Hyatt Centric Hotel to KK’s best-known public art installation, now called WoW (Wonders of Wilderness) but still known to many as Pillars of Sabah. The site was formerly a government Lands & Survey building that burned down leaving only a shell with 31 concrete pillars. It remained a derelict and seedy part of town for many years until an inspired community art project in 2018, involving 30 local artists, transformed it into a local attraction. New versions were created in 2019 and 2020 with the pillars again painted by a rotating group of artists. In 2021 the site was taken over by Sabah Art Gallery as the SAG Outdoor Art Space.

The large mural covering the wall of the Wisma Sabah building incorporates more Sabah wildlife; the art was commissioned by phone company Hotlink and created by Kenji Chai in 2022. On the waterfront look for the murals along the wall in front of the Hyatt Regency with scenes depicting Mt Kinabalu, a map of Sabah and more wildlife.

Other standout murals around town include the wall of Ang’s Hotel, the side of Toojou hostel and various bits of artwork along Jln Dewan. Look out for painted concrete bin shelters around town – download the Bin Art Trail map from Sabah Tourism’s website.

DRINKING IN KOTA KINABALU: BEST COFFEE SPOTS

The Nook Quality beans, tranquil covered garden and 8am start for breakfast make this a local favourite on Jln Dewan.

October Coffee House Restful cafe serving wide range of snacks and cold beverages as well as coffee. On Lg Dewan.

Ho Ciak Kopitiam Busy corner bakery on Jln Gaya for an early-morning cheese bun or lunch bao (dumplings )with local coffee.

Yuit Cheong KK’s oldest coffee shop is renowned for its toast with kaya and lunchtime satay stall. On Jln Pantai.

SABAH’S SPECIALITY LOCAL NOODLES

Tuaran Mee

One of Sabah’s signature dishes: springy egg noodles, thin-sliced pork, egg rolls (chun kien) and char sui sauce.

Mee Sup Kota Belud

Thin yellow noodles in a spicy chicken broth with slices of chicken and garnished with fried shallots and a squeeze of calamansi lime.

Beaufort Mee

Stir-fried yellow noodles in a thick sauce with slices of pork and green veggies.

Tenom Mee

From the hills of Tenom; fried but soft Hakka noodles with sliced pork or beef and vegetables.

Sang Nyuk Mee

Originating in Tawau, ‘Sabah pork noodle’ is pork slices in a thin oily soup.

KK’s Premier Gallery

Basket loads of art

One of Borneo’s premier art spaces, the Sabah Art Gallery is housed in a striking octagonal building that looks like an upturned teepee but is designed to represent a traditional Sabahan basket, and is a certified ‘green’ building for its environmentally friendly design.

Inside, a spiral staircase links three floors of fine art and changing exhibitions by local and international artists. The spaces are beautifully lit and the art curation thoughtful so it’s worth spending an hour or two here. Closed Mondays.

Nightlife KK style

Drink, dine and party

Kota Kinabalu is the only place in Sabah with an appreciable nightlife, so enjoy it while you’re here!

KK’s main after-five scene is concentrated in a small area known as the KK Waterfront, measuring about 100m from north to south. Wander into the car-park area off Jln Tun Fuad Stephen and you’ll see a line-up of bars and restaurants side by side with names including Beer Garden, Shamrock, Cock & Bull, Loft, Mynt and Kohinoor. Walk through the doors (from 5pm) and out to the rear deck and you’ll find they all merge into one long waterfront boardwalk bar with sunset views, beer towers and competing live bands. They all serve food, with some specialising in Thai, Indian, Japanese, Italian, Korean and Irish. Bookending this strip of bars are two barn-sized nightclubs, Illusion and Tipsy Waterfront, both open until 1am (or later) and featuring local and visiting DJs.

Along Jln Dewan is a more sophisticated nightlife scene where locals and travellers gather in low-key bars and coffee shops. Biru Biru has live music on midweek nights, Mamasita picks up the pace on Friday night, while El Centro and Flips are popular for their cocktail creations and occasional entertainment. Cozy Bistro & Bar is an inviting wine bar.

KK’s top-end hotels regularly have live music, often in rooftop bars. Local bars, including karaoke joints, are scattered throughout the city centre.

For a different view of the city, North Borneo Cruises offers sunset and dinner cruises, departing from Sutera Harbour. Cruises include live music, a buffet meal, a bar and lots of flashing lights.

CENTRAL KK ON FOOT

This easy walk around KK’s centre will take two to three hours including a few stops to rehydrate. Start at the 1 Atkinson Clock Tower (1905), one of the few colonial structures to survive the Allied bombing in 1945. Head northeast and along Jln Dewan, home to some of KK’s coolest cafes and bars. At 2 Biru Biru restaurant check out the plaques commemorating this as ‘Australia Place’, where Australian liberation forces camped in 1945. At the north end of the street is the sign for the 3 Signal Hill trail; make the climb up rickety steps for views over the city.

Descend the same way and cross the busy Jln KK Bypass to 4 Jln Gaya, one of KK’s major ‘eat streets’, lined with Chinese shophouses, local eateries and budget hotels. If it’s Sunday, the Gaya St Market takes over several blocks while on Friday and Saturday nights it becomes the Api Api Night Food Market.

Walk north and visit the 5 Sabah Tourist Office in the historic Post Office. Go west along Jln Kota Kinabalu Lama 6 to reach the 6 WoW art installation, aka Pillars of Sabah. Opposite is 7 Suria Sabah, one of the largest malls in KK. Step in for an air-con pause.

Heading west then south along Jln Tun Fuad Stephens you’re on the KK waterfront. Past the kitschy ‘I Love KK’ and marlin (todak) sculptures are the seafood eateries of the 8 Todak Waterfront, the 9 Central Market (Pasar Besar) and the smoky 10 Night Food Market.

Finish at the rooftop bar at 11 Le Meridien Hotel for panoramic sunset drinks or head a short distance further south to the 12 KK Waterfront entertainment district.

Beyond Kota Kinabalu

There’s plenty to explore along the coast north and south of KK: fishing villages, longhouses, near-deserted beaches, islands and, detouring inland, rugged mountains.

Heading northeast of KK along the coast, towards the Tip of Borneo, you’ll encounter bustling market towns, rice paddies, low-key beach resorts and island getaways. Heading southwest along the coast you’ll pass near-deserted beaches around Tempurung and Kuala Penyu, the departure point for Pulau Tiga. Further south is Menumbok, the ferry terminal to Pulau Labuan.

Busy Beaufort, the main town in the south, is a train terminus and a pit-stop before entering Sarawak or Brunei. Inland from Beaufort, the rugged Crocker Range offers some of Sabah’s toughest trekking, best whitewater rafting and a scenic train trip to the coffee-clad hills of Tenom. This region is generally off the traveller radar, which is certainly part of its appeal.

TuaranTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 45 MINS

Beaches, markets and architecture

A likely stop heading northeast out of KK is Tuaran, around 35km from the city via Hwy 3, and just north of the turnoff to/from Kinabalu Park. There are a couple of upmarket resorts on the beaches west of town, while the centre of town hosts a classic market (tamu) on Sunday, with fresh produce from the sea and nearby villages. Worth a visit is the colourful nine-storey Ling Sang Pagoda, guarded by stone lions and vividly painted deities. Tuaran is known for the eponymous noodle dish, Tuaran mee; the best place to try it is Tuaran Mee Restoran.

About 7km southeast of Tuaran is the quirky Rumah Terbalik (Upside-Down House), where everything, including the car in the garage, is upside down. Look out for souvenir shops along this stretch, where villagers sell locally made handicrafts.

GETTING AROUND

Hiring a car in KK is the most flexible way to explore north and south of KK along the west coast. Minivans and shared taxis regularly shuttle between KK and Kota Belud, Kudat, Beaufort, Keningau and Tenom. Tenom and Beaufort are also connected to Tanjung Aru, near KK, via Borneo’s only train line. Frequent fast ferries as well as slow car ferries connect with Pulau Labuan.

Kota BeludTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 1 HR 45 MINS

Festivals, markets and offshore diving

Kota Belud is another bustling market town best known for its Sunday market and annual Tamu Besar, a blockbuster of a market. A 30-minute detour west to the coast brings you to Mengkabar Bay and the excellent Dragon Pearl Beach Resort, with budget beach huts, camping and longhouse accommodation. And from here, you can take a boat (there’s no road access) to Bigfin Beach Resort, secluded away in Mengkabar Bay. Bigfin offers PADI courses and uncrowded diving among whale sharks, islands and uncharted reefs.

Along Jln Sangkir, off the highway just north of Kota Belud, are scenic viewpoints across the fields and rice paddies – on a clear day there are spectacular views of Mt Kinabalu’s western face, especially at sunset.

Fuk Tek Kung Temple | Nasrullah Arifuddin/shutterstock ©

TAMU BESAR

Once a year in October, usually on the last weekend, Kota Belud hosts the famous Tamu Besar (literally ‘big market’), the biggest market in Sabah. The highlight is a procession of fully caparisoned Bajau horsemen from the nearby villages, decked out, along with their steeds, in vivid, multicoloured satin ‘armour’ and embroidered barding. Buffalo racing and the crowning of the Sarempak and Seremsip beauty queens are part of the festivities. This is still a regional market, so it naturally includes lots of food stalls and trading. Accommodation will be tight for the weekend but it can be done as a long day trip from KK.

KudatTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 3-4 HRS 40 MINS

History, islands and culture

With sun-faded buildings, sleepy harbour and ramshackle fishing boats on the bay, Kudat exudes a drowsy tropical charm. In its heyday, back in the late 19th century, Kudat used to be an important trading post and capital of British North Borneo.

Some of the streets have Chinese names, harking back to the British administration’s request to the Chinese to come and grow coconuts and rice. Many of their descendants are still here today, along with the indigenous Rungus. Kudat town’s impressive Fuk Tek Kung Temple by the main square is worth a look, or you might visit the busy and odoriferous Tamu Kudat, a market selling tropical fruits, dried fish and edible seaweed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

EATING & DRINKING IN KUDAT & THE TIP

Secret Place Café $ Family-run, open-air joint on Bavang Jamal Beach with seafood BBQ, satay sticks and pizza.

Tommy’s Place $ Open-sided restaurant with wi-fi, fried fish, noodles, burgers, pizzas, coffee and beer. Relaxing any time of the day.

Six55 $$ Poolside bistro serving Malaysian and international fare from simple noodles to extravagant seafood platters.

Planet Kudat Café & Bar $$ Fresh seafood and veg straight from the wok to accompany a cold beer and delightful harbour outlook.

Pantai Kelambu | Alen thien/shutterstock ©

CONTRIBUTING TO THE TIP

Errond Lee Roby, a student and environmentalist who works at Secret Place Cafe in Pantai Bavang Jamal, on efforts to preserve the Tip’s beauty.

Keeping the Tip Tidy

Pollution drifts onto our beaches with every tide. Because most litter is local, my goal is to set up an environmental awareness program for local children and change the throwaway habits.

Secret Place

Our family-run beachside restaurant and camping spot welcomes travellers from all over. In addition to enjoying the peaceful beach they can experience contemporary Rungus culture and help the locals clean the environment.

Turtle Conservation

Hawksbill and green turtles come to the Tip’s sandy beaches to lay their eggs. Visitors can help the Kudat Turtle Conservation Society (ktcsborneo.com) collect eggs, release hatchlings and clean beaches.

The Tip of BorneoTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 4 HRS

Beaches, monuments and surfing

Watching the sun set on near-deserted beaches, surfing, snorkelling, coastal hikes and experiencing a taste of Rungus village life is what life’s all about at the Tip.

Sabah’s northernmost headland, at the end of a wide bay 27km from Kudat, is known as Tanjung Sipang Mengayu, or the Tip of Borneo. Magellan reputedly landed here for 42 days during his 16th-century round-the-world voyage, and today this windswept viewpoint with plunging cliffs is marked by a large globe monument and steps leading down to the rocks where the South China Sea and Sulu Sea converge. While the monument is something of a pilgrimage (and selfie) site, you’ll be just as captivated by the surreal sunsets, long walks on deserted beaches, Malaysia’s best surfing, paddleboarding and lazy hours spent watching Rungus kids kicking a football between bamboo-and-thatch houses. Although travellers have been coming here for years, you’ll still often feel as if you’ve just stumbled on a well-kept secret.

A string of gorgeous beaches run south from the Tip: Pantai Kalampunian and Pantai Kosuhui make up a 3km stretch of relatively clean, squeaky-soft sand, with a sprinkling of accommodation, diving and surf shops, and restaurants. At the beautiful Pantai Bavang Jamal you’ll find Secret Place Cafe and a campground. Turtles come to lay eggs on the beaches here and there’s a turtle hatchery at the southern end of Bavang Jamal. Further south again is the sublime Pantai Kelambu.

South of here are two Rungus villages, Loro Kecil and Longom, each with their own beach.

A little way inland from the beach, Tampat Do Aman is a rustic jungle resort where boardwalks lead to simple Rungus longhouse accommodation and ecofriendly sulaps (bamboo huts), and guests gather over breakfast. There’s a small Rungus museum and cookery courses can be arranged with advance booking. Owner Howard is a mine of information and can take you to local villages, turtle releases from the hatchery or on a jungle survival course.

Surf’s up

Surfing is taking off on the west coast of Sabah, thanks to swells produced by the southwest and northeast monsoons – November to February (the northeast monsoon) being the best time to catch a glassy wave. The top spot is the northern Tip of Borneo – when the conditions are right, there’s very clean surf with glassy lefts and rights and no bad-tempered, overcrowded line-up. For surf lessons on gentle beach breaks and board rental, check out Tommy’s Place or Blue Fin Surf & Dive. You can also rent stand-up paddleboards and kitesurfing gear.

Island getaways

The scattering of gem-like islands lying off Sabah’s northwest coast appeals mainly to divers. The 3km-long Pulau Mantanani Besar and Pulau Mantanani Kecil are two little flecks of land fringed by bleach-blond sand and ringed by colourful coral, about 25km off the coast (40km northwest of Kota Belud). The Bajau islanders have clashed with the government in opposition to resorts buying up land for development but have also recently engaged with tourism through homestays.

Dive resorts and homestays can arrange boat transfer from the jetty north of Kota Belud (30 minutes to one hour) and meals are usually included with accommodation and dive packages.

If you want to fall off the map, head to Pulau Banggi, 40km northeast of Kudat town and home to the Banggi people, known locally for their unusual tribal tree houses and unique non-Bornean dialect. Kudat Express is a public ferry running twice daily from Kudat to Banggi (one hour). North Borneo Biostation runs recommended dive trips here.

TENOM COFFEE

Much of the coffee you drink while in Sabah comes from the hills around Tenom, the state’s coffee-growing capital.

Best known of the coffee factories is Fatt Choi, founded by local coffee legend Mr Foong Choon Seng in 1986. Tours should be arranged in advance, and you can also stay at the company’s hilltop cabins.

With its mountain vistas, Tenom is a pretty town bisected by the Padas River and is the terminus for the scenic Beaufort–Tenom train. This region has a fearsome warrior and headhunting past; Murut chief Ontoros Antanom was famously involved in uprisings against the British in 1915. Murut Cultural Centre, 13km north of Tenom, explains everything.

BeaufortTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 1½ HRS

Rail terminus and southwest hub

A suitable pit stop for those travelling between Sabah and Sarawak, Beaufort is the gateway to whitewater rapids on the Sungai Padas and to the monkey-filled Klias and Garama areas. This sleepy town is also the departure point for the wonderfully scenic, if ramshackle, railway to Sabah’s coffee capital of Tenom.

The Sungai Padas divides Beaufort into two sections: the aptly named Old Town with its weathered structures, and New Town, a collection of modern shophouses on flood-phobic stilts. During WWII Beaufort was the site of a major skirmish between the Japanese and Australians.

In Jln Tugu there’s a small monument to Private Thomas Leslie Starcevich, an Australian WWII veteran. In 1945 Starcevich single-handedly overwhelmed a Japanese machine-gun position, for which he received the Victoria Cross, the British military’s highest decoration. The stone is at the bottom of a small embankment and is marked by an arch.

BEAUFORT–TENOM TRAIN

The scenic train ride between Beaufort and Tenom is a highlight of this region and can be done in either direction.

Whitewater adventures

Sabah’s best and most advanced rafting is on the Sungai Padas, which can be arranged with Riverbug in KK. The trip starts early in KK with a two-hour drive to Beaufort followed by a two-hour scenic train ride to Pangi village, from where you ride eight separate grade III and IV rapids over 9km of the muddy-brown Padas to its base in Rayoh village.

FLOWER POWER

The rafflesia is a parasitic plant that grows hidden within the stems of jungle vines until it bursts into bloom, at which point it eerily resembles the monster plant from Little Shop of Horrors. It emits a stench of rotting flesh, mimicking a newly dead animal, to attract carrion flies that help with pollination. The large bulbous flowers can be up to 1m in diameter. The 12-or-so species of rafflesia here are found only in Borneo and Sumatra; several species are unique to Sabah, but as they only bloom for a few days, it’s hard to predict when you’ll be able to see one. By day four they tend to be blackening and wilting.

Kuala Penyu & TempurungTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 2 HRS

Bucolic beachside retreats

Heading south from KK, golden-sand beaches scallop the coast with a sprinkling of beach resorts, but the most attractive part of this coast is around Kuala Penyu and Tempurung, around 100km or two hours by car south. Peaceful back roads meander past good-value, low-key beach retreats fronting one of Sabah’s loveliest beaches and the South China Sea.

Buses heading from KK to Menumbok can drop you at the turnoff to Kuala Penyu, but this area is best explored with your own vehicle. Alternatively ask your accommodation for a pick-up from Kuala Penyu or Beaufort.

The Crocker RangeTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 2–3 HRS

Wild flowers and remote trails

The Crocker Range Park and the Interior Division are home to some of Sabah’s wildest and most isolated trekking routes. It’s essential to hire a guide through a reputable adventure tour company to venture out here.

The range forms a formidable barrier to the interior and dominates the eastern skyline from Kota Kinabalu down to Sipitang. Once across the Crocker Range, you descend into the green valley of the Sungai Pegalan, which runs from the bustling market hub of Keningau in the south to Ranau in the north. The heart of the Pegalan Valley is Tambunan – Sabah’s rice bowl – a good place to delve into traditional Murut culture.

Near the top of the Crocker Range, next to the main highway, 20km north of Tambunan, the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve is devoted to the world’s largest flower. The Rafflesia Rangers can guide you into the jungle reserve for the day.

Mt Kinabalu’s tougher sibling

About 20km southeast of Tambunan is the dramatic Mt Trusmadi, Sabah’s second-highest peak (2642m). This is a much tougher physical challenge than Mt Kinabalu and more difficult to arrange. Independent trekkers must be well equipped and bring their own provisions and a guide. The easiest way to do it is through TYK Adventure Tours.

Mt Trusmadi | Stefhanie Penny Jaikul/shutterstock ©

A refreshing cascade

Around 26km northeast of Tambunan, the 17m-high Mahua Waterfall plunges into a deep pool below, perfect for a refreshing dip. There’s even a spartan hostel on site if you wish to stay the night, and a basic restaurant.

Salt Trail adventures

Part of a century-old trading route used by the Murut, the Salt Trail is 34km long and is Sabah’s most demanding trek, complete with chest-high river crossings and navigation through primary forest. A guide is absolutely essential. KK-based operators offering this trek include TYK Adventure Tours and Downbelow Adventures. Treks tend to be five days and four nights, going from Tikolod to Inobong via the indigenous villages of Kionop, Buayan and Terian. Expect steep ascents and descents and very basic accommodation.

COMMUNITY ECOTOURISM

Orou Sapulot is an innovative community ecotourism project that takes travellers deep into Murut country, visiting caves, waterfalls, villages and ascending the Batu Punggul pinnacle. This is a jungle-topped limestone outcrop, riddled with caves and sacred to the local Murut who traditionally believe it to be a longhouse that gradually transformed into stone. Not far from the Kalimantan border, it’s about as remote as it gets in Sabah. The Orou Sapulot project employs locals and encourages families to conserve their lands for ecotourism rather than selling out to oil-palm companies, thus providing a sustainable income for the community. In KK Sticky Rice Travel and Adventure Alternative Borneo are Orou Sapulot’s preferred booking agencies.

Pulau Tiga National ParkTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 2½ HRS

The original Survivor island

About 100km south of KK is an island national park that attracts visitors looking to bring to life a popular reality TV series. Pulau Tiga (‘three islands’) gained worldwide TV fame when the first season of the reality series Survivor – both the American and UK version – was filmed here in 2001.

The ‘tribal council’ was destroyed in a storm and unless you’re staying at the luxurious Borneo Eagle Resort, which provides transport for guests, there are no regular boats so getting here is a challenge.

Still, if you come on a day trip from KK it’s a great place for relaxing on the gorgeous beach, hiking in the forest and taking a cooling dip in mud pits at the centre of the island. Check with Amazing Borneo about day trips from KK, including transport and lunch.

Pulau Kalampunian Damit is famous for sea snakes (up to 150 per day) that come ashore to mate, hence the island’s nickname, Snake Island.

The original Pulau Tiga Resort, built for the Survivor production crew, is closed for renovation but Sabah Parks still operates a basic campsite nearby. Contact them to see if any boats are operating from Kuala Penyu.

Peace Park | Marci Paravia/shutterstock ©

GETTING TO PULAU LABUAN

There are daily direct flights from KK, KL and Miri (Sarawak) to Pulau Labuan. In addition, there should be a daily ferry service (three hours) to/from KK’s Jesselton Ferry Terminal. However, at the time of writing this service was temporarily suspended. A reliable option is the express bus from KK to Menumbok (three hours) then one of the ‘speedboat’ ferries (30 minutes, 10 daily) to Labuan Ferry Terminal. Much slower, roll-on roll-off (RORO) vehicle ferries depart three times daily. Between Brunei and Labuan there are two daily passenger ferries and one RORO vehicle ferry in either direction. There are also daily ferries to/from Lawas and Limbang in Sarawak.

Sungai KliasTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 2 HRS

Borneo river cruising

If you’re not heading to the Sungai Kinabatangan in eastern Sabah and instead looking for a day trip from KK for an authentic Bornean river experience, this is a good alternative.

Between Tempurung and Beaufort, about 100km south of KK where the tea-brown Sungai Klias passes under the A7 road, are a couple of river-cruise operators offering two-hour wildlife cruises in search of primates, crocodiles and fireflies, usually starting around 3pm.

It’s easiest to book these trips through an operator in KK such as Amazing Borneo, with transport and buffet dinner included.

EATING IN PULAU LABUAN

Restoran Sharifah $ Locals come for flaky roti, murtabak (stuffed roti) and noodle dishes. Just across from the ferry terminal.

Mawillah Yacht Club $$ Dine on the splendid deck overlooking the beach and mirror-like sea at this seafood specialist. Wine and beer available.

Tiara Seafood Restaurant $$ Pick your seafood and choose the cooking style. Chilli crab, grilled grouper or salt and pepper squid.

Victoria’s Brasserie $$$ For big buffets featuring international cuisine head to this fine restaurant at the Dorsett Grand Labuan Hotel.

Pulau LabuanTIME FROM KOTA KINABALU: 3¼ HRS 30 MINS

Duty-Free crossing to Brunei

Labuan is often visited as a stopping-off point on the way to Brunei or for duty-free shopping, but there’s history and adventure here that make it worth a closer look.

Bandar Labuan (Victoria) is the main town and the terminal for ferries linking Labuan to Sabah, Sarawak and Brunei. You can visit the immaculately kept WWII Memorial Cemetery, dedicated to the nearly 4000 Commonwealth servicemen, mostly Australian and British, who lost their lives in Borneo during WWII. A Peace Park on the west side of the island at Layang Layangan commemorates the place of Japanese surrender.

The free and modern Labuan Museum on Jln Dewan, a couple of blocks north of the ferry terminal, provides a good introduction to Labuan’s history and culture, from precolonial days through British and Japanese occupation, WWII and the establishment of Labuan as an independent federal territory.

If you have your own vehicle or charter a taxi it’s easy enough to explore the island on sealed roads, visiting the beaches of the northwest coast and sights such as the historic coal mine chimney and bird park.

Advanced wreck diving

Labuan is known for its wreck diving, with four major shipwrecks off the coast (two from WWII and two from the 1980s). The only local dive outfit operating here is based at Rusukan Besar Resort (rusukanbesarresort@gmail.com). Dives can also be arranged with KK dive operators.

Considering the dives are some way off the coast and are very much speciality dives you would need to organise this in advance and be prepared to spend at least one night on the island.

Only the ‘Cement Wreck’ is suitable for novice divers; the ‘Blue Water Wreck’ requires Advanced Open Water certification, and the ‘American’ and ‘Australian’ wrecks are recommended only for experienced divers with a wreck-diving course under their belt.

ALL ABOUT LABUAN

Just a short boat ride from Sabah’s southwest coast, Labuan is primarily known as a duty-free shopping port, financial centre and stepping stone to Brunei. It is not technically part of Sabah but is a federal territory of Malaysia and something of a tax haven. International travellers need to present a passport and clear immigration even if they’re just popping across from Menumbok for a cheap bottle of booze.

Labuan once belonged to Brunei until the sultan ceded it to the British in 1846 and it remained part of the empire for 115 years.

The Japanese held the island for three years during WWII; it was here the Japanese forces surrendered and the officers responsible for the death marches were tried.

Kinabalu Park

ICONIC MOUNTAIN | COOL CLIMATE | EPIC SUNRISE

Mt Kinabalu looms large, both physically, with its dramatic crown of wild granite spires, and in the psyche of Sabahans. It is easily Borneo’s highest mountain (4095m) and the highest point between the Himalayas and New Guinea. Local indigenous groups believe the mountain to be inhabited by the spirits of their ancestors; popular folklore suggests the name came from the Kadazan-Dusun word for ‘revered place of the dead’. Sacred or not, many Sabahans consider the ascent a rite of passage, while adventurous travellers from around the globe covet it as a bucket-list climb. While it is not a technical climb, it is also not an easy jaunt!

The 754-sq-km national park that surrounds the mountain was declared as Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 and attracts not only climbers but visitors drawn by the cooler climate, a network of less strenuous walks and inspiring views of the mountain.

SIGHTS

1  Botanical Garden

2  Kundasang War Memorial

SLEEPING

3  Ayana Holiday Resort

4  J Residence

5  Kundasang Guesthouse

6  Lilly’s Cottage

7  Mountain Valley Resort

EATING

8  BW Bus Restaurant

9  Liwagu Restaurant

INFORMATION

10  Sutera Sanctuary Lodges

GETTING AROUND

Express buses and minivans from KK bound for Kundasang and Ranau can drop you at the Kinabalu Park headquarters (two hours). You can also pick up a bus heading east from here. If your accommodation is along the highway, ask your driver to let you off there. If you want to explore the region in any depth you really need your own transport. Consider hiring a car in KK.

Kinabalu Park headquarters operates a minivan service to/from trailheads, as well as a daily service to Poring at noon, or you can charter a vehicle to Kundasang or places within the park.

Flora of Mt Kinabalu

The mountain’s unique, magical nature

Mt Kinabalu is a botanical paradise, designated a Centre of Plant Diversity and a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site. The altitudinal range of habitats supports a wide range of flora, and over half the species growing above 900m are unique to the area.

Among the more spectacular flowers are orchids (over 700 species), rhododendrons and the insectivorous nepenthes (pitcher plant). Around park headquarters, there’s lush dipterocarp rainforest. Creepers, ferns and orchids cling to the trunks and branches of forest giants, while fungi thrive on the forest floor. Between 900m and 1800m there are oaks, laurels and chestnuts, while higher up there’s dense rhododendron forest. On the windswept slopes above Panalaban (Laban Rata), vegetation is stunted, with sayat-sayat a common shrub. The mountain’s uppermost slopes are bare of obvious plant life.

Many of the plants found on Mt Kinabalu and in Kinabalu Park are cultivated in the Botanical Garden, just north of park headquarters, near the Liwagu restaurant. Guided tours of the garden depart at 9am, noon and 3pm.

Exploring the Foothills

Kundasang and mountain viewpoints

Kundasang is the closest town to Kinabalu Park headquarters, around 10km east via a winding mountain road, and 15km northwest of Ranau. It’s a popular getaway from KK for its cool climate, hiking trails and those epic Mt Kinabalu views. There are vantage points and hills around town that offer stunning views, and plenty of accommodation along the highway.

Next to the central market, Kundasang War Memorial commemorates the Australian and British prisoners who died on the infamous Sandakan Death Marches and at the Sandakan and Ranau POW camps, as well as Borneans who perished while assisting the prisoners. Three well-kept gardens individually represent the Australians, the British and the people of Borneo, while the colonnaded Contemplation Garden has marble plaques engraved with the names of the deceased. There’s a fine view of Mt Kinabalu from the far end.

There are several hikes to viewpoints in the area, the most popular being Sosodikan Hill (1465m). You can drive right up to the base then walk 400m up to the viewing platform for sensational views of Mt Kinabalu to the north and Kundasang below. A little further north in Mesilau is Maragang Hill (2232m), another spectacular close-up Kinabalu viewpoint. The hike from the registration point to the summit platform is just under 2km and can be done in an hour.

TOP TIP

Kinabalu Park headquarters (sabahparks.org.my/kinabalu-park) is 88km by road northeast of KK. The nearest town is Kundasang, which has plenty of accommodation. Good lodges and hotels can also be found just outside the park entrance and along the road between Nabalu and Kundasang.

TOP SIGHT

Mt Kinabalu

The ascent of Mt Kinabalu is popular because it doesn’t require mountaineering skills or special equipment and is considered climbable by anyone in reasonable physical condition. But the trek is tough, unforgiving and every step is uphill. You’ll be rewarded with magnificent views, exhilarating natural beauty and the achievement of scaling Malaysia’s and Borneo’s highest peak.

Paulharding00/shutterstock ©

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DON’T MISS

Low’s Peak

Summit sunrise

Liwagu Trail

Kiau View Trail

Via Ferrata

Walk the Torq

Botanical Garden

Hiking the Foot of the Mountain

Even if you’re not climbing Mt Kinabalu, it’s well worth spending a day or two exploring the trails around park headquarters. There are 10 marked trails and lookouts, though at any one time some will be closed for maintenance. Park transport can take you to some of the furthest walking trails such as Mountain View for a small fee.

The base trails interconnect with one another, so you can spend the day, or indeed days, walking at a leisurely pace through the beautiful forest, spotting interesting plants, plenty of birds and, if you’re lucky, the occasional mammal. Don’t be fooled though – this is still rainforest, some sections of trail can be steep and it’s often wet, muddy and slippery underfoot. When it rains, watch out for legions of leeches.

Some of the best walks include the Kiau View Trail (2.5km), which starts near the park headquarters and links up with the 600m Pandanus Trail. The longest is the Liwagu Trail (5.6km) following the Liwagu River right up to Timpohon Gate. Pick up a map and up-to-date list of closures from the Sabah Parks office and enquire about the daily guided walks and guided tours of the Botanical Garden.

Timpohon Trail | BorneoRimbawan/shutterstock ©

Preparing for the Climb

With obstacles including slippery stones, heavy humidity, frigid winds and fatigue, climbers will need to be in decent shape before venturing further up the mountain. Both Sabah Parks and Mountain Torq recommend at least two months of physical training in preparation and not to attempt the climb if you have a heart condition, obesity or joint issues such as arthritis. Age is no barrier if you’re fit. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a very real risk because of the rapid gain in altitude, and around 20% of climbers feel some discomfort.

Following the 2015 earthquake there is only one trail leading up the mountain – the Timpohon Trail (the trailhead is 5km from the entrance to Kinabalu National Park, usually reached by park shuttle). Kinabalu can be (and is) climbed year-round, but March to August (dry season) is considered optimum.

Going through a tour operator such as Amazing Borneo is more expensive but makes it easier to book and join a group if travelling solo. Accommodation must also be booked in advance, and you can do so online at suterasanctuarylodges.com.my or through Sabah Parks.

The most common schedule is a mandatory minimum two-day, one-night climb; recreational hikers are no longer allowed to attempt a one-day ascent and descent. Some climbers opt for a three-day climb by overnighting at Panalaban (Laban Rata; 3272m) on the way down.

CLIMBING COSTS

Guide fees, insurance and permits (RM400/200 adults/children) are mandatory and can be arranged at the Sabah Parks office or through a tour operator. Guide fees for the summit trek cost RM350 for a group of one to five people. A dorm bed and meals at Sutera lodges start at RM1500; cheaper digs are available at some Sabah Parks hostels.

TOP TIPS

• No special equipment is required to summit Kinabalu, though a head torch and gloves are essential for the predawn climb.

• Bring trail snacks and a water bottle, which can be refilled at unfiltered (but potable) tanks en route.

• Expect freezing temperatures near the summit, as well as strong winds and occasional rainstorms.

• Temperatures can drop to as low as 2ºC. Long hiking pants, a wind jacket and a woollen hat will serve you well.

• Sunscreen, insect repellent and strong, comfortable shoes are a must.

• Park staff can try to attach individual travellers to a group so that guide fees can be shared.

CLIMBING PERMITS

A climbing permit, insurance and guide are compulsory to climb Mt Kinabalu. If on an organised tour this will be arranged for you. If not, permits and guides must be arranged at the Sabah Parks (sabahparks.org.my) office at headquarters or at reservation. Only 150 permits are issued daily so you should book well in advance. Your guide will be assigned on the morning you begin your hike.

The First Day

Register at park headquarters at around 9am to pay your park fees, hook up with your guide and start the ascent (four to six hours) to Panalaban, where you’ll spend the night before the summit climb. On the following day you’ll start scrambling to the top at about 2am to reach the summit for a breathtaking sunrise over Borneo.

The climb officially starts at the Timpohon Gate (1866m) from where the trail leads up steep stairs through the dense forest and continues winding up and up. Signboards show your progress with a marker every 500m. There are also pondok (rest shelters) at regular intervals, with basic toilets and tanks of unfiltered (but potable) drinking water. The walking times below are conservative estimates.

There’s a charming waterfall, Carson’s Falls, beside the track shortly after the start, and the forest can be alive with birds and squirrels in the morning. Five pondok are spaced at intervals of 15 to 35 minutes between Timpohon Gate and Layang Layang. Near Pondok Lowii (2286m), the trail follows an open ridge giving great views over the valleys and up to the peaks. It’s about three hours from Timpohon Gate to the Layang Layang (2621m) rest stop then another 1¾ difficult hours to Pondok Paka (3053m), the seventh shelter on the trail. The final ascent of around one hour brings you to the overnight stop at Panalaban Base Camp (3272m), above the tree line and with inspiring views; with luck you’ll witness a magical sunset.

Mt Kinabalu summit | R.M. Nunes/shutterstock ©

Reaching the Summit

A 2am start begins with a one-hour climb on the Ranau Trail to the checkpoint at Sayat-Sayat hut (3668m) and the crossing of the sheer Panar Laban rock face. The final stretch to the summit of Low’s Peak (4095m) is the steepest and hardest part of the climb and will take between one and three hours depending on your stamina.

Many visitors to Borneo assume Mt Kinabalu is a volcano, but the mountain is actually a huge granite dome that rose from the depths below some nine million years ago. In geological terms Mt Kinabalu is still young. Little erosion has occurred on the exposed granite rock faces around the summit, though the effects of glaciers that used to cover much of the mountain can be detected by striations on the rock. There’s no longer a snowline and the glaciers have disappeared, but at times ice forms in the rock pools near the summit.

Most climbers leave the summit by 7.30am to reach Panalaban by noon. It’s another gruelling three to four hours’ descent to Timpohon Gate for the shuttle back to park headquarters.

Take the Hard Way Down

Not content to simply walk down from Kinabalu’s summit? The next challenge is the spectacular via ferrata (literally ‘iron road’ in Italian), an elaborate network of rungs, pallets and cable bridges that allows climbers to return to Panalaban along the mountain’s dramatic granite walls. Mountain Torq pioneered Asia’s first via ferrata system and, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, it’s the highest ‘iron road’ in the world.

As well as the main route, Mountain Torq offers a shorter, two- to three-hour loop route called Walk the Torq, designed to give nervous novices a taste of the high-altitude fun along the Panar Laban rock face.

The main via ferrata follows the Low’s Peak Circuit across the rock face from the summit before linking up with the Walk the Torq route. After ascending Kinabalu in the traditional fashion, participants gather for a briefing and are kitted out with climbing gear before using the network of rungs, suspension bridges, wire bridges and cables to return to Pendant Hut in Panalaban. The Low’s Peak Circuit (minimum age 17) is a four- to five-hour scramble down metres upon metres of sheer rock face starting at 3766m. The threadlike tightropes and swinging planks will test your limits without putting your safety in jeopardy. Your guide may encourage you to lean back for the photo shoots, with nothing but your safety belt and harness holding you back from the abyss.

LOW’S PEAK

Although it is commonly believed that local tribesmen climbed Mt Kinabalu many years earlier, it was Sir Hugh Low, the British colonial secretary on Pulau Labuan, who recorded the first official ascent in 1851. Low was a keen naturalist and visited Kinabalu three times before being transferred to the Malay Peninsula, where he had a successful career as a colonial administrator in Perak. Today Kinabalu’s tallest peak is named after him; thus Borneo’s highest point is ironically known as Low’s Peak.

Canopy Walkway | zaidi razak/shutterstock ©

WILDLIFE OF KINABALU PARK

Deer and monkeys are no longer common around park headquarters, but you can see squirrels, including the handsome Prevost’s squirrel and the mountain ground squirrel. Tree shrews can sometimes be seen raiding rubbish bins. Primates include orangutans, gibbons, and slow loris. The park is home to over half of all the bird species found in Borneo. Common birds are Bornean treepies, fantails, bulbuls, sunbirds and laughing thrushes, while birds seen only at higher altitudes are the Kinabalu friendly warbler, the mountain blackeye and the mountain blackbird. Other wildlife includes over 1000 species of moths and butterflies and many endemic reptiles.

Hot Springs & Canopy Walks

Post-climb revitalising soak

Out in the eastern extremity of the national park and a good one-hour drive (40km) from the park headquarters via Ranau, Poring Hot Springs is a popular weekend retreat for locals and tour groups. The springs were developed by the Japanese during WWII, utilising the superheated hot sulphur springs funnelled into a series of tiled baths.

The hot springs are in a well-maintained park, though the baths feel a little run-down and take forever to fill (twin taps mix the hot spring water with cold water). There’s also a cold-water rock pool and small swimming pool complex with water slides, as well as an accommodation complex run by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges.

The real highlight of the Poring Hot Springs complex is the Canopy Walkway, consisting of a series of walkways suspended from trees, up to 40m above the jungle floor, providing unique views of the surrounding forest. Get here early if you want to see birds or other wildlife. It takes around an hour to complete and last entry is at 3pm.

On the road to Poring you’ll notice signs for a number of private rafflesia gardens – if the flowers are in bloom you can stop for a look.

EATING AROUND MT KINABALU

Lilly’s Cottage Cafe $ Inexpensive cafe serving western breakfasts, burgers, Malay and local dishes and soft drinks.

Kloud $$ Licensed restaurant with sophisticated dishes including Malay and international cuisine. At Mountain Valley Resort.

Liwagu Restaurant $$ Pleasant licensed restaurant inside the park with a huge range of a la carte meals and a generous buffet.

BW Bus Restaurant $$ Buses converted into a restaurant with Western-style fast food beside the highway between Ranau and Kundasang.

Sandakan & Sepilok

ORANGUTAN REHABILITATION | SEA TURTLES | WWII REMEMBRANCE

Sabah’s second city and former capital, Sandakan, and nearby Sepilok, draw travellers in search of guaranteed wildlife encounters at world-renowned wildlife rehabilitation centres and the offshore Turtle Islands Park.

The harbour city was the colonial capital of British North Borneo until WWII when it was occupied by the Japanese army, and it was from here that the infamous Sandakan Death Marches began. Many visitors still come to contemplate this particularly severe episode. Allied bombing razed much of the city in 1945. Today Sandakan’s economy lies in the palm-oil industry, fishing and tourism; it’s still an important harbour and engaging city, with a few remaining traces of colonial history and some vibrant kampung (villages) clinging to the coast.

Sepilok is a special place for those concerned with rescuing Borneo’s special wildlife. Here orangutan and sun bear rehabilitation sanctuaries sit side by side, and there are superb forest walks and bird-watching at the Rainforest Discovery Centre.

SIGHTS

1  Agnes Keith House

2  Laluan Kreatif

3  St Michael’s & All Angels Church

4  Crystal Quest

SLEEPING

5  Hotel Elopura

6  Sandakan Backpackers Hostel

EATING

7  Ba Lin Roof Garde

8  Bistro 88

9  San Da Gen Kopitiam

10  Waterfront Seafood

SHOPPING

11  Sandakan Central Market

GETTING AROUND

Sandakan has several minibus terminals. For Sepilok, minibuses run every 15 minutes from opposite the Nak Hotel on Jln Pelabuhan Lama to the turnoff on the highway (Batu 14), from where you can walk or wait for a taxi/Grab. A direct shuttle to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre runs at 9am and 2pm, returning at noon and 4pm.

Sandakan sits on the coast at the eastern point of mainland Sabah, reached by road or air from KK or Tawau. Sepilok is about 25km west.

Remembering the Death Marches

Sandakan Memorial Park

Sandakan’s place in Borneo’s WWII history is a stark, sombre story of suffering. The Japanese army established a prisoner-of-war camp here and by September 1944, 1793 Australian and 641 British troops were interned.

In the beautiful Sibuga Forest Reserve, 13km north of Sandakan waterfront, serene Sandakan Memorial Park marks the site of the POW camp. A trail meanders around an ornamental pond to the poignant Commemorative Pavilion which tells the story of the camp and the death marches in interpretive panels recounting the horrors and heroism, survivor accounts, old photographs and a 3D model of the camp itself. Further along is the Memorial Obelisk; services are held here on Australia’s Anzac Day (25 April) and Sandakan Day (15 August).

To reach the park, take any Batu 8 (or higher-numbered) bus from the local bus station in Sandakan and ask to be let off. Taking a taxi from the city centre, you could negotiate waiting time; two Grab rides will work out cheaper.

TOP TIP

Grab operates around the Sandakan and Sepilok region. In Sepilok itself, drivers hang around near the entrance to the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre ready to take you to the Rainforest Discovery Centre, Labuk Bay, the airport or Sandakan.

Life Below the Wind

Sandakan’s colonial memories

American writer Agnes Keith lived in Sandakan from 1934 to 1952 with her British husband Harry, the Conservator of Forests in North Borneo. She gained recognition in the US when stories of her experiences in Borneo were published in the Atlantic Monthly. Her trilogy of Bornean memoirs starting with Land Below the Wind details colonial life, her experiences while interred in Japanese prison camps with her husband and son, and the post-WWII efforts to rebuild.

The Agnes Keith House is an atmospheric, immaculately restored two-storey colonial villa, now a museum, perched on a hill above central Sandakan. The Keiths lived in this house, named Newlands, from 1946 – the original home immortalised in Land Below the Wind was destroyed during the war. Photos of the family and of Sandakan in the 1930s, colonial furniture and indigenous artefacts contribute to a fascinating insight into colonial life in North Borneo.

Round off your colonial experience with high tea and scones at the adjacent English Tea House, an atmospheric stucco-pillared villa with wicker chairs, starched tablecloths and a croquet lawn in the gardens. Classics include fish and chips and shepherd’s pie. You can get here by Grab or via the 100 Steps (Tangga Seribu) to Jln Istana.

Another of the very few surviving pre-WWII buildings, is the pretty, stone St Michael’s & All Angels Church (1893), which sits as a relic of colonial times and a monument to Christian worship on a hillside high above Sandakan. Its construction reportedly involved prisoner labourers dragging huge slabs of local granite across the Bornean jungle. Notice its stunning stained-glass windows, donated by Australians to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the end of WWII.

EATING IN SANDAKAN: CHEAP EATS

Sandakan Central Market $ Best spot in town for cheap eats and food stalls until 3pm. Upstairs you’ll find strictly halal food.

Good Taste Bah Kut Teh $ Bah kut teh broth the Sandakan way, with seafood versions, such as prawn, along with traditional pork.

Bistro 88 $ One of several good waterfront eateries serving beef, chicken and seafood prepared traditionally Asian or Western-style.

Restaurant Seafood Sim Sim 88 $ Neon-lit seafood restaurant with a large breezy terrace on stilts at Kampong Buli Sim Sim.

Kampung Culture

Visit Kampung Buli Sim Sim

A traditional Malay stilt village, 3km east of the city centre, Buli Sim Sim is the original settlement that gave rise to Sandakan back in 1879. It’s an atmospheric (and pungent) place to wander around, though some of the wooden walkways have been replaced with concrete and there’s a serious plastic water-bottle trash problem. Locals come here to haggle over fresh and dried fish and to dine at the likes of Restaurant Seafood Sim Sim 88. Walk out along the pier at SEA Garden to get a different aspect of the water village. A Grab ride from the centre should cost less than RM10.

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF GIANTS

As the Allies closed in on North Borneo in 1945 the Japanese Army decided to force-march the POWs inland to Ranau, a trek of almost 250km, which became known as the Sandakan Death Marches. Disease, starvation, exhaustion, torture and executions took a horrendous toll. Of the 2400 men who left Sandakan, only six Australians survived after escaping the Japanese and being helped by locals. Look for the fascinating story of the ‘Ring Lady’ on the remembrance wall of the Hotel Elopura.

Today, TYK Adventure Tours offers treks covering all or part of the original route from two to 12 days. The trekking is challenging, and the tours pass many historical and cultural sites, walking in the footsteps of the POWs.

Sepilok’s Swinging Orangutans

Protecting Borneo’s noble natural heritage

Renowned globally, Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre (SORC) was established in 1964 as Borneo’s first official orangutan rehabilitation centre. Today it draws visitors for guaranteed sightings of the noble Bornean orangutan at an established feeding platform. Watching the trees shake and catching that first glimpse of maroon-orange hair emerging from the trees is a moment you’ll never forget.

This is not a zoo and the animals are free to move around; the 40-sq-km Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve harbours many displaced, orphaned and injured orangutans monitored for rehabilitation before being returned to forest life, usually in Tabin Wildlife Reserve.

The key attraction here is the feeding platform, reached via a wheelchair-accessible boardwalk from the park entrance and open twice daily (10am and 3pm). Bananas and other fruits are used to coax a few orangutans out of the jungle and to supplement their food sources. Mothers with babies are frequent visitors, while macaques and squirrels may also appear to raid the food stocks. There are up to 200 orangutans living in the sanctuary, though only a few are regular visitors to the feeding platform, most preferring to forage for themselves in the forest. Although feedings can last 45 minutes, they’re often over in less than half an hour, so arrive early to secure a spot. The afternoon feedings are far less crowded as the tour groups come for the morning session. Tickets are valid for one day, so you can attend both feedings with the same ticket.

At the outdoor nursery, a short walk from the feeding platform, you can watch orphaned youngsters at play from either the air-conditioned or fan-cooled viewing stalls. Arrive when the centre opens at 9am as they’re more active in the morning.

EATING IN SANDAKAN: UPMARKET

Ba Lin Roof Garden $$ Rooftop restaurant/bar atop the Nak Hotel with an international menu, harbour views, cocktails and happy hour.

San Da Gen Kopitiam $$ Chic, light-filled corner cafe serving breakfast, cakes and upmarket takes on kopitiam food.

Waterfront Seafood $$ Casual, open-air seafood place with an extensive menu, beside the water in front of Harbour Mall; serves beer.

English Tea House $$$ Villa and manicured gardens with colonial ambience, serving high tea, scones, shepherd’s pie and fish and chips.

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre | Lindsay Fegent-Brown/lonely planet ©

HILLSIDE BURIALS

On a hill about 1km east of Agnes Keith House, Sandakan’s old Chinese cemetery is huge and the hillside graves are an impressive sight from the road above.

Just before the cemetery entrance is a terrace with a memorial to the 30 Chinese victims of the Sandakan Massacre on 27 May 1945 – mostly community leaders who were part of the WWII underground movement. Further in you will find charnel houses that accommodate important members of Sandakan’s major Chinese clans, plus many graves that are being consumed by the forest.

Beyond the Chinese cemetery is the much smaller Japanese cemetery, founded in the 1890s long before WWII. A monument was erected here to fallen Japanese soldiers in 1989.

Meet the Sun Bears

Saving a unique, endangered species

Sun bears, the world’s smallest bear, are an endangered species endemic to Southeast Asia and this sanctuary in Sepilok does admirable work taking in orphaned, injured or unwanted ‘pet’ bears. Those that are deemed suitable are released back into the wild; the others are permanently housed here.

The Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC; bsbcc.org.my), established in 2008 by wildlife biologist Dr Wong Siew Te, currently cares for around 44 rescued bears. Two elevated boardwalks and viewing platforms make it possible to see the bears foraging, climbing and sunning themselves in the forest. There are telescopes set up for a closer look, rangers are on hand to answer any questions and the centre has access for people with disabilities.

Named for the golden bracelet of fur around their necks, the sun bears’ Rorschach-like pattern is never duplicated, varying in colour from cream to orange. Sun bears are found throughout Southeast Asia, usually at an altitude of around 2700m. They’re excellent climbers, equipped with long claws to scale high trees in search of beehives. As they’ll rip a cavity in the trunk to get to their honey, they create a safe place for hornbills and other birds to nest. They also control the forest’s destructive population of termites, a critical part of the bears’ diet.

You can donate to help with feeding and veterinary costs and ‘adopt’ a bear. The sanctuary also runs a volunteer program where you can spend between two and four weeks working with the bear keeper. See the website for details or go to Ape Malaysia (apemalaysia.com) which facilitates the program.

SANDAKAN STREET ART

Sandakan, home to renowned street artist Kenji Chai, has a small but interesting street-art scene. Signboards explain the murals and help you locate the next one.

At the Central Market are murals of marine life celebrating Sandakan’s fishing heritage. Opposite is an orangutan mural on the side of the Harbour Mall. Walk along the waterfront to the Hotel Elopura which, along with a memorial wall, has pop culture murals featuring Star Wars and Fast & Furious. North of the hotel is a narrow laneway, Laluan Kreatif (Creative Lane), with a ceiling of bright umbrellas and murals depicting local traders. A few blocks further east, behind the bus station, is a wall mural depicting a postage stamp and the ‘Little Hong Kong’ traveller.

Walking among the Treetops

Discovering rainforest wildlife

The Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC, facebook.com/sepilokrdc), about 2km from SORC, offers an engaging introduction to the local flora and fauna.

The outstanding feature here is the almost-500m-long Rainforest Skywalk, an elevated canopy walkway that gets as high as 27m, allowing you to peer down into the forest. Three towers with spiral staircases climb even higher, a real bonus for bird-watchers, and you may see flying squirrels glide between the treetops, especially on night walks.

Down at ground level there’s a series of easy, interconnecting nature trails, including the 1km trail around the pretty central lake with a swing bridge crossing. For a more demanding trek, the 20km return Kabili Trail requires a Forest Reserve Entry Permit available at the RDC ticket office. There are three shelters along the trail but nowhere to stay or camp – you must return via the same trail; guides aren’t obligatory but can be arranged.

Another recommended activity here is the guided night walk departing every evening at 5pm, led by local naturalists. You might spot tarsiers, slow loris, civets, flying squirrels and other night critters. Book in the morning or the day before.

The Rainforest Discovery Centre is open daily from 8am so you can get here early before the first feeding at SORC. There’s an exhibit hall near the ticket office with some interesting nature displays and a cafe at the start of the canopy walk.

SUN BEAR WOES

Across Asia the sun bear is caught and slaughtered for meat and traditional Chinese medicine. In countries such as China and Vietnam, bears are restrained in tiny cages and hooked up to IVs that pump bile from their gallbladders. Thankfully this does not happen in Sabah, though the bears are still under enormous threat from habitat loss. Bears donated to the centre are first checked for diseases and health issues arising from their ordeal as humans’ pets, before being transferred to the training pen. A new arrival will learn to socialise, climb, build nests and forage before a possible release into the wild.

A Nose for Monkeys

Sniff out some extraordinary primates

Proboscis monkeys (Nasalis larvatus) are found only in Borneo and they’re among the most extraordinary-looking primates you will ever see, the males sporting long bulbous noses, pot bellies and a seemingly constant erection.

About 25km northwest of Sepilok and 15km off the highway, a palm-plantation owner has created the private Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, attracting family troops of wild monkeys with beans, cucumber and sugar-free pancakes to two feeding platforms on the edge of the natural forest.

Feeding times are 9.30am and 2.30pm at Platform A, and 11.30am and 4.30pm at Platform B, 1km away. An estimated 300 wild monkeys live in the 6-sq-km reserve and entire harems will happily arrive at the platform well before the food arrives. Although the feeding platform viewpoint isn’t everyone’s idea of an ecologically sound experience, this might be the closest you’ll ever get to seeing these extraordinary monkeys in the wild and allows for amazing photographic opportunities.

There’s no public transport (apart from tour buses) to Labuk Bay but the route from the highway is signposted and largely paved. Lodgings, taxis and Grab drivers in Sepilok can arrange transport, including waiting time.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre

SIGHTS

2  Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre

3  Rainforest Discovery Centre

SLEEPING

4  Sepilok B&B

5  Sepilok Forest Edge Resort

6  Sepilok Jungle Resort

7  Sepilok Nature Resort

EATING

8  Kafeteria Sepilok

See 7  Lake Bistro & Bar

9  Mama Wati’s

Sea Turtle Conservation

Haven for endangered turtles

The Sandakan Archipelago is made up of a number of large islands, three of which, Selingan, Bakungan Kecil and Gulisan, have turtle hatcheries and comprise Turtle Islands Park.

Gazetted in 1977, Turtle Islands Park is a haven for the endangered green and hawksbill turtles. The park allows a limited number of visitors the rare opportunity to watch turtle landings and see hatchlings being released.

Crystal Quest (turtleisland.com.my) and Sandakan Hotspot (sandakanhotspot.com) operate tours to Pulau Selingan. The trip starts with a one-hour boat ride to the uninhabited island. After a briefing at the visitor centre and settling into your accommodation, there’s free time to walk around the island, swim and snorkel. You might be lucky enough to see turtle hatchlings burrowing up through the sand and battling their way down the beach in daylight – these are from naturally hatching eggs not found or collected by rangers. After dark the rangers search for female turtles coming ashore where you can respectfully watch the laying and the process of measuring and checking tags – every detail is meticulously recorded. Eggs are then carefully transferred to the hatchery. New hatchlings are released on the beach so they can start the cycle again. These turtles will most likely return to the same beach on Selingan to lay their eggs, regardless of how far they have roamed in the intervening years.

Narsalis Larvatus Tours (narsalislarvatustours.com) works with Sabah Parks and the villagers on Pulau Libaran. Tours to the island’s Walai Penyu Conservation Park are like those to Selingan, but with accommodation in safari tents; boat departures are from Sandakan Yacht Club.

TURTLE LIFE

Green and hawksbill are the most common species of marine turtle found in these waters.

Females usually return to the same beach they were born on to lay their eggs (called natal homing), laying between 50 and 120 eggs in a clutch. It’s thought that fewer than 1% of eggs or turtle hatchlings will survive to adulthood. Those that make it to sexual maturity can live up to 80 years in the wild.

Turtles can swim thousands of kilometres between feeding sites and breeding site (close to their birthplace). Turtles spend most of their lives underwater but need to surface frequently to breathe.

Lankayan Luxury

Diving in wildlife-rich waters

A sand-haloed speck far out at sea, spectacular Pulau Lankayan is part of a protected marine reserve and one of Eastern Sabah’s more exclusive islands, with just one luxury dive resort (dive-malaysia.com). Honeymooners and divers come here for the seclusion and exploration of the island’s 14 dive sites, rich in leopard sharks, stingrays, giant groupers, harlequin ghost pipefish, parrotfish and other creatures of the deep.

Pulau Lankayan is also a turtle nesting ground, with hatcheries around the island and sightings pretty much guaranteed both above and beneath the waves.

Sungai Kinabatangan

RIVERSIDE WILDLIFE | MAGICAL SUNSETS | LOCAL HOSPITALITY

The anticipation is palpable as you glide along the river with other enthusiasts in search of wildlife. Excitement takes hold as a rustle of jungle foliage reveals an orangutan or a playful group of proboscis monkeys. The riverine forests that hug the Sungai Kinabatangan, Sabah’s longest inland waterway at 560km, are ideal wildlife-watching territory.

Dozens of boats drift along the banks, into oxbow lakes and down narrow tributaries of riverine forest, with guides pointing out primates and birdlife and handing around the binoculars. This is the only place in Sabah where you can find a concentration of 10 primates and is protected in fragmented parts by the 260-sq-km Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary.

Lodges and homestays are scattered around the upper and lower reaches of the river, with most concentrated around Bilit and Sukau. Most lodges operate on packages of two to three days with river trips, guides and meals included.

SIGHTS

1  Bukit Belanda

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

2  Agop Batu Tulug

3  Gomantong Caves

SLEEPING

4  Balai Kito Homestay

5  Borneo Natural Sakau Bilit Resort

6  Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge

7  Miso Walai Homestay

See 5  Nature Lodge Kinabatangan

8  Osman’s Homestay

See 6  Sukau Backpackers B&B

9  Sukau Rainforest Lodge

10  Sukau Village Viewstay

11  Tanjung Bulat Jungle Camp

12  Tungog Rainforest Eco Camp

13  Uncle Tan’s Jungle Camp

GETTING AROUND

River lodges, especially the more remote or upmarket ones, should arrange transfers from Sandakan, Sepilok or Tawau as part of your booked package. In some cases this might include boat transport to the final destination. Coming from KK or Semporna by bus, ask the driver to let you off at ‘Sukau Junction’, also known as ‘Meeting Point’, the turnoff road to reach Sukau and prearrange a pick-up from there if staying at a homestay or guesthouse in Sukau or Bilit.

Cruising the Kinabatangan

Wildlife watching from the water

A wildlife cruise down the Kinabatangan is the primary experience here and with a good guide and some good fortune it can be an unforgettable one.

Late afternoon and early morning boat trips cruise the river in search of nest-building orangutans, playful proboscis monkeys, shy silver- and red-leaf langurs, basking monitor lizards and chattering long-tailed and pig-tailed macaques. Sadly, one reason so many animals are here is the expansion of oil-palm plantations (and before that, logging) driving local wildlife to the riverbank. The animals simply have less natural forest in which to live.

Avian wildlife along the Kinabatangan is more numerous and varied during rainier months (usually October to late March), which coincides with northern-hemisphere migrations. Though friendly for birds, the rainy season isn’t so accommodating for humans! Nevertheless, colourful birds are a huge draw for visitors: all eight varieties of Borneo’s spectacular hornbills, brightly coloured pittas, kingfishers, Storm’s storks and Oriental darters, plus many more species nest, rest and forage in the forests hugging the Kinabatangan.

Mammals, such as primates and elephants, can be seen all year, moving around singly or in small groups. The success rate of animal spotting largely depends on luck and the local knowledge and sharp eyes and ears of your guide. In the late afternoon you’ll be looking for proboscis monkeys perching on overhanging branches and crocs looking for a clumsy monkey. The cruise goes next level when you veer off the Kinabatangan and slowly explore its narrow, tree-shaded tributaries.

Night cruises and night walks add another dimension and might reveal pygmy elephants, pythons coiled in trees, civet cats, buffy fish owls, flat-headed cats and the eyes of crocodiles glinting red in the torchlight.

Almost all lodges include guided river tours in package rates of one to three nights. If you prefer to explore independently, contact local homestay programs, which will be able to hook you up with a boat operator and guide.

TOP TIP

Sungai Kinabatangan is a very long river but most lodges and homestays are concentrated in Bilit and Sukau, tiny villages about 5km apart and 40km east of the main highway. There are more homestays south of Sukau Junction.

WILD-SIDE WALKING

Depending on where you stay, night hikes of one to three hours’ duration through the riverine forest may be on offer. There’s something magical about being plunged into the intense, cavern-like darkness of the jungle at night. You need enclosed shoes, long pants and long sleeves, a good torch and, finally, a good guide to ensure you get home. Head torches should be carried in your hand – all manner of creatures are attracted to light.

Batu Tulug caves | Uwe Aranas/shutterstock ©

CONSERVATION WORK IN PROGRESS

Inside Sukau village is the Kinabatangan Orangutan Conservation Project (KOCP) conservation camp, run by Hutan (hutan.org.my). Hutan is an NGO dedicated to studying and protecting the orangutan and other species such as pygmy elephants and hornbills using a holistic approach in consultation with local communities. The project has revealed that orangutans can indeed survive in forest habitats that are exploited and altered by human activity. The key is sustainable practices. Hutan also establishes environmental-education programs, reforestation initiatives, wildlife corridors and an elephant conservation project in the Sukau-Bilit area. It’s not open to casual visitors, but staff may be willing to discuss projects and to hire out guides for tracking wild orangutans; contact them well in advance.

Burial Rites of the Orang Sungai

Ancient culture of Agop Batu Tulug

The hill of Agop Batu Tulug, just off the highway, 2km north of the Batuh Putih bridge over the Sungai Kinabatangan features three caves housing the ancestors of local Orang Sungai (People of the River). Because the Kinabatangan has a habit of frequently flooding, the final resting place of the dead has traditionally been located in such elevated cave complexes. Heavy 900-year-old ironwood coffins are interred in the Batu Tulug caves with spears, knives, gongs, bells and Chinese curios, making the hill one of the most important archaeological sites in Sabah (see museum.sabah.gov.my).

Steep wooden staircases snake up the 40m hill to the caves. Halfway to the top, a small museum details the history of cave burials in the Kinbatangan area and showcases some funereal objects found in the caves, as well as a splendid example of an ornately carved ironwood coffin.

Of the three caves, two are open to the public. Agop Lintanga, the larger cave, has the largest coffin collection, though they are unadorned, suggesting they were used for interring the bodies of common people. Smaller Agop Sawat, accessible from the lookout on top of the hill, has five carved log coffins, decorated with ox heads – more elaborate coffins reserved for chieftains. From the summit viewpoint you’ll be rewarded with a 360-degree view of oil-palm plantations encroaching on the remnant forest and the Sungai Kinabatangan.

If you’ve got your own vehicle, look for signs indicating the turn-off to the Batu Caves, 18km south of the Sukau junction. The easiest way to get here is to include the caves in your package tour of the Sungai Kinabatangan.

The Homestay Experience

Live the local life

The Kinabatangan region is the one of the best places in Sabah to experience contemporary village life and local hospitality. Homestay programs have proved popular and successful in Sukau, Bilit and other villages along the river. Travellers can stay, even for extended periods, with local Orang Sungai and so inject money directly into local economies. While some homestays can be contacted directly, there are homestay program coordinators who will place you with individual families.

When staying in a homestay, it is important to act as a guest in someone’s home. Privacy will be reduced; accommodation may be very basic, and you might be expected to help with basic chores, cooking, cleaning etc (depending on the family you stay with). Guests should always dress modestly, and couples should avoid overt displays of affection that may embarrass the locals. Also, English may not be as widely spoken as it is in larger towns. It is a truly immersive experience.

Homestay owners will be able to arrange river guides and boat captains. Packages are also available. A typical two-night package includes meals, a guided village walk and jungle walk, and a one-day and overnight river cruise.

Sukau Village Viewstay and Balai Kito Homestay offer accommodation and can connect you with other homestays, cultural programs, volunteer projects, treks and wildlife cruises. Also recommended in Sukau is Osman’s Homestay, a simple, friendly place on the opposite side of the river from the village.

Bilit Village Homestay is a community-based program involving around 10 local families who share the load and rewards on a rotation system. Look for the official ‘Homestay Malaysia’ signs.

Miso Walai Homestay, based at the KOPEL cooperative centre in Mengaris village (where the Kinabatangan River crosses the A5 highway), is one of the oldest community ecotourism initiatives in the area. As well as the homestay program and river cruises, travellers can volunteer here with tree-planting and rainforest conservation.

It is also possible to stay at remote camps, including Tanjung Bulat Jungle Camp, situated on an oxbow lake far from any village. Afiq runs this remote camp, which is reached by boat. Uncle Tan’s Jungle Camp is one of Kinabatangan’s original eco camps. It’s basic and very isolated but the real deal. Another option is the Tungog Rainforest Eco Camp, a budget riverside camp run by the KOPEL cooperative. This is not a luxurious camp, but it is less remote than many others.

CONSERVATION IN ACTION

Bukit Belanda – Dutch Hill – is a 420m hill located behind the village of Bilit. The land is owned by the community of Bilit, who, despite pressures and incentives from logging companies, have not opened the hill to the timber industry, preferring to maintain it as a haven for wildlife and for the generations of Bilit citizens to come. If you are physically fit, you can hike to the top early in the morning. Here you’ll be rewarded by lovely views of Sungai Kinabatangan. There’s no official infrastructure here; just ask someone at your lodge or Bilit itself to guide you to the beginning of the ascent path.

Gomantong Caves

Cave of swiftlets, cockroaches and guano

Gomantong Caves is a large cave system cutting through a limestone hill about 28km west of Sukau and a few kilometres south of the road to Sukau Junction. It’s known in Sabah as the best natural source of swiftlet nests, used in the Chinese delicacy birds’ nest soup.

There are two types of soup-worthy nests: black and white. The white nests are more valuable and Gomantong has a lot of them. Harvesting the nests with ropes, rattan ladders and bamboo poles is a perilous task, though the rewards are staggering. A kilogram of white swiftlet spit can bring in over US$4000, making it a lucrative profession. Today the caves operate on a four-month cycle, with closures at the beginning of the term to discourage nest hunters.

The caves were closed to visitors at the time of research to allow authorities to rebuild boardwalks, develop a proposed visitor centre and viewing platform for the bat exodus, all while protecting the important nests. One of the aims of the upgrade works, due for completion in 2024, was to make Simud Putih (White Cave) more accessible. Before the closure, Simud Hitam (Black Cave) was the only cave open to the public and was notorious for the pungent odours and creepy crawlies emanating from a massive pile of bat and swiftlet guano in the centre of a soaring cavern. Enclosed shoes are a must – you have been warned! Also, time permitting, visitors should stick around to witness the bat exodus in the evening.

Gomantong Caves | Uwe Aranas/shutterstock ©

ACCOMMODATION & ACTIVITY PACKAGES

The majority of river lodges and jungle camps along the Kinabatangan operate on all-inclusive packages of two or three days (or more). A two-day/one-night package will likely include lunch and dinner, a late afternoon wildlife cruise, a night walk or cruise then an early morning boat trip before breakfast and checkout. More common is the three-day/two-night package which adds in additional boat trips and an optional jungle trek. These packages usually also include transport to and from the lodge (in some cases only accessible by boat). Overland transport from Sandakan often includes a visit to Sepilok and to Gomantong Caves. If you prefer to do things independently, and on a cheaper budget, check out the local homestays.

Beyond Sungai Kinabatangan

Neighbouring the renowned Sungai Kinabatangan are some of Sabah’s best, wildest and lesser-known parks for experiencing Bornean wildlife.

About 100km south of Kinabatangan, Lahad Datu is the jumping-off point for two of eastern Sabah’s finest wildlife parks, Tabin Wildlife Reserve and Danum Valley Conservation Area, while west of Kinabatangan are the remote and adventurous reserves of Deramakot and Imbak Canyon – making this prime territory for wilderness expeditions and observing nature in all its glory. You are either here to be immersed in nature, spotting rare birds, shy orangutans, haunting clouded leopards etc or you have made a mistake when booking.

All these parks are best visited by organised tour and numerous operators can get you there by 4WD. Some parks have high-end lodge accommodation, in others you are limited to basic digs shared with wildlife researchers.

GETTING AROUND

There’s a daily flight from KK to Tawau and buses between KK and Tawau stop in Lahad Datu. Minivans also operate to Sandakan and Semporna. Transport from Lahad Datu to Danum Valley or Tabin Wildlife Reserve is included with your tour or accommodation booking.

Both Deramakot Forest Reserve and Imbak Canyon are accessed via the tiny town of Telupid, about 100km southeast of Ranau (between Ranau and Sandakan); from there on it is 4WD only.

Lahad Datu

Crossroads of the east

Lahad Datu is a major town in eastern Sabah; behind only Sandakan and Tawau in size. For travellers, however, it’s essentially an air hub and a crossroads, roughly halfway between Sandakan and Semporna and the main base for Tabin Wildlife Reserve to the east and Danum Valley to the west.

For local knowledge seek out Simon and Itisha at Bike & Tours B&B. The guesthouse and home-cooked evening meals are recommended. With advance notice they can arrange a variety of ecotours to secret spots around Lahad Datu.

Most accommodation in Lahad Datu is near the waterfront, while the bus station and offices of Danum Valley Field Centre and Borneo Nature Tours (which runs the Borneo Rainforest Lodge) are across the highway from the airport in the upper part of town known as Taman Fajar. The office of Tabin Wildlife Holidays is even more convenient, right in the airport terminal building.

WHY I LOVE DANUM VALLEY

Lindsay Fegent-Brown, writer

Right from your departure from Lahud Datu you feel like you are on an adventure. The long drive inland takes you from the monotonous ocean of oil palm into the multihued, multilayered vegetation of primary rainforest. Upon arrival you put yourself in the hands of experienced guides who relish showing the world the extraordinary splendour and richness of the valley. Each day is different. At night, dinner is crashed by clumsy owls, an after-dinner walk reveals a pit viper under a bridge. Morning is announced by garrulous gibbons, an elephant is also heard but not seen, while two flanged male orangutans demonstrate that life is not always peaceful in this paradise, but it is very, very real.

Danum Valley Conservation AreaTIME FROM KINABATANGAN: 4 HRS

Wildlife conservation and research

The 440-sq-km Danum Valley Conservation Area is home to an astonishing variety of flora and fauna and a world-class conservation field centre that attracts scientists, students and naturalists from around the globe. If your fantasy is to participate in your very own wildlife documentary, then this is the place to come. The almost impenetrable arboreal fortress is fed by Sungai Segama and shaded by 70m-high old-growth trees and 1093m-high Gunung Danum.

Recognised as one of the world’s most complex ecosystems, it is said that a new species of plant is found here every week. The area is recognised for its orangutans, tarsiers, sambar deer, bearded pigs (making a comeback after a devastating outbreak of swine flu), flying squirrels, king cobras, proboscis monkeys, red-leaf monkeys, gibbons and pygmy elephants. It is also known for its medium-sized felines, with the handsomely dappled clouded leopard spotted on night drives, as well as the flat-headed cat, marbled cat, leopard cat and bay cat.

Bird-watchers from around the world descend on Danum to see rare and wonderful rainforest species, including the great argus pheasant, crested fireback pheasant, blue-headed pitta, Bornean bristlehead and several species of hornbill. The main activities here are night drives and day and night walks on more than 50km of marked trails.

For the wildlife enthusiast

The Danum Valley Field Centre is an outpost for scientists and researchers that also welcomes wildlife enthusiasts. This is the best budget option and the most affordable of all of Sabah’s interior conservation areas. There are no professionally trained guides at the field centre – only rangers who can show you the trails if you just turn up – but book with a tour company and it will provide you with a guide. Around the field centre, it’s about a two-hour hike to the Tembaling Falls, a cool slice of tropical beauty. A more strenuous, four-hour trek gets you to the immensely rewarding Sungai Purut Falls, a series of seven-tiered pools that are fed by waters that drop 20m from the nearby mountains. The Coffin Trail, across the suspension bridge, is a 30-minute walk to a large rocky overhang, beneath which are a few 500-year-old ironwood coffins, some still containing the mortal remains of Dusun people. There’s a short nature-trail loop next to the field centre that you can tackle by yourself.

Sumptuous safari lodgings

Luxurious Borneo Rainforest Lodge offers highly recommended, all-inclusive packages with trained guides, packed programs, five-star amenities, and it even boasts a canopy walkway. The Coffin Cliff Trail is a good way to start your exploration and get your bearings. It climbs for 3km to a cliff where the remains of some Kadazan–Dusun coffins can be seen. A panoramic viewpoint is reached 100m further up the cliff. Descent is usually via scenic Fairy Falls and Serpent Falls, a pair of 15m-high waterfalls that are good for a refreshing dip.

The Danum, Elephant and Segama Trails all follow various sections of the Danum Valley and are mostly flat trails offering good chances for wildlife spotting. All can be done in an hour or two. The Hornbill and East Trails have a few hills, but are still relatively easy, with similarly good chances for wildlife sightings. Finally, the Nature Trail is a short plank walk near the lodge that allows you to walk into the forest unmolested by leeches.

Pygmy elephant, Danum Valley | Lindsay Fegent-Brown/lonely planet ©

GEARING UP FOR THE TRAILS

A little insider knowledge on equipment goes a long way during treks in the rainforest. For footwear, many locals and guides eschew heavy hiking boots and instead swear by ‘Adidas kampung’, a Malaysian-made rubber shoe with cleats on the sole. They are cheap, hard-wearing, lightweight, waterproof and dry quickly. The soles have good grip so you can cross rivers and slippery rocks with confidence. Leech socks, which go inside your shoes and outside your long pants, and tie tightly at the top, won’t win you a fashion award, but will keep these bloodsuckers at bay.

Also bring along a powerful flashlight or head torch, long pants (leeches again) and insect repellent.

Tabin Wildlife ReserveTIME FROM KINABATANGAN: 3½ HRS

Safari drives, night walks and mud volcanoes

The 1120-sq-km Tabin Wildlife Reserve is one of Sabah’s most important reserves and certainly its largest. It consists mainly of lowland dipterocarp forest, much of it primary unlogged forest, with some secondary forest and mangrove areas. The stars here are the elephants and primates – gibbons, red-leaf monkeys and orangutans. Rescued and rehabilitated orangutans and sun bears from Sepilok are released here, so it plays an important role in the conservation of some of Borneo’s most vulnerable wildlife.

Birdlife is particularly abundant, with more than 300 species recorded here, and some naturalists come for the frogs and toads alone: the nocturnal croaking chorus consists of 71 species.

Tabin has several fascinating mud volcanoes and natural salt springs where animals and birds gather for their precious minerals, and you can watch all the activity from viewing towers. Dawn forest walks and safaris are excellent for spotting birds and gibbons, while afternoon hikes and night walks and drives improve your chances of seeing many of the more secretive animals.

There are eight hiking trails around the Tabin Wildlife Resort, varying in difficulty and in length from 400m to 2.8km. Three trails lead directly from the resort, including the Gibbon Trail (2.8km), which snakes its way to the pretty Lipa Waterfall, where you can take a refreshing dip. The Elephant Trail (2.2km) takes you from the Wildlife Department office near the resort to Lipad mud volcano to see the belching mud pits. The resort is the only accommodation in the reserve, and it’s typically packaged up with meals, transport to and from Lahad Datu, guided walks and a night safari.

Red leaf monkey, Danum Valley | Lindsay Fegent-Brown/lonelyplanet ©

REWILDING KAWAG FOREST

A lesser-known and more affordable alternative to Danum Valley, Kawag Forest, about 50km west of Lahad Datu, is part of the Ulu Segama Malua Forest Reserve that acts as a buffer zone to the Danum Valley Conservation Area. The mostly secondary rainforest is a testament to the positive effects of rewilding and ecotourism on the region. Extensive logging devastated the area, but much of the damage has been reversed since it was declared a protected forest reserve in 2012. This has also led to the return of abundant wildlife including orangutans and pygmy elephants – a considerable draw today for ecotourists, who also enjoy the swimming holes, water tubing, night drives and comfortable accommodation in the Kawag Nature Lodge.

Deramakot Forest ReserveTIME FROM KINABATANGAN: 4 HRS

Deep into the jungle by 4WD

The 555-sq-km Deramakot Forest Reserve is a rare success story of sustainable logging, with the strategic felling of trees coexisting alongside conservation efforts to protect Borneo’s most vulnerable species. The reserve has become a favourite among wildlife-watchers, particularly those hoping to spot the elusive Bornean clouded leopard.

The main activity in the reserve is a wildlife drive in open-top safari vehicles along the 32km logging road that leads to the Sungai Kinabatangan as well as along smaller, adjoining logging roads. There are two or three wildlife drives per day, one starting before sunrise and at least one after sunset. Night brings a high likelihood of spotting Borneo’s impressive mammals.

The only way to enter the reserve is by organised tour, which includes meals, guides, basic chalet or hostel accommodation and 4WD transport from Telupid. Adventure Alternative Borneo was the pioneer, and it still does most of the tours in the reserve, though several other operators, including Borneo Adventure and Borneo Ecotours, also work with Sabah Parks.

Imbak CanyonTIME FROM KINABATANGAN: 5 HRS

Crucial canyon corridor

The impressive Imbak Canyon, a 25km-long valley of pristine rainforest, hemmed in on three sides by immense sandstone cliffs, is the centrepiece of the remote 300-sq-km Imbak Canyon Conservation Area.

Exploration of this ‘lost world’ ecosystem suggests that it’s one of the most biodiverse areas in Borneo, sheltering a wealth of animal life including pygmy elephants, clouded leopards, orangutans and gibbons. Highlights include several waterfalls, including the 39m-high Imbak Falls, while the reserve itself is a crucial wildlife corridor between Danum Valley and Maliau Basin.

The Imbak Canyon Studies Centre (ICSC) is park headquarters and a research facility with accommodation. It is only accessible as part of a package tour that you can book directly with ICSC/Yayasan Sabah, or through one of the KK-based tour companies such as Borneo Adventure, Borneo Eco Tours and Adventure Alternative Borneo.

PACKAGED TOUR COSTS

Visiting Sabah’s parks and reserves can be expensive – especially if you’re a solo traveller. Groups of six or more can really bring the costs down, which is why joining an organised tour is sometimes the only way to go. All of the reserves have hostel accommodation for the budget-minded, while Danum Valley Field Centre, Imbak Canyon and Maliau Basin, managed by Yayasan Sabah, can be booked direct. You’ll still need to organise transport into the reserves and hook up with others to reduce guide fees. It is usually best to shop around among recognised tour operators and to acknowledge that good guides and vehicles aren’t cheap.

Semporna & the Archipelago

RIVERSIDE WILDLIFE | MAGICAL SUNSETS | LOCAL HOSPITALITY

The stunning sapphire waters and emerald isles of the Semporna Archipelago, where stateless Bajau Laut sea nomads live alongside world-class dive resorts, are plucked from your most vivid imaginings of tropical paradise.

The Semporna Islands are loosely divided into two geographical sections: the northern islands, of which eight are protected as Tun Sakaran Marine Park, including Bohey Dalang and Pom Pom, with Mataking just outside the park, and the southern islands which includes Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai. Pulau Sipadan, declared a marine park in 2004, is the undisputed star of the show but there’s also excellent diving around Pulau Mabul and Tun Sakaran Marine Park, all less than an hour by speedboat from Semporna town on the mainland.

This is first and foremost a diving destination – one of the best in the world – but even non-divers will enjoy island-hopping boat trips, snorkelling in shallow reefs, eating fresh seafood and staying in romantic overwater bungalows.

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

1  Big John Scuba

2  Sipadan Scuba

SLEEPING

3  Kuree Hut

4  Sipadan Inn

EATING

5  Fat Mom’s

6  Restoran Al-Thaufika

7  Restoran Bismillah

8  Summer Breeze Cafe

GETTING AROUND

Semporna is easily reached via Tawau, which has an airport. Minivans and buses from Sandakan, Lahad Datu and Tawau halt at the bus station or the Tawau minivan stop, a couple of blocks from the waterfront. Grab taxis are available.

All transport to the archipelago goes through Semporna. Most boats depart from one of three public jetties in the morning. Higher-end diving resorts include boat transfer in package prices; budget ones may charge extra. It takes around one hour to reach the islands of Tun Sakaran Marine Park or to Pulau Mabul and Sipadan.

Hanging around Semporna Town

Departure point for the islands

Semporna town tends to get a bad rap from travellers – most itching to get out to the islands – but this is where you’ll start your island adventure and afternoon arrivals often have to overnight here.

The area around the main jetty and market is trash-strewn and the Bajau street kids from the sprawling stilt villages follow tourists about begging for money. The seafront is the departure point for island day trips, and all the main dive resort companies have offices here. This is where you’ll register with your booked resort, organise boat transfers and store luggage.

Semporna also has a range of accommodation and some good seafood restaurants on the waterfront, so overnighting here before or after heading to the islands is easy. Semporna town behind the waterfront has ATMs, supermarkets, shopping malls and even fast-food joints – all the things you won’t find on the islands.

The large island directly across the water from Semporna is Pulau Bum Bum, with several Bajau water villages, and some appealing overwater resorts on its northeastern side. Taxi boats leave from the main jetty to Balimbang village for just a few ringgit as soon as there are enough passengers. Local minivan drivers at Balimbang jetty will offer to give you a short tour of the island for around RM50.

TOP TIP

Divers flock here for the underwater world so it pays to plan and book well ahead in high season (June to September) if you want to secure that Sipadan permit.

Day Trip to the Islands

Hiking and snorkelling Semporna

If you’re not a diver and wondering whether to visit Semporna, the answer is yes. A must-do day trip, especially for non-divers, is an island tour to Tun Sakaran Marine Park, northeast of Semporna. There are a variety of options but the most popular trip visits Bohey Dulang island, Pulau Sibuan and Pulau Mantabuan. Pom Pom and Mataking islands are also in this area.

The day starts around 9am from Semporna Jetty with a 45-minute ride out to Pulau Bohey Dulang, a forested island with a long pier, small museum and popular 700m hike to the viewpoint at Bohey Dulang Peak. The hike is steep and slippery in places, and you must wear enclosed shoes (they can be hired from a kiosk at the pier) but anyone with a moderate level of fitness can do it. You’re rewarded at the top with a sensational view of nearby Pulau Bodgaya and the ethereal turquoise shallows wrapping around the islands.

Next stop is usually for lunch on the boat and snorkelling in the shallow reefs off Pulau Mantabuan. At the Instagram-favourite sandbar island of Pulau Sibuan, coconut sellers set up in the shade and you can paddle or swim in the shallow lukewarm waters.

Any accommodation place and most dive outfits in Semporna can book a trip for you, or head down to the jetty and haggle with the boat captains.

REGATTA LEPA

Traditionally the Bajau Laut sea nomads only set foot on mainland Borneo once a year; for the rest of the time, they lived on small islets or their boats. Today the Bajau go to Semporna and other towns more frequently, but the old cycle of annual return is celebrated and marked by the Regatta Lepa. For visitors the highlight of the festival is the competitive decoration of lepa (traditional single-mast sailing boats). Festival dates vary. Check online and book accommodation well in advance.

View from Bohey Dulang Peak | Yusnizam Yusof/shutterstock ©

DIVING INTO RESORTS

From opulent bungalows to ragtag sea shanties on wobbly stilts, the archipelago offers a variety of accommodation catering to all budgets, with most clustered on Mabul Island (Sipadan’s closest neighbour). Note that prices rise in June through to September and non-divers are charged at lower rates.

At almost all the resorts, you’re tied to a schedule of three to five set meals broken up by three diving (or snorkelling) trips per day. Meals are included, with drinks extra, although tea and coffee are often gratis. High-end resorts have their own bars and restaurants. Consider stocking up on supplies before making your way onto the archipelago. Top-end resorts may have convenience stores with inflated prices.

Diving Pulau Sipadan

Perfection in nature

Pulau Sipadan, 36km off the southeast coast, is justifiably famous in diving circles. The island itself is beautiful, with turquoise water lapping sugar-fine sand, backed by a lush forest of palms and figs. It sits atop a pinnacle of rock that plunges dramatically into the ocean depths and prompted renowned diver and oceanographer Jacques Cousteau to describe it as ‘an untouched piece of art’. A virtual motorway of marine life passes around you on any given day, including parrotfish, batfish, octopus and cuttlefish, reef sharks, lionfish and clownfish.

There are delineated dive sites surrounding the island, the most famous being Barracuda Point, where chevron and blacktail barracuda merge to form impenetrable walls of undulating fish. South Point hosts large pelagics, such as hammerhead and thresher sharks and manta rays, as well as bumphead parrotfish. Expect the current to be strong here. The west side of the island features walls that tumble down to an impossibly deep 2000m – everything about Sipadan is epic in scale!

Sipidan is protected by a limited number of daily dive permits, two dives per permit and a ban on overnight stays. You must have a minimum Advanced Open Water certification to dive at Sipadan. Only 176 permits are issued daily by Sabah Parks, shared out among the various dive operators and resorts. Permits must be booked by 11am the day before the intended dive. It’s possible to turn up in Semporna and secure a permit for Sipadan within a day or two, especially in the low season, but most resorts and operators require you to do at least a day of orientation diving elsewhere first. Resorts on Pulau Mabul recommend two days and six dives with accommodation before securing a Sipadan permit.

Best Base for Divers

Underwater exploring off Pulau Mabul

When accommodation was banned on Sipadan in 2004 most of the operators upped sticks and moved their resorts to Mabul. Today the tiny island has more accommodation than any other in the archipelago, along with two Bajau villages, so it can feel overwhelmingly crowded at times. Still, this is the island of choice for most divers.

Pulau Mabul features some first-rate muck (macro) diving and is an obvious base for speedboat trips to the legendary and nearby underwater world of Sipadan – most resorts request that you do at least one day of diving here before getting a permit for Sipadan. If you walk around the island (it takes about half an hour), you’ll notice a stark contrast between the manicured resort grounds and the poverty of the Malay-Bajau villages found to the south and west. The smaller village sharing the northern shore with the resorts is home to the stateless Bajau Laut sea nomads, while the larger, mixed Malay-Bajau village has stilt houses connected by rickety boardwalks overlooking a trash-swamped beach.

Still the two worlds coexist side by side and the village children are usually excited to have a chat or start up a game of football, volleyball or basketball.

MABUL DIVE OUTFITS

See sipadan.com for a rundown of dive operators.

Scuba Junkie

Highly recommended dive school, ideal for divers of all abilities, committed to marine conservation.

Borneo Divers

Longest-operating diving outfit in Sabah.

Seaventures

Former oil rig now sitting off Pulau Mabul with its own house reef.

Sipadan-Mabul Resort

Dive school, Sipidan permits, luxe accommodation on Mabul.

Uncle Chang’s

Budget resort, snorkelling and diving day trips, including Sipadan

Big John Scuba

Budget rooms, muck diving off Pulau Mabul and Pulau Kapalai.

Sipadan Scuba

Reliable Semporna-based outfit. No accommodation on Mabul.

EATING IN SEMPORNA TOWN

Restoran Bismillah $ Reliable 24-hour for night owls with noodle dishes, seafood, rice, biryani and all manner of variations on roti canai.

Restoran Al-Thaufika $ Unassuming place for such Indian-Malaysian standards such as roti kosong and murtabak (filled roti).

Fat Mom’s $$ Semporna’s go-to place for fresh, tasty seafood. The squid is tender and the sayur belacan greens pack a punch.

Summer Breeze Cafe $$ Popular cafe back from the waterfront; serves pan-Asian standards and cheesy pizzas.

ISLAND SECURITY

If staying on Pulau Mabul and visiting Sipadan you might notice the presence of armed police patrolling the beach and a large Esscom (Eastern Sabah Security Command) forward operation base under construction on Mabul. Esscom was set up in 2013 following a spate of kidnap-for-ransom incidents, and covers 1400km of the east coast of Sabah from Kudat to Tawau, providing security for the islands. Try not to be alarmed – they’re here for your safety and as a powerful deterrent. And so far it’s working.

There have been no reported incidents since 2020 but pirates continue to be active in the region. Always check the latest security warnings with your home country’s travel advisories.

Luxury Dive Resort

Sumptuous Pulau Kapalai

With a lavish world-class resort set on stilts on the shallow sandbanks of the Ligitan reefs, Pulau Kapalai is also one of the best macro dive sites in the world – on any given day you’ll see blue-ringed octopus, bobtail squid, cardinal fish and orangutan crabs. Not so much an island but a small, sloping reef, approximately 15m deep, Pulau Kapalai is ringed with two-dozen dive sites, often visited by boats from Mabul. The five wrecks on the sandy shelf below the reef attract giant stingrays, massive potato groupers and schools of barracuda and jackfish.

Standout dive sites include Mid-Reef, with its pygmy seahorses, Gurnard Point (expect lots of morays, flying gurnard and giant frogfish) and Mandarin Alley, which attracts the rare Mandarin fish, stonefish and harlequin ghost pipefish.

Rescued Reef & Luxury Resort

Pulau Pom Pom and Pulau Mataking

About an hour by boat from Semporna, just beyond the Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Pulau Pom Pom is a pretty island ringed by azure waters and white sand. With a couple of luxury but low-key resorts, Pom Pom is much more peaceful than Mabul – relaxing and swimming are popular with the honeymooning and day-tripping crowd, though scuba diving is still an active pursuit.

The diving is rewarding and the reef that had been damaged by past destructive fishing practices, such as dynamiting, is now being repaired through the work of TRACC (Tropical Research and Conservation Centre), an established marine conservation agency based on the island. Dozens of TRACC volunteers can be found here working on reef restoration projects or helping at the turtle hatchery. Visitors are welcome to stop by and chat with staff and volunteers.

East of Pom Pom, Pulau Mataking is a forested sandbar with beautiful diving – the house reef provides some of the best underwater adventure outside Sipadan for divers and snorkellers. At the southern end of the island, angelfish, Moorish idols and ribbon eels weave their way in and out of the Garden of Eden, while D’Wall, at Pulau Mataking’s north end, is a spectacular drift dive.

Beyond Semporna

Where to after Semporna? Many travellers make a quick exit but there’s more to explore in Sabah’s Deep South.

The south of Sabah, bordering Kalimantan, is often overlooked by travellers or simply passed through by those heading to Semporna or making the border crossing to Indonesia. It’s true that this region has few big-name sights but Tawau, Sabah’s third city, nudges up against the Celebes Sea and boasts some of the best seafood east of KK. The nearby Tawau Hills Park offers excellent hiking and wildlife-watching with few crowds, while further west, the primary rainforest of remote Maliau Basin attracts adventurous wildlife enthusiasts.

This region is thick with palm-oil plantations, a major part of the agricultural economy, but there is also a growing cocoa industry here, along with fishing and timber exports.

TawauTIME FROM SEMPORNA: 2 HRS

Sabah’s Southern City

Sabah’s third-largest city and seaport, Tawau, about two hours by car or minivan from Semporna, is one of Sabah’s crossroad towns and transport hubs. This is the only crossing point with Kalimantan where foreigners can get a visa for Indonesia; ferries make the trip to Nunukan or Tarakan.

Tawau may not be the most picturesque of places, despite its position beside the Celebes Sea and proximity to the Semporna Archipelago, but if you’re flying to and from Tawau to dive Sipadan, it’s a more pleasant place to overnight than Semporna. Tawau was extensively bombed by the Allied forces in 1944 to force out the occupying Japanese army. It was razed to the ground and hastily rebuilt, which is why it’s not an architect’s delight today, but on the upside, it’s the gateway to the awesome Tawau Hills Park, and the launchpad for spotting pygmy elephants on a private plantation.

Food features prominently on the Tawau cultural landscape, with superb, fresh-from-the-boat seafood at several open-air restaurants and hawker stalls down by the waterfront, as well as numerous Malay dishes with origins in Tawau. Thanks to Tawau’s proximity to Indonesia and the large population of Indonesians, Filipinos, Bajau and Hakka Chinese, the city has also developed some non-Malay culinary specialities.

Tawau has some good-value midrange hotels if you’re overnighting, but attractions in the city are thin on the ground. Teck Guan Cocoa Museum, at a local cocoa factory, is dedicated to all things chocolate which you can see and taste on a one-hour tour with Go Borneo Tours.

For local information check out etawau.com.

GETTING AROUND

Tawau city is the transport hub for the region with daily flights from KK. Note though that the airport is 35km east of the city and the main long-distance Sri Indah Regional Bus Terminal is 17km east. Both are easily reached by Grab taxi or any minivan heading east.

Although there’s a (mostly) paved road from Tawau to Maliau Basin and on to Keningau, long-distance buses don’t use this isolated route.

GETTING TO INDONESIA OR BRUNEI

Tawau is Sabah’s border crossing with Kalimantan.

The Indonesian consulate (kemlu.go.id/tawau/en) is at 690-693 Lorong Megah Jaya 10, off Tiku KM 8. Visa applications are processed between 9.30am and 2pm Monday to Friday. You should provide proof of onward travel or a credit card.

At the time of writing, the ferry service to Nunukan (one hour) was operating every day, departing Tawau at 10.30 am. From Nunukan, a ferry departs at 9.30am. Times are subject to change. The ferry service to Tarakan (three to four hours) was not operating at the time of writing. MASWings (maswings.com.my) flies from Tawau to Bandar Seri Begawan and may reinstate flights to Tarakan.

Tawau Hills ParkTIME FROM SEMPORNA: 3 HRS

Accessible Wildlife Reserve

Though bordered by agriculture and human habitation and only 28km north of Tawau city, this easily accessible 280-sq-km nature reserve rates highly with wildlife enthusiasts. The park was gazetted in 1979 to protect the water catchment for Tawau and settlements in the area, but not before most of the accessible rainforest had been logged. The remaining primary forest clings to steep-sided ridges that rise to 1310m Mt Magdalena, while much of lowland comprises secondary rainforest. The Sungai Tawau flows through the park, and there are beautiful waterfalls.

There are several trails in the park, ranging from 450m to 17km in length, and this is the reason serious trekkers put Tawau high on their list. Tawau Hills is also a favourite destination for local families on weekends, being only about 40 minutes from Tawau by car or taxi. However, they rarely proceed beyond the picnic tables and for the most part you have the wildlife-rich jungle all to yourself.

In the early mornings and at sunset, several species of hornbills make their way to the tall trees surrounding the clearing around the entrance. Families of gibbons swing high in the branches above the accommodation, loudly vocalising before dawn. Back at ground level, the stream and pond near the hostel and chalet are home to numerous frog and snake species, which emerge at night. As well as being home to gibbons, macaques, red- and white-leaf monkeys, giant tree squirrels, civet cats, tarsiers and six species of hornbills, Tawau Hills is particularly good for torch-lit night walks and, therefore, staying overnight.

Accommodation consists of a single air-conditioned chalet for up to six people and a row of rooms, some air-conditioned, with two or four beds and shared bathrooms. There’s also a hostel on Mt Lucia.

Although you don’t need a guide, Shavez and the team at 1StopBorneo Wildlife can organise recommended multiday wildlife-spotting trips to the park. Guides and permits can also be arranged through Sabah Parks at the park reception.

EATING IN TAWAU: OUR PICKS

Kam Ling Seafood $ One of Tawau’s best seafood restaurants, this Chinese emporium’s specials include black-pepper crab.

Restoran Hajji Tamrin $ Good for inexpensive Malay and Indonesian dishes, including the local speciality, nasi kuning (yellow rice).

Yassin Curry House $ 24-hour joint serving roti canai and curries. Big screen for watching football outside, and air-con seating inside.

Good View Seafood $$ An extensive menu of drunken prawns, king lobster, steamed clams with garlic and kung pao squid.

White-lipped frog, Tawau Hills Park | Salparadis/shutterstock ©

Walks in the Park

There are several trails in the park, ranging from 450m to 17km in length, and this is the reason serious trekkers put Tawau high on their list.

The shortest of the trails, a 450m up-and-down stroll, leads to what was formerly thought to be the world’s tallest tropical tree (88m). It has since been confirmed that several dozen taller trees exist in Danum Valley, but later again, that Tawau Hills can once again lay claim to the tallest, with a 96m giant.

A 2.4km trail leads along the Sungai Tawau to Bukit Gelas Falls, which are perfectly picturesque and fine for a dip. Another track leads 3.2km to a group of sulphur springs; locals believe the lukewarm ubat kulit (skin medication) water has medicinal properties.

To ascend Mt Maria (12.3km) and Mt Magdalena (17km), you need special permission from the rangers, but Mt Lucia (10.5km) is readily accessible and has a hostel on its slopes.

You’re likely to encounter leeches along some of the trails, so bring leech socks if you’re not a fan.

TIPS FOR WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES

Yulinda Wahyuni, an MSc student at University Malaysia Sabah and ecologist with 1StopBorneo Wildlife (@wildlifeclub), shares her tips.

Night Walks

Tawau Hills is ideal for torch-lit encounters with diverse nocturnal wildlife. Few will forget their first encounter with a hand-sized blue tarantula or a secretive pit viper lying in ambush.

Gibbon Alarm Clock

The park is home to several families of gibbons who will ensure you don’t sleep in and miss the forest awakening. First to serenade is the male, then the couple, and finally the accelerating crescendo of the female.

Fruiting Figs

Find out if there’s a fig tree in fruit, as these desirable fruits attract a wide variety of mammals and birds and make wildlife spotting a cinch.

Pygmy Elephant Safari

North of Tawau, the Sabah Softwoods plantation is actively involved in the conservation of three groups of pygmy elephants (around 80 in total) that roam its 660-sq-km territory. Come here with 1StopBorneo Wildlife and go looking for elephants on an exhilarating drive in the back of a pick-up truck. As part of the tour you can assist with planting fruiting trees, such as native figs, that will help re-create a wildlife corridor between Tawau Hills Park and Danum Valley.

TAWAU TREATS

Mee Jawa

This version of Asia’s ubiquitous noodle soup comes with a yellowish broth and bean sprouts, peanuts, bean curd and fish balls.

Gado Gado

Vegetable salad with prawn crackers and peanut sauce. The glory of gado is that every cook puts a different spin on the standard recipe.

Nasi Kuning

Rice cooked with coconut milk and turmeric, often wrapped and served in a banana leaf with deep-fried fish.

Soto Makassar

Buffalo/beef soup from Sulawesi. A dark broth with buffalo/cow blood, some 40 spices, plus offal.

Maliau Basin Conservation AreaTIME FROM SEMPORNA: 5 HRS

Sabah’s Lost World

Encircled by insurmountable cliffs in southwestern Sabah, the Maliau Basin Conservation Area (MBCA) is known as ‘Sabah’s Lost World’, a unique pocket of primeval wilderness virtually untouched for millennia and unknown to the outside world until a few decades ago.

The basin, a 25km-wide bowl-shaped depression covered in rainforest, went unnoticed until a pilot almost crashed into the walls that hem it off in 1947. Yayasan Sabah designated it a conservation area in 1981 but it wasn’t until 1988 that a serious expedition into the basin found a virtually self-contained ecosystem of 12 types of forest and tremendous waterfalls. This is the best place in Borneo to trek through old-growth tropical rainforest. Highlights include idyllic waterfall-fed swimming holes in the Maliau River catchment.

Unlike some other reserves in Sabah’s interior, Maliau Basin can be visited independently with your own transport – the park entrance is just off the Tawau–Keningau highway and the Maliau Basin Studies Centre is a further 25km north on a mostly paved road. There are some short trails and a ‘sky walk’ canopy walkway near the centre, but to trek any further than the immediate surrounds you must have permission from the rangers, hire a guide, have 4WD transport, be self-sufficient with food and camping equipment and have insurance that covers helicopter evacuations. See the website for more information or visit the Maliau Basin Conservation Area Authority in Tawau. Accommodation in the park includes upmarket chalets, basic hostel dorm beds and camping facilities at the Maliau Basin Studies Centre. Trekkers can also stay at the Ginseng and Nepenthes camps deep in the jungle.

Maliau Basin, along with Imbak Canyon, is managed by Yayasan Sabah (Sabah Foundation; yayasansabahgroup.org.my/conservation_management.cfm).

Adventure tour operators in KK can arrange all-inclusive trips, usually a four-day, three-night package. Reliable operators include Sticky Rice Travel, Borneo Eco Tours and Borneo Adventure.

Giluk Falls | Andreas Angkaus/shutterstock ©

An Unforgettable Hike

The Maliau Loop trek will likely be the most memorable hike of your Borneo experience, but it’s not for the faint-hearted. The three- to five-day trek takes in wide swaths of diverse rainforest and four of the Maliau Basin’s waterfalls: Takob Falls, Giluk Falls, the stupendous, seven-tiered Maliau Falls and Ginseng Falls. You’ll be trekking up to 10km per day and must have a good level of fitness and insurance.

MALIAU’S WILDLIFE

The density of the old-growth forest within the basin is striking, as is the variety of wildlife. Eighty species of mammals (and counting) have been recorded here, including clouded leopard, Malayan sun bear, pygmy elephant, Bornean gibbon, red- and silver-leaf monkeys and banteng. That said, you will be in dense primary forest (never having been logged), where wildlife is not easy to spot. You may walk away without seeing anything (unlikely) except for some of Borneo’s most ancient trees, though the night drives around Maliau Basin Studies Centre (MBSC) give you an excellent opportunity to spot nocturnal mammals. During treks you’ll be looking out for langurs (leaf-monkeys), gibbons, birds, frogs and reptiles. Bird-watchers will want to ascend the canopy walkway at dawn.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Kota Kinabalu

Toojou $ This busy flashpackers raises the bar for hostels in KK and the rooftop bar is awesome.

Signel Poshtel $ Spotless and stylish dorms, budget rooms and en suite rooms. Another great flashpackers.

Atkinson Place $ The only guesthouse left on Jln Dewan. Small but spotless budget rooms.

Hyatt Centric $$$ KK’s newest five-star; central location, rooftop pool and restaurant.

Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

Bunga Raya Island Resort $$$ Well-spaced villas and a plunge pool overlooking a lovely beach.

Manukan Island Resort $$$ Resort with restaurant, pool, tennis courts and stylish Bali-chic villas.

Kota Belud

Dragon Pearl Beach Resort $ Budget resort with beachside huts, longhouse replica, shared bathrooms.

Bigfin Beach Resort $$$ Comfortable en suite rooms, restaurant, dive packages. Access is by boat.

Kudat & Tip of Borneo

Tampat Do Aman $ Variety of rooms including Rungus longhouse and bamboo huts and en suite cabins.

Tommy’s Place $$ Comfortable rooms with aircon across from the beach; surfboard and SUP hire.

Hibiscus Villa Borneo $$$ Luxury three-bedroom villa on a private beach with infinity pool. Also available are two one-bedroom chalets.

Tempurung

Naga Puri $ Rustic, budget place right on the beach; simple rooms and helpful owner.

Tempurung Seaside Lodge $$ Serene beachfront lodge with a castaway feel.

Pulau Tiga

Borneo Eagle Resort $$$ Luxury beachfront resort with swimming pool and spacious villas.

Pulau Labuan

Palm Beach Resort & Spa $$ Beachfront resort at northern tip with pool and playground; great for families.

Tiara Labuan $$ An island favourite at Tanjung Batu with pool, pub and island shuttles.

Kinabalu Park & Surrounds

J Residence $ Close to park entrance, tasteful mountainside accommodation and valley views.

Mountain Valley Resort $$ Modernised hill station mansion positioned high on a ridge with sweeping views.

Ayana Holiday Resort $$ Stylish rooms set in a steep, landscaped garden with valley views.

Kundasang Guesthouse $$ Friendly guesthouse with small restaurant and great views of Mt Kinabalu. Suitable for families.

Pendant Hut $$$ Mountain Torq’s basic on-mountain accommodation for via ferrata climbers.

Sutera Sanctuary Lodges $$$ On and at the base of the mountain are several lodges, from hostels to comfortable private cabins.

Sandakan

Sandakan Backpackers $ Clean, traveller-friendly hostel with sea views and rooftop chillout area.

Hotel Elopura $$ Arty mid-ranger on waterfront square; rooftop and ground-floor cafes.

Hotel Sabah $$$ Elegant hotel with well-appointed rooms, gardens, pool and restaurants.

Sepilok

Sepilok B&B $$ Dorms, lodge rooms and camping near the Rainforest Discovery Centre.

Sepilok Nature Resort $$ Wood-accented chalets around an ornamental lake with a recommended bistro and bar.

Sepilok Jungle Resort $$ Good-value rooms with bird-filled gardens, swimming pools and restaurant.

Sepilok Forest Edge Resort $$$ Private chalets set within manicured lawns, plunge pool and recommended restaurant, the Nest.

Sungai Kinabatangan

Sukau Backpackers B&B $ Tidy ensuite rooms and the option to book and pay for tours as you go.

Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge $$ Luxury chalets connected by shady raised walkways. Sukau.

Nature Lodge Kinabatangan $$ Eco-conscious lodge run by River Junkie with dorm-style huts and twin-bed chalets. Bilit.

Borneo Natural Sakau Bilit Resort $$ Riverfront jungle lodge with cosy air-con cottages.

Sukau Rainforest Lodge $$$ The most upscale digs on the river with beautifully appointed split-level rooms.

Lahad Datu

Bike & Tours B&B $$ Run by a Swiss/Malay couple, four rooms are homey and comfortable. Tours available.

Hotel De Leon $$ Lahad Datu’s plushest option with restaurant and well-kept rooms.

Danum Valley

Danum Valley Field Centre $$ Accommodation in four categories: hostel, resthouse, VIP and camping.

Borneo Rainforest Lodge $$$ Set beside the Danum River, this lodge combines adventure with five-star luxury.

Tabin Wildlife Reserve

Tabin Wildlife Resort $$$ An attractive retreat with upscale, comfortable chalets with balconies. Meals and tours are included.

Deramakot Forest Reserve

Deramakot Forest Reserve $$$ Chalets and hostel buildings with dorms, plus a canteen. Meals and tours included.

Imbak Canyon

Imbak Canyon Studies Centre $$$ Hostel, resthouse and camping in central compound. Meals and tours included in package.

Semporna & the Archipelago

Kuree Hut $ Back from the Semporna waterfront, this is a popular budget guesthouse with breakfast.

Mabul Backpackers $ Basic but clean dorms and budget rooms overwater at southern end of the island.

Scuba Junkie Mabul Beach Resort $$ Eco-conscious and highly-rated dive resort with an international crowd.

Seaventures Dive Resort $$ Former oil rig accommodation platform offshore from Mabul on its own house reef.

Sipadan Inn $$ Simple but tidy rooms on Semporna waterfront. Sipadan Inn 2 has pricier sea-view rooms.

Lato Lato Resort $$ Overwater budget resort, not connected to any island, one of several stilt resorts north of Pulau Bum Bum.

Borneo Divers Mabul Resort $$$ Timber chalets encircle a pool and gardens; long private jetty extends out front to the dive centre.

Sipadan Kapalai Dive Resort $$$ Sumptuous, secluded water village on its own private sandbar across from Mabul.

Pom Pom Island Resort $$$ Romantic timber-accented villas on stilts with private sundecks and large bath.

Tawau

City Garden Hotel $ Spotless rooms with powerful showers, plus city-centre location opposite Tawau’s best seafood restaurants.

Tawau Hills Park Accommodation $$ A single en suite chalet plus hostel accommodation consisting of 10 private rooms (five with air-con). On-site canteen.

Rooms $$ Not central, but a small, squeaky-clean hotel with large, comfy beds and helpful staff. The neighbourhood has restaurants.

Maliau Basin Conservation Area

Maliau Basin Studies Centre $$$ Upscale rooms, resthouse, dorm and camping at park headquarters.

Danum Valley | Nokuro/shutterstock ©

Sarawak

MULTICULTURAL RICHES AND BIODIVERSE RAINFORESTS

A dazzling array of cultures – indigenous, Chinese, Malay and Indian – flourish alongside primordial rainforests, the habitat of orangutans, proboscis monkeys and hornbills, in Malaysia’s largest state.

Gunung Mulu National Park | Lukas_Vejrik/shutterstock ©

Home to 2.6 million people and covering 124,450 sq km, Sarawak is all about natural wonders and ethnic diversity. This is Malaysia’s most culturally varied state, home to Malays, Chinese, Indians and scores of Dayaks, the term used for the indigenous tribal people of Borneo.

Sarawak also has a fascinating history that you can learn all about in Kuching, Sarawak’s capital and most dynamic city. British adventurer James Brooke arrived here in 1841, helped the local viceroy quell a rebellion, and was installed as the first white raja. His family would rule Sarawak for over a century.

Lindsay Fegent-Brown/lonely planet ©

From Kuching, make day trips to national parks and nature reserves – where you can spot orangutans, rare frogs and dolphins – then return in the evening for a scrumptious meal and a stroll along the twinkling riverfront.

Other memorable adventures include riding a ‘flying coffin’ riverboat up the mighty Batang Rajang from Kapit to Balaga, or flying into Gunung Mulu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to trek to unfathomably vast, bat- and swiftlet-filled caves and extraordinary rock formations.

High in the cool valleys and mountains of the Kelabit Highlands, you can chill while snacking on the world’s sweetest pineapples or trek through the rainforest from longhouse to longhouse. Here, like everywhere else in Sarawak, you’ll encounter warm, friendly locals with a great sense of humour who are delightful hosts.

THE MAIN AREAS

KUCHING

Sarawak’s historic riverside capital.

BATANG RAJANG

A mighty river flowing deep from Sarawak.

MIRI

Coastal city, and gateway to the interior.

GUNUNG MULU NATIONAL PARK

Caves, rainforest and soaring peaks.

KELABIT HIGHLANDS

Longhouses, treks and tribal culture.

Find Your Way

Sarawak, about 1200km from west to east along the Pan-Borneo Hwy, covers almost as much territory as the entirety of Peninsular Malaysia (West Malaysia). For vast areas of wilderness, head inland.

Plan Your Days

Kuching makes an excellent base for day trips to national parks, nature reserves and Dayak villages, but there’s plenty to do in the state’s other cities. For adventure, head into the interior.

Fort Margherita | David Evison/shutterstock ©

Three Days in & Around Kuching

• Start in Kuching by visiting the Borneo Cultures Museum and taking a walk from the Old Court House Complex via Old Chinatown to New Chinatown, circling back along the riverfront promenade.

• On day two make an early start for Bako National Park; stay one night here if you’d like to join a night walk.

• Return to Kuching early on day three. Visit Fort Margherita, then after lunch drive to the Semenggoh Nature Reserve to see orangutans. Back in Kuching, dine on delicious food in its hawker centres.

A Weeklong Stay

• Enjoy all the delights of Kuching for a few days, then spend a night on the Santubong Peninsula from where you can go dolphin spotting in the Kuching Wetlands National Park.

• Fly to Gunung Mulu National Park, spending your first afternoon exploring the Deer Cave. The next morning visit the Wind Cave, take the Fast Lane Tour in the afternoon, and end the day with a night walk after dark.

• On your last morning in Mulu, wobble along the 25m-high Mulu Canopy Skywalk. Before going home, shop for tribal handicrafts in Miri.

A Month in Sarawak

• If you’ve got more than a week, you can venture out west of Kuching to Tanjung Datu National Park or spend more time at Gunung Mulu National Park, perhaps tackling The Pinnacles on a three-day trek.

• A journey up the mighty Batang Rajang will see you start in the bustling port of Sibu before bussing it upriver to the friendly outpost of Kapit. From here, ride the thrilling express boat to the remote outpost of Belaga.

• Alternatively, fly to the Kelabit Highlands to experience wonderful homestays and multiday jungle treks.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

The monsoon season lasts from November to February or March, though rain is frequent year-round. High season is July and August.

JANUARY OR FEBRUARY

Chinese New Year brings colourful festivities to Chinese temples across Sarawak.

Ajeeb Rasli/shutterstock ©

MARCH OR APRIL

The Melanau festival of Kaul celebrates the end of the monsoon season with boat races and other activities around Mukah.

muhd fuad abd rahim/shutterstock ©

JUNE

Sarawak’s indigenous groups come together to celebrate Gawai Dayak; the renowned Rainforest World Music Festival features exquisite music.

iPortret/shutterstock ©

JULY

Miri hosts the Borneo Jazz Festival, and Sibu has the Borneo Cultural Festival. The Bario Food & Cultural Festival celebrates Kelabit traditions.

naipung/shutterstock ©

AUGUST

The Kuching Food Festival brings concerts, performances, exhibitions and a giant food fair to Sarawak’s capital.

I Love Drones/shutterstock ©

OCTOBER

Prime festival time in Kuching, with the month-long What About Kuching (WAK) and the Siniawan Country Music Festival.

yanatul/shutterstock ©

NOVEMBER

Crowds line the Kuching riverfront for the Sarawak Dragon Boat Regatta; the Miri Country Music Fest grooves to rural American harmonies.

BaniHasyim/shutterstock ©

Kuching

MUSEUMS | CUISINE | RIVERSIDE SETTING

Hugging the curves of the languid Sungai Sarawak, Kuching is one of Southeast Asia’s most attractive, yet under-the-radar destinations. Sarawak’s capital for two centuries and an important trading port, Kuching continues to be a gateway to both jungle and sea, making it an excellent base for trips to nearby national parks. But it’s the recent opening of the splendid Borneo Cultures Museum that now makes the city unmissable.

Kuching’s delicious culinary scene has also earned it a place as a UNESCO-backed Creative City of Gastronomy. When you’re not slurping Sarawak laksa or sampling Dayak delights, other attractions include an energetic collage of dragon-decorated Chinese temples, heritage shophouses, sophisticated nightlife and a riverfront esplanade that’s perfect for a romantic evening stroll. For history buffs, museums and walking tours present the incredible story of the Brooke family, the white rajas who ruled Sarawak for over a century.

SIGHTS

1  Cat Museum

2  Satok Suspension Bridge

EATING

3  AwahCafe

4  Food Court Gerai AnekaRasa

5  Grandma Handmade Noodle Bak Kut Teh

6  Rock Road Seafood Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

7  Earthlings

SHOPPING

8  Medan Niaga Satok

GETTING AROUND

It’s easy to walk between most sights in downtown Kuching. Bow-steered wooden boats known as tambang shuttle passengers back and forth across Sungai Sarawak for RM1 per trip. The city doesn’t have much of a public transport system. Instead, use taxi apps – the most popular one is Grab as its drivers are vetted. Self-drive is also available with both international and local car-rental companies. Note that traffic in downtown Kuching can be a challenge and it can get busy on the way to and from the airport.

Explore the North Bank

State Assembly, Astana and Brooke-era fort

To get to the north bank of Sungai Sarawak, you can either take a tambang (boat) or walk across the 335m-long Darul Hana Bridge. Meaning ‘home of peace and tranquillity’ in Arabic, the bridge’s S-shaped walkway and two support masts, inclining in opposite directions, are symbolic of the harmonious balance between the diverse peoples who live together in Sarawak. The two 50m-high towers, with stylised hornbills at the top, are also reminiscent of traditional Bidayuh bamboo bridges. The bridge provides a prime view of a couple of key buildings. On one side is the Sarawak State Assembly topped with a soaring golden roof, said to resemble either a payung (umbrella) or a terendak (Melanau sunhat). On the other – and conveniently labelled in giant white letters – is the Astana (‘palace’) and its manicured gardens. Built by Charles Brooke in 1870, and once known as Government House, it was used by the Brookes until 1941 and is now the official residence of Sarawak’s governor.

Between the two is Pengakalan Sapi, a landscaped park at the northern anchorage of Darul Hana Bridge.

About 400m north is the peaceful Orchid Garden, home to 100 species including the Normah orchid, Sarawak’s state flower, which grows inside the cooled greenhouse. It’s closed Mondays.

Follow the riverside walkway past a new landmark in 2023, a 99m-tall flagpole and nearby teahouse in landscaped grounds. Steps lead up to snow-white Fort Margherita, home to a museum detailing the remarkable story of the white rajas of Sarawak with fascinating artefacts, several donated by the Brooke family. Climb the spiral staircase up three storeys to the crenellated roof, a great place to take in panoramic views of Sungai Sarawak and the city centre.

Just east of the fort, Kampung Boyan is a sedate Malay kampung (village) filled with joyously colourful houses and a profusion of flowering plants. A world away from the glitz and bustle of downtown Kuching, its waterfront features two roofed hawker centres: Food Court @ Permaidani Boyan and, further east, Eden’s Food Court.

TOP TIP

Head to the Darul Hana Bridge at 8.30pm and 9.30pm to watch the Musical Fountain in the Sungai Sarawak play for 15 minutes in a fusion of coloured lights, music and water. There’s another show at 10.30pm, Friday to Sunday.

FORT MARGHERITA

Built by the second white raja Charles Brooke in 1879 to protect Kuching against surprise attacks by pirates, hilltop Fort Margherita is named after Brooke’s wife, Ranee Margaret. Inspired by an English Renaissance castle, it manages to feel both medieval European and tropical.

Now a museum, the fort’s exhibits were prepared jointly by the Brooke Trust and the Sarawak Museum. The history they tell, with great nuance, is a fascinating counter-narrative to the more usual story of colonial exploitation and postcolonial resentment. In fact, some locals say that Sarawak was never colonised because the Brookes, as they see it, were just another kind (albeit pale) of Sarawakian.

EATING IN KUCHING: DAYAK CUISINE

Lepau $$ Organic ingredients feature at this restaurant. Try midin ferns, cangkuk manis (stir-fried greens) and bamboo chicken.

Lamin $$ The Telang Usan Hotel’s in-house restaurant is deservedly highly rated by locals for its outstanding Dayak cuisine.

Pinggai Cafe $$ Dishes at this colourfully decorated cafe include Dayak char siew (barbecued pork), rice and stir-fried ferns.

AwahCafe $$ Try the tempoyak pork soup and pansuh (bamboo-cooked) dishes. About 10 minutes’ drive south of the centre.

TOP SIGHT

Borneo Cultures Museum

The Borneo Cultures Museum (BCM) is Malaysia’s top cultural storehouse. Sarawak’s rich natural world and diverse cultures are elegantly presented in state-of-the-art displays at this outstanding museum housed in a golden-roofed building, which opened in 2022. Plan on at least a couple of hours to do justice to the five floors of galleries.

Photopankpl/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for prices and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

Bidayu baruk

Kelirieng (burial poles)

Deep Skull fragments

Pua kumbu

Kayan masks

The Main Galleries

Start on Level 5 from where you can admire the views across the city centre from the north and south windows. Level 5’s Objects of Desire gallery showcases precious artefacts from the museum’s vast collection gathered over 150 years. These range from an intricately carved hornbill’s casque (a type of ivory known as golden jade) to beautifully patterned pua kumbu (Iban blankets or coverlets) and colourful Kayan masks.

Level 4’s Time Changes gallery covers Borneo’s pre-history and history, including cultural contact with Hindu-Buddhist empires such as Sumatra-based Srivijaya; and the social, economic and religious changes during the century of Brooke rule. A star exhibit is pieces of a 37,000-year-old cranium, known as ‘Deep Skull’, found at Niah Caves in 1958.

Level 3’s In Harmony With Nature gallery presents Sarawak’s coastal, rainforest and highland environments, the indigenous groups that inhabit them and the importance of the natural world in their lives and cosmologies. Step inside a full-scale Bidayuh baruk (gathering hall of a longhouse community) and walk around replicas of 200-year-old kelirieng (burial poles) made from carved belian (ironwood) – the originals were located at longhouses around Belaga. Also look out for the animated panels depicting the Legend of Puteri Santubong.

On Level 2 is an excellent Children’s Gallery where kids can have fun learning about Sarawak’s rivers, and the Arts & Crafts Gallery for temporary exhibitions and events.

Traditional wedding clothing | Danny Ye/shutterstock ©

Old Sarawak Museum & Garden

A pedestrian bridge connects the BCM with the Old Sarawak Museum Building, only accessible by daily tours at 10.30am and 2.30pm. This elegant Queen Anne Revivalist–style building dates from 1891 when the museum was established by Raja Charles Brooke to exhibit indigenous handicrafts and wildlife specimens. Emptied of its contents, the building’s principal attractions are its four wall murals painted by Kenyah Lepo’ Tau artists from Long Nawang, Kalimantan from 1958 to 1960. Information panels provide background details on these intricate and symbolic artworks.

The building overlooks landscaped gardens that are peppered with tropical flowers and fountains, and include the filigree ironwork of the 1894 Plant House, a space used for occasional music performances.

The Muslim World

Also part of the BCM campus is the Islamic Heritage Museum, which offers an introduction to Malay Muslim culture and its long ties with the Muslim heartland far to the west. Displays range from Bornean-Malay architecture, musical instruments and woodcarvings to Arabic calligraphy and astrolabes of the sort that helped Arab mariners travel this far east.

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

Downhill to the north of the Old Sarawak Museum Building is the Natural History Museum, built in 1908 and adorned with a large model of Raja Brooke’s birdwing butterfly. It houses stuffed birds, crocodile skeletons, fish models and more. The most interesting exhibits are the pair of elephant skulls painted by Kenyah Lepo’ Tau artists.

TOP TIPS

• Check Facebook and Instagram for temporary exhibitions, free talks and musical events.

• On Level 5 there’s a booth where you can take a photo of yourself with a traditional tattoo design overlaid on part of your body.

• Sign up for free tours of the Old Sarawak Museum Building at the Borneo Cultures Museum’s front desk at least 15 minutes before they start at 10.30am and 2.30pm.

• The museum restaurant has local and Western cuisine. Cheaper, and served by the same kitchen, is the self-service canteen specialising in local noodle and rice dishes.

A RIVERSIDE STROLL

The banks of Sungai Sarawak in central Kuching are lined with a lovely riverfront promenade. This walk is especially pleasant at sunset when lights from the buildings and the footbridge create beautiful reflections in the water. Start at the colourfully decorated 1 Tua Pek Kong Temple. Diagonally across the intersection is the 2 Chinese History Museum. Heading west along the promenade you’ll pass the 1930 Sarawak Steamship Building, now home to the 3 Sarawak Craft Council. Next along the riverside is the white-painted 4 Square Tower, built in 1879 to guard the city from attack. Over the past century the structure has served as a prison, mess and dance hall; it now hosts a restaurant. Nearby, pause for a cool refreshment at the hugely popular 5 Gula Apong Ice Cream stall. Walk across 6 Darul Hana Bridge. On the horizon to the north is the UFO-shaped Kuching North City Hall and Gunung Santubong (810m), and to the west, Gunung Serapi (910m). Closer is the white-washed 7 Astana, the official residence of Sarawak’s governor.

Exit the bridge to the right, heading east along the promenade as it runs beneath the golden-roofed 8 Sarawak State Assembly. Climb the steps to the 99m-tall 9 flagpole, the tallest such pole in Southeast Asia. Continue uphill to 10 Fort Margherita. Head back downhill to the pretty Malay village 11 Kampung Boyan for refreshments at a 12 riverside food court. Return to the south bank by hopping on a tambang (boat) and sailing across the river to where you started.

KEK LAPIS AT MAIN BAZAAR

The row of old Chinese shophouses facing the Riverfront Promenade is known as Main Bazaar. Its five-foot way sheltering shoppers from the rain, the street is chock-full of handicrafts shops. Most stock little more than T-shirts and kitschy-cute cat souvenirs, while several places sell a Sarawak cake speciality: colourfully striped kek lapis.

Made with wheat flour, egg, prodigious quantities of butter or margarine, and flavourings such as melon, blueberry or pandan leaves, kek lapis are prepared one layer at a time. Because each layer – there can be 30 or more – takes five or six minutes to gently bake to perfection, a single cake can take up to five hours from start to finish.

Culture at the Court House

Museums, cafes and Brooke-era ghosts

Built in 1871 to serve as the seat of Sarawak’s government, the handsome Old Court House Complex is a lovely spot to wander around through peaceful, colonnaded verandahs, or enjoy a meal or a drink in an upscale restaurant or bar.

The fascinating Ranee Museum focuses on the fascinating life of Ranee Margaret of Sarawak. Born Margaret Alice Lili de Windt in Paris in 1849, at age 19 she married Sir Charles Brooke, the second white raja, launching her on a wholly unexpected life trajectory that included social prominence in both Kuching and London, recognition for her support of Sarawakian arts and crafts, and the death of three of her children in a single week in 1873. The exhibits, prepared by the Brooke Trust (now run by the family’s sixth generation), also take a fascinating look at mid-19th to early-20th-century Sarawak. A joint ticket for both here and Fort Margherita saves you some money.

Also sharing a hall in the complex are Kuching’s Visitors Information Centre and the National Park Office, which can provide information on Sarawak’s many parks and reserves and can help book in-park accommodation. It’s also a handy place to pre-register online for visits to the national parks.

Out front on the riverside of the complex stands the Charles Brooke Memorial, a 6m-high lopped-off obelisk erected in 1924 to honour the second white raja. Around the base, bronze reliefs portray the four Sarawakian ‘races’ (as they were conceived of at the time): Malay, Dayak, Kayan and Chinese.

EATING IN KUCHING: SLURPING SARAWAK LAKSA

Choon Hui Café $ Old-school kopitiam (coffee shop) serving a delicious bowl of laksa; also try its popiah (spring rolls).

Chong Choon Cafe $ Under a large verandah and cooled by helicopter fans.

Miu Xin Laksa @ Lau Ya Keng Foodcourt $ Try the Sarawak laksa stall at this storied Jln Carpenter hawker collective.

Teresa Laksa $ A rare opportunity for laksa at night. Find Teresa’s stall in the apartment complex opposite the Hilton.

SIGHTS

1  Cat Column

2  Cat Fountain

3  Great Cat of Kuching

4  Kampung Boyan

5  The Everlasting Shape of Joy

6  The Horse Race

7  Tun Jugah Museum & Gallery

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

8  CPH Travel

9  elang Usan Travel & Tours

EATING

10  Chong Choon Cafe

11  Choon Hui Cafe

12  Eden’s Food Court

13  Food Court @ Permaidani Boyan

14  Junk

See 9  Lamin

15  Lepau

16  Little Hainan

17  Petanak Central Market & Hawker Centre

18  Teresa Laksa

19  Top Spot Food Court

20  Ze Kiosk

21  Zinc

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

22  Bear Garden

23  Jing-Si Books & Cafe

24  Southside

SHOPPING

25  Tanoti

Around Padang Merdeka

Green central square

Just south of the Old Court House Complex, walking through the air-conditioned Plaza Merdeka mall, will take you to Padang Merdeka (Independence Sq), used as far back as the Brooke era for official ceremonies. The monumental kapok tree on the east side of the square is almost 200 years old.

On its northeastern edge is the Anglican St Thomas’s Cathedral (built 1956; open for services), while tucked away at the top of the hill is Kuching’s oldest building, the white Bishop’s House (Rumah Bishop), built in 1849 with admirable solidness by Theodore Auguste Stahl, a German shipwright.

Overlooking Padang Merdeka’s southwest corner is the Songket & Keringkam Gallery a showroom for the traditional Malay craft of embroidery used for songket (large pieces of woven cloth) and keringkam (silk headscarves inlaid with gold thread).

Wander Through Old Chinatown

Shophouses, temples, cafes and bars

To learn about how the Chinese came to Sarawak drop by the riverside Chinese History Museum, housed in the century-old Chinese Court building. It provides an excellent introduction to the nine major Chinese communities – each with its own dialect, temples and cuisine – who began settling in Sarawak in around 1830.

Opposite the museum is the Tua Pek Kong Temple. Its retaining wall is decorated with haut-relief images of coloured dragons, and there’s an equally richly decorated interior.

Lined with evocative colonial-era shophouses and home to several vibrantly decorated Chinese temples, Jln Carpenter (as locals sometimes refer to the whole area) is the heart of Kuching’s Old Chinatown. At the street’s eastern end, Hong San Si Temple is thought to date to around 1840. This fine Hokkien temple, its roofline punctuated with intricate ceramic dragons, is ornamented with elaborate wood and stone carvings, a profusion of hanging red lanterns and twinkling oil lamps whose spell is accentuated by the odour of incense.

It’s easy to miss Hin Ho Bio (known in Mandarin as Tian Hou Temple), tucked away on the roof of the Kuching Hainan Association. Go up the staircase to the top floor and you’ll come to a vivid shrine that’s dedicated to the Queen of Heaven. Panoramic views over the rooftops take in Old Chinatown and the Sarawak State Assembly.

Hiang Thian Siang Ti Temple, rebuilt shortly after the fire of 1884, serves the Teochew congregation as a shrine to the Deity of the North. Inside you’ll find rich decoration in red and gold, including gilded altars, flickering oil lamps, a tiger and a dragon made of colourful tiles, and lots of hanging lanterns. Across the street, the temple’s opera house (occasionally used to stage performances) is home to the Lau Ya Keng hawker centre.

WHERE TO SHOP IN KUCHING

Borneo Cultures Museum

The museum’s shop offers a well-curated selection of quality handicrafts, souvenirs and original artworks.

Juliana Native Handwork

Top-quality Bidayuh beadwork, Penan rattan, Iban textiles and other Sarawak crafts.

Kelvin Antiques Shop

Amid the touristy tat of Main Bazaar, this place stands out with its selection of Borneo tribal arts, both ancient and modern.

Plaza Merdeka

At this centrally located mall, head to the basement to buy a local SIM card from the main telecom operators.

Tanoti

As well as their own designs of songket, Tanoti sells a fab range of woven craft goods at fair-trade prices.

EATING IN KUCHING: BEST SEAFOOD

Top Spot Food Court $$ On the roof of a parking garage is this buzzing collection of stalls specialising in seafood – a great dining night out.

Open-Air Market $ Central Kuching hawker centre, with Chinese, Malay (halal) and seafood sections.

Food Court Gerai AnekaRasa $$ Beside the Satok Suspension Bridge, this nighttime hawkers market has alfresco seafood.

Rock Road Seafood Restaurant $$ Long established and famous for its wide-ranging seafood menu. Handpick your fish from tanks.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Chinese History Museum

2  Fort Margherita

3  Old Court House Complex

SIGHTS

4  Bishop’s House

5  Charles Brooke Memorial

6  Darul Hana Musical Fountain

7  Flagpole

8  Hiang Thian Siang Ti Temple

9  Hin Ho Bio

10  Hong San Si Temple

11  I Heart Kuching

12  Kapok Tree

13  Kucing Kucing

14  Masjid India

15  Masjid India Bandar Kuching

16  Padang Merdeka

17  Ranee Museum

18  Sarawak Steamship Building

19  Songket & Keringkam Gallery

20  Square Tower

21  St Thomas’s Cathedral

22  The Birth of the Labour Frontier

23  The Early Mercers

24  The Exchange & The Abandoned Craftmanship

25  The Symphony of the Tinsmiths

26  Tua Pek Kong Temple

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

27  Borneo Adventure

28  Borneo Experiences

29  Brooke Heritage Walking Tour

30  Paradesa Borneo

EATING

31  Ceylonese

32  Commons

33  Gula Apong Ice Cream

34  Indah House

35  Kantin at the Granary

36  Lau Ya Keng Food Court

See 36  Miu Xin Laksa @ Lau Ya Keng Foodcourt

37  Nam Joo

38  Open-Air Market

39  Pinggai Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

40  Black Bean Coffee & Tea Company

41  Drunk Monkey Old Street Bar

42  Fairland Hidden Bar

SHOPPING

43  Jalan India

44  Juliana Native Handwork

45  Kelvin Antiques Shop

46  Main Bazaar

47  Plaza Merdeka

48  Sarawak Craft Council

INFORMATION

49  National Park Office

50  Visitors Information Centre

Hiang Thian Siang Ti Temple | Alen thien/shutterstock ©

KUCHING’S TOP MURALIST

Since 2016 Leonard Siaw has been painting giant murals across Kuching.

@leonardsiawart_

The Birth of the Labour Frontier

On an alley off Upper Jln China, this depicts the hardship of workers at the Kuching wharf when Sarawak was a British colony.

The Symphony of the Tinsmiths

At the riverside end of Jln China, the images here are of the metalworkers you’ll still find working along the street.

The Exchange & The Abandoned Craftmanship

Side-by-side murals on Jln Carpenter: a wooden clog maker, and trade between Dyaks and Chinese over birds nests.

I Heart Kuching

On Jln Pearl, Emelyne Camen Ho and her cat – she wrote a book The Journey of Becoming Fearless about overcoming a major illness.

Explore Little India

From retail to religion

Kuching’s main bazaar for imported textiles, brassware and household goods, pedestrianised (and rain-shaded) Jalan India remains an exuberant retail thoroughfare. This is the place to come for inexpensive fabrics and clothing, including T-shirts whose patriotic designs and slogans are worn by locals to express their pride in Sarawak’s unique identity. At the Jln Barrack end of the street is one of Leonard Siaw’s giant murals, The Early Mercers – a portrait of two pioneering textile traders from Kuching in the 1930s.

Turn off Jln India (between No 37 and No 39A) or waterfront Jln Gambier (between the spice and foodstuffs shops at No 27 and No 28) onto tiny Indian Mosque La (Lg Sempit) and you enter another world. About halfway along stands the entrance to Masjid India, Kuching’s oldest mosque, a modest structure built of belian (ironwood) in 1863 by Muslim traders from Tamil Nadu. Notable for its simplicity, it’s an island of peace and cooling shade in the middle of Kuching’s commercial hullabaloo. It’s been closed since 2019 when rituals and prayers were transferred to the new ‘floating’ Masjid India Bandar Kuching, on the waterfront just across from Jln Gambier, but you can glimpse the old mosque’s courtyard through a grate between 24 and 25A Jln Gambier. There are plans to refurbish the complex.

From the western end of Jln India, walk southwest along Jln Market for a block and you’ll get to the Brooke Dockyard Industrial Heritage Museum, housed in Malaysia’s oldest shipyard and dry dock. Established by Sarawak’s Public Works Department in 1912, the Brooke Dockyard is being transformed into a museum showcasing Sarawak’s industrial heritage and is set to open in 2024. Nearby is the golden-domed Kuching Mosque, the state mosque until a larger one was built in 1990 at Petra Jaya.

EATING IN KUCHING: TASTY LOCAL DISHES

Ceylonese $ Indian and Sri Lankan food including a three-cheese naan, and appam – crispy coconut-milk pancakes, perfect for breakfast.

Little Hainan $$ Atmospherically decorated Chinese cafe in New Chinatown. A great choice for chicken rice.

Ze Kiosk $ Riverside promenade kiosk specialising in satay. The set menus come with pandan-dyed rice and bread. Live music.

Nam Joo $$ Old store creatively transformed into a shabby-chic cafe serving tasty dishes including crispy fried chicken with spicy sauce.

KUCHING’S BEST TOURS & CLASSES

Brooke Heritage Walking Tour

The Brooke Trust run guided tours of Kuching, starting from the Ranee Museum, that present the fascinating history of the white rajas.

Flavours of Kuching

Eat your way around the city on this culinary walking tour run by Telang Usan Travel & Tours (telangusan.com).

Indah House

When you join their cooking class you will shop in the market, then learn how to prepare dishes such as Sarawak laksa.

Juliana Native Handwork

Virtuoso bead artist Juliana offers workshops in Bidayuh beading at her shop on Jln Carpenter.

Paradesa Borneo

Its cycling tours have itineraries that include visits to various kampung (villages) and a cooking class.

Walk Through New Chinatown

Shophouses and murals

New Chinatown dates to the 1920s and was initially funded with money from the rubber boom. It stretches 1.5km along Jln Padungan from Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman east to the Great Cat of Kuching, and is lined with colourful shophouses, ornately decorated with bas-reliefs, that shelter Chinese-owned businesses, including a good selection of cafes, bars and restaurants.

The muralist Leonard Siaw has been commissioned to decorate the district’s walls with seven giant murals, each highlighting New Chinatown’s culture and history. At the time of research, two had been completed: The Everlasting Shape of Joy of an old lady making ang ku kueh, red-coloured tortoise-shaped pastries that symbolise longevity and good fortune; and The Horse Race, a frenetic depiction of jockeys inspired by the horse racetrack that was located around Jln Padungan during the early Brooke era.

EATING IN KUCHING: DINING IN STYLE

Commons $$$ Western and Asian dishes, plus delicious European cakes, are served in sleek, airy surrounds at the Old Court House.

Junk $$ Filled to the brim with antiques, this place cooks up generous Western dinners, including pasta, pizza and steak.

Zinc $$$ Sophisticated restaurant and bar featuring upscale Western and Mediterranean-fusion dishes and wines.

Kantin at the Granary $$ An old granary renovated with minimalist flair. The menu features both local and international dishes.

BEST KUCHING-BASED TOUR COMPANIES

Borneo Adventure

Its award-winning tours (eg to the Batang Ai region) set the industry standard and benefit Sarawak’s indigenous peoples.

Borneo Experiences

Runs outings to national parks and treks to a mountaintop Bidayuh ‘village in the clouds’.

CPH Travel

A long-established agency offering well-regarded longhouse visits, kayaking, cycling and national park tours, including Pulau Satang.

Paradesa Bor neo

Best known for its bike tours, including day trips, mountain biking and multiday safaris.

Telang Usan Travel & Tours

A veteran Kenyah-owned agency offering tours around western Sarawak. For details, see tours.telangusan.com.

Kitschy Kuching Kitties

It’s raining cats

In Bahasa Malaysia, kucing (pronounced the same as Kuching) means ‘cat’, something the city has milked for all it’s worth, erecting a number of marvellously kitschy cat statues.

On a triangular traffic island on Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman the Cat Fountain is an assemblage of polychrome cats who pose and preen amid the passing cars.

A few hundred metres west, on the Riverfront Promenade, stands perhaps the most tasteful of the statues, Kucing Kucing, Gaye Porter’s life-size bronze sculpture of playful felines cavorting on the grass; look for it on the lawn outside James Brooke Bistro & Café.

The Cat Column, on a roundabout near the western end of Jln Padungan (at Jln Chan Chin Ann), features four cats around the bottom and four hibiscus flowers near the top.

At the far eastern end of Jln Padungan, the Great Cat of Kuching is a 2.5m-high white pussycat with blue eyes and wire whiskers. Perched just outside the Chinese ceremonial gate, it’s dressed up in a festive seasonal costume whenever a major holiday (eg Diwali) comes around.

Serious fans of felines and kitty kitsch will want to cross the Sungai Sarawak to visit Kuching North City Hall. The hilltop building’s ground floor is home to the Cat Museum, which isstacked with hundreds of entertaining, surprising and bizarre cat figurines and artworks. Visitors can enlighten themselves on subjects such as ‘Cats in Malay Society’ and ‘Cats in Chinese Art’ and ‘Cats in Film’. If nothing else, the view from outside the city hall is also pretty impressive.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Darul Hana Bridge

2  Old Sarawak Museum Building

SIGHTS

3  Astana

4  Borneo Cultures Museum

5  Brooke Dockyard Industrial Heritage Museum

6  Islamic Heritage Museum

7  Kuching Mosque

8  Museum Garden

9  Natural History Museum

10  Orchid Garden

11  Pengakalan Sapi

12  Plant House

13  Sarawak State Assembly

EATING

See 4  Borneo Cultures Museum Canteen

See 4  Borneo Cultures Museum Restaurant

SARAWAKIAN CRAFTS

The indigenous peoples of Sarawak produce beautiful craft objects, including intricate jewellery and beadwork (some made by loom beading); batik and ikat textiles; rattan (rotan) bags, baskets and mats, some woven by the Penan; ceramics; and hats such as the Melanau terendak, with its distinctive black and red triangles, and the Orang Ulu raong, in red and tan.

The not-for-profit Sarawak Craft Council was founded in 1957 and has a gallery on the Kuching waterfront in the historic Sarawak Steamship Building (1930), which displays and sells authentic Sarawakian handicrafts. The gallery is open until 5pm; adjacent privately owned crafts kiosks stay open until 9pm. The council’s website (sarawakhandicraft.com.my) features beautiful photos.

Watch Artisans Create Traditional Textiles

Master weavers in action

A charitable foundation sponsors the excellent exhibits at the Tun Jugah Museum & Gallery, founded to preserve and promote traditional Iban culture – find it on the 4th floor of the Tun Jugah Tower. The focus is on Iban ikat (tie-dyed yarn fabric) and songket, an intricate silk brocade made with metallic threads that UNESCO recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021. You can often watch Iban women making incredibly intricate traditional textiles using hand looms and thread that has been coloured using natural plant dyes. There are also displays of traditional beadwork (made with handmade glass beads), ceramics and artefacts made of brass.

The award-winning Tanoti, established to preserve traditional weaving techniques, also offers visitors the rare opportunity to see all the stages in the creation of intricate hand-woven traditional Sarawakian textiles, including luxurious songket. All of Tanoti’s weavers are Malay women. Call a day ahead on 082-239 277 to arrange a visit and they can also show you the process of hand-colouring silk and cotton thread using dyes made from leaves, nuts and roots.

DRINKING IN KUCHING: COFFEE & TEA

Black Bean Coffee & Tea Company Serves coffee from Java, Sumatra and Sarawak, and oolong and green teas from Taiwan.

Earthlings Third-wave coffee outlet specialising in quality brews including liberica beans from Long Banga in the Kelabit Highlands.

Jing-Si Books & Café Drop by this spiritual oasis, run by a Taiwanese Buddhist organisation, to read and sip in a tranquil atmosphere.

Indah House A one-stop blend of cool neighbourhood cafe, cooking-class venue and hip art space. Also serves vegan and veggie food.

Medan Niaga Satok | Uwe Aranas/shutterstock ©

UNESCO CITY OF GASTRONOMY

Karen Shepherd, strategic director of UCCN Kuching Creative City, wrote the bid that secured Kuching UNESCO recognition as a City of Gastronomy. She shares some places to find amazing food across the city.

Petanak Central Market & Hawker Centre

Rundown but with a beautiful riverside location. At the nightly hawker centre on the 1st floor, try stall 27 which serves black pomfret in soy sauce and ginger.

Grandma Handmade Noodle Bak Kut Teh

Grandma serves this classic dish of pork in a herbal stew but with the recipe adjusted to Sarawak tastes.

Kyujin

In a private compound in Saradise, this modern Sarawakian restaurant is helmed by a Michelin-starred chef and serves set menus that feature local ingredients used in inventive ways.

Browse Kuching’s Biggest Fresh Produce Market

Fruits, veggies, herbs and spices

Medan Niaga Satok is Kuching’s biggest and liveliest market. The air here is heady with the aromas of fresh coriander, ginger and herbs, which are displayed among piles of bananas, mangoes, custard apples and other tropical fruits. Vendors are friendly and many are happy to tell you about their wares. It’s open every day, but the main event is the larger weekend market when folks, some from rural longhouses, arrive with fruit, vegetables, fish and spices to sell.

You can reach the market by walking across the pedestrian Satok Suspension Bridge, a 2021 re-creation of the 1926 bridge built to carry water pipelines across the Sungai Sarawak. The bridge really comes to life at night with a decorative light installation.

DRINKING IN KUCHING: BEER

Southside Serves the locally brewed 1602 Pale Ale on draft, as well as a tasting platter of tuak (rice wines). Good food, too.

Fairland Hidden Bar Speakeasy-style bar that’s not that hidden. Has a great collection of hawker stalls, including Balkanico Pizza.

Drunk Monkey Old Street Bar An Old Chinatown bar popular with a relaxed crowd – it has outdoor seating in the adjacent alley.

Bear Garden In a new location as of late 2023 next to the restaurant Zinc, this bar is known for its cheap beers and welcoming atmosphere.

Beyond Kuching

Western Sarawak has a dazzling array of natural sights and affords some excellent opportunities to encounter Borneo’s indigenous cultures.

Destinations within day-trip distance of Kuching include national parks where you can hike through primary rainforest and have a good chance of seeing proboscis monkeys, macaques and bearded pigs – and, if your timing is right, a ginormous rafflesia flower. Justifiably popular are the orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve. Or you could go kayaking down the Sungai Semadang, or caving near the old gold-mining town of Bau.

Alternatively, lounge on the sandy beaches of the Santubong Peninsula or experience Dayak culture at Annah Rais, a longhouse village. Further afield, at Sarawak’s far-western tip, is the beautiful Tanjung Datu National Park, while deep in the rainforests of the interior are the longhouse communities of Batang Ai.

GETTING AROUND

Bus services are thin on the ground (except to Bako Terminal for boats to Bako National Park), but using the Grab ride-hailing service is cheap and easy for most destinations, especially those less than 60km from Kuching.

For full flexibility, rent a car or hire a guide to drive you through a Kuching-based tour agency such as Borneo Adventure or CPH Travel. Also recommended is licensed tour guide Drika (+60 16-716 7805).

Santubong PeninsulaTIME FROM KUCHING: 40 MINS

Have fun at the beach

Like Bako National Park, 8km to the east, the Santubong Peninsula is a 10km-long finger of land jutting into the South China Sea. With some decent sandy strips and several resorts, Santubong (also known as Damai) is one of the best places in Sarawak for a beach-resort holiday.

If you’re not staying in one of the beachside resorts, you can visit most for a small entrance fee. The only free public beach is Damai Central Beach, next to the facilities at Damai Central, which include places to eat and buy supplies, as well as basic outdoor showers and bathrooms.

The peninsula’s best beach deal is at the Permai Rainforest Resort, whose day-use fee is just RM10. A wonderful place to spend a relaxing day, it has a safe, fine-sand beach with changing facilities, and it offers sea kayaking and bodyboarding. Other activities include mountain biking, a guided jungle night walk, a lovely jungle pool where you can take a cooling dip in fresh rainwater, and boat trips to spot dolphins or tour the Kuching Wetlands National Park.

If the weather rules out getting to Bako National Park, then the wildlife-spotting and rainforest-hiking options at this resort are equally as good. Trails include the three- to four-hour Blue Pool loop, or the Waterfall loop that takes between one and two hours; register at the ticket counter and make sure you get back by 4pm. Permai Rainforest Resort is one of the best places in Sarawak to see wild silver-leaf and proboscis monkeys jumping from tree to tree – no one is quite sure why they choose to hang out here, but they don’t seem to mind the human primates down on the ground.

MULTICULTURAL SARAWAK

With over 30 ethnic groups, Sarawak’s diversity is astonishing. Even more remarkable is the degree of harmony between different people, something that has been consciously fostered ever since the days when head-hunting and tribal wars ceased towards the end of the 19th century.

The state’s largest ethnic group are Iban people (just under 29% of the population), followed by the various Chinese ethnicities and Malays (both around 23%). Bidayuh, who mostly live in western Sarawak, make up 8%. This is followed by the tribes known collectively as Orang Ulu (‘people of the interior’), such as Kayan, Kenyah and semi-nomadic Penan. Around Sibu and along the coast you may also encounter Melanau, thought to be among Borneo’s earliest settlers.

A living museum of multicultural Sarawak

Although it is contrived, locals love Damai’s Sarawak Cultural Village (SCV) for its role in keeping their diverse cultures and traditions alive. The village includes seven traditional dwellings: three Dayak longhouses, a Penan hut, a Malay townhouse, a Melanau tall house and a Chinese farmhouse. Twice daily, a 45-minute cultural show presents traditional music and dance from all seven groups. The lively Melanau entry, for instance, involves whirling women and clacking bamboo poles, while the Orang Ulu dance features a blowpipe hunter. The SCV’s smartphone app has details on each structure and offers virtual reality (VR) tours.

Climb Gunung Santubong

Towering Gunung Santubong (810m), the peninsula’s highest point, is often shrouded in clouds. It can be climbed – without a guide – on a challenging trail that begins at the Santubong Ranger Post. The last bit is pretty steep, with steps and aluminium ladders, so it takes about four hours up and almost as long to come down. Because you must return to the ranger post by 4pm, hikers are permitted to begin the ascent only between 8am (7am on Saturday and Sunday) and 9am, and must start their descent from the summit (or turn around) by 1pm at the latest. Another hike, the 2.5km Loop Trail (1½ hours), can be started until noon.

Go in search of dolphins

The majestic mangroves of 66-sq-km Kuching Wetlands National Park can only be accessed by boat from two jetties in Kampung Santubong on the west side of the Santubong Peninsula. To join a cruise, contact a Kuching-based tour agency or see what’s on offer at the area’s beach resorts.

The park consists of low-lying islands and saline waterways lined with mangroves that provide food and shelter for proboscis monkeys, silver-leaf monkeys, long-tailed macaques, fireflies, saltwater crocodiles, amphibious mudskippers and countless varieties of fish and prawns. Nearby open water is one of the best places in Sarawak to spot snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins.

Early morning is the best time to join an excursion to see the dolphins, while late-afternoon cruises are optimal for sighting a flash of reddish-brown fur as proboscis monkeys leap from tree to tree. Sunset on the water is magical, and unbelievably romantic, especially if your guide points out an api-api tree (‘firefly’ tree) surrounded by swirling green points of light.

EATING & DRINKING ON THE SANTUBONG PENINSULA: OUR PICKS

Damai Central Food Court $ Convenient food court at Damai Beach with stalls selling noodles, fried rice and cold drinks.

Lim Hock Ann Seafood $$ Classic Chinese-style seafood restaurant in the Kampung Buntal, on the east coast of the base of the peninsula.

Tanju Bistro & Cafe $$ On the menu of this classy, clifftop bistro with a view at the Culvert Hotel are burgers, pasta, pizza and local dishes.

Kechala $$$ Cove 55’s restaurant offers well-executed Western food and local Iban cuisine. Try the sour eggplant with ginger flowers.

Sri Maha Mariammam Temple | Irmelda/shutterstock ©

MatangTIME FROM KUCHING: 35 MINS

Hike to the lost temple of Matang

Odoardo Beccari, aged just 22, arrived in Kuching in 1865. A year later he built a field hut called Vallombrosa on Matang hill where he studied the forest, eventually becoming a specialist on palms. The Beccari Discovery Trail is named in honour of this famous Italian botanist. From the car park at the foot of the hill it’s a 6.4km round trip along a mostly paved route, shaded by towering trees. Along the way are informative signboards on the site’s history, flora and fauna.

You’ll pass two small Indian temples before arriving at the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple. Known as the Lost Temple of Matang, the original temple was believed to have been built by Indian and Ceylonese immigrants recruited in 1867 by Charles Brooke, the second white raja, to work on a coffee and tea plantation on the hill. The plantation closed in 1912 and the temple was swallowed up by the jungle until its ruins where stumbled upon by a Dayak hunter in 1968; it was rebuilt in 2011.

ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE

Between 1854 and 1856, Alfred Russel Wallace, the British naturalist and explorer, travelled in Sarawak at the invitation of the first white raja James Brooke. According to his memoir, Wallace lived for a time in a little house at the mouth of the Sungai Sarawak, near the foot of Mt Santubong.

It was in Kampung Santubong, during the rainy season, that Wallace wrote his famous ‘Sarawak Law’ (1855). His scientific paper presented the revolutionary theory that new species evolve from existing ones. Four years later Charles Darwin, with whom Wallace corresponded, would publish On the Origin of Species (1859).

There are plans to create a centre to honour Wallace in the village, which will also be part of the long-mooted Santubong Archaeological Park.

TOP SIGHT

Bako National Park

If you only have time for one Sarawak national park, make it Bako, Sarawak’s oldest, gazetted in 1957. This 27-sq-km peninsula jutting into the South China Sea has secluded beaches and bays interspersed with dramatic cliffs and rocks, forests and mangroves. Its incredible biodiversity encompasses everything from wild orchids and pitcher plants to proboscis monkeys.

Simon Richmond/Lonely Planet ©

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DON’T MISS

Close-up view of sea stacks

Interpretation Centre

Lintang Trail hike

Silver-leaf monkeys

Proboscis monkeys

Bearded pigs

Pitcher plants

Thrilling Boat Ride

Every trip to Bako begins with a 20-minute motorboat ride. From 8am to 3pm, two companies take turns sending out boats from Bako Terminal, a scrappy fishing village a 30-minute drive north of Kuching. Call Boat Service (010-809 8389) or Bako Boat (016-810 3079) to check on sea conditions, particularly during monsoon season and from January to March when low tides can affect sailings. Boats fitting one to five people cost RM200 return (cash only). If you share a boat, you must depart and return with the same group. You can set the return time (3pm at the latest, earlier if the sea is choppy or the tide very low) when you depart, or coordinate with the boater by mobile. Tip the boater RM50 and they will take you for a close up look at the park’s incredible weather and wave sculpted cliffs before dropping you at the park HQ jetty.

Arriving at the Park

Head first to the park HQ registration counter and present the entry ticket you bought at Bako Terminal. Staff will give you a map with basic details on the park’s seven or eight hiking options. They will help you plan your visit, provide updates on trail conditions and tides, and help to coordinate boat travel. Once you’ve decided where you’re going, make a note in the Jungle Trekking Registration Book so rangers can send out a search party, if need be; don’t forget to sign back in when you return.

Fauna & Flora

The park’s interior has seven distinct ecosystems, including classic lowland rainforest and kerangas (heath forest). Bako has 37 species of mammals, including silver-leaf monkeys, palm squirrels, the mouse deer, civet and colugo (flying lemur); 24 reptile species, among them the common water monitor, up to 1m long; and about 190 kinds of bird. Animals easily spotted around park HQ include reddish-brown proboscis monkeys and Bornean bearded pigs. Crawling on the muddy floors of mangrove forests are an assortment of creatures such as hermit crabs, fiddler crabs and mudskippers – fish that spend much of their time hopping around atop the tidal mud.

Hiking Trails

If you have only one day, start early so you have time to follow the Lintang Trail (5.8km, 3½ to four hours return). It traverses a range of vegetation and climbs the sandstone escarpment up to the kerangas, where you’ll find grand views and many pitcher plants (especially along the northeastern segment). This and other trails can be combined to create an all-day hike, if you’re staying overnight. You must return to park HQ by 5pm at the latest.

Staying Overnight

It’s best to stay at least one night to fully experience Bako’s wild beauty and for the best chance to see wildlife. Park accommodation is basic but clean and good value. Meals and supplies are available at Kerangas Cafe at park HQ.

One of the perks of staying overnight is the chance to join a ranger-led night walk. If the weather is fine, these 1½- to two-hour walks depart at 8pm. This is the best way to see nocturnal creatures such as huntsman spiders, fireflies, cicadas, frogs and owls.

STAY OUT OF THE WATER

Bako looks like paradise but it has one serious drawback – swimming in the seas around the park is prohibited because of the presence of saltwater crocodiles. Other marine dangers are jellyfish and stingrays. Make do with an ankle-deep paddle along the beach shores.

TOP TIPS

• To visit Bako with a guide, either book with a tour agency in Kuching or link up with a licensed freelance guide at Bako Terminal. Guides are easiest to find early in the morning.

• The Interpretation Centre at the park HQ provides a great introduction to the park’s ecosystems and wildlife.

• While hiking, you can leave your luggage at reception for no charge.

• Wear sturdy shoes (not flip-flops) and bring a torch and towel if staying overnight.

• Do not apply insect repellent on the night walk as this will cause some creatures to make themselves scarce.

Borneo eared frog, Kubah National Park | imagebroker.com/shutterstock ©

KUBAH NATIONAL PARK PRACTICALITIES

Entry to Kubah National Park is only between 8am (7.30am on Saturday, Sunday and holidays) and 11am, and you must leave the park by 4pm. Bring proper walking shoes, as hiking in flip-flops is not allowed. During the monsoon season (November to March), call ahead on +60-11-6572 9242 as the park’s trails can be closed in very rainy weather.

On entry, you’ll receive a hand-coloured schematic map of the park’s six interconnected trails. They’re well marked, so a guide isn’t necessary, and because the trails here offer a good degree of shade, they’re ideal for the sun-averse. The park has over a dozen rain shelters – keep an eye out so you’ll know where to run in case of a downpour.

Palms, orchids and waterfalls

Mixed dipterocarp forest, among the lushest and most threatened habitats in Sarawak, is front and centre at the 22-sq-km Kubah National Park. Here scientists have identified an amazing 98 species of palm (out of 213 species known to live in Sarawak) and over 60 species of frogs and toads. The forest is also home to a wide variety of orchids.

The concrete-paved Summit Rd, also known as the Gunung Serapi Summit Trail, runs from park HQ right up to the top of Kubah’s highest peak, Gunung Serapi (911m), on which is perched a TV and telecom tower. It’s 3½ hours up and a bit less on the way down.

The Waterfall Trail (3.2km; 1½ hours each way; marked from the Summit Rd in blue) passes by wild durian trees and belian (ironwood) trees. As you would expect, this trail ends at a waterfall and a natural pool. In the Palm Garden, near park HQ on the Palmetum Trail, you’ll find examples of all the species of palm that grow in the park.

The Rayu Trail (3.8km; three to 3½ hours) links Kubah with the Matang Wildlife Centre. If you start in Kubah, the route is mainly downhill.

Take a night walk to listen to frogs

Kubah is famous for its frog pond, an artificial pool that provides a habitat and breeding ground for numerous frog species. An audio track recorded here, ‘Dusk by the Frog Pond’, was voted the winner of a 2014 competition to find the most beautiful sound in the world.

Because the delicate amphibians are active mainly at night, the only way to see them is to join a three- to four-hour frogging night walk with a licensed guide. Kubah staff can help you find a guide (RM250 for one to five participants), or you can book through a tour agency in Kuching (about RM220 per person, minimum two). Don’t wear insect repellent – the frogs can smell it and may decide it’s safer to stay hidden.

Rehabilitation at the Matang Wildlife Centre

Situated at the western edge of Kubah National Park, 1.8-sq-km Matang Wildlife Centre has had remarkable success rehabilitating rainforest animals rescued from captivity, especially orangutans. The highly professional staff do their best to provide their abused charges with natural living conditions, but this is not a zoo and doesn’t have the amenities of one. Visiting hours are 9am to noon and 2pm to 4pm; you can hang out in the picnic area from noon to 2pm.

The Animal Enclosure Trail takes visitors through the jungle past animals’ cages and pitcher plants.

Matang’s on-site accommodation must be reserved in advance. There’s nowhere to buy food or drink at the reserve, so bring your own.

HEART2HEART WITH ORANGUTAN

Matang Wildlife Centre is home to endangered animals that you’d have to be extremely lucky to see in the wild in Sarawak. These include sun bears, Malayan porcupines, bearcats, binturongs, gharials, wreathed hornbills and, of course, orangutans.

Some of the creatures at the centre were orphaned, some were confiscated and others were surrendered by the public. Unless they’re needed as evidence in court or lack the necessary survival skills, all are released as soon as possible.

If you’d like to spend a day volunteering at Matang or Semeng-goh Wildlife Centre, sign up for its Heart2Heart WIth Orangutan program – for details see sarawakforestry.com.

LunduTIME FROM KUCHING: 1 HR, 20 MINS

The giant flowers of Gunung Gading National Park

The star attraction of this 42-sq-km park is the Rafflesia tuan-mudae, a plant that’s endemic to Sarawak and whose flowers are up to 1m in diameter. The plant can flower year-round, but it’s unpredictable and each colossal bloom lasts no more than five days before turning into a ring of black slime.

To find out if a rafflesia is in bloom – which happens between 10 and 20 times a year – contact the park (082 735144). There are plenty of other things to see here, though, as the park’s old-growth rainforest, which covers the slopes of four mostly granite mountains (gunung) – Gading, Lundu, Perigi and Sebuloh – features incredible biodiversity.

The Rafflesia Loop Trail, a 620m-long plank walk, leads to a swimming hole fed by a crystal-clear mountain stream. It wends through a stretch of forest that rafflesias find especially convivial. If a blooming rafflesia happens to be close to the trail, it’s possible to go alone, but since most of the flowers are off the path, finding them requires a ranger or licensed freelance guide; park staff can help find one. Except when instructed otherwise by a ranger, keep to the trails to avoid crushing unseen rafflesia buds underfoot.

Three lovely cascades are easily accessible along the Main Trail. You can take a dip at Waterfall 1 and Waterfall 7 (1.5km from park HQ); for safety reasons, swimming is not allowed at Waterfall 3.

For views of the South China Sea, hike the Circular Route, which incorporates the Viewpoint Trail, the Lintang Trail and the Reservoir Trail (a cement stairway). To reach the summit of Gunung Gading (906m) takes about seven to eight hours return, but don’t expect panoramic views as the whole area is thickly forested. Last entry to the park is at 4pm.

ROAD TRIP

Kuching to Telok Melano

The western terminus of the Pan-Borneo Hwy is the quaint fishing hamlet of Telok Melano, gateway to remote and beautiful Tanjung Datu National Park. With an early start from Kuching, you can drive here in half a day, pausing along the way to enjoy activities that include a hike up to a hillside Hindu temple, a visit to a wildlife rehabilitation centre or spotting the world’s largest flower.

1 Sri Maha Mariamman Temple

From the car park, follow the Beccari Discovery Trail up Mt Matang to take in the view from this Hindu temple Cool down after this 6.4km round-trip hike with a dip in the stream that flows through the picnic spot at nearby Retreat 2 @ Serapi Matang.

The Drive: It takes around 30 minutes to drive the 21km to the base of Mt Matang from Kuching. Fill up on petrol as you leave the city.

2 Matang Wildlife Centre

If a hillside hike in the tropical heat is not your thing, then drive swiftly through Matang and past the Kubah National Park to arrive at the Matang Wildlife Centre before it closes for lunch at 11.30am. This is a guaranteed chance to observe orangutans and other endangered indigenous species.

The Drive: It takes around 25 minutes to drive the 18km from Mt Matang to the wildlife centre.

Rafflesia, Gunung Gading National Park | Herrieynaha/shutterstock ©

3 Lundu

Enjoy a tasty mixed rice plate at RBJ Kitchen (stall 9, open from 8am to 5pm) in the Medan Selera Lundu food court. If a rafflesia is in bloom, it’s also worth making a pit stop at Gunung Gading National Park.

The Drive: The 52km (1hr, 8mins) drive to Lundu includes a short car ferry across Batang Rambungan. A bridge was under construction at the time of research.

4 Sematan

This sleepy fishing town at the mouth of the Sungai Serayan Besar is a good place to stretch your legs. There’s a hawker centre, an attractive two-block-long row of old Chinese shophouses and a waterfront promenade with a concrete pier jutting into the blue waters of the South China Sea.

The Drive: It takes 25 minutes to go from Lundu to Sematan, all along the Pan-Borneo Hwy. Lundu’s petrol stations are your last chance to fill up on fuel before Telok Melano.

5 Telok Melano

Having taken photos beside the Pan-Borneo Hwy’s Zero Kilometre Marker, you can grab refreshments at the string of simple food stalls that face the clean, sandy beach.

If you plan to visit the adjacent Tanjung Datu National Park the next day, arrange to stay overnight in one of the village homestays. Otherwise, it’s a two-hour drive back to Kuching.

Annah Rais Longhouse | Dmitry Chulov/shutterstock ©

THE AMAZING RAFFLESIA

One of the wonders of the botanical world, the rafflesia is an astonishing flowers not only because of its world-record size but also because of its extraordinary and mysterious life. Rafflesias are parasites that lack roots, stems or leaves. In fact they consist of just two parts: tiny filaments that burrow into the host vine – a member of the grape family called Tetrastigma – and the flower itself, which often erupts directly from the forest floor, bursting forth from a cabbage-sized bud that takes nine to 12 months to mature, if it isn’t devoured by small mammals first.

There are approximately 17 species of rafflesia (estimates vary); all are threatened to some degree, mainly by loss of habitat.

Telok MelanoTIME FROM KUCHING: 2 HRS

Tackle jungle trails at Sarawak’s northwestern tip

Occupying a remote, rugged peninsula in Sarawak’s far west, 14-sq-km Tanjung Datu National Park features endangered mixed dipterocarp rainforest, jungle trails that hear few footfalls, crystal-clear seas, unspoilt coral reefs and near-pristine white-sand beaches on which endangered green and olive Ridley turtles occasionally lay their eggs (offshore islands that are part of Talang-Satang National Park are a more popular choice). Of those visitors who make the effort to travel out here, few fail to come away enchanted.

The park has four trails, including the Telok Melano Trail (3.7km) from the gateway Malay fishing village of Telok Melano, and the Belian Trail (2km), which goes to the summit of 542m-high Gunung Melano (2km; one hour) and affords breathtaking views of the coastlines of Kalimantan and Sarawak.

Accommodation options include very simple guest rooms and open-sided shelters that are as basic as they come, but the location – almost on the beach, looking out at the sea – makes a night here pretty special. The park can provide bedding and mosquito nets. Food is not available, so buy all you need before arrival. It may be possible to rent cooking equipment.

If weather conditions allow, the easiest way into the park is by boat from Telok Melano (RM300 return); to hire a boat ask around in the village’s homestays, or call ahead to make arrangements with the park HQ. In rainy season the only way to get to the park is on foot along the Telok Melano Trail, a demanding 1½- to two-hour trek.

EATING IN FAR WESTERN SARAWAK: OUR PICKS

Medan Selera Lundu $ Central food court serving noodle dishes and rice plates. Most stalls are open daytime only.

Pusat Penjaja Gading Lundu $ Above the fruit-and-vegetable market is a hawker centre with Chinese and Malay food stalls.

Sand Bar $ Simple beach-side dining – from fried rice to fish and chips – at the Rafflesia Resort, a 10-minute drive north of Lundu.

Sematan Kopitiam $ Vintage waterfront cafe with hawker stalls serving simple noodle and rice dishes and drinks.

Semenggoh Nature ReserveTIME FROM KUCHING: 30 MINS

Hang out with orangutans

The Semenggoh Wildlife Centre is one of the best places in the world to see semi-wild orangutans in their natural rainforest habitat, dangling from trees and scurrying up vines. The centre is home to around 30 orangutans, many of whom swing by park HQ to dine on bananas and coconuts.

There’s no guarantee that the ginger simians will show up, with your best chances being between late March and October after the fruiting season. At other times of the year there’s plenty to eat in the forest, so visits to dine on the food left by the rangers are less frequent. Even so, the rangers will do their best to locate any orangutans close by the visitor viewing area and guide people along trails to see them.

Hour-long feedings, which complement the food that the apes forage for themselves (wild fruits as well as honey, small insects, bamboo shoots and bird’s eggs), are held in the Orangutan Main Feeding Area, a few hundred metres from park HQ in the forest. They are held daily at around 9am and 3pm – the apes themselves keep to their own timetables and can show up earlier or later. The park itself is open to the public from 8am to 10am and 2pm to 4pm.

The reserve’s entrance gate is linked to park HQ by electric buggies that cost RM15 per person; part of the fee goes to fund the park. The 1.3km distance can also be covered on foot. Tours to Semenggoh are offered by a variety of tour agencies in Kuching.

DON’T ANNOY THE ORANGUTANS

Keep a distance of at least 6m from the free-roaming orangutans who, like humans (with whom they share almost 97% of their DNA), have their moods and can be unpredictable and even aggressive. Keep a tight grip on backpacks, water bottles and cameras because orangutans have been known to snatch things from people in search of something yummy.

To avoid annoying – or even angering – the orangutans, do not point at them with anything that looks like a gun (such as a walking stick or camera tripod); do not scream or make sudden moves; and when you take pictures, do not use a flash. And never stand directly underneath an orangutan or you risk getting an odoriferous shower.

Annah Rais TIME FROM KUCHING: 1 HR

A traditional Bidayuh longhouse

The Annah Rais Longhouse village has been hosting tourists for decades, and is an excellent place to get a sense of what a longhouse is and how it’s laid out. Either visit as a day guest and eat a meal here, or stay overnight in one of the homestays.

The 200 or so full-time residents of Annah Rais, members of 156 households, are as keen as the rest of us to enjoy the comforts of modern life, but they’ve made a conscious decision to preserve their traditional architecture and the social interaction it engenders. Welcoming tourists is also a good way for some to earn a living without moving to the city.

Once you’ve paid your entrance fee (RM10) at the pavilion in the parking lot, you’re free to explore the village’s three sections: Kupo Saba, Kupo Terekan and, across the river, Kupo Sijuo. The village also has single-family homes.

The standard overnight package includes full board (delicious Bidayuh cuisine), a tour of the longhouse, and activities such as hiking, (mock) blowpipe hunting, soaking in a nearby natural hot spring and a dance performance. For an additional fee you can also go bamboo rafting and fishing. Bring walking shoes, torch, bathing suit and mosquito repellent.

LONGHOUSE ARCHITECTURE

The most important feature of a Bidayuh longhouse is the awah, a long covered verandah used for socialising and celebrations. Off the awah, a long row of doors leads to each family’s private bilik (home).

Whereas the Iban traditionally hung head-hunted skulls right outside each family’s bilik, the Bidayuh grouped theirs together in the communal meeting hall, known as a panggah in Annah Rais, a baruk around Bau, and a balu’ in the Serian area (Bidayuh has lots of different dialects).

The Bidayuh once believed the trophy heads of their enemies protected the village; a dozen smoke-blackened human skulls continue to have pride of place in the Kupo Saba hall, suspended near an 18th-century Dutch cannon.

Kayaking along the Semadang River

A half-day activity that could easily be combined with a visit to Annah Rais is kayaking on the upper reaches of the Sungai Sarawak, known locally as the Sungai Semadang. The people to contact to arrange this are Semadang Borneo Adventure based in Kampung Semadang, about a 25-minutes drive north of Annah Rais. They can also arrange direct tours from Kuching.

SiniawanTIME FROM KUCHING: 40 MINS

Dine out in a historic Chinese traders town

Little more than a strip of heritage wooden shophouses lining a 500m pedestrianised main drag, Siniawan was a once-thriving Sungai Sarawak river port settled by Hakka Chinese traders in the 1840s.

Its modern-day fame is because the high street turns into a giant food court, the Siniawan Night Market, on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from 5pm to 10pm. Round plastic tables fill the street and the place feels like it’s somewhere in the Wild West – which Siniawan capitalises on with a country-music festival each October.

While you’re in the area it’s also worth swinging by the KBS Buddhist Village, which includes an impressive nine-storey pagoda, landscaped gardens with plenty of Buddhist-themed statues, and the Xiangshan Vegetarian Restaurant.

BauTIME FROM KUCHING: 45 MINS

Explore a couple of amazing caves

The Fairy Cave Nature Reserve, about a 13-minute drive southwest of Bau, is an extraordinary limestone chamber whose entrance is 30m above the ground in the side of a cliff (access is by staircase). Outside, trees grow out of the sheer rockface at impossible angles; inside, fanciful rock formations, covered with moss, give the cavern an otherworldly aspect, as do the ferns straining to absorb every photon they can find.

Of the three connected trails, you only need a licensed guide for the steep Gunung Kapor Summit Trail (five hours return). Park staff (011-6572 9290) can supply you with a list of guides to contact a day or two ahead of time. The reserve is closed on Monday and during heavy rain and thunderstorms.

The Wind Cave Nature Reserve is about a six-minute drive west of Bau. Boardwalks run through the caves alongside subterranean streams, allowing you to explore three main passages (total length 560m), with chittering bats, both fruit and insect-eating, swooping overhead. In January and February the cave may close if the water level is too high. About 300m from the cave entrance, you can cool off with a refreshing swim in Sungai Sarawak Kanan.

Tasik Biru | Louvis Ferrer/shutterstock ©

CAVING & ROCK-CLIMBING PRACTICALITIES

To explore the caves near Bau, you need to wear closed walking shoes. You can rent rubber shoes at either cave, and strong torches, which are necessary to safely negotiate dark and slippy parts and to see the bats hanging from the cave roofs.

Local rock climbers often gather at the limestone formation near the Fairy Cave, about 300m before you get to park HQ, which offers some overhanging routes, rated 5.8 to 5.13 (Yosemite) or 5a to 8a (French).

On most weekends, members of a local rock-climbing group meet up here. To join them, call Eunice on 012-886 6832 for details and to let her know your level of experience; you can also chat about borrowing equipment.

Old gold mine reimagined

A five-minute drive from central Bau is Tasik Biru, a small lake and local recreational area with a food court, hotel and paddle boats. The lake was created from the remains of the late-19th-century Bukit Young Gold Mine, which was the source of Bau’s original fortunes.

For a small fee (which includes two cans of soft drink) you can cross the lake via a floating pontoon bridge and climb to the hilltop Tokong Fook Teck, a 200-year-old Taoist temple. Also known as Golden Hill Temple, the building was renovated in 2023 to include a giant red statue of a naked boy, a gilded Chinese warrior statue, a turtle pond and a glass-bottomed, cantilevered platform. Cover yourself in insect repellent before making the short walk to the temple.

An eight-minute drive northeast of Bau and next to the Shiwang Temple is Paku Rock Maze Garden. It’s fun and free to explore this natural warren of karst rock formations.

EATING & DRINKING IN SINIAWAN & BAU: OUR PICKS

Bikalan In a shophouse made of belian wood, this atmospheric saloon serves Bidayuh, Chinese and Western food, and locally produced tuak.

The Post There’s more of a contemporary style to this bar and restaurant in Siniawan that’s open in the evenings.

Kiaw Ming Hui Retro kopitiam in Bau’s town centre. Uncle rattles his wok ferociously while preparing dishes such as ‘Mangolian’ chicken rice.

Tasik Biru Food Village Hawker centre serving all the usual local favourites overlooking the lake in the former gold mine, a few km outside Bau.

Longhouse, Batang Ai | Dreamer Company/shutterstock ©

ABOUT THE NATIONAL PARK

Covering 240 sq km, Batang Ai National Park is part of a vast contiguous area of protected rainforest that includes the 1870-sq-km Lanjak Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary, the Ulu Sungai Menyang area (in the process of being granted protected status) and the 8000-sq-km Betung Kerihun National Park across the border in West Kalimantan.

The dipterocarp rainforests in and around the park have the highest density of wild orangutans in central Borneo and are home to other primates as well as hornbills. Few visitors venture into the national park itself, in part because some of the trails have not been properly maintained, but also because swathes of the park are closed to visitors for conservation reasons.

Batang AiTIME FROM KUCHING: 40 MINS + 2 HRS

Experience Iban culture in remote jungle longhouses

Traditional wood-built longhouses that are only moderately impacted by modern ways can be found in the Iban settlements of the remote Batang Ai region, accessible only by boat. A lot of young people in Batang Ai are headed to the cities in search of jobs, but many aspects of traditional Iban life live on.

Batang Ai is also the best place in Sarawak to catch a glimpse of truly wild orangutans. Sightings are not guaranteed, but they’re not rare either.

Hiking options in the forested hills between the park and Batang Ai reservoir (24 sq km), which was created in 1980 by a hydroelectric dam, range from easygoing strolls along rivers such as Ulu Sungai Delok and its tributaries, to the difficult five-day Red Ape Trail trip pioneered by Borneo Adventure.

Visits to this remote region are by guided tours run by Kuching-based agencies such as Borneo Adventure and CPH Travel and Borneo Transerve (borneotransverse.com.my). To truly experience Iban culture amid stunning river and jungle landscapes, stay two nights minimum.

Batang Rajang

RIVER TRIPS | REMOTE LONGHOUSES | DAYAK CULTURE

A trip up Malaysia’s longest river, Batang Rajang, is a classic Sarawak adventure. This part of the state retains a frontier ulu-ulu (back of beyond) vibe, especially in the longhouse villages that are still accessible only by boat.

The bustling riverside port of Sibu is the gateway to the Batang Rajang. Spend a day or two here enjoying its food and Chinese temples before taking the road to the main upriver settlement of Kapit. From here an express boat powers through the muddy river’s currents, the pilot expertly dodging angular black boulders half-hidden by the roiling waters. The riverbanks are swathed in lush greenery and dotted with longhouse communities, at which the boat pauses to let off and pick up passengers.

End of the line is Belaga, from where you can access the Singapore-sized lake created by the Bakun Dam, and arrange to visit and stay at some memorable longhouses.

SIGHTS

1  Bakun Dam

2  Long Daah

3  Old Sago Factory Chimney

4  Pancur Gelanggang

5  Pelagus Rapids

6  Rumah Gare Timbang

7  Sekapan Panjang

8  Tokong Eng Hong

9  Tua Pek Kong Temple

10  Uma Ukit

11  Yu Lung San Tien En Si Temple

ACTIVITIES

12  Bukit Mabong

SLEEPING

13  Uma Belor Leo Dian

EATING

14  Ah Lian Cafe

15  Mukah Hawker Centre

16  Riverside Restaurant

17  Sibu Night Market

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

18  La Fame Cafe

SHOPPING

19  Mukah Wet Market

GETTING AROUND

Sibu Airport is 24km east of the city centre – around 30 minutes to town by taxi depending on traffic; if you’re heading to Kapit, buses stop at the airport.

Central Sibu is walkable; to reach Mukah (two- to 2½-hour drive) hire a car.

Sibu’s Long-Distance Bus Station (Terminal Pahlawan) is about 3.5km northeast of the centre. Buses from here run to Kapit, Mukah, Bintulu, Kuching and Miri. You can book online.

The only way between Kapit and Belaga is by riverboat. Sungai Asap and Belaga can be reached by road from Bintulu.

Learn About Sibu’s History

Sarawak’s most Chinese city

The Sibu Heritage Centre, housed in a circular municipal building from the early 1960s, offers a dated but thorough introduction to the fascinating history of the ‘Swan City’ and its surrounds. Panels, rich in evocative photographs, take a look at the city’s Chinese dialect groups and Sibu’s Christian traditions. Look out for the wince-inducing photo of a 1940s street dentist! Other sections focus on Dayak and Malay cultures, and Chinese ceramics. On the building’s ground floor is the Visitors Information Centre.

For panoramic city views, head to Tua Pek Kong Temple, a colourfully decorated Taoist temple right on the riverbank, and climb the seven-storey Kuan Yin Pagoda. The best time is just before sunset, when a swirl of swiftlets buzz around the tower at eye level. Ask for the key at the ground-floor desk; it closes around 7pm.

Also worth considering if you’re in town Friday to Sunday is taking a one-hour sightseeing or sunset cruise run by Sibu River Cruise. Using the old ‘coffin boats’ that used to shuttle between Sibu and Kapit, the cruises depart from Pulau Babi Wharf, opposite Tua Pek Kong Temple.

TOP TIP

If you’re looking for a ride into or out of Belaga contact Ah Kiat (013 807 5598). He leaves Belaga at 7.30am on his post run to Bintulu and returns from the coastal town at around 1pm. The cost is RM70.

Sibu’s Sensational Market Scene

Eat around the clock

Vast Sibu Central Market is not to be missed. It’s particularly lively on Sunday mornings when locals throng its aisles shopping for everything from live chickens wrapped in newspaper to fresh bundles of jungle ferns and colourful handwoven baskets. Upstairs is a popular food court. Keep an eye out for bubur (rice porridge; available early in the morning and at night) and mee kampua (noodles soaked in pork fat and served with roast pork), sold at stalls such as Hock Soon Hin Food (stall 70). The roti from Roti Canai Coner (stall 69) is superb.

Another famous Foochow speciality, kompia (small, sesame-seed-coated buns traditionally baked in a tandoori-style clay oven), can be found downstairs at stall 53D. See them being baked at Fatt Bakery a block north of the market.

For more grazing on the go, check out Sibu’s lively night market. Mooch around to find both Chinese stalls offering roast pork and freshly made dumplings, and Malay stalls offering excellent satay and barbecue chicken. Look for the hawkers selling banana fritters and delicious apam balik, pancakes filled with butter and crushed peanuts, cooked and folded like an omelette before your eyes.

SIBU, SWAN CITY

Sibu has prospered for over 170 years from trade with Sarawak’s interior. Originally a Melanau and Malay kampung, James Brooke built a fort here in 1863. The town’s fortunes grew as waves of Chinese immigrants settled – today, their descendants make up two-thirds of the city’s residents. By far the the most prominent group were those who came from Foochow (Fuzhou) in the early years of the 20th century.

One story goes that it was the Foochow who chose the swan to be Sibu’s symbol as the Batang Rajang reminded them of the Swan River in their homeland. The city’s most famous swan statue flaps its wings on a plinth in the river opposite the Victorious Cafe.

Enjoy Fresh Seafood in Mukah

Mellow Melanau fishing town

The coastal town of Mukah, around two hours’ drive northeast of Sibu, is the heartland of the Melanau, an indigenous tribe who have traditionally worked as fishers and sago-palm farmers. They are also famous for their terendak (conical sunhats) and for living in wooden houses built on stilts – you will see plenty of both in Mukah.

Each morning local fishers unload their catch at the town’s covered, old-time wet market beside the Sungai Gigis. Watch stall holders shredding fish such as perang (war fish) and beliak mata (bigeye ilisha) – when marinated with calamansi lime juice, chillies and shallots it makes umai, the Melanau ceviche. You can sample this delicious dish either in takeaway packs from the market or at the neighbouring hawker centre.

Between the market and the Tua Pek Kong Temple is a 20m-tall brick chimney, a remnant of the late-19th-century sago-flour factory that once stood here.

EATING IN SIBU: LOCAL SPECIALITIES

Victorious Cafe $ Famous kopitiam serving Foochow specialities such as kueh chap and mee sapi.

Sing Hin Corner $ One of the best places in town for kampua mee (Foochow-style fried noodles).

Payung Cafe $$ Payung serves delicious, healthy dishes, including plenty of salads and fresh juices – good for vegetarians.

Mak Borneo $$ Classy restaurant specialising in Dayak cuisine, including the fish ceviche umai Ikan and sago worms.

JADE DRAGON TEMPLE

Easily combined with a day trip to Mukah is a visit to the Yu Lung San Tien En Si Temple, a 30-minute drive west of Sibu. Also known as Jade Dragon Temple, it’s claimed to be the largest Chinese temple complex in Southeast Asia; many would rightly quibble with this. Nevertheless, it is a sight to behold.

The sprawling and brightly decorated complex, fronted by a soaring gateway, is unusual in that it combines elements of Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian religious worship. Of the four main devotional halls, the largest is the Mahavira Hall housing a trio of giant Buddha images. On the approach, look out for the bas-relief wall murals of the eight immortals and nine dragons.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Sibu Heritage Centre

ACTIVITIES

2  Sibu River Cruise

EATING

3  Ark Cafe

4  Fatt Bakery

5  Night Market

6  Payung Cafe

7  Sibu Central Market

8  Sing Hin Corner

9  Victorious Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

10  The Bank

A Wander Around Kapit

Catch the riverboat here

Kapit has been a trading and transport hub for surrounding longhouse communities since the days of the white rajas. It still has something of a frontier vibe, but this is fast fading since a road connecting it to Sibu opened at the end of 2020.

The focal point of its compact, bustling downtown is Pasar Teresang, a colourful covered market. Just north of the main market building is the red- and yellow-painted Hock Leong Tieng Temple, dating to 1889.

Kapit’s main historical attraction is Fort Sylvia, made of nearly indestructible belian (ironwood). Charles Brooke built it in 1880 to take control of the Upper Rajang; it was renamed in 1925 to honour Ranee Sylvia, wife of Charles Vyner Brooke. The exhibits inside offer a good introduction to the traditional lifestyles of the indigenous groups of the Batang Rajang and include evocative colonial-era photographs. It’s closed Monday.

If you have time to kill, the Lily Pond Recreational Park is a pleasant spot to hang out.

EATING & DRINKING IN SIBU & MUKAH: OUR PICKS

The Bank $$ Lively two-level bar and cafe in a former Sibu bank where DJs play on Friday and Saturday nights. Also has snooker and karaoke.

Ark Cafe $$ This cafe-bar’s outdoor seating is the perfect place to watch the river drift by in Sibu while enjoying a cold beer or a wine.

La Fame Cafe $ Go upstairs from the street to find this surprisingly trendy coffee bar in Mukah. Serves good pastries and light meals.

Riverside Restaurant $$ Near the Taoist temple in Mukah, this seafood restaurant has a rustic design. Serves a wide range of dishes.

SIGHTS

1  Fort Sylvia

2  Hock Leong Tieng Temple

3  Lily Pond Recreational Park

SLEEPING

4  Loft Palls Urbanstay

5  New Rejang Inn

EATING

6  Famous Bakery

7  Gelanggang Kenyalang

8  Medan Selera Tempat Parking

9  Spring Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

10  Chat Tea

11  Lily Pond Cafe & Bistro

SHOPPING

12  Pasar Teresang

TRANSPORT

13  Kapit Passenger Terminal

By ‘Flying Coffin’ from Kapit to Belaga

Sarawak’s last great river journey

Sarawak’s last public river ferry is the ‘coffin boat’ – named because of the vessel’s long narrow shape, not its safety record – which shuttles between Kapit and Belaga. Call 011-2411-3202 in advance to check the departure schedule as the boat goes from Kapit to Belaga one day and returns the next. At the time of research, departures from Kapit Passenger Terminal were at 10.15am; get there well ahead of time to buy tickets, which are only available on the day. From Belaga, departures are at 7.15am. Count on the journey taking around 6½ hours as there are many stops along the way. Bring food and drink.

The boat’s interior is air-conditioned and there are nonstop screenings of pop karaoke videos, WWF wrestling and the like. Fortunately, the lush scenery outside provides alternative viewing. If you’re brave, you may choose to join some locals sitting on the roof of the boat. The views and the breeze can also be enjoyed, with far less risk, from the boat’s doorways. The most thrilling part of the journey is around 32km upriver from Kapit at the Pelagus Rapids when the helmsperson steers the boat like a giant jet ski to avoid numerous rocks and small islands.

EATING IN KAPIT: OUR PICKS

Spring Cafe $ A popular kopitiam with stalls selling laksa during the day and delicious BBQ chicken wings and satay at night.

Medan Selera Tempat Parking $ Night food court atop a multistorey carpark. Options include Kuali Panas Cafe for tasty nasi goreng berempah.

Gelanggang Kenyalang $ Best for Malay and Chinese breakfasts, including local laksa and Kapit’s best roti canai.

Famous Bakery $ All kinds of baked treats to take away or eat in at this lively cafe that also serves noodles, lots of drinks and fresh coconut.

THE IMPACT OF THE BAKUN DAM

Labelled ‘a monument to corruption’, by Transparency International, the Bakun Dam has been hugely controversial. When it began operating in 2011, the plan was to send 90% of the 2400 MW of electricity generated by the dam to Peninsular Malaysia via undersea cables. This proved unfeasibly costly, leaving an oversupply of power in Sarawak.

The most contentious aspect of the project was the submerging of 700 sq km of forests and farmland and the displacement of some 10,000 indigenous people from their ancestral lands. They were resettled in the Sungai Asap area, in 15 new longhouses built at their own expense. Each family was also promised 10 acres of farmland but was only provided with three acres.

The Isolated Outpost of Belaga

Soak up the frontier vibe

By the time your express boat pulls into Belaga you may feel as though you’ve arrived in the heart of Borneo. There’s not much to do in town except soak up the frontier vibe. Along the riverfront, a paved promenade offers a prime perch for watching the Rajang flow lazily by. Nearby stands a Tokong Eng Hong, a Taoist temple inaugurated in late 2022.

From Belaga it’s possible to visit Orang Ulu (primarily Kayan and Kenyah) longhouses and hidden waterfalls. Nearby destinations include Long Daah, a Kayan longhouse 10 minutes upriver by boat from Belaga, and Sekapan Panjang, a traditional all-wood longhouse, 30 minutes downstream that’s home to the Sekapan, one of Sarawak’s most endangered ethnic groups.

About 40km by road from Belaga is the vast lake formed by the 205m-high Bakun Dam. On Saturday and Wednesday mornings locals sell fish at the dam’s jetty, as well as cuts of meat from wild boars and mouse deer hunted in the area. It’s also possible to catch a boat to homestays on the lake; contact Audrey Lohat (011-1402-4204) about Mebong Villa.

Visit the Longhouses of Sungai Asap

Sarawak’s longest longhouse

The indigenous communities relocated in the late 1990s from the lands flooded by the creation of the Bakun Dam have turned to tourism to supplement their farming around the settlement of Sungai Asap, about a two-hour drive northeast of Belaga.

Uma Belor Leo Dian is a Kayan longhouse. Running for 1.2km, it is said to be the longest longhouse in Sarawak. There are pleasant homestays here where you can arrange jungle trekking to nearby waterfalls. A 20-minute drive north is the extraordinary Uma Ukit, a longhouse that is home to the small tribe of Ukit. The entire structure is a work of art, its walls and furniture decorated with intricate patterns created from strips of rattan. Day visits here only.

EATING IN KAPIT & BELAGA: OUR PICKS

Lily Pond Cafe & Bistro $$ Within Kapit’s Lily Pond Park, this modern cafe/bar is a pleasant spot for a draught beer or Western-style food.

Chat Tea $ About as contemporary as it gets for Kapit, this bright cafe specialises in bubble tea and snack foods loved by the town’s youth.

Ah Lian Cafe $ The best option for breakfast or lunch in Belaga is this brightly decorated Chinese-run restaurant. Try the Sarawak laksa.

Belaga Night Market $ Serving Malay, Chinese and Kenyah dishes. Ah Kiat’s stall has tasty fried chicken and seafood fried rice.

Miri

CRAFT SHOPPING | NIGHTLIFE | TRANSPORT HUB

Sarawak’s first oil well was drilled in Miri in 1910, subsequently transforming a fishing village into what is now the state’s second-largest city. Thanks to significant offshore reserves and the economic activity they generate, there’s plenty of money sloshing around. Miri is also a hugely popular weekend and holiday getaway for Bruneians who come here to eat, shop and drink.

As one of Sarawak’s prime air hubs, chances are that you’ll pass through Miri, especially if you are making trips to Gunung Mulu National Park and the Kelabit Highlands. Miri isn’t big on historical sites but it’s not an unattractive city. Walk around the centre to get a feel for the local vibe or hang out at its coastal parks and beaches. It has a great range of places to dine and drink, and is also a good spot to buy Dayak handicrafts, including beadwork, textiles, baskets and woven mats.

SIGHTS

1  Petroleum Museum

2  Tua Pek Kong Temple

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

3  Borneo Dive Network

4  Co.Co.Dive

EATING

5  Apollo Seafood Centre

6  Madli’s Restaurant

7  Summit Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

8  Atoti

9  Coffee Code

10  Ming Cafe

11  Sky Garden Dining Miri

SHOPPING

12  Borneo Heritage Handicrafts Centre

13  Miri Handicraft Centre

14  Permaisuri Imperial City Mall

15  Sarawak Handicraft

16  Sin Liang Supermarket

GETTING AROUND

Miri Airport is a 15-minute drive (10km) south of the city centre. There are several car-rental firms at the airport. Luth Car Rental (tel/WhatsApp 012-787 5661) does not have an airport office but offers excellent service.

The new Long Distance Bus Terminal is around a 10-minute drive (5km) southeast of the centre, near the General Hospital.

Downtown Miri is relatively compact and walkable, but to get to some of the further-flung sights it’s best to take a taxi or rent a car.

Tua Pek Kong Temple | Anna ART/shutterstock ©

TOP TIP

If you plan to stay in Miri on a Friday and/or Saturday night, book well ahead to be sure to get the hotel of your choice. Hotels fill up on these days as Bruneians, including expats, flock to Miri for a break.

A Nature Reserve in the City

Bird-watching hot spot

Lush Piasau Nature Reserve covers land that in the 1950s was developed as a fenceless residential estate for Shell employees. Divided into different vegetative zones, the reserve is a good place to learn about the local flora and fauna. It’s also a prime bird-watching location, most famous for the oriental pied hornbills that breed here, but also for some 44 other species including the hill myna, yellow-vented bulbul and collared kingfisher. Next to the reserve’s interpretation centre is the Hornbill Cafe, serving tasty Malaysian classics – it’s another good reason for visiting.

Chase Down Chinese Dragons

Two decorative temples

After the Iban, people of Chinese descent are the second-largest ethnic community in Miri. Tua Pek Kong Temple, Miri’s oldest Chinese temple, dates to 1913, and was once on the banks of the Sungai Miri. The river was diverted to create the Marina Bay district, but the colourfully decorated temple remains and carries on as a place for rituals and festivals.

Also worth a look is Lian Hua San San Ching Tian Temple, one of Southeast Asia’s largest Taoist temples. Soothing wind chimes, intricate dragon reliefs and majestic figures of the Three Pure Ones, are among its decorative features.

Hilltop Viewpoint

Miri’s first oil well

Miri exists because of the discovery of oil. Atop the crest of Canada Hill, a low ridge 2km southeast of the town centre, stands Malaysia’s first oil well, drilled in 1910. The original derrick, known as the Grand Old Lady, stands outside the Petroleum Museum where the exhibits are dated but offer a solid introduction to this hugely lucrative industry. The best reason for visiting is for the elevated city views.

HORNBILL HOT SPOT

Sarawak is home to eight of the world’s 57 species of hornbill: helmeted hornbill, rhinoceros hornbill, wreathed hornbill, wrinkled hornbill, black hornbill, white-crowned hornbill, bushy-crested hornbill and oriental pied hornbill. It’s the last of these that nest in the Piasau Nature Reserve.

Jimmy and Faridah were the original avian couple in the Piasau Camp who produced 56 offspring. In 2013, Faridah was shot by a poacher, a death that caused outrage among local nature lovers and prompted the gazetting of the reserve. Soon after Faridah’s death Jimmy paired up with Juliet, a liaison that resulted in more baby hornbills. Juliet passed on in 2022, but Jimmy is still going and has a new love interest, Valentine.

Sunset Viewing Location

Miri’s mascot

The city’s mascot is the seahorse and there are several large statues of these marine creatures scattered around. The largest one doubles as a lighthouse and stands at the tip of Coco Cabana, a spit that’s a breezy location to head around sunset. As well as several low-key places to eat and drink, a kids playground and funfair attractions, there’s also a large hall with beautifully carved wooden panels that’s used for events such as the Miri Country Music Fest held in early December.

EATING IN MIRI: OUR PICKS

Apollo Seafood Centre For over 30 years the go-to place in downtown Miri for seafood. The quality is excellent and the catch couldn’t be fresher.

Summit Café $$ Miri’s only Kelabit restaurant serves an array of delicious ‘jungle food’. Come at 11am – it’s all done by 2pm.

Madli’s Restaurant $$ Renowned for its tasty and succulent beef, chicken and lamb satay, as well nasi lemak and fried rice.

Saberkas Night Market $ Dozens of stalls selling all the hawker favourites, a 12-minute drive northeast of the centre.

Seahorse lighthouse | Ng Chun Kiong/shutterstock ©

SHOPPING IN MIRI

Miri Handicraft Centre

The city’s best selection of handicrafts. Stalls sell colourful bags, baskets, sarongs, textiles etc.

Sarawak Handicraft

Two floors of crafts from across the state, including wood carvings of hornbills and other traditional figures.

Borneo Heritage Handicrafts Centre

A wide selection of local handicrafts at this long pavilion divided into small shops.

Permaisuri Imperial City Mall

The best central shopping mall is attached to the Imperial Mall. A good place to stock up on supplies before a trek.

Sin Liang Supermarket

Well stocked with snacks, toiletries, beers and Australian wines. A good place to get supplies for a trek in Mulu or the Kelabit Highlands.

Scuba Diving Off Miri

Whale sharks and wrecks

The Miri-Sibuti Coral Reefs Marine Park, in the waters off Miri, has some excellent 7m- to 30m-deep scuba sites, including old oil platforms teeming with fish and assorted trawler and freighter wrecks.

The corals here are in good condition and the water unpolluted, despite the proximity of heavy industry and oil drilling. Water visibility is at its best from March to September – this is when you stand the best chance of spotting giant cuttlefish, whale sharks and sting rays.

To arrange dives, contact either Co.Co.Dive or Borneo Dive Network, both of which offer PADI-certification courses.

DRINKING IN MIRI: OUR PICKS

Ming Cafe Perpetually busy and party central for downtown Miri. Also serves great pizza and other Western dishes.

Atoti Stylish coffee bar in the lobby of the Mercure Hotel. Also serves gourmet sandwiches and gelato.

Coffee Code Serving a fine range of coffees and other beverages alongside sweet and savoury treats such as waffles, pizza and cakes.

Sky Garden Dining Miri On the 17th floor of the Meritz Hotel, this bar is the place to enjoy a cocktail or beer with a glittering view of the city.

Beyond Miri

Head out from the coastal city to discover amazing caves, rainforest hikes and a river port that hosts a spectacular regatta.

Day trips from Miri include two extraordinary national parks. Niah National Park is being considered for UNESCO World Heritage listing because of the archaeological excavations that have shed light on the human beings who lived and died here roughly 2000 generations ago.

Lambir Hills National Park offers day treks through primary rainforest, whose biodiversity has astounded researchers. And after a hot, sweaty hike, you can take a cool dip in a crystal-clear pool.

You can either drive or take a short flight to Marudi, an old trading post on the Sungai Baram, Sarawak’s second-longest river. Every three years the town hosts the Baram Boat Regatta, which has a history dating back to 1899.

Niah National ParkTIME FROM MIRI: 1½ HRS

Entering the underworld

Niah is best known for the important archaeological discoveries from its giant limestone cave that shed light on the humans who lived here way back when Borneo was still connected to mainland Southeast Asia.

When you arrive, register at the Customer Service Centre and inform the staff of your itinerary. It’s worth taking time to look around the adjacent Interpretation Centre, with exhibits on the park’s cave paintings and Penan mythology.

Next, make a quick crossing by boat to enter the park proper and stop by the Archaeology Museum, which has displays on Niah’s geology, ecology and prehistoric archaeology, including an original burial canoe that’s at least 1200 years old.

A 3.1km raised boardwalk (3½ to four hours return) leads through swampy old-growth rainforest to the mouth of the Great Cave. This immense cavern is approximately 2km long, up to 250m across and up to 60m high. When you’re halfway through the dark passage known as Gan Kira try turning off your torch to experience complete darkness.

Beyond Gan Kira, you emerge into the forest and a section of boardwalk before arriving at the Painted Cave, famed for its ancient red-hematite drawings depicting jungle animals, human figures and the souls of the dead being taken to the afterlife by boat. It’s tricky to make out the images, as many have faded to indistinct scrawls along a narrow 30m strip at the back of the cave.

Even if you’re staying overnight at the accommodation here, you must enter the 31-sq-km park before 3pm and be back at the river to take the last boat across to the park HQ by 5pm.

GETTING AROUND

The area around Miri is best explored by car – rental can easily be arranged in Miri. Public transport is also an option, but only for the national parks. For Niah, take any long-distance bus heading to Bintulu, Sibu or Kuching and ask to get off at Batu Niah Junction, a bustling assemblage of shops and food stalls. From there, a Grab ride to park HQ (20 minutes) costs about RM20. The same buses that link Miri with Batu Niah Junction also pass Lambir Hills National Park – just ask the driver to stop.

HARVESTING BIRDS’ NESTS AT NIAH

The caves at Niah have long been a source of important resources to Sarawak’s indigenous tribes. Traditionally, the Iban collected bat and bird guano, which is highly valued as fertiliser, while the Penan collected the swiftlets’ nests. During the harvesting season (early September to March), nest collectors can be seen on towering bamboo structures wedged against the cave roof.

High demand for bird’s nests has increasingly caused collectors to overharvest and sometimes to throw away hatchlings. Major efforts are now being taken to reverse the trend. The national park management is working closely with stakeholders on the sustainability of farming practices, and also reducing other external pressures on the populations of bats and birds in the caves.

Lambir Hills National ParkTIME FROM MIRI: 45 MINS

Hike to waterfalls

The star attractions of 69-sq-km Lambir Hills National Park are dozens of waterfalls, a cool pool where you can take a dip and a network of walking trails through mixed dipterocarp and kerangas (heath) forests.

The park, which covers a range of low sandstone hills, is home to an extraordinary variety of plants and animals. There are 237 species of birds, including eight kinds of hornbill, and 24 species of frog – and more are being identified all the time.

Day visitors are allowed to enter the park until 3pm. Bring decent walking shoes and sufficient water. The interconnected, colour-coded trails branch off four primary routes and lead to 14 destinations. Rangers, based in the wooden pavilion at the trailhead, can supply you with a map and are happy to make suggestions. Make sure you get back to park HQ before 4pm, unless you’re heading out for a night walk with a licensed guide.

From park HQ, the Main Trail follows a small river, Sungai Liam, past two attractive waterfalls to the 25m-high Latak Waterfall (1km; 15 to 20 minutes one way), which has a picnic area, changing rooms, a rain shelter and a refreshing pool suitable for swimming. It can get pretty crowded at weekends and on holidays. You’re likely to find more tranquillity along the path to Tengkorong Waterfall, a somewhat strenuous 6km walk (one way) from park HQ.

Another more challenging trail, steep in places, goes to the summit of Bukit Lambir (465m; 7km one way from park HQ), which also affords fine views. Keep an eye out for changes in the vegetation, including wild orchids, as the elevation rises.

Lambir Hills National Park | Fabio Lamanna/shutterstock ©

MarudiTIME FROM MIRI: 90 MINS

Visit the site of the famous truce between Dakay tribes

Established in 1883 as an administrative and trading post on the Sungai Baram, this quiet town’s key sight is hilltop Fort Hose. The wooden fort was destroyed by fire in 1994 but reconstructed according to its original dimensions and materials two years later. It houses an interesting small museum that focuses on the history of the peacemaking between the many tribes in Baram in 1899. Beside the fort is the rather forlorn-looking Lake Gardens park.

Every three years Marudi comes alive for the Baram Boat Regatta. Its spacious and modern central square is marked by a decorative arch depicting long boat rowers racing at this festival. Nearby, facing the river, is the incredibly ornate Tua Pek Kong, a Taoist Chinese temple.

A couple of good places to eat and drink are 96 Graus for great coffee and kaya jam toast, and Little House for shaved-ice desserts.

PEACE ON THE BARAM RIVER

Known by the Kayan as Telang Usan, the Sungai Baram is Sarawak’s second-largest river. Along its 400km live many different tribes including the Narums of Marudi and the Kelabits at the headwaters of Baram.

Prior to the late 19th century, the region was infamous for tribal conflicts that emerged from competition for fertile lands and valuable resources. But in 1899 peace between the tribes was negotiated in Marudi. As part of this great event boat races between the tribes were held. This was the foundation of the Baram Boat Regatta, held every three years (the next one is in 2026).

Gunung Mulu National Park

AMAZING CAVES | CHALLENGING TREKKING | ABUNDANT NATURE

Also known as Gunung Mulu World Heritage Area, this park is one of Southeast Asia’s most majestic nature destinations. Home to caves of mind-boggling proportions, otherworldly geological phenomena such as The Pinnacles, and species-rich, old-growth tropical rainforest that’s spread over 17 vegetation zones, this is truly one of the world’s wonders.

Among the remarkable features in this 554-sq-km park are its two highest peaks, Gunung Mulu (2376m) and Gunung Api (1710m) and Deer Cave, the world’s largest cave passage open to the public. In between are rugged karst mountains, deep gorges with crystal-clear rivers and a mosaic of habitats supporting incredibly diverse wildlife. Mulu offers some of the most accessible jungle trekking in Malaysia. Two nights is the absolute minimum to spend here if you’re going to get any real sense of the park’s majesty; set aside five days if you’re planning a multiday trek.

SIGHTS

1  Gunung Mulu National Park

2  Mulu Discovery Centre

3  Tree Top Tower

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

4  Botanical Heritage Trail

5  Clearwater Connection

6  Deer Cave & Lang Cave

7  Langang Cave

8  Mulu Canopy Skywalk

9  Night Walk

10  Paku Valley Loop

11  Racer Cave

12  Sarawak Chamber

13  Wind Cave & Clearwater Cave

EATING

14  Bamboo Cafe

15  Cafe Mulu

16  Good Luck Cave’fe Mulu

SHOPPING

17  Batu Bungan Handicrafts Market

TRANSPORT

18  Mulu Airport

GETTING AROUND

Unless you hike in on the Headhunters’ Trail, the only way to get to Mulu is by air. MASwings flies direct from Miri, Kuching and Kota Kinabalu. Book a few weeks ahead if possible from July to September. Flights are occasionally delayed.

Park HQ is an unshaded 1.5km walk from the airport. Minibuses and SUVs meet incoming flights; a ride to park HQ costs RM5 per person. To get to the airport, book transport at park HQ or just outside the park at Buduk Ubong Homestay or the Good Luck Cave’fe Mulu.

Mulu’s Gigantic Deer Cave

Enter the bat cave

The only way to see the inside of Mulu’s spectacular caves – the biggest draw here – is with a guide. The superstar ‘show cave’ is the astounding Deer Cave – over 2km long and 174m high. It’s the world’s largest cave passage that’s open to the public and home to two to three million bats, belonging to 12 species (more than in any other single cave in the world), who cling to the roof in a seething black mass as they gear up for their evening flight.

Every day between 4pm and 6pm (unless it’s raining), the bats exit the cave in spiralling, twirling clouds; their corkscrew trajectory is designed to foil the dinner plans of bat hawks perched on the surrounding cliffs. The bats usually stay home when there’s rain – Mulu gets 4m to 6m a year – because echolocation (the way they find prey) is not very good at homing in on flying insects amid an onslaught of raindrops. Bring a torch for use both inside the cave and on the walk back. For information and informative videos, check out muluparkbatcams.com. The same guided walk also takes in Lang Cave, renowned for its incredible stalactites and stalagmites.

TOP TIP

Park accommodation, cave tours and treks often book out well in advance, so reserve ahead via the park’s website (mulupark.com) or a tour agency. Don’t buy plane tickets until your trekking or caving dates are confirmed.

Clearwater Cave | Nora Yusuf/shutterstock ©

MULU ITINERARIES

Three-Day Visit

Day One: Fly into Mulu, have lunch, then take the afternoon tour to Deer and Lang caves. Watch millions of bats exit Deer Cave for their evening feeding.

Day Two: Visit Wind and Clearwater caves. After lunch, paddle a kayak from the park HQ to the Mulu Marriott Resort. Join the guided night walk.

Day Three: Rise early for the first canopy skywalk tour. Depending on your flight you may have time for a self-guided walk near the park HQ.

Five-Day Visit

Follow the above itinerary for Day One. On Day Two go on the canopy skywalk in the morning, then go kayaking. Set aside days three to five for The Pinnacles trek.

By Boat to Two Show Caves

Wind and Clearwater caves

Zipping along the Sungei Melinau in a flat-bottomed alut (longboat), low in the water as the pilot navigates past boulders and rapids, is a bracing way to start the day. But that’s the only way to get to the Wind Cave, named for its cooling breezes, whose several chambers include the cathedral-like King’s Chamber, filled with dreamlike forests of stalagmites and columns. The chirping you hear is swiftlets using echolocation to find their way around in the darkness (bats’ echolocation signals are generally too high-pitched for humans to hear).

Next stop is the incredible Clearwater Cave, named after its mysterious subterranean river, whose extended network of caverns and passageways, located deep under Gunung Api, cover a total distance of an unbelievable 256km – and that’s just what’s been discovered so far. After visiting the caves you can take a refreshing dip in the cool waters of a sandy swimming spot, so bring a swimsuit. It’s also a nice spot to enjoy a packed lunch before heading back to the park HQ.

Tours include a stop on the way at the riverside village of Batu Bungan, a Penan settlement set up several decades ago by the government as part of a campaign to discourage their nomadic lifestyle. The handicrafts market here is excellent and includes rattan woven baskets and mats, as well as colourful beadwork.

All up this tour takes about 3½ hours, leaving time for another activity in the afternoon.

EATING AT MULU: OUR PICKS

Café Mulu $$ Excellent Western breakfasts (including pancakes), Mulu laksa, Indian curries and vegetarian options at park HQ.

Good Luck Cave’fe Mulu $ Just outside the par. Serves noodle and rice dishes for lunch and dinner; most popular for drinking beer at night.

Bamboo Cafe $ A down-to-earth restaurant a couple of minutes’ walk outside the park gate; its cheap eats are a favourite of park staff.

Mulu Marriott Resort $$$ As upmarket as it gets for Mulu with prices to match. The menu includes Asian, Western and vegetarian dishes.

Take the Fast Lane Tour

Experience total darkness

The three-hour Fast Lane Tour (named after a shortcut between two cave entrances) takes visitors to Langang Cave, known for its extraordinary stalactites and stalagmites.

There are two really cool things about this walk. The first is that the cave does not have any installed lighting, so the only illumination you’ll have is what you carry in. This means that when the guide suggests that everyone turn off their torches, you’ll have the rare opportunity to experience total darkness. The second is that because there is only one Fast Lane Tour a day, when you arrive no humans will have been inside for almost 24 hours, making it much more likely that you’ll spot fauna such as blind cave crabs and possibly blue racer snakes. No light means no photosynthesis, of course, so all the organic matter that feeds the crabs has to be flown in by swiftlets (in the form of moss to build nests) and bats (guano).

The trail out to Langang passes by a fallen strangler fig that has been cross-sectioned to reveal the remains of its original host tree trapped deep inside.

MULU INSIDER TIPS

Alison Pritchard runs Borneo Ethical Adventures (borneoethical.com) and was the park manager at Mulu for two years from 2014. She has tips for off-the-beaten track experiences around the park.

Ba’Desai Waterfall

Hire a guide and take a longboat to the Penan village of Long Iman, from where it’s a 45-minute walk to the beautiful Ba’Desai Waterfall.

Longboat trip

Any longboat trip is just amazing. Go early morning for birdlife or late afternoon to watch the sunset.

Camp 1

Book a guide and spend a night out at Camp 1, a less-travelled 20km return hike on the way to Gunung Mulu. There’s a firepit, and the views across the river to the jutting cliffs are breathtaking.

Exploring Mulu on Your Own

Jungle walks without a guide

Unaccompanied rainforest walks are possible at Mulu, so long as you inform the park office or, when it’s closed, someone across the path in the park security building. If no one is around, just write your name on the whiteboard; don’t forget to erase it when you get back. The trails, on which you’ll encounter sublime natural beauty at every turn, are well marked and interconnected, so by using the park’s trail map it’s easy to link them together to create your own route.

Routes you can choose from – some of which were originally Penan hunting trails – include the Botanical Heritage Trail, an easy 1.5km boardwalk loop with information panels on rainforest flora; and the Paku Valley Loop, an 8km circuit that runs alongside the Sungai Melinau to the Paku Waterfall (3km), where it’s possible to swim. You can also head to the Tree Top Tower, a 30m-high bird hide; drop by park security to reserve a time slot and pick up the key (deposit RM50). Birds are most numerous from 5am to 9am and from 4pm to 8pm.

GUIDES & RESERVATIONS AT MULU

For almost all of Mulu’s cave tours and treks, visitors must be accompanied by a Sarawak Forestry licensed guide. Activities booked directly through the park and led by the park’s rangers are reasonably priced but are often booked up well in advance.

Tour agencies charge considerably more but also supply extras, such as meals, and may offer more flexibility when it comes to advance booking and tour group sizes.

A last-minute trip to Mulu is possible as trekking and caving slots do sometimes open up at the eleventh hour. Groups must consist of at least four participants (including the guide) so that if someone is injured, one person can stay back while the other two seek help.

Drop by the Mulu Discovery Centre

Learn about the biodiversity hot spot

Accessible interpretation of the surrounding nature is one of Mulu’s great strengths. There are signboards along the park’s main trails and at key sights. The excellent Discovery Centre, situated between park HQ’s registration counter and the cafe, presents an outstanding introduction to the park as a ‘biodiversity hot spot’ (a place with a particularly high number of plant, bird and animal species per hectare) and to its extraordinary geology, ecology and fauna.

A colour-coded map shows where you can find nine different types of equatorial forest habitats, from lowland mixed dipterocarp to upper montane. There are also explanations of how, over the aeons, percolating rainwater and underground rivers dissolve limestone to create vast cave networks. A leisurely perusal of its exhibits is highly recommended, especially if you’ll be doing any trekking.

Go on a Night Walk

Frogs, snakes and phasmids

Having an eagle-eyed ranger point out superbly camouflaged jungle dwellers is as astonishing as it is eye-opening. Creatures you’re likely to come across on the 1½- to two-hour night walk include tree frogs just 1cm long, enormous spiders, vine snakes that are a dead ringer for a vine, and stick insects (phasmids) – extraordinary creatures up to 30cm long that look like they’ve been assembled from pencils and toothpicks. All the sounds you hear come from insects and frogs.

If you put your torch up to eye level and shine it into the foliage, the eyes of spiders and other creatures will reflect brightly back. Don’t wear insect repellent or you risk repelling some of the insects you’re trying to see. Mosquitoes are not a problem. Departures are at 7pm or 7.30pm. If you order dinner at Café Mulu before heading out, you can pick it up when you return (though make sure you’re back before 9.30pm). Some eateries outside the park stay open later.

You can take the night-walk trail on your own, without a guide, after 8pm – make sure you inform someone in the park security office or write your name on the whiteboard. Between 5pm and 8pm you can design your own night walk by taking trails that the guided group won’t be using.

Wobbling Along the Canopy Skywalk

Walkways in the treetops

Climbing up into the canopy is the best way to see what a tropical rainforest is all about, because most of the flora and fauna do their thing high in the trees, not down on the ground, where less than 2% of the forest’s total sunlight is available (that’s why many ground-dwelling plants have such huge leaves). Mulu’s 450m-long Canopy Skywalk is anchored to a series of forest giants, each with a viewing platform where you can steady your nerves and read the stimulating signage before crossing the next undulating, swaying ‘bridge’ suspended 25m above the forest floor. This 1½- to two-hour walk has five daily departures; the earlier in the morning you leave, the better your chance of seeing monkeys, hornbills and other creatures.

Canopy Skywalk | Filip Baumruk/shutterstock ©

MULU TREK PACKING LIST

Essentials include hiking shoes, plenty of water, a rain poncho, a first-aid kit and a torch.

For overnight treks, you may also need bedding. At Camp 5, a sleeping-bag liner or a sarong is sufficient (mattresses are provided) but Camp 4 can get quite chilly (15ºC) so a sleeping bag is a good idea; some park rangers rent them out privately. Unless you don’t mind sleeping on wooden boards, park HQ can loan you a sleeping pad.

On treks booked through the park, you have to bring enough food for all your meals. If you’re wary of drinking the rainwater collected at shelters, bring water-purification tablets (boiling may also be an option).

Tackle an Adventure Cave

Scramble through underground passages

Cave routes that require special equipment and some degree of caving experience are known as ‘adventure caves’. Options include the Sarawak Chamber, a demanding 10- to 15-hour adventure; the Clearwater Connection, whose six-hour route includes underground rivers and scrambling; and Racer Cave, which involves climbing and roped-up sections.

Caving routes are graded ‘beginner’, ‘intermediate’ and ‘advanced’; guides determine each visitor’s suitability based on their previous caving experience. If you have no background in spelunking, you will be required to do an intermediate route before moving on to an advanced one. Minimum ages are 12 for intermediate and 16 for advanced. Fees include a helmet and a head torch. Bring closed shoes, a first-aid kit and clothes you won’t mind getting dirty or wet. Heavy rains may cause caves to flood.

Adventure caving is not for everyone – halfway into a cave passage is not the best time to discover that you suffer from claustrophobia, are afraid of the dark or simply don’t like slithering in the mud with all sorts of unknown creepy-crawlies.

MULU PRACTICALITIES

There is no ATM at Mulu so bring plenty of cash. In a pinch, park staff can provide a cash advance of up to RM300 for a 2% fee. Payments to the park (for accommodation, hikes and food at the cafe) can be made by credit card.

At the time of research there was no wi-fi coverage at park HQ; instead use data on your smartphone to access the internet. DiGi and Maxis works best at park HQ (staff may be able to sell you a DiGi SIM card). There is wi-fi in the lobby of the Marriott Resort.

You can store your luggage for no charge at the park’s 24-hour security office, across the path from the registration counters.

Multiday Trekking Options

Test your endurance

A veritable forest of 45m-high, razor-sharp limestone spires, the The Pinnacles protrudes from the forested flanks of Gunung Api. Getting there involves a boat ride and, between two overnight stays at Camp 5, an unrelentingly steep 2.4km ascent. There’s plenty of clambering on all fours, and the rocks are sharp. The final 400m section involves some serious climbing and use of ladders, most of them little more than spaced-out metal brackets drilled into the rock, requiring a steady nerve and good balance to avoid falling onto the spikes below. Coming down is just as taxing. All up, it’s an intense three-day expedition.

The gruelling ascent to the summit of Gunung Mulu (2376m) is a classic Borneo adventure. If you’re very fit and looking for a challenge, this 24km, three-night, four-day trek may be for you. Book at least a week ahead (a month in peak season). Near the summit you may spend much of your time inside clouds; a fleece jacket is the best way to ward off the damp and cold. The steep trail – which is slippery when wet – passes through both limestone and sandstone formations. Fauna you might see on the way includes gibbons and possibly sun bears.

The Headhunters’ Trail links the park’s Camp 5 with the road to Limbang and is an overland alternative to flying in or out of Mulu. The route, taken by very few trekkers these days, is named after the Kayan war parties that used to make their way up Sungai Melinau from the Baram area to the Melinau Gorge, then dragged their canoes overland to Sungai Terikan to raid the peoples of the Limbang region. The park does not offer guided trips, so for details contact a tour agency.

Paddling Along the Sungai Melinau

Kayaking and boat tours

At 3.30pm daily there’s a kayaking tour with a guide along the Sungai Melinau from the jetty at park HQ to the Mulu Marriott Resort. The paddle takes around 1½ hours, needs a minimum of two people, and incudes a boat ride back to the park HQ. It’s a great opportunity to get out from under the canopy and look back at the enormity of the Mulu mountain ranges.

You can also sign up for excursions by longboat from the park HQ to the Penan longhouse village of Long Iman, followed by a trek to Ba’Desai Waterfall swimming spot (minimum three people). The fee for this trip also depends on whether you just have a Penan guide or also have a park guide for extra interpretation.

Kelabit Highlands

MOUNTAIN SCENERY | TREKKING | LONGHOUSES

Splendidly isolated in Sarawak’s remote northeastern corner, the Kelabit (keh-lah-bit) Highlands are something like Shangri-la. At 1000m above sea level the mountain air is cooler, and the pace of life slow and stress-free. The villages are inhabited mainly by Orang Ulu (upriver people) – Kelabits, Kenyah, Lun Bawang, Penan and Sa’ban.

Bario, the highland’s largest settlement, consists of 13 ‘villages’ spread over a beautiful valley where farmers grow the renowned local rice and pineapples. There are many homestays, a few of which are in traditional longhouses. The main activity is hiking from longhouse to longhouse along old forest trails. You can also search out ancient megaliths and burial sites. Other settlements you can fly into include Ba’Kelalan and Long Banga.

Above all it’s the local hospitality that will win you over. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself extending your stay here by days, or even weeks.

SIGHTS

1  Bario Asal Lemba’a

2  Bario Memorial Park

3  Teripun

SLEEPING

4  Bario Valley Homestay

5  Labang Longhouse Lodge

6  NancyHarriss Guesthouse

7  Ngimat Ayu’s House

EATING

8  Iskander Cafe

9  Nes 72 Cafe

SHOPPING

10  Marketplace

11  Y2K

INFORMATION

12  Pusat Internet Komuniti

Kelabit carving | Magic Orb Studio/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

MASwings flights link Miri with Bario, Ba’Kelalan and Long Banga; some via Marudi. You can also fly between Ba’Kelalan and Bario and Bario and Long Banga. Weather, especially high winds, can cause delays and cancellations.

You can drive to the highlands but it’s a long and rough journey, especially on the 33km of potholed logging roads between Pa Dalih and Bario. The journey between Bario and Miri can take from 10 to 24 hours. Chartering a four-passenger 4WD costs RM1500 to RM1800 one-way. Miri to Ba’Kelalan by road takes up to nine hours.

The only way from Bario to Ba’Kelalan is a three- to four-day hike.

Learn About Bario’s Orang Ulu

Community museum and old longhouse

Before the armed conflict between Malaysia and Indonesia known as the Konfrontasi (1963–66), Bario was a small village consisting of just one longhouse, Bario Asal Lemba’a. In 1963, residents of longhouses near the frontier were resettled here by the new Malaysian authorities for their safety. The community has slowly expanded ever since to become the ‘capital’ of the highlands. Predominantly Kelabit, you will see old women here who have the elongated earlobes and hand and lower-leg tattoos that were once a status symbol among this Orang Ulu tribe.

In the town centre, next to the marketplace, is the Teripun, a handsome wooden building constructed in 2015. It’s decorated with arit vine motif panels and topped by a pair of colourful carved hornbills. Here you’ll find informative displays on the highland rainforest and the culture of the Kelabit and Penan, megaliths, and Tom Harrisson, who spent two years living in Bario after WWII and set up the community’s first school. There are portraits of Kelabit leaders and wonderful images of Bario back in the 1970s (many of the younger people shown are still around). It is open from 8am to 1pm except on Sundays; for a tour, call or WhatsApp Joel on 013-817 1733. Teripun is the focal point of Bario’s popular Food Festival, which happens each July.

The current Bario Asal Lemba’a, around a 15-minute walk from the centre of Bario, is an all-wood, 23-door longhouse with a traditional layout. On the tetel (enclosed front verandah), each family has a hearth, dining table and, in some cases, a living-room couch and a flatscreen TV. On the other side of the individual family units is the tawa’, a wide enclosed hall over 100m long – used for weddings, funerals, baby-naming ceremonies and hanging portraits that tell each family’s history. There are several homestays here, including Bario Valley Homestay. If you’re not staying here, it’s possible to drop by for a visit (the residents charge RM5).

TOP TIP

There are no banks or ATMs in the Kelabit Highlands, so bring plenty of ringgits in small-denomination notes. You may be able to pay for some things (including guesthouses and guides) with an e-wallet, such as the one offered by wise.com.

Hang Out at the Marketplace

Bario’s focal point

The marketplace is Bario’s compact commercial centre, a crescent of small eateries and shops, some of which sell handicrafts and the region’s famous rice, salt and other crops. If they are in season, be sure to sample the super-sweet pineapples.

The main reason for heading here is to hang out with locals who love to grab a bite and socialise, especially for breakfast or during the small Saturday market (about 7.30am to 11am), at which a few people sell local specialities such as nu’ba ubi (mashed tapioca leaf).

To kill more time, you could amble over to NancyHarriss Guesthouse to take a closer look at the carved-up wreckage of a 1960s RAF plane that skidded off the old Bario runway. The ever-entrepreneurial Nancy has made a feature of it beside a big ‘I love Bario’ sign that looks very picturesque with the cloudy skies reflecting the surrounding paddy fields. If you’re not staying or eating at Nancy’s she’ll charge RM5 for entry.

TOM HARRISSON

Ornithologist, soldier, explorer, ethnologist, archaeologist – Tom Harrisson was all these things and more during his eventful life (1911–76). In Bario he is best remembered for parachuting into the highlands in March 1945 with seven other British and Australian solidiers to enlist the help of the Orang Ulu to fight the Japanese. One of the monuments in Bario Memorial Park – a giant sapé (traditional stringed instrument) made of shiny stainless steel – commemorates this event.

From 1947 to 1966, Harrisson was the curator of Kuching’s Sarawak Museum. During this time, he and his wife Barbara began exploring the Niah caves. Harrisson’s fascinating and controversial life is detailed in Judith M Heimann’s The Most Offending Soul Alive.

Climb Prayer Mountain

Bario’s hilltop metal cross

Lording over Bario from atop the summit of Prayer Mountain (Buduk Arur Talun) is a large stainless-steel cross erected in 2015. Beside it is a smaller wooden cross from 1973. The peak is a 5km hike from central Bario.

Although it’s easy to find the route up the mountain, the path is steep and slippery. It pays to hire a guide to lead the way, especially if you set off in the dark to catch the sunrise. Often the mountain is shrouded by clouds first thing, but don’t leave it too late to do this walk as it can get hot around midday and early afternoon.

Your guide will almost certainly transport you by motorbike or car to the base of the trail at Kampung Arur Dalan. This will leave you with just the final 1km hike to summit from where there are amazing views of the Bario valley. Two-thirds of the way up is a rustic wooden church. The round trip will take about two hours.

EATING & DRINKING IN BARIO: OUR PICKS

NancyHarriss $$ Call ahead to arrange a delicious meal here. Dishes may include BBQ chicken wings, water buffalo and local fish.

Iskander Cafe $ At Zara Homestay, serving fried rice and noodle dishes as well as Indonesian energy drinks such as Extra Joss.

Marketplace $ Home to a few basic cafes selling mainly generic fried noodle and rice dishes. Best for breakfast and an early lunch.

Nes 72 Cafe $ Try its bakso – Indonesian noodles in a peppery soup with beef balls. It also has Bario’s liveliest pub with karaoke.

Trekking, Kelabit Highlands | Jon Duncan/shutterstock ©

STAYING CONNECTED IN THE HIGHLANDS

The highland communities have reasonable cellphone coverage on the major mobile networks. Y2K, a general store in Bario, sells prepaid SIM cards and credit top-ups for the satellite-based CONNECTme NOW wi-fi service.

Most homestays and guesthouses offer wi-fi, although you’ll likely have to purchase a code to access CONNECTme NOW. Computers and wi-fi are available at the Pusat Internet Komuniti, next to the Bario Memorial Garden, which is open from 8am (1pm on Sunday) to 5pm. You can also buy some books and craft souvenirs here.

If trekking for several days, bring extra cellphone and camera batteries, as charging will not be possible.

Day Treks Out of Bario

Mysterious stone carvings

From Bario it’s a 1½-hour walk to Pa’ Umor, and another 15 minutes to Arur Bilit Farm, home to Batu Narit, an impressive stone carving featuring a human in a spread-eagled position among its designs.

Take the log bridge across the small river to reach Batu Ipak. Legend has it that this stone formation was created when an angry warrior named Upai Semering pulled out his parang (machete) and took a wrathful swing at the rock, cutting it in two.

This circuit should take four or five hours – maybe a tad longer if your guide is a good storyteller. Around Pa’ Umor there’s a network of hiking trails linking three homestays. Contact Pa’ Umor–based Rian John Pasan (tel/WhatsApp 013-812 8851; rianjohnpasan@gmail.com) to establish trekking itineraries.

Another possibility is the trail (four to six hours) to Pa’ Lungan, 17km from Bario. About halfway along is Batu Arit, a large stone featuring bird carvings and humanoid figures with heart-shaped faces. At Pa’ Lungan is Batu Ritung, a 2m stone table (probably a burial site, although no one is sure). Also near Pa’ Lungan is Perupun, a huge pile of stones of a type assembled to bury the valuables of the dead who had no descendants to receive their belongings. It’s also possible to drive to Pa’ Lungan.

The going rate for a day trip with a guide is RM150 per day. A good Bario-based guide is Paul Anis (tel/WhatsApp 014-595 7358; paulanis93101013@gmail.com), who is also an experienced photographer.

Multiday Treks Through the Rainforest

Remote longhouses and mountain peaks

The temperate highlands offer some of the best long-distance jungle trekking in Borneo, taking in farming villages, rugged peaks and supremely remote Orang Ulu settlements. Most trails traverse a variety of primary and secondary rainforest, as well as areas that were clear-cut or selectively logged a decade or two ago.

There are a few popular hiking destinations from Bario. Ba’Kelalan is a three- to four-day one-way trek. The five-day return hike to Batu Lawi takes you to two massive limestone spires (visible from the left side of the plane on the flight from Miri). At 2424m, Sarawak’s highest mountain Gunung Murud in Pulong Tau National Park is a popular six- or seven-day return trek.

While the highlands are certainly cooler than Sarawak’s coastal regions, it’s still hard work trekking up here and you should be in fairly good shape. Be prepared to encounter leeches – many trails are literally crawling with them. Detailed topographical maps of Sarawak exist, but it’s nearly impossible to get a hold of them.

If you’re connecting the dots between remote longhouses, expect to pay around RM100 to RM120 per person for a night’s sleep plus three meals. If your route requires that you camp in the forest, you may be asked to bring along food for everyone in the group. Equipment for jungle camping (eg sleeping bag, hammock, mosquito net and bed roll) cannot be purchased or hired in Bario, so bring your own.

HIRING A GUIDE

To safely explore the Kelabit Highlands and understand the environment hiring a local guide is essential. For multiday trekking, it’s best to make arrangements a week or two ahead of time.

Homestays and guesthouses can connect you with guides they know and rely on. The going rate for both a guide and multiday porter – required for safety reasons in case the lead guide gets injured or sick – is RM300 a day. If you’re trekking in only one direction (eg Bario to Ba’Kelalan), you will need to also pay for the time it takes them to walk home.

Some itineraries involve either river trips (highly recommended if the water is high enough) or travel by 4WD – naturally, these significantly increase the cost.

Lun Bawang Villages of Ba’Kelalan

Bird-watching hot spot

Just 4km from the border with Kalimantan, Indonesia, the community of Ba’Kelalan is made up of nine Lun Bawang villages. A popular destination for treks from Bario, Ba’Kelalan sits on a hillside in an attractive valley. When the paddy fields are flooded after harvest, the effect of the mirror-like surface reflecting the surrounding mountains is spectacular.

This is a deeply religious community – at the head of the large grassy playing field that acts as the town square sits the Borneo Evangelical Mission church. The church seems incongruously large for such a small town, but at times it’s packed with worshippers from far and wide who come to Ba’Kelalan to climb nearby Gunung Murud, known to some as ‘prayer mountain’.

Ba’Kelalan is also one of Sarawak’s best spots for bird-watching. Twitchers come here to spot ruddy cuckoo doves, oriental bay owls and broadbills.

FLIGHT TICKETS & WEIGHT LIMITS

Flights to the Kelabit Highlands are cheap thanks to government subsidies, but demand often exceeds supply (especially around Christmas and in July), so book well ahead. Only five seats on each flight are sold online; the other four are sold the day of the flight to travellers who arrive at the airport early.

Because the highland airports have short runways, flights to the region have strict weight limits: only nine (of 18) seats are allowed to be filled, checked luggage is limited to 10kg (you pay RM1 for each extra kilo). At check-in, passengers are weighed on a scale together with their luggage. It’s also advisable to get to the airports at least an hour ahead as flights sometimes depart early.

Sip Liberica Coffee in Long Banga

A Sa’ban and Kenyah village

To really get off the beaten track in the highlands, consider adding Long Banga to your itinerary. Set in rolling hills covered with secondary forest beside Sungai Puak, this is a uniquely mixed village of Sa’ban and Kenyah ethnic groups living peacefully under one headman.

Of the village’s three evangelical churches, the largest is the primary church, rebuilt in 2015. Elsewhere you’ll notice wooden rice-storage barns on stilts and a scattering of houses – there are no longhouses here. Possible activities include boat trips along the river to the nearby Penan village of Long Lamai or the Sa’ban village of Long Balong, or day treks to waterfalls. But mostly you’ll find yourself hanging out with the friendly villagers, several of whom head to the airstrip waiting to see who comes and goes on the four weekly flights – a few women sell fresh produce and things like homemade crackers here.

With support from the Kuching-based coffee gurus Earthlings, Long Banga is developing a reputation for its high-quality, single-origin liberica beans. Sample the ground coffee, as well as infusions made from dried coffee flowers or the bean husk (cascara) when you stay at Billeng Lemdin Homestay opposite the airstrip.

Ba’kelalan viewpoint | Dayung Bisina/shutterstock ©

HIGHLAND SALT PRODUCTION

The Kelabit Highlands are famous for salt (tudtu’ in Kelabit). Mineral-rich water from saline springs, such as at Main Keramut (an hour’s walk from Pa’ Umor), or the Buduk Bui Salt Factory in Ba’Kelalan, is boiled in giant vats over a roaring wood fire until all that’s left is high-iodine salt. The condiment goes perfectly with traditional dishes such as deer and wild boar.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Kuching

Telang Usan Hotel $ A simple but spotless hotel offering outstanding value; has friendly staff and an excellent Dayak restaurant.

Meritin $$ In the heart of New Chinatown, this contemporary-styled hotel is a good low-midrange option. RM178 for a room with no window, including breakfast.

Marian $$ Dating from 1885, this one-time boarding house for women is now a charming boutique hotel oozing atmosphere and it has a fantastic hilltop position.

Riverside Majestic Astana Wing $$ Rooms are modern and spacious. When booking, ask for a room with river views – one of the best vistas in Kuching.

Ranee $$$ An atmospheric boutique hotel decorated with local antiques, in two rebuilt shophouses.

Waterfront Hotel $$$ Perched atop the Plaza Merdeka mall, this independent upmarket hotel has large, stylishly decorated rooms, impressive art and a large indoor pool with a view.

Santubong Peninsula

Nanga Damai Luxury Homestay $$ Run by a hospitable Anglo-Sarawakian couple, with a beautiful garden, an 8m pool and nicely decorated, comfortable rooms.

Permai Rainforest Resort $$ Accommodation ranges from rustic cabins to romantic air-conditioned treehouses 6m off the ground.

Culvert $$ Clifftop compound of concrete tubes artfully converted into boutique-style rooms. There are a couple of pools and a private beach.

Cove 55 $$$ Luxurious boutique hotel on the east side of peninsula. No beach but an enormous pool perched over the mangroves.

Matang

Retreat 2 @ Serapi Matang $$ Comfortable, modern cottages and two-bed apartments, as well as camping (bring your own tent) in a lovely landscaped site with a river running through it.

Kubah National Park $$ Simple accommodation options include a hostel and private wood cabins that are good for families. Useful for those taking the night walk to Frog Pond.

Lundu & Sematan

Union Yes Retreat $$ Well-maintained, family-friendly resort on Pantai Siar, near Lundu. It has a decent-sized swimming pool and beach-facing restaurant.

Sematan Palm Beach Resort $$ Modest resort beside a lovely beach. Facilities include a restaurant, large pool, and bicycle, boat and bodyboard rental. Rates include half board.

Telok Melano

Hornbill Homestay $$ Has seven cabins, all with private bathroom, just 60m from the beach; also serves simple meals at its cafe. Tel/WhatsApp 012-827 2497.

Fanorama Homestay $$ A wooden house with a verandah in a lovely spot set back from the beach. Tel/WhatsApp 013-809 9914.

Annah Rais & Bau

Kellon Homestay $$ At No 5 Kupo Saba, Annah Rais. Some rooms have air-con. The family also runs a cafe opposite. Rates are full board. Phone 016-892 2060.

Heritage Windcave Bar & Stay $$ Popular with rock climbers, this place is walking distance from Bau’s Wind Cave. Rooms are modern and have air-con and an attached bathroom.

Saloma Village Stay $$$ Delightful off-the-grid guesthouse, 6.5km south of Annah Rais in the Bidayuh village of Kampung Annah Sadir. Rates are full board and include activities.

Sibu

Li Hua Hotel $ Sibu’s best-value hotel has spotless rooms on eight floors; staff are professional and friendly.

Tanahmas Hotel $$ As comfortable as it is central, with large rooms, a gleaming marble lobby and an open-air pool.

RH Hotel $$ Sibu’s swankiest hotel offers excellent views, several restaurants and an outdoor pool.

Kapit

New Rejang Inn $$ Well-run, spotless hotel offering the best-value beds in town, steps from the boat terminal. Call 084-796 700.

Loft Palls Urbanstay $$ Handily located above a coin laundrette. Check-in at an office opposite Petronas Station. Pay more for a room with windows. Call 084-797 330.

Belaga & Sungai Asap

Daniel Levoh’s Guesthouse $ Rustic and basic, but overall the best accommodation option in town because it belongs to chief local fixer Daniel Levoh.

Hotel Sing Soon Huat $ Nothing to shout about but clean rooms and the only hotel in Belaga with air-con in the rooms.

Uma Belor Leo Dian $ For a taste of longhouse life, this is a comfortable and welcoming place to stay in Sungai Asap. Rates are very reasonable.

Miri

Kingwood Boutique Hotel $$ Everything here is done conscientiously and with good taste. Comfortable rooms blend modern and heritage decor, and the in-house restaurant is excellent.

Mega Hotel $$ The rooms could do with an upgrade but rates are very good value with what it offers, including a 30m pool with sea views and free city-centre parking.

Mercure Miri City Centre $$$ Miri’s most stylish and contemporary hotel has a great location and appeals with its modern, arty design and facilities.

Gunung Mulu National Park

Buduk Ubong Homestay $ Three rooms with shared bathroom in a house facing the suspension bridge. Tel/WhatsApp 010-528 3634.

Mulu Village $ Near the Marriott, this well-run place offers basic but decent accommodation, as well as a big list of services and excursions.

Benarat Lodge $$ This pool-equipped establishment is the closest thing in the area to a midrange hotel.

National Park Headquarters $$ Comfortable bungalows, lodges, suites and hostel in the best location. Reserve well ahead at mulupark.com.

Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa $$$ As fancy as it gets for Mulu. It’s 2.5km from the park headquarters; free shuttle available.

Bario

NancyHarriss Guesthouse $$ The best place to stay, with spacious private rooms, delicious food and uninterrupted views across the paddy fields to the mountains. Tel/WhatsApp 013-850 5850.

Bario Valley Homestay $$ Run by the very friendly Bulan. Staying here is an amazing way to experience traditional Kelabit longhouse living. Tel/WhatsApp 019-467 4112.

Ngimat Ayu’s House $$ Has eight comfortable rooms, a longhouse-style verandah and paddy views. Owner Scott can be reached on 013-840 6187.

Labang Longhouse Lodge $$ Complete with valley views and full of evocative photographs, each with a story that owners Lucy and David Labang will happily relate.

Long Banga

Chris Homestay & Cafe $ Large, modern home with a gorgeous riverside location and cafe. Run by friendly couple Norani and Philip. Tel/WhatsApp 017-804 1481.

Billeng Lemdin Homestay $ Ludia runs this spotless, charming place. There are some air-con rooms with shared bathroom. Delicious home-cooked food included. Tel/WhatsApp 019-703 2607.

Kuching | Norman Ong/shutterstock ©

Brunei Darussalam

LOW-KEY, OIL-RICH ISLAMIC SULTANATE

Brunei offers pristine rainforests, spectacular mosques, excellent cuisine and, in its capital, the world’s largest settlement built on stilts over the water.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Bandar Seri Begawan | Jaysi/shutterstock ©

A small fragment of a naval empire that once ruled all of Borneo and much of the Philippines, Brunei Darussalam is hugely wealthy thanks to its oil and gas deposits. Petroleum revenues account for more than 60% of the nation’s GDP. It is ruled by an absolute monarch, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, whose image appears to be everywhere and whose net worth is said to be US$30 billion. He’s the 29th sultan in a dynasty stretching back to the 14th century.

kamarulzamanganu/shutterstock ©

Thanks to the country’s riches most Bruneians lead comfortable, modest lives that revolve around family, friends and the Muslim faith practised by over 80% of the population. There are some ostentatious displays of Brunei’s riches in its low-key capital Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), but this is no Dubai: the city’s chief attractions are strolling along its riverside promenade and parks and enjoying excellent dining at bargain prices. Don’t come here looking to party – alcohol is banned under strict Islamic law.

If you take time to slow down and talk with the locals, you may find that the mellow vibe and unhurried pace of life grow on you in this aptly named darussalam (Arabic for ‘abode of peace’). Plus, an incredible 59% of the country is covered by primary rainforests – you can get a sense of the verdant vastness at Ulu Temburong National Park.

THE MAIN AREAS

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

Slow-paced capital city with interesting museums.

BEYOND BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

Forests, parks and long, quiet beaches with family-friendly amenities.

Find Your Way

Sarawak’s Limbang district splits Brunei into two non-contiguous territories: the mainland (western part), home to 97.5% of the population; and the Temburong District, connected to the rest of the country by a 30km bridge.

Plan Your Time

With even Brunei’s remotest areas just an hour or two by car from BSB, it’s easy to visit the jungle one day and lounge on a beach the next.

Ulu Temburong National Park | Shepps/shutterstock ©

A Weekend Break

In Bandar Seri Begawan spend a day visiting Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Wharf, Kampong Ayer and the Royal Regalia Museum. The next day, drive to Ulu Temburong National Park, staying overnight in a riverside lodge. Back in BSB, have dinner at Kaizen Sushi or at one of the restaurants in Gadong or Kiulap.

A Four-Day Stay

Browse the stalls at BSB’s Tamu Kianggeh. Visit the Maritime & Malay Technology Museums before a stroll on the riverfront promenade. Hit the beach at Tutong before sipping tea at the Empire Brunei or having fun at Jerudong Park Playground. Go diving off Muara, or visit Luagan Lalak Recreation Park.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

FEBRUARY

National Day is celebrated on 23 February. Relatively low chance of rain (30% to 40% on a given day).

MARCH TO APRIL

To coincide with the end of Ramadan (in 2025 at the end of March) the sultan opens his palace to visitors for three days.

JULY

The birthday of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah is celebrated on 15 July with a grand ceremonial parade in the centre of BSB.

OCTOBER TO DECEMBER

The rainiest, and slightly coolest, months. The Brunei December Festival brings sports, cultural events and food to BSB.

Bandar Seri Begawan

MUSEUMS | MOSQUES | FOOD

Known locally as Bandar, Brunei’s capital lies on the north bank of Sungai Brunei at a sheltered spot, 12km upriver from Brunei Bay. Up until 1970 it was called Brunei Town but was renamed that year Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) in honour of the 28th Sultan, father of the country’s current ruler.

While it does have gilded flashes of ostentation (as you’d expect for a city built on oil wealth) BSB is mostly understated and laid-back. Urban life revolves around eating, shopping and hanging out with family and friends. With alcohol banned and only a handful of cinemas, there is virtually no nightlife (though a love of karaoke endures).

The key sights include some fine museums where the focus is on Brunei’s imperial history and its multilayered Malay-Muslim culture; the world’s biggest settlement built on stilts; and a lovely waterfront park. The sunsets here can also be spectacular.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Royal Regalia Museum

SIGHTS

2  Brunei Energy Hub

3  Brunei History Centre

4  Dewan Persantapan Lapau

5  House Jabal Rahmah

6  Kampong Ayer

7  Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery

8  Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

9  Pottery House

10  Secretariat Building

11  Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas Park

12  Teng Yun Temple

13  The Big Wall Brunei

14  Time Piece Monument

SLEEPING

15  Kunyit 7 Lodge

EATING

16  Alter Ego Fusion

17  Kaizen Sushi

18  Kimchi

19  Mei Kong

20  Nonya

21  Pasar Pelbagai Barangan Gadong

22  Phongmun Restaurant

23  Tamu Selera

24  The Tuckshop Kopitiam

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

25  Lane Microbrewery & Coffee

26  Roasted Sip

27  Rustique by Absolute

ENTERTAINMENT

28  BandarKu Ceria

SHOPPING

29  Tamu Kianggeh

30  Yayasan Complex

GETTING AROUND

Downtown BSB is easily covered on foot, but to reach further-flung sights and the dining districts of Gadong and Kiulap, you’ll need wheels. If you don’t have a rental car, use the ride-hailing app Dart.

Water taxis – the same motorboats that ferry people to and from Kampung Ayer – are a good option. Crossing straight across the river costs B$1 per person.

There is a cheap public bus system. In the centre, buses stop on Jl Kianggeh, across from the Brunei Hotel. A useful app is TransportBN.

The Stilt Villages of Kampong Ayer

The world’s largest overwater settlement

Founded over 600 years ago, Kampong Ayer is made up of 30 villages connected by around 30km of wooden walkways. Some 9000 people live in a mix of traditional wooden and modern concrete structures all elevated above the river on stilts. Kampong Ayer has its own over-the-water schools, mosques, police stations and fire brigade.

Flag down a motorised water taxi to take you to the Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery, directly across the river from the Royal Wharf. This nicely laid out museum and arts and craft shop focus on the history, customs and crafts of the Kampong Ayer people, and on a millennium of trade with China. A viewing tower offers panoramic views over the stilt houses and walkways.

Wandering around the rickety, banister-less wooden boardwalks is a fascinating introduction to what life in Brunei was like before oil. Pottery House is the Kampong’s most colourful home, a rainbow of painted boardwalks, plant pots and other embellishments. Also painted in a range of bright colours is House Jabal Rahmah – it’s near the Kampong Ayer guesthouse Kunyit 7 Lodge.

TOP TIP

On Sunday mornings main roads in central BSB are closed to vehicles for a street festival called BandarKu Ceria (BKC). Stalls are set up along Jl Sultan Omar Ail and Jl Pemancha.

STOLLING THROUGH BSB TO THE RIVER

A good way to get a sense of BSB’s laid-back vibe and its architectural sights is on a walk – best done late in the afternoon. Aim to arrive at the riverfront by around 6pm as the sunsets here can be spectacular.

Start at the 1 Royal Regalia Museum, which with its domed roof sets the Islamic tone for much of the architecture to come. Opposite is the scalloped, gilded roof and ornate metal fence of the ceremonial hall 2 Dewan Persantapan Lapau. Heading south along Jl Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien will bring you to the 1953 3 Secretariat Building; look for the frieze on the facade depicting the people of Brunei at that time. In the middle of the road is the striking 4 Time Piece Monument, constructed in 1959 and the point from which all distances from the capital are measured. Make a brief detour along Jl Elizabeth Dua to view the red-painted 5 Teng Yun Temple, a focal point for Brunei’s Chinese community. Return to Jl Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien, continue down to Jl Pemancha and turn right to find Jl Roberts. Towards the end of this street is a huge piece of wall art, 6 The Big Wall Brunei, a government project to liven up Bandar. Continue towards the riverside promenade known as the Royal Wharf. Inside the 1950s Customs House is the 7 Brunei Energy Hub, which takes a high-tech look at the nation’s petroleum industry. Follow the promenade westward past the 8 Yayasan Complex to the beautifully landscaped park 9 Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas, from where you can admire the 10 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque through a giant frame.

The Opulent Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Explore an ethereal gold-domed mosque

Named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei (the late father of the current sultan), downtown Bandar’s most prominent mosque is one of the most beautiful Islamic structures in Southeast Asia. A 3.5-million-piece glass mosaic overlaying real gold leaf covers the main dome and the 52m-high minaret is the tallest building in central BSB. Inside, the floor and walls are made from the finest Italian marble and the chandeliers were crafted in England.

Outside, the artificial lagoon serves as a reflecting pool, mirroring the gleaming domes. The ceremonial boat sitting in the lagoon is a replica of a 16th-century mahligai (royal barge).

Come evening, Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas (Golden Jubilee Crown Park), between the mosque and the river, turns into the focal point of city-centre social life. When the weather is dry, people come to jog, fly kites, stroll and enjoy the neatly tended formal garden, illuminated fountain and baobab trees. Many walk along the riverfront promenade to the Royal Wharf or admire the view from the pedestrian bridge over Sungai Kedayan.

ISLAM IN BRUNEI

In recent decades, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah has led Brunei towards an Islamic way of life that is increasingly conservative. Religious life is tightly regulated, with a complete ban on the sale or public consumption of alcohol and, on Friday, the closure of almost all shops, restaurants and private-sector offices for Muslim prayers from noon to 2pm. Government offices and museums are all closed on Friday.

Muslim men who fail to attend Friday prayers can be fined, and draconian laws ban homosexual sex, though prosecutions are rare. On a personal level, relations between members of different religious groups remain relaxed and cordial, and the sultan himself often attends Chinese New Year celebrations.

Bling at the Royal Regalia Museum

See golden chariots and lavish gifts

A solid silver model of Angkor Wat, a sculpture of a horse’s head from the Pakistan Polo Association, scale models of luxury motor vehicles and even a beautifully decorated didgeridoo. These are a small selection of the diplomatic gifts bestowed on Brunei’s royal family that are on display at this captivating and strangely intimate museum.

Such presents – some tacky or flashy, others touchingly evocative of faraway cultures – are given by world leaders all the time, but rarely does the public get to see them, or to consider the ways that international diplomacy is often conducted on a very personal level.

Overshadowing the diplomatic gifts, however, are the epic displays of the gilded chariot used during the sultan’s 1992 silver-jubilee procession, the regalia and weapons carried by the royal entourage, and a second chariot used for his 1968 coronation. Scale models of the glittering interior of the sultan’s palace provide more evidence of the royal family’s love of bling.

Family photos and publicity shots also offer a glimpse into the life of the sultan, whom you can see from childhood through military service at Sandhurst to his lavish wedding and sporty adult life.

EATING IN KIULAP: OUR PICKS

Kimchi $$ A first-rate Korean place, where the titular kimchi (fermented cabbage) is one of a cluster of side dishes served with every main.

Alter Ego $$$ Creative dishes and cakes, including a salted caramel eclair to die for. Superb-value three-course dinners.

Nonya $$ ‘Blessed with good food’ is Nonya’s boast, with which we won’t argue – a fine place to sample Malay-Chinese fusion dishes.

The Tuckshop Kopitiam $ Relaxed cafe serving all the coffee-shop favourites, such as chicken rice and kaya (coconut jam) toast.

A 1000-YEAR-OLD COMMUNITY

A century ago, half of Brunei’s Malay population lived in Kampong Ayer. The over-the-water villages specialised in traditional industries such as silver and goldsmithing, the weaving of fine cloth and boat-making. Some crafts are still practised here, but life on the river is changing.

Kampong Ayer’s population has dropped from around 28,000 in 2018 to less than 10,000 today. While the relaxed village lifestyle still appeals to some, many old wooden homes are abandoned or falling into decay. There are sections with modern government-built houses, some funded by the sultan to replace structures lost in a 1993 fire. However, as you explore, watch for rotting slats on the boardwalks and be prepared for rubbish strewn across the intertidal mud.

Delve into the Brunei History Centre

Learn how an empire shrank

If you’re curious about the sultanate’s long and fascinating history, drop by this modest museum. The galleries are crammed with information about Brunei’s two millennia as a regional trading hub, starting with the advent of maritime commerce with China’s Han Dynasty in 3rd to 6th centuries CE. One room looks at the 14 involuntary treaties by which a weakened Brunei ceded ever more territory to the White Rajas of Sarawak.

In Search of Proboscis Monkeys

Take a DIY sunset cruise

The best way to see BSB’s water villages, as well as the gilded domes of the sultan’s palace, is from a water taxi, which can be chartered along the Royal Wharf for about B$30 to B$40 (a bit of negotiating will occur, but at least you know the captain can’t claim that petrol is expensive!). Finding a boat won’t be a problem as the boat operator will have spotted you before you spot them.

After you admire the palace’s roofline, jetty and backyard, your skipper will take you further up Sungai Brunei to observe families of proboscis monkeys in trees along the river, jumping from branch to branch as they munch on fresh young leaves. Keep an eye out for crocodiles, their beady eyes barely poking above the water. The best time to head out is late afternoon as the monkeys are easiest to find around sunset.

Gems of Islamic Civilisation

Discover manuscripts, astrolabes and treasures

Housed in a monumental domed building with four soaring minarets, the Balai Khazanah Islam Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah showcases the riches of Islamic civilisation from across the Muslim world. The nine galleries feature ancient, handwritten copies of the Quran and other Islamic texts, astronomical instruments (including medieval astrolabes), bejewelled swords and a collection of fossils and geological specimens – including a 47-million-year-old, 19m cypress tree from Jordan. To enter both women and men must cover their legs and wear long sleeves. Also, no photography is allowed in the galleries – you will be asked to lock away your smart phone and any bags.

EATING IN DOWNTOWN BSB: OUR PICKS

Kaizen Sushi $$$ The sushi is excellent and there’s more Japanese dishes on the menu at this upmarket restaurant beside the river.

Phongmun Restaurant $$ Popular Chinese restaurant in the Jalan Sultan Complex. Serves a great range of dim sum and roast meats.

Tamu Selera $ Hawker centre in a shady park. Cheap Malaysian and Indonesian dishes such as ayam penyet (fried chicken with sambal).

Mei Kong $ This no-frills kopitiam is the place to join locals enjoying a teh tarik (frothy milk tea) with a bowl of kolo mee noodles.

Brunei History Centre | Uwe Aranas/shutterstock ©

WHERE TO SHOP IN BSB

Arts & Handicrafts Training Centre

High quality crafts, including batik and silverwork made by the centre’s students and grads.

The Mall

Has a good supermarket, multiplex cinema and a striking ceiling mural high above the central atrium.

Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery

Stocks local crafts and artworks including fabric flowers and watercolour paintings.

Yayasan Complex

Downtown mall with stores selling clothes, jewellery and the like. Also has a great supermarket.

Tamu Kianggeh

Stalls piled high with tropical fruits and vegetables at this colourful fresh produce market. Good takeaway food, too.

Maritime History & Traditional Technologies Museums

Local culture and wreck treasure

About a 10-minute drive east of downtown BSB, two adjacent museums shine a light on traditional Malay life, Brunei’s pre-modern material culture and the maritime history of the Brunei Empire.

The Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum tells the fascinating story of the ‘Brunei Shipwreck’. Discovered in 1997 during an oil company survey, this late-15th, early-16th-century wreck yielded over 13,000 artefacts, 90% of them ceramic vessels. Ranging from crude stoneware jars to bowls exquisitely decorated in blue and white, they were made in coastal China, northern and central Vietnam and Thailand. Another gallery is filled with models of three dozen types of traditional boat.

The Malay Technology Museum showcases the varied economic activities necessary for life in a traditional Malay village or Dayak longhouse. Peek into half-size reconstructions of a Malay water village house, a Murut longhouse and a Penan forest hut, constructed (as in generations past) out of bamboo and nipa palm fronds. The recreated homes are coupled with displays on weaving, fishing, farming, boat-making, metalwork and the production of ambuyat (a favourite Bruneian dish made from sago pith). In the lobby, staff are happy to demonstrate traditional games and brain-teaser toys.

DRINKING IN BSB: TOP COFFEE SPOTS

Lane Microbakery & Coffee Super coffee shop with clued up baristas and a delicious selection of freshly baked pastries.

Rustique by Absolute Great little spot for coffee in downtown Bandar. Their pasta dishes are also very tasty.

Roasted Sip Mini Starbucks-style chain of sleek cafes. The Pavo Point branch is handy for downtown. Branches in Kiulap and Jerudong.

Batches This temple to the bean is a six-minute drive west of downtown. Speciality drinks include the Nora Jones (a mix of orange and espresso).

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque | Joshua Davenport/shutterstock ©

THE SULTAN’S PALACE

Istana Nurul Iman (meaning ‘palace of the light of faith’) is the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei. Completed in 1984, it cost something like US$1.4 billion and has a modest 1788 rooms. Designed by Filipino architect Leandro Locsin, it mixes elements of Malay (the vaulted roofs) and Islamic (the arches and gold domes) architecture.

If you happen to be in Brunei for the Hari Raya Aidilfitri festivities at the end of Ramadan, be sure to call in on the sultan – this is the only time the palace is open to the public. The rest of the year, you can get a long-distance look at the palace while on a water-taxi cruise.

The Sultan’s Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Visit Brunei’s largest state mosque

As you head towards Gadong, it’s impossible to miss the gleaming domes and four terrazzo-tiled minarets of Brunei’s largest mosque, inaugurated in 1994 to celebrate the sultan’s 48th birthday. The complex, with space for more than 5000 worshippers, is adorned with 29 gilded domes to commemorate Hassanal Bolkiah’s status as his dynasty’s 29th ruler. At night the main dome is lit up like a gold flame. The interior more than matches the mosque’s lavish exterior, with sweeping staircases, supersized chandeliers, fine stained glass and repeating geometric motifs. Look out for the sultan’s own personal escalator at his private entrance to the mosque. Outside, the structure is surrounded by fountains and formal gardens. It’s open to visitors from 8am (10.30am on Sunday) to noon and 2pm to 3pm, closed Thursday and Friday.

EATING IN GADONG: OUR PICKS

Pasar Pelbagai Barangan Gadong $ Aka Gadong Night Market, this gathering of hawkers is mostly takeaway with some picnic tables.

Pondok Sari Wangi $$ This beloved institution serves tasty, Indonesian-style noodle and rice dishes, stir-fries and curries.

Thiam Hock Restaurant $$ Chinese-run restaurant famous for its range of fish-head curries, pork dishes and butter prawns.

Chop Jing Chew $ One of Brunei’s oldest traditional kopitiam famous for its roti kuning – toasted bread with butter and kaya.

Beyond Bandar Seri Begawan

Survey a vast pristine rainforest from on high, go wreck diving and hang out in the sultan’s playground.

Forests, parks and long, quiet beaches with family-friendly amenities are all around an hour’s drive or less from BSB.

Drive across the spectacular 30km Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Bridge to reach Ulu Temburong National Park, one of the best-preserved tracts of primary rainforest in all of Asia. If beaches are more your thing there are lovely, practically deserted ones to be found at Muara and Tutong. Or dive beneath the waves to explore WWII wrecks.

Jerudong, where the sultan and his family play polo, offers a family-friendly amusement park and a beachside luxury hotel on an epic scale. Further west in coastal Seria, learn about the fossil fuels and the riches they have brought Brunei.

Ulu Temburong National ParkTIME FROM BSB: 1 HR

Survey a vast expanse of primary rainforest

Some 550 sq km of virgin rainforest is protected within Ulu Temburong National Park. Visitors are permitted only to access a tiny portion of this biodiverse wonderland that’s considered Brunei’s green jewel. Even so, a trip here is well worth the effort and easily organised via several local tour companies. DIY trips are not possible.

All visits to Ulu Temburong kick off with a thrilling trip up the Sungai Temburong from the Batang Duri area by temuai (shallow-draft Iban longboat). The journey takes between 25 and 45 minutes, depending on river conditions. When it rains the water level can quickly rise by up to 2m, but if the river is low you may have to get out and push.

After disembarking near the confluence of the Sungai Temburong and Sungai Belalong, it’s a steep, sweaty climb via wooden steps through the forest up to a vertiginous canopy walk. Five metal scaffold towers hold aloft a walkway through the treetops, up to 40m above the forest floor. The panoramic views of jungle-clad hills stretching to the horizon will take your breath away.

For the best chance to spot wildlife, arrange to stay overnight in one of the local lodges and to travel into the park at around 4.30am to catch dawn at the top of a canopy walk.

On the temuai ride back to base, you’ll pull up on the riverbank and splash up a stream on foot to a waterfall where you can bathe under the cascades while small fish nibble on the dead skin on your feet – a ticklish pedicure!

GETTING AROUND

Rapid Kuantan and interstate buses connect all the major towns in the region, but a hire car comes in handy to maximise your time hopping between the sites. Some spots, such as Gua Charas, are out of the reach of city buses.

Sungai Lembing and Cherating are small and walkable, but the sights are more spread out around the Pekan River basin, where Grab is more useful and readily available.

TOUR AGENCIES FOR ULU TEMBURONG

The main agencies offering day or overnight tours to Ulu Temburong National Park are Borneo Guide, who run the Sumbiling Eco Village; Freme Travel Services who have the Freme Rainforest Lodge beside where boats depart to the park; and AZ Back to Nature Tour Services, whose riverside camp is the closest to the park entrance. There is currently no accommodation within the park itself.

Day trips follow a similar format: a welcome snack before the boat trip upriver to the park. Around one hour in the park, including the canopy walk. A splash up a small creek to a waterfall, and perhaps floating down river in an inner tube before lunch.

MuaraTIME FROM BSB: 30 MINS

Dive WWII shipwrecks

The waters off Brunei have some interesting wrecks – a number dating back to WWII – as well as plenty of intact reef. On most of the shipwrecks and at all the reef-dive sites, there is colourful hard and soft coral, including large gorgonian fans as well as wide table corals. Marine life includes cuttlefish, octopus, morays, porcupine fish and giant puffers.

The best time to dive is between March and October; from May to mid-July the conditions are often ideal. Recommended operators include Poni Divers, Brunei’s largest dive centre, and Oceanic Quest Company. Both offer full-board accommodation at guesthouses in Muara.

The long, sandy beach at Muara is also a popular weekend retreat, with BBQ grills, picnic tables, lawns and children’s play areas. The amphibious landings by Royal Australian Navy commandos on 10 June 1945 at Green Beach (as the site was code-named) are commemorated by the Brunei-Australia Memorial and an information plaque situated 300m from the parking lot (to the right as you face the South China Sea).

JerudongTIME FROM BSB: 25 MINS

Have fun in an amusement park

Brunei’s rather tame version of a Disneyland-style theme park is Jerudong Park Playground (open Wednesday to Sunday). Entry may no longer be free (as it was in its 1990s heyday) but this sprawling amusement park does offer some mild escapism for all the family. Wear clothes you don’t mind getting wet if you plan to dive into the Water Park.

A taste of luxury

Adult pleasures are fully catered for at the Empire Brunei, a lavish hotel and golf resort that’s positively pharaonic in its opulence. A glittering chandelier made of gold and Baccarat crystal hanging over the lobby sets the tone. On weekends and holidays treat yourself to a lovely afternoon tea in the lobby lounge that affords panoramic views of the South China Sea.

Come back down to earth at the nearby Pasar Jerudong, one of Brunei’s largest fresh produce markets. Next to the beach on the other side of the Empire Brunei’s golf course, it specialises in locally landed fish and seafood.

Jerudong Park Playground | Yusnizam Yusof/shutterstock ©

TutongTIME FROM BSB: 50 MINS

Stroll along Brunei’s best beach

As a town Tutong is unremarkable, but the area is famous among Bruneians for its long beach, Pantai Seri Kenangan, set on a narrow spit of land 2km southwest of town, with the South China Sea on one side and Sungai Tutong on the other. Think golden sand, warm water, picnic tables under rain shelters, and plenty of casuarina trees providing shade. Sandflies can be a problem around sunset, so be sure to bring repellent.

PRINCE JEFRI’S FIEFDOM

From 1986 to 1997, Prince Jefri, the sultan’s spendthrift younger brother, was Brunei’s finance minister. His fiefdom was Jerudong where he commissioned a giant amusement park and luxurious hotel, and invited the likes of Whitney Houston and Michael Jackson to play free concerts, the latter to celebrate the sultan’s 50th birthday in 1996.

But in 1997, PJ (as he’s known in Brunei) was accused by the government (ie his brother), of embezzling billions in state funds. After a series of court cases, a settlement was reached in 2000 when PJ handed over his personal holdings to the state in return for charges being dropped and being allowed to keep a home in Brunei.

SeriaTIME FROM BSB: 75 MINS

Walk where Brunei’s oil first flowed

The low-density coastal town of Seria is a handy first stop if you’re driving into Brunei from Miri. A good place to eat, it also offers ATMs for local currency and a branch of the telecom company DST to sort out a prepaid SIM.

The town’s Billionth Barrel Monument, situated on the beachfront, is worth a look. It commemorates (you guessed it) the billionth barrel of crude oil produced at the Seria field, a landmark reached in 1991. Concrete panels leading up to the monument are painted with colourful art that depicts mainly oil-related scenes. You’re also likely to have the long, pleasant beach here entirely to yourself.

Croc-spotting and bird-watching at Luagan Lalak

About a 40-minute drive inland from Seria is the peaceful and serene Luagan Lalak Recreation Park. A trident of wooden walkways extend across an alluvial freshwater swamp, with tufts of greenery dotted like islands in mirror-like water. It’s a beautiful spot for picnicking, bird-watching or meditating, and is especially lovely at sunrise or sunset. Crocodiles live here so do not even think of taking a dip!

EATING & DRINKING IN SERIA: OUR PICKS

Coffee Industry $ Minimalist cafe serving a range of caffeinated drinks made with Dukes Coffee from Melbourne, plus tasty pastries.

Kompleks Sri Selera Seria $ A good range of food stalls serving the usual Malay and Chinese foods surround this covered courtyard.

WYWY Restaurant $ Retro-style Bruneian chain with a wide-ranging, good-value menu. Sells fresh fruits and sweets for takeaway.

Kaizen Sushi $$$ The Seria outpost of one of BSB’s best restaurants, Kaizen delights with its extensive selection of Japanese dishes.

BRUNEI’S OIL

There are plenty of pumpjacks (also known as ‘nodding donkeys’) around Seria, the town that is the hub of Brunei’s mostly offshore oil industry. This is where commercially viable oil reserves were first discovered in 1929, and it’s where Brunei Shell Petroleum (BSP), co-owned by Shell and the Brunei government, is based.

Brunei is Southeast Asia’s third-largest producer of oil and the ninth-largest producer of liquefied natural gas in the world. But with the oil and gas being finite, the nation is also looking to the future by diversifying its energy production. In 2021 BSP – the sultanate’s largest private employer – inaugurated a 3.3MW solar power plant in Seria, with almost 7000 photovoltaic panels, to power its HQ.

Billionth Barrel Monument | Munzir Rosdi/shutterstock ©

SERIA ENERGY LAB

The Seria Energy Lab is a petrochemical-focused exhibition with hands-on exhibits aimed largely at kids. If you’re short of time, the Brunei Energy Hub in BSB covers pretty much the same ground in a more contemporary way.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kunyit 7 Lodge $ On stilts over the water, this colourfully painted and cosy homestay offers a chance to experience daily life in Kampong Ayer.

Qing Yun Resthouse $ Windowless and basic rooms, but great value – and you can’t get any more central than their Bandar branch facing Royal Wharf.

Brunei Hotel $$ Boutique-style hotel with comfortable rooms, clean lines and a muted colour scheme. Superb downtown location.

Capital Residence Suites $$ Bland rooms but the suites are like small apartments and offer good value for a central location.

Grand City Hotel $$ Comfortable, affordable option in Gadong that’s walking distance from some pleasant cafes.

J Hotel $$ Handy for all the great restaurants of Kiulap, this boutique-style hotel offers contemporary rooms, gym, and rooftop pool and terrace with city views.

Radisson Hotel $$$ Classy luxury hotel that flies the flag for international standards. Amenities include a pool, fitness centre, spa and two restaurants.

Rizqun International Hotel $$$ Luxurious hotel with a marble lobby and great views of the Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque from its upper floors.

Temburong District

Stoneville Hotel $$ In Bangar, Temburong’s largest town, this smart modern establishment offers tastefully decorated, comfortable rooms and a restaurant.

Sumbiling Eco Village $$$ Run as a partnership between Borneo Guide and the local Iban community, this riverside retreat offers ecofriendly A-frame cabins in a peaceful durian orchard.

Freme Rainforest Lodge $$$ In the Iban village of Bantang Duri, next to where boats depart for the Ulu Temburong National Park. Run by one of Brunei’s biggest travel agencies.

AZ Back to Nature Camp $$$ Go off grid at this rustic campsite with tents and wooden huts that’s the closest place to Ulu Temburong National Park that you can stay. Rates are full board.

The Abode $$$ On the way to Bangar, this upmarket resort takes glamping to the next level with its spacious air-con safari tent rooms, swimming pools and spa.

Jerudong

Star Lodge Brunei $$ Good value, modern hotel close by Jerudong Park Playground. Has a small outdoor pool and offers free airport transfers.

The Empire Brunei $$$ Palatial hotel with over-the-top amenities including beautiful private beaches, five pools, a three-screen cinema and six restaurants.

Tutong & Seria

The Lanes Hotel $$ In central Tutong, this well-regarded hotel has an infinity pool, a fitness centre and a play area for kids.

Roomz Hotel $$ This sleek Seria-based hotel is a good bet – spotless, tiled rooms come with little desks, balconies and from the upper floors, sea views.

Singapore

MELTING POT OF CULTURES AND FOOD

Subverting staid stereotypes, Southeast Asia’s unexpected ‘it kid’ is a mixture of modern marvels, heritage haunts, moreish meals and a nightlife scene that gets some kick.

Gardens by the Bay | Ttstudio/shutterstock ©

Singapore, the dynamic island city-state at the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, stands as a living testament to the breathtaking fusion of tradition and modernity. Spanning a mere 724 sq km, this vibrant nation has defied its size and emerged as a global economic powerhouse and a melting pot of diverse cultures.

The strategic allure of Singapore has been a linchpin in its evolution, and its prominence as a trading hub dates back centuries. Today, it proudly wears the crown of economic success, boasting one of the world’s busiest ports and a thriving financial district.

Alex Fonda/shutterstock ©

The city’s skyline is a jaw-dropping panorama adorned with architectural marvels. From the gravity-defying rooftop pool of the iconic Marina Bay Sands hotel to the avant-garde ‘supertrees’ at Gardens by the Bay, the cityscape embodies a steadfast commitment to innovation and design. The juxtaposition of towering skyscrapers against the backdrop of colonial-era shophouses weaves a unique and visually stunning urban tapestry.

Culturally, Singapore is a mosaic of ethnic communities, including Chinese, Malay and Indian. This diversity is celebrated through the preservation of ethnic enclaves such as Chinatown, Little India and Kampong Glam. These neighbourhoods not only showcase the city’s rich heritage but also offer a sensory immersion into each community’s traditions, cuisines and customs.

Renowned for its legendary cleanliness and orderliness, Singapore has well-maintained streets, lush green spaces and an efficient public transport system. The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) weaves through the city, offering travellers a convenient and eco-friendly mode of travel.

Beneath its modern veneer, Singapore remains committed to preserving its natural heritage. The UNESCO-listed Singapore Botanic Gardens stands as a verdant oasis near the heart of the city, providing a tranquil escape from the urban hustle. The city’s unwavering dedication to sustainability shines through initiatives such as the ‘City in a Garden’ concept, integrating greenery into its urban spaces.

From a humble trading post to a global economic titan, Singapore boasts a story etched in resilience, adaptability and visionary leadership. Its synthesis of tradition and innovation, coupled with an unwavering commitment to diversity and sustainability, positions Singapore as a shining beacon of success in the 21st century.

THE MAIN AREAS

COLONIAL DISTRICT, MARINA BAY & THE QUAYS

The dynamic heart of the nation.

CHINATOWN, TANJONG PAGAR & THE CBD

Temples, hawkers and tantalising tipples.

LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM

Colourful enclave steeped in history.

ORCHARD ROAD

Megamalls and shophouse gems.

HOLLAND VILLAGE, DEMPSEY HILL & BOTANIC GARDENS

Earthy wonders and foodie havens.

EASTERN SINGAPORE

Religion, eats and Peranakan treats.

NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

The city’s green lungs.

WEST & SOUTHWEST SINGAPORE

Wild wonders and off-radar attractions.

SENTOSA

Singapore’s island of fun.

Find Your Way

Navigating Singapore is a breeze thanks to its world-class public transport system. The MRT swiftly links key spots, complemented by buses and taxis. Opt for a Tourist Pass EZ-Link for unlimited train and bus rides, along with exclusive perks and discounts at various establishments (ezlink.com.sg/home-tourist). Effortless exploration awaits.

Plan Your Days

Thanks to Singapore’s small footprint and efficient transport network, you can effortlessly explore and eat your way around all corners of the island in no time at all.

Asian Civilisations Museum | milosk50/shutterstock ©

Day 1

Morning

• Start with a riverside stroll at the Quays, rewinding your way to the Colonial District, where the brilliant Asian Civilisations Museum and National Museum of Singapore await.

Afternoon

• Take the MRT to Little India and duck into the Tekka Centre before exploring the area’s colourful history at the Indian Heritage Centre. Wander south to Kampong Glam to visit the Sultan Mosque and find unique shops along Haji Lane and Arab Street.

Evening

• Head to the futuristic Gardens by the Bay and catch the Garden Rhapsody light-and-sound show.

Day 2

Morning

• Head into Chinatown to glimpse neighbourhood life at the Chinatown Heritage Centre and Thian Hock Keng Temple before learning all about the metropolis at the Singapore City Gallery.

Afternoon

• Dive into Peranakan culture in Joo Chiat, stopping at shophouses on Koon Seng Rd before visiting Changi Chapel and Museum. Afterwards, head to the beachfront East Coast Park for a late-afternoon bike ride.

Evening

• Make a beeline for neon-lit Geylang, a tame red-light district juxtaposed with temples, mosques and excellent food. Don’t miss trying durian at a roadside stall.

Day 3

Morning

• Rise early and join the orangutans for Breakfast in the Wild at Singapore Zoo. Grab a ‘Park Hopper’ combo ticket to visit the other parks at Mandai Wildlife Reserve. Alternatively, head to MacRitchie Reservoir for a jungle hike.

Afternoon

• Continue the action-packed fun on Sentosa. Don your swimmers for thrilling water slides at Adventure Cove, or for a mixture of rides and shows, tackle Universal Studios.

Evening

• Head to one of the island’s beach clubs for a sundowner before finishing the day with a spectacular light-and-laser show at Wings of Time.

YOU’LL ALSO WANT TO…

For such a tiny island nation just 724 sq km in size, Singapore is heavy on awesome things to fill your time.

WANDER THE BOTANIC GARDENS

An antidote to the city’s rat-race tendencies, the Singapore Botanic Gardens are a sprawling oasis of lakes and gardens.

Pavaphon Supanantananont/shutterstock ©

SHOP ON ORCHARD ROAD

Orchard Rd is a 2.5km-long torrent of malls, department stores and speciality shops housing every brand imaginable.

Lifestyle Travel Photo/shutterstock ©

PERUSE PERANAKAN PLEASURES

Explore Straits Chinese culture at Baba House and the Peranakan Museum.

Tngmei/shutterstock ©

EXPLORE UNDERGROUND

Tour the Battlebox, a former WWII British command post, and get lost in the eerie 26-room underground complex.

Estiypratiwi/shutterstock ©

WALK AN OLD RAILROAD

Hit the 24km cross-country Rail Corridor trail, a green passageway that spans the island.

tristan tan/shutterstock ©

DISCOVER THE HEARTLANDS

Visit Toa Payoh, one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, to get a dose of history and local life.

Derekteo/shutterstock ©

DAY TRIP TO THE ISLANDS

Grab your swimmers and a picnic and spend the day exploring Singapore’s Southern Islands, accessible by public ferry.

Sami Peltokangas/shutterstock ©

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

THE DYNAMIC HEART OF THE ISLAND NATION

Singapore’s epicentre showcases grand colonial architecture, futuristic marvels, renowned museums, lush green spaces and vibrant riverside entertainment venues.

Begin your exploration at City Hall, the central MRT interchange where numerous lines intersect. In the vicinity, you’ll find illustrious British colonial landmarks, including the iconic Raffles Hotel, St Andrew’s Cathedral and the National Gallery. For a day of cultural immersion, head northwest along Stamford Rd, where a multitude of captivating museums beckon. Alternatively, venture in the opposite direction to the lively Marina Bay, home to landmarks such as Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by the Bay and Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay.

To the south, you’ll encounter the Singapore River and the city’s three quays, which come alive after dark. Rising behind all of this is tranquil Fort Canning Park, which offers a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle and a glimpse into Singapore’s past and wartime history.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Asian Civilisations Museum

2  Battlebox

3  Gardens by the Bay

4  Marina Bay Sands

5  National Gallery Singapore

6  National Museum of Singapore

7  Raffles Hotel

SIGHTS

8  Arts House

9  ArtScience Museum

10  Boat Quay

11  Children’s Museum Singapore

12  Clarke Quay

13  Fort Canning Park

14  Merlion

15  Padang

16  Peranakan Museum

17  Robertson Quay

18  Singapore Cricket Club

19  Singapore Flyer

20  St Andrew’s Cathedral

21  Victoria Theatre & Concert Hall

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

22  Cool Cats

23  Singapore DUCKTours

24  Singapore River Cruise

SLEEPING

25  Capitol Kempinski Hotel

26  Fullerton Bay Hotel

27  KINN Capsule Hotel

28  Marina Bay Sands Hotel

29  Park Regis

30  Quarters Hostel

31  Raffles Singapore

32  Studio M Hotel

33  Warehouse

EATING

34  Braci

35  Chin Chin Eating House

36  Haidilao Hot Pot

37  Jumbo Seafood

38  Lau Pa Sat

39  Makansutra Gluttons Bay

See 5  National Kitchen by Violet Oon

See 5  Odette

40  PS.Cafe at One Fullerton

41  Song Fa Bak Kut Teh

42  Spago Dining Room

43  Super Loco

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

44  Capital

45  CÉ LA VI

46  Cherry Discotheque

47  Level 33

48  Long Bar

49  Marquee

50  MO Bar

51  Nutmeg & Clove

See 5  Smoke & Mirrors

52  Writers Bar

53  Zouk

ENTERTAINMENT

54  Far East Organization Children’s Garden

55  Spectra

GETTING AROUND

Navigating Singapore’s centre is easy on foot, given the predominantly flat terrain, well-maintained sidewalks and clear signage. Even in inclement weather, numerous underground walkways and air-conditioned malls seamlessly connect, offering a comfortable and dry sanctuary. Additionally, the efficient MRT system is readily available for slightly longer distances, ensuring convenient transport even in less-than-ideal weather conditions.

A Futuristic Masterpiece

Discover Singapore’s most iconic landmark

Since its 2010 opening, Marina Bay Sands has become the symbol of Singapore. Costing US$5.6 billion and designed by Israeli-born architect Moshe Safdie, the complex includes a hotel, casino, theatre, exhibition hall, mall and museum.

At the core of the complex, the Marina Bay Sands Hotel features three 55-storey towers topped by a 1.2-hectare SkyPark, with its internationally famous infinity pool. The pool is for hotel guests only, but the observation deck is open to the public and offers dramatic vistas across the Singapore skyline. You can enjoy the same view if you have a drink at CÉ LA VI, the rooftop bar-restaurant.

Fronting Marina Bay is the ArtScience Museum, which looks like a giant white lotus framed by a lily pond. Covering a space of nearly 5000 square metres, the venue houses exhibitions that push the boundaries of science and technology. A must-visit is the permanent exhibition ‘Future World: Where Art Meets Science’, created by renowned Japanese digital art collective teamLab.

Every night, Marina Bay Sands razzle-dazzles with a free water show, Spectra (8pm and 9pm daily, plus 10pm Friday and Saturday). The 15-minute extravaganza features dancing fountain jets, video projections and laser displays.

TOP TIP

Most bars in the area have happy-hour specials from 5pm to 8pm or 9pm. During these hours, drinks are either buy-one-get-one-free or heavily discounted.

Marina Bay Sands | Melinda Nagy/shutterstock ©

WHO WAS STAMFORD RAFFLES?

Sir Stamford Raffles founded Singapore as a trading post of the East India Company in 1819, recognising its pivotal role in British maritime routes. Raffles struck a deal with the late sultan of Johor’s eldest son, Hussein, whose accession to power had been thwarted by his younger brother.

A treaty with Johor’s esteemed temenggong (senior judge) cemented Raffles’ claim, and his vision materialised, transforming Singapore into a thriving centre of commerce and drawing diverse communities, though the East India Company had racist policies and promoted colonial expansion. Despite Raffles’s departure in 1823, his influence endured, and numerous landmarks bear his name, including Raffles Plc, Stamford Rd and Raffles Hotel, preserving his legacy in Singapore’s history.

A Mystical Maritime Mascot

A must-have Singapore snapshot

In the 1960s, the imaginative minds at the tourism board spun a captivating tale, giving rise to the iconic symbol of Singapore: the Merlion. Overlooking Marina Bay and spouting water from its mouth, this majestic 8.6m-high statue’s fish-like body symbolises Singapore’s origins as a fishing village, while its leonine head honours the city’s original name, Singapura, which means ‘lion city’ in Sanskrit. Drawing plenty of snap-happy tourists, the Merlion stands guard at the mouth of the Singapore River facing east – an auspicious feng shui orientation believed to bring prosperity – which, looking at the Singapore skyline, it certainly has.

DRINKING IN COLONIAL DISTRICT & MARINA BAY: OUR PICKS

Nutmeg & Clove Shifting from its Chinatown location, this veteran expertly reinterprets classic cocktails with a Singaporean twist.

Level 33 Slurp house-brewed beer while taking in the jaw-dropping vistas at ‘the world’s highest urban craft brewery’.

Writers Bar Want the Raffles experience but not the Singapore sling? Head to this refined cocktail den located in the Grand Lobby.

MO Bar In the Mandarin Oriental, this swanky hotel bar oozes class and crafted cocktails. The themed evenings on Monday to Wednesday.

SINGAPORE SLING

The Long Bar at Raffles Hotel is where bartender Ngiam Tong Boon crafted the now legendary Singapore sling in 1915. At the time, it was deemed improper for women to publicly consume alcohol, leading them to favour juices and teas. Recognising an opportunity, Ngiam devised a cocktail that resembled juice but concealed an alcoholic kick.

The Singapore sling, a gin-based concoction, features pineapple and lime juice, curaçao, and Bénédictine, with grenadine and cherry liqueur imparting its delightful pink hue. Alongside the hotel’s 2019 renovations, the sling underwent an update and is now crafted with Widges gin and custom-made grenadine syrup. Indulging in this historical sip isn’t cheap. A sling at the Long Bar will set you back S$39.

Raffles Hotel | Ardanme/shutterstock ©

Up, Up & Away

A bird’s-eye view of the island

A half-hour journey aboard the 165m-high Singapore Flyer serves up a million-dollar panorama over the Colonial District, CBD and Marina Bay; the high-rise housing sprawl to the east; and out to the ship-clogged South China Sea.

A Field of History & Heritage

Discover colonial architecture

The large field in the city’s heart is the Padang. During WWII, it served as the location where the invading Japanese herded the European community before marching them to Changi Prison. In a twist of irony, it was also the location for the victory parade following the invader’s surrender.

Surrounding it are numerous colonial buildings, including the neogothic St Andrew’s Cathedral along St Andrew’s Rd, constructed by Indian convicts and funded by Scottish merchants. Adjacent to the cathedral is the National Gallery Singapore, housed in what was once the Supreme Court and the City Hall.

At the southern end of the Padang lies the Singapore Cricket Club, established in 1852, while the regal Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall, among Singapore’s earliest Victorian Revivalist buildings, stands nearby. Adjacent to this historic venue is the Arts House (artshouselimited.sg), Singapore’s oldest government building, once Parliament House and now a vibrant arts centre.

EATING IN COLONIAL DISTRICT & MARINA BAY: OUR PICKS

National Kitchen by Violet Oon $$ Singapore’s finest Peranakan (Chinese-Malay fusion) flavours, helmed by Violet Oon.

PS.Cafe at One Fullerton $$ This waterfront branch of the beloved local chain fuses colonial styling with a crowd-pulling menu.

Odette $$$ In the upper echelons of Singapore’s fine-dining scene, chef Julien Royer continues to take modern French cuisine to new levels.

Spago Dining Room $$$ A favourite for special occasions; the menu and the view from atop Marina Bay Sands are both spectacular.

A Grand Old Dame

Time travel through Raffles Hotel

While the opulent lobby of Singapore’s most iconic hotel is reserved for overnight guests and restaurant patrons, Raffles Hotel is a destination worth visiting for its stunning ivory facade, renowned Sikh doorman and tropical surroundings. The hotel started life in 1887 as a modest 10-room bungalow fronting the beach (long gone thanks to land reclamation). It was the brainchild of Armenian immigrants, the Sarkies brothers, who were also proprietors of colonial hotels such as the Strand in Yangon and the Eastern & Oriental in Penang.

Soon synonymous with oriental luxury, Raffles has, through the years, maintained its position as one of the world’s best high-end hotels, thanks to numerous renovations. Shop the boutiques in the arcade and sip on a refreshing Singapore sling at the Long Bar.

Connecting Asia’s Dots

Hunt for ancient treasures

Travel back in time at this engrossing ode to Asia’s cross-cultural connections, developed through Singapore’s position and history as a port city. Perched beside the Singapore River, the Asian Civilisations Museum is like a sprawling, glittering attic that heaves with ancient pottery, religious sculptures, silver tea sets, whimsical puppets and mystical weaponry. You’ll find the region’s most comprehensive collection of pan-Asian treasureshere, and the recovered treasures from the Tang shipwreck need to be seen to be believed.

BEST SPOTS FOR KIDS

Children’s Museum Singapore

Singapore’s first kid-centric museum, complete with immersive shows and interactive displays.

National Gallery Singapore

Let your kids’ imaginations run free at the Keppel Centre for Art Education, a wonderful corner dedicated to nurturing children’s creativity.

ArtScience Museum

This high-tech interactive museum impresses kids from tots to teens with its exhibitions of digital exhibits and futuristic displays.

Singapore DUCKTours

Take an informative and fun tour aboard a brightly coloured amphibious former military vehicle around Marina Bay.

Far East Organization Children’s Garden

Little tikes can get wet and wild at Gardens by the Bay’s water and adventure playgrounds.

A World-Class Collection

A must-visit for art lovers

On the Padang sits the awe-inspiring S$530-million National Gallery Singapore, the jewel in the crown of the city’s art scene. Enthusiasts could spend hours wandering the world-class collection of 19th-century and modern Southeast Asian art. It’s housed within the iconic heritage buildings of the former City Hall and the Old Supreme Court. Kids are kept busy at the Keppel Centre for Art Education, and you’ll find some of Singapore’s highly acclaimed restaurants concealed within the gallery’s wings. Visit the rooftop for jaw-dropping city views. Sunset reservations at cocktail powerhouse Smoke & Mirrors are highly sought after.

EATING IN THE QUAYS: OUR PICKS

Braci $$$ This Michelin-starred restaurant in Boat Quay features an open kitchen, a rooftop bar and modern Italian nosh.

Super Loco $$ A crowd favourite in Robertson Quay, this breezy, hip cantina is perfect for relaxed Mexican food and a zingy margarita.

Jumbo Seafood $$ A household name in Singapore, this decades-old institution has a loyal following with its sauce-slathered chilli crabs.

Haidilao Hot Pot $$ Flavour-punching soup and a kung fu noodle show keep guests coming back to this steamboat restaurant.

TOP SIGHT

Gardens by the Bay

Behold the futuristic botanical marvel Gardens by the Bay, a realm featuring space-age bio-domes, cutting-edge ‘supertrees’ and enchanting sculptures. This visionary oasis is a bold urban planning triumph with a staggering price tag of S$1 billion and sprawling across 101 hectares of reclaimed land smack in the city’s heart, as thrilling to architecture lovers as it is to nature enthusiasts.

Supertree Grove | Sergii Figurnyi/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for prices and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

Supertree Grove

Supertree Observatory

OCBC Skyway

Flower Dome

Cloud Forest

Floral Fantasy

Garden Rhapsody show

Planet sculpture

Supertree Grove

At the heart of Gardens by the Bay stand the majestic Supertrees, their bionic-like branches soaring skywards like a canopy from a sci-fi realm. Boasting more than 162,900 plants of more than 200 species, these concrete structures sheathed in steel serve as vertical gardens. Among the 18 Supertrees, seven harness solar power to illuminate and cool the conservatories. Their expansive canopies not only absorb and dissipate heat but also provide shelter for visitors strolling beneath.

Exploring the grove is free. Be sure to catch the spectacular Garden Rhapsody light-and-sound show that takes place nightly at 7.45pm and 8.45pm. For panoramic views of Singapore’s cityscape, ascend to the Supertree Observatory, which has an open rooftop deck. The air-conditioned indoor viewing space one level below features a digital presentation centred on climate change. To elevate your experience, traverse the 22m-high OCBC Skyway, connecting six Supertrees for unparalleled vistas. Tickets for the observatory and skyway can be obtained at the Supertree Grove booth.

Flower Dome & Cloud Forest

The two asymmetrical glass-walled bio-domes, reminiscent of giant paper nautilus shells, serve as cooled conservatories for an impressive collection of more than 217,000 plants encompassing 800 species. The Cloud Forest dome is a steamy affair simulating the tropical montane climate typically found at altitudes between 1500m and 3000m. Its centrepiece is a 35m-high waterfall, one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls, surrounded by a verdant mountain adorned with plants from across the globe. Take time to traverse the elevated Cloud Walk, and keep your eyes peeled for horticultural wonders like Venus flytraps and delicate blue oil ferns.

Holding the Guinness World Record for being the largest glass greenhouse, the Flower Dome covers an area equivalent to 75 Olympic-size swimming pools. This ground-breaking megastructure recreates a dry Mediterranean climate, maintaining a temperature range of 23 to 25 degrees C. Complimentary tours are available every weekend from 2pm to 5pm. For an exquisite back-to-nature dining experience, indulge in the offerings of Marguerite, a Michelin-starred restaurant led by Melbourne-born chef Michael Wilson, located within the Flower Dome.

Floral Fantasy

Opened in 2019, the blooming Floral Fantasy interweaves floral artistry and technology. The highlight is the 4D simulated flight ride Flight of the Dragonfly, which takes you on an augmented reality journey. (The minimum height for participants is 1m.) The gardens are divided into four landscapes: wander amid flowering plants in Dance, enjoy the sounds of a bubbling brook at Float, and then enter Waltz, where a rain oasis and a poison dart frog vivarium await. Last, immerse yourself in the cave-like space of Drift, where 50 species of plant bloom from terraced rock formations.

Sublime Sculptures

Gardens by the Bay boasts a diverse collection of more than 200 sculptures from around the world, peppered throughout both its indoor and outdoor areas. A particularly noteworthy piece is the remarkable sculpture Planet by British artist Marc Quinn. Crafted in 2008, the sculpture portrays a massive sleeping infant seemingly suspended above the ground. This extraordinary bronze creation, weighing a substantial 7 tonnes, was modelled after Quinn’s son.

NEED TO KNOW

Reach the gardens from Gardens by the Bay station or Bayfront – take exit B and cross the overhead bridge from Marina Bay Sands. Admission is free, but attractions charge separate fees, and hours (including last admission times) vary.

TOP TIPS

• If you have kids, don’t miss the Children’s Garden, featuring a water-play area, a huge tree house and an adventure playground (plus showers and changing facilities).

• Hire strollers (S$2), lockers (S$4 to S$8) and audio guides (S$4) at the Visitors Centre.

• Gardens by the Bay has several food options. Open-air hawker centre Satay by the Bay (11am to 10pm) dishes up Singaporean favourites such as chilli crab and satay.

• End your day at the Marina Barrage, a popular hangout for Singaporean families and kite enthusiasts, particularly at sunset.

• Shuttles run between Bayfront MRT and the conservatories (9am to 9pm, S$3 return).

LEE KUAN YEW

If there is one individual credited with shaping Singapore’s present success, it is Lee Kuan Yew. Renowned as a visionary statesman and the founding father of modern Singapore, he served as prime minister from 1959 to 1990. Lee’s leadership proved instrumental in elevating Singapore from its post-colonial struggle to a thriving, globally competitive nation.

His legacy is marked by pragmatic policies, incorruptibility, and a forward-looking approach prioritising economic development, education, and social stability. Lee’s unwavering governance and dedication to meritocracy fuelled the country’s rapid advancement. Following his death in 2015 at 91, a remarkable 447,000 people paid their respects to Lee at Parliament House, and an additional 100,000 people lined the streets for his funeral procession.

Fort Canning Park | martinho Smart/shutterstock ©

Dive into Singapore’s Past

Uncover tales from the island

Imaginative and immersive, the National Museum of Singapore is at once cutting edge and classical. The 19th-century colonial space ditches staid exhibits for lively multimedia galleries that bring Singapore’s jampacked biography to vivid life. It’s a colourful, intimate journey, spanning ancient Malay royalty, wartime occupation, nation-building, food and fashion. Don’t miss the magical Story of the Forest inside the 16m-high Glass Rotunda.

CHEAP EATS IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT & MARINA BAY: OUR PICKS

Makansutra Gluttons Bay $ Esplanade’s bayside outdoor food hall has hawker stalls slinging satay and barbecue stingray.

Song Fa Bak Kut Teh $ This local chain has attained cult status with its bak kut teh (pork ribs simmered in a peppery broth).

Lau Pa Sat $ A favourite hawker centre for office workers. Come evening, the facing street (Boon Tat St) transforms into Satay St.

Chin Chin Eating House $ For a no-fuss Chinese comfort feed, step into Chin Chin to devour a plate of its much-lauded Hainanese chicken rice.

Explore War Bunkers at Fort Canning

Retrace steps of Singapore’s history

For a peek at the Singapore of precolonial times, visit Fort Canning Park. The hill it occupies was once the palatial grounds of 14th-century Malay kings who ruled over the island. Malaya princesses bathed in the springs here, while ancient craftsmen plied their trades for the royal family. When the British took over the island, Raffles built his residence here and established the first botanic gardens to stimulate agriculture in Singapore.

During the Battle of Singapore, Fort Canning became an artillery fort complete with barracks, officers’ quarters and underground bunkers. The decision to surrender Singapore to the Japanese was made on 15 February 1942 in a hilltop command centre, which was later named Battlebox. Today, you can descend almost 9m underground into the bomb-proof bunker and wander the eerie 26-room maze. Life-size models recreate the morning when Singapore fell to invading forces. Entry is free, but prebooking a ticket is required.

South of the Battlebox are nine historical gardens that ring the reservoir. The Artisans’ Garden is one of Singapore’s last archaeological dig sites, where researchers have found evidence of an ancient artisans’ workshop. The Fort Canning Tree Tunnel at the northern end of the park is an extremely popular spot with photographers. Don’t be surprised if you have to wait in line for a shot of the tree-laden spiral stairway.

A Colourful Culture

Meet Singapore’s Peranakans

Housed in a classic Straits Settlements bungalow, the Peranakan Museum explores the rich heritage of the Peranakans (people with mixed Chinese and Malay/Indonesian heritage). The galleries cover various aspects of Peranakan art and culture – don’t miss the 12-day wedding ceremony exhibit.

BEST PLACES TO PARTY IN THE CITY

Zouk

Ask Singaporeans where to party and Zouk is unequivocally the answer. This household name at Clarke Quay has been hosting revellers for 29 years.

Marquee

Marina Bay Sands’ exclusive club houses a full-size Ferris wheel and a three-storey slide.

Capital

Zouk’s latest venture is an upscale venue for a mature crowd: the minimum age requirement is 21 for women and 23 for men.

Cherry Discotheque

This retro cave spins new and old-school hip-hop, techno and street music.

Cool Cats

Head to this compact 60-seat jazz joint and groove to soulful performances of jazz, blues and R&B.

Quays to the City

From finance to fun

The Singapore River creates a natural border between the Colonial District and the CBD. This stretch of riverfront is known as the Quays. Boat Quay, Clarke Quay and Robertson Quay are three distinctive areas that have been transformed from grimy commercial districts into shiny entertainment areas. Hop aboard a Singapore River Cruise bumboat and explore the quays from the water.

Boat Quay, closest to the river mouth, was once Singapore’s centre of commerce, but by the mid-1980s, it had fallen into disrepair. Subsequent restoration efforts and a conservation zone declaration revived the original Chinese shophouses and transformed the area, which now bursts with touristy bars and shops. Venture into the streets behind the waterfront for more reasonably priced and authentic pubs and drinking dens.

Moving downstream, rainbow-hued Clarke Quay is the liveliest and most popular of the three quays. Its open-air pedestrian walkways boast a plethora of entertainment options, including the renowned mega-club Zouk.

At the furthest reach of the river, Robertson Quay exudes a more sophisticated ambience than the other quays. Drawing a 30-plus crowd, it appeals to those more inclined towards wining, dining and meaningful conversations rather than succumbing to the beats of Top 40 hits.

MORE PERANAKAN CULTURE

Singapore’s Peranakan culture is showcased in the city’s shophouses, particularly in the neighbourhood of Joo Chiat. To imagine life inside these residences, visit Baba House on Neil Rd in Chinatown.

HOW TO VISIT THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

From the ferry terminal at Marina South Pier, regular daily services from Singapore Island Cruises (islandcruise.com.sg) and Marina South Ferries (marinasouthferries.com) take you to St John’s Island and Kusu Island. A return ticket costs S$15, with services starting at 9am and the last boats leaving the islands at about 6pm.

From Sentosa, Marina South Ferries runs on weekends only from Sentosa Jetty@Cove to Seringat Jetty on Lazarus Island. A return ticket costs S$20, and ferries run every two hours from 9am. Marina South Ferries also offers sunset dinner cruises and a private water taxi service for the Southern Islands.

Sailing to the Southern Islands

Take a break from the city

Off the southeast coast of Sentosa, the three Southern Islands – Kusu, Lazarus and St John’s – are great for a quick, soothing getaway. Although you can reach the islands on weekends via a ferry from Sentosa, the most convenient way is to head to Marina South Pier, south of the Colonial District and Marina Bay.

The first stop is spooky St John’s Island, whose chequered past includes being a quarantine station for immigrants in the 1930s before becoming a political prison and later a rehabilitation centre for opium addicts. Most visitors come for a quiet spot of fishing or to head across the paved walkway to the tranquil sandy beaches on neighbouring Lazarus Island. From Fridays to Sundays, you can hire paddleboards, kayaks and sea bikes from the Lazarus Sea Sports Centre to amp up your water-time fun and purchase essentials and ready-to-grill foods at Sol by BDC, a shipping container convenience store.

St John’s and Lazarus have a couple of sleeping options, from tiny homes and a lodge run by the Singapore Land Authority (a challenge for tourists to book because a government ID pass is required) to glamping tents that are slated to open in 2024. You can hire bikes and kickboards to zip around the two islands from Gogreen Eco Adventure (gogreenecoadventure.com).

Neighbouring Kusu Island has a more local vibe and is where devotees come to pray for wealth and health. Here you’ll find the Da Bo Gong Temple, dedicated to the local god of prosperity, and, up a narrow flight of 152 steps, three Malay kramats (shrines) where devotees can pray for wealth and health. Look out for the Tortoise Sanctuary, home to hundreds of tortoises. The rest of the island is open space, with a sheltered cove to the north and some pavilions for picnickers. You can’t stay overnight, so don’t miss the last ferry back.

Nearby, the coral reefs of Sisters’ Islands have been undergoing restoration. They’re set to reopen to the public with the addition of a snorkelling pool and a forest trail in 2024.

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

TEMPLES, HAWKERS AND TANTALISING TIPPLES

When British colonial administrator Stamford Raffles carved up Singapore along ethnic lines, Chinese settlers were allocated the land west of the Singapore River. Life in colonial Chinatown was tough on new immigrants, characterised by cramped living quarters, harsh working conditions and poor sanitation, often leading to sickness and death. Despite the district’s name, not all the original inhabitants of Chinatown were Chinese. Historic Muslim mosques and Indian temples also dot the neighbourhood’s streets.

Present-day Chinatown contrasts with its historical hardships. Heritage-listed shophouses coexist with shiny skyscrapers, creating a uniquely charming atmosphere. Gone are the filth-strewn back lanes, opium dens, clattering rickshaws and makeshift street-food stalls, replaced by an efficient transport system, organised hawker food centres, rainbow-coloured street art, and a booming restaurant and bar scene. The area still awakens early, bustling with wet markets and kopitiams (coffee shops), and evenings bring a lively atmosphere with workers, hip bars, trendy restaurants and plenty else to discover.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Baba House

SIGHTS

2  Pinnacle@Duxton

3  Seng Wong Beo Temple

ACTIVITIES

4  People’s Park Complex

SLEEPING

5  KēSa House

6  Mondrian Duxton

7  Parkroyal on Pickering

8  The Clan

9  Wink @ Upper Cross Street

EATING

10  Firangi Superstar

11  Hong Lim Food Centre

12  Olivia Restaurant & Lounge

13  Red Star

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

14  No Sleep Club

15  Sago House

SHOPPING

16  Tong Mern Sern Antiques

Chinatown | Derekteo/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

Key MRT stations in the vicinity include Chinatown station, serving the bustling wet market and pedestrian shopping hub, and Telok Ayer station, which is handy for the array of eateries and bars along Amoy St and Club St. Heading south, Outram Park and Tanjong Pagar stations serve as prime access points for Duxton Hill.

TOP TIP

Pagoda St and its immediate surroundings have become a byword for tourist tat, but behind and beyond the stalls crammed with souvenir T-shirts and two-minute calligraphers is a more inspiring selection of shops and galleries selling everything from contemporary local artwork and antique furniture to traditional Chinese remedies.

MORE PERANAKAN ARCHITECTURE

For more stunning shophouses, head to Singapore’s Joo Chiat neighbourhood, as well as over the border in Malaysia, where the Peranakan Mansion in Penang is worth a visit.

Peranakan Heritage Home

Step back in time

Beautiful blue Baba House, one of Singapore’s best-preserved Peranakan heritage homes, is a must-visit for those interested in the rich tapestry of Singapore’s history and traditions. Built in the 1890s, this three-storey prewar terrace house on Neil Rd was the ancestral home of shipping tycoon Wee Bin. The house was acquired by the National University of Singapore, which set about renovating it so that it best matched how it would have looked in 1928 when the Wee family believes the building was at its most splendid.

Step inside and marvel at the meticulously maintained period furniture and antiques, as well as the building’s intricate and elaborate architectural details. You’ll learn the stories of the house and its former occupants, whose original family photos still grace the walls. The ornate bedrooms on the 2nd floor are a sight to behold. Look out for the tenong (wedding gift box), which takes pride of place. Visits are by appointment only – book at babahouse.nus.edu.sg.

Stories of Settlers

Delve into Chinatown’s chaotic past

Explore the gritty backstory of how Chinatown came to be at the immersive Chinatown Heritage Centre. Housed in a converted shophouse, its evocative exhibitions shed light on numerous historical chapters, from the perilous voyages of Singapore’s early Chinese settlers to the development of local clan associations and even the area’s opium dens. At research time, the museum was closed for a revamp but is slated to reopen in 2024.

The Perfect City Plan

Chart Singapore’s urban transformation

Singapore did not just happen. Every inch of the sparkling metropolis was painstakingly planned, and the free Singapore City Gallery provides an insight into the city’s rapid evolution and future growth.

Five galleries house the permanent exhibits. The first, ‘Singapore; Vibrant City’, is a dramatic 270-degree panoramic film on a 12m screen offering a 24-hour perspective on the island. Once you’ve understood what ‘home’ is for Singapore, continue through the numerous interactive and immersive exhibits and galleries, which provide compelling commentary on the government’s resolute land-reclamation policies, high-rise housing and meticulous urban planning. The Central Area Model, which offers a 3D bird’s-eye view of Singapore’s central district, is a highlight. It’s continuously updated to reflect Singapore’s constantly changing urban landscape.

SINGAPORE FOOD FESTIVAL

The Singapore Food Festival (SFF) is an annual culinary extravaganza that celebrates the diverse and delectable flavours of Singaporean cuisine. Typically taking place in July, the festival showcases the city-state’s rich gastronomic heritage through a myriad of food-related events, experiences, and tastings and is held at the purpose-built Food Village.

Local chefs, culinary experts and food enthusiasts come together to explore traditional dishes, contemporary creations and innovative trends. It provides a platform for both established and emerging chefs to showcase their talents while also promoting the rich cultural diversity that defines Singapore’s food scene. Boasting events such as chef masterclasses, food tours and culinary workshops, the SFF is truly a treat for the taste buds.

Breakfast of a Nation

Start your day the local way

Truly immerse yourself in the Lion City by starting your day with a Singaporean breakfast set. Not quite the standard version of eggs and toast, this ‘breakfast set’ consists of two barely boiled eggs (whites teeter on translucent), grilled bread slices filled with pats of butter, and sweet kaya (coconut and egg jam), all washed down with a cup of kopi (coffee). To eat, crack the eggs, add soy sauce and white pepper, mix until they are just combined and then dip in the kaya toast and enjoy.

Order from the coffee/drink stalls at hawker centres or head to a Ya Kun Kaya Toast outlet. The original shop location on China St is the best.

EATING IN CHINATOWN: OUR RESTAURANT PICKS

Cloudstreet $$$ If you’re after an unforgettable modern European gastronomic experience, this is the place.

Olivia Restaurant & Lounge $$$ Be transported to Barcelona with these tantalising Catalan and Mediterranean dishes.

Red Star $ Replete with trolley-clutching aunties, old-school Red Star is the perfect spot for lunchtime Hong Kong–style dim sum.

Firangi Superstar $$ Touted as a foreigner’s love letter to the subcontinent. The food is a dazzling reinterpretation.

A PUBLIC HOUSING SUCCESS STORY

Singapore’s Housing and Development Board (HDB) flats are a cornerstone of the city-state’s housing landscape, accommodating 77% of the resident population. Built by the government, these high-rise residential buildings are affordable and offer well-designed living spaces catering to diverse family needs. The HDB estates feature amenities such as schools, parks, event spaces, shops and hawker centres.

Though most flats are privately owned, continuous government-funded renovation and upgrading programs ensure the livability and modernisation of the estates. The award-winning 50-storey Pinnacle@Duxton is Singapore’s most impressive. The project consists of seven apartment towers connected by two levels of sky bridges. For S$6, you can visit the 50th-floor rooftop for jaw-dropping city views.

Streets of Worship

Take in timeless temples

As Chinatown was the landing spot for most of Singapore’s new immigrants, it’s not surprising that its streets are filled with temples and places of worship representing many religions. These temples collectively weave a narrative of spiritual diversity within Chinatown, inviting visitors to appreciate the harmonious coexistence of different religious traditions in this dynamic district of Singapore.

Among the noteworthy temples is the Thian Hock Keng Temple, dedicated to Mazu, the goddess of the sea. Built between 1839 and 1842, it is one of the area’s oldest and most important Hokkien temples. Here you will also find the Al-Abrar Mosque, built in the 1850s, and the Nagore Durgha Shrine, a mosque built between 1828 and 1830 by Chulia Muslims from South India. It’s now home to the Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre.

Moving to South Bridge Rd reveals the Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple, embellishing Chinatown with its intricate gopuram (tower). Next door, the mint-green Jamae Mosque, completed between 1830 and 1835, stands as one of Singapore’s oldest, offering an educational insight into the Islamic faith. Further down the road is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, a hulking Tang-style Chinese Buddhist temple built in 2007. Home to the purported left canine tooth of the Buddha, the temple features a 320kg solid-gold stupa, a museum on Buddhism, and a serene rooftop garden with a giant prayer wheel inside a 10,000 Buddha Pavilion. All those wearing respectful attire (no shorts, t-shirts or revealing clothes) are free to enter.

Next-Gen Hawker Stalls

Taste the future of hawker cuisine

Hawker culture is deeply intertwined in the culinary DNA of Singapore, a fact rightfully recognised when this dimension of the city’s food scene earned a place on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2020.

But as the older generation of hawkers heads into retirement, many Singaporeans worry that this integral part of Singapore’s national identity will be lost. Taking up the challenge, a new breed of hawkers is dishing out great meals on the cheap while infusing traditional recipes with unique twists. At Chinatown’s Amoy Street Food Centre, a hotbed of next-gen hawkers, you’ll find A Noodle Story (stall 01-39), where young chefs Gwern Khoo and Ben Tham have perfected their version of Singapore-style ramen, and the constant line confirms its popularity. Other shoutouts go to Lagoon in a Bowl (stall 01-48), where the charred sous-vide salmon ‘swims in a lagoon’ of naturally dyed blue butterfly pea rice, and Coffee Break (stall 02-78), a humble drink stall run by a trio of siblings who took over the reins from their father. They serve up good old Singaporean kopi with a twist – black-sesame lattes and ginger milk tea, anyone?

DRINKING IN CHINATOWN: COOL COCKTAIL SPOTS

Native Surprising ingredients and clever twists result in unique tipples at this drinking den on the upper floor of an Amoy St shophouse.

No Sleep Club What started as a pop-up is now a cemented star on Singapore’s bar scene – its two owners are local cocktail legends.

Sago House This neighbourhood bar has a loyal clientele. Head to its Duxton Hill shophouse location and look for the iron hand.

Employees Only Look out for the ‘psychic’ sign, behind which you’ll find this local outpost of the famous New York City cocktail bar.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Chinatown Heritage Centre

2  Thian Hock Keng Mural

SIGHTS

3  Al-Abrar Mosque

4  Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

5  Jamae Mosque

6  Nagore Durgha Shrine

7  Paper Mask, Mamashop, Lion Dance Head Maker

8  Singapore City Gallery

9  Sri Mariamman Temple

10  Thian Hock Keng Temple

SLEEPING

11  Beary Best! Hostel Chinatown

12  Bohemian

EATING

13  A Noodle Story

14  Amoy Street Food Centre

15  Chinatown Complex

16  Cloudstreet

17  Lagoon in a Bowl

18  Maxwell Food Centre

19  Ya Kun Kaya Toast

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

See 17  Coffee Break

20  Employees Only

21  Native

22  Tea Chapter

SHOPPING

23  Anthony the Spice Maker

24  Peranakan Tiles Gallery

CHINATOWN’S BEST SHOPPING

People’s Park Complex

Heady with the scent of Tiger Balm, Singapore’s oldest mall is known for its cheap massage joints and traditional Chinese medicine dispensaries.

Anthony the Spice Maker

Replicate the flavours of Singapore at home with a spice or blend from this spice maker’s treasure trove.

Tong Mern Sern Antiques

A hunting ground for Singapore nostalgia and treasures packed with dusty furniture, books, woodcarvings and porcelain.

Peranakan Tiles Gallery

Fallen in love with the colourful tiles that adorn many of Singapore’s shophouses? This shop offers an array of vintage and replica pieces.

Steeped in Ritual

Learn the art of fine tea

In Singapore, the art of tea drinking has evolved to embrace a diverse array of experiences. Traditional tea houses and local kopitiams coexist with trendy bubble tea shops and upscale tea salons. Take your tea tasting to another level by undertaking a tea-appreciation course and become a tea master at Tea Chapter, a serene teahouse near Maxwell MRT station.

Heritage-Scene Street Art

Become part of the past

Amid Singapore’s relentless progression from old to new, local self-taught artist Yip Yew Chong is keeping yesteryear alive with his heritage-scene artworks, many of which are located in Chinatown.

Begin at his 44m masterpiece, adorning the rear wall of the Thian Hock Keng Temple, which tells the story of Hokkien immigrants. From here, walk to Mohamed Ali Ln, where another YC creation called Paper Mask, Mamashop, Lion Dance Head Maker hawks his wares. Go to Temple St and Smith St, where numerous walls have been brought to life. Many of YC’s murals incorporate interactive elements – an empty chair here, a bench spot there – inviting the viewer into the scene. Check YC’s website (yipyc.com) for locations.

EATING IN CHINATOWN: BEST HAWKER CENTRES

Chinatown Complex $ The hardcore hawker experience: more than 260 stalls flooded during lunch and early evenings. Most are shut by 8pm.

Maxwell Food Centre $ One of Chinatown’s most accessible hawker centres, it’s a solid spot to savour hawker staples.

Amoy Street Food Centre $ Heaving during the lunch rush, this airy centre serves traditional dishes, as well as next-gen hawker twists.

Hong Lim Food Centre $ This two-storey food centre near Chinatown MRT is a neighbourhood favourite filled with old-school hawkers.

A QUIET MORNING IN TIONG BAHRU

A walking tour is the best way to soak up the vibe in Singapore’s first public housing estate. Begin at the 1 Tiong Bahru Market and Food Centre and explore the ground-floor wet market and upper-floor hawker centre. Head southeast along Eng Hoon St and duck into 2 Tiong Bahru Bakery for a morning caffeine hit and a pastry.

Continue southeast down the road until you hit the intersection with Tiong Poh Rd and cross to check out 3 Qi Tian Gong Temple, dedicated to the monkey god. From here, it’s a short stroll southwest to 4 Ah Chiang’s, a retro kopitiam (coffee shop) where the star is the charcoal-fired porridge. As you wend your way towards Yong Siak St, take note of the area’s 1920s industrial-inspired architecture. The buildings were built to resemble automobiles, trains, ocean liners and aeroplanes from that era.

Once you reach Yong Siak St, spend some time ducking in and out of hip stores such as independent fashion boutique 5 Nana & Bird, charming children’s bookstore 6 Woods in the Books and quirky 7 Cat Socrates (mind the feline shopkeepers).

Follow the road north as it curves, looking out for old-school corner noodle shop 8 Hua Bee. If it’s lunchtime, it’ll be doing a roaring trade, but for something a little bit unique, head up the car-park driveway and take a left. The second door leads to secret yakitori bar 9 Bincho, one of Singapore’s best.

Head northeast on Seng Poh Rd in the direction of the Market and Food Centre, and take a detour down Seng Poh Ln to view the mural 10 Bird Singing Corner, reminiscent of days long gone when residents would bring their songbirds here to hear them sing.

Little India & Kampong Glam

COLOURFUL ENCLAVE STEEPED IN HISTORY

Little India, originally a settlement of Indian immigrants to Singapore, has transformed into a bustling commercial and cultural hub. Serangoon Rd, the main thoroughfare, hosts businesses, restaurants and landmarks, including the Sri Veeramakaliamman and Sri Srinivasa Perumal temples. The heart of Little India lies in the lively lanes between Serangoon Rd and Jalan Besar, stretching from Campbell Ln to Syed Alwi Rd, offering a sensory feast for visitors. Affordable, authentic Indian cuisine is the main attraction, with shopping and temple-hopping close runners-up.

A short walk southwest on Ophir Rd or a quick MRT ride (Bugis station) leads to Kampong Glam, also known as Arab Street. It’s an intriguing blend of the Islamic and the new generation, a place of storybook mosques, third-wave cafes and eclectic boutiques dotted around brightly painted laneways. Haji Ln, the epicentre, comes alive in the late afternoon with live music and bar patrons spilling onto the sidewalks.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Indian Heritage Centre

SIGHTS

2  Abdul Gafoor Mosque

3  Former House of Tan Teng Niah

4  Kampong Kapor Methodist Church

5  Leong San See Temple

6  Petain Road Terraces

7  Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple

8  Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple

9  Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple

10  Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple

SLEEPING

11  Dream Lodge

12  One Farrer

13  Vagabond Club

14  Wanderlust

EATING

See 13  Komala Vilas

See 14  Kotuwa

15  Lagnaa Barefoot Dining

16  Moghul Sweets

17  MTR 1924

18  Mustard

19  Sungei Road Laksa

20  Swee Choon Tim Sum

21  Tekka Centre

22  Three’s A Crowd

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

See 13  Whiskey Library & Jazz Club

SHOPPING

23  Little India Arcade

24  Mustafa Centre

GETTING AROUND

MRT’s Downtown Line is the main service that connects Little India, Jalan Besar and Kampong Glam to the rest of the island. If you’re coming from Bugis station, make sure to catch the train in the direction of Little India station and not Jalan Besar station; otherwise, your trip will take 20 minutes instead of two minutes. Streets in these areas are quite small, many just laneways, but most are easy to navigate, even if they are filled with streetside vendors and stalls.

The Story of Little India

Explore the Indian Heritage Centre

Delve into the origins and heritage of Singapore’s Indian community at the S$12 million state-of-the-art Indian Heritage Centre. Divided into five themes, its hundreds of historical and cultural artefacts, maps, archival footage and multi-media displays explore everything from early interactions between South Asia and Southeast Asia to Indian cultural traditions and the contributions of Indian Singaporeans to the development of the island nation.

Among the more extraordinary objects is a 19th-century Chettinad doorway, intricately adorned with 5000 tiny carvings. Inspired by the baoli (Indian stepped well), the museum’s architecture is equally intriguing.

TOP TIP

The best way to experience these districts’ intriguing sights, smells and sounds is to explore the lanes on foot. Sundays are the busiest by far, particularly in Little India, which is the only day off for many workers. Arrive with an appetite because the food here is sublime.

Atmospheric Hindu Temples

Colourful sights and sounds

Along Serangoon Rd, you’ll find two of Little India’s most significant temples. Nearest to the Little India MRT station is the visually captivating Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. This temple pays homage to the formidable goddess Kali, showcasing her fierce form adorned with a garland of skulls. The bloodthirsty consort of Shiva has always been popular in Bengal, the birthplace of the labourers who built the structure in 1881. Visitors are welcome, and the temple is at its most evocative during each of the four daily puja (prayer) sessions.

Continuing the spiritual odyssey, the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple emerges further along the road, dating from 1855. A noteworthy addition is the striking 20m-tall gopuram (tower), a remarkable S$300,000 enhancement from 1966. Step inside to encounter statues of Vishnu, Lakshmi, Andal and Vishnu’s avian companion, Garuda, creating a divine sanctuary enriched with history and artistry.

ON FOOT IN LITTLE INDIA

From 1 Farrer Park MRT, head northeast along Race Course Rd to 2 Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple. Peek inside at its 15m-tall Buddha and then cross the street to colourful Taoist 3 Leong San See Temple. The alleyway opposite leads to Serangoon Rd.

Head northeast for a look at Technicolour 4 Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple. Backtrack along Serangoon Rd to the striking 5 Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, Singapore’s first temple for worshippers of Lord Vishnu. Cross the street and head down Petain Rd, where an extraordinary row of 6 shophouses stand. Head back to Serangoon Rd and continue southwest, where blessings give way to bargains at the 7 Mustafa Centre. Further on, pop into 8 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, Little India’s main Hindu temple, and then head along Veerasamy Rd.

Turn right down Kampong Kapor Rd to find the whitewashed 1929 9 Kampong Kapor Methodist Church and then go left along Upper Weld Rd and right into Perak Rd. At Dunlop St, turn left to admire 10 Abdul Gafoor Mosque, a storybook fusion of Arab and Victorian architecture. Above the main entrance is a unique sundial, with Arabic calligraphy denoting the 25 names of the prophets.

Backtrack northwest along Dunlop St to soak up the colourful jumble of shophouses and then cross over Serangoon Rd and head along Kerbau Rd to eye up the kaleidoscopic 11 former house of Tan Teng Niah. Pick your jaw up off the ground and walk down the side alley to Buffalo Rd, a thoroughfare lined with produce and colourful garlands. Finally, slip into the 12 Tekka Centre for some cheap and tasty food.

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple | monticello/shutterstock ©

DITCH THE CUTLERY

Eating with your fingers is customary in India, and you’ll see this regularly in Singapore’s Indian restaurants and the Tekka Centre – in fact, some stalls don’t have cutlery.

To try it yourself, start by washing your hands. If your meal comes with bread, tear off small pieces and fold small bites into them before popping the little parcel into your mouth. Use only your right hand for eating, as the left hand is traditionally used for hygiene purposes.

Meals with rice are trickier. Combine a little rice with your accompanying dish to form a small ball and then lift it to your mouth and push it in with your thumb.

THAIPUSAM CELEBRATIONS

Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple is the starting point for a colourful, wince-inducing street parade (where devotees pierce their skin) during the Thaipusam festival, which is famously celebrated at Malaysia’s Batu Caves.

CHEAP EATS IN LITTLE INDIA

Komala Vilas $ Authentic South Indian vegetarian restaurant serving wafer-thin dosa. Complete your feast with a cup of masala tea.

Sungei Road Laksa $ Join the queue for a fragrant bowl of charcoal-cooked laksa – your taste buds will thank you.

Swee Choon Tim Sum $ This cheap and cheerful dim-sum spot is an institution popular with late-night revellers as it’s open until the wee hours.

MTR 1924 $ Crispy dosas and rava idli, a fluffy semolina cake studded with cashews, mustard seeds, coriander and curry leaves.

THE ISLAND’S BEST TOURS

Jane’s SG Tours

Wander through private colonial black and white homes, or visit unique areas and festivals (janestours.sg).

Betel Box

Legendary food walks, particularly the Friday evening Sins and Salvation through Geylang’s alleyways (betelboxtours.com).

Wok’n’Stroll

Fill your eyes and your belly while discovering the neighbourhoods on these food-centric tours (woknstroll.com.sg).

Singapore DUCKTours

An informative, kid-friendly romp in the ‘Wacky Duck’, a remodelled WWII amphibious warcraft (ducktours.com.sg).

Singapore Sidecar

Take a spin around town in the sidecar of a vintage Vespa. Super fun and great for photos (sideways.sg).

Let’s Go Tour Singapore

A huge variety of tours for all tastes and interests (letsgotoursingapore.com).

Explore Little India’s Shopping Havens

Eat, shop and eat some more

Located next to Little India MRT station, the Tekka Centre is often hailed as the beating heart of Little India – and boy, oh boy, does it get pumping! The multiuse building encompasses a wet market, a food centre and a range of shops – it’s loud, busy and a riot of colour. Check out the colourful wet market, Singapore’s most extensive, before heading to the hawker area for some delicious Indian fare. Queue up for real-deal biryani, paper-thin dosa (lentil-flour pancakes), fluffy roti prata (Indian flatbread) and delectable murtabak (stuffed savoury pancakes). Wash it all down with some teh tarik (pulled tea). One floor up is a rainbow-coloured sea of Indian sari and textile stores. It’s probably the cheapest place to pick up an Indian outfit, and while prices are marked, well-mannered bargaining is always worth a try.

Across Serangoon Rd, the Little India Arcade is filled with wall-to-wall shops, pungent aromas and Hindi film music. For sweet treats, head to Moghul Sweets – the gulab jamun (syrup-soaked fried dough balls) and barfi (condensed milk and sugar slice) are highlights.

Continue north up Serangoon Rd, and you’ll come to the Mustafa Centre, Singapore’s long-revered epicentre of bargain shopping. It’s a sprawling maze-like place, selling everything from electronics and gold jewellery to shoes, bags, luggage, fabric and beauty products. There’s also a large supermarket with a great range of Indian foodstuffs. A word of warning – it’s crazy busy, especially on Sundays.

Old & New Kampong Glam

Traditional Muslim quarter reinvented

Just a short distance from Singapore’s gleaming Central Business District and grand colonial buildings, you’ll find the buzzing area of Kampong Glam, where the juxtaposition of old and new creates a tapestry of colours. Start your adventure on Haji Lane, a narrow street lined with pastel-hued shophouses that host an eclectic mix of quirky boutiques, vintage shops, hole-in-the-wall craft beer bars and high-impact street art. Although establishments seem to change rapidly – likely because of sky-high rents – generic chain stores have not taken over the area. Instead, up-and-coming independent designers and charming cafes clamour for a foothold, ensuring the area always has something new to check out.

One block over, Arab Street awaits, offering stores that showcase more traditional wares, including fabrics, carpets and scarves. Make sure to visit Dilip Textiles, a one-stop shop for vibrant block-printed table linens at affordable prices. Another must-visit is Sifr Aromatics, a perfume emporium specialising in custom blends. Immerse yourself in a treasure trove of olfactory delights.

Nearby, marvel at the fairy-tale Sultan Mosque and stroll through the eye-catching murals at Gelam Gallery, found in the back alleys on either side of pedestrianised Bussorah St. When hunger pangs remind you it’s time for a meal break, you’ll find plenty of places to grab a bite. Note that some restaurants do not serve alcohol.

EATING IN LITTLE INDIA: NOSH HOT SPOTS

Kotuwa $$ Culinary delights inspired by Michelin-starred chef Rishi Naleendra’s Sri Lankan heritage, with zesty cocktails to match.

Lagnaa Barefoot Dining $$ Slip off your shoes, choose your spice level (above 3 is brave) and be treated to homestyle Indian cooking.

Mustard $$ Focusing on Bengali and Punjabi cuisines, this small restaurant is often filled with diners savouring its kebabs and curries.

Three’s A Crowd $ If the sun (or curries) have you burning up, head here for some sublime ice cream – the localised flavours are a must-try.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Sultan Mosque

SIGHTS

2  Gelam Gallery

3  Malay Heritage Centre

4  Parkview Square

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

5  BluJaz Café

SLEEPING

6  Andaz Singapore

7  Dream Chaser Boutique Capsule Hotel

EATING

8  Alaturka

9  Cicheti

10  Coconut Club

11  Zam Zam

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12  Atlas

13  Bar Stories

14  Good Luck Beerhouse

SHOPPING

15  Arab Street

16  Dilip Textiles

17  Haji Lane

18  Sifr Aromatics

THE GRAND SEAT OF ROYALTY

The area of Kampong Glam is the historic seat of Malay royalty, resident here before the arrival of Stamford Raffles. The istana (palace) on this site was built for the last sultan of Singapore, Ali Iskandar Shah, between 1836 and 1843. Its buildings were converted into the Malay Heritage Centre museum in 2015 (malayheritage.gov.sg), and its galleries explore Malay-Singaporean culture and history, chronicling the early migration of traders to Kampong Glam and the evolution of Malay-Singaporean cinema, theatre, music and publishing.

Closed for a revamp, it’s slated to reopen in 2025.

EATING IN KAMPONG GLAM: OUR PICKS

Coconut Club $$ Famous for its fragrant nasi lemak (the secret is in the coconuts), but everything on the menu is utterly scrumptious.

Cicheti $$$ Italian-cuisine enthusiasts flock to this buzzing hot spot for silky handmade pasta and rustic wood-fired pizzas.

Alaturka $$ Generous sharing plates of Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine; don’t miss the moreish lavash bread.

Zam Zam $ Serving murtabak (pancakes filled with mutton, chicken, beef, venison or sardines) since 1908. Huge servings.

SINGAPORE’S STREET ART REVOLUTION

Jane Iyer, tour guide and founder of Jane’s SG Tours, explains how the Lion City became a lot more colourful.

(janestours.sg)

Historically, Singapore’s government held a disapproving view of street art and graffiti; however, over the past decade, there has been a notable shift in its stance. A prominent figure in the local street art scene is Yip Yew Chong, who is celebrated for his heritage-themed works that grace various neighbourhoods, earning affection from Singaporeans.

Notably, the Kampong Gelam murals on Arab Street vividly narrate the rich stories of the area, capturing the lives of its inhabitants and showcasing the prevalent industries that define this dynamic locale.

Crane statue, Parkview Square | Erwin Dimal/shutterstock ©

Kampong Glam’s Golden-Domed Hub

Be entranced by a whimsical mosque

The Sultan Mosque is Singapore’s grandest. Seemingly pulled from an Arabian Nights storybook, it’s nothing short of enchanting. Founded in 1824 with the assistance of Sir Stamford Raffles and the East India Company after Raffles’ treaty with the sultan of Singapore allowed the Malay leader to retain sovereignty over the area, it showcases Indo-Saracenic style and boasts a majestic golden dome.

In 1928, the original mosque was replaced by the present building, designed by an Irish architect. Non-Muslims should not enter the prayer hall, and all visitors are expected to dress suitably – no shorts, T-shirts or revealing clothes. Cloaks are available at the entrance.

An Art Deco Extravaganza

The Golden Age of design and cocktails

The magnificent tower of Parkview Square is known locally as the ‘Gotham City Building’. Its art deco exterior is inspired by the Chanin Building in New York City, and its open-air plaza has an array of statues and sculptures, most notably a majestic golden crane poised to take flight. The jaw-dropping architecture continues within. The grand 15m-high lobby is adorned with marble floors, gilded brass and intricate frescoes. Here is where you’ll find the swanky Atlas cocktail bar, whose centrepiece is a 12m gin tower that will make your eyes pop. Gin devotees should book a Gin Tower Experience, an exclusive tour of the tower accompanied by gin tastings.

DRINKING IN LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM: OUR PICKS

Bar Stories A menu-free zone; mention your likes and dislikes and the gung-ho mixologists will concoct a smashing libation.

BluJaz Café A chilled-out local favourite that pulses with regular live gigs, jam sessions and comedy nights.

Good Luck Beerhouse Beloved for its 12 taps of Singaporean craft brews; perfectly paired with small bites inspired by Asia’s street eats.

Whiskey Library & Jazz Club An opulent haven for whiskey aficionados, offering more than 1000 bottles from near and far.

Orchard Road

MEGAMALLS AND SHOPHOUSE GEMS

Now internationally famous, Orchard Rd was once a dusty, tree-flanked track leading to the spice plantations and orchards that dominated the area back in the 1830s. Nearly a century would pass before the road began its transformation into the showcase for the material delights of capitalism that it is today.

As Singapore gained independence in 1965 and experienced rapid economic growth, the area boomed with commercial and retail businesses clamouring for every inch of street frontage. These days, the strip is home to every brand imaginable, from emerging local designers to global high-street heavyweights and coveted European couture. It’s the epitome of modern consumerism, but Orchard Rd also offers a few cultural gems, such as Emerald Hill Rd’s heritage shophouses and the Istana, the president’s residence, and its informative museum. But it can’t be denied that this place is all about retail therapy. You can shop until you drop, pick yourself up, and shop some more.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Design Orchard

2  Emerald Hill Road

3  ION Orchard Mall

4  Istana

SIGHTS

5  ION Sky

6  Istana Entrance Gateway

7  Istana Heritage Gallery

8  Tang Plaza

ACTIVITIES

9  Trifecta

SLEEPING

10  Goodwood Park Hotel

See 30  JEN Singapore Orchardgateway

11  Lloyd’s Inn

12  Pan Pacific Orchard

13  St Regis

14  Voco Orchard

EATING

15  Alchemist The Heeren

16  EatAlley

See 3  Food Opera

17  Merci Marcel

18  Privé Paragon

See 29  Takashimaya Food Village

19  Wild Honey

20  Wisma Atria Food Republic

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

See 3  Atico Lounge & Bar

21  Manhattan

22  No 5

23  Other Room

SHOPPING

24  313@Somerset

25  Benjamin Barker

See 29  Beyond the Vines

26  Editor’s Market

27  Far East Plaza

See 3  In Good Company

28  Lucky Plaza

29  Ngee Ann City

30  Orchard Central

31  Paragon

32  Tanglin Mall

33  Tangs

INFORMATION

34  Thai Embassy

GETTING AROUND

Orchard Rd is serviced by three MRT stations. But should you choose to explore the tree-lined pavement, you’ll discover expansive and impeccably maintained paths designed to effortlessly accommodate the bustling crowds of shoppers.

If weather conditions pose a challenge, numerous buses traverse Orchard Rd, which flows in a one-way direction towards the city. Alternatively, you can seamlessly transition into the interconnected malls through a network of air-conditioned underground walkways.

Malls, Malls, Malls

Where to go for what

Among the most renowned shopping temples, ION Orchard Mall reigns supreme, with plenty of fancy restaurants in case you need the stamina to keep shopping. If you have little ones to adorn, make a beeline for Paragon, where you’ll find upscale designer threads for tiny tykes as well as toy stores and an indoor playground. The impressive Ngee Ann City shopping centre hosts all the usual players, plus a branch of the prestigious Japanese department store Takashimaya. Most boutiques in these malls have queues, kept in check with velvet ropes.

If high-street labels are more your style (and price range), you can usually find branches in the basement levels of luxury malls, but if you’d like to see your fashion in daylight, head to 313@Somerset and Orchard Central, where you’ll get more bang for your buck. If it’s more one-of-a-kind clothing boutiques and unique homewares you seek, explore expat-focused Tanglin Mall.

Despite the glitz and glamour of Orchard Rd, some budget-friendly shopping spots still exist. Lucky Plaza is a beacon for many of the country’s foreign domestic workers. Hidden slightly off the main drag on Scotts Rd is Far East Plaza (not to be confused with Far East Shopping Centre). It’s filled to the brim with cheap and cheerful fashion boutiques, beauty spas and suit makers.

TOP TIP

Singaporeans treat shopping as a national sport, and the Orchard Rd malls can get incredibly crowded. Head in as the centres open (usually around 10am) and enjoy a serene hour or so.

ORCHARD ROAD’S LAST BUILDING BLOCK

Visitors often wonder why the Thai Embassy occupies such a large and prominent space amid Orchard Rd’s staggeringly expensive real estate. The story goes that back in the 1990s, the Thai government was offered S$139 million for the embassy’s 17,500-sq-metre plot, but the offer was declined because selling the land would be disrespectful to the memory of the revered King Chulalongkorn (Rama V; 1853–1910), who reportedly picked the land up for a mere S$9000 in the 1890s. And so the embassy remains to this day, drooled over by developers who yearn for its coveted location.

Peranakan houses, Emerald Hill Rd | Fandistico/shutterstock ©

A Row of Shophouse Beauties

Marvel at Emerald Hill’s architecture

Take time out from shopping to wander up frangipani-scented Emerald Hill Rd, graced with some of Singapore’s finest terrace houses. Like most of the surrounding area, it was once filled with spice plantations and orchards before being carved up into land parcels in the early 1900s. Special mentions go to No 56 (one of the earliest buildings here, built in 1902), Nos 39 to 45 (unusually wide frontages and a grand Chinese-style entrance gate), and Nos 120 to 130, with art deco features dating from about 1925. At the Orchard Rd end is a cluster of popular bars, perfect for a post-shopping drink.

EATING IN ORCHARD ROAD: BEST CAFES

Merci Marcel $$ Breezy outdoor tables are coveted at this French-inspired nosh spot, especially at lunch. Book, or arrive before 11.30am.

Alchemist The Heeren $$ Coffee enthusiasts love this minimalistic sip-and-go spot hugging the outside of The Heeren. The pastries are great.

Wild Honey $$ Longtime Orchard Rd favourite serving up excellent all-day breakfasts inspired by all corners of the globe.

Privé Paragon $$ Watch bustling shoppers while enjoying a bite to eat from this serene cafe’s menu of mixed Asian and Western cuisines.

The Palace of a Nation

Peek inside the guarded gates

The grand, whitewashed, neoclassical home of Singapore’s president, occupying more than 40 hectares of manicured grounds, was built by the British between 1867 and 1869 as Government House. Known as the Istana – istana is the Malay word for ‘palace’ – it was renamed Istana Negara Singapura (Palace of the State of Singapore) when the Lion City achieved internal self-government in 1959. The name was shortened to the Istana on 9 August 1965, when Singapore separated from the Federation of Malaysia to become an independent sovereign nation. This date is celebrated annually as the National Day of Singapore.

Most visitors will see only the heavily guarded gates fronting Orchard Rd, but the public is welcome inside five times a year. Open-house days are set to coincide with public holidays, but check the official website (istana.gov.sg) to confirm. Across Orchard Rd, in Istana Park, you can learn all about the Istana at the Istana Heritage Gallery.

Thrills & Spills

Swap the shops for the slopes

If the idea of endless shopping fails to excite you, prepare for an adrenaline-pumping experience at Trifecta, which opened in 2023 near Somerset MRT station. Embark on a thrilling journey where mountains, waves and even snow (well, a lifelike surface mimicking snow) await. This unique destination allows you to ski, snowboard, skate and surf within the urban heart of Singapore.

At the Surf Arena, brace yourself for Asia’s grandest standing wave pool, spanning an impressive 10m in width and capable of generating waves towering up to 1.5m. It’s an ideal playground for both youthful adventurers (with a minimum age requirement of six years old in the snow, surf and skate arenas) and those young at heart.

ORCHARD ROAD’S BEST LOCAL BRANDS

Design Orchard

Celebrating Singaporean craftsmanship and design innovation, this store, in a building conceptualised by renowned homegrown firm WOHA, is a world-class platform for all things local.

Beyond the Vines

The epitome of SG cool, this comprehensive, multidisciplinary design studio offers womenswear, menswear, bags and lifestyle products.

In Good Company

A label of wardrobe essentials for men and women, defined by a clean and modern aesthetic.

Benjamin Barker

Stylish menswear studio with creatively tailored suits and shirts, along with all the accessories to complete your look.

Editor’s Market

A modern-day market for all things indie, with an extensive selection of fashion apparel, footwear and accessories.

MORE ADRENALINE-PUMPING FUN

For more exhilarating experiences that will set your heart pounding, head to Sentosa, Singapore’s island of fun that’s home to a plethora of thrilling attractions sure to leave you breathless.

DRINKING IN ORCHARD ROAD: BEST BARS

Manhattan Inspired by the Golden Age of cocktails, this grand hotel bar is an absolute must for aficionados of fine libations.

Atico Lounge & Bar Atop Ion Orchard, 55 stories into the sky. Knockout views, classy cocktails and substantial bar bites.

Other Room In the Marriott’s lobby, this speakeasy-inspired watering hole is the ultimate destination for lively late-night tipples.

No 5 Bar in a 1910 Peranakan shophouse, complete with hanging red Chinese lanterns. The martinis provide sweet relief from Orchard Rd.

TANGS

A pivotal moment in the evolution of Orchard Rd unfolded in 1958 with the debut of CK Tang, the precinct’s inaugural department store. It was conceived by the visionary Tang Choon Keng, once a peddler selling his wares from a roadside rickshaw, who foresaw Orchard Rd’s remarkable ascent – a prophecy that materialised.

The original edifice drew inspiration from Beijing’s Imperial Palace. In its 1982 reconstruction, the distinctive green-tiled roof and red colonnades seamlessly integrated into Tang Plaza, accompanied by a 33-storey pagoda-like tower. This tower and the five-floor department store below have become an enduring retail landmark, solidifying Tangs as a cherished Singaporean institution, anchoring itself firmly on this iconic shopping strip.

ION Orchard | sirastock/shutterstock ©

Sky-High City Views

Observe Orchard shoppers from above

If you’re feeling high after splashing some moolah at ION Orchard, prepare to get a lot higher. ION Sky is perched 56 levels up and offers an impressive view of the surrounding areas. On clear days, you can see Malaysia to the north and Indonesia to the south. Download the ION Sky app to identify local landmarks through augmented reality. To secure a spot (limited daily availability from noon to 4pm), take the lift from level 4, near Concierge, to 1-Atico, and present any same-day receipt of a minimum of S$50. You’ll get a complimentary welcome drink.

EATING IN ORCHARD ROAD: BEST FOOD COURTS

Wisma Atria Food Republic $ A cornucopia of Asian street food in air-conditioned comfort.

Takashimaya Food Village $ Sprawling subterranean food hall with an array of Japanese, Korean and other Asian delights.

Food Opera $ In an upscale setting at ION Orchard, Food Opera showcases local cuisine surrounded by colonial heritage decor.

EatAlley $ Malaysian food fans flock to this food court that serves up dishes from seven of Kuala Lumpur’s famous eateries.

Holland Village, Botanic Gardens & Dempsey Hill

EARTHY WONDERS AND FOODIE HAVENS

It’s almost surreal to discover a serene pocket of greenery, indie boutiques and gourmet hideaways nestled so close to the bustling glamour of Orchard Rd. The highlight of this juxtaposition is the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This verdant oasis beckons exploration, deserving a dedicated few hours to thoroughly soak up its charms.

Just across from the Botanic Gardens’ Tanglin Gate lies the leafy expanse of Dempsey Hill, a former British Army barracks transformed into a haven of art galleries, high-end grocers, chic boutiques and upscale dining establishments. Further west on Holland Rd, you’ll find chic, salubrious Holland Village, which offers a revealing slice of expat life. It’s fast becoming an incubator for local talents, as several up-and-coming fashion designers and chefs have set up shop in this neighbourhood. By night, you can indulge in craft beers and cocktails at plenty of lively bars and low-key pubs.

EATING

1  2am: dessertbar

2  Baker & Cook

3  Black Marble by Otto

4  Craftsmen Coffee

5  Original Sin

6  Tiong Bahru Bakery

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

7  Wala Wala Cafe Bar

SHOPPING

8  Bynd Artisan

9  Holland Road Shopping Centre

10  Independent Market

See 9  Lim’s Holland Village

11  Ong Shunmugam

12  Our Second Nature

GETTING AROUND

The Singapore Botanic Gardens and Holland Village are easily accessed by MRT, but Dempsey Hill is a little more inconvenient to get to. You can walk from the Singapore Botanic Gardens or catch a bus (7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123 or 174) from behind Orchard MRT, on Orchard Blvd. A free shuttle service is also available. Check the website (dempseyhill.com/shuttlebusschedule.html) for details. A taxi costs S$10 to S$15 from the CBD.

Hill Station Turned Entertainment Enclave

An oasis of charm and calm

Once a colonial hill station, the lush expanse of Dempsey Hill is veiled in tropical foliage and studded with upscale restaurants and captivating art galleries, catering primarily to expats and moneyed Singaporeans. Originally named Tanglin Barracks, this historic site dates from 1861 and served as one of Singapore’s inaugural British Army barracks. Soldiers resided in spacious elevated wooden structures crowned with thatched attap (palm) roofs, featuring amenities such as hospital wards, washhouses, kitchens, a library, a school and office quarters.

Transitioning from its military roots, Dempsey Hill evolved into the Ministry of Defence’s headquarters from 1972 to 1989, metamorphosing subsequently into its present incarnation as a sophisticated shopping and dining haven.

At the end of Dempsey Hill’s Loewen Rd, you’ll come to Ridley Park, an estate named in honour of Henry Ridley, the inaugural director of the Singapore Botanic Gardens. These residences once accommodated British officers overseeing the adjacent barracks. A stroll down Ridley Park Rd unveils a picturesque ring road, offering charming glimpses into the architectural splendour of these historic homes.

TOP TIP

The Singapore Botanic Gardens spreads across 81 hectares. Plan your route in advance and prepare to spend at least a whole afternoon or morning here.

DEMPSEY HILL’S BEST SHOPS

Dover Street Market

Founded by Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo and her husband, this concept store is full of luxury fashion brands and streetwear labels.

Kids 21

Kit your kids from head to toe in designer duds and accessories at this emporium curated for the under-12 cool crowd.

Terra Madre

A shop and restaurant with Singapore’s largest collection of natural and organic foods, including plenty of vegan options.

Redsea Gallery

A contemporary gallery selling a curation of stunning artworks created by regional emerging and established artists.

Mr Bucket Chocolaterie

A Singapore-based chocolate company creating can’t-stop-at-one treats and gifts using responsibly sourced single-estate Asian chocolate.

Get Snappy at the Museum of Ice Cream

Unleash your inner child

In vivid contrast to Dempsey Hill’s black-and-white aesthetics is the psychedelic pink Museum of Ice Cream. This dessert-themed wonderland offers a multisensory journey for photo-hungry travellers. The sprinkle pool is a content creator’s dream. A bonus is the unlimited ice cream you can scoff. Don’t miss the nostalgic local Singaporean ice cream sandwiches in lychee bandung and taro milk tea flavours.

EATING IN HOLLAND VILLAGE: OUR PICKS

Black Marble by Otto $$$ Western restaurant serving grilled-to-perfection meats including dry-aged ribeye and lamb racks.

Craftsmen Coffee $ Home-brewed gourmet beans, plus delectable brunches with loaded waffles and croissant sandwiches.

2am: dessertbar $$$ Sweet showstoppers with wine and cocktail pairings at this swanky hideout of revered pastry chef Janice Wong.

Original Sin $$ Much-loved vegetarian restaurant, keeping veggie lovers content with Mediterranean and Italian dishes since 1997.

Museum of Ice Cream | Leandro Bai/shutterstock ©

HOLLAND VILLAGE’S BEST LOCAL BUYS

Lim’s Holland Village

This shop overflows with Asian-inspired homewares and furniture, from Chinese wedding cabinets to ginger-jar lamps.

Bynd Artisan

Browse the vast range of bespoke stationery, leather and jewellery, or book a session to create your own custom design.

Our Second Nature

A Singaporean-owned boutique known for comfortable, light everyday wear.

Ong Shunmugam

The gallery-esque shop of Priscilla Shunmugam, one of Singapore’s top up-and-coming designers, is just as stunning as her modern interpretations of Asian dresses.

Independent Market

Bypass the tourist tat and pick up some quirky and well-designed Singaporean-themed trinkets and homewares.

Expat-Heavy Enclave

Village-like shopping and nightlife scene

West of Dempsey Hill lies the vibrant enclave of Holland Village, a cosmopolitan district teeming with an international flair. This expat-friendly neighbourhood boasts a plethora of diverse restaurants, lively bars and trendy shopping spots. Lorong Mambong, the artery that cuts through Holland Village, is pedestrianised in the evenings and flanked by lively eateries and pubs. With attractive happy-hour specials, the bars draw throngs of workers keen to let their hair down after the day is done. A hot favourite, Wala Wala Cafe Bar is perennially packed at weekends, thanks to its beer towers and large sports screens.

Holland Village takes on a different character during daylight hours, becoming a hub of local activity as residents go about their daily routines. The ageing Holland Road Shopping Centre remains a focal point, drawing those in search of art, handicrafts, homewares and grooming treatments. Its two levels house a variety of establishments, including nail spas, hair salons and massage parlours.

Just across Holland Ave, tranquil Chip Bee Gardens lies along Jln Merah Saga, offering a quieter side to Holland Village. This area is dotted with charming outdoor coffee spots, including outlets of the popular Tiong Bahru Bakery and Baker & Cook, and a selection of local boutiques.

EATING IN DEMPSEY HILL: BEST RESTAURANTS

Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar $$$ This restaurant serves to-die-for food amid a striking tropical black and white interior.

Candlenut $$$ Michelin-starred spot where Singaporeans bring out-of-towners for a meal of refined Peranakan cuisine.

Open Farm Community $$$ Farm-to-table pioneer serving modern European cuisine in a revamped greenhouse.

Burnt Ends $$$ It shifted to this larger space in 2022, but it’s still practically impossible to get a seat. A must-try for barbecue lovers.

TOP SIGHT

Singapore Botanic Gardens

The country’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Singapore Botanic Gardens have been a major centre for plant conservation and research in Southeast Asia since 1875. The gardens offer more than just a refreshing burst of greenery amid the bustling city – they’re a ravishing sprawl of ancient rainforests, themed gardens, rare orchids, free concerts and alfresco gourmet spots.

Symphony Lake | Bima Eriartha/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for prices and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

National Orchid Garden

Ginger Garden

Symphony Lake

Learning Forest

Heritage Museum

Como Adventure Grove

Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden

Swan Lake

National Orchid Garden

Orchids have been bred and cultivated in the National Orchid Garden since 1928. The 3-hectare space is a showcase of more than 1000 species and 2000 hybrids, about 600 of which are on display at any time. Descend into the futuristic glass-walled Tropical Montane Orchidetum, which simulates the climate in a mountainous forest, before ducking inside the Tan Hoon Siang Mist House, a paleotropical garden with highlands conditions.

Ginger Garden

Located next to the Orchid Garden, the 1-hectare Ginger Garden is the cosy habitat for more than 250 members of the Zingiberaceae family. This themed garden also has a sublime waterfall that hides a secret cave and a tranquil pool brimming with Amazon water lilies. Take a break in Halia, a gorgeous ginger-centric restaurant.

Symphony Lake

More than 200 species of palm trees are speckled across the wide, manicured slopes of Palm Valley. A stage rises in the midst of it all, floating above Symphony Lake like an islet in the water. This is where many free concerts, including the Singapore Symphony Orchestra’s monthly SSO in the Park event (sso.org.sg), take place. Occasional free film screenings are shown on the slopes of Palm Valley.

Learning Forest

Hit the elevated walkways of the Learning Forest, to explore environments ranging from a freshwater forest wetland to a lowland rainforest. Walk in the shadow of some of the tallest trees in Asia at the Walk of Giants, sprawl out on the spider-mesh net of the 8m-high Canopy Web, or stroll along the boardwalks alongside the marsh at the Keppel Discovery Wetlands.

SBG Heritage Museum

If the heat is too overwhelming, head indoors to the 240-sq-metre SBG Heritage Museum, located in Holttum Hall, and browse multimedia exhibits that detail the Gardens’ rich heritage. The old photographs, artefacts, plant specimens and rare botanical books that date from the early 19th century give a fascinating look into the past. The museum is closed on the last Monday of each month.

Swan Lake

One of three lakes in the Botanic Gardens, Swan Lake boasts a large bronze sculpture of a flock of swans taking flight, considered to be the oldest ornamental water feature in Singapore, and a tiny island cluttered with nibong palms that were recorded to have been planted here in 1891. Look out for the real mute swans, imported from Amsterdam.

A Children’s World

Travellers with little ones shouldn’t miss the Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden at the northern end of the gardens. The kid-centric green space has nature-themed interactive zones, including a sensory garden. Thrill-seekers will love the suspension bridge, treehouse and floating platform. After sweating it out, tiny tots can cool off in the brightly coloured water-play feature.

At the western end of the gardens, the Como Adventure Grove centres on a 10m banyan tree–like structure with climbing ropes, hammocks and a lookout point for children to climb and swing from. There are two swings, a mini obstacle course and a climbing structure shaped like a jackfruit.

NEED TO KNOW

The gardens are open from 5am to midnight daily, and the numerous Visitor Services centres open from 8am to 5.30pm. Entry to the gardens is free, except for the National Orchid Garden. The Botanic Gardens MRT station is close to the Bukit Timah Gate, the north end, and near the Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden. The Napier MRT station is closest to the Tanglin Gate, which is opposite Dempsey Hill.

TOP TIPS

• The best time to visit the Botanical Gardens is early in the morning when the temperature is mild.

• Most parts of the gardens have shade, but it’s wise to bring a sunhat, sunscreen and plenty of water.

• Watch out for wildlife, especially monitor lizards. Keep a distance and make sure not to feed them.

• Check the gardens’ website (nparks.gov.sg/sbg) for a schedule of upcoming concerts, which are staged for free by Symphony Lake.

• The gardens run free guided tours every Saturday (except for the fifth Saturday of the month). Register at the service desk.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Singapore Botanic Gardens

SIGHTS

2  Dempsey Hill

3  Ginger Garden

4  Learning Forest

5  Museum of Ice Cream

6  National Orchid Garden

7  Ridley Park

8  SBG Heritage Museum

9  Swan Lake

10  Tanglin Gate

EATING

11  Burnt Ends

12  Candlenut

13  Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar

14  Halia

15  Open Farm Community

SHOPPING

16  Dover Street Market

17  Kids 21

18  Mr Bucket Chocolaterie

19  Red Sea Gallery

20  Terra Madre

Eastern Singapore

RELIGION, EATS AND PERANAKAN TREATS

Singapore’s eastern coastline was once a settlement that saw its fair share of pirate vessels and naval scuffles. The area was long characterised by its kampongs (villages), mango swamps, coconut plantations and holiday bungalows for wealthy city folk, but that all changed when the East Coast land reclamation scheme began in 1962, adding 1525 hectares of land and, in turn, spurring population growth.

These days, the eastern neighbourhoods offer an intriguing insight into Singaporean culture. Closest to the city is Geylang, once a notorious red-light district but now an area that’s spiritually rich with temples and mosques. To the east is Joo Chiat, a picturesque enclave of multicoloured shophouses and the heartland of Singapore’s Peranakan community. Bordering Joo Chiat and stretching for several kilometres along the seafront, East Coast Park is filled with recreational activities. Further east is Changi, where you’ll find the moving Changi Museum and the launching place for bumboats to the island retreat of Pulau Ubin.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  East Coast Park

SIGHTS

2  Jousting Painters Mural

3  Kuan Im Tng Temple

4  Lorong 24A

5  Lorong 27

6  Lorong 34

7  Peranakan Terrace Houses

8  Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple

9  The Intan

ACTIVITIES

10  Climb Central

SLEEPING

11  Betel Box

12  Coliwoo Hotel Gay World

13  Hotel Indigo

EATING

14  126 Dim Sum Wen Dao Shi

15  328 Katong Laksa

16  Baba Chews

17  Chin Mee Chin Confectionery

18  Durian Culture

19  Geylang Lor 9 Fresh Frog Porridge

20  Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre

21  Guan Hoe Soon

22  No Signboard Seafood

23  Old Airport Road Food Centre

24  Old Bibik’s Peranakan Kitchen

25  Roland Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

26  Common Man Coffee Roasters

27  Kings Cart Coffee Factory

28  Supernova

SHOPPING

29  Cat Socrates

30  Hat of Cain

31  Kim Choo Kueh Chang

32  Rumah Bebe

33  Teong Theng Co

See 29  TheAC Boutique

GETTING AROUND

Eastern Singapore hasn’t been well served by the MRT. Aljunied is Geylang’s closest station. Paya Lebar and Eunos take you to the north end of Joo Chiat, and a taxi is your best bet for East Coast Park.

However, that’s all changing in 2024 when the Thomson-East Coast Line opens with stops at Katong, Marina Parade and Siglap. The next stage of MRT development will stretch the line even further and is slated to open in 2025. To head out to Changi Village and Changi Chapel and Museum, get on Bus 2 from Tanah Merah MRT.

Get Active in the East

From chilling to heart pounding

Eastern Singapore covers a vast swath of land from Geylang to Changi, with abundant space to stretch your legs and get your heart pumping.

Known as East Coasters’ communal backyard, the 15km stretch of seafront known as East Coast Park is where Singaporeans come to swim, windsurf, wakeboard, kayak, picnic and bike. You’ll find swaying coconut palms, patches of bushland, a lagoon, watersports clubs and some excellent eating options. Kid-friendly playgrounds abound, while bike hire is conveniently scattered along the shoreline.

Embark on an exhilarating aerial escapade at action-packed treetop Forest Adventure. The grounds cater to various age groups with three distinct courses (minimum height requirement of 110cm and recommended minimum age of five). Thrill-seekers will revel in wobbly crossings and adrenaline-pumping zip lines. Older children can conquer the Big Zip, spanning 300m over water from a 14m-high platform.

Get splash happy at water-themed fun park Wild Wild Wet. Its 16 ‘rides’ include twisting water slides, a wave pool and a mat-racer water slide. If you’re after a serious thrill, hit the Torpedo, which will hurtle you from an 18m-high capsule for a free fall you won’t forget in a hurry.

Ascend to awe-inspiring heights at indoor vertical playground Climb Central, catering to adventure seekers of all ages. Scale multiple high walls and embrace the challenge of the bouldering area.

TOP TIP

This area comes to life at night. Spend an afternoon wandering the streets of Joo Chiat and then head to bustling Geylang for local food and people-watching.

WHO ARE THE PERANAKANS?

In Singapore, Peranakan (locally born) people are descendants of immigrants who married local women mainly of Malay origin. The result of hundreds of years of immersion and the meeting of foreign and local customs has resulted in an intriguing hybrid culture that’s experiencing a revival.

It’s acknowledged that the Peranakan fall into three broad categories. The Chitty Melaka and Jawi Peranakan are descended from Indian migrants, while the Straits Chinese Peranakan, Singapore’s largest group, are of mainland Chinese origin.

The rich tapestry of heritage, culture, customs and traditions comes to life in a captivating display at both Singapore’s Peranakan Museum and Baba House.

Changi Chapel | Steve Lovegrove/shutterstock ©

Discover Geylang’s Hidden Secrets

Spiritual hub with a naughty side

All those salacious rumours about Geylang being an open-air meat market peppered with brothels, girly bars and dubious hotels are absolutely accurate. The district is a long way from Bangkok’s Patpong, but a nocturnal stroll along its streets reveals a pretty risqué ambience – well, at least by Singaporean standards.

Yet strange as it may seem, Geylang is also one of the Lion City’s spiritual hubs, with plenty of temples, mosques, religious schools and shrines. Several fetching lorongs (alleys) well worth checking out during a daytime stroll include tree-lined Lorong 27, chock-a-block with colourful shrines and temples. Chanting is a familiar sound on Lorong 24A – many of its renovated shophouses are home to small Buddhist associations. Gorgeous Lorong 34 boasts restored and unrestored shophouses painted in varying hues, several colourful shrines and braziers for burning incense.

Geylang’s other blessing is its food scene. Geylang Rd and Sims Ave teem with cheap, tasty, unceremonious local eateries. If you’re feeling adventurous, treat yourself to a bowl of frog porridge, for which the area is famous. Try it at Geylang Lor 9 Fresh Frog Porridge. Late-night revellers head to never-closed 126 Dim Sum Wen Dao Shi for a delicious dumpling pick-me-up.

EATING IN EASTERN SINGAPORE: BEST HAWKER CENTRES

East Coast Lagoon Food Village $ Head to beachside East Coast Park as the sun sets for smoky satay and grilled seafood.

Old Airport Road Food Centre $ Boasting an army of 168 stalls, you’ll find many ‘die, die, must try’ dishes in this behemoth hawker centre.

Pasir Ris Central Hawker Centre $ This food centre is filled with local treats on the ground floor and multicultural eats above.

Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre $ Lined with Malay and Indian stalls, this is a good spot for nasi padang (rice with curries).

KING OF FRUITS

Durians get a bad rap in Singapore. They’re banned from nearly all public transport (most notably the MRT), few hotels allow them through their doors, and many shopping malls enforce a ‘no durians’ policy. Why? Well, they reek.

However, many Singaporeans adore them, so you should at least try one. You’ll find several street-side stalls, including Durian Culture, with tables for feasting at the city end of Sims Ave. The sellers happily advise what to pick and how to eat it. Use the offered gloves, or your hands will stink for days.

Moving Prisoner of War Tribute

Stories from the inside

The Changi Chapel and Museum stands as a tribute to the resilience and courage of the civilian internees and prisoners of war (POWs) held here during the Japanese occupation.

Over eight zones, the museum chronicles the internees’ harrowing experiences through personal artefacts, interactive displays, photographs and gripping accounts. A poignant highlight is the replica Changi Prison cell, complete with an authentic door. Built for one, these cells were used for up to four prisoners. Visitors can hear historical recordings of conversations between internees through speakers in the cell. Resourcefulness and determination are showcased in the tiny Morse code transmitter hidden in a matchbox and the replica British and Australian patchwork quilts created by women internees. These quilts sometimes carried secret codes embedded in the motifs, with messages only loved ones could decode.

The museum is also home to remarkable full-size replicas of the famous Changi Murals painted by POW Stanley Warren in the old POW hospital. The original murals, located in Block 151 of the nearby Changi Army Camp, are inaccessible to the public.

The museum’s centrepiece is a replica of the Changi Chapel built by inmates as a focus for worship and a sign of solidarity. Here, visitors can find the Changi Cross, crafted in 1942 using the casing of a 4.5in howitzer shell and brass strips.

MEMORIES & MONUMENTS

For a deeper understanding of Singapore’s military history, you can visit several poignant sites, including the Battlebox in Fort Canning Park, Bukit Timah’s Former Ford Factory and Kranji War Memorial.

DRINKING IN EASTERN SINGAPORE: BEST CAFES

Common Man Coffee Roasters With an in-house coffee academy and roastery – good coffee is a given. All-day brunching at its finest.

PS.Cafe East Coast Park All the black-and-white beachy feels with stellar water views, food and coffee.

Supernova Caffeine to compliment the hearty breakfasts. Nighttime brings cocktails and natural wines.

Kings Cart Coffee Factory For those serious about coffee, this is the place. Pick your caffeine, then dive into the menu of brunch hits.

A WALK OF DISCOVERY THROUGH JOO CHIAT

Joo Chiat is best seen on foot so that you can admire the architecture and duck into the area’s boutiques and cafes. Start your adventure at 1 Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre. Explore the wet market before grabbing some eats at the hawker centre.

Head south across Changi Rd and down Joo Chiat Rd before taking a left onto Joo Chiat Tce. Visit 2 Hat of Cain if you’re in the market for a genuine Panama before walking on to view a stunning row of shophouses and check out 3 The Intan, a private museum. Tour bookings are required (the-intan.com).

Turning right at Everitt Rd, you’ll see the playful 4 Jousting Painters mural by Ernest Zacharevic, dubbed Malaysia’s Banksy. Continue south to Joo Chiat Pl, with a line of elegant shophouses. Double back towards Joo Chiat Rd and head left down Tembeling Rd to the ornate 5 Kuan Im Tng Temple and then turn right onto Joo Chiat Ln and head back to Joo Chiat Rd.

Grab a caffeine boost at 6 Common Man. No visit to Joo Chiat would be complete without a walk past the colourful shophouses of 7 Koon Seng Rd. Once you’re photo-ed out, continue down Joo Chiat Rd, popping in and out of old stores, such as rattan haven 8 Teong Theng Co, and funky boutiques, including 9 TheAC Boutique and 10 Cat Socrates. Turn right when you reach East Coast Rd to discover Peranakan boutique 11 Rumah Bebe and snack purveyor 12 Kim Choo Kueh Chang. Finally, take a right on Ceylon Rd to visit the stunning 13 Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple before doubling back to cult-status 14 328 Katong Laksa for a bowl of lip-smacking goodness.

Enjoy a Beachside City Break

Sea breezes and a village atmosphere

On the far northeast coast, Changi Village is a welcome respite from the commotion of the city. Exploring this area provides a glimpse of a more laid-back Singapore, where locals embrace sleeveless t-shirts, board shorts and flip-flops – the quintessential heartlander uniform. While the low-slung buildings are modern, the atmosphere exudes a village-like charm, and the lively Changi Village Hawker Centre is the focal point. Foodies flock here for the three nasi lemak (coconut rice) stalls, sparking endless debates about which serves the best version. To join the discussion, sample a plate from Mizzy Corner (stall 01-23/26), International Muslim Food Stall Nasi Lemak (stall 01-23) and Changi Famous Nasi Lemak (stall 01-28).

Crossing the footbridge to Changi Beach, you’ll come to a place where thousands of Singaporean civilians were executed during WWII. You can stroll and sunbathe here, but the beach isn’t ideal for swimming.

Adjacent to the hawker centre and a short distance from Changi Beach is Changi Point Ferry Terminal, where you can catch bumboats (motorised sampans) to nostalgic Pulau Ubin. The starting point for the Changi Point Coastal Walk – a breezy 2.2km-long boardwalk that takes you past mangroves, a sandy beach and the verdant grounds of government holiday villas – is just beyond the terminal.

The walk leads to the private Changi Sailing Club, whose public Georges@ Changi restaurant-bar is a beautiful spot to polish off a couple of beers while gazing out at bobbing yachts. Alternatively, head back to Changi Village and take a seat at Little Island Brewing Co, a microbrewery and smokehouse, for sundowners and live music.

SINGAPORE’S BUDDING BAR SCENE

Adrian Leow, bartender at Native, offers insights into Singapore’s cocktail scene. (tribenative.com)

In the wake of the pandemic, Singapore’s bar scene has not only bounced back but has come roaring back to life. While it was already evolving before the lockdowns, it’s now busier and more exciting than ever.

At Native, we were one of the first to emphasise local and regional ingredients, a trend now driving the cocktail scene. There are plenty of new bar openings, and bartenders and establishments frequently collaborate on events and pop-ups, including takeovers and guest spots. It’s a great way to showcase all the new techniques and flavours Singapore has to offer, while also fostering a wonderful sense of community within the industry.

A Day Trip to Pulau Ubin

Old-school island village feels

Just a 10-minute bumboat ride from Changi Village, Pulau Ubin (Granite Island) seems worlds apart from mainland Singapore and is the perfect city getaway for those who love the outdoors, particularly cycling.

Singaporeans like to wax nostalgic about Ubin’s kampong (village) atmosphere, and it remains a rural, unkempt expanse of jungle full of fast-moving lizards, strange shrines and a cacophony of birdlife. Set aside a full day if you can. It takes a couple of hours just to get here, and once you arrive, you won’t want to be rushed. Make sure to bring cash.

Half the fun of exploring Ubin’s sights is finding them. Once you hop off the ferry, hire a bicycle from the main village and take to the trails. At the far east, you can park your bike to explore Chek Jawa Wetlands, with a 1km Chek Jawa Boardwalk and 20m-high Jejawi Tower. The visitors centre is located in House No 1, a conserved 1930s Tudor-style mansion that supposedly has the country’s only working fireplace.

You’ll find wildlife in abundance. Keep your eyes peeled for crabs in the water, Oriental pied hornbills flying by or small wild pigs in the forest. See what a typical village house looks like at the conserved Teck Seng’s Place and then visit the meandering Sensory Trail to get a sense of the old plantations.

To the west, you’ll find the Ketam Mountain Bike Park and some great viewing points over the disused quarries, and on the way is the serene Wei Tuo Fa Gong Temple, with its turtle-filled pond, and the quirky German Girl Shrine, built for an unnamed German girl who lived and died on the island during WWI.

You will find little in the way of shopping on Pulau Ubin, just a few shops selling snacks and refreshments. There are a couple of places to get a meal. Our pick is Cheong Lian Yuen, which serves zi char (sharing) and seafood dishes, or Melah Cafe, a quaint weekend-only place serving halal Malay dishes such as lontong (coconut-curry vegetable stew).

To get to Pulau Ubin, take a bus or a taxi to Changi Point Ferry Terminal, from which many small bumboats make the journey to Pulau Ubin in just 15 minutes. Each bumboat takes up to 12 passengers, and there is no fixed schedule, as boats leave when they’re full.

A one-way ride costs S$4 per person, and passengers who bring bicycles pay an additional S$2 each way. Have exact change, as the fare is paid in cash directly to the boatman and no tickets are issued.

Boats operate from 6am to 6pm, but aim to leave well before 6pm because there are no other ways to get off the island.

EATING IN JOO CHIAT: PERANAKAN RESTAURANTS

Guan Hoe Soon $$ Singapore’s oldest Peranakan restaurant, established in 1953. Try ayam buah keluak (chicken with dark nuts).

Old Bibik’s Peranakan Kitchen $$ Time-honoured recipes ensure faithful customers. The beef rendang melts in your mouth.

Baba Chews $$ Not strictly Peranakan, but its modern twists on old favourites make it worth a stop.

Kim Choo Kueh Chang $ Traditional nonya kueh and rice dumplings since 1945. The ondeh ondeh (sweet pandan rice-cake ball) is the top pick.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Changi Chapel & Museum

SIGHTS

2  Changi Beach

3  Changi Village

4  Chek Jawa Wetlands

5  German Girl Shrine

6  House No 1

7  Jejawi Tower

8  Pulau Ubin

9  Teck Seng’s Place

10  Wei Tuo Fa Gong Temple

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

11  Changi Point Coastal Walk

12  Chek Jawa Boardwalk

13  Sensory Trail

14  Wild Wild Wet

SLEEPING

15  Bus Collective

EATING

16  Changi Famous Nasi Lemak

17  Cheong Lian Yuen

18  Georges@Changi

19  International Muslim Food Stall Nasi Lemak

See 17  Melah Cafe

See 16  Mizzy Corner

20  Pasir Ris Central Hawker Centre

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

21  Little Island Brewing Co

TRANSPORT

22  Changi Point Ferry Terminal

23  Ketam Mountain Bike Park

EATING IN EASTERN SINGAPORE: HERITAGE HAUNTS

No Signboard Seafood $$ Once an unnamed hawker stall in the ’70s, this is a Singapore icon famous for white pepper and chilli crab.

Chin Mee Chin Confectionery $ This heritage bakery pumps out old-style coffee and bakes. The house-made kaya is a treat.

Hua Yu Wee Seafood $$ Traditional zi char (sharing) dishes in a rambling colonial bungalow. It’s a true Singaporean experience.

Roland Restaurant $$ According to Roland, his mum, Mrs Lim, invented Singapore’s iconic chilli crab in the 1950s. Try it for yourself.

JOURNEY TO THE FAR EAST

Getting to Changi Village is an adventure in itself. One option is to catch the East-West MRT Line to Tanah Merah station, from where bus 2 whisks you into the heart of the village, passing en route interesting old black and white colonial bungalows along Loyang Ave, before terminating beside the renowned Changi Village Hawker Centre.

Another option is to grab a bike from one of the hire kiosks in East Coast Park and pedal the flat and breezy 15km route to the village. You’ll go east through tranquil coastal parkland, north along Changi Coast Rd (heaven for plane spotters) and finally west along Changi Beach before arriving at your beachside destination.

THE OTHER KAMPONG

To experience another heritage village, check out Lorong Buangkok, which is the last surviving kampong on Singapore’s main island. It’s uncertain how long it will be spared from the developers’ bulldozers.

Northern & Central Singapore

THE CITY’S GREEN LUNGS

With its medley of nature reserves, parks and hiking trails, this wonderfully wild and gloriously green part of Singapore offers an excellent respite from the concrete jungle. As part of Singapore’s ‘City in a Garden’ master plan, new reserves are springing up in this part of the island, expanding its ever-growing network of green spaces.

With treetop walks and mountain biking trails, northern and central Singapore has much for outdoorsy types to explore. Active travellers should hit the cross-country Rail Corridor trail, stretching from Kranji Node in the north to Clementi Forest in the south. Lovers of animals should make a beeline for the Mandai Wildlife Reserve, made up of the world-renowned Singapore Zoo, River Wonders, Night Safari and Bird Paradise. Each place promises a highly educational and engaging experience.

Further afield there are temples, monasteries, a traditional kampong (village), historic war sites and even a little-known hot spring.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Mandai Wildlife Reserve

SIGHTS

2  Bird Paradise

3  Giant Panda Forest

4  Hampstead Wetlands Park

5  Night Safari

6  Nyungwe Forest Heart of Africa

7  Ocean Network Express Penguin Cove

8  River Wonders

9  Singapore Zoo

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

10  Amazon River Quest

11  HomeTeamNS Khatib

12  PAssion WaVe @ Sembawang

13  SAFRA Yishun

See 24  Seletar Aerospace Park

14  Sembawang Hot Spring Park

SLEEPING

15  Glamping in the Wild – Singapore Zoo

16  Orchid Country Club

EATING

17  Ah Meng Restaurant

18  Jalan Kayu Thasevi Food

19  Wheeler’s Estate

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

20  Nelson Bar

21  Youngs Bar & Restaurant

ENTERTAINMENT

22  Creatures of the Night

23  Rainforest Kidzworld

SHOPPING

24  The Oval

TRANSPORT

25  Seletar Airport

GETTING AROUND

This area of Singapore is encircled by the North-South Line and crisscrossed by the Downtown Line. Many of the nature reserves can be accessed on the Downtown Line. Beauty World MRT station is the main gateway to the Bukit Timah and Rifle Range reserves, while Hillview station gives access to the most historic section of the Rail Corridor. The four parks at the integrated Mandai Wildlife Reserve are a short ride on the shuttle bus from the Khatib MRT station (North-South Line).

The Ultimate Wildlife Adventure

See animals up close

An unforgettable animal experience awaits at Mandai Wildlife Reserve, an integrated nature and wildlife precinct. While you can do all four parks in one day, you’re best off choosing two or three or spreading your visit over two days.

Make your first stop at the Singapore Zoo, where across 26 lush hectares, 300 species of animals roam in spacious enclosures. Orangutans are the stars: watch as they swing from tree to tree or snap a photo with them during feeding sessions (11am and 3.30pm). You can have ‘Breakfast in the Wild’ in their company at the zoo’s Ah Meng Restaurant (9am to 10.30am on weekends and public holidays).

Kids can run free at the colourful Rainforest Kidzworld, with slides, swings and a carousel. Little ones can also ride ponies, feed farmyard animals and get wet in the water-play area. (Don’t forget to pack swimwear, sandals and a change of clothes.)

The compact River Wonders is a refuge for more than 11,000 land and aquatic animals. Discover the underwater habitats of world-famous rivers, including the Nile, Yangtze and Congo. The Giant Panda Forest also draws a crowd, and don’t miss the Amazon River Quest boat ride (additional S$5/3 per adult/child).

Opened in 2023, the spectacular Bird Paradise is a sanctuary for 3500 feathery residents from 400 species, and it’s divided into eight walk-through aviaries that replicate habitats from across the world. The largest is the Nyungwe Forest Heart of Africa, modelled on the forested valleys of continental Africa, and Ocean Network Express Penguin Cove has one of the world’s biggest sub-Antarctic saltwater habitats.

The acclaimed Night Safari offers an entirely different type of nightlife. As its barriers melt away in the darkness, the park gives you the feeling of travelling through a jungle filled with lions, leopards and elephants. Silent open-sided shuttle trams cart visitors on a 45-minute tour (with commentary) of the park’s animals and habitats, but to really explore, go on foot through the atmospheric walking trails.

Kids will enjoy the Creatures of the Night show. Seating is unassigned, so arrive early. Shows are at 7pm and 9.30pm nightly, plus 10pm on weekends and public holidays.

Bundle and promo tickets are available via the website (mandai.com) – you can also add on any of the extra-charge In-Park Experiences.

To get to Mandai Wildlife Reserve, take the MRT to Khatib (North-South Line) and catch the Mandai Shuttle (S$2) from Exit A. To catch the last train home, which leaves at 11.22pm to the CBD, make sure you leave Night Safari around 10.30pm. A taxi ride to or from the city is about S$25, and you’ll find the ranks at Mandai East car park for the Zoo, River Safari and Night Safari and at the entrance of Bird Paradise. There’s a S$3 surcharge for departing rides.

TOP TIP

Once you’re out on the walking trails, it can be very hot and humid – and there’s nowhere to buy supplies. Wear a hat, slather on mosquito repellent, carry plenty of water and bring snacks to keep you going. Do not feed the monkeys.

THE FALL OF SINGAPORE

The Battle of Singapore, fought from 8 to 15 February 1942, was a critical engagement during WWII that culminated in the fall of the British stronghold. Japanese forces, commanded by General Tomoyuki Yamashita, executed a meticulously planned invasion, and Singapore succumbed in a mere seven days.

The surrender of more than 80,000 Allied troops marked the largest capitulation in British military history. The fall of Singapore had profound geopolitical implications, shattering the perception of imperial invincibility and reshaping the dynamics of power in the Pacific.

Where an Island Surrendered

Discover a dark chapter of Singapore’s history

The former Ford Motors assembly plant is best remembered as the place where the British surrendered Singapore to the Japanese on 15 February 1942. It’s now home to the Former Ford Factory, a museum that charts Singapore’s descent into war, the three dark years of Japanese occupation, and Singapore’s recovery and path to independence. This sombre story is told through audio interviews, newsreels and clippings, photographs, diaries, and harrowing personal accounts.

DRINKING IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE: OUR PICKS

Sixteen Ounces Bar & Kitchen This fun bar at the Rail Mall serves craft brews and local fusion delights by Indian taqueria Taco Mantra.

Youngs Bar & Restaurant This black-and-white bungalow is the idyllic spot for a pint of Erdinger and modern European dishes.

Nelson Bar Near the Sembawang Wharf, Nelson Bar has retained its history through sailors’ old pictures and scribbles on its walls.

Lazy Lizard Located just off busy Bukit Timah Rd, the outdoor patio fills with workers downing a few on their way home.

Mandai Wildlife Reserve | Arun D Nambissan/shutterstock ©

Tackle Singapore’s Longest Trail

Hike north, south or central

Set to span the entire island from north to south by 2026, the 24km Rail Corridor is Singapore’s first long-distance trail. Government agency NParks has turned a railway line connecting Singapore and Malaysia into a contiguous green spine, planting more than 52,000 native trees and shrubs along the corridor and restoring belts of forest and rebuilding the natural habitat for endangered animal species.

The hiking trail is divided into three sections. The 4km central trail near Bukit Timah is the most popular tract, packing in interesting historical features such as the 1932 Bukit Timah Truss Bridge and Bukit Timah Railway Station, with a handy refuelling stop at the 1932 Story Cafe.

South of Bukit Timah, the 10km southern trail is less scenic and still being restored. Its main appeal is the Clementi Forest, home to 98 species of vascular plants, including the rare Dienia ophrydis orchid. The 10km northern trail, north of Hillview station, takes you through the real countryside of Singapore.

Visitors with limited time are best advised to focus on the central trail and explore the offshoot nature reserves in the vicinity. Use the Rail Corridor’s website (railcorridor.nparks.gov.sg) to plan your itinerary.

The two endpoints of the Rail Corridor can be accessed from Kranji MRT station and (by 2026) Tanjong Pagar Railway Station. To walk the entire 24km, begin at the Kranji Node (northern end) or Spooner Rd (southern end), a short walk from Outram Park MRT. For a shorter, 7.5km hike along the route’s most historic parts, start at Buona Vista station and end at Hillview station.

NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE’S BEST NATURE SPOTS

Chestnut Nature Park

Mountain bikers will love the dedicated mountain biking trails, from beginner to crazy advanced. Practise your tricks at the two skill parks.

Rifle Range Nature Park

Traverse the elevated Gliders Boardwalk to the Quarry Wetland, a freshwater ecosystem backed by cliffs.

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

Topped by Singapore’s tallest peak (a paltry 163m), this swath of primary rainforest once teemed with tigers.

Hindhede Nature Park

Hike kid-friendly trails to the majestic Hindhede Quarry.

Dairy Farm Nature Park

The original cow shed is now the Wallace Education Centre, where visitors can learn about the geography and biodiversity of the region.

EATING IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE: BEST LOCAL EATS

Jalan Kayu Thasevi Food $ OG place that’s been tossing up Singapore’s best roti prata (flatbread) and fish curry since the 1960s.

Come Daily Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee $ Awarded a Michelin Plate, this noodle stall in Toa Payoh West Food Center is popular.

Cook House by Koufu $ Well-designed food court at Waterway Point serving up local dishes such as roast-pork noodles.

Sin Ming Roti Prata $ Famous for mini-sized coin prata that’s perfect for dipping in the accompanying thick curry sauce.

NORTHERN & CENTRAL’S BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

SAFRA Yishun

Challenge yourself to go to great heights at the Canopy Sky Walker, where you’ll be hoisted up 15m to 18m to clear four tiers of obstacles.

HomeTeamNS Khatib

One of Singapore’s largest adventure hubs, this recreation centre is equipped with a massive climbing wall, an obstacle course, an outdoor pool and more.

PAssion WaVe @ Sembawang

Offers all kinds of watersports, from kayaking to dragon boating, sailing, windsurfing and stand-up paddleboarding.

Paddle Lodge @ MacRitchie

Hire a kayak and take to the glassy waters of MacRitchie Reservoir. Kids older than seven can tandem kayak with adults and kids over 12 can kayak alone.

Rise & Shine at MacRitchie Reservoir

A stroll above the trees

Right in the centre of Singapore, MacRitchie Reservoir is a lush green space carved around the massive Central Catchment Area. The nature reserve has six trails ranging from 3km to 11km, with the 11km loop around the reservoir the most popular route. This is one of the best places in Singapore for wildlife spotting, but the macaques can be aggressive – don’t feed or antagonise them.

MacRitchie’s biggest appeal is the TreeTop Walk, a free-standing, 250m-long suspension bridge giving an aerial view of the forest canopy from 25m above the ground.

A kilometre south, the thick foliage parts to unveil the Jelutong Tower, an eight-storey panoramic structure with spiralling stairs that lead to equally impressive canopy views.

Singapore’s Last Remaining Kampong

Travelling back to humbler island days

Singapore has developed so quickly that the island’s once ubiquitous kampong (villages) have all but disappeared. Just one remains on the main island today.

The rustic Lorong Buangkok is an evocative way to experience what life was like in Singapore before independence. The 26 remaining families who live here seem carefree and oblivious to the breakneck pace of life happening outside their rural oasis (the S$6 to S$30 monthly rent probably helps). The area is tiny, so 30 minutes to look around is plenty.

Head into the Toa Payoh Heartland

Temples and memorial halls

To see the real Singapore, you need to come to the heartland. Toa Payoh particularly encapsulates the Singaporean spirit. One of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, Toa Payoh was originally a large marshland (toa payoh translates to ‘big swamp’ in Hokkien) and then a squatters’ district that became notorious for crime. Following government efforts, the area did a complete 180 and today is one of Singapore’s most beloved residential areas.

A great spot to start exploring is Lian Shan Shuang Lin Monastery, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Singapore. Established in 1898, this antiquated monastery was constructed to resemble the Xi Chang Shi temple in Fuzhou, China. Two majestic gates frame the entrance, and carvings adorn a nearby seven-storey pagoda. Working monks still live in the rear halls. To the west of the monastery stands the weathered Cheng Huang Temple, dedicated to the Town God, administrator of justice in the netherworld. The monastery and temple are a 1km walk east of Toa Payoh MRT station.

Across the highway is the Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall, dedicated to the first provisional president of China. Built in the 1880s, this national monument was the headquarters of Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Chinese Revolutionary Alliance in Southeast Asia, which led to the overthrow of the Qing dynasty and the creation of the first Chinese republic. Dr Sun Yat Sen briefly stayed in this house while touring Asia to whip up support for the cause.

EATING IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE: OUR PICKS

Wheeler’s Estate $$$ An exquisite dining destination with a restaurant, bar and alfresco lawnside cafe at Seletar Aerospace Park.

Canopy Bishan $$ Surrounded by lush gardens, this spot in the middle of Bishan Park makes you feel like you’re in a glasshouse.

Mellben Seafood $$ Signature dishes are clay pot crab bee hoon (rice vermicelli noodles), butter crab and the famous chilli crab.

Acqua e Farina $$ This cosy little Italian restaurant uses only the freshest ingredients; the house-made pasta is a showstopper.

HIGLIGHTS

1  Former Ford Factory

2  MacRitchie Reservoir

3  Rail Corridor

SIGHTS

4  Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

5  Bukit Timah Railway Station

6  Bukit Timah Truss Bridge

7  Cheng Huang Temple

8  Chestnut Nature Park

9  Dairy Farm Nature Park

10  Hindhede Nature Park

11  Jelutong Tower

12  Lian Shan Shuang Lin Monastery

13  Rifle Range Nature Park

14  Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

See 6  Central Trail

15  Northern Trail

16  Paddle Lodge @ MacRitchie

17  TreeTop Walk

SLEEPING

18  The Guesthouse

EATING

19  Acqua e Farina

20  Canopy Bishan

21  Come Daily Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee

22  Mellben Seafood

23  Sin Ming Roti Prata

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

24  Lazy Lizard

See 19  Sixteen Ounces Bar & Kitchen

CHANGI AIRPORT

Aviation geeks who enjoy watching the planes take off at Seletar should make time to linger at Changi Airport. Directly connected to Terminals 1, 2 and 3 is Jewel, a shopping centre packed with everything you could want at an airport, from restaurants dishing out the flavours of Singapore to local and international retailers, spas, lounges, and a hotel.

However, it’s the 40m-high HSBC Rain Vortex, the world’s largest indoor waterfall, cascading from the centre of the toroid glass dome ceiling that will take your breath away. In the evening, the water becomes a screen for a dazzling light-and-sound show.

Relax in Sembawang Hot Springs

Bubbling goodness

Discovered in 1909, the Sembawang hot spring became popular with locals, who believed the water was curative and therapeutic. During WWII, the Japanese converted the site into thermal onsen baths and then it fell into disuse. It was restored in the early 1960s, and another revamp saw it transformed into Sembawang Hot Spring Park in 2020.

The spring now features a cascading pool where water drawn up directly from the ground (at a sizzling 70 degrees C) cools down naturally to a balmy 40 degrees C in the lower tier. The highlights include the bottommost pool, where you soak your feet, and the egg stations, where you can bring your own eggs to boil.

Aviation-Themed Fun at Seletar Aerospace Park

Veer off the beaten path

East of Mandai Wildlife Reserve, the little-visited Seletar countryside is something of a local secret. During the colonial days, the British developed a Royal Air Force station here, which served Singapore from 1928 to 1971. Today, the area is dominated by the tiny Seletar Airport and black and white houses that have been transformed into The Oval, an assembly of restaurants, spas and shops.

On the fringes of Seletar Aerospace Park, a boardwalk (near Hyde Park Gate) runs parallel to the airport. Strolling eastwards leads to Hampstead Wetlands Park, an inviting marshland perfect for bird-watching.

West & Southwest Singapore

WILD WONDERS AND OFF-RADAR ATTRACTIONS

Despite Singapore’s modernisation and its image as a meticulously planned Garden City, pockets of wild terrain can still be found in the west and southwest of the island. This region, witness to intense WWII battles, now hosts some of the country’s finest nature reserves, offering underrated opportunities for hiking and wildlife enthusiasts.

Historically, the west remained less developed, a world apart from downtown urbanisation. In the 1970s, Singapore’s economic ambitions led to a significant clearing of greenery for industry and residential expansion. Land was reclaimed, and the coastlines were pushed back to make room for burgeoning ports and factories, and even the offshore islands were transformed into centres of heavy industry.

Today, the western district is Singapore’s primary manufacturing hub, undergoing further development focusing on improved transport infrastructure. While perhaps less renowned than downtown districts, western Singapore offers a unique, nature-rich counterpoint for visitors with time to explore beyond the metropolitan core.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve

SIGHTS

2  Jurong Lake Gardens

3  Kranji Countryside

4  Kranji Marshes

5  Kranji War Memorial

6  Science Centre Singapore

ACTIVITIES

7  Jurong East Swimming Complex

SLEEPING

8  Gardenasia Farmstay Villas

EATING

9  Yuhua Village Food Centre

Kranji War Memorial | TravellingFatman/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

Singapore’s west and southwest cover a fairly large area – you need a few days to comfortably explore. Not all sights are conveniently reached by public transport, so it works best to visit sights grouped by location to minimise the time spent travelling from the downtown core.

This vast area is served pretty well by the MRT, and lines currently under construction will add to the area’s accessibility. HarbourFront, Jurong East, Boon Lay, Chinese Garden, Pioneer and Kranji are useful stations that are either within walking distance to sights or have a bus connection.

For more out-of-the-way places, you can take a taxi from the MRT. Kranji countryside is serviced by a shuttle on weekends and public holidays from the Kranji MRT station.

Trek in an Eco-Wonderland

Mangroves and migratory birds

Bird-watchers flock to Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve, home to more than half of Singapore’s bird species and a haven for migratory birds escaping the winter cold. September to March is the best time for bird-watching. With more than 200 hectares of habitat ranging from mudflats and mangroves to ponds and forests, the reserve offers the opportunity to wander along the boardwalks and keep an eye out for mudskippers, monitor lizards and the occasional estuarine crocodile.

If that’s not enough nature for you, the neighbouring Kranji Marshes are one of the largest freshwater marshes in Singapore. Climb up Raptor Tower for a panoramic view of the surroundings, and keep a lookout for rare birds during the raptor-migration season from November to March.

Pay Respects at a Hilltop Memorial

Remembering the fallen

More than 4400 white headstones are neatly lined up on a verdant hillside at the Kranji War Memorial. This serene cemetery commemorates Allied servicemen from the British Commonwealth who died during WWII. More than 24,000 names are inscribed on four memorials on top of the hill to remember those without graves.

Experience Singapore’s Weirdest Theme Park

Dioramas of Chinese folklore

Haw Par Villa belonged to Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, sons of the man who created the now famous medicinal salve Tiger Balm. Originally known as the Tiger Balm Gardens, the villa’s park reflects the family’s love of Chinese culture and depicts many famous Chinese tales and ethics in detailed and fanciful dioramas. The half-animal sculptures are particularly bizarre.

The park is free to enter except for Hell’s Museum (S$18/10 adult/child). This encompasses the infamously gruesome Ten Courts of Hell exhibit, a dark walkthrough depicting the gory tortures awaiting sinners when they die.

BATTLE OF OPIUM HILL

Opium Hill, or Bukit Chandu in Malay, stands on Pasir Panjang Ridge (now Kent Ridge). it derives its name from the opium-processing factory once located at the foot of the hill. The Battle of Pasir Panjang was a crucial episode during the defence of Singapore in WWII, unfolding on 13 February 1942.

Japanese forces sought to breach the Allied defences along the island’s west coast. The Malay Regiment, made up primarily of local soldiers, heroically defended Pasir Panjang Ridge. Despite fierce resistance, overwhelming Japanese numbers eventually prevailed.

The battle marked a significant stage in the fall of Singapore, highlighting the determination of Allied forces and the harsh reality of their ultimate defeat.

EATING IN WEST & SOUTHWEST SINGAPORE: BEST CHEAP EATS

ABC Brickworks Food Centre $ Great food near the Southern Ridges; named for the brick factories formerly on the site.

Timbre+ $ A mixture of traditional and new-age hawker stalls, with the addition of live music, craft beer and graffiti artwork.

Colbar $ Hainanese-style Western classics in a former officers’ mess in western Singapore.

Yuhua Village Food Centre $ Heartland gem near Jurong Lake Gardens with Michelin Bib Gourmand–awarded stalls and long queues.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Mt Faber Park

SIGHTS

2  Alexandra Arc

3  Gilman Barracks

4  Haw Par Villa

5  Henderson Waves

6  HortPark

7  Kent Ridge Park

8  Labrador Nature Reserve

9  Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum

10  Mt Faber

11  NUS Museum

12  Reflections at Bukit Chandu

13  Telok Blangah Hill Park

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

14  Berlayer Creek Boardwalk

15  Forest Walk

16  Marang Trail

SLEEPING

17  Momentus Hotel Alexandr

18  Shipping Container Hotel @ Haw Par Villa

19  Villa Samadhi

EATING

20  ABC Brickworks Food Centre

21  Alkaff Mansion

22  Ce Soir

23  Colbar

24  Keng Eng Kee (KEK) Seafood

25  Naked Finn

26  Tamarind Hill

27  Timbre+

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

28  Brass Lion Distillery

SHOPPING

29  VivoCity

Back to School

Hidden museums on campus

The National University of Singapore campus is home to two underrated museums. The grassy, boulder-like building that houses the Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum displays more than a million specimens that showcase the biodiversity of Southeast Asia and Singapore, and it has a historical collection dating back to the 19th century. It’s a high-tech, family-friendly museum with lots of interactive elements. Say hi to Prince, Apollonia and Twinky, the three giant diplodocid sauropod skeletons right in its centre.

Next door, the NUS Museum is a cultural delight, with a collection encompassing more than 8000 artworks and artefacts ranging from ancient Chinese ceramics and classical Indian sculptures to contemporary Southeast Asian art pieces. It also has a gallery dedicated to the works of celebrated Singaporean sculptor Ng Eng Teng.

Tastes Like Singapore

Visit a homegrown gin distillery

The iconic Singapore sling is a gin-based cocktail, so if you’re curious about what a made-in-Singapore gin tastes like, check out the Brass Lion Distillery, one of the island’s gin pioneers. Its signature Singapore Dry Gin is an amalgamation of 22 locally sourced botanicals, including Asian flavours such as lemongrass, torch ginger flower and galangal. Head to its premises at Alexandra Tce for a guided tour and tasting.

BEST PLACES FOR KIDS

Science Centre Singapore

Interactive exhibitions and demonstrations bring science concepts to life in a fun way.

Jurong Lake Gardens

Sprawling park with wet and dry playgrounds, landscaped gardens and boardwalks for rambling.

Jurong East Swimming Complex

Awesomely cheap public swimming pool complex with fun slides, a wave pool and a lazy river.

Kranji Countryside

Well-known cluster of farms open to visitors. A shuttle connects travellers arriving at Kranji MRT station to some of the farms and sightseeing spots.

Labrador Nature Reserve

Explore rocky sea cliffs and the artillery remains of Fort Pasir Panjang, which once defended nearby Keppel Harbour.

MICROBREW WITH A VIEW

The drinks scene in Singapore is really brewing, from Brass Lion’s gin to Level 33, the world’s highest urban microbrewery. Down a pint while admiring the fabulous view of Marina Bay.

EATING IN WEST & SOUTHWEST SINGAPORE: OUR PICKS

Keng Eng Kee (KEK) Seafood $$ With multiple Michelin Plate accolades and a Netflix feature, this restaurant serves Chinese zi char dishes in a casual setting.

Naked Finn $$$ Natural flavours with minimal seasoning shine through at this contemporary seafood restaurant amid the art galleries in Gillman Barracks.

Ce Soir $$$ Flowers and fine dining come together at this French restaurant housed in a charming black-and-white colonial bungalow along Portsdown Rd.

Tamarind Hill $$$ In a colonial bungalow in Labrador Park, this swanky restaurant sets an elegant scene for exceptional Thai.

WALKING THE SOUTHERN RIDGES

Spend a day walking this scenic 10km route, made up of a series of parks and hills that will have you trekking through the jungle without ever really leaving the city. Start at 1 Kent Ridge Park, where an elevated canopy walk offers a bird’s-eye view and links to 2 Reflections at Bukit Chandu, a small WWII museum in a restored colonial house.

Continue to 3 HortPark, with themed floral gardens, playgrounds and the prototype glasshouses that led to the cooled conservatories at Gardens by the Bay. Detour south past the 4 Gillman Barracks, a former military cluster that now houses contemporary art galleries. Just after Labrador Park MRT station is the 5 Berlayer Creek Boardwalk, which winds through the mangrove forests towards the coast. This forested area is the 6 Labrador Nature Reserve, home to Singapore’s only protected rock-shore coastline, with preserved navigational markers and wartime relics. Double back to HortPark and cross the 7 Alexandra Arch. Past the bridge is a canopy-level 8 Forest Walk for bird-watchers that connects to 9 Telok Blangah Hill Park, known for its picturesque Terrace Garden. Grab a bite at restored colonial bungalow the 10 Alkaff Mansion or keep going to admire the towering trees at the Forest of Giants.

It’s a short walk across Henderson Rd to the undulating sculptural wonder of the 36m 11 Henderson Waves, the highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore. On the other side of the bridge is 12 Mt Faber Park, one of Singapore’s oldest parks, with panoramic views of the southern coastline from 13 Mt Faber. From here, you can go downhill via the 14 Marang Trail to unwind at 15 Vivo-City shopping centre.

Sentosa

SINGAPORE’S ISLAND OF FUN

When you’re queuing for a ride at Universal Studios or threading your way through the crowds milling around Imbiah Lookout, it’s hard to imagine that the premier resort island of Sentosa was once quiet, tree-filled Pulau Blakang Mati, home to an assortment of small fishing villages and boat-dwelling sea nomads.

Initially a defence outpost in 1878 guarding Singapore’s trade route, it ironically faced infiltration from the north during WWII because of its southward-facing artillery. In the 1970s and the early days of Singapore’s independence, the island was renamed Sentosa and transformed into a resort with a rotating slew of attractions packed into its compact 500 hectares, though the place only really started to shine after Resorts World Sentosa came along in 2010.

Despite its origins, today’s Sentosa boasts artificial attractions, manicured outdoor spaces and pristine beaches. It stands as Singapore’s playground for escapism, blending entertainment, luxury residences and tropical allure in a compact haven.

SIGHTS

1  Quayside Isle

2  Tanjong Beach

SLEEPING

3  W Singapore – Sentosa Cove

EATING

See 1  Greenwood Fish Market

See 3  Kitchen Table W Hotel

4  Panamericana

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

5  FOC Sentosa

6  Tanjong Beach Club

GETTING AROUND

The most fun way to reach Sentosa is via cable car from Mt Faber or the HarbourFront Centre.

From VivoCity, the Sentosa Express monorail glides to three different stations: Waterfront, Imbiah and Beach, or you can walk across the Sentosa Boardwalk.

Once on the island, a separate cable car line stops at Imbiah Lookout, Merlion and Siloso Point. The ‘beach tram’ (an electric bus) shuttles the length of all three beaches. Two bus routes (A and B) link the main attractions. Both routes depart from the bus stop east of Beach monorail station.

Sentosa’s Star Attraction

Whole-day family fun

Universal Studios is the top draw at Resorts World. Shops, shows, restaurants, rides and roller coasters are all neatly packaged into fantasy-world themes based on blockbuster Hollywood films. Top attractions include Transformers: The Ride, a next-generation thrill ride deploying 3D animation, and Battlestar Galactica: Human vs Cylon, the world’s tallest duelling roller coasters. Opening times vary across the year, so check the website (rwsentosa.com) before you go.

Adrenaline-Pumping Activities

Thrills and spills

If Universal Studios’ roller coasters and rides aren’t exciting enough, Sentosa has plenty of other ways to satisfy adrenaline junkies. Mega Adventure has a climbing course and trampolines, but the highlight is MegaZip, the 450m-long zip line over the treetops and beach. At Skyline Luge, take the Skyride chairlift to the top of Mt Imbiah and then hurtle down four winding slope tracks on a luge.

You can also freefall in one of the world’s largest indoor wind tunnels (about six storeys high) at iFly. At Skypark Sentosa by AJ Hackett, challenge yourself with a 50m-high bungee jump or ride the giant swing right on Siloso Beach.

Adventure Cove Waterpark has several twisting, spiralling water slides for thrill-seekers. The Pipeline Plunge is particularly exhilarating as you slide in the dark. Little ones can enjoy the kid-friendly Big Bucket Treehouse.

Racing enthusiasts will go nuts for Asia’s first indoor gamified electric go-kart arena HyperDrive, where real-life racing and virtual gaming come together around a three-level indoor racetrack.

TOP TIP

Sentosa can get oppressively busy at weekends and on public holidays. Queues are generally shorter earlier in the week, and you can save time by purchasing tickets online.

THE ISLAND BEHIND DEATH

Sentosa means ‘tranquillity’ in Malay, but the island’s former name was far less enticing: it was once called Pulau Blakang Mati (The Island Behind Death); one theory says it stems from bloodthirsty acts of piracy, while another story goes that the island was used as a burial ground. A nationwide contest was held to find a suitable name to support the island’s tourism aspirations, and in 1969, Pulau Blakang Mati’s name was officially changed to Sentosa.

Beachy Keen

Sun, sand and sea on Sentosa

Each of Sentosa’s three beaches has its own personality and attracts a different type of crowd. Tanjong Beach is generally more tranquil as it’s a bit further removed from the action, though you’ll find that the daybeds and loungers by the beachfront pool at the swanky Tanjong Beach Club always seem packed.

More family-friendly Palawan Beach is where you’ll find the inflatable obstacle course HydroDash, great fun for those who like a little competition and a lot of falling into the sea. For something more relaxing, hang out at the FOC Sentosa beach club.

Sentosa’s marquee show Wings of Time, along with the Sentosa Musical Fountain and the Sentosa Skyjet, can be found at the Central Beach Bazaar between Palawan Beach and Siloso Beach.

You can hire a kayak or stand-up paddleboard from Ola Beach Club or grab your friends and hop on a doughnut or banana boat for more wild and watery fun. Siloso Beach has the most beach clubs for those looking to rent a sunbed or take a dip in a pool. Rumours Beach Club with its three pools is a popular place to chill for the afternoon.

Most beach clubs and bars require a minimum spend from customers to use their facilities, especially during peak periods. If you’re on a budget, there’s plenty of sand to lay your towel, or you can find a sheltered spot in the Sapphire and Emerald Pavilions on Siloso Beach.

EATING IN SENTOSA: RESTAURANTS WORTH THE TRIP

Ocean Restaurant $$$ Feast on modern European seafood surrounded by the S.E.A. Aquarium tanks.

Greenwood Fish Market $$$ Seriously fresh seafood with stunning views of the yachts dotting Sentosa Cove ONEº15 Marina.

Table65 $$$ Watch the chefs prepare your courses at the open kitchen of this Michelin-starred restaurant at Resorts World.

Kitchen Table W Hotel $$$ The ultimate party brunch every Sunday noon to 3pm. Bottomless drinks, live music and pool access until 7pm.

SENTOSA’S BEST FREE ACTIVITIES

Sentosa’s Beaches

Pack a picnic and spend a day lounging on the white sand (imported from Malaysia) of Sentosa’s three beaches.

Fort Siloso

Walk through history at Singapore’s last preserved coastal fort and take in the view at the connected 11-storey Siloso Skywalk.

Magical Shores

An interactive light-and-sound projection brings the sands of Siloso Beach to life every evening.

Sentosa Nature Discovery

An immersive, hands-on experience that outlines the diverse flora and fauna found on the island.

Quayside Isle

Upscale waterfront dining and entertainment hangout in luxurious Sentosa Cove. It costs nothing to gawk at the million-dollar yachts.

Walk Through Sentosa’s History

Glimpse the island’s past

Fort Siloso, on the western tip of Sentosa, is Singapore’s last well-preserved coastal fort. Whimsical art with snippets of local culture decorates the path leading to the bunkers, and the old barracks and tunnels have been transformed into galleries that recreate moments from Singapore’s history under British rule with dioramas and audio clips. End your walk with a panoramic view from the 11-storey-high Siloso Skywalk, which connects the fort to Siloso Point.

From here, take the Imbiah Nature Trail to Imbiah Lookout and see the remains of the Imbiah Battery along with sections of track from the monorail that used to go around the island.

Many of the colonial buildings that were once military barracks and quarters have been repurposed. Look for the iconic black-and-white buildings that now house Madame Tussauds, the Barracks Hotel, parts of Capella resort, the Village Hotel Sentosa and the Oasia Resort.

DRINKING ON SENTOSA: BEST SUNSET SPOTS

Tanjong Beach Club As coffees give way to cocktails, these beach daybeds are some of the best on the island.

Coastes Relaxed seaside vibes with frozen margaritas. Meals such as pizzas and fish and chips make the perfect accompaniment.

Tipsy Unicorn Beach Club Like a set from the Barbie movie, this beach club is bright, loud and heaps of fun.

Panamericana The outdoor tables at this American bar and grill are perfect for sipping cocktails while taking in sweeping views.

HIGHLIGHTS

1  Fort Siloso

2  Mega Adventure

3  Universal Studios

SIGHTS

4  Madame Tussauds

5  Palawan Beach

6  Sentosa Musical Fountain

7  Sentosa Nature Discovery

8  Sentosa Skyjet

9  Siloso Beach

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

10  Adventure Cove Waterpark

11  Coastal Trail

12  Gogreen Eco Adventure @ Sentosa

13  HydroDash

14  HyperDrive

15  iFly

16  Imbiah Nature Trail

17  Skyline Luge

18  Skypark Sentosa by AJ Hackett

SLEEPING

19  Barracks Hotel

20  Capella

21  Equarius Hotel Ocean Suites

22  Oasia Resort

23  Siloso Beach Resort

24  Village Hotel Sentosa

EATING

25  7-Eleven

26  Good Old Days Food Court

27  International Food Street

28  Malaysian Food Street

29  Ocean Restaurant

30  Table65

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

31  Coastes

32  Ola Beach Club

33  Rumours Beach Club

34  Tipsy Unicorn Beach Club

ENTERTAINMENT

35  Magical Shores

36  Wings of Time

EATING ON SENTOSA: CHEAPER EATS

Malaysian Food Street $ This indoor hawker centre beside Universal Studios dishes up affordable street food favourites.

Good Old Days Food Court $ Near Beach Station, this food court offers local and Asian delights and even a buffet option.

International Food Street $ A fun beachside enclave of food-truck-style finger food at the Central Beach Bazaar.

7-Eleven $ Outlets are scattered across the island, perfect for snacks, drinks and cheap meals on the go.

Siloso Beach | Sanga Park/shutterstock ©

COST TO ENTER SENTOSA

Sentosa’s admission fee depends on how you enter the island. Walking or cycling across the Sentosa Boardwalk bridge from the Harbourfront is completely free. Taking public bus 123 also only requires the standard distance-based bus fare without any additional island admission fee.

The Sentosa Express monorail from VivoCity to Resorts World Sentosa, Mt Imbiah and the Beach Station costs S$4 per person. If you’re in a small group, consider taking a car or taxi, as this costs S$2 to S$6 per vehicle depending on the time of day.

The most scenic way to reach Sentosa is via cable car from Mt Faber or the Harbourfront Centre. Round-trip tickets cost up to S$35 per person.

Go Wild

Sentosa’s green side

For all of its landscaped nature, Sentosa does have some nice little nature trails for a serene walk. The forested Imbiah Nature Trail offers wildlife spotting and has some mini waterfalls and even a few ‘dragon bones’ to excite the little ones.

The Coastal Trail near Fort Siloso has an awesome view of Keppel Harbour. You can hire a bicycle from Gogreen Eco Adventure @ Sentosa and cycle the 3km beachside route from Siloso Beach to Tanjong Beach.

Sentosa organises guided nature tours (sentosa.com.sg/en/things-to-do/events) that give you access to protected areas, such as Siloso Headland and Fort Serapong.

SURRENDERING THE ISLAND

See the actual location where the British surrendered to the Japanese during WWII at the Former Ford Factory along Upper Bukit Timah Rd. The site is now a museum and memorial of Singapore’s time as Syonan-to.

Places We Love to Stay

$ Cheap $$ Moderate $$$ Pricey

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

KINN Capsule Hotel $ Minimalistic capsule hotel in Boat Quay that’s so sparkling clean that even Marie Kondo would approve.

Quarters Hostel $ In the heart of Boat Quay, Quarters Hostel welcomes guests into a cool cafe-esque reception-dining area, perfect for meeting other travellers.

Park Regis $$ Affable place in Clarke Quay with small, light-filled rooms and a rooftop pool with semi-submerged sunloungers.

Studio M Hotel $$ Modern and stylish boutique loft hotel in the heart of Robertson Quay complete with a 21m lap pool.

Raffles Singapore $$$ Singapore’s most famous slumber pad, Raffles is a destination in its own right. If you’ve got the cash, it’s worth the splash.

Capitol Kempinski Hotel $$$ Riding the restored heritage shophouse wave, this hotel is an art deco gem in the neoclassical-style Capitol Building.

Fullerton Bay Hotel $$$ Boasting views directly across Marina Bay, this 100-room hotel is a more intimate alternative to its older sibling, the Fullerton Hotel.

Warehouse $$$ This industrial-chic hotel was restored from an 1895 godown (warehouse) in Robertson Quay.

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

Wink @ Upper Cross Street $ The Upper Cross St outlet of this capsule hostel is a crowd favourite thanks to the numerous room types. A second, smaller outlet is around the corner in Mosque St.

Beary Best! Hostel Chinatown $ Budget-friendly hostel with bright bear-decorated social spaces, friendly staff and a prime location for exploration.

Bohemian $ In the thick of the action, this backpackers hostel is super social and for people who like to have fun. Good, clean and cheap.

KēSa House $$ Contemporary boutique hotel housed in a line of stunning 1920s heritage shophouses within foodie enclave Keong Siak.

Parkroyal on Pickering $$$ A striking architectural statement, this hotel laced with hanging gardens is peppered with colourful birdcage-esque seating and calming waterfalls.

The Clan $$$ With touches of Chinatown history and a modern, calming design, this hotel offers guests curated experiences and impeccable service.

Mondrian Duxton $$$ A touch of LA cool has hit Singapore shores, melding art, food and a stunning rooftop pool.

Little India & Kampong Glam

Dream Chaser Boutique Capsule Hotel $ Boutique capsule hotel in Kampong Glam offering jewel-coloured shared pods and private rooms.

Dream Lodge $ Spick and span, with comfy beds in a pod formation and helpful staff.

Wanderlust $$ Converted 1920s schoolhouse in Little India with sharp, modern rooms and lofts, most with kitchens.

One Farrer $$ Three hotels within one property deliver modern accommodations to suit all travel requirements.

Andaz Singapore $$$ Located in a futuristic twin-towered complex with a rooftop bar and high-level suites overlooking the bay.

Vagabond Club $$$ With touches of Parisian charm, this inspired hotel is swathed in red velvet and art.

Orchard Road

Lloyd’s Inn $$ Minimalist 34-room haven steps from Orchard Rd, with a roof terrace, garden deck and cooling dipping pool.

JEN Singapore Orchardgateway $$ Smack bang on Orchard Rd, this trendy hotel offers weary shoppers a funky place to rest their heads – and feet.

Voco Orchard $$ Be greeted by Mavis (the driveway statue of a bluebird) before heading into this pleasing slumber pad with large picture windows and a rooftop pool.

Goodwood Park Hotel $$$ Hilltop heritage hotel with colonial architecture, luxury amenities and impeccable service.

Pan Pacific Orchard $$$ Opened in 2023, this Jenga-esque hotel adds stylish jungle vibes to this famous shopping strip.

St Regis $$$ One of the swankiest hotels on one of the swankiest streets, with huge rooms that mean there’s plenty of space to drop all your shopping.

Eastern Singapore

Betel Box $ Affordable hostel in the middle of Joo Chiat. Be sure to book one of its neighbourhood tours.

Hotel Indigo $$ Peranakan-inspired hotel bursting with nostalgic memorabilia and an awesome rooftop infinity pool.

Coliwoo Hotel Gay World $$ Co-living hotel (self-contained rooms with communal spaces) that’s the perfect gateway to Geylang.

Bus Collective $$ Taking repurposing to a whole new level, rooms at this hotel are old buses – it’s a one-of-a-kind stay.

Northern & Central Singapore

Orchid Country Club $$ Slick, modern rooms with blissful views of the golf course and the Lower Seletar Reservoir.

The Guesthouse $$ Retreat to this oasis at the Swiss Club, a short walk from the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve.

Glamping in the Wild – Singapore Zoo $$$ Sleep in luxurious domed tents by the lake and have breakfast with orangutans.

West & Southwest Singapore

Shipping Container Hotel @ Haw Par Villa $$ Cargo containers converted into modern cabins complete with kitchenettes, bathrooms and patios.

Gardenasia Farmstay Villas $$ Three uniquely themed villas in black-and-white bungalows set amid Kranji’s forests and farms.

Villa Samadhi $$$ Cosy rooms in a restored 1920s colonial bungalow within a nature reserve.

Momentus Hotel Alexandra $$$ Chic contemporary rooms on the edge of venerable residential estates Redhill and Queenstown.

Sentosa

Siloso Beach Resort $$ A sanctuary unto itself, this resort is designed with lots of ecofriendly touches. It’s a beachside hideaway with Madagascar vibes. Capella $$$ A seductive melange of colonial and contemporary architecture, with an elegant spa, restaurants, a bar and three cascading swimming pools in lush, landscaped gardens.

W Singapore – Sentosa Cove $$$ Where the cool cats head for rooms that are playful, whimsical and spacious, with a choice of mood lighting, botanical motifs and marina views.

Equarius Hotel Ocean Suites $$$ Drift off to dreamland as you watch marine life float past in these rooms with windows directly into the Open Ocean Habitat at the S.E.A. Aquarium.

Barracks Hotel $$$ Old-world charm has been updated at this luxury sleep spot inspired by the golden age of travel.

Siloso Beach, Sentosa Island | Roman Babakin/shutterstock ©

TOOLKIT

The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need to know about in Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and valuable insights to help you understand and navigate the region and get the most out of your trip.

Central Market, Kuala Lumpur | Muzairi Mustapa/shutterstock ©

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Tropical Tastes

Local Specialities

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Wildlife Wonders

Explore the Markets

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Arriving

Most travellers enter Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei through international airports such as Kuala Lumpur International Airport in Malaysia, Changi airport in Singapore, and Brunei International Airport. There are also land and sea border crossings. You can travel between Malaysia and Singapore via road, train or ferry; crossing times fluctuate based on the time of day and season.

Laborant/shutterstock ©

Passport

For entry into Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei your passport will need to be valid for at least six months from your date of entry. An onward ticket is also required.

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to 30 or 90 days (depending on nationality) in Malaysia and Singapore. Visas are required for some nationalities for Brunei entry – check before travel (mfa.gov.bn).

Arrival Cards

Travellers are required to register via digital arrival cards prior to entering Malaysia (imigresen-online.imi.gov.my/mdac/main), Singapore (eservices.ica.gov.sg/sgarrivalcard) and Brunei (imm.gov.bn).

ATMs

ATMs and money changers are available at all the major airports. Check rates beforehand as you might get better rates outside the airports.

Airport Transfers

CAREFUL OF CUSTOMS

Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei enforce strict customs regulations. Malaysia allows 1L of alcohol and 225g of tobacco. Singapore permits 2L of duty-free alcohol, with only 1L for spirits; tobacco incurs duty and non-compliance results in fines. In Brunei, tobacco must be declared and taxed, while non-Muslim travellers can have two bottles (up to 2L) of alcohol and 12 beer cans for personal use. All three countries have severe penalties, including the death penalty, for illegal drug use, import, or export. Travellers must adhere to these stringent regulations to avoid legal consequences when entering these nations.

Getting Around

Navigating the region presents varied experiences, but the overall transport system is reliable and safe. There are well-connected roads, comprehensive public transport and dependable buses, trains and taxis.

TRAVEL COSTS

EZ-Link Singapore Tourist Pass

from S$22

KL TravelPass

with single/return airport transfer RM80/125

Malaysia domestic flights

average RM197

Brunei bus fare

from B$1

Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur’s public transport system is efficient and diverse. The LRT (Light Rail Transit), MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) and Monorail connect key areas, providing quick and affordable travel. Buses cover extensive routes, offering flexibility. Taxis and ride-sharing services, Grab being the most popular, are also readily available.

Beyond Kuala Lumpur

Much of your travel in Peninsular Malaysia will be via bus, which is economical and generally comfortable. Additionally, two train lines, the west-coast line and east line (jungle train), are also a good way to travel. There are no boat services connecting Peninsular Malaysia with Malaysian Borneo. Air travel will be required for certain destinations.

HITCHING

Hitchhiking is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch will be safer in pairs and should share plans with others. Malaysia is known as a great place for hitching, though with inexpensive bus services, most travellers don’t bother. Hitchers are banned from expressways. Hitching in Brunei is a novelty, so chances of getting a lift are good, but cars aren’t likely to stop on the main highway. Hitchhiking in Singapore is illegal.

TIP

Most cities are best explored on foot. Opt for cool, breathable clothing as the weather can be hot and humid year-round.

Chimpinski/shutterstock ©

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the left.

.05

Blood alcohol limit in Singapore and Brunei is 0.08% and Malaysia 0.05%.

Urban roads in Singapore and Brunei are 50km/h; 60km/h in Malaysia.

Bandar Seri Begawan

Car rental, taxi or Dart ride-share are the easiest ways to explore BSB. Taxis are scarce so download the Dart app or get a driver’s mobile number – most hotels can provide one. Buses are cheap but tricky to navigate. Get a water taxi for destinations near the river.

Beyond Bandar Seri Begawan

Car is the best way to explore Brunei’s hinterland. Parking is plentiful and driving conditions are good. Rental starts at about B$75 a day. Most agencies will drop off and pick up the car at your hotel. Drivers can be arranged for around an extra B$100 daily.

Singapore

Singapore’s train and bus systems are known the world over for their efficiency, safety and cleanliness. For longer journeys hailed taxis are metered, or you can lock in a price beforehand via taxi apps CDG Zig or Grab, Singapore’s Uber.

Money

CURRENCY: MALAYSIAN RINGGIT (RM); SINGAPORE DOLLAR (S$); BRUNEI DOLLAR (B$)

Cindhyade/shutterstock ©

Cash or Card

Mastercard and Visa are the most widely accepted credit cards in the region. It’s advisable to keep some notes on hand, as some smaller shops and food stalls remain cash-only. This is also true when venturing outside cities – cash is king, preferably in small denominations.

ATMs & Moneychangers

Many banks are linked to international banking networks such as Cirrus, Maestro and Plus, allowing withdrawals from overseas savings or cheque accounts. If exchanging cash, you’ll usually get better rates at moneychangers than at banks – it’s quicker too.

GST & Tourist Refund Scheme

Singapore applies a 9% GST to goods and services. Tourists can claim a refund on the GST paid on purchases if they’ve spent more than S$100 at participating shops – look for the ‘Tax Free Shopping’ logo and have your passport ready. Claim your refund at eTRS kiosks at the airport or cruise terminal.

TO BARGAIN OR TIP

Tipping is not a common practice in Malaysia, Singapore or Brunei. Instead, most restaurants include a 10% service charge in the bill, and tipping is not expected at hawker centres or street stalls. When taking taxis, it’s considered polite to round up the fare or let the driver keep the change. Generally, prices are fixed, except in certain touristy markets and shops, where bargaining may be acceptable. If you choose to haggle, remember to do so in a friendly manner and not get too pushy on small differences of price.

HOW MUCH FOR...

Museum ticket

RM5-30 S$8-40 B$3-10

Day tour

RM50-200 S$60-200 B$50-150

National park entry

RM15-30 S$0 B$150 (1-day tour)

River cruise

RM50-200 S$28-45 B$40-80

How to…  Save Some Cash

If money is tight, check out the local tourism authorities for free tours and bundle attraction deals. International student and senior cards are valid at some attractions so always ask before payment. For cheap, yummy eats, head to hawker centres, local markets or food courts. Public transport is generally the most economical choice, but the ease of navigation varies based on your location.

Faizal Ramli/shutterstock ©

LOCAL TIP

The Brunei dollar is pegged to the Singapore dollar and, usefully, you can use both currencies interchangeably within each country.

Accommodation

Hostels

At beach resorts and in the main tourist cities you will find a variety of hostels ranging from the very basic to flashpacker options. It pays to do a bit of research as some places are very sparse without windows. Many places offer their guests added extras such as free wi-fi, bicycles and even tours of the area.

Luxury Digs

Asia is known for its hyper-luxurious hotels, and you’ll find plenty of plush digs in Malaysia, especially beachside, and a smattering in Brunei. However, for a truly opulent, old-world experience, Singapore’s Raffles Hotel reigns supreme. Fresh off a lavish refurbishment, the cost of which is a guarded secret, it’s the place to see and be seen for the whole of Asia.

Sky-High Pricing

Although you’ll find a range of accommodation options, at differing price points, be mindful of local school-holiday periods and public holidays as this is when prices are highest or accommodation is completely booked out. A notable one to watch out for is the Singapore Formula One Grand Prix night race in late September each year, causing hotel prices to double or even triple.

Room & Apartment Rentals

In Brunei and Malaysia’s major cities and towns it’s easy to find places to rent via the usual online sources. In Singapore, regulations on short-term rentals (those less than three months) still need clarification. Although no laws prevent guests from staying in short-term leased properties, you risk having your reservation cancelled at the last minute or being turned away by building security.

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN...

a luxury abode

from RM1500; S$600; B$500
a standard hotel

from RM400; S$200; B$200
a hostel dorm

from RM30; S$30; B$20

New Africa/shutterstock ©

Camping

Many of Malaysia’s national parks have official camping grounds which vary in terrain and environment. Camping in Brunei is not common but there are a few places where you can pitch a tent. Surprisingly, camping is allowed in Singapore, but only in designated spots. There are also several rules and regulations, which are quite difficult to fulfil if you’re a visitor.

A UNIQUE STAY

Bypass usual accommodation options and instead opt for a stay in a longhouse, a distinctive feature of indigenous Dayak life in Malaysian Borneo. Essentially a whole village under a single roof, these dwellings can be longer than two football pitches and contain dozens of family units. According to longstanding Dayak tradition, anyone who shows up at a longhouse must be welcomed and given accommodation. However, turning up unannounced may be an unwelcome imposition on the residents – in short, bad manners. To avoid these pitfalls, hire a locally savvy guide or tour company that can coordinate your visit and make introductions.

Family Travel

Travelling with kids is mostly convenient and family-friendly, with well-developed infrastructure, efficient public transport and kid-centric attractions. Malaysia’s diverse offerings cater to various interests, while Singapore’s compact size makes navigation easy. Brunei’s calm ambience and accessible attractions create a hassle-free experience.

Get Prepared

All routine vaccinations should be up to date, as many of the common childhood diseases that have been eliminated in the West are still present in parts of Southeast Asia. A travel-health clinic can advise on specific vaccines but think seriously about rabies vaccination if you’re visiting rural areas or travelling for more than a month.

Discounted Tickets

Small children enjoy discounted tickets, or free admission, to many museums and attractions. Student ID cards are valid for discounted entry at many places as well. Most public transport is also cheaper for little ones.

Amenities

Hotels and beach resorts cater to children and have cots and highchairs, but you’ll have trouble finding them in cheaper and more rural accommodation. Pushing a stroller around modern areas in cities is fine and public transport is accessible and efficient. You’ll need to bring your own car seat as these are rarely available in taxis.

Stay Healthy

Handwashing will help ward off potential illnesses. Load up on sunscreen, mosquito spray (be vigilant in malaria-risk zones) and bottled water. Warn children not to play with animals, as rabies is a risk in Malaysia.

KID-FRIENDLY PICKS

Go Wild

Get up close with nature at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre on Malaysian Borneo, at Singapore’s Mandai Wildlife Reserve and in Brunei’s mangrove forests, spotting wild proboscis monkeys.

Thrills & Spills

Theme parks and attractions abound in the region including Singapore’s jam-packed Sentosa Island and Malaysia’s Genting SkyWorlds and Legoland.

Beach Days

Malaysia has plenty of pristine beaches perfect for chilling, swimming and sandcastle building.

etorres/shutterstock ©

FEEDING HUNGRY TIKES

In larger cities and towns, baby changerooms and nursing facilities are available in specific public spaces, malls and family-friendly venues. For nursing mothers, discreet breastfeeding is advisable, using a scarf or towel for privacy due to the conservative nature of these societies. While baby formula and food are generally accessible, the brands may vary from those at home. It’s best to stock up on essentials before heading to remote destinations or islands where specific products may be less readily available. Simple options like plain or vegetable fried rice are usually reliable choices for little ones amid the diverse culinary offerings.

Health & Safe Travel

BEAT THE HEAT & THE BUGS

Southeast Asia is hot and humid year-round. If you’re not used to high temps, limit being outside in the middle of the day. Always wear a hat and sunscreen. Hydration is important: drink water regularly. Mosquitos are prevalent so always use repellent with 10–20% DEET.

Mybona/shutterstock ©

Vaccinations

Visit your doctor well in advance of your trip to Southeast Asia to determine which vaccinations you’ll need: recommended jabs include diphtheria and tetanus, hepatitis A, hepatitis B, MMR (measles, mumps and rubella), polio, typhoid and varicella (if you haven’t had chickenpox). Think seriously about a rabies vaccination if heading into rural areas.

Drugs

Illegal drugs are a big no-no in the region. Don’t even think about importing or exporting them – at best, you’ll get a long jail term; at worst, you’ll get the death penalty. Even possession of tiny amounts of classified drugs can bring down a lengthy jail sentence, large fine and even a beating with a cane.

TAP WATER

Never drink tap water unless you have checked it’s safe (many parts of Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei have modern treatment plants).

SOUTHEAST ASIAN HAZE (AIR QUALITY INDEX; AQICN.ORG)

Good (green)

0-50: Normal activities

Moderate (yellow)

51-100: Normal activities

Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups (orange)

101-150: Reduce prolonged or strenuous physical exertion

Unhealthy (red)

151-200: Avoid prolonged or strenuous outdoor physical exertion

Very Unhealthy (purple)

201-300: Minimise outdoor activities

Hazardous (dark red)

>300: Minimise outdoor activities

Animal Hazards

In the jungles and mangrove forests, hazards include leeches (annoying but harmless), snakes (some are highly venomous), macaques (prone to bag-snatching in some locales), orangutans (occasionally aggressive) and, in muddy estuaries, saltwater crocodiles (deadly, if they drag you under). There are cases of rabies in Malaysia, so animal bites should be treated seriously.

ETIQUETTE

Adhering to local societal rules will ensure smoother and safer travels. Avoid open criticism of the host government, and also open displays of public affection. Dress modestly, especially in Muslim areas, and follow the dress codes in areas of worship throughout the region. When taking photos, it is always polite to ask permission first before snapping away.

Food, Drink & Nightlife

When to Eat

Breakfast Stalls open early for market trade and breakfast is usually a quick meal grabbed on the run.

Lunch (11.30am to 2.30pm) Hawker stalls and popular establishments will be heaving.

Dinner (6pm to 11pm) Pasar malam (night markets) offer food till late.

Snacking There’s always room for a small bite between meals.

Where to Eat

Hawker stalls Street food at its finest – stand-alone or in a centre, hawker fare is a must if you really want to appreciate the region’s cuisines in all their glory.

Kopitiam Very casual open-shopfront cafe with a handful of stalls inside.

Restaurants Take your pick from local hot spots, casual cafes, celebrity-chef-created fine dining or decades-old establishments. There’s plenty to satisfy all tastes and budgets.

Pasar (markets) Consider grazing at one or more pasar. From dawn to dusk you’ll find plenty to tantalise your taste buds.

Anucha Palama/shutterstock ©

MENU DECODER

Bungkus/dabao takeaway

Makan eat

Zi char to cook and fry; influenced by home-cooked Chinese food meant for sharing

Popiah spring roll with paper-like skin

Nasi lemak rice boiled in coconut milk served with ikan bilis (dried sardines or anchovies), peanuts and curry

Ayam chicken

Sambal spicy condiment

Congee rice porridge

Bee hoon rice vermicelli noodles

Ho fun thick rice noodles

Mian hand-pulled wheat noodles

Mee yellow wheat noodles

Wonton Chinese dumpling

Murtabak Indian stuffed pancake

Roti prata South Indian flatbread

Char stir-fried

Laksa coconut-based noodle soup

Rojak vegetable and fruit salad

Kuih/kueh bite-sized snack or dessert made from rice flour or glutinous rice

How to…  Fast & Feast

In general, there’s no need to be deterred from visiting Malaysia or Brunei during Ramadan, the Muslim holy month of sunrise-to-sunset fasting. In Malaysia, Indian and Chinese eateries remain open during the day to cater to the country’s sizeable non-Muslim population and come late afternoon, Ramadan bazaars pop up all over the country. These prepared-food markets offer a chance to sample specialities from all over the country, some of which are specific to the festive season. One of the country’s biggest Ramadan markets is held in KL’s Malay enclave of Kampung Baru. Cruise the stalls and pick up provisions for an evening meal – but don’t snack in public until the cry of the muezzin tells believers it’s time to buka puasa (break the fast). In Brunei, all restaurants and cafes will only allow takeout before dusk and hotel room service will usually serve food during the daytime.

HOW MUCH FOR...

coffee (kopi)

RM2 S$1.10 B$1
hawker meal

RM4–12 S$4–7 B$1–5
beer at a bar

RM20–50 S$10–20
glass of wine

RM30–100 S$18–25
cocktail

RM50–70 S$25–35
restaurant meal

RM20–50 S$25–35 B$10–20
fine-dining dinner

RM300–1000 S$150–600 B$30–40

How to…  Hawker Like a Pro in Singapore

Hawker centres in Singapore are usually standalone, open-air (or at least open-sided) structures with a raucous vibe and rows of food stalls peddling any number of different local cuisines. At peak mealtimes they can get quite crowded, so securing a seat first is advisable. Even if someone from your group sits at a table, it’s common practice to chope (save) the number of seats you need by placing a packet of tissues there. Sharing tables with strangers is customary in these places. Keep in mind that hawker centres typically don’t provide serviettes (napkins), but you can find sellers near the entrance if you need to buy some. If there’s a table number, note it, as the stall owner uses it as a reference for food delivery. If the stall has a ‘self-service’ sign, you’ll have to carry the food to the table yourself; otherwise, the vendor will bring your order to you. Ignore wandering touts who try to sit you down and plonk menus in front of you, instead follow your nose or join the longest queue – whatever morsels lie at the end, they are almost guaranteed to be scrumptious. It’s now required by law to return your tray to a designated tray station when you’re done, although there are a few roaming cleaners who’ll take your empties.

kandl stock/shutterstock ©

Hawker Centres

Singapore’s hawker centres were established to address hygiene concerns in street-food stalls during the 1960s. In 2020, UNESCO recognised Singapore’s hawker culture as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.

WHAT & WHERE TO DRINK

Staying hydrated is crucial in hot, humid weather, and while water is essential, there are various beverages that can quench your thirst. However, not all alternatives contribute to optimal hydration.

Caffeinated drinks Half the fun of taking breakfast in a Little India in Singapore or Malaysia is watching the tea wallah toss-pour an order of teh tarik (‘pulled’ tea) from one cup to the other. Kopi (coffee) is also extremely popular, and the inky, thick brew owes its distinctive colour and flavour to the fact that its beans are roasted with butter and sugar.

Juices Drink stalls serve freshly squeezed or blended vegetable and fruit juices, sticky-sweet fresh sugar-cane juice and kelapa muda (young coconut water). Other, more unusual drinks are ee bee chui (barley boiled with water, pandanus leaf and rock sugar) and cincau (herbal grass jelly).

Beer Served from stalls to high-end bars. Choose from local brands, such as Tiger, to foreign brands and locally brewed craft beers.

Wine Typically only available at fancy restaurants and, due to hefty import taxes and duties, at a premium.

Cocktails In the larger cities you’ll find an increasing number of mixologists doing their thing, although prices aren’t cheap.

Local booze Across Malaysia, you’ll still find a handful of places serving sugar-palm-based alcohol, and in Sarawak, the sticky rice-based booze known as tuak.

Tropical Tastes

Embark on a culinary adventure in the tropical haven of Southeast Asia, where a treasure trove of diverse and delicious fruits awaits in local markets, shops and breakfast buffets. Move beyond the familiar bananas, oranges and apples and instead delve into a vibrant tapestry of exotic flavours with lesser-known fruits, making this lush corner of the world a uniquely immersive experience.

Regional Royalty

Renowned for its notorious stench and weapon-like appearance, the durian is Southeast Asia’s most infamous fruit. Hailed as the ‘King of Fruits’, its creamy, rich taste (aficionados say the flavour is like custard with a hint of almond – others are less complimentary) has earned it royal status among enthusiasts. On the other hand, the ‘Queen of Fruits,’ manggis (mangosteen), stands as a regal counterpart. Encased in a tough purple shell, which unfurls with a hard twist, the mangosteen reveals delightfully fragrant white segments with a sweet and tangy flavour. These Southeast Asian treasures, though distinct, share the crown as culinary royalty throughout the region.

Ruby Reds

Bursting with colour, the red- and pink-hued rambutans, jambu merahs (rose apples) and lychees are as tantalising to the eye as they are to the palate. The most striking among them is the hairy rambutan, whose peel inspires various comparisons not fit for polite conversation. Once opened, it unveils a sweet, translucent flesh that you delicately scrape off the seed with your teeth, offering a taste as unique as the fruit’s dramatic appearance. With a sleek skin resembling an elongated bell, the rose apple delights with its crisp texture and a refreshingly mild, floral taste – an ideal thirst-quencher for scorching tropical days. In contrast, lychees – encased in a rough dark-pink shell – when peeled, unveil a milky-white, rubbery flesh with a delicate, aromatic sweetness.

From Stars to Snakes

The oblong, yellow belimbing, also known as starfruit, earns its name from the star-shaped slices it forms when sliced crosswise. Its sweet and tangy flesh is believed by many to have blood-pressure-lowering properties. Similarly named for its appearance, buah salak, or snakeskin fruit, features a scaly skin reminiscent of a mutant strawberry. Beneath its unique exterior, the soft flesh boasts a flavour similar to unripe bananas, offering a distinctive taste experience.

CWIS/shutterstock ©

Glorious Greens

Renowned as the world’s largest fruit, nangka (jackfruit) showcases a massive green pod with Juicy Fruit chewing-gum-like waxy yellow sections. Similarly substantial, the Malaysian breadfruit cempedak, resembling the Thing from the Fantastic Four, sees its seeds and flesh often transformed into curries or fried delights. Unlike the pungent durian, durian belanda (soursop) has a brief shelf life and boasts fragrant, tart granular flesh and firm black seeds, best relished when soft. Enthusiasts indulge in buah nona (custard apple), its knobbly green skin concealing sweet, gooey flesh with granular texture and hard, black seeds.

SEASONAL SENSATIONS

Southeast Asia experiences diverse fruit seasons throughout the year. Mangoes flourish in April and May, while durians peak from December to January and June to July. Rambutans and lychees abound in June, and jackfruits thrive year-round. A trip to the markets will beautifully showcase what’s in season.

Local Specialities

Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei have similar populations, share a tropical climate and were all at one time home to important trading ports along the spice route. Together, this triad forms a hungry traveller’s dream destination – a multiethnic region boasting a wide-ranging cuisine shaped over centuries by the Muslim, European, Indonesian, Indian and Chinese traders, colonisers and labourers who have landed on its shores.

MIND YOUR MANNERS

• If eating with your hands make sure to wash them first: in Malay restaurants use the water from the ‘teapot’ on the table while holding your fingers over the tray.

• Only use your right hand for eating and always use utensils when serving from communal plates.

• When using chopsticks, avoid sticking them upright in a rice bowl, as it symbolises death in Chinese culture.

Malaysia

Malaysia proudly hails nasi lemak as its ‘national dish,’ a flavourful ensemble featuring coconut-steamed rice crowned with ikan bilis (dried sardines or anchovies), peanuts, cucumber, sambal and half a hard-boiled egg. Yet, this culinary gem merely scratches the surface of the nation’s gastronomic wonders. Penang, the epicentre of Malaysian cuisine, offers a rich tapestry of Peranakan or Nonya delight – a fusion of Chinese and Malay influences. Examples include kerabu bee hoon, rice vermicelli tossed with sambal and lime juice, and otak otak, curried fish ‘custard’ steamed in a banana leaf. The peninsula also hosts nasi kandar, rice eaten with various curries, and hawker favourites like char kway teow and laksa. In Melaka, a former Portuguese outpost, you’ll find Kristang (a blend of Portuguese and local cooking styles) dishes such as debal, a fiery Eurasian stew. Explore the east coast’s Kelantan and Terengganu for traditional Malay fare, where isolation has preserved authentic Malay specialities. Graze the region long enough, and you may develop a few cavities; local cooks excel at making all manner of kueh, Malay-style sweets, and even savoury dishes have a noticeably sweet edge.

Singapore

Singapore lays claim to several dishes, including the iconic chilli crab and lesser-known but equally tasty black-pepper crab. Other famous dishes include fried carrot cake, which, despite its name, is a savoury dish of radish-flour cake, and kari kepala ikan (fish-head curry), allegedly invented by a Singaporean-Indian cook playing to the Chinese love of fish cheeks. Hainanese chicken rice also assumes iconic status here; the broth-flavoured rice and poached chicken are a lunchtime favourite. Singaporeans also love their roti prata (the equivalent of Malaysia’s roti canai) for breakfast and have their own version of laksa (called Katong laksa for the neighbourhood that birthed it) – noodles in a prawn and coconut-milk-based, highly spiced soup.

Brunei

If Brunei had a national dish, it would be ambuyat, a glutinous mass made from the pith of the sago tree, ground to a powder and mixed with water. Served by twisting around chopsticks or long-twined forks, ambuyat is usually dipped into cacah, a sambal belacan (dried prawn paste) and tamarind-based sweet-and-tart sauce, and accompanied by boiled or smoked seafood and salads. Shrimp-and-chilli mixes are the most popular, although you can technically dip the dish in anything you’d like. If invited to a Bruneian home, you’ll probably be served bahulu with your tea. This simple dessert is made from eggs, flour and sugar.

Bored Photography/shutterstock ©

Responsible Travel

Climate change & travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calculators online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines and booking sites offer travellers the option of offsetting the impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly initiatives around the world. We continue to offset the carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising this is a mitigation more than a solution.

Stay Local

The best way of supporting local communities is to stay in locally run guesthouses, village stays or a community project where you’ll find a more authentic and grounded experience; plenty are listed throughout this guide.

Animal Encounters

Lonely Planet does not recommend interacting with wild animals in captivity or in the wild. Instead look at the beautiful creatures from a distance or via trips run by responsible operators.

Anan Kaewkhammul/shutterstock ©

Odua Images/shutterstock ©

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre aims to rehabilitate and provide a safe haven for orphaned and injured orangutans. Admire them here, along with other native creatures like elephants and sun bears.

In 2019, Malaysia’s last Sumatran rhinoceros died. The country faces a critical threat to its wildlife, primarily due to habitat loss. The top five endangered animals include the Malayan tiger, Malayan tapir, Malayan sun bear, Bornean orangutan and pygmy elephant.

SELECT A GREEN STAY

Selecting a sustainable hotel goes beyond checking towel laundering practices. Review the hotel’s website for a certified sustainability policy, preferably accredited by a reputable organisation like EarthCheck.

SHOP MINDFULLY

Bypass the garish tourist tat, which is usually manufactured overseas. Instead seek out local artisan, ecofriendly and fair-trade products. In larger cities you’ll find secondhand clothing and vintage stores.

Leave No Trace

Hikers should minimise their impact on the environment by sticking to established trails and campsites to avoid damaging fragile ecosystems. Never feed wildlife, bring a refuse bag and dispose of waste properly.

Coral Care

Practise responsible diving by refraining from touching or standing on coral reefs. Do not buy coral or shells or collect them from beaches. Use coral-friendly sunscreens to protect marine ecosystems.

Summiting Mt Kinabalu

Climbing Borneo’s Mt Kinabalu can only be done with a licensed guide. Only 165 hikers are allowed each day so book early. Opt for an eco-tour if available.

Eat Local

Indulging in regional specialities at locally owned stalls and eateries will enhance your travel experience. Reduce food miles by chowing down on locally grown and produced foods.

Sustainable Sips

Check out KL’s Bar Trigona, Rākh, Canvass and Singapore’s Native, who are all propelling their city’s eco-conscious bar culture forward with the use of locally foraged ingredients, waste reduction and a zero-plastic policy.

Animal lovers can volunteer in Malaysia with sea-turtle conservation group Juara Turtle Project (juaraturtleproject.com).

By 2026, Singapore aims to plant 9000 mangroves on Palau Ubin; they’ll store up to 30 million kg of carbon dioxide.

4

Singapore is certified as a sustainable destination based on the Global Sustainable Tourism Council’s Destination Criteria, which assess performance in four pillars: sustainable management, socio-economic sustainability, cultural sustainability and environmental sustainability.

RESOURCES
responsibletravel.com Source the most ethical travel experiences across the region.

sustainabletourism.my Travel experiences that leave a positive impact on Malaysia.

nparks.gov.sg Singapore’s National Park Board.

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei are conservative countries. Malaysia is predominantly Muslim, and it’s illegal for men of any age to have sex with other men. In addition, the Islamic sharia laws (which apply only to Muslims) forbid sodomy and cross-dressing. Homosexual acts are illegal in Brunei and punishable by death. LGBTIQ+ travellers should exercise discretion and respect local laws and customs.

A Pride Event

Singapore’s PinkDot festival is held each June to coincide with global Pride Month. It’s a celebration designed to bring LGBTIQ+ Singaporeans closer to their family and friends. Due to regulations, only Singaporean citizens and permanent residents can attend, but fringe event Pink Fest holds events for diverse audiences in the lead-up, and everyone is welcome. The use of pink comes from the colour of Singapore’s identity cards and is also a mix of red and white, the colours of the national flag.

Alexander Spatari/Getty Images ©

SAFE SLEEPING

Singapore’s tourism and business sectors are very internationally focused, so most hotels are LGBTIQ+ friendly. Several higher-end hostels offer private rooms or pods as well. In Malaysia, call ahead to confirm accommodation acceptance of your preferred sleeping arrangements. In Brunei, don’t even risk it.

Inclusive Hoods

Despite legal and societal challenges for the LGBTIQ+ community in Malaysia, many travellers discover surprising inclusivity, especially in tourist hubs such as Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Langkawi – however, still exercise caution. In Singapore, the bulk of LGBTIQ+ bars are in Chinatown – you’ll find LGBTIQ+ pioneers and stalwarts Tantric and Backstage Bar here on Neil Rd.

QUEER CONNECTIONS

Singapore’s LGBTIQ+ community use virtual space, Prout, to connect, find out about queer events and access resources. Join the team’s Telegram channel for news and events. Given the laws in Malaysia, and the lack of support from any major political party, LGBTIQ+ Malaysians maintain a very low public profile. Social media and dating apps are how many members of the community connect.

In 2022, the Singapore government repealed the controversial 377A law, inherited from British rule, that banned sex between two men. But there are still no anti-discrimination laws to protect the LGBTIQ+ community, nor any laws recognising gay relationships.

NOT SUCH GOOD VIBES

Malaysia’s anti-LGBTIQ+ stance faced global scrutiny in July 2023. Rock band The 1975’s lead singer, Matty Healy, publicly criticised Malaysia’s laws and kissed bassist Ross MacDonald on stage at the Good Vibes festival. The festival was cancelled, and the band ordered to pay RM12.3 million in damages.

Accessible Travel

Singapore is one of the most accessible cities in the world, with world-class public transport, easy-to-access attractions and accessible infrastructure. This is not the case in Malaysia or Brunei, where in many places there are no accessible transport options or footpaths, and little accessible infrastructure.

An Inclusive Experience

The National Museum of Singapore’s building and galleries are wheelchair accessible, with free wheelchairs available. It also has quiet mornings, quiet corners, a sensory room, sensory bags and visual schedules (nhb.gov.sg/nationalmuseum).

Airports

Major airports will support travellers with varying accessibility requirements. Check websites for details on services including special assistance, mobility-equipment hire, accessible amenities, transport options and navigation guides.

Accommodation

Many larger modern hotels are equipped with facilities such as accessible rooms and bathrooms, but guesthouses, hostels, older-style accommodation and those in rural areas often are not. Call ahead to discuss your requirements.

Public Transport

Singapore’s public transport system sets a commendable accessibility standard. Public buses are wheelchair accessible, and the MRT is designed for easy access and navigation. Unfortunately, similar accessibility is not consistently available in Malaysia and Brunei.

Senior Travellers

Singapore has accessible transport and seamless assistance for seniors. In Brunei and major urban centres in Malaysia, obstacles are minimal, though rural areas may be challenging due to more basic facilities.

JEWISH TRAVELLERS

Sadly, anti-Semitism, ostensibly tied to criticism of Israel, is a feature of Malaysia. The war between Israel and the Palestinian militant group Hamas has sparked tens of thousands to protest. Exercise caution.

RESOURCES

Planet Abled (planetabled.com) Travel agent catering to travellers with various disabilities.

Visit Singapore (visitsingapore.com/travel-guide-tips/getting-around/accessibility) Provides information about navigating Singapore’s modes of transport and built environment with ease.

Wheelchair Travel (wheelchairtravel.org) Blog by John Morris with a guide on navigating Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur.

OKYouGo (facebook.com/okyougo7) Provides wheelchair transport in Selangor, Malaysia.

SOLO & WOMEN TRAVELLERS

Solo and women travellers are not likely to encounter more difficulties than in any other region. Modest dressing helps ensure a hassle-free trip. Arrange tours with reputable companies rather than street guides.

Wildlife Wonders

Home to thousands of natural species (with more being discovered all the time), Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei are a dream come true for budding David Attenboroughs. The best bit is that you don’t need to venture too deep into the jungle to see the remarkable wildlife either.

Apes & Monkeys

Orangutans, Asia’s only great apes, are at the top of the list for many visitors. Research estimates that the number of orangutans left on Borneo stands at around 104,700, and experts believe they could be extinct in the wild in less than 50 years. Captive orangutans can be viewed at Sabah’s Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre in Sarawak, and Singapore Zoo.

The male proboscis monkey is an improbable-looking creature with a pendulous nose and bulbous belly; females and youngsters are more daintily built, with quaint, upturned noses. A beautiful langur (leaf monkey) is the silvered leaf monkey, whose fur is frosted with grey tips. Macaques are the stocky, aggressive monkeys that solicit snacks from tourists at temples and nature reserves. If you are carrying food, watch out for daring raids and be wary of bites – remember these are wild animals and rabies is a potential hazard.

Tailless and shy gibbons live in the trees, where they feed on fruits such as figs. Their raucous hooting – one of the most distinctive sounds of the Malaysian jungle – helps them establish territories and find mates.

Mario Plechaty Photograph/shutterstock ©

Wild Cats

Species of leopard, including the black panther and the rare, clouded leopard, are found in Malaysia. You can also find smaller species of wild cats, including the bay cat, a specialised fish-eater, the leopard cat, which is a bit larger than a domestic cat but with spotted fur, and the marbled cat, similar in markings to the leopard cat but smaller with a much longer tail.

The Malayan tiger is the smallest subspecies in the Southeast Asian region. The exact population is unknown but considered by WWF to be fewer than 150 individuals as of 2022, the vast majority of which are found in the jungles of Pahang, Perak, Terengganu and Kelantan. These tigers also once roamed the forests of Singapore but became locally extinct in 1930 when the last one was shot in Choa Chu Kang. You’ll now only find them at the Singapore Zoo and Night Safari.

zdenek_macat/shutterstock ©

TINY JUMPERS

Rediscovered in the jungles of western Sarawak in 2011, after having been thought extinct for almost 90 years, the Sambas stream toad or Bornean rainbow toad is 3cm to 5cm in length, with long limbs and a pebbly back covered with bright red, green, yellow and purple warts. Also endemic of Borneo is the Microhyla nepenthicola, a micro frog that grows to only 1cm to 1.2cm long – about the size of a pea. It was discovered inside pitcher plants along the edge of a road in Kubah National Park in Borneo.

Elephants, Rhinos & Tapirs

Fewer than 1500 pygmy elephants are estimated to live in northeastern Borneo, the largest population roaming the forests around Sungai Kinabatangan. It’s thought they’ve lived on the island for at least 18,000 years.

If you’re very lucky, you may spot wild Asian elephants in Taman Negara. The animal is endangered, with WWF reckoning the population across the region to be fewer than 52,000 in the wild.

Sadly, the Sumatran rhinoceros, which previously had been found in isolated areas of Sabah and Endau-Rompin National Park on the peninsula, was declared extinct in the wild by Malaysia in 2015. The final pair of captive rhinoceroses died in 2019. With no more than 80 Sumatran rhinos left on the planet, the species’ last hope lies in Indonesia.

Similarly under threat from habitat loss is the Malayan tapir, a long-nosed creature with black and white body hair. It can also be found living in Taman Negara.

Ylq/Shutterstock ©

Birds & Bats

Well over 1000 species of birds can be spotted in this part of the world. The most easily recognisable species in Malaysia are the various types of hornbills, of which the rhinoceros hornbill is the flashiest. Other birds that easily catch the eye include brightly coloured kingfishers, pitas and trogons as well as the spectacularly named racket-tailed drongo.

The region has more than 100 species of bat, most of which are tiny, insectivorous species that live in caves and under eaves and bark. Fruit bats (flying foxes) are only distantly related to insectivorous bats; unlike them they have well-developed eyes and do not navigate by echolocation.

Turtles

Of the world’s seven species of turtle, four are native to Malaysia. The hawksbill and the green turtle both have nesting areas within Sabah’s Turtle Islands Park. Both these species, along with the olive ridley and giant leatherback, also swim in the waters off Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast. Here there are beaches which are established turtle rookeries where you may chance upon expectant mother turtles dragging themselves above the high-tide line to bury their eggs.

How to…  Explore the Markets

The region’s lively semi-outdoor wet and dry food markets and bustling shopping markets provide a captivating experience where vibrant colours, enticing aromas and harmonious sounds create an immersive atmosphere of local culture and culinary diversity. From bustling stalls brimming with fresh produce to aromatic spices, local delicacies, handicrafts and textiles, each visit to these markets is a kaleidoscope of colours, flavours and traditions.

Pudu Market | Jon Fitton/Shutterstock ©

Check Market Days & Times

It’s always best to check what days and times markets are open as they’ll change region by region, town by town. A general rule of thumb is that wet markets will open early in the morning, sometimes before dawn, and are packed up by lunchtime. Shopping markets will start to open late morning and will either close early evening or keep pumping late into the night, especially in tourist hubs.

Local Tastes

In most markets, a dedicated section for cooked foods ensures a delectable interlude during your shopping expedition. Singapore’s wet markets seamlessly integrate with hawker centres, exemplified by the renowned Tekka Centre. This bustling locale combines a wet market and hawker centre on the ground floor, while the 1st floor houses an array of colourful sari stores. Kuala Lumpur’s largest wet market, Pudu Market, boasts an extensive selection of fruits, vegetables, fish and meats. A word of caution for the sensitive: Asian wet markets often embrace nose-to-tail butchery, displaying every part of the animal for sale, leaving no room for wastage.

Bring Cash

While many markets in the region predominantly operate on a cash-only basis, some locations are gradually introducing electronic payment options, often limited to transactions with local banks. It’s advisable to carry small notes and change.

TRADITIONAL MALAYSIAN HANDICRAFTS

Malaysia has a rich history of beautiful handicrafts, a testament to the nation’s cultural heritage and skilled artisanship. Traditional items to keep your eyes peeled for include batik, an ancient art of wax-resist dyeing to create intricate patterns on fabric, kain songket (handwoven fabric with gold threads), handcrafted silverware and pewter, hand-carved puppets and locally made wau bulan (moon kites). You can browse and buy these treasures at local markets, including in Kota Bharu, the centre of Malaysian crafts, where you can shop till you drop at the Central Market or visit the factories and workshops on the bike-rideable road from town to Pantai Cahaya Bulan.

NIGHT MARKETS

Pasar malam translates to ‘night market’ in Malay, offering a vibrant and diverse experience from late afternoon until late at night. These markets showcase a wide array of goods, including clothing, accessories, toys, electronics and household items. Moreover, they are renowned for their rich culinary offerings, featuring an abundance of local street food such as satay skewers, noodle dishes and tropical fruits. Beyond commerce, a pasar malam serves as a social hub where locals and tourists come together to shop, eat and enjoy the lively atmosphere. It’s a cultural experience that allows you to interact with the community.

Nuts & Bolts

OPENING HOURS

These may vary throughout the year, especially in rural areas.

Banks 8.30am–4.30pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am to noon Saturday

Restaurants noon to 2.30pm and 6–11pm

Hawker centres, food stalls and coffeeshops 7am–10pm

Bars and clubs 3pm–4am

Shops 9am–7pm, malls 10am–9pm

Internet Access

Most major cities offer hot spots in malls, cafes, transport terminals and hotels. Only in the jungles and very remote areas are you likely to be without internet.

Toilets

Some places have Asian squat-style toilets, though you’ll most often find Western-style ones these days. Carry tissues in case there’s no paper.

Weights & Measures

Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei use the metric system.

Smoking

Smoking laws vary so check when you land. It’s generally banned in enclosed public places and on public transport.

GOOD TO KNOW

Time zone

GMT/UTC+8

Country code

Malaysia +60; Singapore +65; Brunei +673

Emergency number

Malaysia 999; Singapore 999 (police) 995 (fire and ambulance); Brunei 993 (police), 991 (ambulance)

Electricity

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

As well as fixed secular holidays, various religious festivals (which change dates annually) are national holidays. Each country celebrates its own independence/heroes’ day and, within Malaysia, each state has its own holidays, usually associated with the sultan’s birthday or a Muslim celebration.

New Year’s Day 1 January

Chinese New Year Two days in January/February

Good Friday March/April (Singapore, Sarawak & Sabah only)

Hari Raya Puasa (Eid al-Fitr) March/April

Labour Day 1 May (Malaysia & Singapore)

Vesak Day May (Malaysia & Singapore)

Hari Raya Haji May/June

Deepavali October/November (Malaysia & Singapore)

Christmas Day 25 December

Language

The national language of Malaysia is Bahasa Malaysia or Bahasa Melayu, also known as the Malay language. Singapore officially has four official languages (English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil) but English in largely used in business and schools.

Basics

Hello. Helo.

Goodbye. Selamat tinggal/jalan. (said by person leaving/staying)

Yes. Ya.

No. Tidak.

Please. Silakan.

Thank you. Terima kasih.

Excuse me. Maaf.

Sorry. Maaf.

What’s your name? Siapa nama kamu?

My name is … Nama saya …

Do you speak English? Adakah anda berbahasa Inggeris?

I don’t understand. Saya tidak faham.

Directions

Where is … Di mana …?

What’s the address Apa alamatnya?

Could you please write it down? Tolong tuliskan alamat itu?

Can you show me (on the map)? Tolong tunjukkan (di peta)?

Signs

Buka Open

Dilarang Prohibited

Keluar Exit

Lelaki Men

Masuk Entrance

Perempuan Women

Tandas Toilets

Tutup Closed

Time

What time is it? Pukul berapa?

It’s (seven) o’clock. Pukul (tujuh).

Half past (one). Pukul (satu) setengah.

morning pagi
afternoon petang
evening malam
yesterday semalam
today hari ini
tomorrow esok.

Emergencies

Help! Tolong!

Stop! Berhenti!

I’m lost. Saya sesat.

Go away! Pergi!

There’s been an accident. Ada kemalangan.

Call the doctor! Panggil doktor!

Call the police! Panggil polis!

I’m ill. Saya sakit.

Eating & Drinking

A table for (two), please. Meja untuk (dua) orang.

What’s in that dish? Ada apa dalam masakan itu?

Bring the bill, please. Tolong bawa bil.

NUMBERS

1
satu

2
dua

3
tiga

4
empat

5
lima

6
enam

7
tujuh

8
lapan

9
sembilan

10
sepuluh

PRONUNCIATION

In Bahasa Malaysia, most letters are pronounced more or less the same as their English counterparts, except for the letter c which is always pronounced as the ‘ch’ in ‘chair’. Nearly all syllables carry equal emphasis, but a good approximation is to lightly stress the second-last syllable.

Second Language

While Bahasa Malaysia is spoken by 80% of Malaysian people, it’s very common for it to be their second language, with a Chinese or Indian languages or vernacular form of Malay learned first.

Lah!

Adding -lah to a word gives it emphasis. Put a forceful -lah on the end of any phrase to really get your point across. You can liven up the dinner table when all you savour is sedaplah! (totally delicious!), or prevent near death when you tell your taxi driver to Berhenti di sinilah! (‘Stop here!’).

Singlish

One of the most intriguing things the visitor to Singapore will notice is the patois spoken by the locals. Nominally English, it contains borrowed words from Hokkien and Malay. Unnecessary prepositions and pronouns are dropped, word order is flipped, phrases are clipped short, and stress and intonation are unconventional, to say the least. The result is known locally as Singlish. You might hear these Singlishisms:

Aiyah! – ‘Oh, dear!’

Alamak! – exclamation of disbelief, frustration or dismay, like ‘Oh my God!’

Can? – ‘Is that OK?’

Can! – ‘Yes! That’s fine.’

char bor – babe, woman
heng – luck, good fortune (from Hokkien)

kambing – foolish person, literally ‘goat’ (from Malay)

lah – added for emphasis to just about everything

Or not? – general tag for questions, as in ‘Can or not?’ (Can you or can’t you?)

shiok – good, great, delicious
steady lah – well done, excellent

Wah! – general exclamation of surprise or distress
ya ya – boastful, as in ‘He always ya ya’

WHO SPEAKS MALAY?

The form of Malay known as Bahasa Melayu is widely spoken in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei. Bahasa Indonesia, the form spoken in Indonesia, is very similar and is spoken by a further 300 million people worldwide.

THE MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & BRUNEI

STORYBOOK

Our writers delve deep into different aspects of life in the region.

A History of Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei in 15 Places

The countries now known as Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei have deeply intertwined histories.

Simon Richmond

Malaysian Popular Music

Malaysia has a long history of popular music and a taste for rock.

Marco Ferrarese

The High-Speed Railway Saga

Is a high-speed railway between Singapore and KL back on track?

Simon Richmond

Kopitiam Culture

More than just a communal space for coffee lovers, the kopitiam blends shared history and nostalgia.

Cheng Sim

Singapore’s Street Art Scene

Its fate hung by a thread until locals stood their ground with an Aztec mural.

Morgan Awyong

Cave paintings from Niah | Dan Olsen/shutterstock ©

A HISTORY OF MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & BRUNEI IN

15 PLACES

Shaped by millennia of migration, international trade, competing religions and colonial conquest, the countries now known as Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei have deeply entwined histories. Alongside the indigenous tribes, the Chinese, Arabs, Indians, Portuguese, Dutch and British have all left their mark in the region still ruled by sultans. By Simon Richmond

A LACK OF original written records means that the region’s indigenous history is often opaque, if not a blank page entirely. What does exist tends to have been handed down in the form of legends and myths rather than facts and data.

By the 2nd century BCE the region was known as far away as Europe. Ptolemy, the Greek geographer, labelled it Aurea Chersonesus (Golden Chersonese). In the 2nd-century CE Indian traders, who came in search of precious metals, tin and aromatic jungle woods, referred to the land as Savarnadvipa (Land of Gold). It was via these visitors that Hinduism and Buddhism arrived in the region, giving rise to the first recorded Hindu kingdom on the Malay peninsula, Langkasuka (from the Sanskrit for ‘resplendent land’).

By the 9th century, Islam had gained a foothold in the region via visiting Muslim traders, leading to the rise of sultanates. Colonisation by European powers kicked off in the 15th century and culminated with British dominion over the region until the mid-20th century and independence. The countries as we know them today, spanning both the Peninsula and a chunk of Borneo, date to 1963 and Malaysia’s declaration of independence.

1. Niah National Park

THE EARLIEST SETTLERS

There is archaeological evidence that modern humans first lived in this region at the end of the Ice Age (about 10,000 BCE) – long before Borneo was turned into an island by rising sea levels. In 1958, ‘Deep Skull’, the oldest remains of a Homo sapien in Southeast Asia, was discovered in one of the caves of Niah National Park. The 37,000-year-old cranium, likely that of a middle-aged woman, is on display at Kuching’s Borneo Cultures Museum. In the national park are rock paintings that date back to around 1200 years ago.

2. Melaka City

THE FIRST MALAY SULTANATE

Legend has it that the founder of the first Malay Islamic state was Parameswara, a renegade Hindu prince (more likely a pirate) from a little kingdom in southern Sumatra, who washed up around 1401 in a tiny fishing village on the southwest coast of what is now Peninsular Malaysia. Converting to Islam on his marriage, he founded a dynasty of sultans and made Melaka into a wealthy international trading port. In 1511, the Portuguese colonialist Alfonso de Albuquerque forcibly took Melaka. The sultan Mahmud Shah was forced south to Johor where his offspring established new ruling dynasties across the Malay peninsula and beyond.

3. Kampong Ayer

CITY ON THE WATER

When Antonio Pigafetta sailed into Brunei in 1521, on what remained of Ferdinand Magellan’s fleet, the city was the hub of an Islamic empire over 150 years old, with dominion over Borneo and the modern-day Philippines. Pigafetta recorded: ‘a city is built in the sea, the King’s palace and the houses of the principal persons excepted. It contains 25,000 hearths or families.’ Brunei has changed immeasurably in the 500 years since, but it remains an evocative experience to stroll the boardwalks of Kampong Ayer, the community of homes on stilts over the water that must have seemed strangely familiar to the Venetian chronicler.

4. Kota Belanda

THE DUTCH TAKE CHARGE

In the mid-17th century the Dutch began to challenge the Portuguese over trade routes and bases in Southeast Asia. Having formed an allegiance with the sultans of Johor in 1606, the Dutch East India Company was able to oust the Portuguese from Melaka in 1641. In 1670, to shore up their control of the Melaka Strait, the company built a fort on the island of Pangkor, in which they stored tin from Perak. Sacked by Malays in 1690, the fort – known as Kota Belanda to the Malays – was rebuilt in 1743 but abandoned five years later. What you see today is a reconstruction from 1973.

Kampong Ayer | Richie Chan/shutterstock ©

5. Fort Cornwallis

THE BRITISH ARRIVE

In 1771 the Sultan of Kedah agreed trading rights with the British East India Company in exchange for military assistance against Siam (present-day Thailand). Fifteen years later, Captain Francis Light, on behalf of the East India Company, took formal possession of the island of Penang, hoisting the Union Flag above Britain’s first Malay (and Southeast Asian) territory. Light’s original wooden fort in George Town was replaced in 1810 by Fort Cornwallis, a star-shaped stone bastion. As a duty-free port with an atmosphere of liberal tolerance, Penang thrived, becoming the capital of the Straits Settlements (which included Melaka and Singapore) in 1826.

6. Fort Canning

THE RAFFLES EFFECT

Singapore’s existence as one of the world’s great ports is a direct consequence of Sir Stamford Raffles’ vision of creating a British-controlled entrepôt to counter Dutch power in the region. This said, Raffles spent very little time on the island, visiting first for a handful of weeks during 1819, then for just over a year in 1822. It was on his second residence that he drew up a town plan, which remains today, including erecting government buildings around Forbidden Hill out of respect for the sacred shrine of Sultan Iskandar Shah, ancient Singapura’s last ruler. Today the hill is known as Fort Canning.

7. Fort Margherita

THE WHITE RAJAS OF SARAWAK

When Borneo was excluded from the Anglo– Dutch treaty of 1824, opportunistic British colonialist James Brooke jumped into the breach. In 1841, having helped the local viceroy quell a rebellion, Brooke was installed as Raja of Sarawak, with the fishing village of Kuching as his capital. Through brutal naval force and skilful negotiation, the ‘White Raja’ dynasty of the Brookes ruled Sarawak – Fort Margherita was built by James’ son Charles in 1879 – until 1941 and the arrival of the Japanese. Kuching’s Brooke Gallery and Ranee Museum have more about this period.

8. Kuala Kangsar

A ROYAL MALAY TOWN

Nine of Malaysia’s 13 states have hereditary sultans, including Perak (the remaining four have government-appointed governors, as do the three federal territories). Perak’s royal line is traced back to 1528 and the sultan’s palace is in Kuala Kangsar. This was the first foothold of the British on the peninsula when they installed a Resident governor here in the 1870s. It was also the birthplace of Malaysia’s rubber industry and site of the first durbar (conference of Malay sultans) in 1897. Istana Iskandariah, the Sultan’s official residence, is arguably the most attractive royal palace in Malaysia.

9. Sin Sze Si Ya Temple

KUALA LUMPUR’S FOUNDING FATHER

Malaysia’s capital has a relatively short history, having developed from a tin-mining trading post established in 1857. A key figure in the city’s genesis is Yap Ah Loy, who was just 17 when he left his village in southern China to find his fortunes in Selangor. Fifteen years later, in 1868, he had shown sufficient political nous, organisational ability and street smarts to secure the role of Kuala Lumpur’s third Kapitan Cina. By the time of his death in 1885 he owned a quarter of the city’s buildings, including the Sin Sze Si Ya Temple, KL’s oldest Taoist temple dating to 1864.

10. Indian Heritage Centre

IMMIGRANTS FROM THE SUBCONTINENT

Although official British policy was that Malaya belonged to the Malays, colonial rule radically altered the ethnic composition of the country. Chinese and Indian migrant workers were brought into the country in droves. The Chinese were encouraged to work the mines and the Indians to tap the rubber trees and build the railways. The Ceylonese were clerks in the civil service, and the Sikhs were employed in the police force. To learn more about the origins and heritage of those of Indian descent in the region, drop by the state-of-the-art Indian Heritage Centre in Singapore.

11. Sandakan Memorial Park

THE JAPANESE OCCUPATION

A few hours before the bombing of Pearl Harbor in December 1941, Japanese forces landed on the northeast coast of Malaya. Within a few months they had taken over the entire peninsula and Singapore. The poorly defended Borneo states fell even more rapidly. Of the 1793 Australian and 641 British prisoners of war incarcerated at the Japanese camp in Sandakan, Sabah, in WWII, only six Australian escapees survived. Sandakan Memorial Park has a pavilion with displays that detail the harrowing story of life in the camp and the ‘Death March’ to Ranau that was responsible for so many deaths.

12. Merdeka Square

BIRTH OF A NATION

Independence from the British empire in Malaya was led by the political party UMNO, which formed a strategic alliance with the Malayan Chinese Association and the Malayan Indian Congress. The new Alliance Party led by Tunku Abdul Rahman, the Sultan of Kedah’s son, won a landslide victory in the 1955 election. There was high symbolism when on 31 August 1957, the Union flag was lowered and the Malayan States’ flag hoisted on the 95m flagpole in the Padang. This cricket pitch, flanked by the Selangor Club, St Mary’s Anglican Cathedral and the old colonial government offices, had been the nucleus of British power in Malaya for over 70 years.

Fort Margherita | Photopankpl/shutterstock ©

13. Putrajaya

A NEW GARDEN CITY

In 1981 Mahathir Mohamad became Malaysia’s prime minister. Over two administrations separated by 15 years, he held power for a total of 24 years, making him the country’s longest-serving elected leader. Under his watch Malaysia’s economy went into overdrive in the early 1980s and mammoth building projects were undertaken, including the construction of the Kuala Lumpur International Airport and iconic Petronas Towers in KL. The boldest project was Putrajaya, Malaysia’s ‘other’ capital city. Completed at an estimated cost of US$8.1 billion, Putrajaya is a technologically advanced garden city arranged around the largest human-made freshwater wetlands in Malaysia.

14. Marina Bay

AN ISLAND TRANSFORMED

Singapore has changed beyond all recognition in the six decades since the island was ejected from the Malay Federation. Economically, the island state has flourished, fuelling the construction of the high rises of the CBD and Marina Bay, which has been transformed into a reservoir framed by statement pieces of contemporary architecture and design. At its northern end is Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay, a building clad in spiky aluminium sunshades. Also drawing the eye are the towers of Marina Bay Sands and equally futuristic Gardens by the Bay. The Singapore Botanical Gardens’ two giant glass-and-steel conservatories are the largest climate-controlled glasshouses in the world.

15. Merdeka 118

SOUTHEAST ASIA’S TALLEST SKYSCRAPER

Momentous political change has distinguished the last few years in Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur’s 679m tall Merdeka 118 was started under the administration of Najib Razak, who has since been convicted and imprisoned for corruption. It was completed during the premiership of Anwar Ibrahim, Malaysia’s PM since November 2022, whose rise to power was preceded by several terms in prison on politically motivated charges. Currently the world’s second tallest building, the complex sits beside Stadium Merdeka, where Malaysia declared formal independence from the UK in 1957; the spire that tops the tower is said to reflect the image of Tunku Abdul Rahman raising his hand during the proclamation.

MALAYSIAN POPULAR MUSIC

THE HIDDEN ART

Under a veil of religious conservatism, Malaysia hides a long history of popular music and a taste for loud, muscular rock that few know exists. By Marco Ferrarese

BEFORE BRITISH SUPERGROUP Coldplay performed in Kuala Lumpur at the end of November 2023, Malaysia was once again on the fence about letting more exponents of the morally corrupting budaya kuning (meaning ‘yellow culture’ or Anglo-American popular culture) influence local youth. In the past, American artists like the Pussycat Dolls, Gwen Stefani and Beyoncé all had to pay fines or tone down their stage acts to perform in Malaysia. In 2012, authorities barred Grammy-winning Afro-American singer Erykah Badu from performing because her tattoo of the Arabic word for ‘Allah’ caused a scandal.

In the case of Coldplay, it was again conservative Muslims from the country’s increasingly popular Malaysia Islamic Party (PAS) who staunchly opposed the performance because the band supports LGBTIQ+ rights. In the end, Coldplay’s show went ahead with the approval of Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim because the band also supports the Palestine liberation cause.

The end of 2023 was a very sensitive time for Western pop bands to play in Malaysia. After several quiet years in which both the COVID-19 pandemic and Malaysia’s unstable political situation had distracted authorities from policing the arts, it was another touring British band, The 1975, that sparked a furore in July 2023 after an ‘incident’ at Kuala Lumpur’s Good Vibes Festival. Their singer Matty Healy proceeded to smash a drone before slamming Malaysia’s LGBTIQ+ laws and government on stage, and then planting a kiss on bassist Ross MacDonald’s mouth.

What Healy called an act of support for LGBTIQ+ rights – and many local activists perceived as a pointless and uninformed ‘white saviour complex’ – caused the cancellation of the rest of the festival. Organisers demanded that the British band pay $2.6 million in damages. The event also inspired deputy communications and digital minister Teo Nie Ching to propose using a ‘kill switch’ to cut electricity at concerts in case of similar unwanted incidents.

Malaysia certainly does not have a reputation for being a very liberal country when it comes to LGBTIQ+ rights and the arts, but few are aware that before its increased Islamisation, long-haired, wild Malaysian rockers packed national stadiums to the gills with fans – thousands more than Healy’s band gathered in Kuala Lumpur.

Street rock perfomance, Kuala Lumpur | Alang Zabidi/shutterstock ©

The Birth of Groups with Vigorous Guitars

Before Malaysia gained independence on 31 August 1957, the British colonisers had already imported Western styles of popular music via radio broadcast throughout the 1940s and 1950s – including rock and roll. The turning point, however, was the first regional appearance by British instrumental rock band Cliff Richards and the Shadows, who performed in Singapore’s (at the time still a part of the newly founded Malaysia) Geylang Happy World Stadium on 14 October 1961, bewitching thousands of local youths into forming bands with similar reverberated rock-and-roll twangs and clean-cut looks.

After the show, almost every band in Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei, Sumatra (and even further north in Thailand and Cambodia) started taking up the Shadows’ trademark Western rock-and-roll sound and imitating their dress code. This regional trend developed throughout the early 1960s into its own genre, Pop Yeh Yeh, named after the refrain of the Beatles’ 1963 hit song ‘She Loves You’, and also known as Kugiran Brigade – an acronym for kumpulan gitar rancak, meaning ‘groups with vigorous guitars’.

When looking at vintage images of the Malaysian halls these bands played at the time, the first thing that comes to mind is how both the multiethnic crowds and musicians, female fans and singers in particular wore short skirts and dresses, and sported Western-style haircuts rather than today’s Islamic headscarves and loose-fitting tunics. Things got even wilder in the 1970s when the globalised tidal wave of the Flower Power Revolution hit the region at the height of the Vietnam War. Malaysian bands started playing louder and donning bell-bottoms, long hair and Afro hairstyles. But the apex of Malaysia’s popular music, and arguably its most liberal incarnation, was just about to come next.

An Axe of Hard, Muscular, Malay Rock

It’s hard to imagine when visiting predominantly Islamic Malaysia today, but from the late 1970s until the early 1990s, the country developed a uniquely ‘glocalised’ (fusing global music tropes with local language and sensitivities) music genre – rock kapak, a largely Malay phenomenon. Meaning ‘axe rock’, the term has dubious origins and possibly emerged only after the genre had already declined. Some suggest it’s a transliteration of the colloquial slang ‘kau rock kapak’ (do you want to rock or not) that most singers shouted at the crowds before commencing their shows.

Bands like Sweet Charity (originally from Singapore) and Kingdom in Rock (aka Kingdom) started adapting Western hard-rock music to Malaysian culture and idioms in the late 1970s. From 1981 to 1984, other bands like Lefthanded, the Burnmarks, D’Febians, Titanic and Split Times spread rock kapak across the nation, playing at funfairs and expo shows – not forgetting the landmark ‘Battle of the Bands’ organised in 1983 and 1984 at the Jubli Intan Hall in Johor Bahru.

Rock kapak’s visual style embodied the exact nightmare of today’s Malaysian religious conservatives: shaggy, long-haired Malay males toting Gibson Flying-V guitars and loud Fender amps wrapped in sleeveless shirts, tight vinyl trousers and basketball sneakers – a sartorial assemblage that grabbed as much from 1980s American glam-rock bands such as Mötley Crüe and Poison as it did from rising Californian thrash-metal bands like Metallica, Exodus and Nuclear Assault. Sound-wise, rock kapak was a blend of high-octane rock with slow, virtuoso guitar solos, and melodious hard-rock ballads inspired by the German band The Scorpions – possibly the most popular rock band of all time in Malaysia.

Rather than being horrified by rock kapak, the Malaysian government of the time acknowledged the wild appeal this new music style had on young Malays. As the country pursued the Cinta Buatan Malaysia (Love Malaysian Products) campaign in 1984 to boost local manufacturing and economy, they pressured the early rock kapak bands into changing their names and sounding more ‘Malaysian’. Split Times and Titanic became respectively Bumiputra Rockers and Search – the genre’s most successful group.

In 1985, Search released their first album Cinta Buatan Malaysia, titled after the campaign, and started appearing regularly on the television program Muzik-Muzik, popularising the rock kapak style with the masses and impressing a generation of rebellious working-class Malays. Search’s album Fenomena (1989) went on to sell half a million copies, becoming the first triple-platinum album sold by a Malaysian recording artist. Other important groups of this early wave are May Sofea, Desire, SYJ, Bloodshed, Rusty Blade, Junction, Handy Black, XPDC, Headwind, Blues Gang, Ekamatra and Ella & the Boys – the first rock kapak band fronted by a female Malay singer – and others that continued to pop up well into the 1990s, when things started to go off the rails for Malaysian-made rock.

Tightening the Screw

As rock kapak rose and raged across Malaysia, the events unfolding in the Middle East after the Iranian Revolution in 1979 influenced Parti Islam se-Malaysia (PAS) which, from 1982, turned into an Islamist party and initiated Malaysia’s slow yet increasing conservative turn. At the same time in 1981, Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad had started his 22-year-long first political spell. Mahathir propelled the country’s economic development forward, but he also firmly supported Asian models and values, and cracked down on many of the globalised liberties spilling in from the West – including popular music.

In 1985 The Scorpions were banned from playing in Malaysia, marking the beginning of the state’s watchful control over live music performances that continues to affect the industry today. A year later, in September 1986, the government also imposed a ban on open-air concerts after some 4000 attendees at a heavy-metal concert in Penang went wild, throwing chairs and cans on stage, cementing the government’s opinion that hard-music fans are a dangerous antisocial bunch.

The last nail to seal rock kapak’s coffin came on 22 November 1992, when then Minister of Information Mohamed Rahmat cut the hair of members of the bands Search and Wings live on national television show Selamat Pagi Malaysia. That morning, rock kapak’s beast was symbolically tamed for the masses.

MALAYSIANS, AND MALAYS IN PARTICULAR, HAVE NEVER STOPPED ROCKING

Muhammad Azham/shutterstock ©

Going Underground

Malaysians, and Malays in particular, have never stopped rocking but had to find a space underground. Throughout the 1990s, Kuala Lumpur’s Central Market near tourist hub Petaling St became the epicentre of a thriving arts community that also harboured Malaysia’s first punk-rock and heavy-metal music scenes (Southeast Asia’s first metal band, Blackfire, formed in 1982 in the unlikely location of Kangar, Perlis). Both were forced underground in 2001 and 2006 when authorities cracked down on live music venues in search of black-metal musicians who allegedly ‘worshipped the devil’, and the state of Negeri Sembilan went as far as issuing a fatwa against the genre.

But the fire of Malaysian rock, indie and alternative music has kept burning in a handful of independent venues, from Rumah Api and Findars in Kuala Lumpur to Embrace Hall Cafe in Johor Bahru, and Soundmaker, Ruas Store and the Hin Bus Depot in Penang. Don’t expect to find any rock kapak here, but in places like these, you’ll discover that the Malaysian rock scene is much less ruled by censors than Matty Healy and the Western media may think.

THE HIGH-SPEED

RAILWAY SAGA

After decades of planning and disruption, is a high-speed railway between Singapore and Kuala Lumpur back on track? By Simon Richmond

ON THE EVENING of 30 June 2011, thousands of people gathered at Singapore’s Tanjong Pagar train station to witness a historic event. After 79 years of being the locomotive gateway to and from the Malay peninsula, this majestic art-deco terminus was closing. The Sultan of Johor, no less, would be driving the last train out the station towards the Woodlands Checkpoint, just across the causeway from Malaysia’s Johor Bahru.

The land on which Tanjong Pagar stands was part of a corridor of 2.17 sq km cutting through Singapore that had been leased to the Federated Malay States Railways (FMSR) in 1918 for 999 years. This effectively meant that travellers crossed Malaysia’s land border with Singapore 26km within the island state rather than midway over the Straits of Johor. After years of negotiation, a land swap deal has now been agreed between the neighbouring countries. Malaysia’s Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM), the successor in FMSR, would trade its railway real estate for parcels of land of equivalent value elsewhere in Singapore.

On Tanjong Pagar’s opening day in 1932, Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, Governor of the Straits Settlements, in a flourish of colonial hyperbole, described the station to be ‘one of the nodal points in the whole world’s scheme of communications’. Gazing down from its handsome facade were four marble sculptures by Florentine artist Angiolo Vannetti symbolising the key sectors of the Malayan economy: agriculture, commerce, transport and industry.

Eight decades later the station was surplus to requirements in the settlement of a long-running land dispute and the pursuit of a dream of a high-speed rail (HSR) link between Singapore and Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur.

Victoria Bridge | Cik Bak/shutterstock ©

Tanjong Pagar train station | One Percent/shutterstock ©

Developing the Region’s Railways

HSR trains travelling at up to 350km/h would have seemed like science fiction to the 19th-century engineers and workers who built British colonial Malaya and Singapore’s original railways. The vast majority of those labourers and railway employees were immigrants from China and the Indian sub-continent – giving rise to the multicultural make-up of both countries today.

While a 4.8km goods transportation line was completed in Singapore in 1869, the state of Perak is considered the official birthplace of the region’s railways. Lines were built here to facilitate the transportation of locally mined tin, a valuable commodity that spurred the desire of the British to increase their colonial control over the Malay peninsula. When tin was also discovered in the jungles near the muddy confluence of rivers known as Kuala Lumpur, railways were built there, too, laying the foundations for the modern developed metropolis that today is Malaysia’s capital.

Golden Age of Steam

In 1901 the peninsula’s rapidly expanding railways were amalgamated under the newly created FMSR. This was the region’s golden age of steam railways with lines stretching over 850km from Singapore in the south to Padang Besar in the north on the border with Siam (now Thailand). In 1911, KL gained what is now known as its ‘old’ train station: the magnificent Indo-Saracenic style building which has been referred to as ‘the Taj Mahal of the train world’.

The opening of the Causeway to Johor Bahru in 1924 resulted in a stark increase in rail and road traffic between the island and Malaya, which in turn led to the construction of the station at Tanjong Pagar. For decades, exports of commodities such as rubber, pepper and tin flowed directly from peninsular Malaya through Tanjong Pagar to Singapore’s bustling harbour. In 1993 it would also become the terminus for the Eastern & Oriental Express, the sister of the celebrated Venice Simplon-Orient Express run by Belmond.

High-Speed Plans

An HSR line between Singapore and Malaysia was first suggested back in the 1990s but shelved because of costs. In 2006, Malaysia’s YTL Corporation (who built and ran the Express Rail link between KL and Kuala Lumpur International Airport) came up with a proposal for an HSR that would slash travel time between the two cities to 99 minutes compared to the seven hours taken by existing rail services. Two years later, poor financials again scuppered the project.

In 2010, Malaysian prime minister Najib Razak revived the idea, subsequently discussing it with Singaporean PM Lee Hsien Loong and coming to an agreement to move forward in February 2013. Three years later a bilateral agreement between the two governments paved the way for its implementation.

It seemed like the HSR might finally become reality when in 2017 it was revealed that the 350km route would have eight stops: Singapore’s Jurong East, Iskandar Puteri, Batu Pahat, Muar, Melaka, Seremban, Sepang-Putrajaya and Kuala Lumpur’s Bandar Malaysia. There would be an express service from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore, a domestic service from Kuala Lumpur to Iskandar Puteri and a shuttle service from Iskandar Puteri to Jurong East. Prospective designs for the new stations were rolled out.

Fast Track to Nowhere

However, a year later the project again hit the bumpers when Najib lost the 2018 election. With a priority to rescue Malaysia’s beleaguered economy, the new PM Mahathir Mohamed sought to delay the HSR, saying it was ‘not beneficial’ and that the country would make no money from it. Mahathir, who had previously served as Malaysia’s PM from 1981 to 2003, had a long history of antipathy towards Singapore.

Even so, when contracts and finances were examined, Malaysia unilaterally ending the project was found not to be a palatable option. So, in September 2018, a new bilateral agreement was struck to delay the construction of the HSR until the end of 2020 with a revised start date of 2031.

Then, as the COVID-19 pandemic upended the world in early 2020, politics in Malaysia intervened again. Mahathir was out as his coalition collapsed and Muhyiddin Yassin was in, helming a new government. There were various meetings between the two nations about the HSR in the following months, but few were surprised when the project was officially terminated on 1 January 2021, with Malaysia compensating Singapore S$102.8 million for the expenses incurred to that date.

Back on the Rails

The HSR project, however, is one that refuses to die. In the age of climate crisis and flight shaming, the appeal of a regional HSR link continues to entice both politicians and big business. The pressure on Singapore and Malaysia to get a move on increased with the launch in Indonesia in October 2023 of Southeast Asia’s first HSR between Jakarta and Bandung.

As of November 2022, Malaysia has had a new coalition government led by Anwar Ibrahim. In July 2023, the Malaysian government-owned company MyHSR called for proposals from the private sector to be submitted for the development of the HSR project. The response, according to MyHSR, was ‘overwhelming’. There’s even talk of a second phase extending the HSR line to Bangkok.

For any HSR line to be economically viable, though, it must connect through to Singapore. Across the causeway, Subramaniam Iswaran, Singapore’s then transport minister, declared his country ‘ready to study any proposal to restart the HSR project.’ Plenty of questions remain to be answered, however, before the countries can move forward, not least issues over sovereignty, the number of stations and their locations along the line.

High-speed Kuala Lumpur–Ipoh train | Muhd Ilyas Hassan/shutterstock ©

Other Rail Upgrades

In the meantime, work is advanced on the 4km Rapid Transport System (RTS), a new Light Rail Transit system between the underground Woodlands North station and Johor’s Bukit Chagar station. Connecting with Singapore’s Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) system, this cross–Johor Straits link is slated to be completed by the end of 2026. This is a crucial piece of transport infrastructure as many Malaysians choose to work in Singapore for the high wages available there, commuting from Johor where living costs are far lower. With the capacity to serve 10,000 travellers per hour in each direction at peak times, the RTS aims to ease congestion along one of the busiest border crossings in the world.

There will also be a faster train connection from KL to Johor as a much-delayed double tracking electrification project is also projected to be finished by 2025. This will enable trains to travel from the capital to Johor Bahru Sentral in 3½ hours at a speed of 225km/h.

In August 2023, it was announced that work on the country’s East Coast Rail Link (ECRL) had passed the half-way mark. This 665km line connecting Kota Bharu with Port Klang will replace the old single-track ‘jungle railway’ down Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast.

And what of Tanjong Pagar station? Gazetted in 2011 as a National Monument, this vestige of the golden age of rail travel on the Malay Peninsula is currently swathed in protective scaffolding. If all goes to plan, as of 2026 it will come back to life, both as an entrance to the new underground Cantonment Station (one of the stops on the Circle Line of Singapore’s MRT) and as the southern gateway to the Rail Corridor – the proposed 24km-long public park that would run where old train tracks used to cut through the island.

KOPITIAM CULTURE

More than just a communal space for coffee lovers, the kopitiam blends shared history and nostalgia. By Cheng Sim

WHETHER YOU’RE WANDERING the streets of Malaysia, Singapore or Brunei, these countries are woven together by many common threads – and the kopitiam is one of them. A fusion of the words, kopi (coffee in Malay) and tiam (shop in Hokkien), this traditional coffee shop is more than a place for caffeinating and quenching your thirst; it also serves as a communal space for people from all walks of life.

The kopitiam culture can be traced back to southern China in the early 19th century. When Haikou, the capital of Hainan, opened as a treaty port in 1870, it led to the migration of Hainanese people across Southeast Asia. These were among the last Chinese settlers to arrive, and the more profitable industries such as agriculture, trade and commerce had already been taken up by the Hokkien, Cantonese and Teochew settlers, so the Hainanese made a living by working tirelessly in the service industry as restaurant cooks or domestic help to affluent European and Straits Chinese families.

When the Great Depression hit between 1929 and 1932, the economic shock impacted the hotel and restaurant businesses in Southeast Asia. Some shophouses faced foreclosures while others lowered their rental rates. The resourceful Hainanese seized the opportunity by turning any spaces they could afford into food premises like kopitiam, inexpensive places for the working class to eat and gather. Today, you can still find kopitiam that have resisted the winds of political and economic change in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei.

The Art of Kopitiam Orders

Stepping into a kopitiam is an experience in itself. Imagine finding a table in a cacophony of lively chatter, waiters shouting their orders, and porcelain cups clinking in the kitchen. Once you do and a waiter approaches for your order, don’t panic.

Most kopitiam have a large menu board on the wall, detailing the prices for each food and beverage. If there isn’t, there are different variations of coffee you can try. The basics are kopi (hot coffee with condensed milk), kopi-o (hot black coffee with sugar) and kopi-si (hot coffee with evaporated milk). If you prefer iced coffee, add peng at the end, like kopi peng. If you prefer with no milk or sugar, add kosong at the end, like kopi-o kosong. If you’re a tea drinker, just swap the word kopi with teh (tea), like teh-o or teh-si.

Don’t stop there.

It’s a prerequisite to enjoy coffee with a light meal. Many kopitiam serve all-time favourites like kaya butter toast (toast with sweet coconut jam and slabs of cold butter) and soft-boiled eggs. Some kopitiam also serve egg tarts, nasi lemak (a coconut rice and curry dish) and curry puffs. Ask the waiter and they will recommend something delicious to go with your coffee.

Streetside kopitiam, George Town | EdwinPNursalim/shutterstock ©

Malaysia: Caffeinated Creation

Sipping Ipoh white coffee is an all-day affair at Kedai Kopi Sin Yoon Loong, a multi-generational kopitiam at Jln Bandar Timah in Ipoh, Perak. It was founded by Wong Poh Chew, a Hainanese chef who opened a coffee shop with his brother Wong Poh Ting in 1937. The Wong brothers did more than serve coffee and toast. Over the decades, they perfected a unique coffee-roasting technique by slowly roasting a combination of arabica, robusta and liberica beans with margarine to give a buttery flavour. The end result is Malaysia’s famed Ipoh white coffee. Long queues form on weekends for a taste of this caffeinated creation. Pair it with kaya butter toast, egg tarts and caramel custard.

TODAY, YOU CAN STILL FIND KOPITIAM THAT HAVE RESISTED THE WINDS OF POLITICAL AND ECONOMIC CHANGE IN MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE AND BRUNEI

Singapore: Sip of the Past

Shutters open at Heap Seng Leong as early as 5am. Situated at North Bridge Rd, this kopitiam is a treasured time capsule for Singaporeans. Owner Shi Pong Shu, who hailed from Fuzhou, took over the coffee shop from its previous Hainanese owners in 1974. Today, you can spot the hardworking elder making drinks using a coffee ‘sock’ filter, a traditional brewing apparatus used to create smooth and velvety coffee. Try their signature kopi gu you, a black coffee sweetened with condensed milk and topped with a dab of butter. His son, Shi Ting Chow, is always by his side preparing toast over charcoal for a long line of customers. If you’re ordering soft-boiled eggs, season them with white pepper and soy sauce before slurping them straight from the saucer.

Brunei: Roti & Teh Tarik

Restoran Jing Chew, or Chop Jing Chew, is easy to spot at Jln Gadong. Fronted with long sea-green signage, this coffee shop was founded in 1946 by the late Han King Juan, who migrated from Hainan to Brunei. Today, his son Han Yee Kwong helms the business that is famous for its freshly baked roti (bread). Once you have scored a table, order roti kuning, a toasted yellow bun spread with butter and homemade kaya. It is so popular that 5000 roti kuning are sold every day. If it runs out, try another crowd favourite called roti kachang kahwin, which is filled with crushed peanuts and butter. Typical afternoon tea in Brunei includes a piping hot teh tarik (pulled milk tea), so don’t miss it when you’re in town.

Beyond Kopi & Toasts

Today, the kopitiam culture is on the cusp of modernisation. Kopitiam-concept chains like Ya Kun Kaya Toast in Singapore and Old Town White Coffee in Malaysia deliver what standalone coffee shops couldn’t, which is accessibility. Whether you’re catching the train or shopping at the mall, trust that there’s a kopitiam chain around the corner that serves steaming hot kopi and crunchy kaya toast.

Some might deem them an adversary to the kopitiam, but these contemporary chains generate a renewed interest in the traditional coffee culture. Younger generations can enjoy the same humble breakfasts that their grandparents once had, but in a modern setting. As this time-honoured heritage keeps up with the times, this is also a way for the kopitiam to be remembered for its historical and cultural significance. If anything is certain, it’s that the kopitiam is more than just a place for coffee and toast – it’s also a reminder of where it all began.

SINGAPORE’S STREET ART SCENE

HOW IT ALMOST NEVER CAME TO BE

Its fate hung by a thread until locals stood their ground with an Aztec mural. By Morgan Awyong

VISITORS CAN SPY street art across Singapore’s most popular neighbourhoods. If you try to uncover the origins of the trend, you might hear the words ‘Piedra Negra’. That isn’t the name of an artist but instead a humble Mexican restaurant with striking walls.

You can’t miss it when you visit Haji Ln. The northeast wall of the restaurant has a vibrant mural of traditionally drawn Aztecs framing its doorways and windows. Go around the front to the southwest wall, and a Wakanda-style line of warriors outfitted in multicoloured armour face off against one another. The effect is electric, thanks to the signature palette of Colombian-born street artist Didier ‘Jaba’ Mathieu. This piece is so beloved that it has become a landmark photo spot, but the work was nearly erased.

Local authorities thought it was too guady and requested for it to be removed, igniting a rare community rally. After public opinion won and saved the piece, its soaring global popularity helped authorities see the commercial value in promoting Singapore as a destination for street art.

A Quiet Champion

From 2008 to 2013, I worked at a holistic shop called Sanctum a few doors down from what became Piedra Negra. It couldn’t have looked more different then. The forgotten unit stood empty, covered in a chaotic display of graffiti. Piedra Negra changed that. Jaba’s lane-facing mural was completed in 2010, and an unspoken street code ensured no one else touched the wall again. While the community welcomed the piece, the authorities were less receptive.

The Urban Redevelopment Agency (URA) contacted restaurant owner Aileen Tan to address the issue, but it was not Tan’s first brush with the agency. A bit of an iconoclast herself, Tan often gave local artists such as Idris Johor (known as PFF) free reign to colour the interiors of her cafe. The result is a maximalist dream that spilled into the adjoining alley. At times, she had to remove or repaint parts of the mural to comply with previous guidelines to keep facades neutral. Tan pushed boundaries, and Piedra Negra was her most audacious move yet.

‘Shipbuilding’ by Didier ‘Jaba’ Mathieu | Jaclynn Seah/Lonely Planet ©

A Hard-Won Pivot

Singapore has long had a cautious relationship with street art. Government agencies found it difficult to determine where street art crossed into vandalism. Early crews such as ZNC, OAC, PB and RSCLS found themselves splashing out clandestine pieces along canals before a crackdown relegated them to approved walls. This didn’t make sense for the guerrilla ethos of the movement, but the alternative was heavy fines and even caning.

Piedra Negra’s gigantic mural riled the authorities because it’s located in the conservation area of Kampong Glam. The shophouse, though humble in design, was considered an important post-war build. Its staggering multicoloured display flew in the face of the prevailing guidelines drawn up by public agencies to preserve cultural assets. While small doodles seemed transitory, the attention that the mural was drawing began to concern the authorities.

Guided by archival photos, URA produced colour standards for conserved buildings in the 1980s to maintain their authenticity. As such, only pastel shades were allowed, with bright colours reserved for ornamental features. These rules were loosened in 1995 after conversations with the Singapore Institute of Architects, but murals that obscured the shophouse features were still frowned upon. The authorities wanted Tan to revert the unit back to its neutral palette.

Thankfully, the business owner persisted in her vision. With the help of community stakeholders, Tan managed to dissuade URA from its initial decision and kept the piece. Piedra Negra’s neighbour across the lane, Blanco Court Prawn Mee, likely acted as a convincing case study. The unit, though painted a deep ochre, is often left more unsightly with stains, scribbles and stickers. With this approval, Jaba completed his other mural El Lio in 2018.

More Splashes of Colour

The spectacular piece faces busy Ophir Rd and draws attention. Haji Ln, already well known for its quirky range of businesses, cemented its bohemian status with Piedra Negra’s bold display. Soon, other shop owners put colourful touches on their own units, turning the narrow lane into a rare creature of minimal regulation in Singapore.

When this explosion of street art catapulted Haji Ln into a top attraction, it demonstrated the impact and allure of street expression to local authorities. The rest of the island would soon follow suit, and street art became crucial in dismantling the staid image of the country for local public agencies.

‘A Ride through Race Course Road’ by Jaxton Su | Jaclynn Seah/Lonely Planet ©

Celebrated Across the City

Street art in Singapore is flourishing but is still subject to permission frpm the authorities. Pioneering street artists such as SLACSATU and SYCO03 have featured in national campaigns and commercial events, while M. Zaki Razak and ZERO, the founder of urban art collective RSCLS, were even awarded the National Arts Council Young Artists Award in 2013.

URA’s 2022 handbook no longer restricts murals on conservation shophouses, though certain portions of the building are still ‘subject to evaluation’ and the art needs to create a ‘balance between retaining the character of an area and promoting mural arts’.

Street art, Haji Ln | Derekteo/shutterstock ©

Where to Find Street Art in Singapore

Street art has rejuvenated interest in Singapore’s cultural neighbourhoods. ‘The artwork plays a strong part in the enjoyment of our neighbourhood. I think it’s great,’ said Tony Tan, director of Betel Box Hostel and Tours, located in the street art hot spot of Joo Chiat Rd.

The pieces are a reflection of the community and an accessible way to engage visitors and reveal aspects of history without using verbose signs. Kampong Glam is the best area to explore, particularly Muscat St, Aliwal St and Victoria St. Other top street art neighbourhoods include Chinatown’s core centre and nearby Neil Rd, Amoy St and Keong Saik Rd, as well as Little India’s Dunlop St, Chander Rd and Buffalo Rd. In Tiong Bahru and Katong, pieces exist in a more residential enclave.

While on a ‘wall crawl’, you’ll discover a more relaxed side of Singapore. It’s strange to think that this now-celebrated artistic expression almost ended before it started, if not for a Mexican restaurant.

Hkhtt hj/shutterstock ©

“Mt Kinabalu looms large, both physically, with its dramatic crown of wild granite spires, and in the psyche of Sabahans.”

I Love Drones/Shutterstock ©

“Chinatown’s heritage-listed shophouses coexist with shiny skyscrapers, creating a uniquely charming atmosphere.”

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THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

James Pham

Production Editor

Kate James

Book Designer

Norma Brewer

Cartographer

Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Coordinating Editor

Kellie Langdon

Assisting Editors

Imogen Bannister, Natalie Butler, Martin Heng, Lauren Keith, Michael MacKenzie, Kate Mathews, Jenna Myers, Maja Vatrić

Cover Researcher

Kat Marsh

Thanks to

Esther Luettgen, Gary Quinn

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

16th edition – Aug 2024

ISBN 978 1 83758 611 0

© Lonely Planet 2024 Photographs © as indicated 2024